BelGuest Autumn 2012 by miroslav zeljug

Belgrade and Serbia Visitors’ Magazine

STORY ABOUT BELGRADE HOSTELS INTERVIEW VLADIMIR MACURA WINE AND FRUIT OF BELGRADE TOS RECOMMENDS IVANJICA & FESTIVAL NUŠIĆIJADA CITY EVENTS & SIGHTSEEING

Volume 12, AUTUMN 2012

free copy

B el grade Autumn Col or Pale t te Photograph: Danilo Peternek

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

IN THIS ISSUE / IZ SADRŽAJA 6 6

B E LG R A D E H O S T E L S THE CHARMS OF LITTLE LODGINGS ŠARM MALOG PRENOĆIŠTA

12 INTERVIEW - VLADIMIR MACURA ADDRESS: ZENITH 1 ADRESA: ZENIT 1 12

24 LITERARY GUIDE - BRANKO MILJKOVIĆ PRINCE OF POETRY PRINC POEZIJE 2 9 D Y N A S T I C TA L E S - K I N G M I L A N O B R E N O V I Ć POLITICAL AND EMOTIONAL PROFILE POLITIČKI I EMOTIVNI PROFIL 37

BELGRADE EVENTS - DOGAĐAJI BEOGRADA

4 8 I N T E R V I E W - D R . R O B E RT R I S C H , I S B D I R E C TO R HOME IS NOT A PHYSICAL PLACE DOM JE METAFIZIČKO MESTO 5 1 S I E PA HEALTHY FOOD – A CHANCE FOR SERBIA ZDRAVA HRANA – ŠANSA SRBIJE 5 5 T O U R I S T O R G A N I S AT I O N O F B E LG R A D E SPECIAL TOURS & PROGRAMMES POSEBNE TURE I PROGRAMI

6 6 BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING 7 8 T O S R E C O M M E N D S - I VA N J I C A THE BIRTHPLACE OF RURAL TOURISM RODNO MESTO SEOSKOG TURIZMA

8 6 T O S R E C O M M E N D S – F E S T I VA L N U Š I Ć I J A D A MORE THAN A GAME VIŠE OD IGRE 104 BELGRADE INFO

Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Privredno društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Gočka 18/2 tel./fax 2332-803, mob tel. 063/84 97 582 e-mail: office@belguest.rs www.belguest.rs Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.rs www.tob.co.rs Publisher - Izdavač: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Copublisher - Suizdavač: Dejan Veselinov, direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Jadranka Đorđević Contributors - Saradnici: Jelena Tasić, Jovo Anđić, Jovanka Veselinović, Olga Latinčić, Marija Vukoslavljević, Dragana Barjaktarević Photographs- Fotografije: Darimir Banda, Đorđe Rusić, Dragan Bosnić Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković, Mark R. Pullen Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević English language editors - Lektori za engleski: Mark R. Pullen, Stefan Hayden, Vladimir Petrović Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design&Layout - Dizajn i prelom: Miroslav Zeljug Print - Štampa: Službeni glasnik, Beograd Front Page - Naslovna strana: Collage by Nikola Đukić The central image by photographer Marko Sovilj, Belgrade Fashion Week BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief Dragana Marković. - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Službeni glasnik). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010.: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

BelGuest JESEN | AUTUMN 2012

E D I T O R I A L

U V O D N I K

D e a r fe l l ow c i t i ze ns a nd gue s ts,

Belgrade, an ancient European city at the confluence of the rivers Sava and Danube, has - thanks to the commitment of the City’s Tourism Organisation - gained the image of a city with an open heart and good entertainment that is alive for 24 hours a day, is interesting to tourists and its many visitors and also an image as a good host of important international cultural, sporting and other events and happenings. During the ‘’European Heritage Days’’ event we are discovering its hidden beauties, traces of extraordinary history and the true values of its cultural heritage, with an open ambition for the city to become a tourist destination of the first category and for Belgrade to be positioned as an important centre of cultural tourism in this part of Europe. Following the vision of development opportunities as the city of the future of Southern Europe, Belgrade has accelerated its pace. Belgrade longs for sustainable European tourism, alongside preserving and revitalising its heritage, having a responsible approach to its management and use, as well as respecting the heritage as a development resource with great possibilities. In order to meet the needs of businessmen and tourists, the accommodation offer is becoming ever richer, ranging from exclusive hotels and private houses, to the cheapest accommodation offer in hostels. The Secretariat for Economy of the City of Belgrade and the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade are doing everything to ensure that, no matter how many times you come here, you are always awaited by a surprise, by a richer and more interesting tourist offer, not only in the city centre, but also in rural areas of the city, and to make it increasingly accessible to you by means of modern technologies. Cosmopolitan and European-orientated, focused on dynamic growth and development, the city is striving with particular care to maintain the real values on the road to the city’s candidacy to be declared the European Capital of Culture 2020, taking advantage of a number of tourist potentials and its authenticity, warmth and the beauty of encounters and hospitality, making it distinctive and unique as a tourist destination. Aleksandar Milošević Secretary of the City Secretariat for the Economy

D ra g i s u g ra đ a n i i dra gi gos ti,

Beograd, drevni evropski grad na ušću Save u Dunav, zahvaljujući angažovanju Turističke organizacije, stekao je imidž grada otvorenog srca i dobre zabave, koji živi 24 časa, zanimljiv turistima i brojnim posetiocima, i ime dobrog domaćina značajnih međunarodnih kulturnih, sportskih i drugih događaja i manifestacija. Tokom „Dana evropske baštine“ otkrivamo njegove skrivene lepote, tragove nesvakidašnje istorije, prave vrednosti kulturnog nasleđa, sa ambicijom da se kao turističko mesto prve kategorije postavi i kao značajan centar kulturnog turizma u ovom delu Evrope. Sledeći viziju o razvojnim mogućnostima grada budućnosti južne Evrope, Beograd je ubrzao svoj korak. Teži održivom evropskom turizmu, uz očuvanje i revitalizaciju nasleđa, odgovoran odnos u njegovom upravljanju i korišćenju, poštujući nasleđe kao veliku razvojnu mogućnost. U susret potrebama poslovnog sveta i turista, smeštajna ponuda je sve bogatija, od ekskluzivne u hotelima i privatnom smeštaju, do najpovoljnije u hostelima. Sekretarijat za privredu grada Beograda i Turistička organizacija čine sve da vas, ma koliko puta dolazili, uvek čeka neko iznenađenje, sve bogatija i zanimljivija turistička ponuda ne samo u centru nego i u ruralnim delovima grada i da vam, korišćenjem modernih tehnologija, bude sve dostupnija. Kosmopolitski i evropski orijentisan, usmeren na dinamičan razvoj i napredak, sa posebnom brigom nastoji da sačuva prave vrednosti na putu ka kandidaturi za Evropsku prestonicu kulture 2020, da iskoristi brojne turističke potencijale, ali i svoju autentičnost, toplinu i lepotu susreta i gostoprimstva, po čemu je prepoznatljiv i jedinstven kao turistička destinacija. Aleksandar Milošević, sekretar Sekretarijata za privredu

Skupština grada Beograda City Assembly of Belgrade

Turistička organizacija Beograda Tourist Organization of Belgrade

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

THE CHARMS OF LITTLE LODGINGS The Andy Warhol Room at the Pop-Art Hostel

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

That Belgrade has become a leader of the region’s tourism is evidenced by the large number of major projects in the HoReCa industry, event organisation, the congress industry... the shiny little gems in the mosaic that represents the picture of a city as a tourist destination are the hostels. At the moment there are more than eighty of them, which is a dizzying figure and a phenomenon worthy of attention. We visited several hostels and discovered “small zen paradises”, original artistic concepts and interesting impressions of the guests of our city’s hostels.

oys and girls need to get out into nature, that’s a necessity for them as a counterbalance to sitting at a school desk, - wrote teacher Richard Schirrmann in the Cologne newspapers in 1903. Schirrmann initiated the idea of student travels and thereby became the founding father of youth hostels. Three years after the publication of the article, he opened the first hostel in the world in Altena castle, near Iserlohn, Germany. Hostels soon began springing up all over Europe. The Scouts Association of Yugoslavia was established in Sarajevo in 1920. It ceased functioning during World War II, but resumed its work in 1952 in Belgrade. In February this year, the Scouts & Youth Hostels Association of Serbia, the country’s only national association of hostels, became a full member of Hostelling International, the International Youth Hostel Federation. NOMADIC SOULS Wikipedia continues to state that Belgrade has about ten hostels. However, that number is now actually eight times higher. Low real estate prices and misconceptions of foreigners with thick wallets led to high competition on the market. Travellers who opt for hostel accommodation are mostly adventurers who have set out on their route to conquer Europe and the Balkans. No matter if they are even distinguished professors or scientists, having opted for several months or sometimes even years of journey, they gave up wasting their money in advance. “The hostel is the type of accommodation most commonly used by backpackers – people who travel where they want and when they want, trying to restrict using the sum of money at their disposal so that their journey can last as long as possible. They do not come to work or on holiday,” says Nikola Vacić of the Scouts & Youth Hostels Association of Serbia, who is also owner of the Sun hostel. There are no boundaries of age, profession or culture limiting hostel guests. They come from all over the world, driven by the same spark of curiosity. They don’t follow the tour guides because they are not classic tourists. They are nomadic souls who seek to synchronise their step and breathing with the city they have arrived in. They opt for hostels because hostels are the places where they

The garden of Hedonist Hostel can get the directions they need from the hostel receptionists. Žarko Gvero, secretary general of the Scouts & Youth Hostels Association, describes hostels as a great place for socialising and exchanging experiences, saying that “the hostel staff members are expected not only to be professional, but also to be friendly”. And, indeed, reading the books of guests’ impressions from various hostels there is a veritable chorus of praise for hostel staff repeated. If you are travelling alone, rest assured that you’ll make friends here right away. (Star) The staff members work very diligently so that you can have an enjoyable stay. They will give you so much tea and coffee that you might have a heart attack. (Star) The owners of the hostel are the sweetest people we have ever met. (Hedonist) A POSITIVE SURPRISE “Our guests mostly know very little about Belgrade, so they’re very surprised when they come. Positively, of course. Their main impression is that our people are friendly and that the city is abundant with greenery,” says Milovan Mitrović,

GUESTS THAT THE STORM BROUGHT The nature of hostel business is such that interesting things turn up all the time. For five years, as long as Arkabarka has existed, quite a lot of interesting things have piled up, but Miodrag Zrnić singles out as his favourite story as the one about a couple from Austria who set off to sail from Vienna to the Black Sea in a wooden rowing boat. “They were caught on the Danube by a storm as they were passing by the raft, so they asked us if they could tether their boat until the storm subsided. When they found out that we were a hostel, they were thrilled and they immediately decided to spend the night with us. They stayed for a whole week!” owner of Hedonist hostel, recalling the experiences of his guests. An average tourist’s stay in Belgrade is quite short, about 2.2 days. However, it often happens that they extend their planned stay. They get seduced by the charm of Belgrade, the warmth of Belgraders and the ease of communicating with them – in any language! They get thrilled by the

BelGuest JESEN | AUTUMN 2012

fortress that is alive at night too, the lake in the middle of the city, the bohemian end of Skadarlija, the promenade alongside the river and life on the river. “Pop Art often offers a better time than the rafts, so guests stay with us all night,” adds Fatma Tina Al-jidah on the list of the favourite places of her guests and the hostel itself. Belgrade gets under the skin of foreigners so much that not only do they return, but some of these travellers even decide to stay in Serbia. “The powerful thing about hostels is that you can influence human destinies, change one’s life course. We advised one guy where to go out and there he met a girl who he later married. There are also many who return to Belgrade because we have become good friends in the meantime,” says Djordje Milojević from the Star hostel. A BOOK AS A REASON FOR PILGRIMAGE “Hostel anecdotes are wonderful. In that way our job gains its full meaning,” says Nikola Vacić from Sun hostel. He recalls a variety of interesting guests – the Germans who came to Belgrade by kayak, the Tunisians who have returned to the hostel for the past three years in a row, a train driver from Los Angeles lost his job and embarked on a two-year journey and the route brought him to Belgrade... And perhaps the most interesting story is the one about a Mexican whose grandfather gave him a book on the history of Yugoslavia. He wished to get to know the country that his grandfather told him about, so he came to Serbia. The atmosphere at the Big Hostel

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

BEING RECOGNISABLE And while the map of Belgrade’s hostels is constantly expanding, the owners must ensure they remain on that map, by finding a way to become recognisable and give their little place for overnight lodgings a unique charm. “At the moment when we opened the hostel we were the only floating hostel in Europe,” says Miodrag Zrnić, owner of Arkabarka, a small zen paradise on the beautiful blue Danube. “I used what Belgrade has and other cities do not – its two rivers, the park, the island,” says Zrnić, explaining that the combination of urban and nature is their main advantage. The Hedonist hostel also offers its “refuge from

the din”. Despite being in the midst of an urban hotspot, on Simina Street, hedonists find tranquillity in the garden. “It’s a place where our guests prefer to stay and where they easily get to know each other. We barbecue in the garden, where we organise parties, set up a projector on which we play concerts and major sporting events,” says Milovan Mitrović. The Sun hostel is located in the Vračar neighbourhood and so, lacking an exotic strictly downtown location, Nikola Vacić decided to fill his garden with exotic African details. “The details mostly arrived directly from Botswana and represent unique local pieces of art. The paintings were done by naïve artists, their art trend being called Tinga Tinga.” Pop Art is somewhere on the border between a hostel and a museum. Belgrade artists Mladen Lisavac and Danilo Nađ painted the hostel walls with icons of pop art culture and when guests first enter they see Kalemegdan painted in a pop art style. “ It is an artistic direction that we like and we thought that the younger generations would like it. And we were right,” explains Fatma Tina Al-jidah, owner of the hostel. One of the largest hostels, not only in Belgrade but the entire Balkans, is, as its name suggests, The Big Hostel. “We have eighteen rooms and one hundred beds. Besides accommodation, we offer space for organising seminars, an entertainment area, a large living room with multimedia facilities etc.” says Tanja Šimšić describing her hostel. DrAgAnA BArJAktArević

Little zen paradise - Arkabarka Hostel

ŠARM MALOG PRENOĆIŠTA Da je Beograd postao lider u turističkoj ponudi regije svedoče brojni veliki projekti u hotelijerstvu, organizaciji događaja, kongresnoj industriji... Svetlucave kamenčiće u moizaiku koji čini sliku grada kao turističke destinacije dodali su hosteli. U ovom trenutku ima ih više od osamdeset, što je vrtoglava brojka i fenomen koji zaslužije pažnju. Posetili smo nekoliko hostela i otkrili „male zen rajeve“, originalne umetničke koncepte i zanimljive utiske hostelskih gostiju našeg grada.

ečaci i devojčice moraju da odlaze u prirodu, to im je neophodno kao ravnoteža za sedenje u školskoj klupi, napisao je učitelj Rihard Širman u Kelnskim novinama 1903. godine. Širman je pokrenuo ideju putovanja učenika i na taj način postao rodonačelnik omladinskog hostelinga. Tri godine nakon objavljivanja članka, u zamku Altena kod Izerloa otvorio je prvi hostel u svetu. Posle toga hosteli niču svuda po Evropi. Godine 1920. u Sarajevu je osnovan Ferijalni savez Jugoslavije. Tokom Drugog svetskog rata prestaje sa radom, a nastavlja 1952. godine u Beogradu. U februaru ove godine Ferijalni i hostelski savez Srbije, jedino nacionalno udruženje hostela, postalo je punopravni član Međunarodne federacije omladinskih hostela Hostelling international. NOMADSKE DUŠE Na Vikipediji i dalje stoji podatak da u Beogradu ima desetak hostela. Taj broj je sada osam puta

veći. Niska cena nekretnina i zabluda o strancima debelih novčanika doveli su do velike konkurencije na tržištu. Putnici koji se odluče za hostelski smeštaj uglavnom su avanturisti koji su krenuli put osvajanja Evrope ili Balkana. Pa bili oni čak i ugledni profesori ili naučnici, opredelivši se za višemesečno, ponekad i višegodišnje putešestvije, unapred su se odrekli razbacivanja novca. „Hostel je vrsta smeštaja koji najčešće posećuju bekpekeri – ljudi koji putuju kuda žele i kada žele, nastojeći da količinu novca kojim raspolažu iskoriste tako da njihov put traje što duže. Oni ne dolaze poslom ili zbog odmora“ – kaže Nikola Vacić iz Ferijalnog i hostelskog saveza Srbije i vlasnik hostela Sun. Ne postoje starosne, profesionalne ili kulturne granice kojima su hostelski gosti omeđeni. Dolaze sa svih strana sveta vođeni istom iskrom radoznalosti. Ne drže se turističkih vodiča, jer oni i nisu klasični turisti. To su nomadske duše koje teže da sinhronizuju hod i dah sa gradom u koji su došli.

GOSTI KOJE JE DONELA OLUJA Priroda hostelskog posla je takva da svaki čas iskrsava neka zanimljivost. Za pet godina, koliko Arkabarka postoji, nakupilo ih se poprilično, a Miodrag Zrnić kao omiljenu izdvaja priču o bračnom paru iz Austrije koji je u drvenom čamcu plovio od Beča ka Crnom moru. „Na Dunavu ih je uhvatila oluja dok su prolazili pored splava, pa su nas pitali da li mogu da se privežu dok nevreme ne prođe. Kada s u saznali da smo hostel, oduševili su se i odmah odlučili da kod nas prespavaju. Ostali su nedelju dana!“ Opredeljuju se za hostele upravo zato što su to mesta na kojima od hostelijera mogu da dobiju putokaze koje traže. Žarko Gvero, generalni sekretar Ferijalnog i hostelskog saveza, opisuje hostele kao sjajna mesta za druženje i razmenjivanja iskustva i kaže da se „od hostelskog osoblja očekuju ne samo da budu

BelGuest JESEN | AUTUMN 2012

profesionalni, već i da budu druželjubivi“. I zaista, iščitavajući knjige utisaka iz raznih hostela, kao refren ponavljaju se pohvale. Ako putujete sami, budite sigurni da ćete ovde odmah steći prijatelje. (Star) Osoblje radi veoma naporno da biste uživali u boravku. Daće vam toliko čaja i kafe da će vas uhvatiti srčani udar. (Star) Vlasnici hostela su najslađi ljudi koje smo ikada upoznali. (Hedonist) POZITIVNO IZNENAĐENJE „Naši gosti mahom malo znaju o Beogradu, pa se veoma iznenade kada dođu. Pozitivno, naravno. Glavni utisak je da su naši ljudi ljubazni, a da grad obiluje zelenilom“ – prenosi iskustva svojih gostiju Milovan Mitrović, vlasnik hostela Hedonist. Prosek zadržavanja turista u Beogradu sasvim je mali, oko 2,2 dana. Međutim, počesto se događa da planirani boravak produže. Zavede ih Beograd KNJIGA KAO RAZLOG ZA HODOČAŠĆE „Hostelske anegdote su predivne. Tako naš posao dobija puni smisao“ – kaže Nikola Vacić iz hostela Sun. Priseća se raznih zanimljivih gostiju – Nemaca koji su kajakom došli u Beograd, Tunižana koji se već tri godine zaredom vraćaju u hostel, mašinovođe iz Los Anđelesa koji je ostao bez posla, pa je krenuo na dvogodišnje putešestvije i put ga naveo u Beograd ... A kao možda najzanimljiviju priču izdvaja onu o Meksikancu koji je od dede dobio knjigu o istoriji Jugoslavije. Poželeo je da upozna zemlju o kojoj mu je deda pričao i došao u Srbiju.

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

svojim šarmom, a Beograđani srdačnošću i lakoćom komuniciranja – na bilo kom jeziku! Oduševljava ih tvrđava koja i noću živi, jezero usred grada, boemska Skadarlija, šetališta pored reke i život na reci. „U Pop Artu je često bolji provod nego na splavovima, pa gosti ostaju sa nama celu noć“ – dodaje Fatma Tina Al-jidah na spisak omiljenih mesta svojih gostiju i sam hostel. Beograd se strancima toliko uvuče pod kožu, pa ne samo da nastavljaju da se vraćaju u njega, već neki od tih putnika odluče i da ostanu u Srbiji. „Moćna stvar sa hostelima je to što možeš da utičeš na ljudske sudbine, da promeniš nečiji životni tok. Jednog momka smo uputili gde da izađe i tamo je upoznao devojku kojom se kasnije oženio. Ima i mnogo onih koji se vraćaju u Beograd zato što smo u međuvremenu postali dobri prijatelji“ – priča Đorđe Milojević iz hostelu Star. PREPOZNATLJIVOST I dok se mapa beogradskih hostela neprestano dopisuje, vlasnici moraju da vode računa o održivosti na njoj, te da nađu način da postanu prepoznatljivi i svom malom prenoćištu daju jedinstveni šarm. „U trenutku kad smo otvorili hostel, bili smo jedini plutajući hostel u Evropi“ – reči su Miodraga Zrnića, vlasnika Arkabarke, malog zen raja na lepom plavom Dunavu. „Iskoristio sam ono što Beograd ima, a drugi gradovi ne – dve reke, park, ostrvo.“ Zrnić objašanjava da je spoj prirode urbanog njihova glavna prednost. I hostel Hedonist ima „sklonište od buke“. Iako

se nalaze usred urbanog kotla, u Siminoj ulici, hedonisti mir nalaze u bašti. „To je mesto gde naši gosti najviše vole da borave i gde lako upoznaju jedni druge. U bašt pravimo roštilj, organizujemo zabave, postavili smo projektor i puštamo koncerte i važne sportske događaje“ – priča Milovan Mitrović. Sun hostel nalazi se na Vračaru, pa pošto već nema egzotičnu lokaciju, Nikola Vacić je rešio da ga napuni egzotičnim afro-detaljima. „Detalji su mahom stigli direktno iz Bocvane i predstavljaju jedinstvene delove tamošnje umetnosti. Slike su radili umetnici koji se bave naivom, a pravac je Tinga Tinga.“ Pop art je na granici između hostela i muzeja. Beogradski umetnici Mladen Lisavac i Danilo Nađ zidove hostela presvukli su slikama ikona pop art kulutre, a ono što gosti prvo vide kada uđu je Kalemegdan oslikan u pop art maniru. „To je umetnički pravac koji se nama dopada, te smo mislili da će se cela priča svideti i mlađim generacijama. I bili smo u pravu“ – objašanjava Fatma Tina Al-jidah, vlasnica hostela. Jedan od najvećih hostela ne samo u Beogradu nego i na celom Balkanu, kako mu i samo ime kaže, jeste The Big Hostel. „Raspolažemo sa osamnaest soba i sto kreveta. Pored smeštaja, nudimo i prostor za održavanje seminara, prostor za zabavu, veliki dnevni boravak sa multimedijalnim sadržajem...“ – opisuje svoj hostel Tanja Šimšić. DrAgAnA BArJAktArević

E V E N T S

D O G A Đ A

J I

BELGRADE LATIN MARATHON

BEOGRADSKI LATINO MARATON

ROLLING IN THE RHYTHM OF THE RIVERS

TALASANJE U RITMU REKA

Salsa, Samba, Rumba, Conga... these were danced on the first day of September on the quayside of the Sava dock. The Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, the Dance Association of Serbia, Belgrade dance schools and the City Assembly prepared the third Latin marathon for their fellow citizens and guests of Belgrade. As many as 150 dancing couples performed and swinging together with them was also the audience, all in accordance with the slogan of the event – Let’s dance in the rhythm of Belgrade’s rivers.

Salsa, Samba, Rumba, Konga… plesala se prvog dana septembra na platou Savskog pristaništa. Turistička organizacija Beograda, Plesni savez Srbije, beogradske plesne škole i Skupština grada priredili su sugrađanima i gostima grada treći po redu Latino maraton. Nastupilo je čak 150 plesnih parova, a sa njima njihala se i publika i reka, sve u skladu sa sloganom manifestacije - Igrajmo u ritmu beogradskih reka.

he spectacle began with the first dusk, with harmonious movements of a Zumba dance instructor. He was succeeded on stage by instructors from a famous dance school who taught the good-humoured audience various Latin dance movements and invited them to continue to dance even after the festival. Ljiljana Alajbegović, director of development and marketing at the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, told us that the Latin Marathon, which has now become a well-established event, has multiple roles: “Belgrade is a destination that attracts a large number of guests and our rivers, with all the events organised along the river banks, make an attractive and distinctive tourism product. However, the organising of such a programme as this with the Open School of Dances represents an attempt to bring dance into our educational system.” Following the completion of the dance class ended, various carnival events followed – there was a special cake, fireworks provided a great spice to the atmosphere and the performances of the best dancers in shimmering costumes delighted the audience. Then followed an extraordinary concert by Jovan Maljoković and the Balkan Salsa Band. The event at one of Belgrade’s most beautiful sites came to an end “in the wee small hours” with a DJ Latino party.

pektakl je počeo s prvim sutonom skladnim pokretima instruktora zumba plesa. Na sceni su ga zamenili učitelji poznatih plesnih škola koji su raspoloženu publiku podučavali pokretima različitih latino plesova i pozivali ih da nastave da plešu i nakon festivala. Ljiljana Alajbegović, direktorka za razvoj i marketing TOB-a, rekla nam je da Latino maraton, kao sada već ustaljen događaj, ima višestruku ulogu: “Beograd je destinacija koja privlači veliki broj gostiju, pri čemu su naše reke, sa svim manifestacijama koje se organizuju na priobalju, atraktivan i prepoznatljiv turistički proizvod. Međutim, organizovanje jednog ovakvog programa sa Otvorenom školom plesova predstavlja i pokušaj da se ples uvede u naš obrazovni sistem.” Nakon završenog plesnog časa, nizala su se razna karnevalska dešavanja – bila je tu specijalna torta, vatromet je bio sjajan začin atmosferi, a nastupi najboljih plesača u svetlucavima kostimima oduševio je publiku. Usledio je koncert izvanrednog Jovana Maljokovića i Balkan Salsa Benda. Događaj na jednom od najlepših prostora Beograda zavšen je “u sitne sate” DJ Latino žurkom. BelGuest Fotografija: Đorđe Rusić, Turistička organizacija Beograda

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

I N T E R V I E W

V L A D I M I R

M A C U R A

ADDRESS: ZENITH 1

AUTUMN | JESEN 2012 BelGuest

Vladimir Macura is a man determined by liberty. The liberty to embody his passion, to share it with others, to back out and just say: I am not important, and yet to have us exposed to that original, authentic passion. So that in the end we feel and recognise it as our own experience.

book from my library, and he can sleep over if he wants to. It would be nice if he washed the coffee cups, but it’s not obligatory, if he brings his bottle of wine, he might leave it to someone else, but it’s not a must either... I wanted this house to be a meeting place, in a way. And all you have to take from here is the energy of this place that one should feel on one’s own. And then he can continue his trip, or return to where he had come from.” We’ll add: enriched by the audacity to believe in the dreams that do come true.

Reading the Museum “Macura” in just that way, the passenger pilgrims wrote down in the guest book: “Thank you for a fraction of the skies...” Or: “I arrived from Belgrade, from Zeleni Venac by bus 706 to Batajnica. From Batajnica to Novi Banovci by taxi, from there I came running up to the Museum. This is my contribution to conceptual art.”

One of the rare private museums in Serbia has a very unusual story, an atypical walking path, and in addition to all that, all visitors, or better to say, travellers who happened to pass by – quite easily and simply imprint the seal of their own experiences. An exchange of energies through the contact of that place and a man who finds himself there rounds up the basic idea of the owner and the founder. Or is it primarily a desire? - I desired the visitor who decided to visit the Museum “Macura” to come here, open the door, and find no one to welcome him, because there is no curator who will recount about the idea, the artists and art... To make coffee by himself, or help himself to the juice, or perhaps the wine from the refrigerator, because he’s just come from a trip. To take a look at the collection, to stay there as long as he wants. In the courtyard overlooking the Danube he can read a

Vladimir Macura has long sought – dreamed of this place. He found it by following the path similar to the one described above. Only the journey took longer. It took years. And it ended up on one February morning. - First, it was supposed to be in Istria, and we gave up, then in Prevlaka near Dubrovnik, then in Golubac... The idea was to have some historic building nearby, to complement the existing by the additional meander of this edifice, so we passed by Čortanovci, Slankamen, Sremski Karlovci... We were looking for real. Where it is not stolen, nor cursed. I was looking for a healthy foundation, the kind that modern art needed. In all this, the Danube was a priority. Everything had to happen near water. Water reflects everything and washes everything away. Tarkovsky did not film a single movie without water. I’d say it was in February, I remember bad weather, I set off from Batajnica on my bicycle. In the centre of Novi Banovci I asked how to get to the Danube, they showed me the direction. I had a bent road before myself that looked like an Austro-Hungarian coach had just gone that way. And then came that powerful

ince the Museum “Macura” officially opened on the 3rd of May 2007, there was a series of different experiences centered on this place among the colleagues journalists, artists, visitors, that, with all the compliments, delight and approval, may be reduced to the fact that Vladimir Macura has fulfilled his dream here. It also seems that this dream could have been just a concept, because all you can see there is inspired by the concept, from the architecture of the building to everything in it and around it.

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

encounter with the Danube. I recognised this place, I felt it and I think that the young people who come here have the same feeling. It is not easy to compile a biography of our interlocutor. It seems that the concrete data are not as important as energy that explains everything. If you recognise it. And you will recognise it in the code similar to the recognition of the great river. The one that runs through time, touching various banks and in its being keeps track of important traces of those banks. - In Knin, from where I come from, for Croats I was a little Serb. I remember that I was rooting for the Red Star, later I felt that I was perhaps closer to the Croats in mentality, today I live in Vienna, but I’m not a Viennese. I’m somewhere in between. I am determined by the fact that I realised how much all of our divisions are irrelevant. Where is my home? There where I feel good, where I am enjoying myself. And is Vladimir Macura a collector, a gallery owner or an artist? The avant-garde after Marcel Duchamp tells us that we are all artists. - I do not want to call myself an artist. This is the concept in which I recognised the development of an idea. Later, it was all interaction, between artists, my friends and me. And we were all, complementing each other, creating this dream. I come from the backward areas. From where there were not even pictures on the walls. I went to Ljubljana with Ljubiša Ristić to acquire the first knowledge of the avant-garde. I learned that one small paper was sometimes more important than the painting itself. My love grew with an unusual force, given the initial hunger where there was nothing. Eventually, I met people who developed my passion for collecting things. In all of this, my taste developed. And in that forming of the taste, but also of personality of Vladimir Macura, one name stands out. More than 80 years ago, Ljubomir Micić

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

began dreaming his dream of Zeniteum. About Zeniteum in Belgrade! That dream did not come true. The Museum “Macura” is at Zenit 1. And in the first room of the museum, visitors face Micić’s penetrating gaze from the photo on the wall. - Micić helped me so much, I was powerfully determined by him. Even now, when I hear his name I get goose bumps. Our biographies are the same to some extent, he too was rejected by the society, and the same dream connects us – the Zeniteum. His tragedy is that he did not succeed to make his dream come true. That is why this museum is for me, but also for Micić. I wanted to give him back what belongs to him. To him, Marko Ristić, Wittgenstein, Knifer... Macura’s collection is characterized by valuable works of avant-garde art, a scenic, intriguing and funny cross-section of, primarily, the core of the Central and Southern European art of the twentieth century. Belgrade surrealism, Dadaism, Zenithism... In any case – the avant-garde. Avantgarde was always doomed by clashes, conflicts, misunderstanding... So why was it nothing else but the avant-garde that Vladimir Macura decided to bestow on His people, as stated in his dedication on the Museum building, for insight, testimony and contemplation? - That could have probably been some other kind of art too. I was attracted by the fact that the avant-garde was engaged, because of the misunderstanding that I encountered myself. It is because of the reactions and feelings that I harboured as a response to life. Interestingly, the avant-garde art scene was marked by the groups, circles within which artists worked and developed their ideas, they lived their art, they sent each other “thoughts meant for certain months”, they sent homework and “survey questions” as it happened in Zagreb Gorgona, and then, in a similar way, in Dadaism or Belgrade Medijala. It seems that such art movements do not exist anymore.

