brownbook issue 13 by Zena Adhami

ftc@ftc.com.lb BOSS Black

NOW OPEN IN DUBAI MALL www.binhendi.com

BinHendi Avenue, Deira City Centre +971 4 2953301 Mall of the Emirates +971 4 3410630 Burjuman +971 4 3557845 Mercato +971 4 3422021 Jumeirah Beach Hotel +971 4 3486361/3486365 Dubai Festival City +971 4 2326411 Dubai Mall +971 4 4341400

ZOOEY DESCHANEL

M AT T C O S TA

A FILM BY AUTUMN DE WILDE PRODUCED BY

OLIVER PEOPLES N O W S H O W I N G AT W W W. O L I V E R P E O P L E S . C O M

NEW YORK

LOS ANGELES

TOKYO

OFFICE LECTURE TALKS

LOVE

CINEMA

CREATE

INVENT

WWW.SHELTER.AE AL QOUZ

//// OFFICE RENTAL //// BRASSERIE //// STORE //// CINEMA ////

FEBRUARY 2009

LAUNCH

The Shelter is a creative cluster that offers young professionals a platform to take their profession and creativity further. Located in a strategic area close to Al Barsha & Al Qouz, The Shelter is the first of its kind to advance the creative development of Dubai and the Greater Emirates. EXCLUSIVE PARTNER

‫ﻏﺮﻓــﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻈﻠﻤﺔ!‬

‫ﺻﺎﻟﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﺮﺽ!‬ ‫ﺗﺼﻮﻳﺮ ﺍﻟﻔﻮﺗﻮﻏﺮﺍﻓﻲ!‬ ‫ﻃــﺒــﺎﻋــﺔ ﻳـﺪﻭﻳﺔ!‬

‫ﺇﺳﺘﻮﺩﻳﻮﻫﺎﺕ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﺮﺳﻢ‪ ،‬ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﺍﻷﺑﻌﺎﺩ ﺍﻟﺜﻼﺛﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻭ ﺻﺎﻟﺔ ﻣﺎﻙ!‬

‫ﺇﺳــﺘـﻮﺩﻳﻮ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﻤﺠﻮﻫﺮﺍﺕ!‬

‫ﺗﺸـﻜــﻴﻞ ﻳﺆﺛﺮ ﻫﻜﺬﺍ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺍﻟﻨﺎﺱ‪.‬‬

Al Qasba is sparing no efforts in developing the destination and transforming it into the ultimate cultural, entertainment, tourism and family destination of the region. The destination has helped in boosting tourism in the UAE, and particularly in the Emirates of Sharjah. In middle of the year 2008, the restaurants and outlets located at Al Qasba have recorded a percent increase in sales, and we would like to thank all the restaurants and outlets who helped in achieving these results, said Al Sarkal.

4PVL "M #BIBS %PXOUPXO #VSK %VCBJ 5FMFQIPOF

OPSNBOO ] BSFBXBSF] BSUFDOJDB ] TVDL VL ] LJESPCPU ] EPNFTUJD ] EJO [ ] NPEFSO BNVTFNFOU FZFXFBS ] MB NBJTPO EF MPMB XIJNTZ ] XIJTI ] OPPLB ] QPLFUP ] PSJHJOBM QFOHVJO FZFXFBS ] [BLFF TIBSJGG ] UJWPMJ BVEJP ] CMVF R ] B QFBDF USFBUZ ] OQX

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Fashion in the middle east Profiles from the fashion Industry Sticking to brownbookâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s philosophy, an urban guide to the middle east, we wanted to give you a different angel on our profile section. Instead of just featuring fashion designers (which we did) we go in depth and talk to the fashion consumers, the store keepers, the fashion teachers, editors of fashion magazines, models, fashion photographers and get their insight on what is happening in the fashion industry in the Middle East. What can be improved? How is politics effecting fashion? and the future of fashion in the region.

O33

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Fashion Designer Leyla Bayram

O34

brownbook magazine

Photographer: Idil Jans

Being one of the pioneering three designers at her company, Leyla Bayram is a Turkish Fashion Designer that belongs to a big fashion house. Her spot is coveted by thousands but her designs and immense talent guarantees her position. “When I am working on creating new designs, my most important rule is to force my creativity and my own limits in a balanced manner. Usability is very important for me. It might be difficult to create, but it’s my golden rule. After all, I’m a professional fashion designer and I’ve got a goal.” She is known to be uniquely in mine and her designs need to be wearable. “I don’t create my collections based on dreams, I’m influenced by politics, the economy, global warming, natural disasters. Our psychology is influenced every day by all these external problems. This reflects in my work. Balancing reality and dreams is my job.” Trailing on a philosophical note, Leyla shares, “It’s a little bit like birds; it doesn’t matter how high they fly, at one point or another they always end up touching the ground once they arrive at their destination. This is the reality of life. The moment a design becomes reality, it is like the bird has touched ground. Nothing can stay up in the air or uncertain otherwise it will

have no meaning left to it.” Her passion reflects her drawings and in her way of life. She’s saddened by the fact that although there is young talent there, the established players leave little or no space for new life to breathe. Leyla explains, “Unfortunately, they do not renew themselves enough. It’s always the same designs and the same people which define the word stylist. I’m not a stylist though, I’m a fashion designer.” “Fashion has become a designer’s business and all over the world people want to buy designer clothes now. I don’t believe that stylists or designers shape fashion; though, I believe that the end consumer does. I don’t create collections to what I think fashion should look like, I create them with what the consumer wants and likes, which is the end what fashion is really about. I think that the new generation of designers are very well informed on that matter, old school working methods will fade away and give way to newer methods and refreshed styles,” she maintains. Leyla stresses on the importance of forming the young designers of tomorrow in a legitimate way, giving a nod to the universities and schools who specifically educate them to shape the future fashion market.

O35

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Fashion Consumer Sira Rabb Cerrahoglu

O36

brownbook magazine

“I don’t see anything I really like amongst the local designers community. I don’t feel the designs that are created here fit the woman properly, there’s always some awkwardness. Either in the way its designed or the way its sown together. I think that they rush their collections so that they are ready in time instead of giving the proper attention to the way their pieces fit the consumer”

Sira Dikec’s known sharp and well defined sense of style makes her stand out and her gracious demeaner creates an aura of peace and radiance surrounding her. A graduate of Westminster University, her passion for fasion has sometimes pushed her to her own limits and create designs when she wouldn’t find what she needed in stores. Sira being a brilliant artist, she breathes life into paintings and gowns that she creates in the hope that one day she will be able to launch her own line of haute couture. Her sensitivity to the human nature and psychology, her kindness and chic sense of style are already promising that her project of creating designs will be very successful. Growing up in an atmoshere surrounded by fashion and fabrics, she naturally has the tools she will need to be able to mold her creativity into unique pieces of art which will last forever. “I don’t see anything I really like amongst the local designers community. I don’t feel the designs that are created here fit the woman properly, there’s always some awkwardness. Either in the way its designed or the way its sown together. I think that they rush their collections so that they are ready in time instead of giving the proper attention to the way their pieces fit the consumer. Little to not attention is given to detail. They are not trying to create pieces that will endure the test of time, it’s a bit like the “fast food” industry of fashion. People are hungry for iconic designs like a Chanel or a Dior, and I think that the lack of Maison de Coutures in Turkey is one of the reasons why the market is suffering so much.”

This reflects very badly on the few very good local designers who produce quality work but whos designs aren’t getting the attention they deserve because of the prejudices towards Turkish fashion caused by said “fast food” fashion designers. Sira thinks that another reason why Turkish fashion isn’t getting the results it wants is because local designers haven’t found a specific, original line to work with, a style that they can use to produce uniqueness. “They’re stuck in a rutt, a creative barrier which stops them from moving forward and produce controversial designs”. There is a positive aspect though; the creation of fashion schools all over Turkey, which will help young minds form their own opinions as to what they want to create and give them the appropriate tools to become the Galliano’s of tomorrow. The fabrics which are created in Turkey are some of the best in the world, so local designers have the opportunity to create unforgetable fashion, which is easy to wear and fabulous. Right now, Haute Couture created in Turkey is very difficult to wear, heavy beaded gowns with frapant colors are looked up to and bought when they don’t really even match todays fashion sense. She does talk about one local favorite though; Yargici. Yargici create easy to wear clothing and their cuts are classic and luxurious. The quality of the fabrics used are impeccable and she likes the simplicity of their designs.

She says that instead of trying to find their own identity, brands in Turkey try to mimic what is done abroad, which obviously reduces their chances of even being considered to branch out onto the international market. Most of the time they are looking for the easy way out, some sort of fast fashion that will sell quickly so that they can move onto the next design and make even more money. O37

Lifestyle › Profiles

Fashion Model Seda Ertan

“The big textile companies haven’t managed to let the world know of their existence. One way this could be done is through movies; fashion designers could be given a chance to design clothes and look of the actors of big studio films in Turkey”

Seda Ertans has been modelling for the past 10 years. She has one of the most recognizable faces in the Turkish fashion industry, which is why she is also a prime choice for top designers and fashion shows. Being in the heart of the industry, and having worked in Paris, Milan, New York, Dusseldorf, Egypt, Prague and Moscow for some of the biggest designers, she feels that Turkey isn’t recognized enough for its merits despite being one of the biggest centres of fabric production in the world. She feels the solution to this could be heavily advertising Turkish creations in Europe and America. “The big textile companies haven’t managed to let the world know of their existence. One way this could be done is through movies; fashion designers could be given a chance to design clothes and look of the actors of big studio films in Turkey. This would attract attention and offer a possibility for the fashion designers to be seen in a different light, and be finally recognized for their talent.”

O38

brownbook magazine

Not all Turkish designers stay in the dark though; to name just a few, Vakko, Beymen and Atil Kutoglu are very well known brands abroad. Seda having modelled for all three, still has a tough time picking her favourite local designer. “I’ve studied fashion design myself which makes me look at things in a more critical light. If I did have to pick a favourite, it would definitely be Huseyin Chalayan. His work is different and easy to wear and practical.” She also feels that the investments made by Dubai businessmen in Istanbul are a step in the right direction to come out of the invisibility that the city seems to be trapped in.

