BelGuest Magazine by miroslav zeljug

Belgrade and Serbia Visitors’ Magazine

Volume 13, WINTER 2013

free copy

BELGRADE TOP ATTRACTIONS INTERVIEW MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ A WALK THROUGH ANCIENT SINGIDUNUM CITY EVENTS & SIGHTSEEING LITERARY GUIDE BORISLAV PEKIĆ

TOS RECOMMENDS ORGANIC FOOD SERBIA

IN THIS ISSUE / IZ SADRŽAJA 6 A WA L K T H R O U G H A N C I E N T S I N G I D U N U M

GOOD NIGHT, CENTURION CENTURIONU ZA LAKU NOĆ 12

12 BELGRADE TOP ATTRACTIONS 18 I N T E R V I E W - M A R I N A A B R A M O V I Ć

MY BODY IS MY HOUSE MOJE TELO JE MOJA KUĆA

26 I N T E R V I E W – D I N A J O H N S E N

LOVE AT SECOND SIGHT LJUBAV NA DRUGI POGLED 32 L I T E R A R Y G U I D E - B O R I S L AV P E K I Ć 26

FROM AN ATTIC TO THE STARS OD TAVANA DO ZVEZDA 4 8 S I E PA P R E S E N T S

IT – A PROMISING SECTOR IT – SEKTOR KOJI OBEĆAVA 5 2 I N T E R V I E W - O D I L I A S TO K V I S

DOING FOR A GOOD CAUSE DELANJE S DOBRIM RAZLOGOM 56

56 HIDDEN BEAUTY OF BELGRADE SKRIVENE LEPOTE BEOGRADA 76 TOS RECOMMENDS - NATIONAL ENSEMBLE KOLO

PERFECT CIRCLE SAVRŠEN KRUG

80 T O S R E C O M M E N D S - O R G A N I C F O O D S E R B I A

SOUL OF FLAVOURS AND GREEN LANDSCAPES DUŠA UKUSA I ZELENIH PREDELA 80

101 BELGRADE INFO

Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Gočka 18 tel./fax 2332-803; mob tel. 063/84 97 582 e-mail: office@belguest.rs, redakcija@belguest.rs www.belguest.rs Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.rs www.tob.co.rs Publisher - Izdavač: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Copublisher - Suizdavač: Dejan Veselinov, direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Jadranka Đorđević Contributors - Saradnici: Jelena Tasić, Jovo Anđić, Dragana Barjaktarević, Jovanka Veselinović, Olga Latinčić, Aleksandar Miloradović, Marijana Jovanović Photographs- Fotografije: Darimir Banda, Branko Jovanović Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković, Mark R. Pullen Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević English language editor - Lektor za engleski: Mark R. Pullen Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design&Layout - Dizajn i prelom: Miroslav Zeljug Print - Štampa: Službeni glasnik, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization Front Page - Naslovna strana: “Birds nesting in the walls of Belgrade”, Miona Stefanović, photo: Darimir Banda CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief Dragana Marković. - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Službeni glasnik). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

EVENTS International Tourism Trade Fair-ITTFA 21.-24. February www.beogradskisajamturizma.rs 14. Guitar Art Festival 12.-17. March www.gaf.rs Resonate Festival 2013 21.-23. March www.resonate.io 10. Belgrade Dance Festival 5-19. April www.belgradedancefestival.com CONCERTS Beyonce 15. April www.kombankarena.com Rammstein 28. April www.kombankarena.com Mark Knopfler 30. April www.kombankarena.com Andrea Bocelli 10. May www.kombankarena.com Depeche Mode 19. May Park Usce

E D I T O R I A L

U V O D N I K

Dear guests of Belgrade,

It is my great pleasure to inform you that the Protocol on the continued cooperation on the project City Break Belgrade has been signed in the Belgrade City Hall. This was initiated, coordinated and promoted by representatives of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade (TOB), but also by our business partners: representatives of Jat Airways, Belgrade Airport “Nikola Tesla”, twenty-two hotels and seventeen travel agencies. Thanks to this protocol, it will be possible to visit Belgrade, which has a rich tourist offer, at very competitive prices. A real opportunity to meet Belgrade, as well as other destinations in Serbia, will be the International Tourism Fair – IFT 2013 which will be held from the 21st to 24th of February at the Belgrade Fairgrounds. This is the largest event of its kind in the Balkans and South-eastern Europe. This year, when the 1700th anniversary from the Edict of Milan is being celebrated, apart from Niš where the central celebration will be organised, Belgrade will also host several important events. Next stop Belgrade is the new slogan under which the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade will present the city’s tourist offer in the country and abroad. Although we have a year behind us with a recorded increase in the arrival of foreign tourists by 7 percent and an increase in the number of overnight stays by 8 percent, we will give our best so that this year, 2013, also be successful and that many guests visit the city that offers a blend of traditional and modern, a special experience and special moments. Dear guests, to get around more easily you have at your disposal the mobile application Belgrade City Guide, on our webs site www.tob.rs, where you can select some of our interesting sightseeing programmes. Also, you can become our Facebook friend at the Visit Belgrade Facebook page and follow the happenings in our city, and we hope that you will decide to visit Belgrade again and to have it as your next stop a few times more. Also, I hope you’ll enjoy reading BelGuest’s interesting content. Discover the unique City Break destination! Make new friends! Dejan Veselinov, Director of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade

Dragi gosti Beograda,

Sa velikim zadovoljstvom vas obaveštavamo da je u Skupštini grada Beograda potpisan Protokol o nastavku saradnje na projektu City Break Beograd, čiji su inicijatori, koordinatori i promoteri predstavnici TOB-a, a partneri u poslu: predstavnici JAT Airways-a, Aerodroma „Nikola Tesla”, dvadeset dva hotela i sedamnaest turističkih agencija. Beograd koji ima bogatu turističku ponudu, zahvaljujući ovom Protokolu, biće moguće posetiti po veoma konkurentnim cenama. Prava prilika za upoznavanje sa Beogradom, ali i drugim destinacijama u Srbiji je Internacionalni sajam turizma - IFT 2013 koji će se održati od 21. do 24. februara na Beogradskom sajmu koji predstavlja najveći najveći događaj ove vrste na Balkanu i Jugoistočnoj Evropi. Ove godine, kada se proslavlja 1700. godina od donošenja Milanskog edikta, pored Niša gde se organizuje centralna proslava i u Beogradu će se održati nekoliko važnih događaja. Sledeća stanica Beograd je novi slogan pod kojim Turistička organizacija Beograda predstavlja turističku ponudu u zemlji i inostranstvu. Iako je iza nas godina povećanja dolaska stranih gostiju za 7% i noćenja za 8%, trudićemo se da i ova 2013. bude uspešna i da mnogi gosti posete grad koji nudi spoj tradicionalnog i modernog, posebna iskustva i nezaboravne trenutke. Dragi gosti, kako biste se lakše snalazili stoji Vam na raspolaganju mobilna aplikacija Belgrade City guide, naš sajt www.tob.rs, odaberite neki od zanimljivih programa razgledanja grada. Takođe postanite prijatelj naše Facebook stranice Visit Belgrade i pratite dešavanja u našem gradu, a mi se nadamo da ćete se odlučiti još koji put da Vam sledeća stanica bude Beograd. Uživajte u interesantnom sadržaju BelGuest-a. Otkrijte jedinstvenu City Break destinaciju! Steknite nove prijatelje! Dejan Veselinov, direktor Turističke organizacije Beograda

Skupština grada Beograda City Assembly of Belgrade

Turistička organizacija Beograda Tourist Organization of Belgrade

BelGuest ZIMA | WINTER 2013

W A L K

T H R O U G H

A N C I E N T

S I N G I D U N U M

GOOD NIGHT, CENTURION Joining the celebration of the great jubilee of Christianity – 17 centuries since the declaration of the Edict of Milan, the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade is promoting the city’s rich ancient heritage, and especially Holy Ermil and Stratonicus – the Belgrade martyrs who perished during the reign of Emperor Licinius. Belgrade today lies on remains of the once mighty Roman Singidunum, and by the number of ancient sites it is one of the richest European capitals. 6

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destruction and present them to the public, certain parts of the centre of Belgrade were placed under protection as the Antique Singidunum archaeological site. With a mere dash of imagination, you will be able to see the lives of forgotten antique citizens across Belgrade. Get assured in all this and set on a stroll down the Antique Singidunum, you might as well get lucky in that parallel portrait of the city, somewhere in the cracks of time to recognise the outlines and murmur of Singidunum. LUCKY FLAVIAN LEGION The first period of the Roman Singidunum is linked to the arrival of the Roman army and the conquest of the territory of today’s Belgrade. The Romans fortified their position in this strategically important section on the banks of the Danube and the Celtic Singidunum was incorporated into the Roman state and classical civilisation. Following the victory of the Roman forces against the Dacians and the forming of the Roman province of Dacia, the legion IV Flavia Felix found permanent residence in Singidunum. The stone fort was erected at that time, and its remains lie directly beneath today’s Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park. The large legionary encampment had a surface area of 20 hectares. It spanned the distance from the present-day Belgrade City Library, wherein the Roman Hall still contains visible remains of the Southern Gate, stretching all the way to the northwestern walls of the Upper Town. Generations of Roman legionaries passed through this gate on the Roman military encampment for more than two centuries, holding high the banner with an emblasoned lion – the symbol of the legion IV Flavia Felix.

Figurines from the collection of the City of Belgrade Museum

n his book “Belgrade under Belgrade”, Zoran Nikolić wrote: “In the basement of a house in Simina Street, which was once built by Serbian Minister of Finance Laza Paču, and which now belongs to his successor Aleksandar Vlaškalin, there is a tomb of a Roman centurion. Vlaškalinov’s friends charmingly say that before going to bed the benevolent host properly wishes a goodnight to the centurion.

But isn’t that the fate of all Belgrade residents?” Indeed, there is almost no place in the old part of the city where there is no testimony from the Roman period. Beneath the walkways of today, on the route from the Republic Square to the Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park, there lie Roman lamps, ceramic bowls, remains of waterworks, trenches, kilns, Roman graves, outlines of fortifications, hearths, etc. In order to preserve them from

MILLENIUMS OF FORTRESS AND PEDESTRIAN ZONE The camp of the legion was the core and the town settlement developed around it during the centuries to follow. The town grew in the region around present-day Knez Mihailova Street, its central street of Via Cardo corresponding to the route of today’s Belgrade pedestrian zone. Few remains of the castrum itself have been found to date. Portions of the Roman wall can be seen at the core of the north-eastern medieval fortifications of the Upper Town. In addition, the remains of the north tower of the Roman castrum were found at the base of Dizdar Tower, currently housing the Astronomical Observatory. The interior of the legionary camp, with its rows of legionary barracks and a street lying between them, provided for access to the walls and towers. Waterworks and waste canals were placed in parallel with the

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Part of the walls in which the remains of a Roman castrum were discovered street. A sword from the early 3rd century was found in one of them, representing a unique find in this part of the Empire. Three defensive moats outside the encampment prevented enemy intrusions. Numerous stone balls bear witness of the hurling devices used in defence. Swords, the remains of shields, armour, javelins and arrows illustrate the equipment used by Roman legionaries in everyday combat. TRACES OF THE PAST The Romans settled veterans from their legions alongside military encampments in order to further strengthen their borders. The veterans’ settlement expanded with time, growing by the initial addition of merchants, and subsequently others. The buildings of the civilian settlement covered the area from Pariska Street to the Republic Square, from Kosančićev, Obilićev and Topličin Venac towards the Sava, and Simina and Gospodar Jovanova Streets towards the Danube. This small settlement had all the elements that Roman cities boasted: a forum, located in Kralja Petra Street near the present building of the National Bank (as witnessed by The bust of Emperor Macrinus, 217–218 AD, City of Belgrade Museum

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altars and memorials for gods that usually decorated Roman squares) and public baths in the Students’ Park and Kralja Petra Street. Three semicircular walls made of modern materials on the piazzetta in front of the Faculty of Philosophy represent a replica of portions of these termae (public baths), their remains still lying there at a depth of around 4 metres. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILA OF SINGIDUNUM The two main streets stretched from the central square, where the roman forum with the civic council and administrative buildings was located, along today’s Vasina and Knez Mihailova Streets. The residential buildings of the antique city, likely more modest in appearance, lay there along with numerous markets. Kosančićev Venac was decorated by one of the most beautiful villas of Singidunum. Decorated by frescoes and mosaics it represents a typical example of the homes of reputable and wealthy citizens of Singidunum. In the immediate vicinity of the site, between the present-day Main Orthodox Church and the building of the Embassy of France, it is assumed that there were baths. According to the inscription on the plate that was unveiled there, it was built by a veteran

BELGRADE MARTYRS Holy Ermil and Stratonicus got killed in 314 or 315, during the reign of Emperor Licinius. According to the text of the hagiography, Ermil was a deacon in Singidunum and was brought before the court because of his faith. He was interrogated personally by the emperor, but Ermil remained steadfast. During the interrogation, it happened that a prison guard, soldier Stratonicus, publicly stated that he was a Christian. Both of them subsequently suffered severe torture and were sentenced to the same death: they were tied and placed in a driftnet and were thrown alive into the Danube. After three days the water had their bodies thrown on the right bank of the Danube. The Christians found their bodies, solemnly buried them, and later on they built a temple on the place of their graves. The Serbian Orthodox Church celebrates the memory of St. Ermil and Stratonicus on 26 January according to the Julian calendar.

way to Byzantium. There were inns (mansio) at bigger settlements along this road. There were 31 inns and 43 horse and carriage replacement stages (mutation) along the 630 Roman miles of road from Singidunum to Byzantium. The road connecting the mining settlements on Avala, Kosmaj and Rudnik was also significant. The bust of the emperor Macrinus represents an anthological work of Roman portrait art. It was found nearby a former road, linking Singidunum and Viminacium. DraGana marKOViĆ

in the memory of his deceased wife. With the development, growth and duration of Singidunum, conditions were made for the development of handicrafts. The found workshops for the production of ceramics near the National Theatre and in Gospodar Jovanova Street testify that this was the place where at the end of the third century, apart from tanners shops and workshops for creating decorative objects made of bone, there was a workshop for the production of dishes, while in Rajićeva Street a large oven for cooking was found. In Singidunum there was a strong domestic provincial art and craftsmanship, which satisfied the needs of the city. Significant traces of material culture – tombs, monuments, sculptures, ceramics, coins – have been found also in many villages in the outskirts of Belgrade.

Pannonia and Dalmatia, on a road stretching from the west to east, across Sirmium (Sremska Mitrovica), Singidunum and Viminacium, all the

Based on the guide book “Walk through Antique Singidunum”, published by the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade Photos: Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, National Museum

National Museum exhibition “Roman portrait” display in Barutana

LONG-LIVING FELLOW CITIZENS Compared to the relatively small surface of the urban core, Singidunum had vast necropolises surrounding it from all sides. It was Roman custom to bury their dead along roads. Graves of our antique predecessors were found all across the centre of modern Belgrade. The oldest Roman graves originating around the end of the 1st and early 2nd century, with the cremated remains of the deceased, were found in Cincar Jankova Street. Many headstones preserve inscriptions mentioning the names of occupants of Singidunum, their trades, age and social position. Based on these inscriptions we know that some of the citizens lived to the age of 90. Today about 20 sarcophagi can be seen in the area of the Belgrade Fortress. They were found in the excavations of the territory of the city, and objects found in them are kept today in the National Museum and the Museum of the City of Belgrade. CITY AT THE CROSSROADS Singidunum was an important intersection of roads for the Roman provinces of Moesia, Dacia,

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Š E T N J A

K R O Z

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CENTURIONU ZA LAKU NOĆ Pridružujući se obeležavanju velikog jubileja hrišćanstva – 17. vekova od proglašenja Milanskog edikta, Turistička organizacija Beograda promoviše bogato antičko nasleđe grada, a posebno Svetog Ermila i Stratonika – beogradske mučenike koji su postradali u vreme vladavine cara Licinija. Današnji Beograd počiva na ostacima nekada moćnog rimskog Singidunuma, a po broju antičkih nalazišta on spada u jednu od najbogatijih evropskih prestonica.

svojoj knjizi „Beograd ispod Beograda“ Zoran Nikolić je zabeležio: „U podrumu kuće u Siminoj ulici, koju je nekada sagradio srpski ministar finansija Laza Paču, a danas pripada njegovom nasledniku Aleksandru Vlaškalinu, postoji grob rimskog centuriona. Vlaškalinovi prijatelji šarmantno kažu kako dobronamerni domaćin uredno pred spavanje poželi centurionu laku noć. Ali zar to nije sudbina svih Beograđana?“ Zaista, gotovo da ne postoji mesto u starom delu grada na kojem nema svedočanstava iz rimskog doba. Ispod sadašnjih pločnika, na pravcu od Trga republike do Beogradske tvrđave i parka Kalemegdan, nalaze se keramičke posude, lampe, ostaci vodovoda, rovovi, peći, grobovi, trase bedema, ognjišta… Da bi se sačuvali i predstavili javnosti, neki delovi centra Beograda stavljeni su pod zaštitu kao arheološko nalazište Antički Singidunum. Potrebno je samo malo mašte kako biste dočarali život naših drevnih sugrađana. Uverite se u sve to i krenite u šetnju Antičkim Singidunumom, možda se i vama posreći da u tom paralelnom portretu grada, negde u pukotinama vremena, prepoznate obrise i žamor Singidunuma. SREĆNA FLAVIJEVSKA LEGIJA Prvi period nastanka rimskog Singidunuma vezuje se za dolazak rimske vojske i zauzimanje današnje teritorije Beograda. Rimljani su učvrstili svoj položaj na ovom strateški važnom delu Podunavlja, a keltski Singidunum se uklopio u okvire rimske države i antičke civilizacije. Posle pobede nad Dačanima i nakon formiranja rimske provincije Dakije, legija IV Flavija Feliks se trajno nastanjuje u Singidunumu. Tada je podignuto i kameno utvrđenje čiji se ostaci nalaze neposredno ispod današnje Beogradske tvrđave i parka Kalemegdan. Veliki legijski logor protezao se od Biblioteke grada Beograda, u čijoj Rimskoj dvorani su i danas vidljivi ostaci južne kapije, sve do severozapadnog bedema Gornjeg grada. Kroz ovu kapiju više od dva veka prolazile su generacije rimskih Icon of Saint Ermila and Stratonicus, City of Belgrade Museum

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BEOGRADSKI MUČENICI Sveti Ermil i Stratonik stradali su 314. ili 315. godine, u vreme vladavine cara Licinija. Prema tekstu žitija, Ermil je bio đakon u Singidunumu i zbog svoje vere izveden je pred sud. Lično ga je isleđivao car, ali je Ermil ostao nepokolebiv. U toku isleđivanja dogodilo se da je čuvar zatvora, vojnik Stratonik, javno izjavio da je i on hrišćanin. Obojica su potom pretrpela velika mučenja. Osuđeni su na istu smrt: vezani su i stavljeni u mrežu i živi bačeni u Dunav. Posle tri dana voda je izbacila njihova tela na desnu obalu Dunava. Hrišćani su njihova tela našli, svečano ih sahranili, a kasnije je na njihovom grobu sagrađen hram. Srpska pravoslavna crkva obeležava spomen na Svetog Ermila i Stratonika 26. januara po Julijanskom kalendaru. legionara sa visoko podignutom zastavom, na kojoj je bio Lav – simbol IV legije Flavija Feliks. MILENIJUMI TVRĐAVE I PEŠAČKE ZONE Legijski logor predstavljao je centar oko kojeg se u narednim stolećima razvijalo gradsko naselje. Na prostoru oko današnje Knez Mihailove ulice počeo je da se razvija grad čija je centralna ulica – Via Cardo – odgovarala trasi današnje beogradske pešačke zone. U jezgru severoistočnog srednjovekovnog bedema Gornjeg grada mogu se videti delovi rimskog bedema. Pored toga, u osnovi Dizdareve kule, u kojoj je danas smeštena Astronomska opservatorija, otkriveni su ostaci severne kule rimskog kastruma. Unutrašnjost legijskog logora sa nizom baraka i ulicom koja se protezala između njih, omogućavala je pristup bedemima i kulama. Paralelno sa ulicom postavljeni su vodovodni i odvodni kanali. U jednom od njih otkriven je mač iz prve polovine 3. veka, jedinstven nalaz u ovom delu carstva. Tri odbrambena rova izvan logora sprečavala su upad neprijatelja. Brojne kamene kugle svedoče nam o bacačkim spravama koje su korišćene u odbrani, kao i mačevi, ostaci štitova, oklopa, kopalja i strelica koje su rimski vojnici koristili u svakodnevnoj borbi. TRAGOVIMA PROŠLOSTI Uz vojni logor, Rimljani su naseljavali veterane svojih legija kako bi dodatno obezbedili granicu. Naselje veterana se s vremenom širi, raste sa doseljavanjem najpre trgovaca, a zatim i svih ostalih. Zgrade civilnog naselja pokrivale su prostor od Pariske ulice do Trga republike, Kosančićevog, Obilićevog i Topličinog venca ka Savi i Siminoj i Gospodar Jovanovoj ka Dunavu. To neveliko naselje imalo je sve potrebne elemente kojima su se dičili rimski gradovi: forum koji se nalazio u blizini zgrade Narodne banke u Ulici kralja Petra – o tome svedoče pronađeni žrtvenici i spomenici božanstvima koji su obično krasili rimske trgove – i javna kupatila u Studentskom parku i ispred Filozofskog fakulteta. Tri polukružna zidića od opeke na pjaceti ispred Filozofskog fakulteta, predstavljaju repliku delova nekadašnjih javnih kupatila, čiji ostaci postoje na dubini od oko četiri metra.

NAJLEPŠA VILA SINGIDUNUMA Sa centralnog trga, gde je bio smešten rimski forum sa gradskim većem i upravnim zgradama, širile su se dve glavne ulice duž današnje Vasine i Knez Mihailove. Tu su se nalazile stambene zgrade antičkog grada i brojne tržnice. Kosančićev venac krasila je jedna od najlepših vila Singidunuma. Dekorisana freskama i mozaicima, tipičan je primer izgleda kuća uglednih i imućnih ljudi. U neposrednoj blizini ovog lokaliteta, između sadašnje Saborne crkve i zgrade Francuske ambasade, pretpostavlja se da su se nalazile terme. Sudeći prema natpisu sa ploče koja je tu otkrivena, gradio ih je jedan veteran u spomen na svoju preminulu suprugu. Sa razvitkom, rastom i trajanjem Singidunuma pojavili su se i uslovi za razvoj zanatstva. Pronađene radioničke peći za proizvodnju keramike kod Narodnog pozorišta i u Gospodar Jovanovoj svedoče da se upravo ovde krajem 3. veka, pored kožarskih i radionica za pravljenje dekorativnih predmeta od kostiju, nalazila i radionica za proizvodnju posuđa, dok su u Rajićevoj ulici otkrivene velike peći za pripremu hrane. U Singidunumu je postojala snažna domaća provincijalna umetnost i zanatstvo, kojim su zadovoljavane potrebe grada. DUGOVEČNI SUGRAĐANI Značajni tragovi materijalne kulture – grobnice, spomenici, skulpture, keramika, novac – nađeni su i u mnogim selima u okolini Beograda.

U odnosu na relativno malu površinu urbanog jezgra, Singidunum je imao prostrane nekropole koje su ga okruživale sa svih strana. Rimljani su imali običaj da svoje mrtve sahranjuju pored puta. Po celom centru današnjeg Beograda pronađeni su grobovi naših antičkih prethodnika. Najstarija rimska groblja koja potiču sa kraja 1. i početka 2. veka, sa spaljenim ostacima pokojnika, otkrivena su u Cincar Jankovoj ulici. Na mnogim nadgrobnim spomenicima ostali su sačuvani natpisi koji spominju imena stanovnika Singidunuma, njihova zanimanja, godine života, društveni položaj. Na osnovu njih znamo da su neki stanovnici živeli čak 90 godina. Danas se na prostoru Beogradske tvrđave može videti oko 20 sarkofaga koji su pronađeni iskopavanjem na teritoriji grada, a u njima pronađeni predmeti, čuvaju se u Narodnom muzeju i Muzeju grada Beograda. GRAD NA RASKRŠĆU Singidunum je bio značajna drumska raskrsnica za rimske provincije Meziju, Dakiju, Panoniju i Dalmaciju, na putu koji išao sa zapada na istok, preko Sirmiuma (Sremska Mitrovica), Singidunuma i Viminaciuma (Kostolac), do Vizanta. Na tom putu su pri većim naseljima postojala prenoćišta (mansio). Na 630 rimskih milja dugom putu od Singidunuma do Vizanta postojalo je 31 prenoćište i 43 stanice za promenu konja i kočija (mutation). Značajan je bio i put koji je spajao tadašnja rudarska naselja na Avali, Kosmaju i Rudniku. Bista cara Makrina predstavlja antologijsko delo rimske portretne umetnosti. Pronađena je u blizini nekadašnjeg puta (selo Boleč), koji je povezivao Singidunum i Viminacium. DraGana marKOViĆ Priređeno na osnovu vodiča „Šetnja kroz Antički Singidunum“, u izdanju Turističke organizacije Beograda Fotografije: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Narodni muzej

Reconstruction of Roman Singidunum, illustration by Irene Paleček Radmanović

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

HIGHLIGHTS

Belgrade Fortress

Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park represent an open-air museum of the city’s history. The Victor statue, with its beautiful view over the rivers, is a symbol of Belgrade

City Centre

A pedestrian zone and shopping district – Knez Mihailova Street and Republic Square represent one of the most valuable architectural areas and liveliest parts of the city.

Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter

One of the city’s most significant old ambient quarters, it offers a great time at restaurants and bars offering music and national cuisine.

Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter

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CIT Y OF BE LGR A D E

Top Attractions Belgrade’s unique hallmark is provided by its two major rivers, the Sava and the Danube, its cosmopolitan spirit and the charm of its inhabitants. We highly recommend these must-visit places in Serbia’s capital: Belgrade Fortress, Skardarlija bohemian quarter, the heart of the old town, old Zemun, St. Sava Temple, the royal court complex, green oases around Ada Ciganlija lake, Topčider Park and Mount Avala, as well as the legacy from UNESCO’s Memory of the World Register. www.travel-belgrade.com

The Rebublic Square

Knez Mihailova Street

Photograph of Belgrade Fortress by Svetlana Dingarac BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

HIGHLIGHTS

City on the River Banks

A special treasure of Belgrade is its riverbank areas. Rafts, clubs, cafés, greenery, walks along the Sava and Danube rivers will give you a unique experience of the city.

St. Sava Temple

This imposing temple, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, is dedicated to a great man of Serbian history, St. Sava.

Royal Court Complex

The Royal Court and the White Court, which make up the court complex, bear witness to the history and refined artistic taste of the Serbian Karađorđević royal dynasty.

Topčider Park

The Court Park and oriental residence of great Serbian ruler Miloš Obrenović speak about the history of the liberation of Serbia. A magnificent plane tree is the park’s landmark.

Royal Court Complex

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TopÄ?ider Park

St. Sava Temple

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

HIGHLIGHTS

Ada Ciganlija

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The Archive of Nikola Tesla

Avala Tower

Old Zemun

Once at the very border of the West, old Zemun still evokes the spirit of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Gardoš Tower, with its panoramic views of the Danube, is a landmark of Zemun.

Ada Ciganlija Miroslav’s Gospel

Visit the “Belgrade Sea” – a beautiful river lake surrounded by woodland, with countless cafés, restaurants, bike paths and sports fields.

Avala

Avala Tower on the mountain of the same name is one of the city symbols. You will see unforgettable views of the city and its surroundings from the observation deck at the tower’s top.

UNESCO–Memory Of The World

The Archives of Nikola Tesla, the genius scientist who “illuminated the planet”, are in his museum in Belgrade. The oldest uniquely illustrated Cyrillic manuscript, Miroslav’s Gospel, from the 12th century, is preserved at the National Museum.

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

INTERVIEW - MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ

MY BODY IS MY HOUSE 18

WINTER | ZIMA 2013 BelGuest

Photo: Karić Foundation

Pain and death are major themes. Our transience especially. We have the feeling that we are here forever, while any moment we could disappear. The past has already happened, the future has not yet arrived, and the only certainty we have is that feeling that we are here and now. That feeling is the essence of performance. All my work is about how to think about the present, how to turn pain into a different kind of energy. Every morning when I wake up I think about death. And the more you think about death, the more you can enjoy life.

dhering to the concept that it does not matter whether art is beautiful or ugly, rather that it just needs to be true - Marina Abramović, winner of the Braća Karić Award for culture and art, has gained an international reputation. In the beginning she replaced painting with body art, insisting on the body language of dancers, acrobats, village wizards, Tibetan monks and shamans. The two main questions on the route to any creativity: who we are and why we are on this planet, she solved in her own way, discovering her purpose in performance art. Researching limits of pain, endurance of the body, but also the psyche - became the basis of her artistic performances. Born on 30th November 1946 in the Serbian capital, she lives and works in New York, although almost all the world has been her home at different times of her tumultuous artistic exploration. Because her body, she says, is her house. The beginnings of body art, through which she examines the limits of psychological and physical endurance, are linked to the Edinburgh Festival of 1973, when she injured her body for the first time during a performance with 20 knifes. She burned a fire around five-pointed star, burnt hair and nails, almost suffocated herself, and the audience needed a while to realise that she was not acting like she was in a trance, but was really unconscious. She has received numerous prestigious international awards: the Golden Lion at the Venice Biennale, “Bessie”, the American Critics Award, The City of New York Award for dance and performance and many others. Her works are included in many public collections of the world, and she has been a professor at various European schools. She synthesized her knowledge of performance in the Abramović Method with which she teaches selected young artists from around the world. Determined by destiny or shaped by individual energies, our lives unfold in different ways. What is that defined your life, making it just the way it is? This, of course, may be people, events, processes, choices, moments etc.

Marina Abramović, Relation in Space (With Ulay) (1976) Performance, 58 min., Venice Biennale - When I look back, I think I was very lucky that I perceived very early who I was and what I wanted to do in life. I had my first exhibition at the age of 12 and was jealous of Mozart, who began his creation at the age of seven. I really always wanted only to be an artist. And I knew that if I wanted to be an artist I would not be able to have what we call a normal life. Art takes an enormous amount of energy, while a person has only one energy core and can pursue only one goal in the right way, if they really want to succeed. First I started to paint, than I made audio installations, I very quickly brought my body into all of it. It was a difficult start. Nobody believed that what I was doing was art, my professors were appalled, parents criticized at the party meetings... The whole world was against me somehow. This fact only enhanced my strength, creating a sort of bastion of resistance.

What was it in performance that attracted you so strongly? - Peformance is a very special kind of art and it is very difficult to explain what it actually is. If I made an imaginary pyramid and layered art, I would place music at the top. Music is intangible and does not require intermediaries; it is the direct transmission of emotions. After music would follow performance, then all the other art forms. This is my subjective layout. Performance is a living art that involves the artist and the observer being in a time and place where art takes place. Performance is a matter of an immediate and concrete exchange of energy, the artist sends their energy to the audience, which returns it, then the artist transforms it and sends it back to the audience. If the performance is bad it produces that strange taste in mouth, a bad feeling among observers, who then become opposed to all performances.