- We always recognise the avant-garde some ten, twenty years later. There are rebellions today too, but we just don’t recognise them. I believe that they exist. We learn more about the Museum “Macura” by “word of mouth” than through some advertising media campaign. We asked why this is so? - We are a small experiment. One employee and myself. We try to adjust everything to make this unit have a life. The collection is made up of high avant-garde, it’s not a story for buses with tourists who along the way manage to see a little bit of art. To come to this museum, one needs to have education. The people with a certain sensibility find us and recognise us. There are no visible route directions for the museum “Macura”, and yet we have visits every day. This whole concept thus grows and flows like the Danube. When Robert Smithson, the author of the famous spiral Jetty in Salt Lake in Utah, was asked by journalists who he would expect at the presentation of his work, he said: “I will be there, my wife, a couple of friends ...” I just do not want this concept to exceed what was anticipated. I certainly would not want to be a victim of this, but I’d like to share the joy with the people who come here. And I especially want to offer something to young people. They are the ones who need such space the most. If the concept of the museum had another name, it could probably be called like Macura’s exhibition at the Museum of Applied Arts in Belgrade in 2002 – The art of the impossible. Because all that he made possible is completely amazing, almost impossible. A private museum, outside of the city centre, which has been surviving and developing for the past six years. The museum that emits great energy, and it is recognised, especially among the young people, and that’s the goal. And everyone in that centre understands everyone else, or should we rather say – feels it. And how does Macura feel in Novi Banovci after arriving from Vienna? Is there much difference? - It’s all the same, just a little different. Both here and there, there are enthusiasts, art lovers. There is more money there, and then, consequently, more willpower, more opportunities. Here we say to young people – go and do something, this is just one example of how a small amount of money can make the dreams come true. Amongst the Serbs, there is always an obvious expectation that someone will do something for them. Here people are always expecting some kind of money – and everything is at the standstill. We started the construction of the museum with 10 bricks, but we had a clear objective and a systematic plan. The first to move into the garden were apples, of old extinct varieties, they renewed life and are now bearing fruit. All of them are from Central and Eastern Europe, and so is my collection. Apples are not there by accident, for me they are a powerful, living statue. As the museum is also a cultural centre, we planned to organise one seminar about apples. No matter what and in what way has arrived at the Museum “Macura,” it is the result of a great passion.

bit less... And when the concentration of objects develops into a pyramid that first spreads out and then narrows towards the summit, you realise that at the summit there is a point where the initial passion for collecting supersedes one man’s abilities. That it’ superseded those private dimensions. Then you feel the need to share that with the others, with the similar ones... The setting remains the same – the warmth of the living room, the objects that are as close as possible to the viewer, the art that is there for the visitor to enjoy it. And ultimately, all this is a fairy tale. Or at least I see it that way. Somewhere towards the end, we wanted to ask Vladimir Macura that more or less dramatic question that stands somewhere at the beginning or at the end of each person’s self-realisation, namely the question: Who am I, really? We haven’t discovered him. He left us to feel the space in which we were, read a few sentences from a book on the table with a view of the Danube. To breathe in the river, the sky and the forms. To greet Micić and Branko Miljković. We washed the coffee cups, took two apples with us, as well as realisation instead of an answer – that Vladimir Macura is a man determined by liberty. The liberty to embody his passion, to share it with others, to back out and just say: I am not important, and yet to have us exposed to that original, authentic passion. But it is fact that, returning to Belgrade, we kept silent and talked about art more intensely than ever before.. DrAgAnA mArković Photographs: DArimir BAnDA

The chairs, the cabinets, the books moved onto its stage and the endless lines of various glasses, coffee cups, teaspoons, pottery of all colours and shapes moved onto the shelves. And all that in a perfect harmony of objects, people and places connected by only one oneiric vision. - We’ve always lived in some small spaces. My passion for collecting was growing all the time. I remember I brought home a lamp and that I had nowhere to put it, I said to myself: “This lamp will light up one day.” The collecting of things is guided by love, and you discover that you like this or that, a bit more or a

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

I N T E R V J U

- V L A D I M I R

M A C U R A

ADRESA: ZENIT BR.1 Vladimir Macura je čovek koga određuje sloboda. Sloboda da ovaploti svoju strast, da je podeli sa drugima, da se izmakne tek toliko da kaže – ja sam nebitan, a da nas ipak izloži toj prvobitnoj, izvornoj strasti. I da je mi na kraju osetimo i prepoznamo kao sopstveni doživljaj.

tkako je Muzej „Macura“ zvanično otvoren 3. maja 2007. godine, nizali su se različiti doživljaji ovog mesta među kolegama novinarima, umetnicima, posetiocima, koji se, uz sve komplimente, ushićenja i odobravanje, svode na to da je Vladimir Macura ovde ostvario svoj san. Čini se isto tako da je taj san mogao biti samo koncept, jer sve što se tu može videti odiše konceptom, od arhitekture zdanja, do svega u njemu i oko njega. Jedan od retkih privatnih muzeja u Srbiji ima sasvim neobičnu priču, atipičnu hodnu liniju, a u sve to, posetioci, ili bi bilo bolje reći putnici namernici – sasvim lako i jednostavno utiskuju pečat sopstvenog doživljaja. Razmena energije u dodiru tog mesta sa čovekom koji se u njemu nađe zaokružuje osnovnu ideju vlasnika i osnivača. Ili je to pre svega želja. - Želeo sam da posetilac koji se uputi u Muzej „Macura“ ovde dođe, otvori vrata, i niko ga ne sačeka, jer nema kustosa koji će mu prepričavati ideju, umetnike i umetnost... Da sam sebi skuva kafu, ili se posluži sokom, a može i vinom iz frižidera, jer je stigao s puta. Da pogleda kolekciju, da se zadrži koliko želi. U dvorištu sa pogledom na Dunav može da pročita knjigu iz moje biblioteke,

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

može i da prespava, ako želi. Bilo bi lepo da za so bom opere šolje, a ne mora, ako donese svoje vino, može da ga ostavi nekom sledećem, a ne mora... Da ova kuća na neki način bude mesto susreta. A sve što treba da ponese odavde upravo je ta energija ovog mesta koju sam treba da oseti. A onda može da nastavi put, ili se vrati tamo odakle je došao. Dodaćemo: obogaćen za smelost da veruje u snove koji se ostvaruju. Čitajući Muzej „Macura“ upravo na taj način putnici hodočasnici su u knjigu utisaka zabeležili: „Hvala za delić neba...“ Ili: „Došao sam iz Beograda, sa Zelenog venca autobusom 706 do Batajnice. Od Batajnice taksijem do Novih Banovaca, odatle trčao do Muzeja. Ovo je moj doprinos konceptualnoj umetnosti.“ Dugo je Vladimir Macura tražio – sanjao ovo mesto. Našao ga je putanjom nalik ovoj opričanoj. Samo je putovanje trajalo duže. Godinama. A završilo se jednog februarskog jutra. - Prvo je to trebalo da bude Istra, odustali smo, onda Prevlaka kod Dubrovnika, Golubac... Ideja je bila da tu negde bude i istorijski objekat, da postojeće dogradimo meandrom zdanja, prošli smo i Čortanovce, Slankamen, Sremske

Karlovce... Tražili smo istinsko. Tamo gde nije oteto, tamo gde nije prokleto. Tražio sam zdrav temelj, isti onakav koji je bio potreban moderni. U svemu tome Dunav je bio prioritet. Sve je moralo da se dogodi u blizini vode. Voda sve reflektuje i sve spira. Tarkovski nijedan film nije snimio bez vode. Rekao bih da je bio februar, pamtim neko ružno vreme, uputio sam se biciklom iz Batajnice. U centru Novih Banovaca pitao sam gde je ovde Dunav, pokazali su mi pravac. Preda mnom savio se put koji je izgledao kao da je austrougarska kočija upravo tuda prošla. A onda se dogodio taj moćni susret sa Dunavom. Prepoznao sam ovo mesto, osetio ga i mislim da to isto osećaju mladi ljudi koji ovde dolaze. Nije lako sastaviti biografiju našeg sagovornika. I tu kao da konkretni podaci i nisu toliko važni koliko njegova energija koja sve objašnjava. Ako je prepoznate. A prepoznaćete je kodom sličnim prepoznavanju velike reke. One koja protiče kroz vreme, dodiruje različite obale i u svom biću čuva zapis bitnih tragova tih obala. - U Kninu, odakle sam, za Hrvate sam bio mali Srbin. Sećam se da sam navijao za Zvezdu, kasnije sam osetio da su mi Hrvati možda bliži po mentalitetu, danas živim u Beču, a nisam Bečlija. Ja sam nešto između. Određuje me to što sam shvatio koliko su sve te naše podele nebitne. Gde mi je kuća? Tamo gde se dobro osećam, gde mi je lepo. A da li je Vladimir Macura kolekcionar, galerista ili umetnik? Avangarda posle Marsela Dišana govori da smo svi mi umetnici. - Ne želim umetnikom da se nazivam. Ovo jeste koncept u kome sam prepoznao razvoj jedne ideje. Kasnije je sve bilo interakcija, između umetnika, mojih prijatelja i mene. I svi smo, nadopunjujući jedni druge, gradili ovaj san. Potičem iz pasivnih krajeva. Tamo odakle sam ni slike nije bilo na zidu. Otišao sam u Ljubljanu i sa Ljubišom Ristićem sticao prva saznanja o avangardi. Učio sam i da je jedan mali papir ponekad značajniji od same slike. Neobičnom silinom rasla je moja ljubav, imajući u vidu početnu glad u kojoj ničega nije bilo. S vremenom sam upoznavao ljude koji su razvijali moju sakupljačku strast. U svemu tome formirao se i moj ukus. A u tom formiranju ukusa, ali i ličnosti Vladimira Macure jedno ime se izdvaja. Pre više od 80 godina Ljubomir Micić je počeo da sanja o Zeniteumu. O Zeniteumu u Beogradu! I taj san nije ostvario. Muzej „Macura“ je na adresi Zenit 1. A u prvoj prostoriji muzeja sa posetiocima opšti prodoran Micićev pogled oslobođen sa fotografije na zidu. - Micić mi je neobično pomogao, snažno me odredio. I danas kada čujem njegovo ime koža mi se naježi. Donekle nam se podudaraju biografije, i on je bio odbačen od društva, povezuje nas i isti san – Zeniteum. Njegova tragedija je što nije uspeo da ostvari svoj san. Zato je ovo muzej za mene, ali i za Micića. Želeo sam da mu vratim nešto što mu pripada. Njemu, Marku Ristiću, Vitgenštajnu, Kniferu... Macurinu kolekciju određuju vredna dela avangardne umetnosti, slikovit, intrigantan i duhovit presek, mahom jezgra, srednjoevropske i južnoevropske umetnosti 20. veka. Beogradski nadrealizam, dadaizam, zenitizam… U svakom slučaju – avangarda. Avangarda je opet uvek bila osuđena na trvenja, sukobe, nerazumevanje… Zašto se onda Vladimir Macura odlučio da Svome narodu, kako stoji posveta na Muzeju, pokloni na uvid svedočanstvo i razmišljanje – baš avangardu? - To je verovatno mogla da bude i neka druga vrsta umetnosti. Privuklo me to angažovano kod avangarde, upravo zbog nerazumevanja na koje sam i sam nailazio. Upravo zbog reakcije i osećaja koje sam nosio u sebi kao odgovor na život.

Zanimljivo je to što su avangardnu umetničku scenu obeležile grupe, kružoci unutar kojih su umetnici razvijali svoje ideje, živeli svoju umetnost, upućivali jedni drugima „misli za pojedine mesece“, slali domaće zadaće i „anketna pitanja“ kao što se to dešavalo u zagrebačkoj Gorgoni, a onda slično unutar dadaizma ili u beogradskoj Medijali. Čini se da takvih umetničkih pokreta više nema. - Avangardu uvek prepoznajemo deset, dvadeset godina kasnije. Postoje buntovi i danas, samo ih ne prepoznajemo. Verujem da postoje. O Muzeju „Macura“ više saznajemo principom „od usta do usta“ nego nekom reklamnom medijskom kampanjom. Pitali smo i zašto je to tako? - Mi smo mali eksperiment. Jedan zaposleni i ja. Nastojimo da uskladimo sve kako bi ova celina imala život. Kolekciju čini visoka moderna, nije to priča za autobuse turista koji bi nekako usput da vide i malo umetnosti. Za dolazak u ovaj muzej potrebno je obrazovanje. Nas pronalaze i prepoznaju ljudi određenog senzibiliteta. Za put u Muzej „Macura“ nema vidljivih putokaza, a posete su svakodnevne. Čitav ovaj koncept na taj način raste i teče kao Dunav. Kada su Roberta Smitsona, autora čuvene spirale Jetty na slanom jezeru u

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

Utahu, novinari pitali koga očekuje na predstavljanju toga rada, odgovorio je: doći ću ja, moja žena, par prijatelja... Ne želim jedino da ovaj koncept prevaziđe to što je predviđeno. Nikako ne bih želeo da budem žrtva svega ovoga, već da delim radost s ljudima koji ovde dođu. A sve ovo posebno želim da ponudim mladim ljudima. Njima je najpotrebniji ovakav prostor. Kada bi koncept muzeja imao i neko drugo ime, verovatno bi ga mogli osloviti kao i Macurinu izložbu u Muzeju Primenjene umetnosti u Beogradu iz 2002. godine – UMETNOST NEMOGUĆEG. Jer potpuno je neverovatno, skoro nemoguće sve ovo što je on učinio mogućim. Privatni muzej, izvan gradskih centara, koji, evo, već šest godina opstaje i razvija se. Koji odašilje sjajnu energiju, a ona biva prepoznata, posebno među mladim ljudima, što i jeste cilj. I svi se u tom središtu savršeno razumeju, ili bi trebalo reći – osećaju. A kako se Macura oseća kada u Nove Banovce stigne iz Beča? Ima li tu neke velike razlike? - Sve je to isto, samo malo drugačije. I tamo i ovde postoje entuzijasti, ljubitelji umetnosti. Tamo je više novca, a onda i volje, mogućnosti. Ovde govorimo mladim ljudima – krenite, ovo je samo jedan od primera kako se malim sredstvima mogu ostvariti snovi. Kod Srba je primetno očekivanje da će uvek neko nešto za njih da uradi. Ovde se stalno očekuje neki novac – a sve stoji. Gradnju muzeja počeli smo sa 10 cigala, ali smo imali jasan cilj i sistematski plan. Najpre su se u vrt uselile jabuke, stare izumrle sorte koje su obnovile život i sada već daju plodove. Sve su iz srednje i istočne Evrope, kao i moja kolekcija. Jabuke nisu slučajno tu, one su za mene moćna, živa skulptura. Kako muzej radi i kao kulturni centar, predvideli smo i jedan seminar o jabukama. Šta god i kako god je u stiglo u Muzej „Macura“ rezultat je ogromne strasti. Na njegovu pozornicu uselile su se stolice, vitrine, knjige, a u police besk-

autuMn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

rajni redovi raznolikih čaša, šoljica za kafu, kašičica, keramike svih boja i oblika. I sve to u savršenu harmoniju predmeta, ljudi i prostora povezuje samo jedno snoviđenje. - Uvek smo živeli u nekim malim prostorima. Moja strast ka sakupljanju je neprestano rasla. Sećam se da sam doneo kući neku lampu i kako nisam imao gde više da je stavim, rekao sam sebi – ova lampa će jednog dana svetleti. Sakupljanje rukovodi ljubav, a ti otkriješ da ljubiš ovo i ono i više i manj... A kada ta koncentracija predmeta preraste u piramidu koja se najpre širi, a onda sužava ka vrhu, shvatiš da je na tom istom vrhu tačka u kojoj je početna sakupljačka strast prerasla mogućnosti jednog čoveka. Da je prerasla te privatne razmere. Onda osetiš potrebu da sve to podeliš sa drugima, sličnima... Postavka ostaje ista – toplina dnevne sobe, predmeti koji su što bliže posmatraču, umetnost koja je namenjena posetiocu da u njoj uživa. A negde na kraju – sve je ovo bajka. Bar je ja vidim tako. Negde na kraju poželeli smo da pitamo Vladimira Macuru i ono manje ili više dramatično pitanje koje negde stoji na početku ili kraju svake samospoznaje, a glasi: Ko sam ja, zapravo? Nismo ga pronašli. Ostavio nas je da osetimo prostor u kome smo, pročitamo nekoliko rečenica iz knjige na stolu s pogledom na Dunav. Da udahnemo reku, nebo i oblike. Da pozdravimo Micića i Branka Miljkovića. Šoljice smo oprali, dve jabuke poneli sa sobom, i spoznaju, umesto odgovora – da je Vladimir Macura čovek koga određuje sloboda. Sloboda da ovaploti svoju strast, da je podeli sa drugima, da se izmakne tek toliko da kaže – ja sam nebitan, a da nas ipak izloži toj prvobitnoj, izvornoj strasti. Vraćajući se u Beograd, činjenica je, nikada više i intenzivnije nismo ćutali i razgovarali o umetnosti. Dragana Marković Fotografije: DariMir BanDa

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PASTELS BY LJUBICA CUCA SOKIĆ

PASTELI LJUBICE CUCE SOKIĆ

1st August – 7th October, Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences (SANU) Gallery

1. avgust – 7. oktobar, Galerija SANU

THE ARTIST’S PERSONAL TREASURE

LIČNO BLAGO UMETNICE

asteli su bili omiljena tehnika ugledne srpske slikarke i pedagoga, akademika Ljubice Cuce Sokić (1914-2009). Stoga je izložba u Galeriji Srpske akademije nauka i umetnosti posvećena upravo pastelima – ličnom blagu umetnice. Izloženo je 98 radova, među kojima je i 10 koji do sada nisu izlagani. Najstariji pastel je „Autoportret“ iz 1935. godine, a najmlađi „Pejzaž iz Francuske“ iz 1973. godine. Info: www.sanu.ac.rs

astels were the favourite technique of the prominent Serbian painter and educator, academician Ljubica Cuca Sokić (1914-2009). Therefore, the exhibition at the Gallery of the Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences (SANU) is dedicated to pastels – the artist’s personal treasury. On display are 98 works, including ten that have not been displayed so far. The oldest pastel is the “Self Portrait” from 1935, and the most recent “Landscape of France” dating from 1973. Info: www.sanu.ac.rs

METAMORPHOSIS OF BELGRADE

3rd September – 3rd October, Open space (plateau) near the Victor

METAMORFOZE BEOGRADA

3. septembar – 3. oktobar, Plato kod Pobednika

MAPPING THE DEVELOPMENT MAPA ODRASTANJA OF BELGRADE BEOGRADA

s part of Dunavfest 2012, in the open area in front of the Victor monument there is an exhibition “Metamorphoses of Belgrade – from oriental sheher to an established European Baroque town.” The exhibition consists of 27 largeformat photographs which contain maps and plans of Belgrade from several European archives and libraries. Info: www.beogradskatvrdjava.co.rs

okviru Dunavfesta 2012. na platou ispred spomenika Pobednik postavljena je izložba „Metamorfoze Beograda – od orijentalnog šehera ka utvrđenom evropskom baroknom gradu“. Izložbu čini 27 fotografija velikog formata na kojima se nalaze mape i planovi Beograda iz nekoliko evropskih arhiva i biblioteka. Info: www.beogradskatvrdjava.co.rs

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

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AUTUMN EXHIBITION

E X H I B I T I O N S JESENJA IZLOŽBA

10th - 30th September, Pavilion “Cvijeta Zuzorić”

10-30. septembar, Paviljon „Cvijeta Zuzorić“

SCULPTURE ON THE MOVE

SKULPTURA U POKRETU

he “Autumn Exhibition” is the oldest and most prestigious exhibition of the Association of Fine Artists of Serbia. This year’s exhibition featured 109 works by 77 authors, and the jury singled out Miloš Šobajić as the best author for the sculpture “Little Beach” for which he received the prestigious Autumn Exhibition Award. The paintings and sculptures of Miloš Šobajić are composed of movements from which emerge accumulated energy and expressive power – the jury explains their decision. Info: www.ulus-art.org

BELGRADE BY ARCHITECTS – RATOMIR BOGOJEVIĆ

12th September – 14th October, The Art Gallery of the Belgrade Cultural Centre

THE FORGOTTEN BUILDER

he Press House, on the corner of Knez Mihailova Street and the Republic Square, the building where Belgrade Cultural Centre has been situated since 1961 and the Odeon building, on the corner of Kraljice Natalije and Kneza Miloša Streets are two capital buildings by architect Ratomir Bogojević, our somewhat forgotten builder. In addition to the original architectural plans and photographs of many buildings in various stages, the exhibition also presents personal items from the architectural office of Ratomir Bogojević. Info: www.kcb.org.rs

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

esenja izložba“ najstarija je i najuglednija izložba članova Udruženja likovnih umetnika Srbije. Na ovogodišnjoj postavci predstavljeno je 109 radova 77 autora, a žiri je kao najboljeg izdvojio Miloša Šobajića, koji je za skulpturu „Mala plaža“ dobio prestižnu Nagradu Jesenje izložbe. Slike i skulpture Miloša Šobajića sazdane su od kretanja iz koga izbija akumulirana energija i ekspresivna snaga – obrazlaže žiri svoju odluku. Info: www.ulus-art.org

BEOGRAD ARHITEKTE RATOMIRA BOGOJEVIĆA

12. septembar – 14. oktobar, Likovna galerija Kulturnog centra Beograda

ZABORAVLJENI GRADITELJ

om štampe na uglu ulice Kneza Mihaila i Trga republike – zgrada u kojoj je od 1961. Kulturni centar Beograda i Odeon na uglu ulica Kraljice Natalije i Kneza Miloša, dva su kapitalna objekta Ratomira Bogojevića, našeg pomalo zaboravljenog graditelja. Na izložbi posvećenoj umetniku, pored originalnih arhitektonskih planova i mnoštva fotografija građevina u različitim fazama, predstavljeni su i lični predmeti iz arhitektonskog biroa Ratomira Bogojevića. Info: www.kcb.org.rs

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OUR RICH HERITAGE

BLAGO NAMA

September – October, weekends 10.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m., Old Court

septembar – oktobar, vikendom 10-17h, Stari dvor

GODS AND HEROES

BOGOVI I HEROJI

he permanent exhibition of the National Museum has not been open to the public for nine years now. Nevertheless, the museum is trying to meet the audience’s interests, so this spring it launched a project called “Our Rich Heritage,” – four exhibitions which represent different periods of our history. Currently underway is the third exhibition “Gods and Heroes” which includes displays such as the bovine zoomorphic figurine, Barrow from Dupljaje, a replica of Athena Parthenos, bronze figure of Jupiter, Venus, Victoria, Serapis and the Good Shepherd, and according to the audience’s choice – Bukranion – a rare part of the Vinča culture. Info: www.narodnimuzej.rs

COMRADE PRESIDENT’S PAINTING COLLECTION

talna postavka Narodnog muzeja nije dostupna javnosti već devet godina. Muzej se ipak trudi da zadovolji zainteresovano oko publike, te je ovog proleća pokrenuo projekat „Blago nama“ – četiri izložbe, koje predstavljaju različite periode naše istorije. U toku je treća po redu „Bogovi i heroji“ u okviru koje su izložene zoomorfne figurine govečeta, Votivna kolica iz Dupljaje, kopija Atene Partenos, bronzane figure Jupitera, Venere, Viktorije, Serapisa i Dobrog pastira, a po izboru publike i Bukranion – redak deo vinčanske kulture. Info: www.narodnimuzej.rs

ZBIRKA SLIKA DRUGA PREDSEDNIKA

18th September – 4th November, 10.00 a.m. – 4.00 p.m., Yugoslav History Museum

18. septembar – 4. novembar, 10-16h, Muzej istorije Jugoslavije

TITO’S LEGACY

TITOVO NASLEĐE

he Yugoslav History Museum holds many fine arts works, which among other things, represented part of the interior of the residence of the President of Yugoslavia – comrade Tito. The exhibition “Comrade President’s Collection of Paintings” is a collection of artwork by Tito’s taste. The main objective of the exhibition is, on the one hand, to place the unique collection of the ruler again into the context of a representative function, which it once had, and on the other hand, to present the personal taste of Josip Broz through the paintings that were part of his private environment. Info: www.mij.rs

uzej istorije Jugoslavije baštini likovnu građu koja je između ostalog bila deo enterijera rezidencije predsednika SFRJ – druga Tita. Izložba „Zbirka slika druga predsednika“ predstavlja umetnička dela po Titovom ukusu. Osnovni cilj izložbe je da, sa jedne strane, jedinstvenu vladarsku zbirku ponovo stavi u kontekst reprezentativne funkcije, koju je nekada posedovala, i da sa druge strane, osvetli i lični ukus Josipa Broza kroz slike koje su bile sastavni deo njegovog privatnog ambijenta. Info: www.mij.rs

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

Winter | Zima 2011/12 BelGuest

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2011/12

L I T E R A R Y B

G U I D E K

T H R O U G H M

B E L G R A D E K

Memorial room of Branko Miljković

PRINCE OF POETRY Serbian literature has lost several great poets too early. Fragile, sensitive, not prepared to face the world around them, they departed, brought down by some disease or, tormented by an unbearable pain, forced to take their own life. One of them is Branko Miljković, and his poetry, even half a century later, emanates the same energy.

he following is written about him in a school diary of the Niš grammar school Stevan Sremac: “Intelligent, diligent, thoughtful, a little bit presumptuous about his abilities. He has a particular gift for literature, although he is also interested in natural sciences.” From an early age he was surrounded by great love and care from his parents. A friend from his childhood remembered that at the time when there was no paper or notebooks, his parents brought the whole carriage of sand for Branko to be able to write and erase. Later they set aside one salary each month to buy him books. Love for poetry and his first verses remained recorded in letters and first songs dedicated to a blonde student of the Niš Commercial Academy Ljiljana Ilić. The fifteen-year-old poet, who wrote under the pen name Damerti, wrote:

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

With friends, late 1959

To drink the nectar from thy lips, Enjoying in the view of the looming light, And in the kindness – see the sky’s kindness, And see Venus in everything, thy lover be means. Twelve years later, and just two weeks before moving on to eternity, he wrote his last verses inhe “Poem for my 27th Birthday”. I no longer need words, I need time; ‘Tis time to let the sun tell the hour; ‘Tis time to let flower speak, lips sealed, There can be no singing from a life so sour. He managed, during such a short time between the former and the latter verses, to become one of the most prominent Serbian poets who was called the prince of poetry with a reason. On the occasion of the twentieth anniversary of his unfortunate death, the poet’s family donated all of his belongings to the National Museum in Niš. His hometown honored the debt to the city’s greatest poet with a bust at Sinđelić Square and by giving his name to one street and one school in town. RUSSIAN ROULETTE IN BELGRADE Branko believed that only in Belgrade his poetry would be received in the right way. He enrolled at the Faculty of Philosophy, to study not literature but philosophy. The parents showed the greatest affection when they sold their beautiful house with a big backyard in Niš to buy a modest, ground-floor house in the Belgrade neighbourhood of Dušanovac. The literary magazines in the capital refused to publish his poems for quite a long time. Branko was appalled over the fact that some respectable editors stole the entire stanzas from unknown authors. He was also quite disappointed because one of the editors of the literary journals to which he brought his poetry and who was a famous poet himself, gave him a response regarding his poems that ‘’they do not meet the criteria’’. Later on, he would find his words, his phrases, in their poems. He could do nothing else but be persistent. He did not stop working and writing, believing that they would one day have to publish his poetry. But because of that, he often fell into depression and he started drinking. The story of Branko’s suicide attempt dates from that time. One night, with music and a lot of alcohol consumed in the ‘’Prešerenova klet’’ restaurant, Branko suddenly fell silent and went to the toilet. After an unusually long absence, they found him unconscious on the floor, with a belt around her neck. One of those who was hanging out with Branko at the time, Žika Lazić, spoke about the mindless game in a bar, a kind of ‘’Russian roulette’’, in which the name of the one who should commit a suicide would be pulled out from a hat. Branko pulled out his name from the hat, but no one could even suspect that he would take this game seriously. FIRE AND NOTHING After all the rejections, one other poet, Oskar Davičo brought Branko Miljković back to life. As the editor of the newspapers ‘’Delo’’, from dozens of poems that

Portrait from 1958 Branko brought to him to take a look at them, Davičo selected a cycle of fifteen poems for publication and told the young poet that he was talented and that he would recommend him to other papers and that the doors of ‘’Delo’’ would always be open for him. For Belgrade cultural public Branko became a real discovery in 1955. He himself believed that that year represented a turning point for him. He confirmed that by the publication of his poems and translations in prestigious literary magazines. Two years later, he published a collection of poems ‘’I wake her in vain’’. The song “I wake her in vain”, full of love, and hopelessness, was considered by Branko to be his best piece. He became a member of the Association of Writers of Serbia a year later. The year of his full recognition was 1960, when he published two more collections and became the youngest ever winner of the October Award of the City of Belgrade for literature for his collection ‘’Fire and Nothing’’. He travelled to Paris and Rome. And at the end he went to Zagreb, where he resided and worked in the literary editorial office of Radio Zagreb.

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

L I T E R A R Y

G U I D E

T H R O U G H

B E L G R A D E

October Charter Award, 1960

SUFFERING TRANSFORMED INTO VERSES Wherever he would go, alcohol followed him. In it, the poet sought oblivion, comfort and cure for the suffering that came from the lack of understanding and acceptance. At the very beginning of 1960, he wrote to his friend from Zagreb Zlatko Tomičić, the same one to whom he dedicated the song ‘’Epitaph’’: “If you want to know how I am, I’ll tell you: I feel like hell. I was thinking about how unhappy you are in Zagreb, and I in Belgrade. We are deluding ourselves, if we change the place. The evil is not in us. But who knows (that’s the only consolation) maybe it is the evil, the dissatisfaction, discomfort and suffering of existence, what makes us write. So it seems that the only hope for salvation is not to hope for salvation; the only happiness is to know how to handle your unhappiness, or even enjoy in it as an artist. We should make our feelings our objects. That’s cruel, but it is necessary for the people like you and me. I may suffer, I may die, but I’ll laud my suffering and my dying the way only an artist can.” That February was fatal for him. As an expression of depression, seven days before his death his letter in which he renounced his poetry was published in the magazine ‘’Duga’’. He tried to withdraw it, but it was too late. I WAS KILLED BY TOO STRONG A WORD He died on the night of the 11th February in a dangerous area on the outskirts of Zagreb, near the café ‘’Lijepa mlinarica’’ that was open throughout the night where drunks and demimonde gathered. On the day of the poet’s funeral, on the 14th of February 1961, the Belgrade newspaper ‘’Politika’’ published a short

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

report by a correspondent from Zagreb about the suicide of Branko Miljković. His parents and his brother, as well as some of his friends Belgrade, never believed the story of his suicide. Everything spoke in favour of the fact that he did not want to die. Suicide or murder, and who would want him dead, will always remain unanswered. The gravestone carries his famous dictum from the poem ‘’Epitaph’’, “I was killed by too strong a word”. Looking back from this distance at Branko Miljković’s life, it is not surprising that when he was asked by a journalist what had driven him to poetry he replied: ‘’Early sense of powerlessness before the world drove me into poetry. A man looking at the world has before himself two alternatives: either to feel his own insignificance, or to admire. Admiration equates us with the object of our admiration. I began writing poetry out of fear...’’ At a highschool excursion in Kalemegdan Park, Branko, finding himself among so many monuments to famous people, asked who proposed and who made the final decision which monuments were going to be erected. Surely, in that moment he wished for his own momument to decorate this park one day. He did erect a monument of a kind through his poetry, just like Alexander Sergeyevich Pushkin, whose verses ‘’I have erected a monument to myself, not built by hands’’ he admired. JOVO AnĐIĆ The author is grateful to the National Museum of Niš, and especially the curator Jovan Mladenović for the photos and documents released for publication

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K R O Z I

B E O G R A D K

PRINC POEZIJE Srpska književnost prerano je izgubila nekoliko velikih pesnika. Krhki, osetljivi, nespremni da se suoče sa svetom oko sebe, odlazili su pokošeni bolešću ili nepodnošljivim bolom, naterani da sebi oduzmu život. Jedan od njih je i Branko Miljković, a njegova poezija i pola veka posle njegove smrti zrači istom energijom.

školskom dnevniku niške gimnazije „Stevan Sremac“o njemu je napisano: „Inteligentan, vredan, pažljiv, pomalo uobražen u svoje sposobnosti. Ima naročitog smisla za književnost, mada ga interesuju i prirodne nauke.“ Odmalena bio je okružen velikom ljubavlju i pažnjom svojih roditelja. Drug iz detinjstva sećao se da su onda kada nije bilo papira i svezaka roditelji nabavili čitava kola peska da bi Branko mogao da piše i briše. Kasnije su po jednu platu mesečno izdvajali za kupovinu knjiga. Ljubav prema poeziji i prvi stihovi ostali su zabeleženi u pismima i prvim pesmama upućenim plavokosoj učenici niške Trgovačke akademije Ljiljani Ilić. Petnaestogodišnji pesnik, koji se potpisivao kao Damerti, pisao je: Sa usta tvoja nektar piti, u pogledu uživajuć’ svetlosti vreba, A u dobroti-dobrotu neba I u svem Veneru videti, znači tvoj ljubavnik biti. Dvanaest godina kasnije, dve nedelje pre nego što se preselio u večnost, napisao je poslednje stihove u „Pesmi za moj 27. rođendan“. Više mi nisu potrebne reči, treba mi vreme; Vreme je da sunce kaže koliko je sati; Vreme je da cvet progovori, a usta zaneme; Ko loše živi zar može jasno zapevati! Uspeo je da za to kratko vreme, između prvih i poslednjih stihova, postane jedan od naših najistaknutijih pesnika, koga su sa razlogom nazivali princ poezije.

Portrait from 1960

Branko Miljković as a boy, 1940 Povodom dvadesetogodišnjice nesrećne smrti pesnikova porodica poklonila je celokupnu zaostavštinu Narodnom muzeju u Nišu. Rodni grad se odužio svom najvećem pesniku bistom postavljenom na Sinđelićevom trgu i davanjem njegovog imena jednoj ulici i školi. RUSKI RULET U BEOGRADU Branko je verovao da će tek u Beogradu njegova poezija biti primljena na pravi način. Upisao se na Filozofski fakultet, ali ne na književnost već na filozofiju. Vrhunac svoje ljubavi njegovi roditelji su ispoljili kada su svoju lepu kuću sa velikim dvorištem u Nišu prodali da bi kupili skromnu, prizemnu kuću u Beogradu na Dušanovcu. Prestonički književni listovi dugo su odbijali da štampaju njegove pesme. Zgražavao se nad pojavom krađe čitavih strofa od neafirmisanih autora, što su činili ugledni urednici. I sam je bio razočaran jer je među urednicima časopisa u koje je nosio svoje pesme bio i jedan veliki pesnik, od kojeg je dobio odgovor da pesme „ne ispunjavaju kriterijum“. Kasnije bi svoje reči, svoje sintagme nalazio u njegovim pesmama. Nije mu ostalo ništa drugo nego da bude uporan. Nije prestajao da radi i piše pesme, verujući kako će jednog dana morati da ih objave. Ali je zbog toga padao u depresije i pio. Iz tog vremena potiče i priča

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

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Pesmu „Uzalud je budim“, punu ljubavi, ali i beznadežnosti, Branko je smatrao za svoje najbolje delo. Član Udruženja književnika Srbije postao je već naredne godine. Godina pune afirmacije je 1960, kada je, posle objavljene još dve zbirke, bio i najmlađi dobitnik Oktobarske nagrade grada Beograda za zbirku „Vatra i ništa“. Putuje u Pariz i Rim. A krajem godine odlazi u Zagreb, gde se nastanjuje i radi u Literarnoj redakciji Radio Zagreba. PATNJA PRETOČENA U STIH Gde god da je krenuo pratio ga je i alkohol. U njemu je pesnik tražio zaborav, utehu i lek od patnji koje su dolazile od nerazumevanja i neprihvatanja. Svom zagrebačkom prijatelju Zlatku Tomičiću, istom onom kojem je posvetio pesmu „Epitaf“, pisao je počekom 1960: „Ako te zanima kako sam, reći ću ti: osećam se kao u paklu. Razmišljao sam o tome kako si ti nesrećan u Zagrebu, a ja u Beogradu. Mi sebe obmanjujemo, ako promenimo mesto. Zlo nije u nama. Ali, ko zna (to je jedina uteha) nije li to zlo, to nezadovoljstvo, nemir i patnja postojanja, ono što nas tera da pišemo. Dakle, izgleda da je jedini spas ne nadati se spasu; jedina sreća umeti podnositi svoju nesreću ili čak uživati u njoj kao umetnik. Treba sebe i svoja osećanja učiniti svojim predmetima. To je surovo, ali neophodno za ovakve ljude kao što smo ja i ti. Neka patim, neka crknem, ali ću sa zadovoljstvom koje samo umetnik zna, opevati svoju patnju i crkavanje.“ Februar će za njega biti koban. Kao izraz depresije najpre je sedam dana pre smrti u listu „Duga“ objavljeno pismo u kojem se odrekao svoje poezije. Pokušao je da ga povuče, ali bilo je kasno.

o Brankovom pokušaju samoubistva. Jedne je noći, uz muziku i dosta popijenog pića u „Prešernovoj kleti“ Branko najednom zaćutao i otišao u toalet. Nakon neobično dugog odsustvovanja pronašli su ga bez svesti na podu, sa kaišem oko vrata. Žika Lazić, jedan od onih s kojima se Branko u to vreme družio, govorio je o suludoj igri u kafani, jednoj vrsti „ruskog ruleta“, u kojoj bi se iz šešira izvlačilo ime onoga koja bi trebalo da se ubije. Branko je izvukao svoje ime, ali niko nije mogao ni slutiti da će on tako ozbiljno shvatiti tu igru. VATRA I NIŠTA Posle svih odbijanja, Branka Miljkovića je u život vratio jedan drugi pesnik – Oskar Davičo. Kao urednik lista „Delo“ iz mnoštva pesama koje mu je doneo da ih pogleda Davičo je za objavljivanje odabrao ciklus od petnaest pesama i mladom pesniku rekao da je talentovan, da će ga preporučiti drugim listovima i da su mu vrata „Dela“ uvek otvorena. Za beogradsku kulturnu javnost Branko je te 1955. godine postao pravo otkriće. I sam je smatrao da je ta godina za njega predstavljala prekretnicu, potvrdilo je to objavljivanje njegovih pesama i prevoda u uglednim književnim listovima. Dve godine kasnije biće mu objavljena zbirka pesama „Uzalud je budim“.

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UBI ME PREJAKA REČ Stradao je u noći između 11. i 12. februara, u opasnom kraju na periferiji Zagreba, u blizini kafane „Lijepa mlinarica“, otvorenoj tokom čitave noći, u kojoj su se okupljali pijanci i polusvet. Na dan pesnikove sahrane, 14. februara 1961. godine, u „Politici“ je osvanula kratka vest zagrebačkog dopisnika o samoubistvu Branka Miljkovića. U njegovo samoubistvo nikada nisu poverovali njegovi roditelji i brat, ni neki njegovi beogradski prijatelji. Sve je govorilo u prilog tome da on nije želeo da umre. Samoubistvo ili ubistvo, i ko bi sve želeo njegovu smrt, ostaće zauvek neodgonetnuto. Na nadgrobnoj ploči spomenika uklesan je njegov čuveni stih „Ubi me prejaka reč“ iz pesme „Epitaf“. Kada se sa ove distance pogleda život Branka Miljkovića, ne čudi što je na pitanje jednog novinara šta ga je okrenulo poeziji, odgovorio: „Rano osećanje nemoći pred svetom nagnalo me je u poeziju. Čovek zagledan u svet ima pred sobom dve alternative: ili da oseti svoju ništavnost ili da se divi. Divljenje nas izjednačuje sa onim čemu se divimo. Poeziju sam počeo da pišem iz straha...“ Na gimnazijskoj ekskurziji u Kalemegdanskom parku među mnogobrojnim spomenicima Branko se raspitivao ko predlaže i ko odlučuje o njihovom podizanju. Sigurno je tada poželeo da se jednog dana u tom parku nađe i njegov spomenik. Svojevrstan spomenik sebi već je podigao svojom poezijom, baš kao i Aleksandar Sergejevič Puškin, čijim se stihovima „podigoh spomenik sebi što nije rukom tvoren“ divio. JOVO AnĐIĆ Auto zahvaljuje Narodnom muzeju iz Niša, posebno kustosu Jovanu Mladenoviću, za fotografije i dokumente ustupljene za objavljivanje

DYNASTIC TALES | KING MILAN OBRENOVIĆ (MANASIJA / MĂRĂŞEŞTI - WALLACHIA, 1854 - VIENNA, 1901)

POLITICAL AND EMOTIONAL PROFILE In Serbia people say of those who spend more than they earn and those who live gallantly: “He lives likes king Milan.” Contemporaries and historians have recorded controversial opinions about him, but the unjustified negative ones prevail. During the reign of King Milan Serbia became a modern European state – it gained independence, expanded territorially and rose into the dignity of a kingdom.

ilan was the child of divorced parents and was cared for by his grandfather Jevrem and princes Miloš and Mihailo. Following the assassination of Prince Mihailo, the Grand National Assembly brought him to the throne (in 1868), but since he was a minor a governorship was appointed to manage the state. The uprising in Bosnia and Herzegovina dragged Serbia into war with Turkey (1876-1878). In the first war Serbia suffered defeat, but it had more success in the second and Serbian troops made it to Kosovo. At the Berlin Congress (1878) Serbia gained independence and territorial expansion by four districts (Niš, Pirot, Vranje and Toplica). On the country’s foreign policy front, it was the biggest success recorded by Serbia during the 19th century. Three political parties were formally established: the Radicals, the Progressives and the Liberals. The Progressives, together with the Prince, steered the country’s foreign policy towards Austria-Hungary and concluded a Secret Convention (1881) with Austro-Hungary, though this convention too greatly tied Serbia to this monarchy. In return, AustroHungary gave support to Serbia being elevated to the rank of a Kingdom (1882). During the reign of Milan Obrenović Serbia became a modern European state. It gained independence, territorial expansion and rose to enjoy the dignity of a kingdom. The country got two constitutions – the Regent’s Constitution (Namesnički ustav) of 1869, which enabled the emergence of a strong government, and the Constitution of 1888 – one of the most democratic constitutions in Europe, which enabled the introduction of parliamentarism in Serbia. A strong standing army was formed, the National Bank was established, laws were introduced governing freedom of the press, assemblies and associations, while the construction of a railroad led to the country’s economic upswing. King Milan abdicated in 1889, and went abroad,

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Proclamation of the coming of age of Prince Milan Obrenović, 1872 enjoying a good life full of romantic adventures. He lived in Serbia from 1894 to 1900 as a kind of coruler with his son Aleksandar. He died in Vienna of pneumonia at the age of 47. Milan was described by many as the most attractive Serbian ruler, with ”a shapely figure, beautiful regular facial features, lively eyes etc.” SERBIAN MADAME POMPADOUR Milan’s love life was full of adventure – people talked about them, but also made a lot up, and those stories followed him from an early age. He was sentimental with women and would quickly fall in love, ready to do everything for the woman he liked. Only a few of the prince’s pre-marriage relationships are known. We will mention only his first chosen one – a young widow, Leposava Novaković. Contemporaries noted that they genuinely loved each other and that the infatuated prince offered to take her hand in marriage, but Leposava herself discouraged the idea, knowing that she could never become a Serbian princess. And even after the break the prince was not indifferent towards her. Because of her relationship with the prince, the people call Leposava ‘Madame Pompadour’. She wisely kept the prince’s letters and later blackmailed the Serbian government, threatening to sell them to a foreign country. That’s why she was regularly paid rent. MARRIAGE TO NOBLE NATALIE The prince’s marriage was subject to a lot of consideration at an early stage. The original plan was for the prince to marry a Russian princess. However, the Russians did not want to give their princess to a vassal ruler. However, it was more important for the prince to marry a rich woman, because he was constantly facing financial difficulties. He

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chose Natalie Keşco and she immediately agreed to marry him, convinced that her destiny was to play the role of a queen. Natalie was born into a family that was an offshoot of the Russian and Romanian (Moldovan) nobility. She married Milan Obrenović, ruler of Serbia, in 1875. The following entry was made in the Protocol of the Married of the Episcopal Church of Saint Michael the Archangel in Belgrade: Milan Obrenović, Prince of Serbia, at the age of 21 years, 1 month and 25 days, and virgin

Natalie of Peter Keşco, former lord of the land, citizen of Odessa in Russia, at the age of 16 years, 5 months and 3 days, are united in wedlock on the 5th of October 1875. They were married by the Archbishop of Belgrade and the Serbian Metropolitan Mihailo, while the godfather was the Emperor of All Russia Alexander II. The wedding itself was followed by evil omens. When the wedding crowd went inside the church it was a sunny day, but during the wedding ceremony thick clouds swept over Belgrade, to be followed by complete darkness. On the way out of the church, there were awaited by thunder. When they boarded their carriage, two white horses did not want to move. After several minutes, the horses reared and nearly toppled the carriage with the newlyweds. The gathered Belgraders commented: “This is a bad omen!” At first the newlyweds were very much in love and lived in harmony. He cooed to her “my kozak woman” and she called herself a girl from a small town, but the couple’s love affair was short-lived. And it was not just for one reason. Natalie found it extremely difficult to cope with the death of their second son Sergej, and then, one by one, the king’s infidelities came one after another. Over time, the love dissipated and turned into open mutual hatred.