Lifestyle › Profiles

Sales in Bubblin Faith Konar

There once used to be high demand for alternative American-style clothing in Turkey. Stores were generally found around the area of Taksim where streetwear was made available to answer that demand. Taksim is the heart of Istanbul nightlife and the main area for the youth to hangout. So it only seemed appropriate that such shops were placed around that hotspot. Little galleries lead to the main street of Taksim like veins to the heart and soul of one of the biggest cities in Turkey. Within those galleries, one shop stands out with its unique decoration and colourful displays. If you follow the sound of RnB blasting through a top of the line sound system, you will find a little gem hidden amongst pebbles. Bubblin opened on a cold winter morning in 2005. The owner, Fatih Konar, 27, saw the opportunity back then and due to his love for streetwear fashion, decided to open what is now one of the best shops of its kind in Istanbul. Even though American streetwear sales are difficult nowadays due to a change in trends, Bubblin isn’t struggling too badly to keep up with its competitors. “There is a change in trend,” Fatih admits adding, “people are going more towards a new style called Clean Punk. But thankfully we aren’t suffering too much from this transition. There will always be demand for streetwear.” Fatih decided to use a unique style of decoration to add his distinct touch and magic to the O4O

brownbook magazine

atmosphere of the legendary Bubblin. The ceilings are decorated with silver and gold egg box padding whilst the displays are made out of parts of recycled washing machines. You will find displayed on the golden walls jeans, bows & arrows and shirts, reminiscent of works of art that have become one with the shop. Talking about her clients, Fatih shares, “I get customers from all social backgrounds. I wouldn’t be able to pinpoint just the one group. Streetwear can be used in a very fashionable, hype and stylish way. It really just depends on who is wearing it and how, which is why it’s easier to please everyone. A lot of actors and

models come here also to buy the clothes. We have got a loyal list of customers who come back for their purchases.” This influx of business helped them build up Bubblin to what it is today, giving them opportunities to branch out and build their own brand of custom made t-shirts with various logos and images displayed over them. In an age where online shopping is a rage, Bubblin decided against taking that route just yet. “Maybe this year...,” Fatih smiles.

O41

Lifestyle › Profiles

Fashion Teacher Berivan Aslan

Vakko, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Pucci, Victor&Rolf, Devernois, Jean Paul Gaultier, Sharon Wauchob and Sonia Rykiel all have something in common; Berivan Aslan. This highly accomplished young woman has worked for some of the biggest names in the international fashion industry after she graduated from the Institut Francais de la Mode in Paris. She currently works for Istanbul Fashion Academy in Turkey, preparing classes for Fashion Management course at the academy where she’s also the course director for subjects such as Fashion and Textiles Management and Sales Management in Fashion. She also works as a freelance consultant for fashion companies. Berivan points out, “We’ve seen many improvements in Turkey relating to designing and brand management in the last few years. Some of our brands have thrown themselves into the international arena and are doing well. The transition from producing to brand formation has O42

brownbook magazine

been a bit fast in my opinion, collections have been thrown together hastily and brands created without much attention to detail. To be able to create a brand, you need to create its DNA, you need to determine its genetic code to be able to generate an identity. This will give way to all the brands’ creations and collections. Once that identity is created, all your steps need to be towards that direction you’ve initially given to the company.” She continues, “What makes a brand strong is its predefined identity. Unfortunately Turkish brands have a hard time creating an identity for their companies. This is a very important point for those who want to succeed abroad and who want a long life in the industry. It’s also a point on which local companies need to work. With the entry of foreign brands into the Turkish market the competition is getting very tough which is why each brand needs to assess its weak points and develop itself if it wishes to hold its position.”

When asked who her favorite designer is she quoted the Turkish designer, Huseyin Caglayan; “Fashion is an architectural work which values the human body.” She says that even though he studied abroad and currently resides there it, makes her very proud to see the kind of success he has achieved. Talking about the hardships one might encounter in the fashion industry, she replied that the portrayal of the fashion world in the film ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ wasn’t that fictive after all. One needs to be strong-minded to be able to succeed in this vocation. It’s a fast-paced and stressful business, especially since every season you need to come up with new designs and attention to detail is incredibly important. Anything might affect the designs that you’re creating; from the weather cooling down too late within the season or a dress being too tight to wear. Fashion is fast-paced and fun but you are always racing against time.

Alcove Sofa Design: Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec

Swiss Corporation for Design & Technology L.L.C, TEL : +971 4 2272545, www.vitra.com

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Store Keeper Local Market

O44

brownbook magazine

“They say there aren’t any Persian designers working right now, so they have to import.” Photographer: Golnar

Farnoush, a store keeper of Fashion Island in the heart of Tehran explains her sense of life in the industry. Importing clothes from countries such as China ,Turkey ,Thailand, Farnoush aims to develop a sense of fashion hybrid. “They say there aren’t any Persian designers working right now, so they have to import.” She adds, but the change Fashion Island aims to add to the young crew is ambitious. O45

Lifestyle › Profiles

Fashion Design Student Mohaddeseh Mohaddeseh proudly mentions that her University has the famous professors in fashion designing who have all incidentally studied in foreign countries such as France and Italy. “There are few boys in the class,” she adds. “But the boys are good at their work; their designs are better than those of the girls. Talking about the work atmosphere, Mohaddeseh shares, “Iran doesn’t have a stable atmosphere for fashion design professionals to work and grow.

O46

brownbook magazine

That’s because the industry itself has not grown to realise what kind of fields and job opportunities it can throw up. The few designing companies that are there, manage with ripping off designs from their Western counterparts. The other few designers are expensive. And how can one ignore the obligatory Hijab that every woman has to drape? Hence, few fashion shows take place in the Islamic Republic.” Mohaddeseh, just like any other fashion designer is eager to start as an entrepreneurial designer with

a humble fashion shows, exhibitions or gallery displays. On a different note, Mohaddeseh adds that people who work as models in Iran, have another job too. “It is an unstable world out there.”

Mohaddeseh 25, fashion design student, Art University of Tehran.

â&#x20AC;&#x153; The other few designers are expensive. And how can one ignore the obligatory Hijab that every woman has to drape? Hence, few fashion shows take place in the Islamic Republic.â&#x20AC;?

O47

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Fashion Consumer Raheleh

O48

brownbook magazine

“It is very difficult to get the kind of style I want in Iran. Despite looking for it in a variety of shops, the available stock will hardly meet my expectations.” “She buys clothes from the big and luxe shops in expensive parts of Tehran” Raheleh’s friends build on her personality. “At times, she buys them at higher prices. Sometimes, she admits she buys fashionable items because she ‘has to’ even though they are not worth.” Raheleh is one of the profiles we wanted to highlight as a typical young Persian fashion savvy. The

market through premature, the young tend to head towards places such as Adidas and other recognized brands worldwide. Almost everything that she wears is made in foreign countries. There is nothing she likes that is made in Iran. She says, “It is very difficult to get the kind of style I want in Iran. Despite looking for it in a variety of shops, the available stock will hardly meet my expectations. The current fashion seems so good with the older generation. It

is a problem to be young and fashionable as even the tailors seem to ditch you. However, it is not the same with watches, jewelry and accessories. There are fashionable stuff which are easy to find.”

O49

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Store Keeper Mashhad Leather

O5O

brownbook magazine

In recent years, fancy shops of Mashhad Leather have set themselves in almost every corner of Iran. Its products are quite a hit with the young and old. Mashhad Leather is amongst the first leather companies to process the hide, manufacture and facilitate the sale of the items themselves. They have a dedicated staff of designers working for them. Surprisingly, their collection does not change during a year, and they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have big sales either. They believe that leather clothes and accessories are durable, and that is why people pay through their nose to have them for years. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why they produce classic and simple items more than fashionable and funky items. Mashhad imports raw material from China, Turkey, Thailand and exports their products as far as Europe. www.mashadleather.com O51

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Fashion Consumers

O52

brownbook magazine

Hair styles from the seventies are back with layers and layers of clothing. This is what you find walking down the streets of Tehran.

Boys usually throw on anything they find. But street fashion in Tehran has really picked up, especially for men. You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go down the street without turning your head three or four times just to check out what the guys are wearing. Hair styles from the seventies are back with layers and layers of clothing. This is what you find walking down the streets of Tehran. Unfortunately, we wanted to focus on street fashion in Iran and just give you an idea of what the guys are wearing these days, but due to the strict regulations of photography in the streets, we are unable to do so, although we did find some local boys randomly in a school and as you can see the clean look is out and raw, rugged and cleanis back in style. O53

Lifestyle › Profiles LIBAN-NOR

Mediterranean Sea

Al Labwah Qartabá BÉQA A

BEIRUT

Tailors in Beirut

MONT-LIBAN Rayak

LEBANON Damour

Anjar

Beited Dine

EL JNOBU

Rachaiya

SYRIA

Nihad Azzam

Damascus

Nihad Azzam is a 69-year-old tailor. Nihad has been working in this field for the past 50 years. She started getting interested in the tailoring business when she asked her mother how to make a dress for her doll. Soon, she decided to make a living out of it. Nihad, a Palestinian refugee in Lebanon, was particularly busy during the Lebanese civil war. Shops for ready-made garments were forced to close down and people turned to tailors to get their dresses stitched. “We were very busy during the war. People had no money, but they didn’t have a choice.” Today, Nihad says that tailors are substituted with fashion shops. “Everybody knows that tailors make the best quality clothes, and of the exact size as their client’s. Yet, people prefer European labels to hand-made clothes. Most of my clients come to me to fix the ready-made clothes they buy from the shops; usually women, who like their shirts tighter on their waists.” Nihad continues to make money out of hand-made suits and shirts, in an era that has almost forgoten about the uniquity of such handmade craft. O54

brownbook magazine

Photographer: Razan Ghazzawi

“We were very busy during the war, People had no money, but they didn’t have a choice”

O55

Lifestyle › Profiles

Fashion Photographer Fadi Youssef

At the onset, Fadi laments that the field of fashion photography is open to few. “I believe that the field of fashion photography in Lebanon is unfortunately an exclusive community whose members do not let in a newcomer in the field regardless of her/his talent or originality. Of course, that would change if this new photographer knows someone within this community, then she/he might be welcomed an equivalent. Yeah, it is sad, but I think this community is corrupt,” he rues. He is also annoyed with fashion photography mixing up values in an unpleasant manner. He denounces objectifying female models and hence stresses that every photographer must work through his aesthetic eye. Nevertheless, Fadi finds creativity in his work and in abundance. “Creativity is not independent of the theme of photography. You need to know how to treat your background and subject of the picture. It also depends on how you can create a new style every time you take a photograph. It is a neverending process; the dialectical relationship between you, the camera and the subject always hits you with new angels, new thoughts. Sometimes I realize that I am restricting myself with specific red lines, hence I automatically try to break them, self-consciously. I also find creativity and inspiration partly from the beauty of women I photograph.” “Details also count. The right lightning is essential in photography; the outfit is of course important. But for me as a photographer, I think the model’s facial features is what fashion photography is all about. The fashion designer picks up the outfit, I pick up the facial features of the model. The photograph should express what the clothes themselves alone, can not. Values like elegance, funkiness, hippie style, or classy, are not restricted to clothes alone, but in fact, these values can be well-transmitted with the help of both of the model and the photographer together,” he adds. Fadi believes that despite the challenges that dog the fashion industry in Lebanon, the country will move every inch forward to achieve success in the field.

