Peaks of the Balkans 12-day Trek from Kosovo

Peaks of the Balkans (12-days) Hiking Beyond Borders in the Western Balkans

This tour includes nine days of trekking on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail and a day exploring Kosovo's rich heritage and cultural elements at the beginning and end of the journey. It is suitable for fit hikers who are interested in getting to know the history, people and culture of the three traveled countries. Travelers should bring previous hiking experience, be willing to forego for one overnight the comfort of a hot shower and be able to walk up to eight hours.

Overview Arriving at the airport in Kosovo we head first to Peja, explore the city and visit the Patriarchate, the seat of the Serbian Orthodox church. A scenic drive takes us through the Rugova Canyon to the first guesthouse from where start the walk to Mt. Hajla. An ancient caravan route leads on a high route across the Jelenka Pass into Montenegro. Two overnights at the tranquil Lake Plav and the most dramatic of the Prokletije Mountains await in the Grbaja Valley. Through the heart of the Accursed Mountains we cross over into Albania's Theth, immerse in village life, history at the bloodfeud tower and have the opportunity to swim. The Valbona Pass is the most popular trai in the Albanian Alps. Leaving the remarkable Valbona NP behind we pass under Montenengro's highest peak Kolata into the remote corners of the border triangle, wilderness of the Gashi River NP and to the remote pasture Doberdol. The last hike takes us back into Europe's youngest country and to it's highest peak Gjeravica. We immerse in its rich past visiting the cities Gjakova, Prizren and another highlight, the UNESCO proclaimed Decani Monastery prior to our departure from the capital Pristina.

“Peaks of the Balkans” Highlights:     

hiking beyond borders in Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro optional climb of Kosovo’s highest peak Gjeravica (2.625m) and the Matterhorn of Albania travel through the Balkans Peace Park spanning five national parks authentic experiences staying with the shepherds on high alpine summer pastures visiting UNESCO proclaimed Monastery Decani on a guided tour with one of the monks

Duration: 12 days Group Size: 8-12 + team leader (may raise to 14 in 2016) Walks: 9x | Ø 6 1/2 hours (often plus optional, can be adapted) Lowest / Highest Point: Prizren 403m / Gjeravica 2656m Start & Finish: Pristina, Adem Jashari Airport Accommodation: simple mountain hut, family-run guesthouses and middle-class city hotels Luggage Transfers: yes, by horse and car Season: mid-June to mid-September (limited by Doberdol)

Tour Facts Services included: 

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accommodation: 1x overnight in basic shepherds huts (no showers or electricity) 5x stay in a family-run guesthouse (shared rooms and facilities) 5x accommodation in hotels (private rooms, ensuite bath) meals usually three per day, except arrival and departure days, usually packed lunch transfers according to itinerary as well as luggage transport with cars and horses entrance fees, including sights and museums border crossing applications English or German speaking guide (inquire for others) support of the group during their journey on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail

Not included:  airfare  compulsory overseas health insurance  gratitudes (ca. 35 EUR), drinks and souvenirs Hikers should bring the following equipment: Sturdy ankle-high hiking boots, rainwear, sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 25-40 liters backpack, 1.5 liters water gear, towel and swimsuit (optional).

Please note that suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of baggage with maximum weight of 15kg is included.

For the overnight in the mountain hut we suggest a sleeping bag liner (Hüttenschlafsack) for added personal comfort.

Please refer to the equipment check-list for more details.

Visitors are expected to respect the wildlife, leave what they find, dispose of their waste properly and to be considerate with locals.

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Europe’s Youngest Nation and Gateway to the Mountains Arrival in Kosovo, visit of Peja and the Serbian Patriarchate

Rendezvous at the Pristina airport, during the transfer to the foot of the Accursed Mountains and city Peja (83km/90min) we gather first impressions and the country is introduced. Upon we enjoy lunch from shared plates that offer traditional dishes of the Kosovarian highlands. On a city tour we discover Albanian and Ottoman heritage, learn more about traditional crafts on the covered bazaar, visit a felt-making workshop and admire filigree jewelry. At the entrance of the Rugova Canyon the seat of the Serbian church, the Patriarchate of Pec, is shown by one of the nuns who tell us more about the frescoes of the 13th century church and archbishops. Inside the canyon one can spot caves, climbing sites and the first Via Ferrate of the country. The narrow crack formed by the Bistrica River impresses with sheer walls, the last few kilometers are unpaved road that lead to a small village (25km/1h) with views to the “Red Rock” that dominates the mountainscape. A warm welcome awaits us at the family farmstead at 1.300 meters where also ethnographic items are collected. Over a traditional dinner we are introduced and discuss the program. After an eventful first day we anticipate the coming highlights of our adventure on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail.

