The Accursed Mountains Hiking Beyond Borders in Albania and Montenegro
Overview From Podgorica you travel through the wild Dinaric Alps into the Komovi Massif where your trip kicks off with the stunning climb of Mt. Vasojevicki (2.461m). On ancient caravan trails you cross through the heart of the Accursed Mountains into formerly isolated Albania. In Thethi and Valbona National Parks you dive deeper into the history and traditions of the highlanders which live secluded in this harsh environment. On your way out you enjoy the tranquil ferry ride across the Koman Lake and cultural capital of Northern Albania, the city Shkoder. “Accursed Mountain” Highlights: • • • • •
traveling on one of the world’s most exciting railway lines climbing a 2.400m peak of the Komovi Mountains cross the through the heart of the Accursed Mountains to Thethi and Valbona NPs insights in traditional mountain lifestyle and warm hospitality a boat ride on the Fjord-like Lake Koman
Duration: 8 days Group Size: up to 15 persons Accommodation: simple, clean family-run guesthouses and middle-class city hotels Difficulty: 3/4 – 2nd day climb and 2 longer transfer hikes Walks: 5x | >5:30h average walking time - almost all can be shortened/extended Luggage Transfers: yes, by horse and car
Tour Facts Services included:
4x nights in alpine guest houses, shared facilities and rooms with 3-6 beds 2x accommodation in comfortable hotels, private rooms with en-suite bathroom 1x overnight in mountain chalets sleeping 5 persons full board (meals in restaurants and picnics) English speaking mountain and cultural guide all transports according to program incl. transfers from/to airport and ferry trip luggage transport (see details below) entrance fees
At your own:
airfare insurance (compulsory for every participant) tips and personal expenses for drinks or souvenirs
Hikers should bring the following equipment: Sturdy hiking boots (preferable with ankle protection), light rainwear (90% of rain falls in winter), sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 25 to 40 liters backpack, 1.5 liters water gear, towel and swimsuit (optional). Please note that suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of baggage with maximum weight of 15kg is included. Visitors are expected to respect the wildlife, leave what they find, dispose of their waste properly and to be considerate with locals.
1st
Arrival in Montenegro & Travel into the Dinaric Alps From Podgoroca through the Moraca Canyon into Komovi
After our Rendezvous at Podgorica airport (33m ASL) we enjoy lunch and the swimming opportunity at the nearby waterfall (10min). Depending on the schedule we continue from the plain either by train on one of Europe’s most beautiful railways or by minibus through the Moraca Canyon to the ski resort Kolasin (90min) and further up into the ancient forests surrounding the Komovi Massif (1h). The first night is spend in alpine huts on 1.800m. Enjoy the spectacular views of the three Komovi peaks and over the area you’re going to trek in the following days and stretch your legs on a stroll before dinner, when we go through details of the program. After an eventful first day in the Balkans we are wishing each other a good night and anticipate the coming highlights.
2nd
The Karst Towers of Komovi and Lake Plav Climb of Mt. Vasojevicki (2.461m)
9km
775m
775m
6:15h
The first outing takes you to the highest point of this journey, the distinct Vasojevicki Peak. For a first outing it is not undemanding but very scenic trail that starts over green meadows, but soon enters increasingly steep terrain and crosses the occasional scree field. The multitude of colorful alpine plants is astonishing and our efforts well rewarded once the saddle is reached and views reach far across the Accursed Mountains. Further up the vertical North face rises awe-inspiringly in front of us, from its top one can point out every major peak of the region – including the highest one, Jezerca. After returning on the same path to the huts, we continue across mountain roads to our waterside hotel in the small town of Plav (90min). The lake at 900m altitude awaits for a refreshing splash and an optional visit to a privately run “ethnographic museum” in a traditional tower house can be conducted. There’s also a small supermarket should you have any needs.
3rd
Through the Heart of the Accursed Mountains Into Albania with option to climb Mt. Arapi (2.217m)
11km +3km
550m +500m
900m +500m
6:15h +3h
On a 4wd vehicle we drive to the village Vusanje and visit the Grlja Waterfall or a karst spring named Eye of the Skakavica. The ice-cold little river is born from the snows high up in the mountains and surfaces here as a pupil-shaped spring. The mountain framed Ropojana Valley leads to a lake where we cross over into Albania, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once sealed boundaries. Several shepherd huts, some shacks others abandoned military posts, line the scenic trail that take us to the heart of the Alps. The canine tooth of Mt. Arapi (2.217m) is visible from afar, reaching the Peja Pass (1.711m) your guide will decide if the summit can be tackled. The ones that decide to pass the challenging peak, suitable for the experienced only, rest or go ahead to the village. The isolated location of the mountain provides breathtaking views. A steep descent on a well-trodden caravan path followed by a short ride take us to the village Theth.