O56

brownbook magazine

Fadi Youssef, a fashion photographer from Beirut. 26 years and works as a freelancer.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Creativity is not independent of the theme of photography. You need to know how to treat your background and subject of the picture. It also depends on how you can create a new style every time you take a photograph. It is a never-ending process; the dialectical relationship between you, the camera and the subject always hits you with new angels, new thoughtsâ&#x20AC;?. O57

Store Owners Mike & Titiana

“Why do African and Asian handmade home decorations get associated with weird thoughts? But, it’s over now. I guess this is part of business.”

Mike and Tatiana run a shop of handmade fashion items.

with knitting or by adding some oriental flavour,” adds Tatiana.

They opened the gifts-shop five years ago and started their venture with small handmade items for decorating homes; like wooden lamps, candles, ashtrays, vases and holders. Recently, they added handmade accessories, linens for upholstery, and even handmade clothes, shirts, skirts, pants, dresses and bags to their already exotic collection in their tiny shop in Hamra.

Mike also mentions that while making garments, they stick to the local style and avoid using buttons or zips. He shares “We try to maintain a local spirit in our creation. Buttons or zips were not a tradition from this region. These came with what is called ‘colonial civilization’. We are trying to revive old days, were you wear clothes right away. They are simpler and more comfortable.”

“We are not doing a perfect job. Our patient clients tell us where we go wrong in terms of designing and patterns. We learn from our clients how to make better handmade clothing. We have strong relationship with our clients, and because of this relationship, we are flourishing,” Mike says. Interestingly, the duo works on cloths recycled from fashion factories. “Our fabrics are old unused pieces that we collect from fashion factories. We combine multiple fabrics in one clothing piece. We like our pieces colourful. We sometimes adorn it

Throwing more light on their designs, Tatiana adds, “But it’s not like we are copying old designs. If you noticed, you can wear the same piece in different ways. This is influenced by our creative clients. They actually inspire us. One of my clients is 14 years old; she has great ideas which she allows them to be used in my designs. So as you can see, our clients and we are partners.”

know where there’s always a refugee community in each community? Where clothing is not just another thing you put on, it’s part of how you express yourself, or actually, how you present yourself in a given community. So this community comes to my modest shop and make use of them. I like that; I don’t want to be one of these brands you speak of. We are happy the way we are. We are pleased of our clients, who always give new ideas and teach us, on how to make better clothing.” Mike and Tatiana were only peeved about being perceived as believers of devils. “Why do African and Asian handmade home decorations get associated with weird thoughts? But, it’s over now. I guess this is part of business.”

So who are her clients? Tatiana answers, “Well, our clients are not from a usual community. You O59

Lifestyle › Profiles

LIBAN-NOR

Mediterranean Sea

Al Labwah Qartabá BÉQA A

BEIRUT

Fashion Student

MONT-LIBAN Rayak

LEBANON Damour

Anjar

Beited Dine

SYRIA Damascus

EL JNOBU

O6O

Rachaiya

brownbook magazine

Maya Al Bakri

Writer: Yara Samma’a Photographer: Omar Sanadiki

Ever since her childhood, Maya has loved clothes. She used to wear her mother’s clothes, adding to such clothes some accessories and see how would she look in the mirror. As she grew up, she craved to know more about matching clothes, and designing some pieces that she would imagine and then would actually do them and fabricates them, thus she was distinguished among all people and she decided to academically study fashion. When Maya first has joined the institute, she had no idea about sketches and design, but now she knows more about such a field which greatly affected her view point about clothes. “Today, as I enter fashion stores, they think I am crazy, because I keep looking at the pieces of clothes, inspecting all the fine details about tailoring and buttons for each and every piece in order to understand the way it was designed and made”. Before studying fashion, Maya used to believe that her study was going to be easy. It will be no more than drawing, coloring, matching pieces together and that’s it. Later on, she was surprised to find that the study of fashion designing is much deeper, since it includes mathematics, history, and analysis. But what really made her study a lot of fun was the

freedom the student enjoyed as of the second year and until the graduation year, that sort of responsible freedom, since they are being treated as the professional free designer with all his ideas, and the way he makes his pieces and designs. “In the last year, we actually feel that we are independent designers, making pieces, truly expressive of us, that even the competition between us could much be compared to that which is going on between the professional designers. Everybody wants to come out with the best, and tries to create new ideas even at an international level”. So far, Maya is still not sure about what she is going to do after graduation; for invading the market and working in Syria is for her too hard a job for a graduate of a professional institute. This may largely be attributed to the fact that all factories are far isolated from the development witnessed by the fashion world all over the world, such development which is being taught among the curricula of the institute. Thus students as they graduate they become qualified to work in international fashion houses, rather than working in the local factories. That’s why, she is thinking of training and gaining experience for a long time before launching her

own designs bearing her own name in the market. “Fashion is quite a long way for any designer; we all know that we will never get to the title of a designer before the age of forty”. From the point of view of Maya, we are still new to fashion, for despite the presence of a professional institute in Syria ever since 1995, and despite the fact that more than 300 designer has been graduated out of it until today, people have not known about it except in the last two or three years, which is quite a short span of time. But ever since then, it has actually started to change the concept of fashion designing and confidence in the field, in addition to opening a number of outlets for the international brands in the country over the last three years. Maya has her own dreams in the field of fashion designing. She is aspiring to work in Serbia, unlike the other students and graduates who always mention the name of fashion capitals like Paris or Rome. “People in Serbia are fond of fashion, and they accept mingling of cultures, which I adore. I always think of merging the eastern embroidered model with the western practical model in order to offer practical clothes that are much like us. Add to this the fact that my mother is of Serbian origins, which will help me work there”. O61

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Manager of Anat Store Banoura Awad

O62

brownbook magazine

Company of (Anat) started twenty years ago, with a little capital of no more than $200, but supported by the effort of women from all over Syria, the company now owns a big store and a workshop in which 25 workers work, as well as about 700 women working from their homes to make the pieces from all over Syria. At first, Anat counted on the folkloric designs and inscriptions, giving them a contemporary tone in order to suit all people. Today, they largely count on their own designs that are made by the contemporary designer Solafa Awad, who is working on designing clothes that best suit the requirements of the contemporary woman, without eliminating our own identity and heritage. Banoura, the store manager, expresses her belief that they are today more capable of simulating the Syrian girl in her daily life. At the very beginning, her clients were mostly tourists and foreigners living in Syria, but the number of her clients of the Syrian women and girls is now more than half of her clients in general. “Our clients are of all ages, and especially

young women. Lately we have witnessed a large turnout of some famous women, particularly those working in the field of music who prefer to have a distinguished look. Of course, all our pieces are hand-made and of course a bit costly, which means that our clients do appreciate our work and at the same time can afford to pay for it”. Anat includes a large variety of bags, shawls, accessories, jackets, gowns, and evening dresses, all bearing an eastern or rather a local nature. Lately, they launched some clothes and accessories for children. All the designs and the colors made by Anat are taken from the Syrian environment. The colors and drawings of heir latest collection were mainly adopted from those used by the people of Jabal Al-Hoss region in embroidering their bed sheets and carpets. Those were used in bags, or belts, or were even embroidered on coats. Through her relations with customers and her expertise in the field, Banoura Awad finds that

so far we are incapable of creating our own fashion. Some clients as they enter the store and pick a dress would immediately wonder about the color of the matching shoes or jacket. They are never tired of searching or matching pieces together. They always want all that is ready-made or imported, without having to innovate or adding a touch that is special for every woman. According to Banoura, the importance of the presence of fashion in the Middle East lies in our need for what expresses the distinctive character of the Arab woman. “Why do we have to import fashion from Italy? Why wouldn’t we create it with our own hands? We live in a big region that has its own history, and we must have a charisma even in our clothes distinguishing us from others. Today, there are some personal initiatives from young designers to create the fashion that is of a Syrian or a Middle-Eastern taste. I am quite optimistic that by time, we will be able to achieve that”.

O51

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Teacher in Esmod Institute Ahmed Mitani

O64

brownbook magazine

At the very beginning, teaching was not his aim, but his study of fashion designing in the institute made him seriously consider teaching the new students. “What encouraged me to teach was principally the fact that this field is forcing me to continuously keep in touch with all that’s new in order to gain enough knowledge, and be prepared in case any of my students ask me a question. This helps me develop my personal skills in fashion designing”. Ahmed Metani is a graduate of () Institute in Syria, and has been working for five years as a design teacher in the same institute in which he graduated from, which means that his age is slightly more than the students whom he is teaching and who join the institute with the least knowledge about professional fashion designing. Ahmed graduated a number of students who became today fashion designers having their own independent designs, especially those who traveled to work abroad in the Gulf Countries and in Europe. This made him much proud of them being the mentor who taught them the alphabets of designing. Ahmed holds his own views about fashion in Syria. He thinks that so far we have no clear notion at the level of the local fashion: “The consumer here still prefers the imported pieces and the international brands to the locally designed pieces. This is due to the dominant views saying that the Westerns are stronger in all fields and are more credible, though the latest fashion ideas are mostly of Arab and Eastern origins. For when they come to the region, they notice some details that we have, that are mostly neglected by us, they slightly amend them and then they resend them back to us as strange pieces. There is another problem that has to do with the market, since the new designers and graduates lack the experience to work in the market and answer its demands, which is why they offer pieces that are not fit for the consumer, and unfortunately depend on copying the international designs, remaking them after making some amendments”.