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

But if the performance is good, it can completely change our lives. And to be good it requires top skill. Performance has never been mainstream. It is immaterial, there are no traces except what remains in us, it was always sort of no-man’s land. How to preserve performance, how to preserve its history, I think that’s somehow my mission now and I work on it intensively. On the path of self-perception, finding one’s own centre in life, you passed with a constant touching and moving of boundaries. Limits of pain, endurance of the body, but also psyche. How do you experience categories of fear, pain, transience? - I will answer you with a story. A few months ago I got a call from a famous science fiction writer inviting me to have lunch together in Los Angeles. His name is Kim Stanley Robinson. He wrote a trilogy about Mars and movies have been filmed based on some of his books. He gave me his latest book, entitled “2312”, explaining that I am one of the characters in this book and my name is Abramović. I asked him what I am doing in such a distant future. He replied: “The same as now, performance, on an asteroid in a space without gravitation”. I asked him why me, he replied that my art is so intangible that it could be easily transported on a galactic journey. Satisfied with the answer, I came back to New York. After a few months I went to Brazil to visit shamans, from whom I learn how to transform my energy. One shaman lady, who looks at stone circles and talks about the past and the future, said that I don’t feel at home anywhere, because my house is not on this planet. When I think about it a bit better, I really do not feel at home anywhere. She

told me that my DNA is solar in origin, that I came to Earth from another galaxy. I then commented then than I am surely an elien and she explained that I am here for a specific reason. I asked what my role is. The shaman lady answered that I am here to teach people how to transform pain into creative energy. I just want to point out that she did not know anything about me, which is why her words from the centre of the rainforest somewhere around the Amazon were even more unbelievable. Of course, I also often think about that. The performance Rhythm 0 from 1974 is remembered by many as the boldest step into the unknown – when you made available to the public and at your own responsibility – places seventy objects of pain and pleasure for them to do with you what they want. What was the essence of that concept and what did you hope to achieve? - The greatest gift to the audience is the artist, his body and soul. And that’s exactly what it was. The only thing I did not know was whether the public would keep that what they were offered or destroy it. It was a unusually bold action. The audience could have killed me. I came to the hotel after six hours, looked in the mirror and saw a wisp of completely grey hair. But everything that happened that night was extraordinarily important for me. I could feel, could see where were my boundaries, both physical and mental. That performance was spectacular. And yet, seemingly quite different, my latest performance “The artist is present” was far more difficult, maybe not physically, but certainly mentally. Sitting for hours opposite people who come and go, absorbing their energy and send-

Marina Abramović, Rhythm 0, (1974-2001) Table, 72 objects, slide projection, Modern Galerija, Ljubljiana

ing them your own, something like that I could certainly not have handled earlier, because I did not have that kind of concentration and awareness control. The visible part of that performance in “MOMI” is that you sat and looked pointedly at people in front of you for 700 hours. What happened between or within those looks, both in you and them? - I’ll tell you only that after the performance American and Russian scientists were very interested in my case. They proposed an experiment that measures the capacity of the brain, such an experiment we did in Moscow and the conclusion is that there are a strong and stable transmissions in my mind over a long period of time, which is very unusual. And within these looks, as you said, stood all my love for complete strangers, the effect was amazing. The eyes are the windows to the soul and when you look into the eyes of stranger without saying a word continuously, you go into their soul. Those kinds of meetings of soul with a look very often brought people to tears. You say that performance is neither theatre nor entertainment. That it is a serious business. In the theatre blood is ketchup, in performance it is all real. Is this a consistency to a concept that it does not matter whether art is beautiful or ugly, but that it just needs to be truthful? - I think that the artist should not have an easy road. If an artist has an easy road, if they are always happy in life, then I think they will not create anything noteworthy. Happiness is a state that does not change us. Creativity comes when you’re not happy, and when everything hurts you, when you are fighting against some injustice... Then the artist can work, from that material they can create something that has meaning. The basis of my work is my own problems that I am trying to solve. The only way to resolve them as an artist is to find a key that is universal – that everyone can identify with, feel, look at their own problems and find their own key to solving them. This is the only real answer of art. The artist is a mirror of society and has always been. I do not want to talk about the past, about whether I was recognised or not. About how I’ve always been the “black sheep” and then became white, then black, and how that constantly interchanged. All of that does not matter. It is important to always believe in yourself, do what you want. It is important not to compromise and to never sell your soul. DraGana marKOViĆ

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

Marina Abramović, Count on Us (2003) Video, 12 min., Belgrade

I N T E R V J U

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M A R I N A

A B R A M O V I Ć

MOJE TELO JE MOJA KUĆA Bol i smrt su velike teme. Naša prolaznost pogotovo. Mi imamo osećaj da smo zauvek ovde, a svakog trenutka možemo nestati. Prošlost se već dogodila, budućnost još nije, a jedino što pouzdano imamo jeste taj osećaj da smo ovde i sada. Taj osećaj je i suština performansa. Čitav moj rad govori o tome kako da mislimo sadašnjost, kako da pretvorimo bol u neku drugu vrstu energije. Svakog jutra kada se probudim pomislim na smrt. A što više mislite o smrti, sve više možete da uživate u životu.

ržeći se koncepta da nije važno da li je umetnost lepa ili ružna, već samo treba da bude istinita – Marina Abramović, dobitnica Nagrade „Braća Karić“ za kulturu i umetnost stekla je međunarodni ugled. Slikarstvo je na svojim počecima zamenila body-artom, insistirajući na jeziku tela igrača, akrobata, seoskih vračeva, tibetanskih kaluđera i šamana. Dva osnovna pitanja na putu svake kreativnosti: ko smo i zašto smo na ovoj planeti, razrešila je na sebi svojstven način, otkrivajući u umetnosti performansa svoju svrhu. Istraživanja granice bola, izdržljivosti tela ali i

psihe – postala su osnova njenih umetničkih performansa. Rođena je 30. novembra 1946. u prestonici Srbije, živi i radi u Njujorku, mada je gotovo ceo svet bio njen dom u različitim vremenima njenog burnog umetničkog traganja. Jer njeno telo je, kako kaže – njena kuća. Počeci body-arta u kome ispituje granice psihofizičke izdržljivost vezuju se za festival u Edinburgu 1973, kada je u performansu sa dvadeset noževa sebi prvi put nanela telesne povrede. Palila je vatru oko zvezde petokrake, spaljivala kosu i nokte, umalo se nije ugušila, a publici je trebalo

vremena da shvati kako ona ne glumi trans, već je zaista ostala bez svesti. Dobitnica je brojnih uglednih međunarodnih priznanja: Zlatnog lava na Bijenalu u Veneciji, „Besi“, „Nagrade udruženja američkih kritičara“, „Nagrade grada Njujorka za igru i performans“ i mnogih drugih. Njena dela uključena su u mnoge svetske javne kolekcije, a bila je i profesor na raznim visokim evropskim školama. Svoje znanje performansa sintetizovala je u Abramović metodu kojim podučava izabrane mlade umetnike iz celog sveta.

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

Marina Abramović, Art Must be Beautiful, Artist Must be Beautiful (1975) Performance, 1 hr., Charlottenburg Art Festival, Copenhagen

Sudbinom određeni ili pojedinačnim energijama oblikovani, naši životi protiču na različite načine. Šta je to što je odredilo Vaš život, što ga je učinilo baš ovakvim kakav jeste? To, naravno, mogu biti ljudi, događaji, procesi, izbori, trenuci.. - Kad pogledam unazad, mislim da sam bila veoma srećna što sam vrlo rano spoznala ko sam i šta želim da radim u životu. Prvu izložbu imala sam sa 12 godina i bila ljubomorna na Mocarta, koji je svoje stvaranje počeo sa sedam. Stvarno sam uvek želela jedino da budem umetnik. I znala sam da ako želim da budem umetnik, neću moći da imam to što zovemo normalan život. Umetnost oduzima ogromnu količinu energije, a čovek ima samo jedno energetsko jezgro i na pravi način može da se posveti samo jednom cilju ako zaista želi da uspe. Najpre sam počela da slikam, onda sam pravila zvučne instalacije, u sve to vrlo brzo sam unela i svoje telo. To je bio težak početak. Niko nije verovao da je to što radim umetnost, moji profesori su bili zaprepašćeni, roditelji kritikovani na partijskim sastancima... Ceo svet je nekako bio protiv mene. A ta činjenica je u meni samo pojačala snagu, stvorila svojevrsni bastion otpora.

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

Šta je to u performansu što Vas je tako snažno privuklo? - Performans je veoma posebna vrsta umetnosti, teško je objasniti šta je to u stvari. Kada bih napravila imaginarnu piramidu i poređala umetnosti, na sam vrh postavila bih muziku. Muzika je tako nematerijalna, ona ne traži posrednike, ona je direktna transmisija emocije. Posle muzike usledio bi performans, a onda sve ostale umetnosti. To je neki moj subjektivni raspored. Performans je živa umetnost, koja podrazumeva da umetnik i posmatrač moraju biti u vremenu i na mestu gde se ta umetnost dešava. Performans je stvar trenutne i konkretne razmene energije, umetnik šalje publici svoju energiju, ona mu je vraća, a on je transformiše i ponovo vraća publici. Ako je performans loš, proizvodi onaj čudan ukus u ustima, loš osećaj kod posmatrača, koji onda bivaju protiv svih performansa. Ali ako je performans dobar, može potpuno da nam promeni život. A da bi bio dobar, potrebno je vrhunsko umeće. Performans nikada nije bio mejnstrim, on je nematerijalan, nema tragova sem onog što ostane u nama, on je uvek bio nekako ničija teritorija. Kako sačuvati performans, kako sačuvati njegovu istoriju, mislim da je to sada nekako moja misija, i na tome intenzivno radim.

Put samospoznaje, nalaženja sopstvenog centra u životu prešli ste neprestanim opipavanjem i pomeranjem granica. Granica bola, izdržljivosti tela ali i psihe. Kako doživljavate kategorije straha, bola, prolaznosti? - Odgovoriću vam jednom pričom. Pre nekoliko meseci dobila sam poziv čuvenog pisca naučne fantastike da zajedno ručamo u Los Anđelesu. On se zove Kim Stenli Robinson, napisao je trilogiju o Marsu, a po nekim njegovim knjigama snimljeni su i filmovi. Poklonio mi je svoju najnoviju knjigu, čiji je naslov „2312“, uz objašnjenje da sam ja jedan od likova u toj knjizi i zovem se Abramović. Pitala sam ga šta ja radim u tako dalekoj budućnosti. Odgovorio mi je: „Isto što i sada, performans, na asteroidu u bezgravitacionom prostoru.“ Pitala sam ga zašto baš ja. Odgovorio je da je moja umetnost toliko nematerijalna da ju je veoma lako transportovati na galaktička putovanja. Zadovoljna odgovorom vratila sam se u Njujork. Posle nekoliko meseci otišla sam u Brazil da posetim šamane od kojih učim kako da transformišem svoju energiju. Jedna šamanka, koja gledajući u krugove kamenja govori o prošlosti i budućnosti, rekla mi je da se nigde ne osećam kao kod kuće, jer moja kuća i nije na ovoj

planeti. Kada malo bolje razmislim, ja se zaista nigde ne osećam kao kod svoje kuće. Rekla mi je i da je moja DNK solarnog porekla, da na Zemlju dolazim iz neke druge galaksije. Prokomentarisala sam da sam onda sigurno elijen, a ona je objasnila i da sam ovde sa posebnim razlogom. Šta je moja uloga, pitala sam. Šamanka je odgovorila da sam ovde da naučim ljude da transformišu bol u kreativnu energiju. Samo želim da naglasim da ona nije znala ništa o meni, zato su njene reči iz središta džungle negde oko Amazona bile još neverovatnije. Naravno da o tome i sama često razmišljam. Performans Ritam 0 iz 1974. mnogi pamte kao najsmeliji iskorak u nepoznato – kada ste publici na raspolaganje i na svoju ličnu odgovornost – stavili sedamdesetak predmeta za bol i uživanje da njima na Vama čine šta im je volja. Šta je bila suština tog koncepta, šta ste hteli da postignete? - Najveći poklon publici je umetnik, njegovo telo i duša. I to je tačno to i bilo. Jedino nisam znala da li će publika sačuvati to što im je ponuđeno ili uništiti. To jeste bio neobično smeo postupak. Publika je mogla da me ubije. Posle šest sati došla sam u hotel, pogledala se u ogledalo i ugledala veliki pramen potpuno sede kose. Ali je sve što se dešavalo te večeri bilo neobično važno za mene. Mogla sam da osetim, da vidim gde su moje

granice, fizičke i mentalne. Taj performans bio je spektakularan. A opet, naizgled sasvim drugačiji, moj najnoviji performans „Umetnik je prisutan“ bio je daleko teži, možda ne fizički ali mentalno svakako. Sedeti satima preko puta ljudi koji se smenjuju, upijati njihovu energiju, a slati im svoju, tako nešto ranije sasvim sigurno ne bih mogla da izdržim, jer nisam imala tu koncentraciju i takvu kontrolu svesti. Vidljiv deo tog performansa u „MOMI“ je da ste 700 sati sedeli pogleda prikovanog u ljude preko puta sebe. Šta se dešavalo između ili unutar tih pogleda, u Vama i njima? - Samo ću reći da su se posle tog performansa američki i ruski naučnici veoma zainteresovali za moj slučaj. Predložili su mi eksperiment koji meri kapacitet mozga. Takav eksperiment smo uradili u Moskvi i zaključak je da u mom mozgu postoje snažna stabilna emitovanja u dugom vremenu, što je veoma neobično. A unutar tih pogleda, kako ste rekli, stala je sva moja ljubav prema potpunim strancima, efekat je bio neverovatan. Oči su ogledalo duše, a kada bez reči neprekidno gledaš u oči strancu, ti ulaziš u njegovu dušu. Takvi susreti duša pogledom često su ljude dovodili do suza. Kažete da performans nije pozorište, ni zabava. To je ozbiljan posao. U pozorištu krv je

kečap, u performansu sve je stvarno. Da li je to doslednost konceptu da nije važno da li je umetnost lepa ili ružna, već samo treba da je istinita? - Mislim da umetnik ne treba da ima lak put. Ako ima lak put, ako je uvek srećan u životu, mislim da onda ništa vredno pažnje neće stvoriti. Sreća je stanje koje nas ne menja. Kreativnost dolazi kada nisi srećan, kad te sve boli, kada se boriš protiv neke nepravde... Onda umetnik može da radi, iz tog materijala može da stvori nešto što ima značaj. U osnovi mog rada jesu moji lični problemi koje pokušavam da razrešim. Jedini način da ih razrešim kao umetnik jeste da nađem ključ koji je univerzalan – da svako može da se poistoveti, da oseti, da sagleda sopstvene probleme i nađe svoj ključ za razrešenje. To je jedini pravi odgovor umetnosti. Umetnik je ogledalo društva, to je uvek bio. Ne želim da govorim o prošlosti, o tome da li sam bila priznata ili nisam. O tome kako sam uvek bila „crna ovca“ a onda postajala bela, pa crna, i to se neprestano smenjivalo. To sve nije važno. Važno je uvek verovati u sebe, raditi ono što želiš, važno je ne praviti kompromise i nikako ne prodati svoju dušu. DraGana marKOViĆ

Marina Abramović, Relation in Time (With Ulay) (1977) Photographic documentation of a performance 17 hr., Studio G7, Bologna

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

I Z L O Ž B E

YUGOSLAVIA: FROM START TO FINISH

E X H I B I T I O N S JUGOSLAVIJA: OD POČETKA DO KRAJA

1st December 2012 – 3rd March 2013, Yugoslav History Museum

1. decembar 2012. – 3. mart 2013, Muzej istorije Jugoslavije

I.D. CARD OF YUGOSLAVIA

LIČNA KARTA JUGOSLAVIJE

his exhibition is devoted to a country that repeatedly appeared and disappeared, only to finally disappear from geographical and political maps of the world at the end of the 20th century. Even today her legacy strongly influences the lives of people from this area. Through six main sections the people of Yugoslavia, the regime, the economy, society and relations with the outside world are all presented. Info: www.mij.rs

FROM DUSK ‘TIL DAWN

zložba je posvećena zemlji koja je više puta nastajala i nestajala, da bi krajem 20. veka konačno nestala sa geografske i političke mape sveta. Njeno nasleđe ipak i danas snažno utiče na živote ljudi sa ovog prostora. U šest glavnih celina predstavljeni su narodi Jugoslavije, režim, ekonomija, društvo i odnosi sa svetom. Info: www.mij.rs

OD SUMRAKA DO SVITANJA

23rd January – June, Natural History Museum

23. januar – jun, Prirodnjački muzej

SECRET NIGHTLIFE

TAJNI NOĆNI ŽIVOT

ark Raković’s exhibition From Dusk ‘Til Dawn presents more than 50 different species of nocturnal animals from the collections of the Natural History Museum, mostly from our area, including birds, mammals, amphibians, reptiles and many insects. The exhibition explains how and why the animals were originally active during the day, but have changed during evolution and opted for a secret nocturnal life. Info: www.nhmbeo.rs

SOCIAL GRAPHICS – BETWEEN PROPOGANDA AND ARTISTIC IMPRESSION

25th January – 10th March, Museum of Contemporary Art (Gallery legacy of Milica Zorić and Rodoljub Čolaković)

ENGRAVINGS OF TROUBLED TIMES

he 1920s and 30s were a period of great social and political turmoil. In such circumstances a lot of socially engaged art emerged, and graphics as an artistic medium underwent its most significant climb. The exhibition consists of about 70 graphic works of famous artists: Đorđe Andrejević Kuna, Mirko Kujačić, Piva Karamatijević, Ivan Tabaković, Sergij Glumac, Krsto Hegedušić and others. Info: www.msub.org.rs

WINTER | ZIMA 2013 BelGuest

a izložbi Marka Rakovića „Od sumraka do svitanja“ predstavljeno je više od 50 različitih vrsta noćnih životinja iz zbirki Prirodnjačkog muzeja, uglavnom sa naših područja, među kojima su ptice, sisari, vodozemci i gmizavci, te mnogi insekti. Izložbom se objašnjava kako i zašto su životinje, prvobitno aktivne danju, tokom evolucije promenile izbor i odabrale tajni noćni život. Info: www.nhmbeo.rs

SOCIJALNA GRAFIKA – IZMEĐU PROPAGANDE I LIKOVNOG IZRAZA

25. januar – 10. mart, Muzej savremene umetnosti (Galerija legat Milice Zorić i Rodoljuba Čolakovića)

GRAVIRA UZNEMIRENOG VREMENA

vadesete i tridesete gоdinе 20. vеkа bile su pеriоd velikih društvenih i političkih previranja. U takvim okolnostima došlo je do ekspanzije socijalno angažovane umetnosti, a grafika kао umetnički medij doživela je najznačajniji uspon. Na izložbi je predstavljeno оkо 70 grafičkih ostvarenja poznatih umetnika: Đorđa Andrejevića Kuna, Mirka Kujačića, Piva Karamatijevića, Ivana Tabakovića, Sergija Glumca, Krste Hegedušića i drugih. Info: www.msub.org.rs

I Z L O Ž B E ADVERTISING AND DESIGN AT THE DAWN OF THE 20TH CENTURY

E X H I B I T I O N S REKLAMA I DIZAJN U OSVIT 20. VEKA

14th February – 14th March, Museum of Applied Arts in Belgrade

14. februar - 14. mart, Muzej primenjene umetnosti Beograd

RETRO MARKETING

overs of design will have the opportunity to review the work of one of the pioneers of advertising in the early 20th century. A retrospective exhibition of works by Lucian Bernhard was designed as the first in a series of exhibitions that aims to acquaint the audience with creative icons from the world of design. The significance of this exhibition is greater as it is the world’s first retrospective of Lucian Bernhard’s creativity. Info: www.mpu.rs

TO BE CONTINUED

jubitelji dizajna biće u prilici da sagledaju delo jednog od pionira oglašavanja s početka 20. veka. Retrospektivna izložba radova Lucijana Bernharda koncipirana je kao prva u nizu izložbi čiji je cilj da se publika upozna sa stvaralaštvom ikona iz sveta dizajna. Značaj ove izložbe tim je veći što predstavlja prvu svetsku retrospektivu stvaralaštva Lucijana Bernharda. Info: www.mpu.rs

NASTAVLJA SE

26th February – 13th April, Institut Francais

26. februar – 13. april, Francuski institut

THERE’S SOME SECRET CONNECTION

IMA NEKA TAJNA VEZA

he connection between Serbian and French cartoonists began in 1986. Since then three generations have worked with French publishers. The original table of Serbian artists from the past three decades will be presented as part of the retrospective exhibition “It Continues”. Info: www.institutfrancais.rs

OPEN MARKET

eza između srpskih i francuskih strip autora počela je još 1986. godine. Od tada su tri generacije radile sa francuskim izdavačima. Originalne table srpskih umetnika iz prethodne tri decenije biće predstavljene u okviru retrospektivne izložbe „Nastavlja se“. Info: www.institutfrancais.rs

OPEN MARKET

13th – 27th March, Gallery ULUS

13–27. mart, Galerija ULUS

BUVLJAK IS IN

BUVLJAK JE U MODI

he Belgrade flea market has served as inspiration for the painter Stjepan Mimica. The aim of the exhibition is to among visitors reaffirm the discarded and develop awareness of the importance of preserving the environment. The Flea market, Buvljak, has also inspired senior students of the Higher Healthcare schools and Higher Textile School of Design, Technology and Management in Belgrade to make creations out of recycled materials. Unusual items of clothing will feature on 20th March at a show “Open market fashion” during the Eve of Spring events. Info: www.ulus-art.org

eogradska buvlja pijaca poslužila je kao inspiracija slikaru Stjepanu Mimici. Cilj izložbe je da se kod posetilaca reafirmacijom odbačenog razvije svest o značaju očuvanja životne sredine. Buvljak je inspirisao i studente završnih godina Visoke zdravstvene škole i Visoke tekstilne škole za dizajn, tehnologiju i menadžment u Beogradu da naprave kreacije od recikliranih materijala. Neobične odevne komade predstaviće 20. marta na reviji „Open market fashion“ u toku manifestacije Doček proleća. Info: www.ulus-art.org

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

Photo: Ivan Spasojević

I N T E R V I E W

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D I N A

J O H N S E N

LOVE AT SECOND SIGHT

Right... Belgrade was not love from the first sight... I had to adjust. Everything seemed to be different comparing to my Moscow life. And then I truly fell in love with this city. I am very grateful to Belgrade because I received an amazing life experience here. This city was so generous to me by giving me the opportunity to meet the most interesting, beautiful and talented people...

ina Johnsen lived in Belgrade for a few years only, but bequeathed an indelible mark to the city. Her two photo monographs are an unusual story about falling in love, the one at second sight, the real falling in love, which is not mere infatuation. Walking down with such steps, the monograph about the National Theatre came out first, and then about Belgrade itself. They are oddly conceived, just the way Dina Johnsen saw the Serbian capital. And since we know that it is the people who live and work that primarily shape the city, the selection of portraits of personalities from the public and cultural life of Belgrade as a woof for the city’s photo biography is no surprise.

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

Recently, explaining your photo monograph compiled in Belgrade, you said: “I realised that at this stage of life I want to work with people. I am fascinated by their stories that they give by reading the lines on their faces, from well-photographed portraits, with a lens capturing the perfect moments of their lives.” We know very little about you from the short biographies that can be read on the internet. What is your story like? A portrait made from words about elections, people and the critical moments that have defined your life? - I was born in 1969 in Shymkent, in the former Soviet Republic of Kazakhstan. My first job was

Marketing Assistant at Merloni Elettrodomestici – an Italian home appliances manufacturer. At the age of 24 I, the former Soviet girl, started travelling all over Europe. In 1995 I joined Independent Media. This was the start of my career in publishing. Year by year I was gaining more and more responsibilities and functions in Playboy, Girl, Mini, Joy, Madame Figaro, Burda. In 2009 my husband Kjell Johnsen was appointed CEO of Telenor Serbia, so I had to give up my career and move to Belgrade. It took me about a year to understand what I could do in Belgrade. It was clear that I could not find the same job as the one I had had in Moscow, so I had to reinvent myself and decided to do photography.

Yourfirstphotomonograph,“TheUnseenBeauty”, is dedicated to artists of the National Theatre in Belgrade. How do you recognise hidden beauty and how much is a portrait an objective view of the portrayed, and how much depends on the way your eye that takes the pictures sees? - The National Theatre in Belgrade, or any cultural institution in Serbia, doesn’t have enough funds to do luxurious photo sessions for its artists or publish beautiful illustrated books. The National Theatre also didn’t have proper pictures of the artists for many, many years. They didn’t have any beautiful albums which could represent the theatre. Many people in Serbia also don’t know that the National Theatre has its own workshop and produces props, shoes and costumes for all the performances. It was great to show the tailors and shoemakers also. They were so proud to be part of the book as it was the first time when their photos were ever published in the official theatre book. Thanks to the book the opera singers and ballet artists received more visibility in the glossy media. So, it was the first glossy photo book in the history and it was so much to discover and rediscover about the theatre. In the Belgrade stage of your life you chose photography as a creative act through which you express your creativity. You also said: “I considered that photography is the best way to do it, because one of them tells more than a thousand words.” Apart from this definition, what else is photography for you? - I am a very result oriented person. So, in this sense photography is something you produce and see the result right away. But, of course, I like the photography because besides capturing the beauty

you have great opportunity meet really amazing people and this is always a great gift. “When I came to Belgrade, I went through different emotional phases, from maladjustment to falling in love with this city” - you said for magazine Elle. Tell us a little about that journey: why was it difficult to adjust and what was it in Belgrade that you fell in love with? - Right... Belgrade was not love from the first sight. I had to adjust. Everything seemed to be different comparing to my Moscow life. I thought that the restaurants were not good enough or the life rhythm was too slow, or I felt I was missing some shopping for the brands I loved. It all felt like that because in the very beginning I had nothing to do, I had no friends and no idea how to spend my free time in an interesting way. One of the hardest things was that I was no longer the publisher, I couldn’t accept the life of a housewife. I realised that I had to start doing something meaningful in this country in order to bring back the feeling of success. I am very grateful to Belgrade because I received an amazing life experience here. This city was so generous to me by giving me the opportunity to meet the most interesting, beautiful and talented people... From this love, it is clear from every page, the “The Belgrade Book” was created. Belgrade got a book, and what about you? - I received an a mazing life experience and a professional accomplishment I can be very proud of. Is there one particular Belgrade place that is your favourite?You know, that by which we recognise and because of which we love a city?

- I liked to spend time in Square Nine hotel. It is such an elegant place with beautiful interiors and warm atmosphere. I like Stari Grad a lot, walking in the streets, looking at building and people… Living in Belgrade since 2009, you have probably met many times with that special feeling that Serbs feel towards Russians. How much has your Russian origins helped in identifying Belgrade and its inhabitants? - Being Russian helped me many times while living in Belgrade. I think Emir Kusturica would not say “yes” to me if I were an American! How much have you had a chance to get to know Serbia? Are there any places that you would like to return to? - I would return to Belgrade to meet the people I know. I would take long walks in Stari Grad and would drink coffee with my friends in cafes and restaurants which I love. I would call Princess Elizabeth Karađorđević– my dearest friend and would invite her for dinner. We would go to Šaran restaurant by Danube River and order grilled monkfish. And we would laugh and gossip... We would be enjoying each other’s company just like back in the year 2012. I miss you, dearest Elizabeth! The first monograph was promoted in November 2011 and the second in November 2012. Are you preparing a new project for November 2013? - The time will show. I hope I will realize my new ideas in Oslo where I live now. DraGana marKOViĆ

Milica Jević

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

Photo: Matt Lutton

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LJUBAV NA DRUGI POGLED Istina je – nisam se zaljubila u Beograd na prvi pogled. Trebalo mi je vremena da se priviknem. Sve mi je izgledalo drugačije u poređenju sa životom koji sam vodila u Moskvi. A onda sam istinski zavolela taj grad. Beogradu sam veoma zahvalna zato što sam od njega dobila jedno izvanredno iskustvo. Grad je prema meni bio velikodušan – pružio mi je mogućnost da upoznam najzanimljivije, najlepše i najtalentovanije ljude.

ina Johnsen je boraveći svega nekoliko godina u Beogradu ovom gradu u amanet ostavila neizbrisiv trag. Dve njene fotomonografije neobična su priča o zaljubljivanju, onom na drugi pogled, onom pravom, koje nije puka zanesenost. Tim hodom krećući se nastala je najpre monografija Narodnog pozorišta, a potom i samog Beograda. Koncipirane su neobično, baš onako kako je i Dina Johnsen prepoznavala srpsku prestonicu. A kako odavno znamo da gradove pre svega čine ljudi koji u njima žive, ne čudi izbor portreta ličnosti iz javnog i kulturnog života Beograda kao potke za njegovu foto-biografiju. Nedavno ste objašnjavajući svoje fotomonografije urađene u Beogradu rekli:

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

„Shvatila sam da u ovoj fazi života želim da radim s ljudima. Fasciniraju me njihove priče koje se daju čitati iz crta njihovih lica, iz dobro fotografisanih portreta, objektivom uhvaćenih savršenih momenata iz njihovih života.“ Mi o Vama znamo veoma malo iz kratke biografije koja se može pročitati na Internetu. Kakva je Vaša priča? Portret sačinjen rečima o izborima, ljudima, prelomnim trenucima koji su odredili Vaš život? - Rođena sam 1969. godine u gradu Simkentu, u bivšoj sovjetskoj republici Kazahstan. Prvi posao sam dobila u Moskvi, u predstavništvu italijanske kompanije „Merloni Elettrodomestic“. Imala sam samo 24 godine kada sam ja, bivša sovjetska devojka, počela da putujem širom Evrope.

Sredinom devedesetih priključila sam se asocijaciji Nezavisnih medija i tako započela karijeru u izdavaštvu. Iz godine u godinu radila sam na sve odgovornijim funkcijama u magazinima „Playboy“, „Girl“, „Mini“, „Joy“, „Madame Figaro“, „Burda“. Moj muž Kjel Johnsen je 2009. godine postao generalni direktor Telenora u Srbiji tako da sam morala da prekinem karijeru i preselim se u Beograd. Bila mi je potrebna čitava godina da uvidim šta bih ja to mogla da radim u Beogradu, a bilo mi je jasno da ne mogu da nađem posao kakav sam radila u Moskvi. Morala sam da se „preoblikujem“ i odlučila da se bavim fotografijom. Vaša prva foto-monografija „Skrivena lepota“ posvećena je umetnicima Narodnog pozorišta

u Beogradu. Kako prepoznajete skrivenu lepotu i koliko je portret objektivni prikaz portretisanog, a koliko zavisi od načina na koji vas oko koje fotografiše vidi? - Narodno pozorište u Beogradu, kao i bilo koja duga institucija kulture u Srbiji, nema dovoljno sredstava da finansira skupa studijska fotografisanja i da štampa bogato ilustrovane knjige. Mnogo, mnogo godina unazad Narodno pozorište nije imalo dobrih fotografija svojih umetnika, niti je imalo reprezentativan album koji bi predstavljao pozorište. Mnogi ljudi u Srbiji čak i ne znaju da Narodno pozorište ima sopstvene radionice u kojima se izrađuju kulise, obuća, kostimi. Imala sam ogromno zadovoljstvo da slikam pozorišne krojače i obućare, a i oni su bili presrećni što su deo knjige, pošto su se prvi put u istoriji i njihove fotografije pojavile u zvaničnoj monografiji. Zahvaljujući tome operski pevači i baletski igrači pojavili su se u ekskluzivnim magazinima. „Skrivena lepota“ bila je prva luksuzna knjiga u istoriji ovog teatra, a ja sam u njemu otkrila mnoga blaga. U beogradskoj fazi svoga života izabrali ste fotografiju kao stvaralački čin kojim ćete ispoljiti svoju kreativnost. Rekli ste i:„Smatrala sam da je fotografija najbolji način da to uradim, jer jedna govori više od hiljadu reči.“ - Spadam u osobe koje vole konkretne rezultate. Kada je reč o fotografiji, ona je nešto što stvorite i istog časa vidite stvoreno. Međutim, ja volim fotografiju i zato što mi ona, pored toga što beleži lepotu, pruža mogućnost da susretnem zaista očaravajuće ljude, a to je za mene pravi pravacati poklon.

