How 21st century’s UK Apparel sizing and fashion model’s identity promote diversity in South Korean society
This dissertation is submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Bachelor of Arts in Fashion Marketing
Yunjin Lee 201064152 The School of Design, University of Leeds Date of Submission: 14th March 2019
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Declaration of Academic Integrity Student Name: Yunjin Lee Programme of Study: BA Fashion Marketing Year of Study: 2018/19 Module Title: Independent Study: Dissertation. Module Code: DESN 3660 Supervisor: Maria Logkizidou For individual pieces of work I promise that in the attached submission I have not presented or attempted to present anyone else’s work as my own except where I have explicitly so indicated. I understand that to do so would mean that I had committed plagiarism, the University’s definition of which is published. I know that if I commit plagiarism I can be expelled from the University and that it is my responsibility to be aware of the University’s regulations on plagiarism and their importance. I reconfirm my consent to the University copying and distributing any or all of my work in any form and using third parties (who may be based outside the EU/EEA) to monitor breaches of regulations, to verify whether my work contains plagiarized material, and for quality assurance purposes. I confirm that I have declared, in writing with support evidence, all mitigating circumstances to the Module Manager and the School General Office that may be relevant to the assessment of this piece of work and that I wish to have taken into account. I am aware of the schools policy on mitigation and procedures for the submission of statements and evidence of mitigation. I am aware of the penalties imposed for the late submission of coursework.
Signature:………………………………….. Date:………14/03/2019……………
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Abstract This research attempts to define the relationship between the cultural influences of the different two representative demographics: The United Kingdom and South Korea. The United Kingdom is one of the most representative countries among the European countries with their ‘European’ multi-cultures and as one of the capital cities of the international Fashion Week position. The Republic of South Korea, except for the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (North Korea), is where nowadays growing substantial nation among the Asian countries as a homogenous ethnic group. Between these two different nations with different cultural backgrounds, what made the co-cultural connection is due to several inferences, from the communicative technological development, globalisation and the group's blend. As the United Kingdom is an international and multi-cultural country, homogenous South Korea will be affected to be open to the diversity by encountering various personages if they get accessed to British culture. Along with the S-O-R model to examine how the changed environmental stimuli have influenced the different demographic with a different cultural background under its experiences that eventually led to a shifted behavioural outcome to have a more flexible mind to the minority. The research is providing the result by which quantitative interview between Korean people has stayed in the UK and Korean who has never been to the UK. The results through the differences between the cultural environment and of influence have revealed as the community’s first-hand experiences make further alterations on their psychology and the mindset.
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Content Page Chapter 1. Introduction 1.1. Research Aims 1.2. Research Objectives Chapter 2. Literature Review 2.1. Fashion and Cultural studies 2.2. Cultural Identities approaching to Fashion 2.2-1. Korean Society under interdependency and collectivism 2.2-2. Multicultural Britain whose individualistic tendencies have contributed Chapter 3. The Way of Adopting New Trend and Procurement in the United Kingdom 3.1. Apparel Sizing and it’s models 3.2. From the magazine cover page to the mainstream advertisement 3.3. Brand cooperating with cultural and racial diversity 3.4. Ageing is not a limitation of value 3.5. The larger meaning of self-expression Chapter 4. Theoretical background and the theological research framework 4.1. National culture on individualistic versus collectivistic culture 4.2. Social comparison within the situation 4.3. Research theological frame Figures Chapter 5. Methodology 5.1. Selection of study participants 5.2. Data collection and analysis 5.3. Reliability of research Chapter 6. Results and discussion 6.1. The contrary attitude towards restraint from the social cue 4
6.2. Understanding of diversity 6.3. Authorising the diversity into the personal life Chapter 7. Conclusion 7.1. Limitations and implication for Future Research 7.2. Final conclusion Appendixes Appendix 1. Group A and Group B questionnaires Appendix 2. Response from the participants: group A Appendix 3. Response from the participants: group B Appendix 4. Participant consent form templates References Figure reference list
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Chapter 1. Introduction People in different cultures have a remarkably different view on self, on others, and other interdependencies. More particularly, this prototypical views below the culture can be divided into two regions: Western regions and the non-western regions. Markus and Kitayama (1991) delined that people in West contain an independent opinion of the selfemphasising the separateness, internal characteristics, and uniqueness of individuals while many non-Western peoples exist within an interdependent image of self-stressing connectedness, social and relational context. These differences became the basis of determining the independent or interdependent self of various individuals to have cognition, emotion, and motivation in every circumstance. Each of these individual’s dependency tendency consequently symbolised the cultural differences in supporting individuals’ behavioural conditions. Along with the theory of different culture has structured within individual difference variables, clothing, as one of the most apparent figures for identifying characters of itself, correlate with the associating cultural backgrounds. Clothing contains a broad meaning of being itself by giving a step of constructing their identities as part of one's life. Likewise, it decides that every single person's intentional selections illustrate their circumstances, conditions, characters and sometimes the desires. In terms of fashion within the cultural context, Christopher (2014), a professor in cultural and historical studies, described style now occupies the centre ground in the popular understanding of modern culture. Hence, fashion involves in-depth characteristic of particular circumstances oneself under each influencing on a broader way of expressing attire, and its choices and tendencies can be formed up by a combination of the qualified insights from different polysemy by which the role of the cultural interferences take part in developing their unconscious preferences. For instance, “Predispositions are planted in all of us in childhood, arising from the social and cultural environment into which we were born.” (Flores. 1993. p. 98), this quote be applied to the additional supporting portrayal impact of cultural and social learning. Indeed, the fashion industry is steadily developing under the different nations by various challenging directions because it necessarily needs to embody and reflects the present 6
day. In other words, the way of advancing fashion frame has a strong relevance with examining trends and issues of the society and culture in which holding a strong determination (Melchior, 2012; Rocamore, A and Smelik, A. 2016). Along with the direction aiming to respond to the present, seizing the trend movements and became to be able to communicate and construct a future society will be the way of understanding the cultural context under the fashion. One of the reflections is the promotional images from its brands; when the commercials have a strong correlation and interaction with consumers' characteristics and perceptions, they tend to show the higher effect in provoking consumers' 'involvement' in clothing consumption (Murray and Ko, 2002). To sum up, what makes the trend inside the public is not merely whether structured through the sole force from the individuals, but also the social influences and contemporary appearances cooperated in constructing identity. Fashion, within a broad discussion, is instead can be defined as a co-cultural investment. Yes, the survey from the 15,000 marketers among three different influential countries including the United Kingdom has agreed to have various images when they are promoting to improve the brand reputation (Shutterstock, 2017, cited by Oster, 2017). That global marketers shifted attitudes toward the representing models primarily related to the modern-day society as a diverse group of people no longer demand the traditional perfect “beauty” models. Likewise, Robyn Lange, the curator of the Shutterstock, stated that “Striking a chord with consumers is no longer about serving them images of perfection, as social media has helped to change how people view images. Consumers prefer images that accurately portray the world around them, as opposed to a perfected version of the world offered by marketers.” (Lange, 2017. Cited by Oster, 2017). As the survey was held with examples of “U.K. marketers’ use of imagery” (Oster, 2017), the diversity advertising movement in the United Kingdom indirectly indicated that now the United Kingdom’s market encourages the world to escape from the stereotyped advertising visuals showing the positive feedbacks towards increased diversity in advertising visuals. Moreover, this result has manifested the British industry has impacted below the general trend of using non-stereotypical images by revealing 51% of marketers’ reception has changed, compared to 20% in 2016 (DiRenzo, 2018).
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Starting from the fashion and the cultural correlation as of how two ideas linked, culture and fashion literature support of how the trend inside the country has become a significant phenomenon wherein physical, social conditions affect and the heritage cultural characteristics. Underneath the impact that now the world is observing an inclusive and diversity fashion, the writing will also provide examples of the British fashion industry of how they represented through the variety under their efforts. Given that the cultural and social environment's setting impacts an individual's fashion bond, this research will define how the recent cultural diversity values would influence a different society in action within a related different cultural background. The article divided into seven parts. First, the relations between culture and fashion will be sighted by comparing between the United Kingdom and South Korea’s shared cultural background. Then it illustrates how The British way filed has received the idea of diversity into their society by several related attempts. Next portion explains the differentiated view of society analysed by the community with experienced different cultural value. Finally, the findings are discussed, and limitations are made for further research. 1.1. Research Aims The purpose of this research is to explore how the influence of the United Kingdom fashion’s different visuals like sizing and model’s identity displayed might have on the other countries' society. Mainly, this research is trying to examine from one of the countries in the Asian Pacific, the South Korean culture which is opposed to Europe. Hence, the influence of the specific cultural impacts would be the centred investigation through this study which may re-invent the new mode to the different demographic society which has a differentiated environment cultural context. Consequently, by comparing from two nations, it will contribute to the arguable topic of the justness of the relationship between fashion and the culture. 1.2. Research Objective The primary research aim of this dissertation is to identify whether the original identity build through the cultural background can be changed under the different cultural influence below the experience and outside interventions. Below the British culture of 8
comprehending diversity, this research will examine whether the consistent cultural background of South Korean society be changed after they get along within cultural differences in the real public. There are four main vital objects that this research will respond to its aim. -
Does the cultural background really determine an individual's ideological background?
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Why it has to be considered from the United Kingdom and South Korea?
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How the United Kingdom accepted the changing values in fashion?
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What are the visual results in the fashion industry by the separated sections, specifically, in sizing and advertising various models in the media?
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How did the community has changed through their experiences in the United Kingdom and what attitudes are the most became different toward fashion?
Overview Chapter 1. Introduction Chapter 2. Literature Review Fashion and cultural studies
Correlation between the culture and fashion The British cultural identity
South Korean cultural identity
Chapter 3. The Way of Adopting New Trend and Procurement in the United Kingdom Apparel sizing & plus-size model
LGBT
Diverse races
Age
Disability
Chapter 4. Theoretical background & the theological research framework 4.1. National culture theory on individualistic vs. collectivistic 4.2. Social comparison theory
Chapter 5.