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Blueberries, Flowers & views into Montenegro High above the Rugova Canyon and to Mt. Hajla (2.403m)

10km +6km

550m +650m

600m +650m

4:30h +3:30h

The first walk starts in our host’s garden between the stables, the ascent follows meadows and runs on hidden trails through pine forest rich in blueberries to the base of Mt. Hajla (1.800m). The climb of the peak on a steep circular route is optional. Once the ridge that forms the border with Montenegro is reached, one enjoys great views deep into the neighboring country from the 300m high cliff. There’s a good chance to find many rare plants like Edelweiss or the endemic Albanian lily on the slopes. The descent on another route is partly trail-less and leads back to the shelter at the base. On high altitude we continue on a now unused road to the highest of the 13 villages of Rugova and finish at another guesthouse in the scenic hamlet Drelaj. Our host wrote a book about his experience during the Kosovo conflict, the family keeps their own animals and is among the few that remain in the mountains year around.

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Hiking Beyond Borders from Kosovo to Montenegro Past glacial lakes to the greenest valley of the Alps and Lake Plav

15km

1150m

1050m

7:30h

We ascend through the idyllic pine forest and rest at two emerald glacial lakes (1.850m), at their banks prospers a wide range of alpine flora. We follow the now almost invisible trail as merchants used to when this was a caravan route connected to Shkodra. At Jelenka Pass (2.272m) we reach the highest point, from here the trail is lined with blueberries in late summer, passes pads of flowers and grey rock. Below us the shepherd settlement Roshkodol is visible and around us many peaks above 2.500m. Walking on top of ridge the terrain to Ravno Brdo Pass (2.178m) is almost level and affords good views. The pass proofs to be a magnificent viewpoint towards the rugged peaks ahead of us and into the lush valley of Babino Polje below. While we have freely crossed the border on foot, the shortest road connection still remains closed. From the tiny village a van takes us to our hotel in Plav (12km, 30min). Located right at the bank of Lake Plav (900m) you can swim and enjoy the sun set on its mirror-like surface during dinner.

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Grbaja Valley - Dramatic Prokletije Range Ridge walk with panoramic views of the Karanfili Karst Towers

12km

950m

900m

6:30h

The route in Montenegro’s Grbaja Valley is among the most beautiful in the Balkans. A short ride along the lakeshore shows traditional houses before arriving in the narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (2.461m). This is the most impressive part of the Accursed Mountains and dream of many climbers. Ascending through the ancient oak forest we enjoy great views from Mt. Can (1.863m) before climbing on the ridge to the summit of Mt. Taljanka (2.057m). Here the grey walls seem almost within our grasp and views gaze far into the Kelmend region of Albania.

From the first viewpoint part of the group can return on a similar path to the valley while the others tackle the summit and make their way on a longer route through the Vajusa Pass back to the Eko Katun where we jointly celebrate our great hike over cold drinks. In the afternoon there’s the option to visit the center of Plav, a tower house and private museum-like collection. The walk can also be skipped and day spend individually with sightseeing in Plav or relaxation at the lake.

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Through the Heart of the Accursed Mountains Into Albania with option to climb Mt. Arapi (2.217m)

11km +3km

550m +500m

900m +500m

6:15h +3h

On a 4wd vehicle we drive to the village Vusanje and visit the Grlja Waterfall or a karst spring named Eye of the Skakavica. The ice-cold little river is born from the snows high up in the mountains and surfaces here as a pupil-shaped spring. The mountain framed Ropojana Valley leads to a lake where we cross over into Albania, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once sealed boundaries. Several shepherd huts, some shacks others abandoned military posts, line the scenic trail that take us to the heart of the Alps. The canine tooth of Mt. Arapi (2.217m) is visible from afar, reaching the Peja Pass (1.711m) your guide will decide if the summit can be tackled. The ones that decide to pass the challenging peak, suitable for the experienced only, rest or go ahead to the village. The isolated location of the mountain provides breathtaking views. A steep descent on a well-trodden caravan path followed by a short ride take us to the village Theth.

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Albanian Traditions and Village Life The highlights of Theth, ancient Kanun and laid back Nderlysa

6km

150m

400m

3:00h

On a walk through the village we talk to the locals, visit the iconic church, famed waterfall and upon entering the lock-in tower dive into the history of the “kanun”. It is the perfect place to elaborate on the highland law code of Leke Dukagjini, its origins, impact and present day relevance. An old bridle path takes us to the village Nderlysa and a sumptuous lunch on a farmstead. The afternoon is at your disposable, can be spend swimming, in the garden under the fruit trees, exploring the bizarre glacial mills or on an optional walk to a Karst spring known for its play of colors as the “Blue Eye”. Later we return by car to Theth and can stop for a view at the Grunas Canyon before reaching the guesthouse of the previous night. There is the possibility to listen to highland music performed on Lahuta and Cifteli, two traditional Albanian instruments.

