Old Clothes New Looks STAGE 2
Nottingham Trent University School of Art & Design Institute of Vocational Education – Hong Kong
ba
fd3
2018/19
Module: Fashion Concepts and Innovation Project
IVE
Module reference: FASH30006 Module Leader: Cassandra Ng
Fashion Concepts and Innovation Project Declaration This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue, I recognise the right and duty of the Board of Examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulation on assessment contained in its handbook. I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project.
Signed ………
………….……(YUNG YEE TUNG)
Date …………10th March,2019…………………………………………………… (Word count: 4039 )
Old Clothes, New Looks Revive Second�Hand Fashion In Hong Kong
STAGE 2
Yung Yee Tung, Iris
CONTENTS
Introduction Research objectives Research methods
Literature Review A history of Secondhand clothing Secondhand Clothing in Hong Kong
History and Identity of secondhand Consumption Behaviour Upcycling, Reuse and Recycle
Primary Research Consumers perception and purchase intentions Environmental Aspect Price Need for Uniqueness SecondHand Clothing to Upcycling Consumers
Summarize
Preview of the Future stage References Bibliography Appendices
Everyone can do simple things to make a difference, and every little bit really does count. Stella McCartney
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INTRODUCTION In recently, “Sustainability� has grown a buzzword in the fashion world. However, it doesn't have an accurate translation for this term due to the fashion industry is lack of environmental s t a n d a rd s a n d c a u s e c o n f u s i o n t o t h e s o c i e t y ( G o rd o n and Hill, 2015). The argument simply encircling the mass production of garments, Animal ethics and labour issue. The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industry in the world (Egan 2011; BSR 2012; Henninger et al. 2016). Yet the problem of how to prolong the life of clothes is still overlooked. The second-hand industry is becoming one of the biggest growing consumer segments. There is a boom in buying second-hand clothes around the world. Brooks (2015) stated that clothing is representing that person role and identity in society. Furthermore, Palmer and Clark (2005) say that the citizens believed that old garments carry the previous owner spirit in East Asian cultures. Hence, The public holds a prejudice against second-hand clothes and think it is full of bacteria, old, outdated and label as only for poor people. Thus, Death and disease are constantly linked among used clothes due to a warning of dressing pre-owned clothes without laundry can easily be exposed to serious disease like scabies, skin infections, ringworms and tuberculosis (Lee, 2003: xxiii). As a matter of fact, most of the second-hand clothes are sanitized and unused. In a throwaway society, When our clothes get ragged and stained, we simply throwing it in the bin or donating it to charity before going to buy the new one from the high-street. The paper will discuss the relevance of second�hand clothes, repositioning and giving used clothing a second life by upcycling them.
02
RESEA OBJEC
In recently, “Sustainability” has grown a buzzword in the fashion For the purposes of this research, this study will redound to the benefit of society considering that sustainability plays a significant role in the fashion industry today, it has been necessary to identify the enigma for secondhand clothing market in Hong Kong.
Furthermore, The motivation behind this project is to change and educate the consumption behaviour of the consumer and prejudice of used clothes. Additionally, to extend the life cycle of used clothing through upcycling and revive secondhand fashion in hong kong and achieving social and environmental change throughout fashion reuse or upcycling by remodelling and Reconstructing of second-hand. Also, To accommodate the public’s consumption habit to act green and reduce the load on the landfill.
ARCH CTIVES
This research has a multifaceted approach, involving 3 methods of enquiry. Firstly a literature review has been conducted, which draws on secondary published data sources and studies secondhand clothing and upcycling from different aspects. Secondly, qualitative research has been conducted, which a 30 minutes in-depth interview on 2 fashion industry practitioners regarding the to field. Lastly, quantitative research has been conducted, an 4 minutes face to face interview with 8 secondhand clothing consumer regarding consumption and their perspective on used clothes.