4.3. Research theological frame (S-O-R model)
Qualitative Methodology Analysis
Chapter 6. Results & discussion
Chapter 7. Conclusion 9
Chapter 2. Literature Review 2.1. Fashion and Cultural Studies Fashion with cultural studies is in the concept of interconnection, which means that all other aspects of a particular characteristic correspond to reflections on the organisation. Kaiser (2011) explained the fashion and the culture is on the "same line"; the clothing contains the experience of sharing the universal time and space. By its meaning, an aspect of co-experiencing, the culture and social structure indicate that the factors on what people wear and experiences, while they share, can make another move as the writing confirmed. In other words, their experience has demonstrated that the meaning of individual skills, one aspect of the shared experience, can be explained to change as they become part of social interaction. Consequently, the particular image of the changing and styles which have named by their location are portrayed as unparalleled with others. For example, the French Chic or the New York Chic are easily searched through the media as the same styles (see figure 1&2). However, this only applied when it comes to differentiated characteristics exist. On the other hands, while the close environments are an essential adequate the condition to make changes, an intangible space can also take part in this shift. On the abstract from the study research, Yangda et al. (2014) defined that the human activity recognition affected by the “location-free method� like technological devices. While the [sensor location] is inevitable as fixed on its place, the content delivered from the mobile has no specific direction or the position so that the way of interpreting the context is flexible in person. Therefore, along with their cultural identities, the global development which contains the changes means a lot to the researchers due to the contemporary approaches need to change as considering the background issues which can extend by themselves.
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Figure3. Intersectionalities among subject positions, based on Kaiser, 2001, p. 30. In-depth with the correspondence amidst the culture and the fashion, Kaiser (2011) stated that the factors composing the fashion subjects are “intersectional” and “transitional”. The idea of both intersectional and transitional has emerged in a relation of meeting the changes; specifically, the implications of “intersectionality” has a standpoint relationship with women’s studies (Linda. 2012; Berger and Guidroz, 2009). As theses theory has rooted in the writings of Black feminist discourses (Otnes and Tuncay-Zayer, 2011; Viruell-Fuentes, Miranda and Abdulrahim, 2012), it is strongly related to the human identity and the social movements. Based on the given figure chart (see figure 3), the intersectionality requires six subjects: gender, nation, sexuality, class, "race" & ethnicity, age, and place. Within the precise values of the six assumptions, they formed the personal process of styling and fashion by overlapping in the diverse aspects. Not simply one subject can control people’s dressing, but multi reasons exist. For instance, in terms of the connection between the nation and the “race” & ethnicity, the circumstance of where they innately placed or where they currently belonged can arguably contend that their sensor of rage patterns is affected. Hence, during the mainstreams’ movements, other interventions are set during the process of changing fashion. Proposition 1: People with the same demographics will share a different attitude towards clothing and appearance between who is exposed to a different cultural background and who is not. 11
2.2. Cultural Identities approaching to Fashion There are similar attempts to define the interpreting connection of dressing by the incorporate elements of the cultural studies (e.g. Winter, 2004; Hannerz, 1996; Appiah, 1994, Kaiser, 2011; Breward, 1998). By highlighting the importance of the cultural context which by representing the culture and images, the contemporary design meanings have been impressed by the backgrounds of technological, industrial changes along with â€œâ€Ś on board the complexities of social considerations, economic implications and cultural problems that inform and are informed by objects in a less fixed and selfconscious manner.â€? (Breward. 1998. p.302). Design development with the culture consideration is relatively young discipline compared to the history of art, as the study has perhaps been able to take on board the complexities of social accounts, economic implications and cultural problems that inform and are informed by objects less fixedly and self-consciously. However, there are cultural and racial characteristics remained. In a mind of the role of clothing in the formation of historical understandings of the culture, gender, society and a person itself, the writing is correspondingly critical to indicate the importance of the existing as well as the issues of the past. 2.2-1. Korean cultural background under interdependency and collectivism Estimating the cultural background makes it available to understand the varied culture more clearly, including their egos and society. While the cultural, psychosocial studies have improved based toward a European American cultural frame, Markus and Kitayama (1998) studied that numerous Asian cultures have shown their identities were formed from the socio-cultural group more than any other nations. Accordingly, with more high possibilities, the study has proved that Asian have a strong constructed personality as an interpersonal adapting from others which related to the basis of their social contexts. What author stated, "A cultural psychology approach assumes that personality is completely interdependent with the meanings and practices of particular sociocultural contexts." (Markus and Kitayama.1998. p. 66). Describes that person as a social subject is not always individualistic within the given cultural context that the personality is not a sole creation. Consequently, when it comes to the different cultural contexts has blended, Asian's behaviours can be moderately interdependent to adopt new changes and will show 12
more co-existence tendency to breathe with other related roots. As Korea has characterised as an “ethnically homogeneous country” (임형백, 2009; 이종두 & 백미연, 2012; 허동현, 2009), one must understand in general is the gap between the speciality of the single race cultural history and the difference between a Western culture which is more multicultural and ethnically diverse. When it comes to the subject of diversity, the globalisation somewhat has priority to be considered; involving on the impact of globalisation be implicated to both personal choices and the individual economic situations and then eventually affecting their purchasing (Woodward et al., 2008). Likewise, as they exposed to the diverse social and cultural attributes, their acceptance and new production may be defined and preferred in somehow, respectively, affecting the sentiments of a large number of people. In other words, the era of globalisation is understanding for different existent; more precisely, it is a notice of modernisation developed under various social and economic activities. Likewise, Held et al. (1999) described globalisation had expanded the social and economic movements across borders. This approach can lead to the concept of global society in which the conception of national identities to be diverse. Contemporary, within the confrontation of integrating diverse society and individualism, our community tends to follow a specific limited “social patterns” (Chira, 2016. p.85). And when it comes to a culture where have a strong cultural identity, this deniable tendency is likely to be strong. First of all, Korea's identity has built from several external influences from history. In the middle of the 19th century, during the Joseon Dynasty before the establishment of the Republic of Korea, the policy of closing the nation by Heungseon Daewongun delayed the reform of the Joseon Dynasty from accommodating foreign ideas when it was the period while of enlightenment has been divided between receiving the rapidly changing regime (e.g. 김혜승, 2006; 전택부, 1958; 김유호; 2009). However, this anti-modern policy was recorded as due to having been under foreign pressure at the time. For example, Joseon had been under competitive pressure from foreign countries such as France and the United States for unequal trade with the Joseon dynasty, including Byeong-in-yangyo (1866) and Shin-Mi-yang-yo (1871) (김혜승, 2006; 2012). Even though it eventually shut down the nation from the outside world, it was about to protect its identity and was planned to build a wealthy country by its society. From the seizure of state power in 1910
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to the liberation in 1945, Korea again suffered a colonial-era by Japan for 35 years. Under Japan’s colonial policy explained by Nitobe Inazo for slogans like “free society” and a “firm government” (Shin and Robinson, 1999, p.31), Koreans were deprived their country under increased pressure, signing bad contracts such as long coercive detention, physical abuse and torture. As the Japanese recognised that coercion somehow failed by the occurrence of the 3.1 Independence Movement (1919), Japan made a policy under the name of "cultural policy" to assimilate Koreans to the Japanese (중앙일보. 2017; see figure 6 and 7). This "cultural policy" consisting of guns and knives, though that to dilute anti-Japanese sentiment, they firstly schemed to assimilate Koreans with the Japanese; the sense of national autonomy made Korean society to continuously resistance. Among the policy, Japanese wanted to create a Japanese loyalty document to force worship, suppress the use of Han-gul, or rename the people with a Japanese name (Kim, 2016; 정윤재, 2005; 중앙일보, 2017). Indeed, they found that the strong opposition of Koreans came from the social and cultural culture, so what Japanese banned from Koreans the use of Korean letters or changing their names and attitudes. Even more, unfortunately, the U.S. and Soviet intervention have led to have as the era of a 'cold war nationalism' at the end (박태균, 1993; 조계표 & 박재익, 2016; 허은, 2011) which by Korea to be an independent country but interdependent on relations. These are the critical affairs why and how Koreans been exclusive to other nations and having a strong collectivistic cultural background through in the long history of Korean culture and have kept under the name of an ethnically homogeneous country with a single language and culture. The past of numerous such invasions, looting, and the fierce struggle under the interdependent citizens to protect the nation and culture has consequently contributed to the establishment of this own independent and homogenous culture by and for Koreans. Proposition 2a: People with the original cultural background will be hard to change their preference in clothing among the diversity and adhere to their style. 2.2-2. Multicultural Britain whose individualistic tendencies have contributed Triandis (1989-b) has argued there are fewer distinctions between ingroups and outgroups by individualists than there are collectives. Likewise, according to the Office for National
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Statistics (2018), the report has announced that the population of the United Kingdom is increasing steadily and expected to grow further still. It is due to the comparably increasing number for exceeding the number of immigrants than the emigrants, and this shift is affecting the nationality and country of compositions of the United Kingdom.
Figure 4 (ONS. 2018) defines that the increasing statistics of the diverse population composing the overall Britain components by immigrating to the United Kingdom from different nationalities: European Union nations, other European countries, Asian countries and the other nations year-on-year. Eventually, The United Kingdom has become one of the most ‘multi-ethical’ countries in the world with describing the ‘multiculturalism’ country and, accurately, London, the capital city of the UK, has remarkably vibrant in having a diverse language spoken within various people.
