The Yorkie, Issue 1 by Media Production at York St John University

York's live music guide+Insider: students in the adult industry+Vegans for fur?+First time house buyer's guide to York+The Healing Campus+Men's mental health+Street style

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the yorkie

WHO ARE WE? 2019

EDITOR IN CHIEF Adam Walsh DEPUTY EDITOR ARTS AND CULTURE EDITOR FASHION EDITOR PEOPLE EDITOR POLITICS EDITOR

Molly Catterall Ava Farrelly Beth Grice Brett Blacker Elisha Holt

WITH THANKS TO

Robyn Vinter Jonathan Brown Craig Walton

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION EDITOR CHIEF SUB EDITOR SUB EDITORS

Lucy Bond Larissa Nath Ava Farrelly Beth Grice Brett Blacker

DESIGNERS

Molly Catterall Hannah Wood Mia Wilson

PICTURE EDITORS

Hannah Wood Grace Lansbury Paisley Chalk Daniel Carter

PICTURE ASSISTANT

Harry McCormack Isabelle Blexill

WRITERS 2

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Ethan Storey Annabel Forster Georgie Reid Brandon Heys 01/02/2019 09:42:45

EDITOR’S LETTER When you think of the work that students do to pay off their debt, I’m sure entering into a profession within the adult industry is not the first thing you think of. Mia Wilson (Page 22-27) has looked at the challenges that face young people trying to pay for their education and how some choose this perhaps unorthodox career choice in order to repay their mounting student debt. However, Mia is very clear about how, despite some of the difficult situations these young people find themselves in, they can also be empowered by showing off “what mother nature gave” them. You will also be able to read about the moral debates facing the vegan and vegetarian lifestyle, how to get on the housing ladder for the first time and where you can go to get the best food in York. This list includes one of my personal favourites, on the far end of Micklegate! I wrote about the struggle of fighting food waste, and of the volunteers that make use of this situation to make sure that people in need around York are able to eat. While this started as an investigation into businesses that don’t donate their food, it evolved into one looking at the challenges facing the charities (who often do get help from businesses) who are trying - and succeeding - to help others.

This is the first issue of The Yorkie Magazine, a piece of work that is the culmination of three years worth of journalism training; late nights, long weeks and ever approaching deadlines. While this is not a publication for students, it was created by them and a lot of hard work went into the brilliant pieces inside. Adam Walsh

York’s historic Minster. Photo by: Lucy Bond

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NT CO T EN S 6-9 Unsung heroes 10-13 First time buyers 14 - 17 Fighting the good fight

POLITICS

E L P

rs e k or us w p ex am alth s nt ng c l he e ud eali nta nd t S h me t e on i s e 23 Th nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ou pres h e 18 - 29 M wit i de r 24 - 33 Wa t Un 30 - 37 Pos 34 - 41 38

O E P 4

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e ry id o t u g is h is c u o. rkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s s m C Yo em e & v Li es e to od g 3 Bak uid fo 4 g en c - 9 A 2 4 -4 dd usi eep i 3 H m 44 - 5 O k sh 8 Y 0 5 -5 lac 5 B 4 5 -6 60 -69 66

FASHION

D N A S RE T AR LTU CU

70 - 73 Rise in vintage 74 - 79 Street style 78 - 83 Fast fashion 84 - 87 Vegans for Fur

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Annabel Forster reports

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ave you ever wondered what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like to be homeless? To not have that safety and comfort of your own home, to not have a roof over your head or a nice warm bed waiting for you after a long day? Homelessness is on the rise, particularly in York, with numbers rising by 61% from 2017-18. The official figures for England show that 9,100 people sleep rough at night â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it happens too often that homeless people are ignored or looked down on from passers-by. The 800% rise since 2011 is a cause for concern. 20% of this are women in York, which is above the national average. This has prompted action to be taken, in a bid to combat this problem and help rough sleepers on the streets of York.

reported that they felt threatened. This was not only by other members of the street community but by the general public too. Many of those interviewed also claimed to have been subjected to police harassment â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this included being unfairly searched, arrested and repeatedly moved on. Poverty and homelessness can contribute to an abundance of health issues, the same health issues may be a concern to people who are not homeless, but the living conditions determine the severity of these health concerns. For example, coping and treating illnesses is a lot more difficult than if you have access to healthcare and clean warm water.

The effects of being homeless can be traumatic, damaging to the overall physical and mental health and hard to escape from. Evidence suggests that the longer someone is in this position, the harder it is to get back on the right track, due to distress and the lack of opportunities. In a study carried out by the charity Shelter, rough sleepers

The lack of basic facilities, cold, hunger, and the fear of the unknown are all factors which contribute to the health problems that people face sleeping rough on the streets today. This is what charities and volunteers are working on in order to combat these harsh conditions in winter, not only in York but all around the country.

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“

When we were nominated for York Community Pride awards it was amazing to be recognised in such a short space of time. Although, it was never about an award, it’s about helping these people whom have become our friends.

”

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One particular group of volunteers, which does not have a lot of publicity in York, are a small local group of inspiring volunteers who give up their spare time to feed, clothe and simply talk to the homeless. They are most often the first people in the day or even in the week to talk to them. They call themselves HOPING Street Kitchen – Hoping stands for Helping Other People In Need Group. They collect donations and cook food all week, taking to the streets of York at King’s square every Sunday and Wednesday. They offer a variety of hot food, clothes and company for those in need. I spoke to Lisa Price, the co-founder of Hoping street kitchen in York to find out more about the organisation. “We took the group over in June 2018 and have gone from strength to strength each month. We only had four of us at the beginning feeding around 15-25 people. Word got out that the meals were good (all homemade at home then warmed on gas cookers in Kings Square) and they got a pack up to take away. We have a Rota in place now, as we 20 volunteers to call on. Most of the volunteers have full time jobs and give up a massive amount of spare time. “We are a non-profitable organisation and we rely totally on donations, whether it’s passing tourists in the shambles, sleeping rough in doorways in York, raffles etc. Greggs, Farmfoods, Co-op, Morrison’s and now M&S are our selected stores where we pick up on an evening all damaged or short-dated stock which we can either cook with or give out.” Anybody is welcome to volunteer in order to help take action against the loneliness, hunger, and harsh conditions which rough sleepers face, particularly in winter. She says: “I do think it needs more publicity as the homeless community is getting bigger and bigger. They value us for a nice hot meal but also sometimes we are the first person who has spoken to them, listened to them and tried to help them. When appeals go out for things like: socks, toiletries, baby wipes, sleeping bags and rucksacks don’t just read it, do something. We are asking for a reason. “Most of the homeless have become our friends. They are waiting for us to unload the cars and vans to help us to set up the kitchen quicker. They are very protective of us as we are of them. We do use Facebook to shout it out a bit, but for others to appreciate and take the time to recognize us was such a good feeling. When we were nominated for York Community Pride awards it was amazing to be recognized in such a short space of time. Although, it was never about an award, it’s about helping these people whom have become our friends.”

While temperatures plummet throughout winter, there is a continuous need for support and there is an obvious solution to this. You can help the homeless by buying them a drink and something to eat or get involved with a charity to offer a helping hand to those who are in need. You can even simply donate any warm clothes and/or food which can then be passed onto the people who need it most. She adds: “Do not give the homeless money. Buy them a cuppa tea or a coffee. You don’t know if your feeding the person or the habit which some have.”

“

When appeals go out for things like: socks, toiletries, baby wipes, sleeping bags and Rucksacks don’t just read it, do something. We are asking for a reason.

”

Pointing them into an emergency shelter is a must. This will prevent any further deaths within the homeless community. At least 78 people died last year, both on the streets and in temporary accommodation. This brought the number of deaths to more than 300 since 2013, showing a cause for concern. You can contact the Salvation Army, or Streetlink in York if you are concerned about the safety and/or health of the homeless.

In York, there are many charities which you can also donate to: • Carecent - A breakfast centre for all homeless and unemployed, providing food, clothing and fellowship. Volunteer staff offer advice and support where possible. • Arcligt Project - Housing vulnerable people across the North East and Yorkshire. • York Foodbank - Helping local people in crisis and providing emergency food to those who need it. • Operation Warmth - Donations are welcome, they give money to charities working with rough sleepers.

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YORK: A GUIDE FOR FIRST TIME BUYERS Written by Lucy Bond

Everyone remembers the first step they take into their new home. The smell of new carpets, freshly applied paint or maybe sneezing from the dust piled on antique furniture. There is no doubt that it’s difficult for first time buyers to get onto the property ladder in York, especially with the market being so competitive. According to government statistics, the average price of a property in

England is £242,286, which is quite a hefty number for young buyers who are just starting out their adult life.

Buying a house is the biggest purchase of your life, and small mistakes can cost large. This guide will give you tips and tricks for buying your first home.

Is getting a mortgage right for you?

First time buyers don’t always need to hop into a morgage straight away, you can rent properties although, it has its downfalls. Remember that renting isn’t a dirty word, it allows freedom while you save up for a mortgage.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Buying a house is the â&#x20AC;&#x153;

biggest purchase of your life, and small mistakes may cost

POLITICS

Large

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Do you a have big enough deposit? Before even thinking about setting up a mortgage, you or your partner have to save up a big lump of money to prove to the banks that you are worthy. The more you save, the more you borrow which can also affect the type of house you want. Plus, you can find out if there are any government run schemes to help you on the property ladder. For instance, between the ages of 18 and 39, you may be eligible to get £32,000 from the government by opening a life time ISA which launched in 2017. Deputy Leader of the Liberal Democrats party, and spokesperson for housing and safer neighbourhoods, Anne Reid gives her professional advice on getting on to the property ladder: “For young people the first step would be to investigate if they do qualify for an affordable home under either the CYC policy or the Government’s Help to Buy scheme. Whichever route they go down they will need a deposit and they will need to explore their mortgage options”. “As part of our affordable housing policy we do ask for up to 20% of affordable properties on any development site over 15 houses and those are split to 80% affordable rent and 20% affordable to buy”. Reid also gives her advice on mortgages; “As for do’s and don’ts, they shouldn’t overstretch themselves as mortgage rates can go up and down. There is no guarantee that the rate they get now will stay the same in the years to come. Monthly mortgage repayments are often cheaper than renting if you have the initial deposit so in the long run they might well be better off”

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DO consider the type of different loans out there. When you have your own deposit, the step after that is going shopping for a mortgage. It’s important to make sure the mortgage you chose is suited for you. Remember that banks can turn you down if they think you’re not eligible or haven’t saved up enough money. DO check out the internet, there are many useful resources out there which will help you research advice from online estate agents. The mortgage calculator is also a useful way to have a look at an estimate of the money you may be granted. DON’T cave into any pressure. Don’t sign any documents until you know exactly what you’re signing. Don’t be afraid to ask any questions, you must be sure what you are doing. If you don’t understand then ask for a better explanation. Don’t let an estate agent push you into buying anything as you’re the one who will be living there. DO get all of your financial paper work in order. It’s important to be organised when you meet a mortgage advisor, as they may not grant you one if they see you’re not ‘with it’. The application is

viewed very carefully to see if you can pay enough money each month/year. York estate agent, Hudson Moody advises how a mortgage advisor will, “carry out an assessment of what you can afford, taking into account a wide range of issues, including your income, credit cards, credit history, loans, dependants and amount you spend on living costs”. Not to mention how you are going to manage your household bills including gas, electric and water. York is one of the most expensive cities in Yorkshire so it’s hard to find a decent place to live that is also affordable. The goverement has said that, “Affordable housing is currently being built across the York area” Home advisors, The Joseph Rowntree Housing Trust, mentions that Derwenthrope has had permission granted to build “517 homes in total with 201 of the properties considered affordable”. New Lodge in New Earswick, York will have “105 one and two bedroom extra care suites and 45 one-bedroomed residential care suites. Two blocks of apartments will be designed to provide flexible accommodation. And the former chocolate site, Terrys, has also been granted permission to build 315 homes in total has been granted; 64 of the properties will be affordable”. For more additional information, please visit www.gov.uk/housing.co.uk

Good luck to everyone who is starting out their life, whether you’re a group of friends or a happy couple just beginning their new adventure.

