YourLuxury Africa - June 2024

Trevor Stuurman

A FRIC A THE ETERNAL SARTORIALIST

THE ART OF FUSION

Sapphire case. In-house UNICO chronograph movement. Limited to 250 pieces.

SQUARE BANG UNICO SAPPHIRE

Distinctive wines crafted from treasured vines.

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Newly launched stands ~ The Terraces starting from R2.8m Book your exclusive viewing sales@steyncity.co.za | steyncity.co.za

UNVEILING TIME’S ELEGANCE AT WATCHES & WONDERS 2024:

The latest launches and watchmaking excellence from this year’s exhibition

DECODING THE POWER OF SIGNATURE STYLE:

Trevor Stuurman talks about the connection between his childhood and his style today

WRITING HISTORY WITH MEISTERST Ü CK:

Montblanc’s ultimate status symbol celebrates 100 years

MY TOP PICKS

Dolce&Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme EDT Summer Vibes. Selected Woolworths, Edgars, Truworths, Foschini, Dis-Chem, ARC Stores, and online

One of my earliest contacts with the world of luxury fashion through an African lens took place in 2002. It was an incidental discovery I stumbled upon because of my love for film. To catch up on news from the 2002 Academy Awards, I had to wait a week and read about them in the weekly magazines. Naturally, the focus was on the red-carpet fashion, and that year, Will Smith (nominated for his role as Muhammad Ali) wore a British-Ghanaian designer by the name of Ozwald Boateng. I followed the name voraciously for years, and with the rise of the internet, my appetite for pop culture was more easily satisfied.

An image of models in Boateng designs walking down London’s Savile Row was most transformative for me. I didn’t know anything about the famous street until I read that the image was from the shop’s opening. Boateng closed the road to host the first-ever fashion show on the Row. “The last time the famous road was closed to tra c prior to this event was by the Beatles in the ’60s”, reads the brand’s history page on its website. He was the youngest and first Black tailor to own a store on Savile Row, and it became clear what made him Will Smith’s convention-breaking designer of choice that year –I was awestruck.

My enduring love for stories of African-born excellence occupying and leading in all spaces of culture was born in those early 2000s. I looked for connections in Hollywood, in the literary world, in music, and in fashion. Today that love continues on the pages of this magazine, and for this men’s issue themed ‘The Sartorialists’, I’m energised that the well overflows. Where Boateng was a lone beacon, creative conceivers of a contemporary Africa like Trevor Stuurman (page 34), who graces this month’s cover, continue the legacy in bold, original, and unapologetic ways. In our wheels feature (page 39), Edward Makwana talks cars and life with two influential South African men – one of whom is the impressive Tshepo Mohlala, Founder and Creative Director of Tshepo, a fashion brand “committed to the development of denim, through the promotion of Africanism and localisation”. Lovers of whisky will enjoy diving into the world of passionate connoisseur and collector Alex de Ujfalussy, who owns the NPF Tasting Rooms (page 42).

Of course, YourLuxury Africa keeps a pulse on global events, following not one, but two of our representatives travelling to Geneva for the annual Watches and Wonders, and we are happy to share a full report back on all the watches, brands and people that wowed at this year’s edition (pages 24 to 33).

When exposed to sunlight, The RADO True Square x Kunihiko Morinaga Special Edition’s dial darkens. Conversely, the dial shade evolves into grey at night, becoming transparent and revealing the Rado calibre R734 at the watch’s heart.

Marios Jewellers Canal Walk, The Watch Boutique Fourways, Watches Unlimited La Lucia

NtokozoMas

Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo sunglasses with aviator titanium frame and blue lenses are inspired by the brand’s Octo Finissimo timepieces. The eyewear is crafted in lightweight titanium to ensure lightness and comfort. Ref. 904294, Bulgari Boutique, Sandton

History was made when Savile Row was Boateng’s fashion show

EDITORIAL: EDITOR Ntokozo Maseko Ntokozo@yourluxury.africa MANAGING EDITOR Rizwana Variawa rizwana@yourluxury.africa CREATIVE DIRECTOR Kate Walters BEAUTY EDITOR Ingrid Wood ingrid@yourluxury.africa COPY EDITOR Tamlyn Cumings CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Leigh Herringer IMAGE EDITOR Coralie Elske DIGITAL EDITOR Norma Young norma@yourluxury.africa ADVERTISING & MARKETING: ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Yvonne Sha +27 (82) 903 5641 I yvonne@yourluxury.africa ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Yvette Mehl + 27 (21) 439 4907 I yvette@yourluxury.africa ACCOUNT MANAGER: NATIONAL Gina van de Wall I gina@yourluxury.africa MANAGEMENT: MANAGING DIRECTOR Yvonne Sha PUBLISHER Ingrid Wood

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jacquie Myburgh Chemaly jacquie@yourluxury.africa DISTRIBUTION & PRINT: DISTRIBUTION On the Dot, Media Support PRINTED BY CTP Printers, Cape Town for YourLuxuryPO Box 1053, Sea Point 8060, Cape Town. All rights reserved. Whereas precautions have been take n to ensure the accuracy of information, neither the editor nor YourLuxury Africa can be held liable for any inaccuracies, injury or damages that may arise. The opinions expressed in the articles may not reflect those of the publisher. All prices correct at time of going to print.

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ti-ceramitechtm case

3-day automatic

500 m water resistance

JOHANNESBURG: SANDTON CITY - PANERAI BOUTIQUE. MELROSE ARCH - ELEGANCE JEWELLERS

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Kevin Couliau is a Parisbased photographer and filmmaker renowned for his deep engagement with basketball culture and its social implications. Through his documentary work and his association with Giants of Africa –a nonprofit dedicated to empowering African youth through basketball – he explores the sport’s impact on communities worldwide. Read the full story on YourLuxury.Africa.

MEET OUR CONTRIBUTORS

DEBBIE HATHWAY

Debbie is a passionate journalist with an eye for detail and a knack for storytelling. She’s dedicated to uncovering memorable tales and sharing diverse perspectives, while championing integrity and empathy in journalism.

“A sartorialist I admire is English fashion designer Ozwald Boateng. Laurent Lecamp – Global MD of Watchmaking at Montblanc, Christian Selmoni – Style and Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin, and Alessandro Gensini – Marketing Director at Nomination Italy, are also among the sharpest dressers.“

See: p20 – p33

KOKONA “KAY KAY” RIBANE

As a co-founder of Dear Ribane (a creative collective comprising siblings Tebogo, Manthe and Kay Kay), Mungu Creative Lab (a brand for little explorers), and now the first digital fine art NFT gallery in Africa – USURPA Gallery, Kay Kay pushes boundaries, challenging the narratives surrounding art, fashion, culture and identity.

“In the realm of high fashion, brands like Fear of God, Saint Laurent, and Uniform exemplify the art of reinventing luxury through the lens of contemporary comfort and sophistication.“

See: p18; p38

Richard is a freelance writer who is based in Cape Town, but he’s constantly keeping an eye on his next departure and destination. He’s happiest when sharing Africa’s wild spaces with his family, and still has Antarctica at the top of his bucket list.

“I really love Jean Paul Gaultier and always return from my travels with a bottle of Le Male EDP. One spritz and I’m transported back to my most recent adventures abroad.“

See: p44

EDWARD MOLEKE MAKWANA

A public relations executive for more than two decades across multiple industries, Edward has extensive knowledge of original equipment manufacturing and the retail sector of the automotive industry. He’s currently a freelance contributor, offering insights into the automotive sector.

“Two brands that resonate with my sartorial style are Thomas Fortin and Bagozza. Suits, ties, and sports jackets are my passion, and Thomas’ combinations are inspiring. The exquisite texture of Bagozza suits sets them apart; I proudly own three.“

See: p39

RICHARD HOLMES

THE SARTORIAL SUMMIT

The city of Florence, Italy, cements its reputation as the epicentre of men’s fashion with the Pitti Immagine Uomo fair. The biannual event, which runs from 11 – 14 June at Fortezza da Basso, draws international editors, stylists, designers, buyers, and fashion aficionados globally, and marks the start of the spring/summer 2025 men’s selling season. Attendees can look forward to an exciting schedule of events, fashion shows, exclusive previews, and a debut exhibition on 12 June by this year’s guest designer, Marine Serre. uomo.pittimmagine.com

CULTURE DIARY

FROM HORSES TO HYBRIDS

Next month, the 2024 Goodwood Festival of Speed celebrates 130 years of motorsport. The theme, ‘Horseless to Hybrid: Revolutions in Power’, highlights the evolution from early automobiles to today’s hybrids and electric innovations. With more than 700 vehicles on show and driving performances from Aston Martin, Ferrari, and Porsche, you can also expect the iconic Hill Climb, Forest Rally Stage, and the Cartier Style and Luxe showcase. 11 – 14 July at Goodwood Estate in West Sussex, England. goodwood.com

COURT CLASSICS

This year’s Wimbledon Championships take place from 1 – 14 July at the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club (AELTC) in London. As celebrities and royalty rub shoulders, fashion stakes are high in the wake of tennisinspired film Challengers and top Italian cede Jannik Sinner’s monogrammed Gucci bag, which he carried on to Centre Court last year. Warm up with a glass of Pimms and the poignant new Amazon Prime documentary, Federer: Twelve Final Days, which airs on 20 June. wimbledon.com

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF THE

NATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL

From 20–30 June, the 2024 National Arts Festival takes place in Makhanda (formally known as Grahamstown), celebrating its 50th anniversary against the backdrop of South Africa while marking 30 years of democracy. Exploring the interconnectedness of art and justice, and human rights and democracy is the not-to-be-missed exhibition, A Luta Continua: Reflecting on 30 Years of Democracy through the Constitutional Court Art Collection

Other highlights include the 2023 Standard Bank Young Artists, which consists of Lorin Sookool (dance), Darren English (jazz), Zoë Modiga (music), Angel Ho (performance art), Kgomotso ‘MoMo’ Matsunyane (theatre) and Stephané Conradie (visual art), all with brand new works. For more information and tickets, visit nationalartsfestival.co.za.

