Kiehl's Cafe Lab
Research Portfolio BA Fashion Marketing Semester 1 201064152 Yunjin Lee
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Kiehl's Cafe Lab
KIEHL 2
L'S
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Kiehl's new business of launching cafe with skincare service for men
Kiehl's Cafe Lab
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Kiehl's Cafe Lab
Contents
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This report will cover an overview of the Kiehl’s new business and marketing strategy for the proposed research brief and objectives. The market environment will be analysed by using PEST framework with competitors’ analysis to investigate the market’s future opportunity. Kiehl’s target customer groups will be then investigated from primary research and secondary research date using three example profiles. Subsequently, as the concept is consistent within two different businesses, the marketing mix strategy will implement the elements within beauty industry and the café marketing. The next part will deal with the financial statement with business planning timetable to see the overall framework. To conclude, expected value of this Kiehl’s cafe will be mentioned to ensure the realizable plan of the business.
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Introduction
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Concept of project Wellness is a big thing! Collaborations being Delicious :p Gender Equality Rise of Expressing "myself" Grooming Market Boom
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Target Market International Students Middle-class Britains Post-holiday Customers
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Business Planning
Bibliography
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Competitors analysis Indirect Direct
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Financial statement
Reference
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Market Research Wellness is a big thing! Collaborations being Delicious :p Gender Equality Rise of Expressing "myself" Grooming Market Boom
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Marketing Mix strategy Product Place Price Promotion
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Conclusion
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Kiehl's Cafe Lab
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he business of nowadays is more like to symbiosis with their customers so that what company offers would be more “individualized to meet particular needs, situations and lifestyles.” (Flores. 1993. p.95). These thoughtful requirements being prepared the companies to develop new practical abilities and redesigned strategies to work through business processes. Nevertheless, recent customers’ educated high expectations inside the services have boosted the conduct of the business in more updated and exceptional (Hyken. 2016). Mike Burkland (2016), the CEO of Five9 states “ C o n s u m e r s e x p e c t a g re a t experience and this new release ensures that contact centres have the communication channels they need to engage with customers on their terms.”. In particular, listing to their customers is the essential factor more than ever for their innovative movements and the rising trends commonly follow this response.
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Introduction 9
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Kiehl's Cafe Lab
Concept of Project
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t a r t e d f r o m N e w Yo r k 165 years ago, it started f ro m K i e h l ’s P h a r m a c y. While the brand built their fame with their service and the product, then its representative symbols, motorcycle and the skeleton, have displayed in every single Kiehl’s store (Pai. 2017). The overall concept of this project is based on having a positive impact on unbiased social regarding male’s beauty business. Within a preferred brand providing skincare services in a familiar place will effectively contribute to releasing their feelings of wariness. As being loved by all men and women for a long time, this paper assumes that Kiehl's is a decent brand for this project to target men as a core group within the new world of beauty.
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USP
1. providing open experiences to the niche market customers 2. Embraces diversity to allow people to share and immerse themselves in male’s grooming market 3. Hybrid innovation 4. Friendly place community café with skincare service
Mission_ Beauty for All
“Offering all women and men worldwide the best of cosmetics innovation in terms of quality, efficacy and safety to satisfy all their desires and all their beauty needs in their infinite diversity.” (Loreal. 2018).
Strategy_ Ubiquitous By the vision of the world, it is to offer and meet beauty inspirations within differences in desires, needs and traditions.
Goal “Being a leader both economically and socially” (Loreal. 2018). It is to provide smoother approachability and experimental services, especially for men customers. So that not only purchasing and using the products but also implementing the source of a long-term self-care. Lack of confidence and openness is the next consideration. 11
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Market Research
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All business is now facing a huge transformation into the Fourth Industrial Revolution. This external environment is to be not the same as the past moves, but “…unlike anything humankind has experienced before.” (Schwab. 2016). Along with the large variations, the business has never been without the latest market research. According to what this research approaches what the industry is planning to will have to concentrate on the changes around the world by following the ideas and has to predict the trend-flow. On the basis of the macro-trend environmental research and data collected through “factors affecting the organisation are not just identified but are also assessed” (Oxford College of Marketing. 2018), it has investigated by PESTEL analysis to create a possible business plan and marketing.
