Bel Guest Spring 2011 by miroslav zeljug

Belgrade and Serbia Visitors’ Magazine

Volume 11, SPRING 2011

free copy

STROLLING THROUGH TOPČIDER AND SKADARLIJA INTERVIEW ZORAN ŽIVKOVIĆ

A MYSTERY CALLED TESLA

BELGRADE 50 YEARS EARLIER

DISCOVER SERBIA NOVI SAD, VRŠAC & NIŠ

BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING TOURS

IN THIS ISSUE / IZ SADRŽAJA

6 STROLLING THROUGH TOPČIDER AND SKADARLIJA FROM PALATIAL RESIDENCE TO FAMOUS TAVERNS OD DVORSKE REZIDENCIJE DO ČUVENIH KAFANA

16 INTERVIEW - ZORAN ŽIVKOVIĆ

BEFORE THE MIRROR OF HOPES AND FEARS PRED OGLEDALOM NADE I STRAHOVANJA

22 LITERARY GUIDE - JOVAN JOVANOVIĆ ZMAJ THE MAN WHO HEALED WITH POETRY ČOVEK KOJI JE LEČIO PESMOM

30 A MYSTERY CALLED TESLA A MYSTERY CALLED TESLA TESLIN PLAVI PORTRET 3 4 EDITORIAL BELGRADE – 50 YEARS EARLIER BEOGRAD – 50 GODINA RANIJE

4 3 GREEN BELGRADE NEW PARK ON AN OLD SITE NOVI PARK NA STAROM MESTU 5 3 BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING TOURS RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA 64 CITY BREAK NOVI SAD CULTURAL POSTCARD KULTURNA RAZGLEDNICA

72 TOS RECOMMENDS A WEEKEND IN VRŠAC VIKEND U VRŠCU 82 CITY BREAK NIŠ FROM DAWN TILL DAWN OD SVITANJA DO SVITANJA 86 NIŠVILLE JAZZ FESTIVAL TOP JAZZ EVENT VRHUNSKI DŽEZ DOGAĐAJ

106 BELGRADE INFO

Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 62 tel./fax 323 12 44, 322 64 05, mob tel. 065/84 97 582 e-mail: office@belguest.rs, www.belguest.rs Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.rs www.tob.co.rs Publisher - Izdavač: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Copublisher - Suizdavač: Dejan Veselinov, vd direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Jadranka Đorđević Contributors - Saradnici: Jelena Tasić, Jovo Anđić, Gordana Miljojković, Miloš Ćurčin, Jelena Jovanović, Mile Kovač Photographs- Fotografije: Dragan Bosnić, Danilo Peternek Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević English language editor - Lektor za engleski: Mark R. Pullen Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design&Layout - Dizajn i prelom: Miroslav Zeljug Print - Štampa: Službeni glasnik, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization Front Page - Naslovna strana: Sculpture of Daphne at Ada Ciganlija, depicting a girl being transformed symbolically into a tree - an adaptation of Kapor’s drawing CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd

MAGIC MOMENTS OF YOUR HOLIDAY IN HOTEL RIVIERA

338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief Dragana Marković. - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Službeni glasnik). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010.: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

Hotel Rivijera, 85300 Petrovac, Montenegro Telephone: +382 (0)33 422-100, Fax: +382(0)33 461-314 mail : hotelrivijera@t-com.me, sajt : www.riviera-petrovac.com

E D I T O R I A L

U V O D N I K

Dear guests of Belgrade, We are often asked when the best time to visit Belgrade is. That question is very difficult to answer, as Belgrade is a living European metropolis that has a lot to offer year round. Still, if you are in Belgrade and you are reading this prestigious Belgrade magazine dedicated to the city’s guests then you should know that you are in our capital city at the right moment. Numerous events, excellent restaurants and clubs, museums, galleries and urban areas of positive ambience are waiting for you to explore them and enjoy their offer. The best way to meet Belgrade is to take part in one of the city’s organised sightseeing programmes. Sightseeing on an open-top bus, tram, hot-air balloon, bicycle, a visit to the Royal Court Complex, walking tours and, of course, boat cruises during the summer, will bring you the story of the history, tradition, culture and charming spirit of Belgrade – a city that willingly and smilingly welcomes its guests. Information on these programmes can be obtained at our tourist information points at the airport, railway station, on Knez Mihailova Street, in Skadarlija and at the Sava Pier. During the summer months life slowly descends to our two rivers: the Sava and the Danube, which Belgrade citizens are especially proud of. Numerous waterborne rafts, bicycle rides beside the rivers and strolls around Ada Ciganlija – the Belgrade Sea, as Belgraders call it – will let you relax, refresh yourself and be sure that you made the right choice when opting to visit Belgrade. Be sure to attend the Belgrade Boat Carnival event that takes place on the River Sava on 2nd July. And if the river has not cooled you enough, visit one of Belgrade’s many parks to shelter from the heat and hubbub of the city. We warmly recommend Topčider Park, where interesting programmes are organised every first Sunday of the month, or the recently reconstructed Tašmajdan Park. During the evening we recommend that you take a walk down Skadarska Street, where the sounds of tamburitza orchestras and scents of delicious food will lure you to sit at one of the restaurants that were once meetings points for Belgrade’s bohemians and artists. Bring your BelGuest with you and start exploring Belgrade, the city of an open heart. Dejan Veselinov Acting Director of the Tourism Organisation of Belgrade (TOB)

Dragi gosti Beograda, Često nas pitaju kada je najbolje vreme da se poseti Beograd. Nije lako na to odgovoriti, jer Beograd je evropska metropola koja živi i ima mnogo da ponudi tokom cele godine. Ali ako ste u Beogradu i čitate ovaj prestižni beogradski magazin posvećen gostima, znajte da ste baš u pravom trenutku u našem glavnom gradu. Mnogobrojne manifestacije, odlični restorani i klubovi, muzeji, galerije i ambijentalne celine grada čekaju vas da ih istražite i uživate u njihovoj ponudi. Najbolje ćete upoznati Beograd ako učestvujete na nekom od organizovanih razgledanja grada. Obilazak grada otvorenim autobusima, tramvajem, balonom, biciklom, poseta Dvorskom kompleksu, ture za šetače i, naravno, tokom leta vožnja brodom preneće vam priču o istoriji, tradiciji, kulturi, ali i šarmantnom duhu Beograđana, koji rado i sa osmehom dočekuju svoje goste. Informacije o tim programima možete dobiti u našim turističkim informativnim centrima na aerodromu, železničkoj stanici, u Knez Mihailovoj ulici, Skadarliji i na Savskom pristaništu. Tokom leta život se polako spušta na naše dve reke – Savu i Dunav, na koje su Beograđani posebno ponosni. Brojni splavovi na vodi, vožnja biciklom pored reka, plivanjei šetnja na Adi Ciganliji – Beogradskom moru, kako ga Beograđani zovu, učiniće da se opustite, odmorite i uverite da ste posetivši Beograd doneli pravu odluku. Obavezno posetite manifestaciju Beogradski karneval brodova, koja se ove godine održava 2. jula na Savi. A ako vas reka nije dovoljno rashladila, posetite neki od brojnih beogradskih parkova, koji su utočište od žege i gradske vreve. Topčiderski park, u kome svake prve nedelje u mesecu organizujemo zanimljiv program, i Tašmajdanski park, koji je nedavno rekostruisan, srdačno vam preporučujemo. Tokom večeri prošetajte Skadarskom ulicom, gde će vas zvuci tamburaških orkestara i ukusna hrana privući da sednete u neki od restorana koji su nekad davno bili stecište beogradskih boema i umetnika. Ponesite svoj primerak BelGuesta i krenite da istražujete Beograd, grad otvorenog srca. Dejan Veselinov V.d. direktor Turističke organizacije Beograda

Skupština grada Beograda City Assembly of Belgrade

Turistička organizacija Beograda Tourist Organization of Belgrade

BelGuest PROLEĆE | SPRING 2011

SightSeeing | Strolling through topčider and Skadarlija

From palatial residence to Famous taverns the tourism organisation of Belgrade (toB) organises strolls through different parts of the city for both guests and residents of Belgrade during spring and summer. For this issue, BelGuest has selected two strolling routes:the bohemian skadarlija street and the topčider palace complex, which is under state protection as a cultural, historical and natural area.

very first Sunday of the month, until September, toB organises a programme lasting several hours in topčider park. the programme, which begins in front of the palace of prince Miloš obrenović, offers exhibitions, city games, a musical and theatrical programme, craft bazaars, carriage rides, organised strolls etc. topčider is easily accessible by car, the number three tram or bus no. 49.

SPring | Proleće 2011 BelGuest

topčider, whose bilingual name stems from the turkish word topçu – which means ‘cannoneer’ – and the persian word der – which means ‘valley’, is tucked between the hills where the deep woods of the Šumadija hillside end. it is surrounded by the neighbourhoods of dedinje, košutnjak, topčider, Banovo Brdo, Senjak and topčiderska Zvezda. thanks to the river topčider, the area opens up towards the river Sava and ada Ciganlija.

UNDER THE TOPS OF PLANE TREES the turkish name “cannon valley” tells us that the turks cast cannons there for their siege of Belgrade in 1521 under Suleiman the Magnificent. Belgrade pashas had a residence and fish pond in topčider, where they would go to picnic. during the 17th century austrian occupation this part of Belgrade was known as topčijsko Selo (Cannon village) and during the First Serbian uprising, from 1804 to 1806, a

rebel military camp was erected there. With the publishing of hatisherif in 1830, Serbia was granted autonomous status within the ottoman empire and prince Miloš received the hereditary title of a prince through a special berat document. he chose topčider as the site of his permanent home. he managed to “convince” the Belgrade pasha with bribery and gifts not to meddle in his building affairs. his topčider residence marked the first time that the entire Serbian administration – the prince’s, ecclesiastical and military – was situated in one place. the residential complex of the obrenovićs included not only the residence, but also the church, military barracks, workshops, inns, stables, kitchens, a forest house for the guard of the hunting area etc. TOWN IN MINIATURE art historians say that topčider at the time of prince Miloš was in some sense a complete town in miniature. taking care of the economic development of Serbia, the prince developed experimental plantations, economic facilities, a greenhouse with rare plants, fish farms, silk plants, vineyards, nurseries for the whole of Serbia, an agricultural school, as well as a penal institution to provide manpower for these facilities. the penal institution and the topčider farm were later transformed into barracks and military institutions between the two world wars. With the change of dynasties on the Serbian throne in 1903, topčider was given to king petar i karađorđević for his personal enjoyment. and already by the following year he declared the property a national treasure. king petar lived in the villa in the Senjak neighbourhood until the end of his life, while his son and heir to the throne, king

aleksandar i the unifier, erected a court complex of the karađorđević dynasty in the “neighbourhood” – on property redeemed and given as a gift from the Serbian orthodox Church in dedinje. during the interwar period topčider saw the building of a summer house for Belgrade’s children, a complex of buildings and pools for ailing city youths, of which only the doctor’s house and dining room are preserved. the residence of prince Miloš is a two-storey building with spacious porches and a windowed balcony with a golden view overlooking the park. according to the designs of nikola haji Živković, it was built in three years by craftsmen janja Mihailović and nikola Đorđević. according to the data from the book “Finances and institutions of restored Serbia until 1842”, the palace complex in topčider cost the prince 76,283.13 coins. the rich interior decoration of the ceilings, walls and niches has largely survived to this day. having built residences for his wife and children in downtown Belgrade, the prince moved into his topčider residence on 3rd May 1860. during his first reign (1815-1839) he occasionally lived in topčider. When he returned to power in 1858 the residence became the palace of the principality of Serbia and hosted sessions of the great assembly and the passing of all relevant laws. prince Miloš spent his last two years in topčider and died here on 14th September 1860. eight years later, the great national assembly was held there after the assassination of prince Mihailo and it was decided that, upon entering adulthood, the throne would be given to prince Milan obrenović, who later became the first king of the renewed Serbian state. the residence is guarded from the yard side by one of the oldest and most beautiful plane trees

in europe. it is protected as a natural rarity: 34 metres high, with a trunk diameter just less than seven and a half metres across and a canopy top range of 49 metres. until the Second World War the prince’s marble table stood under the plane trees and showed the incisions “M. o. 1860”, while today one can see the stone “binjektaš” that helped him to mount his horse. the palace chapel of St. peter and paul and the church dormitory were built between 1830 and 1832. it is believed that Miloš’s life was spared at this site after an argument between the leaders of the First Serbian uprising ... on St. george day (Đurđevdan), on 6th May, people go to topčider for early morning walks and picnics, while traditional fairs are held in the courtyard on the patron saint’s day – slava –St. peter’s day (petrovdan), 12th july. the court park atn topčider is the first park in Serbia to be landscaped according to english principles, with memorial features and decorative park sculptures. it is the work of an engineer and professor of the lyceum, atanasije nikolić. the park has two pavilions: one from the time of prince Miloš and the second built by prince Mihailo in 1865, in honour of the 50th anniversary of the takovo uprising. there are also three monuments. an obelisk, the work of stonemason Franz laurent, placed in 1859 in honour of prince Miloš’s return to power. the “harvester” sculpture, the work of

museum

Miloš’s Residence is now part of the Historical Museum of Serbia. Within its permanent collection you can see the authentic furniture, objects and works of art that bear witness to the lives of Serbia’s Obrenović royals.

BelGuest Proleće | SPring 2011

leader and master

Prince Miloš (1780-1860), a duke from the First Serbian Uprising and leader of the Second Serbian Uprising, was the founder of the Obrenović Dynasty. He replaced the armed struggle for the restoration of Serbian statehood with diplomacy and cunningness. History charges him with his decision to murder the leader of the First Serbian Uprising, Duke Karađorđe. Thanks to his monopoly over exports, he was one of the wealthiest people in the Balkans and he ruled Serbia twice. Although an autocratic and illiterate merchant, he is considered one of the wisest and most capable rulers of modern Serbian history. He rests in the Saborna Cathedral Church in Belgrade. Viennese sculptor Fidelis kimmel, was erected in 1852 and represents the goddess of agriculture, Ceres. the monument to archibald reiss, a Swiss criminologist and great friend of Serbia, is the work of Marko Brežanin. it was erected in 1931 in the vicinity of reiss’s “good Field” (dobro polje) villa. the park was opened to the public in 1903, nine years after the City administration introduced an electric tram “topčider tram” (topčiderac) that linked terazije and topčider. the residence of prince Mihailo, now a private building, is located across from the residence of prince Miloš and the topčider church. it was built between 1835 and 1840, as the Metropolitan’s home, but in 1860 it was modified to meet the needs of prince Mihailo. all documents for the independence of Serbia were prepared there for the Berlin Congress. after the assassination of Bohemian atmosphere of Skadarlija

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One of the most beautiful and oldest plane trees in Europe, protected natural monument prince Mihailo, officers of the topčider garrison lived in this house, and after the Second World War it was occupied by the workers of agricultural and forestry associations. the river topčider, the right tributary of the river Sava, runs for 31 kilometres and its course has substantially altered through regulations since the time of prince Miloš. there are no more beaches for swimmers, nor swans on the confluence with the Sava. in the late 19th century topčider had three sources of healthy drinking water, from which the whole city was supplied. there are several fountains in topčider:

Miloš’s water fountain near the topčider church, Vračar taps near the road to topčiderska Zvezda, haiduk Fountain (hajdučka česma) in košutnjak and two water fountains. the topčider residential complex’s wider surroundings include: train Station topčider (1884), the memorial marker of the site of the killing of prince Mihailo on 29th May 1868, the guard house, the institute for Manufacturing Banknotes, known as the Mint, topčider cemetery – the oldest cemetery in Serbia, Belgrade’s hippodrome, the pitch of Belgrade academic Sports Club (BaSk), restaurants Miloš’s residence (Milošev konak), built in the 1830s, the more than 150 years old emperor’s bridge (Careva ćuprija) and a bit further along the Master’s tavern (gospodarska mehana), built in 1820 at the confluence of the rivers topčider and Sava. Maša’s quarry (Mašin majdan) is a geological monument of nature. a sandbank from the upper Cretaceous period that’s more than 40 million years old, its fossil remains of fish, shellfish and coral testify to the presence of the pannonian Sea in the area of Belgrade. Stone from this quarry was used to build prince Miloš’s residence, lay roads and construct the first villas in the dedinje and topčider neighbourhoods. the quarry stopped working in 1947 and the site was used to construct Belgrade’s most ambitious postwar project for public gatherings – the Summer Stage, designed by architect rajko tadić and built by volunteering citizens of Belgrade. one enters through a big stone archway into the open acoustic stage carved in limestone rock.

COBBLESTONES WITH THE SPICE OF LIFE this year’s tourist season in Skadarlija, Belgrade’s bohemian quarter, began on easter Sunday, 24th april, with the raising of the Skadarlija flag. Skadarlija’s symbols are: carnations, walking sticks and straw hats. toB and the Municipality of Stari grad announced interesting programmes for this summer, which will run until october on the steep, curved Skadarska Street that was once known for its wooden cobblestones, gas lanterns among blossoming trees, oleanders specifically planted in wooden casks, famous coffee shops and even more famous guests and singers. although the first resident of Skadarlija is considered as the ancient mammoth hunter, whose remains were found in 1892 during the digging of foundations for new buildings on the site of the Bajloni brewery, the first buildings in this street were erected during the period of austrian rule in the first half of the 18th century, as parts of the fortifications of Saint Benedict and Saint elizabeth, who later received an aqueduct with arches. in the first half of the 19th century there was a gypsy Machala, whose name was changed to Skadarska Street by the Belgrade municipality in 1872. the proximity of the national theatre and the previous operetta-vaudeville hall that today houses the Balkan Cinema, helped the area gain popularity. after the demolition of the dardanelle (dardaneli) inn in 1901, which stood on the site of today’s national theatre, actors, writers, poets, painters and journalists moved into the taverns of

Skadarlija, many of whom also lived in this street. it is thanks precisely to them that this street became the centre of bohemian life in Belgrade. on or near Skadarlija lived writers: Đura jakšić, jovan jovanović Zmaj, antun gustav Matoš, Bora Stanković, Branislav nušić, dragomir Brzak, brothers Vojislav and Žarko ilić, as well as actors: Milorad gavrilović, čiča ilija Stanojević, dobrica Milutinović, Milka grgureva, Žanka Stokić... Skadarlija was visited by josephine Baker during her visit to Belgrade in 1929. She enjoyed in gourmandise and merry parties in the former Bums-keller (“Bums cellar” or Bumsov podrum). the most frequent guest of this inn renowned for its local meat specialities was poet tin ujević. the tavern was torn down before World War ii, when the construction of multi-storey buildings changed the old appearance of Skadarlija. HE WHO HASN’T BEEN TO SKADARLIJA HASN’T BEEN TO BELGRADE the post-war reorganisation of Skadarlija began in 1966, according to the design of architect uglješa Bogunović. during the 1960s Skadarlija was twinned with the parisian quarter of Montmartre. respecting the local rule that “one who has not been to Skadarlija has never been in Belgrade,” Skadarlija’s taverns were visited by many world figures: alberto Moravia, gina lollobrigida, Burt lancaster, Willy Brandt, Margaret thatcher, Queen elizabeth ii, king juan Carlos of Spain and Queen Sofia, george h. W. Bush etc.

Skadarlija’s charm is a result of its spirit and atmosphere, as each and every corner has a story to tell. the house of Đura jakšić, where this famous Serbian painter, poet and storyteller lived and, ultimately, died in 1878, is one of Skadarlija’s oldest buildings. the same house was later inhabited by comedian čiča ilija Stanojević and dimitrije ginić, a film director and actor. Bajloni brewery is located at the corner of Skadarska and Cetinjska Streets. Company ignjat Bajloni and Sons, after which the nearby open market was named, first established a tavern with a kitchen and bowling alleys. the brewery was among the first factories in Belgrade to use electricity from the Belgrade Central power plant and at the World exhibition in paris in 1900 the company won significant awards for their products. the drinking fountains provide a special addition to Skadarlija’s atmosphere and each has its own story. in 1966 the Skadarlija tap replaced the old turkish tap fountain. it remained noted that under the vault of the aqueduct above Skadarska Street there was a small fountain with a pipe where people gathered. at the bottom of Skadarlija is Sebilj Fountain, a replica of a fountain of the same name from Sarajevo’s Baščaršija area that was gifted from the City of Sarajevo to the City of Belgrade in 1989. Jelena TaSić photographs: Danilo PeTerneK

BelGuest Proleće | SPring 2011

raZgledanje | Šetnja topčideroM i SkadarlijoM

od dvorske rezidencije do čuvenih kaFana turistička organizacija Beograda (toB) tokom proleća i leta za beogradske goste, ali i за Beograđane, organizuje šetnje različitim delovima grada. BelGuest je u ovom broju odabrao dve – boemsku skadarliju i dvorski kompleks topčider, koji je pod zaštitom države kao kulturno-istorijska i prirodna ambijentalna celina.

vake prve nedelje u mesecu, sve do septembra, toB organizuje višesatni program u topčiderskom parku. program počinje pred konakom kneza Miloša obrenovića i nudi izložbe, gradske igre, muzički i pozorišni program, bazar rukotvorina, vožnju fijakerom, organizovanu šetnju... do topčidera se jednostavno stiže kolima, tramvajem broj 3 ili autobusom broj 49. topčider, čiji dvojezični naziv potiče od turske reči topči – tobdžija i persijskog dare – dolina, ušuškan

SPring | Proleće 2011 BelGuest

je između brda na kojima se završavaju guste šume šumadijskog pobrđa. okružuju ga dedinje, košutnjak, topčidersko i Banovo brdo, Senjak i topčiderska zvezda. Zahvaljujući topčiderskoj reci, otvara se ka Savi i špicu ade Ciganlije. POD KROŠNJAMA PLATANA tursko ime „topčijska dolina“ govori da su turci tu lili topove za opsadu Beograda 1521. pod Sulejmanom Veličanstvenim. Beogradske paše su

u topčideru imale konak i ribnjak, gde su dolazile na izlete.. u vreme austrijske okupacije, u 17. veku, taj deo Beograda zvao se topčijsko selo, a tokom prvog srpskog ustanka, od 1804. do 1806, tu je bio smešten ustanički vojni logor. objavljivanjem hatišerifa ,1830. Srbija je dobila autonomni status u okviru osmanskog carstva, a knez Miloš posebnim beratom naslednu titulu kneza. Za svoj stalni dom odabrao je topčider. Beogradskog pašu je mitom i darovima „ubedio“ da

voĐa i Gospodar

- Knez Miloš (1780-1860), vojvoda iz Prvog i vođa Drugog srpskog ustanka, osnivač je dinastije Obrenović. Oružanu borbu za obnovu državnosti Srbije zamenio je diplomatijom i lukavstvom. Istorija mu na teret stavlja odluku o ubistvu vožda Karađorđa, vođe Prvog srpskog ustanka. Zahvaljujući monopolu nad izvozom, bio je jedan od najbogatijih ljudi na Balkanu. Vladao je Srbijom u dva navrata. Iako autokrata i nepismen trgovac, smatra se jednim od najumnijih i najumešnijih vladara u modernoj srpskoj istoriji. Počiva u Sabornoj crkvi u Beogradu. mu ne kvari gradnju. u njegovoj topčiderskoj rezidenciji prvi put na jednom mestu našla se celokupna srpska uprava – kneževska, crkvena i vojna. rezidencijalni kompleks obrenovića obuhvatao je ne samo konak nego i crkvu, vojne kasarne, radionice, kafane, konjušnice, kuhinje, šumsku kuću za čuvara lovišta... GRAD U MALOM istoričari umetnosti kažu da je topčider iz vremena kneza Miloša bio, u neku ruku, grad u malom. Brinući se o ekonomskom razvoju Srbije, knez je tu podigao i ogledna dobra, ekonomije, staklenu baštu sa retkim biljem, ribnjake, svilaru, vinograde, rasadnike za celu Srbiju, poljoprivrednu školu, te kazneni zavod, kako bi obezbedio radnu snagu za ta dobra. kazneni zavod i topčiderska ekonomija između dva svetska rata u 20. veku pretvoreni su u kasarne i vojne ustanove. Smenom dinastija na srpskom prestolu, 1903. topčider je dat na lično uživanje kralju petru prvom karađorđeviću, koji ga je već naredne 1904. pro-

glasio za narodno dobro. kralj petar je kraj života dočekao u vili na Senjaku, a njegov sin i naslednik na prestolu kralj aleksandar prvi ujedinitelj, dvorski kompleks dinastije karađorđević podigao je u „komšiluku“ – na otkupljenim i od Srpske pravoslavne crkve dobijenim parcelama na dedinju. u međuratnom razdoblju u topčideru su sagrađeni letnjikovac za beogradsku decu, kompleks zgrada i bazena za bolešljivu gradsku omladinu, od kojih su sačuvani samo lekarska kuća i trpezarija. konak kneza Miloša je zgrada na dva sprata, sa prostranim tremovima i „divanhanom“ – zastakljenim balkonom sa zlata vrednim pogledom na park. prema nacrtima nikole hadži Živkovića, sagradili su je za tri godine majstori janja Mihailović i nikola Đorđević. prema podacima iz knjige „Finasije i ustanove obnovljene Srbije do 1842“, kneza je dvorski kompleks u topčideru koštao 76.283,13 groša. Bogata unutrašnja dekoracija plafona, zidova i niša dobrim delom je sačuvana do danas. knez se u svoj konak (ženi i deci konake je sagradio u beogradskoj varoši), uselio 3. maja 1860. godina. tokom prve vladavine (1815-1839) povremeno je boravio u topčideru. kad se vratio na vlast 1858, konak je postao dvor kneževine Srbije, u njemu je zasedala Velika skupština i tu su doneti svi važniji zakoni. knez Miloš je u topčideru proveo poslednje dve godine života i preminuo 14. septembra 1860. godine. tu je osam godina kasnije održana i Velika narodna skupština posle ubistva kneza Mihaila, na kojoj je odlučeno da na presto, posle punoletstva, stupi knez, a potom i prvi kralj obnovljene srpske države Milan obrenović. konak sa dvorišne strane čuva jedan od najstarijih i najlepših platana u evropi. Zaštićen je kao

prirodna retkost: visok je 34 metra, obim stabla mu je nešto manji od sedam i po metara, a raspon krošnje 49 metara. do drugog svetskog rata ispod platana stajao je knežev mermerni sto, na kojem je bilo urezano „M.o. 1860“, a danas je tu kamen „binjektaš“, koji mu je olakšavao da se popne na konja. dvorska kapela svetog petra i pavla i crkveni konak sagrađeni su između 1830. i 1832. na mestu, na kojem je, kako se veruje, posle svađe među prvacima prvog srpskog ustanka Milošu pošteđen život.. na Đurđevdan 6. maja u topčider se ide na uranak, a na slavu –petrovdan, 12. jula, u porti se održavaju tradicionalni vašari. dvorski park u topčideru je prvi park u Srbiji uređen po engleskim principima, sa spomen-obeležjima i ukrasnim parkovskim skulpturama. delo je inženjera i profesora liceja atanasija nikolića. u parku se nalaze dva paviljona: jedan iz vremena kneza Miloša, drugi je sagradio knez Mihailo 1865, u čast 50-godišnjice takovskog ustanka. tu su i tri spomenika. obelisk, rad kamenoresca Franca lorana, postavljen 1859. u čast povratka kneza Miloša na vlast. Skulptura Žetelica, rad bečkog vajara Fidelisa kimela, postavljena je 1852. i predstavlja boginju zemljoradnje Ceceru. Spomenik arčibaldu rajsu, švajcarskom kriminologu i velikom srpskom prijatelju, rad Marka Brežanina, postavljen je 1931. u blizini rajsove vile „dobro polje“. park je za javnost otvoren 1903, devet godina pošto je uprava beogradske varoši uvela električni tramvaj „topčiderac“ koji je povezivao terazije i topčider. konak kneza Mihaila, koji je sada privatna zgrada, nalazi se preko puta konaka kneza Miloša i topčiderske crkve. Sagrađen je između 1835. i 1840, kao mitropolitova rezidencija, ali je 1860.

A detail from the Residence of Prince Miloš

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muzej

Milošev konak je danas muzej u sastavu Istorijskog muzeja Srbije i u njemu se, u okviru stalne postavke, mogu videti autentičan nameštaj, predmeti i umetnine koje svedoče o životu srpske vladarske porodice Obrenović.

Carriage in Topčider Park – the charm of past times prepravljen za potrebe kneza Mihaila. u tom zdanju pripremljeni su svi dokumenti za osamostaljenje države Srbije na Berlinskom kongresu. posle ubistva kneza Mihaila, u toj kući živeli su oficiri topčiderskog garnizona, a posle drugog svetskog rata u nju su useljeni radnici poljoprivrednog i šumarskog društva. topčiderska reka, desna pritoka Save, ima dužinu toka od 31 kilometar, koji je od vremena kneza Miloša regulacijama znatno izmenjen. Više nema plaža za kupače, niti labudova na ušću u Savu. topčider je krajem 19. veka imao tri izvora sa zdravom vodom za piće, sa kojih se snabdevao ceo grad. u njemu se nalazi više česama: Miloševa kod topčiderske crkve, Vračarske česme kraj puta ka topčiderskoj zvezdi, hajdučka u košutnjaku... te dva vodoskoka. u široj okolini topčiderskog rezidencijalnog kompleksa nalaze se : Železnička stanica topčider (1884), spomen-obeležje mesta na kojem je u košutnjaku 29. maja 1868. ubijen knez Mihailo, dom garde, Zavod za izradu novčanica, poznatiji kao kovnica novca, topčidersko groblje – najstarije u Srbiji, beogradski hipodrom, igralište Beogradskog akademskog sportskog kluba (BaSk), restorani: „Milošev konak“, podignut tridesetih godina 19. veka, više od 150 godina stara „Careva ćuprija“ i nešto dalje „gospodarska mehana“, sagrađena 1820. na ušću topčiderske reke u Savu. Mašin majdan je geološki spomenik prirode. reč je o više od četrdeset miliona godina starom sprudu iz doba gornje krede, čiji fosilni ostaci riba, školjki i korala svedoče o prisustvu panonskog mora na prostoru Beograda. od kamena iz tog majdana zidan je konak kneza Miloša, pravljeni putevi i prve dedinjske i topčiderske vile. kamenolom je prestao da radi 1947. i na tom prostoru je izgrađen najambiciozniji posleratni projekat za javna okupljanja u Beogradu – letnja pozornica, delo arhitekte rajka tadića i dobrovoljnog rada Beograđana. kroz veliki kameni luk ulazi se na otvorenu scenu sa akustičnom pozor-

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nicom uklesanom u krečnjačke stene. KALDRMA SA ZAČINOM ŽIVOTA ovogodišnja turistička sezona u Skadarliji, boemskom kvartu Beograda, počela je na Vaskrs, 24. aprila, podizanjem skadarlijske zastave. Simboli Skadarlije su: karanfil, štap i žirado šešir. toB i opština Stari grad za ovo leto najavljuju zanimljive programe koji će trajati do oktobra u strmoj, krivudavoj Skadarskoj ulici, nekada poznatoj po drvenoj kaldrmi, plinskim fenjerima među rascvetalim drvećem, posebno lijanderima zasađenim u drvenim buradima, čuvenim kafanama i još čuvenijim gostima i pevačima. iako se prvim stanovnikom Skadarlije smatra lovac na antičkog slona, čiji su ostaci pronađeni 1892, pri kopanju temelja za nove zgrade Bajlonijeve pivare, prve zgrade u ovoj ulici podignute su tokom austrijske vladavine u prvoj polovini 18. veka, kao delovi fortifikacije Svetog Benedikta i Svete elizabete, koja je kasnije dobila i akvadukt sa lukovima. u prvoj polovini 19. veka tu je bila ciganska mahala, kojoj 1872. Beogradska opština menja ime u Skadarska ulica. Blizina narodnog pozorišta i nekadašnje operetskovodviljske dvorane u današnjem bioskopu „Balkan“

pomogli su da ovaj kraj dobije na popularnosti. posle rušenja kafane „dardaneli“ 1901, koja se nalazila na mestu današnjeg narodnog pozorišta, u skadarlijske kafane prelaze glumci, književnici, pesnici, slikari i novinari, od kojih su mnogi i živeli u toj ulici. ona je upravo zahvaljujući njima postala središte boemskog života Beograda. u Skadarliji ili u njenoj blizini stanovali su književnici: Đura jakšić, jovan jovanović Zmaj, antun gustav Matoš, Bora Stanković, Branislav nušić, dragomir Brzak, braća Vojislav i Žarko ilić, te glumci: Milorad gavrilović, čiča ilija Satnojević, dobrica Milutinović, Milka grgureva, Žanka Stokić... Skadarliju je tokom gostovanja u Beogradu 1929. posetila i džozefina Beker, koja je uživala u gurmanlucima i veselim sedeljkama u nekadašnjoj kafani „Bums-keler“ („Bumsov podrum“). najčešći gost te kafane, poznate po ćevapima, bio je pesnik tin ujević. kafana je srušena pred drugi svetski rat, kad se izgradnjom višespratnica promenio stari izgled Skadarlije. KO NIJE BIO U SKADARLIJI, NIJE NI BIO U BEOGRADU posleratno preuređenje Skadarlije počelo je 1966, prema projektu arhitekte uglješe Bogunovića, a tih godina ona se pobratimila sa pariskim Monmartrom. poštujući domaće pravilo da „ko nije bio u Skadarliji, nije ni bio u Beogradu“, skadarlijske kafane posetile su i mnoge svetske ličnosti: albert Moravija, Đina lolobriđida, Bert lankaster, Vili Brant, Margaret tačer, kraljica elizabeta, španski kralj huan karlos i kraljica Sofija, džordž Buš Stariji... A toast in Skadarlija

Music is an unavoidable companion of Skadarlija nights Šarm Skadarlije čine duh i atmosfera, jer svaki njen kutak ima svoju priču. kuća Đure jakšića, u kojoj je živeo čuveni srpski slikar, pesnik i pripovedač, i u kojoj je 1878. umro, jedna je od najstarijih zgrada u Skadarliji. u istoj kući kasnije su stanovali komičar čiča ilija Stanojević i reditelj i glumac dimitrije ginić. Bajlonijeva pivara nalazi se na uglu Skadarske i Cetinjske ulice. Firma ignjat Bajloni i sinovi, po kojoj je ime dobila i obližnja pijaca, otvorila je kafanu s kuhinjom i kuglanama. pivara u Skadarliji je među prvim beogradskim fabrikama koje su koristile električnu energiju Beogradske električne centrale, a na Svetskoj izložbi u parizu 1900. osvojila je značajne nagrade za svoje proizvode. česme su poseban dodatak atmosferi Skadarlije, svaka sa svojom pričom. Skadarlijska iz 1966. zamenila je staru tursku česmu. ostalo je zabeleženo da se pod svodom akvadukta, koji je išao preko Skadarske ulice, nalazila mala česma sa jednom lulom i na njoj se narod okupljao. na dnu Skadarlije nalazi se Sebilj česma, replika istoimene sarajevske česme sa Baščaršije, koju je Sarajevo 1989. poklonilo Beogradu. Jelena TaSić fotografije: Danilo PeTerneK Aleksandar Stanojlović

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interview | Zoran živković, Serbia’S moSt tranSlated writer of the early 21st century

STANDING BEFORE THE MIRROR OF HOPES AND FEARS Faced with limited longevity and attempts to grasp a sense of one’s own existence, we all stand before the same mirror of hopes and fears. The minor differences that separate us are not at all important on that big stage and only the art of prose can provide answers to the most difficult questions.

ealing with the elegant and ancient art of prose, Zoran živković creates unique visions that perfectly serve his bleak sense of humour filled with absurdities. (Guardian, uk). one of the most translated modern Serbian writers, živković – author of 19 works of prose that have been published in 57 foreign editions worldwide – has been proclaimed by the most influential critics as the leading candidate for the title of “the new borges” (new york times book review). almost all of živković’s books have been translated into a number of languages, including russian, english, German, czech, romanian and korean, while in 2005 his story provided the basis for the shooting of the first Serbian sci-fi series, The Collector. živković is a recipient of the world fantasy award for his mosaic-novel Library (2003), the miloš crnjanski award for his work The Fourth Circle (1994), the isidora Sekulić award for The Bridge (2007), as well as the Stefan mitrov ljubiša award (2007) for his complete works of prose. his novels The Fourth Circle and Seven Touches of Music are studied at north american universities. When one thinks about you, comparisons with Umberto Eco emerge. Like you, he too is from academic circles, is an erudite, a writer who gained fame with his first book and who had no failures... - i feel a great affinity with this italian master of prose. he is certainly among the writers i most relied upon during my literary youth. other contemporaries of mine who undoubtedly shaped my distinctive prose include Jose Saramago, milan kundera, orhan Pamuk, haruki murakami, tamar Jelin... and that certainly doesn’t finalise the list. Your biography includes various walks of life. Writer, translator, publisher, professor of literature; you also run a school of creative

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writing... A businessman made of art that impresses critics. How do you connect those disparate worlds? - if we dismiss “businessman”, which i certainly i am not – at least not in the usual balkan sense – the other activities are actually quite related. they can all be placed under the large umbrella of literature. a mitigating factor is the fact that i stopped some of the activities you mentioned. for example, i stopped being a publisher more than ten years ago. i am not at all sorry that i stopped being a publisher. at the time when i was among the first to publish books independently as a self-publisher, in the early 1980s, it was a decent profession, as it should be. today the publishing business is mostly about pure trade. People are proud of the fact that they don’t read anything, they procure cheap paper, put some kind of pattern in the form of letters on it and sell it expensively. - i also gave up translation work after translating 80 books. at this time the art of translation has mostly deteriorated to shameless dilettantism. Strange is that paradox. i understand that publishers don’t care about the quality of translation and that they do not read anything, but how can who read and buy expensive books not care? - nevertheless, even if i wanted to continue as a publisher and translator, my age would inevitably become an obstacle. at 62 i only have the strength for two types of literature: being a writer and being a professor of creative writing. knowing how demanding both of these jobs are, i am able to say without modesty that it is not at all insignificant... International literary critics refer to you as “a master of creating amazing worlds”, “one of the most outstanding writers currently creating in New Europe”, “scarily intelligent”... Do you view that

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recognition as some kind of obligation? What, along other things, is the price one must pay for creating a work of art? - words of praise always represent a commitment. one doesn’t have the right to betray or belittle them. one must live up to them at all times. honoris causa obligat. and as for the price one must pay for creating a work of art – it has always and everywhere been the highest... How are your books created: are they conceived when you sit in front of a computer, after long consideration or when you grasp a concept, colour, smell etc.? What encourages and guides you through the creative process? - that is one of the most difficult questions a writer could be asked. i don’t believe there are two identical responses to it. the way a work of art is conceived is one of the most mysterious phenomena in nature, irreducible to any algorithms. that is why computers will never be able to handle artistic creation. - a new literary work ripens somewhere in my subconscious – the place where everything i’ve ever seen, heard, experienced, lived or read merges. there a kind of continuous fermentation dominates and slowly grows into a critical mass. when that is reached it means the work has been shaped, even if i am still unaware of it. i receive the message from the subconscious in the form of an introductory image of a new part or first sentence. this mainly happens in the morning, when i am at my freshest. that first signal usually wakes me from my slumber. there is no need to rush to the computer then. that which has once been shaped in the subconscious remains there indefinitely. i can write it down later the same morning or even much later...