4th
Albanian Traditions and Village Life The highlights of Theth, ancient Kanun & laid back Nderlysa
6km
150m
400m
3:00h
On a walk through the village we talk to the locals, visit the iconic church, famed waterfall and upon entering the lock-in tower dive into the history of the “kanun”. It is the perfect place to elaborate on the highland law code of Leke Dukagjini, its origins, impact and present day relevance. An old bridle path takes us to the village Nderlysa and a sumptuous lunch on a farmstead. The afternoon is at your disposable, can be spend swimming, in the garden under the fruit trees, exploring the bizarre glacial mills or on an optional walk to a Karst spring known for its play of colors as the “Blue Eye”. Later we return by car to Theth and stop to look at the Grunas Canyon before reaching the guesthouse of the previous night. There might be the possibility to listen to highland music performed on Lahuta and Cifteli, two traditional Albanian instruments.
5th
The Grand Crossing: Hike Theth to Valbona On par with the Mountains on Valbona Pass (1811m)
12km
1125m
725m
6:30h
Once more accompanied by mules that carry our load we set out for the transfer hike across Valbona Pass (1815m) – a highlight of each journey. The initial walk through the village reveals its full extent, from the higher terraces the hamlets lie spread below. The fairy-tale beech forest provides cover from the sun while we gain height, we pause to take a breath and for the views on meadows and near springs. On the pass the surrounding peaks appear on a par and sweeping views of both valleys fascinate even the seasoned traveler. Weather permitting we take the lunch break ahead of the descent to Rragam where a vehicle will pick us up for the final leg through the mighty dried up riverbe. When the daylight fades we watch the alpine glow on the rugged peaks over dinner in the idyllic garden. No surprise many Albanian women are named after the beautiful valley. Overnight in a small mountain hotel with all amnesties.
6th
Valbona – Queen of the Mountains Hamlet Kukaj, colorful Meadows and hospitable Shepherds
10.5km
700m
700m
5:00h (+2h)
Refreshed we start our hike to Kukaj, an isolated hamlet where only two families reside, below bunkers that once protected the border are now scattered in the riverbed. The windy path takes us over lush meadows ablaze with the colors of a wide variety of spring flowers to a shepherd hut on 1.650m. In the communist period when this was a no-go area and the building used as a military barrack. We admire the wild and romantic jagged mountain scenery, can sample fresh milk products and opt to climb higher to an ancient crossing at the Montenegrin border or to stay and enjoy the views. At 2.040m a weathered border pyramid remains as a reminder of the isolation Albania once endured, from here views reach to the most dramatic parts of Montenegrin Prokletije. Catching a last glimpse at the Alps highest peak Jezerca (2.694m) we descent on a different path to another guesthouse. When daylight fades we watch the alpine glow over dinner in the idyllic garden, no surprise many women are named after the beautiful valley.
7th
Lake Koman, Drin Canyons and Shkoder Tranquil Ferry Ride and Northern Albania’s Capital
We rise early for the transfer to the ferry dock in Fierze (43km/90min). The picturesque Koman Reservoir loops similar to a Norwegian fjord through sheer rock walls and is considered another highlight of the Albanian Alps. The ferry stops at several points to pick up locals from remote villages before arriving at the Koman Dam (~3h). By car we continue through the windy Drin Canyons into the coastal plain and to important historical city Shkoder (90min). After check-in and time permitting we can swim in one of the villages at the shores of the Balkans biggest lake and visit the Rozafa Castle to learn about the attached legend. Later the cafés bust with people who flock for a stroll to the pedestrian area that swells Italian atmosphere and is lined with bourgeoisie town houses, reminder of the cities rich past. We immerse ourselves in the buzz of the bazaar or in Albania’s past captured on film at the Marubi photo library. Time to enjoy an espresso with the locals or meet an artisan before the daylight fades over an affluent traditional dinner.
8th
Farewell from Albania We hope you return one day ď Š
Our multi-faceted then journey ends with a single timed transfer to Podgorica Airport where we wish each other farewell and you safe journey back home. We hope you enjoyed the past days of your multi-faceted and memorable journey through Albania! Looking for more? Extend your stay by adding days at the beaches of the Riviera, join a tour in Southern Albania or explore the other Balkans nations.