RESE
METH
03 EARCH
HODS
LITER
REV
03 RATURE
VIEW
Figure 1.1 Resin Market Before and Now
Palmer and Clark (2005, p. 2) stated that the roots of Secondhand clothing can be traced back to as early as medieval times. The practice of re-wearing secondhand clothes has subsisted for a long time. Not everyone can afford new clothing because of their exorbitant cost back in the old days. The used clothes were passed from generation to generation like a legacy or gifted to the serfs, local poor and the household workers from different layers of society. The luxurious garments were resold due to societal norms or formal law, the servants have forbidden to re-worn the same clothing as alike as the aristocratic masters. In the middle of the nineteenth century, second-hand clothing was losing its appeal due to prĂŞt-a-porter ( Rickman, 2017) and became an export product to African countries.
In World War II, the secondhand market like the Resin market in Ercolano (Italy) rising in Europe by selling stolen or abandoned items and clothes from US soldiers. The demand for second-hand items declined due to the industrialisation of the textile industry (Ethitude, 2017). Fashion started to grow swiftly, the need for having attire went progressively to having too much of it due to the costs of production were decreasing ( S h e l l , n . d . ) . T h e re f o re , t h e clothes were instantly replaced or discarded and the used clothes were donated to the developing countries.
A HISTORY OF SECONDHAND CLOTHING
SECONDHAND CLOTHING IN HONG KONG
HISTORY AND IDENTITY OF SECONDHAND
Clark (2005, p. 155) stated that used clothing only allowed to wear by the poverty and necessity in hong kong before the 1990s. Despite facing a tough time for the economy, the domestic Chinese society still rejects to wear used garment ascribed to the superstition associated with the dead. Hong Kong was the manufacturing and exporting clothing city to the west in the 1950s. Apart from factory discards, clothes were not available for the citizen and couldn't afford them. Many immigrants who lived in hong kong suffered economic hardship, secondhand clothes were given to wear as something new to preserve their social status and appearances. According to Kratz et al. (1998), fashion can be represented as a cultural phenomenon because it involves meaning and symbol, and is, therefore, a direct, visual, instantaneous mode of communication. Bennett (2005) stated that the styled body is a representative of the person which part of the world they came from, personality, taste, preference, educational fulfilment, economic status and as the bridge of itself to society. According to Roche (2000: 193), It is about that personal identity, individual and as is illustrated. As the economic boom due to the development of the clothing industry in the 1960s, the demand for secondhand clothing decreased because of the improvement of living standard. Furthermore, western-style attire was more accessible and affordable to society. In the 1980s, Hong Kong people have the urge to demonstrate their modernity and fashionability though purchasing the latest style from notable fashion brand like Versace or Prada because of the authenticity and identity. According to Abbas (1997), Regarding the colonial context in Hong Kong, global fashion brands took a particular cultural significance by communicated through clothing. Hence, in the 1970s to 1980s secondhand attire was viewed as socially inappropriate, less and fewer people have the need for used clothes in Hong Kong.
In the 1990s, Japanese youth culture was influencing the fashion conscious of the young and marked as a major cultural transformation and gain a new status for secondhand fashion ( Clark, 2005). It becoming more acceptable and popular to the customer due to the global fashion trend obsession with nostalgia and authenticity. According to Cervellon et al. (2012), with the emerged growing trend of vintage fashion in Western cultures a n d o t h e r d e v e l o p i n g c o u n t r i e s . I n C h i n a w h e re customer loathes wearing used clothes have started to accept and opened a variety of specialised secondhand stores. Before, the thrift shop and charity shop was not conventional in hong kong, unlike United State or Britain. The only two international charities that operating secondhand fashion was the Salvation Army and Oxfam. Man and earth were one of the earliest fashionable secondhand stores in the mid1990s. it is a niche market for the student and avantgarde. More shop like this Beatnik, Recur or Midwest ( s t i l l e x i s t e d ) w e re o p e n i n t h e f e w n e x t y e a r s .
Figure 2.1 Man and Earth shop front, western district, Hong Kong Island, Photographed in the mid-1990s. Photographed by Teresa Ho.