Your works of prose are characterised by an apparent simplicity and genuine sense of timelessness. The fact that the nationality of the characters cannot be determined and the location cannot be correctly identified contributes to their approachability for readers from the United States, South Korea or Japan. Is that a deliberate part of your creative process? - There is no central calculated narrative strategy. I would write in precisely the same way if I were, for example, an Inuit or a Papuan and not a Serb. I don’t think one can succeed in the greatest literary challenges on one’s local territory. What makes my prose accessible and readable around the world is that they delve into topics that we all share as human beings, regardless of our ethnicity, religion or any other prefix. Faced with limited longevity and attempts to grasp a sense of one’s own existence, we all stand before the same mirror of hopes and fears. The minor differences that separate us are not at all important on that big stage and only the art of prose can provide answers to the most difficult questions. I am aware that this must look very immodest, but I dare say that the international success of my books is partly because they offer at least some of these responses. In your address on the occasion of receiving the Isidora Sekulić Award you spoke, among other things, about the position of the artist. How does a writer of international repute like you live and how do you deal with “the ancient and elegant art of prose” in Belgrade?

- I live in the only way that is appropriate for a citizen who believes it is important how others perceive them: speaking reservedly, inconspicuously, unobtrusively; courteously and politely. Using public transport, buying at supermarkets and appearing normal. Watching theatre plays, going to concerts, visiting bookshops and libraries. There is nothing unusual about his life until he sits down at his desk and turns on his computer or until he appears before students in the lecture hall of the Faculty of Philology. Only then does he become special in a certain modest way... I would say that local critics are divided between those who believe you reached your peak with the work Library and those who find The Fourth Circle one of the most outstanding examples of modern fiction. As supposedly the harshest critic of your own work, which book or story would you say is the one in which you surpassed yourself? - I have not ‘surpassed’ myself with any of my books. How could I do that, after all? This is a kind of contradictio in adiecto. If, however, I were to reword your question and ask which of my books I find the dearest, then I would have to refuse to give you an answer. A writer is simply incapable of having favourites among his works. This is the nature of things... Snežana ĐOKIĆ photographs: Dušan aTLaGIĆ

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Zoran živković, na JPrevođeniJi SrPSki PiSac S Početka 21. veka

PRED OGLEDALOM NADE I STRAHOVANJA

Suočeni sa ograničenim trajanjem u vremenu i pokušajima da dokučimo izvestan smisao vlastitog postojanja, svi stojimo pred istim ogledalom nade i strahovanja. Male razlike koje nas razdvajaju uopšte nisu bitne na toj velikoj pozornici, a jedino nam umetnost proze može podariti odgovore na najteža pitanja.

aveći se otmenom i drevnom umetnošću proze, Zoran živković sazdaje osobene vizije koje se savršeno slažu s njegovom sumornom duhovitošću punom apsurda. (Gardijan, velika britanija). Jednog od najprevođenijih savremenih srpskih književnika, autora 19 proznih dela, koja su do sada objavljena u 57 stranih izdanja širom sveta, najznačajniji kritičari proglašavaju za vodećeg kandidata za titulu novog borhesa („njujork tajm buk rivju“). Skoro sve živkovićeve knjige prevedene su na više stranih jezika, među kojima su

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ruski, engleski, nemački, češki, rumunski, korejski, a 2005. godine po njegovoj priči snimljena je i prva srpska naučnofantastična serija „Sakupljač“. živković je dobitnik Svetske nagrade za fantastiku za roman mozaik „biblioteka“ (2003), nagrade miloš crnjanski za „četvrti krug“ (1994), nagrade isidora Sekulić za „most“(2007), te nagrade Stefan mitrov ljubiša (2007) za ukupno prozno stvaralaštvo. njegovi romani „četvrti krug“ i „Sedam dodira muzike“ izučavaju se na severnoameričkim univerzitetima.

U razmišljanju o Vama nameće se poređenje sa Umbertom Ekom. Kao i Vi, on je iz akademskih krugova, erudita, pisac koji je već s prvom knjigom stekao slavu i koji nije imao promašaja... – Osećam veliku srodnost sa italijanskim majstorom proze. On svakako ide u red pisaca na koje sam se u književnom stasavanju najviše oslanjao. Među ostale moje savremenike koji su neosporno uticali na oblikovanje mog osobenog proznog iskaza svakako bih ubrojao Žozea Saramaga, Milana Kunderu, Orhana Pamuka, Harukija Murakamija, Tamar Jelin... Spisak se nipošto tu ne okončava.

Novo književno delo dozreva negde u mom nesvesnom – mestu gde se nahodi sve ono što sam ikada video, čuo iskusio, doživeo, pročitao. Tamo vlada svojevrsno neprekidno vrenje u kome polako stasava kritična masa. Kada se ona dostigne, to znači da je delo oblikovano, premda ga ja i dalje nisam svestan. Iz nesvesnog mi o tome stiže poruka u vidu uvodne slike novog dela ili prve rečenice. Ovo se događa uglavnom ujutro, kada sam najsvežiji. Taj prvi signal obično me budi iz sna. Nema potrebe da tada žurim za kompjuter. Ono što se jednom oblikuje u nesvesnom ostaje tamo trajno. Mogu da ga zapišem u produžetku istog jutra, ali i znatno kasnije...

Vaša biografija beleži različita zanimanja. Pisac, prevodilac, izdavač, profesor književnosti, vodite i školu kreativnog pisanja... Poslovni čovek sačinjen od umetnosti koji zadivljuje kritičare. Kako spajate te raznorodne svetove? – Ako se izuzme „poslovni čovek“, što svakako nisam, bar ne u uobičajenom balkanskom smislu, ostale delatnosti uopšte nisu nesrodne. Sve one staju pod veliki kišobran književnosti. Olakšavajuća okolnost jeste i to što sam prestao da se bavim nekima od oblasti koje ste naveli. Izdavač, recimo, nisam već više od deset godina. Najmanje mi je žao što sam to prestao da budem. U vreme kada sam među prvima počeo da objavljujem knjige u svojstvu privatnog izdavača, početkom osamdesetih godina prošlog veka, to je bio otmen posao, kao što to jedino i dolikuje. Danas je to uglavnom puka trgovina. Ljudi koji se diče time da ništa ne čitaju, jeftino nabave hartiju, na nju nanesu nekakav dezen u vidu slova, a onda je skupo prodaju. Digao sam ruke i od prevoditeljskog posla, posle osamdesetak prevedenih knjiga. U ovo vreme umetnost prevođenja poglavito se srozala na besramni dilentantizam. Čudnovat je taj paradoks. Razumem da je izdavačima svejedno kakav je kvalitet prevoda, oni ništa ne čitaju, ali kako može da bude svejedno onima koji kupuju knjige po paprenim cenama? No, sve i da sam želeo da i dalje budem izdavač i prevodilac, tome bi se neumitno usprotivile moje godine. U šezdeset drugoj vremena i snage još imam samo za dva vida književnosti: da budem pisac i profesor kreativnog pisanja. Znajući koliko su oba ova posla zahtevna, bez ustručavanja smem da ustvrdim da to nipošto nije malo...

Vaša prozna dela odlikuju prividna jednostavnost i stvarna bezvremenost. To što se likovi ne mogu nacionalno odrediti, niti mesta radnje tačno utvrditi doprinosi njihovom razumljivom obraćanju čitaocima od SAD do Južne Koreje i Japana. Da li je to namerni deo Vašeg stvaralačkog postupka? – Nije posredi nikakva sračunata narativna strategija. Potpuno bih isto pisao i da sam, recimo, Eskim ili Papuanac, a ne Srbin. Mislim da se na području lokalnog ne može dospeti do najvećih književnih izazova. Ono što moju prozu čini prijemčivom i čitljivom širom sveta jeste poniranje u teme koje su nam svima zajedničke kao ljudskim bićima, bez obzira na to kakav nam je etnički, verski ili bilo koji drugi prefiks. Suočeni s ograničenim trajanjem u vremenu i pokušajima da dokučimo izvestan smisao vlastitog postojanja, svi stojimo pred istim ogledalom nade i strahovanja. Male razlike koje nas razdvajaju uopšte nisu bitne na toj velikoj pozornici, a jedino nam umetnost proze može podariti odgovore na najteža pitanja. Svestan da ovo mora delovati krajnje neskromno, usuđujem se da kažem da je izvesna zaloga međunarodnog uspeha mojih knjiga to što nudi bar neke od ovih odgovora...

Svetski književni kritičari o Vama govore kao o „majstoru u sazdavanju čudesnih svetova“, „jednom od najizvrsnijih pisaca koji trenutno stvaraju u Novoj Evropi“, „zastrašujuće inteligentnom“... Da li Vas to prepoznavanje na neki način obavezuje? Koja se, uostalom, cena mora platiti za stvaranje umetničkog dela? – Pohvalne reči uvek obavezuju. Nemate pravo da ih izneverite i obezvredite. Morate u svakom trenutku da im budete dorasli. Honoris causa obligat. A što se tiče cene koja se mora platiti za stvaranje umetničkog dela – ona je uvek i svuda bila najveća... Kako nastaju Vaše knjige: da li se začinju kada sednete pred uključeni kompjuter, posle dugotrajnog promišljanja, ili kada uhvatite neku misao, boju, miris...? Šta Vas to podstiče i vodi kroz proces stvaranja? – Posredi je jedno od najtežih pitanja koje možete postaviti piscu. Ne verujem da postoje dva istovetna odgovora na njega. Način na koji se začinje umetničko delo jedna je od najtajanstvenijih pojava u prirodi, nesvodiva ni na kakve algoritme. Zato kompjuteri nikada neće biti kadri za umetničko stvaranje.

U besedi povodom dodele Nagrade „Isidora Sekulić“ govorili ste, između ostalog, i o položaju umetnika. Kako, dakle, pisac međunarodnog ugleda kao što ste Vi živi i kako se bavi „drevnom i otmenom umetnošću proze“ u Beogradu? – Živi onako kako jedino i dolikuje građaninu koji drži do toga kako će ga drugi videti: ophodi se uzdržano, neupadljivo, nenametljivo. Pristojno i uljudno. Vozi se javnim gradskim prevozom, kupuje po supermarketima, izgleda obično. Gleda pozorišne predstave, odlazi na koncerte, pohađa knjižare i biblioteke. Nema ničeg neobičnog u njegovom životu sve dok ne sedne za svoj radni sto, pred uključeni kompjuter ili dok se ne nađe pred studentima u slušaonicama Filološkog fakulteta. Jedino onda postaje poseban u izvesnom skromnom obimu... Ovdašnji se kritičari, rekla bih, dele na one koji misle da ste vrh dostigli „Bibliotekom“, i na one kojima je „Četvrti krug“ jedan od izuzetnih trenutaka moderne fantastike. Recimo da sami o sebi najoštrije sudite, koju biste knjigu, priču označili kao onu u kojoj ste prevazišli sebe? – Nijednom svojom knjigom nisam „prevazišao“ sebe. Kako bih to, uostalom, i mogao? Posredi je svojevrstan contradictio in adjecto. Ako bih, pak, preinačio Vaše pitanje tako da glasi koja mi je od mojih proznih knjiga, recimo, najdraža, i tada bih morao da vam uskratim odgovor. Pisac naprosto nije vlastan da ima miljenike među svojim delima. To je u prirodi stvari... Snežana ĐOKIĆ fotografije: Dušan aTLaGIĆ

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A portrait of Jovan Jovanović Zmaj, oil on canvas, by Uroš Predić

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THE MAN WHO HEALED WITH POETRY The Serbian language became much more beautiful when Zmaj spoke and sang. We were lucky, we had Zmaj, who thought and sang easily, cleverly and clearly. That great and blue day that was opened by Zmaj with his songs is still continuing - wrote one of Zmaj Jovana’s best students, Duško Radović

ovan Jovanovic Zmaj is Serbia’s most popular poet and founder of children’s poetry. Children’s songs were written by others before him, but it was only Zmaj’s verses that became part of the collective memory, like genuine anthems of nature and life – “How pretty this world is” or generations of known tutoring – “Before and after meals hands should be washed” ... In our memories are other Zmaj lyrics that we have almost forget are his works. Most of them are well known and are considered old city songs and indispensable parts of the bohemian atmosphere: “Silent night, my gold sleeps”, “In this wonderful night”, “The sky is so clear”, “Winter is coming, my quince”, “One little girl” etc. TEMPTATIONS ACCORDING TO JOVAN Jovan was named after his grandfather, whose own father, Kosta, originally a Tzintzer, moved to Novi Sad from Macedonia. The fact that he was born and spent his youth in Novi Sad, which was then considered the cultural centre of all Serbs, wasn’t without impact on his life. The Hungarian Revolt of 1848 found him as a fifteen-year-old high school pupil in the circle of his family. It was only his time in Vienna and the years spent studying legal science that contributed to his political and life maturity. During his nearly seven-year stay he gained role models: poetic - Branko Radičević, political - Svetozar Miletić and lifelong friend - Đura Jakšić. Studying law did not go too well for him, but all the same he was ever more successful as a poet and translator. He returned to Novi Sad hailed as “one of the best new Serbian poets,” but he did not finish law. Still, he gained a good place as an actuary in the city government, of which Svetozar Miletić was the mayor. The year 1861 was significant for his life because that year he decided to resign and launch the literary magazine Javor (Maple), but even more importantly it was then that he met Eufrosina, Ruža Ličanin, who would become his wife in the next year. This happy period of life is immortalized by the poems he published in Javor, which were a kind of lyrical diary called “Đulići”, according to Ruža, đulu. From there the life journey of Jovan Jovanović began to resemble the Old Frontpage Pattern of ‘ Neven children’s magazine

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Jovan Jovanović, around 1895 Testament book of Job. Like the new times of Job, as though tempted by fate, he was deprived of that which was most valuable to him: one child at a time, who fell ill and died. Mirko died, then Sava, Jug, Tijana and finally his loving wife Ruža. When it seemed that fate could not be crueler, it also took Smiljka, his favourite daughter. Smiljka was taken care of by his long-standing housekeeper, the widow Marija Kostić. And when Zmaj once again assumed the role of parent, step-father of his housekeeper’s children, two step-daughters, Maca and Anka, died before he’d turned 30, only a few years before his death. The poet was aware of the temptations he was exposed to, thus in one poem he described a dream about an encounter with God, who told him to respect his woes and pain and return them to the people with the message “let the pain lift you, do not let it break you”. In another dream he heard the voices of his ill-fated children, who told him: “Wherever young Serb is, kiss it for us.” Then he turned his attention even more towards Serbian children. Immeasurable personal loss only reduces that which is ours, even in the case of poetry in the world context, thus he received priceless value in certain parts of the lyrical diary of his suffering: “Đulići uveoci” and the parts of “Đulići”. In “Đulići uveoci” he wrote at one point: “Blessed is he who is able to express pain without words” and elsewhere “from agony poems fly”. THE POET BECOMES A DOCTOR & A DRAGON At the beginning of the happiest period of his life, in 1863, Jovan Jovanović gained appointment as trustee of the Foundation Save Tekelije – “Tekelianum” in Budapest. During his seven-year stay he completed medical studies and

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returned to Novi Sad as a doctor. He also returned with a new nickname, Zmaj (Dragon), derived from the name of the magazine he launched in 1864. The publication had been called “3rd May” in recognition of the date of the May Assembly in Sremski Karlovci in 1848, when requirements were set for autonomy in relations with Austria. After returning to Novi Sad, Zmaj opened his first clinic and then moved to Pančevo, where two years later his wife Ruža died and he was unable to save her life even as a doctor. During the seven decades of his long life, Zmaj spent as much as five decades dealing with his literary works and four decades as an editor of his own journals or those of others. If we add to that his work as a doctor and other activities, such as that of a playwright of the National Theatre during his first stay in Belgrade, it is clear that this was a man with exceptional dedication, energy and work ethics. He wrote every day and left behind a voluminous collection. So much so that his favourite publication Neven, the best children’s publication

Zmaj on a banknote from the time of hyperinflation

in the country, continued publishing his articles for years after his death. He also translated and his translations were often better than the originals. Critics contend that his political poetry raised the standard to a high level that hasn’t been surpassed to this day. TESLA’S KISS World-renowned and glorified Nikola Tesla loved Zmaj’s poetry. During his one and only visit to Belgrade in 1892, Zmaj read his poem “Greetings to Nikola Tesla upon his arrival in Belgrade” during dinner. Newspapers noted that the poet, visibly shaken, could hardly read the poem to the end, while Tesla, himself deeply moved, stood up during the reading of the poem, took Zmaj’s hand and kissed it. Many of A letter from Nikola Tesla to Zmaj, 1894 those present, watching the scene, began to cry. Responding to these verses, Tesla remembered one night-time experiment, endless joy and moments of ecstasy Electrical tubes and lamps shaped in glass shone as a tribute to the great scienwhen the experiment finally succeeded. He felt similar joy when he heard tists Helmholtz, Faraday, Maxwell, Henry and Franklin, while among them was the greeting “from a man who is the only one in the Serbian nation who is so the name of famous Serbian poet Jovan Jovanović Zmaj. The following year worshipped and admired, and whose songs are read in distant foreign lands Tesla published his article “Jovan Jovanović Zmaj – the greatest Serbian poet of and are loved and watered with tears...” our time”, in an effort to present Zmaj’s works to the American public. In a letter At the 1893 World Exhibition in Chicago sensational success was achieved to his uncle Tesla concluded that his article had been a greater contribution to using Tesla’s patents and Tesla himself, in a tuxedo with a white tie, showed the Serbian nation than all of his work in the field of electricity. He then made his electrical wonders and fascinated the audience in demonstration halls. a selection of Zmaj’s poems, translated them, wrote the forward and attributed them to Robert Underwood Johnson, Tesla’s friend. The book was published twice – in 1897 and 1920 – in New York and London. Jovan Jovanovic Zmaj died on 1st June 1904 and a search of his desk in Sremska Kamenica revealed the texts of telegrams upon which he had written “Uncle Jova died today” and which were signed by his brother Kornel. There were also instruction on how to conduct the funeral and burial: “Order secondclass funeral requirements according to his instructions. I do not need any wreath. Let the burial be quite modest. By no means a tomb. A wooden box 1 metre and 72 centimetres long.” There was also his drawing of a regular cross, inscribed with the title Uncle Dragon. He was buried in Sremska Kamenica in a cemetery overlooking the Danube. The funeral was far from modest, with 15,000 people coming to say their goodbyes to the beloved Zmaj and the funeral service being held by as many as 34 priests, of which eight were Catholic. There were 12 speakers. Janko Veselinović did not speak, but more than a few of the speakers elicited tears when Zmaj’s coffin was lowered down under the earth that he had previously kissed. Thus the collective memory had lost a man, doctor, Zmaj, poet. JOVO ANĐIĆ The author thanks the Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences for use of material from the Archives, and Phototeque, Matica Srpska for the use of the portrait, the work of Uroš Predić and the Gallery of Matica Srpska for the use of a Zmaj portrait, the work of Novak Radonić Young Zmaj, oil on canvas, by Novak Radonić, 1854

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ČOVEK KOJI JE LEČIO PESMOM Naš jezik je postao mnogo lepši kad je Zmajova progovorio i propevao. Imali smo sreće, imali smo Zmajovu, koji je mislio i pevao lako, pametno i vedro. Još traje taj veliki i plavi dan koji je otvorio Zmajova svojim pesmama –- zapisao je jedan od Zmaj Jovinih najboljih učenika Duško Radović

Jovan Jovanović, around 1860

ovan Jovanović Zmaj je naš najpopularniji pesnik, rodonačelnik dečje poezije. Pisali su pesme za decu i drugi pisci, pre njega, ali su tek Zmajevi stihovi postali deo kolektivnog sećanja, poput prave himne prirodi i životu – „Ala je lep ovaj svet“ ili generacijama poznate poduke – „Pre i posle jela treba ruke prati“... U našem sećanju su i drugi Zmajevi stihovi a da se gotovo zaboravlja da im je on autor. Većina ih je dobro poznata i smatraju se starim gradskim pesmama i neizostavnim delom boemske atmosfere: „Tiho noći moje zlato spava“, „Kod ovako divne noći“, „Nebo je tako vedro“, „Jesen stiže, dunjo moja“,„Jedna cura mala“…

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ISKUŠENJA PO JOVANU Jovan je dobio ime po dedi, čiji se otac Kosta, poreklom Cincarin, doselio u Novi Sad iz Makedonije. To što se rodio i proveo mladost u Novom Sadu, koji je važio za kulturno središte svih Srba, nije bilo bez uticaja na njegov život. Mađarska buna 1848. godine zatekla ga je kao petnaestogodišnjeg gimnazijalca u krugu porodice. Tek su boravak u Beču i godine provedene na studijima pravnih nauka doprinele njegovom političkom i životnom sazrevanju. Tokom skoro sedmogodišnjeg boravka stekao je uzore: pesničkog – Branka Radičevića, političkog – Svetozara Miletića i doživotnog prijatelja – Đuru Jakšića. Studije prava mu nisu najbolje išle, ali je zato sve uspešniji kao pesnik i prevodilac. U Novi Sad vraća se hvaljen „kao jedan od najboljih novijih srpskih pesnika“, ali prava, po svemu sudeći, nije završio. Ipak je dobio dobro mesto aktuara u gradskoj vlasti, u kojoj je Svetozar Miletić bio gradonačelnik. Godina 1861. značajna je za njegov život jer je doneo odluku da podnese ostavku i pokrene književni list „Javor“, ali je još značajnija po tome što je upoznao Eufrosinu, Ružu Ličanin. Ona će mu naredne godine postati žena. Taj srećni period života ovekovečio je pesmama koje je objavljivao u „Javoru“, koje su bile svojevrsni lirski dnevnik nazvan „Đulići“, po Ruži, đulu. Odatle životopis Jovana Jovanovića počinje da liči na starozavetnu knjigu o Jovu. Poput novovremenog Jova, kao da ga sudbina iskušava, oduzimajući mu ono što mu je najvrednije, jedno po jedno dete, koje se razboleva i umire. Umiru Mirko, Sava, Jug, Tijana, a potom i voljena žena Ruža. Kada se čini da sudbina ne može biti okrutnija, oduzima mu i Smiljku, ćerku mezimicu. O Smiljki se starala njegova dugogodišnja domaćica, udovica Marija Kostić. I kada je Zmaj ponovo preuzeo ulogu roditelja, očuha deci svoje domaćice, i dve poćerke Maca i Anka umrle su pre navršene tridesete godine, samo nekoliko godina pre njegove smrti. Pesnik je bio svestan iskušenja kojima je izložen, pa tako u jednoj pesmi opisuje san o susretu sa Bogom, koji mu kaže da poštuje svoje jade i bol i vraća ga ljudima sa porukom „Bol neka vas diže, nek vas ne obara“. U drugom snu čuje glas prerano umrle dece, koja mu poručuju: „Gde god je Srpče koje, ljubi ga radi nas“. Tada se još više okrenuo svoj srpskoj deci. Nemerljivi lični gubitak umanjuje jedino to što je naša, pa čak i poezija u svetskim okvirima, dobila neprocenjivu vrednost pojedinim delovima lirskih dnevnika njegove patnje „Đulići uveoci“ i delovima „Đulića“. U „Đulićima uveocima“ na jednom mestu napisao je: „Blago onom koji ume da bez reči bol izrazi“, a na drugom mestu „od muke se pesme viju“.

Memorial plaque, Knez Miloša Street No1 PESNIK POSTAJE LEKAR I ZMAJ Na početku najsrećnijeg doba života 1863. godine Jovan Jovanović je dobio nameštenje upravnika Zadužbine Save Tekelije – „Tekelijanum“ u Pešti. Tokom sedmogodišnjeg boravka završio je medicinu i u Novi Sad se vratio kao lekar. Vratio se i sa novim nadimkom Zmaj, izvedenim iz imena lista koji je pokrenuo 1864. godine. List se zvao „3. maj“ po datumu održavanja Majske skupštine u Sremskim Karlovcima 1848. godine, kada su postavljeni zahtevi za autonomiju u odnosu na Austriju. Posle povratka u Novi Sad, Zmaj je otvorio prvu ordinaciju, a potom prešao u Pančevo, gde mu je nakon dve godine umrla žena Ruža, kojoj ni on kao lekar nije mogao da spase život. Zmaj se tokom svog sedam decenija dugog života čak pet decenija bavio književnim radom, a četiri decenije bio je urednik svojih ili tuđih listova. Ako se tome doda i posao lekara i drugi poslovi, poput dramaturga Narodnog pozorišta tokom prvog boravka u Beogradu, jasno je da je reč o čoveku izuzetne posvećenosti, energije i radne discipline. Pisanju se posvećivao svakodnevno i ostavio iza sebe obimno delo. Toliko da su se u njegovom omiljenom listu „Neven“, najboljem listu za decu kod nas, još godinama posle smrti pojavljivali njegovi prilozi. I prevodio je, a njegovi su prevodi neretko bili bolji od originala. Kritičari smatraju da je njegova politička poezija podignuta na visok, do danas gotovo neprevaziđeni nivo. TESLIN POLJUBAC Svetskom slavom ovenčani Nikola Tesla voleo je Zmajevu poeziju. Prilikom njegove jedine posete Beogradu 1892. godine, Zmaj je tokom svečane večere pročitao svoju pesmu „Pozdrav Nikoli Tesli pri dolasku mu u Beograd“. U štampi je zabeleženo da je pesnik, vidno potresen, jedva pročitao pesmu do kraja, a da je Tesla, i sam duboko potresen, tokom čitanja pesme ustao, prihvatio Zmajevu ruku i poljubio je. Mnogi od prisutnih su, posmatrajući taj prizor, zaplakali. Odgovarajući na te stihove, Tesla se setio jednog noćnog eksperimenta, beskrajne radosti i trenutaka ekstaze kada je ogled konačno uspeo. Sličnu je radost osetio kad je čuo pozdrav „od čovjeka koji je jedini u Srpstvu, koga toliko štujem i cijenim, i čije sam pjesme u dalekoj tuđini čitao, ljubio ih i suzama zalijevao...“ Svetska izložba u Čikagu 1893. godine postigla je senzacionalan uspeh primenom Teslinih patenata, a sam Tesla je, u fraku sa belom kravatom, u demonstracionim salama prikazivao električna čuda i opčinjavao publiku. Električne cevi i lampe oblikovane u staklu sijale su da odaju poštu velikim naučnicima Helmholcu, Faradeju, Maksvelu, Henriju i Frenkinu, a među njima nalazilo se i ime slavnog srpskog pesnika Jovana Jovanovića Zmaja. Naredne

godine Tesla je objavio tekst „Zmaj Jovan Jovanović – najveći srpski pesnik današnjice“, želeći da predstavi američkoj javnosti Zmajevo delo. U jednom pismu svom ujaku taj je svoj članak ocenio većim doprinosom Srpstvu nego sav svoj rad na polju elektriciteta. Potom je napravio izbor Zmajevih pesama, preveo ih i napisao predgovor, a prepevao ih je Robert Andervud Džonson, Teslin prijatelj. Ta knjiga objavljena je u dva navrata – 1897. i 1920. godine u Njujorku i Londonu. Kada je 1. juna 1904. godine umro Jovan Jovanović Zmaj, u njegovom stolu u Sremskoj Kamenici pronađeni su tekstovi telegrama koje je ispisao – „Čika Jova danas umro“, a na koje je potpisao svog brata Kornela. Tu je bilo i uputstvo kako da ga sahrane i ukopaju: „Naručite pogrebne potrebe druge klase po njegovoj naredbi. Ne trebam nijednog venca. Pogreb sasvim skroman. Nipošto grobnicu. Drven sanduk 1 metar i 72 santimetra dugačak.“ Bio je tu i njegov crtež obične krstače, na kojoj je bilo ispisano Čika Zmajova. Sahranjen je u Sremskoj Kamenici, na groblju sa pogledom na Dunav. Pogreb je bio daleko od skromnog, petnaestak hiljada ljudi došlo je da se oprosti od voljenog Zmaja, a opelo su držala čak 34 sveštenika, od kojih je osam bilo katoličkih. Bilo je 12 govornika. Janko Veselinović nije govorio, ali je više nego mnogi govornici izmamio suza kada je na Zmajev kovčeg spustio grumen zemlje koji je prethodno poljubio. Tako je u kolektivno sećanje otišao čovek, lekar, Zmaj, pesnik. JOVO ANĐIĆ Autor zahvaljuje Srpskoj akademiji nauka i umetnosti za korišćenje materijala iz Arhiva i Fototeke, Matici srpskoj za korišćenje portreta, rad Uroša Predića i Galeriji Matice srpske za korišćenje Zmajevog portreta, rad Novaka Radonića

An illustration for children’s magazine ‘’Neven’’

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THE BLUE PORTRAIT One of the veiled secrets of the story of Tesla was revealed through the exhibition ‘’Tesla – the Blue Portrait’’ which opened in May at the Nikola Tesla Museum during the ‘’Night of the Museums’’. This secret was linked to Tesla’s famous ‘’Blue Portrait’’.

ven during his lifetime Nikola Tesla aroused great public interest. Contributing to this to some extent was his somewhat unusual lifestyle. After his death the mystery grew, because many secrets remained hidden among the many documents and manuscripts of his legacy that