What actually distinguishes fashion designing in Syria, from Ahmed’s point of view, is the local touch. Most designs highly depend on the eastern inscriptions and embroidery even the color are mostly earthly warm colors, so much like the surrounding environment, but that differ from one region to the other. “There is a saying that is usually reported by students: (This design is nice … This design is not) which is totally wrong and we have to forget all about it, since in fashion there is no such thing as that. Some fine details may transform quite a normal dress into a fashionable one. Fashion has no rules, and this is still not comprehended in Syria.” In his opinion, the future of the fashion industry requires a great effort. The general concept in making and designing fashion is still confined to making some pieces that were done before by the international designers. As wrong as this is, it still invites us to be optimistic, since the tailor who is capable of making the pieces found on covers of magazines is definitely capable of making other pieces sketched by Syrian designers. “What guarantees this future is the establishment of a syndicate or a society for fashion designers, through which to protect the profession from intruders and from the tailors who may think they are fashion designers though they are actually no more than copiers of imported pieces.” We are capable of rising to an international level; procquard and jacquard are 100% Syrian fabrics that were launched from here to the whole world. The wedding dress of the UK queen was made from a fabric that was originally transported to Britain from al-Hamideya market in Damascus. Why is it then that the Syrian designer fails to reach the world? With exerting a little bit efforts and having more chances, I believe we’ll be able to do so”.

O65

Lifestyle â&#x20AC;ş Profiles

Manager of Anat Store Rania Moudarres

O66

brownbook magazine

“Unfortunately, we are talking in Arabic, and think in Arabic, but we wear, eat, and drink in a foreign way”. As she graduated from ESMOD institute in Syria, Rania developed a fondness of fashion at an early age, as she used to follow up the magazines, like all other girls of her age at that time. When Rania grew up, she had to choose between resuming her studies in the ballet institute or joining the university to study psychology, but the inauguration of the Syrian Institute made her set her choices aside, and she went for studying the fashion designing. Joining the institute was like trying something new, at first, but soon she found that this field was a great attraction for her and it allowed her to highlight her capacities and ideas that even herself could not see before. Rania thinks she is lucky for belonging to an artistic family. Her father is the artist Fateh Moudarres and her mother owns an art gallery which made her have an artistic vision that helped her in her studies, in addition to her love of the fashion world and being acquainted with the fine details of such magical world ever since she was young. “My love of fashion even since I was a little child and my curiosity to know more about it formed a strong background that started to show as I studied fashion designing. I came first in my first year of study without even feeling that, due to the joy I used to feel while working, to the extent that I used to tell my friends that I wanted to work, and they used to look at me in an astonishment saying: “Rania, you are already working”.

actors as if I am in my own fashion show, which is an amazing feeling”. Despite all the offers, she had, the theatre remained to be the best window in Syria for presenting her designs in a free way, more than any of the other fields: “After graduation, I received many offers to work in a number of fashion houses in Dubai, for international brands like Pierre Cardin, but I couldn’t work there, simply because I am a fashion designer and I cannot limit my work to amending pieces designed by others in order to suit consumers in a certain region.” In Portugal, she started her career as a designer of different styles. She found herself in a new place in which there are no relatives or friends, and thus she had to prove herself as a designer by exerting extra efforts. First, she worked in the theatre, and then she worked on her own designs as she designed different things that would suit people in the street, despite their diverse tastes: “Seeing fashion magazines and the international brands is least important if compared to getting to the street and seeing what people actually wear, because the truth is always different”. Each of the pieces she designed in this collection bears its own distinctive character that is more or less similar to the one wearing it:

Soon after graduation, Rania worked in the field of fashion designing in the theatre shows in Syria, for she used to study in the Higher Institute for Theatrical Arts, Ballet Section, and she has a number of friends who are stars on stage. She used to work in three or more plays per year with famous and well known directors. There she found much space for her wild imagination:

“The piece does not wear me, I wear it which is why it has to look like me, and fit my movement and style”.

“Working in the theatre is so different. I would read the text, imagine the characters, and then I would see my designs embodied on stage through the

Through her research which starts as of the Ottoman rule of the Arab region, Rania found that all the folkloric clothes, f ound in the market today, which

The graduation project of Rania Moudarres was a research in the history of Arab fashion, a project which started to expand after her graduation, that now she is considering turning that into a book.

are supposed to be expressive of our history, have nothing to do with the actual Arab fashion: “The European fashion is much closer to the actual Arab fashion even more than the fashion found today in our markets”. “Through my research I found that Zeriab of the Arab music had a theory saying that we have to wear a distinctive color for each season which is actually happening today in the world of fashion”. Rania objects to the phrase “conditions of our local market”. She sees that we do not really have a market that imposes its own conditions. We are rather a small market that imitates the larger international market just like a number of other small countries: As for her responsibility as a fashion designer to make changes and correct the course of fashion in the region, Rania expressed her belief that we need to make a change in order to get somewhere away from the prevailing mess, which requires her to work along with the other young designers to effect and make such changes, and realize the importance of making our own fashion. Whenever you ask Rania about the importance of having our own fashion in the Middle East, she would always tell you the following story: Through her work, Rania is seeking to get back to our colors and fabrics which have lots of fine inscriptions and details out of the procquard, the silk, the Damesco, being capable of actually representing us. “Identity has got nothing to do with politics or geography, our identity has to be clear, we have to know where we have come from in order to know where to reach”. “We have a stupid tradition, for young people wear clothes without knowing why they are wearing them, which is why most of those who blindly follow fashion sadly turn into (fashion victims)”.

O67

Lifestyle › Profiles

Editor in Chief of Tendenza Arabia Magazine Khaled Ismail

The love of fashion started with Khaled through his travels abroad, during which he noticed that people care for the fine details of their clothes in a way that is not evident here. And so he decided as he worked in the radio in preparing a show in which to host a number of experts to explain to the people the principles of matching clothes and caring for the external look as well as the latest fashion trends. During the show, Khaled knew more about the fashion world which made him more curious and forced him to look for and search until he became capable of being an editor in chief for an international fashion magazine. Through his work in this field in Syria, Khaled found that we have no real fashion designers: “Unfortunately, most of those calling themselves fashion designers are but tailors who would merely amend the designs of famous fashion designers in a way that satisfies their clients, then would attribute the designs unto themselves. The number of famous fashion designers in Syria does not exceed 10 designers, five of whom are nothing but tailors”. After dealing with designers and getting in close O68

brownbook magazine

contact with the fashion world in Syria, Khaled was able to say that we are a country that lacks the fashion industry, we do not have local fashion houses or fashion shows. And if we do so, we usually seek the help of models and show designers from Lebanon. “Though we are people who have high taste in clothes, but we have no idea how to reflect this image in the right way when we present ourselves as fashion makers”.

among the professional hair dressers, tailors, and others:

In his work, Khaled Ismail largely counted in his follow-ups and personal efforts in understanding the world of fashion and did not actually join a professional institute, because he found them under-qualified:

According to Khaled, this could be largely attributed to the spread of the haute couture stores like Stefanel and Mango, where the international foreign designs are easily accessible.

“I am sorry to say that the only academic institute in Syria graduates students incapable of working after graduation. They just study for the sake of studying. I would not totally hold the institute responsible for that, the truth is that students as well as the whole community do share the responsibility”. Though the magazine in which Khaled works is already famous in Europe, and it presents issues that quite benefits all those who care for fashion, but as he says, it is not quite famous in Syria except

“The strangest thing about that is that you would rarely find a home in the eighties that does not have the fashion magazines and the Borda. Most women actually subscribed in such magazines periodically, for we used to enjoy the culture of fashion and details even more than today”.

But for Khaled, this does not make up for the value of the pieces specially designed and made for us, in particular the wedding dresses: “In all countries all over the world, women seek to have wedding dresses tailored especially for them, even if the design is taken from a magazine, except here, where a girl would go to al-Hamideya market to buy a dress that might not perfectly suit her style or size.”

D Series / Recent Works by Tarek Al Ghoussein Feb / 12 – Mar / 5 / 2009 Exhibition to coincide with the launch of In Absentia, Tarek Al Ghoussein’s first artist monograph. Al Quoz 3 / P.O.Box 72036 Dubai, U.A.E / Tel:+9714 341 1367 / Fax:+9714 341 1369 Waqif Art Center / P.O.Box 23289 Doha, Qatar / Tel:+974 432 6285 www.thethirdline.com

Design â&#x20AC;ş Trendy Outlet Sallum Matruh

Port Said

Alexandria

CAIRO Suez Pyramids of Giza

ARABIA

Beni Hasan Tuna El Gabal

Sharm el Sheikh

Tel Al Amarna

Asyut e Nil er

Sohag

Riv

EGYPT

Qena Karnak Luxor

Hi h D

O7O

brownbook magazine

Aswan

Re ea

Loolies Boutique Keeps You Pretty and Ready for Destiny Location: Zamalek, Cairo

Preface Loolies is a boutique that stirs clear from the brand-pusher feel that should be avoided at all costs, and displays a fluency in fashion and taste. Writer: Omayyah Omar Photographer: Mohamed Abou Zikri

O71

Design › Trendy Outlet

Location, Location, Location! Coco Chanel once said, “Dress Shabbily and they remember the dress. Dress impeccably and they remember the woman”. Thus is the adage by which this boutique is prepared and presented. Loolies is a boutique which strikes with its authentic expression. It is located in Zamalek, a district of Cairo taking up an island on the Nile River. It is the part of town for art projects, galleries, showcasing and exhibitions, and is one of Cairo’s fashionable residential areas. The quaint store is placed within an apartment-building and is designed for maximum comfort. Alya El Wakil, owner of Loolies gave us her take on the boutique’s setting and location, “[the] fact that it’s inside a building was on purpose, my idea was to make Loolies feel ‘exclusive’, and that you had to know about it to actually go, you won’t just randomly be walking down the street and find yourself in Loolies. I think this also adds a sense of excitement and curiosity.” The location is also chosen for targeting a specific “artsy” crowd, though it is in a sense “hidden” from the average shopper. This interplay with ideas and location choice construct a lucid image of the concepts behind Loolies. It was not placed in a mall nor a shopping-strip, but in an apartment building to add to the mystery and glamour of finding out about the picturesque place and then actively seeking it out and exploring it. “Zamalek is an upscale area with a number of attractions including most of the hip/trendy restaurants, bars, art galleries, showrooms and stores” Alya continues, “It’s also where most of the hip, trendy, and Artsy Egyptians [which is] my target market live and/or hang out”. The interior design, mysterious location and provocative layout have proved to be a magnet for local and international customers alike. According to Alya, the ratio can be estimated at about 70% local customers to 30% tourists. The Space: Spotting a suited white rabbit, and following him persistently will eventually lead to hole in which you will fall and appear in a new dimension of familiar yet intriguing objects. Loolies boutique to me is this familiar yet intriguing place, and it is owed to the general atmosphere created by the colors and choice of the often odd decorating furniture, both of which are interior arrangements and distinguishing components of the boutique. Adorable cushions casually cake armchairs, and beanbags lay surrounding an inviting tea table. Shabby chic designs dominate the interior of the complex of intertwining rooms. The choice of decoration, made by the talented interior designer Naguiba El Far, is one derived from the famous English Cottage Style, O72

brownbook magazine

O73

Design › Trendy Outlet

which developed out of a love for the rustic feel of vintage furniture in the English countryside during the Victorian era, i.e. 1800’s. The inner spaces of the boutique are sprinkled with flares of color, and objects of curiosity. Many frames emerge from one wall, holding objects of dramatic artistic expression. An inspirational fashion-oriented quote from Coco Chanel comes to inspire the customer in the dressing room, with elegant details filling the environment.

when you walk in.” The design of the boutique is greatly invested in for the comfort of the customer, while at the same time there is a lot of emphasis on the quality of art displayed in the store. The colors of cushions, tables, frames, chandeliers, and clothes-cases are all carefully arranged to display diversity and harmony. Loolies proves the ability to create artistic expression in the age of homogenous mass-production to be very precious indeed.