CELEBRATING GHANA’S PAN-AFRICAN BUSINESS SCENE

Founded by Ghanaian businessman Kojo Soboh, the EMY Africa Expo 2024, taking place from 14–16 June at the Accra International Conference Centre in Ghana, showcases the vitality of the Pan-African business scene. This event spans a range of sectors from sports, travel and automobiles to arts, health, and fashion, and includes activities like the Inspiring Greatness Forum and various art exhibitions. Supported by the Ghana Investment Promotion Centre and Ghana Tourism Authority, the expo facilitates essential networking opportunities, promoting growth and collaboration for local and international businesses. emyafrica.com

OLFACTORY

KEEP YOUR SENSES GUESSING WITH THESE INTRIGUING AND NON-CONFORMIST MASCULINE SCENTS

COMPILED BY INGRID WOOD

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:

Spicy sa ron, fig essence, and sensual leather give K by Dolce&Gabbana EDP Intense a strong and charismatic edge. R2 270 for 50ml and R3 095 for 100ml. Woolworths, Truworths, Foschini, and ARC

An ambery, woody scent – with vibrant spices and hints of rum and leather – are given a subtle floral boost with tuberose and iris essence in Bulgari Man in Black EDP. R2 410 for 60ml and R3 355 for 100ml EDP. Truworths, Edgars, Woolworths, Foschini, and ARC

For a new take on a fresh scent, try Born to be Unforgettable EDP by Kilian Paris for its opening burst of lime and a sparkling cola accord. R1 970 for 50ml. skins.co.za

The flower-wood pairing in Givenchy’s Gentleman Society Extrême EDP is taken to a sexy new level with co ee absolute, clary sage, nutmeg, fresh peppermint, and toasty Indonesian patchouli essence. R2 165 for 60ml and R2 930 for 100ml. Available at leading beauty retail outlets

A reflection of Paris at night, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir EDP is a vibrant oriental amber softened by warm vanilla, tonka bean, and tobacco. R4 470 for 70ml. skins.co.za

Inspired by the “happy smell of nature after the rain”, H24 Herbes Vives by Hermès EDP is a bouquet of fresh herbs – savory, sorrel, hemp, and parsley with a minty accord. R2 005 for 50ml and R2 710 for 100ml. Truworths, Edgars, Woolworths, and ARC

SATISFACTION

1. Louis Vuitton Damier Jacquard Reversible Windbreaker, Monogram Printed Long-Sleeved Cotton Shirt, Tailored Chino Pants, Montsouris Messenger Bag, Golf Kit and V Tag 40MM Reversible Belt, all POA, louisvuitton.com

2. Thabo Kopele long-haired melton and cashmere-blend scarf, R1 585, @thabo_kopele

CLASSIC COME BACK

OVERSIZED KNITS, TIMELESS DENIM AND SPORTY SEPARATES – FASHION’S ADAPTABLE TRENDS WILL TAKE YOU FROM CASUAL STREETWEAR TO COUNTRYSIDE COOL WORDS KOKONA RIBANE

3. Limited edition Chimi One sunglasses, R7 399, lunabelleventures.com

4. Thebe Magugu Basotho Labola Men’s shirt, R9 500, thebemagugu.com

5. Burna Boy BB Trench Coat (unisex), R15 999, G-STAR RAW, g-star.com

6. Rokh x H&M oversized cable-knit jumper in beige, R2 299, hmsouthafrica.com

7. Asics GT-2160 sneakers, R2 799, selected sports retailers and asics.com/za

WATCHMAKERS ARE MOTIVATED TO CREATE THE MOST INNOVATIVE OBJECTS THAT MEASURE TIME, AND WATCHES AND WONDERS GENEVA IS THE PERFECT PLATFORM TO HIGHLIGHT THEIR VISIONARY CREATIONS

COMPILED BY DEBBIE

HATHWAY

TIME’S

NAVIGATING CURRENT

1. Owners of the new Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition PAM01405 will be invited to an experience befitting the upcoming America’s Cup, and Panerai’s partnership with the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team during the Barcelona finals. This is the first Submersible in 45mm to feature a tourbillon complication and incorporate Carbotech™, a composite material based on carbon fibre. The patented tourbillon completes a horizontal rotation every 30 seconds instead of every 60 seconds. Limited to 20 pieces. POA, panerai.com

2. The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad is a true marvel that fuses avant-garde technologies with traditional hand craftsmanship. This new 99-piece 20-patent limited-edition watch, still without dial, hands, or crown, is a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation. The handassembled movement incorporates silicon balance wheels and hairsprings, DIAMonSIL-coated escapements, a double oscillator linked by a vertical di erential, and a Grinder® automatic winding system. The rotating hour disc behind the movement is hand-finished with a diamond guilloché pattern, adding a touch of elegance to its innovative design. POA, picotandmoss.co.za

3. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar, IWC’s first “secular” perpetual calendar, highlights the exclusivity of the manufacture’s o erings. Recognising the lengths of the months, adding a leap day every four years, and considering the Gregorian calendar’s leap year exceptions, this masterpiece is designed to skip three leap years that would normally occur at the end of a century over a 400-year timespan. Its moon phase display is so accurate it will only deviate by one day in 45 million years. POA, iwc.com

4. Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 14-Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire honours the brand’s commitment to R&D and technical excellence through its movement and exterior. The MP-11 features a sculptural seven-barrel movement – coaxial and vertical to maintain a conventional height of 10.9mm – with a two-week power reserve. The barrels are not integrated into the thickness of the movement but are set in front of it at 90°. The water-blue sapphire of the case is based on a custom chemical formula and exclusive transparency index, polished to perfection. POA, murdocks.co.za, hublot.com

5. Beauregard’s inaugural men’s watch, Ulysse, embodies the seamless fusion of haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie. The reveal follows several years of research and a threeyear development phase. It is powered by Vianney Halter’s renowned automatic movement with mysterious winding. The handmade haute joaillerie dial made from 18kt rose gold and 68 flawlessly hand-polished aquamarines is crafted to resemble a stainedglass window. Limited to 10 pieces. POA, beauregard.ch to

MASTER OF MATERIALS

CAPTAIN COOK HIGH-TECH CERAMIC SKELETON

Decoding DAPPER 1.

REIMAGINING THEIR TAKE ON THE POPULAR CHAIN-AND-BRACELET COMBINATIONS AND OTHER MASCULINE PIECES, MEN’S JEWELLERY CONTINUES TO EVOLVE

COMPILED BY DEBBIE HATHWAY

Louis Vuitton’s fine jewellery collection for men which comprises 16 styles, is intended to connect buyers to the curiosity, creativity, and open-mindedness of Gaston-Louis, the grandson of the brand’s founder. Large white gold tag pendant, R191 000, small titanium tag pendant, R68 500, louisvuitton.com

Black Diamond Eternity Band in black rhodium-plated 18kt white gold features 16 round brilliant-cut black diamonds totalling 11.22 carats. $6 950, oliversmithjeweler.com

3. Bvlgari Studio’s experimentation and exchange platform extends its potential this year by teaming up with Egyptian vocalist Bayou and Jad Hobeika, Co-Creative Director at Georges Hobeika, to evolve and reinvent the narrative of its most emblematic icons. In their case, the focus is B.zero1, described as “a ring that is a mindset, a way to set free one’s truest self.” POA, picotandmoss.co.za, bulgari.com

4. The FRED Force 10 XL unisex bracelet with buckle and cord is available in white, yellow, or pink gold, with a steel, yellow, or pink gold cable. It o ers interchangeability while maintaining its original two-tone, two-material signature. From R223 000, latelierparis.co.za

