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WorldMags.net NO.285 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

Editor & Publisher Peter Simic

E: editor@winestate.com.au

Managing Editor Lara Simic

E: lara@winestate.com.au

NZ Editor Jane Skilton MW

E: janeskilton@icloud.com

Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Vicki Bozsoki

E: administration@winestate.com.au

Graphic Designer Naomi Fry

E: production@winestate.com.au

Marketing Manager Peter Jackson

E: sales@winestate.com.au

Tasting Coordinator

E: tasting@winestate.com.au

Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site

E: editor@winestate.com.au

WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253

E: newzealand@winestate.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Jane Skilton MW, Emma Jenkins MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Peter Jackson, Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: sales@winestate.com.au Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - oreillym@ozemail.com.au Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: john@lifestylemediavic.com.au New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: jaye@themediaworkshop.com.au New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: Debbie@mckaybowman.co.nz France Mr Philippe Marquezy - Espace Quadri Phone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466 Web: www.espacequadri.com Email: d.rouget.marquezy@gmail.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Gordon and Gotch Australia P/L International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright 2017 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail editor@winestate.com.au Web Site www.winestate.com.au

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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017

F E A T U R E S 30

SOLAR MAKES SENSE If energy giant AGL has any say, solar energy and the wine industry will be natural partners in a future power market based around renewables, writes Nigel Hopkins. AGL believes the time is right for environmentally-minded winemakers to make the switch to commercial solar power generation to meet energy needs. It offers cheaper power while showcasing green credentials in an industry more mindful of its carbon footprint.

BUILDING ON THE PAST Victoria’s Yarra Valley has a long history with wine and this relationship is being strengthened by the likes of local wineries including Seville Estate. In the last two years, reports Michael Hince, there’s been a flurry of activity at Seville Estate - new owners, a revamped cellar door, enhanced tasting focus and a replanting regime. And behind the new Seville era is the guiding hand of winemaker Dylan McMahon.

MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII It was a rigorous and thorough examination in Winestate’s 12th annual syrah/shiraz challenge of more than 420 examples of this wonderful style from around the world. For the Top Ten selection this year it was impossible to separate the very high point scores that the judging panels awarded to the wines. Each wine achieved a unanimous 18.5 points from each of the three judges involved. We could have done a “judge off” but decided this year that this would not have done justice to the exceptional quality of the wines involved. At this high level it would have come down to a judges preference rather than a quality decision and that would have been unfair to the bottom wines in any Top Ten ranking. Hence the “no particular order” rating was decided. Judged entirely blind, if you do win an award with Winestate, you’ve definitely earned it, writes Peter Simic. Mainfreight World’s Greatest Syrah & Shiraz Challenge XII tasting starts page 64. SUPER SERIOUS ABOUT SHIRAZ Australia and shiraz is a vinous match without equal, writes Dan Traucki, but understanding and growing the relationship, particularly on the international stage, requires additional commitment. Wine Australia is working on a $5.3 million investigation to understand and refine the expression of Australian shiraz terroir and this follows similar studies in the shirazdominant regions of McLaren Vale and the Barossa Valley.

and deliberate since the 1950s when Grange made its appearance. Jimmy Watson trophy winners are evidence of the change - since 2009 the three shiraz wines which have won have come from cooler climates. 46

SAFE HAVEN There’s a range of cellaring skills essential to storing and ageing fine wines, suggests Dan Traucki, and Australian company Wine Ark is one of the nation’s leading providers of safe wine storage. The organisation offers a range of options catering for private and commercial storage. Whether you want to age a dozen bottles or store a vintage’s worth of bottles, Wine Ark has the ability to care for your collections.

R E G U L A R S 12

Briefs

NZ report with Jane Skilton

European Report with Sally Easton

Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley

Wine Travel with Elisabeth King

Wine History with Valmai Hankel

Grapevine

Wine Words

What’s it Worth?

Wine Investment & Collecting

130

Aftertaste

W I N E

T A S T I N G S

64 Shiraz/Syrah & Blends 86 Semillon & Blends

CHANGING TASTES Momentum away from the big, bold shiraz wines which dominated in the 1990s and early 2000s to more refined, elegant, cooler-climate styles continues to build, reports Dan Traucki. The evolution of shiraz has been long, slow

Winestate Magazine Issue Number 285 September/October 2017 Cover photograph carther 8

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92 Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria 98 River Regions 104 Otago (Central Otago & Waitaki Valley) 108 Jane Skilton’s Recent Releases

111 New Releases and Best Value Buys under $20. For a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au

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WorldMags.net A Panel of Speakers on:

Cancer Research and The Way Forward Business Lunch

Prof. Guy Maddern

Prof. Peter John Wormald

Prof. Toby Coates

20th November 2017 WHEN: WHERE: InterContinental Adelaide TICKETS: AICC Members: $165 AICC Non Members: $180 We are pleased to invite you, your guests and colleagues to A Business Luncheon with three speakers on: ‘Cancer Research and The Way Forward’ We are pleased to invite you, your guests and colleagues to a business lunch on the topic of ‘Cancer research and the way forward’ with a panel of three esteemed speakers including, Prof Toby Coates, Prof. Guy Maddern and Prof. Peter John Wormald. These speakers will offer their insight and share their experiences about Cancer research and development, what we can learn, and how we can move forward. Don’t miss the opportunity to hear from these world class speakers. To book contact eventsa@aicc.org.au

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editorial

ALWAYS A PLEASURE! I think about this term when we put together our annual Winestate Mainfreight judging of syrah and shiraz wines. It is one of our major tastings that we always look forward to. Not only is it one of our biggest, it also involves sourcing some of the big-name players from Australia and France to go head-to-head in a fearless, no holds barred battle. These include the Penfolds Grange, Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road, Wolf Blass Platinum, Torbreck The Laird and Henschke Hill of Grace, in the Australian corner, with others of equal stature to make their mark in coming years. Interestingly none of these wines enter wine shows and are happy to live on their laurels. With the results of the blind judging by their peer winemakers it is easy to see why, where some fall below their reputation. However it is also good to see the cream rise to the top with the best performers offering great complexity. In the French corner we also sourced the top iconic examples, including the M. Chapoutier L’Ermite, E. Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque and Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle. New Zealand was represented by wines from Vidal, Esk Valley and the amazing value Church Road Grand Reserve Syrah. Now what I have been talking about is at the rarified and expensive pointy end. It is interesting to see the wines judged and their reviews, but realistically it offers little buying relevance to most readers. What is great about this overall judging is that it involves price categories where, whatever your budget, there is a wine or three for you. Of all the red varieties shiraz always seems to have the most wines recommended across the board. With its rich, sweet fruit balanced by grape and oak tannins, it is the most forgiving of all varieties. This means that at the lowest price range a shiraz is your safest bet from a wine list of names you have never heard of before. Over a period of four days these wines were judged blind by panels of three peer winemaker and trade judges without fear or favour. Then all five-star wines were analysed to determine the highest score in each price range to thereby deliver the category winners and a final Top Ten. Australia is the undisputed home of shiraz and of course is the dominant player in this tasting. We did also source quite a few inexpensive wines from France, Argentina and Chile but few of these made the cut so unfortunately they don’t appear in the reviews. (You can however find them in the what we tasted section on our website. See www.winestate.com.au) However we do welcome higher quality overseas entries and hope to increase those in next year’s judging. But there’s more! Of course this issue is not just all about syrah or shiraz but also about some wonderful wines that we discovered in our other judgings. These include the highly-regarded Yarra and cool climate Southern Victorian regions, along with the great value engine room of the Australian wine industry, the Riverland, crossing through the borders of South Australia, New South Wales and Victoria. New Zealand shines with wines presented from the cool climate (yet sunny) region of Central Otago. For white wine lovers our national style judging of semillon continues to delight, especially with complex, aged examples. Our regular New Releases always offers a nice selection of lunch wines plus some jewels to impress or put away for that special occasion. Lots to try and lots to enjoy! Cheers!

Peter Simic Editor/Publisher Major Sponsors and Supporters

WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY

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LEGEND STATUS THE 2017 Hunter Valley Living Legend has been awarded to leading viticulturist Ian Tinkler for his significant contribution to the Hunter Valley wine industry for more than three decades. Tinkler worked for the Primary Industry Department and was instrumental in helping to form the first Hunter Valley Viticultural Improvement Society before moving into wine production with his own winery at Pokolbin. “We built a winery and stuffed our weekends!” he quipped during his acceptance speech at the black tie dinner in the Hunter in late May. Also recognised were the local stars of the wine industry. Rising Star of the Year went to Rauri Donkin of Bimbadgen Estate; Viticulturist of the Year was Andrew Pengilly (Tyrrell’s Wines); Cellar Door of the Year went to Thomas Wines; Winemaker of the Year was awarded to Mark Richardson (Tyrrell’s Wines) and the Hunter Valley Award for Excellence was awarded to Bruce Tyrrell (Tyrrell’s Wines). The Rothbury Cemetery, the final resting place for so many of the valley’s pioneering men and women, was awarded the Heritage Award.

THE COST OF USING STALKS THE trend for red winemakers to add stalks to fermenting wines for potentially greater fragrance, complexity and silkier tannins may come at a cost. Researchers at the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) have found that grape stems used in winemaking contain one of the most powerful compounds in wine, contributing to an herbaceous greenness in finished wines. The compound methoxypyrazine gives sauvignon blanc its classic, sometimes overpowering, vegetative leafy aromas. Research involved taking 12

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bunches of Adelaide Hills shiraz and looking at the contribution to the finished wine of stems, known as rachis, and leaves. Leaves were found to bring a confection quality to the wine, while the rachis gave a green capsicum flavour and higher astringency. “Shiraz shouldn’t be able to produce methoxypyrazine,” says Dr Leigh Francis, AWRI Research Manager - Sensory and Flavour. “But the stalks do!” Using whole bunches with stems in the fermentation of pinot noir and shiraz is very popular among Australian winemakers. Many only employ a small fraction, between 10 and 20 per cent in their ferments, but some add 100 per cent. The next phase of Dr Francis’s research will concentrate on different percentage levels and ripeness of stalks. For that, he has to wait for vintage 2018.

LONDON CALLING NOW in its third year, the Australian Women In Wine Awards (AWIWA) goes international with the announcement of 2017 winners at Australia House in London on September 26. The awards will be held in conjunction with the biggest tasting ever staged of wines made by Australian female winemakers and wine brands owned by women. More than 50 winemakers and owners are expected to attend. “This is an exciting development for the Australian Women In Wine Awards,” says Jane Thomson, AWIWA founder. ”Showcasing our women in wine on such an important international stage is not only good for the advancement of gender equality, it’s good for the entire Australian wine community.” The awards were founded to celebrate and reward the work of women in the Australian wine community and its leaders who champion equality and fairness for all sexes in the workplace. Awards this year include Winemaker of the Year, Viticulturist of the Year, Cellar Door Person of the Year and Workplace Champion of Change together with two new awards - Marketer of the Year and Woman of Inspiration.

GRIS OR GRIGIO? TWO decades after being begged to plant pinot gris on the Mornington Peninsula by pioneering duo Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy, around 70 per cent of vignerons now grow the grape. The region is regarded as the premier producer of pinot gris in the country. Or should that be pinot grigio? Two young peninsula

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SQUEEZE IN THIS FESTIVAL THE 2017 Orange Wine Festival will run from October 13-22 in the Central West of New South Wales, with the program now available online. There will be over 80 events featured over the two weekends, including various tastings and dinners. Orange is just over the Blue Mountains from Sydney and a three-hour drive from Canberra, and is fast becoming known as the premier cool-climate wine region of NSW. Orange Region Vignerons Association chair Justin Jarrett said: “The Orange Wine Festival is an important platform for promotion. Through this festival we can highlight Orange’s unique qualities as a wine region such as the producers are banking their future on gris. “When I talk about gris I mean gris only, not grigio,” explains Mike Aylward at Ocean Eight. “We are treating it (gris) with respect, using more Alsatian (winemaking) mechanisms.” Sam Coverdale at Polperro believes the market is looking to gris over grigio, especially when it comes to the textural, food friendly properties of the grape. “The focus is on gris,” he says. “The market has demanded it.” Not that the early picked, non-wooded Italian style of grigio is completely out of favour, but makers say they find more complexity in the later picked, Alsatian style gris. The two mates explore the grape in their own different way. Aylward ferments the grape in barrel to build texture and likes to leave a “tiny degree” of residual sugar. Coverdale goes for 100 per cent malolactic fermentation, enhancing the region’s natural bright acidity. “Acid is the key to Mornington Peninsula gris, and then you work on texture,” he says. The future for the grape on the peninsula is varied with not one or two but many alternative expressions: sweet, skin contact and treating it like a red wine (the grape’s red skin holds a cache of phenolic goodies) as well as bottle age. More and more makers are looking to make gris as they might its cousin, pinot noir.

altitude and cool climate, the fact that you will meet the maker when visiting our cellar doors and, of course, our fine elegant wines.” The Orange Wine Festival is supported by Destination NSW. Visit www.orangewinefestival.com.au.

O’CALLAGHAN THE NEW WESTERN FORCE

EXPORT TARGETS THE Victorian Government has committed almost $900,000 to the Victorian wine industry over the next four years, targeting export markets and domestic growth. The recently launched Victorian Wine Industry Development Strategy was developed in conjunction with Wine Victoria and comes at a time of renewed confidence by wine producers. “The industry has gone through some difficult times in recent years,” says Wine Victoria chair, Damien Sheehan, “but all the signs are that we are well on the way to blowing the bad times out of the water. We have increasing grape prices, record exports into China and a growing number of visitors heading to cellar doors. This strategy aims to ensure the winemakers and grape growers can make the most of these opportunities.”

MARK O’Callaghan, best known for producing some of Australia’s finest sparkling wines at Yarra Burn, is the new chief winemaker at Ferngrove Wines in Western Australia. O’Callaghan will oversee all aspects of wine production after spending 14 years with Accolade Wines, including eight years managing Yarra Burn. He has done vintages around the globe, including in China. He said he plans on making some of the best wines across the entire price range. “The growth and quality coming out of Great Southern drew me to this project,” he said. “I’m really excited to be working with some fantastic vineyards in true cool-climate Western Australia.” Ferngrove Wine Group is well-known for the Ferngrove, Killerby and Leaping Lizard brands.

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WorldMags.net EYE ON THE FUTURE THIRTY-plus years after being founded by the Noack family, Old Kent River Wines between Walpole and Denmark in Western Australia’s Great Southern region, has been given a new lease on life. Putting together their succession plan, the Noack family welcomed new generation managing director and business partner Josh Hardy into the fold in 2015. Hardy has brought extensive business, finance and analytical management experience, along with his long-time love of wine. Based in the Margaret River wine region, he has made many changes since taking the helm, including employing new winemaker Marius Mencel in 2016, moving the winemaking to Margaret River, updating the branding and developing four new products. New products include two new Frankland River wines, already in the making and to be launched later this year - a rosé made from pinot noir, as well as a sparkling rosé. “The next logical step for us is to move the cellar door to Margaret River,” Hardy said. “We have now found a suitable venue and will transition over the next few months. With the upgrades to the Busselton Margaret River Airport under way, the wine tourism opportunities are much greater for our flourishing brand, and we are also about to send our first shipment of wines to China.” The previous cellar door and cafe closed after the July school holiday trading period. Visit www.oldkentriverwines.com.au.

We have to wash over 32,000 wine glasses each year ... so you don’t have to.

‘RARE’ RELEASES NEW-release seven-year-old wines are a rarity, but that’s what you get with the Scotchmans Hill single vineyard range from the Bellarine Peninsula. The two pinot noirs and a chardonnay are made in extremely small quantities from three different vineyards - the Sutton, Norfolk and Armitage vineyards, all 34 years old. All the wines are cellared for several years before being released at their peak. Established in 1982 as one of the founding vineyards in the cool, maritime-influenced terroir of the Bellarine, new ownership in 2014 has seen significant investment in vineyard quality. The brands produced from Scotchmans Hill’s vineyards that overlook Port Phillip Bay include Cornelius, Scotchmans Hill, Jack and Jill by Scotchmans Hill and Swan Bay.

Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide phone +61 8 8357 9277 or on-line www.winestate.com.au

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BARONS BUILDING FOR THE FUTURE THE Barons of the Barossa are looking for a further $2 million to complete the community project known as the Barossa Cellar. The project foresees an independent, globally recognised and respected regional wine museum and the Barons already have a significant collection of fine wines from the Barossa and Eden valleys, all donated by local wineries. “Not only will the Barossa Cellar be a stunning building in which to cellar and showcase this magnificent regional wine collection, but the Barossa Grape & Wine Association (BGWA) has signed a long-term agreement to be the sole tenant of the building,” said Baron Louisa Rose from Yalumba. “This will ensure the Barossa Cellar is a living, breathing building, with a real sense of activity and purpose at the heart of the Barossa grape and wine community. At the Barossa Cellar, the Barossa wine community will be able to showcase and educate discerning wine lovers from all over the world about the intricacies of Barossa wine.” Rose says fund raising is now under way to source the remaining funds. Donations can be made online or by contacting the Barossa Cellar at info@thebarossacellar.com.au.

LINK WITH THE PAST

with gourmet goodies ranging from fresh free-range eggs and Huon

THERE is no shortage of variety in the range of accommodation

cheeses, fresh strawberries and even a bottle of local wine and

available in the Tasmanian capital of Hobart, but a newly-opened

some soft drinks. The adults-only cottage was once the home

rental cottage offers an authentic link to the past.

of the Pooleys - now one of the state’s leading wine producing

smoked salmon, to fresh artisan breads, a selection of Tasmanian

1870 Hobart Town is a super-comfortable heritage cottage in

families. The new website (1870 was only launched a few months

south Hobart, dating to 1870. It’s tucked away on a characterful

ago) describes 1870 as “a heritage cottage with character,

side street and just a quick stroll from cafes and restaurants like

comfort and convenience”. All the attractions of Hobart are on your

Ginger Brown and newcomer Miss Jane, and a short drive from the

doorstep. It is a 20-minute walk to Salamanca and its many bars

Coal River and Derwent Valley wine regions. As with the owners’

and restaurants, and several mountain tracks are available in the

other rental property, Coast House, outside Cygnet, 1870 is stocked

foothills of kunyani/Mt Wellington. For those who want to stay on one

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WorldMags.net served by well-informed and fun staff. Mezzalira is a little more formal; with excellent food but more of a date-night vibe. The same impressive attention to detail, though. Choose daily specials from the blackboard, or sample starters like sardine fillets with pine nuts, currants and chardonnay vinegar or mains like wood-fired Berkshire suckling pig. Pasta choices include pappardelle with smoked duck breast or risotto with scampi, broad beans and mascarpone. And there is an enticing wine list with several good choices, both Italian and Australian, by the glass.

level, there is a comfortable queen-sized bed with luxury linens and bathroom downstairs along with a spacious living area and kitchen. There is a second character attic bedroom upstairs. For warmer days guests have use of a balcony and an embryonic garden, as well as off-street parking. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find TV and free, fast internet, too, for keeping in touch with those at home, as well as a stereo system. Prices start from $250 a night. www.1870hobarttown.com.

POLITICS PLAYED ITS PART QT Canberra is one of the hippest addresses in the national capital - the latest incarnation of a building that is steeped in Australian political history. This quirky designer hotel celebrates its history and rebirth through bold design, a mix of hip artworks and bespoke furniture. Located in the emerging cultural precinct of New Acton, the former Lakeside Hotel property has been home to many a handshake deal and long lunch and today the Capitol Bar & Grill offers a range of fine wine and bistro classics. There is an on-trend members-only rooftop lounge (try to talk your way in), Luckyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s speakeasy bar and an old-school barber shop for anyone in need of a cut-throat shave before dinner. Look out for the artworks decorating the lobby area and the little in-room twists in the style of hotel design icons like Mama Shelter, Luna 2 in Bali and other QT properties. The rooms are stylish with airconditioning, a mini bar, a flat-screen TV and private balcony. They each offer a

BUILDING A DINING DYNASTY ANYONE wining and dining in Canberra is likely to come across one of the properties owned by the Trimboli family. Bacaro Wine Bar, Italian and Sons trattoria, upmarket Mezzalira and Da Rosario pizza bar are all owned by the long-time Canberra residents with hospitality in their blood. Bacaro, tucked away in the back room of Italian and Sons on Lonsdale St in busy, buzzy Braddon, is the place to go for a pre-dinner glass of wine (the wine list is exclusively Italian with the exception of a selection from local icon winery Clonakilla). Grab some flatbreads or olives and plan the night ahead over a glass of anything from a natural wine to a topclass nebbiolo. Next door, Italian and Sons serves classic Italian dishes in a riotously fun atmosphere. It is often packed to rafters with a relaxed crowd enjoying pizzas, pastas and other favourites 16

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wines from each decade, including the first vintage release of the 1977 Taltarni Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon and 1977 Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon Special Reserve, which will be available in limited quantities,” he said. The 40th anniversary occurs during an exciting phase of growth and development for Taltarni. “We are incredibly proud of our team who remain dedicated to Taltarni’s core mission - to increase the quality of our wines and be consistently recognised as a luxur y producer of sparkling, white and red wines,” Torpy said. Chief winemaker Robert Heywood said 2017 was telephone, ironing facilities and an alarm clock - and Canberra’s

shaping up to be one of the

attractions, including Australian National University and Australian

best years for Taltarni’s red

Academy of Science are easily accessible on foot. QT Canberra,

varietals. Visit www.taltarni.

1 London Circuit, Canberra; phone (02) 6247 6244 or visit www.

com.au.

qtcanberra.com.au.

TASTE OF THE PYRENEES TALTARNI, one of the pioneering wineries in Victoria’s Pyrenees district, is this year celebrating the 40th anniversary of the winery’s first vintage release. Taltarni has been hosting a series of special tastings and events throughout the year, including an Opera Concert Gala in the winery’s barrel room and a retrospective tasting in the underground cellar cave T-Bar. Taltarni Vineyards CEO Adam Torpy said the team was looking forward to showcasing some very rare vintage wines. “We look forward to taking select guests through a retrospective tasting of our

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what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW

CHANGING OF THE GUARD THE sale of the Ngatarawa Wines brands to Mission Estate Winery and the ensuing retirement of owners Alwyn Corban and Brian Corban marks somewhat of a changing of the guard for New Zealand wine. The Corbans family has been making wine in NZ for 115 years, with founding father Assid Corban initially selling wine from a truck that travelled around the country. Corban arrived in NZ from Lebanon in 1892, establishing the family’s original 4ha block, Mt Lebanon Vineyards, in Henderson, Auckland in 1902. The Corbans expanded out from the home base to become one of the country’s most pioneering and instrumental families. They were the first to use cultured yeast and stainless steel tanks, pneumatic presses and temperature-controlled fermentations, and the first to produce commercial quantities of sparkling wine in 1962. In 1981, Alwyn Corban’s establishment of Ngatarawa Wines in Hawke’s Bay helped the Bridge Pa Triangle area become recognised as a sub-region of note, and the company has since built a thriving range of popular wines from both Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough. Mission Estate purchased the Ngatarawa Wines brands The Stables, Stables Reserve, Glazebrook and Alwyn ranges, with the intention of supplementing its own brands. With Mission being NZ’s oldest wine company (established in 1851 by French missionaries) the Corbans feel their brands remain in the sympathetic hands of a producer with a direct stake in the region and country. And with Assid Corban survived by 32 grandchildren, 71 great-grandchildren and 110 great-great-grandchildren, the next generation of Corbans will surely step to the fore, ensuring the family name will remain an enduring feature in the NZ winescape.

BACK IN THE FRAY VITICULTURIST Steve Smith MW, formerly of Craggy Range, has jumped back into the fray with two new ventures. With the first, Smith & Co, Smith intends to “bring back the values of the great wine merchant to the modern world”, via the bottling of selected wines from ongoing partnerships. Relying on Smith’s skills and experience in seeking out top-performing sites, the range so far comprises quirkily-labelled Sauvignon (Marlborough sauvignon blanc, but without the blanc “because we all know the wine is white”), Grigio (a dry, Awatere Valley pinot gris) and a Gimblett Gravels merlot cabernet blend FDR, whose name harks back to the “fine dry reds” of the English merchant trade. At the time of going to press, Smith was also due to launch a fine wine business, Aotearoa Fine Wine Estates, partnering with American billionaire investor Brian Sheth of private equity fund, Vista Equity Partners. Sheth is a keen supporter of environmental projects, chairing the Global Wildlife Conservation and with his wife, establishing the Sangreal Foundation to focus on conservation education. With Smith also taking on the general manager’s role at Sheth’s newly purchased biodynamic Waipara Valley estate, Pyramid Valley, the pair may soon find themselves in need of some conservation of their own!

MAKING GREAT STRIDES SMITH’S former haunt, Craggy Range Vineyards, is making strides, too. With solid operating profits posted in December 2016 and pivotal US sales growing strongly, it has bought more land in Martinborough with the intention of expanding existing pinot noir, chardonnay, sauvignon 18

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blanc and aromatics holdings. The move comes as the company divests itself of vineyards in Marlborough, with the New Zealand Overseas Investment Office recently approving the sale of the 274ha Awatere Valley Black Birch Vineyard for $NZ23million ($A21.7million), to an American non-profit financial institution, Teachers Insurance and Annuity Association of America (TIAA). The vineyard is currently under partial lease to Villa Maria, which will take over the full lease by 2019. From the 2018 harvest, Villa Maria will sell back a proportion of the grapes at cost to TIAA which plan to use local contract facilities to make premium wine for the US market. The Villa Maria lease ends in 2028, at which point TIAA plans to redevelop the vineyard.

HIGH FLYERS HAWKE’S Bay is the place to be in November, from November 3 to 12, the Summer Series of the enormously popular Food and Wine Classic (FAWC) is held. Comprising two weeks of food, wine and entertainment, FAWC has local wineries combine with high-profile chefs, brewers, artists, musicians and purveyors of local produce to create a series of masterclasses, tours, dinners, workshops, markets and picnics. Participants can attend as many or a few events as their stamina allows, but as the ever-increasing number of returning “FAWCers” attest, it’s best to go large or go home.

PATIENCE REWARDED MARLBOROUGH sauvignon blanc may have built its reputation with vibrantly fresh wines typically consumed within a year or so of release, but there’s an increasing number of wines made that both demand and reward a little more patience. Greywacke recently held a tasting showing the seven vintages of its Wild Sauvignon, which amply demonstrated its ability to gain further complexity and depth with time in the bottle, and fellow travellers Dog Point have just launched its 2007 Library Release to its Library Wine Club. From a vintage that is proving to age very well, this mixed bag of wines includes at least one each of the sauvignon blanc and its funky stablemate Section 94, with wines looking remarkably vibrant and precise. It seems consumers these days may need to take a fresh look at Marlborough sauvignon as its top producers are moving far beyond the archetype in which many have it pigeonholed.

STUFF OF DREAMS HAVE you ever fancied a case of 1982 Chateau Lafite Rothschild? How about one also accompanied by a personalised tour of four of the First Growths plus a private viewing of the Ch. Mouton Rothschild museum and Paintings for the Labels collection? No? Well, if Burgundy is more your thing, how about a trip for four hosted by three MWs, including Inside Burgundy author (and raconteur) Jasper Morris MW, visiting Lafon, Louis Latour and Rousseau among others? The stuff of dreams? Actually, the above winelover fantasies and much more are up for grabs as “super lots” in the once-in-a-lifetime Institute of Masters of Wine Auction and Dinner (and you should see the dinner wines...). The catch is you’ll need to book a table of 10 (a snip at $A16,700) and be in London on November 16 ready to bid (fiercely). Of course, if your pockets are not that deep there will be 100 other wonderful but slightly less eye-watering lots available online from November 1. So start saving.

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nzreport

WorldMags.net WORDS JANE SKILTON MW

STANDING UP FOR INDEPENDENCE I’M really enjoying my role as Winestate’s New Zealand Editor. The main focus is to chair the NZ Regional and New Release tastings, which are a significant part of the magazine’s offering to consumers. In keeping with Winestate’s policy of independent and balanced reviewing, I invite experienced judges to participate as part of a panel. This is important to ensure there is a diverse and impartial set of palates tasting each wine. As with all professional tastings, initially wines are tasted blind and individual scores collected. All high-scoring wines (four stars and above) are tasted a second time, still blind, and judges asked to discuss the merits of each. In this way every wine is given a chance to be promoted (or in a few cases demoted) once opinions have been shared. Any wine which a judge feels particularly strongly about may also be retasted and its merits discussed. So every wine entered has a chance to shine and I am comfortable that this process enables each one to be thoroughly assessed. Tasting with one’s peers is always enjoyable, often enlightening and mostly thought provoking. But once the tasting day is over, my real work begins and I expand the brief tasting notes into descriptions that are intended to convey the essence of each wine to the reader. Most wine lovers have a copy of Michael Broadbent’s scholarly book Vintage Wine in their library, in which Harry Waugh describes 1945 Chateau Haut Brion as “really good, heavenly wine”. A simple fourword narrative for a wine reputed to be the finest ever made by the chateau. But the arrival on the scene in the mid1980s of the Wine Advocate and its 100-point scale was a turning point for wine reviewing. Whereas once a brief note, maybe complemented by a simple star rating, seemed to be enough, it now seemed wines deserved an essay-length note squeezing in as many fruits, vegetables and sundry perfumed descriptors as possible. 20

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Yet despite the effort that had no doubt gone into creating such evocative and extensive notes, many wines ultimately were assessed only by the score awarded. What does this mean for the wine lover who is looking to buy wines he or she will enjoy? The increasing importance of scoring a wine and the associated reduction in importance of the written word has created a couple of problems for consumers.

Maybe perfection is out there but it has never (yet) crossed my palate. Many reviews are no longer found via wine columns but instead published through online channels such as blogging sites or forums. This “democratisation” of reviewing has opened up the field of wine criticism to anyone with a keyboard and corkscrew. While there are many great voices out there, it does mean in an increasingly crowded field those wanting to make their presence felt struggle to be heard. Awarding a high score is one way to achieve this. Unfortunately, whereas once high ratings were relatively rare, now with score inflation, wines in the 91+ category, including those rating the perfect 100, are now quite common. These days how does the consumer differentiate wines when so many have gained a high score? With almost 30 years working in wine, I can’t recall ever giving a perfect score notwithstanding that I’ve been lucky enough to drink some of the world’s greatest wines. Maybe perfection is out there but it has never (yet) crossed my palate. I judge in a positive frame of mind and if a wine is fabulous I have no problem in saying so, and in providing reasons why I think that. A high score should simply be a reflection of the positive tasting experience

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and not as an end in itself, and certainly not simply to attract attention and be heard. A focus on ratings creates other issues. Recently I was slightly taken aback to receive an email from a winery asking why one of the wines it had entered didn’t get as high a score as it felt was deserved. The winery was surprised as it had already been given some glowing ratings. I looked back at my tasting notes which described the wine as well made, correct but without that certain x-factor. I was very happy with the panel’s assessment. When I looked online, the wine in question had indeed received a few positive accolades but some of these had been given by reviewers who offer a paid-for reviewing service. Although I’m sure these people have the best of intentions, nevertheless, if one’s livelihood depends on an income stream generated from the wine industry, it is perhaps more difficult to be truly impartial and ensure the consumer is provided with an independent and informed view. Wine criticism doesn’t need defining and should be easily understood through the meaning of the words themselves. Critical reviews should attempt to inform a consumer not only why a wine scored highly but also why another didn’t and this is where the importance of the written word comes in. Was it too oaky or slightly lacking in acidity? These are comments that separate true wine criticism from the common practice of generating tasting notes with an associated score. Readers should be able to discern readily from the description why the wine scored three stars rather than five or 80 points rather than 98. Judging is not a precise science and nor should it be. Decisions on a wine with a panel are often consensus-based and involve compromise. Providing descriptions to truly inform consumers about a wine is never easy. But I am very comfortable to say to Winestate readers that our system for reviewing wines and rating them is independent, robust and fair.

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The world at your leet. For Australian and New Zealand wine shippers, it’s a world of opportunity. In fact exporters of all our premium commodities are beneiting from Hamburg Süd’s global services spread. With our reliable ixed-day weekly sailings to all key markets in Asia, the Middle East, Europe, North America and South America, our sophisticated cargo care systems and our logistics resources, we’re the carrier of choice for all outward looking, forward thinking producers.

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europeanreport

WorldMags.net WORDS SALLY EASTON MW

NO SIGN OF THE PROSECCO BUBBLE BURSTING

THE phenomenon that is prosecco continues to froth and fizz. Those of us with long memories will recall the burgeoning prosecco bubble kicked off in 2009 when the prosecco people moved to gain protection for their wine and their region. They successfully claimed that the then-called grape variety prosecco was inextricably linked to the protected geographical indications (DOC and DOCG in Italy) in north-east Italy. It became European Union law that anything containing “the prosecco grape” made outside of the delimited regions in Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia must thenceforth be labelled “glera” - an alternative name of the same grape variety. And despite Italian protests, Australian wine producers remain allowed to label wines - made from glera - as prosecco, but on the domestic market only. What happened back in 2009? The heartland of prosecco production has always been in the hills around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene about an hour’s drive from Venice. This heartland was, until the 2009 vintage, the DOC (equivalent to Appellation Controlee in France) - at that time the pinnacle of the quality hierarchy for the prosecco wine style. In the years before this time production had already expanded into lower-lying, more easily cultivable land. The wines emanating from this land were labelled as IGT wine - a lower quality level under EU legislation, with more relaxed (higher-yielding) production rules. In 2009 much of the IGT territor y was elevated to DOC, and the original heartland became DOCG (top of Italy’s quality wine pyramid). The full name of this appellation: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. And, at the pyramid’s very apex is a cru area - Cartizze - a 106-ha steep hillside subzone within Valdobbiadene. 22

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The per mitted grape varieties - a minimum 85 per cent glera, plus some other local varieties- and the production method - mainly a relatively speedy second fermentation in tank - is the same in both DOC and DOCG appellations. Added to which traditional method fermentation (as in champagne) is allowed in both DOC and DOCG, though it is very much a minority sport.

Stylistically it’s much more approachable, fun, casual, sweeter, less acidic than champagne, with light fruity flavour that is simply pleasurable and appealing. Where do the differences appear … well, the DOCG covers around 6500ha of mainly steep, sunny slopes with enough breezes to keep the vines aerated against viticultural moulds. The steepness of slope means that much of the viticulture is necessarily done by hand. It is mainly the hills, their favourable aspects in northern Italy, and the differences in approach to viticulture that they entail, that are the main differences. Figures are cited of around 100 work hours per hectare on the plains and anywhere from upwards of 600 to 1000 work hours on the steepest slopes of Valdobbiadene. Additionally, stipulated yields are some 30 per cent lower in DOCG versus DOC, which one would hope adds a degree of concentration to the floral, fruity flavours. Marking another point of differentiation for the DOCG is a nearly 10-year long process

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leading to the Conegliano Valdobbiadene region being put forward, at the beginning of this year, for UNESCO world heritage site status. Such applications seem to be a growing trend for traditional wine producing regions. Most recently Champagne and Burgundy were added in 2015; Piedmont, home of Barolo, in 2014. Austria’s Wachau region achieved “list” status in 2000. No Australian wine regions are yet on this list. The rate and rapidity of prosecco’s growth can be seen in the following data. The caveat is that the numbers are from different sources, so we’re not making exact comparisons, more giving a feel for the phenomenon. In 2009, at the time of boundary changes, estimates of production were 60 million bottles of (old)-DOC that was becoming (new)-DOCG. And 100 million bottles of IGT, most of which became (new)-DOC. By 2013 figures were 70m bottles DOCG plus 240m bottles of DOC. More recent estimates suggest 85m bottles for DOCG (2015) plus more than 400m bottles for DOC (2016). While production has increased in the original heartland (DOCG), DOC production is the one that has skyrocketed, to meet huge demand. Export markets are driving this growth, notably the UK and the US. These countries were already loving all things Italian, especially pinot grigio (plus sparkling pinot grigio) … bubbles were beginning to boom as well. Prosecco was probably obvious - stylistically it’s much more approachable, fun, casual, sweeter, less acidic than champagne, with light fruity flavour that is simply pleasurable and appealing. And it’s significantly cheaper than champagne … in a post-global financial crisis world. Nearly three-quarters of prosecco is exported, with UK, the US and Germany being the key markets; indeed according to one industry source the UK consumes

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nearly a third of all DOC prosecco produced. Demand so far shows little sign of slowing. In order to meet demand, the vineyard hectarage has recently been increased. To offer perspective, in the couple of years after the 2009 legislation, plantings of glera in north-east Italy almost doubled to more than 20,000ha. Further plantings were then banned, but due to extraordinary demand, in 2016 another 3000ha were authorised, bringing the total DOC vineyard to around 23,250ha, approaching four times the size of the DOCG vineyard. Stefano Zanette, Prosecco DOC consortium president (the organisation that oversees production) has estimated production from the expanded vineyard could reach 500 million bottles by 2020. Just of DOC prosecco. That would be a five-fold increase in 11 years. If that is not a phenomenon, what is? To put things in a little perspective … champagne production is usually somewhere between 350 to 400 million bottles. Total cava (Spanish traditional method bubbly) comes in at around 250 million bottles. And Aussie home-grown bubbles … somewhere around 50 million bottles, nearly 20 per cent of which is carbonated. You’d be forgiven for thinking that in the bubbles department Italy just produces prosecco. But there are other bubbly appellations in Italy, and they are all in the cooler northern part of the country. The originally famous asti, that fruity, frothy, sweet dessert-style bubbly, made in the north-west, from moscato (there’s another story). Then the traditional method sparkling wines stand a little apart, as niche products. Franciacorta, on the southern shores of Lake Iseo, in Lombardy, and trentodoc, with its themes of Dolomite mountains, crispness and tinkling bubbles. Production is equally niche though, about 20 million bottles between them.

Yorke Peninsula’s award winning vineyard

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winetutor

WorldMags.net WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY

ROCK STARS PLAY THEIR PART

VINEYARDS are made up of soil, subsoil and often the fractured bed rock protrudes from the earth. There is considerable diversity of bed rock, which contributes to create the myriad of factors that add up to a wine’s terroir. It is the study of geomorphology: the study of landforms, mountain, hills and valleys that inevitably involves looking at rocks. The topsoil, where the roots are most active, consists of weathered fragments of bed rock or it may consist of colluvial material thrown down from upper slopes or have been washed into its current location by a stream or river (alluvial soils). As well as these sources of sediment, vineyards can also be covered with wind-blown material which is described as “loess” or ancient debris deposited by retreating glaciers known as moraines. For vines to grow, the soil must have some degree of fertility, but not too much. Soil is generally made up of clay, silt, sand, stones, rock and organic material. Silt, simply put, is particles that sit between the size of clay and sand, while loam describes an ideal mixture of clay, silt and sand. Equally, rocks play an important part in separating one region from another, especially in Europe. In Bordeaux, for example, merlot performs better on the deeper clay soils of St Emilion and Pomerol which sit high (for Bordeaux) on a limestone escarpment, while cabernet sauvignon prefers the low lying river estuary gravel beds that were formed over countless centuries as rivers emptied into the Atlantic Ocean. In central France the bed rock changes from sedimentary limestone to plutonic igneous granite as you drive south from Beaune to Beaujolais and the grape variety changes from pinot noir to gamay. Over time vignerons have trialled 24

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and adapted the variety to suit the earth. Granite crops up in Australian regions fairly often, especially in Victoria. Driving over the Great Dividing Ranges at the top of the Macedon Ranges you can see weathered granite protruding everywhere, especially if you call into the aptly named Granite Hills Winery. Further north, Bailey’s of Glenrowan, is on red granite soils and the prestigious Beechworth wineries such as Giaconda and Castagna are on old decomposed devonian granite.