In a throwaway society and the world of mass consumption, clothes and other consumable are quickly discarded. In the last years, more garments have used hardly several times before getting tossed away and the demand for replacement of clothing has increased tremendously (Birtwistle and Moore, 2007). A c c o r d i n g to Morgan and Birtwistle (2009) argued that clothing being produce from third countries with a lower cost led to prices reductions was the reason behind it. Furthermore, Fast Fashion retailer encourages the act of thinks less, buy more which led to the frequency of clothing purchase and manufacturing clothing to shorten product life cycle. Hence, This behaviour has increased environmental impact. Consumers started to realise how overconsumption can lead to negative impacts on the environment and society. As a perspective of the clothing consumption can be related to the issue of sustainability, it means that Customers feel disposing of used attire was a responsibility and contributions to sustainable consumption (Connell and Kozar, 2014: 44). Roux and Korchia (2006) stated that consumers viewed that purchase second-hand clothes can slow down the production and selling of unnecessary goods. According to Green Match online survey about the importance of sustainability to Gen Z consumers, it is shown that 72 per cent of Gen Z would purchase on sustainable or ethical goods. Furthermore, Gen Z consumers aren't concerned with brand loyalty and their loyalty lies more within values of the product, unlike millennial predecessors. According to Guiot and Roux (2010), The secondhand consumption was influenced by the change of the society’s value from time to time, it was guided by financial, ethical and hedonic principles. Apart from those factors, the major factors against secondhand clothes purchase were associated to personal values, store characteristics and the risk of disease (Roux, 2006; Yan, Bae and Shu, 2015; Kristoffersson, 2015 and Mitchell and Montgomery, 2010).
CONSUMPTION
BEHAVIOUR
UPCYCLING, REUSE AND RECYCLE
Figure 2.2 “ layout 3” Converting man’s suit to a woman’s suit. From the book of Make Do for victory, The Spool Company, 1942. Extracted from SUSTAINABLE FASHION Past, Present, and Future
Along with time vicissitudes, the customer is more concerned about the impact of clothing production on wellness, the environment with the emergence of Eco-Fashion (Cervellon et al., 2010; Cervellon and Carey, 2011; Butler and Francis, 1997). Hence, the behaviour of clothing disposal was influenced by the consumer's awareness of the environment (Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009). Consumers thought that the most effective ways to reduce waste and impact on the environment were re-use and recycling the clothes (Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2010). But according to Oxfam, in the 2016-2017 the donations to its stores only increased by 2% and only 10% to 20% of Used clothes are really sold through donation shops. Furthermore, according to The True Cost, Only 10% of clothing donated to charities to recycled or reused and the other 90% ends up in the landfill. On the contrary, Upcycling is often recognised as one of the most sustainable practices within the contemporary fashion industry, as it eliminates the need for newly manufactured goods and functions as a distinctive alternative to mass produced fashions (Farley Gordon and Hill, 2015, p.20). Furthermore, According to Bridgens, Powell, Farmer, Walsh, Reed, Royapoor, Gosling, Hall, and Heidrich (2018), the practice of Upcycling is affected by the social, economic and political environment of the geographical contexts. Upcycling originated in the 1990s which means to transform products into higher quality or value than the original products (Bridgens, Powell, Farmer, Walsh, Reed, Royapoor, Gosling, Hall, and Heidrich, 2018). The upcycling activities were strongly supported by governments in World War II due to the limited resources where Make Do and Mend booklet was released by the Board of Trade in the United Kingdom as a governmental campaign (Gordon and Hill, 2015). Tips were given to women on how to renovate existing garment, extending the clothing life cycle and reusing yarn by unpicking knit garments. In the united states, The Spool Cotton Company publish a similar booklet in 1942, Make and Mend for Victory( Figure 2.2 ), focused on alterations and mending.