5. The impenetrable scales of a pangolin are the genesis for what the House of Mavros refers to as the most handsome cu inks they’ve ever made, handmade in 18kt gold. Proceeds from The Pangolin Collection go towards the conservation of these precious, lesser-known creatures. R97 000, Shop 7, Alfred Mall, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town, za.patrickmavros.com

6. Named after the Sanskrit word for “one,” Eka is the collection that introduced Flex’it technology, changing the way gold jewellery is worn with its mesh of intertwining gold elements. FOPE Flex’it Eka bracelet with black diamond pavé. From R112 410, Charles Greig, charlesgreig.co.za

1. Les Gastons,

UNVEILING TIME’S ELEGANCE AT

&

WATCHES WONDERS

THE WATCH WORLD RECENTLY HOMED IN ON GENEVA AS ENTHUSIASTS CLAMOURED TO SEE THE LATEST LAUNCHES AND EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF WATCHMAKING EXCELLENCE WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY

PREVIOUS PAGE:

Motor racing legend Jacky Ickx wears the new Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 by Chopard WATCHES, FROM TOP: Rolex Deepsea in 18ct gold; TUDOR Black Bay 41mm; Grand Seiko Manual Winding HiBeat 36000 80 Hours SLGW003 from the Evolution 9 Collection; IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Portugieser

For a watch enthusiast who ticks the box of accredited media, retailer, or collector, an invitation to attend Watches and Wonders Geneva – the world’s most significant annual watchmaking exhibition – is the stu dreams are made of.

According to the organisers, it takes 3 500 steps to explore the entire Salon. By the end of the four days reserved for 1 500 journalists and 5 700 retailers, I’d walked 12 times that between interviews, presentations, and touch-and-feel sessions… but who’s counting?

If you’re not a watch enthusiast, you might have a vague idea of who the industry leaders are and make a beeline for them. Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Chopard, and Parmigiani are among those who present an eternally classic face to their fans. Grand Seiko’s booth is a quiet retreat, featuring natural elements that inspire watchmakers in their alpine atelier in Japan, but you must first cross the threshold to appreciate the nuances.

Wandering around the Salon, you might be drawn to the blacksmith foundry spectacle at Jaeger-LeCoultre, the

RIGHT: The IWC booth

hi-octane energy of TUDOR and TAG Heuer, or the intimate spaces of the independent watchmakers like Louis Moinet or Laurent Ferrier.

Meanwhile, A Tribute to Eternity, which played at the IWC booth every hour, was the work of Oscar-winning music composer Hans Zimmer and physicist Professor Brian Cox, an unusual collaboration inspired by the new Portugieser collection and the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – the first secularperpetual calendar engineered by the manufacture. The complication considers

TOP: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s booth

Genbi Valley in Iwate Prefecture, Japan, is home to the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, a designated National Place of Scenic Beauty and a Natural Monument since 1927. Centuries of erosion have produced strange rock shapes and waterfalls, and wilderness and flowing water provide endless inspiration for the celebrated Japanese watchmakers. Nature’s influence is evident in their sought-after creations, among them the Grand Seiko SLGH021 launched at Watches and Wonders 2024.

It’s an addition to the Evolution 9 Collection, featuring a new moulded pattern and light-green colouration that defies finite description because of its response to angles of light. Promotional images show it seemingly plucked straight out of the cool, fresh water flowing from Mt. Kurikoma.

For the first time in this collection, Ever-Brilliant Steel is used. Its brilliant white sheen, captured in the case and bracelet, contrasts with the minty shade of the dial while providing unparalleled corrosion resistance.

Even legibility is left in nature’s hands. Precision diamond cutting of each hour index results in a flawlessly flat mirror finish that enhances readability under various lighting conditions, capturing even the faintest light with brilliance. The meticulously shaped hands and indexes are more prominently shaped, aiding legibility, and the minute hand extends to the minute track.

The SLGH021 is driven by the Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours 9SA5 caliber introduced in 2020 and made by artisans at the Studio. This movement has many technical advancements, including the

GRAND SEIKO’S “ALIVE IN TIME” HASHTAG SAYS IT ALL FOR THE GLORIOUS NATURAL REFERENCES INCORPORATED IN THE HIGHLY COVETABLE WRISTWATCHES

WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY

EVO LUT ION 9

The Relentless Pursuit of Perfection

LEFT:

Dual Impulse Escapement, twin barrels, and a free-sprung balance with a distinctive overcoil. Moreover, a newly designed horizontal gear train enables a slimmer construction for extra overall comfort.

The piece is a wrist-accommodating 40mm in diameter, 11.7mm thick, with a lug-to-lug length of 47mm, and is limited to 1 000 pieces.

Two more dress watches in the Evolution 9 style were revealed at the fair in Geneva; the manual winding Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Limited Edition SLGW002 and SLGW003, this time powered by the new manually wound Caliber 9SA4.

Grand Seiko movements are manufactured in pursuit of greater stability and higher precision. This is the company’s first hand-wound Hi-Beat movement created in more than 50 years, and the third to join the latest generation of the mechanical Caliber 9S platform, which incorporates the automatic Caliber 9SA5 and the Tentagraph Caliber 9SC5 chronograph launched last year.

The new 9SA4 has the same features as the 9SA5, including beating 10 times per second while achieving a power reserve of 80 hours when fully wound. However, almost 40 percent of the base movement has been redesigned and reconstructed with careful consideration of the watch’s ritualistic winding.

Discover the bird-shaped click of the new 9SA4 caliber powering the SLGW002 and SLGW003. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal of the caseback. The watch is water resistant to 100 metres

ABOVE:

The Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours 9SA5 caliber of the SLGH021 is visible through the caseback

The Takumi (master craftsman) says this movement was engineered for enthusiasts to wind their watch. Encouraged to wind it five or six times each to make the power reserve last, those inspecting the watch at Watches and Wonders were delighted to discover the movement’s click in the shape of a wagtail – a bird special to Morioka (a city close to the Studio), and the pecking motion visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The click, holding the ratchet wheel to prevent the unwinding of the mainsprings, and the click spring have been tailored to perfect their feel and sound. The crown stops when the movement is fully powered.

The movement’s finishing is inspired by the Shizukuishi River and the dial by the patterned bark of the white birch trees that thrive near the Studio. Several aspects of the design have been revisited – from the prominent, grooved indexes, which have been slimmed down and elongated, to the multifaceted lugs, which are now narrower and have a smaller surface area – the Evolution 9 style adapted for a dress watch. grand-seiko.com

“Wandering around the Salon, you might be drawn to the blacksmith foundry spectacle at Jaeger-LeCoultre, or the hioctane energy of TUDOR and TAG Heuer”

the Gregorian calendar’s leap-year-exception rules by skipping the leap year three times over 400 years. True to the engineers’ innovative spirit, the piece incorporates a moon phase display that will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years.

A nature lover and sailor myself, I headed for Montblanc and Panerai to learn more about their oceanic pursuits. Montblanc changed perspective this year, going 4 810m deep instead of into the mountains to promote this year’s hero watch, the Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810. The walls of a gigantic luminous ice cube provided the canvas for the tale that linked new Mark Maker and world champion freediver William Trubridge, the “world's deepest man” – having dived unaided on a single breath to 102 metres – to the watch containing no oxygen for enhanced performance and durability underwater.

Meanwhile, Panerai’s booth showcased the nautical prowess of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team and its preparations for this year’s America’s Cup by adopting the hangar’s industrial aesthetic and suspending its 12-metre-long prototype weighing 2 100kg from the ceiling. “The booth design, conceived and executed completely by Studio Panerai, highlights the critical role of precision and reliability in racing, celebrating our partnership with Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli,” says Panerai Creative Director Alvaro Maggini. The design emphasised the brand's culture of innovation, spotlighting new materials like Ti-Ceramitech™ and enabling guests to explore the Submersible Luna Rossa collection amidst the machinery used to test these rugged timepieces.

BELOW: Chanel’s booth and timepieces incorporated haute couture symbols in decoration and dial design

Patek Philippe World Time

Date boasts a patented world first: a date display synchronised with local time; Parmigiani TORIC Petite Seconde 40mm crafted from precious platinum or rose gold, featuring a signature knurled bezel and hand-grained dial in sandy gold or almond green

Brands like Hermès Horloger and Oris adopted a light-hearted approach. The French watchmaker chose “an undulating installation o ering a dreamlike invitation to pause” and celebrate “simple forms asserting a powerful style”, while the iconic Oris bear waited patiently to greet guests at the booth’s entrance. Bears are known to be associated with strength, resilience, and a connection to nature, resonating with the watchmaker’s values relating to Swiss craftsmanship and tradition, while subtly underscoring its conservation and sustainability initiatives. The dial of Oris’ Aquis Date Upcycle is made of recycled PET plastic and has proved so popular it’s now available on any version of the new Aquis watches.