The most famous of all slate soils are found on the steep slopes of the Mosel Valley in Germany where the rocks soak up the sun during the day and then radiate the heat back to the vine in the chilly evenings. Schist is a metamorphic/volcanic rock that is similar to slate. Both igneous and sedimentary rocks can change into metamorphic rocks when they are put under great pressure or are heated to incredibly high temperatures. Both slate and schist (an ancient Greek word for split) can be fractured easily and split into flakes. Schist is found in regions such as Muscadet and Cote Rotie. In Priorat in northern Spain, grenache reaches great depth and intensity

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grown on local slate soils called llicorella, which has small amounts of mica and quartz running through it. But probably the most famous of all slate soils are found on the steep slopes of the Mosel Valley in Germany where the rocks soak up the sun during the day and then radiate the heat back to the vine in the chilly evenings. Volcanic rocks sit under the extrusive igneous category and create an interesting growing environment that has recently received attention with the release of Master Sommelier John Szabo’s book Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power. Some have expounded that these soils give the wine a more austere, savoury and mineral note, together with being more powerful and intense on the palate. It is also thought that the soils increase the acid levels in the wines. There are a number of renowned wines coming off these sub soils to prove the point. On the island of Santorini the volcanic soils consist of a cocktail of pumice, black lava and ash, which produce intense, acidic and racy assyrtiko grapes. While phylloxera cannot survive in these “aspa” soils, neither do any nutrients in such harsh environments. The island receives no summer rain and the vines exist on morning dew which the volcanic soils hold on to and release to the vine. In Soave the region is split into halves. On the western side is marine-based limestone hills that run north to south. On the eastern side around Ronca the soils are volcanic, rich in minerals and with outcrops of black basalt. It is said that the volcanic soils produce more structure and fleshy wines with spice, riper preserved fruit and nuts from garganega grapes. While the limestone soils gives more acidity with white flowers and green apple aromas. To demonstrate the difference Soave winery

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Pieropan produces one wine off each soil, its Calvarino vineyard is on basalt while La Rocca sits on limestone. The most common volcanic rock found in Australia is basalt. In Tasmania basalt is found in the north-east area around Pipers River, while Jurassic age dolerite is found in the Coal River Valley. Both basalt and dolerite produce more structured pinot noir. Dolerite is similar to basalt and the soils tend to be stony and shallow, so are fairly poor. Dolerite wines constantly display darker red fruits, more depth and intensity. Coming back to Italy, the south is littered with volcanic wines. In Campania there is the region of Greco di Tufo, a white grown on tuffaceous volcanic soil. Tuff or tufo soils consist of cooled ash that has been blown out of the volcano when it was active. The greco grape gives mineral-driven, firm, dry wines. But probably the most famous grape to come from these volcanic soils is the red aglianico from Taurasi, the socalled “Barolo of the south”. These deeply coloured wines have high levels of tannins and acidity which need a number of years in bottle to soften. Around 60km south of Taurasi and you enter the region of Basilicata and, again, the aglianico shines, albeit from a different clone, this time on the slopes of the extinct volcano Vulture. Italy is a hot bed for volcanic wines. Around the active Mt Etna in Sicily you find seriously good red wines made from grapes such as nerello mascalese and its blending partner nerello capuccio used to make Etna Rosso. So getting to know your rocks is part of the enjoyment of wine and as you sip you can contemplate grape origins “and ponder the impact of the soil in the glass”.

pulpitcellars.com.au

Over 18,000 unique and premium wines

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winetravel

WorldMags.net WORDS ELISABETH KING

HANOI HOTSPOTS DELIVER ON FLAVOUR

ACCESSIBILITY is all when a country is looking to attract more high-spending international tourists. Jetstar launched new flight services to Vietnam in May, igniting a renewed explosion of interest in the fastgrowing country. Direct services to Ho Chi Minh City, link to 15 other destinations and a smart first choice is Hanoi. Only in Asia would a city of seven million rank as a second banana to a bigger rival, as the Vietnamese capital does to its sprawling southern counterpart still routinely referred to as Saigon. Something to mull over as you balance on a small plastic chair at one of the roadside joints at Beer Corner in the Old Quarter, where locals, backpackers and tourists sip on the local draught brew - bia hoi - with a shelf life of only 24 hours. Most of Hanoi’s landmarks are nearby and the Department of Tourism on Hang Dau St offers free walking tours of the historic inner city. A much less scary exercise than it was a few years ago, thanks to the increase in pedestrian zones. Mind you, the dense herds of mopeds that fly past take getting used to, especially when the pavement “runs out”. All walking trips - guided and solo - thread through a labyrinth of small side streets and wind past the 19th century French colonial cathedral of St Joseph, the Temple of Literature founded to honour Confucius in the 11th century and the area’s famous antique shops. For a breath of fresher air, head to Hoan Kiem Lake where a photoop red timber bridge takes you to an islet dominated by a temple dedicated to 14th century general Tran Hung Dao. Another not-to-be-missed pilgrimage spot is the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, where the embalmed 26

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body of the revolutionary who led Vietnam to independence rests in a glass case in the chilly central hall. The jewel of West Lake, a short walk away, is the Tran Quoc Pagoda, one of the oldest in Hanoi. Your cultural duty done, it’s time to get down to what Hanoi does best - food. A market tour is a fun way to dive head first into the local take on one of the world’s most famous cuisines. The Hanoi Cooking Centre in Ba Dinh district conducts tours

Traditional French pastries and croissants share shelf space with deep-fried banh, sweet and savoury doughnuts and spring rolls. in English with chef guides who take you back to base to cook up specialities such as claypot chicken with ginger, garlic and fish sauce. There are also a host of early morning and evening foodie tours available for those who feel a bit iffy about going “freelance” with street food choices. Pho is the iconic centrepiece of Vietnamese restaurants worldwide. But the rice noodle soup thick with slivers of fresh beef, herbs and bean sprouts is a breakfast dish on its home turf. Nearly every food stall in the Old Quarter serves its own version of the classic but, if you prefer to dine rather than graze on the run, Pho 10 at

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10 Ly Quoc Su St is one of the best places to enjoy the dish that conquered the globe. The big international hotel chains have set up shop in Hanoi en masse. But nostalgia fans opt for the Sofitel Metropole, a colonial bolthole which opened in 1901 and retains its crown as the most prestigious address in town. Like the Oriental in Bangkok, the hotel is divided between the original building of polished wooden floorboards, period furniture and antiques, and a modern wing. The signature restaurant is La Terrasse du Metropole, which takes its cue from historic French bistros with a menu to match. Drop by for a coffee or indulge in traditional Gallic favourites such as entrecote and frites and coq au vin. Head for the roof terrace before or after dinner for its movie-set atmosphere. Still in the Indochine mood, albeit updated with a twist, is La Verticale. Transplanted Breton chef Didier Corlou has created a not-to-be missed fine dining experience in a 1930s villa which combines French haute cuisine with contemporary Vietnamese in standout dishes such as duck with foie gras and fusion seasoning, shellfish soup with lemongrass and Mekong fruits sorbet. Sunset drinks in the Bamboo Bar should be mandatory. Corlou also owns Madame Hien, dedicated to his wife’s grandmother, where he really indulges his passion for his wife’s homeland. The pho here is ambrosial. The Hanoi Opera House, built in 1911, is one of the diminishing number of grand colonial buildings left in Hanoi. In the basement you will find the luxurious Nineteen 11 restaurant where the theme is also the pairing of east and west in signature dishes such as foie gras with mango chutney and

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gluhwein ginger reduction. The Essence Cafe and Restaurant in the Essence Hanoi Hotel is also a dead cert inclusion on any shortlist of the best restaurants in the city. Another French legacy is a sweet tooth. In the heart of the busy Hoan Kiem district is O’Douceurs Hanoi, which bills itself as specialising in French pastries in the French Quarter. Open all day, it caters to the sugar cravings of locals and tourists with a top array of fruit tarts, breads, macarons and gateaux. Traditional French pastries and croissants share shelf space with deep-fried banh, sweet and savoury doughnuts and spring rolls at Quan Goc Da in Ly Quoc Su St near the cathedral. Under the come-on line - “Healthy Food for a Healthy Planet” - The Hanoi Social Club is as cool a trendy hangout as you will find at home. The coffee and smoothies are great and so are the Western-style brunch dishes. Full of Hanoi creatives, there are regular musical performances, art exhibitions and craft fairs. The alleys around Dong Xuan Market are prime territory to enjoy the Vietnamese equivalent of the hot dog - banh mi - a bread-filled roll eaten on the run. Moped drivers just wordlessly hand over the cash at food stalls for a baguette filled with paté, herbs, onion, cucumber and chilli. Another local favourite is ga tan - spatchcocks cooked in Coke cans with seasonal herbs, lotus seeds and dates. The tiny legs poking out of the top of the tin can be a bit off-putting, but the contents are fall-off-thebone delicious.

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winehistory

WorldMags.net WORDS VALMAI HANKEL

ANDRE SIMON’S AUSTRALIAN WINE BOOK IS OUT

FRENCHMAN Andre Simon’s magnum opus on the Australian wine world was nearing completion. Right until the last minute the book’s final contents were being decided. The biggest problem was whether or not to include New Zealand. Some argued for its inclusion in this first edition of the Australian book, while others thought it could be added to a reprint, assuming one would be required. Some even hoped for a separate book. None of those options was followed. As late as November 1966, a week before Simon’s book was published and getting a bit late to make changes, Simon and his guide in Australia, Victor Gibson, and publisher Lloyd O’Neil were still corresponding and wondering if they had made the right decision about New Zealand: leave it out of this first edition of the Australian book and include it in a reprint “which we hope will be soon”. This is what Simon wanted. He argued rationally that including New Zealand in the Australia book would greatly increase sales - in New Zealand. By now the book had acquired a title the unexciting but accurate The vines, vineyards and vignerons of Australia. At the same time that Simon was dealing with this book he was also putting the finishing touches to a much larger work, Wines of the world, a giant of a book of 719 pages. Simon edited the book which he referred to as his “gazetteer”. He considered it “a major work with a definite purpose”. As well as being the book’s editor Simon also wrote much of it, including the sections on France, Germany, Australia, South Africa, North

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Africa and New Zealand. Some 30 pages were on Australia and eight on New Zealand. It may not have been the ideal way, but at least it meant that Simon’s work on New Zealand would see the light of day, even though his guide and friend in New Zealand, Frank Thorpy, would probably have been justified in feeling disappointed at the comparatively brief coverage given to his country. Attractively designed and produced by George Rainbird and

We have waited a long time for such a publication that so delightfully embraces the early history of wine and winemaking in Australia. published by McGraw Hill in 1967, Wines of the world was similar in appearance to the Australian book, and to Simon’s book on champagne. They made handsome additions to any wine library. And so, on December 7, 1966, The vines, vineyards and vignerons of Australia was launched, rather surprisingly at Hardy’s cellars, near Adelaide: many must have expected the launch to be in New South Wales. South Australia’s daily morning newspaper, The Advertiser, apparently did not carry an account of the occasion, but it did publish an

September/October 2017

extensive review written, strangely, by Jack Ludbrook of the Australian Wine Bureau. Ludbrook must have found himself in a compromising position. He had been a major contributor to the book, gathering information, checking for accuracy and proofreading the text. It would surely have been difficult for him to approach a review objectively. In fact, Ludbrook’s piece was more of a description than a review, and probably helped to sell many copies, at least in South Australia. Not that the book needed much help to sell. By the end of 1967 the first print of 4000 copies had sold out. Simon was, of course, thrilled. He wrote excitedly to Lloyd O’NeiI: “I am very happy, indeed, to hear that sales have proved beyond all argument; how right you were when you decided to produce a costly ‘prestige’ book without any financial help - or even promised goodwill from the wine trade of Australia. 3000 sold in three weeks breaks all records by a very long way of all my books - the first of which was published in 1905 - 62 years ago!” The price was $9. Simon and Gibson received many letters of praise. For instance, Colin Gramp, of Orlando Wines, wrote a congratulatory letter to Gibson in December 1966: “We have waited a long time for such a publication that so delightfully embraces the early history of wine and winemaking in Australia, right through to the present generation; and that the Australian wine industry should be greatly indebted to (Simon) and likewise to you in acknowledging Australia as one of the great wine producing”.

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net Commercial solar now stacks up. We’ve seen a real change even just over the past year with people now much more inclined to look to how they can reduce their carbon emissions and display their green credentials.

SOLAR MAKES SENSE NIGEL HOPKINS AGL’s investments in renewable energy and

While solar energy is well established

project the New Energy team is currently

its commitment to transition to lower emission

in the residential market, it has only

involved with is creating the world’s largest

fuel sources by 2050 have been influential for

recently begun emerging as an attractive

residential solar virtual power plant which,

environmentally-minded winemakers.

option for businesses.

once completed, will include 1000 connected

As has the potential of lower-cost electricity

“Until recently, the financial case for

batteries installed in metropolitan Adelaide

at more predictable prices to help enable a

businesses to go solar was not very

homes, and will have an output equivalent to

more cost-effective business future.

compelling. But now that picture has

a 5MW solar peaking plant.

“AGL was founded in 1837 and it’s our

changed. The cost of solar has fallen at the

Landfear says that solar energy is a perfect

corporate history that many winemakers

same time electricity prices have risen and

fit for winemakers: “It all starts with the

can identify with, since they are often from

we now find many customers can achieve a

grapes. Winemakers know that their livelihood

well-established, long-running family-owned

simple payback of three-four years on their

depends on good soil, clean water and lots

companies,” says Doug Landfear, AGL’s

solar systems,” explains Landfear.

of sunshine. As stewards of the land, wine companies have a vested interest in ensuring

Commercial Solar chief. “In addition, we’ve

Then there is also increasing awareness of

been one of the leaders in the development

the impact of climate change. As part of its

of renewable energy projects in Australia,

commitment to customers and to a renewable

“But they are also manufacturing

first with hydro and wind, and most recently

energy future, AGL has established a New

businesses and need a stable power

with two of the largest solar power plants in

Energy division, which Landfear says brings

supply, so we take the time to understand

the country at Nyngan and Broken Hill. Our

together experts in solar, lighting and energy

their unique energy requirements and

investments and track record in renewable

storage who are focused on innovation and

develop a solar solution which optimises

energy gives us enormous experience

technology to help meet consumers’ energy

technical and financial outcomes.”

and insights in the development of energy

needs and expectations as the energy

Aesthetics are also important. “We

solutions for business customers.”

landscape transforms. One innovative

know that visual element is important to

W I N E S TAT E

September/October 2017

the sustainability of their businesses.

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net Kicking goals with power options

It pretty well had everything a winemaker could want except for an affordable source of power.

SPOTLIGHT ON ROB DOLAN ROB Dolan is no stranger to kicking goals.

It pretty well had everything a winemaker

As a Port Adelaide ruckman the “six-foot-

could want except for an affordable

six” tall Dolan once played in two South

source of power.

Australian premiership sides when, as he

“After the blackout in South Australia

says, he was “a lot slimmer and trimmer”.

I decided to make a move,” Dolan

He grew up on a vineyard in the Riverland,

says. Added to this was the rapidly

picking grapes and other fruit as a kid, and

increasing cost of electricity in Victoria

after spending a vintage at Rouge Homme

and the realisation it was time to consider

in Coonawarra he returned to university

becoming more self-sufficient and “doing

and studied winemaking.

the right thing by society in general and

He started kicking goals of another kind when he moved to the Yarra Valley, wineries, so we design our systems not just from a functional aspect, but also for their overall appearance. We work closely with our customers to make sure that we minimise disruption during construction and are mindful of delivering a system that complements the overall aesthetics of the location. “Commercial solar now stacks up. We’ve seen a real change even just over the past year with people now much more inclined to look to how they can reduce their carbon emissions and display their green credentials to their customers. We’re helping businesses to not only lower their electricity bills but also to become more sustainable,” he says.

heading down the green path. It seemed the right time to make some changes.”

first as senior winemaker at Yarra Ridge

He considered three options but chose

and managing Victoria’s Mildara Blass

AGL “because they’re heading down the

operations, then with two highly successful

same path”. At first the figures didn’t add

Yarra Valley brands - Sticks - after his footy

up but “with the changes in the power

nickname - and Punt Road.

prices it became much more logical.”

In 2011, by now with some 20 years’

Dolan also wanted the ability to add

experience making wines in the Yarra

battery storage in the future and liked the

Valley, he purchased the former Accolade

prospect of dealing with “a bigger player

Wines Yarra Burn winery and launched the

who had the strength”.

range of wines bearing his name.

He chose a system that would deliver a

This was regarded as a state of the art

modest 99.84 kW, resulting in an estimated

winery, reportedly “equipped with every

reduction in grid energy consumption

toy a winemaker could possibly hope for”

of 28 per cent using AGL’s solar Smart

and just 30 minutes from Melbourne’s

Plan with zero upfront cost and a seven-

CBD. Dolan describes it as “100 acres in

year power purchase agreement. Taking

the middle of suburbia”, a former farm now

advantage of the extended services AGL

with just “a couple of acres” of vineyard, a

can provide, Dolan’s organisation is now

restaurant and organic vegetable garden,

changing all his lighting to LED fittings.

cheese making facility, a micro brewery -

“The savings initially won’t be much,”

even, for a while, the home of Four Pillars

Dolan says, “but after the third year it will

gin. And, of course, a winery crushing up

really start to pay back.”

to 1700 tonnes annually.

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September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

WorldMags.net

LEADING BY EXAMPLE SPOTLIGHT ON ZILZIE WINES Facing increased consumption and the rising cost of electricity, we wanted to proactively move towards renewable energy resources.

FOR Zilzie Wines managing director Andrew

control is crucial to maintaining the quality of

Forbes going solar was an opportunity to

our wines, and having just made some large

lead by example and build on his winery’s

capital investments to increase productivity

well-established environmental credentials.

and improve efficiencies we could see our

It made a lot of sense financially: “It is not often these days you get presented with an

As one of Australia’s largest winemakers,

opportunity that’s too good to refuse,” he says.

going solar with a 1.06MW ground

The Forbes family settled near Red

and roof-mount system made sense.

Cliffs, 22km south of Mildura in the early

“Facing increased consumption and

1900s. As sizeable winemakers and grape

the rising cost of electricity, we wanted

growers moved into the area in the 1980s

to proactively move towards renewable

the family converted a small portion of their

energy resources,” he says.

property to vineyards. Today they have

Forbes says AGL was fantastic: “In keeping

one of the largest family-owned holdings

with AGL’s commitment to investing in

of vineyards in Australia.

renewable energy, their knowledge of solar

A brief winemaking foray by Forbes inspired

was exemplary, and they took the time to

expansion and a change in direction for the

understand our business needs. What AGL

family business, with its winery built in 1999

provided was not an off-the-shelf system and

and first vintage the following year.

they use reputable brand components that

“Whilst there are the obvious environmental

What sealed the deal, Forbes says, was that

says, “as fourth generation custodians of the

his Smart Plan contract is for 10 years, while

land, my brother Steven and I are committed

the system life expectancy is 25 years: “That

to leaving the property in a healthy and

means 15 years of opportunity for further

sustainable state for our kids.”

expansion, perhaps adding battery storage.

“Electricity is one of the major operating

W I N E S TAT E

are high quality and reliable.”

and economic needs for change,” Forbes

costs of running a winery, as temperature 32

energy consumption increasing.”

September/October 2017

It has very exciting potential.”

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COMMITTED TO SUSTAINABILITY WorldMags.net

SPOTLIGHT ON YALUMBA WHEN people at Yalumba talk about

the electricity consumed in 410

sustainability they don’t just mean a healthy

average South Australian

environment, although that’s among their top

homes, and offset

considerations. It’s also about achieving a

approximately 1080

balance between social, economic and

tonnes of greenhouse

environmental issues, and this is reflected

gas emissions every

in the values of one of Australia’s most

year for an expected

prestigious family-owned wineries.

25 years.

When asked why Yalumba decided

“The process of going

to go solar, managing director Nick

solar was quite simple

Waterman said: “There are numerous

in terms of financial

reasons, but first and foremost is it’s based

outcomes,” Waterman

on our philosophy and commitment to

says. “The challenge for

sustainability. This is embedded in our

us was working out how to

culture and goes back to our founder

connect the large amount of solar

Samuel Smith who named the business

to our existing electrical and mechanical

Yalumba, which means ‘all the land around’

infrastructure. Thankfully the AGL solar

in the local indigenous dialect of the day.

team had all the right people on board

“When we plant vineyards we match the

to navigate this task well. They also put

footprint with natural vegetation to both

a lot of effort into choosing the right sub-

improve the biodiversity within, but also to

contractors so that the processes required

reduce our carbon footprint.

on site ran smoothly. We are very happy

“There is also a compelling commercial

with the end result.”

case, especially as our electricity costs

Waterman says the decision to make

have increased by more than 80 per cent

the solar move with AGL was partly

in the last two years. With more than 5500

because of their existing energy contract

panels now installed, we are able to supply

relationship, but also “because of the

approximately 18 per cent of the power

hardware they use and their in-depth

requirements of the winery.”

analysis of our electrical load profile.

The 1.39MW solar system installation at

“This gave us the confidence in achieving

Yalumba’s Barossa Valley winery is also

a positive financial outcome with very low

one of the largest commercial installations

risk. AGL being a company more than

in South Australia. AGL’s solar system

160 years old, as we are, also gave us

will generate approximately 2050MWh of

confidence in partnering in solar for the next

renewable energy annually, equivalent to

10 years or more.”

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The decision to make the solar move with AGL was partly because of their existing energy contract relationship, but also because of the hardware they use and their in-depth analysis of our electrical load profile.

September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

WorldMags.net 572'4 5'4+175

Shiraz #$176

DAN TRAUCKI THERE is still some conjecture as to exactly

can produce wines that express their unique

succeeded to the extent that today the Vales

where the variety shiraz originated from.

terroir with greater confidence and obtain

is a world-known and highly-regarded wine

Was it the town with that name in what is

the premium such wines warrant.

growing region, especially for shiraz.

now Iran? Or was it from Hermitage as

“We have focused on shiraz because this

At this year’s Wirra Wirra Ringing of the Bell

claimed by the French, or even the Syrian

is the variety that predominates in Australia.

event, to officially launch McLaren Vale’s

variety, Syriaca, mentioned by Pliny the

Shiraz is the most planted variety with 26

vintage, I attended the McLaren Vale Districts

Elder around 2000 years ago?

per cent of Australia’s vineyard area and we

Tasting Tutorial and learned of the region’s

These days there is no question that

have the oldest shiraz vines in the world….”

current and ongoing research project into the

Australia has become the spiritual home

Sometime ago McLaren Vale and the

geology of the McLaren Vale region. This is

of shiraz, in the same way that Argentina

Barossa independently embarked on their

a fascinating exercise whereby five geology

is for malbec and Chile is for carmenere.

own shiraz studies.

pits have been dug throughout the region to

Over the last few decades Australia has

Since the 1990s when the promotion

made shiraz its national hero and in January

of McLaren Vale and its wines started in

Over time the project group has drawn up

this year, Wine Australia announced a $5.3

earnest, the locals have been pushing

profiles of the geology of the whole region and

million project “to understand and refine

hard to establish their region as a unique

classified (so far) 19 different proposed sub-

the expression of Australian shiraz terroir”.

shiraz environment. Over time they have

districts/structures which they have classified

examine and showcase the unique geology.

In launching this project, Dr Brian Croser AO, Wine Australia deputy chair said: “Australia makes wines of exceptional quality and finesse that reflect their provenance and terroir, but they don’t currently receive the international recognition they merit. We are focused on building international recognition for our wines to increase demand and the price paid for all Australian wines. “We already know that unique Australian terroirs exist and that climate, topography, soil chemistry and soil physical properties are the most important factors contributing to the differences between wines from different sites. When we understand how these environmental signals work, we can then understand how winegrowers can refine the expression of terroir and uniqueness in their vineyards, so that they 34

W I N E S TAT E

September/October 2017

WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net Both are serious regional initiatives to analyse their region better in order to understand the impact various factors have on the flavour profile of their shiraz wines.

WorldMags.net

geology and individual vineyard site. The project was established in 2008 to evaluate the wine styles across the Barossa. This undertaking has been all inclusive, with active involvement from PIRSA, soil scientists, viticulturists and winemakers. The Barossa is officially divided into three Geographical Indicators (GIs) - Barossa Valley, Eden Valley and High Eden. The Barossa Grounds Project now proposes three defined localities within the Barossa Valley GI. These are defined as Southern Grounds, Central Grounds and Northern Grounds. Each of these, while being made up of varying micro-climates, soils and landscapes, are deemed to exhibit different and compelling expressions of shiraz. The style of shiraz from each of the grounds is described as: Southern Grounds - medium to full-bodied, generous, lush, as “distinct districts”. These proposed

Having done this, they then selected

elegant and refreshing; Central Grounds

districts take into account not only geology,

the five districts that the tasting group

- medium to full-bodied, generous and

but also the effects of topography, elevation

considered were the most uniquely

vibrant, and Northern Grounds - full-bodied,

and climate. The same distinct profiles can

expressive to use for the tutorial.

opulent, concentrated and rich.

and do appear in more than one area within

Therefore, the five wines we tasted were

The Barossa project is different to the

the region, mainly as a result of geological

each a representational sample of the shiraz

McLaren Vale one because, as advised

upheaval over the millennia.

from its specific geological district.

by Nicki Robins of the Barossa Grape and

As they say: “McLaren Vale is one of the

The fascinating outcome was that there

Tourism Association, “it doesn’t focus on

most geologically diverse wine regions in

was an appreciable difference in the flavours

the geology - rather the soil type above the

the world. More than 40 unique geological

and characters of the different wines from the

geology, soil available water holding capacity,

units are present, ranging in age from less

different districts. For example, the tightest,

climate and elevation - and these combined

than 10,000 years to over 650 million years”.

most austere wine that most needed cellaring

influences on the taste of Barossa shiraz”.

The panel for the tasting tutorial consisted of

came from District 5, down by the coast.

While the approaches of these two areas are

Drew Noon, Michael Fragos, Chester Osborn

“Great,” I hear you say, but what does it all

different, both are serious regional initiatives

and Wes Pearson. They explained that for

mean? Well, while it is still fairly early days,

to analyse their region better in order to

this exercise they had sought 2016 vintage

their aim is to over time identify sub-regional

understand the impact various factors have

shiraz samples from producers within each

characteristics so as to better work with the

on the flavour profile of their shiraz wines.

of 15 out of the19 distinct districts that they

grapes/wines that a district produces. This

It will be very interesting to see how Wine

had identified on the draft geological map

is a serious effort to understand the impact

Australia goes about its $5.3 million research

of the region. The samples from within each

that the geology of the district has on the

project and what tangible outcomes it

district were evaluated by a panel of 12

flavour and wine style of the shiraz.

produces. In the meantime it is the efforts of

winemakers and viticulturists, who blind

The Barossa Valley has undertaken a

both McLaren Vale and the Barossa regions

judged the samples. Other than “out of the

study of its own - the Barossa Grounds

that will keep them ahead of the game and

box” samples (too oaky, etc), the rest were

Project. The “grounds” are an unofficial

firmly “front of mind” in the wine world’s focus

blended together to create a final “district

but locally recognised locality observed

on shiraz/syrah as these two regions are super

sample”. They had very few “rejects”.

through the micro-climate, soil composition,

serious about shiraz!

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September/October 2017

WorldMags.net

S H IRAZ /SYRA H & B LEN D S

WorldMags.net category

For our Top Ten selection this year it was impossible to separate the very high point scores that the judging panels awarded to the wines. Each wine achieved a unanimous 18.5 points from each of the three judges involved. We could have done a “judge off” but decided this year that this would not have done justice to the exceptional quality of the wines involved. At this high level it would have come down to a judges preference rather than a quality decision and that would have been unfair to the bottom wines in any Top ten ranking. Hence the “no particular order” rating was decided.

winners THE STATS that count NUMBER TASTED: 427 NUMBER AWARDED: 354 % awarded: 83.05 NUMBER OF FIVE STARS (Gold Award): 40 % awarded: 9.36

NUMBER OF FOUR & HALF STARS (High Silver Award): 59 % awarded: 13.81 NUMBER OF FOUR STARS (Silver Award): 101 % awarded: 23.65 NUMBER OF THREE & HALF STARS (High Bronze Award): 51 % awarded: 11.94

Under $10

$10-$15

$15-$20

$20-$25

Earthworks Barossa Valley 2016 ★★★1/2 $9.99

Blackstone Paddock The Player Barossa Valley 2015 ★★★★1/2 $12.99

Andrew Peace Wines Estate Swan Hill 2014 ★★★★★ $18

Pirathon Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ $23

$40-$50

$50-$60

$60-$70

$70-$80

$80-$90

Peter Lehmann Eight Songs Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ $45

McLaren Vale III Associates Squid Ink Reserve Single Vineyard Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ $55

d’Arenberg The Dead Arm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ $65

Taylors St Andrews Clare Valley 2014 ★★★★★ $70

Wolf Blass Estates of the Barossa Lyndoch Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ $85

NUMBER OF THREE STARS (Bronze Award): 103 % awarded: 24.29

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September/October 2017

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WorldMags.net FINAL TOP 10 The Top Ten Shiraz as selected by highest judges score in no particular order are: Penfolds Grange 2012 $1,000 Wolf Blass Platinum Medlands Estates of the Barossa 2012 $200 Taylors St Andrews Clare Valley 2014 $70 M. Chapoutier L’Ermite Rhone Valley

$25-$30

$30-$35

$35-$40

Tenafeate Creek Basket Press One Tree Hill 2015 ★★★★★ $28

Scarpantoni Estate Block 3 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 $30

Sanguine Estate Inception Heathcote Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ $39.95

France Syrah 2014 $600 Torbreck The Laird Barossa Valley 2010 $780 McLaren Vale 111 Associates Squid Ink Reserve Single Vineyard Estate McLaren Vale 2015 $55 Pirathon Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 $23 Tenafeate Creek Judgement One Tree Hill Shiraz 2014 $100 Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz 2015 $37.95 Sanguine Estate Inception Heathcote Shiraz 2012 $39.95 Wills Domain Single Vineyard Block 5 2014 $36

TOP FRENCH WINE M. Chapoutier L’Ermite Rhone Valley France Syrah 2014 $600

$90-$100 $100-$200 Haselgrove Wines The Lear McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ $90

Tenafeate Creek Wines Judgement One Tree Hill Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ $100

$200+ Penfolds Grange South Australia Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ $1,000

TOP NEW ZEALAND WINE Church Road Grand Reserve Hawkes Bay New Zealand Syrah 2015 $42

MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII STARTS PAGE 64.

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September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

WorldMags.net CHANGING

TASTES The evolution of shiraz continues as it moves away from the big-bodied style of the late 1990s to becoming a more sophisticated and elegant red.

DAN TRAUCKI THEY say it takes a lot of time and a long

1990s and early 2000s some of our Aussie

Pere 2010), Great Western (Bests Great

distance to turn a juggernaut, and this is

winemakers created shiraz that looked like

Western 2010) and the Adelaide Hills

especially so in the case of one as large and

they were on steroids.

(SC Pannel Syrah 2013), with no Barossa,

complex as the Australian wine industry. In

But at the start of this century the pendulum

McLaren Vale or Clare winner in sight. It

reality our juggernaut has been gradually

started swinging back towards a more

would definitely appear that the judges

changing direction for the last 50-plus years.

natural, elegant and refined shiraz style.

(arguably a reasonable barometer for the

Having been firmly entrenched in the

One of the early evolvers was Canberraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

wine industry) along with consumers are

fortified direction for over 50 years, the

Clonakilla Wines, with its elegant and

headed towards the more sophisticated and

Australian wine industry started to turn

svelte shiraz/viognier blend. This created

graceful spectrum of shiraz.

towards table wines in the early 1960s

a new wine category in the Australian wine

This gradual move to the more elegant and

and has been for the most part gradually

scene and a style that quite a few other

dapper shiraz has been a gradual trend/

changing its direction in one way or another

wineries have since also followed - another

evolution for the variety in Australia. I believe

ever since.

evolutionary step for this variety.

this trend is being mainly driven by younger

There have been a couple of sharp

wine drinkers who are not accustomed to

little turns along the way in the shape of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, as these varieties both shot out of the blocks and changed the balance of the industry in a fairly short space of time. Generally the development of the Australian wine industry has been a process of evolution rather than revolution. Especially if you take into consideration where we are today with the emerging/innovative (alternative) varieties that we have adopted in Australia over the last two decades.

drinking big-bodied, blousy, shiraz, like

The shiraz consumption pendulum is simply swinging away from the big blockbuster end of the spectrum towards the svelte end of the spectrum, irrespective of which region the wine comes from.

The same can be said for the development

most of us older drinkers are. Additionally they prefer to drink their wines straight away rather than tucking them in to storage while they mellow out and achieve their peak. Some may not agree, but stop and consider, as an example, the rise and rise of Heathcote, from a sleepy little area/town, to one of the top four or five most recognised shiraz regions in the country. This has only occurred in just the last two decades because its shiraz is, due to the cool climate, a bit more elegant and svelte than the bigger

of shiraz over the last 70 years. Since Max

Consider the fact that since 2009 when

Schubertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creation of Grange in 1951,

Eden Road Wines won the Jimmy Watson

I am not suggesting that the days of the

shiraz has been gradually evolving to where

Trophy for its 2008 Hill Tops Long Road

bigger style shiraz that, for example, the

it is today. Along the way it encountered

Shiraz, there has only been three other

Barossa is so famous for, are numbered.

an American speed bump, wine critic

shiraz which have won this prestigious

Instead, the shiraz consumption pendulum

Robert Parker, who gave massive points

trophy. All come from cool to cooler climate

is simply swinging away from the big

to monstrously big wines, so that in the

areas of Tasmania (Glaetzer Dixon Mon

blockbuster end of the spectrum towards

W I N E S TAT E

September/October 2017

shiraz from the warmer regions.

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the svelte end of the spectrum, irrespective of which region the wine comes from. Today there are some fairly elegant and sophisticated shiraz being made by some winemakers in the Barossa, McLaren Vale and the Clare Valley, as well as those from the cooler climates. There will always be a place in the market for the big, rich, luscious style of shiraz because lots of drinkers (me included) enjoy that style of shiraz. It is just that their share of the market place is becoming smaller (in an ever growing market) than what it was at the turn of the century. This is mainly as a result of the change in the Australian lifestyle which continues to shift gradually away from the big-slab-of meat-on-the-barbecue style of meal and is moving more towards Asianstyle meals which are more about flavour, balance and style. Who knows what the future might bring. Another Parkeresque messiah may come along and persuade the wine drinkers of the world that Aussie shiraz should once again be uber big and bold, and then the trend would probably swing back the other way. In the meantime I would put my money on the svelte, polished and sophisticated shiraz being the order of the day. At least for the near future the trending trend for shiraz in Australia is the moving away from the big, bold wine styles and is evolving towards â&#x20AC;&#x153;shiraz the sophisticateâ&#x20AC;?.

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September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

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Building On The Past THE RESURGENCE OF VICTORIA’S YARRA VALLEY CONTINUES AS ICONIC SEVILLE ESTATE EMBARKS ON A NEW ERA. MICHAEL HINCE IN the two years since I last wrote about

contribution to the Yarra Valley. His forté

happened. Outwardly it’s still the same

was crafting wines that above all reflected

picturesque, vinous Yarra Valley oasis nestled

the site and variety, a trait that has endured

into the rolling hills engulfing the nearby town

over four decades and continues to typify

of Seville, from which it takes its name.

today’s Seville Estate vintages, no more so

Behind the scenes there’s been a flurry

than in its pristine pinot noirs and crystalline

of activity, new owners are on board

chardonnays. Not bad for a vineyard site

and the revamped cellar door - replete

that was chosen back in 1972 primarily for

with new staff and an enhanced tasting

its panoramic location rather than its terroir!

regime focusing on Reserve vintages - is

This emerging new era is being ushered

attracting more visitors, including plenty

in subliminally in the same low-key, sotto

of inquisitive Chinese. There’s a renewed

voce manner as befits all things Seville

focus on preserving and enhancing the

Estate. The more things change the more

8.08ha vineyard and winemaker Dylan

they stay the same.

McMahon has a twinkle in his eye - all of

The enduring constant at Seville Estate

which suggests the dawn of a new era for

is the integrity, consistency and exemplary

this renowned, much-loved winery.

quality and finesse of its wines. And for this

The Yarra Valley’s resurgence as a

Dylan McMahon can finally take as much

premium, cool-climate producer in the early

credit as his formidable grandfather from

1970s owes much to the likes of McMahon’s

whose shadow he has now emerged. In

genial, self-effacing, grandfather Peter

this context it’s the dawn of a new era,

McMahon, Yarra Yering’s Bailey Carrodus

not that the personable, down-to-earth,

and Mount Mary’s John Middleton - a

demure McMahon would readily proclaim,

formidable vinous triumvirate.

as he, like his grandfather, prefers to let

Peter McMahon’s legacy looms large

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as does his indelible, well-documented

Seville Estate in Winestate much has

September/October 2017

his wines do the talking.

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The success of our wines is due to this great site, soil and the selection of the right vine material; there’s something magical that occurs when this trio of events come together.

And they just don’t “talk”, they sing

For McMahon, quintessential Yarra Valley

sublimely, seductively and seamlessly,

chardonnay embodies purity and focus, with

no more so than the Seville Estate award-

an emphasis on acidity, not just fruit. As for

winning chardonnays.

pinot, vintages like 2002, 2010, 2012 and

“The success of our wines is due to this

2015 (all from milder years with low crops)

great site, soil and the selection of the right

produced balanced wines which had great

vine material; there’s something magical

perfume and texture akin to some of those

that occurs when this trio of events come

of the late 1970s. According to McMahon it’s

together,” says McMahon.

all about perfume and elegance.

“It may sound odd, but when walking

There’s an extensive replanting regime

through the vineyard there is an overwhelming

underway aimed at preserving and enhancing

sense of calmness and euphoria; it’s

the original vines by taking cuttings from them

wonderful to see your wines do well, for me

and grafting to phylloxera-resistant rootstock.

it’s about trying to be as true to style, variety

This is being overseen with renewed vigour

and climate as possible, my role is much a

by viticulturist Andrew Peggie who joined the

caretaker one than anything else.”

estate three years ago.

McMahon continues to do what Seville

Seville Estate sits on red volcanic soils over

Estate has always done well - make wines

a clay base at about 230m above sea level

that, as one wine critic says “capture the

with three main aspects - chardonnay and

fruit expression of the vineyard in styles that

pinot noir are planted on the south and east-

reflect the cool climate”. Ones that are true

facing slopes, while later ripening varieties

to variety, style and site - as exemplified

such as shiraz and cabernet sit mainly on

by the 2004, 2008, 2011, 2013 and 2015

a north-facing slope.

chardonnays - all of which show vintage

McMahon is certainly one of the best

conditions at their best, especially the

winemakers in the Yarra Valley, but he’s a

fragrant 2015 vintage.

much better bloke than he is a winemaker.

Mind you it was not always so, as some of

A sentiment that would be echoed by many

Peter McMahon’s early chardonnays were

who know him - after all he’s a McMahon -

a bit hit and miss, the stellar 1980 vintage

need I say more.

being an exception. Not so now!

This page top: Winemaker, Dylan McMahon. Opposite page and above: A selection of images showcasing Seville Estate.

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September/October 2017

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State of Origin:: Where do your favourite varietals come from? Think you know where Sauvignon Blanc and Malbec originated? Vin de France will show you why going back to their origins can give you a whole new wine experience. When you think of what Australian wine-lovers drink, most people would probably tell you that they love shiraz (syrah), cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay – and with good reason. These are by far the most common grape varieties grown in Australia. If the name

Vin de France represents tradition but also having fun. – Gérard Bertrand, celebrated winemaker

wasn’t already a give-away, the majority of Australian consumers would know that these varieties are of French origin.

Created in 2009, the Vin de France category allows France’s best

More recently however, Australians have been branching out,

winemakers from across the country to explore these original

willing to try varieties which provide different taste profiles and

French varieties and develop wine profiles that take these grapes

seeking a new wine experience.

to new heights. Arnaud Saget, from Saget la Perrière Wines, is

Two of the best examples of these are the rise (and rise!) of

one such winemaker who is looking to explore new profiles in his

sauvignon blanc and the smash hit that is malbec. For many

range of sauvignon blanc. “Vin de France gives us the chance

consumers, these two wines evoke strong ideas of two specific

to craft the perfect blend for varietally-labelled sauvignon blanc

countries: New Zealand and Argentina respectively. Yet both of

and pinot noir... sauvignon blanc has to be very aromatic with

these grape varieties are considered to have originated from

a heavy attack in the mouth and mineral sensation at the back,

France, and it’s there that you’ll find the real experts in crafting

which is almost impossible with 100% sauvignon from the south,

these varieties to perfection.

or 100% sauvignon from the Loire, but by using a blend of

VIN DE FRANCE wines available in Australia:

Bouchard Aîné & Fils Héritage du Conseiller Pinot Noir

Villa La Vie en Rose Négrette

(Also available: Merlot)

Simonnet Febvre 100 séries Chardonnay

Le Chat Noir Pinot Gris

Lajolie Cabernet Sauvignon

La Petite Perrière Pinot Noir Rosé

Le Jardin de Fleurs Syrah

(Also available: Pinot Noir)

(Also available: Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir)

(Also available: Pinot Noir Red, Sauvignon Blanc)

(Also available: Chardonnay, Carbernet Sauvignon)

(Also available: Chardonnay)

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Malesan Cabernet Sauvignon

Maison Castel Chardonnay

JP. Chenet Sauvignon Blanc

September/October 2017

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winestatepromotion

VIN DE FRANCE BEST VALUE SELECTION HITS THE HOT SPOT AT VINEXPO For the first time, from 18 – 21 June VIN DE FRANCE was part of the bi-annual European wine trade fair VINEXPO to showcase the 138 awarded wines at the Best Value Selection 2017 to visitors – both international buyers and press. Feedback on the wines was very positive. The booth also presented the new visuals from the advertising campaign for VIN DE FRANCE wines and our slogan “VIN DE FRANCE: Share the joy of life”. VIN DE FRANCE wines are the embodiment of this emotion – an invitation to find joy and share this joy with friends and family.

sauvignon from the Loire and the south of France we can make something that is very accessible,” he says.

Villa’s La Vie en Rose, a beautiful Vin de France Négrette rosé,

French producers have also been using the global popularity of

proved to be a big hit at this

malbec to rediscover the roots of this sun-loving grape varietal.

year’s So Frenchy So Chic

Some of the big-name Burgundian producers have been bringing

festival in Sydney. Why not

their unique savoir-faire to bear, using techniques honed in their

try some for yourself and see why it was the talk of the town! For more ideas, check out ANIVIN DE FRANCE’s website: www.vindefrancewines.com #vindefrancewines © Karl Schwerdtfeger

own region’s native grapes to experiment and add an old-school flavour to these upstart varieties. This has only been possible through the Vin de France category and provides an exciting opportunity for wine-lovers of all ages to experience a blend of new varietals and centuries-old tradition. As Gérard Bertrand, head of Gerard Bertrand SPH explains, “The best thing about Vin de France is that it offers winemakers a new way of doing things. It represents tradition but also having fun within that framework, which is really important as wine is so much more than just a cultural product.” Indeed, for those Australian consumers who are new to the world of wine, Vin de France wines are the perfect place to start; easy to understand with the varieties on the label, consistent ANIVIN DE FRANCE will support its next promotion in Australia through the Share the Joy of Life campaign.

products to come back to year after year, and the quality that comes from French traditional wine-making techniques, all for the right price! You can check out the full range of Vin de France wines and discover new tastes to try on ANIVIN DE FRANCE’s website.

