THE EPITOME OF TIME

THE YOUR LUXURY TEAM GATHERED IN GENEVA FOR THE WATCHES & WONDERS EXHIBITION. THE SWISS CITY WAS A FEAST OF ALL THINGS WATCH-RELATED AND WE’VE ROUNDED UP ALL THE BIG TRENDS THAT CAUGHT OUR EYES

WHILE THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS TRADITIONALLY relied on trend forecasting to future-proof collections, luxury watch manufacturers do the exact opposite, developing collections in line with their brand DNA. And yet, trends reveal themselves anyway – perhaps the result of “multiple discovery”, the term for multiple people developing the same idea independently.

COMPACT AND CHIC: SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

Pierre Rainero, image, style and heritage director at Cartier, says there has been a global shift towards smaller watches, as if smaller is more elegant. “I don’t know if it’s a reaction to a long history of big round watches or purely a taste for small, shaped watches. Those are the comments we have been getting (at Watches and Wonders Geneva). I think for ladies to go from small to big is easy, but for men, smaller watches are quite new and more noticeable. It’s a new way of expressing your masculinity. That’s my interpretation.”

Cartier Baignoire

ABOVE, CLOCKWISE:

Vacheron Constantin Overseas; Rolex Oyster

Perpetual Day-Date 36; TAG Heuer Carrera Date

RIGHT: Tudor Royal

RIGHT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon

BELOW:

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 4997/200R-001; Bulgari Octo Roma; Hermès H08 Joel Von Allmen

CLASSIC AND SOPHISTICATED: THE SPIRIT OF ELEGANCE

The last few years have been marked by a trend of luxe sports watches being paired with formal wear, streetwear and sports attire. Christian Knoop, chief design officer at IWC Schaffhausen, says, “This affected the commercial reality for many brands and sparked the interest in tech materials and colours. I guess that at a certain point there will be a wave back towards more classic and traditional designs, maybe vintage-inspired, I don’t know –but classic-inspired will come into play again.”

Patek Philippe released several rather covetable pieces, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava in rose gold with a purple dial and strap. The domed dial’s base features a raised concentric wave design and is coated with 50 layers of translucent purple lacquer. The polished case and embossed pattern are accentuated by the bezel’s 76 round and internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds.

COLOUR PROFUSION: A MIX OF BOLD AND MUTED DIAL COLOURS

There is much more variety in the dial colours this year, with watch manufacturers producing everything from bright, vibrant shades to more subtle hues of champagne and violet on their dials and bracelets.

“I think the brands are becoming a lot more playful with their creations, and I hope to see more of this in the near future,” says Rolf Studer, Co-CEO at Oris. “A watch is a joyful object. Why be so heavy and serious? You can wear a traditional pilot watch with great inner workings but why not have fun with a bright-coloured dial or alternative motif? We saw a lot of this at Watches and Wonders, and I think we will be seeing more of it in the watchmaking world over the next couple of years.”

Tudor revealed its sports-chic Royal watch with a sunray dial available in light salmon or chocolate brown – with or without diamonds –in 28, 34, 38 or 41mm case sizes.

GEM-SET NOVELTIES: JEWELS THAT TELL TIME

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Secret Necklace is an exquisite example of a piece that illustrates the designer’s own interpretation of a watch that can be worn as jewellery. The latest Secret Necklace features a diamondset Reverso that is suspended on a necklace of diamond-set links and polished onyx beads. There are over 3 000 diamonds in this masterpiece, totalling 20 carats, which take more than 300 hours to set by the highly skilled artisans from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house Métiers Rares atelier. “Reverso is made to be hidden, so this is a natural next step for us,” says Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Renier.

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CERAMIC: REDEFINING THE TRADITIONAL LOOK OF A SPORTS WATCH

Black ceramic sports watches are becoming increasingly popular among collectors who want an understated piece in a unique material. The Zenith Defy Skyline in full ceramic was the show favourite, particularly the Defy Skyline Skeleton with subsidiary seconds at six o’clock.