Today's, the philosophy and techniques of Make Do and Mend is often used by the designer who upcycles attire. Moreover, Pettersen (2013) explains that consumer behaviour can be changed to a more sustainable direction through the design. RE; CODE was a Korean upcycling brand t h at was launc he d in Marc h 2 0 1 2 . The brand refashions Secondhand militar y uniforms, uniforms, tents, parachutes and previous old stock into new clothes. Their clothes designed through deconstruction and reassemble, and each design only produces no more than ten pieces, each piece of clothing is tagged, printed a number of several pieces, design materials. In Hong Kong, PAUSE & PONDER is an ecofashion brand that provides used clothing upcycling and alteration to the customer. According to the FAQ of Green Ladies, is the first social eco-enterprise operated by the consignment model in hong kong. Green Ladies working as an eco-platforms to highlight the value inside secondhand fashion and sell trend y items at a reasonable price to fully utilize resources in the society to support eco-friendly habits and change the general public’s aspect towards secondhand fashion. For the unsold items, the Green Ladies will hold a Charity sale and collaboration with the upcycling designer to extend the life cycle of the used garment. For example, Green Ladies partner with the Hong Kong Design Institute students try to take the textile waste which throwaway and repurposing it into the necklace, then sell it at Green Ladies Shop. The accessories are made by the rehabilitation members, which further enhance the meaning.
PRIMARY
RESEARCH
In order to gain a more understanding of Hong Kong consumer's purchase intentions and knowledge towards second-hand clothes. I have interviewed 8 participants outside of the secondhand clothing store in two locations, MEE & GEE in Mong Kok and GREEN LADIES in Wan Chai. In both genders, male and female of different age groups from age 20 to 60, to be represented in the study in order to analyse the patterns, differences and similarities between genders. Additionally, I have interviewed 2 fashion industry practitioners, which is the upcycling designer of PAUSE & PONDER and MIDWEST.
CONSUMERS PERCEPTION AND PURCHASE INTENTIONS
I order to gain a more understanding of Hong Kong Among the eight interviewed the most common words and associations mentioned regarding second-hand clothing were charity, cheap, reuse, trendy, vintage style, and old clothes. MEE & GEE and MIDWEST were the most mentioned second-hand stores among the age 20s to mid 30s participants. Secondhand shop like GREEN LADIES, THE SALVATION ARMY, OXFAM has mentioned by the age 40s to 60s participants. Six out of eight participants have purchase secondhand clothing before. The other two participants were just browsing around the store. Besite, half of the participants will purchase secondhand items via an online platform like the Instagram store, Tabao and Carousell. Furthermore, three participants have regularly visited a secondhand store within a week or two, two participants visited a secondhand store in two to three months, two participants visited a secondhand store around six months and the last participants out of eight visited a secondhand store the first time due to curiosity. In order to comprehend the participant's view of secondhand attire, I have asked questions related to environmental concerns, hygiene and acceptance. Seven out of eight participants would not mind wearing secondhand clothes and hygiene is not a concern because they are aware most of the secondhand garment was sanitized, also, the participants will clean before use. Hence, The prejudice and the social norms against second-hand clothes changes along with time vicissitudes. All participants have purchased new clothes within one to two months. In order to understand the perception and purchase intentions of the participants, I have asked participants about their buying preference regreding to price, style, materials and brand. The age the 20s to mid-30s chosen the style as their first priority, then the sequence was followed by price, brand and materials. The age the 40s to 60s chosen the price as their first priority, then the sequence was followed by materials, style and brand.
Among the participants, the environmental concerns were not the reason they purchase secondhand clothing and goods, because six out of eight participants mentioned that low-priced and style was the main reason purchase secondhand goods. Hence, sustainable consumption was not their intention. On the contrary, All the participants aware the significance of having an eco-friendly behaviour regarding the disposal of clothes, donated to charity, not throwing away and reuse the cloth for a different purpose. this result shows that it is not necessarily to m a k e a n ec o - f ri e n d l y s t a t e m e n t b y p u rc h a s ing s e c o nd- hand clo t he s . According to Morgan and Birtwistle’s (2009) research to young fashion consumer’s disposable habits. it shows that although young fashion consumers are interested in the practice of recycling and sustainable consumption, the habits of young consumers are not eco-friendly. Primary Research also shows that although young participants purchase secondhand is an act of sustainability without knowing it, yet, their consumption through an online platform was not eco-friendly. Five out of eight participants from age the 20s to late 20s often purchase goods from the online store. Apart from overconsumption impact on the environment due to sale discount, each online purchase was involved with logistics and the operation of express and same-day deliveries make the online shopping less eco-friendly as each online purchase has its own particular carbon footprint.