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September/October 2017

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winestatepromotion

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safe haven THERE IS AN ART TO SAFELY STORING AND GRACEFULLY AGEING FINE WINES, AND WINE ARK HAS MASTERED ALL THE CELLARING SKILLS. DAN TRAUCKI MOST of Australia’s wine enthusiasts don’t have a cellar and with the recent outlandish escalation in housing prices, that ain’t going to change any time soon. So the choices are to tuck their pride-and-joy bottles in a sock drawer, cupboard or foam wine box and hope for the best. Sometimes this works, while other times it turns out to be a disaster. Even when it turns out fine (they drink the wine before it heads down the slippery slope) there is a severe constraint on how many bottles can be stored around the flat/ house before it becomes a major issue. Some people ask that if it is such an issue, why bother to cellar wine in the first place? Surely in this “instant age” it is ready to drink when sold? Well, thanks to our tax laws, winemakers can’t afford to hold on to their wines so as to release them when they are at their best. Even Grange is now released at four years instead of the five years that it used to be. While Grange is pretty good when released, it becomes sensational when it is 15 to 25 years old. This same principal applies to most quality red wines and some varieties of white wines, as a 10-to-20-year-old Clare riesling or Hunter semillon can be divine. These wines evolve, develop and usually become sublime. Another great reason for cellaring wine is if you want to keep it to give to somebody for a special birthday or anniversary. The look on people’s faces as they unwrap a bottle of wine from their vintage is priceless and if it has been cellared professionally

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it should be delectable as well. For

are struggling to fit all the “wine list” stocks in

example, for our 25th and 30th wedding

the confined spaces of their own premises.

history) which is a distinct advantage. Wine Ark even produces a “Top 50” list

anniversaries my wife and I enjoyed some

Despite the common perception that wine

of Australia’s most collected wines, based

truly divine 1986 wines - both red and

storage is expensive, the monthly cost of

on data from its storage facilities around

white. I have recently bought some great

storing a 12-pack of bottles at Wine Ark is

the country, which is a true reflection of

2014 reds to cellar in order to celebrate

around about the same as that of a cup of

which wines are collectables as opposed

friend’s children being born that year. I may

coffee. Furthermore, the wines are stored in

to industry hype about what is selling well.

be nudging my “use by date” by 2032, but

a temperature controlled, secure environment

These are the wines that will be available

I know that the wines will be in great shape

which is fully insured and with an online stock

in the best possible condition in future

for their children’s 18th birthday parties, or

management system. Let’s face it, every wine

auctions.

in 2035 for their 21st birthdays.

aficionado has at least a few “extra special”

Speaking of condition, at Wine Ark the

bottles that deserve this sort of Rolls-Royce

condition of the bottles (ullage, label

cellaring treatment.

condition, etc) is recorded on to the stock

These days it is easier to cellar and give a special vintage bottle with confidence as we are coming up on 18 years since the

management system as the wines enter

Aussie industry adopted the screwcap, with

storage so as to provide the owner with

no more worries about the gift bottle being ruined by cork taint or oxidation. So be it for your partner, your anniversary, your kid’s milestone birthdays or even those of your grandchildren, buying good wines when they are released and cellaring them until the appropriate time, is now practical and will pay huge dividends. Doing this need not cost the earth. There are all sorts of storage facilities available around the country, from lock-up sheds to “uber”

You can store anywhere from a single to a dozen or more bottles of your super-special wines for anniversaries, birthdays and special occasions, which deserve all the TLC possible.

professional companies like Wine Ark.

a comprehensive report, including the Provenance Program should they wish to sell any of their wines. This service includes attaching a Wine Ark Provenance sticker to the bottles. This gives prospective buyers comfort that the wine they are buying have been professionally cellared. Additional services that Wine Ark provide include wine education, with informative articles about wine growing regions of the world on its website, wine tastings (both winery specific masterclasses, varietal and

Wine Ark does significantly more than just

regional tastings) and the Wine Ark Vintage

store wine for big-time collectors. It is set up to

By storing that special bottle of wine off-

Wine Room. The room lists and sells wines

handle a wide range of wine storage options

site it helps you to plan ahead to access it

on behalf of clients. Wine Ark staff can assist

tailored to suit situations for the private and

for the right occasion, which puts a stop to

in valuing wines so that they are offered for

commercial sectors. You can store anywhere

the often heard tale about opening “uber”

sale at a realistic price. The wines are then

from a single to a dozen or more bottles of

special wines by accident towards the end

listed directly out of the client’s storage and

your super-special wines for anniversaries,

of a long, winey dinner.

are available for viewing within the vintage

birthdays and special occasions, which

The alternative to buying wine young

wine room. The wines come with their history

deserve all the TLC possible. And for wineries,

and cellaring it has always been that you

and provenance for the buyer’s absolute

it can also accommodate commercial

can play Russian roulette by buying the

confidence.

volume storage such as advance stock for

bottles you want already matured at open

Wine Ark has 16 locations around the

an upcoming event, a temporary overflow

auctions, but then you take the risk of

country, making it fairly easy for you to place

from their own facility, longer-term maturation

not knowing how they have been stored.

your very special bottles into its capable

storage or storage of the winery’s museum

Now, however, thanks to Wine Ark, the

care until you need them.

stocks so that the wines don’t “evaporate”

wines stored at its facilities that do go on

over time. It also caters for restaurants that

sale have a known provenance (storage

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Here is cheers to enjoying perfectly matured wines!

September/October 2017

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brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL

DON’T be fooled by the name - King Tea is not the place to go if you’re looking for a nice, strong cuppa. Paddington, in Brisbane’s inner west, has a vibrant new eatery that takes its name from the snack bar that occupied the building back when the shopping complex Paddington Central across the road was still a tram depot. The interior is rustic, relying on features of the bygone era - exposed beams and bare brick walls with a bar and kitchen running the length of the room. Seating is at high communal tables or you can gather around wine barrels at the front of the old shopfront. There’s not a cucumber sandwich or macaron to be found on the menu, rather a Spanish-inspired line up of tapas from the southern coast of Spain featuring the familiar and popular - patatas bravas, croquettes of varying flavours, plates of cured meats and fragrant grilled octopus. Spain remains the main influencer of the wine list and there’s a good list of interesting beers and cocktails. Co-owner Dane Huitfeldt is working on a laneway between the bar and his other venue, Hai Hai, a casual little Japanese ramen joint next door. The third venue, Remy’s, which specialises in burgers and beers served in a leafy courtyard at the front of the venue, is just one door away, so King Tea completes an eclectic trio of watering holes that Paddington locals are flocking to. 100 Latrobe Tce, Paddington; phone (07) 3368 2889. There’s plenty to say “Hai Hai” (which translates to “Yes, Yes”) to on the modest menu of bowls of ramen and sides - think daily bao’s, delicious peanut and crispy onion-laden seaweed slaw, sweetcorn 48

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dripping in miso butter and karaage chicken with lemon and kewpie mayo. Carbo-phobes will love the fact that you can swap out your noodles for extra greens, you can also add menma (bamboo) and an extra soft, marinated egg to bolster up the protein ante. 102 Latrobe Tce, Paddington; phone (07) 3876 5947. Johnny’s Pizza - serving up delicious eats and killer beats. That’s the strapline for the latest addition to the ever-growing Moubarak Group, a family of siblings which has also brought award winning gems like Gerard’s Bistro and Gerard’s Bar, La Ruche, Hatch & Co and the Apo. Located in buzzing Bakery Lane in the heart of The Valley, at the front of which is The Apo, Johnny’s Pizza is about as throwback ’70’s kitch as it comes, complete with threads of chillies and garlic hanging from the ceiling, shelves full of aperol and campari bottles and disco beats bouncing off the walls of the curving laneway through which red-checked clothed tables are dotted. The menu is clipped to say the least - five classico and five gourmet pizzas make up the bulk of the menu, there is a rocket salad to accompany and an antipasto to precede. Dessert comes in liquid form and involves liberal amounts of aperol, prosecco and amaro montenegro. Open for lunch through the week it’s a quieter vibe, but as the sun sets the mood morphs into party mode, the beats crank up and hand-stretched dough is literally flying around the open kitchen. Bakery Lane, 694 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; phone 0474 564 669. There’s another new Italian, this one equally as casual although slightly less colourful, at

September/October 2017

Gasworks in Newstead in Brisbane’s inner north. In the ever-expanding precinct, which is home to the previously mentioned Hatch & Co, Reef Seafood, Peng You Modern Asian and Buzz Cafe & Bistro as well as food shopping mecca Standard Market Company, Sydney-based Italian Street Kitchen opened earlier in the year much to the delight of locals. Self described as a “streetside cafeteria” with stations where you can serve yourself pizza, pasta and coffee, there’s also a hearty menu to choose from that includes a range of antipasto, pasta dishes, salads and sides as well as spit roast beef and lamb served with a radicchio salad and rosemary and garlic potatoes. For a quick bite of lunch check out the panini’s filled with wood-fired pork belly with salsa verde, lamb with horseradish and rocket or classic Napoli meatballs with fresh basil and parmigiana reggiano. Opening out on to the street overlooking parklands and a soon to be constructed high rise called Haven, which will be home to more popular food outlets such as Betty’s Burgers, Salt Meats Cheese and a new concept from the team at Jocelyn’s Provisions. havenapartments.com.au

Top: Johnny’s Pizza Restaurant. Middle: Delicious toasty sandwich from Apo restaurant. Bottom: Cocktails from Apo restaurant.

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melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN

IT MAY sound odd that restaurateurs and chefs are embracing seafood more than ever before in Melbourne restaurants, but there has definitely been a resurgence in pushing more seafood dishes on menus - rather than opening strictly seafood restaurants - and emphasising the goodness of Australian produce and the rising demand of quality tinned seafoods, mostly imported from Europe. Neptune, in the suburb of Prahran, is a collaboration of long-time hospitality professionals Nic Coulter and Simon Blacher who own Hanoi Hannah, Saigon Sally and Tokyo Tina alongside brothers Dave and Michael Parker who are two of the owners of Peruvian and Argentinian dining rooms Pastuso and San Telmo. The four have set up a wine bar, bottle shop and eatery and taken influences from far-and-wide sailing mostly through the Mediterranean. When it comes to seafood, there’s roasted sardines, snapper crude, fritto misto as well as meaty dishes like hanger steak and roasted hen. They have a premium canned seafood section on the menu where preserved seafood like Arroyabe tuna belly comes with pickled onion, capers and parsley; cockles (Cabo De Pena) are dressed with Calabrian chilli oil and fleshy Cuca anchovies are served with tomato and red pepper. The 300-bottle wine list is an intelligent and broad selection, and the 140-seater is rich with moody lighting, dark woods and against bare-brick walls. 212 High St, Prahran; phone (03) 9533 2827. Chef Jesse Gerner, the brains behind Fitzroy’s Anada and Bomba in the CBD, and Green Park, his cafe in Carlton North, has opened Nomada at the other end of Fitzroy in what was formerly cafe Hammer & Tong. Gerner has gone into business with chefs Jesse McTavis and Greg McFarland, who were both on the pans at renowned cafe Kettle Black, Shane Barrett, from wineshop Samuel Pepys and Michael Burr, also of Bomba. They have started with brunch and lunch emphasising tapas, with a view to eventually be an all-day eatery with a license until 1am. Small, medium or large dishes are priced at $5, $9 or $15 each. The commitment to the production of the elements of the menu is outstanding - cabbages

are fermented, dried and ground into a salt substitute, olives are aged in hessian sacks for two weeks and anchovies are locally caught from Lake’s Entrance. There are montaditos (little Spanish sandwiches), blue eye croquettes with fennel emulsion, orange-laced pumpkin porridge with almond milk among a seasonal, quality selection of plates. It’s small, only 50-seats, but has been given a splash of Euro-touches with hand-pressed tile bar, hand-stitched leather upholstery and touches of (fake) fur. Filter and espresso coffees from their own roastery keep all the inner-northern tastes sated and there’s a quirky list of wines and sherries. Sherry for brunch? They’ll encourage you to go there. 412A Brunswick St, Fitzroy; phone (03) 9416 4102. If you’ve been to Melbourne and committed to the wait for a bowl of pasta at Tipo00 on Little Bourke St, the good news is that they’ve opened a second restaurant - Osteria Ilaria - next door. The not-so-good-news is that it’s not a pasta venue, well, so say the owners, but there is a handful of pastas on this menu that are grabbing as much attention as the asparagus tortellini did when Tipo00 opened in 2014. There’s the prawn-oil-infused paccheri, hefty tubes of pasta over sweet tomato and herby sorrel sauces, with the plump prawns and their oil both balancing the dish out. The nettle gnocchi is another dish that has sent social media into overdrive tossed with blue cheese and chopped roasted almonds, it’s a dish all its own or is proving a wicked match for the roast cornfed duck with crisp skin, juicy confit leg, grilled radicchio and toasted hazelnuts. But there certainly are other dishes - the no pasta dishes - where calamari is served with saffron and baccala, or a pork liver sausage

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is served against spiced sourdough and sweetened with rhubarb. A baby octopus, flattened, grilled until its slightly charred, is on top of a feisty ’nduja sauce and whole whiting stars in a dish of simple execution with pippies and sea herbs. Andreas Papadakis will head up the osteria with Tipo00’s coowner and manager Luke Skidmore. This leaves Tipo00 in the safe hands of co-owner and chef Alberto Fava, who has been at Tipo00 since day one. Like Tipo00, Osteria Ilaria has been designed by Skidmore’s architect sister Briony Morgan. It’s a contemporary space framed with bare white brick walls and timber. There’s room for 90 seats plus a private dining room for 16. So you may have to wait, but hopefully not as long. 367 Little Bourke St, Melbourne; phone (03) 9642 2287.

Top: The team from Neptune restaurant. Above: Delicious food from Nomada restaurant.

September/October 2017

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sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING

WHAT happens when a cuisine becomes so popular that an outpost springs up in every suburb? In the case of Chinese, Indian, Lebanese and more, it gets a contemporary makeover. There’s still plenty of restaurants offering traditional Middle Eastern menus, but over the past few years Sydney has witnessed the opening of upmarket Turkish eateries like Anason and Stanbouli. The Thievery at Glebe sparked queues for its sophisticated Lebanese plates and now Nour has raised the bar further in terms of decor and adventurous, elegant listings. The team behind Nour, Ibby Moubadder and Eleanor Harris, established their culinary cred with Cuckoo Callay, a quirky Newtown cafe where the main magnet is bacon-dominant brunch dishes. There’s no other connection. Nour fills the location once occupied by Japanese stalwart Tokonama and the slick 120-seat interior is a meisterwerk by DS17, the designers responsible for some of Sydney’s most arresting fit-outs, including Beta Bar and Lotus. Nour means “light” in Arabic and the blend of oak, marble and white concrete reflects the choice of name. The restaurant has appeared on the popular SBS TV show Chef’s Line, and the team in charge of the food and wine are stars in their field. Master of Wine Ned Goodwin curated the Mediterranean-inclined wine list featuring bottlings from Greece, Italy and Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley. The brigade in the open kitchen comprises executive chef Roy Ner (ex-Aria), head chef Nader Shayeb (ex-Moro in London) and Ran Kimelfeld, who worked the ranges at Tel Aviv’s notable Raphael restaurant. Even the cocktails in the front end bar, including Aida Martini and Ramman Sbritz, have a strong Levantine theme. Share plates are the thing, of course. But it’s a smart move to select three or four and opt for one of the main dishes if you’re dining a deux. The old city mix is a lure for offal lovers - yogurt flatbread filled with chicken hearts, livers and spleen - and the cauliflower falafel is an eye-opener for veggie fans. Nour’s version of hummus is light years away from the ubiquitous supermarket dip and is an object lesson in why the chickpea spread became so loved. Eggplant is another constant in Lebanese cuisine and the charcoal eggplant, complemented by pickled green tomatoes and goat’s curd emulsion, justifies the regional

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addiction. We shared two main dishes, hence my warning to pick one between two. The lamb shoulder is a 400g hunk of succulent meat with mograbiah (a large type of couscous) and date dressing - more than enough to keep one person’s hunger pangs at bay for a day or more. The black cardamom chicken with mushrooms, butter-poached kohlrabi and creamed corn was just the sort of fork-tender poultry of culinary dreams. The serving of two large breasts was more than enough to share, especially following one of the star turns of the menu - the Lebanese dumplings packed with spiced pumpkin. Deconstructured, as in an Armani suit, is the best way to kick off a discussion about the desserts. Baklava our way is a still life go-together of filo pastry shards, goat’s milk mousse and cashews. We passed on the pumpkin cheesecake because of the dumplings. Our waiter was keen for us to try the Lebanese bombe alaska, so we indulged him. A bit of fun from the kitchen and true to Nour’s guiding concept of the right mix of ingredients - the singed meringue hid a mouth-tingling blend of ice and creamy custardy mousse. One of the best Sydney restaurant openings of the past year. Nour Sydney, Shop 3, 490 Crown St, Surry Hills; phone (02) 9331 3413. My first experience of Mordeo was through its Festa del Vino promotion. For only $35 a head, diners were offered eight tasting stations of Mediterranean-style food from Spanish charcuterie through pasta and oysters matched with keg wines from Printhie of Orange. When we arrived the queue of attendees snaked across the starkly modern surroundings of Deutsche Bank Place in the CBD. Mordeo means “devour” in Italian and the emphasis is on cooking from the Med from the European side. Owned by the Aspros brothers - Nicholas, George and Stephen of the famed fish retailing family, Mordeo has become a default choice for the corporates and workers from the adjacent office buildings for a quick coffee, a relaxing cocktail or a first-rate lunch or dinner. After 8.30pm the phone rings constantly for takeaway orders from discerning diners putting in overtime who fancy a lot more than a fast food chain pizza. The five super-sized lampshades create an intimate atmosphere within a

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building dedicated to Bauhaus principles. The premises are split into three - the Pasta and Panini Bar, the Grow Salad Bar and the Bistro and Bar. No matter what the weather there’s a warm indoor feel and many of the regulars are on a first name basis with the staff. What they drink is just as important as their food choices, whether its Gabrielle or Campos coffee, craft beers such as Stone & Wood on tap, or the sort of wine matches made for the Med-inspired menu from France, Spain and Australia. It was a chilly, rainy night, so we chose the chorizo croquetas as a starter super-light croquettes with manchego cheese, pickled vegetables and chilli-flavoured aioli. The grilled Cypriot haloumi and hummus with wood-fired flatbread were given due consideration before we plumped for the Clarence River grilled octopus with fennel and radicchio salad. A couple of corporates at the next table were hoeing into the 12-hour roast beef short rib - grass-fed MSA angus with smoked mash potato. Mordeo has built up a formidable rep for its pasta, so it was a tussle between the Hervey Bay prawn linguine and the tortellini special of the day. The plump pasta pillows were served on a bed of parsnip puree for an inspired taste contrast. The side of caramelised brussels sprouts with Pedro Ximenez was too much of a temptation to ignore. To finish, the affogato with Fra Angelico proved a boozy finish worthy of this CBD gem. Mordeo Bistro & Bar, 126, Philip St, Sydney; phone (02) 9232 1304. Mini empires have become a strong trend in Sydney dining. Eugenio Maiale opened A Tavola in Darlinghurst before branching out to Bondi and opening Flour Eggs Water in the Tramsheds in Glebe. He opened Besser in Crown St late last year - named after the brick, not the German word for better. Maybe the timing was a bit off, but in May Maiale renamed the premises Flour Eggs Water, a second incarnation of his successful pasta bar. It’s all about home-made pasta, as the name implies, and wines from the keg are also a major point of difference. One of the delights of the constantly changing menu is the truffled macaroni cheese. Flour Eggs Water, 3/355 Crown St, Surry Hills; phone (02) 9331 1611. Above left: Charcoal jumbo asparagus green freekah, house salted cow curd, raspberries from Nour. Above right: Lebanese bombe alaska with avocado ice cream and sour cherry from Nour.

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Sails on Lavender Bay

WorldMags.net Sails on Lavender Bay is one of Sydneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest running restaurants, in operation continually over the past 40 years. 7KH UHVWDXUDQW LV ORFDWHG RQ WKH IRUHVKRUH RI 6\GQH\Â·V PDJQLÃ&#x20AC;FHQW KDUERXU DW /DYHQGHU %D\ ZLWK SRVWFDUG YLHZV RI WKH 6\GQH\ 2SHUD +RXVH DQG +DUERXU %ULGJH ,W LV D SHUIHFW YHQXH IRU WKRVH ZDQWLQJ WR H[SHULHQFH WKH TXLQWHVVHQWLDO EHDXW\ RI 6\GQH\ ,Q WKH UHVWDXUDQW KDG D FRQWHPSRUDU\ PDNH RYHU ZLWK QHZ ZLQGRZV WR HQKDQFH WKH DPD]LQJ 6\GQH\ +DUERXU YLHZ

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Restaurant Hours

Lunch

Dinner

(noon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3pm)

(6pm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; late)

Tuesday - Sunday

Monday â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Saturday

Sails on Lavender Bay 2 Henry Lawson Avenue,McMahons Point WorldMags.net Sydney NSW, Australia

+61 2 9955 5998 info@sailslavenderbay.com www.sailslavenderbay.com

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hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS

2017 has arguably been the year for Wan Chai. The relatively unassuming C ro s s L a n e a n d Wo o d R o a d h a v e evolved from a tucked-away part of the neighbourhood to a flourishing dining hub, paving the way for a new slew of high-class Japanese restaurants. Takumi by Daisuke Mori, Sushi Masataka and Kaiseki Den have all sprung up and have been booked solid for weeks, as Hong Kong rekindles its love of one of Japan’s greatest culinary exports. T h e o n e - M i c h e l i n s t a r re d Takumi Daisuke Mori is a delectable hybrid of picturesque Parisian cuisine with all the precision and knife skills of a Japanese chef who has trained in France, which is exactly what chef Daisuke Mori. Having cut his teeth at the one-Michelin starred Restaurant Taillevant in Paris before working his way to the Michelin starred Signature at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo and then the three Michelin starred Chateau at Joel Robuchon Tokyo, Daisuke Mori has settled on Hong Kong as his next project. The result, then, is a refined take on Japanese classics. The standout dish is the wagyu beef, which is sourced from some of Japan’s finest beef cattle-rearing destinations, Saga (south), Hida (central) and Sendai (north), and Chef Mori does every cut of beautiful top-grade wagyu justice. Reflecting unsurpassed quality and the cattle’s healthy upbringing, 52

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the meat’s dense marbling allows for an extraordinarily rich, tender and flavoursome bite. One day advance booking is recommended. Takumi Daisuke Mori, Shop 1, The Oakhill, 16 Wood Road, Wan Chai, phone +852 2574 1299. Sushi Masataka t h o u g h p e r h a p s less grand than Takumi Daisuke Mori, certainly has no less of an impact with one of the ultimate omakase experiences currently available in town. Under the helm of executive chef, Masataka “Masa” Fujisawa, Sushi Masataka offers an intimate 9-seat sushi counter in a 1,200 square foot space, formerly known as Rozan that had a dedicated following among Hong Kong’s sushi lovers. Sourcing the freshest produce from Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji Market, Masa’s signature serves include, fatty tuna sushi and steamed abalone and liver sauce. Lovers of the hard stuff will be delighted too, as Sushi Masataka has one of the most extensive sake and Japanese whisky lists in Wan Chai, making a decadent pairing with Masa’s moorish magic. Sushi Masataka, Shop 2, G/F The Oakhill, 18 Wood Road, Wan Chai, phone +852 2574 1333. Now from omakase to kaiseki. The one Michelin starred Kaiseki Den has been given a full makeover with a menu to match. In the precarious world of Michelin stardom, it has retained its one Michelin-starred

September/October 2017

status every year since 2010 due to Chef Saotome’s knife skills that have been honed for over 30 years and the consistently excellent fresh ingredients. The ten-course set menu includes a rich tapestry of land and sea gems, including lobster sashimi, sea urchin truffled rice, grilled kinki fish and of course, wagyu beef tenderloin, sourced straight from Kagoshima and delicately marbled and deliciously tender. Don’t leave without trying the luxuriously varied wine list and sake menu, but be prepared to part with a fair amount of dollar. Kaiseki Den, Shop 3-4, The Oakhill, 28 Wood Road, Wan Chai, phone +852 2851 2820. Top left: Kaiseki Den. Top right: Sushi Masataka. Bottom: Takumi Daisuke Mori.

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adelaidegrapevine

FOR nearly 20 years The Pot Food and Wine has been a comfortable and popular institution with a loyal, largely local, clientele. At times it’s been a stepping stone for some highly talented chefs, at others it’s slid a little sideways on the culinary radar. Not any longer, with the recent appointment of highly-skilled chef Emma McCaskill, who’s had stints at such luminary restaurants as Tetsuyas, Tokyo’s two Michelin-starred Narisawa and most recently as co-head chef at Magill Estate with husband Scott Huggins, where they together won a major award as South Australia’s Chef of the Year. Although still a tiny, 30 or so seater, this is a restaurant that has undergone plenty of transition since it began as The Melting Pot and the first in serial restaurateur Simon Kardachi’s now extensive restaurant empire. And along with its new chef it is about to undergo yet another transformation and name change to The Pot by Emma McCaskill, along with a modest more contemporary redesign of its interior. It’s a terrific opportunity for McCaskill to bring together a diverse range of culinary influences, Western and Asian, while still satisfying the unrelenting demands of the local clientele. She’s assisted by an excellent wine list in the care of experienced sommelier Michael Murphy, with a string focus on food and wine pairing that is best exemplified by The Pot’s Last Friday of the Month lunches of four courses with matching wine. McCaskill’s early menus cover broad ground, with one of her most recent offering everything from a chuck steak cheeseburger to Comte gougeres with cauliflower and herring roe or a sophisticated steamed and fried Chinese bun filled with roasted pork with chilli sauce and Szechuan salt among the starters, to fenugreek chicken with celeriac three ways - roasted, pickled and pureed, with a salad of lovage leaves, or waygu rump cap with broccolini and a sesame and miso paste. 160 King William Rd, Hyde Park; phone (08) 8373 2044. Open for weekend breakfast and lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday. With a name that means “fire house” in Japanese, Shobosho takes things literally starting with a vast wood oven and an impressive fire line of hydraulic grill, rotisserie

and customised yakitori grill in an open kitchen that runs the length of the restaurant and takes nearly a third of its space. It’s part of the reason Shobosho has become one of the hottest places in town and another example of Adelaide-based Studio-Gram’s award-winning design work, delivering a range of seating options from along the kitchen bar, providing some of the best kitchen theatre around, to individual tables and booths. Chef Adam Liston’s menu is equally fire-powered with strong Korean and Japanese influences in dishes such as raw yellowfin tuna with charred edamame and black wild rice, skewered chicken meatballs with raw egg yolk in taro sauce from the yakatori menu, or spit-roasted Barossa chicken (with feet attached) from the rotisserie. Best approach is to sit at the bar and choose one of the “feed me” menus, with wines to match by the glass from an eclectic and interesting list that features plenty of sake. 17 Leigh Street, Adelaide; phone (08) 8366 2224. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday. It may be the oldest licensed venue in its original location in South Australia, dating from 1838, but the Queens Head’s menu is as contemporary as it comes. All the usual pub favourites are there as weekly bar specials, from top notch woodoven pizzas and burgers to a massive plate of mixed grilled ribs, but the restaurant menu, served in a small, well-dressed and relatively quiet dining room, sparkles with dishes such as wood-oven roasted pulled lamb shoulder with pumpkin wedges on miso-infused hummus, or whole roasted cauliflower with pancetta and hazelnut crumble. Despite its compact size, there are plenty of dining

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NIGEL HOPKINS

options, from covered courtyard to discrete dining spaces around the front bar, with a kid’s menu that would tempt most grown-ups. 117 Kermode St, North Adelaide; phone (08) 8267 1139. Open for lunch and dinner daily. The Crafers Hotel continues to grow as one of Australia’s most interesting pub dining destinations. There aren’t many suburban pubs where you can start with a 1920 vintage Chateau Mouton Rothschild at $11,000, straight from owner Ed Peter’s private cellar, to go with the usual pub grub of burgers and schnitzels, although you can go upmarket with beef bourguignon or duck confit with rhubarb compote, while chef and avid fisherman Ben Carli’s seafood dishes such as mussels with saffron and white wine are always a treat. There’s a much more down to earth wine list as well to go with a menu that sees customers drawn from around the Adelaide Hills and across the city. But then, a half bottle of Chateau Guiraud sauternes at $1400 really would be perfect with the creme brulee to finish. 4 Main St, Crafers; phone (08) 7099 2012. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Top left: The Pot restaurant. Below: Shobosho chicken meatballs. Bottom: Shobosho restaurant interior photo credit Josie Withers.

September/October 2017

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winewords

ANDREW CHERRY SENIOR WINEMAKER - ALKOOMI WINES

SKYE MURTAGH

Was it always your plan to ultimately make wine somewhere in WA? My intention was always to go where there was great fruit and great wines. While working in the Clare Valley at O’Leary Walker wines, the opportunity arose to take the assistant winemaker position at Alkoomi. I knew the wines were excellent from my days working in hospitality and took the job without having visited Frankland River or the winery. Being closer to my family was also a drawcard, although the initial drive down from Perth through farming country in the height of a dry summer was a little unnerving. My wife looked at me from the passenger seat and said: “OMG! We haven’t seen a house or a car for the last hour! What have we done?” As it turns out, we’ve done the right thing and been happily living on the Alkoomi property, surrounded by vines, paddocks and some of the most fabulous people we could ever hope to meet and doing a job that I love.

PERTH-BORN winemaker Andrew Cherry may not have grown up in a winemaking family, but as he sees it, “enjoying a good bottle and amazing food, surrounded by my family, is certainly something that has always brought us together”. After first completing a chemistry degree, he headed to London. Here, a stint working at a Michelin-starred restaurant and learning from the sommelier there, saw his interest in wine gear up to a point that, on returning to Western Australia, he signed up to an oenology post grad at the University of Adelaide. Practical experience followed in Beaujolais, the Clare Valley and Tuscany, but since 2008, home base has been at Alkoomi Wines in the Frankland River - WA’s most isolated wine-growing region. 54

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Where did your first opportunities in the vineyard arise and who was an early mentor? I was working in a restaurant in Perth and before signing up to an oenology post grad I wanted to do vintage and get a taste. I was offered a cellar hand position at Forest Hill, based in Denmark WA, for the 2004 vintage. Andrew Marks was at Forest Hill for that first vintage (now Wanderer Wines and Melbourne Gin Company). He allowed me to be a part of the entire winemaking process. He’d set a task and allow me to work it out for myself and then check my method to see if I’d reached the desired result, always there to answer questions for the more challenging tasks.

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Te l l u s a b o u t t h e a t t r a c t i o n a n d challenges of working at Alkoomi. The isolation quickly becomes part of the attraction when you see the landscape, meet the close community and enjoy the lifestyle. Alkoomi means “a place we chose” and it is an excellent choice for growing premium fruit, notwithstanding the other benefits of life here. The challenges are mostly related to supply of goods or services that we may need. As a result, over the 40 or so years that Alkoomi has been making wine, we have become quite self-sufficient with overall sustainability a core factor. We have control over the entire winemaking process - from owning our own harvester through to a bottling line and extensive finished goods storage. Water supply is a major factor as we are solely reliant on rainfall for clean drinking water, winery processing and vineyard irrigation. Work has been done outside to enable water catchment using gravity fed dams instead of pumping the water, reducing our fossil fuel usage. Solar panels

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WorldMags.net have been installed on the winery roof minimising our electricity usage. A cross flow filter and a juice flotation pump were also recently purchased which have increased winery efficiency dramatically.

What’s the single biggest challenge facing Australian winemakers today? From my perspective, finding and keeping excellent staff. We are very lucky to have an excellent, committed team.

How do you describe your personal winemaking style? To u g h q u e s t i o n . I a p p re c i a t e t h e underlying science behind the processes - from micro biology, through to chemistry and onto physics - but most importantly, we’re making a drink, not a pH. So the decisions I make are based upon what we see in the glass rather that what a titration might reveal. The best decisions are those where we don’t need to do anything at all and invariably this comes back to fruit quality and attention to detail in the winery.

How much influence do you think consumer trends/behaviours should have on the winemaking element of a winery business? Agility is important. However, after 40 years of producing wine, Alkoomi has a loyal following and rather than being influenced by trends, we are more focused on producing the best we can and leading with what we do well.

Next year you notch up a decade with Alkoomi. What changes have you seen in the WA wine scene over this time? We’ve seen a steady increase in demand for all our wines and at the end of the year it’s great to see so many empty tanks ready to be filled with the new vintage. With the opening of many more new bars and restaurants in Perth over the last 10 years, we have seen demand for more smallbatch wines and alternative varieties. Also, with the flexible setup we have at Alkoomi, we have the agility to produce small batches of unique wines and meet the demand for those customers, as well as being able to experiment and create new wines in the cellar without compromising our core range.

What developments in winemaking are you most excited about right now? Filtration technology - love that cross flow.

What’s the most memorable bottle of wine you’ve consumed? A magnum of 1995 Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque. I had the champagne delivered to the restaurant as a surprise. I then tried to convince my (now) wife that ordering the beef fillet was probably not a good idea. Wine and food pairing is a very subjective thing - it was delicious!

What’s your favourite wine accessory? A good friend of mine gave me a solid steel wine pourer for my 40th birthday, shaped into the head of a zombie particularly gruesome effects when pouring red wine.

As winemaker, what level of influence do you have on the end marketing of your product to consumers? I attend occasional tastings and trade visits with our distributor, oh, and every six weeks I work weekends on cellar door sales!

When you’re not in the vineyard where are you most likely to be found? Brewing beer or cider in my shed, or in the kitchen cooking something to share with friends. My signature dish is rabbit rillettes - it also helps in keeping the rabbit population in check.

What developments are on the cards for Alkoomi Wines? Excited to see the tempranillo that we planted in 2011; we should have enough fruit to make a small batch this year. This year we also planted some more malbec, cabernet franc and riesling. We discovered some rogue gewurztraminer in the petit verdot block and have planted this out, as well as some grenache.

Do you collect wine? It’s not really a collection, it’s always a mixed bag in high rotation - there’s a bottle of 2010 Tignanello winking at me waiting for a special occasion and some lamb shanks.

What’s a favourite varietal? Riesling has always held a special place in my heart. Delicious in its youth, it is also able to age gracefully, develop complexity and provide continued interest.

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With spring in full gear, describe your ideal food and wine combination for the season. Homemade rabbit and leek pie with freshly picked greens from our garden and a barrel-fermented chardonnay.

September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

WorldMags.net W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ?

WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE

Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.

AUSTRALIAN WINES BASS PHILLIP Premium Pinot Noir 1990 $75 1991 $90 1992 $95 1993 $80 1994 $110 1995 $80 1996 $110 1997 $140 1998 $140 1999 $120 2000 $120 2001 $160 2002 $145 2003 $110 2004 $140 2005 $80 2007 $130 2008 $85 2009 $85 2010 $90 2011 $100

Block 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

BINDI 5 Pinot Noir $80 $95 Not Released $150 $120 $110 $85 $110 $140 $100 $120 $120 $90 $95 $85 $95

BROKENWOOD Graveyard Shiraz 1990 $90 1991 $110 1992 Not Released 1993 $80 1994 $80 1995 $85 S 1996 $95 1997 $85 1998 $140 S 1999 $90 2000 $140 S 2001 $85 S 2002 $75 2003 $80 2004 $85 S 2005 $85 2006 $110 2007 $90 2008 Not Released 2009 $85 CLARENDON HILLS Astralis Shiraz 1994 $200 1995 $200 1996 $250 T 1997 $200 1998 $260 1999 $260 56

2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

$270 $290 $300 $200 $350 $230 $250 Not Released Not Released Not Released $200 Not Released $210

CLONAKILLA Shiraz Viognier 1990 $65 1993 $65 1994 $85 1995 $65 1996 $100 1997 $130 1998 $150 1999 $55 2000 $90 2001 $130 2002 $130 2003 $100 T 2004 $120 2005 $110 2006 $120 S 2007 $190 S 2008 $90 2009 $95 T 2010 $90 T 2011 $75 2012 $70

Cabernet Merlot 1999 $95 2000 $65 2001 $110 T 2002 $90 2003 $90 2004 $110 S 2005 $85 2006 $70 2007 $100 2008 $95 S 2009 $95 S 2010 $100 S 2011 $75 ELDERTON Command Shiraz 1990 $90 T 1991 Not Released 1992 $100 1993 $65 1994 $85 S 1995 $75 1996 $95 1997 $70 1998 $95 1999 $70 2000 $65 2001 $65 2002 $85 2003 $65 2004 $75 S 2005 $65 2006 $70 2007 $65 S

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2008 $55 2009 $70 GIACONDA Chardonnay 1990 $110 1991 $60 1992 $85 1993 $90 1994 $100 1995 $85 1996 $140 1997 $95 1998 $110 T 1999 $120 2000 $110 2001 $110 2002 $160 2004 $190 2005 $120 2006 $110 T 2007 $120 S 2008 $130 T 2009 Not Released 2010 $130 2011 $130 2012 $130

Meshach 1990 $100 1991 $85 1992 $80 1993 $70 1994 $90 1995 $70 1996 $90 1997 Not Released 1998 $110 1999 $90 2000 $70 2001 $110 2002 $95 2003 $60 2004 $70 2005 $65 2006 $65 2007 Not Released 2008 $85 GREENOCK CREEK Roennfeldt Rd Shiraz 1995 $280 1996 $260 1997 $160 1998 $350 1999 $200 S 2000 $220 2001 $250 2002 $320 S 2003 $210 2004 $210 2005 $230 2006 $260

Hill of Grace 1980 $280 S 1981 $220 1982 $250 S

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1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2001 2002 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

$220 $220 $280 $330 $250 S $330 S $280 S $460 $400 $350 S $300 S $360 S $320 S $480 $300 T $420 $380 $380 S $420 $380 $390 S $180 T Not Released $540

Armagh Shiraz 1990 $200 1991 $120 T 1992 $140 S 1993 $110 1994 $130 1995 $130 1996 $190 S 1997 $140 T 1998 $250 S 1999 $180 S 2000 $120 2001 $140 2002 $200 2004 $160 S 2005 $120 2006 $160 2007 $95 2008 $160

Chardonnay Art Series 1990 $60 1991 $60 1992 $70 1993 $65 1994 $85 1995 $100 1996 $65 1997 $90 1998 $70 1999 $75 2000 $75 2001 $80 2002 $80 S 2003 $80 2004 $90 2005 $75 2006 $70 2007 $85 2008 $70 2009 $75 2010 $70

MOSS WOOD Cab Sauv 1990 $130 1991 $150 1992 $120 1993 $100 1994 $100 1995 $130 1996 $120 1997 $100 1998 $130 T 1999 $130 2000 $130 S 2001 $130 2002 $120 S 2003 $90 2004 $100 2005 $100 2006 $70 S 2007 $95 S 2008 $90 2009 $85 2010 $80 S 2011 $90 MOUNT MARY Quintet 1990 $150 1991 $120 1992 $110 1993 $95 1994 $110 1995 $100 1996 $120 1997 $120 1998 $160 1999 $130 2000 $120 2001 $110 2002 $130 2003 $110 2004 $140 2005 $120 2006 $120 2007 $90 2008 $95 2009 Not Released 2010 $85 2011 $120

Bin 1951 1952 1953 1954 1955 1956 1957 1958 1959 1960 1961 1962 1963 1964 1965

95 Grange $46,000 $17,000 $14,000 $11,000 S $4,000 $14,000 $12,000 $4,100 $2,000 $1,500 $1,600 $1,600 $1,200 S $1,200 S $600 S

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1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010

$1,000 $600 $600 $560 $400 $720 $400 $450 $480 $460 $850 $450 $380 $400 $380 $400 $380 $480 $350 $380 $520 $350 $380 $360 $540 $460 $380 $380 $380 $370 $500 $380 $580 $400 $420 $380 $450 $420 $460 $430 $520 $420 $620

S S

S S S S S T S

Stonewell Shiraz 1990 $90 1991 $70 1992 $60 1993 $65 1994 $55 1995 $55 1996 $70 1997 $55 1998 $85 S 1999 $75 2000 $70 2001 $65 2002 $70 2003 $55 2004 $85 2005 $60 2006 $60 2007 $55 2008 $60

S S

Bin 707 $250 S $250 S $210 S $220 S $220 S Not Released $230 $190 $260 $200 Not Released $210 S $220 S Not Released $200 $230 S $220 S $200 S $210 S $200 S $280

Bin 60A 1962 $4,000 2004 $550 S 2006 $400

Basket Press Shiraz 1990 $150 1991 $140 1992 $95 1993 $110 S 1994 $95 S 1995 $100 S 1996 $180 S 1997 $90 T 1998 $190 1999 $110 2000 $90 2001 $95 2002 $120 2003 $100 2004 $110 S 2005 $110 S 2006 $110 2007 $85 T 2008 $85 T 2009 $85 S 2010 $100 S THREE RIVERS/ Chris Ringland Wines Shiraz 1990 $520 1991 $690 1992 $600 1993 $700 1994 $650 1995 $450 1996 $830 1997 Not Released 1998 $850 1999 $600 2000 $450 2001 $800 2002 $800 2003 $500

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions

1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2008 2009 2010 2011

Shiraz $150 $130 $80 $90 $120 $110 $160 $85 $160 $100 $80 $100 $150 $100 $120 $130 $130 $120 $130 $140 $110

2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

S T S S

S S

Para Liqueur 1878 $2,200 S 1879 $2,500 S 1880 $1,800 S 1881 $1,800 S 1882 $1,800 S 1887 $1,200 S 1893 $1,200 S 1899 $1,200 S 1901 $700 S 1908 $600 S 1910 $500 S 1922 $350 1925 $600 1927 $290 1930 $140 1933 $140 S 1939 $90 S 1944 $80 S 1947 $75 S

IMPORTED WINES

Moet et Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon 1980 $180 T 1982 $280 S 1983 $190 S 1985 $200 1988 $260 1990 $320 T 1992 $240 1993 $260 1995 $220 1996 $370 S 1998 $260 1999 $190 2000 $190 S 2002 $200 2003 $190 2004 $170

$2,000 Not Released $2,000 $5,700 $2,100 $3,200 S $3,000

E. Guigal La Turque Hermitage 1990 $800 1991 $850 S 1992 $270 1993 $240 Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1990 $550 1990 $800 1996 $260 1993 $220 1991 $450 1997 $450 S 1994 $340 1993 $340 1998 $700 1995 $300 1994 $360 1999 $850 S 1996 $440 1995 $500 T 2000 $420 1997 $450 1996 $540 2001 $520 1999 $340 1997 $490 2002 $450 2000 $340 1998 $400 2003 $850 2002 $300 1999 $520 2004 $560 2004 $240 2000 $600 2005 $600 2001 $900 2006 $750 Chateau Mouton 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 Gaja Barbaresco 1990 $650 S 2004 $500 1990 $330 1991 $550 2005 $650 1991 $220 1992 $230 2008 $600 1992 Not Released 1993 $550 T 1993 $210 1994 $340 Domaine 1994 $260 1995 $520 de la Romanee 1995 $210 1996 $800 S Conti La Tache 1996 $300 1997 $280 1990 $7,400 1997 $380 T 1998 $420 1991 $1,900 1998 $300 1999 $750 S 1992 $1,250 1999 $300 S 2000 $1,150 1993 $2,200 2000 $250 T 2001 $450 1994 $1,600 2001 $250 2002 $500 1995 $3,500 S 2002 Not Released 2003 $600 1996 $3,100 S 2003 Not Released 2004 $850 S 1997 $1,900 2004 $310 2005 $1,200 1998 $2,200 2005 Not Released 2006 $950 S 1999 $5,000 2007 $240 2008 Not Released 2000 $1,500 2009 $2,000 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 2002 $3,800 S Dell’Ornellaia Chateau Latour 2003 $2,800 Ornellaia 1990 $1,250 2004 $2,500 1991 $320 1991 $600 2005 $5,500 S 1992 $105 1992 $350 2006 $1,700 1993 $125 1993 $440 2007 $1,200 1994 $130 1994 $460 2008 $2,400 1995 $130 1995 $1,200 S 2009 $5,000 1996 $180 1996 $1,400 S 1997 $350 S 1997 $650 S Domaine Armand 1998 $350 S 1998 $520 Rousseau 1999 $200 1999 $600 Chambertin 2000 $450 S 2000 $1,600 Clos de Beze 2001 $260 2001 $700 1990 $2,500 S 2002 $280 2002 $600 1991 $200 2003 $150 2003 $1,700 1992 $220 2004 $280 S 2004 $600 1993 $700 S 2005 $200 2005 $1,300 1994 $500 2006 $220 S 2006 $1,100 1995 $560 2007 $220 2007 $750 1996 $650 2008 $150 2008 $1,100 1997 $280 2009 $190 1998 $400 Chateau Petrus 1999 $800 Vega Sicilia Unico 1990 $5,500 2000 $320 Gran Reserva 1991 Not Released 2001 $700 S 1990 $560 1992 $1,300 2002 $680 1991 $420 1993 $1,000 2003 $600 1994 $550 1994 $2,800 2004 $440 1995 $420 1995 $4,000 S 2005 $1,200 S 1996 $360 1996 $2,400 2006 $600 1998 $420 1997 $1,000 2007 Not Released 1999 $550 S 1998 $4,800 S 2009 $1,100 2000 $360 1999 $1,250 2010 $1,100 2002 $420 2000 $6,000 2003 $294 2001 $4,500 S

NES

HUON HOOKE

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Top fivE NET TASTING ER ER

TAT E IN T

N AT ION A L C A B

TYSON STELZER

MIKE BENNIE

POINTS

September/October 2017

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wine investment & collecting

AUCTION DATES MOSSGREEN-WEBB’S September 22-27 (inclusive): online auction (taking consignments until September 15). October 17, 18: live auction (taking consignments until September 30).