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were moved from the United States to the Belgrade museum that bears his name. Many of his predictions have become reality over recent decades, only further increasing the level of curiosity about the secrets of this genius, visionary and great inventor. With an introduction like this, one should note

that the mystery surrounding the famous Blue Portrait was not caused by Tesla himself, but rather by an unusual set of circumstances that could easily be the summary of a film scenario about three immigrants linked by an unusual story. If it wasn’t for this story, the citizens of Belgrade

would hardly have heard of painter Vilma LwoffParlaghys, diamond merchant Ludwig Nissen and his birthplace, Husum. The central character of this story, though, is Nikola Tesla and the tale unfolds at the beginning of 1916. War is raging in Europe, while in America, where the story begins, life is still flowing normally. Though he had never done so before, Tesla agreed – urged by his female friend and painter of Hungarian origin, Princess LwoffParlaghys – to pose in her New York studio in early 1916. The portrait was exhibited in her residence on 1st March, while in an article published by the New York Times the following day a journalist wrote that the portrait was made and displayed under a special northern light. As there was no natural light in the painter’s studio, Tesla financed the installation of a light that is most suitable for painters, a cold northern light accomplished by a bright light filtered through blue glass. Ever since that article was published the colour blue has been associated with the mentioned portrait, hence it is called the ‘’Blue Portrait’’. Part of this portrait appeared twice in 1919, albeit as a black and white illustration, in the magazine Electrical Experimenter, then again on the occasion of Tesla’s 75th birthday, 20th July 1931, on the front page of weekly Time – helping the scientist gain international fame. The portrait was last seen at an auction organised after the painter’s death in 1924. It then mysteriously disappeared. UNEXPECTED DISCOVERY Staff at the Museum in Belgrade actually already knew almost everything about this single portrait made during Tesla’s life, for which he posed himself. Tesla had corresponded with the princess in English and German from 1913 to 1922. Part of their correspondences related to the making of the portrait and the preparing of its public presentation. There were also other documents confirming Tesla’s financing of the studio lighting and decoration of the princess’s residence, including a check for $172.50 – a considerable amount at a time when Tesla was in great financial crisis. Nearly three weeks after the exhibition he was officially summoned for failing to pay his taxes. Time passed and as the fate of the portrait was unknown so the mystery grew. Then, unexpectedly, as if Tesla himself had intervened, it began to be revealed electronically. In May 2007 German art historian Dr Cornelius Schtekner sent an email

to the director of Nikola Tesla Museum, Vladimir Jelenkovic, asking whether he was interested in a portrait of Nikola Tesla and the authoress that made it. Initially suspicious, Jelenkovic soon realised that he was on the verge of unravelling this long-awaited mystery. The famous Blue Portrait had spent the entire time in Husum, a small coastal town in the north-west of the northernmost German federal state of Schleswig-Holstein. While preparing for the opening of the restored Nordsee Museum in 2007, 70 years after its opening, during a detailed examination of the museum’s holdings, the careful eye of Dr Schtekner did not miss the portrait

of the left profile of a man with a moustache. He recognised the famous scientist and found that the so-called Portrait of a Man was actually the famous Blue Portrait that had been sought for so long. After that it was easy to connect all the parts of the story. The museum housed in the building of New York diamond merchant Ludwig Nissen, who had bequeathed the property to his hometown as an endowment. At a 1924 auction Nissen bought a great number of the paintings of Princess LwoffParlaghys. The portrait was exhibited for the first time in more than 90 years at the Nordsee Museum from 29th March to 14th June 2009, as part of an exhibition entitled “Myth, Power, and the Princess Painter”. It turned out that the portrait is not domi-

nated by blue tones, as its name suggests. THE PRINCESS AND TESLA An interesting exhibition, ‘’Tesla – the Blue Portrait’’, was an opportunity for our audience to see a copy of the portrait that is faithful to the original. The whole story was supplemented by complete archival material kept in the Nikola Tesla Museum and related to its development, as well as parts of correspondences between the painter and her famous model. A collection of the paintings of Princess Lwoff-Parlaghys, which are kept in Husum, are also presented. The princess herself was also a very interesting person. This extravagant aristocratic woman was a very successful portrait painter, crowned with two awards at the 1893 World Exhibition in Chicago for her self-portrait and the portrait of Hungarian revolutionary Lajos Kossuth. Her assertiveness and the title of princess apparently opened many doors and her fame subsequently grew. She painted portraits of many kings and important people, including German Emperor Wilhelm II, English King Edward VII, Serbian King Petar I, U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt, German Chancellor Otto von Bismarck and many others. However, she only regained her fame posthumously with Tesla’s Blue Portrait. A large research project, crowned with this exhibition, was entrusted to art historian Dragana Maskareli. With the discovery of the Blue Portrait and its exhibition, only one chapter of research related to Nikola Tesla has been finalised. This story is claimed by director Jelenković of the Nikola Tesla Museum, who is hoping for other discoveries related to Tesla. One of them is the discovery of a soundtrack with the voice of Nikola Tesla: - Probably in a tone recording or a film archive, at least in a fragment of a well-known event from Tesla’s time, where his voice is recorded – hidden from the public for decades. Jelenković believes it is almost impossible that not a single photograph was taken during Tesla’s only visit to Belgrade in 1892 and he is sure that those photographic images will probably appear somewhere, though nobody can accurately predict when that will be. When it comes to dealing with the life and works of this great scientist, there is no room for impatience. Jovo Anđić Special Thanks to Nikola Tesla Museum

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Credit: student.britannica.com

PLAVI PORTRET

Jedan od velova tajni sa priče o Tesli otkriven je izložbom „Tesla – Plavi portret“, koja je priređena u maju u Muzeju Nikole Tesle tokom Noći muzeja. Bila je to tajna o čuvenom Teslinom „Plavom portretu“.

oš za života Nikola Tesla je pobuđivao veliko interesovanje javnosti. Tome su donekle doprinele i njegove pomalo neobične životne navike. Posle njegove smrti misterija je narasla, jer je za mnoge ostala tajna šta je sve skriveno među mnogobrojnim dokumentima i rukopisima u zaostavštini koja je iz Amerike preseljena u Beograd, u muzej koji nosi njegovo ime. Mnoga

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Teslina proročanstva tokom poslednjih decenija postala su stvarnost, što je dodatno pojačalo radoznalost o tajnama tog genija, vizionara i velikog pronalazača. Uz ovakav uvod trebalo bi reći i da misteriji oko čuvenog „Plavog portreta“ nije doprineo sam Tesla, već neobičan splet okolnosti, koji bi lako mogao biti siže nekog filmskog scenarija o troje emigranata

koje je povezala neobična priča. Da nije te priče, teško da bi Beograđani ikada saznali za slikarku Vilmu Ljvov- Parlagi, trgovca dijamantima Ludviga Nisena i njegovo rodno mesto Usum. Centralna ličnost te priče je Nikola Tesla, a ona se dešava početkom 1916. godine. U Evropi је besneо rat, а u Americi, u kojoj priča započinje, život još teče normalno. Iako to nikad ranije nije činio, na nago-

vor svoje prijateljice slikarke mađarskog porekla princeze Ljvov-Parlag, Tesla je pristao da početkom 1916. godine pozira u njenom ateljeu u Njujorku. Portret je bio izložen u njenoj rezidenciji 1. marta, a u članku u „Njujork tajmsu“, objavljenom narednog dana, novinar piše da je portret nastao i bio izložen pod specijalnim severnim svetlom. Kako u slikarkinom ateljeu nije bio prirodnog svetla, Tesla je finansirao ugradnju svetla koje je slikarima najpogodnije za rad, severnog hladnog, što je postignuto tako što je jaka svetlost filtrirana kroz plavo staklo. Od tog teksta za pomenuti portret vezuje se plava boja, pa je on nazvan „Plavi portret“. Deo tog portreta pojavio se dva puta, ali kao crno-bela ilustracija, 1919. godine u časopisu „Elektrikal eksperimenter“, a potom povodom Teslinog 75. rođendana, 20. jula 1931. godine, na naslovnoj strani nedeljnika „Tajm“, što mu je donelo svetsku slavu. Portret je poslednji put viđen na aukciji koja je organizovana posle slikarkine smrti 1924. godine. Potom je misteriozno nestao.

zadužbinu. Na aukciji 1924. godine Nisen je otkupio veći broj slika princeze Ljvov-Parlagi. Prvi put posle više od 90 godina portret je izložen u Nordze muzeju, od 29. marta do 14. juna 2009. godine na izložbi „Mit, moć i princeza slikar“. Ispostavilo se da portretom ne dominira plavi kolorit, kako je njegov naziv sugerisao.

PRINCEZA I TESLA zanimljiva izložba „Tesla – Plavi portret“ bila je prilika da i naša publika prvi put vidi kopiju portreta vernu originalu. Čitava priča upotpunjena je kompletnom arhivskom građom koja se čuva u Muzeju „Nikola Tesla“ vezanom za njegov nastanak i delovima prepiske slikarke i njenog Poster of the Nikola Tesla Museum čuvenog modela. Predstavljen je i deo kolekcije godina nakon njegovog otvaranja, prilikom slika Vilme Ljvov-Parlagi, koja se čuva u Usumu. I detaljnog pregleda muzejskog fundusa, pažljivom sama princeza bila je izuzetno zanimljiva ličnost. oku gospodina Šteknera nije promakao portret Ekstravagantna aristrokratkinja bila je vrlo uspešan levog poluprofila muškarca sa brkovima. Prepoznao portretista, ovenčana sa čak dve nagrade na Svetskoj je u njemu čuvenog naučnika i ustanovio da je izložbi u Čikagu, 1893. godine, za autoportret i „Portret muškarca“ zapravo čuveni „Plavi portret“, portret mađarskog revolucionara Lajoša Košuta. IZNENADNO OTKRIĆE Prodornost i titula princeze očigledno U samom Muzeju u Beogradu već su joj otvarale mnoga vrata, a slava odavno su znali gotovo sve o tom se potom širila. Portretisala je mnoge jedinom portretu koji je načinjen kraljeve i značajne ljude, među njima za Teslinog života i za koji je lično nemačkog cara Vilhelma II, engleskog pozirao. Postojala je prepiska koju kralja Edvarda VII, srpskog kralja Petra je Tesla vodio sa princezom na I Karađorđevića, američkog predsedengleskom i nemačkom jeziku od nika Teodora Ruzvelta, nemačkog 1913. do 1922. godine. Jedan njen kancelara Bizmarka i mnoge druge. deo odnosio se na izradu portreta Ipak u žižu interesovanja vratio ju je Copyright © - Nikola Tesla Museum, a cheque Nikola Tesla - S. Biancardi Inc. i pripremu njegovog predstavljanja Teslin „Plavi portret“. Veliki istraživački javnosti. Bili su tu i drugi dokumenti koji su uka- za kojim se tako dugo tragalo. Posle toga bilo je posao krunisan tom izložbom bio je poveren zivali na Teslino finansiranje osvetljenja u ateljeu lako povezati sve delove priče. Muzej je smešten istoričarki umetnosti Dragani Maskareli. i uređenja princezine rezidencije, među njima i u kući njujorškog trgovca dijamantima Ludviga Pronalaskom „Plavog portreta“ i njegovim ček na 172,50 dolara. Bio je to priličan iznos u Nisena, koju je svom rodnom mestu ostavio kao izlaganjem završeno je tek jedno poglavlje u času kada je Tesla bio u velikoj finansijskoj krizi. istraživanjima vezanim za Nikolu Teslu. Ova priča Ni tri nedelje nakon izložbe morao je zvanično da navodi direktora Muzeja Vladimira Jelenkovića da odgovara zbog toga što nije platio porez. se nada i drugim otkrićima o Tesli. Jedno od njih Vreme je prolazilo, a kako se nije znala sudbina je pronalaženje tonskog zapisa glasa Nikole Tesle: portreta – misterija je rasla. Onda je iznenada, „Verovatno u nekom tonskom ili filmskom arhivu, kao da je sam Tesla umešao prste, njeno odgonbar na deliću snimka nekog poznatog događaja etanje počelo elektronskim putem. Nemački iz Teslinog vremena, kome je i sam prisustvovao, istoričar umetnosti dr Kornelijus Štekner se u maju postoji i njegov glas – zabeležen, decenijama 2007. godine obratio elektronskim pismom direkskrivan od javnosti.“ Jelenković smatra da je gototoru Muzeja „Nikola Tesla“ Vladimiru Jelenkoviću vo nemoguće da prilikom jedine Tesline posete pitanjem da li je zainteresovan za podatke o porBeogradu, 1892. godine, nije načinjen baš nijetretu Nikole Tesle i o autorki koja ga je načinila. dan fotografski snimak, i veruje da će se negde Ispočetka nepoverljiv, Jelenković je ubrzo shvatio pojaviti fotografije sa tog događaja. Kada, na to da je na pragu dugoočekivanog odgonetanja misniko ne može tačno odgovoriti. Kada je u pitanterije. Čuveni „Plavi portret“ nalazio se sve vreme ju bavljenje životom i delom velikog naučnika, u Usumu, malom primorskom mestu na severonestrpljenju mesta nema. zapadu najsevernije nemačke federalne države Jovo Anđić Šlezvig-Holštajn. Tokom priprema za otvaranje Zahvaljujemo se Muzeju Nikola Tesla obnovljenog Nordze muzeja, 2007. godine, 70 Poster from the exhibition in Husum, 2009 BelGuest Proleće | SPring 2011

B E LG R A D E – 5 0 Y E A R S E A R L I E R

Representative of Mali, Modibo Keïta

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Representative of Ceylon, Sirimavo Bandaranaike

nown in jargon as the Belgrade, or the First, Conference of the NonAligned Movement, it was held from 1st to 6th September 1961, in Belgrade - as the name suggests. The movement itself was characterised by the collective efforts of member states to establish a new system of international political and economic relations, which would be deprived of domination, exploitation and inequality. At that time Yugoslavia, led by Josip Broz Tito, enjoyed an enviable reputation in the Afro-Asian world. With its photo exhibition, The First Non-Aligned Movement Summit in Belgrade, 1961, which opened during the Night of Museums, Odbrana Media Centre presented a selection of its photographic archive to symbolically mark the 50th anniversary of this important international event. The author of the exhibition concept is Zoran Milovanović, while Anđelija Radović provides literary accompaniment in a complementary catalogue, writing about the Belgrade of the time:

„At the time of the conference Belgrade presented itself in the best light as the host, as its central squares were the stage decorate, with two obelisks as main features, one being erected temporarily at the Marx and Engels Square the foot of base of which was decorated in bas-reliefs of countries participating in the Conference, the other erected on the right bank of the Sava, near today’s Branko’s Bridge, still reminding of the time of the Conference. The Great Hall of the Federal National Assembly, where the plenary sessions of the conference were held was especially adapted to suit the purpose. The backdrop, that is, the whole wall behind the members of the Presidential Committee was covered with the paintings by Peter Lubarda. … It was the largest international meeting in Belgrade, Yugoslavia to have ever been held.” The exhibition is open until 22nd June and has generated great interest among the citizens of Belgrade, tourists and representatives of the diplomatic corps.

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BEOGRAD – 50 GODINA RANIJE

Josip Broz Tito

Representative of India, Jawaharlal Nehru

žargonu poznata kao Beogradska ili Prva konferencija Pokreta nesvrstanih, održana je, kako joj i ime sugeriše u Beogradu, od 1. do 6. septembra 1961. godine. Pokret je obeležilo kolektivno zalaganje država članica da uspostave novi sistem međunarodnih političkih i ekonomskih odnosa, koji će biti lišeni dominacije, eksploatacije i neravnopravnosti. U to vreme Jugoslavija, predvođena Josipom Brozom Titom, uživala je zavidan ugled u afro-azijskom svetu. Izložbom fotografija „Prvi samit Pokreta nesvrstanih u Beogradu, 1961“, otvorenom u Noći muzeja, Medija centar „Odbrana“, predstavljanjem sadržaja svog foto-arhiva, simbolično je obeležio 50 godina od tog značajnog međunarodnog događaja. Autor koncepta izložbe je Zoran Milovanović, a u tekstu kataloga koji prati izložbu Anđelija Radović piše o Beogradu tog vremena:

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Obelisk on Marx and Engels Square

Representative of Egypt, Gamal Abdel Nasser

„Beograd je opravdao ulogu domaćina. Njegovi centralni trgovi u to vreme bili su scenski uređeni. Dominirala su dva obeliska, jedan privremeni na trgu Marksa i Engelsa na čijem podnožju su bili reljefi grbova zemalja učesnica konferencije, a drugi, na desnoj obali Save, kod Brankovog mosta, i danas podseća na to vreme. Velika sala Savezne narodne skupštine, u kojoj su održavane plenarne sednice konferencije, bila je preuređena za te potrebe. Skoro ceo zid, ispred koga je na sednicama sedelo njeno predsedništvo, prekrivala je umetnička slika Petra Lubarde... Bio je to najveći međunarodni skup u Beogradu i Jugoslaviji održan do tada.“ Izložba je otvorena do 22. juna, i izaziva veliko interesovanje kod građana Beograda, turista i predstavnika diplomatskog kora. BelgUeST

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Days of Japan in BelgraDe

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Dani Japana u BeograDu

MELODY OF A CULTURE

MELODIJA JEDNE KULTURE

he Tourist organisation of Belgrade and the serbian-Japanese society, Belgrade-Tokyo, presented Japan to the citizens of Belgrade through a series of interesting and varied programmes in early June. The Days of Japan event took place at a variety of locations. The Tourist information Centre in Knez Mihailova street presented several new books, including titles like Japanese for Beginners, Sumo and Japanese Erotic Prints. an origami workshop brought together representatives of the Tagai student society of serbian-Japanese friendship, while Japanese cuisine was promoted at the Moon sushi Bar restaurant. all of this was accompanied by exhibitions of bonsai, kimonowedding gowns, photography – accompanied by the melodies of traditional Japanese music and a performance by the Barili Choir. Joining this musical event, especially for the occasion, was the wife of the ambassador of Japan in Belgrade, who played the violin. The Vidikovac garden Centre hosted a presentation of Japan’s martial arts, Dragan Milenković’s book was promoted and, alongside a special kind of tea, the sale of Japanese flowers followed.

fesTiVal of CreaTiViTy

fesTiVal KreaTiVnosTi

uristička organizacija Beograda i srpsko-japansko društvo Beograd–Tokio zanimljivim su i raznovrsnim sadržajima, početkom juna, Beograđanima predstavili Japan. Dani Japana održavali su se na različitim lokacijama. u Turističko- informativnom centru u Knez Mihailovoj ulici predstavljeno je nekoliko novih knjiga, poput naslova „Japan za početnike” , „sumo” , „Japanska erotska grafika”. radionica origamiko okupila je predstavnike studentskog društva srpsko-japanskog prijateljstva „Tagai”, dok je u restoranu Moon sushi Bar promovisana japanska kuhinja. sve to pratile su izložbe bonsaia, kimonovenčanica, fotografija – uz zvuke japanske tradicionalne muzike i nastup hora „Barili”, a tom muzičkom hepeningu, specijalno za ovu priliku, pridružila se i supruga ambasadora Japana u Beogradu, koja je svirala na violini. u vidikovačkom garden-centru predstavljene su borilačke veštine Japana, promovisana knjiga Dragana Milenkovića, a uz posebnu vrstu čaja, usledila je i akcijska prodaja japanskog cveća.

MIXER

MIKSER

he Mixer festival of Creativity and innovation is held in late May at the unusual venue of the Žitomlin Warehouse in lower Dorćol. The 14 programme segments presented nearly 1,500 participants active in the fields of design, architecture, environment, new media, visual arts, music, film, education, business and social and political life. This year also saw the presentation of the selection of the best regional design, young Balkan Designers, following their premiere at the largest international design festival in Milan. Many up-andcoming local talents were also given the chance to demonstrate their skills.

estival kreativnosti i inovativnosti – Mikser, održan je krajem maja na neobičnoj lokaciji Žitomlina, na donjem Dorćolu. u okviru 14 programskih celina predstavljeno je blizu 1.500 učesnika aktivnih u domenu dizajna, arhitekture, zaštite životne sredine, novih medija, vizuelnih umetnosti, muzike, filma, obrazovanja, biznisa, društvenog i političkog života. ove godine predstavljena je i selekcija najboljeg regionalnog dizajna, young Balkan Designers, posle premijere na najvećoj međunarodnoj smotri dizajna u Milanu, a priliku da pokažu svoje umeće imali su i mnogi ovdašnji mladi talenti.

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resTauranT – gallery 27

resToran galeriJa 27

ThE OPENING

OTVARANJE

n cooperation with gallery pero, an exhibition of the works of 14 artists, entitled The opening, opened at restaurant 27 in mid May. gallery pero engaged the 14 artists – painters, sculptors and potters – to use non-painting material in their works. This material is cork. This exceptional artistic challenge was accepted by Kolja Milunović, Balša rajčević, Mihailo petković, Dragana stanković, Jasmina pejčić, Viktor Kiš, Kosta Bunuševac, Dejan prendić, ivan gracner, Milan paradinović, Veselin Vukašinović, Tamara Kusovac, Mihailo Tosović and ivan paradinović. following the opening ceremony, sculptor Viktor Kiš made three big bottles from metal during a small performance in front of the audience. The idea for this exhibition stems from the notion that a seemingly prosaic item, such as a cork, hides mysterious contents, including artistic connotations. Wine producers have known the secret link between the quality of wine and the cork for centuries. The cork preserves, protects and hides, but also offers, opens and reveals. on the premises of restaurant 27, these artists have tried to find new meaning in the designing of space by revealing the hidden contents of the cork. as such, the exhibition was named “The opening”. This latest exhibition was preceded by the sixteenth exhibition of unique easter eggs, with which the pero gallery celebrated its 27 years of work, also at restaurant 27. noting the fact that 27 artists exhibited on this occasion, a complete coincidence of two seemingly different but, as experience shows, similar houses, was been rounded up through true artistic experiences.

saradnji sa galerijom „pero“, u „restoranu 27“ sredinom maja otvorena je izložba četrnaest autora sa nazivom „otvaranje“. galerija „pero“ angažovala je četrnaest umetnika, slikara, vajara i keramičara da jedan neslikarski materijal iskoriste u svojim radovima. Taj materijal je pampur, a u nesvakidašnjem umetničkom izazovu oprobali su se Kolja Milunović, Balša rajčević, Mihailo petković, Dragana stanković, Jasmina pejčić, Viktor Kiš, Kosta Bunuševac, Dejan prendić, ivan gracner, Milan paradinović, Veselin Vukašinović, Tamara Kusovac, Mihailo Tosović i ivan paradinović. posle otvaranja svečanosti, vajar Viktor Kiš je tokom malog performansa pred publikom napravio tri velike flaše od metala. ideja za tu izložbu potekla je iz činjenice da jedna naizgled prozaična stvar kao što je čep krije u sebi tajanstvene sadržaje, pa i umetničke konotacije. proizvođači vina vekovima poznaju tajnu vezu između kvaliteta vina i čepa. Čep čuva, zatvara, skriva, ali i nudi, otvara i otkriva. u prostoru„restorana 27“ umetnici su pokušali da, otvorivši skrivene sadržaje onoga što je čep zatvarao, pronađu njegovo novo značenje u oblikovanju prostora. Tako je izložba i nazvana „otvaranje“. inače, ovoj najnovijoj izložbi prethodila je XVi izložba unikatnih uskršnjih jaja, kojom je galerije „pero“, takođe u „restoranu 27“, proslavila 27 godina rada. ako kažemo da je tom prilikom izlagalo 27 umetnika, potpuna podudarnost između dve naizgled različite, a kako pokazuje iskustvo, srodne kuće – pokazana je u istinskom umetničkom doživljaju.

BelgraDe arena

BeograDsKa arena

MUSIC OF ThE SUMMER

MUZIKA LETA

he Belgrade arena kicked off its June concert programme with a performance of one of the most popular and most notorious bands of the second half of the 1980s – The Cult, held on 4th June. By 8th June sting was presented to the Belgrade audience, accompanied by a symphonic orchestra and band, continuing the symphonicity world tour again this summer. Controversial British singer amy Winehouse will launch her much-awaited tour with a concert in serbia at Kalemegdan on 18th June, as part of the Tuborg ultimate summer music series. one of italy’s most celebrated singers, Zucchero, will perform at the Belgrade arena on 19th June. The most talented and bestknown contemporary trumpeter, Chris Botti, will perform at the Belgrade arena on 28th June as part of the arena session stage. in an intimate atmosphere, Chris Botti’s concert will also include the performances of lena Kovačević and the Vasil Hadžimanov Band. Two of the biggest metal bands of all time, Judas priest and Whitesnake, will play the arena on 1st July, while on the 6th the Belgrade audience will witness the performance of guitar legend Carlos santana. another guitarist, slash, will hold his own Belgrade arena concert on 31st July.

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okom juna Beogradska arena započela je svoj program koncertom jednog od najpopularnijih, ali i najosporavanijih sastava druge polovine osamdesetih – The Cult, koji je održan 4. juna. Već 8. juna našoj publici predstavio se sting, u pratnji simfonijskog orkestra i benda, nastavljajući i ovog leta svoju symphonicity svetsku turneju. Kontroverzna britanska pevačica ejmi Vajnhaus (amy Winehouse) svoju dugo očekivanu turneju započeće koncertom u srbiji, 18. juna na Kalemegdanu, u okviru muzičkog serijala Tuborg ultimate summer. Jedan od najslavnijih italijanskih pevača Cukero (Zucchero) održaće koncert u Beogradskoj areni 19. juna. najtalentovaniji i najpoznatiji trubač današnjice Kris Boti održaće koncert u našoj najvećoj hali 28. juna, u okviru scene arena session. u intimnoj atmosferi, na koncertu Krisa Botija nastupiće lena Kovačević i Vasil Hadžimanov bend. Dva najveća metal benda svih vremena Judas priest i Whitesnake sviraju kod nas 1. jula, dok će već 6. jula pred beogradskom publikom nastupiti legenda gitare Karlos santana. Još jedan gitarista, sleš, imaće 31. jula svoj koncert u Beogradskoj areni.

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BeograDsKa neDelJa DiZaJna

CITY AND SOCIETY OF ThE FUTURE

GRAD I DRUŠTVO BUDUĆNOSTI

elgrade Design Week (BDW) again brought together some of the biggest names in the world of the creative industries from around 20 countries in late May. The sixth edition of the accompanying conference, entitled future2, was devoted to european integration, the city and society of the future. This sixth edition of BDW was organised in association with Belgrade’s candidacy for european Capital of Culture 2020 and the city’s student Cultural Centre was selected as the venue for the ceremonial opening. The opening night featured Miodrag ilić’s film smart2, covering last year’s edition of the festival, followed by of designer Dragana ognjenović’s fashion show Let’s cut the Balkans cake and an exhibition of Vienna-based Belgrade designer Dejana Kabiljo, Croatian multidisciplinary artist goran lelas and serbia’s Vladimir Miladinović ‘piki’.

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eogradska nedelja dizajna (BDW) krajem maja je ponovo okupila neka od najvećih imena sveta kreativnih industrija iz dvadesetak zemalja, a konferenciju šestog izdanja, sa temom „Budućnost na kvadrat” (future 2), posvetila je evropskoj integraciji, gradu i društvu budućnosti. Šesto izdanje BDW organizovano je u saradnji sa projektom kandidature Beograda za evropsku prestonicu kulture 2020. godine, a za svečano otvaranje izabran je prostor studentskog kulturnog centra. na otvaranju je predstavljen film „smart2” Miodraga ilića o prošlom izdanju festivala, usledila je modna revija kreatorke Dragane ognjenović „let’s cut the Balkan cake” i izložba dizajnerke Dejane Kabiljo iz Beograda koja radi u Beču, hrvatskog multidisciplinarnog umetnika gorana lelasa i Vladimira Miladinovića pikija iz srbije.

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spring in THe sign of MoMo Kapor

ChARMING ThE CITY

public presentation of the book of recollections about painter and writer Momo Kapor, entitled Kapor the Legend, published under the auspices of his foundation and filled with the emotional memories of his friends, was followed by the unveiling of a memorial statue at ada Ciganlija dedicated to this famous Belgrade artist and great man. The sculpture, depicting a girl being transformed symbolically into a tree, is an adaptation of Kapor’s drawing Daphne. it was unveiled by Belgrade Mayor Dragan Đilas and the famous artist’s widow, ljiljana Kapor. famous film director emir Kusturica became the first recipient of the Momo Kapor award, which is bestowed by the Momčilo Momo Kapor Foundation. The formal award ceremony, held at Belgrade City Hall, saw Kusturica awarded for his book Death is an Unverified Rumour, published by company novosti from Belgrade. a Momo Kapor Award for the best achievement in fine arts will be presented by the foundation next year. a representative exhibition of Momo Kapor’s ‘Belgrade stories’ paintings was opened on 7th May at the gallery of the serbian army. nikola Kusovac’s selection presents 51 paintings to the public covering Momo’s varying views of Belgrade, starting from the idyllic ada Ciganlija, through items from an old Belgrade house and kitchen cabinets, to the streets of Belgrade with hopscotch drawn on pavements, playful merry-go-rounds, etc. a detail from the painting Angel with a mechanical wing is the symbol of this exhibition. Momo Kapor wrote par lui-même in his monograph “Momo” about his angel and his painting: “i still remember a little framed painting from the hallway of the house of my grandmother, with two small children, apparently orphans, holding hands and crossing a slippery log over a rising river while a guardian angel hovers above and protects them. That same angel became my protector too and he,

hovering, has not stopped protecting me for all these years.” Thus Momo once again charmed Belgrade, conquered it, hugged it and let it be what it is. Dragana Marković

SPIRIT OF BELGRADE

Belgrade does not like to appear in pictures. It just hates to pose. It moves. It’s not photogenic and always looks like some other place. From the aerial shots of Belgrade it is possible, as though on the palm, to read its past, present and future. Belgrade’s palm has blisters, it has scars; it possesses the firmness of a friendly grip, the strength of a dangerous fist, the softness of a caress. Its fingers: roads that lead to the big world – those old, imperial, rustic, carriage, automobile, motorway roads: those that cut the sky, writing and leaving behind long white stripes... The line of character: the outlines of the exhumed fortresses of Kalemegdan. The line of life: long and often interrupted by the scars of wars. Here is the line of love: the coast of Ada Huja, War Island, Ada Ciganlija and Mala Ada... The line of exquisite happiness: the flow of its rivers. Belgrade, in fact, is not a city. It is a metaphor, a way of life. Belgrade is in a joke, in some inherent casualness with which one accepts both victories and defeats. Belgrade is everywhere where there is a unit of measurement for style – charm. Momo Kapor, excerpt from the book Magic of Belgrade

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proleće u ZnaKu MoMe Kapora

ŠARMIRANJE GRADA

akon što je javnosti predstavljena knjiga uspomena na slikara i pisca Momu Kapora, „legenda Kapor“, koju su emocijom i sećanjem sačinili njegovi prijatelji, a objavljena je pod pokroviteljstvom njegove zadužbine, na adi Ciganliji otkriveno je spomen obeležje čuvenom Beograđaninu, umetniku i velikanu. skulpturu devojke koja se simbolično pretvara u drvo, izrađenu prema Kaporovom crtežu „Dafne“, otkrili su gradonačelnik Beograda Dragan Đilas i supruga slavnog umetnika ljiljana Kapor. poznati reditelj emir Kusturica prvi je dobitnik nagrade „Momo Kapor“, koju dodeljuje Zadužbina „Momčilo Momo Kapor“. svečanost je održana u skupštini grada Beograda. emir Kusturica je nagrađen za knjigu „smrt je neprovjerena glasina“, u izdanju Kompanije „novosti“ iz Beograda, a sledeće godine će biti dodeljena istoimena nagrada za najbolje ostvarenje u oblasti likovne umetnosti. Već 7. maja u Velikoj galeriji Doma Vojske srbije otvorena je reprezentativna izložba slika Mome Kapora „Beogradske priče“. u izboru nikole Kusovca javnosti je predstavljena 51 slika, sa različitim Mominim viđenjima Beograda, počev od idilične ade Ciganlije, preko predmeta iz starih beogradskih kuća, kredenaca, do beogradskih ulica sa iscrtanim školicama, razigranim ringišpilima...