„Kada sam došla u Beograd, prolazila sam kroz različite emotivne faze, od neprilagođenosti do zaljubljenosti u ovaj grad“ – rekli ste za „Elle“. Opišite nam malo taj put. Zašto je bilo teško prilagoditi se i šta je to u Beogradu u šta ste se zaljubljivali? - Istina je – nisam se zaljubila u Beograd na prvi pogled. Bilo mi je potrebno vremena da se priviknem. Sve mi je izgledalo drugačije u poređenju sa životom koji sam vodila u Moskvi. Na samom početku smatrala sam da restorani nisu dovoljno dobri, ritam života mi je bio previše usporen, nedostajala mi je kupovina brendiranih stvari koje volim. Tako sam se osećala zato što nisam imala šta da radim, nisam imala prijatelje, niti ideju kako bih mogla kvalitetno da ispunim vreme. Najteže mi je padalo što ne radim u izdavaštvu, a nisam mogla da prihvatim da živim kao domaćica. Shvatila sam da treba da počnem da radim na nečemu što je značajno u ovoj zemlji, i želela sam da ljudima povratim veru u uspeh. Beogradu sam veoma zahvalna zato što sam od njega dobila jedno izvanredno iskustvo. Grad je prema meni bio velikodušan – pružio mi je mogućnost da upoznam najzanimljivije, najlepše i najtalentovanije ljude. Iz te zaljubljenosti, jasno je sa svake stranice, nastala je i „Knjiga o Beogradu“. Beograd je dobio knjigu, a Vi? - Bogatija sam za jedno neverovatno i neponovljivo životno iskustvo i profesionalno delo. Time se veoma ponosim. Postoji li jedno određeno Vaše omiljeno beogradsko mesto? Znate, ono po kome prepoznamo i zbog koga zavolimo jedan grad?

Vladimir Veličković

- Volela sam da vreme provodim u hotelu „Square Nine“. To je jedan elegantan prostor sa predivnim enterijerima i toplom atmosferom. Mnogo volim Stari grad, šetnje ulicama, posmatranje građevina, ljudi... Živeći u Beogradu od 2009. godine verovatno ste se mnogo puta susreli s tim posebnim osećajem koji Srbi gaje prema Rusima. Koliko Vam je rusko poreklo pomoglo u prepoznavanju Beograda i njegovih žitelja? - To što sam Ruskinja pomoglo mi je mnogo, mislim da Emir Kusturica ne bi pristao da sarađuje sa mnom da sam bila Amerikanka. Koliko ste imali prilike da upoznate Srbiju? Postoje li neka mesta u koja biste poželeli da se vratite? - Vratila bih se u Beograd da se vidim s prijateljima. Dugo bih šetala ulicama Starog grada, pila bih kafu s prijateljima u kafeima i restoranima koje volim. Zvala bih na večeru moju najdražu prijateljicu princezu Jelisavetu Karađorđević. Otišle bismo u restoran „Šaran“ na obali Dunava i naručile bismo grilovanu grdobu... smejale bismo se i ogovarale... Uživale bismo u druženju kao i 2012. godine. Nedostaješ mi, najdraža moja Jelisaveta! Prva monografija promovisana je u novembru 2011, druga u novembru 2012. godine. Spremate li neki novi projekat za novembar 2013? - Vreme će pokazati. Nadam se da ću u Oslu, gde sada živim, ostvariti neke moje nove ideje. DraGana marKOViĆ Sonja Vukićević

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Wembley, 1978

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FROM AN ATTIC TO THE STARS “My literature is my garden. If someone in that garden likes a flower, he should be free to consider it his own and pick it, trying not to step onto the garden beds, if possible. If, however, he doesn’t like single thing, he shouldn’t jump over the fence, but he should move on, without looking back...” once said the writer, gardener and lover of flowers Borislav Pekić

here are people who left their trail imprinted with the printing colour on brittle paper. They are the creatures of arts, the people with gift that only those ready to perfect their mastery get and those trying to elevate life. Their human duration is just a drop in the ocean of eternity; their masterpiece supersedes time and shines like a star even when they cease to exist. We’ll start the story of Borislav Pekić, one of them, at a Pannonian plain farm, in an attic of his grandmother’s home in the village of Bavanište, at the time when he, as an eleven-year-old researcher discovered a treasure chest. But the treasure that he found in the chest with a rusted frame, a kind of across-the-ocean travel case, is not of ordinary kind. This one included: the dates of birth, marriage and death, joyful and sad events recorded in birth certificates, marriage certificates, records, family documents, and memories: a handful of clippings from newspapers, letters, daguerreotypes, and a gallery of unknown men and women and faraway cities, a whole mysterious world that would spark his imagination. Many years later, he admitted that there, on the lost continent, his Atlantis, he had experienced adventures that would not be surpassed by anything in terms of excitement, and that with the breaking of the case he had started his transgressive career of a novelist. That discovery affected his career more, he wrote, than reading Dostoevsky. As if the spirit of the past was then released, that had seized him and forced him to collect old newspapers, magazines, almanacs, letters, documents, and even receipts and prescriptions, and to make his home a kind of a tomb, where, he didn’t hide that, he felt the liveliest. THE REBEL WITH A REASON Borislav was born into a middle-class family as the only son of Vojislav and Ljubica Pekić. When the Second World War broke out, his father was the head of the administrative department of the Zeta Province in Cetinje, from where the Italian authorities banished him and his family to Serbia. Mother Ljubica was of Greco-Cincar origin, and before she got married, she taught mathematics. She was a strong and practical woman. She used to say that no one had died from work, and that good upbringing was a universal weapon against all adversities. From his mother, to who he was closer, Borislav inherited rationality and the sense for organisation and from his father high moral principles and the sense of humour. Since after the war he was not convicted, his father, as an experienced lawyer, received a highly ranked position in the federal administration of the new state

Pekić as a boy in 1945. The Pekić family moved to Belgrade, to Malajnička Street, in Vračar neighbourhood. Borislav enrolled in the Third Men’s Gymnasium. It was as if the moving to Belgrade marked an end to a nice, certain period of his life. It was a much bigger change than just changing the scenery; the end of the war

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and the victory of the revolution made him aware of the decline of the middle class. “As a member of the class that had the power I felt defeated, dispossessed,” he later said. Already at the age of six, he learned to read from the “Politika” newspapers, and he was “politically” active already as an eight-yearold, and at the age of eleven, as a participant in the demonstrations against the Tripartite Pact, he was detained at his father’s police unit in Cetinje. Already as a high school student he began forming secret organisations that would fight against the new regime. His political maturity will be accelerated by the socalled “high school defascistisation”, a brutal process that he had experienced as an avowed opponent of the new regime in February 1946. He and 42 of his high school fellow students were publicly condemned as opponents of the regime, they went through the crowd of their ravaged peers, who beat them with their hands, sticks, and even chains. This kind of beating-up would later often be practiced on Goli Otok (N.B. an island in the Adriatic Sea where political prisoners were kept at the time of the communist regime in Yugoslavia) and it would get the name “hot rabbit”. FIRST SCHOOL OF LIFE Although he did not care much about the real school, he was in circumstances that to a wise man could be the school of life. Pekić himself did not believe in

In Niš Prison, 1953

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trouble as the sole master of life and inspiration. “Maybe happiness can teach a man something,” he would say. The first opportunity to gain new experience will follow as a result of illegal anti-regime activities. As a direct response to the “high school defascistisation” the organisation “Union of the Democratic Youth of Yugoslavia” was formed. He was involved in its formation in the summer of 1947, during, lo and behold, the construction of the railway, in a youth work action, a typical model of shaping the collective spirit of the new young generation. As the political secretary of the General Board he wrote the statute of this anti-communist organisation. In youthful enthusiasm, the organisation functioned well; it had a lot of members in all Belgrade gymnasiums as well as in the majority of faculties. On one November night in 1948, he was arrested and taken to the investigative department of the State Security Service, to the “gloomy house” at Obilićev Venac. That was how “a criminal investigation against Borislav Pekić, an art student and a journalist of Glas, began.” He became one of, as he wrote, “people from the attic”; actually, there were cells there. Pekić would refer to his nearly six-month stay here as his imprisonment “apprenticeship” days. PRISON CIVILISATION At the age of eighteen he was sentenced as a serious criminal to “detention and hard labour of 15 (fifteen) years in prison... confiscation of all property and loss of civil rights... for three years...” He spent five years in penal and correctional institutions in Sremska Mitrovica and Niš after having been pardoned. One of the most important things he learned was discovering himself. He wrote: “You learn how fast you are only when you are faced with a tiger; how honourable when you find the money and no one sees you; how sensible when you are asked to do the impossible; whether you are brave only when it is not necessary to be brave; how good only when you are to cope with the evil; and how crazy when you are standing on the bank of the river where a child is drowning, and you can’t swim...” as if this was written by an ancient Chinese wise man and not someone who was doing time in communist jails. Although he used to say that prisons were to him just a waste of time, the result of his stay in them was not at all insignificant. From a temporal and spatial distance, Borislav Pekić wrote nearly fifteen hundred pages, fictionalised biographies in three volumes, ““The Years The Locusts Have Devoured”. This kind of anthropological study of the so-called prison civilisation, which represents an anatomical cut into the fabric of a time, has put Pekić side by side with Solzhenitsyn, Dostoevsky, Shalamov, among the great writers who, writing about life on the other side of the wall, created masterpieces. Apart from the prison experience, he also earned tuberculosis, from which he had never fully healed. HOW THE WRITER WAS BORN He started writing seriously, as he revealed in one of his interviews, when, as advised by his mother, he started writing a diary, in order to improve his terrible handwriting. At one point, during the convict days, those diaries grew from a personal confession into a story about others. He was pardoned on the Republic Day in 1953. Soon after, he began studying experimental psychology at the Faculty of Philosophy and writing screenplays for which he was awarded at anonymous competitions. Then he got married and had a daughter. He dropped out of university and started working in “Lovćen Film” as a dramatist and a screenwriter. He confirmed “his definite commitment to art, literature and public life” with

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the publication of articles under the pseudonyms in magazines “Vidici” and “Danas”. “Borislav, I’ve read the manuscript of ‘The Time of Miracles’, you are a writer,” Borislav Mihajlović Mihiz solemnly told him on the phone. It will be his first published book that came out public in 1965. Mihiz will forever remain Pekić’s first privileged reader and a unique critic, the person whose judgement he trusted the most. “I used to dream,” Pekić said, “about becoming an explorer of unexamined areas, the discoverer of undefined secrets, a scientist, a traveller towards the stars, an archaeologist, in short, someone who has found something, something particularly important for Mankind (in which I believed then). I became a writer when I realised that I had neither the mental nor physical nor social conditions for all that. But now I regret it.” LIVING IN A FOREIGN LAND “I went to a foreign land for two reasons. I felt fallen, sunken, ‘stuck’ in reality deeper than my idea of independence of art allowed... So, I went afar to regain the inner artistic freedom. And even more – my time.” His wife, Ljiljana, an architect, got a job and moved with their daughter, Aleksandra, to London. Bora’s passport was confiscated, and only after nine long months, after winning the NIN Award and after the foreign press wrote about it, his passport was returned to him and he joined his family. Now he could engage in writing, he had the time, liberty and existential security, provided by his entirely devoted wife. Thousands of pages of novels, plays, screenplays, essays, diary entries emanated from his workshop. He retyped his novelistic cycle “Golden Fleece” of seven books, on three and a half thousand pages, as many as six times on an ordinary machine. He wrote in “Letters from Abroad”: “The right place is where you grow. Because, of all the lands foreign that the man is convicted to, his own one is still the most tolerable.” He extended his stay in London, originally defined as “some time”, to twenty years. DEMOCRACY IN ACTION He was saying that while staying in a foreign country, he learned more about us than about them. He wrote about them and us in “Letters from Abroad”, “A Sentimental History of the British Empire” and he spoke via BBC Radio in London. An exciting time came with the announcement of democratic changes. He was one of the founders of the Democratic Party, a vice-chairman and a participant in the reconstruction of the magazine “Demokratija”. He considered it his duty to help the restoration of democracy. He was a democrat both in the private and public life, aware that democracy was a compromise above all. “...I was brought up as a democrat,” he used to say. “I try to act like a democrat, and to overcome in myself the innate human, totalitarian, I would say, almost anthropological antidemocratic features that originate from selfishness, lust for power, vanity and wicked experience with people. I believe in democracy as the best of all wicked systems, and certainly the most bearable one...” THE PRESENCE OF MR. PEKIĆ Of fragile health from his youth, he lived with the knowledge that would not live long so he kept rushing himself to complete as many things as he could: “There’s so little time left before 1990...” He thought faster than he could write. A whole decade after his death, with the help of the magic that is called tape recorded, the recorded voice of Pekić reveals his

In Paris, 1965 thoughts and himself to even those who spent decades with him, his wife, and through her to his readers too. “Soon after my husband’s death,” Ljiljana Pekić says, “I found his tapes on which he recorded ideas for his future books. I listened to them for the first time then... I had the impression that Pekić was retelling me a story over the phone what he was doing, what problems tortured him while he was writing... Then came new pages, new volumes of books containing diary entries, notes, and correspondence. She paid yet another tribute to Borislav Pekić when she submitted a rehabilitation request to the democratic authorities, which the court adopted in 2007. “I think that to be a gentleman one first of all needs to be generous, brave, honest, modest and tolerant.” This sentence would briefly describe Borislav Pekić, but he would add that he is not tolerant, but rather well brought-up. He approached any matter that he dealt with meticulously, whether he was writing about it or dealt with it practically, such as garden cultivation. He went to London, as I said, given his modesty, as an uneducated man to become one of our most educated writer, a true erudite. He died in London of lung cancer. The urn with his ashes was transferred to Belgrade and rests in the Alley of Deserving Citizens in the New Cemetery. On a marble plate on the wall of the columbarium there are eight digits that bound his earthly time, 1930-1992, and one word which should summarise all that during that time he dealt with – writer. JOVO anĐiĆ The author thanks the Pekić family on submitting the photographs and documents used

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In London, 1974

OD TAVANA DO ZVEZDA „Moja je književnost moj vrt. Ako se nekome u tom vrtu dopadne neki cvet, slobodno neka ga smatra svojim i uzbere, ne gazeći, po mogućnosti leje. Ako mu se ništa ne dopadne neka ne preskače plot, već neka produži ne obazirući se...“ rekao je jednom pisac, vrtlar i ljubitelj cveća Borislav Pekić

ma ljudi koji su svoj trag otisnuli štamparskom bojom na trošni papir. Oni su bića umetnosti, dara koji dobijaju samo oni što su spremni da usavršavaju svoje majstorstvo i što se trude da uzvise život. Njihovo je ljudsko trajanje tek kap u okeanu večnosti, ali njihovo majstorsko delo pretekne vreme i kao zvezda sija i kada oni prestanu da postoje. Priču o Borislavu Pekiću, jednom od njih, započećemo na jednom pan-

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onskom imanju, na tavanu kuće njegove bake u Bavaništu, u času kada je kao jedanaestogodišnji istraživač otkrio sanduk sa blagom. Ali blago koje je pronašao u kovčegu sa zarđalim okovom, jednoj vrsti prekookeanskog kofera, nije od obične vrste. On je sadržao vreme: datume rađanja, venčanja i smrti, radosnih i tužnih događaja zabeleženih u krštenice, venčanice, svedočanstva, porodične dokumente, i uspomene: pregršt isečaka iz novina, pisama, dagero-

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tipija, i jednu galeriju nepoznatih muškaraca i žena i dalekih gradova, čitav jedan misteriozni svet koji će mu razbuktati maštu. Mnogo godina potom priznao je da je tu, na izgubljenom kontinentu, njegovoj Atlantidi, doživeo pustolovine koje kasnije neće ništa po uzbudljivosti nadmašiti, i da je obijanjem tog kovčega započeo svoju prestupničku karijeru spisatelja. Na nju je to otkriće uticalo više, zapisao je, nego čitanje Dostojevskog. Kao da je tada pušten duh prošlosti, koji ga je obuzeo i terao da prikuplja stare novine, časopise, almanahe, pisma, dokumente, pa čak i račune i recepte, te da od svog doma načini svojevrsnu grobnicu, u kojoj se, to nije skrivao, osećao najživljim. BUNTOVNIK SA RAZLOGOM Borislav se rodio u građanskoj porodici kao jedini sin Vojislava i Ljubice Pekić. Kada je počeo Drugi svetski rat, otac je bio načelnik u upravnom odeljenju Zetske banovine na Cetinju, odakle su ga italijanske vlasti sa porodicom proterale u Srbiju. Majka Ljubica bila je grčko-cincarskog porekla i pre nego što se udala predavala je matematiku. Bila je jaka i praktična žena. Govorila je da od rada niko nije umro i da je dobar odgoj univerzalno oružje protiv svih nedaća. Od majke, kojoj je bio bliži, Borislav je nasledio racionalnost i smisao za organizaciju, a od oca visoke moralne principe i smisao za humor. Kako posle rata nije bio osuđivan, kao iskusni pravnik, otac je 1945. godine dobio visok položaj u saveznoj administraciji nove države. Porodica Pekić preselila se u Beograd, u Malajničku ulicu, na Vračaru. Borislav se upisao u Treću mušku gimnaziju. Preseljenjem u Beograd kao da je završeno jedno lepo, pouzdano vreme njegovog života. Bila je to mnogo krupnija promena od promene pejzaža; završetak rata i pobeda revolucije učinili su da postane svestan propadanja građanske klase: „Kao pripadnik klase koja je imala vlast osećao sam se poraženim, obespravljenim“ – rekao je kasnije. Već u šestoj godini naučio je da čita iz „Politike“, bio „politički“ aktivan u osmoj, a u jedanaestoj godini,

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kao učesnik demonstracija protiv Trojnog pakta, priveden je u očevu policiju na Cetinju. Formiranje tajnih organizacija koje će se boriti protiv novog režima počeo je kao đak gimnazije. Njegovo političko sazrevanje ubrzaće „defašizacija gimnazija“, jedan surov postupak koji je, kao deklarisani protivnik novog režima, iskusio u februaru 1946. godine. On i 42 gimnazijska druga, javno osuđeni kao protivnici režima, prošli su kroz gomilu razgnevljenih vršnjaka, koji su ih udarali rukama, motkama, pa i lancima. Takav će špalir kasnije često biti upražnjavan na „Golom otoku“ i dobiti naziv „topli zec“. PRVA ŽIVOTNA ŠKOLA Iako za pravu školu nije mnogo mario, bio je u okolnostima koje mudrome mogu biti životne škole. Sam Pekić nije verovao u nevolju kao isključivog učitelja života i nadahnuća. „Možda i sreća može čoveka nečemu naučiti“ – govorio je. Prva prilika za sticanje novog iskustva uslediće kao posledica ilegalnih antirežimskih aktivnosti. Kao direktna reakcija na „defašizaciju gimnazija“ formirana je organizacija„Savez demokratske omladine Jugoslavije“. Učestvovao je u njenom formiranju tokom leta 1947. godine, na, gle čuda, izgradnji pruge, radnoj akciji, tipičnom modelu vaspitavanja kolektivnog duha nove omladine. On je kao politički sekretar Glavnog odbora napisao statut te antikomunističke organizacije. U mladalačkom zanosu, organizacija je dobro funkcionisala, imala je veliki broj članova u svim beogradski gimnazijama i na većini fakulteta. Jedne novembarske noći 1948. godine uhapšen je i odveden u istražno odeljenje Uprave državne bezbednosti, u „sumornu kuću“ na Obilićevom vencu. Tako je protiv „Borislava Pekića, studenta umetnosti i novinara Glasa“, započela krivična istraga. Postao je jedan od, kako je zapisao, „ljudi potkrovlja“. Tamo su, naime, bile ćelije. Skoro šestomesečni boravak tamo Pekić je nazvao „šegrtskim“ danima svoje robije. Founding assembly of the Democratic Party

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KAKO SE RODIO PISAC

With wife Ljiljana in Venice, 1961 ZATVORSKA CIVILIZACIJA U osamnaestoj godini osuđen je kao teški zločinac na „kaznu lišavanja slobode s prinudnim radom od 15 (petnaest) godina zatvora... na konfiskaciju celokupne imovine... i gubitak građanskih prva... u trajanju od tri godine...“ U zatvoru u KP domovima u Sremskoj Mitrovici i Nišu proveo je pet godina, pošto je pomilovan. Jedna od najvažnijih stvari koju je tamo naučio bilo je spoznavanje samog sebe. Zapisao je: „Koliko ste brzi doznajete tek pred tigrom; koliko časni kad nađete novac a niko vas ne vidi; koliko razumni kad se od vas zahteva nemoguće; jeste li hrabri tek kada nije nužno da budete; koliko dobri tek kada treba podneti zlo; i koliko ludi kad stojite na obali reke u kojoj se davi dete, a vi ne znate da plivate...’’ Kao da ju je napisao drevni kineski mudrac, a ne neko ko je tamnovao u komunističkim zatvorima. Iako je govorio da su zatvori za njega bili čist gubitak vremena, rezultat njegovog boravka u njima nije bio mali. Sa vremenske i prostorne udaljenosti Borislav Pekić je ispisao skoro hiljadu i po stranica, romansiranu biografiju u tri toma „Godine koje su pojeli skakavci“. Ova svojevrsna antropološka studija, takozvane zatvorske civilizacije, koja predstavlja anatomski rez u tkivo jednog vremena, svrstaće ga, uz Solženjicina, Dostojevskog, Šalamova, u red velikih pisaca, koji su pišući o životu s one strane zida, stvorili vrhunsko delo. Sa robije je, pored iskustva, poneo i tuberkulozu, od koje se nikad potpuno nije izlečio. Handwriting, 1983

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

Ozbiljno je počeo da piše, otkrio je u jednom intervjuu, onda kada je po majčinom savetu počeo da vodi dnevnik, da bi, kako je govorila, popravio grozni rukopis. U jednom času tokom robijanja ti su dnevnici prerasli iz lične ispovesti u priču o drugima. Pomilovan je za Dan Republike 1953. godine. Ubrzo je započeo studije eksperimentalne psihologije na Filozofskom fakultetu i pisanje filmskih scenarija za koje je bio nagrađivan na anonimnim konkursima. Potom se oženio i dobio ćerku. Napustio je fakultet i počeo da radi u „Lovćen filmu“ kao dramaturg i scenarista. „Definitivno opredeljenje za umetnost, literaturu i javni život“ potvrdio je objavljivanjem tekstova pod pseudonimima u „Vidicima“ i „Danasu“. “Borislave, pročitao sam rukopis ‘Vremena čuda’, vi ste pisac.” To mu je svečano jednog podneva telefonom saopštio Borislav Mihajlović Mihiz. Biće to njegova prva štampana knjiga, objavljena 1965. godine. Mihiz će zauvek ostati prvi Pekićev povlašćeni čitalac i jedinstveni kritičar, osoba u čiji je sud imao najveće poverenje. „Nekada sam sanjao“, rekao je Pekić, „da budem istraživač neispitanih predela, otkrivač nedefinisanih tajni, naučnik, putnik prema zvezdama, arheolog, ukratko neko ko je nešto pronašao, nešto naročito važno za Vrstu (u koju sam onda verovao). Pisac sam postao onda kada sam shvatio da za sve to nemam ni mentalnih, ni fizičkih, pa ni društvenih uslova. Ali sada žalim .“ ŽIVOT U TUĐINI „U tuđinu sam otišao iz dva razloga. Osetio sam da sam u stvarnost upao, utonuo, ‘zaglibio se’ dublje nego što mi je ideja o nezavisnosti umetnosti dopuštala... Otišao sam, dakle, da povratim unutrašnju umetničku slobodu. A još više svoje – vreme.” Supruga Ljiljana, arhitekta, dobila je posao i preselila

K N J I Ž E V N I

V O D I Č

Pekić with Dragoslav Mihajlović and Bora Todorović se sa ćerkom Aleksandrom u London. Bori su oduzeli pasoš i posle dugih devet meseci, dobijanja NIN-ove nagrade i pisanja strane štampe, pasoš mu je vraćen i on se u Londonu pridružio porodici. Sada se mogao baviti pisanjem, imao je vreme, ličnu slobodu i egzistencijalnu sigurnost, koju mu je pružala u potpunosti privržena supruga. Iz njegove radionica izvirale su hiljade stranica romana, drama, scenarija, eseja, dnevničkih zapisa. Romaneskni ciklus ‘Zlatno runo’ od sedam knjiga, tri i po hiljade stranica, prekucao je sam, čak šest puta na običnoj mašini. U „Pismima iz tuđine“ zapisao je: „Pravo je mesto ono na kome smo porasli. Jer, od sviju tuđina na koje je čovek osuđen, najsnošljivija je ipak sopstvena.“ Boravak u Londonu definisan prvobitno na „izvesno vreme“, produžio se na dvadeset godina.

K R O Z

B E O G R A D

svoje misli, sebe, čak i onima koji su decenije proveli uz njega, svojoj ženi, pa preko nje čitaocima. „Ubrzo posle smrti mog muža“, kaže Ljiljana Pekić, „našla sam njegove magnetofonske trake, na kojima je beležio ideje za buduće knjige. Tada sam ih prvi put slušala... Imala sam utisak da mi Pekić preko telefona priča šta radi, kakvi su ga problemi mučili dok je pisao... Potekle su nove stranice, novi tomovi knjiga koji sadrže dnevničke zapise, beleške i prepisku.“ Još jedan dug Borislavu Pekiću odužila je kada je demokratskoj vlasti, što je po Pekiću jedino imalo smisla, podnela zahtev za rehabilitaciju, koju je sud usvojio 2007. godine. „Ja mislim da biti gospodin znači u prvom redu biti velikodušan, biti hrabar, biti častan, skroman i tolerantan.“ Ova bi njegova rečenica najkraće opisala Borislava Pekića, on bi joj dodao da on sam nije tolerantan nego dobro odgojen. Svakoj stvari kojom se bavio pristupao je studiozno, bilo da je o njoj pisao, ili se njome praktično bavio, poput uzgajanja vrta. U London je otišao, kako je sam rekao, imajući u vidu njegovu skromnost, kao neobrazovan, da bi postao jedan od naših najobrazovanijih književnika, pravi erudita. Umro je u Londonu od raka pluća. Urna sa njegovim prahom preneta je u Beograd u Aleju zaslužnih građana na Novom groblju. Na mermernoj pločici na zidu kolumbarijuma je osam brojeva koji omeđuju njegovo ovozemaljsko vreme – 1930–1992, i jedna desetoslovna reč, koja bi trebalo da sažme sve čime se tokom tog vremena bavio – književnik. JOVO ANĐIĆ Autor se zahvaljuje porodici Pekić na ustupljenim fotografijama i dokumentima

DEMOKRATIJA NA DELU Govorio je da je boraveći u tuđini više naučio o nama nego o njima. O nama i njima pisao je „Pisma iz tuđine“, „Sentimentalnu povest Britanskog carstva“ i govorio preko talasa Radio BBC iz Londona. Uzbudljivo vreme nastupilo je s najavom demokratskih promena. Bio je jedan je od osnivača Demokratske stranke, njen potpredsednik i učesnik u obnavljanju lista „Demokratija“. Smatrao je svojom obavezom da pomogne restauraciju demokratije. Bio je demokrata i u privatnom i javnom životu, svestan da je demokratija u prvom redu kompromis. „...Vaspitan sam kao demokrata“ – govorio je. „Nastojim da se kao demokrata ponašam i da u sebi savladam urođene ljudske, totalitarne, gotovo bih rekao antropološki antidemokratske osobine potekle iz sebičnosti, žudnje za moć, taštine i rđavog iskustva sa ljudima. Verujem u demokratiju kao najbolji od svih rđavih sistema, a svakako najpodnošljiviji…“ PRISUSTVO GOSPODINA PEKIĆA Od mladosti krhkog zdravlja, živeo je sa svešću da neće dugo živeti i sebe stalno požurivao da završi što više stvari: „Vremena do 1990. ima još tako malo ...“ Mislio je brže nego što je mogao da piše. Čitave decenije posle smrti, uz pomoć magije koja se zove magnetofon, snimljenim glasom, Pekić otkriva

Walking with Radoslav Bratić and Miodrag Maksimović

BelGuest ZIMA | WINTER 2013

HILL FOR CONTEMPLATION

Johann Ambrosius Siebmacher: 1521 Conquest of Belgrade, Nuremberg, 1603

Engravings of Belgrade from the 16th to 19 th centuries The recently completed exhibition by Vladimir Tomić at the Belgrade City Museum presented a rich collection of original engravings of Belgrade. The exhibition “ Hill For Contemplation” was designed as a whole, which includes four segments: war scenes, plans, panoramas and genre scenes. We present you a part of this collection, which tells the history of Belgrade and testifies about th e “complexity of the emergence of visual identity of the White City.” We thank the Belgrade City Museum on consigned material

Melchior Haffner der Jungere: Appearance of Belgrade, Augsburg, 1684

Heinrich Jonas Ostertag: Panorama of Belgrade at the Confluence of the Sava and Danube Rivers, Augsburg, 1717

BREG ZA RAZMIŠLJANJE Gravire Beograda od 16. do 19. veka

Na nedavno završenoj izložbi Muzeja grada autora Vladimira Tomića, predstavljena je bogata zbirka originalnih gravira Beograda. Izložba “Breg za razmišljanje” osmišljena je kao celina koja sadrži četiri segmenta: ratne scene, planove, panorame i žanrovske scene. Predstavljamo vam deo ove zbirke koja priča o istoriji Beograda i svedoči o “složenosti nicanja vizuelnog identiteta Belog grada”. Zahvaljujemo se Muzeju grada Beograda na ustupljenom materijalu

Alois Sonne von Sonnefeld: Appearance of Belgrade in Serbia, Vienna, 1790/1800 Carl Goebel: Belgrade. Appearance by the Danube side, Vienna, 1862

Johannes Smith: The Scene of the Battle of Belgrade on the 16th of August 1717, Amsterdam, 1721

PROGRAMME OF CELEBRATION OF THE EDICT OF MILAN

SIGNS OF AN ANGEL

Niš has been chosen as the centre for celebrating the adoption of the most important document in the Christian civilisation as the hometown of the mighty Emperor Constantine. The jubilee 17 times bathed in gold started right on the 17th day of January. The celebration was opened by Serbian Patriarch Irinej and Serbian President Tomislav Nikolic, with a message that Serbia still lives adhering to the principles of that document.

he next big ceremony is scheduled for the 27th of February, the birthday of Constantine the Great. The premiere of the play “Constantine: signs of an angel”, based on the novel of Niš writer Dejan Stojiljković, author of the bestselling book “Constantine’s Crossing”, will be occasioned for the emperor’s birthday. The audience will be able to see on stage the most important moments from the emperor’s life – the Battle at the Milvian Bridge, observation of the cross on the Roman sky, the First Ecumenical Council, the declaration of the Edict of Milan, the construction of Constantinople... The story is based on historical facts, but also on Christian traditions and legends. The play will be performed by the ensemble of the Niš National Theatre, directed by Jug Radivojević, and playing the lead role will be actor Tanasije Uzunović. The Belgrade audience will be able to see this play on the 4th of March at the National Theatre.