The event wrapped on a positive note, with more than 49 000 unique visitors recorded over the entire week – up 14 percent from 2023. Not surprising as there was plenty to inform, educate, and entertain visitors throughout the week in the new LAB, where schools, start-ups, and exhibiting brands presented their watchmaking vision. The Auditorium hosted conferences, and visitors could reflect on time standing still at Luc Debraine's photo exhibition, Timekeepers. As part of Watches and Wonders’ in the City programme, watch enthusiasts could join boutique tours, touch-and-feel sessions, and live music events, among others, while enjoying the incredible sense of community. ■

LEFT:

SEDUCTION SAINTLY

CARTIER’S SANTOS WATCH HAS BEEN AN ICON FOR OVER A CENTURY. DEBBIE HATHWAY TALKS TO PIERRE RAINERO – IMAGE, STYLE, AND HERITAGE DIRECTOR FOR CARTIER – ABOUT ITS TIMELESS APPEAL

Functionality and elegance set the tone for Cartier watches and clocks when Louis Cartier focused on developing in-house production capabilities in 1898. His brief was clear: watches must be pieces of jewellery (the gem cabochon is a nod to that) while being technically exceptional.

The Santos was an early example of a watch that met these aesthetic and technical requirements. Created for Brazilian-born aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, it was the first modern wristwatch featuring a case with incorporated lugs, demonstrating Cartier’s ability to anticipate trends and his perception of a world on the move.

Initially purpose-designed for ease of use in the cockpit, I asked Pierre Rainero, Director of Image, Style, and Heritage at Cartier, what gives the Santos a sense of occasion today. Do watch enthusiasts cleave to the design and the story in equal measure?

“I think that, well, the Santos in fact is the Santos. Of course, there are evolutions. The bracelets change, there’s the notion of convenience because you can now exchange from a metal bracelet to a leather strap in a very easy way [the watch is sold with the two], but I think, probably, people are looking at it differently today.”

Pierre classifies it as a “convenient watch” – an accessory choice you can be confident will see you through every different circumstance in a day. If you’re undecided, go for the Santos de Cartier for a sporty look and the Santos-Dumont for a dressier occasion. “But it carries all the parameters that Cartier always cultivated… the notion of elegance conveyed by that notion of comfort. And the notion of design because, of course, there’s no other design more historical than Santos.”

Beyond sales though, what is driving the conversation around Santos? For Pierre, it’s curiosity. “Personally, I’ve never had so many questions about the history of Santos. And I think because people don’t know the history, they are interested in the design, and then they raise the questions ‘how’ and ‘when’? And I like the idea that people are seduced by the object, not necessarily by the brand or the history. So, I think, for me, that’s the best reward in that watch. People are seduced because it’s a good design.”

The colourway works its magic, too. “Maybe because it makes it different – less like an institution – there’s a playfulness about the colours. And in a way, also, of making it yours. On top of proposing another beautiful object, it’s a way of showing how this design is strong, offering the possibility of variations. You know it’s very Santos, but also different. And we deliberately wanted to create different perceptions of colour according to the light; we didn’t want something totally plain.”

While simplicity, practicality, and innovation have undoubtedly contributed to the success of the line, Cartier watch ambassador Jake Gyllenhaal was spot on when he told Esquire magazine: “I think there’s an idea of progressing – of forward movement – that is the essence of the [Santos] watch, even though it was created over a century ago.”

With its sophisticated dial and shape, its sporty, elegant look, and wealth of design, Pierre agrees that it is “rich in possibilities.” And women love it, too. It’s comfortable on the wrist, immediately recognisable with its square case and round angles with eight visible screws, yet conveys a sense of newness through the designers’ exploration of pure aesthetics. “I think there’s an element of seduction. Elemant de seducio. It’s really French. Maybe I’m too French in saying that!” ■

From her early years, Chopard’s Co-President and Artistic Director, Caroline Scheufele, was immersed in the world of gemstones. She remembers her mother, Karin, meticulously selecting stones in the maison’s gemstone department – a process that was driven by a deep appreciation for their hues, brilliance, and textures.

Only the purest, most luminous diamonds will do. Karin personally oversees the selection of stones for the L’Heure du Diamant watch collection, more of which were revealed at Watches and Wonders Geneva this year. If anything, the maison’s creations shine brighter because of its focus on ethical sourcing.

Over a decade ago, Chopard instigated a much-needed awareness campaign about sustainability in the luxury watch and jewellery industry. Caroline explains that with the advent of Chopard’s Journey to Sustainable Luxury, “we began rethinking our supply of gold, but,

inevitably, deployed our standards to diamonds and coloured gemstones. All our diamonds are sourced from RJC-certified suppliers.”

What’s more, knowing the material is responsibly sourced stimulates her creativity. “We try to incorporate sustainability as much as possible in our watch and jewellery creations through eco-design thinking and the integration of responsible materials, such as our 100 percent ethical gold or the Lucent Steel. I believe as an international maison, we have a responsibility to create our pieces in the most ethical way possible. We have a duty to protect the environment and to support the local mining communities. I think the luxury industry has made some pivotal improvements, but there remains a lot more work to be done.”

Several examples of Chopard’s prowess in watchmaking and jewellery were revealed at Watches and Wonders. More than 400 hours of work went into decorating two new models in the Haute

TIMELESS TREASURES

for Contemporary Women

Joaillerie collection with diamonds and sapphires. The watches feature over 1 000 carefully selected stones set in ethical 18-karat white gold, forming a signature lace pattern emblematic of Chopard’s style.

The L’Heure du Diamant collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to ethical luxury. These 26mm jewellery watches made in ethical gold, blend contemporary design with masterful craftsmanship. The dials, adorned with diamonds, showcase the crown-setting technique, enhancing the brilliance of the diamonds. The intricate ribbon of brilliant-cut diamonds encircling the case illuminates the delicate dial.

RIGHT:

L’Heure du Diamant – Watch in ethical 18kt rose gold (26mm); malachite dial bearing hourmarkers set with brilliant-cut diamonds and gilded leafshaped hours and minutes hands; bezel set with brilliantcut diamonds; glare-proofed sapphire crystal; mechanical manual-winding Chopard 10.01-C movement; bark-style bracelet in ethical 18kt rose gold. Ref. 10A178-5321

COUTURE

CHOPARD’S JEWELLERY WATCHES ARE A FUSION OF ETHICS, HAUTE JOAILLERIE, AND HAUTE

WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY

Crafted with ethical 18-karat white or rose gold, the bark-style bracelet embodies botanical elegance. This technique, originating from the Scheufele family’s legacy, highlights unparalleled skill. Additionally, a satin strap option provides comfort and versatility for the wearer.

“I am very proud to spread the message that a different, more responsible way of doing business is possible. While it hasn’t been easy, it is achievable, and at Chopard, we will continue our Journey to Sustainable Luxury to build a better future. I see a bright future for the luxury industry under the banner of sustainability and ethics,” says Caroline. ■

TOP:

Haute Joaillerie – Jewellery watch in Fairminedcertified ethical 18kt white gold, entirely set with pear-shaped (22.93cts) and brilliant-cut (4.36cts) sapphires, as well as brilliant-cut (6.47cts) and pear-shaped (6.08cts) diamonds. Mother-ofpearl dial. Ref. 104327-1001

ABOVE:

Haute Joaillerie – Jewellery watch in Fairminedcertified ethical 18kt white gold, entirely set with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. Motherof-pearl dial. Ref. 104327-1002

DEBBIE HATHWAY TALKS ABOUT ACCESSIBLE LUXURY WITH THREE LEADING INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKERS

CEO’S DESK From the

ELIE BERNHEIM CEO, RAYMOND WEIL

It was third-time lucky for Raymond Weil, first-time exhibitors at Watches and Wonders Geneva this year. CEO Elie Bernheim adopted a wait-and-see position when the organisers prepared the comeback in 2022 and simultaneously invited applications to attend the 2023 edition. “We didn’t miss the third one. We quickly realised it was important for everyone because we all want to connect with each other. We are human. We want to meet with each other – our partners, our suppliers, our distributors. It’s a very specific moment in the year when we can all be together. It’s very convenient to welcome everyone at the same time at the same place. We are very happy, and very proud to be part of this beautiful event, knowing there was a long queue of brands expecting to attend this fair. Being selected is a great message for everyone in Geneva who is working with me.”

Soon after Elie told his team and partners about their attendance, the independent Swiss watchmaker’s Millesime Small Seconds won the Challenge Prize at the GPHG Awards

– their first, and a big moment for the family brand established almost 50 years ago. He believes it says a lot about the brand’s positioning and its ability to develop refined, elegant timepieces at accessible prices of less than CHF 2 000. “The price of this watch is CHF 1 895. It’s our average price on the market. It’s where we are and who we are. Then we launched the Freelancer Basquiat Special Edition Men’s Automatic Watch with the American painter Jean-Michel Basquiat, which sold out. Sometimes, there is a positive line of good news, which was definitely the case for us.”

