ESPADRILLES

QUIET LUXURY’S PARED-BACK STYLE IS ON EVERYONE’S LIPS WHILE BESPOKE TAILORING REMAINS A CUT ABOVE THE REST

The Perfect Fit

A brand-new generation of sartorial dressers are breathing air into the world of tailored menswear – one of the most classic of trades. Not all menswear enthusiasts and tailors fit the stiffer archetype of sharp dressers, but many are bringing fresh ideas to redefine tailoring.

A former investment banker turned creative director and founder of Mr Slimfit, Theo Ngobeni has always loved fashion. But for this Sandtonbased tailor, his craft is both an art and a science.

“It’s not straight-forward, and the first consultation often lasts at least an hour,” says Theo. “We take [clients] through the process and teach them about our craft because most people don’t understand that it’s more than just selecting fabrics that are cut and then wearing it.”

The modus operandi to achieve the perfect fit for Mr Slimfit clients lies in their posture, and beyond simply their height, body and age. Multiple clients may have the same measurements, but it’s their different postures that determine the cut of each garment, notes Theo. “At the end of it all, the fabric has to be luxurious, which is important for the construction” he says. “My clients know I don’t like clothes that do not fit properly. For me, fit is everything. A client can be happy with how something fits, but if I’m not happy, we’re still altering it.”

As one of the best dressed in the corporate space he once played in, Theo would go straight from the store to the tailor before he would head home. What set him apart from others was having his clothing tailored to fit his height – from his T-shirts to his jeans.

THERE ARE FEW TRENDS that have dominated the fashion zeitgeist in recent years like quiet luxury has, where clean minimalism, soft textures, neutral palettes and the inconspicuous branding of heritage labels are key. While fashion trend-seekers are in pursuit of quiet luxury, the art of bespoke tailoring and made-tomeasure garments has long existed before this new culturally driven aesthetic.

Quiet luxury is a mood or prescription for living a premium lifestyle that produces an air of confidence. While large luxury houses provide the foundation elements of a quiet-luxury wardrobe like a Picotin bag from Hermès, The Row’s cashmere crew necks or Loro Piana’s linen shirting, a visit to a tailor can be the ultimate transcendental ode to the trend.

Whether it’s a garment crafted to perfectly fit its wearer or a jacket made by tailors with centuries-old heritage that lies in high-society suiting, looking impeccably dressed is not reserved for off-the-rack retail.

Theo stumbled into the world of personal styling while helping friends and colleagues choose clothing and shoes by following current trends, but it wasn’t until 2015 that he established his tailoring studio, Mr Slimfit, with attention to detail and fit as the cornerstones. “What somebody wears represents me as well. My first priority is that my client is happy. Once they’re happy, I show them my version of the piece, which they don’t always think of. So both of us need to be happy with the garment,” he explains.

But there is nuance to the suits Mr Slimfit creates. His male clients mostly want something that just looks good, whereas the female clients are less afraid to experiment with colour and texture, but are much more particular with their fit. “Men are not very creative with clothes, so I teach them and become a style coach,” says Theo. “If we make a navy suit, I’ll tell them not to only wear it with a white shirt, but also a T-shirt, a floral shirt or sneakers. I have to teach them how to get mileage from their clothes,” he adds.