The furniture which seems to be present in all the right places, yet never in the way, is made up mainly of pastel colors especially in off-white, mint, and calming patterns of white-black cloth. The pieces have a rugged “rustic” look of preserved vintage-iness that provides layers of homey familiarity. This was, according to the store’s owner and visionary, what she has aimed at from the start. “The idea was to make the Loolies experience as stress-free and enjoyable as possible. I wanted it to feel like you’re literally hanging out at your best friend’s apartment and looking through her wardrobe, jewelry box…. etc”. To help with this, the store is designed as a chain of rooms, each leading to another, giving the visitor the experience of exploring an apartment’s layout, “the rooms add a sense of excitement in terms of not knowing what’s going to come next in the following room, versus seeing the whole store

The Loolies experience:

O74

brownbook magazine

The help within the boutique is kept at a minimum, and the two existing assistants are instructed to let the customers explore on their own without any incessant hovering. “I trained them that it is very important to always let the customers discover the boutique on their own and give them their space”, says Alya, “they need to look at everything and discover new things as this is a big part of the ‘Homey’ experience.” The brands displayed at Loolies Boutique are diverse in style and source. They include both Egyptian and international designers: Sass & Bide, Manoush, American Retro, Iro, Suzie Wong & Raasta. Other brands will soon join the former, including: Hebz by Heba El Awadi & Amina K by Amina Khalil.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I trained them that it is very important to always let the customers discover the boutique on their own and give them their spaceâ&#x20AC;?

O75

ARMANDO TESTA

Massimiliano and Doriana Fuksas. Roma, February 2008.

www.poltronafrau.it

Quadra Sofa, Studio Cerri&Associati. Poltrona Frau Collection.

Poltrona Frau Dubai Waterview Tower - Port Saeed Dubai U.A.E. T. +971 4 2952180 F. +971 4 2952170 info@fraudubai.ae

Design › Architecture

Beirut’s Rooftop Gardens: An Urban Oasis

O77

Design › Architecture

Preface A new movement of design and architecture is emerging in the high-rise city of Beirut. Reminiscent of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, contemporary architects and designers are compensating for the city’s lack of recreational public space by including gardens as integrated components to Beirut’s newest apartment buildings. In doing so, they are creating more natural living spaces for those above ground level while updating an idea from the Middle East’s ancient architectural heritage. Writer: Christopher J. Varady Photographer: Geraldine Bruneel & Jerry Harpur Design of living space requires finding the right mixture of aesthetics, ecological concerns, and social needs, while never losing touch with the cultural traditions in which these spaces are to be developed. The Middle East’s concrete metropolises call for this thoughtful design now more than ever. Landscape architect, Vladimir Djurovic, is applying contemporary design to an indigenous idea from antiquity to provide Beirut’s residents with a respite from the urban environment. The concept of rooftop gardens began in antiquity in the Middle East’s first prototype cities. From the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the region’s builders have installed rooftop gardens as a means to bring nature to the city and improve residents’ quality of life in the process. Though the goal from the perspective of designers is on aesthetics and experience, rooftop gardens likewise bring a number of economic, ecological, and social benefits to the entire city as well as for the building’s residents. Applying this idea to contemporary living space, explains Djurovic, is much harder than groundlevel landscape architecture. “For rooftop gardens to truly live up to their potential, we must co-design them with the architect as an integral part of the whole building project.” The challenge lies in avoiding the creation of a nice terrace and instead creating an outdoor, natural environment for the client at elevation. Djurovic insists the design of the rooftop garden be integrated into the overall architecture of the building from the concept stage forward. It requires not only structural support and sufficient soil depth to accommodate the root structures of plants, but also must be an extension and invitation from the living space. Often times, architects treat the roof O78

brownbook magazine

O79

Design › Architecture

as a dumping ground for technical equipment such as pumps and air conditioning units. The staircases to roofs are likewise technical ones which are not appropriate for inviting guests up. From the exterior view, the garden must harmonize and speak the same language as the building. One cannot simply place trees and plants on top of a building, like a bad hairdo. From the interior point of view, the garden must evoke the same emotion that it does on the ground: that is, an extension of living space, bridging the home and the natural surroundings. However, being on the roof, this effect can become dramatic, by evoking expansion but combining it with a view. Beyond the technical aspects, the design of a rooftop garden design is additionally challenging to landscape architects who must consider harder climatic conditions. At elevation, wind and sun O8O

brownbook magazine

are both stronger than at ground level so the garden must use carefully chosen plants, trees, and screens which are appropriate for those conditions while shielding garden visitors from higher wind. At the same time, the expansive view from the rooftop is both a benefit and a challenge. “Here in Beirut, we have spectacular sea and city views, but also unsightly construction and TV antennas. As such, we use screens and trees to both frame and conceal the view.” Through careful use of screening and plants, the rooftop garden can subtly block noise and create a place of relaxation and respite in the city center. These gardens then serve the function of escape from the city heat, noise, and chaos. “But more so than any other purpose, clients in Lebanon use their rooftop gardens to entertain and socialize. Especially here with near perfect weather for much of the year, Lebanese clients remain true to their

culture and spend their time with friends and family in the rooftop gardens.” Even having chosen the highest floors of a building, clients still want the garden, as they see it as a natural and necessary part of the home. In so doing, Djurovic’s experience confirms that clients in the Middle East are more willing to given design freedom and seek out dramatic use of gardens than their counterparts in Europe or North America. His most dramatic work has been in the region despite having gained a worldwide portfolio in the last few years. Beiruti Mireille Haddad says that during the civil war the city’s residents lost touch with notions of aesthetics and environment. “Our concerns were on politics and trying to move farther away from the fighting. It’s only recently that we began to re-focus on the beauty of Lebanon and how to truly enjoy our lives in the context of our country’s natural beauty.”

O81

Design › Architecture

In Beirut’s rapidly expanding residential construction sector, the popularity of rooftop gardens has become such that gardens are being used throughout the building. No longer the sole benefit to the owner of the penthouse, landscape designers and architects are collaborating to splice buildings so that gardens can be integrated into the design on multiple floors. Some of the newest buildings under construction have gardens every two or three floors, giving an opportunity to all the residents to incorporate them into their apartments. Concurrent with the perspective of design, rooftop gardens bring significant ecological benefits. The garden’s plants reflect heat, provide shade and help cool the surrounding air through evapotranspiration, which occurs when plants “transpire” water through their leaves. This reduces the heat island effect—in which the urban, concrete environment traps heat and raises temperatures. By increasing greenspace by only 5 percent in a large city, the city’s temperature can fall by 1C. For residents of the buildings, the gardens cool the living spaces below in the summer and provide effective insulation during the winter. As designers increasingly incorporate green issues into the buildings, rooftop gardens will provide a source of aesthetics and environmental improvements. However, this solution need not be confined to the wealthy and the designers creating their living spaces. Across the Middle East, millions of poor and working class are cramped into concrete jungles, haphazardly constructed with little regard to social needs. Rooftop gardens can increase liveability in these popular neighbors by creating the space for recreation and respite, especially for children, without the expense and disruption of re-building neighborhoods. The temperature regulation of rooftop gardens can actually help the poor to rely less on expensive, environmentally-dangerous fuels. At the same time, these residents have space to grow some basic vegetables, herbs, and spices, thus decreasing pressure on their already strained budgets. In the Middle East, sometimes the heat, traffic, and endless blocks of concrete buildings can make urban living feel more like urban warfare. Designers, such as Vladimir Djurvic, are bringing contemporary aesthetics to an ancient idea to improve quality of life of urban residents. These gardens are combining design and solutions to complex urban needs, while maintaining deep cultural roots. O82

brownbook magazine

www.vladimirdjurovic.com

O83

Design â&#x20AC;ş Residence

Rabih Kairouz

A Journey of Cultures Beirut, Lebanon

Preface Generous, emotional, precious, fresh and timeless, are but a few words that Lebanese fashion designer, Rabih Kairouz uses to describe his home. Walking into his beautiful estate in Batroun (North of Lebanon), one canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t but feel the positive energy overflowing its spacious and well-lit rooms. Writer: Nadine Fares Kahil Photographer: Razan Ghazzawi