MW WINES September auction: Opens September 6, closes September 13 (submissions close September 2). October auction: Opens October 4, closes October 11 (submissions close September 30). November auction: Opens November 1, closes November 8 (submissions close October 28). Submissions can be received at any time.

LANGTON’S AUCTIONS Auctions close at 9pm every Tuesday and Thursday with unreserved auctions every second Sunday. Finest & Rare, $5 Reserve, Single Vendor and more. Visit langtons.com.au to view the full calendar.

STERLING WINE Live on-line auctions run every two weeks, back-to-back, finishing on Wednesday evening.

ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Visit oddbins.com.au for the latest auction dates and information. (All dates subject to change without notice).

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Auction

reports

MOSSGREEN-WEBB’S (By REECE WARREN) Since our last report, Mossgreen-Webb’s has had three auctions - two of which have been single vendor cellars. The single vendor auctions are cer tainly proving to be very popular with our buyers due to provenance and the stories behind the cellar. This has brought many new buyers both to the auction room and to the online platform. They also bring with them a higher sell-through rate which is exciting for both the vendor and us. The first single vendor auction featured t h e w i n e s f r o m a p ro m i n e nt N e w Zealander who loves fine wine. Many of the wines had been purchased from the well-known and notable wine merchants, Berry Brothers and Rudd in St James, London. His passion had grown into one of New Zealand’s great cellars anchored by a selection of fine Classed Growth Bordeaux.

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Many other French regions were well represented, too. From the Rhone the collection had Paul Avril’s Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Papes of 20 0 3 and 2007. Burgundy had the great Bonneau du Martray Corton of 1996 and 2003 Corton-Charlemagne. There were also multiple vintages of Chateau d’Yquem in magnum and bottle format as well as Chateau Climens from Sauternes. All these wines proved very popular, especially the Sauternes and the Clos des Papes. These had many bidders and sold for above their high estimates. Italy was represented by the Super Tuscan Sassicaia and Barolo heavyweight Giacosa Falletto, with the fine 2001 Artadi Vina El Pison Rioja in magnum flying the flag for Spain. The new-world wines included Screaming Eagle from Napa and 1996 Penfolds Grange from South Australia. While the high prices of the cult Screaming Eagle were a bit much for many, the 1996 Grange was extremely popular. It was, however, in the wines from Bordeaux where this cellar excelled. Every lot was a great offering with wines from hallowed vintages like 1982, 1989, 19 9 0, 20 0 0, 20 0 5 and 20 0 9 - most with ver y high critic’s points. There were First Growths, Second Growths, Super Seconds, Left Bank, Right Bank and different format bottlings. This was indeed a cellar that had been put together with a lot of thought. The auction went extremely well with a full house and a great number of absentee bids. We were able to offer many of the wines in case lots and smaller quantities that pleased both the collectors and the drinkers alike. Sell-through percentage on the evening was in the high 70s and due to the high numbers of some of the wines in this cellar we will be able to continue to offer many of these wines in the future. The second single vendor auction was an online only auction featuring the wines of a very well-known restaurant in Auckland’s well-to-do suburb of Herne Bay. While this was a far more commercial offering it also had many fine wines that had been collected over the previous 20 years of trading. Again, this auction proved very popular - especially with the many regulars of

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this restaurant who snapped up the wines they had previously enjoyed at the establishment itself. Sell-through percentage was again in the high 70s with many above the high estimate. This left both the vendors and bidders extremely pleased especially the bidders who picked up their favourite wines at considerably less than what they had been previously paying for them due to restaurant margins. Single vendor auctions are something Mossgreen-Webb’s prides itself on; not just for wine but across all departments. However, with wine it proves to be ver y desirable to our buyers due to the background of the consignor and the knowledge that all the wines in an auction have been stored in the correct conditions. We will continue to actively source these single vendor cellars to bring to the market.

MW WINES (MAY AUCTION REPORT, by NICK STAMFORD) Only a short time ago an auction which saw $ 283,000 worth of wine change hands would have been celebrated at

M W Wines. But such has been the exciting growth and momentum over the past 12 month that the result from our May auction almost felt like we were taking a breath! In reality, though, it was another excellent auction, with a clearance rate of 65 per cent, many g re at re sul t s an d s o m e ve r y, ve r y happy vendors. Buyers have also been delighted , at trac ted to our diverse catalogues containing all sorts of old and rare gems alongside the usual offerings of ready to drink, affordable wines and the odd outright bargain. Each month we seem to attract more and more serious bidders, which we predominantly put down to these interesting catalogues, together with our focus on providing transparency to both buyers and sellers as well as a strong customer service ethic. With such a high clearance rate, it also means that every catalogue we put up contains a solid majority of wines that have not been put up for sale before, ensuring there is always a huge range of new and interesting wines. In terms of the biggest prices paid in our May auction, the standouts were a bottle of 2008 Domaine Leroy Richebourg selling

for $2415, followed by a 375ml bottle of the legendary 1916 Seppelt 100-year-old Para at $1725 and Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Riserva Monfortino at $1380. Ver y strong results continue to be achieved for Penfolds wines, particularly Grange and Bin 707. While volumes were down, extremely competitive bidding continued, with 79 of the 82 bottles of Grange on offer selling, many at extremely strong prices. New records were achieved for several vintages, including 19 92 ($552), 1996 ($ 690) and 2004 ($ 621), as well as the 1997 vintage of Penfolds Bin 707 ($391). RWT and St Henri were not to be left behind, with the 1998 RWT achieving a record $167 and the already legendary 2010 St Henri hitting $161. We say it almost every month, but other iconic Australian wines continued the trend of record prices, with astounding results on wines such as Henschke Mt Edelstone (1990 - $161, 1996 - $172, both records) and Rockford Basket Press Shiraz (2010 $161). Once again, every single bottle of Henschke offered was sold, most at well above reserve. As seems to happen each auction, the burgundy section saw very spirited

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bidding, with some results surprising all of us. A less than perfect condition bottle of 1997 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot sold for $ 966, 300 per cent above its reserve price. Several bottles of Robert Groffier 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses also almost doubled their reser ve price, selling for $ 428 each on average. Fourrier 20 0 5 G ev rey Chambertin Clos St Jacques achieved a record, with the hammer finally falling at $ 575. Overall, there was a strong clearance rate of 73 per cent across the 468 bottles of red burgundy on offer. Over the past few years, the market for red bordeaux has been subdued, clearly taking a back seat while the value of the wines of Burgundy took off. But over the past 12 months we have seen a definite resurgence in interest in these majestic, old-world wines. The clearance rate on red bordeaux in our May auction actually exceeded that of red burgundy - at 78 per cent. Highlights included a bottle of 1990 Chateau Leoville Poyferre selling well over reserve at $299 and the sale of a less than perfect double magnum of 1982 Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases at $1322. We look

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forward to reporting on the results of our June and July auctions in Winestate’s next edition, with some super consignments on the way. If you are interested in either buying or selling with us, contact any of our team on (03) 9419 6990. Finally, there was also plenty of activity in the fine wine retail division, with an informative and enter taining Barolo masterclass highlighting the nuances in the main communes of this famed region. We have also commenced our first Burgundy Education Sessions, hosted by Nick Stamford, our managing director and resident burgundy nut. For Aussie Wine Month, we hosted one of our best ever free testings, featuring none other than new release flagship wines from Cullen, Moss Wood and Giaconda, among others. There was also the usual array of retail offers of new release wines from these producers and many others. If you would like to receive these offers, sign up at www. mw wines.com.au / shop or give us a call. All prices above include 15 per cent buyer’s premium.

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LANGTON’S AUCTIONS MARKET HIGHLIGHTS, APRIL - MAY, by ADRIAN READ) L a n g to n’s o n l i n e a u c t i o n p l a t fo r m continues to evolve and, if you’ve been away for a while, we encourage you to check out all the changes.There is greater simplicit y and transparency around the bidding process and you now know exactly how much you are bidding, including buyer’s premium, before you confirm your bid. It’s now also clear whether or not you’ve been outbid or if the lot has not reached its reserve price. Additionally, you know how many others are watching and bidding on your favoured lots, enabling you to better plan your own bidding strategy. We think you’ll find navigating the site is easier, especially if you’re using a mobile phone, and the search function is much improved, with a number of new filters making it easier to find what you’re looking for. Auction catalogue PDFs will now also show up properly on your phone or tablet. Finally, an ultra-compact view (hide images) is available and you have the option of viewing up to 80 products

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per page. Of course, the evolution of our web platform is ongoing and we’re always keen to receive your feedback. Meanwhile, Langton’s remains the wine auction leader, whatever your measure, and highlights from our recent sales were many. First, an increase in the price of a wine’s current release price can also increase (or reset) the price of older vintages. Thus, a bottle of 2000 Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz fetched $176. Rarities are in demand, especially with documented provenance. As proof, a half-bottle of 1953 Penfolds Grange, from Max Schubert’s personal cellar and accompanied by a letter signed by his widow, Thelma, certifying the fact - sold for $6990. Birth-year buying can cause a significant price spike. Recently we had three competing bidders pushing up the price of a 1977 Brand’s Laira Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon to $ 94, four times its normal price. Happy 40th somebody, and a gift for the vendor, too. Big b ot tles are also sought- af ter. A balthazar (12 litres or 16 bottles ) of 20 01 Tommasi Classico Amarone

della Valpolicella went for $2214 - the equivalent of $119 per bottle, compared with the $ 8 5 - $10 0 at which single (750ml) bottles normally trade. T h e i m p o r t a n c e o f t h e P e n fo l d s recorking clinic program is reflected in the price of $ 3520 (four times expectations) paid for a single bottle of 1962 Bin 389. The confidence of the four bidders was no doubt strengthened by the fact they knew this bot tle had been opened, tasted, topped up and recorked at a clinic in 1996. Classic Australian wines are becoming increasingly rare, thus we saw a 1954 Woodley’s View in Bathurst Plains Claret - one of the famous Treasure Chest Series - sell for $ 3320. Bordeaux and burgundy are always strong. To prove it, a 2010 Chateau Mouton Rothschild ( First Growth Pauillac) fetched $1748 and a double-magnum of 1988 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny, Vieilles Vignes, went for $4080. Finally, the market for spirits continues to show spectacular growth. Just one example was a single bottle of Suntory Yamazaki 25 Year Old Japanese Whisky

from Shimamoto in Osaka Prefecture, which sold for an incredible $ 5243. All prices include buyer’s premium.

STERLING WINE (by LYNTON BARBER) Sterling W ine Auctions are still the P e n fo l d s’ s h o w w i t h a fe w g u e s t per formers tr ying to steal the limelight. The most recent online sale saw the top seven “most wanted” places filled by Penfolds Grange and Block 42, with a lonely bottle of 1981 Chateau Margaux squeezed in the middle. The number one most wanted was a 1979 Grange that at tracted 27 bids. T he winning bid of $292 was very good value for a bottle with ullage and label damage - ideal for the next big night out or a punt at the Penfolds Recorking clinic next year. The perfect 40th birthday present comes at a high price. A cliniced bottle of 1977 Penfolds Grange was number two on the wanted list with a cool winning bid of $ 968, and 20 bids to sell. Beyond the Grange fuss, the solid and reliable - often exciting - 1998 Jack Mann was looking very popular and valuable,

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with six bottles selling for winning bids between $110 and $115. It also looks like everyone has now come to grips with cheap and fabulous Houghton classic whites sitting next to the Frankland River Titan that is Jack Mann. Phone premiums are very much in fashion, with 2006 Delas Freres Hermitage Les Bessards getting the recognition that RP97 and $125 should bring. In this all-seeing-allknowing internet age, some wonderful things do slip between the cracks. Smart buyers are picking up the original Grange - Penfolds Magill Estate - very cheaply. Penfolds is committed to retaining this most important and historical wine, but it can’t make enough to promote and correctly price it. The first vintage of Magill Estate, the 1983, with level at high shoulder, sold for a highest bid of a paltry $46. Venerable old champagne is a blessing and a curse. One will fly you to the moon and the next will be a bitter pill. Excitement abounds for reasonable money, with an intriguing 1973 Alfred Gratien slipping away for a top bid of $ 99. More mainstream was a bottle of beguiling 1999 Louis Roederer Cristal, which sold for a winning bid of

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$ 379. History and fashion are always at hand with Sterling Wine. You could write volumes on the Yalumba Thoroughbred Series Family of Man 1978 V intage Port - and one day someone will - but today this master of the past sold for a humble $13 winning bid. Ripe and ready to go was 2002 Langmeil The Freedom Shiraz which sold in volume for just $ 80- $ 82. The old timer that caught my eye though was the 1997 Brands of Coonawarra Stentiford Reserve Shiraz. A super premium with a booty of golden prizes, this fine old wine sold for just $ 36 hammer fall. Recently I’ve been hearing strange things about well-cellared wine. In fact, a school of thought is emerging that connects “certified” cellaring with 100 per cent perfect bottles. If only it was so. The excitement and extraordinary highs we enjoy are made possible by bottle variation. Remember the saying: “there are no great wines - just great bottles”. Sterling sells premium wine and our average bottle price is over $100, which comes from very fussy folks with ideal cellaring conditions. Recently we did an experiment with a well-known

September/October 2017

premium cabernet from the 2001 vintage. We had six bottles from the same box from the same refrigerated cellar - and our Master of Proceedings was a wellknown wine producer and senior show judge. One bottle was horrifically corked (undrinkable), three were very good and easily met expectations and two were amazing - with one, in particular, a true lifelong memory. Let’s celebrate the exceptional bottles and accept the unique character of each and every bottle. Good or bad. Modern winemaking can produce reliable, mediocre wine that is ver y consistent. Let’s take some risks and buy a few doubtful old champagnes and some ullaged bottles with a sense of adventure. I promise, there will be disappointments. But these will be forgotten - wiped away by the blaze of the remarkable, the surprise in a bottle that you were not expecting. For more information about Sterling Wine Auctions visit www.sterlingwine. com.au. Prices quoted are hammer fall before BP.

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M A I N F R E I G H T W O R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S Y R A H & S H I R A Z C H A L L E N G E XII Another amazing annual judging of the shiraz varietal that Australia SHIRAZ seems to have made its own. But lets not forget, syrah, the old $10-$15 29 TASTED world name and also used in the new world to designate mid25 AWARDED weight elegant styles that can equally compete at the top. Across the board there were some amazing examples of shiraz/syrah at a Some excellent results range of prices for everyone’s budget. We also like to include some here considering the price. “Some nicer yardstick imports, particularly from France, and these proved of quaffers with a few alternate interest. punching above their

weight”, said one judge. “Very similar styles with sweet fruit and minimal Zilzie Estate Australia Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Very good lifted blackcurrant/plum aromas with meaty notes. Firm, dry, savoury palate with menthol notes. $7

SHIRAZ & BLENDS UNDER $10 14 TASTED 8 AWARDED The younger wines show freshness, noted, “There is nothing else there once the older wines lose their fruit”. Some fair drinkers here - for the price.

A.C. Byrne & Co. McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 Riper fruit characters on the complex nose and a rich earthy mulberry palate with chocolaty notes and great tannins. $9.99 Earthworks Barossa Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 A fruit-driven style with light peppery notes on the nose and cedary oak on the palate with slightly warming alcohol. $9.99

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the key”.

Blackstone Paddock The Player Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Smells of blackberries and spices with some savoury meatiness. Full flavoured palate, good persistence of sweet berry, chocolate and licorice flavours; nice nutty oak. 5+ $12.99

James Busby Whispers South Eastern Australia Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Spicy and savoury on the nose with a soft, medium bodied, dark berry palate. $5

whereas, as one judge

Berton Vineyards Head Over Heels SEA Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 Attractive bouquet of blackberry and plums with a spicy peppery varietal palate and good tannin structure. $8

oak where freshness is

September/October 2017

Jamiesons Run The Grazier South Eastern Australia Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Clean lifted spicy/earthy fruit aromas, lovely varietal flavours and firm tannins. $7 Lindeman’s Bin 50 Shiraz 2016 ★★★ A fresh, simple style with oaky fragrances and blackberry flavours and balanced finish. $7 Burge Wines The Cellar Cut South Australia Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Perfumed lift to the spicy plum nose with a soft, savoury and balanced palate. $8

Berton Vineyards Metal Label The Black Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 Dark and earthy on the nose with peppery notes. Great palate tastes of plums and blackcurrants with firm drying tannins and cedary oak and has a strong finish. $12

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Longyarn Wines McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 The oaky/stewed plum bouquet has a perfumed/floral lift. Great palate structure with a complexity of sweet blueberry fruits and spicy flavours with good use of oak. $14

varietal tasting

WorldMags.net Parson’s Paddock Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ Powerful oaky nose with nice hints of licorice and black olives. The full-bodied palate is long and complex and offers earthy/chocolaty/black fruit flavours. 3-5 $14

Shottesbrooke Regional Series Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Nose is a combination of tar, cloves, cigar box and some earthiness. Nicely structured palate soft with boysenberryflavours. $14.99 Annie’s Lane Harvest Cottage Adelaide Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Aged oaky nose with an earthy meaty palate showing chocolaty oak and soft tannins. $10

Taylors Wines Promised Land South Australia Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ The nose is clean, lifted and spicy and the palate is full of prune, raisin and blueberry flavours. A soft easy drinking style. 3-5 $14 3 Rings Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Slightly developed nose, smells earthy with some blackberry conserve notes. Palate has good integration between the oak and fruit with attractive chocolaty notes. 5+ $14.99 James Busby The Tutor 570 Vines Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 A complexity of varietal fruit aromas with lifted cedary oak. Firmly structured, savoury, palate with a great richness of spicy chocolaty flavours supported by cigar box oak. 5+ $10

James Busby Legends of Shiraz Fruits of Labour McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Nose is a powerful combo of dark berries, licorice and spices. Lovely persistence of berry, chocolate and olive flavours. 5+ $12 Tudor Central Victoria Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ A big, ripe fruit, style. Eucalypt notes on the nose and bright savoury fruit on a well-balanced, palate with more eucalypt on the finish. 5+ $12.99 Haselgrove Wines H by Haselgrove South Australia Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Nice spiciness mingles with the blackcurrant aromas and follows through to the sweet chocolaty/earthy palate with strong tannins. 5+ $14

Paringa SA Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Rich, sweet and complex wine with a perfumed lift to the spicy fruit nose and attractive chocolaty earthiness to the long palate. $12.99 3 Rings Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ Nose is an intensity of dark berries with some obvious leathery age. Developed, balanced, tarry/spicy palate. Good flavour length. 3-5 $14.99 Bird’s Eye View McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Dark fruit aromas lift off the nose with prune-like notes. Good palate structure and length with complex flavours. 3-5 $13

James Busby Two Churches Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A meaty/savoury style; some brambles on the nose and barnyard characters on the palate. $10 Rosemount Estate Roseglen Australia Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Simple sweet plum fragrances and a medium bodied palate with soft earthy plum flavours. $10 Paringa SA Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A balanced, full flavoured style with good varietal fruit, nutty oak with a slightly hot finish. 3-5 $12.99 Pepperton Estate Cellar Reserve NSW Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A more elegant shiraz with earthy savoury aromas and attractive, slightly lean, palate. $12.99

Penola Estate Coonawarra Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Oaky nose with a peppery lift and a simple, warm, clean and flavoursome palate. 3-5 $13 Tail Spin Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Lifted perfumed varietal aromas and a savoury style of palate with good tannins. 3-5 $13 Taylors Wines Special Release Clare Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A powerful, balanced and flavoursome wine with dark fruit characters and some spiciness. 5+ $14.99 James Busby Legends of Shiraz Spice Trail Central Victoria Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Lean and savoury shiraz with slightly green peppery fruit nicely integrated with the oak. $12 3 Rings Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ The earthy nose is open and lifted, the palate warm with sweet berry flavours and some meatiness. $14.99

Paringa SA Shiraz 2013 ★★★ An aged gamey chocolaty style showing nice bottle age and pretty lifted spiciness. $12.99

JUDGES - DAY 1 Nick Haselgrove Winestate’s 2010 Australian Winemaker of the Year. Winemaker/ Director of Adelaide Winemakers. Former chief winemaker at Haselgrove Wines. A ‘flying winemaker’ from 1993-95. Judge at Hobart for 3 years and associate judge at Adelaide in 1996-97.

Tom Newton

Shane Harris

Senior white winemaker

Winemaker for Wines by

(and formerly red

Geoff Hardy including,

winemaker) with the

Pertaringa Wines, K1 and

Accolade Wine Company.

Handcrafted by Geoff

Formerly at Stonehaven

Hardy Wines. Has also

Winery. Has been with

completed vintages in

Hardys for the past 20

Queensland and Victoria.

years. For the past three

Completed the AWRI

years has been an associate

advanced sensory course

judge at the Griffith and

and has associate judged at

Canberra wine shows.

McLaren Vale wine show.

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WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2016-2015 $15-$20

WorldMags.net Pure Vision Organic SA Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ Good intensity and persistence of juicy sweet varietal fruit nicely balanced by the spicy/vanillin oak with good tannin structure. 3-5 $15

24 TASTED 21 AWARDED The judges agreed

Jacob’s Creek Reserve Limestone Coast Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ The nose has a fresh menthol lift with powerful spicy/peppery varietal fruit, some licorice kicking in and strong tannin spine. 5+ $18

this was a strong class for the price. “More fruit here and more integrated oak”, noted one.

Mt Monster BEST Limestone VALUE BUYS Coast Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 Lovely nose; smells of sweet blackcurrants and chocolate. Good length and density of complex meaty/earthy/chocolate/ prune flavour profile with fine soft tannins. 5+ $16.95

BE Wine for VALUE BUYS Yoga Lovers Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Oaky chocolaty bouquet with a dash of black pepper. Great palate structure and nice length of plum flavours with savoury elements. 5+ $16

Warburn Estate 1164 Padthaway Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Very attractive lifted blackberry pie-like aromas and good weight of savoury and sweet fruit flavours with good tannin structure. 3-5 $17

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Brygon BEST LUE Reserve Wines VA BUYS Signature Series Coonawarra Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Smells earthy and cigar box-like with a peppery lift and the taste is of a melange of blackcurrants, chocolate, prunes and spices. 5+ $17.99

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varietal tasting

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Andrew Peace Wines Winemaker’s Choice Wrattonbully Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Very elegant shiraz but still has plenty of fruit cake-like varietal power to the nose and palate with nice chocolaty elements. 5+ $18

St Johns Brook Recolte Margaret River Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ A creamy nose dashed with fruit, spices and cedar with similar characters following through to the palate. Nice acid; dry tannins. $18

Brygon Reserve Wines Lion’s BEST LUE Lair WA Shiraz VA BUYS 2015 ★★★★ An old fashioned style. Slightly raisined edge to the varietal fruit aromas and a full-bodied, flavoursome, chocolaty/ berry palate. $19.99 Grancari BEST LUE Estate Greta’s VA BUYS McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ A big, full-bodied, shiraz that’s a lovely complexity of sweet fruit, prunes and chocolate with gamey notes and a peppery lift. 5+ $18

Blackstone Paddock Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ An intensity of prune/ plum aromas with a peppery lift and an elegant earthy, chocolaty, peppery palate with some spiciness. $19.99

Clarence Hill Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 An elegant savoury style offering easy drinking with bright lifted spicy red berry fruit and a certain earthiness to it. $15 Trentham Estate Murray Darling Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 A simple earthy fruit nose with a hint of oak and a clean balanced mulberry palate with savoury persistence. 3-5 $16

Taltarni T-Series Victoria Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 A soft savoury shiraz that’s ageing nicely with hints of red licorice on the nose and spicy, juicy fruit flavours. 3-5 $18

Andrew Peace Wines Winemaker’s Choice Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Intense blackberry fragrances with a gamey element which is echoed on the nicely balanced palate. $18

Pepperton Estate Two Thumbs Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Lots of oak on the nose and quite an oaky tannic palate with some redcurrant fruit flavours. 5+ $16.99

Bellevue Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A lovely spicy lift of blackberry-like varietal fruit on both nose and palate with strong tannins. $19.99

Bellevue Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★ A nose of spicy berries and creamy oak with an elegant blackcurrant palate. $19.99 Organic Hill BEST VALUE Preservative BUYS Free Organic Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Pungent gamey bouquet and good weight and persistence of spicy dark berry flavours. $19.99

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2014 & OLDER $15-$20 21 TASTED 19 AWARDED A surprisingly strong class with normally the older vintages at value prices tending to fall away - but not in this group with the structure

Shingleback Davey Brothers McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Spicy and savoury shiraz. Peppery fruit fragrances and blackberry concentration on the palate. 3-5 $16 Berton Vineyards Reserve Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Developed oaky wine with nice varietal fruit underneath. “Warm and drinkable!”. 3-5 $17

holding up well. These were great for drinking now or in a couple of years. Andrew Peace Wines Estate Swan Hill Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ A lovely full-flavoured shiraz with very good lifted cedary/peppery fruit fragrances and a seamlessly balanced fruit/oak palate that has good supporting tannins. Ageing nicely. $18

JUDGES - DAY 2 Adam Clay Penfolds winemaker in the Barossa Valley. Has completed vintages at Marchesi de Frescobaldi in Chianti and Pellegrin in California. Judge at the Alternative Varieties show Cairns, Queensland Wine Awards and Clare Valley wine show.

Lauren Hodgeman Production winemaker at Beach Road Wines. Previously with Mollydooker and Lloyd Brothers McLaren Vale. Has judged at the Victorian wine show. Has vintaged in Oregon at Argyle Wines and Kendall-Jackson in the Napa Valley.

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September/October 2017

James Lienert Winemaker for WD Wines, maker of Parker Coonawarra, St. Johns Road and Vickery Wines. Previously winemaker at Two Hands winery. Has vintaged in Germany USA and New Zealand, along with working at six Penfolds’ wineries.

W I N E S TAT E

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII

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Gipsie Jack Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 An elegant wine with a great balance between the varietal fruit, spicy oak and grippy tannins. Has a certain salami/ smallgoods-like element. 5+ $18

d’Arenberg The Footbolt McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ A full-bodied and slightly drying chocolaty wine with a peppery lift to the earthy nose and somewhat porty/prunelike flavours. 5+ $18

Momentum Chapter 1 SA Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Still fresh and bright with a ripe berry fruit nose and full-flavoured palate that has good varietal fruit and oak complexity with balancing, chewy, tannins. 5+ $18

Heartland Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Oak quite dominant on the nose with a spicy/ peppery edge. Palate has an attractive mocha, prune, meaty, spicy flavour profile. $18 Haselgrove Wines First Cut McLaren Shanahans The Old Dog Barossa Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Valley Shiraz Big ripe and porty shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 that is ageing very nicely A nicely aged shiraz with a savoury peppery and has a silky smooth balance between the fruit, lift to the prune-like the oak and the tannins. nose. Soft and rich in 3-5 $19 the mouth with good dark fruit characters Shottesbrooke underscored by spicy Estate Series oak and powdery McLaren Vale Shiraz tannins. 3-5 2014 ★★★★ $19.95 A flavoursome, aged style that has attractive tarry Gomersal Wines aromas and developing Premium Barossa leathery flavour profile Valley Shiraz with a fresh berry twist. 2014 ★★★★ 3-5 $19.99 Great length and structure here. Lovely balance between sweet chocolaty characters, aged leathery elements and creamy oak. $17

Haselgrove Wines First Cut McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ A powerful wine with complex aromas and excellent persistence of spicy/chocolaty/ blackcurrant flavours. Still has freshness. 3-5 $19

BEST Olivia VALUE BUYS Coonawarra Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ Distinct aged cedary bouquet and some lovely oak on the palate with light elegant fruit characters and soft tannin backbone. $19.99

Orchid Original BEST Block 12 VALUE BUYS Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 A nose of blackberry, spices and Tabac with clean, sweet fruit flavours, spicy oak and soft tannins. 3-5 $18 Shearer’s Hill Premium Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Very savoury style. Subtle earthy spicy fragrances and full flavoured palate with good tannin structure and licoricey finish. 5+ $18

Alkoomi White Label Frankland River Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Spicy plum aromas and medium bodied palate with spicy fruit, nice oak and fine tannins. 5+ $15

Brygon Reserve Wines Martha’s Lane Coonawarra Shiraz 2014 ★★★ A big berry compote of a nose and chocolaty/ prune palate with a balance of freshness and age. 5+ $15.99 Cote Mas Corbieres Syrah Grenache Carignan 2014 ★★★ Surprisingly fresh spicy nose with good length of confectionery fruit flavours and powdery tannins. 3-5 $16.99

JUDGES - DAY 3 Peter Douglas Winemaker for Koonara Wines. Formerly chief winemaker for Wynns Coonawarra. A Bachelor of Agricultural Science in Oenology, he has completed more than 20 vintages. Peter has been an associate judge at the Griffith and Canberra wine shows. 68

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Peter Simic Editor/publisher Winestate Magazine. More than 35 years’ experience in the wine industry. Formerly founding publisher of the first US colour wine magazine, manager of the SA Wine Information Bureau, and wine educator with Regency College, in SA.

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Leigh Francis Sensory Research Manager at the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI). On AWRI Teaching Advisory Panel and Technical Quality Panel. Associate judge, Adelaide wine show.

varietal tasting

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GMH South Australia Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ Nose has light savoury notes over the berry fruit aromas with a vibrant, well balanced palate showing youthful fruit and good acid finish. 3-5 $20

Beresford Bell Tower McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Big hit of fruit and toasty oak on the nose and powerful earthy fruit flavours. 5+ $18.99 Organic Hill Organic Shiraz 2013 ★★★ Rich and matured with good level of bottle age integrated with the fruit and oak. $19.99 Broken River Vineyards Fred’s Red Goulburn Valley Shiraz 2004 ★★★ Very developed, earthy and leathery nose. Soft in the mouth with porty fruit flavours. $19

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2016/2015 $20-$25 32 TASTED 30 AWARDED A very strong class; a step up overall from the previous one. “Here we had ripe fruit flavours of a similar style with integrated oak”, said one judge. “These have the backbone and great tannin structures to age

Ingoldby Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ A fruity nose; lots of mulberries and raspberries which is echoed on the palate and has subtle oak sitting underneath. 3-5 $20

Pirathon Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ “Now we are talking”, enthused one judge. “Great value at this price!” Excellent depth and seamless integration of Satsuma plum-like fruit and some lovely serious cedary oak. 5+ $23 Taylors Wines Clare Valley Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 A well-made, seamlessly balanced, wine with nice depth of vibrant, youthful, peppery blackcurrant fruit. Good use of oak and a well-balanced finish. 3-5 $20

well.” Chain Of Ponds Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ Powerful sweet herbal characters on the nose with a big lift of spices. A huge palate, soft in the mouth and offering a delicious mouthful of ripe varietal fruit and lovely rich oak. 5+ $20

Thorn-Clarke Wines Sandpiper Barossa Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 Oak complexity on the nose with candied fruit edges. Chocolaty sweet shiraz fruit on the palate with subtle use of oak and slightly bitter tannins. Just needs food! $20

Jip Jip Rocks Padthaway Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 Intriguing aromas of smoky/tabac/toasty oak with hints of black fruits underneath. A lovely full-bodied palate that’s rich, balanced and very flavoursome. 3-5 $20.95 Sanguine Estate Progeny Heathcote Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 Initial impression here is of a very ripe blackcurrant-like fruit driven shiraz but then the balancing spicy oak comes into its own. A big, strong and wellmade wine. 5+ $24.95 Angas & Bremer Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Nice all round style. Has a ripe fruit nose with a perfumed lift and a rich and complex blackberry/ cigar box palate that is maturing very nicely. 5+ $20

Schild Estate Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Pleasant sweet herbal fragrances which is echoed on a palate that shows plenty of character. “Not perfect but will evolve beautifully”, said one judge. 5+ $22 Stable Hill Mustang Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 A pleasant, developing, style at its peak and offering attractive sweet/ bacony aromas and midweight spicy, chocolaty, berry flavours. A crowd pleaser. 5+ $22 Haselgrove Wines First Cut McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Rich, firm and complex with a mellow blend of earthy, porty chocolaty aromas and excellent depth of retained fruit flavours with drying oak finish to balance. 3-5 $23 Bellarine Estate Two Wives Bellarine Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Elegant, well integrated aromas with excellent berry fruit flavours opening up on the palate and balanced by the dense oak and good fruit tannins. Well made. 5+ $23.65

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September/October 2017

Nepenthe Altitude Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Earthy forest floor characters on the nose. The rich, complex, oaky palate has subtle peppery fruit elements and a long firm finish. 3-5 $20 Patritti Old Gate McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Plenty of ripe powerful varietal fruit that is well matched by the oak and strong tannins and has some interesting dry/ sour flavours. 5+ $20 Pertaringa Undercover McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ “A blockbuster”, said one judge. Dense stewed fruit aromas well matched by spicy oak. Has powerful “raw” flavours of oak and fruit. $22 Esk Valley Hawkes Bay Syrah 2015 ★★★★ Obvious but very interesting intense oaky Rhone-like style that needs more time. Lifted peppery spicy aromas and flavours. $24.99 NZ Chain Of Ponds Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 A youthful well integrated tannic wine with an excellent crimson/black colour, simple varietal fruit and a soft finish. 3-5 $20 W I N E S TAT E

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII

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Wolf Blass BLASS Reserve Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 Mellow, well integrated aromas with nicely balanced, very dry, fruit/oak palate supported by the soft tannins. 5+ $24

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawkes Bay Syrah 2015 ★★★1/2 Rhone-like style with a spicy peppery lift on the nose and the palate that has a perfumed edge adding interest. 3-5 $24.99 NZ

Invivo Wines Graham Norton’s Own South Australia Shiraz Cabernet 2015 ★★★1/2 Developing stewed plum aromas and flavours that are layered with rich savoury/earthy/gamey characters. 3-5 $20

Jacob’s Creek Barossa Signature Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Soft savoury/pencil oak aromas and solid oak driven palate with fruit holding it together. $20

Neil Hahn Yanyarrie Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Super ripe “porty” aromas and a rich and powerful palate loaded with oak, chocolaty fruit and warming alcohol. 5+ $22 Morgan Simpson Market Press McLaren Vale Fleurieu Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Dense prune-like nose; some perfumed notes. Fresh lively flavours. Good balance between fruit, acid and tannins. 5+ $24 Shingleback Davey Estate Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Full-bodied, dry and somewhat tannic wine with a lift of plums and vanilla on the nose and some solid flavours. 5+ $24

Richard Hamilton Little Road McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A chewy tannic style. Mellow integration of sweet oak and savoury fruit. Keep or drink with food. 3-5 $21

Vidal Reserve Hawkes Bay Syrah 2015 ★★★ A simple uncomplicated shiraz that has a perfumed edge to the sweet berry fruit aromas and flavours. $24.99 NZ

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2014 & OLDER $20-$25 9 TASTED 8 AWARDED Consistent class of variable wines that are still offering good character and drinkability. “The 2014 vintage marked the beginning of less fruit tannin extraction”,

Annies Lane The Locals Watervale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Nicely integrated blackcurrant fruit and vanillin oak aromas with powerful, fresh, minty fruit characters on a flavoursome palate. $22.99

Clarence Hill Red Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Well aged, nicely integrated and complex bouquet with good balance of stonefruits and soft oak flavours. Wellmade wine. 5+ $23

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2016/2015 $25-$30 31 TASTED 21 AWARDED A solid class showing the reliability of shiraz, although some did exhibit green fruit characters whilst others were overripe and raisinlike. The positive news is the appropriate level of

oak handling! Blackbilly Single Vineyard McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Nicely aged velvety plum fragrances and big porty flavours with a drying finish. “A crowd pleaser”, said one judge. $23

commented one judge. Richard Hamilton The Smuggler McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★ An excellent youthful drink with wellmaintained vibrant fruit lifted by appropriate oak. 3-5 $21 Climbing Orange Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Firm, simple and spicy nose with an austere palate showing lighter peppery fruit. $24 Sanguine Estate Progeny Heathcote Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Tarry savoury nose; nice soft berry fruit palate with well integrated oak. Nice wine - drink now! $24.95

Sanguine Estate Progeny Heathcote Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ A solid traditional style of shiraz with loads of flavour and character. The nose is firm and oaky; the palate soft, and peppery with a complexity of chocolate, prunes and blackcurrants. 5+ $24.95 George Wyndham Founder’s Reserve Shiraz Cabernet 2014 ★★★★ A pleasant uncomplicated style with sweet herbal/ peppery aromas and rich savoury/spicy palate with good level of cedary oak. 5+ $22

Brand’s Laira Blockers Coonawarra Shiraz 2013 ★★★1/2 Delicate, slightly aged, aromas. The lovely palate is clean, elegant and balanced and at its peak right now. $24.99 Jack Estate Wrattonbully Coonawarra Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Developed aromas with Tenafeate Creek barnyardy overtones which are echoed on the Wines Basket Press oak dominant palate. $22 One Tree Hill Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ Alkoomi Black Label “Unmistakable Aussie shiraz”, said one Frankland River judge. With its ripe Shiraz Viognier black fruit and mocha 2014 ★★★ Lovely nose of stonefruits oak fragrances and and oak with a firm tannic perfumed aromatics beneath and the palate. Definitely needs beautifully balanced, food! $24 flavoursome palate. “Yummy!” $28

JUDGES - DAY 4 Greg Tilbrook Barossa based winemaking consultant. Formerly senior winemaker Watson Wine Group. Former winemaker at Wynns Coonawarra winery for five years. Previously winemaker at Amberley Estate, Margaret River for six years. Completed a vintage in Languedoc, France. 70

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Rob Ruediger Wine consultant. Formerly senior production winemaker at Accolade Wines (Hardy Wine Company) involving all varieties and styles. Wine judge at Brisbane wine show.

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David Fleming Winemaker for Scarpantoni Wines. Has vintaged in California, Italy, Canada and Hungary. Formerly winemaker at Seppeltsfield in the Barossa Valley.

varietal tasting

WorldMags.net Kirrihill Wines Vineyard Selection Clare Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Old school style with a hint of funky fragrances and great line and length of flavours on a palate that shows fantastic attention to detail. $25

Sabella Vineyards McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 A lovely crimson wine with a vibrancy of plums and chocolate lifting off the nose and some fresh dark spicy fruit flavours, drying grainy tannins and nutty oak notes. $25 Taylors Wines Reserve Parcel Clare Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Deep crimson hues to this quite a tannic shiraz that has pungent spicy fruit aromas and a ripe licoricey/mulberry flavoured palate showing good level of sweetness. $25 Wolf Blass Gold Label Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 A huge, fleshy and flavoursome wine. “Not for the faint hearted!” It has a cherry-pie of a nose with meaty nuances and a “ballsy tannic palate”. “Needs a big steak”. $29 Gumpara Victor’s Old Vine Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Toasty mocha oak aromas supported by some blue fruits and flavours of the forest floor with powerful oak and piquant acidity. $25

Thorn-Clarke Wines Shotfire Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Full-bodied shiraz with strong oak elements sitting on top of the dark varietal fruit and supported by grainy tannins. $27

Mr. Riggs The Gaffer McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Another old school style with simple, well handled, spicy mulberry fruit, ‘blocky’ tannins and good use of oak. Some herbal hints. $25

Mollydooker Wines The Boxer McLaren Vale Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 “A drink now style”. Has strong, upfront, mocha/spice characters blending with raisined prune fruit and chocolaty oak. $28

Taylors Wines Winemakers Project Clare Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Raisined jammy fruit nose with some fruit cake-like spices. Rich, concentrated and complex flavours on the full-bodied palate. $25

Beresford Classic McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 A racy, high acid, style of shiraz with blue fruits, hints of licorice, a mineral edge and big grainy tannin structure. $28.99

Pepperjack Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Good balance between the two varieties with upfront shiraz fruit and nice structure from the cabernet. Should cellar well. $29.99 Pepperjack Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Dark cherry-like varietal fruit aromas well supported by mocha oak. The palate is bold and restrained at the same time. Good acidity. $29.99 Harcourt Valley Vineyards Barbara’s Bendigo Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 Aromatic fruit driven nose with licorice-like complexity and savoury beetroot-like characters filling the palate. $25 Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Perfumed lift to the dark fruit aromas. Ripe and jammy in the mouth with plenty of warming alcohol characters. $25

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Bird in Hand Two in the Bush Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Ethereal spicy/nutty fragrances and good length of fleshy mulberry/ plum flavours. $25

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Mornington Estate Mornington Peninsula Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Lifted whole bunch aromatics. Bright, fresh and complex palate with spicy fruit and grippy tannins. $25 Leconfield McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Hint of fruit cake on the nose with perfumed notes. Big drying tannic palate; nice fruit - crisp acid. $26

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W I N E S TAT E

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII

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Glenwillow Bendigo Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Smells of prunes and raisins with a big hot of oaky/fruit flavours on a well textured palate. $28

Sussex Squire Thomas Block Single Vineyard Clare Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A lifted ethereal oaky bouquet, slightly sour-like flavours and nice midpalate complexity. $28

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2014 & OLDER $25-$30

Gomersal Wines Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 ★★★ Aged chocolaty aromas with medicinal hints and good aged rhubarb-like flavours. $25

d’Arenberg The Laughing Magpie McLaren Vale Shiraz Viognier 2014 ★★★★ The apricot characters from the well-handled viognier fruit supports and adds complexity to the dark shiraz fruit. Great tannins. $29

Mornington Estate Mornington Peninsula Shiraz 2012 ★★★ Minty chocolaty nose with hints of lavender. Long lean sour cherry flavours. Slight acidic end. $25

Willoughby Bridge Heathcote Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ The nose is fresh and pretty with strawberry aromas and hints of black pepper. Very soft, dark and chocolaty in the mouth. Supple tannins. $29

Broken River Vineyards Two Old Men Goulburn Valley Shiraz 2005 ★★★ Mature leathery/earthy bouquet and dark, rich chocolaty palate complexity. Holding its age well. $25

17 TASTED 9 AWARDED A mixed bag! “Too many prematurely aged wines

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2016/2015 $30-$35

here”, agreed the judges. Those that made the cut were still fresh with some added mocha/ chocolate complexity

20 TASTED 16 AWARDED

from age.