How does Elie see the luxury of time? “Taking time. I’m very intense and very passionate. I can do many things, but I realise now that I need to learn to stop.”

NIELS EGGERDING

CEO, FREDERIQUE

CONSTANT

Geneva-based Frederique Constant is another top brand that makes highquality Swiss watches at accessible price points. CEO Niels Eggerding explains the strategic focus on producing watches in three segments: manufacture movements, automatic and quartz. “We need the volume from the automatic and quartz models to fund the manufacture pieces that capture the storytelling, showcase our watchmaking skills, and drive our innovation spirit, automatically bringing value to the brand. An innovator always wins the public and the media, but we cannot do that if we don’t have the volume,” says Niels. “We also use the simplest form of the movement – reliable, durable, less sensitive to damage, and fewer components.”

Last year, the maison unveiled a Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture in platinum, featuring a meteorite dial in a platinum case, limited to 35 pieces, to celebrate its 35th birthday and the 15th anniversary of its Tourbillon calibre. “It is an exceptional piece. It sold out (at Watches and Wonders)

right away. Regular dials are perfect, but meteorite emphasises a bit more of the craftsmanship, the hand cutting, and natural stone.”

What does he hope people take away from Watches and Wonders? “For me, it’s important that people realise that after the luxury boom from Covid, prices are coming back to normal.”

To put that in perspective, a watch with a non-manufacture movement like the Highlife Gents COSC FC-303N4NH6B is priced at CHF 1 995. The 10-year anniversary Manufacture World Timer range is priced between CHF 4 395 and CHF 4 595, while the Classic Tourbillon Meteorite Manufacture mentioned previously retailed for CHF 42 995.

“We have a fair product for a fair price with a lot of value behind it, especially because we create our own movements and assemble our watches by hand.”

For Niels, the luxury of time is enjoying what he does at work and relishing time with his family in a safe environment.

“We live in the mountains with a lake view, where I’m happy to see my kids playing and being safe. That’s a luxury for me – safety.”

EDOUARD MEYLAN

CEO, H. MOSER & CIE.

You know you’ve nailed a marketing brief when a brand partnership gets the nod from both a 12-year-old and an 80-yearold. Such was the case when H. Moser & Cie. agreed to be the o cial timekeeping partner for Alpine Motorsports – CEO Edouard Meylan’s son is a F1 fan, while

his father owns and races Alpine cars. Coincidentally, the CEO of Renault Group, who owns Alpine, collects Moser watches. “When Alpine reached out to us wanting to reposition its team as a more premium luxury brand and finding synergy with us we decided to explore it.”

Until now, Moser has been quite vocal about not using sponsorship or ambassadors to promote the brand. “We prefer to let our watches do the talking. What’s interesting is the journey, collaborating with their engineers, learning from their world. We’re doing it for visibility and brand awareness, and the possibility to o er something di erent in terms of experiences for our clients who can buy everything – from ice driving to driving F1 to meeting the pilots.”

Moser’s two significant novelties launched at the fair are on either side of the price spectrum. The Pioneer Centre Seconds Citrus replaced a planned

TAG HEUER’S CAROLE KASAPI TALKS ABOUT CREATION AND INNOVATION IN WATCH VALLEY

CRAFTING TIME

With a keen eye on heritage and innovation, Carole Kasapi spearheads TAG Heuer’s movement strategy, aiming for longevity and quality.

“We don’t want to innovate just to innovate. We want to create, of course, desirability, something totally in line with the maison, the DNA, the spirit. and propose something which makes sense. Very simple.”

Born into a family of watchmakers, her journey through the Swiss city La Chaux-de-Fonds has been marked by accolades and a passion for innovation. Unlikely to elaborate on this in conversation – it’s not her style – she’d rather talk about some of her latest creations, like the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche based on the Heuer 02 movement, with a special twist inspired by the Porsche 911. “Just as the car went from 0 to 100km/h in just 9.1 seconds, so does our second hand.” Her a nity for speed extends beyond design, evident in her personal love for Porsche. “There is a connection,” she smiles.

standard model with indexes after a brainstorming session with Edouard’s brother, Bertrand, which led to the Citrus. “It’s a minimalistic concept – no logo, no indexes, a bright green-yellowish dial, lots of Superluminova, blue strap, and new HMC 201 movement. For me, it’s important to continue to attract young, fresh collectors who want to enter independent watchmaking, and there are not many brands that can o er what we do around USD 15 000.”

The other novelty at the higher end (CHF 79 000) is the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton 40mm Double Hairspring, incorporating the new movement HMC814 and a smaller, flatter double hairspring to fit this size case. “It’s spectacular. The anthracite movement contrasts with the rose gold indexes and hands and is quite easy to read.”

Meanwhile, Edouard’s approach to luxury is investing in health, wellbeing, and family. “At the end of the day, quality time is luxury. As the kids grow, I try to be better at leaving work outside the house. It’s not about how much time, but that when you’re with them, then you’re really with them.” ■

Yet, amidst the pulse of motorsport, she finds solace in the precision of timekeeping, exemplified by her choice of wristwatches. She’s wearing one on each wrist at the interview – the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch, her first “100 percent baby for the maison” – and the new Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in titanium, all the better to explain the ingenuity of the Rattrapante function, o ering simultaneous time interval measurement, and the split-seconds chronograph.

More than a century ago, TAG was well known for Rattrapante stopwatches, as evidenced by archival advertisements discovered a week before the watch fair. “So, imagine how close we are to this complication. At the beginning of the 20th century, this was the start of international sport competitions, the beginning of car racing, and each team needed Rattrapante stopwatches. Heuer was very well known for this at that time. I don’t know why, but during the history of the maison, they never produced a wristwatch with this complication. Never. This is the very first one.”

Beyond the mechanics of timepieces, she reflects on the luxury of time itself – a universal constant that transcends boundaries. Outside the maison, Carole finds joy in the simple pleasures of life, cherishing moments in her garden alongside her feline companion, Tourbillon. ■

DECODING THE POWER OF SIGNATURE STYLE

IN A CONVERSATION THAT SETS OUT TO FRAME THE RICH ICONOGRAPHY OF TREVOR STUURMAN, NTOKOZO MASEKO USES THE LENS OF PERSONAL STYLE TO CAPTURE A CLOSE UP OF HISTORY IN THE MAKING PHOTOGRAPHER & RETOUCHER Abdul Lesedi Goulanka

From the age of 19, when he started working for Elle, visual artist and photographer Trevor Stuurman found ingenious ways to use the contemporary mediums of photography and the Instagram feed to create a fresh narrative about what Africa ‘looks like.’ A figment of his formative years, 2024 Trevor is the resulting figure of a childhood that was fertile with seeds for a remarkable life. His parents lived interesting lives long before lexicographers officially coined phrases such as the thankfully short-lived ‘Black diamonds’ (used to describe the new Black middle class), ‘tastemaker’, or ‘quiet luxury.’ His mother was a purveyor of beautiful objects, and often travelled from their home in Kimberley to Johannesburg and all over the continent to procure anything from tea sets to textiles for the influential elite of the Northern Cape. She also worked in the diamond industry together with Trevor’s father, who was an entrepreneur in the diamond space. This kind of life is not to be automatically equated with wealth – I don’t even ask Trevor where his upbringing was on the wealth spectrum, because in the Black experience, it doesn’t matter. For many of us, luxury, good taste, and cultured living existed in spite of means and outside of commercialism and consumption.

“The fact that we wake up every day gives meaning to life”

Trevor references his parents as his very first sources of inspiration for his appreciation of luxury, as well as his style. “My mother and father were the most stylish people in my life. I was able to take many notes from them. They were able to outdress any circumstance and were never limited by occupation or economic bracket. They always stepped out as the most elevated versions of themselves, and that made them superheroes to me.”

The topic of how childhood shapes the adult existence is not new, but it remains dynamic enough to take on new meaning for every generation. “I read an interesting quote the other day and I saved it on my phone,” he says while we’re seated in his office. “We look at the world once in childhood. The rest is memory,” he reads out loud, quoting the closing words of Nobel Prize laureate Louise Glück’s poem titled Nostos. “I think this resonates because it’s almost like you reincarnate your childhood in different ways, and you keep meeting it at different times, in different settings.”

To demonstrate this, he shows me a certificate that reads, “St. Patrick’s College Kimberley awards Trevor Stuurman the Louis Klein Cup of initiative for starting the formidable and creative Papermaking Group.” When he describes his group’s exploits, which included collecting different magazines and books to create their own paper from scratch, and how this paper would then be exhibited like artworks for his peers, his inner child peeks out through his eyes. “My love of publishing, storytelling, creating, and exhibiting tracks back to that part of my childhood. It’s almost like that was the dress rehearsal and now’s the show. By the time I moved to Cape Town to study film, majoring in production and costume design, I was just refining what I’d always been doing, which is creating.”