“

The mortgage calculator is also a useful way to have a look at an estimate of the money you may be granted

“

This section of the guide will advise you on what to do and what not to do when it comes to taking the first steps in buying your first home.

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Fighting The Good Fight Adam Walsh visits the York based charities run by

volunteers who battle against food waste in order to feed those who need it mos

York is one of England’s biggest tourist attractions, a city with a vast and fascinating history rich in beautiful architecture. However, we have a problem with homelessness, a problem with pollution and a problem with food waste. Across the UK roughly three million tonnes of food is sent to a landfill each year despite still being perfectly edible, and York is no better. This has to stop. Across York there are people trying to fight this problem by redistributing food throughout the city to help ensure that it doesn’t go to waste and that people don’t go hungry. This is essential and time consuming work. The network of volunteers who make this possible are incredibly important for the people in need around the city. These groups work hard, but need help. In the words of Ruth Jennaway from Edible York: “It’s worth getting the message out.”

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These groups need to get information out to make the system function. The challenge for them is that word of mouth is often the only way for people to find out where and when different food kitchens and community schemes are operating.

“We all work full time, there are other commitments with kids” In just 18 months, Hoping York Kitchen has been able to build a network that reaches across the entire city. They set up shop, so to speak, in King’s square every Wednesday and Sunday. People can turn up and get a hot meal and drink, some conversation and as much food as they need to take away with them. Overcoming this challenge is the real task alongside connecting with businesses that

can provide the food. Hoping York Kitchen has been able to connect with the head offices of Greggs and Co-op in addition to receiving donations constantly from the people of York. These come in the form of money, food and clothes. It has been no small task either, the level of commitment from the core set of volunteers for Hoping York Kitchen is extraordinary. Most of the managing team are in full time employment and have children as well; they simply find the time to become this essential lifeline to so many people around York. When I visited the kitchen to see it in action, there was a real sense of community as all the volunteers got set up and got going and plenty of visitors helped as well. While there was some ‑ not much ‑ food waste at the end, to me the most important thing was the laughter and the jovial shouts from people being people.

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POLITI “We all work full time, there are other commitments with kids”

The forgotten orchards of York Edible York is a charity that has been operating for quite some time. It became a registered charity in 2014 and works across the city area, aiming “to make York a better place to live by running edible gardening activities and horticultural initiatives”. I speak to Ruth and Louise from the organisation about how food waste that is still edible is moved around the city and how easy it is to work with larger chains and companies. Last year they started an Edible York initiative called Abundance, through which a group of volunteers collect and redistribute fresh and, more importantly, edible apples.

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“A logistical exercise in joining the dots,” is how Ruth Jennaway first describes to me the effort that is required to make a project like Abundance work. There are plenty of people at different levels of the food disposal and redistribution chain across the city, but many aren’t as connected as they could be. There are numerous orchards from which these apples can be collected and they aim to maintain a green distribution network, keeping to cyclists, pedestrians and people who have pre-planned car trips on the delivery rota. When I speak to Louise for this piece, she happens to be collecting apples on what must be one of the last runs of the year and she hurries to get on with her job.

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Technology the saviour? For those people who are not necessarily desperate for food, but do want to save money and the planet, there are other ways to help stop edible food ending up in a landfill. You could set up your own group dedicated to helping people, or even make smaller contributions within your day-to-day life. The app Too Good to Go is one way of becoming aware of food that is available from restaurants and is going to be disposed of. Sadly in York, when you see the map pop up on your phone, there is only one restaurant on the app, Yo Sushi! This means that all of the the options are based in Leeds. As the hospitality and catering sector is responsible for around a million tonnes of edible food waste each year, according to the Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP) 2015 report, there is clearly a long way to go with this. While there may be a more

extensive network of restaurants in other cities providing this service, it remains underwhelming within the shadow of York Minster. It is clear that despite the curse of social media it is an excellent way to connect and organise people in groups. The Abundance project had an impressive boost in apple collection, over “60 crates”, as soon as it upped its presence on social media. For Hoping York Kitchen social media is essential and it has really helped to build their reach, as Lisa Price says: “We use Facebook as our platform massively.” York has now become a part of the Sustainable Food Cities Network; a group of cities recognising the importance of food in dealing with many of modern societies issues; it is perhaps the perfect time to be amping up the level of interconnectivity between volunteer and charity groups working to help people in need and fight the food waste crisis at the same time.

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“It’s worth getting the message out there” Ruth Jennaway, Edible York

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PEOPLE

Bare BOOBS

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BUMS An inside look at the rise of students turning to the adult industry for a sizeable income. Mia Wilson reports

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One third of students turn to the adult entertainment industry Leeds University

Being a student is apparently the most exciting time in a young person’s life. The booze, the nights out and the crippling debt sandwiched between an overdraft and very little income. It is a real rollercoaster. Every student’s monetary circumstances are different, whether you work hard in a part time job or get money from the bank of the parents, money is never a side thought. Not every student heads down the conventional route to earn a little more cash. Some turn to strutting their stuff on a dancefloor, while others find a little breeze to their torso never hurt anyone while serving food. Each year the government loans £16 billion to roughly one million students in England to aid study and living costs. Following the changes in 2016, where grants turned into loans, everyone who takes out their entitlement must repay the loan after they’ve graduated. An estimated 30% of students manage to repay this loan but another 70% can’t afford the repayments. This means that the number of students struggling to pay

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for their weekly food shop really isn’t a surprise. Very few students can afford a lifestyle which includes spare cash to spend at the end of every month.

“I earn £500 a week when dancing” What’s the secret to being in the very few club? The job title. By day, Ellie 20, studies English Language at the University of Sussex and by night, she dances in front of adoring men. She’s well into her third year, assignments are flooding in and there’s no sign of spare time, unless you count sitting in the library until 1am the height of spare time use. After hitting minus in her first year, she made the leap and got herself an alternative job. She gets paid £500 a week to dance in (and take off) beautiful outfits and sassy heels. This all comes part of parcel when you’re a dancer in a lap dancing club. With a

set routine of turn around, undo bra, turn back around, bra to the side, turn around, bend over and knickers off, Ellie catches the punter’s eye. It is believed that one third of UK students head to the adult industry to earn additional income to fund their studies, according to research by the University of Leeds. There is an understandable reason for this; the flexibility the industry can offer. Combatting a university timetable, a healthy social life, a paid job, assignments and sleeping more than three hours a night can really take a toll on any student. This isn’t as much of a problem for Ellie, being a dancer has given her the freedom to earn a sizeable income while juggling the busy lifestyle university chucks your way. A secure job is becoming necessary for any student’s economic wellbeing and mental health while studying. Research conducted by NUS Insight on Behalf of Future Finance, asked 2,000 students around the UK about their money concerns. They found that more than a third of UK students worry about their

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HER

KNOCKERS ARE 10/10 Ellie

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money, to the extent that 71% say their mental health is suffering. Shown by a rise in depression and anxiety diagnoses in student populations.

and physically push her chest onto a table to wipe up a spilt drink. With limited access to security when working these events, issues such as this can be common place for Emily.

However, a minimal 1% say they are comfortable with their money situation, showing how students bank accounts are truly suffering.

On the other hand, most clubs will have security measures in place, including a barred list and observant bouncers. Ellie knows “it definitely helps for us girls to know there are very tough men ready to look after you if you need it” but this hasn’t stopped men refusing to return her underwear back after she finished dancing

When she’s working an event Emily is topless

“I have had to be cautious about my spending and miss out on stuff because of needing to keep money for other things,” says Emily referring to books, food and any chance of a social life. The 19-year-old geography student at Warwick University works as a waitress during the week, but also signed up to an event company with a difference. When she’s working an event, Emily is topless. After working part-time and working topless events, she has healthy few hundred pounds to spend after paying adult necessities such as rent and bills. It’s not only the money that comes as an advantage with these jobs, Ellie feels her makeup skills have improved alongside her friendship group and confidence.

The more-than-average income and comments from customers such as “her knockers are 10/10” is enticing as Ellie earns the same amount a waitress would in one week per evening, but the unseen world of these jobs is not all glamour, sequins and killer heels. “It gets pretty painful dancing around in heels” for a night shift, as she wears a minimum of four-inch stilettos. As tiring as dancing around in heels may be, it isn’t the only alarming feature of the industry. While serving, Emily has experienced over the top customers trying to pull her pants down

The women both express that there is still a stigma around the adult entertainment industry, Emily acknowledges that people are judgmental towards her job. “It’s seen as seedy or the girls being trashy or slutty for doing it”, Ellie does feel that the stigma around strip clubs is disappearing though, due to the normality of having one on your local high-street.

“It’s seen as seedy or trashy” Despite the perceived negatives, both women love their chosen jobs and feel that their confidence has really increased. Emily, when delivering food and drinks to large groups of people “feels hot”, while Ellie has a boost in self-esteem “knowing guys will pay to see me dance for them makes me feel great”. As the positives outweigh the negatives for the both, they hope to continue their job after they’ve completed their degree.

Although topless waitressing and lap dancing might not be the most conventional job for a student, for hundreds around the country, this is their reality. With grants disappearing and loans decreasing many students dive into the world of adult entertainment to afford their everyday needs. Most of them with the attitude, why not show off what mother nature gave you? 23

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The healing campus

Converge:

PEOPLE

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Composed, Catherine Smith sits running her fingers through her brown hair, she pauses and looks up. “Sometimes the world doesn’t seem real to me, people feel like actors.”