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However, Alexander (2002) and Housee and Sharma (1999) has argued that there has long been a tendency to both essentialize and pathologise the lifestyle and religions of people where their origin is different from the root. The past, which strongly opposed to the differences, may have felt an enormous burden on people to respect diversity in the present. While they have a division inside the society, step by step, culture has changed, and the community has adapted and undergone a new alternation. One of the most significant issues was on 2012 London Olympic moments. When the world's attention focused on the ceremony, it was common for women to be shown on the screen as they assisted. However, London showcased all the flower and medal bearers by men, while escorting the athletes were by women. As this also influenced the Asian countries which by comparing with last 2008 Beijing Olympics (Kunjung. 2012), it has inspired the world of the accountable message of keeping diversity and advertising “modern London as a vibrant, youthful and diverse city.� (Bari. 2012). Along with the community has been asserted, the posture with diversity also distinguished oneself.
Figure 5. Tai. 2018. Percent Models of colour in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Further, when it comes to fashion, the charts from figure 5 show that London respects diversity by a narrow margin from New York among the most influential countries except New York. While New York cannot be the correct standard and the percentage of 16
receiving racial diverse in annual shows, but London contrasts - 8.6 points, Milan - 14.9 points, and finally Paris - 12.4 points in order of the figure charts. As within showing the unique comprehensive among European countries leading the fashion world, the way of London, the United Kingdom has proved through the fashion field will teach others how their 'diversity' works. Turner (1996) stated that “Culture, as the site where that sense or meaning is generated and experienced, becomes a determining, productive field through which social realities are constructed, experienced and interpreted�. Under the concept of this cultural transformation and connection between culture and individuality, individualistic society can discover that the basic principles of liberalism, multicultural and international Britain accepted the diversity easier than other countries as an outstanding outcome. Proposition 2b: People after viewing different cultural experience will be more considerable in their garment choosing.
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Chapter 3. The Way of Adopting New Trend and Procurement in the United Kingdom As the importance of expanding diversity in the sociological and psychological aspects as a social phenomenon arrives (Ivancevich and Gilbert, 2000; Woody, 2017), there continue needs to be strong understanding the diversity impacts individual and the organisation to see expected outcomes. Indeed, the diversity in the fashion industry has become an indisputably vital topic to be considered which needs strenuous exertion. Several types of research have also emphasised the relevance and importance of diversity and the progress on diversification (Barry, 2014; Williams, 2016; Landi and Dercole, 2016). Also, the number of relevant observations has increased exponentially over the past decades for the future of the field, and it is evident that diversity is commanding qualification within the idea of that diversity is a vital component. Then what is diversity? The term diversity seems to carry a wide array of meanings and is attempted to simplify the definition within various forms. While it may prominently be facing political and social questions (Davina, 2004), all the outlines are interpreting the way of accepting the differences and being equal to public relations. Understanding the equality and inequality with the discussion of the different boundaries conflicting over social and cultural issues can be justifying one form of diversity. Under the definition is given that diversity is a comprehensive theory, aspect of terms of fashion has involved various variables (e.g. age, sex, race, physical constitution, size, etc.). Sproles (1979) defined fashion as “a way of behaving that is temporarily adopted by a discernible proportion of members of a social group because that chosen behaviour is perceived to be socially appropriate for the time and situation�. As fashion is one of the reflections adopting perceived sharing time and circumstances, members of the social group would behave under the multiple variables involved in their community. Commonly, these maximised experiences follow along with how they encountered. Fashion does not promote itself; whether it uses several differently established communicative and informative organisations; fashion is a construction relies on socialisation and media which are affecting the shopping behaviour (Apeagyei, 2011). Specifically, clearly and accurately what the audience informed via media helps the group to understand the process of obtaining the message from each brand.
Media is an
incorporating player in fashion communication proposing customers to indicate existing
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acceptances. According to several studies have established to demonstrate the influence under social media, consumers purchasing behaviour has exerted through the generated media platforms (Zahid et al., 2018; Akar and Topçu, 2011; (Goh, Heng and Lin, 2013). Therefore, based on social interaction, generating shared communities is racial to make people align with the theory of diversity. The Theses socialisation inside the market place is defined as the process through which people obtain relevant information and experiences which can work in functioning as consumers (Hawkins et al., 2001). By illustrating the example models of expressing the diversity inside the fashion industry will define how, explicitly, the United Kingdom accepted and reclaimed about the issue of being 'diversity'. Proposition 3: Consumers with various cultural exposures will have higher concerns about accepting diversity in their society than consumers without different exposures. 3.1. Apparel sizing and it’s model As one of the substantial parts on fashion, the sizing of the garment can be as an 'arbitrary protocol' which composed by someone in the purpose of sales within a 'creation-supply chain' (Faust and Carrier. 2014. p. 4). As the clothing measurement has created by 'someone', it necessarily depends on selective commonalities like shapes, backgrounds, a particular style or other influencing interferences. Although, retailers are striving to obtain the balance covering most of the target demographics as they were aware of the needs of multifariousness of sizes and shapes of the real consuming. However, what consumers can accept is not through the fit models or labels but on their try on sizes while the body shape and fit are hard to be defined for brand's clothing size, i.e. ready-to-wear, this led customers into a frustrating dilemma on their purchasing. Also, this incongruity has driven from the stereotyped measurements which maintained from the previous estimations essentially similar to 1970s (Faust and Carrier. 2014. p. 7). While the apparel sizing is modifiable within the confines of past, people have drifted by a slim body preference, mainly, from women have shown a strong inclination on slimmer silhouette (Cohn and Adler, 1992; Shih and Kubo,2005). Given that apparel sizing and fit contribute on consumers' perception and body image, the gap contributed on their body 19
dissatisfaction and depression (Bearman, Presnell, & Martinez, 2006; Grabe & Hyde, 2006). The industry momentarily augmented that they should reinforce the rendering the ‘real’ size so that the apparel sizing betterment can stop the misleading acceptance. Indeed, along with providing more various sizes, the issue of the sizable models being more presentable with the same condition of a variety of apparel sizes is part of the diversity. However, the body image among Britain is no different from the trend of smaller size being skinny. According to the study, Britain's female customers markedly showed the higher preference on consuming the idealised body types and sizes on their consumption of clothing and fashion, while this ‘misleading’ sizing will increase the frustration among the consumers (Apeagyei, 2008). Commercial body images what brands are selling are negatively affecting on consumers (i.e. Ahern, Bennett and Hetherington, 2008, Smith and Yang, 2017). Firstly, this subject will be conducted by one of the Britain brands ASOS with the objective to determine and describe the role of improving consumers awareness of the various size. ASOS is an online based retail shop which promotes a ‘healthy body image’ by more than 200 representative models without reshaping digitally (ASOS. 2019). It provides various size's range within two separated categories for men and women. In terms of the plus size in womenswear, there are three different types: ASOS curve, Plussize, and ASOS curve exclusive which is more particularised than menswear (see figure 8 and 9).
Figure 8. ASOS. 2019. Women’s curve & Plus size.
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Figure 9. ASOS. 2019. Plus size. By showing the costumes dressed in the 'right' sized model, they give a sense of reality and make customers feel familiar and closer. Active exposure to a variety of categories can also lead to changes in perception. Diverse- product/category settings help consumers to exposed to specifically targeted products, which are sensitive to similarities (meaningful comparisons) between products and attract more consumers to the decisionmaking process based on their environmental settings within comparison (Kim and Meyers-Levy, 2008). Nevertheless, the lack remained for more options because of its online-focused sales. Still, what can support this flaw would be Marks & Spencer's new consultant does this flaw for plus-sized consumers. Marks & Spencer's curve range for women has newly created a separate plus-size collection (Marks & Spencer. 2018). Also, there was a Danielle Vanier (2018) who is young, stylish and influential on the social media with 100,000 followers consulting people to be informed the updated approach to curve fashion. Within supports from the brand and the social influencer evoked the curvaceous consumers to be more available to participate in the field. Below the illustrations are representing how Danielle promoted M&S's new curve collection through online (see figure 10 and 11). One of the participants stated, “What’s really great now is that, as we are embracing different body shapes in fashion, and embracing new role models, women are feeling more confident about embracing their curves. Now they just need the clothes to match.�(Hales, 2018, cited by Leaper, 2018). Admittedly, it is a reflection of demands from plus-size women in the industry to assist their needs with the same degree of attention to the traditional centred customers. Though, M&S primarily focused on womenswear unlike ASOS dealt 21
with both menswear. Therefore, it is required to develop to more various ranges for men as men's fashion is on the kindred occasion (Barry, 2014). Likewise, even though still the consumers are unconsciously looking after the cult of the ‘size zero’, the fashion leading brands are trying to reset the current image representations of the right sizing for the customers. It indicates that the past fashion industry does limit their 'direct' experience, such as wearing or comparing garments directly to find their size, independently of what they see. Despite the remaining room for improvement, it can define as contributing to the diversity of sizes in that knowledge exchange can be actively conducted with more options for consumers.