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EXHIBITION - CONSTANTINE AND HIS AGE For the story about the anniversary and the “holy emperor” to get a tangible dimension, Viminacium, the site through which the greatest number of Roman emperors paraded, will on the 18th of May host an exhibition “Constantine and his age”, featuring 128 artefacts of great cultural value from the 1st to the 4th century AD. At the same place on the same day, only in the evening, Verdi’s opera “Aida” will be performed. Evenings of classical music will continue to be follow in the weeks to come. IN HOC SIGNO On the 3rd of June, the day of the Holy Emperor Constantine and Empress Helena, and also the day when Niš celebrates the city’s saint patron’s day, Sanja Ilić and the Balkanica ensemble will perform a multimedia spectacle “Constantinus

Magnus”, with the participation of the orchestra and choir of the Belgrade opera, the Belgrade ballet and ethno-singers. On the 15th of June, the Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra will be playing Beethoven’s “Ninth Symphony”, and two weeks later, on St. Vitus’ Day (Vidovdan), the ensemble of the Belgrade Opera will perform Verdi’s “Il Trovatore” at the same place. The last in a series of musical events will be the premiere of the opera “In hoc signo”, whose libretto was written by Dejan Miladinović, and the music was composed by Marco Frisina. For the finale of the ceremony, on the 6th of October, all heads of the Orthodox churches will hold a liturgy, which will be attended by dignitaries of other Christian churches and guests from public life. BeLGUeSt

PROGRAM PROSLAVE MILANSKOG EDIKTA

ZNAMENJE ANĐELA Za centar proslave jubileja donošenja najvažnijeg dokumenta hrišćanske civilizacije odabran je Niš, rodni grad moćnog cara Konstantina. Jubilej 17 puta u zlatu okupan počeo je baš 17. dana u januaru. Proslavu su otvorili patrijarh srpski Irinej i predsednik Srbije Tomislav Nikolić, s porukom da Srbija i danas živi po principima tog dokumenta.

ledeća velika svečanost zakazana je za 27. februar, dan rođenja Konstantina Velikog. Za carev rođendan predviđena je premijera predstave „Konstantin: Znamenje anđela“ po romanu niškog pisca Dejana Stojiljkovića, autora bestselera „Konstantinovo raskršće“. Publika će na sceni moći da sagleda najvažnije trenutke iz carevog života – bitku kod Milvijskog mosta, opažanje krsta na rimskom nebu, Prvi vaseljenski sabor, proglašenje Milanskog edikta, izgradnju Konstantinopolja... Priča se oslanja na istorijske činjenice, ali i na hrišćanska predanja i legende. Predstavu će izvesti ansambl Niškog narodnog pozorišta, u režiji Juga Radivojevića, a glavnu ulogu će poneti glumac Tanasije Uzunović. Beogradska publika će biti u prilici da pogleda ovu predstavu 4. marta u Narodnom pozorištu. IZOŽBA - KONSTANTIN I NJEGOVO DOBA Kako bi priča o jubileju i „svetom caru“ dobila i opipljivu dimenziju, 18. maja na Viminacijumu, lokalitetu kroz koji je prodefilovalo najviše rimskih imperatora biće otvorena izložba „Konstantin i njegovo doba“, na kojoj će biti

predstavljeno 128 artefakata nulte kulturne vrednosti od 1. do 4. veka naše ere. Na istom mestu i istog dana, samo u večernjim časovima, biće izvedena Verdijeva opera „Aida“. Večeri klasične muzike nastaviće da se nižu i u nedeljama koje slede.

vara pravoslavnih crkava, kojoj će prisustvovati velikodostojnici drugih hrišćanskih crkava i gosti iz javnog života. BeLGUeSt

IN HOC SIGNO Trećeg juna, na dan Svetog cara Konstantina i carice Jelene, slave grada Niša, Sanja Ilić i ansambl Balkanika izvešće multimedijalni spektakl „Konstantinus Magnus“, uz učešće orkestra i hora Beogradske opere, Beogradskog baleta i etnopevača. Na Niškoj tvrđavi će 15. juna Beogradska filharmonija svirati Betovenovu „Devetu simfoniju“, a dve nedelje kasnije, na Vidovdan, na istom mestu ansambl Beogradske opere izvešće Verdijevu operu „Trubadur“. Poslednja u nizu muzičkih dešavanja biće premijera opere „In hoc signo“, čiji je libreto napisao Dejan Miladinović, a muziku komponovao Marko Frizina. Za završnicu ceremonije, 6. oktobra predviđena je zajednička liturgija svih pogla-

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

E V E N T S

D O G A Đ A

41st FEst – INtERNAtIONAL FILM FEstIVAL

41. MEĐUNARODNI FILMsKI FEstIVAL „FEst“

ESCAPE IN FILM

BEKSTVO U FILM

22nd February – 3rd March, Sava Centre, Dom Omladine, Hall of the Culture Centre, Cinematheque, Fontana

eady, set, FEst- this year’s Fest invites the audience to escape from reality into a cadre of some of the 75 premieres of films that will be on the programme. these are the world’s greatest names of directing and acting and the most current creations of the seventh art. Fest, as tradition dictates, opens with the film awarded the Golden Palm, this time with “Love” by Michael Haneke. Goran Markovic’s new movie “Forger” will close the festival. Info: www.fest.rs

22. februar – 3. mart, Centar „Sava“, Dom omladine, Dvorana kulturnog centra, Kinoteka, Fontana

riprema, pozor, FEst! – ovogodišnji Fest poziva publiku da iz stvarnosti pobegne u kadar nekog od 75 premijernih filmova koji će se naći na programu. U pitanju su najveća svetska rediteljska i glumačka imena i trenutno najaktuelnija ostvarenja sedme umetnosti. Fest će, kako to već tradicija nalaže, otvoriti film nagrađen Zlatnom palmom, ovoga puta „Ljubav“ Mihaela Hanekea. Novi film Gorana Markovića „Falsifikator“ zatvoriće festival. Info: www.fest.rs

13tH INtERNAtIONAL GUItAR ARt FEstIVAL

13. MEĐUNARODNI GUItAR ARt FEstIVAL

MUSIC FROM ALL CONTINENTS

MUZIKA SA SVIH KONTINENATA

16th – 21st March, National Museum, Sava Centre, Kolarac Endowment Hall

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16–21. mart, Narodni muzej, Centar „Sava“, Kolarčeva zadužbina

his year’s festival with the slogan “Continents” will host more than 180 artists from around the world. the dense festival programme will be filled with concerts, competitions, lectures, exhibitions, film screenings... A special place in the programme is taken by the world famous trio masters of the guitar “Kings of strings”. And making a first ever concert in front of the Belgrade public will be Concha Buika, currently the top flamenco guitarist and a jazz giant. Info: www.gaf.rs

vogodišnji Festival sa sloganom „Kontinenti“ ugostiće više od 180 umetnika iz celog sveta. Gust festivalski program biće ispunjen koncertima, takmičenjima, predavanjima, izložbama, filmskim projekcijama... Posebno mesto u programu zauzeće trio svetski priznatih majstora gitare „Kings of strings“. A svoj prvi koncert pred beogradskom publikom održaće Konča Buika, trenutno najveća flamenko i džez diva. Info: www.gaf.rs

60tH BELGRADE FEstIVAL OF DOCUMENtARY AND sHORt FILM

60. BEOGRADsKI FEstIVAL DOKUMENtARNOG I KRAtKOMEtRAŽNOG FILMA

ESSENCE IN SHORT FORM

SUŠTINA U KRATKOJ FORMI

2nd – 6th April, Dom Omladine

he Festival of Documentary and short Film is one of the oldest film festivals specific to film narratives. For sixty years it has offered viewers a realistic picture of the world, the essence packed into a short time of display, without ideals and happy endings. Info: www.kratkimetar.rs

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2–6. april, Dom omladine

estival dokumentarnog i kratkometražnog filma jedna je od najstarijih smotri specifičnog filmskog kazivanja. Već šezdeset godina nudi gledaocima stvarnu sliku sveta, suštinu upakovanu u kratko vreme prikazivanja, bez ideala i hepienda. Info: www.kratkimetar.rs

E V E N T S

D O G A Đ A

10tH BELGRADE DANCE FEstIVAL

10. BEOGRADsKI FEstIVAL IGRE

TEN YEARS OF DANCE

DESET GODINA IGRE

5th – 19th April, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Belgrade Drama Theatre, Theatre on Terazija, Madlenianum, Sava Centre

5–19. april, Jugoslovensko dramsko pozorište, Beogradsko dramsko pozorište, Pozorište na Terazijama, Madlenianum, Centar „Sava“

he Belgrade Dance Festival turns ten years old and is being organized under the auspices of the EU Delegation to serbia in order to promote the spread of European values in culture. this year’s festival will include performances of the Vienna state Ballet, Ballet Jazz Montreal, the swedish Cullberg Ballet, Danish Dance theatre, Ballet Preljokaž, MaggioDanza, the Beijing Dance theatre and many others. Info: www.belgradedancefestival.com

DAYs OF BELGRADE

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eogradski festival igre puni deset godina, a organizuje se pod pokroviteljstvom Delegacije EU u srbiji radi promovisanja i širenja evropskih vrednosti u kulturi. Na ovogodišnjem festivalu nastupiće Bečki državni balet, Balet Jazz Montreal, švedski Kulberg balet, Danski plesni teatar, Balet Preljokaž, MaggioDanza, Pekinški plesni teatar i mnogi drugi. Info: www.belgradedancefestival.com

DANI BEOGRADA

16th –19th April

16–19. april

CITY DATES

GRADSKI DATUMI

ays of Belgrade are held from 16th to 19th April. the event is dedicated to important dates in the history of the city – 16th April 878 is the date on the first surviving printed document mentioning the name of Belgrade and 19th April 1867 was the day when the turks surrendered the keys of the city to Prince Mihailo Obrenović. Every year during those four spring days there are a series of cultural, tourist, educational, sporting and humanitarian events and programmes. Info: www.beograd.rs

ani Beograda održavaju se od 16. do 19. aprila. Manifestacija je posvećena značajnim datumima u istoriji grada – 16. april 878. godine, datum koji je ispisan na prvom sačuvanom dokumentu u kojem se pominje ime Beograda i 19. april 1867. godine, dan kada su turci predali ključeva grada knezu Mihailu Obrenoviću. svake godine u ta četiri prolećna dana nižu se kulturni, turistički, obrazovni, sportski, humanitarni i protokolarni programi. Info: www.beograd.rs

26tH BELGRADE MARAtHON

26. BEOGRADsKI MARAtON

RACE THROUGH THE CIITY

TRKA KROZ GRAD

21st April

he Belgrade Marathon is the largest sporting event in our country with the most massive participation, which was proclaimed by City Hall as an event of special significance for the city. the Belgrade Marathon includes the 5-km Fun Run, half-marathon and full marathon. Another integral part of the programme is the Children’s Marathon, which takes place at the Belgrade Zoo. Info: www.bgdmarathon.org

21. april

eogradski maraton najveća je i najmasovnija sportska manifestacija u našoj zemlji, koja je odlukom skupštine grada proglašena za događaj od posebnog značaja za grad. Beogradski maraton sadrži trku zadovoljstva na 5 km, polumaraton i maraton. sastavni deo programa je Dečji maraton, koji se održava u beogradskom Zoološkom vrtu. Info: www.bgdmarathon.org

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

C O N C E R T S

MAstERs OF DIRt

K O N C E R T I MAstERs OF DIRt

6th April, Kombank Arena

6. april, Kombank arena

GLADIATORS OF THE 21st CENTURY

GLADIJATORI 21. VEKA

asters of dirt - najveći je „freestyle“ događaj na svetu. to je šou program sa didžejevima i gutačicama vatre, ali i predstava vratolomija koje izvode najbolji ekstremni sprortisti, s pravom prozvani gladijatori 21. veka. Obavezni deo programa čine vožnje motora, bicikla, kvadova, motornih sanki i automobila sa specijalnim efektima.Info: www.kombankarena.rs www.mastersofdirt.com

asters of Dirt - is the greatest “freestyle” event in the world. It’s a show programme with DJs and fire eaters, but also presents stunts performed by the best extreme sprortsmen, rightly dubbed the gladiators of the 21st century. A mandatory part of the programme consists of motorcycles, bikes, quads, snowmobiles and cars with special effects. Info: www.kombankarena.rs www.mastersofdirt.com

BEYONCE

BIJONs

15th April, Kombank Arena

15. april, Kombank Arena

ENERGY ON STAGE

ENERGIJA NA BINI

fter a three-year break, one of the world’s biggest pop and R & B stars today, energetic singer Beyonce Knowles, launches her European and world tour “the Mrs. Carter show World tour”. the tour will travel to twenty European cities, starting precisely in Belgrade. the team rented the Belgrade Arena for three days – 13th, 14th and 15th April, in order to carry out two full rehearsals prior to the concert. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

akon tri godine pauze, jedna od najvećih pop i r’n’b zvezda danas, energična pevačica Bijons Noules, kreće u svoju evropsku i svetsku turneju „the Mrs. Carter show World tour“. turneja će gostovati u dvadeset evropskih gradova, a počinje baš u Beogradu. Ekipa je zakupila Beogradsku halu za tri dana - 13, 14. i 15. april, kako bi održali dve probe pre koncerta. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

C O N C E R T S ELEMENts

K O N C E R T I ELEMENts

20th April, Kombank arena

20. april, Kombank arena

NEW DIMENSION IN ENTERTAINMENT

NOVA DIMENZIJA ZABAVE

lements is the ultimate audio-visual spectacle, at which the audience will feel like they are in a huge movie theatre, because the music is aligned with the visual effects. the most striking element of the spectacle is the magnificent scenery with a large number of lighting fixtures, LED screens, lasers, pyrotechnic elements and video-mapping of scenery like never before seen. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

RAMstEIN

lements predstavlja vrhunski audio-vizuelni spektakl, na kojem će se publika osećati kao u ogromnom bioskopu, jer je muzika usklađena sa vizuelnim efektima. Najupečatljiviji element spektakla je veličanstvena scenografija sa velikim brojem rasvetnih tela, LED ekrana, lasera, pirotehničkih elemenata i video-mapingom scenografije kakav još nije viđen. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

RAMŠtAJN

28th April, Kombank arena

28. april, Kombank arena

IT STILL TURNS

IPAK SE OKREĆE

n the past two years Ramstein have left several million people breathless with their spectacular performances. the machine continues to turn in 2013. Wir halten das tempo (We’re Keeping Pace) is the motto of the band in 2013. Moving to the Old Continent, at major European festivals and concert halls. With they biggest hits they will also perform at the Belgrade Arena this spring. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

MARK KNOPFLER

protekle dve godine Ramštajn je svojim spektakularnim nastupom ostavio bez daha više miliona ljudi. Mašina nastavlja da se okreće i u 2013. godini: Wir halten das tempo (Držimo korak) moto je benda za 2013. godinu. sele se na stari kontinent, na vodeće evropske festivale i u koncertne sale. sa svojim najvećim hitovima ovog proleća nastupiće i u Beogradskoj areni. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

MARK KNOPFLER

30th April, Kombank arena

30. april, Kombank arena

GOOD OLD ROCK

STARI DOBRI ROK

ark Knopfler, the voice and guitar of legendary band “Dire straits”, is one of the most respected and most commercial musicians of all time. He performs with his eight-member band as part of the promotion of their latest album “Privateering”. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

ark Knopfler, glas i gitara legendarne grupe „Dire straits“, jedan je od najcenjenijih i najkomercijalnijih muzičara svih vremena. Nastupa sa svojim osmočlanim bendom u okviru promocije najnovijeg albuma „Privateering“. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

IT â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A PROMISING SECTOR The IT sector is one of the fastest-growing sectors in Serbia, with double-digit annual growth in the years before the crisis (37 percent in 2007, and 19 percent in 2008) and one of the few that in the years of crisis recorded a growth. Software development and IT services have the greatest export potential within the IT sector. Serbia last year earned about 250 million US dollars from software exports, which is two times more than from exports of raspberries, which so far has been our biggest export advantage.

t is expected that this positive trend will continue in the future. According to forecasts by the analyst firm Mineco, an annual growth rate of between 18 percent and 31 percent in IT services is expected as of 2015, i.e., between 15 percent and 25 percent for the segment of software, which is almost identical to the projected growth rates for the whole IT industry (14-24 percent). CHARACTERISTICS OF IT SECTOR Intellectual capital, attractive labour costs, top experts and a high percentage of people who speak English are just some of the key advantages that Serbia has in relation to other countries in the region. Serbia is also wellpositioned, both geographically and structur-

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ally, so it represents an excellent and reliable alternative to larger markets. The IT sector employs highly-trained work force, of which more than 86 percent have a university degree. Local engineers are trained in a wide range of technologies that support the development of first-class software and integrated systems. A large number of Serbian companies offer very strong technical skills thanks to which they have already established long-term cooperation with foreign companies. For this reason, a large number of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading IT companies is already operating in Serbia. Some of them include: Cisco Systems, IBM, Intel, Siemens, Telenor, Redhat, Microsoft, and many others. On the global market, the Serbian companies

are mainly engaged in outsourcing software development, software testing and creating websites. The major markets are Germany, the United States, the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. DEVELOPMENT CENTRES AND SCIENTIFIC-RESEARCH PARKS In September 2005, Microsoft founded its fourth development centre in the world in Belgrade, which at first dealt only with projects related to Tablet PC technology. Over time, the number of projects increased, and with them the number of employees, and the name of the centre was changed into Microsoft Development Centre Serbia. There are currently a great number of initia-

tives to open scientific and technological parks in Belgrade, Novi Sad, Niš and Kragujevac. One technological park already exists in Vršac, and they are important for the promotion of synergies between universities and the business sector, and their goal is to create a good basis for innovation in the field of advanced technologies. SUPPORT TO IT SECTOR The state has recognised the potential of IT industry and therefore the Ministry of Finance and Economy prepared a package of measures to support the IT industry. This package should include support to teams who have ideas for the development of innovative software products, tax incentives for companies that produce software, measures to provide better education in this area, as well as passing legislation that should facilitate electronic commerce. The Serbian Investment and Export Promotion Agency (SIEPA), as an agency for the promotion

of exports, provides support to efforts of MFP, bearing in mind that the highest percentage of manufacturing of the IT sector is exportoriented. Through its programmes to support local exporters, SIEPA helps companies operating in the IT sector, including grants each year covering part of the costs that are associated with entering foreign markets – appearances at fairs and B2B events, the opening of representative offices abroad, certification of products and quality management systems, development of promotional materials. This year, for the 10th time in a row, SIEPA is organising participation of Serbian companies at the largest IT fair – CeBIT, to be held from the 5th to 9th March in Hanover. The Serbian national stand spanning 100 square metres will present seven domestic companies with their products and services: 2D Soft, ASW, Belit, ComData, Essential Dots, HTEC, Omnicom Solutions.

NEW PROGRAMME OF SUPPORT A new public call within the programme of support to domestic companies for appearing on the foreign markets is currently being prepared. It will be published at the end of the first quarter of this year. As of this year, in addition to costs for the appearance on the foreign market, SIEPA will partly reimburse IT companies’ costs for protecting intellectual property rights (designs, trademarks). All IT companies that would like to make suggestions for other types of expenses of appearance on the foreign markets that SIEPA should cover, or would like to suggest fairs at which they think SIEPA should organise a national stand next year are invited to do so through the website: http://www.sito.rs/rs/anketa/popuni/9. marijana jovanović Photo: SIEPA

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

S I E P A

P R E D S T A V L J A

IT – SEKTOR KOJI OBEĆAVA Sektor IT jedan je od onih koji u Srbiji najbrže napreduju, sa dvocifrenim godišnjim rastom u godinama pre krize (37% u 2007. i 19% u 2008. godini) i jedan od retkih koji je i u godinama krize beležio rast. Razvoj softvera i IT usluge imaju najveći izvozni potencijal u okviru IT sektora. Srbija je prošle godine od izvoza softvera zaradila oko 250.000.000 dolara, što je dva puta više od izvoza maline, koja je do sada bila naš najveći izvozni adut.

čekivanja su da će se ovo pozitivno kretanje nastaviti i u budućnosti. Prema prognozama analitičke kuće Mineco, do 2015. godine očekuje se godišnja stopa rasta između 18% i 31% za segment IT usluga, odnosno između 15% i 25% za segment softvera, što je skoro istovetno projektovanim stopama rasta za celu IT industriju (14%–24%). KARAKTERISTIKE IT SEKTORA Intelektualni kapital, atraktivna cena radne snage, vrhunski stručnjaci i visok procenat ljudi koji govore engleski jezik samo su neke od ključnih prednosti koje Srbija ima u odnosu na ostale zemlje regiona. Srbija je i odlično pozicionirana kako geografski tako i strukturno, pa predstavlja odličnu i pouzdanu alternativu većim tržištima.

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Sektor IT zapošljava visoko obučenu radnu snagu, od koje je čak 86% sa završenim fakultetom. Domaći inženjeri obučeni su za širok spektar tehnologija koje podržavaju razvoj prvoklasnog softvera i integrisane sisteme. Veliki broj srpskih kompanija nudi veoma jake tehničke veštine zahvaljujući kojima su već uspostavili dugotrajnu saradnju sa inostranim kompanijama. Upravo stoga veliki broj vodećih svetskih IT kompanija već posluje u Srbiji. Neke od njih su: Cisco Systems, IBM, Intel, Siemens, Telenor, Redhat, Microsoft i mnogi drugi. Na globalnom tržištu srpske kompanije se uglavnom bave autsorsingom razvoja softvera, testiranjem softvera i kreiranjem veb-sajtova. Glavna tržišta su: Nemačka, SAD, Velika Britanija i Holandija.

RAZVOJNI CENTRI I NAUČNOISTRAŽIVAČKI PARKOVI U septembru 2005. godine Majkrosoft je u Beogradu osnovao svoj četvrti Razvojni centar u svetu, koji se u početku bavio isključivo projektima vezanim za Tablet PC tehnologiju. S vremenom se broj različitih projekata povećavao, a s njima i broj zaposlenih, pa je ime centra promenjeno u Majkrosoft razvojni centar Srbija. Trenutno postoji veliki broj inicijativa za otvaranje naučnotehnoloških parkova u Beogradu, Novom Sadu, Nišu i Kragujevcu. Jedan tehnološki park već postoji u Vršcu. Oni su značajni za podsticanje sinergije između fakulteta i poslovnog sektora, a cilj im je i da stvore dobru osnovu za inovacije na polju naprednih tehnologija.

PODRŠKA IT SEKTORU Država je prepoznala potencijale IT industrije i zato Ministarstvo finansija i privrede priprema paket mera za podršku IT industriji. Ovaj paket trebalo bi da obuhvati podršku timovima koji imaju ideje za razvoj inovativnih softverskih proizvoda, poreske podsticaje za kompanije koje proizvode softver, mere koje treba da omoguće bolje obrazovanje u toj oblasti, te donošenje propisa koji treba da olakšaju elektronsko poslovanje. Kao agencija za promociju izvoza, SIEPA pruža podršku nastojanjima MFP, imajući u vidu da je najveći procenat proizvodnje IT sektora izvozno orijentisan. Svojim programima podrške domaćim izvoznicima SIEPA pomaže i kompanijama koje posluju u IT sektoru, pa tako bespovratnim sredstvima svake godine pokriva deo troškova koji su u vezi sa nastupom na inostranim tržištima – nastupi na sajmovima i B2B događajima, otvaranje predstavništva u inostranstvu, sertifikacije proizvoda i sistema za upravljanje kvalitetom, izrada promotivnih materijala. Ove godine deseti put po redu SIEPA organizuje nastup srpskih kompanija na najvećem IT sajmu – CeBIT, koji će biti održan od 5. do 9. marta u Hanoveru. Na nacionalnom štandu od 100 m² sedam domaćih kompanija predstaviće svoje

usluge i proizvode: 2D Soft, ASW, Belit, Comdata, Essentatial Dots, HTEC, Omnicom Solutions. NOVI PROGRAM PODRŠKE Trenutno je u pripremi i novi javni poziv u okviru programa podrške domaćim kompanijama za nastup na inostranom tržištu, koji će biti objavljen krajem prvog kvartala ove godine. Od ove godine, pored troškova nastupa na inostranom tržištu, SIEPA će IT kompanijama pokriti deo troškova zaštite intelektualne svojine (dizajna, žigova).

Sve IT kompanije koje bi želele da daju predloge za druge vrste troškova nastupa na inostranim tržištima koje bi SIEPA trebalo da pokrije, te da navedu sajmove na kojima smatraju da bi SIEPA trebalo da organizuje nacionalni štand tokom naredne godine, to mogu učiniti putem sajta: http://www.sito.rs/rs/anketa/popuni/9 marijana jovanović Foto: SIEPA

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

INTERVIEW - ODILIA STOKVIS, PRESIDENT OF THE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S CLUB

DOING FOR A GOOD CAUSE Mrs. Odilia Stokvis, president of the International Women’s Club, wife of the Ambassador of the Netherlands in Serbia, an art historian by training, is involved in the charity work of the association, which has been assisting various local projects and organizations for years. Last year’s Humanitarian IWC Bazaar collected record levels of funds. The club she leads also helps foreigners find their way in a new environment and get better acquainted with our country.

he International Women’s Club has its own charity committee. Who do you offer help to and what are your criteria? - We try to help vulnerable groups of people and different social projects. For instance, IWC supports a Roma children’s education programme run by the Centre for Youth Integration. A group of volunteers goes every morning to these Roma settlements, picks up the children and takes them to school. And in the afternoon they bring them back again. And it’s working!

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They are not on the streets of Belgrade begging, but are where they should be - at school. Another social project, Amity, is for mentally and physically handicapped people in the region of Kraljevo: they are brought out, taken on excursions, taken out of the isolation in which they often live. The IWC is also much involved in the Bread of Life project for the elderly in Belgrade. A group of members goes there regularly, cooks them lunch or plays bingo with them, and it’s great because it works both ways.

PLAYING RUGBY IN IWC POLO SHIRTS Thanks to IWC funding, children with Down syndrome have become a part of the Belgrade Royal Rugby Club. In the beginning they didn’t know how to pass a ball, but after two and a half years of training they are now running on the Ada rugby pitch and catching the ball. IWC also supports orphans, children with Down’s syndrome, the International Aid Network

GOODWILL, FRIENDSHIP AND UNDERSTANDING The International Women’s Club of Belgrade is a non-governmental and non-profit club run by volunteers. It has approximately 200 members from over 40 countries. With links to the diplomatic and international business communities, the IWC welcomes and assists newcomers to Serbia, promotes knowledge and understanding of Serbia, fosters goodwill and friendship among members and raises funds to support local humanitarian and community projects. The IWC – Belgrade provides opportunities for women from around the world to meet for social and cultural activities. Coffee mornings are held monthly and women with young children gather weekly for playdates. The IWC Interest Group and Activities Coordinator organizes frequent tourist visits around Belgrade. which helps vulnerable women, the Association of single mothers in Niš and many others... And, of course, we do have to see that the money is spent properly. So we do the monitoring

The main IWC event is the annual Charity Bazaar. What was the spirit of the last Charity Bazaar like? - We have the motto “Imagine what we can do together”. The Charity Bazaar is a very special event and an interesting one. This year there were 41 countries and several organizations. It is a huge collaboration of a lot of people who have managed to gather together goods from their own countries, sometimes they make things, and we try to sell them. Every penny we earn goes to charity. It has really become such a big event that attracts more and more attention year on year. It is a joint effort and is also sending a very strong message to Serbia that the international community cares enough to organize an event like this and help people who are really in trouble, as there are alas far too many of them. Relatively speaking, we don’t earn a fortune, but even with ?100,000.- you can do a lot in Serbia. Though it is a lot of work, we do it together and because we do it for an excellent cause it becomes really special. - Is there one particular place in Belgrade that is your favourite?

ART HISTORIAN AND BIRDWATCHER Mrs Odilia Stokvis participated in the charity project Cooking with the Ambassadors in Slovakia and also made pen-and-ink illustrations for the accompanying book. She is also co-author of the book Hollandia compendium - a comprehensive study of marine archaeology. She is interested in Byzantine architecture and has visited the Serbian monasteries of Ravanica and Manasija. She is planning to definitely visit the Studenica monastery complex and is also a keen birdwatcher. - Oh yes! Without any doubt: Kalenić Market. It’s my favourite place to go. I enjoy being there. It is always full of life and even though I don’t speak Serbian I have contact with people. I like to bargain and it gives me a little couleur locale. It’s fun and I enjoy it. m ilena m ihaljčić photographs: Darimira BanDa & IWC photo archive

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

I N T E R V J U - O D I L I A S TO K V I S , P R E D S E D N I C A M E Đ U N A R O D N O G K LU B A Ž E N A

DELANJE S DOBRIM RAZLOGOM Odilia Stokvis, predsednica Međunarodnog kluba žena, supruga ambasadora Kraljevine Holandije u Srbiji, istoričarka umetnosti po obrazovanju, angažovana je u humanitarnom radu ove asocijacije koja već godinama pomaže različite domaće projekte i organizacije. Prošlogodišnji humanitarni IWC bazar prikupio je rekordna sredstva. Klub koji vodi takođe pomaže strankinjama da se snađu u novoj sredini i bolje upoznaju našu zemlju.

eđunarodni klub žena ima svoj poseban humanitarni odbor. Kome sve pomažete i kakvi su vam kriterijumi? - Nastojimo da pomognemo ranjivim grupama ljudi i učestvujemo u različitim socijalnim projektima. Na primer, IWC podržava program obrazovanja romske dece pod okriljem Centra za integraciju mladih. Svakog jutra volonteri centra odlaze u romska naselja, tamo uzimaju decu i vode ih u školu, a popodne ih vraćaju kućama. I to odlično

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funkcioniše! Deca ne prose po ulicama Beograda, već su tamo gde i treba da budu – u školi. U regionu Kraljeva podržavamo Amity, koji pomaže mentalno ili fizički hendikepiranim ljudima. Aktivisti ove organizacije ljude izvode iz kuća, vode ih na izlete, izbavljuju ih iz izolacije u kojoj veoma često žive. Naš klub je dosta uključen i u projekat Hleb života namenjen starijim ljudima. Jedna grupa naših članica tamo redovno odlazi na susrete, kuvaju ručkove ili zajedno igraju bingo, i to je zaista sjajno,

jer postoji međusobna razmena. Pomažemo i siročad, decu s Daunovim sindromom, Međunarodnu mrežu pomoći koja se stara o ženama u nevolji, Udruženje samohranih majki u Nišu i mnogim drugim. Naravno, moramo da vodimo računa o tome da se novac namenski troši, tako da i to nadgledamo. Glavni događaj koji organizuje IWC je godišnji bazar. U kakvom duhu je protekao prošlogodišnji bazar?

DOBRA VOLJA, PRIJATELJSTVO I RAZUMEVANJE Međunarodni klub žena u Beogradu je nevladin, neprofitni klub, koji vode volonterke. Ima oko 200 članica iz više od 40 zemalja. Umrežen je s diplomatskom zajednicom i predstavnicima međunarodnog biznisa i njegova misija je da „poželi dobrodošlicu“ i pomogne ženama koje su tek stigle u Srbiju. Takođe, IWC promoviše saznanja i razumevanje Srbije, podstiče dobru volju i prijateljstvo među svojim članicama i prikuplja sredstva za humanitarne i društvene projekte. Ženama iz čitavog sveta omogućava da se druže i učestvuju u kulturnim dešavanjima. Prepodnevna druženja uz kafu organizuju se jednom mesečno, a žene s malom decom okupljaju se svake nedelje na „igraonicama“. Grupe za posebna interesovanja i njeni koordinatori često organizuju turističke obilaske Beograda i okoline. - Naš slogan je „Zamisli šta sve možemo da uradimo zajedno“. Bazar je zaista poseban i izuzetno zanimljiv događaj. Ove godine nastupila je 41 zemlja, uz još nekoliko organizacija. To je ogroman

zajednički napor velikog broja ljudi koji su sakupili razne proizvode iz svojih zemalja, ili su nešto sami napravili, i to prodaju. Svaki dinar koji zaradimo ide u humanitarne svrhe. Bazar je zaista postao veliki događaj, koji iz godine u godinu privlači sve veću pažnju. Takođe, on šalje snažnu poruku Srbiji da je međunarodnoj zajednici stalo da pomogne ljudima koji su u nevolji, a kojih, avaj, ima zaista mnogo. Mi ne uspevamo da zaradimo neko basnoslovno bogatstvo, ali čak i sa oko 100.000 evra u Srbiji može da se uradi dosta toga. Premda je to veliki ISTORIČARKA UMETNOSTI I POSMATRAČICA PTICA Gospođa Odilia Stokvis je u Slovačkoj učestvovala u humanitarnom projektu „Kuvanje s ambasadorima“ i za knjigu koja je tim povodom objavljena nacrtala je, tehnikom pera i mastila, specijalne ilustracije. Takođe, ona je koautor obimne studije iz oblasti podvodne arheologije – Hollandia compendium. Zanima je vizantijska arhitektura, i obišla je manastire Ravanicu i Manasiju, a svakako planira da poseti kompleks manastira Studenica. Gospođa Odilija je i posvećena posmatračica ptica.