MARITAL CONFLICT AS A NATIONAL PROBLEM Milan’s love escapades ranged from an adventure with Mrs. Mica, wife of General Kosta Protić, who had been a lady-in-waiting at court. The queen was even more shaken by the king’s incestuous relationship with his cousin, his uncle’s daughter, Marija, known as Mišon. When the love affair became dangerous and the court became the target of gossip, the king’s uncle got involved to protect Natalie. Mišon was distanced from the court despite the king’s protesting. The final separation of the king and the queen came in 1887 when the queen left the country with her son, the prince crown, so he could be educate abroad. Natalie also could not handle Milan’s obsession with gambling, nor his extravagance, which happened to be the reason the court ran out of money. Furthermore, an important reason for the misunderstanding that would turn into frenzied quarrels and, in the end, become a real hatred, was the conflict over the court’s policy regarding where the new kingdom should turn to. Natalie had no reservations about favouring Russia, whereas Milan saw Serbia’s future in relations with the Viennese court. Their marital conflict soon grew into a national problem. The king asked the prime minister to allow him to divorce the queen, which was rejected, with the PM siding with the queen and then resigniing. The king then took the crown prince from Natalie in an event known as the “Wiesbaden Scandal” and filed for divorce. Although public opinion was on the side of the queen, the king

was able to have the Metropolitan divorce him in an irregular procedure in 1888. This event caused even greater sympathy for the queen among the people, while the king’s governing authority was completely undermined. LOVE CONSUMED The relationship between the king and Artemiza Hristić was conceived in around 1886. Artemiza was married to Milan Hristić. The king was so passionately in love with her that he appointed her husband as his secretary so that she could always be in his vicinity. His visits to Mrs Hristić became common knowledge. After a love affair lasting nearly two years, the king decided to divorce, abdicate and re-marry (1888). The following year he abdicated in favour of his son, Aleksandar, and went on a pilgrimage to venerate the tomb of Christ. Artemiza left her husband and took refuge in Constantinople, where her parents lived. She was pregnant and there gave birth to the king’s illegitimate son Đorđe. Because of this the king travelled to be in Constantinople in time for the birth. Artemiza exerted pressure on the king to marry, to which the king had agreed in his letters, but he also procrastinated. He was busy with his financial problems and in Paris, where he was residing, he was having a number of new adventures. She went there to look for him, but, after four years, he was no longer in love with her. The Parisian police expelled Artemiza and she returned to her parents in Constantinople. The impossibility of coexistence between King Milan and Queen Natalie proved most obvious dur-

ing the Serbo-Bulgarian war, into which the king embarked headlong and unprepared. THE COUNTESS OF RUDNIK Following defeat the agonised Milan wanted to abdicate and leave the country with his family. Natalie objected, primarily in order to secure the throne for their young son, and there was even a suggestion that she took of the reign. The king believed that the queen wanted to reign and so changed his mind. After all, as historian and politician Slobodan Jovanović wrote, she ”had all the qualities that Milan lacked – chastity, courage, pride - and, despite being a foreigner, she had much love for Serbia.” Expelled from the country, Natalia spent decades living in a secluded villa, “Sašino”, in the French elitist resort of Biarritz. After the assassination of her son, Aleksandar, in 1903, she withdrew completely, changed faith, despite her Russophilia that determined her whole life, and in 1918 found herself in the Paris Catholic monastery of Notre Dame, where she spent the rest of her life, hidden under the name of “the Countess of Rudnik” (a title also often used by King Milan). However, she never completely rejected Serbia. In her will she bestowed an enormous family property to Belgrade University. JOVANKA VESELINOVIĆ OLGA LATINČIĆ Photographs: HISTORICAL ARCHIVES OF BELGRADE

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DINASTIČKE PRIČE | KRALJ MILAN OBRENOVIĆ (MANASIJA– VLAŠKA, 1854 – BEČ, 1901)

POLITIČKI I EMOTIVNI PROFIL U Srbiji se za one koji troše više nego što steknu, za one koji žive galantno, kaže: „Živi ko kralj Milan.“ Savremenici i istoričari zabeležili su kontroverzna mišljenja o njemu, ali preovlađuju neopravdano negativna. Za vreme vladavine kralja Milana Srbija je postala moderna evropska država – stekla je nezavisnost, teritorijalno proširenje i uzdigla se u dostojanstvo kraljevine. Vranjski i Toplički). Na spoljnopolitičkom planu to je bio najveći uspeh koji je Srbija zabeležila u 19. veku. Formirane su formalno i tri političke stranke – Radikalna, Napredna i Liberalna. Naprednjaci su, zajedno sa knezom, usmerili spoljnu politiku prema Austrougarskoj i sklopili s njom Tajnu konvenciju (1881), koja je previše vezivala Srbiju za tu monarhiju. Zauzvrat je Austrougarska podržala Srbiji u uzdizanju zemlje u rang kraljevine (1882). Za vladavine Milana Obrenovića Srbija je postala moderna evropska država – stekla je nezavisnost, teritorijalno proširenje i uzdigla se u dostojanstvo kraljevine. Dobila je dva ustava – Namesnički iz 1869, koji je omogućio pojavu jakih vlada i Ustav iz 1888. – jedan od najdemokratskijih ustava u Evropi, omogućio je uvođenje parlamentarizma u Srbiji. Stvorena je jaka stajaća vojska, osnovana Narodna banka, doneti su zakoni o slobodi štampe, zborovima i udruženjima, a izgradnja železničke pruge dovela je do privrednog uzleta zemlje. Kralj Milan abdicirao je 1889. godine i otišao u inostranstvo, uživajući u lagodnom životu punom ljubavnih avantura. U Srbiji je živeo od 1894. do 1900, kao neka vrsta savladara svom sinu Aleksandru. Umro je u Beču od upale pluća, u svojoj 47. godini. Milana su mnogi opisivali kao najlepšeg srpskog vladara: „Stasit, lepih pravilnih crta, živih očiju...“

ilan je bio dete razvedenih roditelja i o njemu su se starali deda Jevrem i kneževi Miloš i Mihailo. Posle ubistva kneza Mihaila, Velika narodna skupština dovela ga je na presto (1868), a pošto je bio maloletan, izabrala je namesništvo, koje je upravljalo državom.

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King Milan, Historical Archive of Belgrade Ustanak u Bosni i Hercegovini uvukao je Srbiju u rat sa Turskom (1876–1878). U prvom ratu Srbija je doživela poraz, ali je u drugom imala uspeha i srpska vojska je stigla do Kosova. Na Berlinskom kongresu (1878) Srbija je stekla nezavisnost i teritorijalno proširenje za četiri okruga (Niški, Pirotski,

SRPSKA MADAM POMPADUR Ljubavni život Milana Obrenovića bio je pun avantura – o njima se pričalo, ali i izmišljalo, i one su ga pratile od rane mladosti. Prema ženama je bio sentimentalan, brzo se zaljubljivao i bio spreman da sve učini za ženu koja mu se dopadala. Zna se samo za nekoliko kneževih veza pre braka. Pomenućemo njegovu prvu izabranicu – mladu udovicu Leposavu Novaković. Savremenici su zabeležili da su se iskreno zavoleli, a zaljubljeni knez joj je ponudio brak, međutim sama Leposava ga je odvratila od toga, jer je bila svesna da ne

može postati srpska kneginja. I posle razlaza, knez nije bio ravnodušan prema njoj. Čaršija je Leposavu zbog veze sa knezom zvala madam Pompadur. Ona je mudro sačuvala kneževa pisma i ucenjivala srpsku vladu da će ih prodati jednoj stranoj državi. Zbog toga joj je redovno isplaćivana renta . ŽENIDBA PLEMKINJOM NATALIJOM O kneževoj ženidbi rano je počelo da se razmišlja. Prvobitni plan bio je da se knez oženi ruskom princezom. Međutim Rusi nisu želeli da daju svoju princezu za vazalnog vladara. Knezu je, pak, bilo važno da se oženi bogatom ženom, jer je neprekidno imao finansijske teškoće. Izabrao je Nataliju Keško, a ona je odmah pristala na udaju, uverena da joj je sudbina namenila ulogu kraljice. Natalija je rođena u porodici koja je bila izdanak ruskog i rumunskog (moldavskog) plemstva. Za Milana Obrenovića, vladara Srbije, udala se 1875. godine. U knjigu Protokol venčanih Saborne crkve Svetog Arhangela Mihaila u Beogradu upisano je: „Milan Obrenović, knez srpski, star 21 godinu, 1 mesec i 25 dana i devica Natalija od Petra Keška, bivšeg vlastelina, žiteljnica Odese u Rusiji, stara 16 godina, 5 meseci i 3 dana, venčali su se 5. oktobra 1875. godine. Venčao ih je arhiepiskop beogradski i mitropolit srpski Mihailo, a kum je bio Imperator Sveruski Aleksandar II. Samo venčanje pratilo je zlo znamenje. Kad su svatovi pošli u crkvu, bio je sunčan dan. Tokom venčanja nad Beogradom su se nadvili gusti oblaci i sasvim se smračilo. Na izlazu iz crkve dočekala ih je grmljavina. Kada su seli u kočije, dva belca nisu htela da krenu. Posle nekoliko minuta konji su se propeli i zamalo prevrnuli kočiju sa mladencima. Okupljeni Beograđani su komentarisali: „Ovo je loše znamenje!“ U početku mladenci su, veoma zaljubljeni, živeli skladno. On je njoj tepao „moja kozakinja”, a ona je sebe nazivala malom palančankom, ali zaljubljenost bračnog para nije bila dugog veka. I to ne samo zbog jednog razloga. Natalija je izuzetno teško podnela smrt drugog sina Sergeja, a onda su se, jedna za drugim, ređala otvorena kraljeva neverstva. S vremenom ljubav je prešla u otvorenu obostranu mržnju. BRAČNI SUKOB KAO DRŽAVNI PROBLEM Milanove ljubavne avanture ređale su se počevši od gospođe Mice, žene generala Koste Protića, koja je bila dvorska dama. Mnogo jače kraljicu je pogodila njegova rodoskrvna veza sa sestrom od ujaka Marijom, zvanom Mišon. Kad je ljubavna avantura postala opasna i dvor bio meta ogovaranja, umešao se i kraljev ujak, koji je stao uz Nataliju. Mišon je udaljena sa dvora uprkos kraljevom negodovanju. Do konačnog razlaza kralja i kraljice došlo je 1887, kada je ona sa prestolonaslednikom napustila zem-

lju zbog njegovog vaspitanja u inostranstvu. Natalija nije mogla da podnese ni Milanovu opsednutost kartanjem, ni rasipništvo zbog kojeg se dešavalo da dvor ostane bez pare. Uz to, važan razlog nesporazuma, koji su se pretvorili u besomučne svađe i, na kraju, izrodili u pravu mržnju, bio je i sukob oko toga na koga valja politički da se osloni novo kraljevstvo. Natalija je bez ostatka naginjala Rusiji, dok je Milan budućnost Srbije video u vezi s bečkim dvorom. Njihovi bračni sukobi uskoro su prerasli u državni problem. Kralj je tražio od predsednika vlade da mu dopusti da se razvede od kraljice, na šta on nije pristajao, nego je stao na stranu kraljice i podneo ostavku. Kralj je tada oteo prestolonaslednika od Natalije, događaj poznat kao „Visbadenski skandal“, i podneo zahtev za razvod braka. Iako je javno mnjenje bilo na strani kraljice, kralj je uspeo da ga mitropolit neredovnim putem razvede, 1888. godine. Taj događaj izazvao je u narodu još veću simpatiju prema kraljici, a kraljev vladalački autoritet bio je potpuno narušen. POTROŠENA LJUBAV Veza između kralja i Artemize Hristić začela se oko 1886. godine. Artemiza je bila udata za Milana Hristića. Kralj se bio tako strastveno zaljubio u nju da je njenog muža imenovao za svog sekretara kako bi mu ona stalno bila u blizini. Njegove posete gospođi Hristić postale su opštepoznate. Posle skoro dvogodišnje ljubavne veze, kralj je doneo odluku o razvodu braka, abdikaciji i novoj ženidbi (1888). Već naredne godine odrekao se prestola u korist svoga sina Aleksandra i otputovao na hadžiluk da se pokloni Hristovom grobu. Artemiza je napustila muža i sklonila se u Carigrad kod svojih roditelja. Bila je u drugom stanju i tamo je kralju rodila vanbračnog sina Đorđa. Kralj je zbog toga i putovao kako bi u vreme njenog porođaja bio u Carigradu. Artemiza je vršila pritisak da se venčaju, na šta je kralj u pismima pristajao, ali i odugovlačio. Bio je zauzet svojim finansijskim problemima, a u Parizu, gde je boravio, imao je nove i brojne avanture. Ona je pošla tamo da ga traži, ali on, nakon četiri godine, više nije bio zaljubljen u nju. Pariska policija proterala je Artemizu i ona se vratila svojima u Carigrad. KRAJ GROFICE OD RUDNIKA Nemogućnost zajedničkog života između kralja Milana i kraljice Natalije najočiglednije se pokazala za vreme Srpsko-bugarskog rata, u koji je kralj krenuo bezglavo, nepripremljen. Zbog poraza je ojađeni Milan hteo da abdicira i da s porodicom ode van zemlje. Natalija se usprotivila, ponajviše da bi obezbedila presto maloletnom sinu, čak je postojao predlog da ona

Natalija Kescho, Historical Archive of Belgrade preuzme namesništvo. Kralj je poverovao da kraljica hoće da kraljuje i predomislio se. Uostalom, kako je pisao istoričar i političar Slobodan Jovanović, ona je „imala sve vrline koje su Milanu nedostajale – čednost, kuraž, ponositost, i osećala je, iako tuđinka, mnogo ljubavi prema Srbiji”. Proterana iz zemlje, Natalija je decenijama živela povučeno u vili „Sašino” u francuskom mondenskom letovalištu Bijaric. Posle ubistva sina Aleksandra, 1903. godine, potpuno se povukla. Promenila je veru uprkos rusofilstvu koje je odredilo čitav njen život, a 1918. našla se u pariskom katoličkom manastiru Notr dam d’Sijon, gde je provela ostatak života, skrivena, sa imenom „grofica od Rudnika” (što je titula koju je neretko koristio i kralj Milan). Ipak, Srbiju nikada nije potpuno odbacila. Ogromno porodično imanje darovala je testamentom Beogradskom univerzitetu. JOVANKA VESELINOVIĆ OLGA LATINČIĆ Fotografije: ISTORIJKSI ARHIV BEOGRADA

BelGuest JESEN | AUTUMN 2012

Димитрије Ц. Ђорђевић

КРОЗ СТАРИ БЕОГРАД

им ић ро ни им та,

G L A S N I K

КРОЗ СТАРИ БЕОГРАД

E D I T I O N

imitrije C. Djordjević writes about the old Belgrade not as an observer, but rather as a participant. He sees the ruler from the perspective of a telegraphist working in the Belgrade Ministerial Telegraph, which was located in the Court. He remembered Belgrade musicians as a member of two famous choirs... He has an extraordinary knowledge of sports as an athlete in the first gymnastic society set up by the painter

THE PEOPLE WHO BUILT THE SPIRIT OF BELGRADE

Steva Todorović. He is familiar with the theatrical life thanks to his friendships with Branislav Nušić, Stevan Sremac, Milovan Glišić, Ilija Stanojević. He can write about the Belgrade bohemia as an every day and every night visitor of the taverns Kolarac, Dardanelles, Theatre Casina, but also of Pretty Katherine, the Bosporus and the German Emperor, writes the editor of the book Milorad Jovanović.

Terazije fountain, 1876

H I S T O R Y

The richly illustrated book titled “Through the Old Belgrade” collects the texts of Dimitrije C. Djordjević – the famous telegraphist, journalist and publicist. This gifted man witnessed and participated in key historical events, and his stories about the city and its inhabitants are placed in a dynamic time in which modern Belgrade was shaped. He knew in detail the history of each city quarter, and the heroes of his chronicles are rulers, merchants, restaurant owners, bohemians, carriage drivers... He had articles published in various magazines, most notably in the newspaper “Politika”.

Димитрије Ц. Ђорђевић

по и

S L U Ž B E N I

AUTUMN | JESEN 2012 BelGuest

THE ROARING OF A NEW AGE Dimitrije C. Djordjević describes an extraordinary time in the history of Belgrade, which began in the late 19th and early 20th century, when the city underwent daily transformations and when, one by one, numerous technological miracles arrived in it. The first telegrams and telegraphs are described, as well as “the first steps of our telephones,” conjuring up the atmosphere of the meeting of Belgrade with the first electric light, when the city applauded to “Aladdin’s magic lamps.” In his chronicles he also writes about tumultuous scenes at the public water fountains of Belgrade, which preceded the introduction of modern water supply system. His style is vivacious, and his eye sharp and insightful. “One fine morning in the spring 1892, at the time just after Easter, the first blow of steel pickaxe fell onto Belgrade’s Turkish-style uneven pavement, and in the midst of Kralja Milana Street... This was the beginning of the construction of the first horse-drawn tram tracks...” Djordjević describes the emergence of the modern urban transport. He recorded many of the details and the opening of

Kolarac Restaurant

the first radio station, and a real pearl is the story about the antiquarian Ignjačević, who on the day of opening of the telegraph sent a message to the inhabitants of Mars from Belgrade. He addressed the telegram to the universe, and in the text he wrote: Let me know if you have antique things. The telegram was sent from a radio station in the Rakovica neighbourhood. STREETS, NEIGHBOURHOODS, BUILDINGS AND RESIDENTS How the outskirts of the city looked like once upon a time, what the neighbourhood of Vračar was like when the Saxons inhabited it, what the street of “nobility” was like and who lived in it, where the city’s first promenade route was and how it looked like – are some of the titles and topics dealt by the author in his city micro history. He wrote a series of articles on Belgrade hotels and inns – describing the environments and characters, and the story is spiced by anecdotes that vividly evoke the spirit of Belgrade.

Djordjević discovers a strange twist of fate – the construction of the magnificent city buildings of that time – the Russia Palace along with the Hotel Moscow – was preceded by a conflict between King Milan and the president of the Serbian Shipping Company Mr. Vukadinović, who emigrated to Russia and then came back and made a great work, that he had never previously dreamed of. The chronicles do not mention just great people; Djordjević equally carefully writes about the adventures and fates of ordinary people. CULTURE OF MEMORY Djordjević depicts dramatic historical moments – such as the imposition of Austro-Hungarian customs sanctions on the import of pigs – by describing the struggle of the Serbian Trade Association, that called on traders from across the country to help solve this together, and to see “...what ought to be done in the future so that we are not any longer exposed to our

The book, “Through the Old Belgrade” received the award “Golden Ten” in July of 2012– a recognition that the Club of Economic Journalists awards. This award belongs to “those who, through their work contributed to the preservation of the spirit of Belgrade and its values.” The award was presented at Skadarlija-fest and was, appropriately, celebrated in the company of poets, musicians, journalists and culinary masters. neighbour’s harassment.” This call was followed by a “magnificent gathering never until then seen in Belgrade”, the untied traders finally won a victory and Belgrade got its first slaughterhouse. Djordjević records the stories from balls, dances, fairs, sports events... and writes “real small causeries about people who have built themselves into the spirit of Belgrade.” m ILenA m IHALJČIĆ

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

S L U Ž B E N I

G L A S N I K

–

E D I C I J A

I S T O R I J A

LJUDI KOJI SU GRADILI DUH BEOGRADA U bogato ilustrovanoj knjizi sa naslovom „Kroz stari Beograd“ sabrani su tekstovi Dimitrija C. Đorđevića – slavnog telegrafiste, novinara i publiciste. Ovaj obdareni čovek bio je učesnik i svedok ključnih istorijskih događaja, a njegove priče o gradu i njegovim žiteljima smeštene su u dinamično vreme u kojem je oblikovan moderni Beograd. Znao je do u tančine istoriju svakog gradskog kvarta, a junaci njegovih hronika su vladari, trgovci, kafedžije, boemi, fijakeristi... Tekstove je objavljivao u različitim časopisima, a ponajviše u listu „Politika“.

Dimitrije C. Đorđević

imitrije C. Đorđević piše o starom Beogradu ne kao posmatrač već kao učesnik. On vladara posmatra iz perspektive telegrafiste beogradskog Ministarskog telegrafa, koji se nalazi pri samom Dvoru. Beogradske muzičare pamtio je kao član dva znamenita hora... Sport izvanredno poznaje kao vežbač u prvom fiskulturnom društvu slikara Steve Todorovića. U pozorišni život upućen je kao prijatelj Branislava Nušića, Stevana Sremca, Milovana Glišića, Čiča Ilije Stanojevića. O beogradskoj boemiji može da piše kao svakodnevni i svakonoćni posetilac Kolarca, Dardanela, Pozorišne kasine, ali i Lepe Katarine, Bosfora i Nemačkog cara. - piše priređivač knjige Milorad Jovanović.

AUTUMN | JESEN 2012 BelGuest

HUK NOVOG VREMENA Dimitrije C. Đorđević opisuje jedno izuzetno vreme istorije Beograda, koje je započelo krajem 19. i početkom 20. veka, kada se grad svakodnevno preobražavao i kada su, jedno za drugim, u njega stizala mnoga čuda tehnike. Piše o prvim depešama i telegrafu, opisuje „prve korake našeg telefona“, dočarava atmosferu susreta Beograđana i prvog električnog osvetljenja, kada je grad klicao „Aladinovim čudotvornim kandilima“. U svojim hronikama piše i o burnim scenama na beogradskim česmama, koje su prethodile uvođenju savremenog vodovoda. Njegov stil je živ, a njegovo oko pronicljivo i oštro. „Jednog lepog jutra, s proleća 1892. godine, nekako odmah posle Uskrsa, pao je prvi udarac čeličnog pijuka u neravnu beogradsku kaldrmu turskog stila, i to posred ulice kralja Milana... To je, dakle, bio početak rada za izgradnju prvih tramvaja sa konjskom vučom...“, opisuje Đorđević nastanak modernog gradskog prevoza. On beleži i mnoge pojedinosti otvaranja prve radio-stanice, a pravi biser je njegova pripovest o antikvaru Ignjačeviću, koji je na dan otvaranja telegrafa iz Beograda poslao poruku stanovnicima Marsa. Telegram je adresovao na vasionu, a u tekstu napisao: Javite imate li antičkih stvari. Telegram je poslat sa radiostanice u Rakovici. ULICE, KVARTOVI, ZGRADE I ŽITELJI Kako je nekada izgledala periferija, kako je Vračar naseljen Saksoncima, kako je izgledala ulica „krupne gospode“ i ko je u njoj i kako živeo, gde se nalazio i kako je izgledao prvi gradski korzo – neki su od naslova i tema u kojima se autor bavi mikroistorijom grada. Napisao je čitavu seriju tekstova o beogradskim hotelima i kafanama – opisujući ambijente i karaktere, a priče je začinio zgodama koje živo

Knjiga „Kroz stari Beograd“ dobila je u julu 2012. godine „Zlatnu desetku” – priznanje koje dodeljuje Klub privrednih novinara. Ova nagrada pripada „onima koji su svojim radom i delom dali doprinos duhu Beograda i očuvanju njegovih vrednosti“. Nagrada je uručena na Skadarlija-festu i, kako dolikuje, proslavljena u društvu pesnika, muzičara, novinara i majstora kulinarstva. dočaravaju duh Beograđana. Đorđević otkriva i čudne igre sudbine – izgradnji veličanstvenog gradskog zdanja tog vremena – palati Rosija sa hotelom Moskva – prethodio je sukob između kralja Milana i predsednika Srpskog brodarskog društva gospodina Vukadinovića, koji je emigrirao u Rusiju, a potom se vratio i ostvario veliko delo, o kojem prethodno nije ni sanjao. U hronikama se ne pominju samo veliki ljudi, Đorđević podjednako brižljivo piše i o dogodovštinama i sudbinama običnih ljudi. KULTURA PAMĆENJA Dramatične istorijske trenutke – poput uvođenja austrougarskih carinskih sankcija na uvoz svinja – Đorđević dočarava borbom Srpskog trgovačkog udruženja, koje je pozvalo trgovce iz čitave zemlje kako bi zajedno rešili „...šta bi valjalo uraditi da i ubuduće ne bi bili izloženi šikanama i ćeifima naše susetke“. Usledio je „veličanstven zbor kakav do tada nikada nije bio u Beogradu“, udruženi trgovci su naposletku izvojevali pobedu, a Beograd je dobio svoju prvu klanicu. Đorđević beleži i priče sa balova, igranki, vašara, sportskih nadmetanja... ispisujući „prave male kozerije o ljudima koji su se ugradili u duh Beograda“. M ILENA M IHALJČIĆ

F E S T I V A L S

A N D

E V E N T S

53rd OCTOBEr SALON

22nd September to 5th November, building of the Geodetic Institute

A GOOD LIFE

avamala has become a favourite meeting place for artistic souls. Therefore, this year’s October Salon is located in the Geodetic Institute, one of the most beautiful but also most neglected historic buildings in Belgrade. Under the slogan “A Good Life” artists from eleven European countries, inspired by the locality in which the Salon is organised, through their works – sculptures, installations, videos, interviews, stories, essays, paintings, photos, comics, are searching for an answer to the question what a good life is. Info: www.oktobarskisalon.org

53. OKTOBArSKI SALON

22. septembar – 5. novembar, zgrada Geodetskog zavoda

DOBAR ŽIVOT

avamala postala je omiljeno mesto okupljanja umetničkih duša. Stoga se ovogodišnji Oktobarski salon smestio u Geodetski zavod, jednu od najlepših, ali i najzapuštenijih istorijskih zgrada u Beogradu. Pod sloganom „Good life“ umetnici iz jedanaest evropskih zemalja, inspirisani lokalitetom u kojem se Salon održava, kroz svoje radove – skulpture, instalacije, filmove, intervjue, priče, eseje, slike, fotografije, stripove, tragaju za odgovorom na pitanje šta je to dobar život. Info: www.oktobarskisalon.org

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

F E S T I V A L I

M A N I F E S T A C I J E

EUROPEAN HERITAGE DAYS

DANI EVROPSKE BAŠTINA

GOLDEN TIMES OF DONATIONS AND ENDOWMENTS

ZLATNO DOBA DOBROČINSTVA

ani evropske baštine u Beogradu, kao i u čitavoj Srbiji, deo su velike panevropske proslave kulturnih vrednosti i tradicije. Svake godine realizuje se na stotine raznovrsnih programa: izložbi, vođenja kroz postavke, predavanja, promocija, projekcija, razgledanja vrednih zdanja, ambijentalnih celina... Svaka godina ima svoju posebno osmišljenu temu, a 2012. godina posvećena je narodnim dobrotvorima. Zadužbinarstvo je važan deo srpske tradicije koje je svoj puni procvat doživelo krajem 19. i početkom 20. veka. Naročito je u Beogradu ova vrsta dobročinstva doživela svoje zlatno doba u periodu od 1918. do 1941. godine kada je formirano nekoliko velikih zadužbina kao što su Zadužbine Nikole Spasića, Alekse Krsmanovića, Luke Ćelovića Trebinjca, Vlajka Kalenića, Ilije Kolarca, Nikole Čupića, Sime Andrejevića Igumanova, Perside Milenković... Uz noseću temu, Dani evropske baštine predstaviće javnosti i druge, nedovoljno poznate dragocenosti grada. Organizator manifestcije je Sekreterijat za privredu grada, a programi su besplatni. Info: www.beograd.rs

he European Heritage Days in Belgrade, as well as in the whole of Serbia, are part of the major panEuropean celebration of cultural values and traditions. Every year, hundreds of various programmes are carried out: exhibitions, exhibition guidance, lectures, promotions, screenings, sightseeing valuable buildings and ambiental units... Each year has its own specially designed theme, and the year 2012 is dedicated to the national benefactors. Endowment is an important part of the Serbian tradition that has experienced its full bloom in the 19th and early 20th century. Especially in Belgrade this kind of benefaction experienced its golden times in the period from 1918 to 1941, when several large endowments were established such as the foundations of Nikola Spasić, Aleksa Krsmanović, Luka Ćelović Trebinjac, Vlajko Kalenić, Ilija Kolarac, Nikola Čupić, Sima Andrejević Igumanov, Persida Milenković... In addition to the main theme, the European Heritage Days will present the public with some other “treasures” of the city that are not generally known. The organiser of the event is the City Secretariat for the Economy, and the programmes are free of charge. Info: www.beograd.rs

DAYS OF THE FUTURE: ROBOTICS

24th September – 15th October, Gallery of Beograd Department Store (Knez Mihailova 5)

ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE

he intelligent humanoid robot ASIMO is the most famous in the world. It can be seen only at major international fairs, such as Belgrade popular-science event “Days of The Future: Robotics.” Aside from ASIMO, the Centre for the Promotion of Science and Electrical Engineering of the University of Belgrade, in cooperation with numerous partners, will feature more than twenty robots from around the world. Info: www.danibuducnosti.rs www.cpn.rs

DANI BUDUĆNOSTI: ROBOTIKA

24. septembar – 15. oktobar, Galerija Robne kuće Beograd (Knez Mihailova 5)

VEŠTAČKA INTELIGENCIJA

nteligentni humanoid Asimo je najčuveniji robot na svetu. Moguće ga je videti samo na velikim svetskim sajmovima, kao što je i beogradska naučnopopularna manifestacija „Dani budućnosti: Robotika“. Centar za promociju nauke i Elektrotehnički fakultet Univerziteta u Beogradu, u saradnji sa brojnim partnerima, pored Asima, na sajmu će predstaviti više od 20 robota iz celog sveta. Info: www.danibuducnosti.rs www.cpn.rs

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

F E S T I V A L S

THE 10TH INTErNATIONAL COMICS SALON

27th – 30th September, Happy Gallery of the Students Cultural Centre (SKC)

A N D

E V E N T S

10. MEĐUNArOdNI SALON STrIPA

27–30. septembar, Srećna galerija Studentskog kulturnog centra

JUBILEE OF VISUAL NARRATION JUBILEJ VIZUELNE NARACIJE

n the first ten years, more than 1,500 comic-authors from 50 countries competed at the International Comics Salon. The Salon has become the most extensive and the ninth largest art festival in Serbia and the region. Special guests of the jubilee salon are robert Crumb, Aline Kominsky-Crumb, Gilbert Shelton and Laura Fountain. Info: www.skc.org.rs

prvih deset godina na Međunarodnom salonu stripa takmičilo se više od 1500 strip-autora iz 50 zemalja sveta. Salon je postao najmasovniji i najveći festival devete umetnosti u Srbiji i regionu. Specijalni gosti jubilarnog salona su robert Crumb, Aline Kominsky-Crumb, Gilbert Shelton i Lora Fountain. Info: www.skc.org.rs

43. rAdOST EVrOPE

1-6. oktobar, Dečiji kulturni centar i Centar „Sava“

LEVE I DESNE PRITOKE

THE 43rd JOY OF EUrOPE

1st - 6th October, Children’s Cultural Centre and Sava Centre

LEFT AND RIGHT TRIBUTARIES

he Joy of Europe is the oldest and the largest international event of child creativity. At the beginning of October children from many countries of Europe are arriving to Belgrade – to play, sing, act, and above all, socialise and have fun. The theme of this year’s festival is: “Let streams flow into the rivers wide, allowing tributaries to flow left and right”. The verses of duško radović should serve the children from Europe to find inspiration for imagination, through thinking and artistic creativity. Info: www.joyofeurope.rs

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

adost Evrope najveća je i najstarija međunarodna manifestacija dečijeg stvaralaštva. Početkom oktobra u Beograd stižu deca iz mnogih zemalja Evrope – igraju, pevaju, glume, a pre svega se druže i dobro zabavljaju. Tema ovogodišnjeg susreta glasi – Spuštajmo potoke u reke široke, razvijajmo leve i desne pritoke. U ovim stihovima duška radovića, deca Evrope ove godine mogu pronaći inspiraciju za maštanje, misaono razmrdavanje i umetničko stvaranje. Info: www.joyofeurope.rs

F E S T I V A L I

M A N I F E S T A C I J E

THE 21ST INTErNATIONAL ETHNOLOGICAL FILM FESTIVAL

21. MEĐUNArOdNI FESTIVAL ETNOLOŠKOG FILMA

CREATIVE EXCHANGE OF EXPERIENCES

KREATIVNA RAZMENA ISKUSTAVA

11th - 15th October

11-15. oktobar

he International Festival of Ethnological Film this autumn will see its twentyfirst edition. The audience will be able to see the latest ethnographic and anthropological films, divided into two categories: competitive and informative. In addition to the main programme, a retrospective of films will be shown, with the participation of foreign guests, panel discussions and workshops. Info: www.etnografskimuzej.rs

eđunarodni festival etnološkog filma ove jeseni imaće svoje dvadeset prvo izdanje. Publika će moći da vidi najnovije filmove etnografskog i antropološkog sadržaja, podeljene u dve kategorije: takmičarsku i informativnu. Pored glavnog programa, biće prikazane i retrospektive filmova, uz učešće gostiju iz inostranstva, okrugle stolove i radionice. Info: www.etnografskimuzej.rs

THE 21ST FASHION SELECTION

21. FASHION SELECTION

GLAMOUR FOR AUTUMN

GLAMUR ZA JESEN

8th - 21st October

rganised by the model agency Select, the twenty-first Fashion Selection will be held this autumn at several locations in the city. For two weeks, visitors will be able to enjoy the top fashion shows and to collect ideas for the upcoming colder days. The event will end with a traditional award granting ceremony for the best fashion ventures. Info: www.fashionselection.rs

8-21. oktobar

organizaciji modne agencije Select ove jeseni biće održan dvadeset prvi Fashion Selection na više lokacija u gradu. Posetioci će dve nedelje moći da uživaju u vrhunskim revijama i da pokupe ideje za predstojeće hladnije dane. Manifestacija će se već tradicionalno završiti dodelom nagrada za najbolje modne poduhvate. Info: www.fashionselection.rs

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

F E S T I V A L S

A N D

E V E N T S

THE 44TH BEMUS “SIEGE OF BELGrAdE”

44. BEMUS „OPSAdA BEOGrAdA“

WINNING OVER WITH GOOD SOUND

OSVAJANJE DOBRIM ZVUKOM

11th - 21st October

ore than four decades, the Belgrade music festival Bemus has been filling Belgrade concert halls with beautiful melodies. This year’s festival in the Kolarac Foundation is held in the honour of classical music and will see the performances of various classical music virtuosos on their instruments – the pianist Aleksandar Madžar on the 13th of October, the French ensemble ‘’Les Arts Florissants’’ on the 14th of October, “St. George” Strings and the Ensemble for New Music “Gradilište” on the 15th of October, LP duo, and the duo Štencl Belgrade String Orchestra “dušan Skovran” on the 16th of October. Performing for the first time at the BEMUS will be Paco de Lucia. The famous Spanish guitarist will perform at the “Sava” Centre on the 18th of October. Info: www.bemus.rs

11-21. oktobar

iše od četiri decenije Bemus ispunjava beogradske koncertne dvorane najlepšim melodijama. U Kolarčevoj zadužbini, na ovogodišnjem festivalu u slavu klasične muzike nastupiće razni virtuozi na svojim instrumentima – pijanista Aleksandar Madžar 13. oktobra, francuski ansambl „Les arst florissants“ 14. oktobra, Gudači „Svetog Đorđa“ i Ansambl za novu muziku „Gradilište“ 15. oktobra, LP duo, Štencl duo i Beogradski gudački orkestar „dušan Skovran” 16. oktobra. Prvi put na BEMUS-u nastupiće i Pako de Lusija. Čuveni španski gitarista sviraće u Centru „Sava“ 18. oktobra. Info: www. bemus.rs

THE 57TH INTErNATIONAL BELGrAdE BOOK FAIr

57. MEĐUNArOdNI BEOGrAdSKI SAJAM KNJIGA

HUNGARIAN DESSERTS

MAĐARSKE POSLASTICE

21st - 28th October, Belgrade Fairgrounds

nder the domes of the Belgrade Fairgrounds, local and foreign publishers are brought together every October, to spite soulless technology and to pay tribute to the written word. Hungary will have the privilege to carry the title of an honorary guest of the book fair this year, and visitors will have the opportunity to meet with the authors in this strange language from the Finno-Ugric family and get to like one specific literature. Info: www.beogradskisajamknjiga.com

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

21–28. oktobar, Beogradski sajam

od kupolom Beogradskog sajma svakog oktobra okupljaju se domaći i strani izdavači, prkosnici bezdušnoj tehnologiji, poklonici pisane reči. Privilegiju da ponese titulu počasnog gosta Sajma knjiga ove godine imaće Mađarska, te će posetioci imati priliku da se upoznaju sa autorima na tom neobičnom jeziku iz ugro-finske porodice i zavole jednu specifičnu književnost. Info: www.beogradskisajamknjiga.com

F E S T I V A L I

M A N I F E S T A C I J E

THE 28TH BELGrAdE JAZZ FESTIVAL

28. BEOGrAdSKI dŽEZ FESTIVAL

ALL THAT JAZZ

SAV TAJ DŽEZ

The Belgrade Jazz Festival presents the best preview of the international jazz concert season. This year the focus is on the trumpet, and the theme of the festival is “The art of the trumpet”, and the participants are the wizards of that brass instrument – dave douglas & Joe Lovano Quintet, Ambrose Akinmusire Quintet, Jerry Gonzalez y el Comando de la Clave, Mostly Other People do The Killing... In addition to these, there will be many artists performing from various jazz schools from our country and from across Europe. Like in previous years, the audience can expect concerts starting from 7.30 p.m. running until late at night. Info: www.belgrade-jazzfest.org www.domomladine.org

Beogradski džez festival predstavlja sažetak svetske koncertne jazz sezone. Ove godine akcenat je stavljen na trubu, te je tema festivala upravo „Umetnost trube“, a učesnici čarobnjaci na tom duvačkom instrumentu – dave douglas & Joe Lovano Quintet, Ambrose Akinmusire Quintet, Jerry Gonzalez y el Comando de la Clave, Mostly Other People do The Killing... Pored njih nastupiće i mnogobrojni umetnici različitih džez škola iz naše zemlje i Evrope. Publiku, kao i prethodnih godina, očekuju koncerti od 19:30 do kasnih noćnih sati. Info: www.belgrade-jazzfest.org www.domomladine.org

25th - 28th October, Youth Centre (Dom omladine)

25-28. oktobar, Dom omladine

THE 32Nd BELGrAdE FASHION WEEK

32. BEOGrAdSKA NEdELJA MOdE

THE 45th MERIDIAN

45. MERIDIJAN

25th October - 5th of November

he main item on the agenda of every lover of fashion this autumn will be the 32nd Belgrade Fashion Week. Along with the individual author shows of old masters and young hopes, the autumn fashion show will be marked by the Proković sisters, who will celebrate 20 years of their successful work. One of the most interesting parts of the program will certainly be a “Zone 45”, whose name is inspired by the 45th meridian that runs through all the countries of the region involved in the project. Info: www.belgradefashionweek.com

25. oktobar – 5. novembar

lavna stavka u agendi svakog ljubitelja mode ove jeseni biće 32. beogradska nedelja mode. Pored autorskih revija starih majstora i mladih nada, jesenja smotra mode biće u znaku sestara Proković, koje će na taj način proslaviti 20 godina uspešnog rada. Jedan od najzanimljivijih delova programa svakako će biti i „Zona 45“, čiji je naziv inspirisan 45. meridijanom koji prolazi kroz sve zemlje regiona uključene u projekat. Info: www.belgradefashionweek.com

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

F E S T I V A L S

A N D

E V E N T S

8th FREE ZONE FILM FESTIVAL 2nd – 7th November, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Youth Centre

48. FILMSKI FESTIVAL SLOBOdNA ZONA

SEE YOU AT FREE ZONE!