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Wellness is a big thing! figure8
The life being healthy has been importantly spotlighted among the consumers' value on health and wellness within the evolvement. This states, that their era in which so many choices are close to a "holistic states of being" (Weinswing. 2017) which are including enjoyment and flaunt. Including skin, as part of the body organs, it opposes from a gender so that physiologically men and women have contrasts in several skin appendages (Luebberding and et al., 2013; Giacomoni et al., 2009).
However, according to the study by NCRI 2018 Cancer Conference in Glasgow, the skin cancer deaths are on the mounting problem within over 50% of causes. Notably, it has shown growth from the European countries (Prinzivalli. 2018). And authorities do announce that this is caused by the early skin care habits between the boys and girls such as applying for the UV protection (Sobel, no date. Cited by Prinzivalli. 2018). For customers who want their skin concerns to be resolved or who want to prevail their life be healthy, part of concerning about the male skincare routine would be essential.
"Men now Have a higher rate of skin cancer deaths than women" (Prinzivalli. 2018)
70% Spain & Britain
60% - Netherlands 50% - France and Belgium
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Collaborations being Delicious :p
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t was the year for fashion brands collaborate with the food industry. The reason for fashion brands is having a collaboration with the food industry is due to "it feeds the fantasy that food can bring us together, serving as the great democratizing equalizer within a capitalist structure," (Sen. 2018) by blending consumers outweighing their social standing, the food brings them as the [same] common denominator. So that customers would remind their memories within food into the person they are familiar and who may want to become. However, it depends on how they advertise the message. Eventually, theses food-fashion collaborations are “serving new sources of revenue for the brands, attracting a dose of fresh publicity, and turning fans into moving advertisements.� (Sedacca. 2018).
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Gender Equality During the late twentieth time, the argument of gender equality has been a major issue on the global agenda. And in every society, gender equality scales got extensive. Ignited from the expansion of women's literacy and educational opportunities when the early industrialization, their social growth is now on multi-layered within the "societal modernization" (Inglehart and Norris. 2011). Notably, the mass media and the cultural values have an immense impact on nowadays diversity in various fields of life values alike selfexpression and individualism. For example, the beauty products or the vocab including ‘beauty’ has been [negative] among the males and they feel very uncomfortable. Despite, the beauty industry keeps working to allow males and its market is explosively growing; they are changing their attitudes among the beauty products and more conduce to use cosmetics (Elsner. 2012). 15
Kiehl's Cafe Lab
Rise of expressing “myself�
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elfie-taking and posting have been raised for the most common activities and this has been one of the methods to present oneself. However, there was a denunciation that objectifying own 'selfie' activities are associated with body-concerns and disordered eating, especially with women and girls (Cohen, Newton-John and Slater, 2018). Then why people keep uploading their photographs? While it has a negative influence, this selfexposure is related to their self-esteem and their current characteristics. Not surprisingly, as one of the most important components of mental health issue, self-esteem theory states that judgements of what others think of oneself influence on the formation of their recognition (Rosenberg et al., 1989). Along with the theory, recent studies revealed that selfie-posting actually to helped them to improve their selfesteem (Porch, 2015; Pounders et al., 2016). Having a positive emotion may not only be correlated to the body image, but it may also help to build their self-confidence. Furthermore, along with the self-esteem, Millennials are being represented as "narcissistic" more than earlier generations. It's clear to simplify as they are self-centred and being elation due to the
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continual media exposure. In the case of the male, the present research about the selfie behaviours, their selfie has a tendency ties on promoting themselves (Kim and Chock, 2015; Boursier and Manna, 2018). However, they were "exceptionally generous generation that holds great promise for improving the world" (Arnett. 2013). Therefore, whilst overwhelming selfie posting may be reflected as they are being assertive, it was their own means to support each other by "likes" within a new culture and generation.