It’s a casual day when we meet a day after the fashion-fuelled shoot for this article, but you wouldn’t know based on his look. Wearing a Daily Paper Apolo shirt, loose-fitting monogrammed Gucci pants, and limited-edition leopard-print Adidas x Wales Bonner Samba sneakers, it’s evident that even his most casual moments reflect considered coherence. It’s the exploration of this effortlessness that was stamped and sealed in childhood that takes up a sizeable portion of our conversation.

Inspired by our June issue focus on tasteful living expressed through a male perspective, the cover shoot visually references the Wes Anderson short film created for Montblanc’s 100-year celebration of its iconic writing instrument, the Meisterstück. Trevor, whose fashion is as much a hallmark of his brand as the images he produces, frequently collaborates with Montblanc, presenting a timely meeting of worlds that bring to life the theme of the moment: sartorialism and signature style. The power of instantly recognisable individuality is not only explored in our conversation, it repeatedly played out during the photoshoot as well.

“I’ve always thought of my signature style in three ways,” he says when it’s my turn to hold up my phone to land a point. I hold up the ‘man-in-the-hat’ silhouette I captured during the shoot to freeze the moment for myself more than anything, to which he responds, “Exactly, I always think of iconic people and what they look like when they are backlit. You can see Marilyn Monroe in silhouette. You know what Michael Jackson’s silhouette looks like, so I worked on my own silhouette as I think it’s important to know yourself even when the lights are off. Secondly, I used my signature look to create a character. I studied film, so I understand character development, and I understand that the industry requires you to be a character. I stay true to this character because it’s important for growth, but I also need to be able to detach from the character so I can remain true to myself. My signature look also makes me stand taller; I’m not the tallest person, but when I wear a hat, I feel taller, I look taller – I am taller in the moment.”

The pen has a long-standing public and personal relationship with the capturing of story and history. Trevor, who was recently hosted by Montblanc in Los Angeles to commemorate a century of Meisterstück, likens the power of a signature style to that of a pen and how it “opens up the opportunity to make things matter, giving a longer lifespan to any moment by making it official.” How might the impact of signature iconography like that of Montblanc’s instantly identifiable rounded star or his historymaking imagery be distilled and personalised in the everyday man’s life? “I don’t think you have to be a public figure to be remembered. The fact that we wake up every day gives meaning to life. Think of it as a way to romanticise your life. For example, your children will always remember how you created morning rituals for them or hosted beautiful dinners. They will remember how the table was set, the music that played, how the house smelled – all of those are signature notes we end up embodying in adulthood,” he says, bringing our hour-long conversation to a poignant full stop.

On my way out of his office, I request a copy of Reflecting B(l)ack, the limited-edition Pan-African book Trevor recently published, featuring works from photographers depicting a ‘right now’ snapshot of contemporary Africa. Launched under The Manor, a platform he founded to create community for artists, the thought strikes me that the restoration of institutionalised knowledge and the active archiving and preservation of our existence will hopefully immortalise names like Trevor Stuurman for 100 years and beyond, just as the Meisterstück’s legacy has endured. As a parting shot, he signs my copy: “To Ntokozo, stay in your magic. Love Trevor Stuurman,” leaving me with a knowing feeling that the note and signature I watched him write in real-time will one day be an invaluable slice of history. ■

THE BLACK CIGAR-SHAPED DESIGN, THREE GOLD RINGS, AND HANDCRAFTED GOLD NIB ENTERS ITS CENTENARY YEAR

WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY

Writing history with Meisterstück

Start researching famous writings penned with a Montblanc writing instrument and prepare yourself to dive deep down a rabbit hole of fascinating revelations. A member of the Fountain Pen Network from Chennai, India, puts the experience into perspective: “I recently fell in love with something inanimate but filled with more life than I could possibly fathom… Montblanc pens. The [feel] of them gives me sheer joy. The very sight of the star gives me immense pleasure. The paper seems to long for the gentle caress of the pen and I stop to wonder how many great poems and epics were written just because this pen materialised in creative fingers…”

THESE SENTIMENTS ARE SHARED BY CONTEMPORARIES THE WORLD OVER.

For 100 years, the maison’s most recognisable product – the Meisterstück (“Mys-ter-stook”), meaning masterpiece in German – has captured millions of stories written by creatives, famous or otherwise. Well-known users of the Montblanc Meisterstück 149, its most famous model, include English novelist Iris Murdoch, writer and artist Steve Light, lyricist and filmmaker Gulzar, illustrator Ronald Searle, actors Lorne Greene (Bonanza, Battlestar Galactica) and Yves Montand. Nelson Mandela, Yoko Ono, John F. Kennedy, Barack Obama, Albert Einstein, Queen Elizabeth II, Mahatma Gandhi, and Pablo Picasso are among the luminaries favouring these exquisitely crafted writing instruments. Anne Frank wrote her famous diary with a Montblanc pen… and so the list goes on.

CELEBRATE 100 YEARS OF CRAFT WITH THE CUSTOM NIB CONFIGURATOR

The point is that this quintessential writing instrument has left an indelible mark since it first appeared in 1924. It is a hallmark of quality, a testament to the enduring power of craftsmanship, and a true status symbol. Today, Montblanc is a leader in designing and producing bags and leather goods, watches, stationery, headphones, fragrances, and accessories, but its foundations were built on making pens.

The maison was founded by three German partners as the Simplizissiumus-Füllhalter pen company in Berlin in 1906. The name was changed to Simplo Filler Pen Co. GMBH, and they moved to Hamburg in 1907. The factory and museum, Montblanc Haus, are still there.

According to throughouthistory.com, in the coding of the “149”: “1” refers to the product line, i.e. Meisterstück, “4” refers to the filling mechanism (pens with “4” were piston-fillers), and the “9” refers to the size of the nib. Ergo, a Model 149 was a Meisterstück piston-filler with a #9 nib.

Collectors are discerning about the type of nib they prefer and have been known to make bespoke orders. Select Montblanc flagship boutiques, including the Sandton boutique, now offer an exclusive bespoke nib configurator service for those customers who want to find the perfect match for their writing style. Because Montblanc knows that handwriting is a personal experience, the brand has developed a fully bespoke service that caters to its customers’ unique and individual writing needs. By combining the latest technology with the longstanding tradition of craftsmanship, Montblanc’s bespoke nib configurator allows clients to customise both the technical and aesthetic features of the nib to add a truly personal touch to their Montblanc fountain pen.

Once customers have selected their preferred nib, they can customise their design with bespoke characters, symbols, coatings, or even precious jewels. A Meisterstück is not just a pen; it’s a canvas for unique expression. ■ montblanc.com

DRIVEN elegance

WE DELVE INTO THE CAPTIVATING WORLDS OF TWO OF SOUTH AFRICA’S GREAT SUCCESSES, UNCOVERING THE NARRATIVES BEHIND THEIR CHOICE OF VEHICLES AND THE LIFESTYLES THEY EMBODY WORDS EDWARD MAKWANA

In the heart of South Africa, where cultures intertwine and landscapes captivate, a cadre of visionaries emerges. Their journeys are not merely defined by success, but also by the vehicles that accompany them on their paths. From the energy of urban centres to the tranquil embrace of countryside retreats, these trailblazers traverse life’s terrain with style – their wheels serving as a reflection of discerning taste and a commitment to excellence.

TSHEPO MOHLALA

Our exploration begins with Tshepo Mohlala, Founder and Creative Director of fashion brand Tshepo. Known for their jeans, Tshepo is a beacon of South African craftsmanship, offering bespoke clothing and ready-to-wear products. His affinity for denim stems from its nostalgic allure and storytelling potential.

“When I turned 24, I made a clear choice to dedicate my late 20s to becoming a master jean-maker,” he shares. For him, luxury lies in the meticulous process of creation, where every stage – from hand-picking cotton to crafting the final product – is imbued with significance.

Tshepo’s vehicle of choice, the MINI Clubman, embodies craftsmanship and functionality. He elaborates, “I love the extra boot space in a compact car like this, designed with the buzz of the city in mind. For some reason, it doesn’t position you as a wealthy person or a person who loves speed, but a person with a distinct taste for the finer things in life.”

MINI South Africa extols the virtues of the Clubman, highlighting its versatility and spaciousness. With unique split rear doors

and a capacious luggage compartment, it remains one of the most versatile models in the MINI lineup.

Beyond his car, Tshepo surrounds his living and working spaces with stories, nature, and art in downtown Johannesburg’s Victoria Yards. His signature style, characterised by denim, seamlessly transitions from the boardroom to casual gatherings, reflecting versatility and authenticity. Delving into the realm of horology, he incorporates a Zenith watch into his ensemble, while his signature fragrance, “BURNING STAR” – developed by Tshepo and music producer and DJ, Sir LSG –evokes spicy and fruity notes, embodying the essence of his character.