O85

Design › Residence

Waltzing – you feel that you want to do that- around the many rooms, you are overwhelmed with the high ceilings and white marble floors that tell a million and one stories from the time it was built in the 19th century. Set on an 18th century basement, the quarters are of typical old Lebanese style, filled with the history of the old fisherman’s town. one gets a sense that the residence exudes an organic feel to it, as though it gradually grew out of the lush garden encircling it. So serene, who wouldn’t want to go there for moments of peace and tranquillity? Kairouz, like many Lebanese, has had the chance to travel the world throughout his life and spend significant years in Paris, showing the mixture of cultures in his character and greatly influences the style of his home. The success story perhaps first began in 1993 on the famed catwalk of the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris. Fashion designer Rabih Kairouz had joined L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in 1990, and three year later, made his mark as a designer at the Concours Internationale des Jeunes Créateurs. From there, it was a journey of fine apprenticeage, where he joined Christian Dior’s Haute Couture atelier, followed by Chanel. His return to Beirut in 1997 saw him leave the mainstream to become something far more unique in the fashion realm. His sense of fashion is highlighted not only by a Middle Eastern tinge per say, but rather a style that has grown to embody a reflection of the very heart of Lebanese culture and the many layers of past civilizations and cosmopolitanism that define it today. “It is a house that symbolizes my style – both in tune with the present yet in touch with a nostalgic past,” says Kairouz. “It is where I resort to for peace of mind and inspiration,” he adds. As a renowned fashion designer, his style and known touch is also obvious in his home. “I wanted an old, nice place that I could call home. I like suspense that builds as people come up into the house and walks around. But more importantly, it has to be welcoming.” The décor in each room is more of an international scene than local. Minimal is a word to best describe the furniture around the house. There are five rooms in the house, each room is different. “My favourite is definitely the projection room. I love sitting and watching movies – old movies. I have a soft spot for the 30’s and 50’s, both very rich in culture and resembles our lifestyle today,” explains Kairouz. O86

brownbook magazine

O87

Design › Residence

He prefers to describe his lifestyle as a mix of customized things – “this is what I call true luxury. It’s the ability to create different cultures adding something new and different and reflective of different characters. It’s more special this way. No one, especially me, would like to live in a setting that’s not related to you in anyway. There should be a touch of your personality and lifestyle or memories in everything around you.” Just like in his designs, Kairouz likes to add and mix a lot of material. “I love playing around with fabrics, as it allows me to come up with something different. But it definitely has to have quality in it and more so meaning. I am not the type who goes O88

brownbook magazine

for too much colour. I like beige and other earth colours,” he says. Bottom line, space is very important to Kairouz. “I don’t believe in decorating for the sake of decoration. Each piece in my home has meaning and a story to tell,” he insists. Ask him about his favourite item in the house, Kairouz points out to his little angels made from brass sitting in the main area which he bought from Portugal. Even more enchanting is noticing the sheer volume of natural light pouring in when one enters. Indeed, the entire house seems to stage a subtle play of light and shadow, something highlighted all the more by

the sense of spaciousness and lack of excessive decorative feats. An ambience of timelessness permeates the interiors, with an eclectic mix of items from different cultures and times leaving one feeling suspended from the outside world. Yet this is a very homey dwelling, and is perhaps best known for its hospitality, with Kairouz regularly hosting friends and preparing spectacular feasts. “I love having people and friends over, all the time. The whole process of preparing the meals and entertaining my friends is fun. I look forward to it always,” .

O89

The Istanbul Moda Academy

Creating Fashion Legends at Design â&#x20AC;ş Photo-essay

O92

brownbook magazine

Photographer & Writer: Idil Jans

O93

Design › Photo-essay

IMA, the Istanbul Moda Academy (Fashion) opened its doors to students a year ago. The project to open this school was reviewed and accepted by the European Union in 2003. It has partnerships with other academys in the world such as; “Institut Francais de la Mode” the “Polimoda” in Italy and the “University of Arts in London/London College of Fashion”. Short term courses and business classes are provided to students and companies who are interested in working in the fashion industry in Turkey. Beginner, intermediate and advanced short courses are made available to students with flexible schedules adapted to the fast paced fashion industry. IMA is aiming to become the leader short term courses in Turkey, and seems to have succeeded, being one of the most successful academys in the country. Its location is perfect, it’s situated right at the heart of the fashion district of Nisantasi, in Istanbul. Rubbing elbows with stores like Armani and Gucci, Cartier and Louis Vuitton, IMA offers the tools of the trade that each and every student will need for a successful carreer in fashion. Be it fashion management or fashion photography, they offer an array of courses which responds to the needs and demands of the fashion industry. The entrance to the academy is hidden in a small pathway right next to the City’s shopping mall, which is a shame, because the two flights of wonderfully crafted

O94

brownbook magazine

marble floor steps leading to a big wooden door is gorgeous and gives this small academy a french style that everyone should see. When you enter the academy, you don’t really feel like you’re entering a school, IMA has the look and feel of a museum. With one information desk in the entrance and a stylish minimalisticly decorated waiting area, it sets itself apart from all other schools by providing its students with a luxurious setting in which to study fashion. Various pictures hang on the walls depicting the IMAs partner schools in the world, while sculptures made by IMA staff members decorate the staircases. While at the academy, we met with various students who were more than happy to give us an insight of their lives at the school and in fashion. Garen Celiktop is a 23 year old Bogazici University alumni whos family has been in the fashion industry for the past 57 years. To be able to continue this tradition, after studying public relations, he decided to join IMA. He says that the academy is the right place if one wants to learn the tools of the trade, that it provides disciplin and develops the creative mind. Being very new in the industry, he feels like those who deal with fashion need to get over their oversized egos and work for the common good. While we were at the academy, Garen and his friends were having sewing class, in a classroom full of sowing machines, concentration and hard

O95

Design â&#x20AC;ş Photo-essay

O96

brownbook magazine

work could be felt in the air. “At the Academy we work 20 hours per day and only sleep 4 hours” giggles Ceylan Zigoslu while working on one of her projects, fabrics in hand, studiously looking down at her sewing machine. Born in 1984, Ceylan graduated from the Sabanci University and decided that she wanted to further her studies in fashion before being able to brave the difficult world of designing and fashion photography. “I love fashion!” she says, “the industry changes constantly and so quickly which is why you need to be very active in your every day life in order not to fall back on the ongoing trends”. Ceylan would like to create designs which help consumers feel good, which make them happy. She believes that fashion is a great medium to be able to reach out to people. She views fashion as a form of art and is saddened that brands put more importance into fabric costs than the creative mind of the designer and the artistic side of creation. “I would like to work towards eliminating these boundaries”. “Unfortunately Turkey follows falls back in following fashion, while the world already has access to viewing collections for Summer 2010, we only have access to trends for 2009. Obviously this doesn’t apply to every designer. There are those with great visions and who create quality designs but those designs sometime scare the consumer. This could possibly be fixed by creating a more inviting environment for the end user”. She gets her inspiration from colors. She grew up in an environment where colors were very important due to her mother being an Arts History teacher, Ceylan says that she gets her inspiration from the love and hate relationship between colors. She also doesn’t agree with the fact that summer and winter fabrics cannot be mixed, she wants to force the boundaries of imagination and create a unique style. O97

Design â&#x20AC;ş Photo-essay

O98

brownbook magazine

She appreciates the fact that IMA does not limit her creativity. The academy owns the only fashion library in the country which she finds benefits a lot of the students. “Even a single hour spent at the Academy teaches you a lot. The fashion culture and history classes, the exhibitions we get to visit.. every aspect of the education given at the Academy benefits us. It doesn’t matter how big of a talent you are, you’ll only get noticed if you go in the right direction” she adds. We then ask Ceylan more about what she said in the beginning.. “Do you really only get 4 hours of sleep ?” “We’re receiving a fast track education at IMA so we’re going a bit faster than normal courses. I don’t mind this pace since I love what I’m doing but we cannot afford any time loss. Every minute counts. We’ve now come to the end of our first 10 weeks at the Academy. One of my favorite projects was the “T-shirts transformation” project. We got to pick our own themes and create T-shirts according to those themes. During our sewing classes we got to create different models of skirts. It’s especially during sewing class that we get to create and bring to life the designs that we have in mind. Our classes are not limited to the academy though, we get to visit exhibitions with the academy’s Art Director; Oylum O. Isozen, and we try to develop our artistic and creative senses by paying attention to the fashion around us”. She says that thanks to Market Research classes, she now sees things differently when she enters a store. They now have the means and tools in their minds to present their creations to the best of their abilities. “We also have sketching classes where we learn to sketch on paper and on computer. We try to find our own sketching style. Even though everything is now created on computers it’s very important to be able to sketch on paper, this gives us access to being able to sketch down our ideas into our sketchbooks. During the time I spend at IMA, I try to spend atleast an hour per day at the library because I believe that the knowledge in those books helps a lot my education. Thanks to the projects that we have in partnership with textile companies I believe that it will be easier to get ourselves out there and be recognized. I also think that our time at IMA will facilitate entrance to fashion schools abroad O99

Design â&#x20AC;ş Photo-essay

1OO

brownbook magazine

incase we would like to continue our post graduate education in an international environment”. Knowing that every minute counts, we decided to let Ceylan work on her project and sat next to Asu Aksu, another student at the academy. She also had fabric in her hand, sewing diligently and very professionally. Once she was done sewing, she hopped up off of her chair and held the skirt she had just completed to her waist with a big smile on her face. Asu is 28 years old and already has a lot of experience in the business world. She graduated from business management at one of the most prestigious universities in Turkey and joined IMA to be able to make her dream come true “Even though it might seem hard right now, I want to become a Trend Forecaster. Unfortunately there are only a couple of companies in the world who forecast

trends and none of them are based in Turkey. Trends are often affected by external things like war, natural disasters, political tension. Forecasters try to show the way to designers and inspire them. Unfortuantely in Turkey we get this information from international sources, some local companies have opened up very small departments but this is no way enough to be able to help the industry. My dream would be to work into developing this market in Turkey.” The Istanbul Moda Academy is actively forming these students to be able to face the harsh but wonderful world of fashion and is “the” most successful school to do so in Turkey right now. Tomorrows fashion designers, fashion managers, trend forecasters and artists are finally given a chance to shine and the correct tools to be tomorrows success stories. 1O1

Design â&#x20AC;ş Products

Stepping out in the right shoes

Brands that will last forever

1O3

Design â&#x20AC;ş Products

1O4

brownbook magazine

Fashion advocates in the Middle East, if you are lookbook lovers, look no further than here. We at brownbook look back on the collections that have passed and the collections that have just entered the shelves of our favorite stores. These are our picks of must haves brands that will stand the passing of time and will keep in your closet for a while, not just a season.

No.1. Fendi

No.5. Marc by Marc Jacobs

This mixture of suede and silk satin makes a perfect combination for this perfectly designed ankle boot.

This is the perfect replacement for those old black leather ankle boots. The velvet and patent leather with the laces twists the design of the plain black boot into something that is a fashion statement on its own.

No.2. Hollywould Extreme gold is a must in everyones closet, it’s the answer to sprucing up any outfit.

No.3. Jimmy Choo

No.6. Pan Tulipani This crochet and intricate weaving on this shoe is a master piece on it’s own, it may be a bit too doll like, but the details are impeccable.

These patened fushia pink sling backs are from the spring/ summer 09 collection of Jimmy Choo. There are two other colors from this collection which are orange & green, and they are flying off the shelves.

No.7. Dolce & Gabanna

No.4. Beverly Feldman

No.8. French Connection

This designer has been here for a while, but her collections are most popular in Asia & the States. Her shoes are the epitimy of punk rock and the best part is, the personalized quote you find on every shoe sole.