Figure 10. Vanier (Vanier, 2018) tweeted posts of support
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Figure 11. DANIELLE VANIER: AHEAD OF THE CURVE, by M&S. 2018. 3.2. From the magazine cover page to the mainstream advertisement As companies need to align themselves with their target customers, the recent target audiences tend to be more progressive and openminded; according to the Kensey scale study under Britain (Dalhlgreen and Shakespeare, 2015), 49% of people between the ages of 18 and 24 revealed as identifying themselves as something other than heterosexual. This research has defined that, unlike people tend to hide their sexual preferences and to be reinforced to be on the regulation, the society has improved about revealing themselves to be on the various options. Which ensured marketers be less restricted to cater the niche audiences without the risk of distancing more popular customers. A niche market doesn't mean small or trifle, they can quickly be adjusted as a captive and loyal audience (Bernstel, 2002). Given that audiences are prepared to be receptive, there is a first regular columnist as a trans person, Paris Lees. Vogue, as one of the most iconic fashion magazines in the world, has never been hired the transgender writer for 125 years (BBC, 2018). It refers that this radical shift of revealing trans-visibility is not disturbing the opportunity in the
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modern fashion industry. Not only in the fashion but effective social networking within her almost 80,000 followers on social media worked to fight against bullying and equality. Paris then included in a feature celebrating women first granted the right to vote in the United Kingdom (Newbold, 2018) (see figure 11). What she made as a goal is that she, as a trans person, has unveiled to be on the mainstream to encourage people who depicted as off from the stereotypes and standards. In succession, in 2018, British Vogue revealed the campaign "We Won't Be Erased" through the video media. For encouraging "those" ignored existences, there were 42 members of the trans and non-binary community sharing and explaining the importance of their representation (BBC. 2018). Keeping representing the various gender through TV, media and other live advertising players has a critical role in not only notifying but also educating and driving social acceptance of them. The campaign and the publicity on the media have shared the idea of being a trans people or the other LGBT position be more widely accepted and be common within the society to gain insight of understanding of gender.
Figure 12. Meet The New Suffragettes. By Hetta. 2018. (Paris is on the third row of the left side.)
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3.3. Brand cooperating with cultural and racial diversity The immigration allowing various races as part of the British society can be considered as one criterion discussing reflecting the culture and racial diversity in general.
The
study of diversity for social and social integration in Western democracies has continued due to the increase in immigration of people who have increased in recent years. Ideologues bring to mind the ever-increasing fear of immigration policy impact and the ignorance of social relationships about conflicts in multi-ethnic communities. While the consequences of diversity for the society and democracies being expressing their fears and conflicts, David Goodhart (2004) illustrated that ‘Britain can have either mass immigration or generous welfare, but not both – and of the two, welfare is better’. In the meantime, Britain is withdrawing from the European Union called the Brexit. With “no deal” on their withdrawal agreement, the political decision aggravated the society to behave under their nervous; “these anxieties are themselves alienating, and they produce divergent, incongruent, oscillatory reactions across different social sectors and groups, which further expand public disaffection.” (Schwartz, 2017, pp.11). Align with their decision on the United Kingdom’s ‘leaving’ the union, have seen as against the globalisation and being uneven to other different parts of countries. According to the Statistic of Crime and Law from 2015 to early 2018 in figure 13 (Statista, 2018), the chart is demonstrating that the number of crimes related to the racism in Britain has increased, especially in violation of public order, followed by reported violence against the person without injury. For example, British Transport Police (BTP) reported that they'd received 119 allegations of racist abuse or violence taking place on British railways during after the result (The Guardian, 2016). Likewise, the police reported over 3,000 hate crimes have occurred across the United Kingdom (BBC. 2016). Hence, the relation between the increasing incidents of hate crime and immigration should be clearly should be understood in terms of a state of racist crime as a negative correlation.
25
Figure 13. Number of hate crimes motivated by race in England and Wales from April 2015 to March 2018, by offence type, by offence type. From Statista. 2018. Against the racist direction, Jigsaw (2017) launched the 'Heart immigration' campaign. Jigsaw has claimed that the fashion industry works under diverse people, culture and ideas. “From the Afghan Coat that started it all (brought back to the UK in 1970 by Jigsaw founder John Robinson), to the 45 nationalities it now employs across the business, immigration and cultural diversity have helped Jigsaw define what we now know as ‘British style’ on the high street.” (Jigsaw. 2017). By holding a word of 'immigration' which placed at the centre of controversy connecting with 'diversity', the brand took a stance on an advertisement that they are encouraging on this topic and willing to make people relevant to have those discussions. The phrase performed an innovative strategy at the risk of antipathy from some "traditional" customers to take a stance on diversity in the world of fashion; the Jigsaw's market got rebellion phone calls from "the angry customers slamming the retailer" within an hour after they launched the campaign (Kelly, 2017, cited by Faull, 2017). This challenging manifesto of including 'anyone' to be British stimulated the society to take risks of taking
26
debates and be sensitive to the idea of origins. Indeed, several academic analyses have established and supported the idea which collision between ethnic or racial diversity can cause negative emotions such as threat and has increased its negative attitude toward others who are distinctive (Blumer, 1958; Giles and Buckner, 1993). Moreover, various member characteristics like age, ethnicity, and expertise have revealed to have negative outcomes in group performance (Jackson et al. 1995). Even though the negative impact of racial diversity on the social framework, relationships can be refuted as the increase in demographic diversity constitutes a beneficial social network. Buse et al. (2014) have defined that broad diversity not only the policies and practices, but also the interactions with gender, age, and racial and ethnic diversity contributed to diversity influence and are affected by each other. As the creation of multicultural Britain has been a predominantly 'centre' of the ethnic diversity, particularly in the context of corporate experience, these pattern of visual demand for ethnic and religious diversity will be continued to shape the far the most ethnically mixed movement in the United Kingdom. 3.4. Ageing is not a limitation of value One of the understandings why society has been unequal below the age is mostly due to the group of mortals hold that the gap between different age range cannot concede. This insufficient consciousness managed to happen the generational conflicts of 'generation gap'. Indeed, the conscious of age differences in the distinct element restricts the agerelated access. Although 'the generation gap' has long been discussed as a social phenomenon in which formed lasting differences among age groups, research into efforts to narrow down the gap is still continuous. However, this gap has been overly focused more on physical issues, not on its value concerns (Giancola, 2019). Hence, under the belief that age diversity should be respected important as a proportionate expansion in the ageing population, they should be considered how they will fit into the current culture as an important member of society rather than focusing on external appearance and physical changes. Mainly, the problem of the ageing population is dealing with civil existence and social ability. Primarily, it was mainly apportioned within Asia as they are losing population and missing the young working forces, then now it has been a big problem all over the world. Indeed, the overall population is experiencing the rapid losing the fertility rates by everywhere getting old (Foner et al., 1969; Christensen et al., 2009; Gray, 2012). 27
Eventually, the United Kingdom has reported that the problem of demographic ageing has exposed as a continuous rise in the population. It has estimated the current 9.8 million aged 65 and over forecasted to rise to 17 million by 2044, representing 25% of the UK population (National Association of Pensions Fund, 2008). As the needs of community relevance to the age should be more diverse, the importance of being familiar with their existence is what nowadays society need to become. That makes it possible to guess how much they are 'publicised' they are in the space where modern people used to. Foner et al. (1969) have redefined the ageing as "not merely an indeterminate recession from social and physical existence, and the stages of adult passage through life do not end with the coming of parenthood." Ageing is not a loss of existence from society and physical defects, but a result of growing up in stages by reflecting on it. However, Kubey et al. (1995) examined men have been comparably more likely to appear, while women were less to obliged in case of showcasing older generation. Not surprisingly, still representing the diverse age range via media channels dissolves older males in the age over 40s had more room for improvement, while the media proportionately tend to present and wanted to see younger females in the channel sources. Recently, the fashion industry is embracing the age diversity into their strategies; it is impugnable to ignore that silver generation spent a vast amount of spending even though the significant advertising campaigns typically neglected them. It is sure that the global spending power of those aged 60 and above are forecasted to reach $15tn (ÂŁ9.6tn) by 2020 (Euromonitor,2014, cited by Daneshkhu, 2014) and this 'Grey pound' will fulfil the new era of progress on social development alongside with across multiple sectors (Business Growth Hub. 2017). Nowadays, the brands are enlisting older models with influencer together to improve the selling power. For instance, there is a Vivienne Westwood to describe the age inclusivity. Vivienne Westwood as a designer and a businesswoman, Vivienne Isabel Swire is borne in 1941 described as “one of the most unconventional and outspoken fashion designers in the worldâ€? (Biography. 2019). Likewise, Business of Fashion (2019) has nominated Westwood as one of the 500 people who is shaping the fashion industry within the definitive professional index. Recently, the fashion industry is embracing the age diversity into their strategies; it is impugnable to ignore that silver generation spent a vast amount of spending even though the significant advertising campaigns typically neglected them. It is sure that the global 28
spending power of those aged 60 and above are forecasted to reach $15tn (£9.6tn) by 2020 (Euromonitor,2014, cited by Daneshkhu, 2014) and this 'Grey pound' will fulfil the new era of progress on social development alongside with across multiple sectors (Business Growth Hub. 2017). Nowadays, the brands are enlisting older models with influencer together to improve the selling power. For instance, there is a Vivienne Westwood to describe the age inclusivity. Vivienne Westwood as a designer and a businesswoman, Vivienne Isabel Swire is borne in 1941 described as “one of the most unconventional and outspoken fashion designers in the world” (Biography. 2019). Likewise, Business of Fashion (2019) has nominated Westwood as one of the 500 people who is shaping the fashion industry within the definitive professional index. As now she’s seventy-seven-year-old, her past and the present has started from the interconnecting through the culture. The combination of the cultural studies and the fashion, Punk is a visual development of the concept of cultural studies of fashion started from the response to the “subculture” during the late 1970s in England’s youth culture (Hebdige, 1979). See figure 14 which is the end of the Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010 walking with her model on the runway. The model on the picture is wearing an open-wide jean jacket with a rough typography printing while using a variety of colours such as yellow, red, and white on her hair and makeup. Also, have an unshaven hairstyle. Likewise, the hairstyle imitated the Mohican among punk and the irrelevance styling of prints and the decorations visualised the statement of the fashion "standard‐shifting salient by zealously attacking prior norms" (Prinz, 2014). And, ultimately, she made herself into the same figure to show her message to the audiences. She demonstrated not only that she linked with her fashion, but also there is no limitation on expressing herself. Audiences are accustomed to what they see and get used to the impressions so that the interactional contribution (Zimmerman and Bauer, 1956; Denzin, 1995).