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Kiehl's Cafe Lab
Market research should never be underestimated. Many successful new businesses enjoy longevity because their owners conduct regular market research to understand their target market, identify consumer problems and pinpoint realistic competitors (British Library. 2019). 18
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Target Markets 19
Kiehl's Cafe Lab
1) International Students International students are usually from different countries or cities in different climates and environments. After deciding to study abroad or moving to another city for the further studies, it indicates their surrounding environments are shifting. Within sudden variations, the skin reveals a signal. Having an issue on their skin condition is common amongst them, particularly Asians, due to the different water condition and the different temperatures (Insider Guides. 2018). To define, the United Kingdom is well known for a very humid country where has a low humidity environment can affect the skin condition barriers (Egawa et al., 2002; Rouleau. 2015).
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Karly Wang 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Age: 20 Location: Leeds Gender: Male Income level: No income (parents supports) Education level: undergraduate Marital or family status: Middle class Occupation: international student Ethnic background: Asian Interest: Fashion, photograph, history Hobbies: Watch movie, reading Dislikes: Outdoor recreation Motivations: Self actualization Attitudes: X Behaviours: X Challenges: Learn to consume moderately Lifestyle preferences: Metropolitan Needs: relaxing place 20
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Middle class Britain
UK ranked on one of the top 10 economically developed country in the world, by after there were USA, China, Japan for the rest of the top-ranked worlds (FullFact. 2017; Boumphrey. 2010). Also, the United Kingdom has shown the statistically higher demand for goods and services in a market as top 10 in the world (Euromonitor Research. 2017). Middle-class consumers are the target of the business due to their large size and the spending power. According to the Euromonitor International (2015), the middle-class consumers are defined as “they are the foundation of the consumer market” and tend to have “increasingly health-aware and eco-friendly” attitudes toward on purchasing (Euromonitor International. 2015). They would be the pioneer to adapt in order to tap into the market opportunity.
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Jay Lee 1. Age: 26 2. Location: London, United Kingdom 3. Gender: Male 4. Income level: Mid-wage 5. Education level: Master 6. Marital or family status: Engaged 7. Occupation: Diplomat 8. Ethnic background: Far East Asian 9. Interest: Politics, Economics, Society, Liverpool Football Club, Exercising 10. Hobbies: Playing Frisbee, football, piano, going art gallaries & museums and traveling 11. Dislikes: Being veggie, Manchester United 12. Motivations: Fame and fortune. 13. Attitudes: Criticism but trying to stay positive. 14. Behaviours: Eyes to eyes, teeth to teeth. 15. Challenges: Making the world better place to live. 16. Lifestyle preferences: Keep in faith in family. 17. Needs: Steady.
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3) Post-holiday Customers Primarily for the British people, the leisure means a time to search tropical sunshine. Due to the often rain and the cloudy weather, it’s rare to enjoy the sunny days. Even though spending too much time under the sun directly related to skin cancer (probably), there is no certainty for all of the people will have skin damage. Meanwhile, still, there are a lot of ways summer do damage our skins – sunburns, roughness and pigmentation. Prevention is always the best option, but it’s hard to make it as their daily routine. Dr Ronald Moy (2017), the founder of DNA renewal, mentioned that the redness which is the same as sunburn and roughness is the sign which skin showing the “signs of DNA damage to the skin” and it can further be the “precancerous lesions” (Murray. 2017).
Thomas Brown 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Age: 19 Location: Live in Milton Keynes, Study at Leeds Gender: Male Income level: Not working (parents support) Education level: undergraduate Marital or family status: Single Occupation: Student Ethnic Background: White British Interest: Music and fashion Hobbies: Football, watching films and going out clubbing Dislikes: Uncooked Cheese and feet Motivations: Doing things not sat in bed Attitudes: Not terrible work ethic Behaviours: Consistent Challenges: to be organised and fiscally efficient Lifestyle preferences: I love the upper middle life but cannot afford it Needs: a good consistent diet and plenty of Tea, and club money.
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Targeting, or “segmenting� these people means you’ll be able to build your store for the right audience, efficiently using your resources to impress and attract your potential customers (Ferenzi. 2018). 23
Kiehl's Cafe Lab
Comp
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Indirect
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According to male consumers, their buying routes are varied, therefore the indirect competitors are diverse. There are Nero, Starbucks, and Costa for the position of Cafes which have most of the customers; these are the leading representative cafes in London. In the case of the retailing, the grooming products are supplied by drugstores, department stores, direct retail stores and so on. However, they are not providing skin care treatments which will be having the difference with Kiehl's. In otherwise, specifically, Harry’s have a notable success by providing a subscription service to male customers on online marketing.