In the luxury retail world, Amsterdam holds a special allure for Tshepo’s shopping indulgences, while South Africa, Europe, and Japan beckon with promises of adventure. “I love Amsterdam. I enjoy walking and seeing different stores. It’s currently my favourite shopping location. There is so much to discover whether I am on a bicycle or just taking a stroll,” he says.

JAMES PEECH

Our journey continues with James Peech, the Founder and Owner of The Peech Boutique Hotel in Melrose, Johannesburg.

His style is a fusion of sophistication and South African craftsmanship, evident in his choice of designer jeans (coincidentally, he’s a fan of Tshepo jeans) and locally sourced footwear.

“I love some of the up-and-coming South African labels whose brands are built using quality, locally sourced materials, passion, and great craftsmanship. My favourites include Freedom of Movement footwear and clothing, Woodstock Laundry pyjamas, Tshepo jeans, Bummel shoes, and Granadilla cozzies,” he says.

Defining luxury as quality time with loved ones and an appreciation for life’s simple pleasures, James’ vehicle of choice – the custom-order Ineos Grenadier – speaks to his adventurous spirit and appreciation of rugged terrain. “It’s not a luxury vehicle, but it’s the epitome of off-road adventure and exploration, built for the incredible terrain in this country and

PREVIOUS PAGES:

The extra boot space in his compact MINI Clubman is ideal for the buzz of the city, says Tshepo Mohlala

ABOVE & RIGHT: James Peech takes on all terrains in his Ineos Grenadier, but the Audi RS e-Tron GT is on the top of his wish list

beyond our borders. I bought it for our family to explore Africa,” he adds.

The Ineos Grenadier boasts a robust chassis, solid beam axles, and powerful engines, making it the ultimate companion for African adventures.

Envisioning automotive excellence and epitomising his appreciation for craftsmanship, James’ dream car is the Audi RS e-Tron GT. “It’s for the autobahn in Germany, but that’s my first choice. For navigating Jozi potholes and taxis, I like my Ineos with bull bars.”

With destinations like Arijiju Retreat in Kenya and Singita Kwitonda in Rwanda

on his bucket list, James’ spirit of adventure is very clear. “I’d love to visit Tswalu in the Karoo and dine at Klein Jan. I’ve been lucky enough to stay at Singita Sweni Lodge in the Kruger. For our next off-road family trip, we’re planning to visit Zimbabwe and explore Namibia’s Wild Coast. Further afield, I’d love to spend more time in Japan, visit South America, as well as the Nordic countries. Otherwise, I’ll go anywhere with great snow.”

At home and in the office, James curates spaces that blend functionality and sentimentality, cherished heirlooms, and contemporary art. “I don’t like superfluous things,” he says, adding “I love great design and functionality, wide-open outdoor spaces, and a breathtaking view.”

His everyday timepiece is an Omega Sea Master, but he says one day he might wear a more refined Cartier Tank or Santos. Scent-wise, Issey Miyake’s L’ Eau d’Issey Pour Homme captures his essence.

When it comes to shopping destinations, James enjoys visiting the old-school stores in London’s Bond Street and Sloane Square where quality and craftsmanship reign supreme.

From Tshepo’s dedication to true craftsmanship in denim to James’ adventurous spirit, it’s clear that both embody a unique blend of sophistication, authenticity, and a commitment to their craft. The vehicles they choose to accompany them on their journeys are not mere modes of transportation, but reflections of discerning tastes. ■ tshepo.shop; thepeech.co.za

THE FOUNDER OF NAVIGATE WORLD WHISKY AND THE NPF TASTING ROOMS IN JOHANNESBURG, ALEX DE UJFALUSSY, IS A PASSIONATE COLLECTOR PIONEERING THE WHISKY-COLLECTING CULTURE IN SOUTH AFRICA

COMPILED BY LEIGH HERRINGER

ASSETSLiquid

AHungarian-South African who grew up in Cape Town and Johannesburg, Alex de Ujfalussy never aspired or imagined he’d be involved in the whisky industry. While studying a BCom and coaching tennis in his spare time, drinking whisky was more about enjoying a few drams with friends. “Whisky was an evolution for me – as I began tasting and collecting more seriously, I developed my palate and knowledge, and started making contacts abroad,” he says in The Navigator, an annual showcase for his spirit import company, Navigate World Whisky.

As a young adult, Alex was a keen cook. “I suppose you could say that mealtime, dram time and downtime went together. The more time I spent tasting and chatting about whiskies, the more I learnt – the stories, people, production, packaging, taste profiles, and the collectability – it ticked every box for me. I was surprised at just how sought after some of these bottlings I had acquired became once they were discontinued, sold out or hard to find,” he tells us.

At 23, Alex ventured into imports and distribution, first into food and packaging, then pharmaceuticals, and disposable wear, among others. “When I decided to take whisky collecting to a new level, the fact that we already had an established import, warehousing, and distribution infrastructure ultimately meant turning my passion into a business was inevitable,” he explains. “It was also a great opportunity to work with La Maison du Whisky to bring new distilleries and bottlings to South Africa.”

While the global whisky market – including South Africa’s – is robust, there are only a handful of discerning whisky collectors within our borders. “To grow this, we need more collectorworthy bottlings to be distributed locally, along with some next level awareness. Slowly but surely, I believe this is happening,” he says.

HOW DOES ONE COLLECT RARE WHISKY? Thankfully, it’s easier these days as far more limited-edition bottlings come into South Africa. Whisky clubs, importers, and distributors all play a part, as does being informed about the whisky world – its news, social media platforms and auctions. It would be remiss of me not to mention spiritssouthfrica.com too. At the height of my collection over the past year or two, I had around 10 000 bottles, but these days I’m uncertain whether I’m accumulating or depleting the collection faster! I safeguard 1 200 very special bottles – a number large enough to be a collection, but still within a manageable quantity.

WHAT MAKES WHISKY COLLECTIBLE? It’s up to the collector. It could be its value proposition or sentiment that you’d like to have in the future or be able to pass on. I think a defining factor is that it needs to be something that won’t always be available, but please don’t take that to mean everything limited is collectible.

PITFALL’S THAT NOVICE COLLECTORS SHOULD LOOK OUT FOR? Like any luxury investment, be careful of scams and overpaying. Big brands constantly o er high prices for “limited editions”.

CURRENT WHISKY PRODUCTION TRENDS? Without question, the worldwide trend is to make better whisky in a shorter time. This requires a focused approach to fermentation, quality barrels, and the creation of a quality spirit before it’s aged. For too long, the modus operandi has been to make as much as possible, in as quick a production time as possible, and to simply barrel it no matter how old or used the cask is.

ARE BLENDED WHISKIES MAKING A COMEBACK? I’ve heard that from a few places, but blends always have, and continue to dominate the market. At least 90 percent of all Scotch whisky production has been grain whisky, not single malts. Single-grain whiskies are featuring more and we should watch the nuggety clever blending brands, such as Compass Box or Woven Whisky, which is just about to be released in South Africa.

HOW DOES ONE VALUE A WHISKY COLLECTION?

A willing buyer and a willing seller ultimately define the value of a whisky collection. It’s also valued by the second-hand market when stores and auction houses resell these bottlings. If it’s on auction, consider the hammer fees and the logistics of getting your bottles there. Sometimes a broker, reseller, or interested party may take them o your hands, and whilst not an auction, the value still yields a desirable result. Keep a log of what you’ve bought and when, record the names, the alcohol content (ABV), and other descriptor details.

WHICH WHISKY IS CONSIDERED THE BEST IN THE WORLD? Michter’s was recently named the world’s most admired whisky in the annual Top 50 List by Drinks International. It’s available for the first time in South Africa.

ARE THERE FEMALE WHISKY COLLECTORS? There are a few avid whisky ladies collecting on a smaller scale, and I wouldn’t be surprised if more women venture into this space. Old records point to an ancient Egyptian woman as the inventor of the earliest recorded distilling apparatus.

A WHISKY YOU WOULD LOVE TO ADD TO YOUR PERSONAL COLLECTION? There are many, but what really stands out is a single barrel, Pappy Van Winkle, 1985 barrel #A3114, a cask for La Maison du Whisky. I need one of these.

BEST WHISKY BAR? In 2022, I launched the NPF (Nose.Palate. Finish) Tasting Room in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg and we’re opening a second one later this month in Rosebank. We o er about 1 000 rare whiskies between them. Internationally, The Golden Promise Whisky Bar in Paris is mesmerising.