ENVIRONMENTAL
ASPECT
According to the in-depth interview with Alice Wong, founder of Eco Fashion brand PAUSE & PONDER stated that whether is purchase secondhand clothing, recycling, reuse, upcycling, the practice of eco-friendly habits was slower than other countries, like the United Kingdom or the United States, to them it is a lifestyle and attitude. she added that although some of Hong Kong consumer starting to realise the overconsumption impact on the environment and began to pay attention to the environment news or issue to change their habit. In addition, the upcycling designer of MIDWEST Jacky stated that vintage style, secondhand clothing trend and the quality of materials was the main purchase reason of the customer, instead of environmental concerns. Only two of eight interviewees have knowledge of fashion and upcycling, one of them is a fashion designer. Hence, it shows that hong kong is still lack of awareness in environmental protection in many ways. In hong kong context, Hong Kong secondhand consumer purchase motivation was different from Guiot and Roux mentioned.
Escaping Of The Conventional Channels
Critical Motivations
Ethical Consciousness
Environmental Concerns
Figure 3.1 Extract of Motivational factors towards second-hand shopping. Source: Adapted from Guiot and Roux, 2010, p. 360
PRICE
Fair Price
Economic Motivations
Bargain Hunt
Price Consciousness
Figure 3.2 Extract of Motivational factors towards second-hand shopping. Source: Adapted from Guiot and Roux, 2010, p. 360
Among the participants, Economic motivations were one of the important factors to the participants after styling. According to Azevedo et al. (2009) regarding the factors of clothes purchasing, it was divided into five categories, it was physiological, social-cultural, personal, psychological and rational factors. Also, Dehghani and Tumer (2015) stated that buying behaviours are changeable due to external and internal consideration, price, quality and value. Hence, Cheap and fair prices were the factors that participants seek in second-hand clothing stores. Furthermore, Three of the participant's (Sam, 20; Queenie, 22 and JJ, 22 ) said that second-hand clothing stores offer a cheaper price and better quality clothing compared with traditional clothing stores and online clothing stores, Tabao. Besides, One of the participants Mia, 35, unemployed mentioned that secondhand clothing store was for those who don’t have a strong financial condition since it is cheap. Respondents purchase secondhand clothing reason as related as Guiot and Roux (2010) theory of economic motivations regarding the motivational factors for secondhand shopping.
NEED FOR UNIQUENESS Among the participants, Three out of eight respondents Sam, 20; Queenie, 22 and JJ, 22 mentions that the style of the secondhand clothing was the reason they choose to purchase beside, the price. Sam, 20 further explained why he enjoys hunting apparel in the secondhand store. He found that it is a thrilling adventure when he and his friend discover a style that they really like and something more classical and unique clothes unlike the other people usually wear. Furthermore, Queenie, 22 said that it can express her the individual differentiates from others via the purchase and use of clothing than mainstream fashion. JJ, 22 mentions that the element of nostalgia contained in secondhand clothing has been one of the factors why he purchases of secondhand pieces and experiences the period which he had not lived when he wears the clothes.
According to Holak and Havlena (1992) supported that, the participants in the study were able to experience nostalgic feelings where they had not lived for that time period. The result reflected that other than fun and enjoyment, avoiding similarity and the nostalgic was the main reason the participants purchasing used clothing, tries to re-establish his/her individual identity and social interaction by purchase used products. In order to stand out from others, the consumer is trying to compare their uniqueness with other individuals or groups at the social environment to determine his/her self-perceived level of uniqueness according to Jordaan and Simpson (2006). In order to counter consistency, the participants purchase used clothing to differentiates himself/herself from others to differs the general consumer norms through the unpopular choice. Respondents purchase secondhand clothing reason as related as Guiot and Roux (2010) theory of hedonic motivations regarding the motivational factors for secondhand shopping.
Search For Unique Pieces
Fun And Enjoyment
Hedonic Motivations
Fashionability
Nostalgia
Social Interaction
Treasure Hunting Figure 3.3 Extract of Motivational factors towards second-hand shopping. Source: Adapted from Guiot and Roux, 2010, p. 360
Alice Wong pointed out that the customer who purchases PAUSE & PONDER upcycling and alteration services were mainly age 30s or above. The income level, knowledge and environmental concerns were higher than the 20s. In this age group, the habit of impulsive buying and discard clothes were lower. The used clothes that refashion by Alice hold a special meaning or is an item that customer really treasure, yet broken. She added that the 20s group are not that interested in upcycling due to fast fashion culture and Online store.