Direct For their direct rivals, there are 'Aveda pure Café' in Japan and 'Aveda Men’s Grooming – Hotel&Spas' in London. As Aveda is one of the most active brands which practices their brand theme- “TO CARE FOR THE WORLD WE LIVE IN, FROM THE PRODUCTS WE MAKE TO THE WAYS IN WHICH WE GIVE BACK TO SOCIETY.” (Aveda. 2018), the brand itself intends to provide natural beauty to customers. A pure cafe is selling vegan treats within their brand name. Also, in London, a barbershop service targeting male customers by using their products.
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petitors Analysis Any businesses or sales face with their rival which against with its similar service and product or with approved strategies. And between these competitions are the being an influence which can affect on the interactive process on “individual, and thereby organizational, perceptions and experience” (Bengtsson and Kock, 1999) so that can develop and expand its business through the experience and the competitive impacts. As Kiehl’s is opening multi-business, their competitors are not straightly focused but exist as their rivalry. As the market aiming the male’s beauty industry, there are competitive precedents in other countries where people are more concerning their grooming and health.
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CONSOLIDATION OR MARKET PENETRATION
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
MARKET DEVELOPMENT
DIVERSIFICATION
The new market refreshing its brand image as the food retailer while continuing previous beauty business can be described by Ansoff's Matrix - market development and diversification. By switching their target customer group, market development will seek for a new business extension and diversification will consider the challenges in new fields.
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[Product, Place, Price, and Promotion]
Managing the marketing strategies will outline how Kiehl's new business intends to investigate the existing market and potential customers. The beginning steps in devising a strategy are "to define the marketing objectives the business wishes to achieve, set out principal strategic targets and establish the time-frame in which they should be accomplished." (Posner. 2011. p. 40).
Marketing Mix Strategy 26
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Product The products would be the same as the original stores and the online sales. Meanwhile, as it is more based on the skincare services and the cafĂŠ operation, there will be only best-selling plus the male products displayed inside. Upon the male skincare routine which explained on the web homepage, products would be arrayed [step-by-step] to make sure that it is simple to recognize by the customers.
Skincare products - Cleanse - Exfoliate - Tome - Treat - moisturiser
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Kiehl's Cafe Lab
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- Coffee - Espresso classics - Tea & others - snacks
Café products There is a similar cafe in China named as Kiehl's cafe which paralleled with cafe service and product sale shop. Along with the original Kiehl’s Café in China, the overall spreads will be similar to regular cafes and the original one. But, there will be the Britain specialities included compare with the Chinese one to compose a difference.
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Skincare services As the core and generic service of this project, this will provide customers with “benefits and emotional meanings” (Posner. 2011) while they are experiencing the services. What the service is paying attention to is that customers feel the effects of a single experience later feel gradual value from the service, then receive further positive view in recent years. It also increases accessibility by the basic and most primary services that allow major customers to be male and focus on time-consuming services. It then provides more professional services to create a loyal customer base.
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Quick skin condition solution Skin care treatment Skin care consultation Annual & monthly skincare treatment
Place FOR ITS MISSION AND VALUABLE CONCEPT TO HAVE CONCURRED, SELECTING THE MAIN LOCATION IS CRITICAL TO MATCH WITH THEIR CENTRE. BASED UPON THE RIGHT TIME AND THE RIGHT PRODUCT TO REACH THEIR TARGET CUSTOMERS; TERMED AS ‘ROUTE TO MARKET’ (POSNER, 2011.P, 46), THE PLACE HAS TO BE CONNECTED TO THE CULTURAL DIVERSITY AND SETTLED FROM THE COMMERCIAL AREAS.