By Molly Catterall By Molly

Catterall Coping with a mental health problem can be difficult for people within society; with one in four people affected at some point in their lives. Bombarded by the stigma and in some cases an 18 week wait for mental health services, people often don’t know who to turn to. But for many like Smith, Converge is a lifeline. Looking thankfully into my eyes she says: “I don’t think I would have been in the place I am now if it wasn’t for Converge.” Converge, based at York St. John University, was first established in 2008 by Nick Rowe after he observed the limitations within mental health services as a psychiatric nurse. Rowe felt patients were being dehumanised and limited by their options. “I wanted to provide good quality educational opportunities and courses in a university setting, for local people who use mental health services,” Rowe says, “taught by students and staff.” This provides the opportunity

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for people to learn from each other; converging everyone involved into one supportive community. The programme offers their students the chance to experiment with their ideas and creativity while gaining real world experience. Creative expression has been proven helpful in the journey of recovery to mental health, as stated by the Mental Health Foundation. Hilary Bailey, Converge office coordinator explains: “Converge allows people to discover themselves and reverse the deficit they often have faced within their lives into something beautiful again”, unlocking creativity buried deep within.

Rowe expresses how Converge aims to “challenge the dynamics of social exclusion” while helping their students access education and employment. It provides an inclusive, inspirational

environment, where respect for others and valuing yourself is encouraged. Converge has touched upon many people’s lives, with a current 142 students enrolled this academic year. Kaleigh Neath, has been involved within the Converge choir for around three years, like other students she first heard about Converge through her CPN (community psychiatric nurse). She expresses to me the importance the Converge choir has had upon her life and without it she might not be here today. Neath sat contently, as noises of passersby filled the air. Breaking the silence, she stops, pushes her glasses up her nose and speaks softly: “I have major depression and psychosis and living with these conditions can be complicated.” First diagnosed while studying for her GCSEs, Neath was admitted to hospital, “I was in denial of my condition” she says brushing a piece of hair behind her ear. “I

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Some names in this article have been changed for confidentiality reasons.

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“It’s my lifeline.

If I hadn’t found Converge I shudder to think what would have happened” Allan Rollinson

28 Photo Credit: Converge Students Artwork

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was talking to people who were not there, but in my mind, they were.” Neath describes to me how being alone was scary. “I would question what I heard… did I hear that?”. She stops, fear plastered upon her face. “Thoughts… fucking dark thoughts.” It was the constant battle of having to keep yourself safe. Smith agrees: “When you’re unwell you feel very scared and alone, when I was well I could keep it out of my mind.” Neath laughs awkwardly. “I have battled with self-harm.” But felt “surrounded by silent judges” when seeking help at hospital after harming herself.

Neath explains the difficulty of describing her experiences with mental health services who haven’t experienced it themselves.This constant rumination causes Neath to feel trapped in her own intrusive thoughts. Unlike current mental health facilities, Converge does not pressure individuals to talk about their problems. Rowe noticed that once people were diagnosed they began to lose hope for the future. “People often feel defined by their mental health.” He wanted to allow people to overcome barriers and be defined as something different from a patient. Converge communicated to Neath that “it is okay not to speak about anything going

on within your life” in a non-pressuring, non-stigmatised, relaxed environment, which relies on the individual person and not their ability. Rowe expressed to me how university is a valued place within society. Often mental health services can feel very clinical but locating Converge in a student-based environment challenges the stigma of mental health, and people’s perception. According to the Campaign to End Loneliness, over nine million people in the UK are either always or often lonely. Converge offers a friendly environment which combats this.Music has always been a part of Neath’s life and being a part of Converge choir has allowed her to form meaningful friendships, bonding over similarities and experiences. Paul Wort, a former student agrees. “Converge has brought meaning back into my life.” Wort now works at Converge to “give something back, rather than work just for money.” Neath smiles, adding: “You all are in the same boat.” She pauses.“Just being around someone who has been through something similar is enough to make you feel better.” It has been the light at the end of the tunnel. Neath expresses the difficulty of living with a mental health problem. “Sometimes it’s not being able to get out

of bed,” she says with pain. Stopping for breath she looks up and speaks softly, “Converge has allowed me to have a positive distraction, away from everything in my life.” Converge provides structure and routine. “If Converge is only thing to get you out of bed for,” Neath says.“It gives you a sense of purpose.” Rowe says when people have a sense of purpose, it gives them focus and confidence, which can lessen the chance of mental health problems developing. It has encouraged Neath to keep persevering. “My week runs from Tuesday to Tuesday,” she says hopefully. “Although the thoughts will never stop, those couple of hours really help.”

In Neath’s experience some mental health services are extremely clinical, dismissive and stamp check you. With mental services in high demand, more people are being referred to social prescribed services like Converge. Neath has always taken tablets, which has been hard to accept, but she wishes “Converge had been offered to me sooner”. Neath stops and looks down, touching her silver bracelet. “It’s about getting from one day to the next but knowing when to reach out is half the battle.” She takes a long pause “Converge has saved my life a couple of times”. She wipes tears away from her face. “I wouldn’t be who I am now if it wasn’t for Converge.”

work

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PEOPLE

HEAR HIS VOICE

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Don’t make him suffer in silence. Let’s end the stigma around male mental illness. BY AVA FARRELLY 01/02/2019 09:43:22

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The distressing yet unsurprising fact that three quarters of UK suicides recorded in 2017 alone were male suicides raises the question; why are men still struggling so much to admit when they need help?

In this day and age, the issue of poor mental health is on the tip of everyone’s tongue. It’s a problem that almost everyone has experienced, be it first-hand or through the struggles of those close to us. Mental illness seems to be a topic that a lot of us understand to a reasonable degree and are – in some capacity – comfortable discussing. We’ve never before found ourselves in a better position to reach out and lend a helping hand to those who need it. That said, we’re still far from breaking the stigma. Lee Cambule works tirelessly to raise awareness for mental health issues, hosting public talks and publishing frequent blog posts with the intention of encouraging others to open up about their problems. Male mental illness is an issue that is currently in desperate need of attention, with 12.5% of UK men having been diagnosed with common mental health disorders and suicide being named as the biggest killer of men under the age of 35. Cambule himself has suffered from depression since his early teens and has

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openly discussed his own gut-wrenchingly close encounters with suicide, which prompted his passion for helping other men who are experiencing similar difficulties. Driven by his goal of fighting the stigma that still silences so many men when they need support most, he explains that the outdated belief that defines a man’s expression of emotion as an indication of weakness and lack of masculinity remains a massive obstacle for men while trying to speak out.

emotionally is to bottle up their feelings and “just suck it up”. Cambule explains that this need to keep quiet and give off an illusion of emotional strength is a problem that men have carried with them throughout history, making them less comfortable opening up about their problems than women.

“I think a lot of the most common sources of poor mental wellbeing is about weakness. When men struggle with things like their finances or relationships, they perceive it as being a sign of weakness to talk about it and I think it’s about letting everyone know that it’s okay to have these feelings and it’s okay to feel weak sometimes.”

WEAK SOMETIMES.”

The phrase ‘man up’ is very possibly the most toxic expression used to shame men into putting on an ultra-masculine persona to mask their insecurities and hide their emotions, perpetuating the idea that the only option for men who are struggling

“IT’S ABOUT LETTING EVERYONE KNOW IT’S OKAY TO HAVE THESE FEELINGS AND IT’S OKAY TO FEEL

“A lot of it is in our DNA, I think. Men have been passed down through the ages this idea of being the breadwinner and the huntergatherer, all these very archaic ideals. It’s still trickling down through today’s society. “I speak to a lot of people in the work I do who say how difficult it was because they never imagined their own father would open up to them, or that anyone they looked up to as a role model when they were younger would feel comfortable talking about these things,” he goes on to explain.

01/02/2019 09:43:23

Gym culture can add massively to the problem, pitting men against each other in an intense and competitive environment. Explaining that this natural rivalry can often lead to body insecurity and cause a serious lack of self-esteem, Cambule says that “if they’re not always the best at something or they’re not seen to be the best looking or the most athletic, their confidence wanes and “We’re all part of the same human race. that’s when things like anxiety and depression We’re all part of a society that looks on the “There are a lot more high-profile male role image of an individual and makes judgements, can really creep in and grab hold of you”. models now. You see a lot of it in sports, for unfortunately. It does look at you and the instance. There are a lot more professional During his mission to end the silence and perception of you is based on how you look. footballers and people like that coming There’s this misconception that it’s something inspire other men to take the first steps forward about their experience. I think towards a healthier mind, Cambule has Michael Phelps is a good example, he’s talking that only women really care about, but discovered a simple but effective solution actually men are as concerned about what a lot about how depression has affected him which could potentially begin to help men other people think of them as women,” and what it did to his career.” overcome their difficulty coming forward and Cambule explains. opening up about their hardships. While problems like depression and anxiety in “You see so much on TV and in movies about males are becoming more widely recognised “Sometimes the best prompt is to know that the heroes and the good guys and they’re and accepted socially, there are still many other men are talking about it. It’s almost always the strongest and the best looking. I more which are barely considered at all like a domino effect; once one person starts think at a young age particularly that sinks when it comes to looking out for the men in talking about it, others will start opening up in very strongly for young people. It’s about our lives. The issue of body image is one we and then they feel okay to talk about it. They teaching younger boys and young men that typically associate with women, bombarded just need that one person to be the first one actually we’re all different and it’s okay with countless images of the ‘ideal’ female before they realise that it’s safe for them to to almost ignore the perfect image that’s body type and pressured by the media to represented in the media sometimes.” idolise and live up to unrealistic, ridiculously talk about how they’re feeling.” As our society moves slowly towards accepting and validating the emotions of men, Cambule praises celebrities of the 21st century for their role in bringing male mental illness to the forefront by allowing their own struggles to become publicly known, showing that even those who may seem invincible to the rest of us have their own battles to fight.

unachievable beauty standards. Thankfully, hundreds of wonderful campaigns and social media movements exist to highlight the danger of these messages and help women to love the bodies they live in – but body image insecurities among men are often still disregarded entirely.

“ONCE ONE PERSON STARTS TALKING ABOUT IT, OTHERS WILL START OPENING UP.”

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01/02/2019 09:43:31

LIFE ON THE FRONTLINE The Second World War may have ended over 70 years ago but for our veterans the battle never truly ends. By Brett Blacker.