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Detalj sa slike „anđeo sa mehaničkim krilom“ zaštitni je znak ove izložbe, a o svom anđelu i slikarstvu Kapor je u monografiji „Momo, par lui meme“ zapisao: „ Još se sećam uramljene sličice iz kuće moje bake u predsoblju, na kojoj dvoje male dece, očigledno siročadi, držeći se za ruke, prelazi klizavo brvno iznad nabujale reke dok iznad njih lebdi anđeo koji ih čuva. Taj isti anđeo postao je i moj zaštitnik i on, lebdeći, nije prestao da me štiti sve ove godine. „ Tako je Momo još jednom šarmirao Beograd, osvojio ga, obgrlio i pustio da bude to što jeste. Dragana Marković

DUh BEOGRADA

Beograd ne voli da se slika. Mrzi ga da pozira. Mrda se. Ne ispada lepo na fotografijama, i uvek liči na neko drugo mesto. Iz vazdušnih snimaka Beograda moguće je, baš kao sa dlana, čitati njegovu prošlost, sadašnjost i budućnost. Beograd na svom dlanu ima žuljeve, ima ožiljke, poseduje čvrstinu prijateljskog stiska, snagu opasne pesnice, mekoću milovanja. Njegovi prsti: putevi što vode u beli svet - oni stari, carski, seljački, kolski, automobilski, magistralni: oni što presecaju nebo ispisujući za sobom duge bele pruge... Linija karaktera: obrisi izrovašenih tvrđava na Kalemegdanu. Linija života: duga i često prekidana brazgotinama ratova. Evo i linije ljubavi: to su obala Ade Huje, Ratnog ostrva, Ade Ciganlije i Male ade... Linija izuzetne sreće: tok njegovih reka. Beograd, ustvari, i nije grad. On je metafora, način življenja. Beograd je u nekom vicu, u nekoj urođenoj ležernosti sa kojom se primaju i pobede i porazi. Beograd je svuda gde je jedinica za merenje stila – šarm. Momo Kapor, iz knjige Magija Beograda

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NEW PARK ON AN OLD SITE

One of Belgrade’s most beautiful and important parks has been completely reconstructed. After months of extensive works, Tašmajdan - the new park on an old site – will take its place among the most modern landscaped parks in Europe and worldwide.

he initiative to rebuild this central city park was launched by representatives of the Government of the Republic of Azerbaijan and representatives of the City of Belgrade. This is a donation worth two million euros and it is the practice of the Government of Azerbaijan to donate funds for the reconstruction of parks in friendly countries. Such donations have so far beautified the parks of Bucharest, Istanbul and other European cities. The park now has two new monuments – one

dedicated to the first president of the independent Azerbaijan, Gaidar Aliev (a practice that has also been applied in other parks restored thanks to funding by the Azerbaijani government), and the other monument dedicated to outstanding Serbian writer Milorad Pavić. The monuments were placed on both sides of the central paths of Tašmajdan Park towards Beogradska Street and were both funded by the Government of Azerbaijan. These bronze monuments are about three metres high and

both are works of professor and sculptor Natig Aliyev from Baku. OVERCOMING TIME During the last five months, regardless of weather conditions, all who were engaged on the Tašmajdan project worked hard and were committed to reconstructing the park. All works have been completed. The workers of public company Zelenilo Beograd (Belgrade Greenery), placed another thirty benches and built another playground for children aged

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HARMONY WITH NATURE

At the beginning of the last century, Tašmajdan Park, near Madera restaurant, was the garden of Belgrade bookbinder Selimir Janićijević. Just before leaving for war, Selimir planted a lilac tree to watch over his wife Sofija and their five children. Selimir did not return from the war, but his family and the lilac tree are still there. In memory of this story and the time when Belgrade residents took care more about their environment and lived in harmony with nature, public utility company “Belgrade Greenery” planted three lilac trees on the site. up to seven, at the initiative of the Mayor and due to high citizen demand. - Tašmajdan Park today is different from other Belgrade parks in many ways. It is a green space offering all facilities to modern standards that can be found in any well-maintained green area. Within the park there are two large, modern children’s playgrounds with rubber flooring, outdoor fitness areas with appropriate devices, a fitness path and jogging trail, special park furniture, a musical fountain, an enclosed space where dogs can move freely, a corner for pensioners, information points. The entire park is covered by video surveillance, which not only prevents possible destruction but also significantly increases security. I can say with certainty that Tašmajdan Park and the project to replace the trees of Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra have so far been the greatest challenges asked of Greenery Belgrade, as well as being the most important references for our company

in the future, says director of Greenery Belgrade Radovan Draškić. MUSICAL FOUNTAIN All children’s playgrounds have rubber surfaces which further secure children’s play and they can also be used by children with special needs. The playgrounds are equipped with modern accessories: jungle gyms were placed in the shape of a net, while seesaws, swings and pendulum clocks are in the form of animals. The novelty is a combination of devices with a slide, which cannot be found in our other parks. Children’s park furniture is colourful – in cheerful, pastel colours. The new 500-metre long fitness and jogging trail is made of tartan and there are 17 of the most modern devices for exercise on a particular isolated area with a rubber surface. Athletes and recreation enthusiasts will certainly enjoy this part of the park. There are also six drinking fountains. Some 200 benches were made in the Greenery Belgrade workshop and placed in the park, while citizens will also be able to enjoy 20 deckchairs for relaxation. The central path is built of granite and encircles the flowered lane – while the side paths

FROM THE PARK’S HISTORY

are constructed of behaton. A cascade musical fountain made from granite is set in the central part of the park. The rhythm of jets of water and lighting effects are coordinated to the rhythm of music. Another novelty is an enclosed space suitable for dogs to run free. Here 11 accessories for pets have been set, as well as a separate drinking fountain. A new feature introduced during the reconstruction of Tašmajdan Park’s sanitary facilities is a ramp for persons with special needs. A corner for pensioners has especially been arranged, complete with large chess boards. The city’s oldest citizens have gained a small pavilion that will be visited occasionally by a doctor who will carry out health checks. A specific offer tailored to the needs of tourists is represented by two information points, where all necessary information about Belgrade will be available. Dragana Marković photographs: Danilo PeTernek Reconstruction plans: JKP „Zelenilo Beograd

There was once a major quarry between the streets of Takovska, Ilije Garašanina, Beogradska and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra. This is why the name of this part of Belgrade, now the park, is – Tašmajdan (in Turkish taş means ‘stone’ and maydan means ‘quarry’). Evidence shows that all old Belgrade structures were built using that stone. ••• The remains of Saint Sava were buried at Tašmajdan. His body was brought from Mileševa Monastery to Belgrade by Ahmedbeg Ocuz and his bones were buried by grand vizier Sinan Pasha, on 27th April 1594. ••• During the siege of Belgrade in the autumn of 1806, Karađorđe set his camp there and pitched his tent. The old church of Saint Marko was built on the Tašmajdan plateau in 1835. Its founder was Prince Miloš, who intended to mark the place where, on 30th November 1830, Hatisherif announced publicly the recognition of the political government of Serbia as well as the Berat, by which he himself was recognised as a prince with hereditary rights. The church was demolished during the bombing of Belgrade on 6th April 1941.

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NOVI PARK NA STAROM MESTU

Jedan od najlepših i najznačajnijih beogradskih parkova skoro je potpuno obnovljen. Novi park na starom mestu – Tašmajdan, nakon višemesečnih obimnih radova, zauzeće mesto u samom vrhu najmodernije uređenih parkova u Evropi i svetu.

nicijativu za obnovu centralnog gradskog parka pokrenuli su predstavnici Vlade Republike Azerbejdžan i predstavnici Grada Beograda. Reč je o donaciji vrednoj dva miliona evra, a praksa Vlade Azerbejdžana je da prijateljskim zemljama poklanja sredstva za obnovu parkova. Takve donacije ulepšale su do sada parkove Bukurešta, Istanbula i drugih evropskih gradova. U parku su postavljena dva nova spomenika – jedan prvom predsedniku nezavisnog Azerbejdžana Gajdaru Alijevu (što je inače praksa i u drugim parkovima čiju je obnovu finansirala Azerbejdžanska vlada), a drugi – našem istaknutom književniku Miloradu Paviću. Spomenici su postavljeni sa jedne i druge strane centralne staze Tašmajdanskog parka ka Beogradskoj ulici. Izradu oba spomenika preuzela je Vlada Azerbejdžana. Visoki su oko tri metra, izliveni su u bronzi, a autor oba spomenika je profesor iz Bakua, vajar Natig Alijev.

radili su vredno i predano na obnovi parka. Svi radovi su završeni. Radnicima „Zelenila“ su na inicijativu gradonačelnika , a zbog velikog interesovanja građana, postavili još 30 klupa, i izgradili još jedno dečije igralište, namenjeno deci do sedam godina. - Tašmajdanski park se danas po mnogo čemu

razlikuje od drugih beogradskih parkova. To je zelena površina u kojoj su ponuđeni svi sadržaji koji po savremenim standardima mogu da se nađu na jednoj uređenoj zelenoj površini. U okviru parka nalaze se dva velika, najmodernija dečija igrališta sa gumenom podlogom, fitnes na otvorenom, sa odgovarajućim spravama, trim-staza,

NADVLADAVANJE VREMENA Poslednjih pet meseci, bez obzira na vremenske prilike, svi angažovani oko projekta Tašmajdan

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SKLAD SA PRIRODOM

Početkom prošlog veka u Tašmajdanskom parku, u blizini kafane „Madera“, bila je bašta beogradskog knjigovesca Selimira Janićijevića. Neposredno pred odlazak u rat, Selimir je posadio jorgovan da čuva njegovu ženu Sofiju i njihovo petoro dece. Selimir se nije vratio iz rata, ali su njegova porodica i jorgovan još tu. U znak sećanja na ovu priču, i na vreme kada su Beograđani više vodili računa o svom okruženju i živeli u skladu sa prirodom, JKP „Zelenilo Beograd“ je na tom mestu posadilo tri jorgovana. specijalni parkovski mobilijar, muzička fontana, ograđeni prostor, koji je predviđen za slobodno puštanje pasa, kutak za penzionere, informativni punktovi. Čitav park pokriven je video-nadzorom, što sprečava ne samo eventualna uništavanja već znatno podiže bezbednost. Sa sigurnošću mogu reći da su Tašmajdanski park i projekat zamene drvoreda u Bulevaru kralja Aleksandra do sada najveći izazovi koji su se našli pred „Zelenilom

Beograd“ i predstavljaju najznačajnije reference našeg preduzeća – kaže direktor „Zelenila“ Radovan Draškić. MUZIČKA FONTANA Sva dečja igrališta imaju podlogu od gume, što dodatno obezbeđuje igru, a mogu da ih koriste i deca sa posebnim potrebama. Igrališta su opremljena savremenim rekvizitima, postavljene su penjalice u obliku mreže, klackalice, ljuljaške i njihalice u obliku životinja. Novina je kombinacija sprava sa toboganom, čega inače nema u našim parkovima. Dečiji mobilijari su šareni – veselih, pastelnih boja. Nova trim-staza, u dužini od 500 metara, izvedena je od tartana, a na posebno izdvojenoj površini, čija je podloga guma, postavljeno je 17 najmodernijih sprava za vežbanje. Sportisti i rekreativci svakako će uživati u ovom delu parka. Takođe je izgrađeno šest česama. Dvesta klupa, koje su napravljene u radionici „Zelenila“, postavljeno je u parku, a građani će moći da uživaju i u dvadesetak ležaljki za odmor.

IZ ISTORIJE PARKA

Dragan Đilas and Radovan Draškić in Tašmajdan Park

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Centralna staza izgrađena je od granita i okružuje cvetnu aleju – a pomoćne staze izgrađene su od behatona. U centralnom delu parka nalazi se kaskadna muzička fontana od granita. Ritam vodoskoka i svetlosni efekti usklađuju se sa ritmom muzike. Novina je i ograđeni prostor koji je predviđen za slobodno puštanje pasa, postavljeno je 11 rekvizita za kućne ljubimce, i posebna česma. Novitet koji je uveden prilikom rekonstrukcije sanitarnog objekta u Tašmajdanskom parku jeste i rampa za lica sa posebnim potrebama. Posebno je uređen kutak za penzionere, sa velikim šahovskim poljima. Naši najstariji sugrađani dobili su mali paviljon gde će povremeno dolaziti lekar i kontrolisati njihovo zdravlje. Poseban sadržaj, prilagođen potrebama turista, čine dva informativna punkta, gde će biti dostupne sve potrebne informacije o Beogradu. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ fotografije: DANILO PETERNEK Planovi rekonstrukcije: JKP „Zelenilo Beograd“

Između ulica Takovske, Ilije Garašanina, Beogradske i Bulevara kralja Aleksandra nekada je bio veliki kamenolom. Zbog toga je i naziv ovog dela Beograda, danas parka – Tašmajdan (na turskom taš - kamen, majdan – mesto gde se vadi kamen). Po jednom starom svedočenju, može se slobodno reći da su u Beogradu sva stara zdanja ozidana tim kamenom. ••• Na Tašmajdanu su spaljene mošti Svetog Save, čije je telo iz manastira Mileševe u Beograd doneo Ahmedbeg Oćuz, a kosti spalio veliki vezir Sinan-paša, 27. aprila 1594. godine ••• Za vreme opsade Beograda, u jesen 1806. godine, Karađorđe se tu ulogorio i podigao šator. Na tašmajdanskom platou je 1835. sazidana stara crkva Svetog Marka, čiji je ktitor bio Knez Miloš, s namerom da obeleži mesto na kome je 30. novembra 1830. pročitan hatišerif o priznavanju političke samouprave Srbije i berat kojim je on sam priznat za kneza s naslednim pravom. Srušena je prilikom bombardovanja Beograda, 6. aprila 1941. godine.

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DESIGN, MADE IN SERBIA

The position of designers and the design industry in our country is the result of a complete tangle of economic, organisational and cultural relations. In a situation that sees us traversing social and economic changes, it is clear that establishing cooperation between the creative and business sectors is becoming inevitable. International experience suggests that the development of the creative industries is not the result of elemental market processes, but rather an active role of the government in creating the space for cultural characteristics and values to become visible and recognisable.

lthough design has partially been recognised as a prerequisite for developing the competitiveness of our products, there are still substantial problems in its promotion and valuation. Problems don’t lie in terms of the availability of creative resources, but rather in terms of a lack of synergy between the creative sector and

other economic branches. the prosperity recorded in recent years by some of the most developed countries is a result of changes in relations between creative and economic resources. Indeed, the majority of developed countries realise that the“magic formula”for development in the 21st century is a strategy of establishing a balanced relationship between economic and creative resources.

FURNITURE FAIR IN MILAN this year saw the Serbian Investment and Export Promotion Agency (SIEPA) organise an exhibition of domestic design at Milan’s Design Week for the third time. the exhibition took place within the “fuori Salone” in the tortona Zone, which represents the world’s most visited event in the field

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of creative industries. the goal of this year’s participation was to establish a connection between Serbian designers and Serbian furniture manufacturers for the first time, thereby presenting foreign audiences with a product that is entirely “made in Serbia”. Such joint appearances are aimed at drawing attention to Serbian design and thereby encouraging domestic furniture producers to use as much of that potential as possible in order to find their place on the world stage of furniture design. It is a fact that such a capacity exists. Something precisely like that was achieved with the performance in milan. the interest of customers was incredible. the stand was visited by more than 15,000 people, including a large number of professionals from the furniture design and manufacturing sectors. there were also journalists, as well as a great number of tourists who see this event as one of the most interesting events of the year. there was great interest in a table produced by company Kolarević (designer Andrej mišić), a lamp made by Buck (Kako.ko design studio) and a chair produced by company Eurokancom (Kako. ko design studio), with many wanting to buy

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these products already at the fair. A sofa made by company Atlas (designer Slavoljub Ljubić) and table of company Linea milanović (designer Igor Stupar) were also well received. this club-table can serve as an example of good cooperation between designers and manufacturers, with Linea milanović confirming the inclusion of this club-table in its product catalogue after the exhibition. MAGIC FORMULA FOR DEVELOPMENT the works presented in milan were the result of a competition conducted late last year, which more than 70 designers from Serbia had applied for inclusion in. the jury picking the winners was composed of representatives of companies that made the prototypes: graduate architect vladimir Lovrić (design studio Arhisolar), as well as a SIEPA representative. this was followed by the establishing of collaboration between furniture designers and manufacturers, which resulted in the development of prototypes. there is also a web presentation featuring all of the products exhibited at the stand: www.creativespaceserbia.com. the site offers useful information for all interested designers, but also furniture manufacturers.

SIEPA has already organised two performances of young Serbian designers at milan’s “Salone Satellite” fair, with individual exhibits having achieved great results. the “fuori Salone” is held alongside the world’s largest furniture fair “Salone del mobile” in milan’s famous tortona Zone district. After milan, SIEPA organised an exhibition for the local audience within the context of Belgrade Design Week. the goal was to present other designers, as well as domestic furniture producers, with a new way of cooperating. And, according to inner logic and market laws, the project will only grow from year to year. A new competition will be carried out after the summer, with potential applicants including designers for the design of furniture and products produced to be presented at the 2012 milan fair. the theme of the performance, as has been the case to date, will be industrial design (furniture, lighting, household items, interior decoration etc.). Miloš ćurčin photo: SiePA

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DIZAJN MADE IN SERBIA Položaj dizajnera i industrije dizajna u našoj zemlji posledica je čitavog spleta ekonomskih, organizacionih i kulturnih odnosa. U situaciji kada prolazimo kroz socijalne i ekonomske promene sasvim je jasno da uspostavljanje saradnje između kreativnog i poslovnog sektora postaje neminovnost. Međunarodna iskustva nam govore da razvoj kreativne industrije nije rezultat stihijskih procesa na tržištu, već aktivne uloge države u stvaranju prostora u kome njene kulturne specifičnosti i vrednosti mogu postati vidljive i prepoznatljive.

ako je dizajn delimično prepoznat kao uslov razvoja konkurentnosti naših proizvoda, i dalje postoje bitni problemi u njegovoj promociji i vrednovanju. Problemi se ne nalaze na strani kreativnih snaga već u nedostatku sinergije između kreativnog sektora i ostalih privrednih delatnosti. napredak koji u poslednjih nekoliko godina beleže najrazvijenije zemlje rezultat je promene odnosa između kreativnih snaga i ekonomskih mogućnosti, naime, većina razvijenih zemalja shvata da je „magična formula razvoja“ u 21. veku strategija uspostavljanja balansiranog odnosa između ekonomskih i kreativnih vrednosti. SAJAM NAMEŠTAJA U MILANU Agencija za strana ulaganja i promociju izvoza Srbije (SIEPA) ove godine je po treći put organizovala izložbu domaćeg dizajna na nedelji dizajna u milanu, tačnije u okviru „fuori Salone“ u Zoni tortoni, koji je najposećeniji događaj iz oblasti kreativnih industrija u svetu. cilj ovogodišnjeg nastupa bio je da se prvi put napravi spoj domaćih dizajnera sa srpskim proizvođačima nameštaja i na taj način inostranoj publici predstavi proizvod koji je u potpunosti „made in Serbia“. Želja je da se takvim nastupima skrene pažnja na srpski dizajn i na taj način podstaknu domaći proizvođači nameštaja da što više koriste taj potencijal kako bi pronašli mesto na svetskoj sceni. A činjenica je da kapacitet postoji. Upravo je tako nešto postignuto nastupom u milanu. Zanimanje posetilaca je bilo neverovatno. Štand je posetilo više od 15.000 ljudi, od kojih je veliki broj profesionalaca iz oblasti dizajna i proizvodnje nameštaja. Bilo je tu i novinara, ali i mnogobrojnih turista, koji taj događaj smatraju za jedan od najzanimljivijih tokom godine. Izuzetnu pažnju privukao je sto firme „Kolarević“ (dizajner Andrej mišić), lampu „Bucka“ (Kako.ko dizajn studio), te stolicu „Eurokancoma“ (Kako.ko dizajn

studio). mnogi su poželeli da već na sajmu kupe te proizvode. Sofa koju je napravila kompanija „Atlas“ (dizajner Slavoljub Ljubić), ali i sto firme „Linea“ milanović (dizajner Igor Stupar) izuzetno su primećeni. Upravo taj klub-sto može da posluži kao pravi primer dobre saradnje između dizajnera i proizvođača, jer je „Linea“ nakon izložbe uvrstila sto u svoj katalog proizvoda. MAGIČNA FORMULA RAZVOJA radovi koji su predstavljeni u milanu rezultat su konkursa koji je sproveden krajem prošle godine, a na koji se prijavilo više od 70 dizajnera iz Srbije. Žiri koji je odlučivao o dobitnicima bio je sastavljen od predstavnika firmi koje su izradile prototipove: diplomiranog arhitekte vladimira Lovrića (dizajn studio „Arhisolar“) i predstavnika SIEPA. nakon toga je uspostavljena saradnja između dizajnera i proizvođača nameštaja, koja je rezultirala izradom prototipova. Postoji i web prezentacija, na kojoj su predstavljeni svi proizvodi koji su bili izloženi na štandu: www.creativespaceserbia.com. ona nudi korisnu informaciju svim zainteresovanim diza-

jnerima, ali i proizvođačima nameštaja. SIEPA je već dva puta organizovala nastup mladih dizajnera na milanskom sajmu „Salone Satellite“ na kome su pojedini eksponati ostvarili fantastične rezultate. „fuori Salone“ se održava paralelno sa najvećim svetskim sajmom nameštaja „Salone del mobile“ u poznatom delu milana – Zoni tortoni. nakon milana, SIEPA je organizovala izložbu namenjenu domaćoj publici u okviru Beogradske nedelje dizajna. cilj je bio da i drugi dizajneri i domaći proizvođači nameštaja spoznaju jedan nov način saradnje, a taj projekat će, po unutrašnjoj logici i zakonitostima tržišta, iz godine u godinu – samo rasti. Posle leta biće raspisan i novi konkurs, na koji će moći da se prijave dizajneri za nameštaj, a gotovi proizvodi biće predstavljeni 2012. godine u milanu. tema nastupa će kao i do sada biti industrijski dizajn (nameštaj, rasveta, upotrebni predmeti, elementi enterijera itd.). Miloš ćurčin foto: SiePA

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I BIKE (AND LIKE) BELGRADE As part of the ever-increasing offer of Belgrade sightseeing, from this spring you can familiarise yourself with the city by riding a bike! This creative tourism industry innovation was gifted to Belgrade by Netherlands native Ralph van der Zijden, an avid cyclist, professional sociologist, expert on international relations and, above all, lover of Belgrade’s hidden places.

alph’s vision of what is interesting in Belgrade differs greatly from the standard tourist routes. his itinerary includes locations that cannot be found in any offer, such as New Belgrade’s Genex Tower, which is considered a miracle of the architecture of the socialist period, or hotel yugoslavia, another extraordinary building from the time of Marshal tito. the socialist heritage that the city’s locals consider less valuable is extremely interesting for visitors to Belgrade. ralph’s itinerary includes shipwrecks, quiet places where ordinary people come together - like the radecki club on the Danube, the city’s alternative cultural centre Grad... ralph’s story has its own background story. while working for the Dutch Ngo sector in the field of education, he often spent time in Zagreb, Belgrade and sarajevo. he says that he fell in love with Belgrade back then: “i will never forget that feeling. i had an explosion of butterflies in my stomach when i saw the panorama of Belgrade

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fortress from Branko’s Bridge. even then i loved the local people and the nonstop happenings of the city,” says ralph. it is well known that Netherlanders are lovers of cycling and this applies to the van der Zijden family in particular – ralph’s mother leads a sightseeing cycling tour of the hague and a bike hire centre. “i decided to relocate to Belgrade last year. At the time i didn’t know exactly what i would do for a living. i just knew i wanted to be an entrepreneur. one of my ideas was the bicycle tour, but i also had countless other ideas. i gained support for the cycling tours project from the tourist organisation of Belgrade and formed a good partnership contract with Marconi bike. i trained guides and created a website with a local web designer.” the ibikeBelgrade programme was officially launched on 4th June, but the tour started working with the first sunny days of spring. “we have already had a group of Americans, french,

Dutch... we presented them with a potted story of Belgrade, without too many burdening details related to dates and years. of course, all the guides know the answers to such questions, but here we are talking about modern times and recent history - because that is what people are interested in. everybody adored the part of the tour around Ada ciganlija, which is truly the pearl of the city. one group of young Dutch boys were particularly fond of the girls who were rollerblading around Ada. we pointed out groups the sunken ships – and i have to admit that they liked that a lot, because they had never before seen sunken ships that stick out of the river!” ralph van der Zijden and the entire ibikeBelgrade team invite you to explore the city from a different perspective. the meeting place for the tour is in front of the city Library on Knez Mihailova street every day at 2p.m. BelgueSt

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I BIKE (AND LIKE) BELGRADE U sve većoj ponudi razgledanja Beograda, od ovog proleća možete upoznati grad vozeći bicikl! Tu kreativnu inovaciju u turističkoj ponudi Beogradu je poklonio Holanđanin Ralf van der Zijden, strastveni biciklista, po profesiji sociolog i stručnjak za međunarodne odnose, a pre svega zaljubljenik u skrivena mesta Beograda.

alfovo viđenje onoga što je u Beogradu zanimljivo veoma se razlikuje od standardnih turističkih maršruta. U njegovom itinereru nalaze se mesta kojih nema ni u jednoj ponudi – poput geneksove kule na Novom Beogradu, koju smatra čudom arhitekture socijalističkog razdoblja, hotela „Jugoslavija“, još jednog impozantnog zdanja iz vremena maršala tita. socijalističko nasleđe koje žitelji grada smatraju za manje vredno i te kako zanima goste Beograda. U ralfovom itinereru nalaze se i potopljeni brodovi, tiha mesta na kojima se okupljaju obični ljudi – poput Kluba „radecki“ na obali Dunava, alternativnog kulturnog centra „grad“... ralfova beogradska priča ima svoju predistoriju. radeći za holandski nevladin sektor u oblasti obrazovanja, često je boravio u Zagrebu, Beogradu i sarajevu. Kaže da je Beograd zavoleo još tada: „Nikada neću zaboraviti to osećanje. imao sam eksploziju leptirića u stomaku kada sam s Brankovog mosta ugledao panoramu Beogradske

tvrđave. Zavoleo sam još tada ovdašnje ljude i ta neprestana dešavanja u gradu.“ Poznato je da su holanđani zaljubljenici u biciklizam, a porodica Van der Zijden, naročito raflova majka, vodi biciklističku turu razgledanja haga i centar za iznajmljivanje bicikala. „odlučio sam da se doselim u Beograd prošle godine. tada nisam znao čime ću se tačno baviti, znao sam samo da želim da budem preduzetnik. Jedna od ideja bila je i biciklistička tura, ali zamisli sam imao bezbroj. Za projekat biciklističke ture dobio sam podršku turističke organizacije Beograda, sklopio dobar partnerski ugovor sa firmom „Markoni bike“, obučio sam vodiče, sa ovdašnjim dizajnerom napravio sajt na internetu.“ Program ibikeBelgrade zvanično je otvoren 4. juna, ali je tura počela s radom s prvim lepim danima proleća. „imali smo već više grupa Amerikanaca, francuza, holanđana... Predstavili smo im Beograd na pitak način, bez mnogo detalja vezanih za datume i godine. Naravno, svi vodiči znaju odgov-

ore i na takva pitanja, ali mi pričamo o današnjem trenutku i novijoj istoriji – jer to ljude zanima. svi obožavaju deo ture po Adi ciganliji, to je zaista biser grada. Jednoj grupi mlađih holanđana mnogo su se dopale devojke koje voze rolere po Adi. Pokazivali smo im i potopljene brodove – i moram priznati da im se to mnogo dopalo, jer nikada pre nisu videli olupinu broda koja viri iz reke!“ ralf van der Zijden i čitava ekipa ibikeBelgrade poziva vas da upoznate grad iz jedne drugačije perspektive. Mesto susreta je Knez Mihailova ulica, ispred Biblioteke grada, svaki dan u 14 sati. BelgueSt

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elcome to Belgrade! On these pages we are presenting you with the regular programme of tourist sightseeing in Belgrade and its surroundings. You can get to know the city by walking, riding tour buses, minibuses or the tram system. The city rivers’ sightseeing programme represents a special tourist offer. From these offers you can opt for special cultural-historical tours and programmes that will acquaint you with interesting segments of the tradition of Belgrade. The offer also includes attractive balloon flights, as well as day trips and excursions in the vicinity of Belgrade. Visit the website and information centres of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade for more detailed information and to make reservations. www.tob.co.rs 52

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obrodošli u Beograd! Na ovim stranicama predstavljamo vam redovne programe turističkih razgledanja Beograda i njegove okoline. Grad možete upoznati šetajući, vozeći se turističkim autobisima, minibusevima ili tramvajem. Posebnu ponudu čini program razgedanja grada s reka. Iz ove ponude možete odabrati specijalne kulturnoistorijske ture i programe koji će vas upoznati s zanimljivim segmentima tradicije Beograda. U ponudi su i atraktivni letovi balonima, kao i jednodnevni ture i izleti u blizni Beograda. Posetite internet stranice Turističke organizacije Beograda i Informativne centre za detaljne informacije i rezervacije. www.tob.co.rs

TAKING A STROLL THROUGH BELGRADE ŠETNJE BE0GRADOM

Duration: 90 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

STARI ZEMUN

Zemun svojim kulturno-istorijskim spomenicima i tradicionalnom gostoljubivošću prima mnogobrojne posetioce koji uživaju u nacionalnoj kuhinji i prisnoj atmosferi njegovih restorana. Maršruta: Magistratski trg, Gospodska ulica, Opera Medlenianum,Livnica Pantelic, Karamatina (Karamatina kuća), Gardoš, Sinđelićeva, Njegoševa (Crkva Svetog Nikole), Zemunski Kej, Stara kapetanija i Stara carinarnica. Polazak: svake subote u 18h, ispred zgrade Starog magistrata Jezik: srpski-engleski Trajanje: 90 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 i TIC Zemun, tel. 2192 093

A STROLL THROUGH DOWNTOWN BELGRADE AND BELGRADE FORTRESS

Through this tour you will get to know Downtown, Belgrade Fortress and the largest green belt in Belgrade, Kalemegdan Park. Route: Palace Albanija, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova St., Kralja Petra I St. (National Bank of Serbia, Cafe ”?” – Znak pitanja, Cathedral Church, Patriarchal Court, Residence of Princess Ljubica, Pariska St., Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade Fortress (Upper Town), Artistic Pavilion Cvijeta Zuzorić. Departure: each Saturday in front of Palace Albanija (minimum 5 persons) Language: Serbian (at 11:00) and English (at 13:00) Duration: 120 minute Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

ŠETNJA KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

AUDIO GUIDE THROUGH BELGRADE FORTRESS

Na ovoj turi upoznaćete uže jezgro grada, Beogradsku tvrđavu i najveći zeleni pojas Beograda - park Kalemegdan. Maršruta : Palata Albanija, Trg Republike, Knez Mihailova, Ulica kralja Petra (Narodna banka Srbije, Kafana ?), Saborna crkva, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak kneginje Ljubice, Pariska ulica, park Kalemegdan, Beogradska tvrđava (Gornji grad), umetnički paviljon Cvijeta Zuzorić. Polazak: svake subote ispred Palate Albanija Jezik: srpki (u 11h) i engleski (u 13h) Trajanje: 120 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

Since early spring 2011, you have been able to meet the Belgrade Fortress on your own, with the help of an audio guide. The guide is available in several languages – Serbian, English, French, Russian, Spanish and German. During a 90 minute-long story, visitors can visit 39 spots within the Belgrade Fortress. Along with the audio device, the visitor will also get a map where all the commented points are marked. The audio guide may be leased in the outer part of Stambol Gate (near the basketball fields of Red Star and Partizan) at a price of 300 dinars, every day from 10.00 am to 6.00 pm. You need a personal ID document to for the lease, and there are also devices that are adjusted for the persons with damaged hearing.