French Connection’s shoes have really picked up this past year, ranging from boots to sandals and heels, we applaud them as they are doing an amazing job

A classic design among all others from Dolce & Gabanna’s collection, we loved the pink leathered bow on the toes.

7-8

1O5

Agenda â&#x20AC;ş Report

Prevailing policewomen: Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best kept weapon 1O6

brownbook magazine

1O7

Agenda â&#x20AC;ş Report

1O8

brownbook magazine

Preface Having the courage to leap off buildings, face the enemy, and still hold together a family is one of the most challenging things imaginable, but these women are it all. Being given the oportunity to stand tall next to their male conterparts, Dubai’s police women are rising stars in the United Arab Emirates. We follow the history of how these women have beome an achieved what they are today. Writer: Sapana Patil Photographer: Sarah Simmons

The percentage of women in the workforce in GCC may be dismal, but the figures are definitely going up. 2008, in particular saw a surge of UAE women taking up careers in fields as varied as engineering; which was until now dominated by their male counterparts. Interestingly, women are also present in the police service. Though it is little known, women have been an integral part of Dubai’s police force for quite sometime now. From holding ranks of a Major or Captain to leading emergency outfits, women have been a pillar in the Emirate’s law

and order maintaining agency. Importantly, they lead a professional life similar to that of their male colleagues. A routine day in policewoman’s life involves rigorous exercises, practising shooting, running, diving, self-defence techniques, rappelling mountains, abseiling buildings and helicopters, conducting raids and undertaking security operations for citizens and VIPs. Dubai Police General Headquarters continually encourages women’s participation in maintaining 1O9

Agenda â&#x20AC;ş Report

11O

brownbook magazine

111

Agenda â&#x20AC;ş Report

112

brownbook magazine

the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s safety and parents to urge their wards to choose defence and security as their field of career. It has also been fair in its functioning and allocation of duties to its force of both genders. These women do not face bias on grounds of their gender or physical strength and are assigned work in all police departments and police stations, their duties are the same as policemen in all fields. Policewomen are equal in rank promotion as policemen. The highest military rank among women up till now is a lieutenant colonel. Dubai Police force, today about 15,000 strong, was founded on June 1, 1956 in Naif with only 29 members. But it was not until late 70â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that Dubai Police General thought of recruiting policewomen to fill

a stringent need for women in police work fields. On November 5, 1977, Dubai Police achieved its aim by recruiting the first batch of 18 policewomen. The women had joined the police training school in Jumeirah for a four-month training program, where they were subjected to an extensive training to qualify themselves in militarily and legal issues. This was looked upon as a good start for the nation.

Gulfâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first all-woman quick-response team to act as bodyguards to heads of state, ministers, top officials and their families, particularly women. The six candidates were chosen from Protective Security and Emergency squad of 42 females.

After many years since the graduation of the first batch, women have proved their active role in society in legal, civil and military work by challenging difficulties with a high spirit. Today the policewomen represent a fundamental factor for police work. Earlier last year, Dubai Police Department set up 113

Agenda â&#x20AC;ş Social Report

114

brownbook magazine

Headscarves or Hejab (in Arabic), is perhaps the world’s most versatile garment. Worn in different shapes and styles, it’s found use by observant married Christian women in Medieval Europe, Bedouins, elderly ladies in Eastern Europe sporting babushkas and of course, by Muslim women the world over. More and more women are altering the use of the Hejab from a mundane religious accessory, to a malleable fashion statement that conveys a sense of individuality, along with chastity and/or modesty. The last 20 to 30 years has seen a boom in its use by women in the Middle East, and most notably so in some of the more secular societies of the region, such as Lebanon, Egypt and nations towards western Africa. The degree to which this trend is propelled by a growing alienation from Western commercialism and values, or a reflection of growing Islamist influence, is a matter of debate – but what does seem certain is that these days Middle Eastern women have as many reasons and styles for wearing one. Indeed, hejab’s are forming a hot new trend in Western fashion, with big designer names conveying their appeal as a return to a more modern meshing of elegance and chastity. Ultimately, the Hejab in the Muslim world now stands at an interesting crossroad. Whether you see it as sneakily reflecting more and more of the Western values it supposedly stands against, or as simply fostering a compromise between the allure of tradition and the pressure of modernity (or vice versa), what is clear is that the fashion world has certainly laid its gaze on this particular clothing item.

Hijab à la mode

what is the headscarf today? Illustrators: Reem Ali Adeeb & Mariam Roumani

115

Inaugural Exhibition A Survey of Contemporary Art Tuesday, November 4th, 2008

DALE CHIHULY HUNT SLONEM GARY KOMARIN LINA BINKELE TONY BERLANT A. RAHIM SHARIF FRED EVERSLEY ROBERT R. ZAKANITCH ERNST VAN LEYDEN BRUCE HELANDER JOHN TORREANO SAMER TABBAA NIZAR SABOUR ALEX DE FLUVIÀ RALF ONSO GSCHWEND EBRAHIM BU - SAAD MONTOYA & ORTIZ YURI GEVORGIAN MARC SIJAN PAUL AHO CURTIS KELLY DAVID HEWITT SUSAN P. COCHRAN

NIZAR SABOUR, UNTITLED (2006), Mixed media, 100 x 100 cm

Travel › Navigation

The Fashion Industry’s Secret Society Saudi Arabia

117

Travel › Navigation

Preface With the economic gloom hovering over our heads, the vanishing jobs, and the pay-cheques that seem to ‘roll over and die’, contemplating fashion and color remains a safe haven to relax and express hope. This article will be consumed by an attempt to dig deep into Saudi lifestyle and fashion sense, to find styles that you can wear around your neck and that hold the advantage of cultural aging that is uniquely Saudi. Writer: Omayyah Omar Photographer: Soraya Darwish Book I – Where to Go, What to Do, Who to See When it comes to Saudi Arabia, it takes a person who is ‘in the know’ to point out the venues and events that are “musts”, as well as the leading names in setting the trends on the Saudi fashion scene. BrownBook interviewed some of the most prominent names in the Saudi Fashion Industry for feedback and information. Outlets As with most other places, the number of mediocre shops and malls is, of course, countless. So this article will only house above-the-average places where you money will be truly well spent, where you will have professional care and internationally recognized standards- an absolute must for, say, skin care or shoes. One such great boutique is DNA which offers “life style”, as it’s president Deena Al-Juhani put it. “It sells everything from candy and postcards to clothes and shoes; it offers a fun experience for the senses [fashion] and mind [culture].” In DNA you can shop delicious brands like Christian Louboutin , Azzedine Alaia, Miu Miu and many, many more. Events: the place to be Fashion Charity Events: held in a given city’s hotels, conference rooms or other social venues, they often show-case and sell fashion and jewelry, with the proceeds dedicated to a charitable case. Ramadan is the most popular season for such charities. Fashion shows: these are unisex (usually female targeted) and often have a lavish catwalk amid a showroom, with models strutting back and forth in multi-layered chiffon and embroidery by various Saudi and Arab designers. Many of these shows are looked to for the seasonal trends of hair, makeup and accessories. 118

brownbook magazine

119

Travel › Navigation

Daily life: for a Saudi woman, personal style is greatly expressed in the privacy of indoors residences, at school, universities, conferences, or any other line of work, and – of course – family gatherings and social occasions. The Crowd: designer and consumer A few minutes of basic googling suffices in unraveling snippets of Saudi designers and their work on the worldwide web. A little more research within the consumer circle produces more feedback on the designers who are setting trends. Designer Yahya Bishri has created a real learning curve in terms of his accomplishments. A native of 12O

brownbook magazine

a small village near Jeddah, Bishri came as far as having Boutiques in Jeddah, Riyadh and Paris. But what he seems to be most proud of is a firm belief in his role in shaping style and taste in Saudi. On a report for BBC’s ‘Middle East Business Report’ Bishri says he was attacked in his beginnings for “being destructive to the culture”, but was later accepted and encouraged. Now he has cultivated a devoted clientele base, and his business harvests over 15 millions dollars a year. He is planning on opening boutiques in Doha and Dubai soon.

such as Fawziyah Al-Tobaiyeb are professionals at just that. Al-Tobaiyeb is especially popular for “taking the vibrant colors and basic design of a jalabiya, and turning it –magically- into an attractive lush design for wedding dresses”, says Soad Al-Toraifi, a young lady in her early twenties, and one who deeply values the importance of style in her daily life. Toraifi, who works in a hospital adds, “to me fashion is important because it affects my mood, it helps me break through the boredom and routines of everyday life as a working woman.

A great and powerful tool is falling back onto traditional wear, modernizing it to make it match the needs and expectations of 21st century Saudi women (who can be extremely picky). Designers

[It is very important] to find styles that fit with my expression, that are very comfortable and that are practical for a working woman’s environment in Saudi.” Can fashion be used as an anti-depressant,

“The beauty of Arabian culture and Islamic religion is the mixture of two elements [for a women’s style], the veil and the clothes they wear. Therefore they are twice as much trendy.” Rima Ashemimry (Designer and president of Rimalya)

121

Travel › Navigation

I ask? “Of course!” answered our over-hyper interviewee, “Vibrant and bright colors make me feel better on a stressed day at work, and lift my spirits instantaneously!”. Another vibrantly pleasant designer is Rima Ashemimry, President and owner of Rimalya fashion House, she ensures that her brand – though luxurious – is made accessible to upper middle class customers, and she has boutiques extending all through the gulf: Bahrain, UAE, Qatar, Kuwait and Saudi. Rima explains how her own understanding of the creation of demand within the Middle Class helped her proceed in her career as a designer, “fashion trends are set by the most prominent designers and eventually find their way down to retailers’ shelves, [Shops that target the Middle Class] are affected by a combination of what the top designers are doing and by what their target market is looking for. You could say they are the best of both worlds.” Dina Sammakieh, of I Love Hishma Boutique, adds to this by saying, “[Yes], fashion should be fun and comfortable and I believe middle class Saudis understand that the most.” Book II – Fashion Real Women Wear: the nittygritty details Abaya: Traditionally this is a garment worn on 122

brownbook magazine

top of a woman’s clothes when she is in public, to cover her seductive shape , it is considered as an expression of humility and discreteness to be worn in a respectful and undisruptive way. It is one of the major fashion characteristics of the Gulf region, and has managed to remain as an indispensable part of a Saudi woman’s stylistic identity. The Abaya is a prime recipient of attention from Saudi fashion designers. You can see decorated trims, embroidered cuffs, laced up hem lines, and often a design on the back of the abaya. Visiting an abaya “gallery”, you find yourself almost unceremoniously attacked with loud busts of color and experimental design. “at the moment a lot of new hijab trends that suit modern day fashion … are being introduced” says Lina Malaika, Abaya designer who adds that these trends serve to “show how [Saudi] women are very keen on keeping a very elegant and classy look while still maintaining their religious duties and cultural identity”. “Abayas now have more color or are made in a different color all together. I carry beaded bandanas to be warn under the vale”, adds Dina Sammakieh, “ My best seller are ‘Muslim bathing suits’ that don’t embarrass me when warn in Europe or around the world. We have to ‘look beyond the vale’ and wear confidence and pride on our sleeves.”