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PEOPLE

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“When I was demobbed in York, I called in at the first church and took an oath that I would not handle another weapon, not even a child’s toy. I have kept to this oath. Using that Bren gun every night, you’re hearing the screams, the cries, you know that you are hitting people.” Despite the First World War finishing 100 years ago and 73 years after the second, the war is still raging in the minds of some veterans. Ken Smith or “Smudge” as his brothers in arms would recognise him as, served for five years as a conscript from 1943 to 1948 as an infantryman which is a soldier on the front line. During the Second World War enlisting to serve was a rarity as in most cases you were called up with a letter being posted through your letterbox. It is something that many of us would not be able to imagine. The fear of the unknown is a fear that rules all because we do not understand it, so to be called up to serve your country would be incomprehensible for most of us. Ken says that “In those days you didn’t know much about anything, I barely knew what was happening, all I was told that there was a man named Hitler and he had to be stopped.” Ken was on the front line during the biggest sea invasion in history, which saw British armed forces storm the beaches of Normandy as part of Operation Overlord on June 6th, 1944 – D-Day. “I was one of 150,000 which sounds like a lot, but when you are facing several million

opposition it’s not at all.” With D-Day being one of the most historic affairs from the war Ken says that “there is too much concentration on the day, the war went on for another 11 months in Europe. The documentaries and films that were made on it were even worse, the mistakes made we can pick out.” After all the harrowing experiences that soldiers have witnessed, it would be impossible to fully discard such events and images from the mind. “You find half a body up a tree, you’d be talking to somebody next to you and the next minute he’s gone, and you’re holding his head” Ken describes. Many veterans suffer from post-traumatic stress disorder and struggle to familiarise themselves with normal life. Ken is no different. “I didn’t adjust when I came back, I have a Remembrance Day every day of my life.” Ken’s wife Gloria, explains how difficult it has been for him throughout his life, suffering flashbacks even 70 years on. “He still has nights where he wakes up terrified shouting with his

home as most arrive back with parts of their life missing, whether it be a body part or a best friend. The war had soldiers side by side in the trenches who only a year before were side by side in a classroom. “When I go back to Normandy I always go back to Bayeux War cemetery and when you’re walking through there’s rows of names who are people I’ve gone dancing with, drinking with, trained and landed on the beaches with. I’m still here whilst they have never left Normandy,” he says. It leaves a soldier with a constant reminder that themselves and normal life will never be the same again.

arms flailing, it can be quite scary.” The physical and emotional trauma obviously follows a soldier back

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After talking war with Ken, I spoke to Gloria about what life has been like for them and how he still provides services in the community through his veteran status. A few years ago, they had discovered that York was not doing anything for Armistice Day, so they held their own event. “It was brilliant, we brought a community together, children wrote poems for the veterans, we even received television coverage from the event.” “It just didn’t feel right not to celebrate this day, veterans should always be acknowledged and remembered as we wouldn’t have our freedom without them. So, seeing everyone come to celebrate with us was special.” Gloria said. Unfortunately, not everybody shows as much respect to those who fought for our freedom. Ken has experienced extremely

distasteful gestures and blindingly ignorant remarks that have been shown towards him. Gloria tells me they had faced some men who had noticed Ken wearing his medal decorated uniform and proceeded to demonstrate the Nazi salute towards him. “It was disrespectful and horrible but there was nothing we could do about it, if the police were around we could have told them, but we had to leave it.” she says. You would think that fighting in a World War would ultimately earn you the highest level of respect from people and that soldiers would be proud to wear their uniform everywhere, however this isn’t the case. Gloria says: “He doesn’t like to show his uniform in public because he assumes people think he’s trying to show off. I tell him to leave his coat off

and be proud to wear it.” In some sense, it feels like our veterans are underappreciated in our communities with Ken saying “We don’t even get offered a cup of coffee when we hand out poppies.” I often wonder how a greater understanding and respect of what soldiers like Ken experienced and what they are still going through could be achieved. So, if you see a veteran in your local area or working in the community, take a minute to say hello and a thank you for what they did and still continue to do for us.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DEATHS AND WOUNDING OF SEVERAL THOUSAND OVER A PERIOD OF MONTHS.

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The dark truth of post university depression “49% of students admitted that their mental health wellbeing had decreased since leaving university.” “It was a strange phase, I felt like I left part of my life behind me, I felt lost for months.” Said Alan Sharif, who graduated last summer said “It’s scary how quickly everything changes, one minute you’re graduating and sharing the occasion with the friends you’ve made over the years, to suddenly finding yourself in a world where you’re under pressure to get a job, financially struggling and feel like you don’t have a social life anymore.” A study done by the City Mental Health Alliance (CMHA) announced that 49% of students admitted that their mental health wellbeing had decreased since leaving university. The studies have shown that postuniversity depressions needs to be taken more seriously. The CMHA has also stated there are more students opening up about how their life has been affected since graduating. University is a time where students are allowed the freedom to live as they please. There are no parents watching their every move, it’s a time where you can go out three times a week and it’s socially acceptable. It’s a place where eating pasta every day becomes the norm, you don’t like doing it, but you just accept it.

Liam Hough, York St John graduate said: “I spent a year feeling lost, I was so proud of myself for graduating. I had a routine, attending my lectures, going home to the best group of lads I’ve ever met. We’d have football every Wednesday, it didn’t matter if we won or lost, we just loved being together. So I decided to go back and do a masters degree. Honestly, do I want to do a masters? No. But I miss the lifestyle, so I’ve had to do it.” Furthermore, it’s not just the lifestyle that gives students the ‘graduate blues’. You spend three years working to get that degree, but the average student is £50,000 in debt. Which has been known to cause serious mental health issues, leading to personal and physical health strained. Student Minds is a charity that has been set up for students that are suffering from their mental wellbeing. They partnered up with CMHA and spoke to over 300 recent graduates, and say 49% of those surveyed said their mental well-being declined after leaving university, while 44% felt their friends were doing better than them and 40% felt socially isolated.

By Harry McCormack 38

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PEOPLE

t, I was ctures, otball being tly, do I o it.â&#x20AC;?

duate average us ned.

are MHA and ed said % felt olated.

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“It’s also important to talk”

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Furthermore, we are living in a time where social media has become one of the most used platforms in the world. The rise of Instagram has become a place where people want to show off their latest clothes, holidays, cars and so on. Many graduates will find themselves comparing their life to people of the same age. It’s easy to fall into the trap and wonder why you can’t afford the latest designer clothes, but your friend who doesn’t have a degree can. But how do graduates combat this? Psychiatrist, Melissa McCormack has recommended a few things to look out for before deciding whether to seek professional advice: Do you feel like you get enough sleep every night? Do you feel like you have a loss of an appetite the majority of the time? Do you constantly feel lethargic? “It’s also important to talk to people that may be experiencing the same thing, are the people you spent the last of university living with feeling down too? Bottling up emotions is the last thing anybody should do”, she added. University of Falmouth graduate, Milo McCormack agreed with this advice. “I had to keep in contact with the friends I made, we often arranged to meet up at least once a month, it was hard having to travel up and down the country, but that’s what weekends are for right?” He went on to add “If anything, I made sure I was constantly busy, whether that be looking at new things I could experience, or even just planning to meet my

friends. The more active my brain was, the happier I was. I learned I had a lot more freedom than I did at university. I managed to get a job working in an office - the money wasn’t the best but it was more than what I had at university. I’m looking to find my own place, maybe even somewhere close to where all my friends are. It’s tough, but you realise it only gets better”. One thing you must remember is that you’re not alone, people become depressed over many things, whether that be from heartbreak, losing a family member and so on, there is no shame about being depressed from leaving your university lifestyle, everyone has their own personal battles and it helps to talk to people to clear your mind. There are charities like Student Minds that are there to support you, so make sure you use what’s available. Milo also added: “I look back and think how much I miss being at university, but that shows me how much I loved it and how happy I am that I managed to get the opportunity to meet friends for life and experience iving in a whole new city, I know some people drop out straight away because they don’t enjoy it - so I’m happy to be able to say those three years were by far the best time of my life so far, but I have the rest of my life to look forward to”. Leaving univeristy can be the biggest, yet worst transition of your life. People have suffered from it and will continue to. Make sure you don’t fight this battle by yourself. Talk to people. Seek help.

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LL YG

LIVE

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17.

Yorkshire Museum

- YOUR GUIDE TO WHAT’S ON AND WHEN, BY HANNAH WOOD.

ARDS PLACE N O E

YORK

MUSEUM GARDENS

1. The Hop 2. Kennedy’s 3. Sotanos 4. Thomas’ of York 5. The Habit 6. Fibbers 7. The Spread Eagle 8. The Basement 9. The Golden Ball 10. The Nook 11. The Fossgate Social 12. Jalou 13. The Nags Head 14. Spark 15. The Golden Fleece 16. The Red Lion 17. Eagle and Child 18. Evil Eye 19. Stone Roses Bar 20. The Drawing Board

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BAKES & CO. Bakes & Co Gillygate is a family owned cafe which, against the odds, has elegantly survived its first two years on one of Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s busiest streets. Hannah Wood reports

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ARTS AND CULTURE

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“IT’S JUST SO HEAD- DOWN ARSE- UP REALLY” The independent cafe, slightly set back from the hustle and bustle of York city centre, has been meeting the freshly baked culinary needs of York’s residents since September 2016. I spoke to owner and cake lover Liz Bakes (yes, that genuinely is her surname) about her ethos, struggles and overall success story of her first two years on Gillygate. Our conversation begins mid-carrot cake production, a best seller in Liz’s repertoire, it was apparent she could knock up a batch with her eyes shut. I was perching in the corner of the kitchen and begun peeling back the layers to learn more about Liz herself, initially I wanted to know why she decided to build Bakes & Co as a business. “I thought if I don’t do it now, because I started it when I was 50, I thought I won’t ever do it.” Launching Bakes & Co was a leap of faith for Liz, turning her back on social work was a huge risk, but thanks to her drive to succeed, it was a risk that has certainly paid off. As opposed to searching for the perfect place to build her own cafe, it was the address of Bakes and Co that made Liz’s mind up itself. “When we first moved to York this was the first place we went into and we

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loved it, we loved the feel of it and I said to my husband then, if that ever came up wouldn’t it be great if we could do something with it and it just did, it just suddenly came up.” 82 Gillygate was then suddenly firmly in Liz’s hands and she was poised to sculpt her very own wholesome cafe and expose her extensive recipe book to the people of York. “I’ve always loved good food, and it really used to annoy me if I’d gone out to eat and I got low standard food.” It’s instantly obvious that Liz is conscious about using local produce in her bakes, as well as selling local fresh bread, eggs and milk in-store. The in-house coffee at Bakes is Roost coffee, sourced in Malton a mere 18 miles away and, again, this is available to purchase in-store. One thing I was keen to discuss with Liz was whether she felt it was essential to stay ‘ontrend’ with the goods she was offering, or can you not beat the classics? “It would be arrogant to say I’m not going along with the swings and changes of what’s going on, you need that in the back of your mind but I think you need to be very secure about when you started out, what your goal was and what you’re trying to deliver to the customers.”

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think you have to stick

with what your unique selling point is, which mine was home baking, that tastes of something because it has quality ingredients.â&#x20AC;?