OLD ZEMUN

Od početka proleća 2011. godine Beogradsku tvrđavu možete upoznati samostalno uz pomoć audio vodiča. Vodič je dostupan na šest jezika - srpskom engleskom, francuskom, ruskom, španskom i nemačkom. Za 90 minuta, koliko je ukupno traje priča, posetioci mogu obići 39 tačaka na Beogradskoj tvrđavi. Uz aparat, posetilac dobija i mapu na kojoj su ucrtane tačke o kojima postoje komentari. Audio vodič se iznajmljuje u spoljašnjoj Stambol kapiji (kod košarkaških terena Zvezde i Partizana) po ceni od 300 dinara, svakog dana od 10.00 do 18.00 h. Za iznajmljivanje aparata potreban je neki lični dokument, a postoje i aparati prilagođeni osobama sa oštećenim sluhom

Zemun with its cultural and historical monuments and traditional hospitality, receives numerous visitors who enjoy the national cuisine and intimate ambience in its numerous restaurants. Route: Old City Hall, Gospodska Street, Madlenianum Theater, Pantelić Foundry, Karamatina (Karamata’s House), Gardoš, Sinđelićeva Street, Njegoševa (Church of St. Nicholas), Zemun Promenade, Old Harbor Master’s and Old CustomsHouse Departure: each Saturday 18:00, in front of the Old City Hall (Stari Magistrat), Language: Serbian-English

AUDIO VODIČ KROZ BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

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during work days by previous appointment for all information and reservations, visitors must visit the Tourist Information Centre, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 011 3281 859. Contact person: Anđelka Vuković The limit per group is 50 people. Schools, students and pensioner associations interested in visiting the Royal Compound should call the Office of HRH Crown Prince Alexander directly at 011/306-4014 and or email: a.radovanovic@dvor.rs

RAZGLEDANJE KRALJEVSKIH DVOROVA

Dvorski kompleks dinastije Karađorđević na Dedinju sastoji se od Kraljevskog i Belog dvora. Pored dva velelepna dvorska zdanja i parka, posetioci, uz pratnju profesionalnih turističkih vodiča, obilaze i dvorsku kapelu posvećenu Sv. Andreju Prvozvanom, zaštitniku kraljevske porodice. Info: www.kraljevina.org Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, svake subote i nedelje od 9. aprila do 31. oktobra. Trajanje: 120 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Prijave: Karta uključuje povratni transfer na Trg Nikole Pašića. Postoji mogućnost organizovnja grupnih poseta dvoru radnim danima, koje se prethodno moraju zakazati. Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859. Kontakt osoba: Anđelka Vuković. Maksimalan broj turista u grupnom razgledanju je pedeset osoba. Škole, studenti i penzioneri zainteresovani za grupnu posetu dvoru treba da se najave kancelariji NjKV Princa Aleksandara direktno na broj 011/306-4014 i putem emaila: a.radovanovic@dvor.rs

SPECIAL CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL TOURS POSEBNE KULTURNO ISTORIJSKE TURE ROYAL PALACES

The palace complex of the Karađorđević Dynasty in Dedinje includes the Royal Palace and the White Palace. In addition to these two magnificent mansions and the park, the visitors, accompanied by a specialized tour guide, will also visit the chapel dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle, who is the patron saint of the Royal Family. Info: www.kraljevina.org Departure: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Saturday and Sunday from 9 April through 31 October in two regular times Duration: two hour guided tour Bookings: The entry ticket includes a round trip transfer tourist bus starting from Nikola Pasic Square. There is also the possibility to organize group tours

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BELGRADE TROUGH BELGRADE CITY MUSEUM(S)

Walking through a city is the best way to feel its rhytm. For that reason we suggest you to turn this tour into an easy walk during which you may visit four

museums: Residence of Princess Ljubica, Museum of Paja Jovanović, Museum of Ivo Andrić and Museum of Jovan Cvijić. Tickets for the four museums tour programme cost a total of 200 dinars and can be purchased at the ticket offices of any of the included museums. Information: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

KROZ MUZEJ/E/ GRADA BEOGRADA

Najlepši način da se upozna grad, njegov duh, jeste proći kroz njega peške. Zato predlažemo da obilazak Beograda kroz muzej(e) grada Beograda bude lagana šetnja tokom koje mogu da se obiđu 4 muzeja: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej Paje Jovanovića, Muzej Ive Andrića i Muzej Jovana Cvijića. Ulaznice za program obilaska 4 muzeja u kompletu su 200,00 dinars i mogu se kupiti na biletarnicama svakog od pomenutih muzeja. Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

STROLL THROUGH ANCIENT ROMAN SINGIDUNUM

The remains of once powerful Ancient Roman Singidunum built in the 1st century after Christ are found on the site of the current city. There are only a few Ancient Roman monuments, and the ones that have not been destroyed lie under the modern city. Under our feet, from Republic Square to Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park, are most probably Roman lamps, ceramic dishes, remains of fireplaces, barracks of legionary fortresses, ditches, furnaces, Roman tombs and rampart traces. Route: Republic Square, Vasina St., Student Square, plateau in front of the Faculty of Philosophy, Uzun Mirkova St., Belgrade Fortress (Gallery of Belgrade Fortress, plateau in front of the Victor Monument (overlooking the Southern rampart), Lapidarium beside the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments of the City of Belgrade, Kalemegdan Park, The Old Gunpowder Depot, Library of the City of Belgrade (Roman Hall), Knez Mihailova St., Čika Ljubina St., Republic Square. Departure: on Sundays at 11:00, in front of the Monument to Prince Mihailo Language: Serbian-English Duration: 120 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

ŠETNJA KROZ ANTIČKI SINGIDUNUM

Današnji Beograd počiva na ostacima nekada moćnog antičkog Singidunuma koji su sagradili Rimljani u 1. veku n. ere. Antičkih spomenika je malo, a oni koji nisu uništeni leže ispod modernog grada. Pod našim stopama, na pravcu od Trga Republike do Beogradske tvrđave i parka Kalemegdan, verovatno se nalaze rimske lampe, keramičke posude, ostaci ognjišta, legionarske barake, rovovi, peći, rimski grobovi i trase bedema. Maršruta: Trg Republike, Vasina ulica, Studentski trg, plato ispred Filozofskog fakulteta, Uzun Mirkova, Beogradska tvrđava (Galerija Beogradske tvrđave, plato kod Spomenika pobedniku (pogled na Južni bedem), lapidarijum pored Zavoda za zaštitu spomenika kulture grada Beograda, park Kalemegdan, Veliki bartni magacin, Biblioteka grada Beograda ( Rimska dvorana), Knez Mihailova, Čika Ljubina ulica, Trg Republike. Polazak: nedeljom u 11h, kod Spomenika Knezu Mihailu Jezik: srpski-engleski Trajanje: 120 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

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Hotel Accommodation Sightseeing Tours Transfers Business Service Rent-a-car Train, bus & air tickets Complete Service Assistance GUARANTIED DEPARTURES -pick up from hotels CITY TOUR-Daily ,at 10.50,2 Hours with photo stop, OPLENAC-Wed,at 14.00,4 Hours NOVI SAD-Thu, at 14.00,4 hours

www.metropoliten.com www.travelserbiabelgrade.com glob@metropoliten.com

Makenzijeva 26, 11000 Beograd, Srbija Telefoni: (011) 2430-852, (011) 2430-899, (011) 2437-483, (011) 2431-076

TOPČIDER

TOPČIDER TOUR

Wooded and beautifully designed Topčider Park in the valley of the Topčider River is found on the edge of former woods, after which this Northern part of Serbia has been named, Šumadija (Šuma – Wood). In Topčider, Prince Miloš built during the 1830s his residence, which was the center of political power and Belgrade’s educational, religious and cultural life. Route: Residence of Prince Miloš, Topčider Park, Miloš’s Fountain, Church of Holy Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul, Church Dormitory, Topčider Drinking Fountain, Nursery Garden, Mašin Mine, Monument to Archibald Reiss, Sculpture of a Woman Harvester, Obelisk, Topčider River, Restaurant Milošev konak Departure point: On the first Sunday of the month at 11.00am (May 15th, June 5th, July 3rd, August 7th, September 4th), Residence of Prince Miloš Language: Serbian-English Duration: 60 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

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Šumovit i lepo uređen park Topčider u dolini Topčiderske reke, predstavlja krajnji ogranak i ostatak nekadašnjih šuma po kojima je severni deo Srbije i dobio ime Šumadija. U Topčideru je tokom tridesetih godina 19. veka knez Miloš izgradio dvorski kompleks i godinama se tu stvaralo središte političke vlasti, prosvetnog, crkvenog i kulturnog Beograda. Maršruta: Konak kneza Miloša, Topčiderski park, Miloševa česma, Crkva Sv. apostola Petra i Pavla, Crkveni konak, Topčiderska česma, Rasadnik, Mašin majdan, spomenik Arčibaldu Rajsu, skulptura Žetelica, Obelisk, Topčiderska reka, restoran Milošev konak. Polazak: Konak kneza Miloša, svake prve nedelje u mesecu u 11h (15. maj, 5. jun, 3. jul, 7. avgust, 4. septembar) Jezik: srpski-engleski Trajanje: 60 minuta; Cena karte: 200 dinara Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

BELGRADE BUS /TRAM/MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEOGRAD IZ AUTOBUSA, TRAMVAJA, MINIBUSA

BELGRADE BUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

Get to know Belgrade by cruising its city streets and enjoy the interesting stories of guides about the history, architecture and life of Belgraders. Through this tour will be familiarized with the narrow core of the city and part of New Belgrade Route: Belgrade City Assembly, National Parliament, Terazije, Republic Square, Studentski Trg, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade, Topcidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Slavija, Nikola Pasic’s Square Departure point: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Sunday at 10:00 am (in English) and 12:00 noon (Serbian)

Duration: 90 minute guided tour; Tickets are sold onboard city buses Information: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA IZ AUTOBUSA

Rezervacije i informacije: BS TOURS, Savski trg 1a, tel. 761 46 93; 668 84 48; www.bstours.rs Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

Upoznajte Beograd krstareći njegovim gradskim ulicama i uživajte u interesantoj priči vodiča o istoriji grada, arhitekturi i životu Beograđana. Kroz ovu turu upoznaćete uže jezgro grada i deo Novog Beograda. Maršruta: Skupština grada Beograda, Dom Narodne skupštine, Terazije, Trg Republike, Studentski trg, Beogradska tvrđava, Varoš kapija, Novi Beograd, Topčidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Trg Slavija, Trg Nikole Pašića Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, nedeljom u 10.00 (Engleski) i u 12.00 (Srpski) Trajanje: 90 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča; Karte se prodaju u autobusu Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

BS TOURS OPEN BUS SIGHTSEEING

Route: Belgrade City Assembly , National Parliament, Kneza Miloša st., Bul. Mira, Josip Broz Tito Memorial Center, St. Sava Temple, Terazije, Republic Square, Studentski Square, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade Departure point: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every day at 11.00h & 13.00h, except Monday Duration: 50 - 70 minute guided tour Languages: Serbian, English, French, Russian, German Bookings: BS TOURS - Savski trg 1a; tel. 761 46 93; 668 84 48; www.bstours.rs Information: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

BS TOURS RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA IZ AUTOBUSA SA OTVORENIM KROVOM

Maršruta: Skupština grada Beograda, Dom Narodne skupštine, Kneza Miloša, Bulevar mira, Memorijalni centar Josip Broz Tito, Hram Svetog Save, Terazije, Trg republike, Studentski trg, Beogradska tvrđava, Varoš kapija i Novi Beograd. Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, svakog dana u 11h i 13h, osim ponedeljkom Trajanje: 50 - 70 min Jezici: Srpski, Engleski, Francuski, Ruski, Nemački

HOP ON - HOP OFF OPEN TOUR BUS

Hop on - hop off is part of an European chain of operators of tourist sightseeing from open buses. A bus circles across the city and leaves from 14 departure points: Sava Pier (Savsko Pristanište), Hotel Hyatt, Sava Centre, hotel Holiday Inn, Belgrade Arena, Trešnjinog Cveta Street, Terazije, Nikole Pašića Square, 25th May Museum, Saint Sava Temple, Slavija Square, Terazije Square, Republic Square, Kalemegdan Park. There are three buses that are constantly circling around, departing at every half an hour. The first departure is at 09.30 am, and the last one is at 6.00 pm. One bus tour lasts 90 minutes. There are tickets sold and valid for 24 hours or 48 hours. The tourists may “hop on” and “hop off” at any departure point that they choose. The buses are equipped with an Audio guide in Serbian, English, Italian, Spanish, Greek, German, French and Russian.

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Ticket price: Adults 24 hours – 1500 dinars, 48 hours – 2000 dinars; Children 24 hours – 800 dinars, 48 hours – 1000 dinars (for children younger than 6, the ticket is free of charge)

HOP ON – HOP OFF OPEN TOUR BUS

Hop on – hop off je deo evropskog lanca operatora turistickog razgledanja grada iz otvorenih autobusa. Autobusi kruže gradom i imaju 14 stajališta: Savsko pristaniste, Hotel Hyatt, Sava Centar, hotel Holiday Inn, Beogradska Arena, ulica Trešnjinog cveta, Terazije, Trg Nikole Pašića, Muzej 25. maj, hram Svetog Save, Trg Slavija, Trg Terazije, Trg Republike, park Kalemegdan. U stalnom saobracaju su 3 autobusa koji se kreću u intervalima od pola sata. Prvi polazak je u 09:30 a poslednji u 18:00 časova. Jedan obilazak grada traje 90 minuta. U prodaji su karte koje traju 24h ili 48h. Turista može da “uđe i izađe” na bilo kojoj stanici koliko god puta želi. U autobusima postoji Audio – vodič na srpskom, engleskom, italijanskom, španskom, grčkom, nemačkom, francuskom i ruskom. Cena karte: Odrasli 24h –1500 din, 48h – 2000 din; Deca 24h –800 din, 48h – 1000 din (za decu do 6 godina karta je besplatna)

MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

A minibus passes by the main sights of the city. Departure: in front of Balkan Hotel (Prizrenska 2) or Hotel on clients request, weekdays at 10:50 am Duration: three hours Tickets: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Makenzijeva 26, tel.2439-852, 2430-899, 2437483, 2431-076 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade.com

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA MINIBUSOM

Minibus obilazi atraktivne turističke ambijentalne celine grada. Polazak: hotel Balkan (Prizrenska 2), radnim danima, 10.50 h Trajanje: 180 min Prodaja karata: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Makenzijeva 26, tel. 2439-852, 2430-899, 2437-483, 2431-076 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade.com

BELGRADE BY BICYCLE BEOGRAD BICIKLOM IBIKEBELGRADE TOUR

Belgrade tram in 1960s

Professional English-speaking guides will welcome you and take you to the bikes at the Sport Centre 25 May at the Danube within a 10-minute walk. Route: You will enjoy you the rivers Danube and Sava, some architectural highlights of the socialist era of Yugoslavia, the old city of Zemun and the green and beautiful island of Ada with its beach. Departure point: Kneza Mihailova street, in front of the Belgrade City Library, every day of the week at 14.00h Duration: four hours Price: 15€ includes the bike rental, a guided tour, a boat-ride and one free drink during the tour. Information: www.ibikebelgrade.com, tel. 066 900 8386

TRAM NAMED BELGRADE

Route: Departure from the tram turntable at Zoo, street Tadeuša Košćuška, Kalemegdan park, port, Karađordjeva street, Nemanjina street, Resavska street, Boulevard of king Aleksandar, monuments of Vuk Stefanović Karadžić, Kealjice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana to Beko. Departure: Friday, from 20 to 21 pm / tours in english; Saturday: from 16 to 17 pm / tours in English Duration: 60 minute guided tour Reservations: Tourist information center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 The program is free of charge; number of places limited - 25 persons

TRAMVAJ ZVANI BEOGRAD

Maršruta: Polazak sa okretnice kod ZOO vrta, ulica Tadeuša Košćuška, stajanje kod Kalemegdana, Pristanište, Karađorđeva ulica pored Železničke stanice, Nemanjina, Resavska, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra do Vukovog spomenika, Kraljice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana do Beka. Polazak: Petak, od 19h do 20h/ tura na srpskom, subota: od 15h do 16h/ tura na srpskom Vreme trajanja: 60 minuta Rezervacije: Turističko informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 Program razgledanja iz tramvaja je besplatan, broj mesta je ograničen na 25 osoba.

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TURA IBIKEBELGRADE

Dočekaće vas profesionalni vodiči koji govore engleski i poželeti vam dobrodošlicu. Za desetk minuta hoda stići ćete do Sportskog centra 25. maj na obali Dunava, gde ćete odabrati bicikl. Maršruta: Uživaćete na obalama Dunava i Save, videćete neke arhitektonske domete iz doba jugoslovenskog socijalizma, staro jezgro Zemuna, lepu zelenu Adu Ciganliju i njene plaže.

Polazak: Knez Mihailova ulica ispred zgrade Biblioteke grada Beograda, svakim danom u 14h Trajanje: četiri sata Cena: 15€ uključuje rentiranje bicikla, vodiča, prevoz brodom i jedno besplatno piće Informacije: www.ibikebelgrade.com, tel. 066 900 8386

BELGRADE FROM RIVERS BEOGRAD SA REKA

JAHTING KLUB KEJ

Panoramsko razgledanje grada i krstarenja s muzičkim programom i večerom a la carte. Linija plovidbe: Sportski centar 25.maj, Konj ostrvo, Ratno ostrvo, Kula Nebojša, Beogradska tvrđava. luka Beograd, Hram Svetog Save, Brankov most, Železnički most. Polazak: Jahting Klub Kej, Ušće bb, svakog dana u 18:00 h i 20:00 h (Muzički program) Trajanje: 2 sata Informacije: www.klubkej.com, tel. 316-5432, 064 825 1103, Ove sezone, sa svakom kupljenom kartom za razgledanje grada otvorenim autobusom agencije BS Tours, besplatno dobijate plovidbu brodovima Jahting Klub Kej. Sa kupljenom kartom možete ploviti svakog dana u terminima 18 i 20h. Potrebno je samo da pokažete kupljenu kartu.

BEOGRAD 25

Regular panoramic sightseeing tours. Cruising route: Dorćol, Great War Island, Kalemegdan, Usće, Belgrade port, Belgrade bridges, Ada Ciganlija, Ada Međica, Dorćol. Departure point: Sports Center Milan Gale Muškatirović, every day at 18:30h &20:20h Duration: 1,5 h Ticket price: adults 350 dinars, kids 200 dinars Informaton: www.jpmgm.co.rs, tel. 262-2866, 060 8222310

BEOGRAD 25

SIRONA CRUISES

Sirona boat is a luxurious and comfortable river boat. The regular offer of the Sirona tour ship includes the programmes: Afternoon excursion, Dinner Cruise, Belgrade from its Rivers, Full day excursion,. On each tour children younger than 10 years have 10% of discount on tickets. Departure point: Sava port Information: www.sirona.rs, tel. 303 90 90, 063 26 26 90

Redovno panoramsko razgledanje grada. Linija plovidbe: Dorćol, Veliko ratno ostrvo, Kalemegdan, Ušće, luka Beograd, mostovi grada, Adi Ciganlija, Ada Međica, Dorćol. Polazak: Sportski centar Milan Gale Muškatirović, svakog dana u 18:30 h i 20:20 h Trajanje: 1,5 h Cena karte: odrasli 350 din, deca 200 din Informacije: www.jpmgm.co.rs, tel. 262-2866, 060 8222310

KRSTARENJE BRODOM SIRONA

Brod Sirona je luksuzan i komforan rečni brod. U redovnoj ponudi Sirone su programi: Popodnevni izlet, Krstarenje s večerom, Beograd sa reka i Celodnevni izlet,. Polazak: Savsko pristanište Informacije: www.sirona.rs , tel. 303 90 90

YAHTING CLUB KEJ

Panoramic sightseeing of the city and cruise with musical program and dinner a la carte. Cruising route: Sports center 25.maj, Horse island, War island, Nebojša tower, Belgrade fortress, Port of Belgrade, St. Sava temple, Branko’s bridge, Railroad bridge. Departure point: Ušće bb, every day at 18:00h and 20:00h (musical program) Duration: 2 hours Informaton: www.klubkej.com, tel, 316-5432, 064 825 1103, This season, with each ticket for open bus city sightseeing purchased in the agency BS Tours, you will get a free cruise on boats of the Yachting Club Kej. With the purchased ticket, you can take a cruise every day from 6.00 PM and 8.00 PM. You only need to show the ticket.

RTD NAUTIKA - ISTAR BOAT CRUISE

Istar boat is a river boat, of ‘’catamaran’’ type. Cruising route: Yugoslavia Hotel, the panorama of Zemun, sporting and recreation centre “25th May”, Belgrade Fortress, the confluence of the Sava into the Danube, the Museum of Modern Arts, the Cathedral Church, bridges on the Sava, the Great War Island. Departure point: pier near the Yugoslavia Hotel, on every working day at 6.00 PM, on Saturdays and Sundays at 6.00 PM and 8.00 PM

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Duration: 1.5 hours Ticket price: 400 dinars Information: www.rtdnautika.co.rs, tel. 261 03 08, 063 345 968

petkom i subotom u 20h. Informacije: www.eurometronavodi.com, tel. 369-2057, 062 212 112

RTD NAUTIKA - KRSTARENJE BRODOM ISTAR

Danuvije tourist boat is a large boat with spatious dock covered by a tent. A regular offer includes cruising routes of an hour and a half, two and three hours of cruising. Cruising route of 1.5 hours: old city heart, bridges on the Sava River, Zemun Quay, Zemun, Kalemegdan, the confluence of the Sava into the Danube. Cruising route of 2 hours: old city heart, bridges on the Sava River, Ada Međica (New Belgrade, blocks 70 and 45), Great War Island, Lido, Gardoš, Zemun Quay, Zemun, Kalemegdan, the confluence of the Sava into the Danube. Cruising route of 3 hours: old city heart, bridges on the Sava River, Ada Međica (New Belgrade, blocks 70 and 45), Great War Island, Lido, Gardoš, Zemun Quay, Zemun, Kalemegdan, the confluence of the Sava into the Danube, Ada Huja, Pančevo Bridge, Kalemegdan, the confluence of the Sava into the Danube. Departure point: pier on 2-4 Karađorđeva Street Information: www.danuvije.com, tel. 064 2923-698, 064 234-3100

Brod Istar je rečni brod tipa ‘’katamaran’’. Linija plovidbe: hotel Jugoslavija, panorama Zemuna, SRC “25. maj”, Beogradska tvrđava, ušće Save u Dunav, Muzej savremene umetnosti, Saborna crkva, mostovi na Savi, Veliko ratno ostrvo. Polazak: pristanište kod hotela Jugoslavija, radnim danima u 18h, subotom i nedeljom u 18h i 20h Trajanje: 1,5 h Cena karte: 400 din Informacije: www.rtdnautika.co.rs, tel. 261 03 08, 063 345 968

EUROMETRO - TRAJAN BOAT CRUISES

Cruising route: Danube, Usće, Nebojša tower, Belgrade bridges, Blok 45, Ada Međica. Departure point: Zemun, Kej osolbođenja, every day at 14.00h,16.00h,18.00h & 20.00h Ticket price: adults 350 dinars, kids 5-12 yaers 200 dinars Eurometro on the Water’s regular offer includes Dinner Cruises on Fridays & Saturdays at 20.00h Informaton: www.eurometronavodi.com, tel. 369-2057, 062 212 112

EUROMETRO - KRSTARENJE BRODOM TRAJAN

Linija plovidbe: Dunav, Ušće, kula Nebojša, beogradski mostovi, Blok 45, Ada Međica. Polazak: Zemun, Kej oslobođenja, svakog dana u 14h, 16h, 18h i 20h Cena karte: za odrasle 350 din, za decu 5-12 godina 200 din. U redovnoj ponudi Eurometroa na vodi je i program Krstarenja sa večerom,

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DANUVIJE BOAT CRUISES

KRSTARENJE BRODOM DANUVIJE

Turistički brod Danuvije je veliki brod s prostranom palubom pokrivenom tendom. U redovnoj ponudi su krstarenja u trajanju od sat i po, dva i tri sata plovidbe. Maršruta 1.5 h: staro jezgro grada, mostovi na Savi, Zemunski kej, Zemun, Kalemegdan, ušće Save u Dunav. Maršruta 2h: staro jezgro grada, mostovi na Savi, Ada Međica (Novi Beograd, blokovi 70 i 45), Veliko Ratno ostrvo, Lido, Gardoš, Zemunski kej, Kalemegdan, ušće Save u Dunav. Maršruta 3h: staro jezgro grada, mostovi na Savi, Ada Međica (Novi Beograd, blokovi 70 i 45), Veliko Ratno ostrvo, Lido, Gardoš, Zemunski kej,

Kalemegdan, ušće Save u Dunav, Ada Huja, Pančevački most, Kalemegdan, ušće Save u Dunava. Polazak: pristanište Karađorđeva 2 - 4 Informacije: www.danuvije.com, tel. 064 2923-698, 064 234-3100

TURTLE BOAT

The tourist boat Turtle (Kornjača) has a big closed room with a bar, on two floors. The boat is fully in glass so it allows you to enjoy in the charms of the river even during cloudy and rainy weather. On the ship’s stern, there is a platform covered with a tent. Departure point: on every working day in intervals of two hours, from 4.00 PM to 8.00 PM. On Saturdays and Sundays from 10.00 AM to 8.00 PM. Note: the minimum number of passengers for departure is 10 persons Ticket price: adults 350 dinars, children 175 dinars Information: www.danuvije.com, tel. 064 2923-698, 064 234-3100

BROD KORNJAČA

Turistički brod Kornjača ima veliki zatvoren salon sa šankom na dva sprata. Brod je kompletno zatvoren u staklu te omogućava uživanje u čarima reke i po oblačnom i kišnom vremenu. Na krmenom delu broda se nalazi lepa platforma natkrivena tendom. Polazak: svakim radnim danom u intervalima od 2 h od 16h do 20 h. Subotom i nedeljom od 10h do20h. Napomena: minimalan broj putnika za polazak je 10 osoba Cena karte: odrasli 350 din, deca 175 din Informacije: www.danuvije.com, tel. 064 2923-698, 064 234-3100

HIDROGLISER MASLAČAK - ĐERDAP

Jedinstveni turisticki brod u našem regionu, nekada je bio ponos sovjetske brodogradnje. Sa hidrogliserom Dunavom ćete stići do Đerdapa za 3 sata, Novog Sada za 1.5 h, a za 2 sata plovidbe možete stići i do Viminacijuma ili Novog Bečeja. Dunavska transportna logistika je vlasnik broda i organizuje jednodnevna, vikend putovanja i kružne ture sa čarter servisom. Informacije: Dunavska transportna logistika, www.dtltransport.net

BELGRADE FROM THE AIR BEOGRAD IZ VAZDUHA BALLOON RIDE OVER BELGRADE

Get to know Belgrade from a different perspective and enjoy romantic views of the Ušće confluence of the rivers Sava and Danube. Sightseeing from a hot air balloon is available every day year-round, provided there is no rainfall and the wind speed does not exceed 5 m/s. Fly up to an altitude of 1000 metres. Information: www.balonservis.rs, www.maxair.rs, tel. 062-252-067, 064822-0408

SIGHTSEEING OF BELGRADE FROM THE RIB DINGHY

Experience something special. Enjoy sightseeing of Belgrade from the rivers Sava and Danube by sailing a RIB dinghy. The programme covers: 2 hour voyage on a RIB dinghy with a captain, a few minutes personal control of the dinghy, visits to interesting places on the riverbanks and Vinča. Departure: dock et Sava river, Block 45 Information: www.advanceboat.com, tel. 2772 192; 299 3871

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA RIB ČAMCEM

Doživite nešto posebno. Uživajte u razgledanju Beograda sa Save i Dunava vozeći se RIB čamcem. Program obuhvata: 2h vožnje RIB čamcem sa kapetanom, nekoliko minuta lične vožnje RIB čamca, posetu interesantnim mestima na obalama reka. Polazak: marina u bloku 45 Informacije: www.advanceboat.com, tel. 2772 192; 299 3871

HYDROFOIL MASLAČAK - ĐERDAP

This unique tourist boat in the region was once the pride of Soviet shipbuilding. Via hydrofoil along the Danube you can reach the Đerdap Iron Gates in three hours and Novi Sad in 1.5 hours, while it’s just a two-hour cruise to the Vimacium or Novi Bečej. The hydrofoil is owned by company Dunavske Transportne Logistike (Danube Transport Logistics), which organises one-day excursions, weekend trips and cruises with a charter service. Information: Danube Transport Logistics, tel. 311-92-41, 311-96-53, www.dtltransport.net

LETENJE BALONOM IZNAD BEOGRADA

Upoznajte Beograd iz drugačije perspektive i uživate u romantičnom pogledu na ušće Save u Dunav. Razgledanje Beograda iz vazduha balonom moguće je svakim danom tokom godine kada nema padavina i kada brzina vetra ne prelazi 5 m/s. Leti se do visine od 1000 m. Informacije: www.balonservis.rs, www.maxair.rs, tel. 062-252-067, 064822-0408

SPECIAL TOURS SPECIJALNE TURE RAKIA TOUR OF BELGRADE

Tasting of five different kinds of Rakia, served with appropriate snacks, in three different places in Belgrade with services of a professional guide in Serbian, English, French or Italian language Departure: Upon request, from one of Rakia bars Informaton: www.rakiabar.com, tel. 243 88 76, Cell phone 060 031 85 10 Bookings: Reservations are required 24 hours in advance . Minimum six persons, maximum 20 persons.

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BEOGRADSKA RAKIJA TURA

Ukoliko želite da osetite autentučni šarm Beograda i boemsku atmosferu uz organizovanu posetu Rakia barovima, gde uz pratnju stručnog vodiča možete više da saznate o rakiji i Beogradu i probate 5 različitih rakija na tri razlicite lokacije koje se služe uz posebnu vrstu mezetluka koji pojačava i uokviruje sam ukus rakije. Polazak: Po dogovoru, iz jednog od Rakia barova. Informacije: www.rakiabar.com, tel. 243 88 76, Mob: 060 031 85 10 Rezervacije: obavezna je rezervacija 24 sata pre polaska. Minimum 6 osoba, maksimum 20 osoba.

BEAUTIFUL SREM-SURČIN

One-day programme: The boat departs from the pier on Block 44. The cruise to the pier in Jakovo. Visit to the stud farm Stremen, S Club, the monastery of Fenek, Bojčinska Forest, visit to the ethno-village Boljevci and Nautical Village. Two-day programme: continues with an overnight stay in the Nautical Village; on the next day: visit to the monastery of Kupinovo, visit of the Roman archaeological site Sirmium in Sremska Mitrovica, visit of the protected nature reserve Obedska Bara. Information: public company Tourism – Surčin, Kosovska 2, Tel. 069/86-37669, www.surcin.net Note: The minimum number of passengers is eight

Zoolški vrt je otvoren čitave godine Informacije: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26

JEVREMOVAC BOTANICAL GARDENS

The Jevremovac Botanical Gardens is a monument to nature and a cultural monument of the city. Along with the Institute for Botany, the garden is a teaching unit of the Belgrade Biology Faculty. The botanical garden is home to around 1,000 species of plant and includes a 500m2 glasshouse erected way back in 1892. Duration: One hour Departure point: Major gate of Botanic Garden (Takovska 43) Working hours: 9-19h Informaton: Tel. 3246-655

PRELEPI SREM-SURČIN

Jednodnevni program: Polazak brodom iz pristaništa u Bloku 44. Plovidba do pristaništa u Jakovu. Poseta ergeli Stremen, S Klubu, manastiru Fenek, Bojčinskoj šumi, obilazak etno-sela Boljevci i Nautičkog sela. Dvodnevni program: se nastavlja noćenjem u Nautičkom selu, sutradan sledi poseta manastiru Kupinovo, obilazak rimskog arheološkog lokalitete Sirmijum u Sremskoj Mitrovici, poseta zaštićenom prirodnom dobru Obedska bara. Informacije: Javno preduzeće za Turizam - Surčin, Kosovska 2, Tel. 069/86-37669, www.surcin.net Napomena: Minimalan broj putnika je osam

BELGRADE GARDENS: ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN & BOTANICAL GARDEN JEVREMOVAC THE GARDEN OF GOOD HOPE

The Zoological Garden is located in Kalemegdan, a part of the Belgrade Fortress, Belgrade’s most important cultural and historic monument. It was founded in 1936. Along with the great variety of attractive animal residents such as the white lions, giraffes, monkeys, and the cheetah, at the Garden you’ll also see many sculptures, and three of these sculptures are specifically dedicated to the authentic heroes from the animal world. Belgrade Zoological Garden is open all year round. Informaton: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26.

VRT DOBRE NADE

Zoolški vrt se nalazi na malom Kalemegdanu, u okviru najznačajnije ambijentalne celine Beograda- Beogradske tvrđave. Utemeljen je 1936. godine. Uz veliki broj različitih i atraktivnih životinja, kao što su beli lavovi, žirafe, majmuni... Zoolški vrt je mesto na kojem ćete videti brojne skulpture, od kojih su neke posvećene autentičnim herojima iz sveta životinja.

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BOTANIČKA BAŠTA JEVREMOVAC

Botanička bašta Jevremovac je spomenik prirode i spomenik kulture grada. Ona je zajedno sa Institutom za botaniku nastavna jedinica Biološkog fakulteta u Beogradu. U Botaničkoj bašti se nalazi oko 1.000 biljnih vrsta, a staklena bašta od 500 kvadratnih metara podignuta je još 1892. godine. Trajanje obilaska: 1 sat Polazak: Glavna kapija botaničke bašte (Takovska 43) Radno vreme: 9-19h Informacije: Tel. 3246-655

TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA BEOGRADA WWW.TOB.CO.RS Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 011 2097-828 (ponedeljak – nedelja 8-22h) Knez Mihailova 6 011 3281 159 (ponedeljak - subota 9-21h) Glavna železnička stanica 011 361-2732 (ponedeljak – petak 8-20h; subota i nedelja 8-16 h) Savsko pristanište, Karađorđeva b.b. (april - novembar: ponedeljak – nedelja 8-19 h) Turistički centar Zemun, Zmaj Jovina14 011 2192-094 (ponedeljak - petak 9-15 h, subota 9-13 h) Informativni centar Turističke organizacije Srbije Čika Ljubina 8/I, tel.011 6557 127 (ponedeljak – subota 9-21h )

DISCOVER SERBIA

On the following pages of BelGuest you will be presented with selected destinations in Serbia and Vojvodina. In its Cultural Postcard, the Tourist Organisation of Novi Sad announces the major summer events. The Tourist Organisation of Serbia (TOS) has chosen to introduce you to the nice Banat town of Vršac and the art treasures kept in the Vršac Bishop Court. As a part of The sounds of summer in Serbia, the promotion of the summer music festivals, TOS presents the Nišville Jazz Festival. This extraordinary jazz event is the starting point for the Tourist Organisation of Niš story of the city, offering you the tips on how to discover its atmosphere, sample the local cuisine, and explore this city incorporating three different historical epochs.

UPOZNAJTE SRBIJU

Na narednim stranicama BelGuest-a upoznaćete odabrane destinacije Srbije i Vojvodine. Turistička organizacija Novog Sada predstavlja se kulturnom razglednicom grada i najavljuje glavna letnja dešavanja. Turistička organizacija Srbije odabrala je da predstavi lepu banatsku varoš Vršac i umetnička blaga koja čuva vršački Vladičanski dvor. U sklopu promocije letnjih muzičkih festivala Zvuci leta Srbije, TOS predstavlja Nišvill Jazz Festival, a na ovo vrhunsko džez dešavanje nadovezuje se priča Turistička organizacija Niša koja vam daje putokaze za otkrivanje atmosfere, gastronomske ponude i upoznavanje grada iz tri različite epohe.