“On average if you are going to spend thirty dollars you will be happy with these”, said Patrick of Coonawarra Estate Wrattonbully Shiraz 2012 ★★★1/2 Easy drinking style. A bit minty on the mocha nose with spicy/chocolaty complexity to the silky smooth palate. $29

Villa Maria Private Bin Hawkes Bay Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Attractive bright mulberry-like varietal fruit characters with light spicy/charry oak and medium weight tannins. Great flavour length. $25

W I N E S TAT E

Trentham Estate Family Reserve Heathcote Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Light lavender on the ‘timber-y’ nose. Rich full palate with slight honeyed/raisined flavours. $26

one judge. “No real faults here, with more consistency of palate length”. Scarpantoni Estate Block 3 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Nose is a compote of stonefruits, Chinese spices and some meatiness. The palate has weight and plenty of style with lovely chocolate, plums and lavender characters. $30

Schwarz Wine Co. Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Powerful jammy/raisined fruit aromas but with slight green edges. Big ‘beefy’ palate rich with mocha oak and powerful tannins that are still elegant and even. $30 Artwine The Kelly Surrender Single Vineyard Clare Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Malty, cedary and chocolaty on the nose with plenty of upfront oak on the long, crisp palate that has some good fruit sweetness. $30

Mr. Riggs Piebald Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ A brooding spice box of a nose with blue fruits and a dash of pepper. Full flavoured palate with plenty of crisp acidity and drying tannins. $30 Eldredge Vineyards Blue Chip Clare Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Good line and length of mulberry-like fruit with good spicy presence and nice core of dense tannins. $30 Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 A lifted oaky, spicy, minty nose and interesting flavours of strawberries, raspberries, rose petals and apricots. $30 Taylors Wines Jaraman Clare Valley McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Brooding black fruit characters on the nose with high oak note. Big impact of oak on the dark fruit palate. Very good! $30

Montara Gold Rush Grampians Shiraz 2014 ★★★ A pretty aromatic bouquet with obvious whole bunch fruit characters on the crisp palate. $27

September/October 2017

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Redgate Single Vineyard Margaret River Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Peppery plum bouquet with some tight oak. Good weight and richness to the palate with even tannin presentation. $33 Limb Vineyards Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Spicy, licorice, berry fruit nose with oak underneath. Crisp palate has blueberry flavours. $30 Normans Wines Old Vine McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Big oaky lift to the nose with simple fruit palate, even tannins and crisp acidity. $30 Songlines Estates Bylines McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Dark, brooding, fruitdriven fragrances and warm malty/licorice-like flavours. $30 Caudo Vineyards Murraylands Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Medium bodied style with bright peppery/spicy fruit, vanillin oak and balancing tannins. $30 Four Winds Vineyard Canberra District Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Slightly green/menthol nuances to the nose. Slightly acidic/spicy palate; good flavour persistence. $30 Galafrey Dry Grown Mt Barker Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A ripe and slightly porty style of shiraz with a sweet palate entry and big gamey tannins. $30 Longview Yakka Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A cherry nose lifted with oak complexity. Lots of oak on a fresh, crisp palate. Plenty of life in it yet. $30

varietal tasting

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Majella Coonawarra Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Simple fruit nose dominated by the oak with more strong oak on the piquant cranberry palate. $30

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2014 & OLDER $30-$35 17 TASTED 11 AWARDED “There were good old fashioned styles here along with forward contemporary ones”, noted one of the judges. Grandeur Wellington Bin 69 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 A big, bold ‘old school’ style of shiraz that is big and rich and chocolaty with some massive oak characters but they don’t dominate the wine. Strong fruited palate. $30

Artwine The Kelly Surrender Single Vineyard Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Another old fashioned style with light licorice notes to the nose and warming, well integrated palate. Good tannin weight; nice acid. $30 Galafrey Dry Grown Mt Barker Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Bright mix of ripe spicy mulberry aromas with nice sweet plum fruit flavours, some light spiciness and good tannin presence. $30 Heartland Directors’ Cut Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Blue/black fruit aromas nicely tempered by lifted cedary oak. Big hit of licorice and dark chocolate flavours with good acid backbone. $33

Te Awa Single Estate Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2014 ★★★★ Pretty perfumed violet fragrances with subtle oaky notes. The well balanced palate is rich and ripe - sweet and savoury. $34.99 NZ

Majella Coonawarra Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Fragrant floral bouquet with oak in a supporting role. Nice balance and persistence of warming peppery fruit flavours. $30

Kings of Kangaroo Ground Heathcote Shiraz 2013 ★★★ A full bodied wine that has nice lifted briary fruit, powerful oak and tannins. $30

Grandeur Wellington Bin 69 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 ★★★1/2 Intense powerful fruit nose with hints of boot polish-like nuances. Great density of tannins on the spicy licorice palate. $30

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2016/2015 $35-$40

Drayton’s Family Wines Vineyard Reserve Pokolbin Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Toasty oaky aromas and flavours layered with red fruits, crisp acid and a tannic finish. $30 Reillys Wines Dry Land Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Powerful wine; lots of oak and fruit. Has minty notes to the nose and grainy tannins on the palate. $32 Morambro Creek Padthaway Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Smells of cherries with a high toasty oak element with a smooth syrupy black fruit palate. $34.95

25 TASTED 19 AWARDED Generally we see big rich flavours here showing a good understanding of the variety. “The more highly awarded wines showed a fine balance of fruit and oak”, said one judge. “The 2016s had primary flavours and the four stars or higher here are a real bargain!”

Chateau Yaldara Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 A wine one judge described as being, “Beautifully focussed and with purpose”. Chocolate and raspberries lift off the nose with integrated plum fruit and spicy oak flavours. $35

Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ Deep crimson, old school Aussie style with a powerful concentration of oak and mulberry fruit aromas. Rich full-bodied mulberry and plum palate that has excellent grainy tannins. $37.99

Love. passion. The secret ingredients. Handmade & freshly baked. Beautifully crafted. By Blackbird - Shop 3, 44-46 King William Road, Goodwood, SA 5034 phone: +61 0402 358 002 email: cknblackbird@gmail.com #byblackbird @byblackbird

ByBlackbird44KWR

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W I N E S TAT E

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII

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Patritti Lot Three McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Ripe plum/mulberry fragrances well integrated with the mocha oak. Lots of spiciness on the flavoursome, old style, sweet plum palate with dusty tannins. $35 Domaine Asmara Private Collection Heathcote Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ Very young, medium bodied, jubey primary fruit style. Fresh aromas and vibrant spicy sweet flavours with ripe tannins. $35 Kings of Kangaroo Ground Avondale Heathcote Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Dense syrupy rhubarb/ raisined varietal fruit characters with well thought out use of oak and good length of grainy tannins. $35

Palmer Wines Purebred by Bruce Dukes Margaret River Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Full-bodied wine. The wood is a tad forward and tending to dominate the jammy varietal fruit. Has good level of ripe tannins. $38 Kangaroo Island Trading Co. Kangaroo Island Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Attractive aromas of mulberries, violets and chocolate. Some pleasant flavours with balancing tannins and crisp line of acid. $39 Neil Hahn Catharina Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Another soft and generous old school style with an abundance of cherry cola fruit, some dense supporting tannins and vanillin oak. $39.95

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McLaren Vale III Associates The Decendant of Squid Ink Single Vineyard Estate Grown McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 An immature, uber fresh wine with a pot pourri of aromas and good flavour persistence with fleshy tannins. $35

Millbrook Winery Estate Perth Hills Shiraz Viognier 2015 ★★★1/2 Fresh and vibrant with pleasant ethereal spicy cherry bouquet. Palate is sweet and short but has a certain poise. $35 Sanguine Estate Inception Heathcote Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Nose is almost prunelike with underlying spices. Fleshy and flavoursome in the mouth; good structure and weight. $39.95 Brash Vineyard Single Vineyard Margaret River Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Good oaky aromas frame the inky fruit. Palate is a seamless integration of oak, fruit and tannins. $35 Chain Of Ponds Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A fragrant violet lift to the raisined fruit nose and upfront richness on the warming palate. $35

Zonte’s Footstep Hills are Alive Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A monster of a wine with rich ripe raisined/licoricey fruit characters and lots of mocha oak. $35

Kopparossa Estate Coonawarra Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ Fruit still very primary and fresh with a delicate floral lift. The palate is beautiful, complex and balanced with lovely length of spicy/ peppery elements and mouthcoating tannins. 5+ $35

Zonte’s Footstep Baron Von Nemesis Barossa Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A soft simple shiraz with sweet/sour fruit aromas and flavours showing slight stalky green notes. $35 Tatalia Wines Heathcote Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A fusion of cool climate varietal fruit, spicy cedary oak and ‘squeaky’ tannins. $36 Palmer Wines Purebred by Clive Otto Margaret River Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Spicy peppery nose with light stalky greenness and slight sappy, one dimensional, palate. $38

Brash Vineyard Single Vineyard Margaret River Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ A rich, powerful and very flavoursome wine with plenty of appealing chocolate and cherry aromas with traces of licorice. Sweet upfront fruit on the weighty, balanced, palate. $35 Sanguine Estate Inception Heathcote Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ Nose has a pleasant headful of lifted dark fruit, chocolate and tapenade and the rich powerful palate offers complex fruit, chocolate and smoked meat flavours. 5+ $39.95

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2014 & OLDER $35-$40 20 TASTED 15 AWARDED Very strong at the pointy end. Some different

Sanguine Estate Inception Heathcote Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Lovely fragrances of dark fruits, violets and hints of vanilla. Elegant, well balanced, palate; plenty of acid to drive the floral fruit with firm tannins. 5+ $39.95

styles from good

vintages, ranging from Pertaringa Regional Series McLaren Vale rich concentrated wines Shiraz 2015 ★★★ to the aromatic, elegant Green herbal fruit bouquet cooler climate ones. with briary fruit flavours and river pebble-like minerality. $35 Schwarz Wine Co. Meta Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Aromatic cherry plum nose with stalky characters dominating the long, drying palate. $35

September/October 2017

Wills Domain Single Vineyard Block 5 Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ Opulent varietal nose with a lovely core of red fruit aromas and hints of violets. Long and elegant palate that’s fresh and sweet and layered with “delicate lacy tannins.” 5+ $36

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Pepperjack Certified Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ★★★★1/2 Powerful balanced dark chocolate/Christmas spice varietal aromas and a persistence of dark fruit and spicy oak flavours. Ageing gracefully. 5+ $35

varietal tasting

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Tatiarra Cambrian Heathcote Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ “Very decadent nose!” Lots of chocolate, strawberries and oranges. Great concentration and length of sweet fruit flavours. Obvious oak. 5+ $35 2 Mates McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Lifted blackcurrant/dark berry aromatics and a luscious sweet fruit palate with silky smooth tannin support. $35 Twisted Gum Single Vineyard Dry Grown Granite Belt Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 A lithe youthful shiraz with complex fruit characters and high level of acidity. Needs more time to evolve. 5+ $35

Yarravale Reserve Yarra Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★1/2 Aromatic red fruit aromas with subtle floral and chocolate notes. Delicious, slightly porty flavours with fresh acidity. 5+ $36 Haselgrove Wines Catkin McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Slightly closed coffee/ mocha characters on the nose with jammy fruit flavours. 5+ $35 Kings of Kangaroo Ground Heathcote Shiraz 2014 ★★★ A wine with plenty of personality! Minty red fruit nose and well defined raspberry flavours. 3-5 $35 Scotchmans Hill Bellarine Peninsula Shiraz 2014 ★★★ A complex nose with noticeable, but not dominant, oak. Lovely varietal fruit flavour intensity. 5+ $35

Twisted Gum Single Vineyard Dry Grown Granite Belt Shiraz Cabernet 2014 ★★★ Aromas reminiscent of peat and capsicum. Lean sinewy palate with rhubarb flavours. $35

Sirromet Wines Signature Collection Granite Belt Shiraz Viognier 2014 ★★★ A pretty lifted sweet fruit bouquet with floral characters dominating the elegant cherry palate. $36

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2016/2015 $40-$50 18 TASTED 17 AWARDED A step above here with a consistency of recommendations and very few faults overall. “There is a diversity of styles and quality fruit here”, said one of the judges.

Domaine Asmara Reserve Heathcote Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ An aromatic medley of fruits-of-the-forest, spices and chocolate. The elegant palate has incredible balance and complexity, loads of beautiful fruit and exceptional tannins. 5+ $45 Church Road Grand Reserve Hawkes Bay Syrah 2015 ★★★★★ Beautiful, delicate aromatics swell from the glass. Loads of pepper on the palate but nicely integrated with the rich varietal fruit and tannins. Mouth-watering acidity and a lingering finish. 5+ $42 Pertaringa Over the Top McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Cherries and raspberries lift off the nose with some oak evident but not overpowering. A strong well balanced savoury/chocolate palate with upfront sweetness. 5+ $40 919 Reserve Riverland Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 A youthful dark purple wine that’s built to last with a richness of dark fruits and new oak aromas and juicy acid driving through the complex dark fruit palate. 5+ $42

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September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII

WorldMags.net Berton Vineyards The Bonsai High Eden Shiraz Cabernet 2015 ★★★★ Lifted cabernet characters obvious on the nose and a complex palate structure with good savoury fruit profile and angular tannins. 5+ $40 Haselgrove Wines Catkin McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Slightly subdued and savoury on the nose with a rich and complex palate that has lots of savoury elements mixing with the sweet red fruit. 5+ $40 Taltarni Estate Pyrenees Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Delicate lifted red fruit bouquet with floral aromatics. The rich complex palate has plenty of personality, lovely flavour profile and a long, lingering, toasty finish. 5+ $40 K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 A hint of lavender on an elegant nose with more of the florals on the palate and a suggestion of rhubarb pie flavours. Has sweet oak and silky tannins. 5+ $45 Domaine Asmara Reserve Heathcote Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ Smelling of fruit pastilles with a lift of spices. The dark chocolaty palate is a touch syrupy with floral nuances. Needs time to gain complexity. 5+ $45

Ross Hill Pinnacle Series Griffin Road Vineyard Orange Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 A brooding fusion of cherries and Sarsaparilla on the nose and nicely focussed strawberry flavours with minty notes. $45 Kalleske Greenock Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Lifted greenish/oaky bouquet. Upfront fruit palate with elegant tannins and lingering finish. 5+ $40

Peter Lehmann Wines Eight Songs Barossa Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ Imagine dark chocolate, roasted nuts and espresso coffee and you have this nose. The generous palate is flavoursome from front to back with great depth, complexity and length. 5+ $45

Mount Avoca Old Vine Pyrenees Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Smells of chocolate truffles with mainly secondary flavours on the oak dominated palate. 5+ $45.95

Deep Woods Estate Reserve Block 7 Margaret River Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Pleasant youthful varietal aromas over some powerful oak. Gorgeous silky smooth palate with lovely acidity accentuating the fruit. $45

Bellarine Estate Two Wives Geelong Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ A lovely inky red wine with a long future ahead of it. Nose offers beautiful spicy fragrances with some florals over peppery red fruit which is all repeated on the delicious palate. 5+ $45

Mount Avoca Malakoff Pyrenees Shiraz 2015 ★★★ An attractive flavoursome wine; a harmony of blackcurrants, roasted meats and nuttiness. $45.95

Mollydooker Wines Blue Eyed Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Nose had plenty of oak sitting on top of opulent fruit. The palate is a “decadence” of fruit and oak. “Feels like sitting in a Chesterfield!” 5+ $49

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2014 & OLDER $40-$50 28 TASTED 25 AWARDED

919 Reserve Riverland Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 A lively Turkish Delight nose with the oak tending to dominate the simple and youthful black cherry palate. $42

Very strong consistent

Romney Park Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ The bright red plum aromas have savoury undertones and slight portiness. Tight linear palate has a lovely ethereal character with excellent focus of red licorice flavours. Nice spicy finish. 5+ $45

Casella Limited Release McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ Great wine; complex and perfectly balanced with developed leathery/ truffle-like aromas and slightly overpowering/ drying oak on the palate but has plenty of fruit to carry it. 5+ $45

class with a lot more highlights. “The older wines were still in good condition”, observed one judge. “The

Maygars Hill Reserve Strathbogie Ranges Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 A pleasant refined style with youthful fruit, subtle fine grained oak and delicate tannins. Easy drinking style. 5+ $42

colours were still quite exceptional and the complex structure and length was there”, said another.

STAR RATINGS ★★★★★ Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing. ☎ Contact information pg 127-128. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au

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September/October 2017

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varietal tasting

WorldMags.net James Haselgrove Futures McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Brooding bouquet of strawberries and chocolate truffles. Full generous palate with meaty/gravy-like savoury flavours and beautiful harmony between tannins and oak. 5+ $40

Blue Pyrenees Section One Pyrenees Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Nose of cherries, mushrooms and leather with the same red fruit expression on the luscious palate with its salivating acid and strong oaky/tannic finish. 3-5 $40

Domaine Asmara Reserve Heathcote Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Savoury, stock cube characters mingle with the dark fruit fragrances. Intense concentrated palate has great power and balance and acid gives freshness to the fruit flavours. 5+ $45

Wolf Blass Grey Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Slightly closed nose with brooding fragrant aromatics. A generous palate, velvety smooth in the mouth and full of sweet red fruits and delicate tannins. “Beautiful!” 5+ $45

Kirrihill Wines Single Vineyard Tullymore Clare Valley Shiraz 2010 ★★★★1/2 Lots of dark fruit fragrances showing meaty/forestry elements and a heavy concentration and complexity of red and black fruit flavours. Ageing very well. 3-5 $45

Ben Potts Fiddle’s Block Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2013 ★★★★1/2 Cherry and blueberry nose; oak present but in balance. Sweet luscious palate is brimming over with blue fruits and drying tannins with lovely fresh acidity. 5+ $40

3 Rings Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006 ★★★★1/2 Lovely varietal fruit expression for an older wine. Very savoury nose with secondary characters evident. Luscious palate. Spicy, meaty, chocolaty flavours pack a punch. 5+ $49

Dear wine producer, we believe in well informed decisions. During our quest as importers in the wine and spirits industry of Sweden we have learnt our lesson. Well informed decision making is the single most sought out property from our collaborators. We have also watched how this increasingly has become a larger and larger part of how we spend our time. In an efort to provide You as a producer with a more comprehensive and relevant informtion bank we have taken the decision to initiate the Swedish Wine Watch. An entirely new concept of spreading information about the present, future and past of the Swedish drinks industry. Come aboard today or miss out.

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September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII

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Beresford Estate Blewitt Springs Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Beautiful vibrant, lifted varietal fruit here in the rich dark red fruit spectrum. Good acid/ tannin balance and long savoury finish. 5+ $49.99 Angas Valley Gold Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ Lovely core of sweet dark forest fruit aromas and powerful, almost gamey, palate developing secondary characters. Some sweetness. 5+ $40 Landaire Wines Padthaway Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ Powerful wine with an abundance of plums, blackberries and Christmas spices with a dash of Kirsch. Some sweetness and soft tannins. 5+ $40 Claymore Wines Nirvana Reserve Clare Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ A big, well-structured wine with a powerful hit of jammy fruit, grippy tannins and a fortified-like character with leathery age. 3-5 $45 Merindoc Single Vineyard Heathcote Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ Projects aromas like cooked beetroot with some pickles! Meaty/ savoury palate, good fruit length and lovely silky tannins. $45

Zema Estate Family Selection Coonawarra Shiraz 2012 ★★★★ Mature leathery bouquet with herbal hints. Elegant palate; developed sweet fruit flavours, lots of oak and chalky tannins. 5+ $48.50

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Alkoomi Icon Range Jarrah Frankland River Shiraz 2011 ★★★★ A bright wine showing its age very well. Lifted earthy/red fruit aromas and firmly structured palate with primary fruit still present. 5+ $45 Landaire Wines Padthaway Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Fragrant perfumed bouquet and lovely silky smooth palate that is all about the fruit with oak in the background. 3-5 $40 Kilikanoon Wines Covenant Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 An elegant seamlessly balanced shiraz with exotic aromas and slight confectionery fruit flavours. 5+ $44 Schild Estate Ben Schild Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Attractive characters of dark fruits, vanilla oak and tarry licorice notes. 5+ $40

SHIRAZ & BLENDS $50-$60

McGuigan Handmade Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2012 ★★★ Subdued nose; underlying dark sweet fruits. Sinewy palate with appealing sweet/sour flavours. 3-5 $45

September/October 2017

Grampians Estate St Ethels Grampians Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Generous and complex shiraz projecting aromas of blackcurrants, violets and oak. Intriguing soy-like savoury compounds on the palate. Could do with more time. 5+ $50

26 TASTED 24 AWARDED A fantastic class of highly recommended and consistent wines. “The wines had flavour and length, richness and complexity and nice depth of colour”, said one judge. “Many of these show good secondary development without losing complexity”.

McLaren Vale III Associates Squid Ink Reserve Single Vineyard Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ The nose shouts of smoked meats and blackberries. The generous, luscious palate is developing savoury notes sitting on top of the bright varietal fruit. Has long brooding tannins. 5+ $55

Mr. Riggs McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 A very powerful deep cherry red wine, still youthful, with sweet floral/plum fruit seamlessly balanced by the oak which adds structure and complexity. 5+ $50

St Hugo Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ A gorgeous beautiful balanced wine that has great elegance and subtle complexity. Smells like plum pudding and tastes of dark chocolate, dark berry fruits and some spices. 5+ $58

C.J. Wicks Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2013 ★★★ A flavoursome blend of rhubarb, sweet briary fruit, vanilla and herbal-like elements. 5+ $45 Dromana Estate Mornington Peninsula Syrah 2013 ★★★ Porty, meaty and savoury on the nose with rich red plum flavours showing herbaceous notes. 3-5 $49

Allinda Yarra Valley Syrah 2016 ★★★★1/2 Vibrant plum and raspberry fragrances balanced by subtle oak. Beautifully layered palate. Pretty floral/violet flavours, noticeable oak and lingering tannins. 5+ $50

Patrick of Coonawarra Joanna Wrattonbully Shiraz 2012 ★★★ Fragrant oak dominates the nose and palate with delicate fruit hidden underneath. 5+ $45

Gumpara Mader Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ A powerful and seductive wine with tremendous depth, richness and complexity of dark berry varietal fruit characters layered with spicy mocha oak and persistent powdery tannins. $50

Pepperjack Porterhouse Graded Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ Good volume of lifted floral red fruit aromas with hints of oak. Lovely elegance of ‘Cherry Ripe’-like flavours supported by a tight acid structure and powdery tannins. 5+ $50

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Zonte’s Footstep Z Force McLaren Vale Shiraz Petite Sirah 2014 ★★★★1/2 A complex savoury/ gamey combination of aromas. The generous palate starts fruity and sweet but finishes quite savoury. Still very youthful. Needs time. 5+ $55

varietal tasting

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St Hugo Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Nose has delicate nuances of sweet blueberries, lavender and slight herbal notes. Well structured palate has dark fruit flavours, Christmas spices and fine tannins. 5+ $58 Tenafeate Creek Wines Basket Press One Tree Hill Shiraz 2010 ★★★★1/2 Beautifully balanced aromas of plums, olives and gamey nuances. Copious amounts and length of upfront dark, rich chocolaty fruit flavours. Ageing perfectly. 5+ $55

Sanguine Estate D’Orsa Heathcote Shiraz 2009 ★★★★1/2 Lovely aged bouquet; a suggestion of mint, figs and violets. Generous, slightly fortified, flavours with beautiful savoury elements. Still has hints of fresh fruit remaining. 5+ $59.95

Yarravale Reserve Yarra Valley Shiraz 2005 ★★★★1/2 A strawberry jam nose with mushroomy maturity. Plenty of fruit on the palate but just starting to fade. Has some savoury elements. Pleasant drinking now. 3-5 $50 Pepperjack Scotch Fillet Graded McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Intense freshness of minty, toasty black fruit-like aromas. Tannins in perfect balance with the chocolaty/tobacco palate. 5+ $50

Gatt Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Seamlessly balanced wine beginning to show gamey/leathery secondary development with elegant silky tannins and toasty oak. 5+ $55 Byrne Vineyards Antiquarian Barossa SA Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Delightful expression of berry fruits on the nose and there is an abundance of ripe chocolaty fruit flavours with good tannic grip. 5+ $59 Sanguine Estate D’Orsa Heathcote Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Rich succulent aromas of mushrooms, plums and cherries. Powerful palate has masses of varietal fruit and secondary flavours. 5+ $59.95

Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2014 ★★★★ The attractive fragrant nose is aromatic and perfumed. The palate has a robust spicy sour cherry flavour profile and apple-like acidity. 5+ $59.99 NZ Gatt Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ Smells of deli meats with a core of prunes which is echoed on the complex, powerful and seamlessly balanced palate. 5+ $55 Wolf Blass Brown Label Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ A structurally sound wine, still looks fresh and youthful and has a complexity of perfumed dark fruits, chocolaty oak and roasted meats. 5+ $55

Gumpara Mader Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 This complex, wellstructured wine shows beautiful varietal fruit purity, spicy oak and delicate but persistent tannins. 5+ $50 Grampians Estate Garden Gully Vineyard Barrel Block Grampians Shiraz 2014 ★★★ A cool climate style with primary sweet red fruits, some spiciness and chocolaty notes. 5+ $50 Gatt High Eden Eden Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★ A “hearty” wine; balanced and complex. Herbal elements on the nose, rich meaty flavours. 3-5 $55

Amadio Wines Cellar Door and Function Centre is conveniently located just minutes from Adelaide CBD. The facility offers the convenient of being self - contained and is ideal for broad range of events including seminars, birthdays, cocktail parties, engagements, meetings, group dinners and anything in – between. Come and join us on the first Friday of each month for Wine Down Friday. Kick back and enjoy our amazing wine range, great food selection and live music.

461 Payneham Road, Felixstow SA 5070 | p 08 8365 5988 | e sales@amadiowines.com | www.amadiowines.com

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September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII

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Jack Estate Mythology Coonawarra Shiraz 2013 ★★★ Floral bouquet with a whiff of strawberries. Agreeable brooding oaky flavours. Assertive acidity. 5+ $55

Shingleback D Block Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 ★★★ Smells of black jelly beans with rich lifted fruit pastille flavours. Slightly aggressive tannins. 5+ $55

SHIRAZ & BLENDS $60-$70 24 TASTED 21 AWARDED Generally the group all had plenty of flavour, which is expected at this price. Those few that

from cool climate regions, were picked too early, or suffered from early development. Reillys Wines RCV Pressings Clare Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ Earthy characters obvious on the estery herbal nose. The big, tannic palate is spicy and lively with masses of sweet fruit, inviting cedary oak and plenty of alcohol warmth. 3-5 $65

d’Arenberg The Dead Arm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ Dense black fruit and charred oak aromas with strong tarry overtones. Intense sweet varietal fruit flavours fill the tightly structured palate with good oak and acid integration. 5+ $65

Orlando Lawson’s Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ Delightfully aged aromas of blackberries and cedar. The perfectly structured palate is brimming over with attractive sweet fruit and oak flavours and has firm but velvety tannins. 3-5 $65

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Reillys Wines RCV Epitaph Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 A big, dry, blockbuster of a wine, heavy with soft, warm, licoricey fruit and mocha oak aromas and flavours and laced with huge mouth puckering tannins. 5+ $65 Patritti JPB McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Ripe fruit-driven aromas with huge hit of oak and a big tannic palate that’s fresh and lively with primary fruit flavours. A keeper. 5+ $60 Metala Black Label Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Beautifully composed nose with aromas of cranberries, spices and oak and lingering fruit flavours well balanced by the oak. 5+ $64.99

September/October 2017

The Old Faithful Café Block McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 ★★★1/2 An aromatic complexity of black fruits and savoury oak with concentrated licoricey flavours and fine drying tannins. $60

Tatiarra Caravan of Dreams Pressings Heathcote Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ A complex old fashioned style. An abundance of ripe fruit aromas and complex, developing flavours reminiscent of plum pudding! $65

The Old Faithful Café Block McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 ★★★1/2 A massive developed shiraz with powerful stewed fruit bouquet and luxuriously rich sweet fruit flavours. $60

Taltarni Reserve Pyrenees Shiraz Cabernet 2013 ★★★★ Medium bodied, seamlessly balanced wine with wellintegrated aromas and nicely structured cedary/ savoury palate. Tannic finish. $65

lacked depth were left out and were usually

Taltarni Reserve Pyrenees Shiraz Cabernet 2014 ★★★★ Complex blueberry/ raspberry fruit bouquet with a background of oak. Plenty of sweet fruit flavours and persistent oaky finish. $65

Sanguine Estate D’Orsa Heathcote Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Herbal fragrances with slight tarry notes. Seamless oaky flavours with attractive licoricelike notes and good acidity. $69.95 The Colonial Estate Exile Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Quite developed leathery/earthy characters on the nose with good length of the pleasant prune/plum flavours. $60

Mappinga Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Dense blend of oak and fruit aromas with dry savoury flavours and good level of astringency. 5+ $60 Murray Street Vineyards Gomersal Estate Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Dense nose; smells of tar and licorice. The lean tannic palate has good flavour persistence. Needs food. $60 Murray Street Vineyards Greenock Estate Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ A mellow stewed fruit bouquet with a similar palate that shows a savoury edge. $60 Sirromet Wines Le Sauvage ‘The Wild’ Granite Belt Syrah Viognier 2014 ★★★ “A classy and very different wine.” It is intense but not in the traditional jammy style. $65

Drayton’s Family Wines William Pokolbin Shiraz 2013 ★★★1/2 Developing dark fruit/ tarry oak bouquet and a lean dry palate with mid-weight sweet fruit Cornelius by flavours and soft tannins. Scotchmans Hill Single Vineyard 5+ $60 Bellarine Peninsula Shiraz 2012 ★★★ Dense and developed spicy fruit aromas with interesting Rhone-like cool climate flavours. $60

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The Old Faithful Top of the Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 ★★★ A soft integration of fruit and oak with a similar palate and long lingering after taste. 5+ $60 Clayfield Grampians Shiraz 2012 ★★★ Fleshy dark fruit fragrances and ripe plum fruit flavours that are balanced by appropriate oak. $65

SHIRAZ & BLENDS $70-$80 19 TASTED 15 AWARDED Perhaps a similar, but riper result from the previous group. There were a few wines that were still quite primary and could have used more bottle maturation to justify the price. Taylors Wines St Andrews Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ A classy wine; an excellent example of style with seamless integration between intense sweet blackberry fruit and serious oak. A smooth palate with very persistent flavours. 5+ $70 Vidal Legacy Series Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2014 ★★★★1/2 Great intensity of peppery red fruit aromas. A firm, but not tannic, palate that has a fine savoury structure, spicy flavour persistence and a good level of acidity. 5+ $79.99 NZ Wills Domain Cuvée d’ Élevage Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Quite fresh dark fruit aromas with big hit of oak. A well-structured and well maintained elegant palate with slightly jammy flavours. $75

varietal tasting

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Shingleback Unedited McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Nose still youthful with good depth of plum aromas. Has solid wellstructured flavours that are quite astringent and almost austere. Time. 5+ $79.95 McGuigan Personal Reserve Bainton Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ A tight and lean style that has cool stalky red berry fruit, nice savoury oak and obvious acidity with great flavour persistence. $75

Montara Chalambar Road Single Vineyard Grampians Shiraz 2010 ★★★★ Quite developed leathery, earthy, nutty bouquet and the palate offers a big rich mouthful of sweet tarry/raisined fruit and oak. $70 Domaine Asmara Infinity Heathcote Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 A full, fruit-driven, wine quite soft and developing nice licoricey characters with the oak still tending to dominate. $75 Grampians Estate Streeton Reserve Grampians Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Very elegant and extremely youthful cool climate style. Good fruit/ oak integration. Needs time. $75

Montara Chalambar Road Single Vineyard Grampians Shiraz 2012 ★★★ Big and hot with porty/ jammy fruit characters, some solid oak and nice drying tannins. $70

Saltram No.1 Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ “A sublime blackberry fruit bouquet”, according to one judge. It’s rich and complex. Great level of fruit flavours with lovely retained fruit vibrancy. Warming finish. $99.99

SHIRAZ & BLENDS $80-$100

Wolf Blass Estates of the Barossa Dorrien Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ A traditional style; a blackberry bomb! Seamless aromas, a touch of jamminess with a tannic palate that has great depth of flavour well integrated with the tannins. $85

23 TASTED 22 AWARDED “A stunning class for the price”, agreed the judging panel. “The wines had great fruit richness and appropriate use of oak and surprisingly offer good value for money considering the quality they delivered”.

Schild Estate Pramie Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ A big soft old fashioned style that delivers dense tarry aromas and solid sweet fruit flavours. $70

Haselgrove Wines Col Cross McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ Nicely ageing tarry/ squid ink aromas and beautifully developed palate with great depth of ripe fruit pastille-like flavours and firm drying tannins. At its peak now. $90

Wolf Blass Estates of the Barossa Lyndoch Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ Vibrant crimson wine. Dense blackberry fruit/ oak nose with a light tarry edge. The palate is full, rich and flavoursome with appropriate oak and drying tannins. $85

Haselgrove Wines The Lear McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ Fruit cake-like richness and ripeness on the nose with supporting oak. Great persistence of intense blackberry flavours, not jammy, with savoury element. Fine tannins. 5+ $90

Haselgrove Wines The Lear McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ A lighter style of shiraz with the oak a tad more obvious. Mellow, unctuous aromas and a classy palate. Excellent flavour depth, good acidity and lingering finish. 5+ $90

Wills Domain Cuvée d’ Élevage Shiraz 2014 ★★★ A pleasant wine that has simple estery primary fruit with subtle use of the oak. $75 Mollydooker Wines Carnival of Love McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Excellent blackberry and prune fruit impact on nose and palate. Has ripe fruit aromas and is soft in the mouth with a drying finish. $75 Shingleback Unedited McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Raspberry fruit bouquet with a hint of spices and a touch of orange peel and has elegant well balanced flavours. Will cellar for a long time! $79.95

McGuigan Farms Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★ Dense rich prune/licorice aromas and very intense flavours of oak and prunes. Good cellaring potential. $75 Rusty Mutt Vermilion Bird McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 ★★★ Amazingly youthful and tightly structured with the fruit still fresh and primary and spicy oak to match. $77

Haselgrove Wines The Ambassador McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ Dense and developed nose smelling of brooding berry fruits with creamy cashew characters. The very flavoursome palate fills out with rich ripe plum fruit and spicy oak. $85

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September/October 2017

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WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XII

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Claymore Wines Ian Rush Signature Series Clare Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ Very traditional, very gamey style of shiraz. Huge, dense, licorice/ black fruit characters on the nose which are echoed on the big soft palate. At its peak now. $95

Saltram No.1 Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ Classy richness and ripeness on the nose that’s not at all jammy. Well aged, intense and persistent berry flavours. Ageing well but still has great cellaring potential. $99.99 Haselgrove Wines The Ambassador McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Rich, ripe and licoricey nose; good oak/fruit integration. Palate described by one judge as a “Bull’s blood palate!”. Good depth of fruit flavours matched by dry tannins. 5+ $85 Haselgrove Wines Col Cross McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 A high alcohol, traditional, style with porty blackberry bouquet. Great palate structure and seamless balance between the fruit, tannins and acid. $90

Kopparossa Estate Vintage Reserve Coonawarra Shiraz 2012 ★★★★ Super ripe fruit bouquet with estery development. Intense concentration of varietal fruit flavours. Ready for drinking right now! $95

Jacob’s Creek Centenary Hill Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 ★★★★1/2 Intense blackberry fragrances with cashew-like oak adding complexity. Lovely lean, and perfectly matured, palate, with persistent flavours. “Damn fine wine”. $82

Saltram Single Vineyard Marble Quarry Rd. Shiraz 2012 ★★★★1/2 Potent prune and plum nose with masses of very developed, rich, ripe aged varietal flavours. Lots of drying tannins and a warming finish. Drink soon. $99 Wolf Blass Estates of the Barossa St Johns Road Ebenezer Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Firm savoury oak aromas with slight jammy fruit characters. The palate is big, soft and rich with black fruit/ savoury oak flavours. Needs food. $85

Richard Hamilton Centurion 123 Year Old Vine McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A deep crimson wine with simple primary, raspberry-like, varietal fruit and fine tannins. $80 Kilikanoon Wines Oracle Clare Valley Shiraz 2012 ★★★ “Quite light in style for this flight”, thought one judge. Shows plenty of leathery age and drying tannins. $80

SHIRAZ & BLENDS $100-$200 16 TASTED 14 AWARDED

Mount Avoca Reserve Pyrenees Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Obvious oak on the nose but well matched by the licoricey/blackberry fruit. A leanness to the palate from the acidity but has intense flavours. $89.95

“A bit of a no-man’s land here”, said one judge. “Generally these are of a high standard but some could have been in the previous price bracket rather than this one. It is great to appreciate

Bird in Hand Nest Egg Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Deep crimson wine. Classy, beautifully aged and well-integrated aromas with intense jammy fruit flavours. Soft and sweet in the mouth and a warming finish. 5+ $99 Beresford Limited Release McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 ★★★★1/2 A huge, but not clumsy, wine. Very complex leathery, savoury, dark fruit bouquet. Big sweet and very flavoursome palate. High level of tannins and acid. $80

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Grandeur Wellington Cellar Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ The wine is almost black in colour with rich jammy blackberry aromas and a massive sweet alcoholic palate. Very traditional style. $90 Grandeur Wellington Cellar Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ An attractive, traditional, jammy/ porty shiraz that is at its peak. Massive, matured aromas and a seamless flavour profile. $90

September/October 2017

some of the older wines at their peak. Respect the aged!”

Tenafeate Creek Wines Judgement One Tree Hill Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 A brooding complexity of oak and fruit aromas with dense savoury notes and intense strawberry fruit flavours with excellent length and persistence and a warm finish. $100

Chateau Yaldara Grand Pappy’s Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Bright stewed fruit bouquet with “complexity plus!”. A classy flavour profile persists to the end of the soft sweet and supple palate. $120

Peter Lehmann Wines Stonewell Barossa Shiraz 2012 ★★★★1/2 Condensed well integrated ripe blackberry and oak bouquet that’s developing nicely. Firm palate structure and good solid flavours with good honest intensity. $100 Saltram The Journal Centennarian Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Bright crimson wine that has inky velvety aromas and slightly austere, cool climate, green fruit palate with a warming finish. $170 Gatt Old Vine Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Developed smoky cedary nose with a hint of the “sweaty saddle” characters. Lovely flavoursome palate with barnyardy overtones. $100

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Mollydooker Wines Velvet Glove McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Super ripe blackberry aromas leap out of the glass and has big, hot jammy fruit flavours balanced by some good oak tannins. $185

varietal tasting

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Gatt Old Vine Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ A hot jammy wine with powerful developed characters. It smells like a basket of berries and has a lovely compote of berry flavours. $100

Jacob’s Creek Johann Barossa Shiraz Cabernet 2012 ★★★★ An attractive fruit-driven, cool climate, style with herbaceous aromas and primary plum fruit flavours with plenty of acid and tannins. $120 Gralyn Reserve Margaret River Shiraz 2009 ★★★★ A nice ripe fruity style that, even after eight years, still has fresh fruit aromas. The palate is fully developed and at its peak now. $120

Geoff Merrill Henley McLaren Vale Shiraz 2006 ★★★★ Well made developed tarry bouquet with Hessian-like bottle age characters. Great depth of big sweet fruit flavours and drying oak. $150 Kalleske Johann Georg Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Attractive, simple, ripe and spicy fruit aromas and flavours with quite a hot finish. Needs time. $125 Optimus The Terraces Block 2 Blackwood Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Lean raspberry fragrances with a eucalypt-like lift and pleasant, warming, fruit driven palate. $100

Gatt Old Vine Barossa Valley Shiraz 2010 ★★★ Fully developed wine with earthy/leathery nose and sweet, furniture polish-like aged flavours. $100 Geoff Merrill Henley McLaren Vale Shiraz 2005 ★★★ A superb, aged shiraz that is super smooth and soft; earthy and savoury. $150

SHIRAZ & BLENDS $200+ 14 TASTED 14 AWARDED “What a great pleasure to judge”, enthused the

panel. A line-up of some

M. Chapoutier L’Ermite France Rouge 2014 ★★★★★ A very well made wine that has a lovely peppery/blackberry nose showing barnyardylike complexity. Some very serious oak on the palate lifts the fruit to another dimension. $600

of the best shiraz in the world. “This is where we see incredible depth of flavour and the use of serious quality oak”, said one. Wolf Blass Platinum Label Medlands Vineyard Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ Deep crimson wine with a powerful and dense fruit-driven bouquet that has lovely retained freshness. The firm, well-structured palate brims over with excellent primary fruit flavours. $200

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September/October 2017

Taylors Wines The Pioneer Clare Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ Spicy oak and raspberry fruit aromas leap out of the glass. Palate shows heaps of character and is layered with rich blackberry fruit flavours and vanillin oak. Needs more time. $200

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WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XI

WorldMags.net Wolf Blass Platinum Label Medlands Vineyard Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ Youthful fruit fragrances with hints of oak in the background adding complexity and balance. The palate has elegance and shows soft, intense flavours with a savoury oak lift. $200

Penfolds Grange South Australia Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ Dense red wine bordering on black that has a solid complexity of perfectly ripe, intense, varietal fruit that is seamlessly integrated with the nutty-like oak. Excellent tannin structure. $1,000 GOLD

GOLD

2017

CHALLENGE

L NE IN C

SHIRAZ BE

CHALLENGE

SHIRAZ T

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St Hugo Vetus Purum Shiraz 2010 ★★★★★ An intense and ripe “blackberry bomb”, of a nose which is echoed on a sweet powerful palate that is still amazingly youthful and has good acid/tannin integration and a drying finish. $240 Torbreck The Laird Shiraz 2010 ★★★★★ Youthful aromas with loads of fruit and oak and some earthy/savoury complexity. The solid palate has great depth of sweet stonefruit and oak flavours and shows a high level of alcohol. $780 Bird in Hand MAC Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2013 ★★★★1/2 An elegant bouquet with red berry fruit and some savoury oak derived spiciness. Palate is firm but not tannins and is reminiscent of a basket of fresh sweet fruits. $350

2014 Judgement Shiraz & 2015 Basket Press Shiraz (GOLD MEDAL - Best Wine in Class)

Ph: (08) 8280 7715

TCW.COM.AU 84

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Gralyn Old Vine Margaret River Shiraz 2001 ★★★★1/2 Aged Vegemite/ caramelised nose and well-aged, well maintained, palate that is still rich and flavoursome and showing some astringency. “A curio”. $350

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Pertaringa The Yeoman McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Intense primary fruit-driven nose with balancing oak and lovely fresh lift. Great delivery of raspberry-like varietal flavours and good oakiness. $250 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage France Syrah 2013 ★★★★ Quite different aromas smells of cooked meats and black pepper. Has dense, slightly oxidized, overtones to the firm flavour profile. $400

Henschke Hill Of Grace Eden Valley Shiraz 2012 ★★★★ Very developed, savoury, leathery and earthy bouquet. Palate still quite youthful looking with attractive blackberry notes and earthy complexity. $750 E. Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque France Syrah 2012 ★★★★ Attractive charry oak edges to the fruity nose. Lean austere palate dominated by charry oak. Lots more cellaring potential left. $940 Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road Shiraz 2011 ★★★1/2 Aged tarry oaky aromas with a big hit of nicely developing flavours with quite a hot alcoholic finish. At its peak now. $265

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Naturally perfect. Our motto â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;naturally perfectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; reflects our mission to make each of our wines a true expression of the time and place of which it comes. Our 2015 Clare Valley Rank & File Shiraz is no exception...

www.jeanneretwines.com

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WorldMags.net 45 TASTED 37 AWARDED

SEMILLON & BLENDS A nice little snapshot of this amazing varietal which can be a great blend with sauvignon blanc at the cheap and cheerful end, yet produces superb age worthy world class wines at the pointy end.