RAGBI U MAJICAMA IWC Zahvaljujući sredstvima kluba, deca s Daunovim sindromom postala su članovi beogradskog Kraljevskog ragbi kluba. U početku nisu znali ni kako da dodaju loptu, ali posle dve i po godine treninga, trče po ragbi-terenu na Adi i vešto hvataju lopte. posao. Radeći ga zajedno i s pravim razlogom, to je zaista izuzetan događaj. Da li u Beogradu postoji neko mesto koje Vam je posebno drago? - Oh, da! Bez ikakve dileme – Kalenićeva pijaca. Tamo najviše volim da idem. Uživam u atmosferi, uvek vrvi od života. Iako ne znam srpski, uspevam da napravim kontakt s ljudima. Volim da se cenjkam, a sve skupa ima tu posebnu „boju podneblja“. Zabavno mi je i uživam u tome. milena mihaljčić fotografije: Darimir BanDa & IWC foto arhiva

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

H I D D E N

B E A U T Y

O F

B E L G R A D E

KISSING CORNERS

MESTA ZA LJUBLJENJE

Street art magicians don’t merely cover the walls of the city in a layer of spray paint. Two months ago, adding to the colour a little bit of love and a little rebellion, they have also left their mark on the pavement.

Streetart čarobnjaci ne odevaju samo zidove grada u ruho od spreja. Pre dva meseca, dodavši u boju malo ljubavi i malo bunta, ostavili su trag i na asfaltu.

n December, as part of the BeFem festival, communicologist Cornelia Szabo and famous Belgrade street artist TKV held a workshop on “Gender reading of the city”, which is the result of an idea to mark several squares for kissing at a few common meeting places in the city. Intervention on the tarmac was carried out by four students from the Faculty of Media and Communications: Sanja Seliškar, Anđela Čeh, Nikola Herman and Petar Đošev. The aim of the project is to spread love, but also to overcome prejudices about kissing in public. “It is precisely in these places between four public wall that all boundaries are erased. We are opening up places where it is permitted to kiss whoever you want, however you want (just as long as the other party agrees to it),” explains a statement on the Facebook group of this initiative. The project met with great support from Belgraders and so the team has announced that it will continue with the opening of new public - secret places according to their own senses, but also at the suggestion of fellow citizens.

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decembru su, u okviru BeFem festivala, komunikolog Kornelija Szabo i poznata beogradska ulična umetnica TKV održale radionicu „Rodno čitanje grada“, čiji je rezultat bila ideja da se kvadratom za ljubljenje obeleži nekoliko čestih sastajališta u gradu. Intervenciju na asfaltu sprovelo je četvoro studenata sa Fakulteta za medije i komunikacije: Sanja Seliškar, Anđela Čeh, Nikola Herman i Petar Đošev. Cilj projekta je širenje ljubavi, ali i rušenje predrasuda o ljubljenju u javnosti. „Baš na ovim mestima između četiri javna zida brišu se sve granice. Otvaramo mesta gde je dozvoljeno poljubiti koga god želite, kako god želite (samo da druga strana pristane na to)“, stoji objašnjenje na Fejsbuk grupi ove inicijative. Projekat je naišao na velike simpatije Beograđana, pa ekipa najavljuje da će nastaviti sa otvaranjem novih javnih – tajnih mesta prema sopstvenom sluhu, ali i na predloge sugrađana.

S K R I V E N E

L E P O T E

SOFT CITY CERAMICS There are birds nesting in the walls of Belgrade, on street signs, in transformer stations... They love the river, the confluence, reading Crnjanski, solving Pythagorean Theorem, advocating for attention, tenderness and love... And they are born in the imagination ceramist Mione Stefanović.

y idea was for those to be birds that symbolically land in neglected corners and leave a message, whisper secrets, because birds do that, they told us when we were little. For example, in autumn I made a flock of birds that head in a southerly direction and talk about Miloš Crnjanski’s Migrations. And on the first day of spring I stuck a crown of flowers which contained swallows, with the message: We’re back. I decided to make them out of porcelain because it is white, delicate, refined and the complete opposite of the street. And I liked it. I don’t always have an exact plan of what and how, for me it is enough for it to be nice and for someone to rejoice when they see it - explains Miona. She doesn’t only please her fellow citizens. Besides Belgrade, she has enriched the walls of cities in a dozen countries. And she is currently preparing a new series of ceramics, this time related to folk proverbs.

B E O G R A D A

NEŽNA GRADSKA KERAMIKA Postoje ptičice koje se gnezde na beogradskim zidovima, uličnim tablama, trafo-stanicama... Vole reke, ušća, čitaju Crnjanskog, rešavaju Pitagorinu teoremu, zalažu se za pažnju, nežnost i ljubav... A rađaju se u mašti keramičarke Mione Stefanović.

deja mi je bila da to budu ptice koje simbolično sleću u zapostavljene budžake i ostavljaju poruke, šapuću tajne, jer ptičice to rade, pričali su nam kad smo bili mali. Na primer, na jesen sam napravila jato ptica koje odlaze u pravcu juga i pričaju o Seobama Miloša Crnjanskog. A prvog dana proleća zalepila sam venac od cveća u kome su bile laste, sa porukom: Vratile smo se. Odlučila sam da ih pravim od porcelana, jer je on beo, nežan, prefinjen i potpuna suprotnost ulici. I to mi se dopalo. Nemam uvek tačan plan šta i kako, dovoljno mi je da bude lepo i da se neko obraduje kada to vidi - objašnjava Miona. Ona ne usrećuje samo svoje sugrađane. Pored Beograda, oplemenila je zidove u gradovima još desetak zemalja. A trenutno sprema novu seriju keramike, ovoga puta vezanu za narodne poslovice.

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

H I D D E N

B E A U T Y

O F

B E L G R A D E

INTERESTING ITEMS What links Pablo Picasso and The film the Battle of Neretva?

ablo Picasso left behind thousands of different works of art and only two film posters. One he did for the Spanish film An Andalusian Dog in 1929 and the other for the 1969 movie The Battle of Neretva. The story begins with one fateful meeting five years before the Neretva “originated” on the silver screen. Veljko Bulajić’s film Skopje 63 was shown in Monte Carlo and attracted the attention not only of the jury and the critics, but also the famous Spanish painter. Coincidentally, Picasso watched Bulajić’s documentary, liked it very much, and so came to the closing ceremony to congratulate him. A few years later Bulajić proposed that Picasso do the poster for his next film, The Battle of Neretva. Having seen the film, the painter agreed. He did a poster in his characteristic Cubism style on a bright red background that symbolised heroism, suffering, blood and the struggle for freedom. Bulajić needlessly worried whether company Jadran Film would have the funds to pay the fee, because all Picasso’s requested was for him to be sent a dozen bottles of wine from Yugoslavia. Dragana Barjaktarević

ZANIMLJIVOSTI Šta povezuje Pabla Pikasa i film „Bitka na Neretvi“?

ablo Pikaso iza sebe je ostavio nekoliko hiljada različitih umetničkih dela i samo dva filmska plakata. Jedan je uradio za španski film „Andaluzijski pas“ iz 1929, a drugi za film „Bitka na Neretvi“ iz 1969. godine. Priča počinje jednim sudbonosnim susretom, pet godina pre nego što je „Neretva“ „potekla“ filmskim platnima. Film „Skopje 63“ Veljka Bulajića na prikazivanju u Monte Karlu privukao je veliku pažnju ne samo žirija i kritičara već i čuvenog španskog slikara. Igrom slučaja Pikaso je pogledao Bulajićev dokumentarac, veoma mu se svideo, pa je došao na završnu svečanost da mu čestita. Nekoliko godina kasnije Bulajić je Pikasu predložio da uradi plakat za njegov sledeći film „Bitka na Neretvi“. Pošto je pogledao film, slikar je pristao. Uradio je plakat u svom karakterističnom kubizmu na jarko crvenoj pozadini koja simbolizuje herojstvo, stradanja, krv i borbu za slobodu. Bulajić se bespotrebno brinuo da li će Jadran film imati da isplati honorar, jer je jedini Pikasov zahtev bio da mu pošalje dvanaest boca vina iz Jugoslavije. Dragana Barjaktarević

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

METROPOL PALACE – A PLACE WHERE PEOPLE CELEBRATE AND GET TOGETHER

A BELOVED HOTEL

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

Belgraders joyfully bring back memories of various events at the Metropol Palace – birthday parties, graduation ceremonies, weddings, anniversaries, class reunions, New Year’s parties... There are many people who at the Metropol have awaited, celebrated or marked at least one important day in their life. For each of them, this hotel has a special personal symbolism and incites a particular association in them, but they all agree on one thing – that the Metropol is indeed a beloved Belgrade hotel.

n December last year, a married couple wished to celebrate their wedding anniversary at the Metropol – the hotel where they got married. That would be nothing unusual if they weren’t the couple who have spent a whole sixty years together! They saved the menu from their wedding lunch, and Jovica Nešković – the hotel’s chef – decided to surprise them and prepare the same menu as on their wedding day from a long time ago. Among other things, the table included the so-called ‘wedding cabbage dish’ that filled the hotel’s restaurant with a delicious scent. Drawn by the gourmet scent, a group of guests sitting at nearby tables ordered the same dish for lunch! There were some fifteen guests at this unusual anniversary event at the Metropol Palace and the bill was on the house. A NEW HISTORY OF CELEBRATIONS Throughout its history the Metropol dictated standards and it was a major place for parties and celebrations. It is well known for numerous New Year’s Eve parties, and the most famous and the most glamorous among them are linked to the name of the legendary president of Yugoslavia – Josip Broz Tito. In keeping with tradition, a New Year’s gala party was organised. It was conceived as a kind of spectacle composed of music, dance, fun and sophisticated food. The menu, especially created for the New Year’s Eve by the hotel’s chef, had as its “guiding idea” the intertwining of the

tastes of European and Asian cuisines. The cakes and wines, however, were another story. Tasting sparkling wine and before-midnight desserts, the younger generations welcomed the New Year 2013 in the Grand Ballroom, whereas the elderly ones celebrated the coming of the New Year in the elegant Royal Hall. Some new newlyweds celebrated their wedding at the hotel restaurant;

and the names of new birthday celebrants, fiancés, graduates were written into the hotel’s guest book... The Metropol has again become a place for celebrations and remembering new generations of Belgraders. POOL AND SPA CENTRE Building the life of the new Metropol Palace Hotel, which now operates as part of Starwood Luxury Collection hotels, on the foundations of the glorious “five star hotel” history and on the pillars of its rich tradition, the management of the hotel during a very short time returned the hotel not just to city guests, but to the citizens of Belgrade too. The former Metropol was a favourite place for relaxation and leisure, and the luxury spa centre, which offers specially designed treatments, a fitness room and a pool of as many as 25 metres in length, in the right way possible continues with that tradition. BeLGUeSt

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

METROPOL PALACE – MESTO ZA SLAVLJA I OKUPLJANJA

VOLJENI HOTEL Beograđani se rado sećaju raznih događaja u hotelu Metropol Palace, rođendana, matura, venčanja, godišnjica, okupljanja generacije, Novih Godina... Mnogo je ljudi koji su u Metropolu dočekali, proslavili ili obeležili bar jedan važan dan u svom životu. Za svakog od njih hotel ima neku ličnu simboliku i izaziva neku posebnu asocijaciju, ali se svi slažu oko jednog – da je Metropol zaista voljeni beogradski hotel.

decembru prošle godine, jedan bračni par poželeo je da proslavi godišnjicu braka u Metroplu - hotelu u kojem su se venčali. To ne bilo ništa neobično da se ne radi o ljudima koji su zajedno proveli čitavih šezdest godina! Sačuvali su meni sa svog svadbenog ručka, a Jovica Nešković - glavni kuvar hotela - odlučio je da ih iznenadi i napravi istovetan jelovnik kao na dan njihovog davnog venčanja. Između ostalog, na trpezu je iznesen i svadbarski kupus koji je zamirisao u hotelskom restoranu. Privučena gurmanskim mirisom, grupa okolnih gostiju tražila je za ručak – isto! Račun za petnaestak zvanica ove nesvakidašnje godišnjice častio je Metropol Palace. NOVA ISTORIJA SLAVLJA Tokom svoje istorije Metropol je diktirao standarde i bio glavno mesto za zabave i proslave.

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

Čuveni su brojni novogodišnji dočeci, a najslavniji i najraskošniji među njima vezani su za ime legendarnog predsednika Jugoslavije – Josipa Broza Tita. U skladu s tradicijom, ove godine priređena je novogodišnja gala svečanost koja je zamišljena kao svojevrsan spektakl sastavljen od muzike, plesa, zabave i sofisticirane hrane. Meni, koji je specijalno za novogodišnju noć kreirao šef kuhinje hotela, kao „ideju vodilju“ imao je prožimanje ukusa evropske i azijske kuhinje. Kolači i vina bili su priča za sebe. Uz penušavo vino i predponoćne poslastice Novu 2013. godinu mlađe generacije dočekale su u Velikoj balskoj dvorani, a starije u elegantnoj Kraljevskoj Sali. Neki novi mladenci slavili su svoje venčanje u hotelskom restoranu, u knjizi gostiju upisana su imena novih rođendanskih slavljenika, verenika, diplomaca... Metropol je

iznova postao mesto za slavlja i pamćenje novih genaracija Beograđana BAZEN I SPA CENTAR Gradeći život novog Metropol Palaca, koji sada pripada Starwood-ovim, Luxury Collection hotelima, na temeljima slavne istorije “od pet zvezdica” i na potki bogate tradicije, menadžment hotela je za kratko vreme vratio hotel ne samo gostima grada, već upravo Beograđanima. Nekadašnji Metropol bio je omiljeno mesto za opuštanje i razonodu, a luksuzni spa centar, koji nudi posebno osmisljene tretmane, fitness prostor i bazen od čak 25m dužine na pravi način nastavlja tu tradiciju. BeLGUeSt

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photo: Branko Jovanović

elcome to Belgrade! On these pages we present to you the regular tourist sightseeing programme of Belgrade and its surroundings. You can get to know the city by walking or riding tour buses, minibuses or the tram system. The city rivers’ sightseeing programme represents a special tourist offer. From these offers you can opt for special cultural-historical tours and programmes that will acquaint you with interesting segments of the tradition of Belgrade. The offer also includes day trips and excursions in the vicinity of Belgrade. Visit the website and information centres of the Tourism Organisation of Belgrade for more detailed information and to make reservations. www.tob.co.rs

WINTER | ZIMA 2013 BelGuest

obrodošli u Beograd! Na ovim stranicama predstavljamo vam redovne programe turističkih razgledanja Beograda i njegove okoline. Grad možete upoznati šetajući, vozeći se turističkim autobisima, minibusevima ili tramvajem. Posebnu ponudu čini program razgedanja grada s reka. Iz ove ponude možete odabrati specijalne kulturnoistorijske ture i programe koji će vas upoznati sa zanimljivim segmentima tradicije Beograda. U ponudi su jednodnevne ture i izleti u blizni Beograda. Posetite internet stranice Turističke organizacije Beograda i Informativne centre za detaljne informacije i rezervacije. www.tob.co.rs

TAKING A STROLL THROUGH BELGRADE ŠETNJE BE0GRADOM A STROLL THROUGH DOWNTOWN BELGRADE AND BELGRADE FORTRESS

Through this tour you will get to know the city centre, Belgrade Fortress and the largest green belt in Belgrade, Kalemegdan Park. Route: Albania Palace, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova St., Kralja Petra I St. (National Bank of Serbia, Cafe ”?” – Znak pitanja, Saborna cathedral Church, the Patriarchal Court, Princess Ljubica’s Residence, Pariska St., Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade Fortress (Upper Town) and the Cvijeta Zuzorić Artistic Pavilion. Departure: each Saturday in front of Albania Palace (minimum 5 persons) Language: Serbian (at 11:00) and English (at 13:00) Duration: 120 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Note: The tour depends on the weather

ŠETNJA KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Na ovoj turi upoznaćete uže jezgro grada, Beogradsku tvrđavu i najveći zeleni pojas Beograda - park Kalemegdan. Maršruta : Palata Albanija, Trg republike, Knez Mihailova, Ulica kralja Petra (Narodna banka Srbije, Kafana ?), Saborna crkva, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak kneginje Ljubice, Pariska ulica, park Kalemegdan, Beogradska tvrđava (Gornji grad), umetnički paviljon Cvijeta Zuzorić.

Polazak: svake subote ispred Palate Albanija Jezik: srpki (u 11h) i engleski (u 13h) Trajanje: 120 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Napomena: Polazak zavisi od vremenskih prilika

AUDIO GUIDE THROUGH BELGRADE FORTRESS

Since early spring 2011 visitors have been able to meet the Belgrade Fortress on their own, with the help of an audio guide. The guide is available in several languages – Serbian, English, French, Russian, Spanish and German. During a 90-minute story, visitors can tour 39 spots within the Belgrade Fortress. Along with the audio device, the visitor will receive a map marking all relevant pointsof interest. The audio guide can be hired in the outer part of Stambol Gate (near the basketball courts of Red Star and Partizan) at a price of 300 dinars every day from 10am to 6pm. You need to produce a personal ID document to hire the devide, while there are also devices adjusted for persons with impaired hearing.

AUDIO VODIČ KROZ BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Od početka proleća 2011. godine Beogradsku tvrđavu možete upoznati samostalno uz pomoć audio vodiča. Vodič je dostupan na šest jezika - srpskom engleskom, francuskom, ruskom, španskom i nemačkom. Za 90 minuta, koliko je ukupno traje priča, posetioci mogu obići 39 tačaka na Beogradskoj tvrđavi. Uz aparat, posetilac dobija i mapu na kojoj su ucrtane tačke o kojima postoje komentari. Audio vodič se iznajmljuje u spoljašnjoj Stambol kapiji (kod košarkaških terena Zvezde i Partizana) po ceni od 300 dinara, svakog dana od

BelGuest ZIMA | WINTER 2013

10.00 do 18.00 sati. Za iznajmljivanje aparata potreban je neki lični dokument, a postoje i aparati prilagođeni osobama sa oštećenim sluhom

SPECIAL CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL TOURS POSEBNE KULTURNO ISTORIJSKE TURE ROYAL PALACES

The palace complex of the Karađorđević Dynasty in Dedinje includes the Royal Palace and the White Palace. In addition to these two magnificent mansions and the park, visitors, accompanied by a special tour guide, will also visit the chapel dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle, who is the patron saint of the Royal Family. Info: www.kraljevina.org Departure: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Saturday and Sunday from 9th April to 31st October in two regular time slots Duration: two-hour guided tour Bookings: The entry ticket includes a round trip transfer tourist bus starting from Nikola Pasic Square. There is also the possibility to organise group tours during weekdays by previous appointment. For all information and reservations visitors must visit the Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 011 3281 859. Groups are limited to a maximum of 50 persons. Schools, students and pensioners’ associations interested in visiting the Royal Compound should call the Office of HRH Crown Prince Alexander directly on 011/306-4014 or email: a.radovanovic@dvor.rs

WINTER | ZIMA 2013 BelGuest

RAZGLEDANJE KRALJEVSKIH DVOROVA

Dvorski kompleks dinastije Karađorđević na Dedinju sastoji se od Kraljevskog i Belog dvora. Pored dva velelepna dvorska zdanja i parka, posetioci, uz pratnju profesionalnih turističkih vodiča, obilaze i dvorsku kapelu posvećenu Sv. Andreju Prvozvanom, zaštitniku kraljevske porodice. Info: www.kraljevina.org Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, svake subote i nedelje od 9. aprila do 31. oktobra. Trajanje: 120 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Prijave: Karta uključuje povratni transfer na Trg Nikole Pašića. Postoji mogućnost organizovnja grupnih poseta dvoru radnim danima, koje se prethodno moraju zakazati. Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859. Maksimalan broj turista u grupnom razgledanju je pedeset osoba. Škole, studenti i penzioneri zainteresovani za grupnu posetu dvoru treba da se najave kancelariji NjKV Princa Aleksandara direktno na broj 011/306-4014 i putem emaila: a.radovanovic@dvor.rs

BELGRADE TROUGH CITY MUSEUM(S)

Walking through a city is the best way to feel its rhythm. For that reason we suggest you to turn this tour into a stroll during which you can visit four museums: Princess Ljubica’s Residence, the Museum of Paja Jovanović, the Museum of Ivo Andrić and the Museum of Jovan Cvijić. Tickets for the Four Museums Tour programme cost a total of 200 dinars and can be purchased at the ticket offices of any of the museums included. Information: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

KROZ MUZEJ/E/ GRADA BEOGRADA

Najlepši način da se upozna grad, njegov duh, jeste proći kroz njega peške. Zato predlažemo da obilazak Beograda kroz muzej(e) grada Beograda bude lagana šetnja tokom koje mogu da se obiđu 4 muzeja: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej Paje Jovanovića, Muzej Ive Andrića i Muzej Jovana Cvijića. Ulaznica za program obilaska 4 muzeja je 200,00 dinara i može se kupiti na biletarnicama svakog od pomenutih muzeja. Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

A COFFEE WITH PRINCESS LJUBICA

“A Coffee with Princess Ljubica“is a special progamme intended to present the Residence of Princess Ljubica and the life in Belgrade during the rule of the Obrenović dynasty. A curator of the Belgrade City Museum will meet you as the hostess of the Residence, dressed in an early 19th-century costume. Along with the underlying historical story, you can hear interesting details about the private life of the ruling family. For this occasion, the Divan-khana, the central room in the residence where guests were received, is open to visitors. English language programme: available upon request Duration: 60 minute, Ticket price: 500 dinars Bookings: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime Markovica 8, tel. 2638 264; Group visits are available throughout the week if announced in advance either by phone 3283-504 or by e-mail office@mgb.org.rs.

NA KAFI KOD KNEGINJE LJUBICE

Programom “Na kafi kod kneginje Ljubice” predstavlja se život u Beogradu u vreme vladavine dinastije Obrenovic na jedan neuobicajen nacin. Kustoskinja Muzeja grada Beograda obucena u kostim iz perioda kneginje Ljubice dočekuje posetioce kao domaćica svoje palate. Prica kojom animira publiku je popularna i prilagođena turistickim turama obilaska muzeja. Pored osnovne istorijske priče saznaćete zanimljive detalje o privatnom životu vladarske porodice. Za ovu priliku otvorena je Divan hana, centralno mesto u Konaku gde su se tradicionalno dočekavili gosti i ispijala kafa. Program: svake subote u 12h u Konaku kneginje Ljubice Jezik: srpski Trajanje: 60 minuta, Cena ulaznice: 250 dinara Prodaja karata: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime Markovica 8, tel. 2638 264; Vanrednu predstavu moguće je zakazati na telefon: 3283-504 ili na office@mgb.org.rs

BELGRADE UNDERGROUND TOUR

A perfect way to discover the hidden secrets of Belgrade is to explore underground. These 5 underground places present older layers of Belgrade that various cultures built over ramparts of the conquered city, a scenario which occurred 38 times. Route: Roman Hall, Army bunker - from the time of the Cold War, Big gunpowder warehouse, Kosancic Square tunnels, wine cellar in the cave. Departure point: Gračanička 11, EuroJet agency, Tuesday 10am, Thursday 5:30 pm, Saturday 12am; Sunday 2pm. Duration: 2,5 hours

BelGuest ZIMA | WINTER 2013

In March & April 10% discount!

Hotel Accommodation Sightseeing Tours Transfers Business Service Rent-a-car Train, bus & air tickets Complete Service Assistance GUARANTIED DEPARTURES -pick up from hotels CITY TOUR-Daily ,at 10.50,2 Hours with photo stop, OPLENAC-Wed,at 14.00,4 Hours NOVI SAD-Thu, at 14.00,4 hours

www.metropoliten.com www.travelserbiabelgrade.com glob@metropoliten.com

Information: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Reservations are required because of limited number of guests

TURA PODZEMNIM BEOGRADOM

Otkrijte tajne Beograda na savršen način. Podzemni Beograd sadrži na stotine lokaliteta: pećina, laguma, zazidanih reka, tunela, bunkera i drugih građevina koje su uništavali i gradili narodi koji su naseljavali Beograd. Poseta lokalitetima će oslikati priče o neobičnoj istoriji Beograda, čudnim sudbinama i legendama, kao i odgovori na neke enigme koje vekovima podstiču znatiželju

WINTER | ZIMA 2013 BelGuest

Makenzijeva 26, 11000 Beograd, Srbija Telefoni: (011) 2430-852, (011) 2430-899, (011) 2437-483, (011) 2431-076

poznavalaca istorije i kulture. Ture vode pisci knjige Beograd ispod Beograda, profesor Vidoje Golubović i Zoran Nikolić. Maršruta: Rimska dvorana, vojni bunker iz vremena hladnog rata, Veliki barutni magacin, lagumi Kosančićevog venca, vinski lagum. Polazak: Gračanička 11, agencija EuroJet, sreda 17:30h, subota 14:30h, nedelja 11:00h Trajanje: 2.5 sata Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

TRAMVAJ ZVANI BEOGRAD

Belgrade tram in the 1960s

Maršruta: Polazak sa okretnice kod ZOO vrta, ulica Tadeuša Košćuška, stajanje kod Kalemegdana, Pristanište, Karađorđeva ulica pored Železničke stanice, Nemanjina, Resavska, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra do Vukovog spomenika, Kraljice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana do Beka. Polazak: Petak, od 19h do 20h/ tura na srpskom, subota: od 17h do 18h/ tura na srpskom Vreme trajanja: 60 minuta Rezervacije: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Program razgledanja iz tramvaja je besplatan, broj mesta je ograničen na 25 osoba .

BELGRADE BUS /TRAM/MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEOGRAD IZ AUTOBUSA, TRAMVAJA, MINIBUSA

BELGRADE BUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

Get to know Belgrade by cruising its city streets and enjoy the interesting stories of guides about the history, architecture and life of Belgraders. Through this tour you will be familiarised with the narrow core of the city and part of New Belgrade Route: Belgrade City Assembly, National Parliament, Terazije, Republic Square, Studentski Trg, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade, Topčider Hill, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Slavija Square, Nikola Pasic Square Departure point: 12 Nikola Pasic Square, every Saturday at 12.30 am (in English) and 11pm (Serbian) Duration: 90-minute guided tour; tickets sold onboard city buses Information: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA IZ AUTOBUSA

Upoznajte Beograd krstareći njegovim gradskim ulicama i uživajte u interesantnoj priči vodiča o istoriji grada, arhitekturi i životu Beograđana. Kroz ovu turu upoznaćete uže jezgro grada i deo Novog Beograda. Maršruta: Skupština grada Beograda, Dom Narodne skupštine, Terazije, Trg republike, Studentski trg, Beogradska tvrđava, Varoš kapija, Novi Beograd, Topčidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Trg Slavija, Trg Nikole Pašića Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, subotom u 11.00 (Srpski)) i u 12.30 (English) Trajanje: 90 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča; Karte se prodaju u autobusu Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859

A TRAM NAMED BELGRADE

Route: Departure from the tram terminal at the Zoo, Tadeuša Košćuška Street, Kalemegdan Park, the Port of Belgrade, Karađordjeva Street, Nemanjina Street, Resavska Street, King Aleksandar Boulevard, Vuk Stefanović Karadžićmonument, Kraljice Marije Street, George Washington Street and Tsar Dušan Street to Beko. Departure: Fridays from 8pm to 9pm / tours in english; Saturdays from 6pm to 7pm / tours in English Duration: 60-minute guided tour Reservations: Tourist Information Centre, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 The programme is free of charge; number of places limited to 25 persons petak:

BelGuest ZIMA | WINTER 2013

MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

A minibus passes by the main sights of the city. Departure: in front of the Hotel Balkan (Prizrenska 2) or another hotel at the clients’ request, weekdays at 10:50am Duration: three hours Tickets: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Makenzijeva 26, tel.2439-852, 2430-899, 2437483, 2431-076 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade.com In March & April 10% discount!

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA MINIBUSOM

Minibus obilazi atraktivne turističke ambijentalne celine grada. Polazak: hotel Balkan (Prizrenska 2), radnim danima, 10.50 h Trajanje: 180 min Prodaja karata: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Makenzijeva 26, tel. 2439-852, 2430-899, 2437-483, 2431-076 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade.com U martu i aprilu 10% popusta!

BELGRADE BY BICYCLE BEOGRAD BICIKLOM IBIKEBELGRADE TOUR

Professional English-speaking guides welcome you and take you to the bikes at the 25th May Sport Centre beside the Danube, within a 10-minute walk. Route: enjoy the Danube and Sava rivers, architectural highlights of the socialist era of Yugoslavia, the old city of Zemun and the green and beautiful island of Ada Ciganlija and its beach. Departure point: Kneza Mihailova street, in front of the Belgrade City Library, daily at 2pm Duration: four hours Price: €15 includes bike rental, guided tour, boat-ride and one free drink during the tour. Information: www.ibikebelgrade.com, tel. 066 900 8386

TURA IBIKEBELGRADE

Dočekaće vas profesionalni vodiči koji govore engleski i poželeti vam dobrodošlicu. Za desetk minuta hoda stići ćete do Sportskog centra 25. maj na obali Dunava, gde ćete odabrati bicikl. Maršruta: Uživaćete na obalama Dunava i Save, videćete neke arhitektonske domete iz doba jugoslovenskog socijalizma, staro jezgro Zemuna, lepu zelenu Adu Ciganliju i njene plaže. Polazak: Knez Mihailova ulica ispred zgrade Biblioteke grada Beograda, svakim danom u 14h Trajanje: četiri sata Cena: 15€ uključuje rentiranje bicikla, vodiča, prevoz brodom i jedno besplatno piće Informacije: www.ibikebelgrade.com, tel. 066 900 8386

SPECIAL TOURS SPECIJALNE TURE RAKIA TOUR OF BELGRADE

Tasting five different kinds of Rakia, served with appropriate snacks, in three different places in Belgrade, with the services of a professional guide in

WINTER | ZIMA 2013 BelGuest

Serbian, English, French or Italian Departure: Upon request, from one of Belgrade’s Rakia bars Information: www.metropoliten.com &www.rakiabar.com. Cell phone: 064/ 822-6626 Bookings: Glob Metropoliten Tours, tel:2430-852; 2430-899

BEOGRADSKA RAKIJA TURA

Ukoliko želite da osetite autentučni šarm Beograda i boemsku atmosferu uz organizovanu posetu Rakia barovima, gde uz pratnju stručnog vodiča možete više da saznate o rakiji i Beogradu i probate pet različitih rakija na tri različite lokacije koje se služe uz posebnu vrstu mezetluka koji pojačava i uokviruje sam ukus rakije. Polazak: Po dogovoru, iz jednog od Rakia barova. Informacije: www.metropoliten.com & www.rakiabar.com, Mob: 064/8226626 Rezervacije: Glob Metropoliten Tours, tel:2430-852; 2430-899

BELGRADE GARDENS: ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN & BOTANICAL GARDEN JEVREMOVAC THE GARDEN OF GOOD HOPE

The Zoological Garden, founded in 1936, is located in Kalemegdan and is part of the Belgrade Fortress, Belgrade’s most important cultural and historic monument. Along with a great variety of attractive animal residents, such as white lions, giraffes, monkeys, and cheetahs, at the zoo you will also see many sculptures, three of which are specifically dedicated to authentic heroes from the animal world. The Belgrade Zoological Garden is open year round. Informaton: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26.