29
Figure 14. Vivienne Westwood, the ‘grandmother of punk fashion’ by CNN, 2014. Repeatedly, in terms of diversity of age, it also applies to recognise people of all ages can make positive contributions to the workplace (e.g. Heery and Noon, 2008). Therefore, including up to what Vivienne Westwood keep convinced her on stage active achievement like by her design, existence, and by her appearance, she achieved a positive influence to the community by breaking the stereotype of the capabilities of older people should be excluded. She still continuously represents the fashion of Britain culture, and the path of past histories keep inspiring the whole society to be conscious and to send off her lively messages under her lifespan. Eventually, this connection with older consumers will serve better in terms of cohesive society can expect ever more demanding of their goods and services. 3.5. The larger meaning of self-expression The British brand River Island recently has praised for its campaigns embracing identity through fashion and self-expression, especially during 2018. The brand showcased people who are out of the stereotyped; a model with Down's syndrome, Kathleen Humberstone; a wheelchair basketball star, Jordan; further different disabled children (see figure 15,16 and 17). This attempt can be construed as standing for the minor group of people who are
30
not familiar with the majorities as the disability is foremost the least appreciated group in the fashion fields and these contact with the public may assert some reactions through the methods. Ajzen (1988) stated that attitudes, whether positive or negative, towards the object can be implied from verbal or non-verbal responses and there are various attempts to have the impressions towards them, mostly through the media. There are models how Britain is notably more unrestricted to access to those disabled people; disabled female and male athletes of Paralympics; Professor Stephen Hawkins; politician David Blunkett. Also, there were attempts to out-weight the stirred up the issues including disability in fashion like the programme Britain’s Missing Top Model (BMTM) which was the competition among eight women with different disabilities (see figure 18). As Zimbardo and Leippe (1991) attested the mass media is influential, theses indirect contact with disabled people will represent people a form of reliable communication via mass media, while impersonal. Marie O’Riordan (2008), one of the editors of Marie Claire stated that “To get disability discussed on the sofas throughout the land is no mean feat and using a popular format of a reality show was a clever way of seducing viewers into a more complex world.” (cited by Roberts. 2008). While a UK government states “By 2025 disabled people … should have full opportunities and choices to improve their quality of life, and will be respected and included as equal members of society.” (Prime Minister's Strategy Unit, 2005. P44), the way of negotiating disability issues in society is still being remained limited. Therefore, this represents, including the pushing advertisements on the public media in a more fashionable way, people will begin to be interested and familiar with these issues.
31
Figures Figure1. PARISIAN CHIC STREET STYLE – DRESS LIKE A FRENCH WOMAN
Figure2. The Best Street Style at New York Fashion Week Spring 2019
32
Figure 6&7. 암울했던 일제강점기…민족문화까지 약탈하다. (bleak Japanese occupation …plunder national culture)
33
Figure 15. River Island. 2018. Jordan Luce’s Guide To Cuffing 100% Smooth Moves.
Figure 16. River Island. 2018. Queen Kathleen’s Life Rules.
34
Figure 17. River Island. 2018. River Island hires child models with disabilities for their new campaign.
Figure 18. BBC. 2008. Britain’s Missing Top Model.
35
Chapter 4. Theoretical background and the research theological framework 4.1. National culture on individualistic versus collectivistic culture Eastern and Western cultures are described as associating between cultural background and values for Asian collectivism and Western individualism (Oyserman, Coon and Kemmelmeier, 2002). Eastern collectivistic cultures, including Korean society, encourage interdependence, unity and obedience to established rules (Kim et al., 2009; Yang and Laroche, 2011; Yang et al., 2014). In contrast, Western and individualistic cultures promote independent cultures that prioritise individual needs, rights and freedoms (Triandis, 1989-a; 1995). Among other things, the impact of information delivery has a more significant effect on individualistic consumer groups rather than the collectivistic consumer groups (Lee & Kacen, 2008). As a result, these findings show that the form of social influence varies with individualistic culture and collectivistic culture. Therefore, the acceptance of newer styles and brands by Britons with individualistic tendencies would tend to accept diversity more efficiently than by collectivistic Koreans including it can be expected that Koreans who have experienced a tendency to individualism will also be affected. 4.2. Social comparison within the situation Social comparison theory states that when there are no standards set, people judge and assess their behaviours by comparing self with others (Festinger, 1954). And their comparisons can take place between the group or the individual level (Guimond et al., 2007). For example, people tend to change oneself to be more like the comparison standard when there arise discrepancies between the self and the comparison standard (Higgins, 1987). In practice, social comparisons implemented to all relevant and irrelevant groups under the perceived situation that they are suitable for social comparisons (Turner, Brown and Tajfel, 1979). Also, Social comparison can be more engaged to occur more in interdependent cultural groups; collectivist group define themselves as aspects of associations within the cooperation relationship (e.g. Yuki, 2003; Kitayama and Cohen, 2007; Triandis, 2001). Indeed, under the generational and socioeconomic changes, there is a group that adopts a more individualistic direction 36
(Matsumoto, Kudoh, and Takeuchi, 1996). Therefore, even though the people have a different cultural background, might be motivated to change their perception and engage in the social comparison process at the individual level with the shifted cultural location. Also, the group level with other social sharing within the same cultural identities will be available to redefine one's individualities by comparing oneself. 4.3. Research theological frame S-O-R model is concocted to attempts to describe the possible influence of involvement on the consumer decision process. S-O-P paradigm is a standardising paradigm which illustrates within the process of stimuli-organism-response which developed by Houston and Rothschild (1977). The S-O-R model demonstrates the correlation between the shifted physical environment of Koreans (S) and how they influenced by their involvement and individual experience (O) to the outcome of their behaviour (R). The research model for this study addresses how different cultural backgrounds influence different regional society in the clothing in context of diversity (see Figure below). Basically, the research model for this study addresses how different cultural backgrounds influence different regional society in clothing in the context of diversity. The flow of the effects in the model is that the environmental exchange affects people's clothing within an inclusive way and that this interaction influences society's intentions to accept more diverse styles in their garments in their daily life. From the above arguments, the process of the idea of the following prepositions demonstrates through three steps. In this study, constructing within four propositions, having two different cultural backgrounds within the same nationalities were considered to be stimuli (S). It is because human interactions across the cultures and countries through the associating framework affects the individual identity are associated with the relative salience to be following the standard procedures and rules (Early and Yng, 2003). Various experiences in their choices are the interactional stimulus as those provide emotional responses (O) into their lives. Then, the key attain of the research is to have the changed behavioural outcome (P) relevant to the interpretative diversity in their clothing. Eventually, samples are expected to reach the following selection criteria: Group A suggests that embracing a new cultural environment of the UK (P2b) will be closer to the existence of more diversity (P3) more than the group B 37
which had previous cultural background with the establishment of Korean culture (P2a). Therefore, this research suggests that in the end, the diversity will be prominent in group A's style of behaviour (P4). Proposition 4: Various experience in clothing choice will allow people to accept diversity in their society.
Involvement & Individual experience (O)
Environmental Stimuli(S)
P1
The United Kingdom (shifted background)
Intention to allow diversity in their community.
Concerns in diverse appearance and clothing selection.
South Korea (original background)
South Korean
Behavioural Outcome (P)
P4
P2a P2b
P3
P4
Figure. Research model: The effects of changing the cultural background on the results of the actions of members of society in apparel clothing.
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Chapter 5. Methodology 5.1. Selection of study participants In a method using the S-O-R model, it is essential to get enough information to explain the theory entirely. In this study, various majors were included in the recruitment of participants, rather than those engaged in research subjects. Beforehand, the interview applied for the respondent in anticipation of information about the interview questions on the online site. Respondents had to display personal information, including their gender, age, and occupation, to aggregate data but did not have to report names to state anonymity. Also, respondents were assured of confidentiality by indicating that they could not see other responses and that all data would be stored at the first author's college. The study showed the most significant numbers performed within 17 participants in their 20s, 19 out of 20 participants had received the higher education, and with the even amounts of students, workers, and students were evenly conducted on their occupation (Table 1). Table 1. Demographic characteristics of interviewees Characteristics The Male The Female Age
Education
Occupation
Number United Kingdom
5
South Korea
5
United Kingdom
5
South Korea
5
10-20
1
21-25
8
26-29
9
30-35
2
High school graduate
1
In college
8
College graduate
11
Student
9
Office worker
5
Job seeker
6
5.2. Data collection and analysis 39
In this study, the first investigation of the reactions of South Korean society will be handled qualitatively through interviews to analyse the changes occurrences through the environmental shifts. A total of 20 Korean participants individually interviewed for 30 minutes to an hour. It held from 9th of February to 20th of February, 2019. Specifically, group A as 10 Koreans who are currently living in the UK or more than three months and group B people who never been to the UK or less than three weeks. The survey details have recorded with the consent of the participants, and the recorded data has transcribed in the language expressed by the interviewer to form the raw materials; the survey was translated into English because all processes have conducted in Korean. Even though questions have set, some of the issues have to be drafted according to the circumstances and the irrelated answers. The basis on Houston and Rothschild (1977), there are three data sources involved. Part 1 is asking about external stimuli (S) for individuals, internal stimuli (O) for individuals and the resulting behavioural changes (R) were gradually analysed in part 2 and 3. External stimuli have been extracted from environmental changes and developed to reach subcategories in search of commonalities of the concepts extracted. Internal changes have evolved into abstract subcategories that recognise perceptions and differences within individual categories, and into conceptual higher classes that identify the consequences of reactions. Differentiated questionnaires will be provided in Appendix 1. 5.3. Reliability of research The rigour of qualitative research can be determined by reliability (Lincoln and Guba, 1985). First, to collect objective data, it was attempted to include various age groups and vocational groups. Also, during interviews, visitors could talk about sensitive issues without burden by ensuring anonymity through individual meetings with the researcher. The process of modifying concepts and categories have carried out while continuously comparing interview details in analysing data to ensure the reliability of its results and interpretations.