SEMILLON $20-$30 18 TASTED 16 AWARDED “A beautiful group of wines,” agreed the judges. The wines ranged from the young

SEMILLON BLENDS 11 TASTED 6 AWARDED A very mixed group with the better wines offering good quaffing

Brygon Reserve Wines Third Wheel WA Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★1/2 Citrussy nose with a confectionery edge. Great palate that’s big, rich and loaded with long lingering varietal flavours. $19.99

spectrum. Millbrook Winery Barking Owl Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★★ Lifted fresh aromatics of cut hay showing a rich tropical thread. Great flavour profile, good line of acid. An excellent quaffer. $18 Beelgara Estate NSW Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★1/2 More savoury in style. Obvious semillon characters on the nose and nice acid drive to the palate with good phenolics. $10.99

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to the aged showing

3 TASTED 2 AWARDED

develop beautifully.

for further development. McGuigan Bin 9000 Hunter Valley Semillon 2013 ★★★★ Delicate lime/lemon sherbet bouquet with an interesting varietal fruit palate that’s developing nicely. Has years ahead of it yet. $13

Brygon Reserve Wines Lion’s Lair WA Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ A delicate perfumed bouquet with delicate floral notes and a light vinous palate. $19.99

McGuigan Bin 9000 Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★ Light fresh aromas with lemon zest characters and a simple, fresh, savoury palate. $13

September/October 2017

variety and its ability to

here worth putting away

Berton Vineyards Head Over Heels SEA Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ Simple, fresh and crisp with a lifted varietal punch of cut grass and tropical fruit. $8

Miles From Nowhere Best Blocks Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ Nice ‘green’ nose and crisp clean flavours with slightly sour-like acidity. $32

great diversity of the

A couple of good wines

with some tending to the green pea end of the

SEMILLON $10-$20

Murray Street Vineyards White Label Barossa Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★★★ Very light green hues here showing delicate aromatics of lemon butter mingling with cut hay elements. Lovely drive and intensity of silky smooth lemon zestlike flavours. $25

Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★★★ A classic young Hunter semillon with great potential. Lovely lift of lemon zest aromas mingling with cut grass characters. The palate is crisp, elegant, flavoursome and very varietal. $25

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Pokolbin Estate Phil Swannell Hunter Valley Semillon 2014 ★★★★★ Light bright green wine with delicate honeycomb-like nose and citrussy notes. Beautifully elegant fruit intensity on the palate with excellent supporting phenolics and minerally acidity. $25 Pokolbin Estate Phil Swannell Hunter Valley Semillon 2010 ★★★★★ Another classic Hunter semillon developing toasty lovely honeyed aromas and has a delicious, beautifully ageing, toasty honeyed semillon palate that lingers on and on. $25

varietal tasting

WorldMags.net Clovely Estate South Burnett Semillon 2013 ★★★★1/2 Beautiful lemon curd-like aromas with attractive toasty development. Round, rich palate with a powerful citrus line and pleasant honeyed/toasty elements. $20 McGuigan The Shortlist Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★★ A simple, somewhat tight, citrus nose with lovely fruit intensity on the long fresh palate that has a tight line of lemony acidity. $29 McGuigan The Shortlist Hunter Kaimira Estate Valley Semillon Brightwater Nelson 2016 ★★★★ NZ Semillon A simple, well-made and 2009 ★★★★★ elegant young semillon A golden wine with a that has a chalky lemony very closed nose with just a hint of spicy/toasty bouquet and lovely lemon juice-like flavour fragrances. The long, profile. $29 soft palate has lovely intensity and complexity of fruit and toasty bottle age. $25

Mistletoe Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2015 ★★★★ A broader style with some honeyed development. Toasty citrussy aromas and flavours on a creamy textured palate. Nice acidity. $25

Pokolbin Estate Phil Swannell Hunter Valley Semillon 2015 ★★★★ A very flavoursome wine. “It’s a lemon curd tart,” declared one judge. Lovely varietal fruit, good complexity and plenty of length. $25 Pokolbin Estate Phil Swannell Hunter Valley Semillon 2013 ★★★★ The nose is light, elegant and delicate with a nicely focussed lemony palate laced with lively acidity. Plenty of years ahead of it. $25

Clovely Estate South Burnett Semillon 2014 ★★★1/2 Not a classic but a nice flavoursome/savoury style. Smells like lime cordial, tastes toasty and citrussy with sweet notes. $20

Gledhill Adelaide Hills Semillon 2012 ★★★1/2 Fresh and light with a lovely elegance of pure varietal fruit mixed with toasty complexity. It has years ahead of it yet. $20 Mistletoe Wild Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★ A typical Hunter semillon; lovely and rich with honeyed aromas and toasty flavours. $23

St Johns Brook Single Vineyard Margaret River Semillon 2016 ★★★ Punchy herbaceous/ tropical nose and a big toasty palate with loads of flavour. Drink now! $25 Esto Adelaide Hills Semillon 2016 ★★★ Very elegant style with subtle minerally lemon fragrances and long, tightly textured, palate. $29

SEMILLON $30-$40 7 TASTED 7 AWARDED Excellent world class wines here that are ageing gracefully. At this level the judges had their favourites but they all “won a prize!”.

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September/October 2017

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SEMILLON & BLENDS

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Peter Lehmann Wines Margaret Barossa Semillon 2011 ★★★★★ A beautiful classic. “Wow it’s all class,” enthused one judge. Lovely nose has a classic semillon structure with an incredibly balanced lemon/lime fruit palate. Good phenolic support. $35

Tyrrell’s HVD Hunter Valley Semillon 2011 ★★★★1/2 A brilliant green, classic Hunter semillon with lovely golden hues. Simple but elegant with great varietal fruit purity - “All class,” said one judge. Nice zippy elements. $35

Tamburlaine Hunter Valley Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★★1/2 Very floral and spicy style with a lovely fresh complexity of varietal fruit on the nose and a flavoursome, savoury, palate that has plenty of length and some nice viscosity. $33

Alkoomi Icon Range Wandoo Frankland River Semillon 2013 ★★★1/2 The nose is herbaceous and perfumed with a lovely fresh and elegant varietal fruit palate with a crunchy acid finish. $35

Tamburlaine Hunter Valley Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2013 ★★★★1/2 Attractive nose with slightly toasty/honeyed aromas and some good lemon intensity to the palate, a touch of honeyed complexity and pure acid drive. $33 Tyrrell’s Stevens Hunter Valley Semillon 2011 ★★★★1/2 Beautiful lemon barley and citrus nose with a dash of bath salts. Tight, zesty citrus palate that is lovely and fresh and clean and supported by a powerful line of acid. $35

Harman’s Estate Reserve Margaret River Semillon 2016 ★★★ Lovely cool climate style. Nice lift of green pea aromas and flavours in the herbaceous spectrum. $35

SEMILLON $40+ 6 TASTED 6 AWARDED The judges claimed this was a group of “Classic Australian styles of world class wines”, asking “How much better can you make these?” These wines are under appreciated and are according to one judge - “Truly the white Grange of Australia”.

Sage Pokolbin Semillon 2014 ★★★★ Simple lemon zest nose and a very well structured, very tight and elegant citrus palate with more of that lovely zestiness. $40

Drayton’s Family Wines Susanne Hunter Valley Semillon 2011 ★★★★★ Another classic with delicate lime/lemon fruit fragrances. Very tight, crunchy acid palate that’s loaded with flavour. Great length and intensity of citrussy fruit characters. $60

Pokolbin Estate Phil Swannell Hunter Valley Semillon 2009 ★★★★★ “Almost perfect,” according to one judge. Amazing freshness to the lemon curd-like nose. Seamlessly balanced palate that has amazing length and lovely toasty complexity. $40 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Hunter Valley Semillon 2009 ★★★★★ Bright green wine with slightly muted aromas of cut hay and lime zest. Great palate length and weight with excellent intensity of honeyed lemon flavours and a lovely toasty touch. $110

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Hunter Valley Semillon 2012 ★★★★ A pristine nose - all lemon and citrus blossom. The palate seamlessly balanced and so fresh with a nice tight acid backbone. $80

1847 Wines Grand Pappy’s Barossa Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★★1/2 Smells like honeycomb and lemon grass with hints of bee’s wax-like characters. The palate is tight and simple with fresh flavours in the sweet citrus fruit spectrum. $390

JUDGES Andrew Locke Winemaker with Rosemount Wines since 1998. Previously he was a winemaker with Orlando Wyndham and De Bortoli Wines. He has completed vintages in the US and Loire (France). In 1993 he attended the AWRI advanced assessment course. 88

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Stephen John Senior Winemaker for The Wine Group Australia and owner/winemaker of Stephen John Wines. More than 30 years’ winemaking experience. Has judged at Adelaide, National, and Barossa wine shows. Regular Winestate panellist and chairman of judges at the Winestate Wine of the Year Awards.

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Tom Shanahan Winemaker with Treasury Wine Estates (Wolf Blass). Previously worked in Adelaide Hills Cellar Door before winning Wolf Blass scholarship for a winemaking career. Has also vintaged in the Yarra Valley and Granite Belt.

WorldMags.net UNIQUE WINES from A UNIQUE PLACE

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travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN

YARRA VALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIA

SETTLE IN FOR A LONG LUNCH

TASTE IN INTIMATE SURROUNDS

TERINDAH Estate offers the perfect long lunch venue on the Bellarine Peninsula outside Geelong. From a welcoming tasting room and snack restaurant to a lovely setting overlooking vines, gardens and bay views to excellent service and top-notch food, Terindah Estate hits a home run. Established in 2003 by retired quantity surveyor Peter Slattery, Terindah produces an impressive range of wines (although zinfandel is a bit of a stretch in the cool climes). Terindah is a magnet for locals and tourists alike; offering al a carte lunches Thursday-Sunday, occasional dinners, weekend breakfasts, cooking classes, weddings and conferences. The Shed at Terindah (the name means “most beautiful” in Behasa Indonesia) is more formal than the more relaxed Deck (open seven days for lunch and snacks) and both showcase the skills of chef Lyndon Betts and his team. The service, too, is both slick and friendly - not always an easy combination to achieve. Try entrees like pork brawn terrine with mustard and stout and wattle seed bread, or perhaps sardines with creme fraiche, lemon and pickled shallots. Mains include duck with heirloom carrots and radicchio, local snapper with potato and Warragul spinach, and pork scotch with nectarine witlof and garlic. Make sure to order some goose fat potatoes as a side dish. They are outrageously decadent. The Shed gets all the key elements right and is highly recommended. Terindah Estate, 90 McAdams Lane, Bellarine; phone (03) 5251 5536 or visit www.terindahestate.com.

VETERAN winemaker Rob Dolan has opened a new cellar door at South Wa r r a n d y t e , j u s t 3 0 m i n u t e s f ro m Melbourne’s CBD and at the very start of the Yarra Valley. The intimate tasting space has been incorporated into the property’s original farmhouse, which is set on over 60ha of farmland and vineyards. Dolan says knowledgeable cellar door staff guide visitors through a comprehensive tasting of wines, which can be purchased to take away, or enjoyed on the deck or in the gardens over a game of bocce. A selection of local produce, including Stone and Crow Cheese is available seven days a week, while visitors can craft their own platters with accompaniments such as Mount Zero Olives, Crackers by The Farm Yarra Valley and an in-house range of Rob Dolan pickles, pastes, relishes and jellies. Tea, coffees and non-alcoholic drinks are also on offer. “It’s all about real wine, real people and real character,” Dolan says. The cellar door was designed by Dale White and Bek Gallagher, whose portfolio includes The Public Brewery, The Cellar Door by The Public Brewery and The Farm Yarra Valley. It stars restored original features, reclaimed timbers and a huge wrap-around recycled timber deck positioned on lush green grass, overlooking a gorgeous water feature and is open 10am-5pm seven days a week. Rob Dolan Wines, 21-23 Delaneys Rd, Warrandyte South; phone (03) 9876 5885 or visit www.robdolanwines.com.au.

which is due to open any day, as culinary director. Point Leo will include a 150-seat restaurant, a winery, cellar, wine store, art gallery and a sculpture walk to explore artworks by prominent Australian artists.

BACK TO THE FUTURE GIANT Steps and Innocent Bystander, the cellar door that was arguably the biggest draw card in the Yarra Valley, has split into two, with Innocent Bystander now owned by Brown Brothers and going casual on the old White Rabbit Brewery site next door, while Giant Steps has gone back to the future with the return of original chef Jarrod Hudson. Hudson has upped the tempo here, from charcuterie to char grills, while partner Suzanne Tyzack is the wine guru. Small plates here include marinated green Sicilian and Mt Zero black kalamata olives and duck spring roll with garlic chives and sweet soy. There’s a monster selection of salumi and hams, along with bigger plates like wok-fried pork belly with flat rice noodles, garlic shoots, snow pea leaf, peanuts, black vinegar and chilli oil, and harissa wood-grilled free-range chicken with bullhorn peppers, baby capers and parsley. The spanner crab and avocado salad has also been favourably reviewed and there are recommended wine matches for all the main courses. Giant Steps restaurant is open 11am-late, Monday-Friday and 9amlate, Saturday and Sunday (breakfast from 9am-11am). Giant Steps, 336 Maroondah Highway, Healesville; phone (03) 5962 6111 or visit www.giantstepswine.com.au.

WOOD ON THE MOVE FORMER Rockpool and Eleven Bridge chef Phil Wood is moving from Sydney to head the kitchen brigade at the flashy new Point Leo Estate on the Mornington Peninsula. Wood, Neil Perry’s long-time go-to chef, will join the Gandel family’s $50 million sculpture park, vineyard and dining destination venue, 90

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RISING STAR

QUIRKY ESCAPE THE Mornington Peninsula is one of Australia’s most vibrant wine regions; always innovative, constantly changing. The newest regional attraction is Jackalope, a hotel, wining and dining complex that is part of the revamped Willow Creek winery operation. The quirky Jackalope has direct access to the winery and features magnificent vineyard views. Jackalope, named after a mythical creature, is the personal project of 29-yearold Chinese-born entrepreneur Louis Li, who sees the design as his own creative story; a mixture of art and storytelling featuring stand-alone artworks and a dark, moody vibe. Li describes Jackalope as “an escape from reality”. Jackalope’s 46 rooms and suites offer either vineyard or terrace views and range from 38-85 square metres. Floorto-ceiling windows and private terraces connect guests to the rural surrounds while inside bathroom features include deepsoak, black Japanese tubs, rain showers and double vanities. There is an on-site 1200-bottle, glass cellar that showcases an international selection of limited-release wines produced from vineyards of 11ha or less - the size of the hotel’s vineyard. The hotel’s funky bar, Flaggerdoot, specialises in cocktails and is dotted with art installations, while outside, a black 30m infinity pool laps up to the surrounding vineyard, while a poolside pavilion offers sun lounge service and is also available for massage

treatments or private dining.The Doot Doot Doot restaurant is a fine diner, offering four or eight-course degustations, while Rare Hare is a casual eatery with wine bar and tasting facility. A 7m tall namesake Jackalope, sculpted by Melbourne artist Emily Floyd, has taken tenancy at the entrance to the hotel. It just doesn’t get any hipper. Jackalope, 166 Balnarring Rd, Merricks North; phone (03) 5931 2500 or visit www. jackalopehotels.com.

CHANGING TIMES IT’S all change at the Mercure Geelong, which is now known as Rydges Geelong. The popular city hotel is in the heart of Geelong’s CBD, close to quality restaurants and major attractions such as Kardinia Park and the waterfront. The hotel is just a short drive from the iconic Great Ocean Rd, a “must see” for first-time travellers to the Geelong and Bellarine Peninsula.The hotel is designed for both leisure and business traveller, offering 24-hour reception, an outdoor swimming pool and spa, gymnasium and off-street car parking, while all rooms are also equipped with the latest iPod docks and large screen TVs. Guests at Rydges Geelong can also look forward to free wifi for all guests and a new-look mini bar. You’ll find it on the corner of Gheringhap and Myers streets, Geelong; phone (03) 5223 6200 or visit www. rydges.com/accommodation/melbournevic/geelong.

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POLPERRO by Even Keel is a rising star on the Mornington Peninsula. Not only is winemaker Sam Coverdale making some outstanding wines, there is also an excellent on-site bistro, luxury self-contained accommodation and a cosy cellar door. Polperro is a premium label using estate vines and specialising in pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris, while Even Keel sources fruit from several different regions. Staffed by bright young things, the bistro overlooks vines and bushland and is a great choice for a lazy lunch. Choose from snacks like crispy tortilla, kingfish sashimi, burnt tomato and wasabi cream, or Asian corn fritters with cos and nam jim dressing, or perhaps starters like seared scallops, cauliflower, roasted hazelnut, ginger oil and jus. Main choices may include snapper fillet with celeriac puree and sauteed spinach and semolina gnocchi with cheddar custard, sprouts and shiitake mushrooms. There are also dishes to share, like duck cassoulet, alongside a range of enticing desserts. You’ll also find a selection of aperitifs and liqueurs - and there are luxurious villas for those who want to make a night of it. Polperro by Even Keel,150 Red Hill Rd, Red Hill; visit www. polperrowines.com.au.

Opposite page: Left: Exterior of Terindah Estate. Right: Interior of Giant Steps Wine. Top: Eleven Bridge chef Phil Wood. Top: Scenes from Jackalope Hotels. Above: Polperro vineyards and clouds.

September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

83 TASTED 63 AWARDED

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YA R R A V A L L E Y & S O U T H E R N V I C TO R I A Always an exciting judging and depending on the seasons, we see CHARDONNAY 22 TASTED some of the best chardonnays, cabernets and pinot noirs available 19 AWARDED in Australia. Prosecco is generally regarded as an early drinking style of bubbly, there are two good examples. “Great result with some of the best chardonnays in Australia”, enthused the judges. “As a class these are on the lean side”, noted one judge.

PROSECCO

OTHER DRY WHITES

2 TASTED 2 AWARDED

6 TASTED 4 AWARDED

T’Gallant Bright & Zesty Mornington Peninsula Prosecco NV ★★★★ Grapey fruit nose with some nice florals. A generous dry savoury palate tasting of cut pears and apple blossoms. Simple and fresh. $20 Yarra Burn YB Yarra Valley Prosecco NV ★★★ Musky perfumed aromas and easy generous sweeter style of palate with a savoury end. $9

The judges found this an interesting group with the riesling and arneis

Bittern Estate Mornington Peninsula Arneis 2013 ★★★★ Attractive honeysuckle aromas with citrussy notes. A pleasant minerality drives the length of the flavoursome palate. Great food wine. $20

being standouts. Allinda Hand Crafted Limited Release Yarra Valley Riesling 2016 ★★★★1/2 A clean bright nose showing great lime and lemon-like varietal definition. Excellent varietal fruit purity on the crisp dry palate with a well focussed finish. 3-5 $27

Oakdene Jessica Bellarine Geelong Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★1/2 Hints of oak on the nose and some sweet fruit notes. Lovely flavours on the vibrant palate. Interesting use of oak! $28

“Ripe fruit is the starting point; you can’t just put fruit in a barrel and expect a great chardonnay!” Seville Estate The Barber Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ Well focussed with flinty stonefruit fragrances laced with spicy oak. Opulent palate has tightly wound structure, excellent fruit flavour profile and a lovely long lingering finish. 3-5 $24

Rob Dolan Yarra Valley Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★1/2 Salmon pink hues, floral fruit fragrances that open up in the glass and a savoury palate with lively acidity and subtle spiciness. $30

Seville Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ Nose expresses aromas of baked apples with some evidence of oak. Creamy in the mouth with subtle stone fruit flavours, good use of oak and long savoury finish. Delicious! 3-5 $36 Seville Estate Reserve Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ Bright stonefruit nose well framed by the spicy oak. Amazing length and intensity of varietal fruit flavours with a beautiful line of acidity, some warmth and a long finish. 3-5 $70

JUDGES Sarah Andrew Owner Selador Wines. Certified Sommelier; WSET Certified Educator. Judged at the Eltham/Daylesford wine show and Heathcote and Cool Climate Wine Show. Formerly on premise work and retail in the UK.

W I N E S TAT E

September/October 2017

Victor Nash Chief Winemaker at Fowles. 15 years winemaking experience. A finalist in the Young Australian Winemaker of Year competition. Director of the Victorian wines show.

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Mark Nikolich Senior winemaker at Rob Dolan Wines for the past four years. Formerly at Sticks Wines, DeBortoli Wines and Tokar Estate. Has also vintaged in Beaujolais, France.

regional tasting

WorldMags.net Handpicked Highbow Hill Vineyard Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★1/2 A young elegant wine that smells of grilled nuts, spices and stonefruits. It has light fruit flavour intensity, crisp acid that cleans up the rich palate and good oak balance. 3-5 $59.99

Oakdene Liz’s Bellarine Geelong Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★★ Bright and golden in the glass with intense complexity of spicy oak and stonefruits. Big and warm in the mouth with plenty of ripe fruit matched by spicy oak. A hint of tannin. 3-5 $35

Rob Dolan Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★1/2 A leaner style with an intriguing nose; a complexity of baked fruits and melons. Nicely textured palate with moderate length of stonefruit and oak flavours. 3-5 $30

Handpicked Collection Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★ A youthful, well made chardonnay. Attractive spicy/almond fragrances, citrus flavours, mouthwatering acidity and good use of oak. 3-5 $44.99 Boat O’Craigo Black Spur Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ The subtle nose shows aromas of melons, peaches and green apples. Tight palate with minerally/orange rind flavours and racy acidity. 3-5 $28 Handpicked Regional Selection 39 Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015 ★★★1/2 Citrus aromas with subtle oak and more of a lightweight dry white style of palate with a lovely acid backbone. $24.99

Scotchmans Hill Bellarine Peninsula Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★★ Apples, stonefruits and melons on the nose layered with spicy oak. The lovely complex palate has excellent balance between the varietal fruit and good oak and wrapped in acid. 5+ $35

Yarravale Reserve Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★1/2 “Wow! Heaps going on here”, enthused one judge. Gorgeous complex varietal aromas with herbaceous hints and a totally mouthwatering palate with intense racy fruits. $34

Allinda Hand Crafted Limited Release Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Elegant bouquet with punchy apple aromas and subtle floral lift similar characters on the lip smacking palate. 3-5 $32

Delatite Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 A leesy, full-bodied, riper style with a very floral nose and quite a tart apple/peach palate. Good oak integration. $29 Kings of Kangaroo Ground The Hilda May Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015 ★★★1/2 Citrus and stonefruit bouquet with nice nuttiness and a palate that shows beautiful harmony between fruit and oak. $28

ROSÉ 1 TASTED 1 AWARDED

Handpicked Regional Selection Yarra Valley Rosé 2016 ★★★ Great lifted sweet lychee/guava nose with more sweet lychees on the palate. Crowd pleaser! $28.99

DOLCETTO 1 TASTED 1 AWARDED

Coldstream Hills The Hills Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Nose of green apples and pears with floral notes. Zesty tightly wound lemon curd-like palate with minerally acidity. $25

Bittern Estate Mornington Peninsula Dolcetto 2015 ★★★ Oaky nose with cherries beneath. Upfront tannins frame the palate and lead to lovely savoury flavours. $20

Rob Dolan True Colours Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ A simple lighter style but well made with subtle stonefruit showing citrus touches. $24

3 TASTED 3 AWARDED

Bittern Estate Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ Lifted guava-like aromas and nice bracing acidity on the creamy stonefruit palate. $25 Handpicked Collection Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ Young, lean and green with tight stonefruit characters and clean, crisp acidity. $44.99

Oakdene Bellarine Geelong Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Aromas of apple, pears and melons with a spicy lift. Warm palate driven by primary fruit characters. Well made. 3-5 $24

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September/October 2017

MERLOT

Yarravale Reserve Yarra Valley Merlot 2010 ★★★1/2 Interesting wine with great varietal definition and showing leathery/ earthy maturity with soft tannins. Drink soon! $36 Handpicked Regional Selection 65 Yarra Valley Merlot 2016 ★★★ Varietal nose of blue berries and herbs with a slightly lean minty/herbal palate. $24.99 Seville Hill Yarra Valley Merlot 2012 ★★★ A meaty stewed fruit nose and a leaner, firm style of palate with plush dark fruits and silky tannins. $30

W I N E S TAT E

YA R R A V A L L E Y & S O U T H E R N V I C TO R I A

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SHIRAZ/SYRAH 10 TASTED 7 AWARDED

Allinda Hand Crafted Limited Release Yarra Valley Cabernets 2014 ★★★★1/2 Developing savoury nose of dark fruits, vanillin oak and leathery notes. Palate holding together very nicely with some attractive secondary characters. Big tannins long finish. $45

CABERNET & BLENDS 13 TASTED 11 AWARDED

A mixture of excellent wines and others that

Great class with ‘ripe’

had “fruit issues”, mainly

tannins and varietal

involving green fruit.

definition. “There needs

Best here had ripe fruit

to be a mention of Yarra

and varietal definition

cabernets”, said one

with appropriate

judge. “These are some

winemaking,

of the best in Australia”.

Allinda Hand Crafted Limited Release Yarra Valley Syrah 2016 ★★★★1/2 Smells of plums and sweet Christmas spices with smoky oak characters. Very more-ish palate with opulent spicy blue fruit flavours. Nicely focussed finished. Needs time 5+ $45

Oakdene Bellarine Peninsula Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ Dark bramble bouquet with a suggestion of oak. Soft and rich in the mouth; lots of oak and acid but has sweet fruit in there too. 3-5 $24

Hirsch Hill Estate Yarra Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Ruby coloured, medium bodied, wine with bright berry bouquet laced with spicy oak. Slightly austere, dry and savoury palate that is still very young and very fresh. $20

Seville Estate Yarra Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Some spicy peppery savoury characters to the nose and a brooding palate with an attractive fruit profile. “Drink up!” $36 Seville Hill Reserve Yarra Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★1/2 Aromas of smoky plums with a dash of white pepper and a ripe palate with tarry characters. Needs food. $40 Yarravale Reserve Yarra Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★ Engaging blue fruit and red cherry aromas. Soft, simple and appealing shiraz palate. 3-5 $36

W I N E S TAT E

Rob Dolan Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★★ An intense definition of dark chocolate and capsicum-like aromas with leathery touches. A classic peppery blue fruit varietal palate with soft tannins and lovely acid/tannin ratio. “Yum!” 3-5 $35

Scotchmans Hill Bellarine Peninsula Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Some suggestion of bottle age to the spicy dark berry nose with rich mouthfilling flavours and the alcohol warming the back palate. Soft tannins. Drinking well now. $35

September/October 2017

Rob Dolan True Colours Yarra Valley Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2015 ★★★★ A lovely blend showing a lovely bright fruit profile with herbal characters and plenty of weight and texture. Lifted nose and fleshy palate. 3-5 $24 Boat O’Craigo Braveheart Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★★ The savoury nose is mature and earthy and is showing nice bottle development. Very lean and dry palate with savoury varietal flavours. 3-5 $30

Hirsch Hill Estate Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★★ Tarry licorice nose; loads of brambly/blackcurrant fruit characters and subtle oak. Excellent varietal fruit definition on the tight lean palate. Well integrated tannins and high level of acid. 5+ $20

Seville Estate Old Vine Reserve Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★★ A complex and brooding style with lifted earthy/ leathery blue fruit varietal aromas. Lovely palate; engaging from beginning to end with varietal purity and a finish that goes on and on. 5+ $70

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Yarravale Reserve Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ★★★★ Savoury aromas with slight leathery maturity. A blackcurrant palate that’s still very lively for a 4-year-old. Some obvious oak. $36

regional tasting

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Seville Hill Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ★★★1/2 Nose of true varietal fruit and oak aromas and a palate that’s still youthful with firm fruit and tannins a feature. 3-5 $30

Harrison & Murray Vineyards Bromley Geelong Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Nose needs air to open up and show its dark plum, berry and sweet oak fragrances. Lovely mouthfeel to the palate with nice varietal flavours, integrated tannins and good acidity. 5+ $32

Seville Hill Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ★★★ A dry savoury cabernet with a nicely integrated bouquet. Slightly green flavours and warming alcohol. $60 Handpicked Highbow Hill Vineyard Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★ Smells of grilled meats and dried herbs with nicely ageing, typical Yarra cabernet palate. $159.99 Allinda Hand Crafted Limited Release Yarra Valley Cabernets 2015 ★★★ Smoky meaty fragrances and some nice red berry fruit flavours with tannins creating a very dry finish. $45

Rob Dolan Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ An elegant wine with a clear bright nose showing nice intensity of cherry and red plum aromas and sweet spices. The palate is fresh and lively and full of raspberry fruit flavours. 3-5 $35

Rob Dolan True Colours Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Gamey aromas with earthy leathery notes and a brooding, young and well structured palate with the tannins well matched by the sour cherry fruit weight. 5+ $24

PINOT NOIR 25 TASTED 15 AWARDED A mixed bag with many excellent wines and also lesser ones showing either winemaking faults or oak issues such as too old and stale or too much. “The 2016s were very approachable drink now styles; the 2015s were holding up well and could use more time”.

Scotchmans Hill Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ A very appealing, slightly overripe, commercial style of pinot. Smells meaty and leafy with some cedary oak evident and has a lovely mouthfilling array of flavours with good acid spine. 5+ $35

Seville Estate Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ A delightfully savoury, bright ruby red wine that’s very young but has complexity and shows hints of bramble fruit with attractive meaty/savoury notes and well integrated tannins. $36

Boat O’Craigo Black Spur Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Pretty strawberry fruit nose lifted with floral elements and some spiciness. Sweet and savoury fruit characters roll across the palate with its defined tannins and long finish. 5+ $30

Seville Estate Old Vine Reserve Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Raspberry and violets lift off the nose with nice cedary oak complexity. Tightly wound palate has lovely savoury fruit, good acidity and well focussed tannins. Needs time. 5+ $70

Harrison & Murray Vineyards Bromley Geelong Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★ A big, complex style; needs more time to settle. Dark cherry aromas with subtle oak and a fresh lively palate bright with fruit and acid. 3-5 $32 Oakdene Peta’s Single Vineyard Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 A simple appealing commercial style with nice core of dark berry fruits with slight charry oak and spicy sweetness. $43 Handpicked Capella Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 Aromas in the cherry fruit spectrum with some earthiness. Silky smooth in the mouth and tasting of dark cherries. $79.99 Handpicked Collection Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Darker fruit bouquet with some old oak characters. Simple drying tannic palate. Subtle flavours. $59.99

Kings of Kangaroo Ground Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★1/2 A very pretty, perfumed and feminine style with its subtle sweet fruit fragrances and medicinal notes. Some astringency to the complex palate. Slight metallic finish. $25 Seville Hill Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★★ A pleasant varietal nose of sour cherries and spices with a complex and grippy genuine varietal palate that has a warming finish. $30

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September/October 2017

Shoofly Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Smells of fresh strawberries and spicy oak and has mouthfilling violet and berry flavours. $15 Oakdene Bellarine Geelong Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Brooding aromas with nicely handled varietal fruit on an elegant palate with good oak balance. 3-5 $24

W I N E S TAT E

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travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN

RIVER REGIONS - SA, VIC & NSW

BOUTIQUE BEAUTY

ALBURY IN THE SPOTLIGHT

THE HOUSTON, a newcomer offering

MANTRA Group, one of the fastest growing

bespoke, self-contained hotel apartments in

hotel groups in Australia, expects to have

the centre of Wagga Wagga, is a pleasant

its new Mantra Albury Hotel open early in

spot to break a journey between Sydney and

2018. The full-service hotel will offer 158

Melbourne. The Houston is a luxury 10-suite

guest rooms, a restaurant and bar, executive

boutique hotel in a peaceful setting, but also

lounge, gymnasium, large conference

just a five- minute stroll from the cafes and

and meetings facilities, and basement

restaurants of the hub of the Riverina. Wagga

car parking in the heart of Albury’s CBD.

Wagga is on the banks of the Murrumbidgee

Mantra Group CEO Bob East said the

River and is the largest regional city in

group was thrilled to bring the international

NSW. Crafted inside historic Belmore

Mantra brand to the Riverina. “Strategically

House, which dates to 1868, the neo-

located at the midpoint between Sydney and

gothic style building was once described

Melbourne on the Hume Highway, Albury is

as “one of the most elegant structures

a key regional commercial and tourism hub

in the colony out of Sydney” it has been

with established and varied accommodation

converted into a luxurious self-contained

drivers, well supported by a large regional

apartment hotel. The Houston offers guests

airport and an impressive major events

complimentary continental breakfast, free

calendar which attracts significant visitation

wifi and complimentary minibar snacks.

to the city,” East said. “We’re confident

There is a relaxing garden in which guests

the property will provide a market-leading

can enjoy a glass of wine and there are eight

hotel offering, well positioned to become

different styles of accommodation to choose

the region’s premier corporate, meetings

from, ranging from the mini suite to the plush

and leisure hotel. Albury Mayor Henk

Houston suite. Prices start from $165 for the

van de Ven said Albury was thrilled to

mini suite with king bed complemented with

be welcoming a Mantra hotel. Located

king pillows and en suite, although no bath,

550km from Sydney, 340km from Canberra

just a free-standing shower. The slightly

and 330km from Melbourne, Albury is an

decadent Houston suite features a master

established transit point for travellers and a

bedroom, separate lounge, kitchen facilities,

busy commercial centre for the surrounding

separate bath and shower and Nespresso

border region, with a vibrant economy

machine for $345. The Houston, 44 Kincaid

driven by a range of commercial, military,

St, Wagga Wagga; phone (02) 5905 1321 or

government, agriculture, healthcare and

visit www.thehoustonwagga.com.au.

education institutions. Mantra Group is

the leading Australian-based hotel and resort operator with close to 130 properties with more than 20,000 rooms. See www. mantragroup.com.au.

HISTORY ON SHOW THERE is a fascinating history behind Chateau Mildura at Irymple in Victoria’s Murray Darling region. The property, just outside Mildura, was established in 1888 when the Chaffey family planted 61ha of wine grapes, which produced first fruit for table wines and then later fortified wines and brandies. By 1910, renewed demand led to the establishment of Mildura Winery Pty Ltd, of which Chateau Mildura was a part. The new company built a second and larger distillery at Merbein and the two companies worked closely together. Brandy making with pot stills became a major operation of the company in the late 1930s with major exports. Chateau Mildura merged or was taken over by several large companies in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. The Fosters Group’s sale of Chateau Mildura saw it return to local ownership and it is now home to Psyche Wines. Many of Chateau Mildura’s historic features are preserved in its museum collection and visitors can enjoy self-guided or group tours of the museum and winery. The wine range features several alternative varieties. Chateau Mildura is open daily from 10am-4pm and is at 191 Belar Ave, Irymple; phone (03) 5024 5901 or visit www.chateuamildura.com.au.

W I N E S TAT E

September/October 2017

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DE BORTOLI CLEANS UP ANYONE popping into the De Bortoli winery and cellar door in Bilbul, outside Griffith, should be aware the company has been awarded the first Sustainability Advantage Platinum Project in New South Wales. NSW Environment Minister Gabrielle Upton presented the award to the family winery in recognition of efforts in environmental leadership and innovation through “the De Bortoli Method”. The system recovers potassium from the winery’s waste water to produce a sodium-free cleaning solution. This decreases the build up of potassium in the soil and reduces the use of caustic chemicals. The method is an example to other businesses using imported

established as the first community owned

opening of Quest Griffith has been warmly

hotel in the British Empire in 1897. Today, the

welcomed and embraced by the community

hotel is still owned and operated by the local

and businesses alike. We look forward to

community with its profits being returned

continue supporting the growth and future

to the community by way of donations and

of this thriving regional town.” Quest Chief

sponsorships. Upgraded several times, the

Financial Officer Jason Vanderzalm said

now Renmark Hotel Motel offers conference

Griffith had great potential. “The region’s wine

facilities, the Nanya Bistro eatery, sports

industry is booming, exporting over $800m of

bar, gaming room, bars and bottle shop,

wine per year, travel to the area is also rapidly

as well as 67 rooms in both hotel and motel

increasing, with a strong focus on business

styles. There is also an on-site swimming

travel,” he said. “We are so excited to be

pool. The Renmark Hotel Motel, Murray Ave,

providing the highest standard of short-stay

Renmark, phone (08) 8586 6755 or visit www.

accommodation to business travellers within

renmarkhotel.com.au.

Griffith.” The property features 68 apartments - a mix of studio, one- and two-bedroom

REGIONAL GROWTH DRIVES QUEST DEVELOPMENT

caustics of alternative approaches that

GRIFFITH has marked the official opening

can deliver significant savings and lower

of its newest high-rise accommodation with

greenhouse gas emissions. Alice Cahill,

the launching of the Quest Apartment Hotel

manager of strategic delivery for the

Griffith earlier this year. “The economic growth

Sustainable Programs Branch, said the

experienced in Griffith has been strong, and

Office of Environment and Heritage was

Quest Griffith is well positioned to capitalise

proud to partner with De Bortoli Wines in

on exciting developments occurring within the

this initiative.“De Bortoli Wines is rightly

region,” said franchisee Josh Nadzielski. “The

layouts, as apartments, as well as on-site parking, a conference room and gymnasium. There is no on-site restaurant but several leading Griffith restaurants offer charge-back facilities. Quest Apartment Hotel Griffith, 53 Railway St, Griffith; phone (02) 6969 2000. Top left: De Bortoli vineyards in Bilbul. Top right: Exterior of Quest appartments, Griffith. Below: Exterior of Renmark Hotel. Opposite page top right: Exterior of Chateau Mildara. Bottom left: Exterior of The Houston, Wagga Wagga.

acknowledged as a world leader for its demonstrated commitment to sustainable production and consumption,” she says. “We applaud De Bortoli Wines’ pursuit of zero waste and zero harm, and their willingness to share this knowledge with the NSW business community.”

STORIES TO TELL ESTABLISHED in 1897, the Renmark Hotel, still operates as a community hotel and has many a story to tell - from famous guests to colourful accounts of Harry “Breaker” Morant riding his horse into the bar. Nestled on the banks of the River Murray, the property was

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September/October 2017

W I N E S TAT E

126 TASTED 59 AWARDED

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RIVER REGIONS We often say that in this judging you will see Australia’s best buys across a range of different styles and varietals. However, don’t diminish the excellent quality that is coming from the regions with warm climate Mediterranean varieties like tempranillo, durif and montepulciano.

SPARKLING 5 TASTED 3 AWARDED A few drinkable wines showing vibrancy and

Zilzie Wines Estate Australia Prosecco NV ★★★ An attractive more complex style. Perfumed fragrances, textural palate length. Refreshing acidity. $14

freshness at a great Trentham Estate The Family Murray Darling Prosecco NV ★★★ An austere wine; some toastiness on the nose and palate with attractive sweet pear flavours. $15

price!

Bassham Riverland Fiano 2016 ★★★ Good tropical melon fruit on the nose with pleasant green melon flavours. Good food wine. $20 Whistling Kite Vineyards Biodynamic Riverland Viognier 2016 ★★★ A nicely layered wine with reserved tropical notes and subtle toastiness. Warming finish. $25

OTHER WHITE SAUVIGNON VARIETALS & BLANC 4 TASTED BLENDS 7 TASTED 3 AWARDED

W I N E S TAT E

A pleasant surprise!

Some pleasant

Good commercial

examples with the

varietal characters and

viogniers quite aromatic

not too sweet.

and showing good

Fresh & Zesty Australia Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ Attractive grassy, citrus aromas. Crisp clean palate with good varietal fruit expression. $5

varietal characters. South Point Estate Riverina Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV ★★★ Toasty honeyed citrus aromas and some toasty development on the citrussy palate. $5.99

3 AWARDED

Zilzie Wines Regional Collection Murray Darling Viognier 2016 ★★★★ A lifted bouquet with marmalade and spice characters evident. Slight oiliness to the palate with flavours of sweet peaches. $18

September/October 2017

Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ A sweeter commercial style but nicely balanced by acid with good varietal fruit intensity. $9.99

McGuigan Black Label Pinot Grigio 2016 ★★★ Toasty citrus bouquet; lifted medicinal notes. Soft and round in the mouth with sweet fruit flavours. $10

Whispers South Eastern Australia Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ★★★ Earthy aromas with fresh cut straw notes. Developing tropical fruit flavours. Drink now! $4

St Anne’s Perricoota Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★ A lighter style. Touch of toast on the fragrant citrus nose. Some intensity of pear and citrus flavours. $16.50

PINOT GRIS/ GRIGIO 13 TASTED 8 AWARDED “A pleasing class”, said one judge. “Good textural and yet elegant fruit shone here; a variety for the warmer regions.” Whispers South Eastern Australia Pinot Grigio 2016 ★★★1/2 Very floral feminine style with a jasmine-like nose and refreshing citrus/ pear flavour intensity with tight acidity. $4 Rock Paper Scissors Australia Pinot Grigio 2014 ★★★1/2 Pleasant mature style with a perfumed, floral, whipped cream nose and an elegant fruit palate. Everything in balance. $9 BEST

La La Land VALUE BUYS Victoria Pinot Grigio 2016 ★★★ Well-made wine, a touch sweet with ripe tropical characters, toasty softness and attractive phenolics. $18.99

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La La Land Victoria Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★ Subdued aromas. Light florals on a long delicate palate; flavours in the citrus/apple spectrum. $18.99 Hidden Gem Australia Pinot Grigio 2015 ★★★ Lifted confectionery sweet aromas and nice length and warmth of poached pear flavours. $4 Sigismondi Estate Southern Secret Riverland Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★ “Smells of crushed green olives and summer grasses”. Good palate length, balance and richness. $20

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CHARDONNAY & BLENDS 19 TASTED 10 AWARDED A mixed bag. “The best had good fruit expression with oak balance”, noted one judge. “Whilst there were only a few that were faulty some wines showed excess oak or excess sugar.”