DISTRIBUTION
SALES CHANNELS With these preconditions, full of its diversity settlements and the popularity amongst the populated London is fit. Plus, London is nowadays growing investment city from overseas' demands from the market changing Asian countries, specifically, South Korea and Hong Kong (McCarthy. 2018). While Brexit is in anxiety and as the market is establishing its root in the UK, it is virtual to look after for long-term investors to be prepared for the future and the market growth overlaps; “Asia offers superior returns compared to impact investing in other regions because of “the size of the population and the macro outlook”.” (Tang. 2018, cited by Noonan. 2018).
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Kiehl's Cafe Lab
DISTRIBUTION (STORE)
Inside the London, there are two opportunities for the particular locations - Soho and the St James’s. Firstly, Soho is the mecca of the shopping in London (tripadvisor. 2013) where attracts people's attention more than any other sites. Since it's nearby the Piccadilly Circus station, the accessibility and publicizing are outstanding as many businessmen and tourists walk through this place. With a total floor plan of about 1500sqft, over one-floor rental is £52,700.00, including vat. Next, St James's is where the menswear mecca 'Jermyn Street' (appearhere. 2018) nearby so that well-dressed and tidy male customers would visit. In case of the Bury Street near to the Jermyn Street, the two floors plan within 1200sqft is for £90,240.58, including vat.
St James's
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SOHO
ONLINE HOMEPAGE SNAPCHAT FACEBOOK
OMNI-CHANNELS
There are web homepage, media channels like Snapchat, Facebook, and Instagram to keep connecting with customers and the company. Being it is for providing the individual service and the product, the direct purchasing route will be only available from the storehouse. However, the customers can still be connected via online-service channels by sustain presenting its updated new services and information. Primarily, they would help customers for booking their places for experiencing and asking for questions which be connected with a store.
EMAIL INSTAGRAM figure34
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Price The key factor for customers whether deciding to purchase the products is on what value they would perceive. Further, Kiehl's cafe pricing tactics have to factor in its expenses on business processing such as store renting, competitor's pricing strategy, inventory-holding and management of all the staffs. Therefore, based on the market environment and potential customer research and to make a profit, it must implement a customer value-added pricing strategy. Kiehl's cafe will operate within “CustomerBased Pricing” strategy which grounded on what customers the most value; “customers don’t care how much something cost you to make or your competitors, they care how much value they’re receiving at a particular price.” (Guo. 2012). Customers will affordable by the entry-level products and services and, as prices go up, they will receive a personal exclusivity by premium products and services which represent the generic and expected value.
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Top-price product
Price Architecture
(£100 -£200)
Annual membership service
Premium-price product (£50-£99) premium products and services (skincare treatment services and basis on personalised subscription service)
Mid-price product (£16-£49) best-selling products
Lowest-price product (£0-£15) coffee, tea, other small treats, free skincare consultants 33
Kiehl's Cafe Lab
Promotion Advertising is a key of the marketing to attract people to be their customers and to notify brand’s message. To capitalise on this business into the public interest, it has to create its own ‘patronage scheme’. Then it has to consider its stakeholders who can decide rather business can meet the enablers' needs (Fraser,2012).
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- PLACARDS
It is for out-of-store advertising by using a placard will allow a notice in public places by a small card, sign, or plaque. By using a small figure allocated on the street and the park efficiently, it will allow the public to notice their existence. Plus, with an enjoyable event that actual customers can participate, it will stimulate target customers' psychological impacts.
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NOVELTY
Novelty, small relative products as a component of effective advertising, is a pertinence message which brand is offering to transfer “more pleasure to customers” for more innovative advertising (Sameti and Khalili. 2017. p.527). It also can be marking their brand identity and the value in a more pleasant approach.
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DIRECT EMAIL CAMPAGIN
Most of its fame has been mounted up by Kiehl's faithful customers. Accordingly, it is essential for the brand to take care of them and its marketing should allow them to notice about them firstly. Therefore, priority benefits such as discount coupons and free trial coupons will be given for the existing subscribers via sending information on new businesses through e-mail and application.
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VENDING MACHINE ADVERTISING
The vending machine is everywhere these days without resting so that it makes one of the most traditional and direct forms of advertising changing into the one most creative and direct position. As a “body advertising” (Procool. No date), it provides “the prominent appearance” and “eye-catching” attractions which enable consumers to recognize their brands at a glance with interests.