VIDIMO SE U SLOBODNOJ ZONI!

This year’s festival programme will, as is tradition, be an opportunity to bring together the most important film connoisseurs, recognised directors, actors and producers, but also direct participants in world events whose experiences were turned into a film story. The innovations for this year’s edition of the festival are the so-called “Night talks”. In the context of the musical warm-up for the festival, two bands, The Ex and Bernays Propaganda, will perform at the rex Culture Centre on 25th October at 8pm. Info: www.freezonebelgrade.or

2.– 7. november, Kulturni centar Beograda, Dom omladine

vogodišnji festivalski program tradicionalno će biti prilika da se na jednom mestu okupe najznačajniji poznavaoci filma, priznati reditelji, glumci, producenti ali i direktni učesnici svetskih događaja čija su iskustva pretvorena u filmske priče. Novina ovogdišnjeg izdanja festivala su Noćni razgovori. U okviru muzičkog zagrevanja za Festival, 25. oktobra u 20 časova u rexu nastupaju The Ex i Bernays propaganda. Info: www.freezonebelgrade.or

THE 8TH BELGrAdE TANGO FESTIVAL

8. BEOGrAdSKI TANGO FESTIVAL

DANCING THOUGHT

MISAO KOJA SE PLEŠE

3rd - 6th November, Kolarac Foundation, Army Club, the building of the Yugoslav River Shipping

he Belgrade Tango Festival has turned the Serbian capital into a must-go tango destination. The festival will be opened by a major tango spectacle at the Kolarac Foundation (on the 3rd of November at 8.00 p.m.), where leading local ensembles and a large number of participants from abroad will perform. The audience will be presented with the local ensemble “Beltango quintet”, tango dancers from Buenos Aires Adrian Veredice, Alejandra Hobert, daniel Aranda and Annatina Luck, and guests from Budapest Johanna Kulik, Josip Bartulovič and Santiago Maciel, who will dance to the songs from different eras of tango. Info: www.belgradetangofestival. com

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

3–6. novembar, Kolarčeva zadužbina, Dom Vojske, zgrada Jugoslovenskog rečnog brodarstva

eogradski tango festival srpsku prestonicu pretvorio je u nezaobilaznu tango destinaciju. Festival će biti otvoren velikim tango spektaklom u Kolarčevoj zadužbini (3. novembra u 20 h), na kome će učestvovati vodeći domaći ansambli i veliki broj učesnika iz inostranstva. Publici će se predstaviti domaći ansambl „Beltango quintet“, plesači tanga iz Buenos Ajresa Adrian Veredice i Alejandra Hobert, daniel Aranda i Annatina Luck, te gosti iz Budimpešte Johanna Kulik, Josip Bartulovič i Santiago Maciel, koji će plesati uz numere iz različitih epoha tanga. Info: www.belgradetangofestival. com

K O N C E R T I

S P E K T A K L I

rUSSIA’S MOST BEAUTIFUL SONGS

NAJLEPŠE PESME rUSIJE

19th October, 8pm, Sava Centre

19. oktobar, 20h, Centar „Sava“

HISTORY CAPTURED IN SONG

ISTORIJA U PESMI UHVAĆENA

elgrade Liberation day is one of the glorious pages in the history of the russian and Serbian nations. On the anniversary of that day, in the Great Hall of the Sava Centre, the most beautiful russian patriotic, military, folk and Cossack compositions will resound. Performing those songs will be artists from the Bolshoi Theatre, the russian Army Choir “Alexandrov” and soloists from russia and Serbia, with the accompaniment of the National Ensemble of radio Television Serbia (rTS). Info: www.savacentar.net

an oslobođenja Beograda jedna je od slavnih stranica u istoriji ruskog i srpskog naroda. Na taj dan u Velikoj dvorani Centra „Sava“ odzvanjaće note najlepših ruskih patriotskih, vojnih, narodnih i kozačkih kompozicija. Izvešće ih umetnici Baljšog teatra, hor ruske armije „Aleksandrov“ i solisti iz rusije i Srbije, a uz pratnju Narodnog ansambla rTS. Info: www.savacentar.net

LOrd OF THE dANCE

20th October, 8pm, KOMBAK Arena

20. oktobar, 20h, KOMBAK Arena

MAGIC OF DANCING STEPS

MAGIJA PLESNIH KORAKA

rish dance sensation Lord of the dance has already had one opportunity to enchant the Belgrade audience. On 20th October those wishing to experience some more magic will be able to enjoy the new choreography, set design, effects, costumes and precise steps of the most admired dancers of all the world lists. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

rska plesna senzacija Lord of the dance već je imala priliku da opčini beogradsku publiku. Oni koji su željni još malo magije 20. oktobra moći će da uživaju u novim koreografijima, scenografijama, efektima, kostimima i preciznim koracima, najcenjenijim na svim svetskim listama. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

STEVE VAI

30th October, 8pm, KOMBANK Arena

30. oktobar, 20h, KOMBANK Arena

VISIONARY NOTES

VIZIONARSKE NOTE

ollowing the visits to Belgrade of many legendary guitarists, one of the greatest among them – Steve Vai – is coming to Belgrade. He will remind the audience of his greatest hits from his long career, but will also present his latest album “The Story of Light”, which is the story of a visionary journey through the human tragedy, discovery, enlightenment and redemption. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

akon što su Beograd posetile mnoge legende gitare, ponovo dolazi jedan od najvećih među njima – Stiv Vai. Publiku će podsetiti na svoje najveće hitove iz dugogodišnje karijere, ali će predstaviti i najnoviji album „The Story of Light“, priču o vizionarskom putovanju čoveka kroz tragedije, otkrića, prosvetljenja i iskupljenja. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

C O N C E R T S

A N D

SLEEPING BEAUTY

S P E C T A C L E S

USPAVANA LEPOTICA

8th November, 8pm, KOMBANK Arena

8. novembar, 20h, KOMBANK Arena

DANCE OF A SLEEPING BEAUTY

PLES USNULE PRINCEZE

legance, grace and perfect performance, coupled with truly regal splendour of costumes and scenery, are what make the St. Petersburg Ballet one of the best in the world. The ballet will present itself to the Belgrade public on 8th November with a performance of Sleeping Beauty by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, with the original choreography and dance acrobatics in a russian way. Tchaikovsky himself said of his ballet: “It is better to see it once than to hear it a hundred times.” Info: www.kombankarena.rs

legancija, gracioznost, savršen ples, raskoš kostima i scene čine Balet St. Peterburga jednim od najboljih na svetu. Beogradskoj publici predstaviće se 8. novembra baletskom predstavom „Uspavana lepotica“ Petra Iljiča Čajkovskog, originalnim koreografijama i plesnim akrobacijama na ruski način. Sam Čajkovski je za svoj balet rekao: Bolje je videti ga jednom nego ga slušati stotinu puta. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

JENNIFEr LOPEZ

20th November, 8pm, KOMBANK Arena

20. novembar, 20h, KOMBANK Arena

QUEEN OF THE PARTY

KRALJICA ZABAVE

ctress, entertainer, music artist, film and TV producer, fashion designer, an aid worker, the most powerful woman on the planet according to the Forbes list, Jennifer Lopez will host a show of international proportions before the Belgrade audience. The pop diva arrives in Serbia on 20th November as part of the tour “dance Again” and will perform at the Belgrade Arena. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

lumica, zabavljač, muzički umetnik, filmski i TV producent, modna dizajnerka, humanitarna radnica , najmoćnija žena na planeti prema Forbsovoj listi, dženifer Lopez prirediće šou svetskih razmera pred publikom u Beogradu. Pop diva dolazi u Srbiju 20. novembra u okviru turneje „dance again“ i nastupiće u Beogradskoj areni. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

K O N C E R T I

OrQUESTA BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB ANd OMArA POrTUONdO

S P E K T A K L I OrQUESTA BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB I OMArA POrTUONdO

24th November, 8pm, Sava Centre

24. novembar, 20h, Centar „Sava“

SPIRIT OF HAVANA

DUH HAVANE

rquesta Buena Vista Social Club and the legendary singer Omara Portuondo are names that today represent symbols of Cuban music in the world. Organised by the Long Play promotion house, they will bring the unique spirit of Havana and Cuba to Belgraders on 24th November with the sounds and rhythms of montunosa, danzon, cha cha cha, boleros and Cuban jazz. Info: www.savacentar.net

STOMP

rquesta Buena Vista Social Club i legendarna pevačica Omara Portuondo imena su koja danas u svetu važe za simbole kubanske muzike. U organizaciji promoterske kuće Long Play 24. novembra doneće Beograđanima jedinstven duh Havane i Kube zvukovima i ritmovima son montunosa, danzóna, cha cha cha, bolerosa i kubanskog džeza. Info: www.savacentar.net

STOMP

28th-29th November, 8pm, Sava Centre

28–29. novembar, 20h, Centar „Sava“

UNEXPECTED MUSIC

NEOČEKIVANA MUZIKA

ritish dance and percussion ensemble STOMP combines movement and music with unusual instruments –matchboxes, plastic bottles, brooms, newspapers, cans of paint. In late November they will present themselves to Belgraders with their seemingly improvisational performance that is actually choreographically rehearsed to perfection. Info: www.savacentar.net

ritanski plesačko-perkusionistički ansambl STOMP predstavlja spoj pokreta i „muzike“ na nesvakidašnjim instrumentima – kutije šibica, plastične flaše, metle, novine, kante sa bojom. Krajem novembra predstaviće se Beograđanima sa svojom naizgled predstavom puke improvizacije, a zapravo do savršenstva uvežbanom koreografijom. Info: www.savacentar.net

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

I N T E R V I E W | D R . R O B E R T R I S C H , I S B D I R E C TO R

HOME IS NOT A PHYSICAL PLACE Comprising a comprehensive primary and high school on two sites, the International School of Belgrade has expanded over the years and today provides a unique learning environment for children from around the world. Here we speak to the school’s new director, Robert Risch, who has spent his life teaching and administrating in international schools and arrived in Belgrade this summer after five years as headmaster at the International School of Nagoya, Japan. Indeed, he admits: “Because of my own background of moving around and never really having a fixed home, international schools have become like a home base for me.”

ou were actually born in this city, although you only remember it through your father’s recollections. What were your first impressions this time when you returned to Belgrade? - It’s wonderful how user friendly the city is in terms of getting around and distances to get to places. I was recently invited to an Indian dance

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

presentation at the National Theatre. It was my first time driving alone in the city and I happened to come to a side street that ended on the pedestrian street, Knez Mihailova, where I’d never been before. So I got out of my car and started walking around. It was around 7.30 on a Monday evening and it was just wonderful: people strolling, listening to street musicians, having a good time…

Having worked at international schools throughout your career, would you say that they are more or less the same in terms of teaching methods and demographics? - No. Some parts of the systems are very much the same, but each school has its own character and culture. I’ve been fortunate that the ones where I’ve worked have had a similar type of mix in terms

There’s also the western-style promotion of extracurricular activities, making the school more like the centre of a community than simply a place of learning. - That’s exactly right. And of all the schools I’ve worked at this one has the strongest after-school activity programme. At the upper school level there’s a strong athletics programme, which I’ve been used to at other schools, but here there’s also a big focus on activities such as a speech & debate club, knowledge bowl, math competitions, called “MathCounts” and so on. This ensures it’s a really rich offer.

The IB Diploma is also recognised throughout Europe.

Would a top graduate of this school get into any of the world’s top universities? - The ISB Diploma is, in and of itself, equivalent to a U.S. high school diploma, which has traditionally been the requirement for North American universities and has been accepted in other places as well. We also offer the IB Diploma, which is a two-year college level course with an externally marked exam at the end. Depending on the total points gained over six courses, you can get advanced placement, or rather skip a year of college, which can be an attraction to parents financially, especially in the U.S. and the UK.

Could you tell us something about the further development of the school? Programmes are always being looked at through our strategic planning process. For example, one of the things we look at on a regular basis is the courses that we’re offering in the diploma programme. As our numbers in the high school expand we’re able to offer more choices, some of which are available online – and that’s something else we regularly assess.

Could you tell us something about the concept of educating the “whole” child? - I think that’s basically what we’ve been talking about. You mentioned the host of extracurricular activities that are usually available in international schools, and ISB does a wonderful job of providing these for our students. This is the recognition that although academics are important, it’s also important to broaden your horizons beyond that.

mArk Pullen photographs: DArimir BAnDA

The power to relate Because of my own background of moving around and never really having a fixed home, international schools have become like a home base for me – with many of our families having the same lifestyle of often moving and, therefore, home representing not a physical place, but rather a place where people have the same life experiences and backgrounds as you and to whom you can relate. of nationalities, where it’s between 25 and 30 per cent host nationals, 25 and 30 per cent North American and 40 to 50 per cent comprising other nationalities. This is a nice mix. Some international schools, on the other hand, are predominantly host national and the common language remains the local language.

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

INTERVJU: DR ROBERT RIŠ, DIREKTOR ISB ŠKOLE

DOM JE METAFIZIČKO MESTO

Beogradska internacionalna škola, koja obuhvata osnovnu i srednju školu, na dve različite lokacije, tokom vremena se proširivala i danas deci iz čitavog sveta pruža jedinstven ambijent za učenje. Razgovarali smo s novim direktorom škole Robertom Rišom, koji je svoj radni vek proveo kao nastavnik ili kao direktor međunarodnih škola širom sveta. U Beograd je stigao ovog leta, pet poslednjih godina živeo je u Japanu, kao direktor međunarodne škole u Nagoji. U razgovoru nam otkriva: „Zbog neprestanih selidbi nikada nisam imao stalni dom, tako da su međunarodne škole za mene postale istinski dom.“

i ste, zapravo, rođeni Beograđanin iako se grada sećate samo iz priča svoga oca. Kakvi su Vam utisci sada kada ste se vratili u svoj rodni grad? - Neverovatno je koliko je grad prijatan, lako je snaći se jer razdaljine nisu velike. Nedavno sam bio pozvan na Indijsko plesno veče u Narodnom pozorištu. Prvi put sam se sam vozio po gradu i desilo mi se da sam stigao do jedne bočne ulice koja izlazi na pešačku zonu Knez Mihailove – a ja tamo nikada nisam bio. I tako, izašao sam iz kola i krenuo tom ulicom. Bio je ponedeljak, oko pola osam uveče i bilo je predivno – ljudi su se šetali, slušali ulične svirače, lepo se provodili … Budući da ste tokom svoje karijere radili u internacionalnim školama, da li mislite da su one manje-više iste kad je reč o metodu nastave i sastavu ljudi? - Ne. Neki delovi sistema su veoma slični, ali svaka škola ima svoju osobenost i svoju kulturu. Imao sam sreću da škole u kojima sam radio imaju sličan tip mešavine u smislu nacionalnosti – otprilike 25 do 30 procenata bilo je iz Severne Amerike, a 40 do 50 drugih nacionalnosti. To je dobro izbalansiran odnos. Međutim, ima i međunarodnih škola koje su dominantno nacionalne i jezik koji se u njima govori je lokalni. U „zapadnjačkom“ sistemu vannastavni programi se posebno naglašavaju, pa se stiče uti-

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

sak da je škola više centar društvenih aktivnosti nego samo mesto za učenje. - Da, to je sasvim tačno. U odnosu na sve škole u kojima sam radio, ISB ima najrazvijenije vannastavne programe. U višim razredima postoje intenzivni atletski programi kakve do sada nisam sretao u školama u kojima sam radio, ali veliki naglasak se stavlja i na aktivnosti kao što su govorništvo i debatni klub, organizuju se kvizovi znanja, takmičenja iz matematike, koje zovemo „MathCounts“. Sve skupa izbor čini zaista bogatim. Da li maturanti ove škole mogu da se upišu na neki od prestižnih svetskih univerziteta? - Diploma ISB škole je ekvivalentna diplomi srednje škole u Sjedinjenim Državama, koja je uobičajen uslov za upis na univerzitete Severne Amerike, a ona se priznaje i na drugim univerzitetima u svetu. Takođe, mi nudimo IB diplomu, što je dvogodišnji koledž-program, koji se završava tzv. eksternim maturskim ispitom. U zavisnosti od ukupnog broja SNAGA SAŽIVOTA Zbog mojih neprestanih selidbi nikada nisam imao stalni dom, tako da su međunarodne škole postale moj pravi dom i sa mnogim porodicama koje se često sele i koje imaju isti životni stil delim osećanje da dom nije fizičko, već metafizičko mesto. U tom domu živim s ljudima koji imaju slično životno iskustvo i s kojima mogu da se razumem i izgradim odnose.

poena iz šest predmeta, ako imate dobar uspeh, možete preskočiti jednu godinu. To je naročito privlačno roditeljima, naravno zbog finansijskih razloga, pogotovu u SAD i Velikoj Britaniji. Diplome IB takođe se priznaju širom Evrope. Da li biste nam mogli bliže pojasniti koncept obrazovanja „celovitog“ deteta? - Upravo o tome i razgovaramo. Kao što ste pomenuli, postoji čitav niz vannastavnih aktivnosti koje su dostupne đacima u međunarodnim školama, a ISB upravo to čini za svoje đake. U osnovi ovog koncepta leži svest da iako je akademsko dostignuće važno, isto toliko je važno da deca prošire vidike izvan zadatog školskog programa. Da li biste nam mogli reći nešto više o budućem razvoju škole? - Neprestano analiziramo nastavne programe posmatrajući ih u okviru postavljenih strateških ciljeva. Na primer, jedna od stvari koju posebno analiziramo jesu nastavni sadržaji koje nudimo u diplomskom programu. Kako se broj đaka u našoj srednjoj školi stalno povećava, tako se proširuju mogućnosti da im ponudimo više izbornih predmeta, a neki od tih sadržaja su dostupni online – i to je još jedna od stavki koje neprestano procenjujemo. mArk Pullen

fotografije: DArimir BAnDA

T H E S E R B I A I N V E S T M E N T A N D E X P O R T P R O M OT I O N A G E N C Y ( S I E PA )

HEALTHY FOOD â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A CHANCE FOR SERBIA

The Serbia Investment and Export Promotion Agency (SIEPA) is organising participation of Serbian companies at the most prestigious and best-known global food fairs. Alongside the traditional markets for the domestic products such as Russia and the European Union, SIEPA has organised the appearance of domestic companies at trade fairs in Japan and South Korea. Analysing the possibilities for Serbia in the agribusiness sector, SIEPA attaches particular importance to the production of organic food and the chance it offers.

he food sector is the most important sector in any economy, as the production of food has the most direct impact on nutrition of the population and the overall economic safety of a country. Therefore, the countries that have natural predispositions for the development of agriculture should have a significant advantage over the others. It depends on them whether and to what extent they will use those advantages. According to the latest published data, the total foreign trade of Serbia last year, when it comes

to agriculture sector amounted to USD 3.7 billion, with a surplus of USD 1.3 billion. With this in mind, it can be concluded that farming is the most important economic field in our country, which is supported by the fact that the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gross domestic product accounts for about 20%. Domestic companies are increasingly taking advantage of the signed free trade agreements with Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Turkey, the European Union and CEFTA (Central European Free Trade Agreement) countries, and there is a notice-

able increase in the number of domestic companies entering the production certification process so that they could be competitive with their products and services and so that they can conquer the demanding markets of these countries. To keep pace with time and competition, we must constantly invest in new technologies, capacities, as well as marketing activities. Additionally, the orientation towards products of a higher degree of refinement with value added in total production, as well as the structure of exports, will ultimately

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result in a higher level of development of the country and increasing the value of exports. ORGANIC AGRICULTURE Due to the growing needs of the world population for food, food production has become of increasing importance around the world. A variety of agricultural machinery, fertilizers and chemicals are used in intensive production of agricultural products. At the end of 1960’s, the idea of “Going back to nature” arose, leading to what is now the basic principle of organic agriculture. In organic farming, there are now strictly defined rules that dictate the types of agricultural technical practices that can be applied. As a result of the joint actions of conscientious consumers with higher purchasing power, some supermarkets and visionary-minded agricultural producers has led to a significant increase in production, trade and consumption of organic food at the world level. Bearing all this in mind, and seen from the angle of climatic and geographical conditions, Serbia can be said to be a great destination for organic food. Serbia’s advantages are the high percentage of rural population, the intactness of a large number of arable land, but also closeness to the European Union as the main market for the sale of organic food. SERBIA ORGANICA “Serbia Organica” is the National Association for the Development of Organic Production, established with the goal of active participation and support to the development of organic production

autuMn | jesen 2012 BelGuest

in Serbia. The Association’s Mission is for organic production as agribusiness to be a reliable and competitive industry both in the domestic and foreign markets, while preserving natural resources. The largest market for organic food in the European Union is Germany, mostly because of its size, followed by France, Italy and the Scandinavian countries. A wealth of data indicates that there is an apparent chronic lack of organic food in the European Union market, which shows the Serbian food producers that they must seriously consider expanding varieties and quantities of crops producing organic food. EXHIBITIONS IN JAPAN AND SOUTH KOREA Seven Serbian exporters of fresh, frozen and dried fruits and fruit products in March of this year presented their products and services at the leading fair of the food industry in the Asia-Pacific region, “Foodex Japan 2012”. Serbia is, by the way, for the sixth consecutive year, the largest exporter of frozen raspberries in the world, and covers as much as 17% of Japanese market of raspberries. In Japanese shops you can often find frozen raspberries from Serbia and Serbian plum yogurt as one of the most popular brands in the Japanese food industry. For the first time, Serbian producers of food and drinks were presented this year at the “Seoul Food & Hotel” in South Korea, that was held in May of this year. The host country offers great opportunities for Serbian exporters since it imports much of the overall food supply on its market. The fair is

growing from year to year, and for the next fair, the fair space should be increased by a third. This makes the fair extremely attractive, with over 45,000 specialised trade fair visitors in the country that has a market of over 50 million people. FAIRS IN AMSTERDAM AND MOSCOW The “World of Private Label” Amsterdam (PLMA) International Trade Show, that was held in May this year in Amsterdam, presented eleven Serbian companies in the food industry. Serbian companies had the opportunity to meet with leading retail chains there. One of the main advantages of production of brands for retailers is the fact that the manufacturer has no marketing nor packaging costs, so the price of the product is lower than the manufacturer’s brand. In mid-September of this year, SIEPA for the seventh time organised participation of Serbian companies at the largest autumn fair of food industry in the world – “World Food Moscow”. As part of the national stand of Serbia, a total of 22 exhibitors were presented. The goal of participating in the fair is to promote and increase exports to the market of 140 million people, that satisfies 40% of its food needs from imports. Thanks to the free trade agreement, the export of Serbian food products to Russia is increasing every year (in 2011, a growth of approximately 40% was recorded), so it represents a very important export market for our country. Marija VukosaVljeVić Photographs: SIEPA

S I E PA - A G E N C I J A Z A S T R A N A U L A G A N J A I P R O M O C I J U I Z V O Z A

ZDRAVA HRANA – ŠANSA SRBIJE

Agencija za strana ulaganja i promociju izvoza Republike Srbije (SIEPA) svake godine organizuje nastupe srpskih kompanija na najprestižnijim i najpoznatijim svetskim sajmovima hrane. Uz već tradicionalna tržišta domaćih proizvoda poput Rusije i Evropske unije, SIEPA je organizovala i nastup domaćih kompanija na sajmovima u Japanu i Južnoj Koreji. Analizirajući mogućnosti Srbije u sektoru agrobiznisa, SIEPA poseban akcenat stavlja na proizvodnju organske hrane i šanse koje ona pruža.

ektor hrane najznačajniji je u svakoj privredi budući da proizvodnja hrane ima najdirektniji uticaj na prehranu stanovnika i sveukupnu ekonomsku sigurnost jedne zemlje. Zbog toga bi zemlje koje raspolažu prirodnom predispozicijom za razvoj poljoprivrede trebalo da imaju znatnu prednost nad ostalima. Na njima je da li će i koliko da ih iskoriste. Prema poslednjim podacima, ukupna spoljnotrgovinska razmena Srbije prošle godine, kada je reč o sektoru agrara, iznosila je 3,7 milijardi dolara, a ostvaren je i suficit od 1,3 milijarde dolara. Imajući to u vidu, može se zaključiti da

agroindustrija predstavlja najznačajniju privrednu oblast u našoj zemlji, čemu u prilog govori i to da u stvaranju društvenog proizvoda zemlje učestvuje sa oko 20%. Domaća preduzeća sve više koriste prednosti potpisanih sporazuma o slobodnoj trgovini sa Rusijom, Belorusijom, Kazahstanom, Turskom, zemljama EU i CEFTA, a primetna je i težnja ka povećanju broja domaćih preduzeća koja ulaze u proces sertifikacije proizvodnje kako bi svojim proizvodima i uslugama mogla da konkurišu i osvajaju zahtevna tržišta navedenih zemalja. Da bismo išli u korak sa vremenom i konkurencijom

potrebno je i konstantno ulaganje u nove tehnologije, kapacitete, te u marketinške aktivnosti. Takođe, usmerenost ka proizvodima više faze obrade i dodate vrednosti u ukupnoj proizvodnji, ali i strukturi izvoza, u krajnjem će rezultirati porastom vrednosti izvoza, ali i višim nivoom razvijenosti zemlje. ORGANSKA POLJOPRIVREDA Usled sve veće potrebe svetskog stanovništva za hranom njena proizvodnja postala je veoma intenzivna širom sveta. Mnoštvo poljoprivredne mehanizacije, veštačkog đubriva i hemijskih sred-

BelGuest JESEN | AUTUMN 2012

stava koristi se u intenzivnoj proizvodnji poljoprivrednih proizvoda. Krajem šezdesetih godina prošlog veka počela je da se rađa i ideja „Vratimo se prirodi“, koja je danas osnov i načelo organske poljoprivrede. U organskoj poljoprivredi danas su strogo definisana pravila koja nalažu propisanu upotrebu agrotehničkih mera. Rezultat zajedničkog delovanja savesnih potrošača sa višom platežnom moći, pojedinih supermarketa i vizionarski nastrojenih poljoprivrednih proizvođača primetan je u znatnom porastu proizvodnje, trgovine i potrošnje organske hrane na svetskom nivou. Imajući sve to u vidu, a prema klimatskim i geografskim uslovima, za Srbiju se može reći da je odlična destinacija za proizvodnju organske hrane. Prednosti Srbije ogledaju se u visokom procentu ruralnog stanovništva, netaknutosti velikog broja obradivih površina hemijskim sredstvima, ali i u blizini EU kao glavnog tržišta za plasman organske hrane. SERBIA ORGANICA „Serbia Organica“ je Nacionalno udruženje za razvoj organske proizvodnje, osnovano sa ciljem aktivnog učešća i podrške razvoju organske proizvodnje u Srbiji. Misija unije je da organska proizvodnja kao agrobiznis bude pouzdana i konkurentna grana kako na domaćem tako i na stranom tržištu, uz očuvanje prirodnih bogatstava. Najveće tržište organske hrane u EU je Nemačka,

autuMn | jesen 2012 BelGuest

najviše zbog svoje veličine, a zatim slede Francuska, Italija i zemlje Skandinavije. Brojni podaci ukazuju na hroničan nedostatak hrane organskog porekla na tržištu EU, što srpskim proizvođačima hrane pokazuje da moraju ozbiljno da razmisle o proširenju sortimenta i količine kultura pod organskom hranom. NASTUPI U JAPANU I JUŽNOJ KOREJI Sedam srpskih izvoznika svežeg, zаmrznutog i sušenog voća, te proizvoda od voća, u martu je svoje proizvode i usluge predstavilo na vodećem sajmu prehrambene industrije u regionu Azije i Pacifika, „Foodex Japan 2012“. Srbija je, inače, već šest godina zaredom najveći izvoznik zamrznutih malina u svetu, dok tim proizvodom pokriva čak 17% japanskog tržišta. U japanskim prodavnicama se najčešće mogu naći zamrznute maline iz Srbije i jogurt sa srpskim šljivama i to pod jednim od najpoznatijih brendova u Japanu u oblasti prehrambene industrije. Prvi put su se srpski proizvođači hrane i pića ove godine predstavili i na sajmu „Seoul Food & Hotel“ u Južnoj Koreji, održanom u maju. Zemlja domaćin pruža velike mogućnosti srpskim izvoznicima jer uvozi celokupnu ponudu hrane za svoje tržište. Sajam raste iz godine u godinu, i za narednu je najavljeno povećanje prostora za trećinu, što sajam čini izuzetno

privlačnim, sa više od 45.000 specijalizovanih sajamskih posetilaca u zemlji čije tržište ima 50.000.000 ljudi. SAJMOVI U AMSTERDAMU I MOSKVI Na sajmu robnih marki PLMA, koji je održan u maju ove godine u Amsterdamu, predstavilo se jedanaest domaćih kompanija iz oblasti prehrambene industrije. Srpske firme imale su priliku da se upoznaju sa vodećim maloprodajnim lancima. Jedna od glavnih prednosti proizvodnje robnih marki za maloprodajne lance jeste činjenica da proizvođač nema troškove marketinga i pakovanja, pa je i cena proizvoda niža u odnosu na proizvođačke marke. Sredinom septembra ove godine, SIEPA je po sedmi put organizovala nastup srpskih preduzeća na najvećem jesenjem sajmu prehrambene industrije na svetu – „World Food Moscow”. U okviru nacionalnog štanda Srbiju su predstavljala 22 izlagača. Cilj nastupa na ovom sajmu je promocija i povećanje izvoza na tržište od 140.000.000 ljudi, koje 40% svojih potreba za hranom zadovoljava iz uvoza. Zahvaljujući Sporazumu o slobodnoj trgovini, izvoz srpskih prehrambenih proizvoda u Rusiju svake godine raste (u 2011. godini zabeležen je rast od približno 40%), te ona predstavlja značajno izvozno tržište za našu zemlju. Marija VukosaVljeVić Photographs: SIEPA

SPECIAL TOURS & PROGRAMMES OF THE TOURIST ORGANISATION OF BELGRADE Year on year, alongside regular city sightseeing, the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade expands the content offered in the city, both independently and in conjunction with different partners. This summer TOB gave the Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter “new colours”, led tourists by canoe on a voyage to Kolubara and promoted kayaking on the Sava and the Danube... The Autumn offer of the special tourist programme is enriched with a new discovery – the Belgrade vineyards of Radmilovac.

POSEBNE TURE I PROGRAMI TURISTIČKE ORGANIZACIJE BEOGRADA Iz godine u godinu, uz redovna razgledanja grada, Turistička organizacija Beograda, samostalno, kao i sa različitim partnerima, proširuje sadržaje turističke ponude grada. Ovog leta, TOB je Skadarliji dao „nove boje“, vodio je turiste na kanu plovidbu Kolubarom, promovisao kajakarenje Savom i Dunavom... Jesenja ponuda posebnih turističkih programa obogaćena je jednim novim otkrićem – Beogradskim vinogorjem u Radmilovcu.