Whispers South Eastern Australia Chardonnay 2015 ★★★1/2 An older buttery/ toasty chardonnay. Generous perfumed fruit aromas and austere but attractive palate. Appealing! $4

Andrew Peace Wines Estate Swan Hill Victoria Chardonnay 2015 ★★★1/2 An attractive, flavoursome wine - good for its age with ripe developing floral/citrus/ melon-like characters. $18

St Anne’s Perricoota Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ Generous fruit aromas and a rich creamy palate with sweet/toasty oak and good acidity. $16

OTHER RED VARIETALS & BLENDS

919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Touriga Nacional 2016 ★★★★1/2 A classy, elegant and well-constructed wine that has dark inky fruit fragrances. Palate offers a big mouthful of prune-like flavours. Will benefit from cellaring. 3-5 $42

La La Land Victoria Tempranillo 2016 ★★★ A young, lighter, fruity style with peppery berry aromas and dark berry/sweet oak palate. $18.99

17 TASTED 10 AWARDED A very interesting class of alternative varieties. “Many of these Spanish or Southern Italian

Hidden Gem Australia Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Has aromas like squeezed lemons with tropical notes and a light, tight and very refreshing palate. $4

Trentham Estate Estate Murray Darling Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ A long, complex traditional style with light toasty/nutty/ citrus aromas and toasty charry oak palate with citrus flavours underneath. $16

exceptionally well in our hotter inland areas”, commented one of the judges.

Scotts Creek Retreat Riverland Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 An elegant style with the nose showing light oak over the similarly handled varietal fruit and a lovely long soft palate. $18

Whistling Kite Vineyards Biodynamic Riverland Montepulciano 2015 ★★★★1/2 Savoury meaty aromas and a palate that’s all about the dark berry fruit flavours with more of the meatiness evident. The tannins frame the fruit beautifully. $38

Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Perfumed florals on the nose with complementing oak. A rich palate with good stonefruit intensity. $9.99 McGuigan Black Label Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ A sweeter commercial style with good integration of toasty oak and creamy citrus fruit. $10 Full Flavoured Australia Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ A balanced, well made wine at the greener end of the spectrum. Long and creamy in the mouth. $5

Bassham Saparavi Riverland Saperavi 2015 ★★★ Interesting roasted beetroot/meaty nose. Dark berry flavours and silky tannins. Good food wine. $25

varieties perform

Jamiesons Run The Grazier South Eastern Australia Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Hints of citrus blossoms on the nose and some sweeter tropical characters on a crisp palate. $7

Berton Vineyards Metal Label Riverina Durif 2016 ★★★★1/2 Typically huge jammy fruit nose with masses of mouthfilling juicy plum/prune flavours, but it’s not over-the-top. Has good level of very fine drying tannins. 5+ $12 Bassham Riverland Graciano 2016 ★★★★1/2 Deep red wine with lovely purple edge. Has lifted blackberry aromas and great blackberry/mulberry flavour definition on a soft mouthfilling palate. Drink now. $25

Andrew Peace Wines Australia Felix Swan Hill Victoria Sagrantino 2014 ★★★1/2 A full, rich and chocolaty wine that’s ageing beautifully with good depth, intensity and persistence of the fruit. $45

919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Tempranillo 2015 ★★★★1/2 Full bodied oak-driven style with perfumed black cherry fragrances. Firm and fleshy in the mouth with lovely berry fruit intensity and good oak in a supporting role. $42 919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Durif 2014 ★★★★1/2 A huge concentration of chocolate and red plum aromas with spicy perfumed earthy notes. Big, bright and very long palate loaded with vibrant fruit and ripe tannins. 5+ $45

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September/October 2017

919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Touriga Nacional 2015 ★★★ Elegant minty/forest fruit nose and a classy palate with sweet/sour fruit flavours that don’t stop! $42

MERLOT 4 TASTED 1 AWARDED Just one good commercial example of merlot here. St Anne’s Perricoota Merlot 2015 ★★★ A big wine with lots of tannins. Still youthful. Smells of raspberry jam - tastes of leafy plums. $19

PETIT VERDOT & BLENDS 4 TASTED 2 AWARDED A couple of good versions of the variety showing good floral “fine spice” characters.

W I N E S TAT E

RIVER REGIONS

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Kingston Estate Wines Estate Riverland Petit Verdot 2015 ★★★1/2 A floral lift to the peppery red fruit nose. Good dark berry fruit concentration on the palate with nice dusty tannins. $18.99 Kingston Estate Wines The Ink Shed Riverland Petit Verdot Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Fresh and youthful with bright red fruit showing a floral-like lift and some mintiness. $18

CABERNET & BLENDS 15 TASTED 4 AWARDED Disappointing! “Cabernet fails to show its best in warm regions”, said one judge.

Andrew Peace Wines Unexpected Swan Hill Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★1/2 Lovely lift of red fruit, mint and capsicum aromas. Austere but vibrant, well made palate. Good commercial wine. $20 Andrew Peace Wines Masterpeace Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2016 ★★★ Minty red fruit nose; good dark berry flavours. Elegant palate with mouthcoating tannins. 3-5 $13 Andrew Peace Wines Masterpeace Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★ Juicy, fruit-driven style still showing attractive lifted varietal fruit. Good tannin structure. 3-5 $13

“A few solid examples got through, supported by low cropping fruit and balancing oak.”

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 24 TASTED 8 AWARDED

Zilzie Wines Estate Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★1/2 Some lifted red fruit on the nose; dried peppermint characters. Solid red fruit/mocha palate. Nice oak sweetness. $12

Mixed bag! “Somewhat disappointing class with light fruit being swamped with heavy or inappropriate oak”, commented one judge. 919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ Austere inky berry aromas and deep dark berry fruit intensity on the well-structured palate with good length of velvety tannins. 3-5 $42

Lindemans Bin 50 Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 Rich, inky, spicy berry bouquet and attractive primary fruit on the palate with the oak sitting in the background. $9.99

Jamiesons Run The Grazier South Eastern Australia Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Very commercial style with dark berry fruit supported by sweet and spicy vanillin oak. $7 Zilzie Wines Estate Australia Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Attractive toasty oak dominates here but there’s good varietal fruit expression underneath. $12 The Seafarer 570 Vines South Eastern Australia Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Spicy berry aromas; meaty/savoury flavours. Oak in background and tannins providing structure. $7 Trentham Estate Estate Murray Darling Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Berries, plums and spices on the nose and big fruity palate with plenty of tannins. 3-5 $16 919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Very ripe, concentrated and flavoursome with supporting oak and tannins holding the wine together. $42

Andrew Peace Wines Estate Swan Hill Victoria Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Long, savoury and elegant with dark fruit concentration and some oak toastiness. Drink now. $18

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED 14 TASTED 7 AWARDED An outstanding class of well-made fortifieds made in full and luscious styles ranging from an excellent dry Apera (sherry) style to the varietal tokay (topaque) and muscat ones. 919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Pale Dry Apera NV ★★★★★ “A beautiful aperitif style”, said one judge. “Very, very good”, agreed another. Sweet nuttiness on the nose with hints of apples. Palate is long and creamy with a toasty finish and crisp acidity. $32 919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Classic Tawny NV ★★★★★ Bright amber/golden colour with a complex nutty “pudding” nose. Flavoursome and wellconstructed palate with great length, softness and balance and lovely warm clean spirit. $32

919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Classic Muscat NV ★★★★★ A powerful and beautiful muscat that’s rich and luscious with Christmas cake-like aromas and flavours. Very good spirit and balancing tannins. True to style. 5+ $42 919 Wines Reserve Collection Riverland Classic Topaque NV ★★★★1/2 Obvious age with aromas of butterscotch, caramel and malt. Unctuous palate has beautifully evolving spicy Christmas pudding-like flavours. 3-5 $42 919 Wines Limited Release Riverland Vintage Fortified 2013 ★★★★1/2 Sweetmeats, spices and ripe plums fill the nose. The palate is luscious and sweet - the spirit soft and warm. The wine has seamless balance, intensity and complexity. $65 919 Wines Latin Collection Lambada Riverland White Fortified NV ★★★★ White port style with marmalade-like raisined aromas and a syrupy/ toffee palate with the sweetness matched by the acid and spirit. $19 919 Wines Latin Collection Ruby Riverland Fortified NV ★★★ Chocolaty berry fruit and some secondary maturation with very well integrated spirit. $19

JUDGES Jonathan Creek Senior winemaker of operations at Zilzie Winery. Formerly winemaker at Gallo Winery (US) and Coldstream Hills, Nepenthe & Brokenwood wineries. Associate judge at the Inland wine show in Swan Hill. 100

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Eric Semmler Proprietor of 919 Wine Company. Formerly winemaker for the Hardy Wine Company. Previously with Brown Brothers and Auldstone Cellars. Has spent eight years as fortified winemaker for Hardys. Associate judge at Rutherglen, McLaren Vale and Riverland shows.

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Dave Matthews Formerly Winemaker at Rosemount and Boar’s Rock and Group Winemaker for Treasury Wine Estates. Vintaged in Tuscany and California. Judged in Australia and overseas. Currently with Francois Freres group of cooperages.

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Atelier Original glassware featured Clarity remains after 4,000 commercial dishwasher cycles High resistance to breakages Totally transparent ultra clear glass Lead and other heavy metal free www.bormioliluigi.com Made in Italy since 1946 WorldMags.net

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travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN

OTAGO (Central Otago & Waitaki Valley)

HOME-FRONT FOCUS MISHA and Andy Wilkinson are the go-ahead

tourist in mind, the design concept for Misha’s

couple behind the successful Misha’s Vineyard

Vineyard Tasting Room was to create a

wines from Central Otago. Until recently the

simple yet elegant space that would enable

couple preferred to put their energy into

guests to have a relaxed personal tasting

floor, kitchen, upstairs bar and a veranda

export sales rather than opening a cellar door,

experience. A French country-inspired theme

room overlooking Queenstown’s busy mall.

but the times they are a changing. Misha’s

was chosen and the Wilkinsons also wanted

Two hand-built smokers and an Iberian-style

Vineyard has now opened a tasting room in

to bring the atmosphere of the vineyard into

charcoal oven are the main features of the

Cromwell - the heart of the Central Otago wine

the tasting room so three walls have large-

kitchen, which will serve food throughout

region - in an ideal location overlooking Lake

scale photographic murals showcasing the

the day and night. Wai Group co-owner and

Dunstan. The Wilkinsons have a spectacular

work of renowned local photographer Tim

director Jan Rae said the restaurant’s vibe is

57-ha estate on the edge of Lake Dunstan,

Hawkins. The facility includes a private tasting

“casual, approachable and upbeat”. Coalfire,

just 10 minutes from Cromwell, but felt a more

room for members of the newly launched

Mall St, Queenstown; phone “+64 3-442 8439

centrally located tasting room would be easier

Misha’s Vineyard Vine Club. Misha’s Vineyard

or visit www.coalfire.co.nz.

for guests to access. With 20 export markets

Tasting Room is open daily from 10am-4pm,

established and 10 vintages completed, the

and also offers platters and small plates for

Wilkinsons decided it was the right time to

those wanting to relax and enjoy a glass of

open a tasting room to showcase their wines.

wine and the views. “The opening of this

“We received calls every day from people

new tasting room, signifies a new phase of

visiting from overseas who are familiar with

growth for us,” said Misha. “From the outset,

our brand and want to visit,” said Andy. “We

the strategy for Misha’s Vineyard has been to

are also seeing increased tourism, with Central

build a premium brand working primarily with

Otago growing its reputation as a world-class

top restaurants, five-star hotels and premium

wine and food destination. Cromwell was also

wine retailers around the world as well as in

recently named the fastest-growing small

New Zealand. We’ve won many fans along

town in the country, so it’s really exciting

the way so now we have a place we can host

to be part of that growth.” Recent figures

them and thank them for their support, as well

from the Ministry of Business, Innovation

as the opportunity of winning some new fans.”

and Employment showed that the Central

Misha’s Vineyard Tasting Room, 180 State

Otago region had an 11.6 per cent increase

Highway 8B, Cromwell; phone +64 21 500

in visitor spending across all markets for the

904 or visit www.mishasvineyard.com.

year to January 2017. Tourism New Zealand says 20 per cent of tourists arriving in the country take part in a “wine experience”, up from 13 per cent in 2014. With the wine

102

W I N E S TAT E

EUREKA MOMENT

TEN OUT OF TEN THE award-winning Sofitel hotel in Queenstown has unveiled its new-look top suite, Penthouse No.10, following a $2 million update. Over the past decade, Penthouse No.10 has been a home-away-from-home for many movie stars, models and moguls visiting Queenstown. “We’re excited to reveal our new-look Penthouse No.10 which will appeal to loyal and new guests alike,” said general manager Vincent Macquet. “Our designers have worked to deliver a chic, modern makeover befitting a Parisian-meets-alpine style apartment. While we’ve updated our furnishings and artwork, and refreshed our luxe colour palette and finishes, the team also took care to retain the indulgent French influence and accessible Queenstown charm

QUEENSTOWN’S best-known restaurant and

of this amazing space, which has appealed

bar venues, the former home of the Brain

to and entertained so many guests over the

Eraser cocktail, has a whole new vibe and a

years.” Located just a few metres from the

new name. The historic Eureka Building was

heart of Queenstown on the top floor of the

built in 1864 as the Colonial Bank of New

Sofitel, distinctive features of the generous

Zealand but for 30 years it has been known as

225sqm penthouse include sweeping,

the late night music venue Chicos. Chicos and

unparalleled views of Lake Wakatipu, two

cafe and bar Old Man Rock were purchased

living areas and fireplaces, an eight-seater

last year by Queenstown hospitality group

dining table, private movie theatre, Bose

Wai Dining Group and it re-emerged as

audio system and latest technology Apple TV

a barbecue restaurant and bar known as

with more than 120 TV channels, plus Xbox

Coalfire Barbecue Bar. The new venue has a

Kinect facilities. An oversized patio comes

cosy bar and dining room downstairs, leading

complete with a six-seater Jacuzzi, perfect

to an internal staircase up to the main dining

for relaxing with a partner or a larger party of

September/October 2017

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friends. Penthouse No.10 can sleep up to six

adjacent to the existing Private Hotel, the new

design-driven hotel added to Central Otago’s

guests and features walk-in wardrobes (His

accommodation comes with private elevator

tourism hub, with 69 larger boutique designer

& Her’s) with make-up table and full-length

access, in-suite sauna, 24/7 butler service,

suites and what is billed as a “re-imagined

mirror. Bathrooms feature rain showers, in

a cocktail and whisky bar, and after-hours

hotel dining experience”. The hotel’s wining

addition to a full-body-length bath with a

private shopping opportunities. Guests will

and dining concepts - Bazaar Interactive

built-in TV and luxury Hermes products. A

enjoy Krug Champagne, a private chef and

Marketplace and Reds Bar - opened to

private bar offers a selection of eight different

chauffeur vehicle on call. The $NZ6 million

locals ahead of the hotel. Bazaar Interactive

white and red wines (a mix of French and

three-level building, which has doubled the

Marketplace, the hotel’s signature restaurant,

New Zealand such as Valli and Perrier-Jouet)

original footprint of the heritage hotel dating

re-interprets traditional hotel dining with

and high-end spirits like Grey Goose Vodka

back to 1867, also includes a new 150-seat

unparalleled views of Queenstown, Lake

and cocktail-making equipment. In addition, a

restaurant, The Grille by Eichardt’s, and two

Wakatipu and the surrounding mountain

butler is at Penthouse guests’ service to assist

lavish Hotel Lake View Suites. “We’re preparing

ranges, including the iconic The Remarkables.

with serving breakfast, and even helping with

for a new class of ultra-high net worth guests,”

Showcasing an international mosaic of foods,

shopping bags. The hotel’s executive chef

says Imperium Collection owner Andrew Cox.

the kitchen will focus on choice, with seafood,

will personally craft afternoon canapes daily.

“With a small yet powerful group of discerning

cheese and charcuterie bars, Asian and grill

Every guest staying in Penthouse No.10 will

guests heading to Queenstown on a regular

stations, authentic Italian wood-fired pizzas

be offered private airport transfers, breakfast

basis, often by private plane, The Penthouse is

and a dessert bar bursting with house-made

and canapes served daily in Left Bank Bistro

a natural extension of Eichardt’s luxury offering

creative sweets and pastries. Bazaar chefs will

or in the privacy of the Penthouse room

and is sure to make an entrance to the market

aim to provide a theatrical experience, while

(at no additional costs) by private waiter,

like no other.” The hotel’s general manager,

Reds Bar focuses on nostalgic alpine and

access to Sofitel’s exclusive Club Lounge

James Cavanagh, is excited to add the ultra-

apres ski ambiance, with equally impressive

and complimentary private bar beverages.

luxury offer to the alpine town. “Queenstown

views. Reds Bar aims to be where the party

The offer also features a decadent wellbeing

is an obvious choice for a growing number of

starts in Queenstown, with resident DJs

component to include a two-hour treatment

influential guests from Australia, the Americas

playing late into the night, an extensive

of the guest’s choice from the menu at

and Europe looking to enjoy stunning scenery,

cocktail list showcasing a twist on both the

Sofitel Queenstown’s award-winning So Spa.

authentic cuisine, fine wine, unique activities

ultra-modern and forgotten. Until the hotel

Guests can also choose to have their SoSpa

and experiences from this corner,” he says.

opens at 38-54 Lake Esplanade, Queenstown

treatment in the privacy of the Penthouse

“We offer a sense of privacy that no other

you can book to eat or drink at Bazaar or Reds

or on the balcony while overlooking scenic

destination in the world can compete with.”

via www.bazaarrestaurant.co.nz.

Lake Wakatipu. Luxury comes at a price with

Rates for the 240sqm (plus 100sqm balcony)

Penthouse No.10 costing from $NZ5000 per

Penthouse suite are from $NZ10,000 per

night; phone +64 3 450 0045 or visit www.

night, including taxes, with the two additional

sofitel-queenstown.com.

Lakefront Suites available for $NZ1950 per

Opposite page left: Andy and Misha Wilkinson of Misha’s Vineyard, Central Otago. Opposite page top right: The Penthouse patio spa. Top: Eichardt’s Private Hotel penthouse terrace. Below: QT Queenstown restaurant overlooking the Lake Wakatipu.

night. 2 Marine Parade, Queenstown; phone

ONE FOR THE ‘ULTRA-RICH’ THE changes keep coming at Eichardt’s Private Hotel with the opening of a new

+64 3-441 0450 or visit www.eichardts.com.

TOURISM HUB GOES ‘HIP’

$NZ10,000-a-night penthouse that is part of

QT is one of the hippest hotel brands in

an exclusive new waterfront development. An

Australia and New Zealand, and Queenstown

extensive terrace with a spa and sweeping

is the latest destination for the fast-growing

front-row views of Lake Wakatipu and full VIP

mini chain as the former Rydges Lakeland

service are key offerings here. Occupying

Resort undergoes a complete makeover.

the top level of a major new development

QT Queenstown will be the first five-star

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W I N E S TAT E

103

WorldMags.net 78 TASTED 64 AWARDED

O TA G O

Central Otago & Waitaki Valley

Although its reputation rests squarely on its ability to produce world-class pinot noir, our tasting showed that Central Otago is more than a one trick pony. Exciting riesling, first-rate pinot gris and chardonnay and a brilliant method traditionelle showed the diverse wine styles now being made. Yet as expected the tasting was dominated by pinot noir. Only a few years ago the region’s reputation rested on its ability to produce rich, deeply coloured and almost exotically flavoured wines, full of fruit and alcohol. But our tasting showed that today the landscape is much more varied; pinots with texture, the influence of whole cluster apparent, more sympathetic use of oak. It is an exciting time in Central. Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US).

Bannock Brae Marlene’s Gruner 2016 ★★★ Nice varietal definition; soft green herbs, a touch of pepper on the nose and a crisp, relatively full bodied palate. A good alternative to the drier styles of riesling. $25 Terra Sancta Riverblock Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ Sits firmly in the citrus and crisp tree fruit spectrum. Not too much oak to mask the pure flavours, and allows the palate to remain tight and bright. $29.95

RIESLING 12 TASTED 10 AWARDED

OTHER WHITES 11 TASTED 7 AWARDED

Quartz Reef Methode Traditionelle 2012 ★★★★★ Powerful aromas of freshly buttered brown bread and pastry crust confirm this wine spent an extended time en tirage. The palate is concentrated, focused yet beautifully delicate with a creamy, fine mousse. Strong acid line keeps the whole show on the road and the finish is taut and dry. A super example of cool climate sparkling wine. $50

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Domaine Rewa Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★1/2 Tight and lean, a great example of cool climate chardonnay that allows minerally fruit flavours of wet stone, crisp apple and pear to shine. Savoury and focused, just a hint of oak. Great length. $40 Brennan Trio 2016 ★★★★ An appealing, lightly aromatic white; rose petal, gingerbread and honeysuckle. This isn’t a powerful wine but a very pretty, softly textured, just off dry white, uncomplicated yet with enough flavour to hold one’s interest. $29

September/October 2017

Akarua Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ A bright, creamy style of chardonnay that is all about subtlety and restraint. Light stone fruit, red apple and fresh pear flavours are supported by a gentle undercurrent of oak which is beautifully integrated. Would cellar though drinking well now. $29 Domaine Road Sauvignon Blanc 2015 ★★★ A lighter bodied, cooler expression of sauvignon blanc; flavours sitting firmly in the cucumber, elderflower and freshly cut grass spectrum. Crisp and delicate. $23

As to be expected in this most southerly of regions, the cool continental climate is well suited to riesling. There is no one regional style; wines ranged from fairly austere and dry through to more succulent examples with a degree of sweetness.

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Domain Road Vineyard Duffers Creek Riesling 2015 ★★★★★ A really delicious wine; vivid citrussy aromas of freshly squeezed limes and lemons, some orange blossom too. Off dry with a mouthwatering, nervy acid spine. Good length. Plenty of density and interest yet retains a delightful lightness. $25

regional tasting

WorldMags.net Ostler Blue House Vines Waitaki Riesling 2012 ★★★★ Good to see a wine with some age. Definitely moving into the tertiary spectrum; kerosene and wet stone. Fairly sweet but held tight by a pretty firm acid spine and a saline, chalky finish. $25

PINOT GRIS 11 TASTED 8 AWARDED

A fabulous bracket of wines with the high scoring wines showing real excitement.

Bald Hills Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★1/2 A fragrant pinot gris with bright youthful flavours of pear and lemon, fruit focussed with a creamy generous texture. Ready to drink. $32

Bald Hills Riesling 2016 ★★★1/2 Fresh lime and juicy mandarin fruit on the nose with a touch of florals too. Off dry with crisp mouthwatering acidity providing a counterpoint. $30 Rockburn Tigermoth Riesling 2016 ★★★★ Pungent aromas of citrus, blossom and green apple. Medium dry, with a touch of grapefruit pith and wet stone texture and plenty of juicy acidity too. $39 Valli Waitaki Riesling 2016 ★★★★ A riper style, the fruit edging towards white fleshed nectarine and apricot rather than citrus. A fleshy wine, medium sweet with excellent depth of flavour and a lovely persistent finish. $30 Domaine Rewa Riesling 2014 ★★★★ Just starting to show some bottle developed aromas of toast and biscuit that sit nicely alongside those of citrus and red apple. Lovely and sweet with a delightful thread of acidity that keeps everything in balance. $27.50

Bald Hills Pinot Gris 2015 ★★★1/2 A gentle, lightly spicy wine with some mandarin and baked apple flavours. $32

Brennan Riesling 2016 ★★★1/2 A focused, tighter style of riesling full of wet stone and mineral. High acidity runs through the palate. For those who prefer drier rieslings. $29 Bald Hills Riesling 2015 ★★★1/2 Subtle mandarin and white fleshed peach aromas carry through to the palate which is juicy and ripe. $30 Bannock Brae Dry Riesling 2016 ★★★ Talcum powder and fresh satsuma. Tight and focused with a wet stone, pithy finish. $25 Ostler Lakeside Waitaki Riesling 2013 ★★★ Peaches and toast, some definite bottle developed characters coming through. A drier style that is perfect now. $29.90

Ostler Audrey’s Waitaki Pinot Gris 2015 ★★★★ “Chocolate digestives,” commented one judge. Maybe not a classic pinot gris note but one that seemed to capture the combination of biscuit, creamy fruit flavours. $35

Ostler Lakeside Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★ Definitely on the sweeter side; ripe red apple and poached pear. A bigger, bolder take on pinot gris. $29.90 Rockburn Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★★1/2 A slightly sweeter style with some blossom and talcum powder aromas and a nice baked apple crumble flavour. There is a touch of savoury pith that gives the wine texture. Pretty smart stuff. $30 Quartz Reef Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★★ An attractively textured subtle wine that has plenty of poached apple and pear on the nose. Uncomplicated with a delightful vibrant lifted flavour. Just a teensy bit off dry. $30

Peregrine Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★ A lighter, drier style of pinot gris; gently aromatic with fresh nashi pear and apple flavours leading to a chalky textured crisp, focussed palate. $29 Wooing Tree Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★ Gently aromatic; blossom and white petal sits alongside some apple and pear. Light on its feet; vivid fruit flavours with a nice line of acid. Off dry finish. $29

ROSÉ 1 TASTED 1 AWARDED

Two Degrees Rosé 2016 ★★★★ Really rather lovely. Bright strawberry and raspberry aromas, vibrant and full of life. The palate has a teeny hint of sweetness but the finish is dry and crisp. Cheerful. $24.95

PINOT NOIR 48 TASTED 32 AWARDED

A stimulating bracket of wines. Although there were some lovely wines made in Central’s more bold, exotic style there were others that showed use of whole bunch, less new oak and greater texture. Diverse group of pinots with some absolutely delicious standouts. Paul Henry’s Own Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Red cherry and strawberry aromas. Juicy and uncomplicated, this is a sweetly fruited, polished lighter bodied style of pinot. $30

JUDGES Jane Skilton MW Winestate’s New Zealand editor has worked in the wine trade for 33 years, 24 of those as a Master of Wine. She runs NZSWS, a wine education school, and judges wine competitions both at home and internationally.

Simon Nunns Head winemaker at Coopers Creek Vineyard in Auckland since 1998, Simon has also completed vintages Oregon, Bordeaux and Burgundy. He is a senior judge in all major New Zealand wine shows, a highly sought after educator and speaker and a passionate advocate for alternative grape varieties.

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Rebecca Deed PhD After completing her thesis on the effects of low temperature fermentation on wine yeast, Rebecca now lectures at the University of Auckland. WSET qualified, she enjoys wine show judging.

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Grasshopper Rock Earnscleugh Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 Gently aromatic with appealing notes of strawberry and raspberry. The palate is tightly bound with grippy, yet ripe tannins cloaking the fruit. The length is good however suggesting with some time, this will be a delicious wine. $35

Two Degrees Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Beautifully vibrant colour; lots of cherry fruit, with a little cinnamon spice too. Crisp and vivid with a firm acid spine. Silky tannins. A super, very appealing style of pinot. $38

Maude Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Soft red summer fruits interwoven with dried thyme and sage herbs. A lovely dynamic style of pinot; plenty of concentration and density but light on its feet. $36 Valli Bannockburn Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ This is truly lovely. Highly aromatic, full of fresh cranberry, redcurrant and raspberry aromas. Tight on the palate, with grippy yet beautifully ripe tannins. Definite touch of oak in the background. Only just starting its journey, it really needs time in bottle to be at its best. $65

Shaky Bridge Pioneer Series Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ Very deep colour. Fruit sits firmly in the darker spectrum; black cherry, damson. Exotic, opulent silky style with plenty in reserve. Too young – one judge described it as ‘brooding” but plenty of potential. $25 Pinot Noir Rua Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Red cherry and raspberry aromas with a touch of rose petal. Almost Beaujolais in style; acidity rather than tannin on the palate. Immensely cheerful and super delicious. $25

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Domain Road Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 A bigger framed pinot; dark cherry fruit sits alongside dense, grainy tannins. Powerful and dense. $40 Terra Sancta Mysterious Diggings Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Baked red strawberry with a touch of florals on the nose and a juicy, plummy palate. Already drinking well now, for the shorter haul. $26.95 Two Degrees Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Gently aromatic; raspberry and strawberry fruit with a little dried herb. A softly textured wine with plenty of appeal. $38

September/October 2017

Bald Hills Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ A bold style of pinot; darkly fruited with big chalky tannins but the finish is smooth and silky. Plenty of concentration and density, but needs time to really come into its own. $46 Terra Sancta Estate Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ A wine that polarized opinion; some liked the charry, slightly reductive note whilst others thought it a bit too much. Definitely a modern take on pinot noir. $34.95 Akarua Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 Classic Central pinot; generously fruited with dark berry and plum aromas, a silky yet tannic palate and a moderately long finish. $43

Rockburn Nine Barrels Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ A densely fruited wine that manages to remain firmly in the savoury red spectrum. Polished and glossy, no denying there is plenty of oak. Chalky, chewy tannins suggest this wine will age well as there is plenty of flavour and length to support. $96 Wooing Tree Beetle Juice Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 Gently aromatic; some raspberry and red cherry fruit. Moderately concentrated, made for short to medium term drinking. $28 Akitu A2 Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Starting to show some developed aromas of forest floor alongside the red fruits. Chalky tannins are well integrated. Moderate length. $39.90 Valli Gibbston Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Attractive plum and raspberry sits alongside some cinnamon and spice new oak with some secondary notes just starting to peep through. The palate is quite tightly knit but the long persistent finish suggests this wine has the concentration to develop well. $65

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Folding Hill Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Pretty aromas of dark bramble fruits interwoven with rose petal and dried thyme. The palate is silky and fine with just a dusting of tannin. $45 Akitu A1 Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ One of the more edgy wines with a note of smoky reduction overlying the dark berry fruit. New oak sits nicely alongside the core of sweet fruit. $59.90 Wooing Tree Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★★ Exotic plum and liquorice spice on the nose leading to some sweet berry fruit on the palate. Quite a bit of charry oak and a touch of reduction; this is a powerful bold wine that is just starting to show some evolution. $48 Wild Earth Special Edition Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★ Some definite leafy, forest floor notes starting to emerge with a touch of wintergreen too. Gently fruited, drinking well now. $65 Peregrine Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★★ Took a little time to open up but then plenty of charry oak on the nose with a hint of cinnamon spice suggesting a portion of whole berries were included. This gives a strong textural edge to the wine, balancing the exotic plum and berry fruit flavours. Nice line of acidity keeps the palate tense. Long finish. $45

regional tasting

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Hawkshead First Vines Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 Fragrant plum and cherry with a hint of spice. Good depth of flavour with a background of smoky oak. Not too much tannin and a silky palate, this is a wine for the medium term. $54

Folding Hill Orchard Block Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Vivid youthful colour. Intense exuberant aroma of plum and berry with strong dried thyme and lavender notes too. Sweetly fruited with plenty of concentration. $65

Domaine Rewa Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 A dense, dark pinot with aromas in the damson plum and dark berry spectrum. A bold style that combines toasty oak with firm, chewy tannins. Needs a little time to fully integrate. $40

Wild Earth Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Appealing fruits of the forest aromas sit alongside those of charry, smoky oak. A fuller bodied wine that carries plenty of fruit alongside the warming alcohol. Generous and appealing. $46

Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Powerful and complex aromas of chocolate dipped orange peel, smoky oak, damson and black cherry lead to a densely fruited palate. The flavours are persistent and though there is quite a lick of tannin, the concentration more than supports. For the long term. $80 Hawkshead Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Strong aromas of cinnamon spice suggest this wine had some whole cluster berries in the ferment. There is dark berry and lavender notes too. Edgy and textural, this is a super expression of Bannockburn. $54 Domain Road Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Gently aromatic with raspberry and red plum. The palate is densely fruited with plenty of concentration, some new oak giving a smoky, charry edge and a long lingering finish. $40

GANTLEYS RESTAURANT

Brennan B2 Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; This is lovely. Not overly complex but with masses of cherry and berry fruit, a touch of forest floor and dried thyme. Sweetly fruited with a very light touch of oak in the background. Accessible and joyful. $30 Ostler Carolineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Waitaki Valley Pinot Noir 2013 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Definitely showing signs of evolution; forest floor, truffle and game. The strong acid spine hints at the cooler origin but there is plenty of fruit to support. $59 Wooing Tree Sandstorm Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Showing bottle aged notes of game and mushroom. Still a touch of tannin on the palate but nicely evolved. $85

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WorldMags.net J A N E S K I LT O N M W RECENT RELEASES An interesting tasting with chardonnay and pinot noir dominating the section and also a great selection of syrahs. Also, a couple of fantastic gewurtztraminer’s that are well worth seeking out. Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US).

Mount Riley Limited Release Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ A very engaging style of Marlborough pinot; dried lavender, red cherry and cranberry fruit flavours. Appealing silky texture with soft papery tannins. Not the biggest nor boldest but a lovely gentle wine. $25

Alpha Domus AD Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★★ Barrel ferment notes of nutmeg and sweet spice complement the perfectly ripe white nectarine and peach fruit flavours. There’s a nice chalky texture to the palate which keeps the wine interesting and the finish is long and savoury. Really rather lovely. $38

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Mission Estate Gewurztraminer 2016 ★★★★★ Textbook gewurz; rose petal, lychee and Turkish delight aromas jostle for attention. Richly textured with a definite sweetness gives a plump, squishy mouthfeel and leads to a lingering finish. A wine full of personality. $15

September/October 2017

Zephyr Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2016 ★★★★1/2 Bourbon rose and pink Turkish delight flavours compete with a generous seasoning of sweet spice. Off dry with an attractive gingerbread textural edge that keeps the palate in balance. Long sustained finish. Simply delicious. $24 Alpha Domus The Pilot Leonarda Late Harvest 2015 ★★★★1/2 Lots of botrytis here; manuka honey, dried apricot and rye bread complement the golden peach and mango flavours. Intensely sweet with a lovely succulent texture and a zesty, crisp finish. $20

Elephant Hill Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Delightful Otago characters of dark plum, cherry and dried thyme on the nose whilst chewy dense tannins support the concentrated fruit flavour. This is a powerful, impressive wine that is just a little closed right now. $34

Stoneleigh Wild Valley Marlborough Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ Grilled pineapple and freshly squeezed lime juice aromas with some digestive bran biscuit oak sitting nicely alongside. Smartly made wine with a silky yet dry finish. Excellent value. $19

Elephant Hill Syrah 2015 ★★★★1/2 This is lovely. Smoked barbecue meat, black pepper and spice. Dense and compact with firm, savoury tannins, this is a richly textured syrah. There is a real persistence of flavour that suggests this will develop well in bottle. $34

Zephyr Marlborough Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ Beautifully restrained; plenty of flavour but done in an understated, textural way. White nectarine and citrus fruit flavours, subtle integrated oak in the background and a lovely succulent thread of acidity. Good stuff. $32

Marsden Black Rocks Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ Peach, nectarine and red grapefruit aromas, interwoven with a nice touch of barrel ferment characters of bran biscuit and gun smoke. Creamy and subtle but with plenty of flavour. Attractive interpretation of modern NZ chardonnay. $40 Black Cottage Reserve Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ Understated chardonnay; appealing rock melon and red apple fruit supported by a whisper of oak and an attractive silky texture. Not a blockbuster but nicely balanced and very appealing. $20

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Toi Toi Marlborough Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★★ Lovely bright vivid fruit aromas sit firmly in the capsicum, snow pea and citrus spectrum. Crisp and juicy with a fresh lemon acid backbone, plenty of flavour and a crisp dry finish. $21.95 Toi Toi Late Harvest Dessert Wine 2016 ★★★★ Late harvest riesling contributes plenty of super ripe, honeyed papaya and peach aromas. Super sweet but with a lovely lively acid spine that gives a mandarin and lime edge to the flavours and keeps everything in balance. $17.95

recent releases

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Sacred Hill BEST LUE Orange Label VA BUYS Hawkes Bay Merlot Cabernet 2016 ★★★★ Black plummy fruit, some charry, cinnamon and nutmeg oak and a silky medium bodied palate combine to give an approachable, well executed savoury red. Plenty of wine for the price. $20 NZ

Church Road Hawkes Bay Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Super bold, chewy and dense with masses of blackcurrant and plum. Touches of star anise and graphite too. Not the most polished of wines but plenty of dense sweet fruit and a long finish. $19.95

½ Mount Riley 17 Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Quite shy when first tasted but with a little time in the glass opened to reveal some ripe stone fruit and apple flavours. Savoury. $28 Mount Riley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Bright, fruit focussed chardonnay with ripe nectarine and rock melon flavours to the fore. Not especially complex but has lots of drink me now appeal. $18 Alpha Domus The Skybolt Chardonnay 2015 ★★★1/2 Plenty of golden peach and ripe melon fruit upfront, leading to moderately concentrated palate. The oak is well judged and zippy acidity keeps the wine in balance. $26

Alpha Domus The Pilot Chardonnay 2015 ★★★1/2 Appealing citrussy chardonnay that is immediately appealing. Vibrant fruit flavours of melon and yellow plum are unencumbered by too much oak giving a bright, honest wine. $20

Elephant Hill Viognier 2016 ★★★1/2 A more subtle style of viognier; yellow plum and nectarine with a touch of honeysuckle musk. Gently textural with a crisp dry finish. $29 Mission Estate Riesling 2015 ★★★1/2 The nose is full of freshly squeezed grapefruit and lime and although the palate is fairly sweet, there is plenty of succulent acidity to balance. $15 Mission Estate Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 An exotic aroma; liquorice and rose petal sit alongside dark fruits. A generous softly textured pinot noir. $16 Mount Riley Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Bright vivid red fruit flavours of dried cranberry and strawberry with a gentle bite of tannin on the finish. Drinking well now. $20 Church Road McDonald Series Hawkes Bay Marzemino 2015 ★★★1/2 Red liquorice, smoked meat, raspberry and even a touch of pepper. Bold fruit flavours surrounded by chewy dense tannins. An unusual wine but curiously appealing. $28

Elephant Hill Le Phant Rouge 2015 ★★★1/2 An appealing medium bodied red; blackberry and plum flavours, richly textured with some smoky oak and a nudge of chewy tannin. $24 Mission Estate Reserve Syrah 2016 ★★★1/2 A juicy, vivid style of syrah which has a lovely combination of white pepper and raspberry fruit and just a touch of tannin. Softly textured and immediately appealing. $22

Mount Riley Syrah 2016 ★★★1/2 Not so much of the black pepper found in Hawkes Bay and instead this speaks of Marlborough; juicy red raspberry fruit flavours, silky and super approachable, already drinking well. $20 Marsden Vigot Syrah 2015 ★★★1/2 Although there is plenty of oak cloaking the palate, there is a decent amount of spicy black berry fruit underneath. A bold glossy red. $45

Mission Estate Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★ Bright apple and pear fruit on the nose leading to a creamy off dry, juicy palate. Well-made and great value. $15 Black Cottage Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Very youthful and primary with juicy aromas of red plum and berry. A nice core of fruit sweetness contributes to an appealing easy drinking style of pinot. $20 Black Cottage Reserve Central Otago Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ A bigger framed style of pinot; dense brooding dark cherry and plum fruit underpinned by firm tannins. Needs time. $25

Coopers Creek Gisborne Malbec 2015 ★★★ Ripe blackberry and bramble fruit on the nose with a touch of malbec’s wild, untamed fruit. Crunchy acidity and firm tannins. Good value. $19 Stoneleigh Marlborough Merlot 2016 ★★★ An uncomplicated, easy drinking merlot, full of red plum and cherry fruit. Not a bold wine but a charming sweetly fruited one. $17.29 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2015 ★★★ Black pepper and plum with a touch of wintergreen too. Generous and dense with plenty of tannin but ripe and balanced. A long persistent finish. $35

Church Road McDonald Series Hawkes Bay Tempranillo 2015 ★★★ Bold cassis and plum fruit flavours are supported by quite a lot of new oak to give a full bodied, fairly chewy style of red. $28

Mission Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Sits firmly in the citrus/ grapefruit spectrum. Tight and focussed with a lovely backbone of acidity and a touch of oak rounding out the palate. $22 Mount Riley 17 Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ Gently aromatic with guava and red capsicum aromas upfront whilst some biscuit and bran hints the wine spent time in older oak. Textural and dry. $22

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WorldMags.net 2014

2012

Top 5 - 2016

2017

Pertaringa 2015

Yeoman Shiraz

‘Australian Winemaker of the Year’

TROPHY

2012

Decanter World Wine Awards 2017

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AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND

insider

WorldMags.net the wine & spirit September/October 2017 Issue 155

THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

In this issue...

New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20 WorldMags.net

www.totinowines.com.au

WorldMags.net 175 TASTED 107 AWARDED

NEW RELEASES A high strike rate for recommended wines this time showing OTHER WHITE consistency of winemaking across the board. Lots of highly scored VARIETALS & wines here and lots of quaffers. Highlights were the surprisingly BLENDS good range of pinots and the usual consistent results from the ever 10 TASTED 6 AWARDED forgiving shiraz variety. Mixed varietals - mixed results! If you pick and choose there are some nice wines here.