TOP THREE WHISKIES IN YOUR PERSONAL COLLECTION It’s tricky, but these three are old and rare, and all from the early 1950’s. Macallan 1951 Fine & Rare, Glen Grant 1952 70 year old, G&M, and Glenlivet 1951 LMDW Cellar Book. ■ navigatewhisky.com; npftastingroom.com

dreaming DESERT

WITH ITS VINTAGE STYLE AND ENVIABLE PRIVACY, JACK’S NEW EXCLUSIVE-USE PRIVATE CAMP ON BOTSWANA’S MAKGADIKGADI SALT PANS IS EXACTLY WHAT SAFARI DREAMS ARE MADE OF WORDS RICHARD HOLMES

As the roar of the Cessna Grand Caravan winging its way back to Maun faded into the distance, the void was filled by the perfect silence that only a desert can bring. We’d been delivered to the fringes of the Makgadikgadi Pans of central Botswana, and I couldn’t have been happier. Because appearing through the shimmering heat haze, as if little more than a mirage, I could clearly make out the scalloped canvas roofs and waving palm trees that marked our desert hideaway for the next few days: Jack’s Camp.

For more than 30 years, this luxury tented camp has been an icon in the world of African safaris; an outpost of opulence and glamour in one of the most remote locations in Southern Africa. A place where extra-large suites offer inimitable style and indulgent amounts of personal space – not to mention private plunge pools (in the desert!) and expansive decks gazing out across the Pans. In the main ‘mess’ tent, the communal dining table is laid with crystal and silver each evening, while the lounge of wingback chairs and deep-buttoned couches segues through

canvas doorways to a billiards room with a well-stocked bar. Afternoon tea before your evening drive? Kick off your shoes and take a seat in the Bedouin-style tea tent, if you please.

From the leather-and-wood campaignstyle furniture – much of which is handcrafted in Botswana – to the abundance of burnished brass and plush furnishings, it all combines to create a sense of vintage safari glamour. An aesthetic that revels in an ethos of more is more without ever lapsing into pastiche.

It’s all the creation of Ralph Bousfield, who established Jack’s in 1992 and named it in honour of his father. Jack Bousfield was a swashbuckling crocodilehunter-turned-safari-pioneer, a visionary who saw the potential for photographic tourism in the region and pitched his rustic tents in this enigmatic corner of the Makgadikgadi. Today Jack’s Camp enjoys traversing rights over a staggering

4 000-square-kilometre private concession, and with just nine tents hosting around 18 guests at a time, you’ll never feel crowded.

And yet Ralph is nothing if not a savvy safari operator. As a guide, he’s rubbed shoulders with royalty and celebrities, and as a lodge owner, he knows exactly how they prize privacy above almost everything else.

Cue the opening in April 2024 of Jack’s Private Camp – an exclusive-use undercanvas villa tailored for small groups, families, and multi-generational travellers. And, perhaps, those seeking a safari holiday away from the limelight.

Though Jack’s Private Camp is set just a short walk from the main lodge, it feels delightfully remote, gazing out across a shallow pan that will fill with rain and flamingos in the wet summer months. Happily, it’s also within the unobtrusive

ring of electric fencing that (mostly) keeps elephants and big cats from wandering through camp.

You’ll find a standalone villa, with a spacious central lounge and dining area flanked by a pair of bedroom suites, with space for additional children’s beds if needed. The bedrooms give onto en-suite bathrooms that offer trademark levels of indulgence, whether it’s the siren song of the shimmering brass bathtub or the glorious outdoor bathroom.

While the focus is on offering new levels of privacy and exclusivity, Private Camp shares the same aesthetic as the muchloved original, with splashes of colour from North African rugs and luxurious hand-woven African textiles.

The lounge – featuring Jack’s’ signature ‘cabinet of curiosities’ filled with natural history relics – leads out to a wide pool deck, where sun-drenched loungers

“If Jack’s Camp offers decadent amounts of space, Private Camp is all about the abundance of time”

offer the perfect excuse to while away your afternoon.

If Jack’s Camp offers decadent amounts of space, Private Camp is all about the abundance of time. Time to connect with friends and family. Time to linger over meals around the convivial dinner table prepared by your private chef to your individual dietary requirements. And, perhaps most importantly, time to make lifetime memories together out in the Makgadikgadi.

The Camp has a dedicated 4x4 vehicle and guide, allowing guests to dictate the pace of each day. Those hours can be filled with game drives and sunset saunters, meerkat experiences, horseback safaris, or quad-biking adventures. Say the word and the skilled guides, trained by Bousfield himself, will make it happen.

The landscapes surrounding Jack’s Private Camp are nothing short of remarkable.

While the Makgadikgadi appears bonedry for much of the year, it was once a lake fed by the rivers that flowed out of Angola and Zambia. It’s a history best discovered over sundowners out on the Pans. When the summer rains give life to a fleeting abundance of grass, this corner of the Makgadikgadi plays host to the world’s second-largest migration of zebra and wildebeest, drawn here from as far afield as the Okavango Delta and Chobe River by the promise of rain and fresh grazing. Flamingos also nest in their thousands, while jackals, cheetah, and black-maned Kalahari lions prowl the fringes seeking easy prey. When the rain dries up and the grass disappears, the mysterious Makgadikgadi Pans return to their ephemeral shimmer. It’s an otherworldly corner of Africa that’s now home to an utterly unique destination to call your own. ■

naturalselection.travel

THE BUSINESS 0F FASHION

NICOLENE ANLEY IS THE CO-FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR OF LUNA BELLE VENTURES – A SOUTH AFRICAN LUXURY RETAIL ENTERPRISE THAT BRINGS SWEDISH EYEWEAR CHIMI AND GOLDEN CONCEPT WATCH CASES TO AFRICA. WE CHATTED ABOUT INSPIRATIONS, TAKING TIME OUT IN NATURE AND HER TOP BRANDS

COMPILED

BY

SANDISO NGUBANE

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE? It’s explorative; I love texture and I’m drawn to neutrals. I enjoy playing with proportions, like wearing a formal dress with sneakers, or pairing a lace skirt with an oversized T-shirt and sneakers.

WHO’S YOUR STYLE ICON? [Fashion influencer] Grece Ghanem. I love how she has fun with fashion. Her style is unique, and I think she’s exquisite. THE ONE LUXURY ITEM YOUWANT TO ADD TO YOUR PERSONAL COLLECTION?

More stamps in my passport! I’ve always been a firm believer in collecting memories over things.

WHERE WAS THE LAST PLACE YOU TRAVELLED TO? Sweden. I enjoyed the landscape and the rich history – there was beauty around every corner. WHAT IS YOUR SIGNATURE SCENT?

Bal D’Afrique by Byredo.

TELL US ABOUT THE TIMEPIECE YOU CURRENTLY WEAR… My Golden Concept Evening Edition in gold. It’s taken my Apple Watch beyond the ordinary, and I now no longer feel like a ‘spy kid’ while wearing it.

A RECENT INDULGENT PURCHASE YOU LOVE? My car – the MINI Countryman Untamed Edition.

THE BUSINESS SIDE OF FASHION IS VERY MALE DOMINATED. HOW DO YOU NAVIGATE THAT? From my days working in the impact space and now in fashion, I’ve always thought about my daughter

WHERE DO YOU RELAX AND FIND INSPIRATION?

I spend time in nature, taking solo road trips and discovering remote cabins. The less time I spend on a phone or in front of any screen, the better.

ABOVE, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:

Some of Nicolene’s top luxury brands: CHIMI eyewear, Axel Arigato footwear, Byredo cosmetics and Golden Concept watch cases

ABOVE: Wanda Lephoto at the Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel, Confections x Collections showcase

and the future generation of women, knowing that we need to take our place. The fashion space is male dominated, as is the impact space, and there are many White males who weren’t keen on a woman coming in to protect indigenous tribes and ensure communities get equal rights. I think that really prepared me. As with fashion, luxury business is a space that women should equally dominate.

FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS? Ariel Modern Italian in Sea Point, Cape Town. I’m a sucker for tapas, so I also enjoy all the Chefs Warehouses. Rosetta Roastery on Bree Street is our neighbour, which I’m very glad about. The Secret Gin Bar is another place I love.

WHAT ARE YOUR BEAUTY ESSENTIALS? Esse, a local skincare brand I discovered quite recently. It’s a no-nonsense brand with natural ingredients, and it smells great. I love my tinted sunscreen, and I’m a KIKO Vitals devotee.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE BRANDS? Scandinavian fashion brand Axel Arigato – the quality is amazing. I love the impact story behind Byredo – the man started on the streets with nothing. Locally, I love everything from Wanda Lephoto and NAP Living, who we get our boutique fragrance from.

YOU’RE A BIG ADVOCATE FOR AFFORDABLE LUXURY… Yes, and CHIMI’s price point is the perfect example. We could be selling it for much more because of its quality, but luxury also needs to be accessible to more people, especially in South Africa. ■ lunabelleventures.com