Jalabiya: a dress-like garment that is fairly plain in its design, it flows down to the floor and more often than not has long sleeves. A designer’s ability often emerges in the types of fabric he chooses to use, the designs and colors he installs in addition to the original layout. A place like Al-Yashmac, is one of the best places to get a refined, quality jalabiya. As one interviewee stated, Al-Yashmac jalabiya is as essential as a classic Louis Vuitton bag; it is top-notch quality and never goes out of style. Prêt-à-Porter A hyper, satisfied customer habitually runs parallel to an over-worked designer – behind the scenes of such bouts of fashionable expression that catch unsuspecting eyes, there we find a less than perfect production infrastructure. Though Saudi is one of the most profitable consumer markets in the Middle East, Reema Bandar explains that it lacks the “skilled, low-cost, labor force in manufacturing” needed for fashion’s mass-production process. Yet, prêt-a-porter designers have found fertile grounds in Saudi. Rima Ashemimry is one such designer, her brand Rimalya aims at satisfying this market with ready-to-wear’s of colorful, modern vibrant clothes.

Book III – The Real Secret to Being Stylish The real secret to being stylish is one which lays in understanding that a luxurious life lays in the intimate moments, in a long therapeutic bath, a relaxing massage, an attentiveness to detail in every aspect – but most importantly, it is a mindset. This is why Saudi is filled – literally – with beauty care salons and spas, a place to give the inner you a makeover. The Yibreen Spa, which I personally took a virtual tour of seems to live up to its name: an oasis amid the scorching heat of Najd’s dessert. Its paths of stone pavements are lined with red flower-beds, and the soothing green of grass can be spotted everywhere (can you say “cost much?”), but the result is a pleasing well-worth-your-while one. “Style is [about] how you carry yourself, how you think and live.” Says Reema Al-Saud, a Co. Founder of the Yibreen Spa. Her pinion is reflected in the Spa’s mission – as stated on the webpage – to be present as, “a haven of luxury, a source of peace and harmony where mind, body and spirit can be relaxed and refreshed.” In fact, taking a virtual tour of the spa (http://www.yibreenspa.com) ensured that the word “harmony” became a persistent verbal tick that echoed in my head for the next hour.

This spa in particular is one which multi functions in that it provides its clientele with all they need to relax, and get ready for a big night out; from a gym with personal trainers, to a swimming pool, facial and massage specialist, and finally (my favorite part) professional mani’s and pedi’s, and a hair salon for a last minute fix up. Sounds like the kind of place I could be at for, say, 8-9 hours (with the company of a good book, of course). The most important clues which stand the test of time when it comes to being stylish, elegant and influential are simply put: to be confident even when you are not so sure, to hold your culture in very high estimation as you go through the world, and your imperfection will soon be setting trends. Where Do We Go from Here? The fashion industry in Saudi is doing pretty well. However, there is a great need for more choice. More Arab and Saudi designer labels are needed, and ones that are affordable luxury. Another thing is simply a wider variety in design: the duplicated trends that repeat themselves in many shops that seem identical can be quite stifling for the spectator. Last, but not least, more boutiques that invest in enriching the customer’s in-store experience with cafes, shopping assistance, fashion experimenting and so on.

1. Yasmeen Alsudairy - Owner of Anma Group, Jeddah,

Saudi Arabia, in one of their stores, Sid.

2. DNA Riyadh, Deena Al-Jehani, located on Takhasussi

street 6611, Al Rahmania, Riyadh

3. Dina Sammakieh, owner of ‘I Love Hishma’ 4. Lina Malaika (Freelance Abaya designer)

5. Faye Behbehani, Owner of Jasmin Box.

6. Jasmin Box store, located in on Rawdha Street, Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. www.jasminbox.com

7. Sid Store, www.sidconcept.com

8-9. Mahat Boutique, on Palestine street, www.mahat.com.sa

“Style is not what you wear but rather how you carry yourself, how you think and live” Reema Al-Saud (President of ALFA, CoFounder of Yibreen Spa Riyadh) 123

Travel › Story

Rashed AlQubaisi Origin: Abu Dhabi, UAE Age: 24 Shades - Ralph Lauren Shoes - From Kuwait

Caught off Guard Men x JBR

Instead of doing the typical photoshoot like any other magazine, we decided to step out on the streets of Dubai and catch men off guard at Dubai’s hippest new walkway, Jumeirah Beach Residence. We were taken aback by the men’s style and flare, whether its traditional kandoura with a twist or just plain shorts and a regular baseball cap. 129

Travel â&#x20AC;ş Story

Sultan Al Zuhair Origin: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Age: 22 Cap - Ed Hardy Shirt - Levis 13O

brownbook magazine

131

Travel â&#x20AC;ş Story

03 01 Faris Baker Origin: Dubai, UAE Age: 24 Watch - Harry Winston Shoes - Fares 02 Mohammed Al Ghoubi Origin: Koura, Lebanon Age: 18 Shirt + Jeans River Island Sweater - Retro 03 Mohammed Al Ghoubi Origin: Koura, Lebanon Age: 18 Shirt + Jeans River Island Sweater - Retro 132

brownbook magazine

04 Fawaz Samir Al Houli Origin: Kuwait City, Kuwait Age: 18 Shirt - Polo by Ralph Lauren Jeans - Gap Necklace - Vintage 05 Ziad AlRafai Origin: Tripoli, Lebanon Suit - Zara Shirt Maison Shoes - Bata Watch - Bvlgari (Limited Edition)

133

Travel â&#x20AC;ş Story

134

brownbook magazine

Jean Carl Saliba Origin: Brimana, Lebanon Sweater - H&M Jeans - Gap Necklace + Earring - Gold Souk, Dubai UAE Shoes - Converse

135

Travel › Story

Nadine is a graphic design graduate. She is 24 years old and she is known in her family and her friends as the “classy” member that everyone consults for a fashion advice.

06 136

brownbook magazine

06 Elie Dawoud Origin: Beit Mery, Lebanon Age: 26 Shirt - Cotton Cargo pants - Cool Kat Bag - HP Bracelet - Vintage Watch - Adidas 07 Hazem Bezreh Origin: Damascus, Syria Age: 23 Shirt - GFF 08 Abdulaziz + Yousef Akeel Origin: Jeddah, Saudi Arabia Age: 25 + 21 Jeans - Lucky Brand White Jeans - Calvin Klein Both shoes - D&G by Dolce and Gabbana 09 Alician Say Origin: Istanbul, Turkey Age: 33 Shirt - Superdry 137

Travel â&#x20AC;ş Story

138

brownbook magazine

Sett Hamsioglo Origin: Istanbul, Turkey Age: 28 Shirt - Cotton Shorts - Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neil Shoes - Puma Earring - Vintage

139

Thursday

08 Jan

20:30 (Arabic)

Friday

09 Jan

15:30 (Arabic) 19:00 (English) 21:15 (Arabic)

Saturday

10 Jan

19:00 (English) 21:15 (Arabic)

Sunday

11 Jan

19:00 (Arabic) 21:15 (English)

Monday

12 Jan

Off

Tuesday

13 Jan

19:00 (English) 21:15 (Arabic)

Wednesday

14 Jan

19:00 (English) 21:15 (Arabic)

Thursday

15 Jan

19:00 (Arabic) 21:15 (English)

Friday

16 Jan

15:30 (Arabic) 19:00 (English) 21:15 (Arabic)

Saturday

17 Jan

19h00 (English) 21h15 (Arabic)

Travel â&#x20AC;ş Destinations

Kuwaitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s booming online market

Seven stores that are bound to impress.

While on our quest to find fashion destinations in the Middle East that will impress you, we uncovered an online shopping paradise and all of them in the vicinity of Kuwait. For the past two years, more and more online stores are starting to open up, some with unbelieveable merchandise and some with just the intention of having an online store. Out of the 58 online stores we found in kuwait, we bring you the best seven.

3 142

brownbook magazine

No.1. www.gojiboutique.com gojiboutique aims to provide the cultured and fashion savvy women of the Middle East with diverse, unique and avant-garde fashion designers. Moreover gojiboutique offers their clientele exclusivity by ordering limited pieces from each item to prolong the feeling of satisfaction for each buyer.

No.2. www.krayvstore.com

Krayv is an eclectic online store for those who love neat, funky and smart stuff, for those who love to shop online but hate to browse for continuous hours. Products range from trendy accessories to home-ware.

No.3. www.cash-art.com This fashion line is specially designed with a fresh young approach. Created by a Kuwaiti national, Alia Al Naqeeb who has combined her love for design and fashion together to create an amazingly hip t-shirt brand. The store features a range of shirts on different fabrics, a brand to watch out for.

No.4. www.q8-fashion.com An unprecedented access to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cutting edge fashion designers. Q8 Fashion Boutique is a luxury online shopping portal in Kuwait. The merchandise on the site represents the best looks from the trendiest labels from London, Paris, Milan, New York and Los Angeles.

No.5. www.butterfly-g.com

Butterfly Gallery By Nour ALjasem has a great selection of personalized items. If your looking for crystals, fashion styles and runway looks all you need to do is check the store and shop for your style. Butterfly G have recently opened a physical store in Shamiyah Mall.

No.6. www.pinkmoonboutique.com A luxe online boutique that has an array of hip international brands all packaged in the stores signature pink tissue paper and black bags. My Pink Moon opened its first flagship store on the strip of Gulf Road, across the Seif Palace.

No.7. www.labiella.com

From Double Breasted Jacketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Pacifiers to Soap & Glory Great Shakes Hand Cream, this website is just starting up but is one to watch out for. The selection of items is limited but are each more exquisite than the next. 143

Wadi Haifa Port Sudan

r ve Ri le Ni Atbara

Khartoum

Chad

Wadi Madani

Darfur

Waw Ethiopia

Congo

Kenya