Petrovaradin Fortress

CULTURaL PosTCaRd neither too big nor too small, neither too fast nor too slow; not overambitious or lazy, nor overly intimate or cold and alienated, novi sad is, thus, tailored perfectly to fit man. at only eighty kilometres from Belgrade lies a city with a true sense of beauty â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in architecture, culture, art, but also in its everyday life. novi sad makes a special, true and challenging additional energy of Belgrade 64

Spring | proleÄ&#x2021;e 2011 BelGuest

f we embarked on a special cultural tour of Novi Sad according to criteria of the beautiful, distinctive and interesting, the experience and content that fills the soul would be worth every step. We say step, because almost all of the city’s attractions can be visited on foot. There is the new building of the oldest Serbian theatre, founded in 1861, the Serbian National Theatre in Novi Sad. Dunavska Street and Dunavski Park are the favourite meeting spots for Novi Sad residents. The street, filled with restaurants, cafés and boutiques in authentic Vojvodina houses with Kibitz Fensters, is an artery of the city. And in the centre of the largest public park there is a lake with an island, Erzsébet, inhabited by swans. CiTY unDEr THE ForTrEss The city’s name has changed throughout history, having been mentioned as Serbian Athens (Srpska Atina), Neoplanta, Újvidék or Nojzac, but its extraordinary charms have remained the same. The city’s rich historical records say that the Romans built a fortress on the Danube, on the Petrovaradin rock in the hinterlands of Fruška Gora, then in 1694 the Austrians built a settlement on the left bank called Racko village. Novi Sad was awarded the status of a free royal city on 1st February 1748 by Empress Maria Theresa for the sum of 80,000 Rheine silver florins. Once a military fortification, Petrovaradin Fortress dominated this unpredictable area of the boundaries of civilisation of European history for centuries. The crowned queen of baroque fortresses, it is a masterpiece of Vauban’s exclusive school of fortification. Today its amazing shapes and content are filled with the aroma of entertainment and culture, while its underground galleries lead us through corridors of time, narrating the story of a fortress that was never conquered militarily. Trg Slobode (Liberty Square) is dominated by City Hall, with its elegant Neo-Renaissance style archi-

EXiT

The organisers of this year’s Exit Festival announce loud music, positive energy and a lot of walking around the fortress so that visitors can find time to hear everything. In addition to standard high quality programmes, visitors this year will have more entertainment facilities at their disposal: Silent Disco, 3D Disco, themed parties and many more surprises to come. Distinguishing Exit from other festivals are its location and atmosphere. There is no other festival of this size and importance that is held inside a 17th-century fortress. This year Petrovaradin Fortress will again provide the venue for Exit from 7th to 10th July. Performing on the Main Stage will be Arcade Fire, Pulp, Jamiroquai, Portishead, Nick Cave and Grinderman, The Editors, MIA, Bad Religion, Santigold, Magnetic Man, Jinx, Darkwood Dub and others. The fact is that the essence of the concept of Exit, with which it gained its reputation, is its variety of programmes and the creation of a top quality musical palette where you can find “a little for everyone.” tecture. It was built from 1893 to 1895 according to the project of architect György Molnár. In front of the building stands a monument to 19th century Serbian politician Svetozar Miletić, which is a work of sculptor Ivan Mestrović. Nearby is the Roman Catholic Parish Church of the Name of Virgin Mary from 1893, which was built in the Neo-Gothic style. Beside it is Plebanija – the building of the Roman Catholic parish office and

the palace Vatican, which round off the square. Miletićeva Street is the most beautiful street in the old town. It hides a restaurant, Kod Lipe (At the Linden Tree), where visitors to the then small Vojvodina town as far back as 1880 drank wine to the sound of the tamburitza. Continuing this walk around Novi Sad, you will reach the former Magazinski Sokak (trading alley). Today this is Zmaj Jovina Street – a trading centre

The interior of Matica Srpska

BelGuest proleće | Spring 2011

of sorts. With the murmur and laughter of passersby, street musicians, numerous bookstores and galleries, you will be greeted by the monument of the famous Serbian poet after whom the street was named. In the immediate vicinity rises the Bishop’s Palace, the seat of the Diocese of Bačka, which has adorned the city since 1901. The iconostasis of the nearby Orthodox Cathedral Church was painted by Paja Jovanović, so be sure not to miss the moments of true spiritual rapture there. Lovers of literature will find pleasure in the two-centuries-old Matica Srpska, which has a library that now boasts nearly three million books. The permanent exhibition of the Gallery of Matica Srpska provides visitors with an insight into the creativity of the 18th and 19th centuries, the Memorial Collection of Pavle Beljanski preserves and exhibits the most important works of Serbian and Yugoslav art created between the First and Second World Wars, while the Gift Collection of Rajko Mamuzić presents works of Serbian contemporary visual art from the period after the Second World War. TiME MaDE To THE CiTY’s MEasurE Almaški Kraj is a neighbourhood of narrow winding streets that are linked to the square that’s home to the Matica Srpska. It originates from the first half of the 18th century, when the people of the nearby Almaš moved in. Almaška Street is home to the largest Orthodox church in Novi Sad, the Church of Dunavska Street – the city’s main pedestrian zone

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CinEMa CiTY This year’s International Film Festival Cinema City will be held from 18th to 25th June in Novi Sad. During eight summer days, Novi Sad becomes a city of cinema, where film, music and educational programmes are organised at various places, including open-air cinemas. The audience will watch movies at known and popular open-air sites at the Dunavski (Danubian) Park and the Catholic churchyard. A new central location is the Arena Cineplex, a renovated and superbly equipped theatre screening competitive selections and local premieres. Cinema City will present the public with around 150 films in more than 15 programme selections this year. A good atmosphere is traditionally contributed to by significant filmmakers, representatives of international festivals, musicians and journalists. The opening and closing ceremonies will be marked by major musical events, ensuring Petrovaradin Fortress will be the venue for great parties, with local and international bands and DJs performing. Part of the festival programme also consists of workshops, simulations, debates and master-classes, which represent a platform for young filmmakers. Saint Three Hierarchs, better known as the Almaš Church, a cultural monument of exceptional value. The Serbian Orthodox Church of Saint Three Hierarchs was built on the site of a previous church between 1797 and 1808 in the Classicist style. Arsenije Teodorović painted the iconostasis and images in the vault of the nave, while Ukrainian painter Andrei Šaltist painted the altar zone. It takes more time to get to Nikolajevska Church, the city’s oldest Orthodox church. First mentioned in records from 1730, it is the church where the sons of Albert Einstein were baptised. Do not the miss the chance to visit the Novi Sad Synagogue, with the most beautiful concert hall on Jevrejska Street, or the City Museum, the Academy of Arts

and the observatory. And for true relaxation, the river and the Danube Strand (Štrand) beach await you. A look at the Clock tower on Petrovaradin Fortress, which has a mechanism that measures time in an unusual way – with the small hands ticking minutes and the big hands ticking hours – will help you to balance your time, in the general and everyday rush, and adjust yourself to the beats of Novi Sad. This city deserves that. DrAgAnA MArKoVić VlADiMir poČUČ

Festival of street players

KULTURna RaZGLEdniCa ni prevelik ni premalen, ni prebrz ni prespor, ni preambiciozan ni lenj, ni previše intiman, niti hladno otuđen, novi sad je, dakle, taman po meri čoveka. na samo osamdesetak kilometra od Beograda nalazi se grad sa istinskim osećajem za lepo – u arhitekturi, kulturi, umetnosti, ali i svakodnevnom životu. novi sad je svojevrsna, prava i izazovna dodatna energija Beogradu.

ada bismo po kriterijumu lepog, prepoznatljivog i zanimljivog krenuli posebnom kulturnom turom po Novom Sadu, doživljaj i sadržaj koji ispunjava dušu, vredeo bi svakog pruženog koraka. Naglašavamo korake, jer se u ovom gradu skoro sve zanimljivosti mogu obići pešačenjem. U Novom Sadu je Srpsko narodno pozorište, najstariji srpski teatar, podignuto 1861. godine. Dunavska ulica i park omiljena su sastajališta Novosađana. Ulica načičkana restoranima, kafićima i buticima u autentičnim vojvođanskim kućama sa kibic fensterima arterija je grada. A u središtu najvećeg gradskog parka nalazi se jezero sa ostrvom Eržebet, nastanjeno labudovima.

graD PoD TVrĐaVoM Grad je tokom istorije menjao imena, pominje se kao Srpska Atina, Neoplanta, Ujvidek ili Nojzac, ali je njegov nesvakidašnji šarm ostajao isti Bogata istorijska čitanka grada kaže da su još Rimljani podigli utvrđenje na Dunavu, na Petrovaradinskoj steni u zaleđini Fruške gore, a Austrijanci 1694. godine, naselje na levoj obali nazvano Racko selo. Status slobodnog kraljevskog grada Novi Sad je dobio 1. februara 1748. godine od carice Marije Terezije, za 80.000 rajnskih srebrnih forinti. Nekada vojno utvrđenje, Petrovaradinska tvrđava je vekovima dominirala nepredvidivim prostorom

civilizacijskog razmeđa evropske istorije. Krunisana kraljica baroknih tvrđava remek-delo je Vobanove ekskluzivne škole fortifikacije. Danas su njeni zadivljujući oblici i sadržaji ispunjeni aromom zabave i kulture, a njene podzemne galerije vode hodnicima vremena, pripovedajući priču o tvrđavi koja nikada nije vojnički osvojena. Na Trgu slobode svojom elegantnom arhitekturom u neorenesansnom stilu dominira Gradska kuća. Građena je od 1893. do 1895. godine, po projektu arhitekte Đerđa Molnara. Ispred nje je spomenik Svetozaru Miletiću, srpskom političaru 19. veka, rad vajara Ivana Meštrovića. U blizini je i Rimokatolička župna crkva Ime Marijino iz 1893. godine, podignuta u neogotskom

BelGuest proleće | Spring 2011

Liberty Square (Trg Slobode) with the City Hall and the monument to Svetozar Miletić

EXiT

Organizatori ovogodišnjeg Exita najavljuju glasnu muziku, pozitivnu energiju, i dosta hodanja po Tvrđavi kako bi posetioci stigli sve da čuju. Pored standardno dobrih programa, posetiocima će ove godine biti dostupan i nešto veći broj zabavnih sadržaja: Silent Disco, 3D Disco, tematske zabave i još mnogo iznenađenja. To što Exit izdvaja od ostalih festivala, jesu njegova lokacija i atmosfera. Ne postoji nijedan drugi festival te veličine i značaja koji se održava unutar tvrđave građene u 17. veku. I ove godine Petrovaradinska tvrđava će od 7. do 10. jula biti mesto održavanja Exita. Samo na Glavnoj bini (Main Stage) nastupiće Arcade Fire, Pulp, Jamiroquai, Portishead, Nick Cave & Grinderman, Editors, M.I.A, Bad Religion, Santigold, Magnetic Man, Jinx, Darkwood Dub... Činjenica je da je u suštini koncepta Exita, kojim je i postigao svoj rejting – raznolikost programa i stvaranje odlične muzičke palete, iz koje se može pronaći za svakoga ponešto. stilu. Uz nju se nižu Plebanija – zgrada Rimokatoličkog župnog ureda i palata Vatikan, koje zaokružuju prostor trga. Miletićeva ulica najlepša je u starom jezgru grada. U sebi čuva restoran „Kod lipe“, u kome su još od 1880. godine, uz zvuke tamburica vino ispijali ondašnji posetioci vojvođanske varošice. Nastavljajući tom hodnom linijom šetnje po Novom Sadu, stižete do nekadašnjeg Magazinskog sokaka. Danas je to Zmaj Jovina ulica – svojevrsno trgovačko središte. Tu će vas, uz žamor i smeh prolaznika, ulične svirače, brojne knjižare i galerije, dočekati spomenik poznatog srpskog pesnika, po kome je ulica i nazvana. U neposrednoj blizini uzdiže se Vladičanski dvor, sedište Bačke eparhije, koji grad krasi od 1901. godine. Ikonostas obližnje pravoslavne Saborne crkve oslikao je Paja Jovanović, pa ne propustite trenutke istinskog duhovnog ushićenja. Za poklonike pisane reči zadovoljstvo će predstavljati i dva veka stara Matica srpska, čija biblioteka danas broji blizu tri miliona knjiga. Stalna postavka Galerije Matice srpske poseti-

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ocu pruža uvid srpsko stvaralaštvo 18. i 19. veka, Spomen-zbirka Pavla Beljanskog čuva i izlaže najznačajnija dela srpske i jugoslovenske umetnosti nastale između Prvog i Drugog svetskog rata, dok Poklon-zbirka Rajka Mamuzića predstavlja dela savremene srpske likovne umetnosti iz vremena posle Drugog svetskog rata. VrEME Po MEri graDa Almaški kraj je naselje uskih krivudavih ulica, koje se nadovezuje na Trg na kome je i Matica srpska. Nastalo je u prvoj polovini 18. veka doseljavanjem stanovnika iz obližnjeg Almaša. U Almaškoj ulici nalazi se najveća pravoslavna crkva u Novom Sadu

Underground galleries of the Petrovaradin Fortress

CinEMa CiTY

Sveta Tri jerarha, poznatija kao Almaška crkva, spomenik kulture od izuzetne vrednosti. Srpska pravoslavna crkva Sveta Tri jerarha, podignuta je na mestu starije crkve, između 1797. i 1808. u klasicističkom stilu. Arsenije Teodorović oslikao je ikonostas i slike na svodu naosa, a ukrajinski slikar Andrej Šaltist oslikao je oltarski prostor. Do Nikolajevske crkve, najstarijeg pravoslavnog hrama grada, koji se u spisima prvi put pominje 1730. godine, u kome su kršteni sinovi Alberta Ajnštajna, valja još pešačiti. Ne propustite da posetite i novosadsku Sinagogu, sa najlepšom koncertnom dvoranom u Jevrejskoj ulici, ili Muzej grada, Akademiju umetnosti i Opservatorij. A za istinsko opuštanje čekaju vas reka i dunavska plaža Štrand. Pogled na Sat-kulu Petrovaradinske tvrđave, čiji mehanizam neobično odmerava vreme – mala kazaljka otkucava minute, a velika sate, pomoći će vam da u svekolikoj i svakodnevnoj žurbi svoje vreme odmerite i prilagodite otkucajima Novog Sada. Ovaj grad to zaslužuje.

Ovogodišnji Internacionalni filmski festival Cinema City biće održan od 18. do 25. juna, u Novom Sadu. Tokom osam dana leta Novi Sad postaje grad bioskop, u kome se filmski, muzički i edukativni programi održavaju na različitim mestima, uključujući i bioskope na otvorenom. Publika će filmove gledati na već poznatim i popularnim open-air lokacijama Dunavskog parka i Katoličke porte. Nova centralna lokacije je Arena Cineplex, renoviran i vrhunski opremljen bioskop, u kome će se prikazivati takmičarske selekcije i domaće premijere. Cinema City će ove godine publici prikazati oko 150 filmova, u okviru više od 15 programskih selekcija. Dobroj atmosferi tradicionalno doprinose značajni filmski autori, predstavnici svetskih festivala, muzičari i novinari. Otvaranje i zatvaranje festivala obeležiće veliki muzički događaji, pa će tako Petrovaradinska tvrđava biti mesto odličnih žurki, na kojima nastupaju poznati domaći i strani bendovi i di-džejevi. Deo festivalskog programa čine i radionice, simulacije, diskusije i master-klasovi, koji predstavljaju platformu za razvoj mladih filmskih autora. The Museum of Vojvodina

DrAgAnA MArKoVić VlADiMir poČUČ

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info | novi sad TourisT organizaTion noVi saD Modene 1, 21000 Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 421 811, +381 21 66 17 343 Fax: +381 21 451 481 tons@turizamns.rs, info@turizamns.rs www.turizamns.rs MusEuMs THE MusEuM oF THE ToWn oF noVi saD Petrovaradinska tvrđava Tel: +381 21 64 33 145 , 64 33 613 muzgns@eunet.rs www.museumns.rs THE MusEuM oF THE ToWn oF noVi saD – ForEign arT CoLLECTion Dunavska 29 Tel: +382 21 451 239 muzgns@eunet.rs www.museumns.rs THE MusEuM oF THE ToWn oF noVi saD – THE HoMELanD MusEuM srEMsKi KarLoVCi Patrijarha Rajačića 16, Sremski Karlovci Tel: +381 21 881 637 muzejsrkarlovci@gmail.com THE MusEuM oF VoJVoDina Dunavska 35,Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 420 566, 526 555 muzejvojvodine3@nscable.net www.muzejvojvodine.org PozoriŠni MuzEJ VoJVoDinE Kralja Aleksandra 5, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 66 13 322 info@pmv.org.rs www.pmv.org.rs THE MusEuM oF ConTEMPorarY FinE arT Jevrejska 21, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 66 13 897, 66 11 463, 66 13 526 msluns@eunet.rs www.msuv.org

THE insTiTuTE oF THE ProTECTion oF naTurE in sErBia, noVi saD Radnička 20a, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 48 96 305, 48 96 302 novi-sad@natureprotection.org.rs www.natureprotection.org.rs gaLLEriEs MaTiCa srPsKa gaLLErY Trg galerija 1, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 48 99 000 galerijamaticesrpske@sbb.rs www.galerijamaticesrpske.rs THE MEMoriaL CoLLECTion oF PaVLE BELJansKi Trg galerije 2, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 528 185 kontakt@pavle-beljanski.museum www.pavle-beljanski.museum FinE arT gaLLErY – MEMoriaL CoLLECTion oF raJKo MaMuziĆ Vase Stajića 1, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 520 467, 520 223 glurm@nadlanu.com www.galerijamamuzic.org.rs CounTrY rEsToranTs (saLaŠi) saLaŠ 137 Međunarodni put 137, Čenej Tel: +381 21 714 505, +381 21 714 501, +381 62 773 137 www.salas137.rs info@salas137.rs saLaŠ 84 Stari žabaljski put Tel: +381 21 445 993, +381 21 6411229 salas84@neobee.rs naŠ saLaŠ Međunarodni put 325, Čenej Tel: +381 21 714 704, +381 64 873 91 01

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HoTELs 5* ParK Novosadskog sajma 35 Tel: +381 21 4888 888 Fax: +381 21 4888 885 www.hotelparkns.com info@hotelparkns.com 5* LEoPoLD i Petrovadinska tvrdjava Tel: +381 21 488 7878 Fax: +381 21 4887 877 www.leopoldns.com office@leopoldns.com 4* aLEKsanDar Bulevar Cara Lazara 79 Tel: +381 21 480 44 44, +381 21 480 44 84 Fax: +381 21 480 44 44 www.hotelaleksandar.rs office@hotelaleksandar.rs 4* PrEziDEnT Futoški put 109 Tel: +381 21 487 74 44 Fax: +381 21 662 43 33 www.presidenthotel.com gm@president.com marketing@president.com 3* saJaM Hajduk Veljkova 11 Tel: +381 21 420-266 Fax: +381 21 420-266 www.hotelsajam.co.rs htpsajam@eunet .rs 3* VoJVoDina Trg Slobode 2 Tel: +381 21 6622 122 Fax: +381 21 66 15 445 vojvodinahtl@neobee.net 3* noVi saD Bulevar Jaše Tomića bb Tel: +381 21 442-511 Fax: +381 21 443-072 www.hotelnovisad.rs hupns@neobee.net 3* norCEV Elektrovojvodina, Iriški venac, Partizanski put bb Tel: +381 21 48 00 222 Fax: +381 21 48 00 256

www.norcev.rs 3* zEniT Zmaj Jovina 10 Tel: +381 21 66 21 444 Fax: +381 21 6621 327 www.hotelzenit..rs 3* PanoraMa Futoška 1a Tel: +381 21 4801 800 www.hotelpanorama.co.rs panorama@neobee.net 3* ELiT Bulevar Jovana Dučića 35 Tel: +381 21 488 5888 Fax: +381 21 488 5889 www.hotelelite.rs office@elitecentar.rs 2* FiTnEss gYMnas Teodora Pavlovića 28 Tel: +381 21 467 710, +381 21 467-656 Fax: +381 21 474 07 04 www.gymnas.co.rs gymnas@neobee.net 2* MEDiTEranEo Ilije Ognjanovića 10 Tel: +381 21 427 135 www.hotelmediteraneo.rs mediteraneo@sbb.rs 2* riMsKi Jovana Cvijića 26 Tel: +381 21 444 765 Fax: +381 21 443-237 www.rimski.co.rs rimski@eunet.rs aurora Beogradski kej 49, Tel: +381 21 487 14 00 Fax: +381 21 540 869 www.hotelaurora.rs arTa BouTiQE HoTEL Heroja Pinkija 12 Tel: +381 21 68 04 500 www.boutiquhotelarta.rs e-mail:office@boutiquehotelarta.rs

www.visitserbia.org

D JE E P A DVE A O R F NT OF

URE

OFF ROAD ADVENTURE ON THE SLOPES OF FRUSKA GORA MOUNTAIN One day - on request

We provide rides with the old-timer jeeps (produced in 1941). On the bank of the Danube on pontoon we will serve you with breakfast and drinks. Than we will ride in the jeep along the Danube through Sremski Karlovci (we can also arrange a visit to Sremski Karlovci on demand). Over the Strazilovo, we drive through the forest road to the monastery Grgeteg, where lies the paleontological findings of the Pannonian Sea coast. Across the slopes of Fruska Gora Mountain we ride to the monastery Velika Remeta, which has the highest tower in the Srem and Byzantine iconostasis. Then we ride next to the famous spring Ubavca through orchards, vineyards, valleys... and we go to the famous monastery Krušedol. In return to Čortanovce we will vsit the spring of Kozarica and excavations of the Roman city of Castrum Herkulus. We finish the 50 kilometers ride on the pontoon with lunch, homemade cakes, wine and juices made in the village. At the end of the day we go boating on the Danube in order to enjoy the sunset brings the Danube and the nature around him. People can spend the night on a pontoon (3 persons), and there is a possibility of accommodation in the homes of the restaurant "Just like at home".

More information: • Group can range from 3 to 20 guests. Minimum for realization is 3 pax.

Pricing information: Price per person: 45 EUR

• Jeep ride would be along forest roads providing a special excitement and experience with the possibility of continuous recording with photo and video camera. • Transportation to the starting point is not included, but we can arrange it on demand.

PRICE 45 €

Price includes: • Breakfast • Lunch • domestic drinks during lunch • jeep ride up to 50km • Sightseeing Sr. Karlovac • Strazilovo • Fruska Gora Mountain • Monastery • springs Price does not include: • Other costs not offered in this program

RESERVATIONS AND INFORMATION

RECEPTIO DESK OF YOUR HOTEL - or @ VisitSerbia.org office RECEPTION Novi Sad - No.7 Pasiceva Street, Serbia +381(0)21-47-24-088 www.visitserbia.org E-mail: excursions@visitserbia.org

TOS recOmmendS | A weekend in VršAc

BEAUTIFUL TOWN A trip to Vršac involves meeting a long and turbulent history, rich tradition, exceptional art, ubiquitous nature and unique culture... And all this is probably even more interesting when taken with a sip of fine wine from the Vršac vineyards.

lthough written 165 years ago, three words of one of Vršac’s most famous locals, Jovan Popović Sterija, still quite accurately determine this town. They say: “Vršac, beautiful town.” This is certainly the first impression of our editorial staff’s visit to Vršac. The second impression completes the first one – Vršac is also an unusually quiet town. despite many events and a normal everyday urban life, which means that life is pulsating in all its forms, time here is not ticking, but rather passes at an unusually slower pace. everything is somehow just sufficiently in motion to ensure that one can quite clearly observe the architecture of the city, its colours, smells, tastes and people who completely independently carry that indel-

ible mark of Vojvodina - in this case Banat. As Banat, they say, is not a matter of geographical definition, Banat is a mentality. THE TOWN UNDER A TOWER many old buildings of various styles, churches and cultural institutions, preserve one of the oldest traditions of the towns of Serbia. This “Town under a Tower”, with 40,000 inhabitants, is one of Banat’s most beautiful towns. it is located in northeast Serbia or southeast Vojvodina at the edge of the Pannonian Plain, in the foothills and slopes of the mountains of Vršac. Part of the municipality of Vršac occupies an area of the deliblato Sands nature reserve, also known as the european Sahara.

if we are searching for the characteristics of this town, one is clearly evident: above the town, slowly, climbing like a foam wave along its slopes, rises the Vršac Hill. it is dominated by the Vršac Tower, erected in the early 15th century. This guard tower is the only relic of the former fortress that can now be identified only by the remains of its foundations. made of stone and brick, the tower bears the characteristics of the Byzantine masonry method and it is assumed to have been erected by Serbian despot Đurađ. The external staircase leads to the second of three floors, which reach a height of 20 metres. The tower is in the final stage of reconstruction, which will both preserve it and certainly add to the importance of its tourism attractions. near

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Vršac architecture is dominated by Baroque and Secession: Vojvođanska Banka building the tower is an information point of the Tourism Organisation of Vršac, where one can obtain all necessary information, as well as good suggestions on how to spend your trip to the mountain of Vršac in the best way possible. if you continue to walk down to the east you will find several vantage points overlooking the city. The main road to the east leads to the lodge on the široki Bil (wide ridge), the starting point for walking tours of the Vršac mountains. WINDOWS WITH A VEW Vršac’s architecture is rich with a variety of styles that carry the determinants of the city’s history, most notably Baroque and Secession styles. The atmosphere of Vršac’s streets is com-

pleted by kibic Fensters, windows that go out into space and from where maidens used to cast shy glances at passersby. Save kovačevića Square, the city’s former centre of trade and handicrafts, has been transformed into a pleasant pedestrian area that is today surrounded by several interesting buildings. To the right of the famous “Pharmacy on the Staircase” is the small romanian church of St. Saviour, erected in a blended style and dominated by Byzantine elements and yellow clinker brick. The Bishop’s court, as an exceptional heritage site of Vršac, is a topic of a special text, but in its immediate vicinity there stands an Orthodox cathedral church dedicated to Saint nikola. This

temple was built in 1785 and its interior was decorated by many prominent Serbian artists: Pavel Đurković – who painted the iconostasis, nikola nešković – who painted the freestanding icons, and Paja Jovanović – with his two large canvases. Vršac’s tallest and most impressive building is certainly its roman catholic church – the cathedral whose twin towers can easily be seen from afar. This impressive neo-Gothic edifice, dedicated to St. Gerhard, was constructed from 1860 to 1863 according to the plans of local architect Francis Brandeis. its rich sculptural decoration is generally only in the higher zones of the towers and around the portals and windows. inside, the three church naves end

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with three altars, of which the central one was painted in 1863 by karl Geiger, professor of the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts. This is one of the most beautiful and biggest catholic churches in the area. Archaeological items from rich sites, with exhibits around the town, can be seen at the Vršac national museum. This includes an ethnographic collection and a large number of works of art from the 19th and 20th centuries. A special segment of the museum is dedicated to the life and work of Paja Jovanović and Jovan Popović Sterija.

The first exhibition of Vršac wine was held at the inn At the two keys (kod dva ključa) in 1857. in the late 19th century there were more than 10,000 hectares of vineyards in Vršac. Such tradition guarantees quality and the Vršac Wine Trail gives so much that it is the city’s must-see place. The St. Theodore wine military order is active in Vršac and was named after the patron of the city. Vršac vintage, popularly known as “Grožđebal” (Grape Ball), has a long tradition and is held annually on the third weekend in September,

LANDSCAPE UNDER VINEYARDS choosing another landscape of Vršac, we let our view be deceived by the vastness of the Vršac vineyards. Like Provencal vineyards, they too reach up towards the sky and the sun this may, indicating a good harvest. The grapevine has been cultivated here from the time of the dacians and the romans to the present-day. it was noted that in 1494 the Palace of then Hungarian king Ladislaus ii bought a barrel of Vršac wine for 10.5 gold florins.

INTEREsTING sITEs OF THE VRŠAc AREA Be sure to visit the nearby Mesić Monastery, one of the most beautiful monasteries in the South Banat district. Moreover, the Vršac mountains nature park is an interesting picnic spot. Vršac mountains’ Gudurica peak is the highest peak in the whole of Vojvodina. Another jewel of this region is the vast Deliblato Sands nature reserve, the only ‘desert’ in Europe. Also be sure to visit and take a swim in the clean and airy lakes of nearby Bela Crkva.

Cathedral dedicated to Saint Gerhard

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INFO: Vršac Tourist Organisaton Turistička organizacija Vršca Trg pobede 1, 26300 Vršac tel: +381 (0)13 832 999, +381 (0)13 831 055 tel/fax: +381 (0)13 838 050 www.to.vrsac.com e-mail: toovrsac@yahoo.com

while Vinofest (wine fest), a fair of wine, vintners and wine accessories, is also a tradition. Today this entire region, where the Vršac mountains and the mild Banat plain touch, is under vineyards and represents one of the major wine-growing regions of Serbia. The many top quality wines of the region include, most notably, Otonel muscat, chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, rhine and italian riesling, while table wines Banat riesling, italian riesling, Smederevka, Župljanka and kreaca are also very popular. when excellent local wine is accompanied by some of the local specialties, with everything else that we’ve mentioned on offer and the awareness that we have not mentioned many pleasant parts of the Vršac offer, the city fully satisfies all the “hunger” of potential tourists, inviting them through the streams of this story to new searches, discoveries and enjoyment. Dragana MarKoVić photographs: Dragan BoSnić

Monument to Jovan Sterija Popović

T O S

P r e P O r u č u J e

V i k e n d

V r š c u

LEPA VAROŠ Putovanje u Vršac podrazumeva susret sa dugom i burnom istorijom, bogatom tradicijom, izuzetnom umetnošću, sveprisutnom kulturom i neponovljivom prirodom... A sve je to verovatno još zanimljivije odmeriti uz gutljaj dobrog vina iz vršačkih vinograda.

ako su napisane još pre 165 godina, tri reči jednog od čuvenih žitelja Vršca Jovana Sterije Popovića i danas sasvim tačno određuju grad. One kažu: „Vršac lepa varoš.“ To je sasvim izvesno prvi utisak i sa naše redakcijske posete Vršcu. drugi utisak upotpunjuje prvi – Vršac je i neobično mirna varoš. uprkos mnogobrojnim događanjima, normalnoj gradskoj svakodnevici koja podrazumeva puls života u svim njegovim oblicima, tu vreme neobično sporo teče, a ne otkucava. Sve je nekako taman toliko u pokretu da se sasvim jasno uočavaju arhitektura grada, njegove boje, mirisi i ukusi, te ljudi, koji suvereno nose taj prepoznatljivi pečat Vojvodine. u ovom slučaju Banata. Jer

Banat, kažu, nije stvar geografskog određenja. Banat je mentalitet. GRAD POD KULOM Brojna stara zdanja raznovrsnih stilova, crkve i kulturne institucije, čuvaju jednu od najstarijih tradicija među srpskim gradovima. „Grad pod kulom“, sa 40.000 stanovnika, jedan je od najlepših banatskih gradova. nalazi se u severoistočnom delu Srbije, odnosno jugoistočnom delu Vojvodine, uz rub Panonske nizije, u podnožju i na obroncima Vršačkih planina. deo teritorije opštine Vršac zauzima prostor prirodnog rezervata „deliblatska peščara“, poznate i kao „evropska Sahara“. Ako tragamo za obeležjima grada, jedno

je jasno. nad gradom koji se lagano, poput pene talasa, penje uz njegove obronke, uzdiže se Vršački breg. na njemu dominira Vršačka kula. Podignuta početkom 15. veka, ta branič kula jedini je ostatak nekadašnje tvrđave koja se danas može prepoznati samo po ostacima temelja. Sačinjena od kamena i opeke, kula nosi odlike vizantijskog načina zidanja, pa ju je, pretpostavlja se, podigao despot Đurađ. Spoljašnje stepenište vodi do drugog, od ukupno tri sprata, koji dostižu visinu od 20 metara. kula je upravo u završnoj fazi rekonstrukcije, koja će je očuvati i svakako joj dodati i značaj turističke atrakcija. u neposrednoj blizini kule je info-pult Turističke organizacije Vršca, u

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najviša i najupečatljivija građevina Vršca svakako je njegova rimokatolička crkva – katedrala, čija se dva tornja lako mogu uočiti još izdaleka. To impresivno neogotičko zdanje, posvećeno Svetom Gerhardu, podignuto je 1860–1863, na osnovu planova lokalnog arhitekte Franca Brandajsa. Bogata skulptoralna dekoracija nalazi se uglavnom tek u višim zonama tornjeva i oko portala i prozora. u unutrašnjosti tri broda crkve završavaju trima oltarima, od kojih je središnji 1863. oslikao karl Gajger, profesor Bečke akademije lepih umetnosti. Jedna je od najlepših i najvećih katoličkih crkava na ovim prostorima. u vršačkom narodnom muzeju mogu se videti arheološki eksponati sa bogatih nalazišta oko grada, etnografska zbirka i veliki broj umetničkih dela iz 19. i 20. veka. Poseban deo muzeja posvećen je životu i radu Paje Jovanovića i Jovana Sterije Popovića.

kome možete dobiti sve potrebne informacije i valjane predloge da izlet na Vršačkim planinama provedete što sadržajnije. Ako nastavite šetnju ka istoku, naići ćete na nekoliko vidikovaca sa pogledom na grad. Glavni put na istok vodi do planinarskog doma na širokom bilu, polazne tačke za pešačke ture po Vršačkim planinama. PROZORI SA POGLEDOM Arhitektura Vršca obiluje različitim stilovima koji nose odrednice istorije grada, a među njima su najčešći barok i secesija. Atmosferu vršačkih ulica upotpunjuju kibic fensteri, prozori koji izlaze u prostor, sa kojih su gospođice u ranija vremena krišom i sramežljivo posmatrale prolaznike. Trg Save kovačevića, nekadašnje središte trgovine i zanatstva, danas je pretvoren u ugodnu pešačku zonu, okruženu nekolicinom zanimljivih zdanja. desno od čuvene „Apoteke na stepenicama“ nalazi se rumunska crkvica Svetog Spasa, podignuta u mešavini stilova, među kojima dominiraju vizantijski elementi, ali i žuta klinker opeka. Vladičanski dvor, kao izuzetna baština Vršca, tema je posebnog teksta, ali se u njegovoj neposrednoj blizini nalazi pravoslavna Saborna crkva, posvećena Svetom nikoli. Taj hram podig-

nut je 1785, a njegovu unutrašnjost ukrašavali su mnogi istaknuti srpski umetnici: Pavel Đurković – koji je oslikao ikonostas, nikola nešković – čije su slobodnostojeće ikone, te Paja Jovanović – sa svoja dva velika platna.

PEJZAŽ POD VINOGRADIMA Birajući još jednu odrednicu Vršca, puštamo da nas pogled zavede prostranstvom vršačkih vinograda. Poput provansalskih, i oni se ovog maja uspravljaju ka nebu i suncu, nagoveštavajući dobru berbu. Od dačana i rimljana do danas tu se uzgaja vinova loza. Vršac is famous for its vineyards and wine cellars

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Vršac tower – city symbol

Zabeleženo je da je 1494. godine dvor ugarskog kralja Ladislava drugog kupio bure vršačkog vina za 10,5 zlatnih forinti. Prva izložba vina u Vršcu održana je u kafani „kod dva ključa“, 1857. godine. krajem 19. veka u Vršcu je bilo više od 10.000 ha vinograda. Takva tradicija garantuje kvalitet, a vršački vinski put toliko sadržaja da je nezaobilazno mesto turističke ponude grada. u Vršcu deluje i vinski viteški red „Sveti Teodor“, koji je

A view of the city from Vršački Breg

ime dobio po zaštitniku grada. Vršačka berba, poznata u narodu kao „Grožđebal“, ima dugu tradiciju, održava se svake godine, trećeg vikenda u septembru, a tradicionalan je i „Vinofest“ – sajam vina, vinogradara i vinogradarske opreme. danas se ceo taj kraj, gde se dodiruju Vršačke planine i blaga banatska ravnica, nalazi pod vinogradima i predstavlja jedan od najznačajnijih Monastery of Mesić

vinogradarskih rejona u Srbiji. među mnogim vrhunskim i kvalitetnim vinima tog regiona izdvajaju se muskat otonel, šardone, pino bjanko, rajnski i italijanski rizling, a veoma je popularno stono vino banatski rizling od sorti italijanski rizling, smederevka, župljanka i kreaca. Ako se gutljaju odličnog vina doda i neki od lokalnih specijaliteta, uz sve pomenute sadržaje, i svest da mnoge u ovom tekstu nismo uspeli ni da pomenemo, Vršac potpuno zaokružuje „gladi“ svakog potencijalnog turiste, pozivajući rukavcima ove priče na nova traganja, otkrivanja i uživanja. Dragana MarKoVić fotografije: Dragan BoSnić ZANImLJIVOsTI U OkOLINI VRŠcA Obavezno posetite obližnji manastir Mesić, jedan od najlepših u južnobanatskom okrugu. Takođe, zanimljivo izletničko mesto je park prirode Vršačke planine. Na Vršačkim planinama nalazi se Gudurički vrh, najviši vrh u čitavoj Vojvodini . Još jedan prirodni dragulj ovog kraja je prostrani prirodni rezervat Deliblatske peščara, jedine peščare na tlu Evrope. Takođe, ne propustite obilazak i kupanje na čistim i prozračnim Belocrkvanskim jezerima.