40
Chapter 6. Results and discussion This chapter includes the quotes and questionnaires from Appendix 1 and quotes from Appendix 2 and 3. It will discuss the results through the quotes from the participants in group A and B. Then it will list the results and discussions, referring to their answers. 6.1. The contrary attitude towards restraint from the social cue The research has explained that the response to the fundamental cultural background was reciprocal since their surroundings changed. According to the environment condition, questions from both group A and B's part 1 are adjusted to define the variations through background cultural identity, and this demonstrates the influence of environmental conditions shifts referring the Proposition 1. Most of the participants in group A interpreted their life in the UK be more relaxed as people are open-minded and be more individualistic (see quotes from Appendix 2). ... But one of the most stunning things is that people in the UK are way more open-minded, they love to discuss and talk to each other and try to understand. - Interviewee A But normally people don’t really care about others like specifically their style and the makeup which was the most comfortable thing in here. However, people in Korea, they really care about others’ perspectives. So even though I don’t want to do something, I feel that I need to do to be part of society.
- Interviewee B
The weather and the people’s mindset. They are more focus on individuals than us, unlike we like to be as a group. - Interviewee D As I mentioned, the mindset is very different. People in here don’t care about others how they wear, eat or behave. Meanwhile, Koreans do compare with others mostly all the time. And this also related to how we decorate? Makeup ourselves. For example, we prefer to have a pretty appearance and also others do think it is a benefit to live. - Interviewee H
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Basically, the culture is different. People really don’t care about age and have less competitive spirit than our country, and there is not much comparison. Even though the prices are higher than in Korea, still life itself is more relaxed. - Interviewee I As people don’t care that much about others, I also became to be apathetic. Especially, I realized that students were so free inside the class. Also, no need to do the makeup and do care about the clothing styles. I’ve heard a lot that Koreans do care too much about their appearances. - Interviewee J While group B has illustrated Korean society be more 'interdependent' and sensitive on social relations and disciplines, even though they are being stressed on them but still relying on it (see quotes from Appendix 3). Koreans like to be gathered and being as a group and have a slightly excessive sense of community. - Interviewee c When public opinion is formed, people's opinions are easily swayed. - Interviewee d People in Korea do care much about others and do care what other people think. Interviewee i Eventually, this can be interpreted as the participants in both the UK and Korea have experienced (and experiencing) the 'psychological discomfort' within how other people's gazing of them, specifically at the Korean society. This trait has correspondent to several previous studies as Asians do care more of the social relations and the restrictions so that it may restrict individual behaviours (e.g. Zhang et al., 2007; Lehman, Chiu and Schaller, 2004; Markus and Kitayama. 1991). While the group B research participants staying in Korea has been showing to accustom to existing social cue, a large part of group A tends to show the differentiated attitude towards their overall behaviours. This kind of changed 'mindset' has demonstrated on the question no. 9 in questionnaires on A and no.8 on B which was asking about their spontaneousness on allowing differences from their origins.
42
9 (8).
Could or would you accept the differences if you were to move away?
Group A showed an overall 60% (8 out of 10) of confidence response of 'Yes' while group B was divided into 40% of 'Yes' (4 out of 10), 40% of complying with and last 20% (2 out of 10) of having a repugnance. On the other hand, it has also found that some of the participants in group A also felt inadequate and uncomfortable (see quotes from Appendix 2). It can be perceived as a conflict of values, social judgment and behavioural standards during interpersonal levels as they've exposed to different ideas. While other ideas can interfere with adaptation and social functions, it can create to have conflicts on the original connotative system (Adair, Okumura, & Brett, 2001). During the university was not so much difficult, but since after I started working, I felt difficulty in meeting new people. It was more different to interface a new cultural environment for me. -Interviewee D In my case, it took 6 months. I felt lonely at the moment and hard to fit in the new environment. – Interviewee E It was just too different that I need time to get friends and get used to the environment. – Interviewee H However, some of the people from group B also showed the view to receive diverse existence, especially from whom were exposed to various cultures by travelling. As "All intellectual improvement arises from leisure." explained by Dr Samuel Johnson (Boswell, 1992), it ascertains the desire to explore the diverse environment may lead them to have a liberal interpretation (see quotes from Appendix 3). The requirement to make a difference resulted in the need for new experiences and experiences to face differences. In particular, environmental conditions must be formed in which personal opinions can more widely be constructed so that they can interpret the differences. While I was living without much thought before I went on a trip, I reflected on my life as I had been exposed to them after the trip. – Interviewee a
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If I go abroad, the way I think will be varied. Realizing the gap between the ideal and the reality, I think I can think of the good things about the present and live a satisfying life. – Interviewee e It was a great opportunity for me to experience other cultures and became a chance to see what’s the difference between my country and others. – Interviewee h …… wanted to experience more cultures of diverse countries by visiting. – Interviewee i I wanted to explore more different countries because experiencing other culture and food, people made me eager to face a different world. – Interviewee j 6.2. Understanding of diversity The result through part 2 questions was designed to investigate how open people are to diversity whereby the environment and to define how much they perceive about variety bounded from fashion. 1.
What do you think of diversity? How knowledgeable you consider yourself on the topic of diversity?
2.
What do you think of diversity in Fashion?
3.
Where are you now, do you think the fashion world is active in promoting diversity?
When both of the participating groups been asked about 'diversity', specifically through the question 1,2 and 3, group A intends to reveal more knowledge about the meaning and the range of diversity like nationality, body shape, sexuality, etc. To give a piecemeal example of this, in case of group A were like (see quotes from Appendix 2) … It is a positive thing. For example, the companies and the society has improved through the diversity. Since I went lots of countries, I can tell I know a lot more than I think. Also, my personality is not discriminative. – Interviewee B
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Personally, I have seen and felt many things after coming to England. It seems to include all individual tastes, thoughts and values, such as race, gender, and diversity of values. Indeed, I am trying to embrace them and change through those. So now I can tell that I know more than others who are in Korea for sure. -Interviewee E It refers to the various race, life, culture, etc. It is an unconventional boundary and doesn’t limit. I know very well about diversity as I am keep thinking about it and I went to diverse countries and met people at there. – Interviewee G And group B were like (see quotes from Appendix 3) … I've searched a little, but I think it's a word that stands for your own personality. I think it's a rather difficult word to define and I don't think I know much about diversity. – Interviewee a I think diversity is literally diverse, like different races are existing. It just means that something exists in a variety of ways. I don't think I know much about diversity. – Interviewee b Maybe something similar? For example, the similar appearance from different countries? I don’t think that I know that much about diversity. – Interviewee c To understand diversity, awareness of the different identities of each is necessary. And this can be defined as the relationship between individuals and groups, which in the same country can be understood by sharing different identities and statuses while simultaneously maintaining other characters (Banks, 2004; Parker, 2003). Likewise, early research from Chao, Kung and Yao (2015) suggested that multicultural exposure enable people to comprehend within social and physical environment implicating on intercultural relations by influencing on individual psychology. Indeed, group A's experience through the multicultural environment provided individuals with diverse and stimulating ideas making conventional thinking more flexible. In point of fact, through the question no. 3's responds, most of group A reacted as the United Kingdom is active
45
in advertising diversity through the fashion by comparing with Korea meanwhile group B replied Korea is close-fisted in revealing various figures. Next, in-depth to the diversity of fashion, the questions were prepared to examine how much they are familiar with social communication and how much they exposed through the media images of those 'diverse' appearances. 11.
Do you have any specific advertisement or the campaign which was interesting or impressive? What was the content about? Why did you think that it was?
12.
Are there any commercials that you don't particularly like?
13.
What will you react if your favourite brand promotes a bigger size or LGBT, plus sized, different national foreigner who’s not white, and disabled model?
It has revealed that most of the participants were using social media and the other channels as their informative instrument. Mostly what they mentioned was ‘Instagram’ and ‘YouTube’, and those were to see the reviews from other posts and other consumers. Being exposed to the digital environment from both Korea and the United Kingdom, various illustrations may encounter them which can support their intangible experience. The results showed that attempts to change the acceptance of diversity and the perception of a universal stereotyped image of itself were largely structured in Group A rather than in Group B. Also, Group A responded positively to having more diverse minorities in the ads, but Group B responded more lukewarmly. However, the results also suggest that responses were greater in the female in both groups' participants as they were more sensitively recognised the problem of lack of diversity in society, especially when they became the ‘object’ (see quotes from Appendix 2). Some of the brands tend to promote Asians as a shopper-holic and plasticised kind of prejudiced ad. Also remember the D&G’s chopsticks. I just hate the ads with showing negatively the particular races. – Interviewee B for Q12 Positive. Showing the mindset that head employees show a willingness to respect diversity provokes a positive image of the brands. – Interviewee B for Q13
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I hate sexual ads. Some of sexual merchandising are too discriminative because men are not usually used as a sexual image but only women. – Interviewee C for Q12 I especially want to avoid brands that make sensational advertisements for women. And advertising with political message or racist content is repugnant. – Interviewee J for Q 12 I think it's a good change. Showing a diverse and realistic image, not a stereotyped one, will have a promotional effect on the brand as well. It is thought that the perception will be even more publicized in the open UK. – Interviewee J for Q13 … I'd dislike watching an ad comparing a fat woman to a thin one. – Interviewee c for Q 12 It doesn't matter if they are wearing matching clothes and advertising. – Interviewee c for Q. 13 I hate advertisements with sexual content. I don't know why they use it even their other different ways to show off except the sexual harassment. – Interviewee g for Q12 It will be fresh since there are not that many brands actually advertising those kinds of models. I don't feel any uncomfortable, but I think it can be either positive or negative around me. – Interviewee g for Q13 It supports Ogden and Mundray (1996)'s an earlier study of the influence of the media in both genders on their body satisfaction. It examined that females had a higher in dissatisfaction on their body image than males while both sexes were not satisfied within their body image. Similar to results, this may commit that fashion with lifestyle is more sensitively facing with females and so fashion industries, specifically, womenswear is developing more rapidly than menswear. Ultimately, they formed a tremendous emotional sympathy for others when it comes to their actions which were experiencing untenable situations and were more closely related to these irrational situations. It implies that females are more stand on the discriminatory environment than males. Therefore, it 47
examined what provokes the alternation on people's psychological basis on being discriminative conditions can be interpreted by how critical they understood of the subject and how many comparable examples did they encounter. 6.3. Authorising the diversity into the personal life The last part is to determine how the actual behaviours have changed through the new stimulus (S and O). Composed questions are asking what the pros and cons are by considering diversity affecting oneself when they are purchasing clothes, thereby specifying their actions how participants interpreted and practising the diversity itself. The last part 3 is to determine how the actual behaviours have changed through the new stimulus (S and O). Composed questions are asking what the pros and cons are to considered diversity affecting oneself when they are purchasing clothes, thereby specifying their actions how participants interpreted and practising the diversity itself. Group A was more focused on how they've changed, whether members in group B has asked their possibility of being modified and if there were other influences can provoke the changes without environmental change conditions. Group A 1. 2.