SPARKLING 6 TASTED 6 AWARDED A solid class of good commercial styles that are well-made and without any faults. Sidewood Chloe Cuvee Adelaide Hills Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★★1/2 A lovely rich complex nose smelling of bright melons with tropical touches. Great complexity to the creamy palate with excellent flavours and nice tight line of acid. $30

Brazil Intenso Brut Pao de Acucar Sparkling Glera NV ★★★★ Ripe chardonnay aromas with some candied characters. Good length and structure to the wellbalanced and creamy palate. $21.99 Sidewood Isabella Adelaide Hills Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2013 ★★★★ Aged complex honeyed strawberry bouquet with more of the strawberry characters obvious on the long tight varietal palate. $30

Bird in Hand Adelaide Hills Sparkling Pinot Noir 2017 ★★★ Light pink wine with fleshy strawberry-like bouquet and some residual sugar filling the palate. $25

Artwine Madame V Single Vineyard Clare Valley Viognier 2017 ★★★★ Nose has a lift of dried apricots and a dash of black pepper. Rich and creamy on the fruit palate with more of the apricot nuances. $22

Norton Summit Vineyard Late Disgorged Methode Traditionelle Adelaide Hills Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2010 ★★★ A big rich old fashioned Aussie style with a complexity of toasty bottle age. $32.50

Artwine Wicked Stepmother Single Vineyard Clare Valley Fiano 2017 ★★★★ A clean fresh dry style with lemon/citrus fruit and showing some tropical touches underscored by minerally acidity. A nice quaffer. $25

Sidewood Adelaide Hills Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV ★★★ Smells fresh and fruity. Nice acid drive to the palate with a slightly sweet finish. $20

Brygon Reserve Wines Third Wheel WA Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★★ A very light tropical lift to the crisp varietal nose. Great palate, well balanced with very nice texture and full of varietal flavours. $19.99 Brygon Reserve Wines Strategy SEA Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★1/2 Big punchy sweet tropical aromas and very flavoursome palate with floral spicy notes. Good drinking now. $19.99 Shingleback Haycutters McLaren Vale Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★ Light tropical nuances to the nose with a clean, simple and flavoursome palate. $17.95 Kalleske Florentine Barossa Chenin Blanc 2017 ★★★ A pleasant simple dry white style. Some honeysuckle fragrances and residual sugar on the palate. $20

JUDGES - DAY 1 James Evers

Stephen John

Steve Warrick

Senior Winemaker,

Senior Winemaker for The

Wine marketer with

Nepenthe Wines and

Wine Group Australia and

20 years experience

Australian Vintage (SA

owner/winemaker of Stephen

in McLaren Vale,

Premiums for 11 years).

John Wines. More than 30

Coonawarra, Adelaide

Previously winemaker

years’ winemaking experience.

Hills and Margaret

at Mildara, Coonawarra

Has judged at Adelaide,

River. Extensive wine

and Glendonbrook and

National, and Barossa wine

judging experience at

Rothbury in the Hunter

shows. Regular Winestate

the Adelaide, Hobart

Valley.

panellist and chairman of judges

and McLaren Vale wine

at the Winestate Wine of the

shows.

Year Awards.

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The W ine & Spirit INSIDER

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wine & spirit insider tasting

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SAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDS 17 TASTED 5 AWARDED The judges said the wines that were reviewed here were

very good but the others showed the difference

Second Left Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ Subdued tropical fruit characters on the nose but big and rich in the mouth. $7.99

Artiste Eden Valley Pinot Grigio 2016 ★★★ A bright fresh and simple drink. Touch of green on the nose and a wellstructured palate. $24

RIESLING PINOT GRIS/ GRIGIO

4 TASTED 4 AWARDED

6 TASTED 6 AWARDED

A small but good group

between those who were making a "cash

A group of ‘crowd-

cow" rather than wines

pleasers’ that "Are

with dedicated sauvignon

made for drinking not

blanc varietal characters.

thinking!” according to

Reillys Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★★ A varietal lift to the subtle nose and lovely fruit tingle flavours running the entire length of the palate. Excellent lunch wine. $25 Kaiora Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★★ Well-made wine with nice gooseberry lift to the nose and lovely elegant tropical flavours on the balanced, textured and weighty palate. $8.99 Kaiora Bay Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★★ Lovely lingering aromatics with a pleasant herbaceous edge and exotic tropical flavours on the lengthy palate. Very New Zealand! $11.99

CHARDONNAY 25 TASTED 13 AWARDED

of fresh zesty wines to

"The good, the bad

either drink or keep.

and the ugly!" "Some fantastic wines here with layered complexity and balance, but the worst ones here showed basic

one judge. Bird in Hand Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★★1/2 A delightful fresh aromatic wine that is powerful and generous and yet refined and elegant. Big hit of passionfruit and gooseberry fruit on both the nose and palate. $25

Hoggies Estate Limestone BEST VALUE Coast Riesling BUYS 2016 ★★★ An acid-driven wine with defined zesty lime/ lemon varietal fruit characters. $14.99

wine making faults of

Nature's Step Organic SA Pinot Grigio 2017 ★★★★ Fresh estery lemonadelike aromas with good length of intense pearlike varietal flavours on the nicely textured palate. $12

oxidation caused either through bad handling or low sulphur regimes."

Tenafeate Creek Eden Valley Pinot Grigio 2017 ★★★ A pretty pink wine with honeyed aromas and elegant, cool climate style of palate. $20 Artwine Prego Single Vineyard Clare Valley Pinot Grigio 2017 ★★★ Simple fruit nose with spicy floral suppleness and pleasant sweet fruit flavours. $22 Impressionist Eden Valley Pinot Grigio 2016 ★★★ Mild spiciness to the sweet fruit nose. Zesty palate showing delicate varietal characters. $15 Trentham Estate Murray Darling Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★ Nice nose - smells like a fruit salad and has an attractive zesty lemon flavour profile. $16

Artiste South Face Eden Valley Riesling 2016 ★★★★1/2 An elegant wine with light but intense varietal aromas and a big flavoursome palate with heaps of sweet fruit sitting in the riper spectrum lingering across the palate. $24 Black Stump Frankland River BEST Riesling VALUE BUYS 2016 ★★★1/2 Powerful estery citrus bouquet with a simple, fresh and clean palate showing good length of flavour and nice acidity. $18 Brangayne Of Orange Orange Riesling 2016 ★★★1/2 Lifted varietal nose of limes and lemons which is echoed on the slightly sweet palate creating lovely flavours. $22

Fox Gordon The Empress Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★★ A beautiful wine showing delicate green hues. It has a lifted complexity of toasty oak and tropical fruit aromas with nice nutty flavours underpinned by sweet stonefruit characters. $24.95

Fifth Estate Wines Geographe Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ Lifted, slightly flinty, aromas with excellent complexity of toasty oak and stonefruits. The palate has delicious layers of varietal fruit and toasty Warner Vineyard The nutty complexity with a Rest Beechworth lingering finish. $24 Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★★ Delightful combination of nutty oak and stonefruit aromas with just a hint of the tropics. Fantastic fleshy mouthfeel and extraordinary length of varietal flavours. $33

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NEW RELEASES

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Bird in Hand Two in the Bush Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★1/2 Lifted bouquet of fresh peaches with just a hint of oak. Simple but elegant in the mouth with long fresh creamy flavours that linger along the length of the palate. $25 Bird in Hand Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★1/2 Fresh varietal fruit aromatics beautifully integrated with a light touch of oak. Rich and buttery in the mouth with plenty of flavour, sweet oak and tight acidity. $35

Taylors Jaraman Clare Valley Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ Nose is an elegance of sweet oak and lifted fruit. Nicely constructed palate with generous flavours showing controlled intensity. $25 MyattsField Vineyard Manjimup Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★ Lovely ripe peaches and cream-like aromas and great volume of sweet fruit and toasty oak flavours. Slightly warming finish. $26

Brygon Reserve Wines Third Wheel Reserve Cellar Release Margaret River Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★ A classy cool climate style of chardonnay that has typical elegance and freshness running throughout with a zippy citrus finish. $29.99

Brygon Reserve Wines Signature Series Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 A nice simple melon and cashew bouquet with lovely chardonnay flavours on the rich and fleshy palate. $19.99 Brygon Reserve Wines The Bruce Margaret River Chardonnay 2015 ★★★1/2 Reserved peachy bouquet and nice fresh fruit flavours. An honest varietal offering excellent lunch-time drinking. $24.99 Trentham Estate Murray Darling Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ An oak-driven style with lovely toasty nutty nose and flavours of hazelnuts and nectarines. $16 Brygon Reserve Wines Martha's Lane Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Rich buttery wine with honey dew-like fruit characters. A very good quaffer. $19.99

Mr Riggs Montepulciano d'Adelaide Adelaide Montepulciano 2016 ★★★★ A big tannic wine, intensely crimson in colour, with lovely blackberry fruit characters. It has savoury aromas and great flavours. $30

Tomich Wines Icons of Woodside Q96 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ Beautiful creamy honeyed caramel aromas and flavours. Ready for drinking now. $60

ROSÉ 5 TASTED 2 AWARDED

Mr Riggs Yacca Paddock Adelaide Hills Tempranillo 2016 ★★★1/2 A powerful inky nose and lovely rich palate with generous dark spicy red fruit flavours and classic tannin profile. $30

A couple of nice wines from a diverse colour spectrum! Deep Woods Estate Harmony Margaret River Rosé 2017 ★★★★ Pretty "dolly" pink wine with sweet aromas of strawberries and roses and light fresh flavours on the well balanced palate. $15 Bird in Hand Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Rosé 2017 ★★★ A drier style with musky aromatics and simple red fruit flavours. $20

OTHER RED VARIETALS & BLENDS 12 TASTED 7 AWARDED A mixed range of wines with mixed results with some very good examples of exciting old world varieties made in the new world!

Kalleske Buckboard Barossa Durif 2016 ★★★★1/2 A real classic with its huge "Indian ink"-like nose and masses of rich sweet varietal fruit flavours on the oak dominated palate with big tannins. $25 Coriole McLaren Vale Sangiovese 2016 ★★★★ A classic savoury spicy sangiovese nose and palate with dried red fruit characters, sweet tannins and a nice acid finish. $27 Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Langhorne Creek Malbec 2016 ★★★★ A pleasant fresh and lifted blueberry-like bouquet with plenty of upfront fruit on the palate, firm tannins and crunchy acidity. $30

Fox Gordon The Dark Prince Adelaide Hills Nero D'Avola 2016 ★★★ A light fruity lift to the nose and nicely balanced, well focussed, spicy red fruit flavours. $24.95 Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy McLaren Vale Nero D'Avola 2016 ★★★ Sweet and spicy aromas and a full-flavoured palate showing good tannin length. $30

PINOT NOIR 19 TASTED 12 AWARDED "The dry vintages of 2015 and 2016 produced under ripe/overripe characters. The best wines came from the fuller fruit that could handle the stalks," said one judge. "Some excellent complex wines," said another.

JUDGES - DAY 2 Andrew Locke Winemaker with Rosemount Wines since 1998. Previously he was a winemaker with Orlando Wyndham and De Bortoli Wines. He has completed vintages in the US and Loire (France). In 1993 he attended the AWRI advanced assessment course. 114

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NEW RELEASES

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Scotchmans Hill Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ Nose is a beautiful complexity of caramel and chocolate characters mixed with the varietal fruit. Very generous palate with gamey/ raspberry flavours. "The complete package." $35

K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ A wine with class and elegance that has sweet spicy fruit and slight stalkiness. $45

Taylors Winemakers Project Barrel Selection Tasmania Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ A bright, lively and zippy wine with a simple fruit nose and lovely long lingering varietal flavours. Nice acid line. A good quaffer. $45

GRENACHE & BLENDS

Norton Summit Vineyard Fourth Creek Single Vineyard Biologique Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 Christmas cake-like spiciness to the nose with nice complexity and good "pinosity" on the light fresh palate. $27.50

Tomich Wines Duck & Weave Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Nose shows a complex lift of raspberries and cherries - very pinot! A classy palate; elegant structure, good balance and mouthfeel. $18 Sidewood 777 Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ "A very smart style." Obvious pinot aromas of strawberries and herbs with an elegant, flavoursome and well balanced palate. $35

Whimsy Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Attractive fresh clean herbaceous style with cherry fruit and stalky tannins. $27 Brangayne Of Orange Orange Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Beautiful spicy varietal fruit here mixed with hints of fresh herbs and some earthiness. $35

8 TASTED 4 AWARDED "Some winemakers make

Tomich Hill Hilltop Sidewood Pinot Noir Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Adelaide Hills Pinot Attractive cherry fruit Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 A classic complex bright characters here with crimson pinot with lovely some gamey notes to the nose and spiciness on the seamless integration lengthy palate. $28 of the new oak, spicy varietal fruit and forest Tomich Woodside floor-like elements. It Vineyard Adelaide has elegance! $30 Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Great raspberry/cherrylike "pinosity" on the nose and lovely balance of fresh varietal fruit flavours with classy oak. $30

Trentham Estate Murray Darling Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Smells like wine jubes! The lovely palate is a little sweet with good weight and texture. $16

MERLOT & BLENDS

4 TASTED 4 AWARDED

merlot but think cabernet which can't handle the same treatment," noted one judge. "They need to be more gentle with

"Beautiful wines," remarked one judge. "The Millennials will love them." Claymore Wines You'll Never Walk Alone Clare Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2016 ★★★★★ Great ripe fruit basket of a nose layered with licorice characters. Silky smooth in the mouth with lovely expression of rich jammy fruit flavours with velvety tannin finish. $20 d'Arenberg The Ironstone Pressings McLaren Vale Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2014 ★★★★ Great earthy, licorice and blackberry bouquet. Lovely tight palate with earthy tones showing through. Good tannic finish. $65 Blackbilly Old Vine McLaren Vale Grenache 2013 ★★★★ Lovely fruit-driven wine with attractive earthy complexity. It has lifted varietal aromas and tightly structured palate with good fruit weight. $23 Blackbilly McLaren Vale G.S.M. 2015 ★★★1/2 An attractive old school style with quite a complex spicy floral nose and slightly broad, raspberry fruit palate. $23

the Aussie clones." A few nice examples here to try. Brygon Reserve Wines Third Wheel WA Merlot 2015 ★★★1/2 A rich well rounded wine with a good balance of cedary oak and ripe mulberry-like fruit characters. $19.99 Brygon Reserve Wines Hummingbird Margaret River Merlot 2015 ★★★1/2 A broader style of merlot that is holding up well with simple plum fruit on the nose and a nicely textured palate. $24.99

Leconfield Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot Bird in Hand 2015 ★★★★1/2 Adelaide Hills A riper style of wine with Merlot 2015 ★★★1/2 excellent colour depth. Chocolaty plum-like Lifted menthol notes to nose leading on to a the nose and excellent lovely big, rich palate that shows good balance length and balance of and plenty of length. $40 jammy fruit and sweet oak flavours. $26 Bird in Hand Two in the Bush Adelaide Hills Merlot Cabernet 2015 ★★★ A simple style with no obvious oak but nice herbaceous/blackcurrant/ mulberry fruit. $25

CABERNET & BLENDS 23 TASTED 13 AWARDED "Quite a few dried out wines here," said one judge. "Cabernet should not be picked too ripe otherwise it loses varietal character."

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Berton Vineyards Metal Label Padthaway Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★★1/2 Lovely depth of red/ purple colour with hints of black. Ripe and jammy on the nose with fresh earthy notes and slight menthol lift. Great intensity of rich jammy flavours. $12

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Bird in Hand Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★1/2 Lovely mix of fruit, oak and mint aromas with a richness of flavours on an elegant palate that, according to one judge, "Screams of cabernet". $40 Reillys Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★★1/2 Lovely dark red purple wine with powerful blackberry jam bouquet and a big rich and ripe varietal palate with plenty of length and balance. No obvious oak. $25

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NEW RELEASES

WorldMags.net Claymore Wines Bittersweet Symphony Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Mature aromas; quite oaky with a richness of black fruits. Nicely structured, oak-driven, palate with good flavour depth. $25

Wood Block Wines Single Vineyard Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Lovely cassis and sweet oak bouquet with a rich, complex and beautifully layered palate that has a soft velvety finish. $30 Stable Hill The Masked Knight Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★1/2 Blackcurrant varietal nose with minty/ herbal lift. Lovely alert palate with bright fruit and an extra layer of complexity. $22 Reillys Dry Land Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★1/2 Mature black fruit aromas with pleasant mintiness. Palate is smooth and balanced with lingering dark fruit flavours. $38 Trentham Estate Murray Darling Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2015 ★★★ Subtle fruit and mint fragrances with attractive varietal flavours on a smooth palate. $16 Tomich Wines Hole in One Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★ Somewhat simple style with no obvious oak but nice dark varietal fruit aromas and flavours. $18

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Brygon Reserve Wines Flying High Margaret River Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2015 ★★★ A simple medium intensity wine with somewhat reserved dark cherry fruit characters. $24.99

Brygon Reserve Wines Third Wheel Reserve Cellar Release Margaret River Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2015 ★★★ Nose of lifted ripe cassis-like fruit with cedary oak which is echoed on the lightweight palate. $29.99 Blue Pyrenees Estate Richardson Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ★★★ A beautiful, complex and still very fresh cabernet with rich black fruits and new oak. $65

Shingleback BEST Red Knot VALUE BUYS Classified McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 "A brooding monster that will unlock with time," according to one judge. Masses of dark fruits with black olive-like savoury characters and light use of oak. $19

Coriole Redstone McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 Big dark ripe plum jam bouquet with lots of pepper and spice - "Very McLaren Vale!" Huge palate, high in alcohol and needing plenty of time to mellow. $20 GMH South Australia Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 "A crunchy wine that will endure time well," said one judge. Loaded with lovely earthy dark plum fruit with a big dash of black pepper. Palate is long and well rounded. $20

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2017/2016 15 TASTED 10 AWARDED Lots of very good wines here. "This is what Australia does so well," commented one of the judges. "These wines show vibrancy, deep rich flavours and seamless balance." "These offer the best bang for your buck," said another. Taylors The Restless Wine Merchant Wrattonbully Shiraz 2016 ★★★★★ A rich oaky shiraz with beautiful depth of dark plum fruit aromas layered with vanillin oak. The complex palate is rich and velvety in the mouth. "Very modern style - drink now or cellar." $15

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Kalleske Moppa Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 A classic Aussie shiraz nose; it's rich, ripe and fresh. Great palate, creamy in the mouth with lovely complexity and balance of fresh fruit and new oak flavours. $28

2015 Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2015 Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon

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NEW RELEASES

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BEST Shingleback VA LUE BUYS Red Knot McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ Powerful ripe fruit nose; slightly jammy but oaky. "Palate is light on its feet," according to one judge with nice balance and intensity of flavours. $14.95

Berton Vineyards Metal Label SEA The Black Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 Smells like a Christmas cake with lovely freshness of primary fruit flavours on the velvety rich palate. $12 Blackbilly McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Lovely medium bodied style. Nice red and black fruit characters with sweet vanillin oak. $23 Tamburlaine Preservative Free Orange Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Spicy black fruit bouquet and lovely balance and intensity of rich varietal fruit flavours. $25 Rouleur McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 ★★★ A clean fresh and simple quaffer with attractive ripe primary fruit reminiscent of mulberries. $32

Bird in Hand Nest Egg Mt Lofty Ranges Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Excellent mélange of sweet oak and spicy blackberry aromas. Lovely palate with the oak tending to dominate but it has beautiful varietal fruit underneath. $100

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2015 & OLDER 20 TASTED 14 AWARDED A strong class with some great wines but disappointingly there were also some terrible wines that did not get

recommended. However, the best wines showed the way with great balance, fruit depth and above all - vivacity. Taylors St Andrews Clare Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ Excellent colour with delightful spicy blackberry and mochalike complexity on the nose. Beautifully structured palate with long intense fleshy fruit flavours and a lingering velvety finish. $70 d'Arenberg The Dead Arm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★★ Bright purple wine with great dark fruit intensity on the nose and a huge palate packed with grippy tannins that are well supported by an incredible depth of varietal fruit. $65

Bird in Hand Two in the Bush Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Lovely lift and freshness to this attractive, medium-bodied, wine that has a spicy fruit/ oak bouquet and an attractive fresh oak palate. $25 Artwine The Kelly Surrender Single Vineyard Clare Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ A warm oaky/savoury wine that smells like black olive tapenade. Soft in the mouth with lovely fruit/oak balance. A good food wine. $30 Bird in Hand Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ A huge old fashioned style of shiraz with ripe jammy aromas and spicy nutmeg/clove-like characters on the velvety soft palate. $40

Hollick Wilgha Coonawarra Shiraz 2013 ★★★★ A lovely wine - very classy and holding up well. It has plenty of dark peppery varietal fruit characters and some nice grippy tannins. $54

Brygon Reserve Wines Third Wheel Reserve Cellar Release Margaret River Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 Bright red/purple wine with good balance of smoky dark berry fruit and vanillin oak aromas and flavours. $29.99 Scotchmans Hill Bellarine Peninsula Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Rich Cherry Ripe-like characters on the maturing nose and the soft developing palate. "An excellent dinner wine." $35 Heslop Wines Mudgee Shiraz Cabernet Merlot 2014 ★★★1/2 A powerful, old fashioned, jammy fruit style with big mouthfeel and a high level of warming alcohol. $35

Taylors The Pioneer Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Ripe stewed fruit-like varietal characters here with oaky complexity. Showing nice maturity and pleasant acid finish. $200 Impressionist Eden Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Spicy peppery fruit bouquet and fresh lively fruit palate. A very nice quaffer. $15 Longhop Mt Lofty Ranges Shiraz BEST VALUE 2015 ★★★ BUYS A huge wine with a ripe jammy fruit nose and a big, rich and hot, fruitdriven, palate. $18 MyattsField Vineyard Perth Hills Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier 2015 ★★★ A light and simple wine with medium length of earthy red fruit characters. $26

SWEET WHITE 1 TASTED 1 AWARDED

Hoggies Australia Moscato 2017 ★★★ "A fun wine," said BEST LUE one judge. Lovely VA BUYS elderflower lift to the nose and grapey flavours with balanced sweetness. $14.99

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BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20

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Hoggies Australia Moscato 2017 "A fun wine," said one judge. Lovely elderflower lift to the nose and grapey flavours with balanced sweetness. $14.99 Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Phone: 0418 854 102 Email: gavin.hogg1952@gmail.com

Black Stump Frankland River Riesling 2016

La La Land Victoria Pinot Gris 2016

An acid-driven wine with defined zesty lime/lemon varietal fruit characters. $14.99

Powerful estery citrus bouquet with a simple fresh and clean palate showing good length of flavour and nice acidity. $18

Subdued aromas. Light florals on a long delicate palate; flavours in the citrus/apple spectrum. $18.99

Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Phone: 0418 854 102 Email: gavin.hogg1952@gmail.com

Black Stump Wines Phone: 0415 971 113 Email: tim@blackstumpwines.com

Wingara Wine Group Phone: 03 9682 5000 Email: aaldridge@wingara.com.au Web: www.deakinestate.com.au

Hoggies Estate Coonawarra Riesling 2016

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(NZ $25 & UNDER)

$20&

UNDER

BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing comprises the best wines currently available, from bigname brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins.

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TO QUALIFY 1 Wines must have first been recommended in Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. 2 Wines from designated regional tastings are eligible provided they are widely available. 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in the marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable.

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Sacred Hill Orange Label Hawkes Bay Merlot Cabernet 2016

Brygon Reserve Wines Signature Series Coonawarra Shiraz 2015

Black plummy fruit, some charry cinnamon and nutmeg oak and a silky medium bodied palate combine to give an approachable well executed savoury red. Plenty of wine for $20

Smells earthy and cigar boxlike with a peppery lift and the taste is of a melange of blackcurrants, chocolate prunes and spices. 5+ $17.99

Sacred Hill Wines Phone: +64 6 873 9893 Email: enquiries@sacredhill.com Web: www.sacredhill.com

Brygon Reserve Wines Phone: +61 419 865 556 Email: alifraserscott@hotmail.com Web: www.brygonreservewines. com.au

Longhop Mt Lofty Ranges Shiraz 2015 A huge wine with a ripe jammy fruit nose and a big rich and hot fruit-driven palate. $18 Old Plains Pty Ltd Phone: 0407 605 601 Email: oldplains@twpo.com.au Web: www.oldplains.com

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Brygon Reserve Wines Lion's Lair WA Shiraz 2015 An old fashioned style. Slightly raisined edge to the varietal fruit aromas and a full-bodied flavoursome chocolaty/berry palate. $19.99 Brygon Reserve Wines Phone: +61 419 865 556 Email: alifraserscott@hotmail.com Web: www.brygonreservewines. com.au

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BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20

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Mt Monster Limestone Coast Shiraz 2016

Organic Hill Preservative Free Organic Shiraz 2016

Lovely nose; smells of sweet blackcurrants and chocolate. Good length and density of complex meaty/earthy/chocolate/ prune flavour profile with fine soft tannins. 5+ $16.95

Pungent gamey bouquet and good weight and persistence of spicy dark berry flavours. $19.99

Morambro Creek Wines Phone: 08 8723 1065 Email: david@morambrocreek.com.au Web: www.mtmonster.com.au

Organic Hill Wines Phone: 0418 288 457 Email: tanya@organichill.com.au Web: www.organichill.com.au

Shingleback Red Knot McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016

Shingleback Red Knot Classified McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016

Powerful ripe fruit nose; slightly jammy but oaky. "Palate is light on its feet," according to one judge with nice balance and intensity of flavours. $14.95

"A brooding monster that will unlock with time," according to one judge. Masses of dark fruits with black olive-like savoury characters and light use of oak. $19 Shingleback Phone: +61 8 8323 9199 Email: cellardoor@shingleback.com.au Web: www.shingleback.com.au

Shingleback Phone: +61 8 8323 9199 Email: cellardoor@shingleback.com.au Web: www.shingleback.com.au

SEEKING DISTRIBUTORS ACROSS AUSTRALIA Ask for wine samples now Marketing support available J I R R A

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Support for wine events and dinners

For sales enquiries call Bill Mason on 0417 036 436 or alternatively email bill.mason@rwbm.net.au

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WINES WITH A SENSE O F H E R I TA G E F R O M J E I R S TAT I O N

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Orchid Original Block 12 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014

Wine for Yoga Lovers Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2015

A nose of blackberry spices and Tabac with clean sweet fruit flavours spicy oak and soft tannins. 3-5 $18

Oaky chocolaty bouquet with a dash of black pepper. Great palate structure and nice length of plum flavours with savoury elements. 5+ $16

Orchid Wine Estate Phone: 08 8410 4635 Email: jason.zhao@orchidwine.com.au

CMV Farms/Shearer's Hill Phone: 0477 003 133 Email: philippa.crawford@cmv.com.au Web: www.cmv.com.au

Olivia Coonawarra Shiraz 2013

Grancari Estate Greta's McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015

Distinct aged cedary bouquet and some lovely oak on the palate with light elegant fruit characters and soft tannin backbone. $19.99

A big full bodied shiraz that's a lovely complexity of sweet fruit prunes and chocolate with gamey notes and a peppery lift. 5+ $18

Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Phone: 0418 854 102 Email: gavin.hogg1952@gmail.com

Grancari Estate Phone: 0417 880 923 Email: enquiries@grancariwines.com.au Web: www.grancariwines.com.au

AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND

the wine & spirit Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: editor@winestate.com.au Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: lara@winestate.com.au Administration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: administration@winestate.com.au Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E-mail: production@winestate.com.au Marketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: sales@winestate.com.au Tasting Coordinator E-mail: tasting@winestate.com.au

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contact details NEW RELEASES

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Fifth Estate Wines Phone: 0419 851 269 Email: julemark@gmail.com Web: www.fifthestatewines.com.au Fox Gordon Phone: 08 8363 9389 Email: rachel@foxgordon.com.au Web: www.foxgordon.com.au Kalleske Wines Phone: 08 8563 4000 Email: wine@kalleske.com Web: www.kalleske.com Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard Hamilton Phone: 08 8323 8830 Email: info@leconfieldwines.com Web: www.leconfieldwines.com The Collective Wine Company Phone: +61 2 9955 2008 Email: t.chang@micaaustralia.com.au Web: www.thecollectivewinecompany. com.au Tomich Wines Phone: +61 8 8299 7500 Email: sales@tomich.com.au Web: www.tomichhill.com.au

RIVER REGIONS

Aldi Stores Phone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.aldi.com.au Berton Vineyards Phone: +612 6968 1600 Email: wine@bertonvineyards.com.au Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.au Trentham Estate Phone: 03 5024 8888 Email: juliac@trenthamestate.com.au Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Whistling Kite Vineyards Phone: 08 8584 9014 Email: pam@whistlingkitewines.com.au Web: www.whistlingkitewines.com.au

SHIRAZ, SYRAH & BLENDS 1847 Wines / Chateau Yaldara Phone: +61 8 8524 0207 Email: bwyld@1847wines.com Web: www.1847wines.com Aldi Stores Phone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.aldi.com.au

Warner Vineyard Phone: 03 5728 2134 Email: info@warnervineyard.com.au Web: www.warnervineyard.com.au

Bellarine Estate/ Bellarine Brewing Company Phone: 03 5259 3310 Email: info@bellarineestate.com.au Web: www.bellarineestate.com.au

NZ RECENT RELEASES

Berton Vineyards Phone: +612 6968 1600 Email: wine@bertonvineyards.com.au Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.au

Alpha Domus Phone: +64 6 879 6752 Email: joyce@alphadomus.co.nz Web: www.alphadomus.co.nz Mission Estate Winery Phone: +64 6 845 9350 Email: john@missionestate.com.au

OTAGO (NEW ZEALAND)

Bald Hills Phone: +64 3 445 3161 Email: info@baldhills.co.nz Web: www.baldhills.co.nz Domain Road Vineyard Phone: 021 224 7661 Email: wine@domainroad.co.nz Web: www.domainroad.co.nz Rockburn Wines Ltd Phone: +64 3 445 0555 Email: winery@rockburn.co.nz Web: www.rockburn.co.nz Shaky Bridge Wines Phone: +64 3 448 8436 Email: ash@shakybridge.co.nz Web: www.shakybridge.co.nz Valli Vineyards Phone: +64 (0) 21 554 837 Email: grant@valliwine.com Web: www.valliwine.com

Blue Pyrenees Estate Phone: 03 5465 1111 Email: jennifer.ganske@bluepyrenees. com.au Web: www.bluepyrenees.com.au Brash Vineyard Phone: 0427 042 767 Email: anne_chris@brashvineyard.com.au Web: www.brashvineyard.com.au Brygon Reserve Wines Phone: +61 419 865 556 Email: alifraserscott@hotmail.com Web: www.brygonreservewines.com.au d’Arenberg Pty Ltd Phone: 08 8329 4825 Email: clare@darenberg.com.au Web: www.darenberg.com.au Domaine Asmara Phone: 03 5433 6133 Email: andreas@domaineasmara.com Web: www.domaineasmara.com Grancari Estate Phone: 08 8382 4465 Email: enquiries@grancariwines.com.au Web: www.grancariwines.com.au Gumpara Wines Phone: 0419 624 559 Email: gumpara@bigpond.net.au Web: www.gumpara.blogspot.com Haselgrove Wines (Festival City Wine & Spirits) Phone: 08 8323 8706 Email: cforel@haselgrove.com.au Web: www.haselgrove.com.au

III Rings Pty Ltd Phone: 0406 537 660 Email: alan@3rings.com.au Web: www.3rings.com.au

Warburn Estate Phone: 02 6963 8300 Email: info@warburnestate.com.au Web: www.warburnestate.com.au

Kalleske Wines Phone: 08 8563 4000 Email: wine@kalleske.com Web: www.kalleske.com

Wills Domain Estate Phone: 08 9755 2327 Email: info@willsdomain.com.au Web: www.willsdomain.com.au

McLaren Vale III Associates Phone: 08 8323 7940 Email: winery@associates.com.au Web: www.mclarenvaleiiiassociates. com.au

Zonte’s Footstep Phone: 08 8383 2032 Email: info@zontesfootstep.com.au Web: www.zontesfootstep.com.au

Mollydooker Wines Phone: 08 8323 6500 Email: hr@mollydookerwines.com.au Web: www.mollydookerwines.com.au

BEST BUYS

Morambro Creek Wines Phone: 08 8723 1065 Email: david@morambrocreek.com.au Web: www.morambrocreek.com.au www.mtmonster.com.au www.jipjiprocks.com.au Orchid Wine Estate Phone: 08 8410 4635 Email: jason.zhao@orchidwine.com.au Patrick of Coonawarra Phone: 08 8737 3687 Email: sales@patrickofcoonawarra.com Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Romney Park Phone: 08 8398 0698 Email: sales@romneyparkwines.com Web: www.romneyparkwines.com.au Sabella Vineyards Phone: 08 8323 8470 Email: vineyards@sabella.com.au Web: www.sabella.com.au Sanguine Estate Phone: 0417 831 076 Email: jodi@sanguinewines.com.au Web: www.sanguinewines.com.au Schild Estate Phone: 08 8524 5560 Email: cmohr@schildestate.com.au Web: www.schildestate.com.au

Black Stump Wines Phone: 0415 971 113 Email: tim@blackstumpwines.com Brygon Reserve Wines Phone: +61 419 865 556 Email: alifraserscott@hotmail.com Web: www.brygonreservewines.com.au CMV Farms/Shearer’s Hill Phone: 0477 003 133 Email: philippa.crawford@cmv.com.au Web:www.cmv.com.au Grancari Estate Phone: 0417 880 923 Email: enquiries@grancariwines.com.au Web: www.grancariwines.com.au Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Phone: 0418 854 102 Email: gavin.hogg1952@gmail.com Morambro Creek Wines Phone: 08 8723 1065 Email: david@morambrocreek.com.au Web: www.morambrocreek.com.au www.mtmonster.com.au www.jipjiprocks.com.au Old Plains Pty Ltd Phone: 0407 605 601 Email: oldplains@twpo.com.au Web: www.oldplains.com Orchid Wine Estate Phone: 08 8410 4635 Email: jason.zhao@orchidwine.com.au

Shanahans Wines refer Prestige World Wine Pty Ltd Phone: 08 8563 0555 Email: john@shanahanswines.com.au Web: www.shanahanswines.com.au

Organic Hill Wines Phone: 0418 288 457 Email: tanya@organichill.com.au Web: www.organichill.com.au

Taltarni Vineyards Phone: 03 5459 7915 Email: info@taltarni.com.au Web: www.taltarni.com.au

Sacred Hill Wines Phone: +64 6 873 9893 Email: enquiries@sacredhill.com Web: www.sacredhill.com

Tenafeate Creek Wines Phone: 08 8280 7715 Email: enquiries@tenafeatecreekwines. com Web: www.tenafeatecreekwines.com

Shingleback Phone: +61 8 8323 9199 Email: cellardoor@shingleback.com.au Web: www.shingleback.com.au

The ARH Australian Wine Company Pty Ltd Phone: 0406 537 660 Email: info@paringa.net Web: www.paringa.net

Wingara Wine Group Phone: 03 9682 5000 Email: aaldridge@wingara.com.au Web: www.deakinestate.com.au

Villa Maria Estate Ltd Phone: +64 9 255 1754 Email: enquiries@villamaria.co.nz Web: www.villamaria.co.nz

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contact details

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SEMILLON & BLENDS

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au

1847 Wines / Chateau Yaldara Phone: +61 8 8524 0207 Email: bwyld@1847wines.com Web: www.1847wines.com Kaimira Ventures Phone: 03 542 3491 Email: Info@kaimirawines.com Murray Street Vineyards Phone: 08 8562 8373 Email: wine@murraystreet.com.au Web: www.murraystreet.com.au Tyrrell’s Vineyards Pty Ltd Phone: 02 4993 7000 Email: Joanna.Robinson@tyrrells.com.au Web: www.tyrrells.com.au

YARRA VALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIA Hirsch Hill Estate Phone: 1300 877 781 Email: info@hirschhill.com Web: www.hirschhill.com Kings of Kangaroo Ground Phone: 03 9712 0666 Email: ken@kkg.com.au Web: www.kkg.com.au Oakdene Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 03 5256 3886 Email: info@oakdene.com.au Web: www.oakdene.com.au Rob Dolan Wines Phone: 03 98765885 Email: enquiries@robdolanwines.com.au Web: robdolanwines.com.au Scotchmans Hill Pty Ltd Phone: 03 5251 3176 Email: info@scotchmans.com.au Web: www.scotchmans.com.au Seville Estate Phone: 03 5964 2622 Email: wine@sevilleestate.com.au Web: www.sevilleestate.com.au Yarravale Wines Phone: 03 9735 1819 Email: domenic@yarravalewines.com.au Web: www.yarravalewines.com.au

GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Tel: 08 8357 9277 www.winestate.com.au 128

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MEMBER EVENTS November 2017

QUEENSTOWN NZ - Wine of the Year Awards Lunch Thursday 16 November 2017 - Gantleys of Queenstown, NZ 12 noon - 3pm - Tickets available now Contact Peter Jackson: sales@winestate.com.au HONG KONG - Winestate Wines of Australia HK Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, HONG KONG 9-11 November 2017 Details at: www.hktdc.com HONG KONG - Winestate Corporate Tasting Event November 9-10 2017 Email: Peter Jackson: sales@winestate.com.au ADELAIDE - Wine of the Year Awards Friday 24 November 2017 - Adelaide Convention Centre 1pm – 3pm - Trade Only & By Invitation Invitations will be sent September 2017

JANUARY 2018 PERTH - 2018 Winestate Best of the West & Wine of the Year Tasting Friday 19 January 2018 - 6pm – 8.30pm Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel, Perth, Western Australia (Tickets available late 2017 - Subscribers receive two complementary tickets upon request)

APRIL 2018 Cabernet & Bordeaux Night National Wine Centre, Adelaide Friday 6 April, 2018 (6 - 8.30pm) Tickets available early 2018 Vinitaly 2018 - Veronafiere, Verona, Italy 15-18 April, 2018 Details at www.vinitaly.com/en Email Peter Jackson: sales@winestate.com.au

MAY 2018 Mainfreight International Worlds Greatest Shiraz Challenge XIII National Wine Centre, Adelaide Friday 25 May, 2018 (6 - 8.30pm) Tickets available early 2018

SEPTEMBER 2018 Winestate Wine of the Year 2018 Subscriber Tasting National Wine Centre, Adelaide Saturday 1 September 2018 12.00 noon – 2.30pm Tickets available mid 2018

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JOIN US TODAY! By becoming a Winestate Subscriber you will receive complimentary tickets to our events!

after taste ELISABETH KING

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SOOTHING THE BURN

YOUR lifestyle is the envy of friends and work colleagues on social media. Regular lunches at name restaurants, business trips to destinations near and far, and toasting career successes with the finest champagne and whiskies. You’ve earned the trappings of the good life but there’s a price to pay even when you’re not picking up the tab. I relearned this fact of life recently when I had to schedule three multi-course restaurant meals in as many days. The accumulated menu of rich sauces, ample servings of meat, two mounds of hummus and matching wines seemed to stay in my stomach long after they should have moved on, so to speak. I am not complaining but made a firm pledge to space out such enjoyable blow-outs in the future. Over 20 per cent of people suffer from chronic indigestion and many more suffer sleepless nights following a corporate or celebratory dinner. No one worries about a mild volley of burps but strong cramps can feel more serious than the aftereffects of a Thai red curry and several bottles of craft beer. Most of us have experienced the four most common symptoms of indigestion feeling sick, dyspepsia (twinges at the top of the abdomen), heartburn (fiery pains behind the breastbone) and belching more often than an etiquette-observant Bedouin. The worst thing about multiple bouts of indigestion, though, is the worry that the problem is linked to something more grim. Fear of a more serious health problem is the biggest cause of anxiety when anyone turns up at their GP’s office asking for an endoscopy test, where a tube is eased down the throat into the stomach for a thorough examination. But if there’s no dramatic weight loss, excessive vomiting even after small meals or problems swallowing, the problem is probably linked to self-indulgence. Indigestion isn’t also called heartburn for nothing. The brain finds it tough to identify whether a pain in the chest is caused by a heart attack or difficulty coping with a rich meal washed down by too much alcohol. A heart attack usually starts as a pressure or pain on the left-hand side of the chest, spreading through the

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neck and arm. Other symptoms include shortness of breath and sudden sweating. Indigestion begins in the upper abdomen and the discomfort intensifies behind the breastbone. If it onsets when you are in bed, indigestion feels even worse because acid in the stomach refluxes into the oesophagus. Time to stagger to the bathroom for a swig or two of a popular antacid such as Mylanta or Gaviscon. Stress and too much of a good time often leads to headaches, but if you take too many analgesics, especially ibuprofen, you could be doing more harm than good. Chronic indigestion can also be caused by inflammation of the oesophagus, stomach or upper gastro-intestinal tract. Reduce your pill-popping habit to see if the strategy makes any difference.

If you want to continue to enjoy the good life, the best way forward is to make smarter choices and be picky with indulgences. Over 60 per cent of people suffer from indigestion because their oesophagus and stomach are hyper-sensitive. Known as functional dyspepsia, the problem can be treated with acid suppressant therapies which also help to keep that dreaded sour taste out of your mouth. It’s a tradition in many countries, including Australia, the US and Germany, to stoke up on a high-fat meal to “soak up”excess alcohol. Excessive burping and a persistent pain one to two hours after consuming a fry-up may be gallstones, rather than the stomach rebelling against a greasy overload. If you just felt a shudder after reading that sentence, an ultrasound will give you the all clear or not. Should you change your lifestyle? The answer is yes if you’re overweight and feeling “under the weather” has become a default position. But if you want to continue

to enjoy the good life, the best way forward is to make smarter choices and be picky with indulgences. The worst mistake most people make before a lavish meal is to “get into training” by skipping a meal. Don’t. If you don’t eat when you are hungry, you feel tired and cranky, and too full afterwards because of the sudden onslaught to your digestive system. The days are long gone when it was impossible to make a healthy choice and still enjoy a great restaurant meal. Look for entrees like duck consomme - packed with flavour and fat-free. More fish dishes are on offer in fine dining restaurants as many customers prefer not to overload their stomachs. It’s also better to indulge in an expertly-made dessert during a business lunch, rather than reach for a packet of biscuits when you’re hunched over the computer working later in the day. We all know that eating large meals close to bedtime, too much coffee and alcohol are indigestion triggers. But even those with cast-iron constitutions come unstuck if they don’t take their time when eating. Eating meals prison canteen-fast or on the run increases the risk of indigestion because it makes you swallow too much air. This isn’t your last meal so slow down. There’s no point holding back on highkilojoule dishes if you or a waiter constantly replenishes your glass during a meal. Stay hydrated, though. Dehydration affects mood and digestion. Alternate beer, whisky and wine with water. Also be aware that spirits with a higher alcohol component and carbonated drinks such as champagne are absorbed more quickly by the body, which is why you become more light-headed faster when both are flowing freely. Enjoying the good things of life shouldn’t be an obstacle course and it won’t be if you just stick to a few simple rules.

It’s time to celebrate! Bubbles abound in our sparkling and champagne tasting but if red’s more your thing there’s delicious pinot noir to be had and the regions of Limestone Coast, North-East Victoria, Hunter Valley and Hawke’s Bay (NZ).

W I N E S TAT E September/October 2017

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