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TOS recOmmendS – ArTiSTic HeriTAGe OF SerBiA THe BiSHOP ’S cOurT OF THe diOceSe OF BAnAT in VršAc

TREAsURY OF ART AND TRADITION Dvorska (court) street in Vršac was named after the Bishop’s court (Vladičanski dvor), which is located at number 20 and surrounded by a park encircled by a French Baroque fence. The palace was built in 1762 at the time of Bishop Jovan Georgijević. The bishop obtained a building permit from the court of Austrian Empress maria Theresa and the structure was meant to be the residence of the Bishops of Banat, which it has remained to this day.

he palace has been restored several times, most recently in 1904, when its façade was remodelled in a richer neo-renaissance and neo-Baroque style. The court’s extraordinary treasure is its chapel, dedicated to the Holy Archangels michael and Gabriel and built in the 18th century with a beautiful baroque iconostasis. The iconostasis is atypical, made of hard material – as opposed to the usual practice of iconostases made of carved wood. This iconostasis

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was painted by nikola nešković from Vršac, grandfather of Jovan Sterija Popović. He was sent by Bishop Georgijević to the academy in kiev and upon his return to Vršac he painted the iconostasis of the court chapels. The part of the iconostasis above the left and right doors is interesting and rare - showing the painted genealogy of Jesus christ, through the Old Testament, according to the Gospel. From Abraham to king david, 14 knees, from king david to Babel, 14 knees, and from Babel to Jesus christ, 14 knees.

At the top of the iconostasis and the foot of the cross are painted bones, a paraphrase of Golgotha or, translated, the bone hill, above is the crucifix and at the top there is the resurrection, as the essence of christianity – a victory over death. A MIRACULOUS ICON FROM VINČA in the chapel rests the miraculous icon of the Holy mother Virgin, called Vinčanska or Bezdinska, according to the names of the monasteries where

it was held. it is known that in the 18th century this icon came from one of the kiev monasteries; that it was held in several monasteries and that since 1931 it has been in the Bishop’s court. it is assumed to have been painted in the period between the 15th and 16th centuries. The chapel is authentic, with a few minor interventions mainly due to the moisture that was collected in the lower part of the iconostasis. Only the royal doors are a replica of the original, which is preserved. The chapel is exposed to the canonical icon of Saint Theodore of Vršac and in the Bishop’s chapel there is a painting, Heavenly Jerusalem, by an unknown painter, in the spirit of the Levant Baroque. The court also preserves a collection of portraits of church

PHARmAcY ON THE sTAIRcAsE

dignitaries, icons, old books and religious vessels. A total of 292 icons dating from the 18th and 19th centuries are stored in the court treasury. The collection includes works of šerban Popović, Teodor ilić češljar, konstantin Pantelić, nedeljko Popović, nikola nešković and other famous painters. This valuable collection has been processed in a catalogue by the institute for the Protection of cultural monuments and matica Srpska from novi Sad. COURT AS A MUSEUM The entire Bishop’s residence is also a kind of exhibition area, with rare and valuable works of art

On the corner of Vršac’s Kumanovka and Stefana Nemanje streets there is an old pharmacy building known as the Pharmacy on the staircase. The house dates back to the 18th century and since 1784 marked the site of the oldest pharmacy in Vršac “At the Savior’s”. The building retained this purpose until 1971, when it was adjoined to the City Museum. The original façade was transformed according to the classicist understanding from the mid-19th century: a high roof on two floors where medicinal herbs were dried, a large basement for storage of supplies and, of course, a small staircase leading to the entrance. Today this is the house of permanent exhibitions: “From the history of medicinal culture of southern Banat”, “Remembrance of Paja Jovanović” – an exhibition dedicated to the memory of the great painter, with several of his valuable works on display, including a representative portrait of King Aleksandar Karađorđević, an archaeological collection “From the History of the Middle Ages” and a separate room with medals from the collections of the Museum.

from the 18th and 19th centuries. The first portrait of the Bishop of Vršac was painted in 1763 in the Baroque style. it was a work of Viennese painter Johan michel Vaagner. it is a life-size image of Bishop Jovan Georgijević (Đorđević). it is extremely representative and the bishop’s office contains 14 portraits of Vršac, Banat and other bishops of the Serbian Orthodox church. The Gallery of portraits of Bishops of Banat is located in the lobby of the court, while the small dining room holds icons on canvas of St. nicholas, St. George, Holy Healers and St. demetrius – the work of uroš Predić. court furniture belongs to the most representative pieces of period furniture and set furniture. mostly in the spirit of the Baroque and Biedermeier styles, this furniture is in perfect harmony with the interior. The court Library has several thousand books and archival materials. Vršac and Banat bishops had their own chapel painters, many of whom were often precious advisors and friends. This collaboration of artists and bishops turned the Bishop’s court into a museum, whose treasure is available to the public, to our great delight. Dragana MarKoVić photographs: Dragan BoSnić and courtesy of the archives of the Bishop’s Court

Episcopal office

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TOS PrePOručuJe – umeTničkO nASLeĐe SrBiJe VLAdičAnSki dVOr ePArHiJe BAnATSke u Vršcu

RIZNIcA UmETNOsTI I TRADIcIJE Dvorska ulica u Vršcu dobila je ime prema Vladičanskom dvoru, koji se nalazi unutar broja 20, okružen francuskim parkom zatvorenim baroknom ogradom. Dvor je izgrađen 1762. godine u vreme vladike Jovana Georgijevića. Vladika je dozvolu za gradnju dobio od carice marije Terezije, a predviđeno je da to bude rezidencija banatskih episkopa, kako je i do danas.

vor je prepravljan u više navrata, poslednji put 1904. godine, kada mu je pročelje prerađeno u bogatijem neorenesansnom i neobaroknom stilu. izuzetnu njegovu vrednost čini kapela,

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posvećena Svetim arhanđelima mihailu i Gavrilu, iz 18. veka, sa izvanrednim baroknim ikonostasom. ikonostas je netipičan, rađen od tvrdog materijala (obično su ikonostasi rađeni u rezbarenom drvetu), a oslikao ga je Vrščanin, slikar nikola nešković, inače deda Jovana Sterije Popovića. njega je vladika Georgijević poslao u kijev na akademiju, a posle povratka u Vršac on je oslikao ikonostas dvorske kapele. Zanimljiv je i redak deo ikonostasa gde je

iznad levih i desnih vrata oslikan rodoslov Gospoda isusa Hrista, kroz Stari zavet, po Jevanđelju. Od Avrama do cara davida 14 kolena, od cara davida do Vavilona 14 kolena i od Vavilona do isusa Hrista 14 kolena. u vrhu ikonostasa, a u podnožju raspeća, naslikane su kosti, parafraza na Golgotu, ili u prevodu brdo kostiju, iznad je raspeće, a u samom vrhu vaskrsenje, kao suština hrišćanstva – pobeda nad smrću. ČUDOTVORNA IKONA VINČANSKA u kapeli je i čudotvorna ikona Presvete majke Bogorodice, zvana Vinčanska ili Bezdinska, po imenima manastira u kojima je boravila. Zna se da je u 18. veku ta ikona došla iz nekog od kijevskih manastira, da je bila u nekoliko manastira i da se od 1931. godine nalazi u Vladičanskom dvoru. Pretpostavlja se da je živopisana između 15. i 16. veka. kapela je autentična, sa nekoliko manjih intervencija nastalih uglavnom zbog vlage koja se skupljala u donjem delu ikonostasa, jedino su carske dveri replika originala koji je konzerviran.

u kapeli je izložena i kanonska ikona Svetog Teodora Vršačkog, a u vladičanskom paraklisu nalazi se i platno „nebeski Jerusalim”, rad nepoznatog slikara, u duhu levantinskog baroka. u dvoru se čuva i bogata zbirka portreta crkvenih velikodostojnika, ikona, starih knjiga i crkvenih

sasuda. u dvorskoj riznici pohranjene su 292 ikone koje potiču iz 18. i 19. veka. u zbirci su dela šerbana Popovića, Teodora ilića češljara, konstantina Pantelića, nedeljka Popovića, nikole neškovića i drugih poznatih slikara zografa. Tu vrednu zbirku kataloški su obradili Zavod za zaštitu spomenika kulture i matica srpska iz novog Sada.

na uglu ulica Kumanovske i Stevana Nemanje u Vršcu nalazi se zdanje Stare apoteke znano i kao „Apoteka na stepenicama”. Kuća potiče iz sredine 18. veka a od 1784. ovde radi najstarija vršačka apoteka „Kod Spasitelja”. Ovu namenu zdanje je zadržalo do 1971, kada je priključeno Gradskom muzeju. Prvobitna fasada preoblikovana je u skladu sa klasicističkim shvatanjima sredinom 19. veka: visok krov na dva sprata, na kojem su se sušile lekovite biljke, veliki podrum za skladištenje zaliha i, naravno, male stepenice koje vode do ulaza. Danas su tu smeštene stalne izložbe: „Iz istorije zdravstvene kulture južnog Banata”, „Sećanje na Paju Jovanovića” – postavka posvećena uspomeni na slavnog slikara, koja poseduje nekoliko njegovih vrednih dela, među njima i reprezentativni portret kralja Aleksandra Karađorđevića, arheološka zbirka „Od istorije do srednjeg veka”, a tu je i posebna prostorija u kojoj su predstavljene medalje iz zbirki Muzeja.

DVOR KAO MUZEJ čitava vladičanska rezidencija takođe je svojevrsna izložba retkih i vrednih umetničkih dela iz 18. i 19. veka. Prvi portret vršačkih episkopa nastao je 1763. godine u baroknom stilu. izveo ga je bečki slikar Johan mihel Vagner. na njemu je u prirodnoj veličini prikazan episkop Jovan Georgijević (Đorđević). izuzetno je reprezentativan i kabinet episkopa u kome se u drvenom frizu nalaze portreti 14 vršačkih, banatskih i drugih arhijereja Srpske pravoslavne crkve. Galerija portreta banatskih episkopa u holu je dvora, dok se u maloj trpezariji nalaze ikone na platnu Svetog nikole, Svetog Georgija, Svetih Vrača i Svetog dimitrija – rad uroša Predića. dvorski nameštaj je reprezentativni komadni i garniturni nameštaj. Pretežno u duhu baroka i bidermajer stila, taj nameštaj je u savršenom skladu sa enterijerom. dvorska biblioteka poseduje nekoliko hiljada knjiga i arhivske građe. Vršački i banatski episkopi imali su svoje pridvorne slikare, a mnogi od njih često su bili dragoceni savetnici i prijatelji. Ta saradnja umetnika i episkopa pretvorila je Vladičanski dvor u svojevrstan muzej, čije blago je, na našu veliku radost, dostupno i široj javnosti.

APOTEkA NA sTEPENIcAmA

Dragana MarKoVić fotografije: Dragan BoSnić i arhiva Vladičanskog dvora

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FROM DAWN TIL DAWN Niš is one of the oldest cities in the Balkans. Famous for its serene southern spirit, good entertainment and excellent food, the city is located on the map of precious ancient heritage and is known as the hometown of Emperor Constantine the Great. The heart of the old city, with the Fortress and Kazandžijsko sokače (Coppersmith’s Alley), are just some of the must-see points for explorers of the city. You are looking at one of the tourist itineraries that will take you through the city from dawn to dusk and through to a new dawn and you can start or finish the itinerary at random. BUREK FOR A GOOD MORNING Originally burek was a Turkish dish that became localised in the countries of the Balkans and the Mediterranean during the expansion of the Ottoman Empire. In Serbia burek means a dish made from pastry that is thrown into the air to make layers of dough which are then filled with minced meat or cheese. The recipe for circular burek first arrived in Niš back in 1498, brought from Istanbul by famous Turkish baker Mehmed Oglu. There are a few confirmed bakeries in the city where you can taste delicious authentic burek. Choose from a list of Niš’s top five bakeries – four are located on Vožda Karađorđa Street: “MBN” at

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number 13, “Srbijanka” at number 24, “Branković” at number 68 and “Mićko” at number 76a. You can turn your morning walk along Vožda Karađorđa Street into a kind of burek tour, tasting the nuances of perfected baker’s skills. The fifth on the list of best bakeries is another “Srbijanka” sandwich shop located outside of the city centre near Skull Tower. Every September the city organises its Days of Burek event to present various versions of this speciality. COFFEE AT KAZANDŽIJSKO SOKAČE The city centre includes entire neighbourhoods known as zones of good entertainment. Events

begin in the morning and last until late at night. The liveliest is in Kazandžijsko Sokače and the best time of the day for coffee and refreshments is the period from noon until 2p.m., when Sokače is at its liveliest. The authentic Turkish atmosphere of Niš is represented by a preserved part of the old handicraft bazaar. An unusual certificate that can serve as a guide is displayed at the entrance to Kazandžisko Sokače. Here you’ll see a bronze sculpture of two men sitting at a café table chatting and accompanied by a dog. The characters are Serbian writer Stevan Sremac and legendary hunter Kalča, the writer’s literary hero. The table includes a glass and shot glass for rakia, while the hunter’s

dog, Čapa, sits under the table. Kalča has a vivid imagination and passionately narrates his imaginary hunting exploits. Unrestrained, imaginative and immensely entertaining, Kalča became and remained a popular hero of the city. It is no coincidence that this monument stands at the “gate” to the Bohemian quarter, where you will best feel the pulsing heart of Niš. EARLY AFTERNOON We recommend that you continue your visit of the city with a walk down Obrenovićeva Street. Among the beautiful buildings your eyes will be attracted by the house of merchant Andonović – an opulent architectural structure built between the two world wars. Walk on to Čair Park, the city’s central green oasis. The residents of Niš call it the Garden, which is actually a translation of the Turkish word çayir. Čair Park is impressive in terms of size and is decorated by groves of high poplar trees, Lombardy poplars and plane trees. There are several cafés on Čairska Street, next to the park, where “fancy Niš locals” spend their time and have fun. Between early and late afternoon you can stop right there and take some refreshment. THREE PROPOSALS FOR THE AFTERNOON An organised afternoon tour of the city can be spent in three ways: the first, from the tourist itineraries, will present you with the earliest history of the city – from the prehistoric and roman periods. Niš is known as the birthplace and hometown of roman Emperor Constantine the Great. The romans conquered this region at the beginning of

the new era (A.D.) and named the town Naissus. The tour presenting the prehistoric and roman era begins at the National Museum. The museum’s Archaeological Hall includes numerous exhibits dating from the Neolithic Period to the Middle Ages. The most important roman archaeological site is located at Medijana, a site dating back to the 4th century A.D. Medijana is located a few kilometres from the city centre along the ancient Via Militaris roman road. The former imperial summer residence testifies of the richness and superb artistic achievements of the imperial city of Naissus. FIVE CENTURIES OF OTTOMAN RULE The second chronological itinerary will take you to the Ottoman period. Niš Fortress, the symbol of the city, is one of the most beautiful and best preserved Turkish military fortifications in the central Balkans. Destroyed and rebuilt many times, it gained its final form in 1723, just before the end of Ottoman rule. The fortress boasts important monuments from different periods and a summer theatre that plays host to the traditional Festival of Actors’ Achievements, musical festivals and other cultural events. Čegar hill, near Niš, marks the site of a major battle of the First Serbian Uprising in 1809. There stands a monument erected to honour the fallen Serbian soldiers and their commander Stevan Sinđelić. This bloody battle between the Serbs and the Turks is symbolised by one of the most terrifying monuments on the territory of Europe: Skull Tower. Ottoman commander Huršid Pasha of Niš lost 10,000 soldiers in the Battle of Čegar, which

Monument to Stevan Sremac and Kalča

prompted him to angrily order that the heads of the killed rebels be used to build a tower, in an attempt to intimidate the Serbs once and for all. Thus arose this horrible testament to the cruelty of war, which soon turned into a monument to freedom. WORLD WAR II The third itinerary is closest to us in terms of time and takes us to the period of World War II. During the tour you will learn about the shocking monuments from the time of the German occupation of Niš – the Concentration Camp located in the red Cross (Crveni Krst) district and the Bubanj Memorial Park. The camp testified about the suffering of the Serbian, roma and Jewish population, as well as the Communists, numerous supporters of the national liberation movements and partisans, who were detained there during the occupation (1941-1944). At that time the Bubanj Memorial Park was one of the biggest places of execution on the territory of Yugoslavia. It is estimated that between 10,000 and 15,000 people were executed there. The monument to the victims was uncovered on 14th October 1963, on the anniversary of the liberation of Niš. Here ends your day experiencing a brief history of the city and briefly encountering its present. Ahead of you lies the night and a new morning in Niš. BelgUeST In Cooperation with Natalija Živanović, Senior Associate of The Tourism Organisation Of Niš

“Coppersmith’s Alley” (Kazandžijsko Sokače)

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OD S V I TA N J A D O S V I TAN J A

Niš Fortress

Niš je jedan od najstarijih gradova na Balkanu. Poznat je po vedrom južnjačkom duhu, dobrom provodu, izvrsnoj hrani. Grad se nalazi na mapi dragocenog antičkog nasleđa i poznat je kao rodni grad cara Konstantina Velikog. Staro jezgro grada s Tvrđavom i Kazandžijskim sokačetom samo su neke od nezaobilaznih tačaka za upoznavanje grada. Pred vama je jedan od turističkih itinerera koji vas vodi kroz grad od svitanja do sumraka i novog svitanja, a itinerer možete početi ili završiti bilo kojim redom. BUREK ZA DOBRO JUTRO Burek je originalni turski specijalitet koji se, tokom ekspanzije Otomanskog carstva odomaćio u zemljama Balkana i Mediterana. U Srbiji reč burek označava testo koje se bacanjem uvis razvlači u kore koje se potom pune nadevom od mlevenog mesa ili sira. recept za okrugli burek prvi put je stigao u Niš davne 1498. godine. Doneo ga je iz Istambula čuveni turski pekar Mehmed Oglu. U gradu postoji nekoliko pekara u kojima možete probati osvedočeno ukusan autentični burek. Birajte sa liste pet najboljih niških pekara – četiri se nalaze u Ulici vožda Karađorđa: MBN na broju 13, „Srbijanka“ na broju 24, „Branković“ na broju 68 i

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„Mićko“ na broju 76a. Jutarnju šetnju Voždovom ulicom možete pretvoriti u svojevrsnu burekturu, degustirajući nijanse savršenog pekarskog umeća. Peta sa liste najboljih pekara je još jedna buregdžinica „Srbijanke“, koja se nalazi izvan centra grada u blizini Ćele-kule. Inače, svakog septembra u gradu se organizuju „Dani bureka“, na kojima se predstavljaju mnoge verzije tog specijaliteta. KAFA U KAZANDŽIJSKOM SOKAČETU U centru grada postoje čitavi kvartovi koji su poznati kao zone dobrog provoda. Dešavanja počinju u jutarnjim satima i traju do kasno u noć. Najživlje je u Kazandžijskom sokačetu, a najbolje

dnevno vreme za kafu i okrepljenje je od podneva do dva sata popodne, kada je u Sokačetu najživlje. Ta autentična ambijentalna celina turskog Niša očuvani je deo nekadašnje stare zanatlijske čaršije. Na ulazu u Kazandžijsko sokače postavljen je jedan neobičan spomenik, koji vam može poslužiti kao putokaz.Videćete bronzanu skulpturu: dva čoveka koja sede za kafanskim stolom živo razgovarajući i jedan pas. Likovi su srpski književnik Stevan Sremac i legendarni lovac Kalča, Sremčev literarni junak. Na stolu su postavljeni čaša i čokanjče, a podno stola je lovčev pas Čapa. Kalča ima bujnu maštu i s žarom pripoveda o svojim izmišljenim lovačkim podvizima. Neumeren, maštovit i beskrajno zaba-

van, Kalča je postao i ostao omiljeni junak grada. Nije slučajno što taj spomenik stoji na „kapiji“ boemske četvrti grada u kojoj ćete najbolje osetiti damare Niša . RANO POPODNE Preporučujemo da obilazak grada nastavite šetnjom Obrenovićevom ulicom. Među lepim zgradama pogled će vam privući kuća trgovca Andonovića – raskošno arhitektonsko zdanje sagrađeno između dva svetska rata. Prošetajte dalje, do centralne zelene oaze grada, do parka Čair. Nišlije ga zovu Bašta, što je zapravo prevod turske reči Čair. Park je impresivan po svojoj veličini i krase ga šume visokih topola, jablana i platana. U Čairskoj ulici, uz sam park, nalazi se niz kafića, gde se provode „fancy“ Nišlije. Na prelazu između ranog i kasnog popodneva možete zastati baš tu i ponovo se osvežiti. TRI PREDLOGA ZA POPODNE Zamišljeni popodnevni obilazak grada možete provesti na tri načina: prvi od turističkih itinerera upoznaće vas s najranijom istorijom grada – praistorijom i rimskim razdobljem. Niš je poznat kao grad u kojem se rodio i živeo rimski car Konstantin Veliki. Rimljani su pokorili to područje početkom nove ere i gradu dali ime Naisus. Tura upoznavanja sa praistorijom i dobom The Concentration Camp

Rima počinje u Narodnom muzeju. U Arheološkoj sali muzeja izloženi su brojni eksponati od neolita do srednjeg veka. Najznačajnije rimsko arheološko nalazište je na lokalitetu Medijana iz 4. veka n.e. Medijana se nalazi na nekoliko kilometra od centra grada, na drevnom rimskom putu Via militaris. Nekadašnja letnja carska rezidencija svedoči o bogatstvu i vrhunskim umetničkim dometima imperijalnog Naisusa. PET VEKOVA TURSKE VLADAVINE Drugi itinerer hronološki vas pomera u doba Turaka. Niška tvrđava, simbol grada, predstavlja jedno od najlepših i najočuvanijih turskih vojnih zdanja na srednjem Balkanu. Rušena je i obnavljana mnogo puta da bi svoj konačni izgled dobila 1723. godine, pred sam kraj turske vladavine. U tvrđavi se nalaze značajni spomenici iz raznih doba i letnja pozornica u kojoj se tradicionalno održava Festival glumačkih ostvarenja, muzički festivali i drugi kulturni događaji. Na brdu Čegar, nadomak Niša, na mestu gde se 1809. godine odigrala velika bitka Prvog srpskog ustanka, podignut je spomenik izginulim srpskim vojnicima i njihovom komandantu Stevanu Sinđeliću. Za taj krvavi boj između Srba i Turaka vezan je zastrašujući spomenik, najpotresniji na tlu Evrope – Ćele-kula. Niški Huršid paša je u boju na Čegru izgubio 10.000 vojnika i u gnevu naredio da

se glave poginulih ustanika uzidaju u kulu, želeći tako da trajno zastraši Srbe. Tako je nastalo jezivo svedočanstvo ratne surovosti, koje se ubrzo pretvorilo u spomenik slobode. DRUGI SVETSKI RAT Treći itinerer je vremenski najbliži i vodi u doba Drugog svetskog rata. U okviru ture pogledaćete spomenike iz vremena nemačke okupacije Niša – Koncentracioni logor koji se nalazi u naselju Crveni krst i Memorijalni park Bubanj. Logor svedoči o stradanju srpskog, romskog i jevrejskog stanovništva, te komunista, brojnih simpatizera Narodnooslobodilačkog pokreta i partizana, koji su tu bili zatvoreni tokom okupacije (19411944). Memorijalni park Bubanj je tada bio jedno od najvećih stratišta na području Jugoslavije. Procenjuje se da je tu streljano između 10.000 i 15.000 ljudi. Spomenik žrtvama otkriven je 14. oktobra 1963, na Dan oslobođenja Niša. Tu se završava dan u kojem ste proživeli sažetu istoriju grada i dotakli njegovu sadašnjost. Pred vama je noć i novo jutro u Nišu. BELGUEST U saradnji s Natalijom Živanović, višim saradnikom u Turističkoj organizaciji grada Niša

Čegar Memorial Tower

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TOS RECOMMENDS - NišvillE Jazz FESTival 2011

TOP JAZZ EVENT Nišville’s great programme once again awaits you in the fantastic ambience of the Niš Fortress this summer. This celebration of firstclass music and good partying will run from 11th to 14th August, while its major visiting star has been announced as American musician Tom Harrell, who carries the title of a true musical genius. You will also have the chance to hear, see and exchange energy with other famous musicians, such as Hans Dulfer performing alongside his daughter Candy, the magicians of dub productions from Jamaica, blues spectacle by Mango Jerry etc.

išville is deservedly at the forefront of the official cultural and tourism offer of the Tourism Organisation of Serbia (TOS). in a publication entitled The Sounds of Summer in Serbia, intended for foreign tourists, Nišville is promoted - alongside festivals in Guča, Belgrade

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Beer Fest and EXiT - as one of the biggest and most interesting summer music events in the country. Nišville has existed for more than a quarter of a century and boasts the title of the most visited jazz festival in Southeast Europe. With the support of TOS, the Tourism Organisation of the City of Niš

and others, organisers have announced a great programme and some interesting innovations. The main stars of this year’s Niš jazz scene will be Tom Harrell, a multiple winner of every traditional contest for the world’s best jazz musicians. Harrell will be accompanied by the band with

Candy Dulfer, 2009

and Robbie Shakespeare is which he released the album ‘Roman INFO yet another extremely interNights’ this year. The group includes Nišville Jazz Festival esting concert announced saxophonist Wayne Escoffery, pianist Bulevar Dr zorana Đinđića for this year’s festival. Danny Grissett, drummer Jonathan +381 18 235 161 Well-known reggae musiBlake and bassist Ugonna Okegwo e-mail: nisville@nisville.com cians (also one of the most – all of whom are musicians with www.nisville.com famous rhythm sections impressive backgrounds. They will Tourist Organisation of Niš arrive at Nišville straight from the TPC Kalča , lamella C, extension 62 and one of the top producer tandems), drummer Dunbar prestigious North Sea Festival in The +381 18 524877 and bassist Shakespeare Netherlands. e-mail: ton1@nadlanu.com were members of one of the another great star of the programme www.nistourism.org.rs best-known and most origiwill certainly be Hans Dulfer, a Dutch Ticket sale: nal reggae groups, Black tenor saxophonist who is known for www.tickets.rs Uhuru. They will perform nurturing various jazz directions. www.eventim.rs in Niš with their twelveDulfer performs worldwide and is member group, while their particularly popular in the Far East. This brilliant musician and his band, who will be special guest has been announced as Delroy Junior performing in Serbia for the first time, will be Reid, also a former Black Uhuru member. The main stage will also welcome UK group accompanied by his daughter, saxophonist Candy Dulfer, who performed a memorable concert at the Mungo Jerry (best known for their 1970 mega hit In 2009 Nišville Festival. Father and daughter rarely the Summertime), led by front man Ray Dorset and perform together, because of their respective solo featuring the band’s blues programme. american careers, so this concert will be a rare opportunity to tenor saxophonist Rick Margitza is expected to appear as a special guest of the band led by singer enjoy the Dulfer family virtuosity. The concert of Jamaican musicians Sly Dunbar Maya Nova.

HOMAGE TO THE KING OF ROMA MUSIC This year’s festival announces programmes on two new stages. Sixteen jazz and world music bands from Serbia and across Europe will perform from 10th to 13th august at the amphitheatre at the quay near the monument to šaban Bajramović on the River stage. The programme is conceived as a tribute to šaban Bajramović and each group will perform at least one cover of the compositions of the king of Gypsy music. according to the organisers’ idea, the stage will be placed on the River Nišava itself and the audience will follow the programme from the steps on the quay beside the river and from the stands of the amphitheatre

JAZZ SUMMER VACATION FOR 100 EUROS!

This year the festival is again set to offer its visitors from other cities and countries the opportunity of a summer holiday at a very affordable price. Named “Four Days in Niš and Four Nights in Nišville,” the offer includes a set of tickets and full board accommodation in double rooms at student dormitories.

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a BRiEF HiSTORy OF NišvillE JAZZ BOOMERS GENERATIONS

below the monument to šaban Bajramović. Festival organisers have also announced the establishing of a stage to be known as the Piano Stage. This stage will host unique performances - film projections from the silent movie era will be accompanied by the performances of young pianists, who will improvise music to a certain film. There is an idea to call this stage Kristina, after the heroine of the cult Serbian film Marathon Family (Maratonci trče počasni krug). Regardless, the programme of the city’s stages will be immensely interesting and free to the public. Jelena Jovanović photographs: archiveS of the nišville Jazz feStival

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The festival started under the name Nišville in 1995 in the city’s largest hall - the Club of the Army of Serbia. The Festival successively established cooperation with cultural centres and embassies of the United States, the Netherlands, France, Norway, Germany etc. and as its reputation grew so the names of the participants became more and more famous: Reggie Workman, Billy Cobb, Philip Catherine, Aria Hendricks, Miles Griffith, Denise Jannah, Bemshi Shearer... A sort of exclusivity for the Festival was the only joint appearance of the “Queen” and “King” of Gypsy music – Esma Redžepova and Šaban Bajramović. The first period of the festival is remembered for the fantastic jam sessions at the Jazz club, which lasted until morning. For a decade Nišville fulfilled its mission completely, nurturing and gaining a large audience that ensured the city’s biggest concert hall became too small and too crowded. The last edition of the festival in a closed hall was organised in 2005 and by the following year Nišville had changed venue. This was confirmed as the right move the next year, when the festival took place at one of the prettiest, most acoustically attuned and largest open amphitheatres in Europe – the Summer Stage of Niš Fortress. Thus began a new era in the history of jazz events - not just in the south of Serbia, but in this part of Europe. The fact that every night attracted about 3,000

visitors was also practical confirmation of the “aesthetic-physical” laws that “the jazz audience is expanding according to the available space.” The larger space enabled some more popular names to be enticed, among them bands like Incognito and The Brand New Heavies, Larry Coryell, Victor Bailey, Lenny White, Billy Cobham, Dr. Donald Byrd, Milcho Leviev, Niels Peter Molvaer, Duško Gojković, the Rosenberg Trio, Gilles Peterson, Jose James, Sidsel Endresen, Mystery of Bulgarian Voices... At its new venue and as a summer event, Nišville almost immediately became the most attended jazz festival in this part of Europe. Since 2009 the festival still takes place within the fortress, but on a larger open-air location and on several stages, with the audience filling the space to the last seat. The new location has witnessed the performances of Solomon Burke, the Candy Dulfer Band, Mingus Dynasty, Benny Golson, Grace Kelly, Terje Rypdal, Georgie Fame, Manu Dibango, Steve Hackett, De Phazz, Joe “Defunkt” Bowie, Miroslav Vitous, Richard Galliano, Randy Brecker, Incognito and many more. The Nišville festival has been visited by a large number of music lovers from all over Serbia, neighbouring countries and Western Europe. A permanent segment of the festival is a free workshop for young musicians, which includes the participation of almost all participants of the festival and the biggest stars. Branislav Dejanović, PR Manager of Nišville Jazz Festival

TOS PREPORUČUJE - NišvillE Jazz FESTival 2011

VRHUNSKI DŽEZ DOGAĐAJ U fantastičnom ambijentu Niške tvrđave i ovog leta očekuje vas sjajan program Nišvilla. Praznik vrhunske muzike i dobrog provoda traje od 11. do 14. avgusta, a glavna najavljena zvezda je američki muzičar Tom Harel, čovek koji nosi epitet istinskog muzičkog genija. Imaćete priliku da čujete, vidite i razmenite energiju i s drugim poznatim muzičarima kao što su Hansom Dalferom, koji nastupa sa ćerkom Kendi, magovi dub produkcije s Jamajke, bluz spektakl Mango Džerija…

išvill se zasluženo našao u prvom planu zvanične kulturne ponude Turističke organizacije Srbije. U publikaciji pod naslovom „zvuci leta Srbije“ namenjenoj stranim turistima Nišvill je, zajedno s festivalom u Guči, Belgrade Beer Festom i Exitom, promovisan kao jedna od najvećih i najzanimljivijih letnjih muzičkih dešavanja u zemlji. Nišvill postoji već više od četvrt veka i nosi titulu najposećenijeg džez festivala jugoistočne Evrope. Uz podršku TOS, Turističke organizacije grada Niša i drugih, organizatori najavljuju sjajan program i zanimljive inovacije. Glavna zvezda ovogodišnje niške džez pozornice je Tom Harrel, višestruki pobednik u svim tradicionalnim izborima za najbolje svetske džezere. Harel dolazi sa bendom sa kojim je ove godine

objavio album „Roman nights“. U sastavu su saksofonista vejn Eskoferi, klavirista Deni Griset, bubnjar Džonatan Blejk i kontrabasista Ugona Okegvo, sve muzičari sa impresivnim biografijama. Na Nišvill stižu pravo s prestižnog North Sea festivalu u Holandiji.

DŽEZ lETOVANJE ZA 100 EVRA!