VRT DOBRE NADE

Zoolški vrt se nalazi na Malom Kalemegdanu, u okviru najznačajnije ambijentalne celine Beograda- Beogradske tvrđave. Utemeljen je 1936. godine. Uz veliki broj različitih i atraktivnih životinja, kao što su beli lavovi, žirafe, majmuni... Zoolški vrt je mesto na kojem ćete videti brojne skulpture, od kojih su neke posvećene autentičnim herojima iz sveta životinja. Zoolški vrt je otvoren čitave godine Informacije: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26

JEVREMOVAC BOTANICAL GARDENS

The Jevremovac Botanical Gardens is a monument to nature and a cultural monument of the city. Along with the Institute for Botany, the garden is a teaching unit of the Belgrade Biology Faculty. The botanical garden is home to around 1,000 species of plant and includes a 500m2 glasshouse that was erected way back in 1892. Duration: One hour Departure point: Main gate of the Botanical Gardens (Takovska 43) Working hours: 9am-7pm Informaton: Tel. 3246-655

BOTANIČKA BAŠTA JEVREMOVAC

TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA BEOGRADA WWW.TOB.CO.RS Republic Square /Trg republike 011 3281 859 (Weekdays & Saturday from 9am to 9pm, Sundays 10am-3pm) Airport Nikola Tesla /Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 011 2097-828 (every day from 9am -9.30 pm) Main Railway Station /Glavna železnička stanica 011 361-2732 (Weekdays & Saturday 7am-1.30pm, Sundays closed) Zemun Tourist Centre /Turistički centar Zemun, Magistratski trg 1 tel. 011 377-8535 (Mondays through Frydays from 9am to 3pm, Saturdays, from 9am to 1pm) TOS Information Center /Informativni centar TOS Čika Ljubina 8/I, tel.011 6557 127 (Mondays through Saturdays from 9am to 9pm )

Botanička bašta Jevremovac je spomenik prirode i spomenik kulture grada. Ona je zajedno sa Institutom za botaniku nastavna jedinica Biološkog fakulteta u Beogradu. U Botaničkoj bašti se nalazi oko 1.000 biljnih vrsta, a staklena bašta od 500 kvadratnih metara podignuta je još 1892. godine. Trajanje obilaska: 1 sat Polazak: Glavna kapija botaničke bašte (Takovska 43) Radno vreme: 9-19h Informacije: Tel. 3246-655

BelGuest ZIMA | WINTER 2013

T H R O U G H B E LG R A D E F O L LOW I N G T H E F O OTS T E P S O F N I KO L A T E S L A

AN UNFORGETTABLE VISIT OF THE GREAT MAN “On Wednesday, on the 20th this month, at 11 o’clock in the evening, Mr. Nikola Tesla, a Serb, a famous electrical engineer, a citizen of the free America, an internationally renown scientist, whose name stirrs up the whole educated world, arrived in Belgrade.” This is how on the 24th of May 1982 the “Serbian Newspapers” informed its readers on the visit to their most famous compatriot

The Centre for Cultural Initiatives “Kulttura” has been, for five years now, enriching the cultural tourist offer of Belgrade with its sightseeing programmes. Merged under the common title “Belgrade walks”, they include the “Literary Guide to Belgrade,” which follows the footsteps of fourteen Belgrade writers, “Belgrade Music Time Machine” and “Sweet Belgrade”, as well as three new programmes “Tesla in Belgrade”, “Belgrade’s endowers”, and “Beography”, a programme for children. The programme will begin in late March. More information from mid-March on the website and www.beogradskesetnje.rs and www.belgradeonfoot.com as well as on the phone 066/056906. from the world, but hardly any of them can be measured, by the emotion and spontaneity, with this one that lasted for less than 32 hours. No photograph remained as a testimony of the event, but news reports describing the atmosphere during the visit did remain. The programme of a three-hour walk “Tesla in Belgrade – Through Belgrade Following the Footsteps of Nikola Tesla” is designed as a reminder of a bygone meeting of the young scientist whose fame will grow with age, and the capital of the young Serbian kingdom, which was rushing to get modernised as soon as possible. This is yet another contribution to the memory of the man who, with his mind and knowledge, won over Belgrade even before he arrived in it, and then he did it with his simplicity, modesty and patriotism.

fter a stay in London and Paris, where he presented his research, then in his native region of Lika, Tesla stayed in Budapest, which the Belgrade municipality administration used and invited him to visit the Serbian capital. Besides the great honour that the visit had, it was also supposed to have a practical side; the city was preparing for the electrification and an advice from the learned Serb was to be of great help. The visit started with a ceremonial welcome by the officials and thrilled youth at Belgrade’s railway station. Equally thrilled were the students of the Great School, ordinary people along the Kalemegdan promenade, as well as the most prominent citizens at the farewell banquet, when Jovan Jovanović Zmaj read out his song dedicated to Tesla. During his stay in Belgrade, the distinguished guest visited the Ministry of Education, and was received by the young King Aleksandar Obrenović and the First Governor. He also visited the National Museum. The history of Belgrade has recorded visits with more numerous and more spectacularly organised welcoming ceremonies for royalty and statesmen

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

JOVO anĐiĆ Photographs:The National Library of Serbia & Nikola Tesla Museum

Theatre Square at the time of Tesla’s visit

K R O Z

B E O G R A D

T R A G O M

N I K O L E

T E S L E

NEZABORAVNA POSETA VELIKANA „U sredu 20 ovog meseca u 11 sati u veče došao je u Beograd čuveni elektrotehničar g. Nikola Tesla, Srbin, građanin slobodne Amerike, naučenjak svetskog glasa, čije ime zanima sav obrazovan svet.“ Tako su 24. maja 1892. godine „Srpske novine“ obavestile svoje čitaoce o poseti najčuvenijeg sunarodnika.

Bilo je u istoriji Beograda poseta sa brojnijim i spektakularnije organizovanim dočecima kraljevskih i državničkih glava iz sveta, ali se malo koja, po emocijama i spontanosti, može meriti sa ovom, koja je trajala kraće od 32 sata. Nije ostala nijedna fotografija kao svedočanstvo tog događaja, ali jesu novinski izveštaji koji prenose atmosferu tokom posete. Program tročasovne šetnje „Tesla u Beogradu – Kroz Beograd tragom Nikole Tesle“ zamišljen je kao podsećanje na davni susret mladog naučnika, čija će slava s godinama rasti, i prestonice mlade srpske kraljevine, koja žuri da se što pre modernizuje. To je još jedan doprinos sećanju na čoveka koji je svojim umom i znanjem osvojio Beograd i pre nego što je u njega stupio, a potom to učinio i jednostavnošću, skromnošću i rodoljubljem.

Miloša Velikog Street

JOVO anĐiĆ Fotografije: Narodna biblioteka Srbije i Muzej Nikole Tesle

osle boravka u Londonu i Parizu, gde je predstavio svoja istraživanja, potom u rodnoj Lici, Tesla je boravio u Budimpešti, što je uprava Beogradske opštine iskoristila da ga pozove da poseti srpsku prestonicu. Pored časti koju bi učinio svojom posetom, ona je trebalo da ima i praktičnu stranu, grad se spremao za elektrifikaciju i savet učenog Srbina bio bi od velike pomoći. Poseta je počela svečanim dočekom zvaničnika i oduševljene omladine na beogradskoj železničkoj stanici. Jednako oduševljenje izazvali su i susreti sa studentima Velike škole, sa običnim svetom na kalemegdanskom šetalištu, te sa najuglednijim građanima na oproštajnom banketu, kada je svoju pesmu posvećenu Tesli pročitao pesnik Jovan Jovanović Zmaj. Tokom boravka ugledni gost je posetio Ministarstvo prosvete, bio primljen kod mladog kralja Aleksandra Obrenovića i prvog namesnika. Posetio je i Narodni muzej. Centar za kulturne inicijative „Kultura“ već pet godina obogaćuje turističkokulturnu ponudu Beograda programima razgledanja. Objedinjeni zajedničkim nazivom „Beogradske šetnje“, to su pored „Književnog vodiča kroz Beograd“, koji prati tragove četrnaest beogradskih pisaca, „Beogradski muzički vremeplov“ i „Slatki Beograd“, i tri nova programa „Tesla u Beogradu“, „Beogradski zadužbinari“ i „Beografija“, program za najmlađe. Realizacija programa započeće krajem marta. Detaljnije informacije od sredine marta na Internet adresi www.beogradskesetnje.rs i www.belgradeonfoot.com i na telefon 066/056906.

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

INFO: Aquastar Danube Dunavski kej 1 19320 Kladovo, Srbija Tel.: +381 (0)19 810 810 Fax: +381 (0)19 810 800 e-mail za informacije: info@hotelkladovo.rs e-mail za rezervacije:office@ hotelkladovo.rs www.hotelkladovo.rs www.odmornadunavu.rs

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NEW CRUISE SHIP ON DANUBE After several decades, tourists and visitors will be able to enjoy in the voyage down the most exciting and most beautiful part of the Danube River course. Specially designed Aquastar Maxim cruise ship will set off on the route Belgrade - Kladovo - Belgrade. The twoday package includes a stay in a comfortable hotel in Kladovo, the Aquastar Danube, visiting some exceptionally valuable monuments of culture and relaxation in the hotel’s wellness and spa centre.

n late March, Aquastar Maxim will set off from Belgrade on its first voyage from the Dobrila pier under the Gazelle Bridge. From the 1st of June it will sail regularly twice a week: on Fridays downstream from Belgrade to Tekija or Kladovo, and on Tuesdays upstream from Kladovo to Belgrade. Visitors who choose to sail downstream will return by bus and on the way to Belgrade they’ll be sightseeing eastern Serbia, while the “reverse” touring group travels from Kladovo by bus and returns to Belgrade by boat sailing on the Danube River. The price is 14,000 dinars, and it includes lunch on board and half-board accomodation for two days. DANUBE’S NEW WATER STAR Mileta Adžić, nautical enthusiast and successful businessman, built the exclusive Aquastar Danube

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

Hotel in Kladovo. Aware of the fact that providing a marine connection would prove very important for both the hotel’s offer and the Danube’s overall tourist offer, he decided to embark upon another business venture by building a modern cruise ship and has designed it according to the latest nautical standards. The ship has 100 seats, a restaurant and a bar, while its most attractive part is an open deck HOTEL ON A SANDY BEACH The luxurious Aquastar Danube Hotel offers not only to quality accommodation, but also a top quality spa and wellness programme. The centre also has a saltwater pool, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and well-equipped gym. The gastronomic offer of the hotel restaurants brings a delicious table of food and wines.

from which passengers can observe unique views of this most beautiful parts of the fascinating Đerdap ‘Iron Gate’ Gorge. The voyage has been designed to offer passengers a full spectrum of content that reveals the beauty of the gorge and the Đerdap National Park, as well as the valuable cultural, historical and ethnic heritage of this part of Serbia. Interestingly, the Aquastar Maxim was designed by domestic company Brodoprojekt and built by local company Almag from Kladovo. With its attractive new mini cruises and a variety of programmes that complement any stay at Aquastar, a great and eventful season is surely on the horizon. BeLGUeSt

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NOVI BROD NA DUNAVU Posle više decenija turisti i izletnici moći će da uživaju u plovidbi najuzbudljivijim i najlepšim delom toka Dunava. Specijalno projektovan turistički brod Aquastar Maksim ploviće na relaciji Beograd–Kladovo–Beograd. Dvodnevni paket-aranžman obuhvata boravak u udobnom hotelu Aquastar Danube u Kladovu, obilazak izuzetno vrednih spomenika kulture i opuštanje u hotelskom Wellness i Spa centru.

rajem marta Aquastar Maksim kreće iz Beograda na svoju prvu plovidbu sa pristana „Dobrila” ispod mosta Gazela. Od 1. juna redovno će ploviti dva puta nedeljno: petkom nizvodno od Beograda ka Tekiji ili Kladovu, a utorkom uzvodno od Kladova do Beograda. Gosti koji odaberu nizvodnu plovidbu vraćaju se autobusom za Beograd i usput obilaze znamenitosti istočne Srbije, a „obrnuta” tura putuje do Kladova autobusom, a vraća se Dunavom do Beograda. Cena aranžmana je 14.000 dinara, a u nju je uključen ručak na brodu i dva polupansiona u hotelu Aquastar. NOVA VODENA ZVEZDA DUNAVA Zaljubljenik u nautiku i uspešan poslovni čovek Mileta Adžić izgradio je ekskluzivni hotel Aquastar

Danube u Kladovu. Svestan činjenice da je i za ponudu samog hotela, ali i za ukupnu turističku ponudu Dunava izuzetno važna brodska veza, odlučio se na novi poslovni poduhvat: izgradio je rečni turistički brod, koji je projektovan po najsavremenijim nautičkim standardima. Aquastar Maksim ima 100 mesta, restoran, bar, a njegov HOTEL NA PEŠČANOJ PLAŽI Hotel visoke kategorije Aquastar Danube, pored kvalitetnog smeštaja, nudi i vrhunski Welness i Spa program. Centar ima bazen sa slanom vodom, saune, đakuzi, masažere, dobro opremljenu teretanu. Gastronomska ponuda hotelskih restorana nudi i bogatu trpezu i vina sa „geografskim pečatom”.

najatraktivniji deo je otvorena paluba sa koje će putnici moći da posmatraju neponovljive prizore Đerdapske klisure. Plovidba je osmišljena tako da putnicima pruža čitavu skalu sadržaja koji otkrivaju lepote klisure i Nacionalnog parka Đerdap, vredno kulturno, istorijsko i etničko nasleđe ovog dela Srbije. Kuriozitet je da je brod Aquastar projektovalo domaće preduzeće „Brodoprojekt”, a izgradila ga je takođe domaća firma „Almag” iz Kladova. Uz atraktivnu plovidbu novim brodom i raznovrsne programe razgledanja koji upotpunjuju boravak u Aquastaru, na pomolu je jedna odlična i sadržajna sezona. BELGUEST

BelGuest ZIMA | WINTER 2013

TO S R e cO m m e n d S: naTiO na l enS e mble “KOlO”

PERFECT CIRCLE In addition to the material culture heritage in museums, another important testament to ancient times is the mass of folk songs and the small steps that accompany them. The “Kolo” national ensemble is the most important institution in the country protecting Serbian dances, songs, music, costumes and customs and retaining their memory and reviving them on stage – both in front of home fans and foreign audiences.

he folk dance is one of the basic features of each country. What is the Syrtaki to Greece or flamenco to Spain is the Kolo to us. The Serbian word ‘kolo’ means ‘wheel’, a circle without beginning or end in which continuity is sensed eternally. So, in accordance with that symbolism, the national ensemble “Kolo” has been turning for 65 years already, from anniversary to anniversary, each one more perfect and all with increasing fervour. in 1948 at the Stanković music school, under a regulation of the Government of Serbia, the ensemble of Folk dances of Serbia was founded (only five

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

years later, upon request of the dancers themselves, the ensemble gained the name “Kolo”) AND IT ALL BEGAN... at the head of the young institution was mrs Olga Skovran, an acclaimed choreographer, teacher and, as time would tell, a capable manager. The ensemble brought together a team of excellent dancers who could accomplish even the most demanding tasks on the scene. Seven months of training were crowned with the first performance at the national Theatre in belgrade. The ensemble performed to the choreography of Olga Skovran the banat boys’

dance, Kalač and dances from Serbia. Then began moves to new choreography, new performances and new applause. The next year saw the ensemble gain support in voices and music – a 30-member choir and an orchestra. Shortly after was established an expert council, which comprised Stana Klajn, music critic and musicologist, dragutin Čolić, composer, author and educator, maga magazinović, the woman who brought modern dance to Serbia, and choreographer branko marković. Within just a year of work the ensemble became a compact artistic collective. The result of such work was already visible by the

FOREIGNERS PRAISE “KOLO” “This is the most exciting event in New York this fall. Complicated dances are performed masterfully and members of the troupe deserve our praise. Do not miss the opportunity to see the Kolo!” New York Times “The State Ensemble Kolo will do more to awaken understanding between our two nations than ten diplomatic conferences. The whole show is first class and the dances are performed with such passion and vitality that they instigate the sincere enthusiasm of the audience.” Sunday Times “The great vitality and beauty, not only of their dancing but also their many costume changes, made this concert an evening worth remembering. Their concert was the epitome of perfection.” Los Angeles Herald

end of the year. it received its first recognition. On 31st december 1949 the Yugoslav Government awarded the ensemble with a prize for the successes achieved in the nurturing and treatment of folk dances, while Olga Skovran was awarded for her artistic leadership. The award was an incentive for even more devoted work, so in addition to numerous concerts in the country, in march 1950 Kolo went to Switzerland for its first foreign trip.

parquet floors of domestic theatres and the world’s most prestigious halls - metropolitan, castle Sajo, carnegie Hall, Royal Festival Hall, the cologne Opera, Teatro Fenice, the bolshoi Theatre, Grand casino in Geneva, the Sydney Opera House, liderhala in Stuttgart, Stade Hall in Vienna... Fitting into that period are also stellar statistics: more than six thousand concerts, twelve million spectators, 140 pieces of choreography. but there stands much more than just numbers – sweat and smiles, exhaustion and the fulfilment of the soul, demanding challenges and lots of fun, different temperaments and balanced movements – the necessary contrasts for a sustainable and durable future. and

such a future is guaranteed by the team that stands behind every perfect presentation. The members of Kolo are not only flawless dancers, but also superb singers and actors. and always collaborating with the ensemble are the best choreographers, musicians, composers, conductors, expert associates, ethnomusicologists, ethnologists, ballet dancers and others, who have built up the unique artistic style of Kolo, expressed primarily in the diversity of theatrical and musical processing. JUBILEE Ten years ago, on the occasion of the 55th anniversary of the Kolo ensemble’s successful work in nurturing, presenting and disseminating folk art and cultural heritage in the country and abroad, it received the medal of Vuk Karadžić of the first degree. This year it is again celebrating an anniversary. marking the 65th artistic season began on 9th October 2012 at the national Theatre with a performance of the stage-musical work “calvary and Resurrection of Serbia,” which is dedicated to the celebration of important dates in the nation’s history. after that, on 23rd december, followed a major concert of “Guardians of tradition” at the Sava centre. The Foundation day of the ensemble, 15th may, will be appropriately marked. in one place will be brought together dancers and singing stars, heads of orchestras, directors, assistants, all those people thanks to whom the Kolo ensemble has shone for 65 years. The crowning glory, however, will be the monograph, which will preserve the mission and work of Kolo for future times. Dragana Barjaktarević photographs: ensemble kolo archive

ENVIABLE REPUTATION The years passed, generations of dancers came and went, programmes were adjusted, the number of tours, awards, national and international recognition increased. The only thing that has not changed is the basic mission of the ensemble - promoting our dances, songs, music, costumes and customs. The choreographers of the ensemble saved folklore from oblivion and promoted it through the filter of art, in that way creating stage performances appealing to the eye of contemporary observers, both domestic and foreign. For 65 years already the artists from Kolo have taken fine steps to record the history of our national dance on the creaking

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

TOS PRePORuČuje: naciOnalni anSambl „KOlO“

SAVRŠEN KRUG

Pored materijalne kulture koja se baštini po muzejima, važan spomenik minulih vremena su i narodne pesme i sitni koraci koji ih prate. Nacionalni ansambl „Kolo“ najvažnija je ustanova u zemlji koja naše igre, pesme, muziku, nošnje i običaje čuva od zaborava i oživljava na sceni. Pred domaćom i pred stranom publikom.

arodna igra jedno je od osnovnih obeležja svake zemlje. Ono što je sirtaki u Grčkoj ili flamenko u Španiji kod nas je kolo. Srpska reč kolo označava točak, krug bez početka i kraja u čijoj se neprekidnosti naslućuje večnost. Pa u skladu s tom simbolikom i nacionalni ansambl „Kolo“ okreće se već 65 godina, iz jubileja u jubilej, sve savršenije i sa sve većim žarom. A SVE JE POČELO... Godine 1948. u muzičkoj školi Stanković, uredbom Vlade nR Srbije, osnovan je ansambl narodnih igara Srbije (tek pet godina kasnije ansambl će, na predlog samih igrača, dobiti ime „Kolo“). na čelu mlade institucije našla se gospođa Olga Skovran, cenjeni koreograf i pedagog, a kako će vreme

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pokazati, i sposobni rukovodilac. u ansamblu je okupila tim vrsnih igrača koji je mogao da ostvari i najzahtevnije zadatke na sceni. Sedam meseci treninga krunisano je prvom predstavom u narodnom pozorištu u beogradu. ansambl je izveo koreografije Olge Skovran „banatska momačka igra“, „Kalač“ i „igre iz Srbije“. a onda kreću da se nižu nove koreografije, novi nastupi i novi aplauzi. naredne godine ansambl dobija podršku u glasu i muzici – hor od 30 članova i orkestar. ubrzo zatim osniva se i stručni savet, koji su činili Stana Klajn, muzički kritičar i muzikolog, dragutin Čolić, kompozitor, publicista i pedagog, maga magazinović, žena koja je donela moderan ples u Srbiju, i koreograf branko marković. Tokom samo godinu dana rada ansambl postaje kompaktan umetnički

kolektiv. Rezultat takvog rada video se već krajem godine. Stiglo je prvo priznanje. Vlada FnRj je 31. decembra 1949. dodelila ansamblu nagradu za uspehe postignute u negovanju i obradi narodnih igara, a Olgu Skovran nagradila je za umetničko rukovođenje. nagrada je bila podsticaj za još predaniji rad, tako da pored mnogobrojnih koncerata u zemlji, u martu 1950. godine odlaze u Švajcarsku na prvo inostrano gostovanje. ZAVIDNA REPUTACIJA Ređale su se godine, smenjivale generacije plesača, prilagođavali programi, povećavao broj turneja, nagrada, domaćih i inostranih priznanja. jedino se nije menjala osnovna misija ansambla

– promovisanje naše igre, pesme, muzike, nošnje i običaja. Koreografi Ansambla otimaju od zaborava izvorni folklor i propuštaju ga kroz umetnički filter, stvarajući na taj način scenski nastup dopadljiv oku savremenog posmatrača. Domaćeg i stranog. Već 65 godina umetnici iz „Kola“ finim koracima ispisuju istoriju naše nacionalne igre na pucketavim parketima domaćih, ali i najprestižnijih svetskih dvorana – Metropoliten, Palata Šajo, Karnegi Hol, Rojal Festival Hol, Opera u Kelnu, Teatar Feniče, Boljšoj Teatar, Grand Kasino u Ženevi, Opera Haus u Sidneju, Liderhala u Štutgartu, Štad Hala u Beču... Staje u to razdoblje i vrtoglava statistika: više od šest hiljada koncerata, dvanaest miliona gledalaca, 140 koreografija. Ali staje i mnogo više od pukih brojki – znoj i osmesi, iscrpljenost i ispunjenost duše, zahtevni izazovi i mnogo zabave, različiti temperamenti i ujednačeni pokreti – neophodne suprotnosti za održivu i izdrživu budućnost. A takvu budućnost garantuje i tim koji stoji iza svake savršene predstave. Članovi „Kola“ nisu samo besprekorni igrači već su i vrhunski pevači i glumci. A sa Ansamblom su uvek sarađivali i najbolji koreografi, muzičari, kompozitori, dirigenti, stručni saradnici, etnomuzikolozi, etnolozi, baletski umetnici i drugi, koji su izgradili prepoznatljiv umetnički stil

STRANCI O „KOLU“ „To je najzanosnija priredba u Njujorku ove jeseni. Komplikovane igre izvođene su majstorski i članovi trupe zaslužuju naše pohvale. Nemojte propustiti da vidite Kolo!“ The New York Times „Državni ansambl Kolo učiniće više da se probudi razumevanje između naša dva naroda nego deset diplomatskih konferencija. Celokupna predstava je prvoklasna, a igre se izvode sa takvim žarom i vitalnošću da izazivaju iskreno oduševljenje publike.“ Sunday Times „Ogromna vitalnost i lepota ne samo njihovog igranja već i mnoge promene kostima, učinile su od ovog koncerta veče dostojno sećanja. Njihov koncert je oličenje savršenstva.“ Los Angeles Herald „Kola“, izražen pre svega u raznolikosti scenskih i muzičkih obrada.

JUBILEJ Pre deset godina Ansambl „Kolo“ je povodom 55 godina uspešnog rada na negovanju, predstavljanju i širenju narodnog stvaralaštva i kulturnog blaga u zemlji i inostranstvu odlikovan Ordenom Vuka Karadžića prvog stepena. Ove godine ponovo slavi jubilej. Obeležavanje 65. umetničke sezone počelo je 9. oktobra 2012. godine u Narodnom pozorištu izvedbom scensko-muzičkog dela „Golgota i vaskrs Srbije“, koje je posvećeno obeležavanju važnih datuma iz nacionalne istorije. Nakon toga, 23. decembra usledio je veliki koncert „Čuvari tradicije“ u Centru „Sava“. Dan osnivanja ansambla 15. maja biće prigodno obeležen. Na jednom mestu okupiće se igračke i pevačke zvezde, šefovi orkestara, direktori, asistenti, svi oni ljudi zahvaljujući kojima Ansambl sija već 65 godina. Ipak kruna svega biće izrada monografije, kojom će misija i rad „Kola“ biti sačuvani od zuba vremena. Dragana Barjaktarević fotografije: arhiva ansamBla kolo

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SOUL OF FLAVOURS AND GREEN LANDSCAPES

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Continuing last year’s successful campaign, “Soulfood Serbia”, the Tourist Organisation of Serbia (TOS) in cooperation with the German Organisation for Technical Cooperation (GTZ) developed a new promotional campaign with an original theme which for the first time presents Serbia’s organic products. A promotional film and the brochure “Living Healthy – Organic food of Serbia” take us on an interesting journey that connects healthy and natural foods and the tourist offer of gorgeous landscapes and regions drawn in on the map of “Organic Serbia”.

n imagined journey through Organic Serbia starts in Vojvodina. The gifts of nature predestined this region for agriculture, and therefore it is no wonder that organic farming in Serbia started in Vojvodina. This region, and more precisely, Subotica was the birthplace for spreading the ideas of organic farming. This town in the northernmost part of Bačka was the first in the country to have products stamped with the organic official logo and the first internationally awarded bio-farm. The salaš (Serbian for family farm, ranch) of the Mamuzić family is located in the village of Ljutovo, in the vicinity of Subotica. On the light, sandy soil these dedicated people grow cereals, various vegetables and chilli peppers. The Mamuzić salaš specialty are watermill organic stone-ground grains. In the village of Orom, in the municipality of Kanjiža, yet another gem in organic produce is on offer from the north of Serbia – Jonoš Faraga’s farm where herbs and aromatic plants are grown. Along the visit to the organic producers in the surroundings of Subotica, the tourist road posts take us to the visit to the “plain’s windy lakes” – Palić and Ludaš and the ranches and riverside inns (Serbian čarda) that on their tables serve traditional meals, autochthonous “wines from the sand” and domestic fruit brandies. LAND OF DARK COMPLEXION AND RED PEPPERS Travelling across Organic Serbia leads us to Sombor, the centre of Western Bačka region. Due to its position in the landscape and being as “flat as a pancake”, Sombor is called also Ravangrad – the ‘Flat City’. However, at the eastern borders of the town, the plain withdraws and is confronted with the rolling hills of the Telečka highlands. In the old days tobacco was grown on these hillocks, and today the area is

famous above all for its production of chilli peppers. The highlands with the village of the same name, Telečka, is the place where one of best chilli peppers to be found in Europe are grown. The village has a long tradition of growing this culture – a mill for processing peppers has been in place since 1939, and it is interesting that in this village there is an unusual and valuable Museum of tobacco and blacksmith’s trade. The list of recommendations for exploring the tourist attractions of the region includes Sombor – the greenest city in Vojvodina, the Sombor ranches, gastronomic specialties and expanses of a special nature reserve the Upper Danube.