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Liz’s selling point and the ethos of Bakes & Co is simply to provide wholesome home cooked food, whether that’s containing meat, a vegetarian dish or a vegan option. Liz explained that these factors are not at the forefront of her mind when creating a new dish or nibble to add onto her menu, she prioritises tastiness over anything else! Although, of course dietary requirements are still more than catered for at Bakes, the most popular being vegan bhajis and falafel, and there’s always the option to substitute your regular milk for oat, soya or almond. “I think you have to stick with what your unique selling point is, which mine was home baking, that tastes of something because it has quality ingredients.” Location location location. I decided to ask Liz whether after two years of being situated at 82 Gillygate, would she rather be based more towards the centre of York? “I would prefer to be in town because I know I’d be busy all the time, whereas this is very much dependent on, or a lot depends on when the students are around.”

city centre could be on the cards for Bakes & Co. “Now that I’ve got the first 2 years under my belt, I’m feeling as though I’ve got a bit more time and headspace to start thinking about that.” A third of businesses fail before reaching the two-year mark, usually due to poor budgeting and organisation, so for Liz the fact that her business is performing better than ever, is a huge achievement. Although, Liz does admit that she often fails to recognise her own success as she describes her newly-formed baking world ‘it’s just so head-down arse-up really’. Finally, I wanted to discuss social media with Liz, something that has developed hugely in the latest generation and it’s something the she herself admitted she struggled to keep up with.

Bakes & Co offers 10% discount to all students, university staff and NHS employees, as Liz picks up a huge amount of business from York St John University. So much so, a sign outside the Bakes & Co entrance reads ‘Keeping students alive since 2016’, as not only is the food homely and delicious, all of the staff provide a friendly face and are always up for a chat alongside your tea and cake!

‘I think in this day and age it’s absolutely crucial. It’s a lot of energy initially to do it, of which I guess I didn’t have. I would say my customer base has been word of mouth which has been great because its grown organically; It’s maybe a slower growth than doing the Instagram and social media.’ Liz has passed on the social media baton to her younger members of staff who have successfully managed to create a daily, vibrant Instagram account with almost 300 followers (@bakesandco). Social media also gives Bakes & Co a chance to collaborate with other local businesses and organisations such as York’s Fifth Quarter, a group used to promote all the independent businesses in the Bakes & Co area.

“I think if I got the choice could I move into the town centre I would, but I’m tied into this now so I’m working with what I’ve got.” To me, Liz portrays a woman who is striving for more, whether she’s busy performing 10 tasks at once, she thinks she could be busier, so much so, an expansion in to the

Bakes & Co is open and looks forward to welcoming you, 8:00-16:30 Monday – Thursday, 8:00-5:00 Fridays, 9:005:00 Saturdays and 11:00-4:00 Sundays, when you fancy some high quality, delicious treats from one of York’s leading independent coffee shops. 49

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1,000 YEARS OF HISTORY. ONE CITY.

ARTS AND CULTURE

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GEORGIE REID EXPLORES THE CITY OF YORK, INVESTIGATING THE SIGHTS AND STORIES OF THE GATEWAY TO THE NORTH.

Images: andyspictures @ Flickr

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“The History of York is the History of England”

- King George VI

Modern day York is a quirky amalgamation of the epoques which helped to shape it. Its architecture is a weird and wonderful patchwork of 13th century pubs alongside 17th century townhouses. Old cobbled streets are built over the original roman roads of Eboracum. Stories of ghosts, viking raids, holy monks and princesses journeying north to marry all blend into every day life in the sleepy city. This rich history has led to it being one of the most popular tourist destinations in the north of England. Much of York’s energy is poured into its somewhat hectic nightlife. With pub for every day of the year within its 2.5 mile-long city walls, it’s not difficult to see why it is a city renowned for its drinking experience. Ted Weston worked as a bartender at one of the city’s oldest pubs, the Red Lion. Situated on Merchantgate, it still sports traditional 16th-century English architecture, using the black and white technique known as wattle-and-daub, which is a common theme throughout the city. Thick, dark timber beams inside and out, with two grand fire places each with its own tiny priest-hole. Weston claimed these were to harbour fugitives, mostly catholic priests during Elizabethan times, but is famously rumoured to have also housed highwayman Dick Turpin, who had been friends with the pub’s landlord. Weston shared his experience of operating within York’s most famous industry. “It’s full of surprises,” he said. “Every so often you’d find yourself talking to a customer who could talk for hours about things you never even knew about the building you’d been working in for a year.” “You do spend a lot of time disputing ghost stories in a building this age though,” he added with a chuckle.

An example of wattle-and-daub.

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Haunted or not, York’s pubs are definitely the best place to start when exploring the city. Whether you like a traditional pint at the Blue Bell or a classy cocktail and the Botanist, there is something for everyone. Little remains of St Mary’s Abbey; it stands almost sadly on the banks of the River Ouse, only one of its great walls remaining. The ruins compellingly link two of England’s most famous eras of history. Built in 1088, it was a symbol of Norman might at a time when William the Conqueror, growing old and reaching the end of a fantastical reign, was attempting to solidify the crown’s power in the North to make way for his heirs. According to York Museum’s Trust, the abbey operated as “one of the wealthiest and most powerful monasteries” in the country until Henry VIII had it dissolved in 1539 after his dramatic split from Catholicism. In essence, it was both built and destroyed by kings asserting their dominance at times of political upheaval. The abbey’s remains are still a wonderful visit if you have a strong imagination. The foundations of its wonderful stone pillars and walls are still visible, giving visitors almost a blueprint of how the building used to look. Museum Gardens, where St Mary’s once stood, is a site rich in history. It houses the Multangular Tower, some fine remains of the original Roman fortress of Eboracum, and several original roman coffins, all made of stone. Nearby is the Hospitium, a wattle-and-

daub building which was built with St Mary’s, to house guests who were not members of the clergy (as these people would not have been allowed to stay in the main Abbey). The Yorkshire Museum, the large building in the middle of the gardens with the Greek-style pillars, was built in 1830, and was one of the first purpose-built museums in the country. Today it offers exhibitions on palaeontology and archaeology, with a dinosaur exhibition being opened by broadcaster David Attenborough in 2018. While Museum Gardens is perhaps one of York’s largest attractions, the city also hosts smaller, lesser known curiosities; its cats. “If you wander around the town you might notice little black cat statues dotted around on top of the buildings,” Isabella Griffin told The Yorkie. A recent History graduate from the University of York, Griffin chose undoubtedly the best city in the country to do a history degree in. Adorning the walls, window ledges, and roofs with small models of cats has apparently been a tradition in York since before the 1800s, some even believe since medieval times. The statues that can be seen today were commissioned in the 1980s to embrace the city’s feline tradition, and although they are nowhere near as ancient as the haunting priest holes in the central pubs, they’re still very special to the citizens of York. They have their own trail for tourists to spot them, and local shop York Glass offer small Murano figures the shapes of cats as good luck charms.

“Cats have always played quite a role in York’s history with regards to superstition,” Griffin added. “[The statues] have taken on more meaning over time, and are believed by some to ward off evil spirits.” Would it be fair to write about the history of York without considering one of the world’s most famous streets? No, it isn’t Diagon Alley, although it was the inspiration for the quirky magical street for Harry Potter’s set designers. Butchers have always had a presence in The Shambles (derived from the Anglo-Saxon word fleshammels [literally “flesh shelves”]). Today, you can still see the meat hooks and wide windowsills where meat would have been displayed. Harry Potter fans seem to be gradually claiming the street, with three merchandise shops and the Potions Cauldron, who sell speciality magical drinks in the style of an ancient apothecary. Interestingly, the building which now houses the Potions Cauldron was the home of the Shambles’ most beloved saint, Margaret Clitherow, whose shrine is just just across the way. Clitherow was executed aged 30 and pregnant with her fourth child, after a long history of arrests for refusing to attend church. Her final offence was harbouring Catholic priests. Clitherow is just one stain on York’s wonderful but bloody history. Those first Roman settlers are linked to the modern day pub-goer through this brilliant past.

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YORK HAS WOK A walled city boasting characterful history with connotations of Vikings, steam trains and the Minster. This will always be the city’s charm; but in a city which has resisted the 21st century all its life, it has finally been injected with some effervescence.

York may not always appear as bustling as it really is, with some of the best places tucked away down side streets. With names still to reach tourists ears, here are some of York’s hidden gems not to miss out on:

Skosh The birth of this contemporary masterpiece is all thanks to the exciting culinary creations of Neil Bentinck. Taken from the Japanese ‘sukoshi’ for ‘a small amount’, Skosh presents flavours of Japan and the Middle East in the form of genius small plates. Everyone should have this informal dining experience of ambitious dishes without the price tag. Heston Blumenthal style without the obnoxious, over-complication. For food of this standard I was in disbelief of the cost and wanted to explore what Bentinck’s inspiration was behind something York has never seen before.

“The inspiration came from my Indian heritage and travelling through Malasia, Singapore and Thailand. I just love fresh, spicy food. If I am going to open a restaurant I want it to be relaxed and fun and should be food which I want to eat as well. That’s why I love to cook: to bring lots of different flavours to the city.” £16 is the restaurant’s highest price right now, so you can still try many things without you having to break the bank.

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OKEN UP

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“The quality of the ingredients have to be exceptional as a lot of produce is served raw. We have some wild venison loin, hand dived scallops in the shells which are still alive and some live oysters on at the moment. It is all about knowing your suppliers. Lots of wild fish we take off the bone and serve raw which comes in fresh everyday.” Skosh change dishes every so often depending on what is coming in and out of season, some stay on for a while and others get tweaked. What is so exceptional, is the bespoke experience created for each diner. I sit in awe watching the chefs preparing my food, bringing dishes out in a logical order. Blessing my palate with gentle flavours, then a spark of tang or spice thrown in between courses to keep the taste buds dancing for more; then concluding on the richer side of the menu. Neil describes this as feeling like you have designed your own personal menu. The staff will pair dishes you choose to compliment each other. The wine list is tiny. To act as Bentinck’s ‘quality control’, the wines are all good and the key point is that they are all served by the glass.

“If someone wants eight different dishes, they can have say four glasses of wine to try with them so the food can be paired with the wine. It is the whole experience, as soon as you walk through the door to when you leave that people will remember.” There is also a leather bound journal which has a lot more expensive wines and champagnes if people want something a little more exclusive. The clever combinations of nutty cheese, fiery curry tones, gentle herb, sweet onion and melt-in-the-mouth meats with tart pineapple erupting in my mouth will not be forgotten. Outstanding meal.

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Bora Bora Bar

Valhalla

Pairings

This bar could not be any more random. Ambling around the cobbled streets of Swinegate to find a vibrant cocktail bar through a hidden cut. Situated next to the popular Lucia restaurant, playing cheerful music on an evening and serving ‘York’s best cocktails’ either under £5 or in jugs for £17.95. A fun, cheap, mediterranean place for a few outside drinks or a dance inside. Worth a visit.