Walter Volpers, the director of manufacturing at IWC Schaffhausen, says, “We introduced coloured ceramics back in the 80s, extending the colour palette with the Pantone shades for the Pilot’s watches last year. Today, many other brands are introducing ceramic to their collection because it is a powerful trend and a beautiful material. It’s a sustainable material due to its longevity, and it’s also a performance material. Ceramic is robust and doesn’t scratch, so it matches perfectly with the watch industry.”

A year after the extremely successful launch of the Square Bang Unico, Hublot presents three new editions in sapphire and ceramic, showcasing the maison’s exceptional mastery of these

ABOVE:

Breitling Top Time B01 Ford Thunderbird; Bell & Ross BR-X5 Ice Blue 41mm Steel Kenissi Movement; IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 yourluxury.africa

UNISEX WATCHES: A MATTER OF TASTE, NOT GENDER

More and more manufacturers are launching superbly designed gender-neutral timepieces, choosing not to dictate who should wear them. Interestingly, the Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2022 (see sidebar) notes that 44 percent of women prefer female-specific designs, while only 26 percent favour unisex options. According to the study, “Nearly half of brands are expanding their range of designs tailored to females and one-third are looking to offer female-friendly sizes. Brands see a bright future with female buyers.”

Commenting on the trend of reinterpreting iconic watches, Carlos Rosillo, president and co-founder of Bell & Ross, says, “Brands have to retain and revisit the elements that make their icons a success [to extend their range for avid collectors] and reach new customers. We launched the BR X5 at the end of last year, which is at the junction of the BR 03, one of our icons, and the superlative BR 05.”

SUSTAINABLE SPARKLE: LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS AND WATCHES WITH A CONSCIENCE

As consumers place more emphasis on sustainability, watch brands are finding innovative ways to integrate ethical and eco-friendly practices into their design and their production processes. Chopard recently announced its expanded use of Lucent Steel, a recycled steel alloy initially introduced in its Alpine Eagle collection in 2019. This steel has an ethical advantage and physical and aesthetic benefits, as it is tougher and shinier than conventional stainless steel. Panerai has reaffirmed its commitment to sustainability through the use of materials such as eSteel in three of its new Radiomir models. Breitling has adopted several initiatives, including a partnership with apparel brand Outerknown, in order to pioneer new ways to sustainably source and manufacture materials. The Outerknown ECONYL® straps are created using upcycled nylon waste retrieved from the oceans. In addition to this, Anthracite provides a waterproof finish to their fabric-like weave. Brands like Oris and TAG Heuer are incorporating lab-grown diamonds into gem-set watches.

VINTAGE:

OLD-SCHOOL IS STILL IN VOGUE

Grand Seiko brand manager Rob Brook notes the very many reinterpretations of historical models in recent times, and a resurgence of interest in a vintage-style mid size timepiece. “We have done quite a lot of mid-sized watches – 30mm to 40mm diameters are now more popular than they have been in previous years. Personally, I think these mid-sized cases are making a bit of a comeback and there is a lot of interest in vintage recreations. Thankfully, we have a lot of heritage on our side.” ■

RIGHT: Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

BELOW: Oris Aquis Date Diamonds; Chopard Happy Sport

Beyond Timekeeping

The authors of the Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2022 believe that longevity, innovation, spirit and passion are all the sector needs to “successfully recalibrate for the future”. Report findings were gathered from an online survey of senior executives, various interviews with industry experts and an online survey of 5 579 consumers in the home and top export markets (China, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Singapore, the UAE, UK and US).

Looking ahead:

• The secondary market is expected to grow to CHF 35 billion by 2030, making up more than half of the market. Younger consumers favour pre-owned watches due to price sensitivity and sustainability.

• Offline sales should dominate over the next five years, but e-commerce continues to grow. Respondents believe the percentage (15 percent) of watches sold online will double by 2030.

• Sustainability credentials definitely drive decision-making for Gen Z and millennials. For the others, it’s 50:50 between those who value it and those who simply buy what they like.

• There is a growing affinity for valueappreciating premium timepieces, especially in the US. However, in Asia, the money-making potential of watches through resale is clearly valued more than provenance – 23 percent of consumers buy a watch for investment or resale.

• While non-fungible tokens (NFTs) remain a mystery to 31 percent of respondents, 57 percent of brands plan to launch one in 2023 primarily as a digital twin, for certification purposes and to accessorise in the metaverse.