Group B
Did you have a difference from
1.
when you were in Korea?
atmosphere affects your
What do you see of the advantage
purchases?
of considering diversity when 3.
Do you think the social
2.
Then, do you think having access
your purchasing?
to various cultures will also have
What do you see of the
an impact?
disadvantage of considering
3.
Have you noticed any other
diversity when you purchasing
changes in your recent
garments?
purchasing garments?
Through the research, people in group A wanted to choose clothes that were free of physical constraints and challenges that they had never tried and liked when buying. It can be interpreted as an opportunity to broaden the choices that have been limited to themselves (see quotes from Appendix 2).
48
The purchasing choice has been broadened. I can try the unique style of England that don't have in Korea. And I can't wear some of the clothes are too "opened" because Koreans are quite conservative, but there are times when I wear those kinds in England. – Interviewee B for Q2 I can express who I am without considering the social gazes. – Interviewee D There are no limits on purchasing choices. What I could not try became normal and common here. It is possible for anyone to express freely, not to wear and enjoy only if people have a nice body or appearance. – Interviewee E I can wear what I want and wear the real my size. Don’t have to be the models on the media. – Interviewee H Moreover, some participants felt uncomfortable from where against "diversity," when they made the purchase (see quotes from Appendix 2). Like when I am with friends who are the minorities, I don’t go to stores where not respective on the diversity because I felt sorry for them. – Interviewee B for Q3 I no longer buy advertisements or brands which differentiating people even though the brand is my favourite. – Interviewee H In contrast, group B showed that there were no significant changes in considering diversity in the current society; instead, their alterations occurred in preferences and physical differences. And they were not as much as sensitive to the problem of lack of variety in fashion even though they somehow acknowledge the issue (see quotes from Appendix 3). Notwithstanding they recognised they would be changed if there is a new cultural influence (e.g. Interestingly, one of the participants, who met the feminism in group B aware of the issue similar to group A and indicated that the social behaviours to change.) (see quotes from Appendix 3).
49
Yes, I've heard that in a foreign country people don't care so much about other people's eyes. For example, if you have a belly or are fat, you may wear bikinis or tight clothes. However, even though there is a style I want to try in Korea, the social atmosphere seems to limit me as I become concerned about other people's eyes and the things that others whispering behind my back. Especially if you are fat, you can't wear what you want to wear freely. – Interviewee f It seems to be more important how to permeate than whether to affect or not. It would probably mean little to a culture that is not naturally introduced. For example, if there are issues that everyone can relate to, such as the 'Metoo' case, it would be significant as our society became to face the feminism as western cultures do. – Interviewee i for Q2 I hope that they will create an image that deviates from the patriarchal society. It is sad that female models should be slim, tall, and wear 'pink'. On the contrary, it is hard to see why only women are so limited while male brands have a bit more various physical and external conditions. – Interviewee i for Q8 At the same time, however, differences in clothing arising from employment newly contribute to Joseph and Alex's role theory (1971). They explained that these actions occurred when individuals interacted with a standardised society to 'role' people. By similar responses in both groups, this can support the fact that a person's actions can still be restrained through specific circumstances. Well I really want to change my style as I did when I was at UK, but I cannot as I am working now. Only if I was not working at Korea and the specific working environment, then I may wear more like me, not showing the clean and tidy image. – Interviewee A I will try more designs and colours when I am not working. Also, not to interfere others styling. – Interviewee D As I said earlier, it changed as I got a job and earn money, but I think I have more choices as I change on my way to a given environment. – Interviewee j
50
To sum up, compared to group B tended to be conscious of other people and be sensitive to other people's assessments, group A is shown more relaxed and confident in making new attempts. How participants respond to the replies to the cultural theory of which their confidence and the behavioural outcomes are influenced by where they placed under the different social value.
51
Chapter 7. Conclusion 7.1. Limitations and implication for Future Research First of all, this study is an exploratory study of the acceptance of diversity. However, although this paper is a theoretical contribution, this is still not without some future limitations. First of all, this research is conducted as a qualitative methodology to study how people react to the circumstances whereby it can be subjective. Also, since most of the interviewees were standard people, the results of the professionalism that fits the subject may not have been much clearly reflected; the target to the diversity, individually, minorities' genuine thoughts and reactions cannot be researched through the study. The majority of those interviewed were in their 20s, although the study was careful to include participants with various demographic characteristics. Most of all, since it primarily targeted at Koreans, different reactions may be generated depending on other Asian societies within the collectivistic cultural background. Besides, based on personal experience and influence, responses to experience in situations regarding diversity can also be explained as a result of all these particular personalised processes. Lastly, the critical weakness of this paper is that it focuses on cultural background knowledge and personal experience in interpreting the link between interdependent self-determination as the primary factor influencing co-cultural results. To have a more realistic sample, subsequent studies, therefore, need to focus more on statistical results by expanding population characteristics, including older consumers in more diverse collectivistic cultures and lower-educational consumers and studies are expected to be available in more granular groups such as menswear, womenswear and children's clothing, not in common. 7.2. Final conclusion This research was to examine the reactions through the particular society which has a possibility of a notable trend of the becoming comprehensive fashion industry based on the diverse types of people. Notably, the study is related to the impact of the environmental factors in accommodating the subject of diversity, which on the context of
52
as a leading trend. Among them, research participants who grew up in a more actively accepting cultural environment for variety and a more exclusive cultural environment wanted to explore specific experiences and responses to the phenomenon. First of all, the study defines various fashion figures from British society have influenced Korean society to change their psychological and physical mindset by supporting the idea of Kaiser (2011) explained, how people turned their clothing through their personal experiences made them share the same time and space. Based on the theory of Marcus and Kitayama's (1991), the approach of cultural background and social comparison contributed significantly. Korean society, closer to the collectivism, was comparably closed to the diversity than the British society illustrated as more individualistic. Being Guimond et al. (2007) has defined that social comparison can take place between the group or the individuals, people stayed in the United Kingdom have learnt how to blend into the society by comparing oneself and obtained that acquiring diversity is their new environment's goal so that different values and cues indeed led to mixed reactions. But, opposed to the first expectation which along with Yangda et al. (2014) has defined that human activity recognition is affected by the technological devices, has not been played as a significant role in this study since the study could not specify what kind of contents they encountered. Even though participated research did recognise that media is more releasing various models, what they've mentioned was their relevant surroundings. The analysis is meaningful in that the fashion industry has gained overall insight through more passive groups that focus on the social concepts experienced by existing consumers in the context of securing more diversity. Cultural differences found in previous prior studies were able to identify common differences in people's daily behaviour and their responses, and other issues included psychological and physical changes due to cultural differences, as well as their strategies to cope with inconveniences and benefits in clothing consumption and purchase. As people have appreciated through the approachable environment, it is suggesting that the correction should make one feel a sense of supports vague people in shared areas without feeling more uncomfortable or awkward, rather than tolerating and highlighting social prejudice with providing separate spaces with customers of established sizes. Simultaneously with the physical spaces, also the media advertisements support the maintenance of keep familiarity as part of the no limited space. Moreover, it is believed 53
that it should be escorted from a more open society, such as a persuasive cultural background; a community with a collective characteristic had discomfort with deviating from the social ideology pursued or enforced. This research contributed to strengthening the diversity in nowadays to be more widely accepted to the society. Finally, society has to contribute to forming a culture that respects and values its individuality. If the fashion industry, which is deeply involved in people's lives to accommodate each other more effectively without taking risks on its own, can make even more significant contributions, our society will not easily justify discrimination at the end.
54
Appendixes Appendix 1.
Group A and Group B questionnaires
Group A is composed of Koreans who are currently living in the UK or lived for more than three months that can represent the changed outcomes through the exposure of diversity. Therefore, the interview is based on how and what are the alternations on them under personal experiences. On the other hand, questionnaires for people in group B was outlined for who never been to the UK or have visited less than three weeks so that they keep remained the original cultural backgrounds unaffected. To help their understandings, they were provided in both Korean and English. Table (A). Interview questions for Group A Part 1. (S) surrounding environment of Korean in the UK 1.
(Casual conditions) asking for the age, gender and occupation 나이,성별 및 직업
2.
How long have you been to the UK? 영국에 온지 얼마나 되었나요?
3.
Why did you come here? (e.g. studying, travelling, leisure, etc.) 무엇때문에 여기에 왔습니까?
4.
How do people look around in the UK? 주위에 사는 사람들은 어떻습니까?
5.
Have you lived in other countries before? 다른 나라에서 살아본 적이 있나요?
6.