“Where heroes drink and dine.” There is nowhere more appropriate to immerse yourself in York’s Viking history than here. Hidden down the historic Shambles, is this Viking themed bar with fitting decor and animal skin throws. Originating from ‘Valhöll’ in old Norse, meaning the hall of the slain; Valhalla transports you to a traditional Viking pub serving IPA by Yorkshire Heart Brewery cask ales, hot drinks and of course ‘the drink of the Gods’: mead. A fantastic range of meat and bread platters are available too.

Tucked away down Castlegate, lies York’s special little wine and cheese board haven. Created by sisters Kate and Kelly as a place that they themselves would feel comfortable drinking and a venue that could one day be known for introducing people to wine education in an accessible and unpretentious way. The sisters chose Castlegate as the perfect area that was easily accessible but not frequented by stags, hens and noisy parties. It retains a comfortable atmosphere and definitely has the feeling of a hidden secret.

Spark: York (new york) This really is the ‘new York’ aspect of the city, located in a neglected area of York, Piccadilly; this unique village of enterprises is made out of shipping containers. This may not sound appealing, however; whatever food desires you may have, your cravings can be satisfied here which is really quite outstanding. Clucking Oinks have a recipe for the perfect fried chicken and Spark York is blessed to have these eccentric burgers made there. There are also two bars. While diving into a crepe, burger, Thai food or salad there is often music events on too, and a range of unusual vintage clothing shops. All made out of shipping containers!

Ambiente Tapas The best tapas menu in York. Ambiente have opened two branches in Fossgate and Goodramgate due to it’s popularity. The quaint location provides a warm, intimate ambience as spanish guitarist songs are played throughout. The menu not only serves classic tapas to a high standard of presentation and quality but it has an ambitious range of other options such as ‘Pulpo A La Gallega’—slices of octopus served in the traditional way on a bed of confit potatoes. A flexible and exciting menu which offers a bespoke experience.

“They got the idea from an amalgamation of their favourite wine bars, restaurants and places that they frequented and enjoyed. Like most great venues, it’s a collage of a whole host of influences! Kate provides business acumen, Kelly brings wine knowledge and professionalism of service; they both complement each other’s strengths and weaknesses and are a really dynamic team.” Says James Hallam, general manager. The flexible menu caters for any level of wine and cheese expertise; offering the option to have top quality plates of Iberico ham to enjoy over a glass of wine. Simply choose a platter or select your own ingredients from the excellent cheese and meats menu. Smoked duck breast, award winning cheeses and a wine connoisseurs heaven; this menu can be slightly overwhelming in terms of what to choose. Boards range from £11 to £22 which feed minimum two people. Another place of good value. “It’s simple in style but very high quality cheese boards, charcuterie, salads, desserts done incredibly well, with passionate staff who can advise when you’re unsure, or suggest things that you would never have even thought of. We have the nicest cheese you’ll have ever tried; and some of the most unique food and wine pairings too. Come in and ask for Delice De Cremier, or Tokaji, blue cheese and honey. Ask our staff for something surprising and find out for yourselves!”

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YO MUSIC 60

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ARTS AND CULTURE

York is a pretty idyllic place to live with plenty of things to see and do, but is it lacking a live music venue? By Isabelle Blexill

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“

I THINK SOMEWHERE WITH A CAPACITY OF AROUND 3,500 PEOPLE WOULD BE IDEAL FOR YORK, I WOULDN’T WANT A LARGE VENUE TO TAKE PEOPLES ATTRACTION AWAY FROM LOCAL BANDS TOO MUCH

“

People of York have to travel to different cities such as Hull and Leeds in order to see their favourite bands as York doesn’t have a venue with the capacity to accommodate large artists. Connor Newman, music lover, said that he believes York should have an arena that would allow him to see his favourite band in the city where he lives. “I do think that the music venues we have in

York are good for local bands, but I usually have to travel to Leeds or Manchester to see my favourite band – The Killers. I think it would really benefit York to have a live music arena somewhere because it would bring even more tourists to the city…Who doesn’t love live music?”

built in York and is set to be completed in 2019. The Leisure complex will house an 8,000 seater stadium for York City FC and York City Knights RLFC, a new IMAX cinema and a community hub. The community centre has the potential to host live music events as well as sporting and leisure events.

A Community Stadium is currently being

“WHO DOESNT LOVE LIVE MUSIC?” There are many small venues such as The Basement, Fibbers and Fulford Arms but some may argue that York is in need of a larger music venue to attract more bands. Dave, the manager of The Basement, thinks that York has a good amount of music venues with various capacities. “I think we’re well covered, and the fact York is so close to Leeds will probably always effect bands touring schedules”.

There are lot of events happening at The Basement in the upcoming weeks such as: - The Velma Celli Show- 8th December - Christmas Carol: Office 9th, 11th, 12th and 13th December - Andrew O’Niell 10th December Fibbers is one of the main live music venues in York with various different artists from all over the world coming to play for the locals. Lee Scratch Perry is one of many artists who are performing at Fibbers along

with Lost Society and Glass Caves. With huge bands such as The Courteeners and The Pigeon Detectives having played there in the past, it’s no surprise that Fibbers has such a legendary reputation. Hull’s Bonus Arena has recently opened its doors to the public and has lots of exciting acts lined up for everyone to enjoy. Catfish and the Bottlemen, Peter Andre and Olly Murs are ust a few among many who are scheduled to play there within the next year.

Lee Scratch Perry is set to play at Fibbers 22nd March 2019. Photo credit: Fibbers: Live Music Venue 62

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“

I THINK YORK IS KINDA NAILING IT AT THE MOMENT

Local artists may not share the thought that a larger music venue would be what is best for York.

THE HOWL AND THE HUM The Howl & The Hum are a York based band who started out by performing at open mic nights in pubs around the city. Their lead singer, Sam, doesn’t believe that the city is in need of a larger live music venue due to the arenas available in neighbouring cities. “Because York is a smaller city with a higher tourist population than those places - it means the independent venues like The Crescent and the Fulford Arms can thrive while not having to fend off competition from Academy-sized venues which serve shite beers for shite prices and usually have equally shite sound. I think sometimes we have to take a step back and appreciate what we’ve got, especially because despite the size and capacity of the venues we’ve got in York, there is more than a small effort being made to make those gig experiences all the more rewarding”. Sam then went on to tell me more about why he doesn’t think York needs a venue with a larger capacity. “I think York is kinda nailing it at the moment. If there are ‘Academy-sized bands’ playing then there’s Leeds or Manchester to see them, and a lot of touring bands probably wouldn’t schedule York in simply because it’s between Leeds and Hull and those places have got sufficiently sized venues as it is. York has its place in the nationwide venue scene, it’s just a smaller one than Leeds (massive and studenty) and Hull (city of culture!!!)”.

The Howl and The Hum Photo credit: Andy Little Sam also thinks that York is somewhere that offers a lot of opportunities to musicians. “The Fulford Arms and the Crescent are the venues that immediately spring to mind, but then of course you’ve got the legendary Fibbers (when they’re not putting on Oasish), the Grand Opera House and the Barbican for the larger gigs (Wolf Alice, Richard Thompson), and various working men’s clubs and pubs that have surprisingly good PAs and better atmospheres than any gigs I’ve seen at the O2 in Leeds. The South Bank Social Club, for example, houses the Young Thugs record label who are going

from strength to strength, and places like the Spread Eagle and the Woolpack have reputations for putting on class nights for new artists”. The Howl & The Hum singer said that if it wasn’t for open mic nights and more intimate gigs they wouldn’t have come across so many different artists and a variety of genres. “We wouldn’t be anywhere if we hadn’t learned from everyone we met”.

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AMBER WARREN Local artist Amber Warren agrees that York doesn’t need a larger music venue because “it’s a very small city that thrives off acts playing small and intimate shows in small venues and bars”. However, she doesn’t think that there are many opportunuities for upcoming artists in York but says “the surrounding cities kinda make up for it”.

“YORK DOESN’T NEED A LARGER MUSIC VENUE. LEEDS IS NOT FAR AWAY AND IT HAS A LOT OF LARGER VENUES”.

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“

This is Cornelius’ story. His words. His feelings. I have tried, as best as possible, to listen and empathize and understand Cornelius’ very unique life story.

When Damilola Taylor, a 10-year-old British student, was tragically stabbed and killed by a youth gang in North Peckham, the nation shook. Cornelius Walker, a 10-year-old boy who lived in the immediate area, would find his life drastically changed. Worried for her son’s wellbeing, Walker’s mother decided to move the family unknowingly to predominantly white majority housing estate in Essex. Living in a foreign, hostile environment would prove to be painful and dehumanising. Forced into a false identity, Walker changed his appearance - wearing blue contacts, changing his voice and bleaching his own skin, trying desperately to fit in with a group that despised his race. This is where Black Sheep’s story unfurls…

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ARTS AND CULTURE

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BLACK L

aying claim to a host of awards, including the Aesthetica Short Film Fesitval’s best of fest and best documentary in November, the short has been well received since its release this year. Touring the country at various festivals and picking up a few awards along the way, the Grierson award winning director Ed Perkins spoke to the Yorkie about the success of his short so far: “It has been an immense privilege to win three awards ay ASFF this year. Aesthetica is an outstanding film festival and it means an enormous amount to us all that Cornelius’ story has resonated so strongly with audiences and juries here.”

“We decided to go back to the actual town where the events happened and cast real people who lived in the area to re-create key moments from the story.” Perkins spoke of his decision to produce the short film with Walker after he had reached out to him regarding the film industry, the two sat down over a coffee, where they discussed Walker’s career and his personal life. “As a documentary filmmaker you are always looking out for interesting stories, and the very best stories often come from the most unexpected places. Cornelius and I met, and after talking a bit about the industry I asked him a bit about his own life. 68

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And with all the charisma and elegance and bravery that you see in the film, Cornelius told me about his extraordinary life story. He just blew me away.” The inclusion of Walker’s monologue drives the story, drawing from his own past experiences, convincingly presenting his past to the audience and adding a level of depth to the short film that it would have gravely missed without. Drawing from Walker’s real-life experiences, Perkins felt it was necessary to keep the focus on realism and an accurate narrative. Poised as a talking head documentary/drama, the production team employed a rare technique when dealing with actors. Casting only one real performer. “We decided to go back to the actual town where the events happened and cast real people who lived in the area to re-create key moments from the story. Other than one actor (Kai Francis-Lewis) in the role of younger Cornelius, everyone else were essentially non-actors. The scenes are not scripted or rehearsed. They are loose, fragmented imaginings of the events Cornelius describes in his interview. We did not tell the actor playing young Cornelius what performance to give. We simply put him in various situations that were as ‘real’ as possible and observed his reaction just as we might do when filming traditional vérité documentary.” Perkins described his own career in film to date, exploring his involvement in both feature length and short film. Expanding on this, he details his repertoire which includes his work on the ‘making of’ featurettes for the award winning features Searching for the Sugar Man and The Imposter. Perkins has an impressive haul of accolades for such a young director.