BELGRADE WINE TOUR

WINE AND FRUIT OF BELGRADE

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

Announcing the new autumn season, the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade has recently in Radmilovac promoted an unusual programme, called Belgrade wine tour. On the spacious property, this experimental school estate has vineyards, orchards, farms, apiaries, a wine cellar... This property was, seventy years ago, bequeathed to the Faculty of Agriculture by Milan Vukićević. His endowment remains to date a lively centre for the training of students, research, production of quality wines and spirits, and one of the largest “gene banks” in the region.

he field estate, stated in Article 3, after the death of my wife Radmila shall belong to the state, i.e., the Faculty of Agriculture of the University of Belgrade, for practical instruction in all branches of agriculture... This property shall be named: “The Foundation of Jevrosima, Sima and Milan Vukićević, reads the will of the donor, Mr. Milan Vukićević, who was a deputy in the assembly of the pre-war Yugoslavia. The donated property is not small – it is located in the municipality of Grocka and covers an area of about 90 hectares of farmland in the hinterland of the Danube. This whole end of mild and sunny slopes that start near Grocka and extend down to Smederevo has the vineyard tradition that dates back to Roman times. LOCAL SKY, SUN, AND INGENUITY Instruction and professional practice is conducted in Radmilovac, and the experimental school estate is at the same time a scientific research and advisory centre. Presenting the journalists all diversity of what this endowment offers, Director Saša Avramović inspiredly said: “Belgrade should be aware of this wealth and that is why we want to present the public something indigenous, something local, something created by local minds, this sky and this sun. From the standpoint of genetics, this is a very important national resource and a unique territory that keeps genofond of over 3,000 species, and this is the wealth of all of Serbia.” Striving for “sustainable development” and managing the experimental school estate, he decided to open the door wide to the public and, in collaboration with the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade and the tourist agency Master Holidays, to shape unique tourist offer of the city. IN VINO SINGIDUNUM Although Radmilovac is much more than just vineyards and a wine cellar, they certainly make for its most appealing part. “Belgrade is one of the two capital cities of Europe that has its own vineyards and cellars, and the privilege of tasting wines of

noble varieties in a wine cellar on the outskirts of the city,” reads a promotional flier of the tourist agency Master Holidays that, under the title In Vino Singidunum, offers a programme of touring the experimental school estate and tasting nine types of wines produced exclusively from grapes grown on this estate. In anticipation of future tourists, we took a walk through the vast vineyards of Radmilovac, accompanied by an enologist, who showed us about twenty or so, out of more than 350, varieties of grapes that are grown here. Then he left us to his young colleague, technologist and manager of the manufacturing sector in Radmilovac. Convincingly, and with a special kind of commitment, Sonja Davidović presented us with a full range of products – including different red and white wines, rose wine, cognac, numerous types of fruit brandies, honey brandy, bitter liquor... She showed us a series of new “experimental” and creative products, such as tomato jam spiced with cinnamon and raisins and sweetened with white seedless grape. The tour through the manufacturing facility of Radmilovac finished in the wine archives where bottles of all previous harvests are stored. STUDENTS’ AND RECTOR’S WINE The main presentation of the wine with geographic origin Belgrade for media representatives was occasioned in the tasting hall. We tasted the wine made in honour of academics – called “Students’ Wine”, then “The Rector’s Burgundy,” and “Mystery”, named after a figurine from a nearby prehistoric site of Vinča. While eating goat cheese and toasted bread, with every sip of wine, we first became aware, and then convinced that Radmilovac is really a very important place on the tourist map of Belgrade. At the exit from the room, there was another “exhibition of fruit” from this rich property waiting for us. But the story does not end there – we were taken over by Professor Zoran Marković from the Centre for Fisheries and Applied Hydrobiology, who showed us the experimental ponds. The story about this pond and the scientific projects of the Department of Fisheries deserves

INFO: Master Holidays tel:+381 11 32 82676 www.master.holidays.com

special report of its own. The first visits of the audience Radmilovac were organised within the European Heritage Days, as this year’s topic was “Donations and Endowments.” As it is often forgotten, it is important that we remember that all this wealth would not exist without the vision and generosity of the donor who bequeathed his estate. milenA mihAlJčić photographs: ĐorĐe rusić, toB

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

VINO I VOĆE BEOGRADA Najavljujući novu jesenju sezonu, Turistička organizacija Beograda je nedavno u Radmilovcu promovisala nesvakidašnji program pod nazivom Beogradska vinska tura. Na prostranom imanju ovog oglednog dobra nalaze se zasadi vinograda, voćnjaci, ribnjaci, pčelinjaci, vinski podrum… Svoj posed je pre sedamdeset godina Poljoprivrednom fakultetu zaveštao Milan Vukićević. Njegova zadužbina danas je jedan živ centar za obuku studenata, istraživanja, proizvodnju kvalitetnih vina i rakija i jedna od najvećih “banki gena” u regionu.

oljsko imanje, navedeno pod tačkom 3, posle smrti moje žene Radmile ima da pripadne državi, odnosno Poljoprivrednom fakultetu Beogradskog univerziteta, za praktičnu nastavu u svim granama poljoprivrede… Ovo imanje nosiće ime: „Zadužbina Jevrosime, Sime i Milana Vukićevića”, zapisano je u testamentu darodavca, gospodina Milana Vukićevića, inače narodnog poslanika u skupštini predratne Jugoslavije. Darovano imanje nije malo – nalazi na teritoriji opštine Grocka i prostire se na oko 90 hektara plodne zemlje u samom zaleđu Dunava. Čitav ovaj kraj blagih i osunčanih padina koji

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

počinje kod Grocke i prostire se sve do Smedereva ima vinogradarsku tradiciju koja seže još u doba Starog Rima. DOMAĆA PAMET, NEBO I SUNCE U Radmilovcu se izvodi nastava i stručna praksa, ogledno dobro je istovremeno i naučno - istraživački i savetodavni centar. Predstavljajući novinarima svu raznolikost i raspon sadržaja zadužbine, direktor Saša Avramović nadahnuto je rekao: „Beograd treba da bude svestan ovog bogatstva i zato želimo javnosti da predstavimo nešto autohtono, nešto domaće, nešto što je iznedrila ova pamet, ovo nebo i ovo sunce. Sa aspekta genetike ovo je izuzetno

važan nacionalni resurs, odnosno jedinstvena teritorija na kojoj se čuva biljni genofond od preko 3000 vrsta, a to je i bogatstvo čitave Srbije “. Težeći „odživom razvoju” rukovodeći tim oglednog dobra odlučio je da širom otvori vrata javnosti i, u saradnji s Turističkom organizacijom Beograda i turističkom agencijoma Master Holidays, oblikuje jedinstvenu turističku ponudu grada. IN VINO SINGIDUNUM Iako je Radmilovac mnogo više od vinograda i vinskog podruma, to je svakako njegov najprivlačniji turistički sadržaj. „Beograd je jedan od dva glavna grada Evrope koji ima svoje vinograde i podrume,

kao i privilegiju da se u vinskom podrumu na obodu grada mogu degustirati vina plemenitih sorti”, napisano je u promotivnom flajeru agencije Master Holidays koja, pod naslovom In Vino Singidunum, nudi program obilaska oglednog dobra i degustaciju devet vrsti vina koje se proizvode isključivo od grožđa koja se uzgaja na samom imanju . Kao prethodnica budućim turistima, prošetali smo kroz prostrane radmilovačke vinograde u pratnji enologa, koji nam je pokazao dvadesetak, od preko 350 sorti vinove loze koje se ovde uzgajaju. Potom nas je prepustio mladoj koleginici, tehnologu i rukovodiocu proizvodnog sektora Radmilovca. Ubedljivo i s jednom naročitom vrstom posvećenosti, Sonja Davidović nam je predstavila čitavu paletu svojih proizvoda - a to su različita crna i beli vina, roze, vinjak, brojne vrste voćnih rakija, medovača, gorki

liker... Pokazala nam je i niz novih „eksperimentalnih” i kretivnih proizvoda poput džema od paradajza začinjenog cimetom i suvim grožđem i slatka od besemenog belog grožđa. Tura kroz proizvodni pogon Radmilovca završila sa u vinskom arhivu u kome su pohranjene boce svih dosadašnjih berbi. STUDENTSKO I REKTORSKO VINO U degustacionoj sali je za predstavnike medija priređeno glavno predstavljanje vina s geografskim pečatom Beograda. Kušali smo vino napravljeno u čast akademaca – koje se zove „Studentsko”, potom „Rektorsko, burgundac „Misterija”, roze nazvan po figurini sa obližnjeg praistorijskog lokaliteta Vinča... Uz kozji „serdarski sir” i prepečen hleb, sa svakim gutljajem vina, postali smo prvo svesni, a potom i ubeđeni da je Radmilovac zaista jedno

izuzetno mesto na turističkoj karti Beograda. Na izlazu iz sala sačekala nas je još i izložba voća sa ovog prebogatog imanja. Ali, tu priči nije kraj, preuzeo nas je profesor dr Zoran Marković iz Centra za ribarstvo i primenjenu hidrobiologiju i odveo u obilazak oglednog ribnjaka. Priča o ovom ribnjaku i naučnim projektima katedre za ribarstvo zaslužuje jednu posebnu reportažu. Prve posete publike Radmilovcu organizovane su u okviru Dana evropske baštine, budući da je ovogodišnja tema bila „Darivanje i zadužbinarstvo“. Skloni zaboravljanju, važno je da se podsetimo da svog ovog bogatstva ne bi bilo bez vizije i velikodušnosti zadužbinara. milenA mihAlJčić Fotografije: ĐorĐe rusić, toB

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

N E W

C O L O U R S

O F

S K A D A R L I J A

PERIOD COSTUMES ON A COBBLESTONE STREET

This year’s tourist season in Skadarlija, the bohemian quarter of Belgrade, was marked by live programmes in front of the house of Djura Jakšić and the Skadarlija bazaar. The atmosphere of the past was conjured by young couples dressed up in costumes from the early 20th century and a street drummer who announced the news and rules of good conduct from the old times. With live programmes, the guests of Belgrade, as well as citizens of Belgrade could even better and more deeply feel the spirit and charm of this unique street.

fter the demolition of the Dardanelle (Dardaneli) Inn in 1901, which stood on the site of today’s National Theatre, actors, writers, poets, painters and journalists moved into the taverns of Skadarlija, many of whom also lived in this street. It is thanks precisely to them that this street became the centre of bohemian life in Belgrade. In the late 19 th century, there were 14 pubs in this neighbourhood, which was advertised in a guide book through Belgrade from 1909, when barely 90,000 citizens lived in the Serbian capital. Reconstruction of Skadarlija began in late seventies of the last century. The first thing that today’s visitors see at the entrance into the street are the signposts to the fraternal bohemian neighbourhoods of Grinzing in Vienna, Ilot Sacré in Brussels, Montmartre in Paris, Debar-Mala in Skopje, Athenian Plak, the Arbat in Moscow and Baš-Čaršija in

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

Sarajevo. The rule that Skadarlija is a mustsee if you want to get to know Belgrade is true today as well. SKADARLIJA BAZAAR AND THE ROSE SELLER Graffiti artists from the group “Belgradisation of Belgrade” this season painted the craft stalls with the symbols of Skadarlija. This colourful “open-air market” set at the bottom of the street exhibUNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE CITY Programmes in Skadarlija are held under the auspices of the City of Belgrade, and are organised by the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade which, in cooperation and coordination with “Belgradisation Belgrade”, the Municipality of Stari Grad and utility companies, is improving the tourist offerings of this unique street of Belgrade year-in and year-out.

its exquisite handicrafts and souvenirs, old craft, antiques, honey, handmade soaps and even homemade brandy. A theatre piece that deals with Skadarlija as a treasury of secrets and diversity from the life of our cultural and bohemian elite was performed as a part of the summer programme. The play “A Girl from Skadarlija” (“Skadarlijka”) was made based on the text by Isidora Bjelica and materials from the book “Romantic Bohemian Skadarlija” by Kosta Dimitrijević. The basis of the story is the neighbourhood’s history, interrupted by humorous confessions of a rose seller named Ruža (Rose). She inherited her job from her mother, grandmother and great-grandmother and learned many of secrets, not only of the locals, but also of the world artists who enjoyed themselves in the taverns of Skadarlija. Ruža is played by actress Ljiljana Jakšić. BelGuest Photographs: ĐorĐe rusić, toB

KALDRMA ODEVENA U KOSTIM

Ovogodišnja turistička sezona u Skadarliji, boemskom kvartu Beograda, protekla je u znaku živih programa ispred kuće Đure Jakšića i skadarlijskog bazara. Atmosferu iz starina dočaravali su mladi parovi obučeni u građanske kostime s početka 20. veka i dobošar koji je ulicom „pronosio glas“ o pravilima lepog ophođenja stare epohe. Uz žive programe, gosti Beograda i sami Beograđani mogli su još bolje i dublje da osete duh i šarm ove jedinstvene ulice.

osle rušenja kafane „Dardaneli“, 1901. godine, koja se nalazila na mestu današnjeg Narodnog pozorišta, u skadarlijske kafane prelaze glumci, književnici i pesnici, slikari i novinari. Ona je upravo zahvaljujući njima postala središte boemskog života Beograda. Krajem 19. veka u tom kvartu bilo je 14 kafana, što je reklamirano u Vodiču kroz Beograd iz 1909. godine, kada je u srpskoj prestonici živelo jedva 90.000 stanovnika. KO NIJE BIO U SKADARLIJI NIJE NI BIO U BEOGRADU Preuređenje Skadarlije počelo je krajem sedamdesetih godina. Prvo što današnji posetioci ugledaju na ulazu u ulicu jesu putokazi ka bratskim boemskim četvrtima – bečkom Grincingu, briselskom Ilo Sakreu, pariskom Monmartru, skopskoj Debar-mali, atinskoj Plaki, moskovskom Starom Arbatu i sarajevskoj Baščaršiji. Poštujući domaće pravilo da „ko nije bio u Skadarliji nije

ni bio u Beogradu“, skadarlijske kafane posetile su mnoge velike ličnosti sveta. Pravilo da je poseta Skadarliji obavezan sastojak upoznavanja s Beogradom važi i danas. SKADARLIJSKI BAZAR I PRODAVAČICA RUŽA Umetnici grafita Beogradizacije Beograda su ove sezone oslikali zanatske tezge simbolima Skadarlije. Na ovoj živopisnoj „pijaci na otvorenom“, postavljenoj u donjem delu ulice, izlagane POD POKROVITELJSTVOM GRADA Programi u Skadarliji održavaju se pod pokroviteljstvom Grada Beograda, a organizator je Turistička organizacija Beograda, koja, u saradnji sa Beogradizacijom Beograda, Opštinom Stari grad i komunalnim preduzećima, iz godine u godinu unapređuje turističku ponudu ove jedinstvene beogradske ulice.

su probrane rukotvorine i suveniri, proizvodi starih zanata, antikviteti, med, ručno rađeni sapuni, domaće rakije... Jedini pozorišni komad koji se bavi Skadarlijom kao riznicom tajni i najraznovrsnijih zbivanja iz života naše kulturne boemske elite izvedena je okviru letnjeg programa. Predstava „Skadarlijka“ rađena je po tekstu Isidore Bjelice i materijalu iz knjige „Romantično boemska Skadarlija“ Koste Dimitrijevića. Glavnu potku čini priča o istoriji kvarta, koju prekida duhovita ispovest prodavačice ruža, koja se i zove Ruža. Ona je svoj zanat nasledila od majke, bake i prabake i tako saznala za mnoge tajne naših, ali i svetskih umetnika koji su se provodili u skadarlijskim kafanama. Ulogu Ruže tumači glumica Ljiljana Jakšić. BelGuest Fotografije: ĐorĐe

rusić, toB

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

SAVA BRIDGES AND DANUBE RAINFOREST

The Tourist Organisation of Belgrade this summer promoted new sightseeing programmes from the rivers. They offer two attractive tours entitled “Belgrade Kayaking Adventures” designed and organised by the association Wild Serbia. The sailing programme called “Six Bridges of the Sava River” provides interesting perspectives on Belgrade bridges and the life on the river, while the programme “Kayaking Around the War Island” reveals the unique nature of the unique river island near the urban centre of Belgrade.

here is a parallel Belgrade that is not hot, dirty and noisy. A quiet Belgrade without stressful crowds, red lights, and anxious pedestrians with their daily concerns. People can delight in the greenery of the Big War Island, the blueness of the two rivers, the shade of the bridges, and in the looks of passers-by on the Belgrade quays. All problems disappear and get lost in the depths, while on the surface float carefree wild ducks, river flora and the everpresent rubbish, a silent witness of a night well passed. That’s how BelGuest reporter Dragana Barjaktarević described her experience of the city after several hours of kayaking on the Sava and the Danube. A LOOK AT THE GIANTS The first tour of the “Six Bridges on the Sava River” starts from the Sava quay and moves downstream to the confluence, passing under the newly built magnificent bridge at Ada, the New and the Old railway bridges, the Gazela bridge, the Old Sava bridge and Branko’s bridge. Alongside the bridges, the “main protagonists” of this story, the kayakers, get to know

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

the true “characters” of life on the river – the wellknown night clubs and colourful rafts, and towards the end, with the final strokes of the oars, they are rewarded with one of the most beautiful views of the Belgrade fortress and the Old Town. The boating ends on the barge Barakuda, where the second tour called “Kayaking around the War Island – a jungle in the heart of Belgrade” begins. A RAINFOREST IN AN URBAN ENVIRONMENT Military historians could tell many interesting stories about battles and military operations that took place from on and around the Great War Island. Its strategic importance for military operations is indicated by its main toponyms today – Great and Small Galijaš (in Serbian, Galijaš stands for galley rower) – the places where war galleys and ships hid and grouped. The War Island today is a protected natural area, which makes this kayaking adventure really special. The tour is conceived so as to give you an experience of true and isolated wilderness in such close proximity to an ultra-urban environment. Kayakers go around the War

Island, relax on the sandy beach of Lido and at the Great Galijaš canal. WATER THAT REMEMBERS “The programmes last from two to four hours and are meant for guests from abroad, as well as for citizens of Belgrade who want to see their city from a different perspective and in a different setting. To be involved in kayaking you do not need prior experience or be in special physical shape,” according to the organisers from the Association of Wild Serbia. Scientists studying the properties of water came to learn that it loves Mozart, that it takes well to praise and that it has a great memory. If it is true that water remembers, then this summer Belgrade rivers could commit into their currents the good energy and excitement of new adventurers, our reporter summarised after a thrilling kayaking experience on Belgrade rivers. BeLGuest

Photographs: WILD seRBIA

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MOSTOVI NA SAVI I PRAŠUMA NA DUNAVU

INFO: Wild Serbia www.wildserbia.com Tourist Organisation of Belgrade www. tob.rs

Turistička organizacija Beograda je ovog leta promovisala nove programe razgledanja grada sa reka. Reč je o dve atraktivne ture pod nazivom Beogradske kajak avanture. koje je osmislila i organiziovala asocijacija Wild Serbia. Plovidba nazvana „Šest mostova Save“, pruža zanimljive poglede na beogradske mostove i život na reci, dok „Kajaking oko Ratnog ostrva“ otkriva raskošnu prirodu jedinstvene rečne ade nadomak urbanog jezgra Beograda.

ostoji jedan paralelni Beograd, koji nije znojav, garav i glasan. U njemu nema buke, zamorne gužve, crvenih semafora, nervoznih prolaznika i njihovih briga. Baškari se u zelenilu Ratnog ostrva, plavetnilu dve reke, senkama mostova i pogledima šetača sa beogradskih kejeva. Svi problemi tu tonu i gube se u dubini, dok na površini bezbrižno plutaju divlje patke, rečna flora i najuporniji otpad, kao nemili svedok uspelog noćnog provoda, zapisala je reporterka BelGuest-a Dragana Barjaktarević svoj doživljaj grada posle višesatnog kajakarenja Savom i Dunavom. POGLED NA GOROSTASE Prva tura „Šest mostova Save“ polazi sa Savskog keja i kreće se nizvodno ka Ušću, prolazeći ispod „ špalira” koji čine nedavno izgrađen velelepni Most na Adi, Novi i Stari železnički most, most Gazela, Stari savski most i Brankov most. Uz mostove

kao „glavne junake” ove priče, kajakaši upoznaju i „epozodne likove” života na reci - poznate noćne klubove i živopisne splavove, a u završnim zaveslajima, nadomak cilja, nagrađeni su i jednim od najlepših pogleda na Beogradsku tvrđavu i staro jezgro grada. Plovidba se završava na splavu Barakuda, sa kojeg kreće druga tura pod nazivom „Kajaking oko Ratnog ostrva – džungla u srcu Beograda“ . PRAŠUMA SA URBANIM OKRUŽENJEM Vojni istoričari bi mogli da ispričaju mnoštvo zanimljivih priča o bitkama i ratnim dejstvima koja su se vodila sa Ratnog ostrva i oko njega. O njegovom značaju za vojne operacije govori ne samo ime ostrva već i njegovi glavni toponimi – Veliki i Mali Galijaš – mesta gde su se skrivale i grupisale ratne galije i lađe. Ratno ostrvo je danas zaštićeno prirodno dobro i utoliko je ova kajak avantura zais-

ta posebna – osmišljena je da vam pruži doživljaj istinske i izolovane divljine koja se blisko dodiruje sa ultra urbanim okruženjem. VODA KOJA PAMTI „Programi traju od dva do četiri sata i predviđeni su za goste iz inostranstva, kao i za Beograđane koji žele da svoj grad vide iz nekog drugog ugla i u drugačijem ambijentu”, kažu organizatori iz udruženja Wild Serbia. Naučnici su, proučavajući svojstva vode, došli do saznanja da ona voli Mocarta, prijaju joj pohvale i ima sjajnu memoriju. Pa ako je istina da voda pamti, onda su ovog leta beogradske reke u svoj tok mogle da upišu dobru energiju i oduševljenje nekih novih avanturista. BeLGuest Fotografije: WILD seRBIA

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

INFO: Club Ded Obren www.kanuavanture.com Tourist Organisation of Belgrade www. tob.rs Glob Metropoliten Tours www.metropoliten.com

AN INDIAN VILLAGE ON THE KOLUBARA RIVER

The programme called “Canoe Adventures on the Kolubara River” was designed by Zoran Dejanović, owner and founder of the club “Ded Obren”. In cooperation with the travel agency “Glob Metropoliten Tours” and with the promotional support of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, tourists in canoes this summer set sail from the camp on small Indian-style canoes. The Kolubara River premiered on the Belgrade tourism scene and it received a warm applause.

oran Dejanović is a man who claims that he is persistent in his attempt to live in harmony with nature and that, in turn, nature gives back in abundance. He unselfishly wants to share with others the gifts that he receives. He calls himself Ded Obren and that’s how he named his canoing club. To have the club set up, he brought all the equipment from Germany. He is in love with the Kolubara, a curved river near Obrenovac that passes through the beautiful landscapes and turns to rapids in its last kilometres before flowing into the Sava River. Zoran Dejanović eagerly wishes that this kind of adventure tourism wins fans in our country, but also hopes to attract foreign tourists. RELAXING ADRENALINE “Already at the first encounter with this place, one feels the mysticism of space where the undisputed ruler is nature itself. Along the shore of the river there are a couple of tents in the style of Indian teepees, and the view of the canoes in the

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

water immediately raises your adrenaline levels. However, even for that initial excitement there is an ideal counterbalance – between the trees on the shore, there are sets of swings for relaxing. After relaxing there is a half an hour session of mandatory training, which, as we witnessed, is sufficient for all those who ride in the canoe for the first time,” according to BelGuest reporter Sonja Stojmenović “After a somewhat clumsy start, with the technique we had mastered just before sailing, we slowly set off on the Kolubara River. Only a few hundred metres further, the river gained our full confidence. We are stopped to admire the scenes that surrounded us in this nearly pristine nature. Much of the beauty of the Kolubara River is yet to be discovered. “ ACT TWO – AN ETHNO AMBIENCE Kayaking is followed by lunch in the same green ambiance of the Kolubara River. The boat restaurant is called “Barum Barum” and

is located close to the camp. Along with the pleasant surroundings, ethno ambience and live rock, pop and fado music, the restaurant also boasts an impressive range of international cuisine. However, at “Barum Barum” the greatest attention is given to the fish dishes prepared by superb gourmet chefs. It is their fish that has garnered them fame and they have regular guests from Belgrade. The spirit of adventure, a successful mix of recreation and beautiful nature brought many hikers to the club “Ded Obren” this summer. This pioneering offer was supported by the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade as part of a separate project to improve tourism in Belgrade’s outskirt municipalities. Support also came from the Municipality of Obrenovac, and this offer as well as the complete tourist package, was put together by the agency “Glob Metropolitan Tours”. BeLGuest photographs: ĐORĐe RusIĆ, tOB

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INDIJANSKO SEOCE NA KOLUBARI

Program pod nazivom„Kanu avanture na reci Kolubari” osmislio je Zoran Dejanović, vlasnik i osnivač kluba „Ded Obren“. U saradnji sa turističkom agencijom „Glob Metropoliten Tours” i uz promotivnu podršku Turističke organizacije Beograda ovog leta su iz kampa s malim indijanskim vigvamima isplovljavali turisti u kanuima. Reka Kolubara se premjerno predstavila na turističkoj pozornici Beograda. I dobila otvoreni aplauz.

oran Dejanović je čovek koji kaže da je uporan u svom pokušaju da živi u skladu s prirodom i da ga priroda zauzvrat bogato daruje. Darove koje dobija želi nesebično da deli s drugima. Sebe je nazvao Ded Obren, a tako je nazvao i svoj kanu klub. Da bi utemeljio klub, svu neophodnu opremu sam je dopremio iz Nemačke. Zaljubljen je u Kolubaru, vijagavu reku koja, baš tu kod Obrenovca, protiče kroz lepe krajolike i „trči” svoje poslednje kilometre pred uviranje u reku Savu. Zoran Dejanović žarko želi da ovaj vid avanturističkog turizma osvoji poklonike u našoj zemlji i da privuče strane turiste. ADRENALIN KOJI OPUŠTA “Već pri prvom susretu s ovim mestom oseća se mistika prostora u kojem je neprikosnoveni vladar priroda sama. Uz obalu reke podignuto je par šatora, nalik indijanskim, a sam pogled na kanue na vodi odmah vam podiže nivo

adrenalina. Međutim, i za to početno uzbuđenje smišljena je idealna protivteža - između drveća na obali postavljene su ljuljaške za opuštanje. Tek kada se opustite, počinje obavezna polučasovna obuka, koja je, kako smo se uverili, sasvim dovoljna za sve one koji se po prvi put voze kanuom,” zapisala je svoje utiske reporteka BelGuest-a Sonja Stojmenović. “Nakon pomalo nespretnog početka, uz tehniku koju smo savladali pred samu plovidbu, lagano smo se otisnuli Kolubarom. Posle samo par stotina metara, reka je pridobila naše puno poverenje. Često smo zastajali kako bismo se divili prizorima koji nas okružuju u ovoj skoro netaknutoj prirodi. Kolubara je reka koju tek treba otkrivati.” DRUGI ČIN - U ETNO AMBIJENTU Posle kajakarenja, sledi ručak u istom zelenom ambijentu reke Kolubare. Restoran na brodu se zove “Barum Barum” i nalazi se nadomak

samog kampa. Ovaj restoran, pored ušuškanog okruženja, prijatnog etno ambijenta, žive rock, pop i fado muzike može da se pohvali i odličnom ponudom internacionalne kuhinje. Ipak, najveću pažnu “Barum Barum” poklanja ribljim specijalitetima koje pripremaju vrsni gastronomi. Po tome su postali čuveni i zato imaju i redovne goste iz Beograda. Dah avanturizma, uspeli spoj rekreacije i lepe prirode doveo je ovog leta u klub Ded Obren mnoge izletnike. Podršku ovom pionirskom sadržaju pružla je Turistička organizacija Beograda u okviru posebnog projekta unapređenja turizma rubnih beogradskih opština. Podršku je pružila i opština Obrenovac, a ponudu je, kao kompletan turistički proizvod oblikovala agencija Glob Metropoliten Tours. BeLGuest fotografije: ĐORĐe RusIĆ, tOB

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

photo: Branko Jovanović

elcome to Belgrade! On these pages we present to you the regular tourist sightseeing programme of Belgrade and its surroundings. You can get to know the city by walking or riding tour buses, minibuses or the tram system. The city rivers’ sightseeing programme represents a special tourist offer. From these offers you can opt for special cultural-historical tours and programmes that will acquaint you with interesting segments of the tradition of Belgrade. The offer also includes day trips and excursions in the vicinity of Belgrade. Visit the website and information centres of the Tourism Organisation of Belgrade for more detailed information and to make reservations. www.tob.co.rs

AUTUMN | JESEN 2012 BelGuest

obrodošli u Beograd! Na ovim stranicama predstavljamo vam redovne programe turističkih razgledanja Beograda i njegove okoline. Grad možete upoznati šetajući, vozeći se turističkim autobisima, minibusevima ili tramvajem. Posebnu ponudu čini program razgedanja grada s reka. Iz ove ponude možete odabrati specijalne kulturnoistorijske ture i programe koji će vas upoznati sa zanimljivim segmentima tradicije Beograda. U ponudi su jednodnevne ture i izleti u blizni Beograda. Posetite internet stranice Turističke organizacije Beograda i Informativne centre za detaljne informacije i rezervacije. www.tob.co.rs

TAKING A STROLL THROUGH BELGRADE ŠETNJE BE0GRADOM

Departure: each Saturday at 6pm in front of the Zemun Post Office Building ( Language: Serbian-English Duration: 90 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

STARI ZEMUN

Zemun svojim kulturno-istorijskim spomenicima i tradicionalnom gostoljubivošću prima mnogobrojne posetioce koji uživaju u nacionalnoj kuhinji i prisnoj atmosferi njegovih restorana. Maršruta: Magistratski trg, Gospodska ulica, Opera Medlenianum,Livnica Pantelic, Karamatina (Karamatina kuća), Gardoš, Sinđelićeva, Njegoševa (Crkva Svetog Nikole), Zemunski kej, Stara kapetanija i Stara carinarnica. Polazak: svake subote u 18h, ispred zgrade Zemunske pošte Jezik: srpski-engleski Trajanje: 90 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 i TIC Zemun, tel. 2192 093

A STROLL THROUGH DOWNTOWN BELGRADE AND BELGRADE FORTRESS

Through this tour you will get to know the city centre, Belgrade Fortress and the largest green belt in Belgrade, Kalemegdan Park. Route: Albania Palace, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova St., Kralja Petra I St. (National Bank of Serbia, Cafe ”?” – Znak pitanja, Saborna cathedral Church, the Patriarchal Court, Princess Ljubica’s Residence, Pariska St., Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade Fortress (Upper Town) and the Cvijeta Zuzorić Artistic Pavilion. Departure: each Saturday in front of Albania Palace (minimum 5 persons) Language: Serbian (at 11:00) and English (at 13:00) Duration: 120 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Note: The tour depends on the weather

ŠETNJA KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Na ovoj turi upoznaćete uže jezgro grada, Beogradsku tvrđavu i najveći zeleni pojas Beograda - park Kalemegdan. Maršruta : Palata Albanija, Trg republike, Knez Mihailova, Ulica kralja Petra (Narodna banka Srbije, Kafana ?), Saborna crkva, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak kneginje Ljubice, Pariska ulica, park Kalemegdan, Beogradska tvrđava (Gornji grad), umetnički paviljon Cvijeta Zuzorić. Polazak: svake subote ispred Palate Albanija Jezik: srpki (u 11h) i engleski (u 13h) Trajanje: 120 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Napomena: Polazak zavisi od vremenskih prilika

OLD ZEMUN

Zemun, with its cultural and historical monuments and traditional hospitality, receives numerous visitors who enjoy the national cuisine and intimate ambience of its numerous restaurants. Route: Old City Hall, Gospodska Street, Madlenianum Theatre, Pantelić Foundry, Karamatina (Karamata’s House), Gardoš, Sinđelićeva Street, Njegoševa (Church of St. Nicholas), Zemun Promenade, Old Harbour Master’s and Old Customs House

AUDIO GUIDE THROUGH BELGRADE FORTRESS

Since early spring 2011 visitors have been able to meet the Belgrade Fortress on their own, with the help of an audio guide. The guide is available in several languages – Serbian, English, French, Russian, Spanish and German. During a 90-minute story, visitors can tour 39 spots within the Belgrade Fortress. Along with the audio device, the visitor will receive a map marking all relevant pointsof interest. The audio guide can be hired in the outer part of Stambol Gate (near the basketball courts of Red Star and Partizan) at a price of 300 dinars every day from 10am to 6pm. You need to produce a personal ID document to hire the devide, while there are also devices adjusted for persons with impaired hearing.

AUDIO VODIČ KROZ BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Od početka proleća 2011. godine Beogradsku tvrđavu možete upoznati samostalno uz pomoć audio vodiča. Vodič je dostupan na šest jezika - srpskom engleskom, francuskom, ruskom, španskom i nemačkom. Za 90 minuta, koliko je ukupno traje priča, posetioci mogu obići 39 tačaka na Beogradskoj tvrđavi. Uz aparat, posetilac dobija i mapu na kojoj su ucrtane tačke o kojima postoje komentari. Audio vodič se iznajmljuje u spoljašnjoj Stambol kapiji (kod košarkaških terena Zvezde i Partizana) po ceni od 300 dinara, svakog dana od 10.00 do 18.00 sati. Za iznajmljivanje aparata potreban je neki lični dokument, a postoje i aparati prilagođeni osobama sa oštećenim sluhom

BelGuest JESEN | AUTUMN 2012

SPECIAL CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL TOURS POSEBNE KULTURNO ISTORIJSKE TURE ROYAL PALACES

The palace complex of the Karađorđević Dynasty in Dedinje includes the Royal Palace and the White Palace. In addition to these two magnificent mansions and the park, visitors, accompanied by a special tour guide, will also visit the chapel dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle, who is the patron saint of the Royal Family. Info: www.kraljevina.org Departure: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Saturday and Sunday from 9th April to 31st October in two regular time slots Duration: two-hour guided tour Bookings: The entry ticket includes a round trip transfer tourist bus starting from Nikola Pasic Square. There is also the possibility to organise group tours

during weekdays by previous appointment. For all information and reservations visitors must visit the Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 011 3281 859. Groups are limited to a maximum of 50 persons. Schools, students and pensioners’ associations interested in visiting the Royal Compound should call the Office of HRH Crown Prince Alexander directly on 011/306-4014 or email: a.radovanovic@dvor.rs

RAZGLEDANJE KRALJEVSKIH DVOROVA

Dvorski kompleks dinastije Karađorđević na Dedinju sastoji se od Kraljevskog i Belog dvora. Pored dva velelepna dvorska zdanja i parka, posetioci, uz pratnju profesionalnih turističkih vodiča, obilaze i dvorsku kapelu posvećenu Sv. Andreju Prvozvanom, zaštitniku kraljevske porodice. Info: www.kraljevina.org Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, svake subote i nedelje od 9. aprila do 31. oktobra. Trajanje: 120 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Prijave: Karta uključuje povratni transfer na Trg Nikole Pašića. Postoji mogućnost organizovnja grupnih poseta dvoru radnim danima, koje se prethodno moraju zakazati. Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859. Maksimalan broj turista u grupnom razgledanju je pedeset osoba. Škole, studenti i penzioneri zainteresovani za grupnu posetu dvoru treba da se najave kancelariji NjKV Princa Aleksandara direktno na broj 011/306-4014 i putem emaila: a.radovanovic@dvor.rs

BELGRADE TROUGH CITY MUSEUM(S)

Walking through a city is the best way to feel its rhythm. For that reason we suggest you to turn this tour into a stroll during which you can visit four museums: Princess Ljubica’s Residence, the Museum of Paja Jovanović, the Museum of Ivo Andrić and the Museum of Jovan Cvijić. Tickets for the Four Museums Tour programme cost a total of 200 dinars and can be purchased at the ticket offices of any of the museums included. Information: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

KROZ MUZEJ/E/ GRADA BEOGRADA

Najlepši način da se upozna grad, njegov duh, jeste proći kroz njega peške. Zato predlažemo da obilazak Beograda kroz muzej(e) grada Beograda bude lagana šetnja tokom koje mogu da se obiđu 4 muzeja: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej Paje Jovanovića, Muzej Ive Andrića i Muzej Jovana Cvijića. Ulaznica za program obilaska 4 muzeja je 200,00 dinara i može se kupiti na biletarnicama svakog od pomenutih muzeja. Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

STROLL THROUGH ANCIENT ROMAN SINGIDUNUM

The remains of the once powerful Ancient Roman city of Singidunum, built in the 1st century AD, are found on the site of the current city. There are only a few Ancient Roman monuments and those that have not been destroyed lie beneath the modern city. Under our feet, from Republic Square to Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park, are most probably Roman lamps, ceramic dishes, remains of fireplaces, barracks of legionary fortresses, trenches, furnaces, Roman tombs and rampart traces. Route: Republic Square, Vasina St., Student Square, plateau in front of the Faculty of Philosophy, Uzun Mirkova St., Belgrade Fortress (Gallery of Belgrade

AUTUMN | JESEN 2012 BelGuest

Fortress, plateau in front of the Victor Monument (overlooking the Southern rampart), Lapidarium beside the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments of the City of Belgrade, Kalemegdan Park, The Old Gunpowder Depot), the Library of the City of Belgrade (Roman Hall), Knez Mihailova St., Čika Ljubina St. and Republic Square. Departure: Saturdays at 11am (serbian language) & 1pm (english language), in front of the Prince Mihailo Monument Language: Serbian-English Duration: 120 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Note: The tour depends on the weather

ŠETNJA KROZ ANTIČKI SINGIDUNUM

Današnji Beograd počiva na ostacima nekada moćnog antičkog Singidunuma koji su sagradili Rimljani u 1. veku nove ere. Antičkih spomenika je malo, a oni koji nisu uništeni leže ispod modernog grada. Pod našim stopama, na pravcu od Trga Republike do Beogradske tvrđave i parka Kalemegdan, verovatno se nalaze rimske lampe, keramičke posude, ostaci ognjišta, legionarske barake, rovovi, peći, rimski grobovi i trase bedema. Maršruta: Trg republike, Vasina ulica, Studentski trg, plato ispred Filozofskog fakulteta, Uzun Mirkova, Beogradska tvrđava (Galerija Beogradske tvrđave, plato kod Spomenika pobedniku (pogled na Južni bedem), lapidarijum pored Zavoda za zaštitu spomenika kulture grada Beograda, park Kalemegdan, Veliki bartni magacin, Biblioteka grada Beograda ( Rimska dvorana), Knez Mihailova, Čika Ljubina ulica, Trg republike. Polazak: subotom u 11h (srpski jezik) i u 13h (engleski jezik), kod Spomenika Knezu Mihailu Jezik: srpski-engleski Trajanje: 120 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Napomena: Polazak zavisi od vremenskih prilika

A COFFEE WITH PRINCESS LJUBICA

“A Coffee with Princess Ljubica“is a special progamme intended to present the Residence of Princess Ljubica and the life in Belgrade during the rule of the Obrenović dynasty. A curator of the Belgrade City Museum will meet you as the hostess of the Residence, dressed in an early 19th-century costume. Along with the underlying historical story, you can hear interesting details about the private life of the ruling family. For this occasion, the Divan-khana, the central room in the residence where guests were received, is open to visitors.