NOVI SAD’S ORGANIC GREEN MARKET AND SALADS IN DIFFERENT COLOURS As a leader in agriculture and a centre for promoting new ideas, the capital of Vojvodina is the first town in Serbia where a special greenmarket for organic produce, “My Salaš”, was opened, and also the country’s first specialised organic food shop. The village of Kisač is marked on the map of organic producers of Novi Sad, where the Vozar family lives and produces various types of organic vegetables. The Vozar family is known above all by their great selection of lettuces – they grow the usual green ones, but also specific ones, brown, red

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ORGANIC CENTRE IN SELENČA Specialised centres play a unique role in the development of Organic Serbia. One such centre is located in Selenča, in the municipality of Bač. Ethnically, Selenča is almost purely a Slovak village. “Life must be based on what you already have, and not on what you lack”, this is the motto of Zdravo Organic – a successful agro-company from Selenča, making use of the legacy of the Slovak spirit of diligence and unassuming modesty. The company has their own brand of juices made from organic beetroot, apples, carrots... and various vegetable salads.

and purple coloured, which are very nutritious. The range of their products includes radicchio, broccoli, zucchini, spinach... In Serbia today, organic agriculture mostly relies upon small farmers. It is still a rare thing to see larger agro-companies joining the “Green Revolution”. That is why an example of a large agro-system accepting green agriculture as their general model

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is a significant one. Under the motto “a thousand cows on a thousand hectares” Global Seed from Čurug completes a full circle – they grow the crops needed for feeding the cows themselves, they have built a plant for organic feed, and the final objective is to open an organic dairy, a unique one in Serbia. Aside from visiting organic producers, the tourist outreach from the main topic would be some of the major attractions of Novi Sad and its surroundings: a lively urban centre with its impressive Petrovaradin fortress on the banks of the Danube and close by is Sremski Karlovci famed for its architecture, the National Park of Fruska Gora also close by, offers an escape from city life with its many baroque Orthodox monasteries, and in the vicinity of Čurug the Nature Park – Stara Tisa and Pearl Island. LAND OF RASPBERRY AND FRUITS OF THE FOREST The second section of the organic journey through Serbia leads into the hilly and mountainous regions of Western Serbia. Forests and woods, meadows,

glades, pastures, small towns, villages and hamlets make up the picture of the western parts. Fruits and crops suitable for higher land are mostly grown in this region. Our thematic journey through the western parts starts in the picturesque and ecologically clean Azbukovica. More than two decades ago, in the crystal clear natural environment of Ljubovija, one enterprising man – Zlatko Milutinović founded a company for processing berries. He gathered fruit growers from the area and taught them modern production methods. Today, surrounded by raspberry and blackberry plantations, the cold storage facility of this company processes organic fruit of highest quality. Aside from visiting the fruit growers, the “list of tourist recommendations” includes Sokolske Mountains and the wondrous Gradac River, the canyon of Trešnjica, Tribuća, as well as the unconquerable fortress Soko Grad. ARILJE – RASPBERRY CAPITAL Among the hillocks where clean mountain rivers, the Rzav and the Moravica, run their course, the

A MILLION-PLUM-TREE ORCHARD Every autumn the Plum Fair is held in the village of Osečina, promoting the “Serbian Queen of Fruit” and the traditional products made from plums such as plum brandy or slivovitz, prunes, jams and preserves. It is worth noting that there are as many as one million plum trees in the area of Podgorina. In Europe in particular, the high quality of Serbian organic prunes is recognised and they are an essential ingredient to the best known mueslis, fruit yoghurts and jams. small town of Arilje is located, known as the hub of Serbian raspberry growing. The “Ariljska” raspberry is the national brand which is currently undergoing the official procedure for protecting the designation of origin. Most of the local population is involved in producing the “red gold”, and out of respect for the fruit that provides a livelihood for them and their families, the people have erected a Monument to the Raspberry in the centre of the town. In this town of enterprising people there is BMD company growing and processing organic raspberries and blackberries. The range of its products include frozen fruit mixes that contain also wild strawberries, redcurrants, and blueberries. With the motto “Welcome to the world of organic mushrooms and berries”, the BMD company designed a whole array of products originating from the forests of Western Serbia. In addition to organic “rewards” from the area such as Ariljska raspberries and wild mushrooms, quintessential to the tastes of this region may also be found in prosciutto from Užice, cheese from Zlatar, curative juniper brandy and a special type of flat bread lepinja often eaten with kajmak, and the dense tourist road signs point to the magical places of this region: National park Tara, the canyon of the Drina River, Nature Park Mokra Gora and the “Šargan Eight,” Zlatibor Mountain, the biosphere reserve and nature park Golija which is under the protection of UNESCO, the meanders of the wondrous Uvac River...

to make perhaps the most delicious sweet in Serbia – wild strawberry confit or slatko. Handpicked berries full of flavour that grow in large numbers on the slopes of Kopaonik are made into confit of quite unique taste. In order for it to be both delicious and nutritious, it is cooked in home-like atmosphere, in big pots, on wood-burning stoves... It is cooked slowly, for hours, just like this sweet, slatko, used to be prepared in days gone by. Wild strawberry slatko is produced by Foodland, one of the leading Serbian food producing companies and it is a part of their range of organic products. And from Kopaonik – the roof of Serbia – the tourist road signs take us to the spas with healing mountain water: Jošanička, Mataruška, Vrnjačka, Ribarska... and also to some of the most precious cultural and historical monuments of medi-

eval Serbia, such as the monastery complex of Studenica which is included on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List. FOREST HARVEST & FRAGRANT WINES In the healthy forests and uninhabited high grounds of Kopaonik, Jastrebac, Goč, Željine... the Marni company with headquarters in Kruševac has for almost three decades been harvesting the fruits of the forest. Applying modern technology, Marni has sourced penny buns, black morels, golden chanterelles and other mushrooms to create different variations of organic products: mushrooms in oil, dried mushrooms, fresh and frozen mushrooms. In the vicinity of Kruševac, on the banks of the Zapadna Morava River, there is one of the most

STRAWBERRIES, BLUEBERRIES AND A TASTE OF FOREST Central Serbia is dominated by Kopaonik – the largest and highest mountain of Serbia. From Kopaonik the ranges of smaller mountains spread like spikes from the hub. This truly mountainous area with a harsh climate is well known for its curative waters and its health-friendly coniferous, beech and oak woods. Our journey through Organic Serbia continues on the eastern slopes of Kopaonik, in a small town of Brus, where old recipes are used

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famous Serbian vineyards – Župa Aleksandrovačka. The list of recommendations for travellers visiting these regions is a collection on the history of wine kept in the Museum of Wine in Aleksandrovac, and also to be recommended is for you to try Župa wines, particularly the odorous “Tamjanika” wine. DIVERSITY OF LIFE Far from the main roads and almost uninhabited, the mountains of southeast and east Serbia preserve the entire worlds of autochthonous plants, woods, wild and farm animals. They give full meaning to the term “preserved biodiversity”. Species of plants growing in Stara Planina are so diverse that they make up more than a third of the total flora of Serbia. The wondrous mountain of Rtanj, whose shape makes am almost perfect pyramid, is mentioned in many folk tales attributed to the healing powers to herbs growing there. And Suva Planina is also a rich treasury of the flora. The Radan mountain has many pastures and forests and even boasts a remaining rainforest, a legacy from the Ice Age. Our itinerary for travelling through the landscapes of Organic Serbia also features villages at the foot of Stara Planina, near Dimitrovgrad, where rare species of farm animals are still kept.

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BUŠA HERDS & SHEEP OF BALKAN NOMADS A long time ago, the Balkan pastures were covered in herds of Buša (Bos europeus primigenius) – a relatively small breed of cattle, with short horns, black muzzle and a white ring of hairs, much like a doe. They have completely adapted to the high grazing grounds and harsh climate, are resistant to diseases and very fertile. One of the largest herds of today (as they are nearly extinct) is nowadays kept by Milutin Nikolić – cattle grower from the village of Gornji Krivodol. His herd is made up of more than two hundred heads of Buša. Each year on 7 July, celebrated as Ivanjdan, day of St John the Forerunner, when the herbs are at their most powerful according to the folklore, he takes his herd, in a symbolic move, to the succulent mountain pastures of Mučibaba to graze. In the village of Kamenica on Stara Planina Mountain, today there is a unique herd of Karakachan sheep, guarded by Jovanka StevanovićIvanov. Karakachan sheep is the breed developed during several centuries of selection carried out by the nomad Karakachan tribes who took their herds to the Western Balkans pastures in the summers, and spent their winters in Greece. Until recently it was believed that this breed was not present any more in our region. Fortunately, this is not the case.

Thanks to the devotion and enthusiasm of several nature lovers, these resistant and long-living sheep of black and brown fleece, which are known for their gentle and motherly instinct, are not extinct. FRUIT OF TOPLICA AREA The south of Serbia is well known for its mineral and thermal waters, and a large area in this part of Serbia is called Toplica, its name alluding to warm waters. The main centre of this region, called Toplički after Toplica, is the town of Kuršumlija, well known for its fruit growing consisting mostly of plums, but apples and pears can also be found. Dutch company Midi Organic gathered a large number of families from this area into an association of organic farmers. Here nature itself has been more than generous: in the vicinity of Kuršumlija only, there are as many as three spas with curative waters: Prolom, Lukovska and Kuršumlijska, and there is also Radan, a stunning mountain. Stepping out from our thematic journey, on the tourist road sign, there are wonderful clay figures of the Devil’s Town (Djavolja Varoš), a remarkable archaeological site the Empress’ City and the prehistoric site Ploče. milena mihaljčić photographs: Dragan VilDoVić & toS

DUŠA UKUSA I ZELENIH PREDELA Nastavljajući prošlogodišnju uspešnu kampanju „Soulfood Serbia“, Turistička organizacija Srbije je, u saradnji s nemačkom organizacijom za tehničku saradnju (GIZ), osmislila novu promotivnu kampanju sa originalnom temom, koja prvi put predstavlja organske proizvode Srbije. Promotivni film i brošura „Živeti zdravo – Organska hrana Srbije“ nude zanimljivo putovanje koje povezuje zdravu i prirodnu hranu i turističku ponudu raskošnih predela i regija ucrtanih na mapi „Organske Srbije“.

amišljeno putovanje kroz „Organsku Srbiju“ počinje u Vojvodini. Darovi prirode predodredili su tu regiju za poljoprivredu i zato nije nimalo neobično što je organska proizvodnja započeta upravo u Vojvodini. Tačnije, rodno mesto širenja ideja organske proizvodnje je Subotica, grad koji je prvi u zemlji imao proizvod sa oznakom organskog, prvu kontrolnu organizaciju i prvu međunarodno nagrađenu biofarmu. U selu Ljutovu nadomak Subotice nalazi se salaš porodica Mamuzić. Na lakom, peskovitom zemljištu ti posvećeni ljudi gaje žitarice, raznovrsno povrće i začinsku papriku. Specijalitet salaša Mamuzić su organska žita

koja se melju na vodeničnom kamenu. U selu Orom, u opštini Kanjiža, nalazi se još jedan biser u organskoj ponudi hrane sa severa Srbije – poljoprivredno dobro Jonoša Faraga, koje se bavi uzgajanjem čajeva i začinskog bilja. Uz posetu proizvođačima u okolini Subotice, turistički putokazi vode nas na „Vetrovita jezera ravnice“ – Palić i Ludaš i salaše i čarde koje na trpezi imaju tradicionalna jela, autohtona „vina sa peska“ i domaće voćne rakije. ZEMLJA TAMNE PUTI I CRVENE PAPRIKE Naredna destinacija na mapi organskog putovanja je Sombor, centar zapadnobačke regije. Zbog svog položaja u predelu „ravnom poput

tepsije“ Sombor se naziva i Ravangrad. Međutim, na samom obodu grada ravnica se povlači pred blagim brežuljcima Telečke visoravni. Na tim bregovima nekada se obilno uzgajao duvan, a danas je to oblast poznata po proizvodnji začinske paprike. Na Telečkoj visoravni, u istoimenom selu, uzgaja se jedna od najboljih začinskih paprika Evrope. Selo ima dugu tradiciju uzgajanja ove kulture – mlin za preradu postoji još od 1939. godine, a zanimljivost je i Muzej duvana i kovačkog zanata, neobičan i vredan. Na listi preporuka za upoznavanje turističkih zanimljivosti ovog kraja nalaze se Sombor – najzeleniji grad Vojvodine, somborski salaši, gastronomski specijaliteti i prostranstva specijalnog rezervata prirode Gornje Podunavlje.

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NOVOSADSKA ORGANSKA PIJACA I SALATE U BOJI Kao lider u poljoprivredi i centar promocije novih ideja, glavni grad Vojvodine je prvi u Srbiji u kojem je otvorena posebna pijaca organskih proizvoda „Moj salaš“ i prva specijalizovana prodavnica organskih namirnica. Na mapi organskih proizvođača Novog Sada ubeleženo je selo Kisač, u kojem živi porodica Vozar, koja proizvodi razne vrste organskog povrća. Vozarovi su poznati po uzgoju brojnih vrsta salata – od one uobičajene zelene, do specifične smeđe, crvene i ljubičaste, koje su izuzetno hranljive. Na paleti njihovih proizvoda nalaze se i radič, brokoli, tikvice, blitva, spanać... Organska proizvodnja svoje glavno uporište

ima među malim proizvođačima. Još je retkost da se veće agro kompanije priključuju „zelenoj revoluciji“. Zato je dragocen primer agro-sistema „Global Seed“ iz Čuruga, koji je organsku poljoprivredu prihvatio kao svoj osnovni model. Sa sloganom „hiljadu krava na hiljadu hektara“ ta kompanija uskoro otvara prvu organsku mlekaru u Srbiji. Uz posetu proizvođačima zdrave hrane, kao turistički iskorak iz osnovne teme ponuđene su glavne atrakcije Novog Sada i njegove okoline: živopisno urbano jezgro, Petrovaradinska tvrđava, obale Dunava, Sremski Karlovci, Nacionalni park Fruška gora i barokni pravoslavni manastiri, a u blizini Čuruga park prirode Stara Tisa i Biserno ostrvo.

ZEMLJA MALINA I ŠUMSKIH PLODOVA Druga deonica organskog putovanja kroz Srbiju vodi u brdsko-planinske predele zapadne Srbije. Tu su Podrinjske planine, Valjevske planine, Zlatibor, Tara, Zlatar, Golija... Šume, livade, proplanci, pašnjaci, male varoši, sela i zaseoci – sažeta su slika zapadnog podneblja. U toj regiji najviše se uzgajaju voće i kulture većih nadmorskih visina. U kristalnom prirodnom okruženju Ljubovije pre više od dve decenije preduzimljivi Zlatko Milutinović osnovao je preduzeće koje se bavi preradom jagodičastog voća. On je okupio ovdašnje voćare i obučio ih savremenim metodima proizvodnje. Danas, okružena malinjacima i kupinjacima, hladnjača ove zadruge prerađuje organsko voće najfinijeg kvaliteta. Uz obilazak voćara, na „listi turističkih preporuka“ nalaze se Sokolske planine i čudesna reka Gradac, kanjon Trešnjice, Tribuće, te neosvojiva tvrđava Soko grad. ARILJE – PRESTONICA MALINE U blago brdovitim predelima kroz koje protiču čiste planinske reke Rzav i Moravica nalazi se varošica Arilje, koja je poznata kao glavni centar srpskog malinarstva. „Ariljska malina“ domaći je brend koji je u postupku zaštite geografskog porekla. Većina žitelja ovog kraja bavi se proizvodnjom „crvenog zlata“, pa su ljudi zbog poštovanja ORGANIK CENTAR U SELENČI U razvoju organske Srbije posebnu ulogu imaju specijalizovani centri. Jedan takav centar nalazi se u Selenči, opština Bač. Selenča je etnički gotovo čisto slovačko selo. „Život morate utemeljiti na onom što već imate, a ne na onome što vam nedostaje“, geslo je uspešne agro-kompanije „Zdravo Organic“ iz Seleneče – koja baštini slovački duh radinosti i skromnosti. „Zdravo Organic“ ima svoju robnu marku sokova od cvekle, jabuke, šargarepe... i razne salate od povrća.

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

prema voću koje ih hrani u centru grada podigli Spomenik malini. U ovom gradu preduzimljivih ljudi posluje i kompanija BMD, koja prerađuje organske maline i kupine. Na paleti njenih proizvoda nalaze se smrznuti voćni „miksevi“ koji sadrže i divlje plodove: šumske jagode, ribizle i borovnice. Sa sloganom „Dobrodošli u svet organskih gljiva i bobičastih plodova“ BMD je osmislila i čitavu paletu proizvoda poreklom iz šuma zapadne Srbije. Uz organske darove podneblja, kao što su ariljska malina i šumske gljive, „esencije“ ukusa ovog kraja nalaze se u užičkoj pršuti, zlatarskom siru, lekovitoj rakiji kleki, lepinjama s kajmakom... A gusti turistički putokazi upućuju na čarobna mesta te

regija: Nacionalni park Taru, kanjon reke Drine, park prirode Mokru goru i „Šargansku osmicu“, planinu Zlatibor, rezervat biosfere i park prirode Goliju, koja se nalazi pod zaštitom Uneska, meandre čudesne reke Uvac… JAGODE, BOROVNICE I UKUSI ŠUMA Središnjim delom zemlje dominira Kopaonik – po prostranstvu najveća i najviša planina Srbije. Oko Kopaonika zvezdasto se prostiru venci manjih planina. Taj izrazito planinski kraj oštre klime poznat je po obilju lekovitih voda i svojim zdravim šumama. Putovanje kroz Organsku Srbiju nastavljamo istočnim padinama Kopaonika, zaustavljamo

VOĆNJAK OD MILION ŠLJIVA Malina je preuzela primat od šljive, koja je bila tradicionalni srpski izvozni proizvod i simbol za srpsko voće. U selu Osečina svake jeseni održava se Sajam šljiva, koji promoviše „srpsku kraljicu voća“ i njene tradicionalne proizvode: rakiju šljivovicu, sušene šljive, džemove, marmelade... Zanimljiv je podatak da u ataru Podgorine raste oko milion stabala šljive. U Evropi posebno je poznat visok kvalitet domaćih sušenih organskih šljiva, koje su sastojak najpoznatijih muslija, voćnih jogurta, džemova...

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

se u gradiću Brus, gde se po starim recepturama priprema možda najukusnija poslastica Srbije – slatko od šumskih jagoda. Od rukom ubranih mirisnih bobica koje obilato rastu po obroncima Kopaonika priprema se slatko jedinstvenog ukusa. Da bi bilo i ukusno i hranljivo kuva se u domaćem ambijentu, u velikim šerpama, na pećima na drva. Ukuvava se lagano, satima, baš onako kako su tu poslasticu nekada pripremale naše bake. Slatko od šumskih jagoda proizvod je „Foodlanda“ – jedne od vodećih domaćih prehrambenih kompanija i deo je palete njenih organskih proizvoda. A sa Kopaonika – krova Srbije – turistički putokazi vode nas ka banjama lekovitih planinskih voda: Jošaničkoj, Mataruškoj, Vrnjačkoj, Ribarskoj... i nekim od najdragocenijih kulturno-istorijskih spomenika srednjovekovne Srbije, poput manastirskog kompleksa Studenica, koji se nalazi na Uneskovoj listi kulturne baštine. ŠUMSKA ŽETVA I MIRISNA VINA U zdravim šumama i nenaseljenim visovima Kopaonika, Jastrepca, Goča, Željina... kompanija „Marni“, sa sedištem u Kruševcu, gotovo tri

decenije pažljivo žanje plodove šume. Od vrganja, smrčaka, lisičarki i drugih gljiva, primenjujući savremenu tehnologiju, pravi razne varijacije organskih proizvoda: gljive u ulju, sušene gljive, sveže, zamrznute. U blizini Kruševca, na obalama Zapadne Morave nalazi se i jedno od najpoznatijih srpskih vinogorja – Župa aleksandrovačka. Na listi preporuka za putnike koji obilaze ove krajeve nalazi se zbirka o istoriji vinarstva koja se čuva u Muzeju vina u Aleksandrovcu, a preporučuje se i degustacija župskih vina, posebno mirisne „tamjanike“. RAZNOLIKOST ŽIVOG SVETA Skrajnute s glavnih puteva i gotovo nenaseljene, planine jugoistočne i južne Srbije sačuvale su čitave svetove autohtonog bilja, šuma, divljih i domaćih životinja. One daju potpun smisao pojmu očuvanog biodiverziteta. Biljne vrste koje rastu na Staroj planini toliko su raznolike da čine više od trećine ukupne flore Srbije. Čudesnu planinu Rtanj, koja ima oblik gotovo pravilne piramide, prate narodna predanja o isceliteljskim moćima njenog bilja. Suva

planina takođe je bogata riznica biljnog sveta. Radan planina obiluje pašnjacima i šumama i baštini jednu iz ledenog doba preostalu prašumu. Na poslednjoj deonici putovanja kroz predele organske Srbije ucrtana su sela podno Stare planine, u okolini Dimitrovgrada, u kojima su sačuvane retke vrste domaćih životinja. STADA BUŠA I OVCE BALKANSKIH NOMADA Nekada se pašnjacima Balkana kretalo mnoštvo stada buša – relativno sitne rase goveda, kratkih rogova, crne gubice sa belim prstenom, dlake nalik na srnu. Buše su potpuno prilagođene podneblju visokih pašnjaka oštre klime, otporne su na bolesti i veoma su plodne. Jedno od najvećih stada gotovo izumrle buše danas odgaja Milutin Nikolić, stočar iz sela Gornji Krivodol. Njegovo stado broji oko dve stotine grla, a na Ivanjdan, dan kada po narodnom verovanju bilje ima najjaču moć, Milutin simbolično izgoni svoje stado na sočne planinske pašnjake Mučibabe. U selu Kamenica na Staroj planini danas postoji i jedinstveno veliko stado karakačanskih ovaca, o kojem se stara Jovanka Stevanović Ivanov. Ta rasa nastala je tokom viševekovne selekcije nomadskih plemena Karakačana, koja su sa svojim stadima leti pohodila pašnjake zapadnog Balkana, a zime su provodila u Grčkoj. Donedavno se smatralo da je ova rasa potpuno nestala s naših prostora. Na sreću, zahvaljujući požrtvovanosti i ljubavi nekolicine zaljubljenika u prirodu, te otporne i izdržljive ovce crnomrkog runa, koje su poznate i po svom nežnom majčinskom instinktu, nisu izumrle. VOĆE TOPLIČKOG KRAJA Jug Srbije poznat je po mineralnim i termalnim vodama, pa se jedna prostrana regija u tom delu Srbije naziva Toplica. Glavni centar Topličke regije je Kuršumlija, grad koji je poznat po voćarstvu: najviše se gaje šljive, a potom jabuke i kruške. Holandska kompanija „Midi Organic“ okupila je veliki broj porodica iz tog kraja u zadrugu organske proizvodnje. Sama priroda ovde je bila više nego izdašna: samo u okolini Kuršumlije postoje tri banje s lekovitim vodama: Prolom, Lukovska i Kuršumlijska banja, a tu je i raskošna Radan planina. U iskoraku iz tematskog putovanja, na turističkom putokazu, nalaze se čudesne zemljane figure Đavolje varoši, izvanredan arheološki lokalitet Caričin grad i praistorijski lokalitet Ploče. milena mihaljčić fotografije: Dragan VilDoVić i arhiVa toS

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

sajam Turizma u Beogradu

PUTOVANJA U SRCU

Belgrade Tourism Fair

TRAVELLING IN THE HEART

ith a message “Travelling in the Heart”, the Belgrade Fairgrounds will from the 21st to 24th of February organise the Tourism Fair, presenting the largest tourism organisations, travel agencies, tour operators, hotels, mountain resorts, spas, lakes, cities, regions and countries from all continents, as well as other attractive serbian and international travel destinations. The fair will offer its visitors the arrangements for the coming tourist season, holidays and pleasure. The visitors will also be able to obtain a great deal first minute offers for this summer. This year’s Tourism Fair is promoting especially important event for the history of civilisation – the marking of 1700 years of the edict of milan. Besides the 35th international Tourism Fair, the 9th international Fair of Hotel Catering equipment, HoreCa, the 4th international Wine Fair Beo WiNe and the 8th souvenir Fair “Visit serbia” are taking place at the same time. This year, six halls of the Belgrade Fair will feature a record number of exhibitors, more than a thousand from 45 countries worldwide. Partner country of the 35th international Tourism Fair is germany. This country presented its rich tourist offer for the first time at the Belgrade Tourism Fair last year and recognised the market potential of our region, and accepted the role of the partner country of this event this year. germany is among the top destinations in cultural tourism in europe and its citizens are in search of cultural and historical sites in the world. germany will present its wide range of cultural tourism in Belgrade. Partner region of the Tourism Fair is Budva. This adriatic metropolis of tourism with its riviera is the most visited destination and the centre of montenegrin tourism.

orukom „Putovanja u srcu“, na Beogradskom sajmu od 21. do 24. februara organizuje se sajam turizma koji predstavlja najveće turističke organizacije, agencije, turoperatore, hotele, planinske centre, banje, jezera, gradove, regije i zemlje sa svih kontinenata, kao i druge atraktivne srpske i inostrane turističke destinacije. oni će posetiocima ponuditi aranžmane za predstojeću turističku sezonu, odmor i zadovoljstvo. Posetioci će, takođe, imati priliku da dobiju povoljne First minute ponude za ovo leto. ovogodišnji sajam turizma posebno promoviše važan civilizacijski događaj - 1700 godina od donošenja milanskog edikta Pored 35. međunarodnog sajma turizma, u istom terminu, organaizuju se i 9. međunarodni sajam hotelsko ugostiteljske oprema, HoreCa, 4. međunarodni sajam vina Beo WiNe i 8. sajam suvenira “Posetite srbiju”. ove godine u šest hala Beogradskog sajma predstaviće se rekordan broj izlagača, preko hiljadu iz 45 zemalja sveta. zemlja partner 35. međunarodnog sajma turizma je Nemačka. ova zemlja je prošle godine prvi put na beogradskom sajmu turizma predstavila svoju bogatu turističku ponudu i prepoznala potencijal tržišta našeg regiona, prihvatajući ulogu partnera ove manifestacije. Nemačka je među vodećim destinacijama u oblasti kulturnog turizma u evropi, a njeni građani u traganju za kulturnim i istorijskim mestima u svetu. Nemačka će u Beogradu predstaviti svoju bogatu ponudu u oblasti kulturnog turizma. regija partner sajma turizma je Budva. ova jadranska metropola turizma sa svojom rivijerom je najposećenija destinacija i centar crnogorskog turizma.

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

TOURIST ORGANISATION OF BELGRADE

TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA BEOGRADA

“WEB TOP 50” AWARD

NAGRADA WEB TOP 50

NEW PROJECT

NOVI PROJEKAT

BELGRADE CITY PASS

he Tourist Organisation of Belgrade for its web site www.tob.rs received the “Web Top 50” award in the category “Sports and (adven-) tourism”, awarded by PC Press Magazine. At the award handing over ceremony, the TOB’s Director, Dejan Veselinov, said: “It is a fact that a web site presentation is the most widely used and the fastest way of obtaining information about a tourist destination. That’s why it is important for us that all who visit the web site have quality information, which should incite them to decide to visit Belgrade. Over the last few years, TOB has worked a lot on introducing new technologies – the City Guide Android application, 3D map of Belgrade, Travel Portal... and the using of social networks in promoting the city, whose links are available on the web site.” The web site provides a wide range of information about tourist offer, and is translated into eight languages. Visitors of the web site can also book their accommodation through the booking system on the web site.

omparable to the tourist metropolises of Europe, and wishing to better accommodate international tourists, the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade has carried out its long-prepared project, Belgrade City Pass 2013. By buying the “tourist pass”, the guests of Belgrade receive numerous benefits: discounts on tickets for city museums, sightseeing tours, theatre plays, galleries and discounts in cafés, restaurants and clubs. Those tourists who buy the card get a guide “Belgrade pass” that contains a list of all the service providers, and the amount of discount they can get. “Comparative European research shows that the demand for ‘city tourist passports’ is constantly increasing. With this project, Belgrade will for the first time offer its guests a commercial card,” Ljiljana Alajbegović, Head of TOB’s Marketing and Development Department, says for BelGuest. The main partner in this great project of Piraeus Bank.

WINTER | ZIMA 2013 BelGuest

uristička organizacija Beograda je, za svoj website www.tob.rs, u kategoriji “Sport i (avan)turizam” dobila nagradu “Web Top 50” koju dodeljuje Magazin PC Press. Na uručenju priznanja direktor TOB, Dejan Veselinov je rekao: „Činjenica je da web prezentacija predstavlja najčešće korišćeni i najbrži način prikupljanja informacija o jednoj turističkoj destinaciji. Zato nam je važno da svi koji posete sajt dobiju kvalitetne informacije i na taj način odluče da posete Beograd. TOB je u poslednjih nekoliko godina radio na implementaciji novih tehnologija - City Guide android aplikacija, 3D mapa Beograda, Turistički portal... kao i korišćenju društvenih mreža u promociji grada čiji se linkovi nalaze na sajtu.” Website www.tob.rs pruža širok spektar informacije o turističkoj ponudi grada i preveden je na osam stranih jezika. Posetioci sajta, preko rezervacionog sistema, mogu i da rezervišu smeštaj u Beogradu .

o ugledu na turističke metropole Evrope i sa željom da što bolje ugosti strane turiste, Turistička organizacija Beograda realizovala je dugo pripreman projekat Belgrade City Pass 2013. Kupovinom “turističkog pasoša” gosti Beograda dobijaju brojne beneficije: popuste na ulaznice za gradske muzeje, ture razgledanja grada, pozorišne predstave, galerije i popuste u kafeima, restoranima i klubovima. Uz kupljenu karticu, turisti dobijaju vodič “Beogradski pasoš” u kojoj se nalazi lista svih davaoci usluga, kao i visina popusta koje mogu dobiti. “Komparativna evropska istraživanje pokazuju da je tražnja za ‘gradskim turističkim pasošima’ u stalnom porastu. Beograd će ovim projektom po prvi put svojim gostima ponuditi komercijalnu karticu “, kaže za BelGuest Ljiljana Alajbegović, rukovodilac sektora za marketing i razvoj TOB-a . Glavni partner u ovom velikom projektu je Piraeus banka.

delTa geNerali

VAŠE ZDRAVLJE ZASLUŽUJE NAJBOLJE

K delTa geNerali

YOUR HEALTH DESERVES THE BEST

hen it comes to health insurance and what it should represent, the first associations are protection and assistance at the moment when you need it most. However, it often happens that you have to wait even for the basic diagnostic procedures for several months, even in our most eminent medical institutions. Therefore, it is important to know that by choosing delta generali Voluntary Health insurance you will at any time receive prompt and efficient assistance. You won’t wait for medical PARTNER IN examinations as they are schedPRESERVING YOUR HEALTH uled systematically and in an A list that the insurance covers: outpatient organised way. You’ll get first treatment, hospitalisation, surgery, pre- class service in all aspects of prescription drugs, general medical examina- vention and health care, support tion, health care of pregnant women and when scheduling appointments, new-borns – including labour, ophthalhelp in choosing expirienced mology, dentistry, various types of theradoctors and health care facilities, pies (injections, inhalation, occupational special treatment on arrival to an therapy, physical therapy, speech and lanexamination and the opportuniguage/logoped, drug therapy, etc. ), laboty of having the examination and ratory and other diagnostic procedures, treatment at no additional cost, examinations and sanitary check-ups. in about three hundred medical institutions throughout serbia. These are just some of the benefits offered by delta generali Voluntary Health insurance. To preserve health, you should choose a partner – the best partner, that is. delta generali has been for more than ten years a leader in the field of voluntary health insurance on the market in serbia. available in over sixty locations throughout the country, it offers all kinds of personal and family insurance. We believe that out of a wide range of Voluntary Health insurance that delta generali offers, you will choose INSURANCE POLICIES the one that suits you best, since The monthly amount of the policy for investment in health insurance Delta Generali collective health insurance is actually an investment in a costs from 18 euros per employee, while healthier and happier life. individual health insurance starts already do not wait when it comes to from 25 euros per insured policy holder. health. do something healthy for Have you ever calculated how much yourself and let those who have money you have spent on treatment in the most experience help you in private and public institutions so far? that.

ada se govori o zdravstvenom osiguranju i šta ono treba da predstavlja, prve asocijacije su sigurnost i pomoć u trenutku kada je ona najpotrebnija. međutim, često se i na osnovne dijagnostičke procedure čeka po nekoliko meseci, čak i u našim najeminentnijim zdravstvenim ustanovama. stoga je važno znati da odabirom delta generali dobrovoljnog zdravstvenog osiguranja u svakom trenutku dobijate brzu i efikasnu pomoć. Na lekarske preglede se ne PARTNER U OČUVANJU ZDRAVLJA čeka jer se zakazuju sistematski Lista pokrića: vanbolničko lečenje, bolničko i organizovano. Vrhunska usluga lečenje, hirurške intervencije, lekovi na u svim segmentima prevenrecept, sistematski pregledi, zdravstcije i zaštite zdravlja, podrška vena zaštita trudnice i novorođenčeta (uključujući i porođaj), oftalmologija, pri zakazivanju pregleda, pomoć stomatologija, terapije (injekciona, u izboru zdravstvene ustanove inhalaciona, radna, fizikalna, logopedska, i iskusnih lekara, poseban tretterapija lekovima i dr), laboratorija i druge man prilikom dolaska na pregled dijagnostičke procedure, specijalistički i mogućnost pregleda i lečenja, bez dodatnih troškova, u oko tri pregledi i sanitarni pregledi. stotine medicinskih ustanova širom srbije samo su neke od prednosti delta generali dobrovoljnog zdravstvenog osiguranja. Na putu očuvanja zdravlja treba da izaberete partnera – i to najboljeg. delta generali je više od deset godina lider u oblasti dobrovoljnih zdravstvenih osiguranja na tržištu srbije. dostupan na preko šezdeset lokacija širom zemlje, nudi sve vrste ličnog i porodičnog osiguranja. Verujemo da ćete iz široke ponude dobrovoljnih zdravstvenih osiguranja delta generalija izabrati onu koja vam najviše odgovara, jer je ulaganje u zdravstveno osiguPOLISE OSIGURANJA Mesečni iznos polise za Delta Generali ranje zapravo ulaganje u zdraviji kolektivno zdravstveno osiguranje iznosi i srećniji život. već od 18 evra po zaposlenom, a za indi- Nemojte čekati kada je u pitanvidualna zdravstvena osiguranja već od ju zdravlje. učinite nešto zdravo 25 evra po osiguraniku. Da li ste izračunali za sebe i dozvolite da vam u koliko ste novca dosad izdvojili za lečenje u tome pomognu oni koji imaju privatnim i državnim ustanovama? najviše iskustva.