“My career to date has actually been a bit back to front. Traditionally you might make a short film first and then move on to making a feature length film but I - through youthful naiveté as much as anything - actually made a feature length documentary first (a film called Garnet’s Gold)… since then I’ve also made a series for TV called Bare Knuckle Fight Club and am currently in production on my second feature length documentary. So, its lovely to be jumping from short form to long form and back again! And I feel immensely lucky to be collaborating with producer Simon Chinn and the amazing team at Lightbox on all these projects.” Speaking on the back of his success, Perkins developed further by commenting on his compendium of works and explains the level of gratitude he feels towards the stories and the people he regularly comes across. “I think I’m proud of all the projects I’ve been involved in for different reasons, but much more than pride I feel a strong sense of gratitude that people have allowed me into their lives and trusted me with their stories. What we do as documentary filmmakers is a huge privilege, it really is. And it is all about trust.”

“Other than one actor (Kai Francis-Lewis) in the role of younger Cornelius, everyone else were essentially non-actors.”

By Daniel Carter

01/02/2019 09:44:21

SHEEP â&#x20AC;&#x153;Without extraordinary people like Cornelius finding the bravery to sit in front of camera and tell their stories, we as documentary filmmakers have nothing.â&#x20AC;? 69

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FASHION

YORKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

GROWING VINTAGE FASHION

SCENE BY PAISLEY CHALK

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THE VINTAGE COMEBACK

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THE POWER OF VINTAGE

From Coney Street to Coppergate, is York’s well known high street slowly taking a vintage turn? To grasp an understanding of the growing vintage fashion scene, Gabriel Whalley a 19 year old retail worker at York Coppergates Topman store, knows his stuff about the vintage world, giving us an insight on Blue Rinse vintage fashion which has recently made a statement in Topman stores. Gabriel is also giving advice on the best vintage stores to shop at in York. If you are interested in finding out more on some valiant, vintage visions then get ready to have your mind opened wider to some eye opening vintage shops in the small City Of York. Blue rinse was first established in Yorkshire in 1997 and this vintage company is now one of the largest vintage wholesalers in the UK. The main value of Blue Rinse is to be a vintage, used, recycled and lastly, reworked clothing company with an ethical and forward thinking approach to business. The main stores are located in Manchester and Leeds, however Topman in York now has it’s own handy section. ‘’The Blue Rinse stores are bursting at the seams, with handpicked gems from all around the world,’’ Gabriel remarks. Topman isn’t the only store that stocks Blue Rinse, Urban Outfitters stores across Europe have a ‘Re-made in England’ range. For those who are largely interested in Blue Rinse, an online large store is easily accessible on EBay. Thus the market will always be provided for, whether this be someone looking to sell vintage items further on, a multinational retailer like Topman, or just someone who’s looking to extend their collection, Blue Rinse has an item suitable for everybody. York Coppergates Topman first launched the range in 2018, Gabriel stated that it is currently on the rise in Yorks Topman store and is selling exceptionally better than predicted. ‘’Although Topman York provide an excellent range of clothing for local shoppers, the closest independent Blue Rinse store is situated Leeds centre.’’

’’

‘‘We have something for everybody.

Gabriel made a confident point that ‘’You can literally get your hands on anything in the Leeds store, it’s a place of wonder some would say,’’adding that York’s store can still provide a variation of suitable vintage pieces. 72

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THE POWER OF GUIDANCE Gabriel Whalley, merchandiser of Blue Rinse. *Expressions* 12 Walmgate- ‘’Their clothes are a lot more affordable, they also always have a heap ton of stock, so it’s likely you’ll find what you’re looking for in Expressions without doubt.’’ Gabriel advises Perhaps you’re a student looking to pimp out your wardrobe in a less expensive way and get more for your money when the next student loan drops? You should certainly make your down to Walmgate and check out some hot bargains. *Chinese Laundry* 51 Goodramgate- Gabriel laughed ‘’This is pretty much your safest bet for absolutely everything, and is one of the first vintage stores I started shopping at, but don’t forget to check out Blue Rinse Topman for greatly priced affordable vintage pieces.’’ The location of each of these shops is particularly handy, whether you already live in York, have just moved to the city or visiting the city as a tourist, these shops are all based in the centre where the heart of York’s shopping is situated, therefore you are unlikely to struggle finding these hidden gems, and are guaranteed to enjoy your vintage hunting. Gabriel expressed that the vintage stand located in Topman is somewhat a hidden gem. By all means the clothing is still selling well, but ‘’it is not yet getting the attention it yet deserves.’’ He explains that this is may be due to the fact that many locals are still very oblivious to the Blue Rinse launch. But every week new pieces are always getting sent in and they are certainly not to be missed due to these being one-off items which could be exactly what you are looking for. Many women now also purchase Blue Rinse items from Topman, increasingly driving more sales showing the real popularity and high demand for vintage pieces. Gabriel is massively keen in regards to the large rise of York’s vintage fashion scene, therefore he agrees to share his top tips when on the search for vintage pieces, saying that he finds that the locals especially don’t look hard enough for vintage pieces and presume that the shops are all high-street without looking any further. Gabriel goes on to share with us his favourite vintage fashion shops in York which you shouldn’t miss out on, and should definitely visit if you are on the hunt for special vintage pieces. *Dog And Bone Vintage* 28 Castlegate- ‘’A pretty good vintage store, which always has a variety of cool stuff in terms of clothing, they are also always selling other goodies, such as board games and even household items that are pretty edgy!’’ Gabriel remarked. He also states that although this is one of his go-to vintage shops. If you are a student this shop is more along the pricey side, but the products sold are always a great standard of quality and you will be buying clothes and any other items which will last you for a very long time. So if you’re looking for that special statement vintage piece to show off, this may be the route for you.

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Gabriel states that he prefers to shop in city centres as he gets to try the clothes on in store, rather than using the option of browsing online, as the luxury of ‘try before you buy’ is taken away. Gabriel says this takes away disappointment for when clothes bought online arrive and are not satisfactory to the needs of the buyer. Gabriel remarks that York can be a hard place to shop if you don’t quite know what pieces you are searching for. Now you are aware of the hidden vintage gems Of York and the new introduction of Blue rinse, you can confidently check out and weigh up your vintage options and help the rise of vintage fashion commence. 73

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100%

HUMAN Everyone’s idea of style is different – whether yours is simple, edgy, eccentric or chic. Not only does who you are influence your style, but your style also influences who you are as a person. Beth Grice took a wander around the city to see your style habits and how they make you, you.

By Beth Grice Jay’s style is something that never fails to get attention – whether that be her favourite cable knit striped jumper or one of her many pairs of patterned trousers. It’s not just the clothes she wears that turn heads, her bold accessories and makeup make her someone to remember.

I’m mostly inspired by my mood – sometimes, I’m feeling bolder colours and patterns or sometimes a more relaxed, chilled black and white kind of aesthetic. The seasons also inspire me, whether it’s autumn or winter when I can layer up or summer where I go for something more simplistic like a playsuit. I don’t think I have a specific role model when it comes to fashion. I think my fashion is a bit of everything. I get most of my inspiration from

my friends and through social media, choosing different aspects of people’s looks that I think could work for me. When looking for clothes, I tend to go to somewhere like ASOS for unique pieces and branded clothes at outlet prices. That being said, I adore pre loved clothing - about 50% of my wardrobe is vintage or from a charity shop. With a quick wash and the right outfit, anything from a charity shop can be amazing.

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Joe’s style is inspired by everything classic – from the pieces he inherited as a teenager to the newer treasures he has collected in York. The more character the better, for years Joe has had a love for everything with a unique and vintage edge.

I think I got lucky with my fashion sense as it was kind of inherited along with the clothes. Back when I was 15 I was given a pair of brown leather cowboyboots, a brown leather jacket, and I discovered that under my long hair, I’d accidentally grown a comically massive pair of sideburns. The combination of the lot formed my first aesthetic. I’ll be honest - I don’t get out much, and I don’t have the money to slosh around on new clothes so I’m not really a

frequent shopper. However there is one place in particular, Bowlers on Fossgate. They sell a fusion of genuine and pseudo vintage gear there and if you can afford it, it’s worthwhile. In terms of my style, I’d describe it as eclectic. I reckon my favourite item of clothing has to be my vintage Levi Strauss denim jacket. Fashionable is all well and good, but clothes have to be practical too. So many people seem to strive for perfect and I just don’t think that can exist.

Anna’s fashion is always changing – some days she prefers a cute and casual style and some she’d rather go for a more daring bolder vibe. Her style reflects her personality, whether she’s feeling fun and wanting to express herself or needing something more comfortable for a chilled out mood.

I like how Bella Hadid experiments with her style and how confident she is with her fashion. I also take inspiration from the 80s and 90s eras but most of the inspiration for my fashion sense comes from going into shops and trying on lots of clothes to see what looks best on me. My favourite item of clothing is my ‘show your pride’ t-shirt because it’s colourful, comfy and over-sized. It also shows my support for Pride,

as well as showing my own pride in myself about my own preferences. I think my style is practical and reflects whatever trend I happen to like at the time. I also like to layer my clothes, which is typically what I base my outfit on. However, when I go on a night out, I change my style because it’s more of an opportunity to express myself compared with my everyday environment.

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Born and bred in Hull, Connor’s style is both functional and fun. His use of bold colours in simplistic styles makes his wardrobe interchangeable and effortless. Inspired by childhood icons, his style could be considered to be a youthful take on modern day men’s fashion.

I’d describe my style as Pokemon trainer on a budget because I always thought they look pretty swanky on the games. I did adapt it a little bit though so I wouldn’t look so crazy. I do have one rule which is that I can’t wear a t-shirt that’s darker than my jeans - I’m not sure why I don’t like it but I just don’t. Often, I go for something red because, in my opinion, it’s bright but not so bright; I am trying to lay

off the colour a little though. Honestly, at one point I felt like I couldn’t leave the house without something red on.It’s usually the price tag that determines my fashion sense. I would much rather spend my money on enjoying or feeding myself but I will splash out every now and again. I almost exclusively shop at Primark because of affordability but I do go to TopMan and Zara on occasion.

Abi’s fashion is inspired by one of her greatest loves – pop culture. Her geek chic style features funky t-shirts and stylish prints which never fail to catch people’s eye. From her favourite vintage Star Wars t-shirt, to one of the many pieces she’s picked up in the vintage stores, it always looks just right.