On the contrary, the upcycling designer of MIDWEST Jacky argued that the age group 20s to 30s were the main buyer for the upcycling collection. Seven out of eight participants would purchase the product that upcycling from secondhand clothing base on the Price and style Only one participant would not buy due to the risk of contamination and utilitarian barriers as Guiot and Roux mentioned at the moderating factors towards second-hand shopping. To sum up, hygiene and social norms is not the main problem to affect customer to purchase secondhand clothes these days. The shape, design, quality and colour of the clothing itself was the main reason that customer purchase that item.
Figure 3.4 Alice wong refashioning old jeans into Denim jackets Source: Pause & Ponder Facebook
Figure 3.5 Midwest refashioning secondh Denim jackets Source: Midwest Instagram
SECONDHAND CLOTHING TO UPCYCLING CONSUMERS
hand jeans into bag and
Risk Of Contamination
Utilitarian Barriers
Figure 3.6 Extract of Moderating factors towards second-hand shopping. Source: Adapted from Guiot and Roux, 2010, p. 360
Personality Aspects
Hygienic
Size
Price cost-benefit
Fashionably
Quality
In recent years, Secondhand clothing is currently trending among Hong Kong. There is an increasing shift from mass consumption to second-hand. Overall, the consumer portrays an important role in the environment and society. The aim of this study was to raise awareness of the impacts of clothes, lifecycle, promoting the benefits of reuse secondhand and upcycling.
SUMMARIZE
Through this research shows that hong kong still has a long way to be a green City. Consumer attitudes towards Green fashion regarding Secondhand clothing and consumption need to improve. Also, the government and society have an important role to play on educating consumers. Furthermore, it is important to change the perspective of the consumer and ensure that they can find nice items in the secondhand store. Besides, the research shows that the shape, design, quality, colour and price of the clothing is affecting the consumer purchase intention. Hence, the making of the upcycling secondhand product needs to consider these kinds of element.
Preview of the Future stage
The findings of this research showed the differences in consumer perspective and their purchase intentions and consumption based on different age groups, gender and occupation towards second-hand clothes, in the future stage will be focusing on upcycling secondhand clothing and more in-depth interview with other upcycling industry practitioners the difficulties and aspect on upcycling business. Further studies on upcycling in order to explore the topic.
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11. Appendice Appendix 1 Interview question 1. What is your name? 2. What is your age? 3. What is your occupation? 4. Have you brought Secondhand clothing before? If not, Why? 5. Do you accept wearing Secondhand clothing? why 6. What is your view on Secondhand clothing? 7. Do you know any Secondhand clothing store in Hong Kong? 8. How do you handle unwanted clothes? 9. Have you ever hear of sustainability fashion? 10. Do you know what is upcycling? 11. will you purchase upcycling clothing that made by Secondhand clothing? Why? 12 Have you purchase clothing from online platform before? 13. what online platform you usually shop for? Why? 14. how often do you purchase new clothes? why?
Appendice Appendix 1 Interview question 1. What is your name? 2. What is your age? 3. What is your occupation? 4. Have you brought Secondhand clothing before? If not, Why? 5. Do you accept wearing Secondhand clothing? why 6. What is your view on Secondhand clothing? 7. Do you know any Secondhand clothing store in Hong Kong? 8. How do you handle unwanted clothes? 9. Have you ever hear of sustainability fashion? 10. Do you know what is upcycling? 11. will you purchase upcycling clothing that made by Secondhand clothing? Why? 12 Have you purchase clothing from online platform before? 13. what online platform you usually shop for? Why? 14. how often do you purchase new clothes? why? 15. where do you usually shop for? 16. Which is you fist priority when you purchase new clothes: Style, materials, price, brand? (place in order from 1 to 4 ) Appendix 2 The Participants
Appendix 3 Motivational factors towards second-hand shopping