OTHERS
• Influencer marketing • Application campaign • Free coupon from the retail store consumers • Window displays • Fashion digital campaigns
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Kiehl's Cafe Lab
Business Planning Novelty gifts from Kiehl's retailing stores
store contract
MAY
Video advertising
2019 JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
*Cafe Open
*skincar Social media promotion
Vending machine advertising Interior & construction ends
Direct email campaign for discount Fashion Press issue Influencer advertising and openning party
Opening discount events 38
2020 NOV
DEC
JAN
FEB
re service open
Collect customers' feedbacks
coupons Fashion Press issue
Seasonal discount events 39
MAR
APR
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Financial Statement Wages Skincare specialist 2 Skincare consultant & staff 3 Barista 2 Beauty counter manager
: £ 503,408.00 : £ 408,000.00 : £ 45,000.00 : £ 30,000.00 : £ 20,000.00
Rental Space with equipment
: £ 263,500.00
Marketing costs : £ 37,350.00 LEFT Productions video advertising : £ 15,600.00 (Left Productions.2017). Social media channels advertising : £ 5,540.57 + additional press coverage, printing and other additional cost Inventory costs
: £ 1,088,200.00
Production costs
: £ 1,892,458.00 (+a)
Conceptualising as a café form from the cosmetic business to open up new opportunities will undertake overall financial consideration over £ 1 million. The highest division of investment i s l a b o u re r s ’ w a g e s a n d t h e marketing costs and inventory holding costs because these are the core factors to ensure the completion of Kiehl’s café. However, bias on the Loreal cash flow, the Kiehl’s operational division can be up to 5% in total (£ 6,253,000.00) so that the financial statement below is flexible.
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Conclusion
KIEHL 42
KIEHL' In theory, when the company decided to create a new challenge to match the appropriate market growth, eventually it aims to lead the successful business with the right economics at the end. The value of this strategy is to widen the range of being diversity and comprehensive, not to reclaim how they look like. However, customers usually open to receive the new product and service emerge as the “blah blah blah on steroids” (Sabet. 2014). When the business goes wrong, then eventually, only focusing on the competitive market share disappoints the public. Mukti Khaire (2013), professor of Harvard Business School, gave the question through the case study - “Will Professionals Demand its Performance?”. While the society requires for a new invention, it should not only stop on production. The mission is how to invite these up-to-date “professionals” into a new market. It is why that the message it's bringing to the public should be careful. Again, while the new marketing project realisation is difficult, this project is even facing on niche market launching. Radically, it is difficult to predict somewhat the
L'S 43
customers actually going to be their target consumers. Moreover, it is blurred if it can survive as a newly developing market position from between the competitors. Now it's getting intense to launch new male cosmetics lines form the other brands with more diverse products and services. Even so, the Kiehl's new cafe launching with male customers skincare service will bring a new sensation to the industry. Consequently, the way we need to change their perception is not only being acceptable, but it’s also important to them to accept how they want to and this project is expected to open a new era for mutual customers as a pioneer of the male skincare only if the business is welcomed.
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Bibiliography, References and Images 44
Bibliography British Fashion Council. No date. Future of Fashion. [online]. [Accessed on 27/12/2018]. Available from: http://www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/uploads/files/1/BFC_Future_of_Fashion_v9_lo_res.pdf Fabregas, K. 2018. Omnichannel & Multicahnnel Retail Ultimate Guide. [online]. [Accessed on 26/12/2018]. Available from: https://fitsmallbusiness.com/omnichannel-multichannel-retailing/ Jarret, C. 2017. Millennials are narcissistic? The evidence is not so simple. [online]. [Accessed on 21/12/2018]. Available from: http://www.bbc.com/future/story/20171115-millenials-are-the-mostnarcissistic-generation-not-so-fast Qiu, L., Lu, J., Yang, S., Qu, W. and Zhu, T. (2015). What does your selfie say about you?. Computers in Human Behavior, 52, pp.443-449. Loreal. 2018. 2017 Annual Results. [online]. [Accessed on 28/12/2018]. Available from: https://www. loreal-finance.com/_docs/fichiers_contenu/0000000971/LOREAL_Resultats_2017_EN_2018_02_08. pdf
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