English language programme: available upon request Duration: 60 minute, Ticket price: 500 dinars Bookings: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime Markovica 8, tel. 2638 264; Group visits are available throughout the week if announced in advance either by phone 3283-504 or by e-mail office@mgb.org.rs.

NA KAFI KOD KNEGINJE LJUBICE

Programom “Na kafi kod kneginje Ljubice” predstavlja se život u Beogradu u vreme vladavine dinastije Obrenovic na jedan neuobicajen nacin. Kustoskinja Muzeja grada Beograda obucena u kostim iz perioda kneginje Ljubice dočekuje posetioce kao domaćica svoje palate. Prica kojom animira publiku je popularna

BelGuest JESEN | AUTUMN 2012

Hotel Accommodation Sightseeing Tours Transfers Business Service Rent-a-car Train, bus & air tickets Complete Service Assistance GUARANTIED DEPARTURES -pick up from hotels CITY TOUR-Daily ,at 10.50,2 Hours with photo stop, OPLENAC-Wed,at 14.00,4 Hours NOVI SAD-Thu, at 14.00,4 hours

www.metropoliten.com www.travelserbiabelgrade.com glob@metropoliten.com

i prilagođena turistickim turama obilaska muzeja. Pored osnovne istorijske priče saznaćete zanimljive detalje o privatnom životu vladarske porodice. Za ovu priliku otvorena je Divan hana, centralno mesto u Konaku gde su se tradicionalno dočekavili gosti i ispijala kafa. Program: svake subote u 12h u Konaku kneginje Ljubice Jezik: srpski Trajanje: 60 minuta, Cena ulaznice: 250 dinara Prodaja karata: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime Markovica 8, tel. 2638 264; Vanrednu predstavu moguće je zakazati na telefon: 3283-504 ili na office@mgb.org.rs

BELGRADE BUS /TRAM/MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEOGRAD IZ AUTOBUSA, TRAMVAJA, MINIBUSA

BELGRADE BUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

Get to know Belgrade by cruising its city streets and enjoy the interesting stories of guides about the history, architecture and life of Belgraders. Through this tour you will be familiarised with the narrow core of the city and part of New Belgrade Route: Belgrade City Assembly, National Parliament, Terazije, Republic Square, Studentski Trg, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade, Topčider Hill, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Slavija Square, Nikola Pasic Square Departure point: 12 Nikola Pasic Square, every Sunday at 10am (in English) and 12pm (Serbian) Duration: 90-minute guided tour; tickets sold onboard city buses Information: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA IZ AUTOBUSA

Upoznajte Beograd krstareći njegovim gradskim ulicama i uživajte u interesantnoj priči vodiča o istoriji grada, arhitekturi i životu Beograđana. Kroz ovu

AUTUMN | JESEN 2012 BelGuest

Makenzijeva 26, 11000 Beograd, Srbija Telefoni: (011) 2430-852, (011) 2430-899, (011) 2437-483, (011) 2431-076

turu upoznaćete uže jezgro grada i deo Novog Beograda. Maršruta: Skupština grada Beograda, Dom Narodne skupštine, Terazije, Trg republike, Studentski trg, Beogradska tvrđava, Varoš kapija, Novi Beograd, Topčidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Trg Slavija, Trg Nikole Pašića Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, nedeljom u 10.00 (Engleski) i u 12.00 (Srpski) Trajanje: 90 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča; Karte se prodaju u autobusu Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

A TRAM NAMED BELGRADE

Route: Departure from the tram terminal at the Zoo, Tadeuša Košćuška Street, Kalemegdan Park, the Port of Belgrade, Karađordjeva Street, Nemanjina Street, Resavska Street, King Aleksandar Boulevard, Vuk Stefanović Karadžićmonument, Kraljice Marije Street, George Washington Street and Tsar Dušan Street to Beko. Departure: Fridays from 8pm to 9pm / tours in english; Saturdays from 4pm to 5pm / tours in English Duration: 60-minute guided tour Reservations: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 The programme is free of charge; number of places limited to 25 persons

TRAMVAJ ZVANI BEOGRAD

Maršruta: Polazak sa okretnice kod ZOO vrta, ulica Tadeuša Košćuška, stajanje kod Kalemegdana, Pristanište, Karađorđeva ulica pored Železničke stanice, Nemanjina, Resavska, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra do Vukovog spomenika, Kraljice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana do Beka. Polazak: Petak, od 19h do 20h/ tura na srpskom, subota: od 15h do 16h/ tura na srpskom Vreme trajanja: 60 minuta Rezervacije: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Program razgledanja iz tramvaja je besplatan, broj mesta je ograničen na 25 osoba .

kim danom u 14h Trajanje: četiri sata Cena: 15€ uključuje rentiranje bicikla, vodiča, prevoz brodom i jedno besplatno piće Informacije: www.ibikebelgrade.com, tel. 066 900 8386

SPECIAL TOURS SPECIJALNE TURE RAKIA TOUR OF BELGRADE

Belgrade tram in the 1960s

MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

Tasting five different kinds of Rakia, served with appropriate snacks, in three different places in Belgrade, with the services of a professional guide in Serbian, English, French or Italian Departure: Upon request, from one of Belgrade’s Rakia bars

A minibus passes by the main sights of the city. Departure: in front of the Hotel Balkan (Prizrenska 2) or another hotel at the clients’ request, weekdays at 10:50am Duration: three hours Tickets: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Makenzijeva 26, tel.2439-852, 2430-899, 2437483, 2431-076 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade.com

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA MINIBUSOM

Minibus obilazi atraktivne turističke ambijentalne celine grada. Polazak: hotel Balkan (Prizrenska 2), radnim danima, 10.50 h Trajanje: 180 min Prodaja karata: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Makenzijeva 26, tel. 2439-852, 2430-899, 2437-483, 2431-076 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade.com

BELGRADE BY BICYCLE BEOGRAD BICIKLOM IBIKEBELGRADE TOUR

Professional English-speaking guides welcome you and take you to the bikes at the 25th May Sport Centre beside the Danube, within a 10-minute walk. Route: enjoy the Danube and Sava rivers, architectural highlights of the socialist era of Yugoslavia, the old city of Zemun and the green and beautiful island of Ada Ciganlija and its beach. Departure point: Kneza Mihailova street, in front of the Belgrade City Library, daily at 2pm Duration: four hours Price: €15 includes bike rental, guided tour, boat-ride and one free drink during the tour. Information: www.ibikebelgrade.com, tel. 066 900 8386

TURA IBIKEBELGRADE

Dočekaće vas profesionalni vodiči koji govore engleski i poželeti vam dobrodošlicu. Za desetk minuta hoda stići ćete do Sportskog centra 25. maj na obali Dunava, gde ćete odabrati bicikl. Maršruta: Uživaćete na obalama Dunava i Save, videćete neke arhitektonske domete iz doba jugoslovenskog socijalizma, staro jezgro Zemuna, lepu zelenu Adu Ciganliju i njene plaže. Polazak: Knez Mihailova ulica ispred zgrade Biblioteke grada Beograda, sva-

BelGuest JESEN | AUTUMN 2012

VRT DOBRE NADE

Zoolški vrt se nalazi na Malom Kalemegdanu, u okviru najznačajnije ambijentalne celine Beograda- Beogradske tvrđave. Utemeljen je 1936. godine. Uz veliki broj različitih i atraktivnih životinja, kao što su beli lavovi, žirafe, majmuni... Zoolški vrt je mesto na kojem ćete videti brojne skulpture, od kojih su neke posvećene autentičnim herojima iz sveta životinja. Zoolški vrt je otvoren čitave godine Informacije: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26

JEVREMOVAC BOTANICAL GARDENS

Information: www.metropoliten.com &www.rakiabar.com. Cell phone: 064/ 822-6626 Bookings: Glob Metropoliten Tours, tel:2430-852; 2430-899

BEOGRADSKA RAKIJA TURA

Ukoliko želite da osetite autentučni šarm Beograda i boemsku atmosferu uz organizovanu posetu Rakia barovima, gde uz pratnju stručnog vodiča možete više da saznate o rakiji i Beogradu i probate pet različitih rakija na tri različite lokacije koje se služe uz posebnu vrstu mezetluka koji pojačava i uokviruje sam ukus rakije. Polazak: Po dogovoru, iz jednog od Rakia barova. Informacije: www.metropoliten.com & www.rakiabar.com, Mob: 064/8226626 Rezervacije: Glob Metropoliten Tours, tel:2430-852; 2430-899

BELGRADE GARDENS: ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN & BOTANICAL GARDEN JEVREMOVAC THE GARDEN OF GOOD HOPE

The Zoological Garden, founded in 1936, is located in Kalemegdan and is part of the Belgrade Fortress, Belgrade’s most important cultural and historic monument. Along with a great variety of attractive animal residents, such as white lions, giraffes, monkeys, and cheetahs, at the zoo you will also see many sculptures, three of which are specifically dedicated to authentic heroes from the animal world. The Belgrade Zoological Garden is open year round. Informaton: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26.

AUTUMN | JESEN 2012 BelGuest

The Jevremovac Botanical Gardens is a monument to nature and a cultural monument of the city. Along with the Institute for Botany, the garden is a teaching unit of the Belgrade Biology Faculty. The botanical garden is home to around 1,000 species of plant and includes a 500m2 glasshouse that was erected way back in 1892. Duration: One hour Departure point: Main gate of the Botanical Gardens (Takovska 43) Working hours: 9am-7pm Informaton: Tel. 3246-655

BOTANIČKA BAŠTA JEVREMOVAC

Botanička bašta Jevremovac je spomenik prirode i spomenik kulture grada. Ona je zajedno sa Institutom za botaniku nastavna jedinica Biološkog fakulteta u Beogradu. U Botaničkoj bašti se nalazi oko 1.000 biljnih vrsta, a staklena bašta od 500 kvadratnih metara podignuta je još 1892. godine. Trajanje obilaska: 1 sat Polazak: Glavna kapija botaničke bašte (Takovska 43) Radno vreme: 9-19h Informacije: Tel. 3246-655

TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA BEOGRADA WWW.TOB.CO.RS Republic Square /Trg republike 011 3281 859 (Weekdays & Saturday from 9am to 9pm, Sundays 10am-1pm) Airport Nikola Tesla /Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 011 2097-828 (every day from 9am -10 pm) Main Railway Station /Glavna železnička stanica 011 361-2732 (Mondays through Frydays from 8 am to 8pm; Saturdays & Sundays from 8am to 4pm) Sava Peer /Savsko pristanište, Karađorđeva b.b. (every day from 8am to 7pm) Zemun Tourist Centre /Turistički centar Zemun, Magistarski trg 1 tel. 011 377-8535 (Mondays through Frydays from 9am to 3pm, Saturdays, from 9am to 1pm) TOS Information Center /Informativni centar TOS Čika Ljubina 8/I, tel.011 6557 127 (Mondays through Saturdays from 9am to 9pm )

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O P E N I N G

O F

B E L G R A D E

M E T R O P O L

P A L A C E

LONG AWAITED EVENT

After years of restoration, on 10th September an iconic hotel was given back to Belgrade and its guests, one that for almost half of a century was the perfect representative of the capital and the most famous hotel of the former Yugoslavia. The exterior of the restored Metropol Palace is identical to the old hotel, but inside it has undergone a radical transformation. The ambience emanates stylish and sophisticated lines, which can be summarised and dubbed a retro-modern style.

oday we opened floors with rooms in the hotel’s main building for our guests, the lobby, lobby bar, restaurant and banquet halls. I am certain that this iconic hotel will again be a place where Belgraders, but also the people from all over the world, will happily meet, socialise and enjoy what the Metropol Palace offers, said Gerasimos Perdikaris, general manager of the hotel, speaking at the opening. “The combination of modern architectural creativity and respect for the traditional architectural and artistic values of the former Metropol is what really make this hotel unique on our market, but also on the world market.” POPULAR CITY VENUE Building on the complete concept of connecting with tradition, the management’s idea is to return the hotel not only to guests, but also to Belgraders. The former Metropol was a favourite meeting place for drinking coffee, where people had lunch, dinner and celebrated. “Our intention is for the hotel to again become a popular city venue, which it was during its rich history. We don’t want it just to be a

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

luxury venue with five stars, which will not be available to residents of the capital, because Belgraders, together with world-famous names, have always been welcome guests here. We will not break this tradition,” says Jelena Đaković, Metropol Palace PR and marketing manager, speaking to BelGuest. On the trail of this invitation and recollections of moments spent in the old Metropol, we went for a coffee on the terrace overlooking Tašmajdan Park. With dark wooden floors, comfortable arm chairs in beige tones, inside the reduced tones of the “threaded”ambience is a bar covered by thin interlaced fluorescent tubes that change colour - from grass green to ethereal purple. This modern light “quote” is a good illustration of the idea of retromodern that has been consistently implemented by interior designers at the new Metropol. Very young people work on reception and the coffee bar and they told us that they are proud of the hotel’s tradition. We asked a young man at the entrance, who welcomes guests and sends them on their way, what has remained of the old Metropol. He showed us a large knitted intarsia from 1956 which

Dragiša Brašovan, the architect of the old building, ordered specially for the hotel. That valuable item from the old building was given the place of honour in the lobby of the new Metropol. BANQUET AND CONFERENCE CENTRE The hotel is designed so that it has the largest banquet space in the city, able to host different kinds of events – from large conferences, trade fairs and exhibitions, to weddings and celebrations of all kinds. “We have large halls that can be divided into smaller halls and adapted to every specific demand, spanning a total of 2,500 square metres of hotel space. I believe we have the best and the biggest conference space in the city,” says Jelena Đaković. Other facilities of the hotel, such as a wellness centre with a swimming pool and a rooftop restaurant, will open in the coming period. Only then will the Metropol Palace show whether it has managed to fully realise this “spectacular project” that permeates with both the old and the new. BelGuest

O T VA R A N J E

B E O G R A D S K O G

M E T R O P O L

PA L A S A

DUGO ŽELJENI DOGAĐAJ Beogradu i gostima grada je 10. septembra, nakon višegodišnje restauracije, ponovo vraćen kultni hotel, koji je gotovo pola veka bio savršen predstavnik prestonice i najpoznatiji hotel nekadašnje Jugoslavije. Obnovljeni Metropol Palas je po svojoj spoljašnosti identičan starom hotelu, ali je iznutra doživeo korenitu promenu. Ambijent odiše otmenom i prefinjenom linijom, koja se sažeto može nazvati stilom retro-moderne.

anas smo za naše goste otvorili spratove sa sobama u glavnoj zgradi hotela, lobi, lobi bar, restoran i banket sale. Siguran sam da će ovaj ikonički hotel ponovo biti mesto u kojem će se Beograđani, ali i ljudi iz celog sveta rado sretati, družiti i uživati u onome što im Metropol Palace pruža – rekao je na otvaranju Gerasimos Perdikaris, generalni menadžer hotela. „Spoj savremenog arhitektonskog stvaralaštva i poštovanje tradicionalnih arhitektonskih i umetničkih vrednosti nekadašnjeg Metropola ono je što ovaj hotel zapravo čini jedinstvenim na našem, ali i svetskom tržištu.“ POPULARNO GRADSKO MESTO Gradeći kompletnu koncepciju na spoju sa tradicijom, ideja menadžmenta jeste da hotel vrati ne samo gostima već upravo Beograđanima. Nekadašnji Metropol bio je omiljeno mesto gde se pila kafa, gde se ručavalo, večeralo i slavilo. „Naša namera je da hotel ponovo postane popularno gradsko mesto, što je u bogatoj istoriji i

bio. Ne želimo da to bude samo luksuzno zdanje sa pet zvezdica koje neće biti dostupno žiteljima prestonice, jer su Beograđani, uz svetski poznata imena, ovde bili uvek rado viđeni gosti. Takvu tradiciju nećemo prekidati“, kaže za BelGuest Jelena Đaković, PR i marketing menadžer hotela. Na tragu tog poziva i sećanja na trenutke provedene u starom Metropolu otišli smo da popijemo kafu na terasi iznad Tašmajdanskog parka. Tamni drveni podovi, udobne fotelje u bež tonovima. U svedeni tonalitet ambijenta „udenut“ je bar obložen tankim isprepletanim fluoroscentnim cevima koje menjaju boje – od trava zelene do prozračno ljubičaste. Taj moderan svetlosni „citat“ dobro ilustruje ideju retro-moderne, koju su dosledno sproveli enterijeristi novog Metropola. Na recepciji i u kafeu rade veoma mladi ljudi, koji su, kako su nam rekli, ponosni na tradiciju hotela. Pitali smo mladića koji na ulazu dočekuje i ispraća goste šta je u hotelu ostalo od starog Metropola. Pokazao nam je veliku intarziju iz 1956. godine, koju je Dragiša Brašovan, arhitekta starog zdanja,

specijalno poručio za hotel. Taj vredni deo starog zdanja dobio je počasno mesto u lobiju novog Metropola. BANKET I KONFERENCIJSKI CENTAR Hotel je projektovan tako da ima i najveći banket prostor u gradu. Tu mogu da se organizuju različite vrste dešavanja – od velikih konferencija, sajmova i izložbi, do venčanja i proslava svih vrsta. „Imamo velike dvorane, koje se mogu deliti na manje sale, prilagodljive svakom posebnom zahtevu, koje se prostiru na ukupno 2.500 kvadrata hotelskog prostora. Verujem da imamo najbolji i najveći konferencijski prostor u gradu“ , kaže Jelena Đaković. Ostali sadržaji hotela poput velnes-centra sa bazenom i restoranom na krovu biće otvoreni u narednom periodu. Tek tada će Metropol Palas pokazati da li je uspeo u potpunosti da ostvari „spektakularni projekat“ u kojem se prožimaju staro i novo. BelGuest

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

C L U B O LY M P U S F I T N E S S C E N T R E A N D S PA , H YAT T R E G E N C Y H O T E L

SPACE OF A PARTICULAR TOUCH INFO: Club Olympus Fitness Centre & Spa Tel: +381 11 301 11 71 www.belgrade.regency. hyatt.com

As part of Belgrade’s elite and dynamic Hyatt Regency Hotel, located in a quiet and secluded part of the hotel, surrounded by a botanical garden, is the Olympus Fitness and Spa Centre. Warm tones, minimalist design, discrete details, the staff’s warm welcome and a smile at the reception desk are the first impressions of this space, which offers a truly exceptional range of facilities – starting from a gym, Finnish and Turkish saunas, swimming pools, Jacuzzis, a number of various massages and treatments... Besides the perfect ambience and service, Club Olympus especially cherishes the friendly atmosphere created by the people who work there.

e spoke to Dragica Aranitović, head and long-time manager of the Club Olympus, about the amenities and special features of the club. “I think that what makes our club distinctive and, in my opinion, the best in town is not only the outstanding and well-equipped space, but the staff who work here. We have a great team, a highly qualified team that, in a good and friendly atmosphere, takes care of each and every tiny detail. Our guests and club members feel and notice that. Guests who travel around the world are particularly able to compare their experiences and they say that they felt some sort of special satisfaction and a friendly mood here.” AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE The catalogue of services provided by Club Olympus includes dozens of special types of body and facial massages. It is not easy to choose between the massage called “Lavender – Mediterranean”, “Delicious Chocolate”, “Royal – Four Hands”, “Reiki”, “Memorable

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

Experience – Couples”... We asked Dragica Aranitović which treatment she would specifically highlight: “Each of our treatments is a unique experience. However, if I had to choose, I would choose body exfoliation RVB with the specialised Italian cosmetics. After use of that pealing therapy, the skin becomes really literally like silk. This treatment, I would say picturesquely, has both the scent and the taste. By the way, I like to say, but our guests and club members also say, that we have a particular style that we call the Special Hyatt touch.” PROGRAMMES FOR MEMBERS AND LOCAL CITIZENS Although a part of the hotel, Club Olympus has been designed as an open centre with its permanent members, but it is also visited by people who, according to their needs and choice, use some of the amenities that the club offers. That can be a workout in the gym, the use of the swimming pool and sauna, manicure and pedicure, massage,

care and beautification treatments. “Members of our club can use all the facilities of the centre and receive numerous benefits for spa treatments and restaurant services. We anticipated the possibility of annual, semi-annual and quarterly memberships. We are open to all other people. They do not have to be members, we have special daily tickets and weekend tickets,” says Dragica Aranitović, explaining the principles of the club. “We also have individual training programmes and the gym is open for members from 5 a.m. to 11 p.m., while the spa centre is open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., which is a great advantage, especially for business people.” The full season for the Club Olympus is yet to begin. As it was announced, the new season will see the opening of an exclusive large swimming pool that, with Jacuzzi jets, offers all Olympus visitors new pleasures and much needed active relaxation. BelGuest

PROSTOR NAROČITOG DODIRA U okviru elitnog i dinamičnog beogradskog Hyatta, u mirnom i izolovanom delu hotela koji okružuje botanički vrt nalazi se Fitnes i Spa centar Olympus. Topli tonovi, svedeni dizajn, diskretni detalji, dobrodošlica i osmeh zaposlenih na recepciji prvi su utisci o ovom prostoru, koji pruža zaista izuzetan raspon sadržaja – od sale za treninge, finske i turske saune, bazena, đakuzija, brojnih masaža i tretmana... Pored perfektnog ambijenta i usluge, klub Olympus posebno neguje prijateljsku atmosferu, koju stvaraju ljudi zaposleni u njemu.

sadržajima i posebnostima Fitines i Spa centra Olympus razgovarali smo sa Dragicom Aranitović, glavnom i dugogodišnjom menadžerkom kluba. „Mislim da ono što naš klub čini prepoznatljivim i, po mom mišljenju, najboljim u gradu, nije samo izuzetan i vrhunski opremljen prostor već upravo osoblje koje ovde radi. Imamo odličan, kvalifikovan tim, koji u dobroj i prijateljskoj atmosferi brine o svakom, pa i o najmanjem detalju. To naši gosti i članovi kluba i osećaju i zapažaju. Pogotovu oni koji putuju po celom svetu i mogu da uporede iskustva. Oni kažu da su kod nas osetili neko posebno zadovoljstvo i prijateljsko raspoloženje.“

NEPONOVLJIVI DOŽIVLJAJ U katalogu usluga koje pruža klub Olympus nabrojano je na desetine posebnih vrsta masaža tela i lica. Nije lako odučiti se između masaža koje se zovu mediteranska lavanda, ukusna čokolada, kraljevska, reiki, trenuci za pamćenje... Pitali smo Dragicu Aranitović koji bi tretman posebno izdvojila: „Svaki naš tretman je neponovljivi doživljaj, ipak ako bih ja birala, to bi bio piling tela RVB specijalizovanom italijanskom kozmetikom. Nakon upotrebe tog pilinga koža doslovno postaje kao svila. Ovaj tretman, rekla bih, ima i miris i ukus. Inače ja volim da kažem da mi, a to govore i naši gosti i članovi, imamo poseban stil, koji nazivamo Special Hyatt touch. “ PROGRAMI ZA ČLANOVE I GRAĐANSTVO Iako u sklopu hotela, Olympus je koncipiran kao otvoren centar, koji ima svoje stalne članova, ali ga posećuju i ljudi koji po potrebi i svom izboru koriste neki od njegovih sadržaja. To može biti trening u teretani, korišćenje bazena i

sauna, usluge manikira i pedikira, masaže, tretmani nege i ulepšavanja. „Članovi našeg kluba mogu da koriste sve sadržaja centra i dobijaju brojne pogodnostI na spa tretmane i usluge restorana. Predvideli smo mogućnost godi-šnje, polugodišnje i tromesečne članarine. Otvoreni smo i za sve ostale, ne moraju biti članovi, imamo dnevne karte i posebne vikend karte“, objašnjava principe rada kluba Dragica Aranitović. „Imamo i programe individualnih treninga, a teretana za članove radi od 5 ujutru do 11 uveče. I spa centar je otvoren od 8 ujutru do 10 uveče, što je velika pogodnost upravo za poslovne ljude.“ Puna sezona za klub Olympus tek počinje. Za početak nove sezone najavljeno je otvaranje ekskluzivnog velikog bazena za plivanje, koji će, uz mlaznice đakuzija, svim posetiocima Olympusa pružiti nova zadovoljstva i preko potrebno aktivno opuštanje. BelGuest

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

TOS RECOMMENDS – IVANJICA AND SURROUNDINGS

THE BIRTHPLACE OF RURAL TOURISM

The beautiful southwest Serbian town of Ivanjica is located “in the lap of seven mountains” – Golija, Javor, Mučanj, Čemerno, Čemernica, Radočelo and Kukutnica. The most famous mountain in the Ivanjica area is Golija, which has been declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO thanks to its exceptional natural beauty. It was in this area of clean and healing air, in the village Devići, that Serbian rural tourism was born some four decades ago. Today there are ten or so villages in the Ivanjica area where you can find exceptional holiday homes, while Ivanjica itself offers more than good reasons to visit and stay there.

he village of Devići, legend has it, was named after camels (Serbian “deva” stands for “camel”)! On the back of nine camels arrived a great treasure and then it was buried there, they say, under the foundations of the

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

church. All trace of the treasure was lost, but Devići became the treasure of this region and the first point on the map of rural tourism in Serbia. Today the Ivanjica rural tourism map includes the villages of Lisa, Katići, Maće, Međurečje, Kušići, Bukovica,

Kumanica et al. Rural households mainly offer full board and guests can join the hosts in picking raspberries, blackberries, mowing, gathering forest berries, herbs etc. Mountaineering, hiking, hunting, fishing, mountain biking, trips to Mount Golija

vicinity there are valuable mineral resources. Her guests this summer were engineers from Germany who examined the possibilities of mining the ore. With conversation and while sipping coffee we examined her jars of fruit preserves and a handful of drying herbs. The air fills with the scents of herbs and wooden logs stored for the winter. From Marina Reka we head off towards the village of Lisa and find ourselves followed along the way by boards and signposts leading to rural households. We reach the village, which is a typical mountain village with houses scattered on the forested hillside dotted with meadows. Guests in this village are welcomed at Ilija Milićević’s lodgings, which is on an uphill slope offering views of the entire surroundings. The village stream completes Lisa’s idyllic scenery. Here guests often join the host as he distils brandy, and at Ilija Milićević’s homestead guests can learn how to prepare some old and forgotten Serbian dishes. You will come as a guest and leave as a friend, say the residents of Lisa. Here we turnaround and head back, setting off via Ivanjica along Javor Mountain towards the village of Kušići.

INFO: Tourist Organization of Ivanjica Milinka Kušića 47 32250 Ivanjica Tel. +381 (0) 32 665 085 +381 (0) 32 650 290 www.ivatourism.org

JAVOR MOUNTAIN Just a few minutes drive along Mount Javor will be enough for you to see Ivanjica and the Moravica valley on the palm of your hand. Every curve is a panorama offering views of branched pathways leading to the beautiful mountains surrounding Ivanjica. At the fourth kilometre we encounter the Morava Lazarica Church. According to tradition, Boško Jugović, one of the nine Jugovićs – the epic

heroes of the Battle of Kosovo, was buried here. While retreating, wounded in battle, Boško Jugović reached this hill and died here. In 1929 local Blagoje Luković from Ivanjica built a new church on the site of the old medieval church. Nine oak trees were planted in the courtyard in memory of the nine heroes. Today they are protected national treasures. On the road near the church we pass a roadside memorial that this part of Serbia is known for. The next 20 kilometres of road wind through unpopulated landscapes that this year’s drought and hot summer painted in pink and yellow autumn colours before the time was due. Raspberry fields look like vineyards from a distance. Trees, plum orchards and potato fields whizz by one after another. DOCTORS – PEACE, DIET AND LAUGHTER We arrive in Kušići and are greeted by a notice board displaying formulas for health and longevity – the top doctors are: Doctor Peace, Doctor Diet and Doctor Laughter. This village lies on the slopes of Mount Javor and has a magnificent view of the mountains Mučanj, Čemernica and Golija. Thanks to an ideal altitude of 1,000 metres, and particularly the “rose winds”, the concentration of ions and pine forests, Kušići is the right place to recover and treat lung disorders. Accommodation is offered at the newly renovated Hotel Javor, owned by company Mona, and Villa Angelina, owned by the Vidaković family. Zdravko Avramović, manager of the Hotel Javor, tells us: in addition to accommodation and good food, hotel guests are also offered illuminated

and the wonderful Uvac lakes nearby are part of the content that will fill the days of your holiday. Warmth, hospitality and a healthy spirit, spiced with a peculiar sense of humour, are the characteristics of the inhabitants of this part of Serbia. MARINA REKA AND LISA BelGuest’s little field research trip included three villages of the Ivanjica area: Marina Reka, Lisa and Kušići. Marina Reka is a few kilometres away from Ivanjica and is actually a village on the outskirts of the town. A pretty house, awash with blooming geraniums and a threshing barn overgrown with vines, offers four-star rooms. Our hostess was called Raduška and from the first moment she appeared to us as an open-minded and hardworking woman with a multitude of occupations – she has even gathered an entire collection of the minerals of this area, so we found out that in the

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

Villa Avramović, Kumanica village

trim-track paths, a mapped Health Path and a winter ski slope. The hotel organises trips to the attractive Uvac reserve, Vasilijevski Vrh - Javor’s highest peak, the monument to Major Mihajlo Ilić, hero of the Javor War (1876-1878) and the village of

Milandža, which is home to one of the oldest schools in the area. - The guests most appreciate hospitality, good food and cleanliness. We don’t have any advertising, our guests are our best advertisers. All of them return to us. Our villa has four stars and

LANDMARKS OF IVANJICA The Church of Saint Emperor Constantine and Empress Helena was built in 1838 with donations from believers. The frescoes of painter Dimitrije Posniković from 1862 and the iconography have been preserved in their entirety. This town centre temple, which was personally looked after by Prince Miloš Obrenović, is today under state protection. “Jeremić House”, one of only 12 houses to survive the great fire, is located in the city centre at the end of the town’s promenade route. It is also under state protection. “Kušića han” is located next to the monument of General Dragoljub Mihailović. This is one of the oldest monuments of rural architecture in the Morava region and is also on the list of structures under state protection. The stone bridge, which at the time of construction in 1906 was the only single-arch bridge in the Balkans and, it is claimed, the biggest. It connects the banks of the Moravica along the road from Javor to Dragačevo. Built of cut stone using a system of blocks, it is protected as a cultural monument of great historical significance and is one of the symbols of Ivanjica. At a time when electricity was unknown even to many European cities, on St. Nicholas Day back in 1911, the Moravica Power Plant was put into operation as the ninth power hydro plant in Serbia. “As of today, Ivanjica will see an eternal day,” said residents welcoming its opening. This hydroelectric plant still operates today and is a kind of museum. A special attraction is the dam – the waterfall on the River Moravica.

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each room has a bathroom and a television. Word got out about us back in the ’70s, when experience showed that being here helps treat the lungs. Most of our guests come from Belgrade and Vojvodina towns. We have foreigners coming too and a group of Europeans who were filming all this and our life here just left, says Stojadin Vidaković, owner of Villa Angelina, who decided to restore the family estate after a short stay in the U.S. He tells us about the rough lives of his ancestors, who traded tar and sometimes went barefoot on the snow. He named his lovely villa after his mother Angelina – a tough, persistent and resolute woman who managed to preserve the estate that was acquired with hard work. From Angelina’s estate a view is offered of the surrounding mountains and the sister villages of Katići and Maće. KATIĆI AND THE HAMLET OF MAĆE We didn’t visit the villages of Katići and Maće, only seeing them from afar, located as they are among the rocky peaks below the top of Mount Mučanj. According to the guidebook, this village is a small tourist town – boasting more than 100 beds, most of them at the Hotel Logos, while the

Villa Veličković, Šume village

Villa Angelina, Kušići village

Villa Vučković, Bukovica village

others are in the log cabins and the private house of the Obradović family. In 2005 TOS awarded this household the Tourist Flower Award for the best rural household in the country. The Obradović family offers guests a variety of amenities, such as mountain train rides and trips to Bela Crkva and the source of Savina Voda water. Maće is a hamlet of Katići. It is known for a special type of folk buildings with stone roofs of thin plates. “Beautiful nature, clean air, ordered village yards and houses under slate tiles, a climate without major oscillations and the traditional hospitality of the people make this hamlet an attractive destination even for the most demanding fans of rural tourism,” noted the guidebook. We will mention just a few places on Mount Golija: the village of Komadine and Golija Lodgings, Villa Avramović in Kumanica at the foot of the Nature Park and Biosphere Reserve and the village of Dajići in the heart of the mountain, with a holiday home of the Luković family.

tre of the region. The River Moravica runs through the town, then goes on to emerge as the West Morava River and then the Great Morava, Serbia’s largest internal river. The first written record of Ivanjica dates back to 1505 and is kept in the Dubrovnik archives. It was among the first settlements in Serbia to acquire the status of a town – in 1866 by decree of Prince Miloš Obrenović. Because of its environmental value, in the authentic late 19th century appearance, the centre of Ivanjica has been declared an historical site of great importance. If we were able to remove promotional umbrellas with logos of planetary brands and ATMs from view, walking down the main street would be a successful journey through the time of romantic Serbian towns. The strong spirit of the old town still rises from the old cafés and bars, but also from modern ones which are literally dotted on both sides of the main street. We will mention only the restaurant café “At the Bankruptcy,” which has the ambience of a tavern from the 1860s.