I tend not to follow current trends. When I shop, I tend to go without anything particular in mind and if something catches my eye straight away, then I tend to go for that. I tend to wear a lot of band, movie and comic book themed T-shirts as they’re a big part of my identity. I order from Red Bubble a lot which is a site where people sell their own designs on T-shirts. Every time

I order something, it’s always a little different so it always gets a lot of compliments.I’m shamelessly a huge fan of second hand clothing; I love to go for the day to Manchester to look around all of the vintage stores but I’m also a huge fan of charity shops. One thing that confuses me is how people look down on shopping in a charity shop but vintage stores are extremely popular at the moment. 77

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FAST FASHION

Fast fashion is becoming more and more popular as the demand for garments increases. With social media displaying thousands of images of celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Rihanna and their outfits, which feature designer pieces. They hold a lot of power in influencing consumers. With that being said, Fendi and Dior is not affordable for the everyday purchaser, which is where fast fashion comes in. Some of the high street’s leading brands are among the big names which reportedly source and create garments through methods using fast fashion. Although fast fashion is convenient, campaigners say the garments are often poor-quality, constructed from cheap fabrics and the working conditions in the factories are often poor and dangerous for

By Grace Lansbury

the workers. I chatted to assistant account manager of Kotn, Abby Bamburg about sustainable fashion and the importance of proper working conditions for their workers. Kotn is a ethically focused fashion brand which is based in New York founded by Mackenzie Yeates, Rami Helali and cofounder Benjamin Sehl. The three friends pride themselves on producing reasonably priced, ethically sourced Egyptian cotton items. “We first set out to make a better T-shirt—and when we did that, we started to see that the status quo of the garment industry really did mean choosing between price, quality, and ethics.” Kotn started in 2014 and the team quickly began to realise how many inconsistencies

and bad practices lie within the fashion industry — and set out to change this. Communication between the brand and the workers is of utmost importance to Kotn. To ensure that the workers are treated fairly, with respect and are not exploited for their labour, they work in close proximity with the supplier. “We work directly with every step of our supply chain, from farm to hanger, to ensure best practices, above fair pay, and ethical treatment along the way,” Bamburg says. Fast fashion has a detrimental effect on the environment. Bamburg explains the damaging effects it has on our planet. “It’s damaging for many reasons: first, it promotes incredible waste, more than 15 million tons of textile waste are generated in the United States each year, an amount that’s doubled over the past 20 years.”

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THE DARK SIDE TO YOUR FAVOURITE CLOTHING BRANDS 79

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MILLION TONNES OF TEXTILE WASTE

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may seem, and in the next few years we can hope to see more people sporting sustainable clothes not only for the sake of the environment, but for the worker who constructed it. “Slowly, consumers attitudes towards fast fashion are changing, but the majority of the public still either isn’t informed, doesn’t feel the need to change their buying habits, or can’t afford to do so. There is definitely a switch happening as more and more brands are leading the way into ethical fashion, but the initiative needs to come from the customers for the industry to really change.” Not only does the environment suffer at the grips of fast fashion, so do the workers, with work-based accidents and deaths being a running theme in factories that produce clothes for some well known major brands. All too often work place safety is missed and the standards are greatly lacking, resulting in people being exploited; over worked and underpaid. (It’s important to note we contacted all of

these popular brands and they all declined to comment.) Bamburg stresses how important employee safety and care is to Kotn. “Our clothing is currently made in Egypt. Working with family-run farms in the Nile Delta, we buy all of our cotton directly from the source, cutting out traditional middlemen.” Kotn is involved with it’s workers in ensuring they are cared for and know exactly who is taking each role. “To keep things in check, we run independent audits of the different facilities we work with, to make sure everyone is being treated fairly and doing what they say they’re doing.” “We’re on the ground every day to keep a close eye on our partners and their employees—we have a small team that is headquartered out of Cairo, and checks in with each step of the supply chain. A couple of key standards centre around fair and equal pay, equal opportunity, safe working conditions, and reasonable working hours.” I ask Kotn how the

company ensures the workers are safe since they are located on the other side of the globe and are not as accessible. Workers in factories who supply to ome leading stroes are forced to work “very fast and under extreme pressure”, it is claimed. Phys.org reported “Garment workers often face low wages, poor working conditions, long hours and adverse health effects.” With so much poor treatment, Kotn is dedicated to ensuring the workers who create it’s garments are treated properly. Not only does it treat it’s workers fairly, it also reaches out to assist them. Bamburg adds: “As some of our partners are entirely family run, like many of our farms. We also create initiatives to help ease their financial burden—last month, for instance, we distributed fertilizers to 150 farmers both to help them with their cash flow, but also to ensure they wouldn’t be using harmful chemicals in their fields just to save on cost.”

EASY OVER ETHICAL?

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have met their families, we spend a lot of time in India with themâ&#x20AC;? 82

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Lucy and Yak are a Barnsley based independent sustainable brand who also strive to treat their workers with care and respect. The brand started as an accident when travelling in India, and they began making dungarees to help generate a little extra cash and now the brand is thriving. Lucy and Yak work closely with their staff to ensure good practices are kept up. “We personally know our tailors, we have met their families, we spend a lot of time in India with them. We helped Ismail to build a factory, it’s clean, it has aircon (apparently no factories have aircon in India). We pay a living wage and we give great bonuses too. We are more like a family.” Although the brand is small, they work closely with their suppliers and workers “We are more like a family. We have more influence than a lot of small brands because we helped Ismails factory to grow, we didn’t go to a manufacturer that was already up and running”. If independent brands are able to oversee proper working conditions, it is hoped bigger brands will soon follow suit and provide their employees with better treatment and improved labour conditions. By Grace Lansbury

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FUR.

FASHION

Elisha Holt looks into the growing battle between faux fur and natural materials as the rise of veganism and the animal rights movement threatens to increase the already damaging plastic pollution affecting the planet.

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As time has progressed, so has human life. Politics, communication, technology and fashion have greatly changed. Humans are no longer the same Neanderthals wandering around in animal skin hunting for their food as and when they need it. Although, it seems as though we may need to reconsider revisiting that lifestyle.

many major brands are turning their backs on fur. Gucci, DKNY, Michael Kors and Hugo Boss have all announced that they will be phasing natural materials such as fur out of their designs. It is clear to see that the moral stance surrounding the use of animal products has become agreed amongst most of the population.

The vegan trend continues to grow. The number of vegans doubled between 2014 and 2016 according to the Vegan Society and a moral understanding of what animals should and shouldn’t be used for has seemingly been agreed upon. Meat-Free Mondays, dairy-free alternatives and faux fur fashion are all the range. But is this trend as good for the environment as it may seem?

Animal rights activist group PETA is one of the many charities calling for the complete ban of fur imports into Britain. Yvonne Taylor, director of corporate projects at PETA UK, described people that still buy fur as “a tiny minority of people, who cling to a gruesome and archaic notion of glamour”. She also stated that: “Ninety-five per cent of Brits say they would never wear real fur.” This statistic may be represented in the treatment of fur retailers.

As well as the benefits to society that surround veganism, the moral standing of not harming animals for one’s own enjoyment is something that pulls many people in. The sale of animal products in fashion may seem to be in decline and

Mike Moser, CEO of the British Fur Trade Association, explained how fur retailers have been receiving more and more threats over recent years: “Protests still take place, I’ve

had retailers receiving death threats.” He described a scenario in which one of the retailers had to call the police after an antifur protestor walked into her store and made throat-cutting signs towards her, threatening her life. Despite this, the fur industry is still flourishing, Moser said. Sales of fur and other animal materials in China are on the rise and it is estimated that in 2016 the industry had grown by £162m in five years. It appears the perception that fur is for grandmas has disappeared and the age of fur as a luxury is returning. Fur items for decades were associated with affluence, rarity and treated as heirlooms, an attitude which Moser thinks is returning. Natural materials however, may be about to cause a huge moral split in vegans and vegetarians that are trying to protect the planet. In recent years scary statistics have been circulating about the state of the planet we live on. Oceans are filling with plastic, CO2 85

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“

1.7 grams of microfibres released from a synthetic fleece jacket each wash. This doubles with age.

”

emissions are rising and it is estimated we only have 12 years to make changes before the damage is irreparable. Veganism is a growing trend that is being advocated as a more environmentally friendly lifestyle. It is by definition a lifestyle in which one refrains from consuming any products that come from animals including meat, dairy, natural materials and fish. It is estimated that 14.5% of greenhouse gas emissions come from raising livestock (Food and Agriculture Organisation of the UN) and it is therefore unsurprising that many people are deciding to switch to a vegan or vegetarian lifestyle. A typical vegetarian or vegan would not wear clothing made from natural materials such as fur, leather or wool and would instead opt for a faux option, which is made from synthetic materials. This is where the problem lies. Moser discussed the rising debate in the use of natural materials over synthetic materials. In response to the moral call for the use of animal products to be stopped, clothing suppliers began using synthetic materials such as polyester and nylon. However, there is a very real issue with these materials and the fast, cheap fashion associated with them. A lot of these materials

and clothes are made from microfibres, which are tiny pieces of plastic that measure less than half a millimetre and are wreaking havoc on our environment. The issue with these synthetic materials is that they do not degrade. Natural materials can be remade into something and have a very long shelf life, in comparison to synthetic materials, which often cost much less but last a much shorter time. Microfibres are not picked up in water treatment and it is therefore highly likely that they are now in our food chain and the effects of this are worrying. Research conducted by the University of California at Santa Barbara found that 1.7g of microfibres were released from a synthetic fleece jack each wash and this could double as the jacket ages. The microfibres are similar in compound to microbeads (tiny pieces of plastic that used to be in skincare products) — which are banned in the UK, US and Canada. But research suggests they are more prevalent than microbeads. Suggestions such as the banning of plastic straws, single use cups and cutlery and plastic bottles have all been in order to stop polluting the ocean, after harrowing images of sea-life

surrounded by plastic have been shared around social media. However, research suggests that US water may be more primarily polluted with microfibres, which are harmful to humans. Despite this, more and more brands are switching to synthetic materials rather than natural materials which do not cause these same problems. Morally, it is fair to say wearing fur and leather that has been reared purely for human use doesn’t sit well with a lot of people. Buying faux items that replicate the same design but cause no harm to an innocent animal seems like a win-win scenario, no animals are hurt and the item still looks good. But that is not always the best way to help protect the planet or our environment. The debate between how much damage the rearing of animals for the creation of natural materials causes, and how this weighs up against the pollution coming from microfibres and synthetic clothing seems an argument that neither side will agree on. Animal activist groups such as PETA want all-natural materials taken from animals to be banned in the UK, but the alternative is a creating detrimental issues for our planet — a planet that is reaching its limit with the irresponsible actions and impacts of the people living on it.

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The Yorkie, Issue 1

Articles inside

Fast fashion

Street style: 100% Human

Rise in vintage

Black Sheep

YO Music

Hidden food gems

A guide to York's history

BAKES & CO.

Post uni depression

War without end

Men's mental health

The healing campus

Student sex workers

Fighting the good fight

First time buyers

Unsung heroes

Vegans for fur