What are the differences between South Korea and the UK? 한국과 영국의 차이점이 뭐라고 생각하나요?
7.
What do you think is the difference between before and after you come to England? 영국으로 오기 전과 후, 달라진 점이 무엇이라고 생각합니까?
8.
How long does it take to get used to?
55
익숙해지는데 얼마나 걸렸나요? 9.
Could or would you accept the differences if you were to move away? 만약 당신이 다른 곳으로 거처를 옯길 예정이 있다면, 그 차이점들을 받아들일 수 있을 것 같나요?
Part 2. (O) influences through their involvement and individual experience 1.
What do you think of diversity? How knowledgeable you consider yourself on the topic of diversity? 다양성에 대해 어떻게 생각하십니까? 당신은 다양성의 주제에 대해 자신을 얼마나 잘 아는가?
2.
What do you think of diversity in Fashion? 패션에 있어서의 다양성은 무엇이라고 생각하나요?
3.
Where are you now, do you think the fashion industry is active in promoting diversity? 현재 있는 곳이, 패션계가 다양성을 홍보하는데 있어 적극적이라고 생각하나요?
4.
Can you think the example from the fashion industry that promotes diversity? 다양성을 홍보하는 패션계의 예를 생각할 수 있는가?
5.
How often do you use social media? 얼마나 자주 SNS 을 이용합니까?
6.
Do you also use it when you are shopping? 쇼핑을 할 때에도 사용하는 편인가요?
7.
Do you also follow any fashion brands, influencers or celebrities for your shopping? 쇼핑을
위해
브랜드,
연예인
이나
인플루엔서를
팔로우하고
있습니까? 8.
Do you prefer to exchange opinions with people around you before shopping? 쇼핑하기 전 주변 사람들과 의견을 주고받는 편입니까?
9.
Where do you get the most fashion information? 어디에서 가장 많은 패션 정보를 얻는다고 생각하나요?
56
10.
How do you think they are influencing on your purchasing? 구매하는데 있어 어떻게 영향을 끼치는 것 같나요?
11.
Do you have any specific advertisement or the campaign which was interesting or impressive? What was the content about? Why did you think that it was? 흥미로웠거나 기억에 남는 특정 광고나 캠페인이 있나요? 무엇에 대한 광고였나요? 왜 그렇게 생각했나요?
12.
Are there any commercials that you don't particularly like? 광고 중에 특히나 보기 싫은 내용이 있나요?
13.
What will you react if your favourite brand promotes a bigger size or LGBT, plus sized, different national foreigner who’s not white, and disabled model? 만약 당신이 가장 좋아하는 브랜드가 더 큰 사이즈나 LGBT, 더 큰 사이즈, 그리고 백인이 아닌 다른 외국인을 홍보한다면 당신은 어떤 반응을 보일 것인가?
Part 3. (P) behavioural outcome 1.
Did you have a difference from when you were in Korea? 한국에 있을 때와 다른 점이 생겼나요?
2.
What do you see of the advantage of considering diversity when your purchasing? 옷을 살 때 다양성을 고려하는 것의 이점은 무엇인가?
3.
What do you see of the disadvantage of considering diversity when you purchasing garments? 옷을 살 때 다양성을 고려하는 것의 단점은 무엇인가?
4.
What else comes to mind when it comes to your purchasing choices? 당신의 구매 선택에 관해서라면 또 무엇이 떠오르는가?
5.
What's the difference between your recent purchases? (specific reasons) 최근 구매한 옷이 이전과 달라진 점을 무엇인가요?
6.
What has changed for you? 이에 따라 자신에게 있어 달라진 점은 무엇인가요?
57
7.
If you did decide to change due to the British fashion influence, what would you do to make this happen? 만약 당신이 영국 패션의 영향 때문에 바꾸기로 결정한다면, 당신은 이것을 실현시키기 위해 무엇을 할 것인가?
8.
How would you describe life be different if others would like to move from Korea to the UK? 만약 다른 사람들이 한국에서 영국으로 이주하기를 원한다면 당신은 인생이 어떻게 다르다고 묘사할 것인가?
Table (B).
Interview questions for Group B
Part 1. (S) surrounding environment of Korean in South Korea 1.
(Casual conditions) asking for the age, gender and occupation 나이,성별 및 직업
2.
How would you describe Koreans? 한국인들을 표현하자면?
3.
Have you lived in other countries before? 다른 나라에서 살아본 적이 있나요?
4.
Or have you gone for travelling to other countries? 다른 나라로 여행을 가본 적이 있나요?
5.
What are the differences between South Korea and the other countries where you’ve visited? 한국과 가본 적이 있는 나라의 차이점이 뭐라고 생각하나요?
6.
How long does it take to get used to? 익숙해지는데 얼마나 걸렸나요?
7.
What do you think will be the difference between before and after you went to other countries? 다른
나라로
가기
전과
후,
생각합니까?
58
달라진
점이
무엇일
것이라고
8.
Could or would you accept the differences if you were to move away? 만약 당신이 다른 곳으로 거처를 옯길 예정이 있다면, 그 차이점들을 받아들일 수 있을 것 같나요?
Part 2. (O) influences through their involvement and individual experience 1.
What do you think of diversity? How knowledgeable you consider yourself on the topic of diversity? 다양성에 대해 어떻게 생각하십니까? 당신은 다양성의 주제에 대해 자신을 얼마나 잘 아는가?
2.
What do you think of diversity in Fashion? 패션에 있어서의 다양성은 무엇이라고 생각하나요?
3.
Where are you now, do you think the fashion world is active in promoting diversity? 현재 있는 곳이, 패션계가 다양성을 홍보하는데 있어 적극적이라고 생각하나요?
4.
Can you think the example from the fashion industry that promotes diversity? 다양성을 홍보하는 패션계의 예를 생각할 수 있는가?
5.
How often do you use social media? 얼마나 자주 SNS 을 이용합니까?
6.
Do you also use it when you are shopping? 쇼핑을 할 때에도 사용하는 편인가요?
7.
Do you also follow any fashion brands, influencers or celebrities for your shopping? 쇼핑을
위해
브랜드,
연예인
이나
인플루엔서를
팔로우하고
있습니까? 8.
Do you prefer to exchange opinions with people around you before shopping? 쇼핑하기 전 주변 사람들과 의견을 주고받는 편입니까?
9.
Where do you get the most fashion information? 어디에서 가장 많은 패션 정보를 얻는다고 생각하나요?
10.
How do you think they are influencing on your purchasing?
59
구매하는데 있어 어떻게 영향을 끼치는 것 같나요? 11.
Do you have any specific advertisement or the campaign which was interesting or impressive? What was the content about? Why did you think that it was? 흥미로웠거나 기억에 남는 특정 광고나 캠페인이 있나요? 무엇에 대한 광고였나요? 왜 그렇게 생각했나요?
12.
Are there any commercials that you don't particularly like? 광고 중에 특히나 보기 싫은 내용이 있나요?
13.
What will you react if your favourite brand promotes a bigger size or LGBT, plus sized, different national foreigner who’s not white, and disabled model? 만약 당신이 가장 좋아하는 브랜드가 더 큰 사이즈나 LGBT, 더 큰 사이즈, 그리고 백인이 아닌 다른 외국인을 홍보한다면 당신은 어떤 반응을 보일 것인가?
Part 3. (P) behavioural outcome 1.
Do you think the social atmosphere affects your purchases? 사회적 분위기가 당신의 구매에 영향을 끼친다고 생각합니까?
2.
Then, do you think having access to various cultures will also have an impact? 그럼 다양한 문화를 접하는 것 또한 영향을 끼칠 것 같나요?
3.
Have you noticed any other changes in your recent purchasing garments? 최근 옷을 소비하는 동안 변화가 있었나요?
4.
When did you notice that it has changed? 언제 변했다고 느꼈나요?
5.
What are the reasons or motivations for your purchase? 구매하게 된 계기나 동기가 무엇인가요?
6.
What is the brand of clothes you bought most recently? Is there anything else that's different from before? 가장 최근에 구매한 옷 브랜드는 무엇인가요? 이전과 달라진 점이 있나요?
7.
If so, what is it about? 만약 달라졌다면, 무엇 때문입니까?
60
8.
Is there anything you want to improve on the image of Korean brands’ promoting? 한국
브랜드의
홍보
이미지에
있으십니까?
61
대해
개선하고자
하는
사항이
INFORMATION SHEET How 21st century’s UK Apparel sizing and fashion model’s identity promote diversity in South Korean society
You are being invited to take part in a research project. Before you accept to participate it is important for you to understand why the research is being done and what it will involve. This is a study about the attempts to define the relationship between the cultural influences of the different two representative demographics: The United Kingdom and South Korea. The study involves the idea of co-cultural connection is due to several inferences, therefore as the United Kingdom is an international and multi-cultural country and homogenous South Korea will be affected to be open to the diversity by encountering various personages if they get accessed to British culture. You will be asked to answer about your personal and cultural background information about how you encounter into the society, and then, will specifically be requested within the diversity as of how much you are recognisable into the subject to see whether if it affected on your personal life. You can also request for the questionaries before you participating the interview. The entire study will take around 30 minutes to an hour of your time. And I am collecting participants from 1 of February to the end of the February (28th). Please note that this research is entirely conducted voluntarily for your time. If you do decide to take part you will be given this information sheet to keep (and be asked to sign a consent form). All the information that we collect about you during the course of the research will be kept strictly confidential. You will not be able to be identified in any reports or publications. There are no associated risks with this study. However, if any issues arise, please bring them to the attention of the researcher. Participants also have the right to withdraw within 2 weeks of the test being conducted without prejudice and without providing a reason. In the event of withdrawal, data already provided will be deleted. We would like to thank you very much for taking part in this project. Your collaboration is very much appreciated.
Researcher contact details: Yunjin Lee sd16y3l@leeds.ac.uk
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