ALL ROADS LEAD TO IVANJICA The route around the villages inevitably begins in Ivanjica and leads us back there. This is the geographic, economic, administrative and cultural cen-

FIRST SERBIAN AIR SPA Thanks to its climatic conditions, Ivanjica began engaging in organised tourism back in 1938, when it was declared equally, alongside

Dubrovnik, Kotor and Cetinje, as a climatic spa. Due to political circumstances, it was not until 1978 that the Rehabilitation Institute of “Ivanjica” was founded, at the initiative of the Institute of Haematology and the Serbian Medical Society, to treat anaemia and allergies, as well as lung, heart and neurological disorders. According to a decision of the government of Serbia in the year 2000, Ivanjica was declared a health resort. According to the Tourist Organisation, alongside rural tourism, Ivanjica has the potential to develop all kinds of tourism – health, sports, hunting and fishing, daytrips, religious, congress ... Prior to WWII the town had just one hotel – the Spasović, while today guests can stay at the exclusive Hotel Park, which has four stars, its own indoor swimming pool and a spa centre. The map of accommodation facilities also includes “Western City”, the “Golija” resort and the Institute for Rehabilitation. JeLenA tAsIĆ mILenA mIHALJČIĆ photographs: tOuRIst ORGAnIZAtIOn IVAnJICA & DRAGAn BOsnIĆ

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

TOS PREPORUČUJE – IVANJICU I IVANJIČKI KRA J

RODNO MESTO SEOSKOG TURIZMA

Lepa varoš Ivanjica na jugozapadu Srbije smeštena je „u krilu sedam planina“ – Golije, Javora, Mučnja, Čemerna, Čemernice, Radočela i Kukutnice. Najpoznatija ivanjička planina je Golija, koju je zbog izuzetne prirode UNESCO proglasio za rezervat biosfere. Na ovom podneblju čistog i lekovitog vazduha, u selu Devići, pre četiri decenije rođen je seoski turizam Srbije. Danas se u desetak ivanjičkih sela mogu naći izvanredne kuće za odmor, a sama Ivanjica pruža više nego dobre razloge za posetu i boravak.

elo Devići je, kako legenda kaže, dobilo ime po kamilama! Na leđima devet kamila – deva stiglo je veliko blago, a potom je tu zakopano, kažu, ispod temelja crkve. Blagu se izgubio svaki trag, ali su Devići postali blago ovog kraja i prva tačka na mapi seoskog turizma Srbije. Danas su na ivanjičku kartu seoskog turizma upisana sela Lisa, Katići, Maće, Međurečje, Kušići, Bukovica, Kumanica... Seoska domaćinstva mahom nude pun pansion, a gosti mogu da se priključe domaćinima u branju malina, kupina, košenju, sakupljanju šumskih plodova, lekovitog bilja... Planinarenje, pešačenje, lov, ribolov, planinski biciklizam, izleti na Goliju i čudesna obližnja Uvačka jezera deo su sadržaja kojim se ispunjavaju

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dani odmora. Srdačnost, gostoprimljivost i zdrav duh, začinjen posebnim smislom za humor, svojstven je stanovnicima ovog dela Srbije. MARINA REKA I LISE Malo terensko istraživanje BelGuesta obuhvatilo je tri ivanjička sela: Marinu Reku, Lise i Kušiće. Marina Reka udaljena je od Ivanjice svega nekoliko kilometara i zapravo je selo u predgrađu varoši. Lepa kuća, sva u rascvetalim muškatlama, senik za odmor obrastao lozom, sobe s četiri zvezdice. Naša domaćica zove se Raduška i od prvog trenutka predstavlja nam se kao otvorena i vredna žena širokih zanimanja – sakupila je čitavu zbirku minerala ovog kraja, pa tako saznajemo da se u

okolini nalaze vredna rudna bogatstva. Gosti su joj ovog leta bili inženjeri iz Nemačke koji su ispitivali mogućnosti iskopavanja rude. Uz razgovor i kafu, razgledamo njene tegle sa slatkim i pregršti lekovitog bilja koje se suši. Vazduh ispunjava miris bilja i drvenih oblica spremljenih za zimu. Iz Marine Reke krećemo ka selu Lisa, uz put nas prate table i putokazi koji vode ka seoskim domaćinstvima. Stižemo do sela, koje je tipično planinsko naselje sa kućama razbacanim po brdima obraslim šumama i pašnjacima. U ovom selu goste prima pansion Ilije Milićevića. Na uzvišenju je sa kojeg se širi vidik na čitavu okolinu. Seoska rečica upotpunjava prizor lisanske idile. Tu gosti s domaćinom često peku rakiju, a u domaćinstvu

Panorama of Kušići

Drage Milićević mogu da nauče i kako se pripremaju stara i zaboravljena srpska jela. Doći ćete kao gost, a otići ćete kao prijatelj, kažu meštani Lise. Tu pravimo zaokret, vraćamo se, i preko Ivanjice krećemo uz planinu Javor, ka selu Kušići. JAVOR PLANINA Samo nekoliko minuta vožnje uz Javor dovoljno je da se Ivanjica i dolina Moravice ukažu kao na dlanu. Svaka krivina je panorama sa koje se vide razgranati putevi koji vode ka lepim ivanjičkim planinama. Na četvrtom kilometru nailazimo na Moravičku crkvu Lazaricu. Po predanju, tu je sahranjen Boško Jugović, jedan od devet Jugovića – epskih junaka Boja na Kosovu. Povlačeći se, ranjen u boju, Boško Jugović je stigao do ovog brda i tu izdahnuo. Na mestu stare srednjovekovne crkve Ivanjičanin Blagoje Luković je 1929. godine podigao novi hram. U porti je posađeno devet hrastova u spomen na devet junaka. Oni su danas zaštićeno nacionalno dobro. Na putu pored crkve nailazimo i na jedan spomenik krajputaš, po kojima je ovaj deo Srbije poznat. Narednih dvadesetak kilometara put vijuga kroz nenaseljene predele koje je ovogodišnje sušno i vrelo leto pre vremena obojilo jesenjim žutorumenim bojama. Zasadi malina izdaleka izgledaju

kao vinogradi. Smenjuju se šume, šljivici, polja krompira. DOKTORI – MIR, DIJETA I SMEH Stižemo u Kušiće – dočekuje nas tabla na kojoj je zapisana formula zdravlja i dugovečnosti – Najbolji doktori su: dr Mir, dr Dijeta i dr Smeh. Ovo selo leži na obroncima Javora, sa čarobnim pogledom na planine Mučanj, Čemernicu i Goliju. Zbog idealne nadmorske visine od 1000 metara, naročite ruže vetrova, koncentracije jona i borove šume, Kušići su pravo mesto za oporavak i lečenje pluća. Smeštaj se nudi u renoviranom hotelu „Javor“, vlasništvu modne kuće Mona i Vili „Angelini“ porodice Vidaković. Zdravko Avramović, menadžer hotela „Javor“, kaže nam da „pored smeštaja i dobre hrane, gosti hotela imaju kao sadržaj osvetljenu trim-stazu, mapiranu Stazu zdravlja i zimsku skistazu“. Hotel organizuje izlete do atraktivnog rezervata Uvac, Vasilijevog vrha – najviše tačke Javora, spomenika majoru Mihajlu Iliću, junaku „Javorskog rata“ (1876–1878) i selu Milandži, gde se nalazi jedna od najstarijih škola u ovom kraju. „Gostima su najvažniji gostoprimstvo, dobra hrana i čistoća. Nemamo neku reklamu, najbolja reklama su naši gosti. Svi nam se vraćaju. Naša vila ima četiri zvezdice, svaka soba ima kupatilo i tele-

vizor. Pročuli smo se još sedamdesetih godina, kada je iskustvo pokazalo da boravak ovde leči pluća. Najviše gostiju imamo iz Beograda i vojvođanskih gradova. Dolaze nam i stranci, upravo je otišla jedna ekipa Evropljana koja je snimala sve ovo i naš život“ – kaže Stojadin Vidaković, vlasnik vile „Angelina“, koji je posle kratke pečalbe u SAD, odlučio da obnovi porodično imanje. Priča nam o tegobnom životu svojih predaka, koji su trgovali katranom i pokatkad išli i bosonogi po snegovima. Svoju lepu vilu nazvao je po majci Angelini – žilavoj, upornoj i odlučnoj ženi, koja je uspela da sačuva mukotrpno stečen imetak. Sa Angelininog imanja pruža se pogled na okolne planine i sestrinska sela Katići i Maće. KATIĆI I ZASELAK MAĆE Sela Katiće i Maće nismo posetili, videli smo ih samo izdaleka, udenute među bregove ispod stenovitog vrha planine Mučanj. Prema podacima iz vodiča, ovo selo je mala turistička varoš – raspolaže sa više od 100 ležajeva, najviše ih je u hotelu „Logos“, dok su ostali u brvnarama i domaćoj radinosti porodice Obradović. Turistička organizacija Srbije je 2005. godine ovom domaćinstvu dodelila „Turistički cvet“ za najbolje seosko domaćinstvo u zemlji. Porodica

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

Church in Ivanjica

Horseman below Mount Mučanj

Obradović svojim gostima nudi raznovrsne sadržaje, na primer vožnju planinskim vozićem i izlete do Bele Crkve i izvora Savina voda. Maće je zaselak sela Katići. Poznato je po posebnom narodnom graditeljstvu kamenih krovova od tankih ploča. „Prelepa priroda, čist

vazduh, uređena seoska dvorišta i kuće koje su pokrivene maćanskom pločom, klima bez velikih oscilacija, te tradicionalno gostoprimstvo domaćina čine ovo selo privlačnom destinacijom čak i za one najprobirljivije poklonike seoskog turizma“, piše u vodiču.

Hotel Javor, Kušići village

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Pomenućemo još samo nekoliko mesta na Goliji: selo Komadine i „Golijske konake“, vilu Avramović u Kumanici u samom podnožju Parka prirode i rezervata biosfere i selo Dajiće u srcu planine, sa kućom za odmor porodice Luković. SVI PUTEVI VODE U IVANJICU Šetnja po selima neminovno počinje u Ivanjici i nju nas vraća. To je geografski, privredni, administrativni i kulturni centar ovog kraja. Kroz grad protiče Moravica, začetnica, Zapadne Morave, a potom Velike Morave, naše najveće reke. Prvi pisani trag o Ivanjici potiče iz 1505. godine i čuva se u Dubrovačkom arhivu. Status varoši stekla je među prvima u Srbiji – 1866. godine ukazom kneza Miloša Obrenovića. Zbog ambijentalne vrednosti – autentičnog izgleda s kraja 19. veka, strogi centar Ivanjice proglašen je za prostorno-istorijsku celinu od velikog značaja. Kada bismo iz vidnog polja uspeli da uklonimo reklamne suncobrane, logotipe planetarnih brendova i bankomate, šetnja glavnom gradskom ulicom bila bi uspešna plovidba u vreme

Stone bridge – symbolic landmark of the town

romantične srbijanske varoši. Snažan duh te stare varoši izvire i danas iz starih, ali i modernih kafana i kafića, koji se doslovno nižu s obe strane glavne ulice. Spomenućemo samo restoran kafe „Kod Bankrota“, koji ima ambijent kafane iz šezdesetih godine 19. veka.

PRVA VAZDUŠNA BANJA SRBIJE Zahvaljujući klimatskim uslovima Ivanjica je organizovanim turizmom počela da se bavi još 1938, kada je ravnopravno sa Dubrovnikom, Cetinjem i Kotorom proglašena za banjsko i klimatsko mesto. Sticajem političkih okolnosti,

ZNAMENITOSTI IVANJICE Crkva Sv. cara Konstantina i carice Jelene sagrađena je 1838. godine, prilogom vernika. Živopis slikara Dimitrija Posnikovića iz 1862. i ikonopis u celini su sačuvani. Ovaj hram u centru grada, o kojem se lično starao knez Miloš Obrenović, danas se nalazi pod zaštitom države. „Jeremića kuća“, jedna od 12 koje su preživele veliki požar, nalazi se u centru grada, na kraju gradskog korzoa. Stavljena je pod zaštitu države. Kušića han nalazi se pored spomenika generalu Dragoljubu Mihailoviću. To je jedan od najstarijih spomenika seoskog neimarstva u Moravičkom kraju. I on se nalazi na listi dobara pod zaštitom države. Kameni most, u vreme izgradnje 1906. godine, bio je jedini jednolučni most na Balkanu, a tvrdi se da je i najveći. Povezuje obale Moravice na putu Javor–Dragačevo. Građen je od klesanog kamena, sistemom klinova. Zaštićen je kao kulturno dobro od velikog istorijskog značaja i jedan je od simbola Ivanjice. U vreme kada je struja bila nepoznanica i za mnoge evropske gradove, na Nikoljdan davne 1911. godine puštena je u rad hidrocentrala „Moravica“, kao deveta hidrocentrala u Srbiji. „Od danas je u Ivanjici večiti dan“, pozdravili su meštani njeno otvaranje. Hidrocentrala i danas radi i predstavlja neku vrstu muzeja. Posebna atrakcija je brana – vodopad na Moravici.

tek 1978, na inicijativu Instituta za hematologiju i Srpskog lekarskog društva, ovde je osnovan Zavod za rehabilitacju „Ivanjica“, u kojem se leče malokrvnost, alergije, plućne, srčane i neuroloških bolesti. Odluku Vlade Srbije iz 2000. godine da Ivanjicu proglasi za vazdušnu banju u Turističkoj organizaciji smatraju potvrdom da Ivanjica, uz seoski turizam, ima mogućnost da razvija sve vidove turizma – zdravstveni, sportski, lovno-ribolovni, izletnički, verski, kongresni... Pre Drugog svetskog rata grad je imao samo jedan hotel – „Spasović“, a danas u samom gradu gosti mogu odsesti u ekskluzivnom hotelu „Park“, koji ima četiri zvezdice, svoj zatvoren bazen i spa centar. Na mapi smeštajnih kapaciteta grada nalaze se „Vestern siti“, odmaralište „Golija“ i „Zavod za rehabilitaciju“. JeLenA tAsIĆ mILenA mIHALJČIĆ fotografije: tuRIstIČKA ORGAnIZACIJA IVAnJICe, DRAGAn BOsnIĆ

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

N U Š I Ć I J A D A – F E S T I VA L O F L A U G H T E R , F U N , F I L M C O M E D Y A N D H U M O U R

MORE THAN A GAME How can one be special and create a modern and attractive event based on tradition? The answer to this question was best answered by the people gathered around the KUDES citizens’ association. Building on the authentic ambience of the city, making a link with the cult TV series “More Than a Game” and devoting the festival to a great Serbian comedy writer who used to send his literary heroes to Ivanjica as punishment, is a bold, creative and successful scenario that brought Nušićijada back among the top tourist events in Serbia in just a few years.

vanjica lives with the festival in the full sense of the word. Nušićijada is not an isolated event that takes place within the circle of organisers and guests. Rather, all of the city’s taverns and coffee shops are decorated with flags depicting Branislav Nušić and all of them play the old urban music and some selected folk songs. Music is just one of the ingredients of an atmosphere that creates good vibrations and

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

the ambience of an old Serbian town. Walking the streets of Ivanjica are the girls, women, young and middle-aged men, girls and boys dressed in costumes of the old civic Serbia. Lace and straw hats walk down the promenade, as do bowler hats and top hats, a boy with a baseball cap and a “shotgun”, girls in petticoats and silk ribbons... In the evening, when the programme commences on the square’s “Round

corner” stage, the street is so crowded that you cannot pass by. People break through, touch and pass in a colourful mix of time present and time past, reviving the old provincial ambience. The programme on stage is conducted by an actor in the role of Branislav Nušić – sporting a moustache, dressed in a black tuxedo and wearing a top hat and a rod, he is reminiscent of the famous Serbian playwright.

HISTORY OF THE FESTIVAL According to Miloje Ostojić from the Tourist Organisation of Ivanjica, Nušićijada was created from a tourist and entertainment event called “September in Ivanjica”. It took place in 1967 and, apart from its “Little Fair” and music programme, it showed a review of domestic films based on Nušić’s comedies. The very next year saw the event renamed “Nušićijada” and it became one of the most popular events in the former Yugoslavia. Suddenly, without any ban and with the silent consent of the then organisers, it was discontinued in 1972. It is believed that the main reason was an ideological “showdown” of the then communists with the values of civic Serbia that Nušićijada shyly promoted. The festival was resurrected three years ago and managed to attract the attention of almost 30,000 visitors. In 2011 Nušićijada won the prestigious Tourist Flower Award, which is awarded by the Tourist Organisation of Serbia in the category of “special events in promoting tourism”, as well as the first prize in the “Tourism puzzle”, presented as part of the “Meetings of the organisers of tourist events”. TO BE SEEN FOR IVANJICA

TOWN AS A FILM BACKDROP “More than a Game”, written by Slobodan Stojanović and directed by Zdravko Šotra, is one of the most watched TV shows in Serbia. Shot in 1976 in Ivanjica and Veliko Gradište, this is the story of Gradina, a fictional small town in Serbia in the period from 1931 to 1941, whose special characteristic is the rivalry between two football clubs – FK Građanski (Citizens FC) and FK Radnički (Workers FC) – whose rivalry was “more than a game”. it was here that films were shot like A man from the oak trees, District spy, Užice Republic, Prune juice, Berlin coat, Wheels, The last act catching Draža Mihajlović. This is why Ivanjica was known during one period as “Little Hollywood”.

The real Branislav Nušić never visited Ivanjica, which is one of the paradoxes of this town that also gained its own railway station building long ago, even though the railroad never reached the town. The fact that he never set foot in Ivanjica did not prevent Nušić from sending his characters there, usually for punishment. As Živka, the main heroine of one of his best-known comedies, The Minister’s Wife, warns her son-in-law Čeda: “...I’ll show you who the Minister’s wife is. You are doomed; you are seen for Ivanjica!” This is an iconic sentence of Nušićijada, which is displayed on almost every festival souvenir. This play of words shows the spirit and ingenuity of the creators of Nušćijada –

from the original meaning, in which Ivanjica was synonymous with a nowhere town and the end of a cleric’s career, the slogan “to be seen for Ivanjica” turned into a call that means it is an honour to come and an honour to be seen there. THE SECOND MOST IMPORTANT THING The sense for the creative “mixing” of fiction and real life events gave this year’s Nušićijada new content. The underlying theme was the celebration of the centennial of local football club FK Javor. The real jubilee is interwoven with the story from the screenplay of the cult television series “More Than a Game,” which was broadcast in the 1980s and was partly filmed in Ivanjica. The topic of the series “More Than a Game” was the political situation of Serbia in the period from 1931 until the outbreak of WWII in 1941. The characters and events in the fictional small town are vividly described, while relationships are seen through the prism of the ideological rivalry of the two opposing football teams. In honour of FK Javor and the celluloid clubs “Građanski” and “Radnički” (Serbian for “Citizens” and “Workers” respectively), a parade marked the opening of this year’s festival, after which an honorary match called “More than a Game” was played at the stadium. The trademarks of the festival were an old-fashioned football boot and a Dandy shoe. The permanent guest of honour at Nušićijada is actor Petar Božović, the hero of the series “More than a Game”. In addition to having played a show at the “Funny evening” at the Cultural Centre, he was also seen sitting in a tavern called “At Bankrupt”. Ivanjica’s real tavern was named after a tavern from the TV series, showing that fiction and reality continue to be intertwined. JeLenA tAsIĆ mILenA mIHALJČIĆ Photographs: Tourist Organization of Ivanjica & DRAGAn BOsnIĆ

Nušić in Ivanjica

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

N U Š I Ć I J A D A - F E S T I VA L S M E H A , Z A B AV E , F I L M S K E K O M E D I J E I H U M O R A

VIŠE OD IGRE Kako biti poseban, kako na potki tradicije stvoriti savremen i privlačan događaj? Na ovo pitanje su sa najvišom ocenom odgovorili ljudi okupljeni oko udruženja građana KUDES. Nadovezujući se na autentičan ambijent grada, praveći kopču sa kultnom TV serijom „Više od igre“ i posvećujući festival velikom srpskom komediografu koji je svoje literarne junake u Ivanjicu slao po kazni hrabar je, kreativan i uspeli scenario koji je Nušićijadu za samo nekoliko godina doveo u sam vrh turističkih manifestacija Srbije.

vanjica u punom smislu reči živi sa Festivalom. Nušićijada nije neki izolovan događaj u krugu organizatora i zvanica. Sve gradske kafane i kafići okićeni su zastavicama sa likom Branislava Nušića i svi do jednog puštaju starogradsku i probranu narodnu muziku. Muzika je samo jedan od sastojaka štimunga koji vaja atmosferu stare srpske varoši. Ulicama Ivanjice šetaju devojke, žene, mladići, sredovečni ljudi, devojčice i dečaci odeveni u kostim stare građanske Srbije. Korzoom promiču čipkani i slameni šeširi, cilindri i polucilindri, dečkić s kačketom i pumparicama, devojčice sa žiponima, karnerima i svilenim mašnama... U večernjim satima, kada počinje program na trgu na kojem je postavljena pozornica nazvana „Okruglo

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

pa na ćoše“, ulicom više ne može da se prolazi. Ljudi se probijaju, dotiču i mimoilaze u živopisnoj mešavini vremena sadašnjeg i oživljenog starog varoškog veka. Program na pozornici vodi glumac u ulozi Branislava Nušića, ima brkove, odeven je u crni frak, nosi cilinder i štap, i likom veoma podseća na slavnog srpskog komediografa. SMISAO VIĐENJA U IVANJICI Stvarni Branislav Nušić nikad nije bio u Ivanjici, što je jedan od paradoksa ove varoši koja je davno dobila zgradu železničke stanice iako do nje pruga nikada nije stigla. To što sam nikad nije kročio u Ivanjicu Nušiću nije smetalo da u nju šalje svoje likove, najčešće po kazni. Upozorenje Živke, glavne

GRAD KAO FILMSKA KULISA „Više od igre“, scenariste Slobodana Stojanovića i reditelja Zdravka Šotre, jedna je od najgledanijih TV serija u Srbiji. Snimljena je 1976. u Ivanjici i Velikom Gradištu. To je priča o Gradini, izmišljenoj varošici u Srbiji tokom 1931– 1941, čiji poseban deo čini rivalstvo između dva fudbalska kluba – „Građanskog“ i „Radničkog“, čije je nadmetanje bilo i „više od igre“. U Ivanjici su snimljeni i filmovi „Čovek iz hrastove šume“, „Sreski špijun“, „Užička republika“, „Sok od šljiva“, „Berlin kaput“, „Točkovi“, „Poslednji čin – hvatanje Draže Mihailovića“, pa je Ivanjica jedno vreme bila poznata i kao „mali Holivud“.

junakinje jedne od njegovih najpoznatijih komedija „Gospođa ministarka“, zetu Čedi: „...ne bila ko sam ako ti ne odeš na viđenje u Ivanjicu“ – ima status kultne rečenice Nušićijade, koja se u obradi koristi gotovo na svim suvenirima festivala. Upravo ova igra reči pokazuje duh i domišljatost idejnih tvoraca Nušćijade – od izvornog značenja u kojem je Ivanjica bila sinonim za zabit i krah činovničke karijere, slogan „Viđen si za Ivanjicu“ pretvoren je u poziv koji znači čast da se dođe i čast da se tu bude viđen. SPOREDNA, NAJVAŽNIJA STVAR Smisao za stvaralačko „mešanje“ fikcije i stvarnih događaja dao je ovogodišnjoj Nušićijadi novi sadržaj. Noseća tema bila je proslava stogodišnjice ivanjičkog fudbalskog kluba „Javor“. Realni jubilej isprepleten je s pričom iz scenarija kultne televizijske serije „Više od igre“, koja je emitovana osamdesetih godina prošlog veka i koja je delom snimana u Ivanjici. Tema serije „Više od igre“ bile su političke prilike Football match between Radnički and Građanski

građanske Srbije od 1931. do početka rata 1941. godine. Likovi i zbivanja u izmišljenoj varošici živo su opisani, a odnosi prelomljeni kroz prizmu rivalstva dva ideološki suprotstavljena fudbalska kluba. U čast kluba „Javor“ i celuloidnih klubova „Građanski“ i „Radnički“ priređen je svečani defile kojim je otvoren Festival, a potom je na stadionu odigrana počasna utakmica nazvana „Više od igre“. Zaštitni znak festivala bile su jedna starinska kopačka i jedna dendi cipela. Stalni i počasni gost Nušićijade je glumac Petar Božović, glavni junak serije „Više od Igre“. Pored toga što je odigrao predstavu na „Smešnoj večeri“ u Domu kulture, viđen je gde sedi u kafani „Kod bankrota“. Stvarna ivanjička kafana dobila je ime po kafani iz TV serije. Fikcija i stvarnost nastavile su da se prepliću. JeLenA tAsIĆ mILenA mIHALJČIĆ Fotografije: Turistička organizacija Ivanjice, DRAGAn BOsnIĆ

ISTORIJA FESTIVALA Nušićijada je, prema rečima Miloja Ostojića iz Turistike organizacije Ivanjica, nastala iz turističkozabavne priredbe „Septembar u Ivanjici“. Održana je 1967. i pored „Malog sajma“ i muzičkog programa, na njoj je prikazana i revija domaćih filmova snimljenih po Nušićevim komedijama. Već naredne godine manifestacija je promenila ime u Nišićijada i postala jedna od najpopularnijih u bivšoj Jugoslaviji. Iznenada je, bez zabrane, uz prećutnu saglasnost tadašnjih organizatora, prekinuta 1972. godine. Smatra se da je glavni razlog bio ideološki „obračun“ tadašnjih komunista s vrednostima građanske Srbije koje je Nušićijada stidljivo promovisala. Festival je obnovljen pre tri godine i uspeo je da privuče pažnju gotovo 30.000 posetilaca. Godine 2011. Nušićijada je osvojila prestižnu nagradu „Turistički cvet“, koju dodeljuje Turistička organizacija Srbije u kategoriji „Specijalni događaj u funkciji promocije turizma“, te prvu nagradu „Turistička slagalica“, koja se dodeljuje u okviru „Susreta organizatora turističkih manifestacija“. Still from the TV series Više od igre (More than a game)

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

HOTEL AQUASTAR DANUBE

SUCCESS IN SPORT & CONGRESS TOURISM

Hotel and tourism company Plaža, whose portfolio includes the Hotel Aquastar Danube, pays special attention to the preparation of athletes and congress tourism. Aquastar’s guestbook has entries from the Serbian national football team players and Brazil’s male and female volleyball teams, as well as sportsmen and women from Peru, Greece, the UK, Romania, Austria and elsewhere. And when it comes to corporate “team building” programmes, there are hardly any major foreign or domestic companies that have not has at least one event organised by AquaStar.

quastar Danube is a high-class hotel located in Kladovo, on one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the Danube. The quality of the content offered by this hotel is summed up in its name - Water Star Danube. The hotel complex has a top Spa and Wellness centre with a saltwater swimming pool, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage room and fully-equipped gym. The hotel’s high quality and facilities have attracted individual tourists and organised groups of hunters and fishermen, athletes and corporate clients. By using the town’s existing sports halls, Aquastar has positioned itself as a desirable destination for sports training, with an impressive number of athletes having already stayed at the hotel. FROM SERBIA TO PERU When it comes to football, Aquastar has hosted the preparations of the Serbian national team and

AUTUMN | JESEN 2012 BelGuest

a club team from Bucharest. The list of athletes from the world of handball is slightly longer: senior women’s Serbian national team of Serbia, junior women’s Serbian national team and the men’s senior national team of Great Britain. When it comes to volleyball, Aquastar could be called the veritable world destination of volleyball. The following teams came to the hotel to prepare for competition: senior women’s national team of Serbia, men’s senior, junior and cadet national teams of Serbia, junior men’s and women’s national teams of Brazil, junior women’s national team of Peru, junior national teams from Italy and China, women’s senior national teams of Greece and the United Kingdom and cadet national teams of Austria, Portugal, Greece and Croatia. Athletes train at one of Kladovo’s sports halls, with the Jezero sports centre representing the biggest and best of the four halls.

TEAM BUILDING CENTRE Major companies, foreign representative offices, ministries, non-governmental organizations etc., there virtually doesn’t exist any major foreign or domestic company for which Aquastar hasn’t organised at least one gathering. Alongside intense training, be that sports training or team building, during moments of respite Aquastar organizes Danube cruises and visits to historical and cultural sites of the Gorge. In the immediate vicinity are many tourist attractions, ranging from the Iron Gate National Park to Lepenski Vir, Diane, Fetislam, the Archaeological Museum, caves, wine cellars etc. The Aquastar management “played the trump card” of Kladovo and the Iron Gate Gorge in the right way by creating a desirable destination for a diverse group of people with contrasting needs and interests. BELGUEST

INFO: Aquastar Danube Dunavski kej 1 19320 Kladovo, Serbia Tel.: +381 (0)19 810 810 Fax: +381 (0)19 810 800 e-mail for information: info@hotelkladovo.rs e-mail for reservations: office@hotelkladovo.rs web : www.hotelkladovo.rs www.odmornadunavu.rs

HOTEL AQUASTAR DANUBE

USPEH U SPORTSKOM I KONGRESNOM TURIZMU

Hotelsko turističko preduzeće „Plaža“, u čijem se sastavu nalazi hotel Aquastar Danube, posebnu pažnju poklanja pripremama sportista i kongresnom turizmu. U knjigu gostiju Aquastara upisali su se fudbaleri reprezentacije Srbije, odbojkašice i odbojkaši reprezentacije Brazila, sportisti i sportistkinje iz Perua, Grčke, Velike Britanije, Rumunije, Austrije... A kada je reč o korporativnim “tim building” programima, ne postoji veća strana ili domaća kompanija koja u Aquastaru nije barem jednom organizovala skup.

quastar Danube je hotel visoke kategorije i nalazi se u Kladovu, na jednoj od najlepših peščanih plaža na Dunavu. Kvalitet sadržaja koji ovaj hotel nudi sažet je u njegovom imenu – Vodena zvezda Dunava. Hotelski kompleks ima vrhunski Welness i Spa centar koji ima bazen sa slanom vodom, saune, đakuzi, masažere i teretanu. Kvalitet i sadržaji hotela privukli su individualne turiste, ali i organizovane grupe lovaca i ribolovaca, sportiste i korporativne klijente. Koristeći sportske hale koje postoje u gradu, Aquastar se pozicionirao kao poželjna destinacija za sportske pripreme, a broj sportista koji je do sada boravio u hotelu je impresivan. OD SRBIJE DO PERUA U Aquastaru su, kada je reč o fudbalu, na pripremama bile reprezentacija Srbije i fudbalski

klub iz Bukurešta. Lista sportista iz sveta rukometa je ponešto duža: seniorska ženska reprezentacija Srbije, juniorska ženska reprezentacija Srbije i muška seniorska reprezentacija Velike Britanije. Kada je reč o odbojci, Aquastar se zaista može nazvati odbojkaškom destinacijom sveta. Na pripremama su bili sledeći timovi: seniorska ženska reprezentacija Srbije, seniorska, juniorska i kadetska muška reprezentacija Srbije, juniorska muška i ženska reprezentacija Brazila, juniorska ženska reprezentacija Perua, reprezentacije juniora iz Italije i Kine, ženske seniorske reprezentacije Grčke i Velike Britanije, kadetske reprezentacije Austrije, Portugalije, Grčke i Hrvatske. Sportisti treniraju u jednoj od kladovksih dvorana, a sportski centar „Jezero” je najveća i najbolja od četiri dvorane. Velike kompanije, strana predstavništva, ministarstva, nevladine organizacije... Ne postoji

veća strana ili domaća kompanija koja nije u Aquastaru barem jednom organizovala skup. TIM BUILDING CENTAR Uz intenzivne treninge, bilo da su sportski ili korporativni, za trenutke predaha, Aquastar organizuje krstarenje Dunavom i posete kultuno-istorijskim spomenicima Đerdapa. U neposrednom okruženju nalaze se mnoge turističke atrakcije, počevši od Nacionalnog parka Đerdap, Lepenskog Vira, Diane, Fetislama, Arheološkog muzeja, pećina, vinskih podruma... Menadžment Aquastara je na pravi način „odigrao na adute” Kladova i Đerdapa i tako stvorio poželjnu destinaciju za raznorodne grupe ljudi, raznovrsnih potreba i interesovanja. BeLGuest

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

TurisTička organiZaCija srbije u 2012. goDini

SEZONA ZAOKRUŽENA USPEHOM

TourisT organisaTion of serbia in 2012

A SUCCESSFUL SEASON

he taste of success is the slogan under which all the prestigious awards that the movie created by the Tourist organization of serbia (Tos) “soulfood serbia – food for soul” won this year. following the success at the festivals “u.s. international film & Video festival” in Los angeles, the first international tourism film festival “Zagreb Tourfilm festival” in Zagreb, and “filmaT” in Warsaw and “forfesT” in bečići, this promotional film won two awards at the international festival in Veliko gradište siLafesT, which is held under the auspices of the international Committee of Tourism film festivals – CiffT. The movie of the Tourist organization of serbia was voted the best serbian tourism film, and it also triumphed in the category of culinary tourism films. Members of the jury were Terence Clifford-amos, chairman of the production company the 21st Century films, from London, and renata Meschuk, the producer best tourist film in the world in 2010 “styria - the green heart of austria”. “soulfood serbia” is the name of the marketing campaign launched by Tos for 2012, whose main topics is gastronomy as an important part of tourism in our country. This campaign promotes authentic serbian cuisine products, with particular emphasis on those that are or should be labeled with protected geographical indication. brilliant success of the promotional campaign “soulfood serbia”, this season is followed by another major international award for Tos. at the most important international congress tourism fair iMeX in frankfurt, as the representative of the european continent the Director of the Tourist organisation of serbia gordana Plamenac received the prestigious iMeX academy award for outstanding contribution to the development of the congress industry in the world. The gained recognition greatly helps serbia to increase visibility and regain the image of a reliable and competitive congress destination.

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

kus uspeha je svakako slogan kojim treba predstaviti sve prestižne nagrade koje je ove godine poneo film Turističke organizacije srbije (Tos) „soulfood serbia – hrana sa dušom“ nakon uspeha na festivalima „u.s. international film & Video festival“ u Los anđelesu, na prvom međunarodnom festivalu turističkog filma „Zagreb tourfilm festival“ u Zagrebu, „filmaT“ u Varšavi i forfesT u bečićima, ovaj promotivni film osvojio je i dve nagrade na međunarodnom festivalu siLafesT u Velikom gradištu, koji se održava pod pokroviteljstvom Međunarodnog komiteta festivala turističkih filmova – CiffT. film Tos-a proglašen je za najbolji srpski turistički film, a trijumfovao je i u kategoriji turističkih kulinarskih filmova. članovi žirija bili su Terence Clliford amos, predsednik upravnog odbora producentske kuće 21st Century films iz Londona, i renata Meschuk, producent najboljeg turističkog filma na svetu u 2010. godini „stirija – zeleno srce austrije“. „soulfood serbia“ naziv je marketinške kampanje Tos-a za 2012. godinu, koja za glavnu temu ima gastronomiju kao važan deo turističke ponude naše zemlje. Ta kampanja promoviše autentične gastronomske proizvode srbije, sa posebnim naglaskom na one koji imaju ili treba da dobiju oznaku zaštićenog geografskog porekla. odličan uspeh promotivne kampanje „soulfood serbia“ ove sezone prati još jedno značajno međunarodno priznanje Turističkoj organizaciji srbije. Direktorka Tos-a gordana Plamenac na najznačajnijem međunarodnom sajmu kongresnog turizma iMeX u frankfurtu, kao predstavnik evropskog kontinenta, dobila je prestižnu nagradu iMeX academy award za izuzetan doprinos razvoju kongresne industrije u svetu. To priznanje umnogome pomaže srbiji da poveća prepoznatljivost i ponovo stekne ime pouzdane i konkurentne kongresne destinacije. BelGuest

TurisTička organiZaCija beograDa

NOVI VEB-PORTAL I TV APLIKACIJA ZA TURISTE

TourisT organisaTion of beLgraDe

NEW WEB PORTAL & TV APPLICATIONS FOR BELGRADE TOURISTS

n early september the Tourist organisation of belgrade launched a new web portal for public advertising and search of the current tourist offer of belgrade, called “explore belgrade”. The web portal for advertising tourist operators and travel agencies is designed as a comprehensive and functional system that provides all stakeholders in the tourism industry with timely, adequate and complete information about belgrade as a tourist destination. The information is tailored to suit appropriate user profiles and is available at: http://portal.tob.rs/en. The purpose of the web portal is to improve the visibility of the current tourist offer of belgrade, getting up-to-date, reliable and publicly available information about the entire offer of the tourist industry in one place. The portal also meets specific requirements of travel agencies, tour operators and organisations, as well as foreign and domestic tourists. The portal has been set up in collaboration with the university of singidunum and the belgrade faculty of electrical engineering. following world iT trends, the Tourist organisation of belgrade, in cooperation with samsung electronics and Tehnicom Computers, presented the belgrade City guide application for samsung smart TVs intended for domestic and foreign tourists. in this way belgrade became the first city to receive a regional application of this kind. in addition to mobile applications that are available for all android devices, the project was extended to samsung smart TV sets, which will contribute to the information in belgrade and a great number of tourists while staying in our city. The new TV application is particularly suitable for hotels and hostels in serbia. The belgrade City guide application will show visitors where they can find the best hotels, restaurants, bars, shops and a variety of other useful information, with more than 650 pages including pictures and geo locations shown in google Maps, which allows easy orientation.

uristička organizacija beograda je početkom septembra postavila novi portal za javno oglašavanje i pretragu aktuelne turističke ponude beograda sa nazivom „istražite beograd“. Veb-portal za oglašavanje turističkih subjekata i ponuda turističkih agencija zamišljen je kao sadržajan i funkcionalan sistem koji svim učesnicima u turizmu nudi pravovremene i potpune informacije o beogradu kao destinaciji. informacije su prilagođene korisničkom profilu i dostupne na adresi: http://portal. tob.rs/sr svrha portala je poboljšanje vidljivosti aktuelne turističke ponude beograda, dobijanje ažuriranih, pouzdanih i javno dostupnih informacija o celokupnoj ponudi turističke privrede na jednom mestu. Portalom se ujedno izlazi u susret specifičnim zahtevima turističkih agencija, turoperatora, organizacija, te inostranih i domaćih turista. Postavljen je u saradnji sa univerzitetom singidunum i elektrotehničkim fakultetom iz beograda. Prateći iT trendove, Turistička organizacija beograda je, u saradnji sa samsung electronicsom i Tehnicom Computersom, predstavila i belgrade City guide aplikaciju za samsung smart televizore, namenjenu domaćim i stranim turistima. na taj način beograd je jedini u regionu dobio ovu vrstu sadržaja. Pored mobilne aplikacije, koja je dostupna za sve android uređaje, projekat je proširen i na samsung smart TV uređaje, čime će doprineti informisanju beograđana i stranih turista koji borave u našem gradu. Ta nova TV aplikacija posebno je pogodna za hotele i hostele širom srbije. iz belgrade City guide može se saznati gde su najbolji hoteli, restorani, barovi, prodavnice i razne druge korisne informacije, a korisnike čeka više od 650 stranica sa slikama i geo-lokacijom, prikazanom google mapom, koja omogućava lako snalaženje u prostoru. BelGuest

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

TOURIST ORGANISATION OF BELGRADE

TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA BEOGRADA

NEW TOB TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE

NOVI TURISTIČKI INFORMATIVNI CENTAR TOB

t the very heart of the city, at 5 Republic Square, a new Tourist Information Centre for Belgrade opened on 26th September. For the first time in the long history of the Tourist Organisation Belgrade, its information centre has gained a visible and well frequented location. “The opening of this centre will increase the quality of the tourism offer of Belgrade, because it is at a place where visitors might be making their first contact with the city and they will have the opportunity to receive complete information,” said TOB Director Dejan Veselinov at the opening of the centre. The opening ceremony was also addressed by Belgrade Economy Secretary Aleksandar Milošević and President of the TOB Board, Zoran Milenković. On the patio in front of the new information centre was parked an old fashioned classic bus, which set off for Banja Luka immediately upon conclusion of opening ceremony, thereby marking the start of the campaign “Next stop, Belgrade”.

samom srcu grada, na adresi Trg Republike br. 5, 26.septembra otvoren je novi Turistički informativni centar Beograda. Po prvi put u dugoj istoriji Turističke organicije Beograda, informativni centar je dobio vidljivu i frekventnu lokaciju. „Otvaranjem ovog centra biće povećan kvalitet turističke ponude Beograda, jer će na mestu gde posetioci ostvaruju možda prvi kontakt sa gradom, imati priliku da dobiju potpune informacije – rekao je na otvaranju direktor TOB-a Dejan Veselinov. Na ceremoniji su govorili i sekretar za privredu grada Beograda, gospodin Aleksandar Milošević i predsednik upravnog odbora TOB-a, gospodin Zoran Milenković. Na platou ispred novog informativnog centra bio je parkiran oldtime autobus, koji odmah nakon otvaranja krenuo put Banjaluke i tako označio početak regionalne kampanje pod nazivom„Sledeća stanica Beograd.”

TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA

TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA SRBIJE

TOURISM FLOWER AWARD 2012

NAGRADA TURISTIČKI CVET 2012

he Tourist Organisation of Serbia has awarded its prestigious “Tourist flower” award in ten categories for the 16th consecutive year. The award presentation ceremony was held on 27th September at the Tourism Fair in Novi Sad. The awards were presented by TOS Director Gordana Plamenac and went to: the Tourism Organisation of Čačak, the International Fair of Tourism and Rural Tourism in Kragujevac, Hotel Izvor from Arandjelovac, Restaurant Lorenzo & Kakalamba from Belgrade, rural farmstead Tri Hrasta from the village of Klatičeva, the Panacomp Wonderland tourist agency from Novi Sad, the publication Taste of Đerdap, the Kocka (Cube) souvenir, the National Museum of Valjevo and Radovan Tanasković. TOS also awarded a special prize to the Paralympic Committee of Serbia, the Strawberry Tree team constructing public solar chargers and the Zvonko Bogdan Winery.

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

urističak organizacija Srbije je, šesnaesti put za redom, dodelila prestižnu nagradu „Turistički cvet“ u ukupno deset kategorija. Ceremonija uručenja priznanja održana je 27. septembra na Sajmu turizma u Novom Sadu. Nagrade je uručila direktorka TOS-a gospođa Gordana Plamenac, a priznanja su dobili: Turistička organizacija Čačka, Međunarodni sajam turizma i ruralnog turizma u Kragujevcu, hotel„Izvor“ Aranđelovac, Restoran „Lorenzo & Kakalamba“ iz Beograda, seosko domaćinstvo „Tri Hrasta“ iz sela Klatičeva, turistička agencija “Panacomp zemlja čuda” iz Novog Sada, publikacija „Ukus Đerdapa“, suvenir „Kocka“, Narodni muzej Valjevo i Radovan Tanasković. TOS je dodelio i specijalne nagrade Paraolimpijskom komitetu Srbije, ekipi konstruktora javnog solarnog punjača “Strawberry Drvo“ i vinariji „Zvonko Bogdan“. BelGuest

MaesTro jeWeLLers

MaesTro jeWeLers

LUXURY IN THE CITY CENTRE

LUKSUZ U CENTRU BEOGRADA

ong-time representative for serbia and partner of the world’s most excluugogodišnji predstavnik i partner najekskluzivnijih svetskih proizvođača sive manufacturers of watches and jewellery, company Maestro jewellers, satova i nakita za srbiju firma Maestro jewelers preselila se nedavno na recently moved to a new sales point. novo prodajno mesto. at the new sales salon, which is equipped in a modern and luxuriu novom prodajnom salonu, moderno i luksuzno opremljenom po ous way according to strict international standards and located in strogim svetskim standardima, u centru beograda, u nušićevoj 12a, the centre of belgrade, at nušićeva 12a, you can expect the latest očekuju vas najnovije kolekcije i modeli renomiranih časovničarskih collections and models of renowned watch and jeweller brands: i juvelirskih brendova: audemars Piguet, Chopard, de grisogono, audemars Piguet, Chopard, de grisogono, iDC, raymond iDC, raymond Weil, ulysse nardin, Vacheron Constantin i Zenith. Weil, ulysse nardin, Vacheron Constantin and Zenith. u okviru tog prostora nalazi se i israel Diamond Center, izložbeni Within this area there is also the israel Diamond Centre salon i kabinet za dijamante, jedini na ovim prostorima. (iDC) showroom and the only cabinet for diamonds in kompanija israel Diamond Center ide u red vodećih svetski this region. proizvođača nakita, sa više od 50 godina iskustva. smeštena je u Company israel Diamond Centre is one of the world’s ramat ganu, srcu izraelskog centra za trgovinu dijamantima. ona svojim leading jewellery manufacturers, with more than 50 years of klijentima nudi stručnost vrhunskih eksperata, naprednu tehnologiju i supeexperience. its headquarters are located in ramat gan, the heart of riornu zanatsku veštinu. israel’s diamond trade centre. The company offers its clients the expertise of Maestro jewelers postoji u srbiji od 1990. godine i ekskluzivni je distribtop experts, advanced technology and superior craftsmanship. uter najpoznatijih svetskih proizvođača satova, nakita i pribora za Maestro jewellers has existed in serbia since 1990 and is the pisanje. exclusive distributor of the world’s most famous manufacturers INFO Maestro jewelers se preselio, ali će i dalje biti prvo i pravo mesto Maestro jewellers of watches, jewellery and stationery. za ljubitelje, poštovaoce i poznavaoce vrhunskih dijamanata, briliMaestro jewellers have relocated, but will still be the first and nušićeva 12a, belgrade jantskog nakita i ekskluzivnih satova. the right place for lovers, admirers and connoisseurs of premium Tel: 011 334 44 59 www.maestro.rs BelGuest diamonds, brilliant jewellery and exclusive watches.

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

CELEBRATION MARKING 15 YEARS OF SUCCESS

The British International School (BIS) appropriately marked the 15th anniversary of its establishment on 13th June this year. At an elite location – in the ceremonial hall of the Belgrade City Assembly – and in the presence of diplomatic corps, public figures, associates, friends and the media, school principal Aleksandra Keserović, M.A., summarised the key moments in the history of the school in her opening speech. The celebration of the jubilee also provided an opportunity to award diplomas to the 15th generation of graduates – they were handed by H.E. Mr. Toshio Tsunozaki, Ambassador of Japan, who wished the school-leavers much future success.

he British International School was founded in 1997, in a climate of severe political and economic hardship for Serbia. Thanks to the strong determination and enthusiasm of all of us involved with the school at that time, as well as later, BIS has grown in student numbers year on year and evolved into an institution of academic excellence. Having started as a small secondary school with its location at the 25th May Sports Centre, BIS now occupies two buildings in Dedinje and covers an age range of pupils from 4 to 18, said principal Keserović at the ceremony. Ms. Keserović especially emphasised the role of Dr. Jonathan Rider, the school’s first principal, who died too early, without having lived to see the fruition of his work. GOLD MEDALS AND HIGH RANKINGS The ceremony was a genuine opportunity to acquaint the public with the results achieved by the students of this school in strong internation-

Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

al competition: “This year, for the first time in the school’s history, four of our senior students, Katarina, Luka, Ilija and Ivana, have won their gold award within the prestigious Duke of Edinburgh Award programme. BIS students also achieved remarkable results in the online World Maths, Science and Spelling competition. In the group category, our Year 2 students secured 15th place in the world for science. In the individual category at the same competition, our secondary school student Marija took first place in Europe for spelling and is amongst the 100 best student spellers in the world. Our primary school student Louise came 4th in Europe for Science,” said the BIS principal proudly. PROMOTIONAL FILM HONOURS JUBILEE Celebrating 15 years of work, BIS recorded a DVD film in which every individual segment of the school’s work was presented. In a dynamic scenario, through the living word of teachers, parents and

students, as well as the school’s management, an all-encompassing image was shaped on the mission, curricula, teaching methods and atmosphere of the British International School. In addition to academic results, the children are encouraged to develop their special talent and abilities, which is an essential quality required by universities around the world. The school’s Deputy Principal, Mr Neil Howie, who follows the education process at all levels, explains in more detail the methods of working with children and the ways in which students are introduced to more complex and demanding educational levels. The school puts a great emphasis on IT technologies and extracurricular activities, while the whole school team believes that the key to their success and the success of their students lies in an articulate and well-nourished spirit of internationalism. BelGuest

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

SVEČANOST U ČAST 15 USPEŠNIH GODINA

Britanska internacionalna škola je 13. juna dostojno proslavila 15 godina od osnivanja. Na elitnom mestu – u svečanoj sali Skupštine grada, uz prisustvo diplomatskog kora, javnih ličnosti, saradnika, prijatelja i medija, direktorka škole mr Aleksandra Keserović je u pozdravnom govoru sažela ključne trenutke u istoriji škole. Proslava jubileja bila je i prilika za ceremoniju dodele diploma 15. generaciji maturanta – diplome im je uručio i poželeo buduće uspehe Toshio Tsunozaki, ambasador Japana.

ritanska internacionalna škola osnovana je 1997. godine, u klimi političkih i ekonomskih teškoća za Srbiju. Zahvaljujući čvrstoj odlučnosti i entuzijazmu svih nas koji smo u to doba, a i kasnije, bili uključeni u rad škole, BIS je iz godine u godinu imala sve veći broj učenika, i razvijala se u prestižnu akademsku ustanovu. Započevši kao mala srednja škola u prostorijama Sportskog centra „25. maj“, BIS danas zaprema dve zgrade na Dedinju i pokriva uzrast učenika od 4 do 18 godina, rekla je na svečanosti direktorka škole mr Aleksandra Keserović. Gospođa Keserović je posebno istakla ulogu dr Džonatana Rajdera, prvog direktora škole, koji je prerano preminuo, ne dočekavši da vidi zrele plodove svoga rada.

postigli u oštroj međunarodnoj konkurenciji: „Ove godine prvi put u istoriji škole naši učenici Katarina, Luka, Ilija i Ivana osvojili su zlatne medalje u okviru prestižnog programa Vojvode od Edinburga. Naši učenici su takođe postigli značajne rezultate na svetskom on-line takmičenju iz matematike, prirodnih nauka i engleske pismenosti. U grupnoj kategoriji, učenici drugog razreda osvojili su 15. mesto u svetu iz oblasti prirodnih nauka. U pojedinačnoj kategoriji naša učenica srednje škole Marija osvojila je prvo mesto u Evropi iz engleske pismenosti i nalazi se među sto najuspešnijih takmičara na svetu, a naša Louise, učenica osnovne škole, osvojila je četvrto mesto u Evropi iz oblasti prirodnih nauka“, pohvalila se direktorka Britanske internacionalne škole.

ZLATNE MEDALJE I VISOKI PLASMANI Svečanost je bila prava prilika da se javnost upozna sa rezultatima koje su učenici škole

PROMOTIVNI FILM U ČAST JUBILEJA Povodom 15 godina rada, BIS je snimila DVD film u kojem je izbliza predstavljen svaki

pojedinačni deo rada u školi. U dinamičnom scenariju, živom rečju učitelja i nastavnika, roditelja i đaka, te rukovodstva škole, oblikovana je jedna celovita slika o misiji, nastavnim programima, metodima rada i atmosferi Britanske internacionalne škole. Pored akademskih rezultata, deca se podstiču da razvijaju svoje specifične talente i sposobnosti, a to je suštinski kvalitete koji se traži na univerzitetima širom sveta. Zamenik direktora škole Neil Howie, koji prati obrazovni proces na svim nivoima, detaljnije objašnjava metode rada sa decom i načine na koje se đaci uvode u sve složenije i zahtevnije obrazovne nivoe. Veliki akcenat škola stavlja na IT tehnologije i vannastavne aktivnosti, a čitav tim škole veruje da ključ njihovog uspeha i uspeha njihovih đaka leži u izrazitom i odnegovanom duhu internacionalizma. BelGuest

BelGuest Jesen | Autumn 2012

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P R I M A

I n t e R n A t I o n A l

S c h o o l ,

B e l g R A d e

FIFTH GENERATION TRAVELS TO THE WORLD

Working under licence from the University of Cambridge, PRIMA School offers its students an education that opens the doors to renowned international educational institutions and universities. On 15th June this year PRIMA officially bid farewell to its fifth generation of graduates. With a diploma in hand, dressed in ceremonial robes, the graduands threw their hats in the air and so symbolically marked the end of one life cycle and the beginning of the next, which takes them to universities across the world.

e opted for the pleasant Julietta banquet hall to host our graduation ceremony. that extremely hot June day was completely devoted to our young people – their accomplishments, perseverance and success on their way to growing up. It was one of those moments when you may calmly stop and look back on what you have been doing for the previous years, as a parent or as a teacher, feeling fulfilled, because the children that we taught are on the right track now, says Jovana Božinić, a member of the management board and director of marketing of the school, speaking to Belguest. In addition to diplomas, special certificates were handed out for achievements in various fields at the graduation ceremony. It is well-known that, aside from remarkable academic performance, the school pays special attention to fostering the artistic preferences of its students. the prom night ceremony was an opportunity to show the selected

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annual achievements – the Julietta hall featured an exhibition of works by Sofija and Kunxin: two most talented girls from the PRIMA school. SUCCESSES AND TEMPTATIONS ON THE WAY OF MATURING “PRIMA has seen off the graduates of its fifth generation already and the school year behind us was a kind of roller coaster, with ups and downs, but at the same time it gave us a new and great experience. For us, the presence of a great number of parents at the closing ceremony is a source of inspiration and encouragement, especially for the teachers who deserve the most credit for the success of students and their admission to the desired faculty. We saw the pride on the faces of the parents and the whole ceremony was filled with emotions of high intensity,” says Božinić. After the ceremony the parents went home and the graduates took off their blue robes of first maturity to celebrate the successful completion

of one life chapter with music and dance. the words of Brigitte MacIntosh, the director of the PRIMA School, will follow them on their new and unknown academic and life road: “dear graduates, I am sure that you still remember your first day at PRIMA – it was exciting and a little scary. You had your better and worse periods, but in the end you made it! You are ready for the next step! Some of you are wondering what life at university will be like. It is a good thing to ask oneself, but it is also important to understand that the future is not something that happens by itself, it rests upon you to create and design it! I’ll be patiently waiting to see your creations! I shall take this opportunity to thank you for being part of the PRIMA family and to tell you not to rush into adulthood. Adults say that this is the most beautiful period of life, so don’t just rush through it!” BelGuest

P R I M A

I n t e R n A t I o n A l

S c h o o l ,

B e l g R A d e

PETA GENERACIJA PUTUJE U SVET

Radeći po licenci Univerziteta Kembridž, PRIMA škola pruža svojim učenicima obrazovanje koje otvara vrata renomiranih međunarodnih obrazovnih ustanova i univerziteta. Petnaestog juna PRIMA je svečano ispratila svoju petu generaciju maturanata. Sa diplomama u rukama, odeveni u ceremonijalne toge, maturanti su bacili kape uvis i tako simbolično označili kraj jednog i početak novog životnog ciklusa koji ih vodi na univerzitete širom sveta. t

a matursku svečanost odabrali smo prijatan prostor Julietta banket hola. taj izuzetno vruć junski dan bio je u potpunosti posvećen našim mladim ljudima – njihovim dostignućima, upornosti i uspesima na putu odrastanja. Bio je to jedan od onih trenutaka kada možete mirno da zastanete i osvrnete se na ono što ste radili proteklih godina kao roditelj ili kao profesor, osećajući se ispunjeno, jer su deca koju smo usmeravali sada na pravom putu – kaže za Belguest Jovana Božinić, član upravnog odbora i direktorka marketinga škole. Pored svedočanstava, na ceremoniji su dodeljene i posebne diplome za postignuća u različitim oblastima. Poznato je da, uz zavidne akademske rezultate, škola posebnu pažnju posvećuje negovanju umetničkih sklonosti svojih đaka. Maturska ceremonija bila je prilika da se pokažu odabrana godišnja ostvarenja – u

Julietta holu postavljena je izložba radova Sofije i Kunksin - dve najtalentovanije učenice PRIMA škole. USPESI I ISKUŠENJA NA PUTU SAZREVANJA „PRIMA škola ispratila je već petu generaciju maturanata, a školska godina koja je za nama bila je svojevrsni rolerkoster, sa usponima i padovima, ali nam je istovremeno pružila jedno novo i lepo iskustvo. Prisustvo velikog broja roditelja na završnoj ceremoniji za nas je izvor inspiracije i ohrabrenja, a posebno za profesore koji su i najzaslužniji za uspeh maturanata i njihov upis na željene fakultete. Videli smo ponosne izraze na licima roditelja, a čitava ceremonija bila je ispunjena emocijama visokog intenziteta“ – kaže Jovana Božinić. Posle završetka svečanosti, roditelji su otišli, a maturanti su skinuli svoje plave toge prve zrelosti

i, uz muziku i ples, proslavili uspešan završetak jednog životnog poglavlja. na novom i nepoznatom akademskom i životnom putu pratiće ih reči Briggite Machintosh, direktorke PRIMA škole: „dragi maturanti, sigurna sam da se još sećate prvog dana u PRIMI – bilo je uzbudljivo, ali i pomalo zastrašujuće. Imali ste bolje i lošije dane, ali ste na kraju uspeli! Spremni ste za naredni korak! neki od vas se pitaju kakav će vam biti život na fakultetu. Ispravno je pitati se, ali je isto tako važno shvatiti da budućnost nije nešto što vam se dešava samo od sebe, na vama je da je stvorite i kreirate! Strpljivo ću čekati da vidim vaše kreacije! Iskoristiću ovu priliku da vam zahvalim što ste bili deo PRIMA porodice i da vam kažem da ne žurite sa odrastanjem, odrasli kažu da je ovo najlepše doba života, nemojte samo protrčati kroz njega!“ BelGuest

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KULTURA CULTURE NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333 www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447, www.jdp.co.rs TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664 www.zvezdara VEčERNJA SCENA RADOVIć, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs

DEčJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIć, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715 www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 POZORISTE “PAN TEATAR”, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 298, www.panteatar.rs

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIčKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694, www.americancorners-sam.net

AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM/ ÖSTERREICHISCHEN KULTURFORUMS, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf

BRITANSKI SAVET/ BRITISH COUNCIL, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800, www.britishcouncil.org/serbia

CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270, www.czkd.rs DEčIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314, www.dkcb.rs/ DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442, www.dksg.rs DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453, www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 324-12-58, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs FRANCUSKI INSTITUT U SRBIJI/ INSTITUT FRANçAIS DE SERBIE , Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-654, www.institutfrancais.rs INSTITUT GETE /GOETHE INSTITUT, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 303-18-10, www.goethe.de/belgrad

GRAD - EVROPSKI CENTAR ZA KULTURU I DEBATU, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. 3282- 370, www.gradbeograd.eu

GUARNERIUS – CENTAR LEPIH UMETNOSTI, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807, www.guarnerius.rs

HELENSKI FOND ZA KULTURU/HELLENIC FOUNDATION FOR CULTURE, Kneza Miloša

POZORIŠTA – THEATERS ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 www.atelje212.co.rs BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.rs BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608 www.bitef.rs DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.rs DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel.2619-705 JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.rs

KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 www.kpgtyu.org OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.rs

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14, tel.3625-206, www.hfc-belgrade.com

INSTITUT SERVANTES/ INSTITUTO CERVANTES DE BELGRADO, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, www.belgrado.cervantes.es

INSTITUT KONFUčIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.fil.bg.ac.rs ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ ISTITUTO ITALIANO DI CULTURA DI BELGRADO, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.rs KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Neznanog junaka 32, tel. 3672 564 , www.iran.rs RUSKI DOM/ Русский дом, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178, www.ruskidom.rs REX, Jevrejska 16, tel. 3284-534, www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014, www.skc.org.rs ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550, www.kolarac.rs

KONCERTNE DVORANE - CONCERT HALLS ATRIJUM NARODNOG MUZEJA, Trg republike 1a, tel. 330-6000, BEOGRADSKA FILHARMONIJA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328-2977, www.bgf.co.rs DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 324-0242, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs DVORANA DOMA SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849, www.domsindikata.com KOMBANK ARENA, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, tel. 0900 110011, www.kombankarena.rs SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6000 , www.savacentar.net ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 262-6591, www.kolarac.co.rs

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ / ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888, www.etnografskimuzej.rs

KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE / THE RESIDENCE OF PRINCESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264, www.mgb.org.rs

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA / THE RESIDENCE OF PRINCE MILOS, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422, www.imus.org.rs

KUćA ĐURE JAKŠIćA / DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUćA / MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 KULA NEBOJŠA / NEBOJSA TOwER, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 11, tel. 26 20 685 , www.kulanebojsa.rs

MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE / SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ / NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, www.narodnimuzej.rs

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ / MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538, www.pedagoskimuzej.org.rs

VINčA ARHEOLOŠKO NALAZIŠTE / ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE VINčA, Belo brdo 17, Vinča, tel. 060/500-51-87, www.mgb.org.rs VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ / VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE / SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Đure Jakšića 9, tel. 328-7241, www.imus.org.rs

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ / JEwISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634, www.jimbeograd.org

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE /YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Botićeva 6, tel. 3671-485, www.mij.rs

MUZEJ BANJIčKOG LOGORA / THE MUSEUM OF THE BANJICA CONCENTRATION CAMP, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877, www.mgb.org.rs

VOJNI MUZEJ / MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 3343-441, www.muzej.mod.gov.rs IZLOŽBENA POSTAVKA NARODNE BANKE SRBIJE / NATIONAL BANK OF SERBIA NUMISMATIC EXIBITION, Kralja Petra 12, tel.3027-100, www.nbs.rs MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIćA / THE MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF JOVAN CVIJIć, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126, www.mgb.org.rs MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE / NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886, www.tesla-museum.org

MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ IVE ANDRIćA / THE MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF IVO ANDRIć, Andrićev venac 8, tel. 323-8397, www.mgb.org.rs MUZEJ PAJE JOVANOVIćA / THE MUSEUM OF PAJA JOVANOVIć, Kralja Milana 21/IV, tel. 3340-176, www.mgb.org.rs ZBIRKA IKONA SEKULIć / THE COLLECTION OF ICONS SEKULIć, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel 3282-504, www.mgb.org.rs ZAVIčAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA / THE BELGRADE CITY MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel. 2630-825, www.mgb.org.rs TEHNIčKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA /THE AUTOMOBILE MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 30, tel. 3034-625, www.automuseumbgd.com

MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA /MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla,tel. 2670-992, www.muzejvazduhoplovstva.org. MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE / MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850, www.muzejnt.rs

PTT MUZEJ / POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3064-170, www.pttmuzej.rs ŽELEZNIčKI MUZEJ / RAILwAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334, www.zeleznicesrbije.com

PRIRODNJAčKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAčKI MUZEJ - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2147, www.nhmbeo.rs

GALERIJA PRIRODNJAčKOG MUZEJA / GALLERY OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 3284-317, www.nhmbeo.rs MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE / MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149, www.sld.org.rs/sr/muzej

UMETNIčKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIčKE UMETNOSTI / MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654, museumofafricanart.org

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MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI /THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2628-920, www.mpus.org.rs

MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - LEGAT čOLAKOVIč / MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART- COLAKOVIC LEGACY, Drajzerov prolaz 2, tel. 3676-093, www.msub.org.rs

MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI / MUSEUM OF APPLIED ART, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494, www.mpu.org.rs

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - YUGOSLAV FILM ARCHIVE, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.rs

MUZEJ ZEPTER – ZEPTER MUSEUM, Knez Mihailova 42, tel. 011/328-3339, www.zeptermuseum.rs

IZLOŽBENE GALERIJE - EXHIBITION GALLERIES GALERIJA SRPSKE AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMETNOSTI - GALLERY OF SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES,Knez Mihailova 35, www.sanu.ac.rs GALERIJA BEOGRAD, Kosančićev venac 19 , www.galerijabeograd.org GALERIJA DOMA OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, www.domomladine.org GALERIJA FAKULTETA LIKOVNIH UMETNOSTI, Pariska 16, www.flu.bg.ac.rs GALERIJA FRESAKA / FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Uroša 20, www.narodnimuzej.rs GALERIJA GRAFIčKOG KOLEKTIVA, Obilićev venac 27, www. grafickikolektiv.org GALERIJA HAOS, Dositejeva 3, www.galleryhaos.com GALERIJA KULTURNOG CENTRA BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6, www.kcb.org.rs/ GALERIJA-LEGAT PETRA DOBROVIćA, Kralja Petra 36/IV, www.msub.org.rs GALERIJA NAUKE I TEHNIKE SANU / SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Đure Jakšića 2, www.sanu.ac.rs

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GALERIJA NEw MOMENT, Hilandarska 14, www.newmoment.com/beograd GALERIJA PROGRES, Knez Mihailova 22, www.progres.rs GALERIJA STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 8 GALERIJA SKC, Kralja Milana 48, www.skc.org.rs GALERIJA SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, www.galerijasuluj.org.rs GALERIJA 73, Požeška 83 a, www.galerija73.com GALERIJA ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, www.ulus.org.rs GALERIJA DOMA VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs GALERIJA ZADUŽBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, www.kolarac.co.rs JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNIčKIH DELA, Andrićev venac 4, Dositejeva 1 OZON, Andrićev venac 12, www.o3one.rs SALON MUZEJA SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI, Pariska 14, www.msub.org.rs UMETNIčKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIć, Mali Kalemegdan, www.ulus.org.rs VELIKA GALERIJA DK STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, www.dksg.rs

BIBLIOTEKE - LIBRARIES BIBLIOTEKA GRADA BEOGRADA / BELGRADE CITY LIBRARY, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202-4024, www.bgb.org.rs

NARODNA BIBLIOTEKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 2451-242 www.nb.rs

UNIVERZITETSKA BIBLIOTEKA „SVETOZAR MARKOVIć“- UNIVERSITY LIBRARY „SVETOZAR MARKOVIć“, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 3370-509, www.unilib.bg.ac.rs

BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI BELGRADE RESTAURANTS *skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079 DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885 IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422 ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750 TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501 ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 3066509 CANTINA DE FRIDA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 2181107 DAKA, Beograd, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 219-7423 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h nat DEVETKA, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783 DIVA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422

EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 3612-429 FRANŠ, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 2641-944 GINGER, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202- 822 IGUANA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 328-3749 KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 (live music) KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931 KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972 KOVAč, Bulevar oslobodjenja 221, tel. 2462-343 KUMBARA, General Ždanova 36, tel. 3906-877 LORENZO&KAKALAMBA, Cvijićeva 110, tel. 3285-351 MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332 METROPOLITAN GRILL, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140 NA ćOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 ORAč, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507 PIRE SLOw FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel. 2621-494

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RESTORAN 27, Istarska 27, tel. 2651-831 RUBIN, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3510-987 SOKAčE, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića bb, tel. 2625- 452 SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197 STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 TABOR, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464 (live music) TALAS, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 VUK, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 ZAPLET, Kajmakčalanska 2, tel.240-4142 ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651 (live music) ZLATNIK, Kej oslobođenja35, Zemun, tel. 210- 5565 ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 LA BARCA, Vase Pelagica 48, tel. 369-30-30 PORTO MALTESE, Ušće bb, tel. 2145-727 REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625 (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 (live music)

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS AMPHORA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2699-789 mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića bana 13, tel.3285-906 french cuisine

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BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIćA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 italian cuisine BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 italian cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojšina 6, tel. tel. 244 19 38, lebanon cuisine CASA, Makenzijeva 24, tel. 3860-866 IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 indian cuisine IPANEMA, Strahinjića bana 68, tel. 3283-069 italian cuisine FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 italian cuisine GASTON, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel: 32-85-811, italiana cusine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 sea food LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 italian cuisine PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 2181-931chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 italian cuisine TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 sea food VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 mexican cuisine

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.319-6369 , tel.063/7784-760 (live music) AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082

čARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467 (live music) KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel.. 3195-905 (live music) KOGO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226

HOTELI – HOTELS HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 METROPOL PALACE BELGRADE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69 , tel. 3333-100 PRESIDENT, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 SQUARE NINE HOTEL BELGRADE, Studenstki trg 9, tel. 3333 500 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235

BAH – BEOGRAD ART HOTEL,Knez Mihailova 27 tel. 3312-000 BEST wESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3095-505 BEST wESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3554-255 CRYSTAL, Internacionalnih brigada 9 tel. 715-1000 EVROPA, Sremska 1, tel. 3626-017 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 LIFE DESIGN, Balkanska 18, tel. 3626-090 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Karađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 NEVSKI , Venizelusova 24a, tel. 322-9722 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 PRAG - POSLOVNI HOTEL, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 321-4444 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 QUEEN ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 2645-422 SRBIJA GARNI HOTEL, Brankova 13-15, tel: 2633-323 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 2450-842 TOwNHOUSE 27, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. 2022-900 ZEDER, Vojni put II 164e, Zemun, tel. 3141-400, 3149-808 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel. 3314-800

BALKAN GARNI, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 BELGRADE CITY HOTEL, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 70 23 ELEGANCE, Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel.2075-000 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 3035-858 N HOTEL, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 NACIONAL, Autoput 5, tel. 2601-156 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 ROYAL, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 2626-426

SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 SLODES, Borska 92, tel. 3055-518 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 TULIP INN , Palmira Toljatija 9 , tel. 2259-813 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-361 BRISTOL, Karađorđeva 50, Belgrade, tel. 2631-895 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 OASIS, Novosadski autoput 75, Zemun, tel. 3166 302 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-842 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-507 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670

HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. ) 341 61 40, SUčEVIć M ***, Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4444 www.beg.aero Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel. 2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.rs

JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.com

Međunarodni železnički saobraćaj - International railway transport, tel. 360-2899 Međunarodni autobuski saobraćaj- International bus transport, tel. 2622-526, 2627-146

Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.rs

Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.com

RENT-A-CAR AVACO RENT A CAR, Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija, tel. 24 33 797, 34 48 981 AVACO – AERODROM NIKOLA TESLA, Beograd, tel. 22 86 434, mob.381 65 535 33 25, BUDGET, Antifašističke borbe 38, 11000 Beograd, tel. 311 3050 OMNITURS, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 - 0127 AXIOM , Bul.A.Carnojevica 66, tel. 761 - 0127 SKILL, Milentija Popovica 9, Sava Centar. tel. 311-3684 EUROPCAR, Bulevar M. Pupina, 10g, tel. 212 03 42 GET MOBILE, Zorana Đinđiča 45 v, 11000 Beograd, tel. 313 06 39 UTD, Sava Centar, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 20 5000 AVIS, Hotel Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, Beograd, tel. 313 96 16 HERTZ, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 20 28 200 SIXT, Žorža Klemensoa 19, tel. 328 7070

AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRwAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroflot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com

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AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000 www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrian.com BRITISH AIRwAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com QATAR AIRwAYS ,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879, www.qatarairways.com

QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166, www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Francuska 17/I, tel. 3035-738, www.singaporeair.rs/ž SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 3035-739, www.srilankan.aero SwISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 ,www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174, www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, www.thy.com DOMAćE AVIO KOMPANIJE AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel.2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRwAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel.3112-123, www.jat.com

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - wAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9811 HITNA POMOć - EMERGENCY wARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - wEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9823 MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAčNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .988 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of Internal Affairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.rs

ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vladete Kovačevića 14, tel. 2653-422 fax 2653-424 ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, 8th floor, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, 3031-964 fax.2635-606 Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593

BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 Odelj. za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120

BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057 Konzulat/Consular section, tel.3038-204

BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653

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BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454

CRNA GORA/MONTENEGRO, Užička 1, tel. 2668-975, fax 3699-546 čEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 čILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 GRčKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića bana 76, tel. 3341-507

GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566

INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363 ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel.3066-169

IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555 JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 3063-000 fax 3063-042 KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163

KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122 KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431 KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974

MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 3285-076 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 (except Wednesday)

MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013 MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 NAMIBIJA/NAMIBIA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 NEMAčKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400

NORVEŠKA/NORwAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336 PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085-216 POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576 PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 2662-894 fax 2662-892 REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Kosančićev venac 2/1, tel. 263-5911

REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229

RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798 RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3613-964

SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 SAN MARINO/ SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel. 2666-124 fax 3440-221 SLOVAčKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 ŠVAJCARSKA/SwITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 Odeljenje za vize/ Visa Section, tel. 3065-815

ŠVEDSKA/SwEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 (except Wednesday)

TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 2651-848 TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998 Konzulat/Consular Section tel. 2660-247 VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 2659-651 UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3639-803, fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201

NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE BEYOND REAL ESTATE, Despota Djurdja 13, tel. 292-0377 www.beyond-realestate.com CBRE, Omladinskih brigada 88b, tel: 22 58 777, www.cbre.rs COLLIERS, Bul kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 20, tel. 2663-863, www.colliers.rs

CONTINENTAL 100, Dobračina 21, mob: 064 1193671, tel: 3038662, www.continental100.rs EURORENT, Takovska 45, tel. 329- 3161, www.eurorent-belgrade.com DANOS GROUP, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 2600-603, www.danos.rs EURODIPLOMATIC, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, www.eurodiplomatic.com MENTOR REAL ESTATE, Mileševska 2, tel. 308-90-80, www.mentorrent.co.rs VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466, www.vosmediator.co.rs

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060, www.savacentar.net

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

TURISTIčKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS, Makenzijeva 26, t el. 2430-852, www.metropoliten.com EXCLUSIVE TOURS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3227-539 www.exclusivetours.co.rs MAGELAN CORPORATION, Novi Sad, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 021/6624-823 www.magelan.rs PAN EUROPA ADRIATIC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 33, tel. 3242-187 www.adriatic.co.rs

ŠOPING MOLOVI – SHOPPING MALLS DELTA CITY, Juria Gagagarina 16 MERCATOR, Bulevar Umetnosti TC MILENIUM, Knez Mihajlova 21a UŠćE Shopping Center, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina ZIRA, Ruzveltova 33

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ZLATARE - JEwELERS JOKIć JEwELRY&wATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAESTRO JEwELERS, Nušićeva 12 a, tel. 334-4459 VITANOV, Vasina 14, RK Beograd, tel. 2181 394 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990

USLUGE - SERVICES INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525 INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557, www.britinterschool.com

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Smetanina 12, tel.2666-669 , www.british-int-school.org.uk

CHARTwELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 www.chartwellinternational.org

DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135, www.dsbelgrad.com ÉCOLE FRANçAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762, www.efb.rs INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL, Nake Spasić 4, tel.2667-130, www.insb.co.rs INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.206 9999, www.isb.co.rs

PADDINGTON SUNFLOwER, English nursery, Belville, tel. 069-750-93, www.paddingtonsunflower.com

PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Kvarnerska 4, tel. 369-3060, www.primainterschoolbelgrade.com

Российская школа в БелгРаде, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 2163-883, www.serbschool.ucoz.ru

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIčKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923 BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIčKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIčKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIć, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIčKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122 PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC General Hospital, Koste Jovanovića 87 tel. 309-1000 BEL MEDIC Outpatient Clinic, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 309-1000 BEL MEDIC Dom zdravlja, Palmira Toljatija 1, tel. 309 -1000

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Autumn | Jesen 2012 BelGuest

KLINIKA PETKOVIć, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 MEDENTA, Novopazarska 14/1, tel: 344-0017 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808 SLODENT, Centar za estetsku stomatologiju, Lješka35, Beograd , tel: 3553-088 , 060/3553-088 VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436

SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIć”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RADNIčKI”, Tošin bunar 190, tel. 2699-119 OMLADINSKI STADION, Mije Kovačevića 10a, tel. 3291-514 BAZENI - SwIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.rs JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835 LEDENA DVORANA - ICE HALL PIONIR, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.2766-667 HALE SPORTOVA - SPORT CENTERS KOMBANK ARENA, Novi Beograd, Španskih boraca 20, tel. 2133-516 BG SPORTSKI CENTAR KOVILOVO, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 DOM SPORTOVA “PINKI”, Gradski park 2, Zemun, tel. 3160-270 CENTAR ZA FIZIčKU KULTURU “VRAčAR”, Sjenička 1, tel. 2452-342 CENTAR ZA KULTURU I SPORT “ŠUMICE”, Ustanička 125, tel. 289-4533 GRADSKI CENTAR ZA FIZIčKU KULTURU, Deligradska 27, tel. 2658-747 SRC “TAŠMAJDAN”, Ilije Garašanina 26-28, tel.3240-901 SRC “PIONIRSKI GRAD”, Kneza Višeslava 27, tel. 3542-094 SC “25. MAJ”, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. 2622-866 SRC “BANJICA”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 SC “VOŽDOVAC”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-780 SC “ZVEZDARA”, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 SC “KOŠUTNJAK”, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7555-461 SC “PIONIR”, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel. 2766-566 SRC “11. APRIL”, Autoput 2, Novi Beograd, tel. 2671-547 PALATA SPORTOVA, Pariske komune 20, tel. 2601-658

Restoran 27

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‫ﻥﻱﺭﺵﻉﻭ ﺓﻉﺏﺱ‬ Dvacet sedm Zeven en twintig Tjuesyvogtyve Tjugoyvå Kaksikymmentä seitsemän Syv og tyve Dwadzieścia siedem Twenty seven Vingt-sept Huszonthét Venti sette Двадцять сім Vinte e sete Двадцать семь Veintisiete Yirmi yedi Sedemindvajset Dvadsať sedem Двадесет седем Siebenundzwanzig Douăzeci şi şapte είκοσι επτά ‫עבשו םירשע‬

Restaurant -gallery 27, Istarska 27, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia Tel: +381(0) 11 2651-831, Fax: +381(0) 11 3692-079 www.restoran27.com, i27@eunet.rs