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The Grand Crossing: Hike Theth to Valbona On par with the Mountains on Valbona Pass (1811m)

12km

1125m

725m

6:30h

Once more accompanied by mules that carry our load we set out for the transfer hike across Valbona Pass (1815m) – a highlight of each journey. The initial walk through the village reveals its full extent, from the higher terraces the hamlets lie spread below. The fairy-tale beech forest provides cover from the sun while we gain height, we pause to take a breath and for the views on meadows and near springs. On the pass the surrounding peaks appear on a par and sweeping views of both valleys fascinate even the seasoned traveler. Weather permitting we take the lunch break ahead of the descent to Rragam where a vehicle will pick us up for the final leg through the mighty dried up riverbe. When the daylight fades we watch the alpine glow on the rugged peaks over dinner in the idyllic garden. No surprise many Albanian women are named after the beautiful valley. Overnight in a small mountain hotel with all amnesties.

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The Highest Peaks of the Alps and Wilderness Beyond Hike over the Perslopit or through a canyon to Cerem

14km 10km

1200m 500m

950m 100m

8h 4h

The trail starts nearby the hotel with a long ascent and views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps, including Jezerca (2.694m). After passing deserted pastures and a forest section a stepped alpine valley is reached. Here the solitary mountains are all ours. The Perslopit Pass (2.039m) is the highest point and forms the border with Montenegro at the base of the country’s highest mountain Kolata. Past an interesting snow cave and through a karst labyrinth we return to Albania and descend with views of the valley over meadows and meeting shepherds to the isolated village Cerem. If the weather doesn’t permit it we will walk another shorter route through a canyon to reach the simple guesthouse. Cerem is the last outpost before the Gashi NP, without mobile phone signal or electricity. Meals are prepared from the ingredient in the garden, water for washing is heated on a stove and the hospitality of our hosts makes up for the lack of comfort.

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Pastoral Lifestyle in the remote Border Triangle Panoramic hike to the summer pastures of Doberdol

16km

1300m

650m

7h

First through the village and over meadows we walk for a short section on a dirt road to the border and pass once more through former Yugoslav territory. Along the way we sample wild berries, admire the plant life and views to Montenegro’s highest peak Zla Kolata (2.534m). With a bit of luck we spot the Golden Eagle (Albania’s national animal) at the rim of the deep river canyon while walking on high altitude. The slopes of the Shkelzen Massif are speckled with alpine pastures, some of them are on our route and we have coffee with shepherds before arriving at the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (1.750m). In the simple huts we will relinquish the comfort of a bathroom in return for hospitality. The shepherd families prepare our meals and we have the opportunity to learn more about the lifestyle in the remote highlands. Most of them spend three month with their herds, adding a side income by collecting herbs, berries and recently also hosting guests.

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14km +2km

Europe’s newest Nation and its highest Mountain Cross-border trek into Kosovo and climb of Mt. Gjeravica

950m +200m

950m +200m

7:00h +1h

Wishing farewell to the families, we pass together with the pack mules through the wide open valley under Tromeda / Trekufiri (2.366m), it is the peak where the borders of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro meet in one point. Over blueberry covered slopes the border with Kosovo is climbd and for the first time we watch Mt. Gjeravica (2.656m) sitting enthroned and isolated over the alpine tundra that is dotted with glacial lakes. Climbing from the saddle to Kosovo’s highest summit is optional, the views over the Dukagjin plain are splendid from both vantage points. Before finishing our last hike we can refresh at the lakes. From a shepherd settlement (1.780m) we continue by jeep to Gjakova (1:30h), the city served as a trade center for the whole area, developed a large bazaar and rich merchant caste. Back in town the contrast between the meadows couldn’t be any bigger but we enjoy the comfort of a hotel in the heart of the old town.

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Cultural Treasures and the Kosovo Question Gjakova and Prizren old towns, the Serbs of Kosovo

The day is dedicated to the unknown treasures of Kosovo and provides an overview of the past & present situation of the country. In Gjakova we visit the bazaar area, Hadumi Mosque and sip expresso in the old han. On route to Decane (25km/40min) a cobbled street, lined with tower houses reveals what the area once look liked. The Serbian perspective on Kosovo is best experienced visiting the monastery, a monk tells us about the 13th cent church that miraculously survived all conflicts unharmed and gained UNESCO World Heritage status – a truly spiritual place.

In a Serbian enclave (50km/1h) we meet a family of longstanding wine making tradition, they offer lunch and sampling of their grapes - are among the few that remain in Southern Kosovo. In the afternoon we reach our destination Prizren (28km, 40min). It is the cultural capital, was seat of the Ottoman government , the castle provides panoramic views of the mosques and hamam. In one of the cafes we absorb the vibrant oriental atmosphere and talk about its historical importance and struggle for independence. Our day concludes with a final sumptuous dinner, we recall the past days and celebrate a successful and memorable journey on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail!

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A great Journey on the Peaks of the Balkan Trail ends Farewell from the Balkans

Time permitting you can individually stroll the city or we visit the capital Pristina before the departure. The last days presented us a very different image of Kosovo that stands in stark contrast to the rural areas we explored in the Accursed Mountains. Our multi-faceted journey through Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro ends with a single timed transfer to the airport (70km, 1h). We wish each other farewell and you a safe trip home.