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

GREATEST SUCCESS IN THE BALKANS

For the first time in its fifteen-year history, and for the first time in the Balkans, pupils of the British international School have won golden medals at the prestigious competition within the international “Duke of Edinburgh Award” programme for young people. An award granting ceremony was held at Belgrade’s White Court in the presence of the host, His Royal Highness Crown-Prince Aleksandar, and Princess Katherine, as well as His Excellency Michael Davenport, Ambassador of the United Kingdom to Serbia.

he Duke of Edinburgh Award, which is only administered in the Balkans by the British International School, is a unique international competition programme. Its primary objective is to strengthen the character and develop the all-round personality of young people. The students – aged 14 to 25 – are encouraged to see and “realise there’s more to life than sitting on a sofa watching life pass you by”. The competition programme is extremely complex, involving different areas: voluntary work of the young for the benefit and well-being of the community, physical fitness, work practice, development of various sporting skills, survival in nature, learning about distant and unfamiliar people and places... The award competition includes three levels: bronze, silver and gold. Gold medallists these year included four students from the British International School:

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

Luka Vujović, Katarina Drulović, Ivana Radojević and Ilija Vlajić, while BIS silver medallists included Aleksandar Nikolić, Predrag Mirić, Uroš Sarić, Ana Milojković, Isidora Popović and Tamara Rutović. The host of the ceremony, HRH Crown-Prince Aleksandar, congratulated the winners, saying that “it is of utmost importance that all young people have the opportunity to develop their talent and skills and achieve their best in order to have a fulfilling life.” The crown-prince said that he too was one of the winners of the award, which he won during his schooling in Scotland. On behalf of the founder and sponsor of the “Duke of Edinburgh Award,” His Royal Highness Prince Philip of Edinburgh, Ambassador Davenport addressed the successful students and congratulated them on their success. The smiling and well-humoured students, parents and numerous other guests were addressed by the British International School’s principal

Aleksandra Keserović, M.A., who noted: “In the 15 years that have passed since the founding of the school our students have won prizes in various competitions, but this award means something special to all of us. It’s hard to find words with which I could express my joy and excitement because of the fact that the British International School’s students have achieved outstanding results in such a challenging and important competition. This is one of the greatest achievements in the history of the school.” In addition to strengthening character and all-round development of personality, the Duke of Edinburgh Award is highly respected in the world and brings significant points in admission to universities around the world. Over 275,000 young people compete for this award worldwide each year. BelGuest

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

NAJVEĆI USPEH NA BALKANU

Prvi put u svojoj petnaestogodišnjoj istoriji, i prvi put na Balkanu, učenici Britanske internacionalne škole osvojili su zlatne medalje na prestižnom takmičenju u okviru internacionalnog programa za mlade „Nagrada Vojvode od Edinburga”. Svečana dodela odličja upriličena je u Belom dvoru, uz prisustvo domaćina NJKV prestolonaslednika Aleksandra i princeze Katarine, te Njegove ekselencije Majkla Devenporta, ambasadora Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva u Srbiji.

agrada vojvode od Edinburga, čiji je jedini operater za Balkan Britanska internacionalna škola, jedinstven je međunarodni takmičarski program. Prvenstveni cilj programa je jačanje karaktera i svestrani razvoj ličnosti mladih ljudi. Učenici uzrasta od 14 do 25 godina podstiču se da uvide kako je „život mnogo više od udobnog sedenja i pasivnog posmatranja njegovih tokova”. Program takmičenja je izuzetno složen i obuhvata različite oblasti: volonterski rad mladih za dobrobit zajednice, fizičku spremnost, radnu praksu, razvoj različitih sportskih veština, preživljavanje u prirodi, upoznavanje s potpuno nepoznatim ljudima i sredinama... U okviru takmičenja postoje tri nivoa: bronzani, srebrni i zlatni. Zlatnu medalju osvojilo je četvoro učenika BIS: Luka Vujović, Katarina Drulović, Ivana Radojević i Ilija Vlajić, srebrnu medalju dobile su Ana

Milojković i Tamara Cmiljić, a bronzana odličja poneli su Aleksandar Nikolić, Predrag Mirić, Uroš Sarić, Ana Milojković, Isidora Popović i Tamara Rutović. Domaćin svečanosti NJKV prestolonaslednik Aleksandar čestitao je dobitnicima rekavši „da je od najveće važnosti da svi mladi ljudi dobiju priliku za razvitak svog talenta i veštine i da dosegnu svoj maksimum kako bi imali ispunjen život“. Prestolonaslednik se pohvalio da je i on jedan od dobitnika ove nagrade, koju je osvojio tokom svog školovanja u Škotskoj. U ime osnivača i pokrovitelja „Nagrade Vojvoda od Edinburga“ NJKV princa Filipa od Edinburga nagrađenim učenicima se obratio i čestitao im uspeh Njegova ekselencija Majkl Devenport, ambasador Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva. Nasmejanim i dobro raspoloženim učenicima, roditeljima i drugim brojnim zvanicama obratila se i direktorka BIS Aleksandra Keserović,

rekavši: „U proteklih 15 godina rada, koliko je prošlo od osnivanja škole, naši učenici su osvajali nagrade u različitim takmičenjima, ali ova nagrada je za sve nas nešto izuzetno. Teško je pronaći reči kojima bih mogla da izrazim svoju radost i uzbuđenje zbog činjenice da su učenici Britanske internacionalne škole postigli izuzetan rezultat na ovako zahtevnom i važnom takmičenju. Ovo je jedan od najvećih uspeha u istoriji škole.” Pored jačanja karaktera i svestranog razvoja ličnosti, program „Nagrada vojvode od Edinburga” visoko je cenjena u svetu i donosi značajne poene prilikom upisa na univerzitete širom sveta. Za ovu nagradu se svaka godine takmiči više od 275.000 mladih širom sveta. BelGuest

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P R I M A

I n t e R n A t I o n A l

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EDUCATION FOR CITIZENS OF THE WORLD

PRIMA International School offers its students top British and international education. By applying modern methods of active learning PRIMA helps its students develop the need for lifelong education, critical thinking and problem solving skills – this is the idea on which lies the mission of this prominent Belgrade educational institution that operates under licence of the University of Cambridge.

ur main driving force is our desire to provide our students a supportive environment for learning and to help them develop into strong and independent personalities. In our school, we treat our students and also our staff with full respect. every child who enters our school has the opportunity to grow, mature, discover and move the boundaries of their own skills, - Brigitte MacIntosh, the principal, says in an interview with Belguest.

LEARNING AS AN INTERESTING JOURNEY PRIMA International School has three levels of education: Preschool, elementary and Secondary. our teaching staff see education as a special journey – it begins at the pre-school age when, primarily through play, children are seamlessly introduced into the world of knowledge

Winter | Zima 2013 BelGuest

and development of skills. the educational journey continues in the elementary school which especially applies the cambridge curriculum which puts emphasis on the teaching of english language, Mathematics and Science. “I have never seen my son Milan (PRIMA International school sixth grade student ) so warmed up for studying. he comes from school and he is full of various information,” the mother of a school student wrote in the school book. of course, hard work and learning come first – Secondary students are preparing for International general certificate of Secondary education (IgcSe) exams, these exams opens doors to other international educational institutions such as Universities and colleges. PRIMA International School has a special curriculum and a professional guidance counsellor who

prepares students for admission to university. When students get good grades on/or at the AS and A level exams, their educational journey may take them to Yale, harvard, Boston... EXPLORING THE WORLDS “our wireless campus gives students unlimited internet access. We teach them how to access and explore the world of information. there is also our library that is designed to trigger and nurture a love of books. PRIMA International School has specialized classrooms for visual arts, music and Science that are also areas for exciting research, artistic expression and scientific knowledge of our students, Brigitte MacIntosh says at the end of our interview. BelGuest

P R I M A

I n t e R n A t I o n A l

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OBRAZOVANJE ZA GRAĐANE SVETA

PRIMA škola pruža svojim đacima vrhunsko britansko i međunarodno obrazovanje. Primenjujući savremene metode aktivnog učenja PRIMA kod svojih đake razvija potrebu za celoživotnim obrazovanjem, kritičkim razmišljanjem i veštinama rešavanja problema – to je ideja vodilja na kojoj je utemeljena misija ove ugledne beogradske obrazovne institucije koja radi po licenci Univerziteta Kembridž.

aš osnovni pokretački motiv jeste želja da đacima pružimo podsticajno okruženje za učenje i da ih razvijamo kao jake i nezavisne ličnosti koje misle svojom glavom. U kolektivu se - i prema đacima i jedni prema drugima - ophodimo uz puno uvažavanje ličnosti. Svako dete koje uđe kroz kapiju naše škole dobija mogućnost da se razvija, sazreva, otkriva i pomera granice sopstvenih mogućnosti - kaže u razgovoru za Belguest Briggite Machintosh, direktorka škole. UČENJE KAO ZANIMLJIVO PUTOVANJE PRIMA škola ima tri nivoa obrazovanja: predškolski odsek, osnovnu i srednju školu. nastavni kadar obrazovanje shvata kao svojevrsno putovanje – ono počinje u predškolskom uzrastu kada se, pre svega kroz igru, deca neprimetno uvode u svet

znanja i razvoja sposobnosti. obrazovno putovanje se nastavlja u osnovnoj školi u kojoj se primenjuje posebni Kembridž kurikulum koji glavno težište stavlja na učenje engleskog jezika, matematiku i prirodne nauke. “Mog sina Milana, koji se upisao u PRIMA školu u šestom razredu, nikada pre nisam videla tako zagrejanog za učenje. dolazi iz škole iz sav vrca od raznih informacija”, zapisala je u školskoj knjizi majka jednog učenika. naravno, učenje i trud su na prvom mestu – đaci srednjih razreda se spremaju za ispite kojim stiču Međunarodnu Kembridž opštu (general) diplomu (IgcSe – International general certificate of Secondary education) koje je u svetu jedno od najrasprostanjenijih svedočanstava i koje širom otvara vrata drugih međunarodnih obrazovnih ustanova. PRIMA škola ima i posebne nastavne programe i savetnike za profesionalnu orijent-

aciju koji u poslednje dve godine školovanja đake pripremaju za upis na fakulete. Kada učenici dobiju dobre ocene na AS i A nivou, njihovo obrazovno putovanje može da ih odvede na Jejl, harvard, Boston... ISTRAŽIVANJE SVETOVA “naš bežični kampus pruža đacima neograničen pristup internetu. Mi ih učimo kako da pristupaju i istražuju svet informacija. tu je i naša biblioteka koja je osmišljena tako da potstakne ljubav prema knjigama. PRIMA ima likovni, muzički i naučni kabinet koji su, takođe, prostori za uzbudljiva istraživanja, umetnička iskazivanja i naučne spoznaje naših đaka” kaže za kraj razgovora Briggite Machintosh. BelGuest

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2013

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGR ADE

WELCOME TO THE LOWER SCHOOL Located on the grounds of an old Serbian Villa in the charming Belgrade suburb of Senjak, our campus combines historic buildings with modern learning spaces and 21st century technology.

SB is a fully authorized International Baccalaureate World School. We offer the Primary Years Programme (PYP) in English for students in Pre-Kindergarten (ages 3 and 4) through grade five (age 10). Our newly designed Pre-Kindergarten program is designed to serve children of both ages 3 and 4, and includes developmentally appropriate learning and play-based engagements. Developed with the needs of the international student in mind, the PYP curricular framework focuses on the education of the whole child by

fostering the social and emotional growth of our students while offering a relevant, engaging and challenging curriculum. At the core of the PYP is a commitment to purposeful, structured inquiry as the basis for learning. Our program of inquiry enables students to use their own experiences to connect and make meaning of new information they encounter. This co-construction of knowledge and learning approach fosters a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural curiosity by developing academic skills while enabling students to acquire a better understanding of the world and their place in it. Our students are nurtured in reaching their individual potential in a safe, supportive environment. They are enriched with classes in music, physical education, visual arts, world languages (French, Spanish, Serbian or English as an Additional Language), and movement-in-dance in grades Pre-Kindergarten through grade one. ISB also offers guidance lessons for students provided by our full-time counselor. Students with mild learning exceptionalities are supported through our student support services department. HAPPY AND ACTIVE Our world-class facilities include multiple outdoor spaces for instruction and free play as well as a fully heated/air conditioned indoor space for physical education classes and other indoor activities year round. Our Lower School library hosts more than 6,000 titles and is equipped with both desktop computers and iPads for student use.

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Our librarian conducts classes for each grade level and is involved with planning alongside classroom teachers for fully integrated lessons. Grades one through five enjoy a 2:1 laptop program and have access to these devices each and every day through laptop carts located in our classrooms. The Lower School campus is a happy, active and community-oriented environment. Our student body, comprised of over 200 children who speak more than 30 different first languages and represent 42 nationalities, come from all ends of the globe. Our student government, Students In Action (SIA), provides leadership for our student body by organizing service and spirit activities on our campus. Each year, our students look forward to our many Lower School traditions and celebrations, such as our fall Halloween Festival, Winter Performance, Book Fair, Spring Fair, Variety Show, and Sports Day, along with monthly assemblies where all students enjoy the opportunity to perform. More than 120 children participate in the wide variety of after-school activities that we offer. Our first-rate Parent-Teacher-Student Association (PTSA) sponsors a number of events and activities that build community and support school programs. On behalf of the staff and students of the Lower School, I am pleased to offer our heartfelt welcome to ISB. BRIAN H. LETTINGA Lower School Principal blettinga@isb.rs

KULTURA CULTURE POZORIŠTA – THEATERS ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 www.atelje212.co.rs BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.rs BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608 www.bitef.rs DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.rs DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel. 74498 07 JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.rs

KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 www.kpgtyu.org OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.rs NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333 www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447, www.jdp.co.rs TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664 www.zvezdara VEČERNJA SCENA RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs

DEČJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs

POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715 www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 POZORISTE “PAN TEATAR”, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 298, www.panteatar.rs

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIČKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694, www.americancorners-sam.net

AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM/ ÖSTERREICHISCHEN KULTURFORUMS, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf

BRITANSKI SAVET/ BRITISH COUNCIL, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800, www.britishcouncil.org/serbia

CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270, www.czkd.rs DEČIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314, www.dkcb.rs/ DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442, www.dksg.rs DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453, www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 324-12-58, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs FRANCUSKI INSTITUT U SRBIJI/ INSTITUT FRANÇAIS DE SERBIE , Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-654, www.institutfrancais.rs INSTITUT GETE /GOETHE INSTITUT , Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 303-18-10, www.goethe.de/belgrad

GRAD - EVROPSKI CENTAR ZA KULTURU I DEBATU, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. 3282- 370, www.gradbeograd.eu

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GUARNERIUS – CENTAR LEPIH UMETNOSTI, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807, www.guarnerius.rs

HELENSKI FOND ZA KULTURU/HELLENIC FOUNDATION FOR CULTURE, Kneza Miloša 14, tel.3625-206, www.hfc-belgrade.com

INSTITUT SERVANTES/ INSTITUTO CERVANTES DE BELGRADO, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, www.belgrado.cervantes.es INSTITUT KONFUČIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.fil.bg.ac.rs

ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ ISTITUTO ITALIANO DI CULTURA DI BELGRADO, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.rs KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Neznanog junaka 32, tel. 3672 564 , www.iran.rs RUSKI DOM/ РУсский доМ, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178, www.ruskidom.rs REX, Jevrejska 16, tel. 3284-534, www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014, www.skc.org.rs ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550, www.kolarac.rs

KONCERTNE DVORANE - CONCERT HALLS ATRIJUM NARODNOG MUZEJA, Trg republike 1a, tel. 330-6000, BEOGRADSKA FILHARMONIJA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328-2977, www.bgf.co.rs DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 324-0242, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs DVORANA DOMA SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849, www.domsindikata.com KOMBANK ARENA, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, tel. 0900 110011, www.kombankarena.rs SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6000 , www.savacentar.net ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 262-6591, www.kolarac.co.rs

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ / ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888, www.etnografskimuzej.rs

KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE / THE RESIDENCE OF PRINCESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264, www.mgb.org.rs

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA / THE RESIDENCE OF PRINCE MILOS, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422, www.imus.org.rs

KUĆA ĐURE JAKŠIĆA / DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUĆA / MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 KULA NEBOJŠA / NEBOJSA TOWER, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 11, tel. 26 20 685 , www.kulanebojsa.rs

MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE / SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ / NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, www.narodnimuzej.rs

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ / MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538, www.pedagoskimuzej.org.rs

VINČA ARHEOLOŠKO NALAZIŠTE / ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE VINČA, Belo brdo 17, Vinča, tel. 060/500-51-87, www.mgb.org.rs VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ / VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE / SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Đure Jakšića 9, tel. 328-7241, www.imus.org.rs

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ / JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634, www.jimbeograd.org

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE /YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Botićeva 6, tel. 3671-485, www.mij.rs

MUZEJ BANJIČKOG LOGORA / THE MUSEUM OF THE BANJICA CONCENTRATION CAMP, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877, www.mgb.org.rs VOJNI MUZEJ / MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 3343-441, www.muzej.mod.gov.rs IZLOŽBENA POSTAVKA NARODNE BANKE SRBIJE / NATIONAL BANK OF SERBIA NUMISMATIC EXIBITION, Kralja Petra 12, tel.3027-100, www.nbs.rs MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIĆA / THE MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF JOVAN CVIJIĆ, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126, www.mgb.org.rs MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE / NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886, www.tesla-museum.org

SPOMEN MUZEJ IVE ANDRIĆA / THE MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF IVO ANDRIĆ, Andrićev venac 8, tel. 323-8397, www.mgb.org.rs MUZEJ PAJE JOVANOVIĆA / THE MUSEUM OF PAJA JOVANOVIĆ, Kralja Milana 21/IV, tel. 3340-176, www.mgb.org.rs ZBIRKA IKONA SEKULIĆ / THE COLLECTION OF ICONS SEKULIĆ, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel 3282-504, www.mgb.org.rs ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA / THE BELGRADE CITY MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel. 2630-825, www.mgb.org.rs TEHNIČKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA /THE AUTOMOBILE MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 30, tel. 3034-625, www.automuseumbgd.com

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MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA /MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV

MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE / MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149, www.sld.org.rs/sr/muzej

UMETNIČKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIČKE UMETNOSTI / MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654, museumofafricanart.org

MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI /THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2628-920, www.mpus.org.rs

MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - LEGAT ČOLAKOVIČ / MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART- COLAKOVIC LEGACY, Drajzerov prolaz 2, tel. 3676-093, www.msub.org.rs

MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI / MUSEUM OF APPLIED ART, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494, www.mpu.org.rs

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - YUGOSLAV FILM ARCHIVE, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.rs

MUZEJ ZEPTER – ZEPTER MUSEUM, Knez Mihailova 42, tel. 011/328-3339, www.zeptermuseum.rs

IZLOŽBENE GALERIJE - EXHIBITION GALLERIES GALERIJA SRPSKE AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMETNOSTI - GALLERY OF SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES,Knez Mihailova 35, www.sanu.ac.rs GALERIJA BEOGRAD, Kosančićev venac 19 , www.galerijabeograd.org GALERIJA DOMA OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, www.domomladine.org GALERIJA FAKULTETA LIKOVNIH UMETNOSTI, Pariska 16, www.flu.bg.ac.rs GALERIJA FRESAKA / FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Uroša 20, www.narodnimuzej.rs GALERIJA GRAFIČKOG KOLEKTIVA, Obilićev venac 27, www. grafickikolektiv.org GALERIJA HAOS, Dositejeva 3, www.galleryhaos.com GALERIJA KULTURNOG CENTRA BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6, www.kcb.org.rs/ GALERIJA-LEGAT PETRA DOBROVIĆA, Kralja Petra 36/IV, www.msub.org.rs GALERIJA NAUKE I TEHNIKE SANU / SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Đure Jakšića 2, www.sanu.ac.rs GALERIJA NEW MOMENT, Hilandarska 14, www.newmoment.com/beograd GALERIJA PROGRES, Knez Mihailova 22, www.progres.rs GALERIJA STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 8 GALERIJA SKC, Kralja Milana 48, www.skc.org.rs GALERIJA SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, www.galerijasuluj.org.rs GALERIJA 73, Požeška 83 a, www.galerija73.com GALERIJA ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, www.ulus.org.rs GALERIJA DOMA VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs GALERIJA ZADUŽBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, www.kolarac.co.rs

Residence of Princess Ljubica, Exibition: Interpolations 2, Zora Petrović

JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNIČKIH DELA, Andrićev venac 4, Dositejeva 1 OZON, Andrićev venac 12, www.o3one.rs

AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla,tel. 2670-992, www.muzejvazduhoplovstva.org. MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE / MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY,

SALON MUZEJA SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI, Pariska 14, www.msub.org.rs

Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850, www.muzejnt.rs PTT MUZEJ / POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3064-170, www.pttmuzej.rs ŽELEZNIČKI MUZEJ / RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334, www.zeleznicesrbije.com

VELIKA GALERIJA DK STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, www.dksg.rs

PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJ - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2147, www.nhmbeo.rs

GALERIJA PRIRODNJAČKOG MUZEJA / GALLERY OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 3284-317, www.nhmbeo.rs

UMETNIČKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIĆ, Mali Kalemegdan, www.ulus.org.rs

BIBLIOTEKE - LIBRARIES BIBLIOTEKA GRADA BEOGRADA / BELGRADE CITY LIBRARY, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202-4024, www.bgb.org.rs

NARODNA BIBLIOTEKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 2451-242 www.nb.rs

UNIVERZITETSKA BIBLIOTEKA „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“- UNIVERSITY LIBRARY „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 3370-509, www.unilib.bg.ac.rs

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BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI BELGRADE RESTAURANTS *skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079 DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885 IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422 ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750 TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501 ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 3066509 CANTINA DE FRIDA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 2181107 DAKA, Beograd, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 219-7423 DEVETKA, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783 DIVA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422

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EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 3612-429 FRANŠ, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 2641-944 GINGER, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202- 822 IGUANA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 328-3749 KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931 KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972 KOVAČ, Bulevar oslobodjenja 221, tel. 2462-343 KUMBARA, General Ždanova 36, tel. 3906-877 LORENZO&KAKALAMBA, Cvijićeva 110, tel. 3285-351 MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332 METROPOLITAN GRILL, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140 NA ĆOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 ORAČ, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507 PIRE SLOW FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel. 2621-494

PUBLIC DINE&WINE, Kosančićev venac 29, tel.328-3680 RESTORAN 27, Istarska 27, tel. 2651-831 RUBIN, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3510-987 SOKAČE, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića bb, tel. 2625- 452 SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197 STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 TABOR, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464 TALAS, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 VUK, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 ZAPLET, Kajmakčalanska 2, tel.240-4142 ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651 (live music) ZLATNIK, Kej oslobođenja35, Zemun, tel. 210- 5565 ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421

KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel.. 3195-905 KOGO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226

HOTELI – HOTELS HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 METROPOL PALACE BELGRADE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69 , tel. 3333-100 PRESIDENT, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 SQUARE NINE HOTEL BELGRADE, Studenstki trg 9, tel. 3333 500 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 LA BARCA, Vase Pelagica 48, tel. 369-30-30 PORTO MALTESE, Ušće bb, tel. 2145-727 REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625 (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 (live music)

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS AMPHORA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2699-789 mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića bana 13, tel.3285-906 french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIĆA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 italian cuisine BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 italian cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojšina 6, tel. tel. 244 19 38, lebanon cuisine CASA, Makenzijeva 24, tel. 3860-866 IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 indian cuisine IPANEMA, Strahinjića bana 68, tel. 3283-069 italian cuisine FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 italian cuisine GASTON, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel: 32-85-811, italiana cusine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 sea food LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 italian cuisine PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 2181-931chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 italian cuisine TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 sea food VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 mexican cuisine

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.319-6369 , tel.063/7784-760 AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 ČARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467

BAH – BEOGRAD ART HOTEL,Knez Mihailova 27 tel. 3312-000 BEST WESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3095-505 BEST WESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3554-255 CRYSTAL, Internacionalnih brigada 9 tel. 715-1000 EVROPA, Sremska 1, tel. 3626-017 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 FALKENSTEINER HOTEL BELGRADE, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina, tel. 453 2325 LIFE DESIGN, Balkanska 18, tel. 3626-090 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Karađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 NEVSKI , Venizelusova 24a, tel. 322-9722 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 PRAG - POSLOVNI HOTEL, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 321-4444 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 QUEEN ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 2645-422 SRBIJA GARNI HOTEL, Brankova 13-15, tel: 2633-323 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 2450-842 TOWNHOUSE 27, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. 2022-900 ZEDER, Vojni put II 164e, Zemun, tel. 3141-400, 3149-808 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel. 3314-800

BALKAN GARNI, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 BELGRADE CITY HOTEL, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 70 23 ELEGANCE, Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel.2075-000 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 3035-858 NACIONAL, Autoput 5, tel. 2601-156 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 ROYAL, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 2626-426 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 SLODES, Borska 92, tel. 3055-518 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404

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TULIP INN , Palmira Toljatija 9 , tel. 2259-813 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-361 BRISTOL, Karađorđeva 50, Belgrade, tel. 2631-895 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 N HOTEL, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 OASIS, Novosadski autoput 75, Zemun, tel. 3166 302 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-842 TAŠ , Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-507 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670

HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. ) 341 61 40, SUČEVIĆ M ***, Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4444 www.beg.aero Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel. 2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.rs

JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.com

Međunarodni železnički saobraćaj - International railway transport, tel. 360-2899 Međunarodni autobuski saobraćaj- International bus transport, tel. 2622-526, 2627-146

Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.rs

Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.com

RENT-A-CAR AVACO RENT A CAR, Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija, tel. 24 33 797, 34 48 981 AVACO – AERODROM NIKOLA TESLA, Beograd, tel. 22 86 434, mob.381 65 535 33 25, BUDGET, Antifašističke borbe 38, 11000 Beograd, tel. 311 3050 OMNITURS, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 - 0127 AXIOM , Bul.A.Carnojevica 66, tel. 761 - 0127 SKILL, Milentija Popovica 9, Sava Centar. tel. 311-3684 EUROPCAR, Bulevar M. Pupina, 10g, tel. 212 03 42 GET MOBILE, Zorana Đinđiča 45 v, 11000 Beograd, tel. 313 06 39 UTD, Sava Centar, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 20 5000 AVIS, Hotel Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, Beograd, tel. 313 96 16 HERTZ, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 20 28 200 SIXT, Žorža Klemensoa 19, tel. 328 7070

AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRWAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroflot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000 www.alitalia.com

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AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrian.com BRITISH AIRWAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com QATAR AIRWAYS ,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879, www.qatarairways.com

QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166, www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Francuska 17/I, tel. 3035-738, www.singaporeair.rs/ž SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 3035-739, www.srilankan.aero SWISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 ,www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174, www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, www.thy.com DOMAĆE AVIO KOMPANIJE AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel.2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRWAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel.3112-123, www.jat.com

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - WAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19811 HITNA POMOĆ - EMERGENCY WARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - WEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19011 MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9813 SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAČNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11811 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of Internal Affairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.rs

ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vladete Kovačevića 14, tel. 2653-422 fax 2653-424 ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, 8th floor, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, 3031-964 fax.2635-606 Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593

BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 Odelj. za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120

BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057 Konzulat/Consular section, tel.3038-204

BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653 BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454

CRNA GORA/MONTENEGRO, Užička 1, tel. 2668-975, fax 3699-546 ČEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 ČILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 GRČKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića bana 76, tel. 3341-507

GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566

INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363 ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel.3066-169

IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555 JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 3063-000 fax 3063-042 KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163

KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122 KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431 KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974

MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 3285-076 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 (except Wednesday)

MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013 MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 NAMIBIJA/NAMIBIA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 NEMAČKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400

NORVEŠKA/NORWAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336 PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085-216 POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576 PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 2662-894 fax 2662-892 REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Kosančićev venac 2/1, tel. 263-5911

REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229 RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798

RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3613-964

SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 SAN MARINO/ SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel. 2666-124 fax 3440-221 SLOVAČKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 ŠVAJCARSKA/SWITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 Odeljenje za vize/ Visa Section, tel. 3065-815

ŠVEDSKA/SWEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 (except Wednesday)

TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 2651-848 TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998 Konzulat/Consular Section tel. 2660-247 VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 2659-651 UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3639-803, fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201

NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE BEYOND REAL ESTATE, Despota Djurdja 13, tel. 292-0377 www.beyond-realestate.com CBRE, Omladinskih brigada 88b, tel: 22 58 777, www.cbre.rs COLLIERS, Bul kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 20, tel. 2663-863, www.colliers.rs CONTINENTAL 100, Dobračina 21, mob: 064 1193671, tel: 3038662, www.continental100.rs EURORENT, Takovska 45, tel. 329- 3161, www.eurorent-belgrade.com DANOS GROUP, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 2600-603, www.danos.rs EURODIPLOMATIC, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, www.eurodiplomatic.com MENTOR REAL ESTATE, Mileševska 2, tel. 308-90-80, www.mentorrent.co.rs VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466, www.vosmediator.co.rs

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060, www.savacentar.net

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

TURISTIČKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS, Makenzijeva 26, t el. 2430-852, www.metropoliten.com EXCLUSIVE TOURS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3227-539 www.exclusivetours.co.rs MAGELAN CORPORATION, Novi Sad, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 021/6624-823 www.magelan.rs PAN EUROPA ADRIATIC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 33, tel. 3242-187 www.adriatic.co.rs SMART TRAVEL, Svetog Save 43/ I, tel. 2441253, 3087486 www.smart4.co.rs

ŠOPING MOLOVI – SHOPPING MALLS DELTA CITY, Juria Gagagarina 16 MERCATOR, Bulevar Umetnosti TC MILENIUM, Knez Mihajlova 21a UŠĆE Shopping Center, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina ZIRA, Ruzveltova 33

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Российская школа в БелгРаде, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 2163-883, www.serbschool.ucoz.ru

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923 BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIČKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIĆ, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIČKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122 PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC General Hospital, Koste Jovanovića 87 tel. 309-1000 BEL MEDIC Outpatient Clinic, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 309-1000 BEL MEDIC Dom zdravlja, Palmira Toljatija 1, tel. 309 -1000 KLINIKA PETKOVIĆ, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 MEDENTA, Novopazarska 14/1, tel: 344-0017 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808 SLODENT, Centar za estetsku stomatologiju, Lješka35, Beograd , tel: 3553-088 , 060/3553-088 ZLATARE - JEWELERS JOKIĆ JEWELRY&WATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAESTRO JEWELERS, Nušićeva 12 a, tel. 334-4459 VITANOV, Vasina 14, RK Beograd, tel. 2181 394 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990

USLUGE - SERVICES INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525 INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557, www.britinterschool.com

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Smetanina 12, tel.2666-669 , www.british-int-school.org.uk

BROOK HILL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Augusta Cesarca 2, tel. 3691-310 www.brookhill.rs

CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 www.chartwellinternational.org

DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135, www.dsbelgrad.com ÉCOLE FRANÇAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762, www.efb.rs INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL,Temišvarska 2 , tel.2667-130, www.insb.rs INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.206 9999, www.isb.co.rs PADDINGTON SUNFLOWER, English nursery, Belville, tel. 069-750-930 , www.paddingtonsunflower.com PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Kvarnerska 4, tel. 369-3060, www.primainterschoolbelgrade.com

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VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436

SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIĆ”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RADNIČKI”, Tošin bunar 190, tel. 2699-119 OMLADINSKI STADION, Mije Kovačevića 10a, tel. 3291-514 BAZENI - SWIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.rs JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835 LEDENA DVORANA - ICE HALL PIONIR, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.2766-667