I ove godine posetiocima iz drugih gradova i država Festival nudi mogućnost mini letovanja po izuzetno povoljnoj ceni. Pod nazivom „Četiri dana u Nišu i četiri noći na Nišvillu“ u ponudi je komplet ulaznica, smeštaj i pun pansion u dvokrevetnim sobama studentskog doma.

velika zvezda programa biće svakako i Hans Dalfer, holandski tenor saksofonista, koji je poznat po negovanju različitih džez pravaca. Dalfer nastupa širom sveta, a posebnu popularnost uživa na Dalekom istoku. Ovaj sjajni muzičar prvi put gostuje u Srbiji, a s njim i bendom nastupiće i njegova ćerka, saksofonistkinja Kendi Dalfer, koja je 2009. godine na Nišville festivalu održala koncert za pamćenje. Otac i ćerka Dalfer zbog sopstvenih karijera veoma retko nastupaju zajedno, pa će ovaj koncert biti i retka prilika da uživate u porodičnoj virtuoznosti. Jamajkanski muzičari Slaj Danbar i Robi šekspir imaće veoma zanimljiv nastup. Poznati rege muzičari, bubnjar Danbar i basista šekspir, jedan od najtraženijih producentskih tandema, bili su

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članovi poznate i originalne rege grupe Black Uhuru. Na koncertu u Nišu nastupiće sa svojom dvanaestočlanom grupom, a kao specijalni gost najavljen je Delroj Džunior Rid, takođe, nekadašnji član Black Uhuru. Na glavnoj pozornici predstaviće se i bluz grupa Mango Džeri, poznata po mega hitu iz 1970. godine „in the Summertime“, predvođena frontmenom Rej Dorsetom. Očekuje se i američki tenor saksofonista Rik Margica koji će se pojaviti kao specijalni gost sastava koji predvodi pevačica Maja Nova. U SLAVU KRALJA ROMSKE MUZIKE Ovogodišnji Festival najavljuje programe i na dva nova stejdža. Od 10. do 13. avgusta u amfiteatru na keju, kod spomenika šabanu Bajramoviću na stejdžu River, nastupiće šesnaest džez i world music sastava iz Srbije i cele Evrope. Program je osmišljen kao omaž šabanu Bajramoviću, a svaka grupa izvešće obradu bar jedne kompozicije ovog kralja romske muzike. Bina će, po ideji organizatora, biti postavljena na samoj reci Nišavi, a publika će program pratiti sa stepeništa na keju uz samu reku i sa tribina amfiteatra ispod spomenika šabanu Bajramoviću. Organizatori Festivala najavili su i postavljanje bine pod nazivom Piano stage. Na ovoj sceni održavaće se performansi, projekcije ostvarenja iz doba nemog filma, koji će biti praćeni nastupima mladih pijanista i koji će improvizovati muziku na zadati film. Postoji ideja da se Piano stage nazove Kristina, po imenu junakinje kultnog srpskog filma „Maratonci trče počasni krug“. U svakom slučaju, programi na gradskim binama biće beskrajno zanimljivi i besplatni za publiku. Jelena Jovanović fotografije: arhiva nišville Jazz feStivala

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Benny Golson & Kelag Big Band 2001

KRATKA ISTORIJA NIŠVIllA

Pod nazivom Nišvill, festival je startovao 1995. godine u najvećoj gradskoj dvorani Kluba Vojske Srbije. Festival je uspostavljao saradnju sa kulturnim centrima i ambasadama SAD, Holandije, Francuske, Norveške, Nemačke, a kako je sticao reputaciju, i imena učesnika bila su sve zvučnija: Redži Vorkmen, Bili Kob, Filip Katrin, Aria Hendriks, Majls Grifit, Deniz Džana, Bemši Širer... Festival je predstavio jedini zajednički nastup kraljice i kralja romske muzike, Esme Redžepove i Šabana Bajramovića. U svom prvom razdoblju Festival se pamti po fantastičnim džem sešnima u Jazz klubu koji su trajali do jutra. Za jednu deceniju, Nišvill je u potpunosti ispunio svoju misiju, jer je odškolovao i stekao veliku publiku, pa je najveća koncertna sala postala pretesna. Poslednje izdanje Festivala u zatvorenoj sali održano je 2005. Već naredne godine Nišvill je promenio i mesto i termin održavanja. Da je reč o pravom potezu, potvrdilo se već avgusta naredne godine. Festival je održan u jednom od najlepših, najakustičnijih i najvećih otvorenih amfiteatara u Evropi – na Letnjoj pozornici unutar Tvrđave. Tako je započela nova faza u istoriji džez manifestacija, ne samo na jugu Srbije, već i u ovom delu Evrope. Činjenica da je svake večeri bilo prisutno oko tri hiljade posetilaca, istovremeno je bila i praktična

potvrda estetsko-fizičke zakonitosti da se džez publika širi prema raspoloživom prostoru. Veći prostor omogućio je i dovođenje zvučnijih imena, među kojima su bili sastavi Incognito i The Brand New Heavies, Larry Coryell, Victor Bailey, Lenny White, Billy Cobham, Dr Donald Byrd, Milčo leviev, Niels Peter Molvaer, Duško Gojković, Rosenberg trio, Gilles Peterson, Jose James, Sidsel Endresen, Misterija bugarskih glasova ... Nišvill u novom prostoru i u letnjem izdanju odmah je postao najposećeniji džez festival u ovom delu Evrope. Od 2009. godine Festival se i dalje odvija unutar Tvrđave, ali na većem otvorenom prostoru i na više bina, a publika ga ispunjava do poslednjeg mesta. U novom prostoru nastupili su Solomon Burke, Candy Dulfer Band, Mingus Dynasty, Benny Golson, Grace Kelly, Terje Rypdal, Georgie Fame, Manu Dibango, Steve Hackett, De Phazz, Joe „Defunkt“ Bowie, Miroslav Vitous, Richard Galliano, Randy Brecker, Incognito... Nišvill festival je posetio veliki broj ljubitelja muzike iz cele Srbije, susednih zemalja, ali i država Zapadne Evrope. Stalni segment festivala je i besplatni workshop za mlade muzičare sa kojima rade skoro svi učesnici festivala pa i najveće zvezde. Branislav Dejanović, pr Nišvill Jazz Festivala

INFO: The Regent Club, Generala Milojka lešjanina 7a, 18000 Niš, Serbia Tel.+381 (0)18 524924 Fax.+381 (0)18 524520 recepcija@regentclub.com marketing@regentclub.com www.regentclub.com

AN ELITE HOSPITALITY COMPLEX

ELITNI UGOSTITELJSKI KOMPLEKS

he Regent Club is by everything a representative hospitality complex of the City of Niš. Starting from the location – the complex was built in the very heart of the city, on the main promenade route, and is only a few minutes walk from the most signiﬁcant historical buildings of the city. Furthermore, the Regent Club includes a four-star restaurant that bears the title of the most exclusive restaurant in the city. The accommodation part of the complex has also been designed with style. The Regent Club consists of 28 accommodation units – two suites, three studios and twenty-three rooms. The conference hall rounds up the business offer of the complex, and the coffee-pastry shop on the promenade route and an aperitif rounds up the manifold offer of the Regent Club, which equally satisﬁes the wishes of business people, tourists and the citizens of Niš.

he Regent Club je po svemu reprezentativan ugostiteljski kompleks grada Niša. Počevši od lokacije u samom srcu grada, na glavnom šetalištu, samo nekoliko minuta hoda od najznačajnijih istorijskih zdanja grada. U Regent Clubu nalazi se restoran sa četiri zvezdice, najekskluzivniji u gradu. Smeštajni deo kompleksa takođe je osmišljen sa stilom. The Regent Club ima 28 luksuzno opremljenih smeštajnih jedinica – dva apartmana, tri studija i dvadeset tri sobe. Konferencijska sala upotpunjuje poslovnu ponudu kompleksa, a kafe-poslastičarnica na šetalištu i aperitiv bar, zaokružuju multivalentnu ponudu Regent Cluba, koja podjednako zadovoljava prohteve poslovnih ljudi, turista i građana Niša.

PROVEDITE NEZABORAVNI VIKEND NA JUGU! TOKOM LETA REGENT CLUB NUDI AKCIJSKE CENE!

AN UNFORGETTABLE WEEKEND IN THE SOUTH DURING THE SUMMER, THE REGENT CLUB GIVES ITS GUESTS SPECIAL RATES!

BED AND BREAKFAST

STARTING AT €46 PER PERSON

NOĆENJE SA DORUČKOM OD €46 PO OSOBI

INFO | NIŠ TOURIST ORGANISATION OF NIŠ TPC Kalča II sprat, lamela C, lok 62 Tel. + 381 18 524-877 ton1@open.telekom.rs www.nistourism.org.rs Niš Tourist Information Centre Voždova 7 Tel. +381 18 523-118, 521-321 ton2@open.telekom.rs Niš Fortress Information Centre Stambol Kapija, Monday - Saturday: 9am to 5pm Sunday – 10am to 3pm Tel: 018/250222 Niška Banja Tourist Information Centre Sinđelićeva 3b, 18205 Niška Banja Tel. +381 18 4548-588

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HOTELS ALEKSANDAR *** Njegoševa 81 a Tel. 018/562-333 AMBASADOR *** Trg kralja Milana bb Tel. 018/501-800, 501-997 MY PLACE - BEST WESTERN **** Kej 29. decembar bb Tel. 018/525-555 NAIS*** Autoput NI-BG Tel. 018/601-599,601-030 NIŠKI CVET Kej 29. decembar2 Tel. 018/297-700

MUSEUMS

PANORAMA LUX*** Svetolika Rankovića 51 Tel. 018/561-214

National Museum, Niš Generala Milojka Lešjanina 14 Tel. 018/513-430

TAMI RESIDENCE HOTEL Durmitorska - prilaz bb Tel.018/505-800, 282-222

Archaelogical Hall of the National Museum Nikole Pašića 59 Tel. 018/511-531

RESTAURANTS AMERIKANAC Kovanlučka 10 Tel. 018/594-489

Archaelogical site Mediana Bulevar cara Konstantina bb Tel.018/550-433

BISER Koste Stamenkovića 1 Tel. 018/248-205

Tower of Skulls Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića bb Tel.018/222-228

GALIJA Nikole Pašića 35 Tel. 018/515-626

Concentration Camp Crveni krst Bulevar 12. februar bb Tel.018/588-889 Memorial Complex Čegar Tel. 018/651-145, 064/203 6204

HAMAM Tvrđava bb Tel. 018/513-447 KRČMA VERIGE KATENA MUNDI Ive Lole Ribara 7a Tel. 018/513-323

NIŠLIJSKA MEHANA Prvomajska 49 I Jadranska bb Tel. 018/511-111 ORAČ Knjaževačka 3 Tel. 018/214-124 PREMIJER Vizantisjki bulevar bb Tel. 018/206-106 REGENT CLUB Obrenovićeva 10 Tel. 018/524-520 SINĐELIĆ Nikole Pašića 36 Tel. 018/512-548 TRI FENJERA Anete Andrejević 8a Tel. 018/525-200 VICOLO Milentijeva 2 Tel. 018/288-218 TRAVEL Tsar Constantin the Great Airport Vazduhoplovaca 24 Tel. 018/580-023 www.nis-airport.com Central Bus Station Bulevar 12. februar bb Tel. 018/255-177, 255-666 www.nis-ekspres.rs Central Train Station Dimitrija Tucovića bb Tel.018/ 264-625, 291-320 www.zelecnicesrbije.com

DUNAV OSIGURANJE

GENERALNI SPONZOR SAJMA AUTO-KOMPONENTI

DUNAV OSIGURANJE

GENERAL SPONSOR OF THE AUTO COMPONENTS FAIR

nsurance company Dunav Osiguranje was announced as the general sponsor of the second international exhibition of auto parts manufacturers, SEE Auto Compo Net 2011, which was held in Kragujevac from 10th to 12th May The presentation of the Company took place immediately after the ceremonial opening of the fair. Guests were greeted on behalf of the general sponsor by Miroslav Stanišić, Director of Dunav East Region, who expressed satisfaction with the strategic partnership, noting that the SEE Auto Compo event had emerged as the most important specialised fair of its kind in Southeast Europe. Testifying to the regional importance of this economic event was the fact that the fair was opened by Serbian President Boris Tadić himself. He visited exhibitors and spent a significant amount of time at the Dunav Insurance stand, where he relayed his informal compliments to the company’s senior management for deciding to be the main sponsor of this important economic gathering in the auto industry field. The President greeted company representatives Miroslav Stanišić, Dragan Stojić, director of Dunav Insurance’s Main Branch in Kragujevac, and Jugoslav Smiljković Stojanovic, specialist manager for external PR. This event also proved an opportunity to highlight Dunav Insurance’s tradition of over 140 years and the fact that it is the largest company on Serbia’s insurance market. The list of all areas where the company is ranked first is truly impressive, while it is also ranked first in terms of the level of total premiums, the number of issued policies, the speed and amount of damages payments, the number of drivers who trust it, the size of the sales network, number of employees etc. The company’s general sponsorship of the Kragujevac auto components fair benefits Dunav Insurance’s leadership position and, by investing in this and other economic events, the company is clearly demonstrating that it is the undisputed leader and is determined to retain that position.

a Drugom međunarodnom sajmu proizvođača auto-delova Jugoistočne Evrope „SEE Auto Compo Net 2011“, koji je održan u Kragujevcu od 10. do 12. maja, Kompanija „Dunav osiguranje“ predstavila se u ulozi generalnog sponzora. Prezentacija Kompanije održana je neposredno nakon otvaranja Sajma. U ime generalnog sponzora, goste je pozdravio direktor Regiona Istok Miroslav Stanišić, koji je izrazio zadovoljstvo zbog ostvarenog strateškog partnerstva, naglasivši da je „SEE Auto Compo“ izrastao u najvažniji specijalizovani sajam te vrste u Jugoistočnoj Evropi. O regionalnom značaju te privredne smotre govori činjenica da je Sajam otvorio predsednik Srbije Boris Tadić. On je obišao izlagače i zadržao se na štandu „Dunav osiguranja“ , gde je, u neformalnom razgovoru, uputio sve komplimente top-menadžmentu Kompanije zbog odluke da bude generalni sponzor tog važnog privrednog okupljanja u oblasti auto-industrije. U ime Kompanije predsednika su pozdravili Miroslav Stanišić, direktor Regiona Istok, Dragan Stojić, direktor Glavne filijale „Dunav osiguranja“ u Kragujevcu i Jugoslava Smiljković Stojanović, specijalista menadžer za eksterni PR. Taj događaj bio je prilika da se istakne kako je „Dunav osiguranje“ kuća koja ima tradiciju dužu od 140 godina i da je najveća kompanija nа tržištu osiguranja u Srbiji. Impozantno deluje spisak svega onoga u čemu je ona prva: po visini ukupne premije, po broju izdatih polisa, po brzini i visini isplate štete, po broju vozača koji joj veruju, po veličini prodajne mreže, po broju zaposlenih... Generalno sponzorstvo Sajma auto-komponenti u Kragujevcu dolikuje liderskom položaju „Dunav osiguranja“, jer ulažući u tu manifestaciju, ali i u druge privredne manifestacije, Kompanija jasno pokazuje da je neprikosnoveni lider i da je odlučna da tu poziciju i nadalje zadrži. BelgueSt

BelgueSt BelGuest Proleće | SPring 2011

P E T R O V A C

R I V I E R A

EXCELLENT HOLIDAY, LOVELY HOTEL! Along the central part of Montenegro’s coastline, between Sveti Stefan and the Port of Bar, in the small town of Petrovac, lies one of the most beautiful hotels of the southern Adriatic: the Hotel Riviera. Surrounded by the lush, fragrant greenery of pine forests, cypress trees and palms... It is nestled high above the sea, allowing you to soak up views of the azzure waters, while just a short walk separates you from two beautiful sandy Mediterranean beaches.

alking over long sandy beaches or recognizable Montenegrin coves, indulging in the sunshine and the clear sea together with the scents of pines, palms and cypresses are the traces of beauty that the hotel complex Rivijera offers to its guests. Situated on the coast, in the milieu of the unspoiled nature the four-star Riviera Hotel has 91 luxuriously and comfortably equipped rooms – 11 single –bedded, 38 double-bedded and 42 suites. In the rooms and suites with the terraces from

Spring | proleće 2011 BelGuest

which there is a beautiful view of the surroundings, guests can use telephones, the Internet connection, room service, safe-deposit boxes, mini bars or watch satellite and cable television. All accommodation capacities of the Rivijera Hotel have air conditioning. A spacious terrace of the King Nikola Bar, located in the shade of lime and pine trees, is an ideal place for hotel guests to rest relax, drink their beverages and listen to Mediterranean music. In the boardinghouse restaurant of the Rivijera Hotel and a la cart restaurant Olive, the excellent chefs prepare meals and specialties of national and international cuisine. In the yard of the hotel, there is a swimming pool, with a separate swimming pool for children and a jacuzzi. The Rivijera Hotel has its own car park. The guests of the hotel spend their time most often on the part of the town beach hired by the hotel or they go sunbathing and swimming on the nearby natural sandy beach Lucice. Sport devotees can use a tennis court, a beach volley playground or a football field near the hotel

or they can play table tennis. For children there is an amusement park with wooden items, toboggans, small houses, swings, tables and chairs – a particular playground for the youngest guests. The animators organize their entertainment every day. The activities of the hotel include numerous excursions to Budva and Bar. „The hotel was the cleanest place we have ever seen - the rooms and the communal areas including the pool and garden were immaculate. The staff were very friendly and helpful and the most of the desk staff spoke good English...“, „We would definetly recommend this hotel to a friend and we are considering coming back next year!Thank you Hotel Rivijera for a wonderful week at the coast of Montenegro!“, this was written by satisfied guests of the Hotel Rivijera about their stay and posted on the internet as a recommendation. If you had such an experience , you would get just what you deserve- more than the need for the beautiful. Vladimir poČUČ

SJAJAN ODMOR, DIVAN HOTEL! U središnjem delu crnogorskog primorja, između Svetog Stefana i Bara, u malenom gradiću Petrovcu, nalazi se jedan od najlepših hotela južnog Jadrana – hotel Rivijera. Okružen je jedrim i mirisnim zelenilom borove šume, čempresa, palmi... Naslonjen je na uzvišicu s koje možete pogledom upijati plavetnilo mora. A od dve prelepe peščane mediterasnke plaže deli vas samo minuti laganog hoda.

etnje dugim peščanim plažama ili prepoznatljivim crnogorskim uvalama, prepuštanje čarolijama sunca i prozračnog mora, uz mirise borova, palmi i čempresa, tragovi su lepote koju gostima daruje hotelski kompleks Rivijera u Petrovcu. Smeštena uz samu obali mora, u ambijentu netaknute prirode, Rivijera raspolaže sa 91 luksuzno i komforno opremljenom sobom – 11 jednokrevetnih, 38 dvokrevetnih soba i 42 apartmana. Kategorisana je sa četiri zvezdice. U sobama i apartmanima, sa čijih se terasa pruža predivan pogled na okolinu, gosti mogu koristiti telefon, Internet konekciju, room service, sef i mini bar, pratiti satelitski i kablovski televizijski program. Svi smeštajni kapaciteti Rivijere su klimatizovani. Prostrana terasa bara Kralj Nikola, smeštena u hladovini lipa i borova, idealno je mesto za odmor i opuštanje, uz gutljaje kvalitetnih pića i zvuke mediteranske muzike. U pansionskom restoranu Rivijere i a la cart restoranu Oliva, vrhunski kulinarski majstori pripremaju jela i specijalitete domaće ili internacionalne kuhinje. U dvorištu hotela, okružen zelenilom, nalazi se otvoren bazen. Posebno su odvojeni dečiji bazen i jakuzzi. Rivijera ima i sopINFO: Hotel Rivijera 85300 Petrovac Montenegro Telephone: +382 (0)33 422-100 Fax: +382(0)33 461-314 mail : hotelrivijera@t-com.me sajt : www.riviera-petrovac.com

stveni parking. Posetioci hotela vreme najčešće provode na delu gradske plaže koju zakupljuje Rivijera ili se sunčaju i kupaju na obližnjoj prirodnoj peščanoj plaži Lučice. Ljubitelji sportskih igara mogu koristiti tenisko igralište Rivijere, teren za odbojku – beach volley, prostor za stoni tenis ili fudbalsko igralište u blizini hotela. Za decu je osmišljen zabavni park sa drvenim rekvizitima, toboganom, kućicama, ljuljaškama, te stolovima i stolicama – svojevrsno mini igralište za goste do pet godina. O njihovoj zabavi brinu se svakodnevno animatori. Hotelski sadržaji oplemenjeni su i brojnim izletima do Budve i Bara. „Ovo je najčistiji hotel koji sam u životu videla –

sobe i zajednički prostorije, bazen i vrt doslovno blistaju. Osoblje je ljubazno i uslužno i većina njih govori dobar engleski...“, „Svakako ćemo ovaj hotel preporučiti prijateljima i već razmišlajmo da sledeće godine ponovo dođemo. Zahvaljujemo se hotelu Rivijera na predivnoj nedelji provedenoj na obali Crne Gore!“, napisali su o svom boravku u hotelu zadovoljni gosti i svoje preporuke objavili na Internetu. Ukoliko sebi priuštite jedan takav doživljaj, priuštili ste upravo to što zaslužujete – više od potrebe za lepim. Vladimir poČUČ

BelGuest Spring | proleće 2011

P R I M A

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

WALK A MILE FOR A SMILE Belgrade’s PRIMA international school educates pupils according to British standards. Aside from its core activities, this school carries out regular and varied activities that also teach pupils about humanity, compassion and love for mankind. One such example is the recently held charity event, “Walk a Mile for a Smile”, which was organised as a sign of solidarity with the children of Japan.

he tragedy that befell Japan shocked the entire world. The terrifying scenes of destruction and details on the number of casualties were followed by images of the suffering of almost half a million adults and children who lost their homes and livelihoods. Serbia was among the first countries to send a telegram of condolence to Japan, while numerous institutions reacted immediately by helping to organise the collection of aid for Japan. In that way the people of Serbia showed that they had not forgotten how the people of Japan had helped them and are still doing so. PRIMA School joined this strong wave of support by organising a charity event called “Walk a Mile for a Smile”. - With extensive experience of humanitarian activities carried out to date, we have managed to raise funds and provide moral support to the people of Japan at these difficult times. It was an honour and a pleasure for us that the Ambassador of Japan in

SPring | Proleće 2011 BelGuest

Belgrade, His Excellency Toshio Tsunozaki, opened this humanitarian event and joined the walk,” says Brigitte MacIntosh, director of the school, speaking to BelGuest. The event took place on a sunny 3rd of April at Partizan’s stadium. Walking together on the athletic track were students, teachers, parents and other guests. Specially designed T-shirts with the logo of the event were sold, while balloons with the flag of Japan fluttered. The action was supported by sponsors including Nestle ice cream, biscuit factory Jaffa, Rosa water, Kabab Sofra, Stibo playroom, Partizan stadium and, of course, parents. The atmosphere of the event could best be described with the comments of the fifth and sixth graders. “I enjoyed walking and was so happy to be helping the children of Japan. When we finished the walk we ate some ice cream and had a lot of fun,” said Camillo, while Mona summed up her experience of the day by saying: “The walk was fun for me.

We bought T-shirts and I saw the Ambassador of Japan!” Miloš enjoyed the whole atmosphere tremendously: “It felt like I was in paradise. I ran and jumped. We walked for the children of Japan and even the Japanese ambassador came to see us.” Nikola had different observations: “We did one mile, which is three laps. We saw our teachers running and Ms Brigitte dancing.” The charity walk was held in a pleasant and friendly atmosphere, with students and teachers managing to collect a total of €4,300, which was immediately sent to the children of Japan! - We are thankful to everyone who helped our campaign and donated funds. Moreover, we hope that our example will also serve as inspiration for others, concluded PRIMA school director MacIntosh. BelgueSt

P R I M A

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

ŠETNJOM DO OSMEHA Beogradska međunarodna škola PRIMA svoje učenike školuje po britanskim standardima. Uz svoju osnovnu delatnost, ta škola čestim i raznovrsnim aktivnostima uči svoje đake humanosti, saosećajnosti i čovekoljublju. Jedan od takvih delatnih primera je nedavno održana humanitarna manifestacija Šetnjom do osmeha, koja je organizovana u znak solidarnosti sa decom Japana.

ragedija koja je zadesila Japan potresla je čitav svet. Na zastrašujuće prizore razaranja i podatke o broju nastradalih nadovezale su se i slike patnji skoro pola miliona odraslih ljudi i dece, koji su ostali bez svojih kuća i sredstava za život. Srbija je među prvima poslala Japanu telegram saučešća, a brojne institucije odmah su reagovale i organizovale prikupljanje pomoći. Tako je narod Srbije pokazao da nije zaboravio koliko je narod Japana pomagao i još pomaže našem narodu. Škola PRIMA pridružila se tom snažnom talasu podrške, organizujući humanitarnu manifestaciju sa nazivom Šetnjom do osmeha. S velikim iskustvom u dosadašnjim humanitarnim aktivnostima uspeli smo da prikupimo novčana sredstva i da u ovom teškom trenutku damo moralnu podršku narodu Japana. Bila nam je i čast i zadovoljstvo što je ambasador Japana,

njegova ekselencija Toshio Tsunozaki, otvorio ovaj humanitarni događaj i pridružio se šetnji, kaže za BelGuest Brigitte MacIntosh, direktorka škole. Sunčanog 3. aprila, na stadionu Partizana, atletskom stazom zajedno su hodali đaci, profesori, roditelji i drugi gosti. Prodavale su se posebno dizajnirane majice sa znakom manifestacije, lebdeli su baloni sa zastavom Japana. Akciju su podržali i sponzori – Nestle sladoledi, Fabrika biskvita Jaffa, voda Rosa, Kabab Sofra, igraonica Stibo, stadion Partizan i, naravno, roditelji. Atmosferu na manifestaciji možda najbolje opisuju komentari učenika petog i šestog razreda: „Uživao sam u šetnji i bio srećan što tako pomažem deci Japana. Kada smo završili šetnju, jeli smo sladoled i lepo se zabavljali“ – rekao je Kamilo. A Mona je ovako sažela svoj doživljaj tog dana: „Šetnja mi je bila zabavna, kupili smo

majice i videla sam ambasadora Japana!“ Miloš je mnogo uživao u atmosferi: „Osećao sam se kao u raju. Trčao sam i skakao. Hodali smo za decu Japana, a došao nam je i japanski ambasador.“ Nikola je imao drugačija zapažanja: „Hodali smo dužinu jedne milje, što su tri kruga. Videli smo naše nastavnike kako trče i direktorku Ms. Brigitte kako pleše.” Humanitarna šetnja protekla je u prijatnoj i veseloj atmosferi, a đaci i nastavnici uspeli su da prikupe sumu od 4.300 evra, koja je odmah upućena deci Japana! - Zahvaljujemo svima koji su pomogli akciju i donirali sredstva. Takođe se nadamo da će naš primer biti podsticaj i za druge – kaže za kraj razgovora direktorka Škole PRIMA Brigitte MacIntosh. BelgueSt

BelGuest Proleće | SPring 2011

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

EDUCATION LIKE A FAIRYTALE

The British International School will next year celebrate its 15th anniversary in Serbia. This jubilee will be marked by high school pupils in a new facility – the exclusive and modern-equipped school building at 12 Smetanina Street in the Dedinje neighbourhood.

ince its establishment, the British International School has welcomed more and more pupils who have enrolled each new school year in ever greater numbers and that positive trend continues. The school’s positive development is the result of hard work that has raised the quality of teaching for the benefit of pupils in their further education. Now education will continue in an attractive, comfortable, functional and stimulating environment. - Thanks to the success of lectures, in March we relocated our high school pupils from the building on Drajzerova Street into a modern-equipped house in Smetanina Street. Future academics will gain new knowledge and skills in the most modern-equipped laboratories for science and IT. Moreover, each pupil has at their disposal a large classical library, with a futuristic electronic reading room. Each subject has its own cabinet, stocked

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with the necessary teaching inventory. Following global trends, we also teach with the help of digital projectors, says Aleksandra Keserović, director and founder of the school. In order to make students feel at home, they can take advantage of a canteen with delicious food, while pupils whose parents require transportation from home to school and back can also take advantage of mini-buses covering every part of the city. - Apart from the compulsory curriculum, we try to give children the opportunity to develop their inclination towards art. We have talented pupils who achieve outstanding results each year. This year two of our girls participated in a competition to paint a portrait of Queen Elizabeth II. In addition to preferences for painting, high school pupils have shown that they also have a gift for poetry. This spring pupils of the seventh, eighth and ninth grades participated in the major ‘Cobis’ competition

of all British international schools. - Moreover, three of our girls won a bronze medal, in competition with teams from 38 countries, at the computer animation competition “Info-matrix”, which was held in Bucharest this May - emphasises Aleksandra Keserović - In order to liberate and better develop pupils’ creativity at the earliest possible age, we direct them towards extracurricular activities. For now the most popular extracurricular activities are the swimming and karate clubs. The disaster that struck the Land of the Rising Sun this year prompted the school to organise a charity bazaar with primary school pupils in the courtyard of the villa at 7 Uzička Street. All funds collected on this occasion were deposited on a special account opened by the Embassy of Japan. Mile Kovač

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

ŠKOLO VA N J E K AO I Z B A J KE

Britanska internacionalna škola naredne godine slavi 15 godina postojanja u Srbiji. Taj jubilej srednjoškolci će proslaviti u novom prostoru – ekskluzivnoj i savremeno opremljenoj školskoj zgradi u Smetaninoj ulici broj 12, na Dedinju.

d osnivanja Britanska internacionalna škola je svake nove školske godine upisivala veći broj đaka nego prethodne i to pozitivno kretanje nastavlja se i dalje. Dobar razvoj škole rezultat je napornog rada, podizanja kvaliteta nastave za prohodnost đaka u daljem školovanju. Školovanje će nastaviti u lepom, udobnom, funkcionalnom i podsticajnom ambijentu. - Zbog uspešnosti predavanja, u martu smo srednjoškolce iz zgrade u Drajzerovoj preselili u savremeno opremljenu kuću u Smetaninoj ulici. Budući akademci će nova znanja i veštine steći u najsavremenijim laboratorijama za prirodne nauke i informatiku. Takođe, svakom učeniku dostupna je velika klasična biblioteka, sa futurističkom elektronskom čitaonicom. Svaki predmet ima svoj kabinet, sa potrebnim nastavnim inventarom. Prateći svetska kretanja,

nastavu izvodimo i uz pomoć digitalnih projektora – kaže Aleksandra Keserović, direktor i osnivač škole. Da bi se učenici osećali kao kod kuće, na raspolaganju im je i kantina sa ukusnom hranom, a đaci čiji roditelji žele prevoz od kuće do škole i nazad imaju na raspolaganju mini-buseve za bilo koji deo grada. – Trudimo se da pored obaveznog nastavnog programa, deci pružimo priliku da razvijaju svoje sklonosti ka umetnosti. Imamo talentovane đake, koji svake godine postižu zapažene rezultate. Ove godine dve učenice učestvovale su na likovnom konkursu za portret kraljice Elizabete. Pored sklonosti ka slikarstvu, srednjoškolci su pokazali da imaju dara i za poeziju. Ovog proleća su učenici sedmog, osmog i devetog razreda učestvovali u „Cobisovom“ velikom takmičenju svih bri-

tanskih internacionalnih škola. Takođe, naše tri učenice su u konkurenciji timova iz 38 zemalja osvojile bronzanu medalju na takmičenju kompjuterske animacije „Info-matrix“ koje je održano tokom maja u Bukureštu – ističe Aleksandra Keserović. - Da bismo oslobodili i bolje razvili kreativnost kod učenika, još u najranijem uzrastu usmeravamo ih na vannastavne aktivnosti. Za sada su najpopularniji klub plivanja i karatea. Nesreća koja je pogodila Zemlju izlazećeg sunca podstakla je školu da sa učenicima osnovne škole organizuje dobrotvorni bazar u dvorištu vile u Užičkoj 7. Sva prikupljena sredstva uplaćena su na poseban račun, koji je otvorila ambasada Japana. M ile K ovač

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KKUULLTTUURRAA CCUULLTTUURREE POZORIŠTA – THEATERS www.geocities.com/bgpozorista ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342/www.atelje212.rs ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 www.atelje212.co.rs BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.rs BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608 www.bitef.rs DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.rs DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel.2619-705 www.rex.b92.net/ister JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.rs

KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.rs NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333 www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SCENA RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 323-8817 SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447 TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664 www.zvezdarateatar.rs

DEČJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715 www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 POZORISTE “PAN TEATAR”, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 298, www.panteatar.rs

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIČKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694,

www.americancorners-sam.net AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf BRITANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ BRITISH CULTURAL CENTER, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800 www.britishcouncil.org/serbia CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270 www.czkd.rs DEČIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442/ www.dksg.rs DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 323-99-71 FRANCUSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/FRENCH CULTURAL CENTER, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-600 www.ccf.rs GOETHE INSTITUT-NEMAČKI KULTURNI CENTAR/GERMAN CULTURAL CENTER, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 2622-823/ www.goethe.de/belgrad GRAD - Evropski centar za kulturu i debatu, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. 3282- 571 www. gradbeograd.eu GUARNERIUS – centar lepih umetnosti, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807 www.guarnerius.rs HELENSKI FOND ZA KULTURU, Kneza Miloša 14, tel.3625-206 www.hfc-belgrade.com

INSTITUT SERVANTES - ŠPANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ SPANISH CULTURAL CENTER, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, 3034-183/ www.belgrado.cervantes.es INSTITUT KONFUČIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.fil.bg.ac.rs ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ ITALIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, fax.3621-411 www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it

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KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.rs KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Nake Spasić 3, tel. 367-2564, www.nur.org.yu RUSKI DOM / RUSSIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178 www.ruskidom.rs

REX, Jevrejska 16, tel./fax 3284-534 www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014/ www.skc.org.yu ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550 / www.kolarac.rs

KONCERTNE DVORANE - CONCERT HALLS ATRIJUM NARODNOG MUZEJA, Trg republike 1a, tel. 330-6000 BEOGRADSKA FILHARMONIJA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328-2977 www.bgf.co.rs DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 324-0242 DVORANA DOMA SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849 www.domsindikata.com KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel. 2638-264 SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 www.savacentar.com ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 262-6591 www.kolarac.co.rs

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ - ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888 KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE - THE MANSION OF DUCHESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA - THE MANSION OF DUKE MILOSH, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422 KUĆA ĐURE JAKŠIĆA - DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUĆA - MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE - SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ - NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, 3306-000 www.narodnimuzej.rs

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538 VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ - VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE - SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM (direkcija), Đure Jakšića 9/IV, tel. 2187-360, 2637-753

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ - JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634

MUZEJ BEOGRADSKE TVRĐAVE – BELGRADE FORTRESS MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-4317

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE - YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Trg Nikole Pašića 11, tel. 328- 4317

MUZEJ BANJIČKOG LOGORA, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877 VOJNI MUZEJ - MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan, tel. 3344-408, 3344-915 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIĆA, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126 MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE - NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ TOME ROSANDIĆA, Ljube Jovanovića 3, tel.265- 1434 MUZEJ IVE ANDRIĆA - IVO ANDRIC MUSEUM, Andrićev Venac 12, tel. 323-8397 ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA - THE CITY OF BELGRADE MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel.2630-825

ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJ ZEMUN - ZEMUN CITY MUSEUM, Glavna 9, tel. 316- 5234 TEHNIČKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA- MUSEUM OF MOTORCARS, Majke Jevrosime 30,tel. 3034-625 MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA - MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV

AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Beograd/Belgrade airport,tel. 2670-992, 2698-209 MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE – MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY,

UMETNIČKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIĆ, Mali Kalemegdan, tel. 2622-281 www.ulus.org.rs VELIKA GALERIJA DOMA KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179,

PTT MUZEJ- POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3210-325 ŽELEZNIČKI MUZEJ - RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334

ZEPTER GALERIJA, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414

Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850 www.muzejnt.rs

PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2265

MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE – MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149

UMETNIČKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIČKE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654 MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI - THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2626-630 MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Novi Beograd, Ušće Save bb, tel. 311-5713 www.msub.org.rs

MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF DESIGN, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494 www.mpu.org.rs

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - CINEMA MUSEUM, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.yu NATIONAL BANK OF SERBIA NUMISMATIC COLLECTION Kralja Petra 12, tel.3027-100 www.nbs.rs e-mail izlozba@nbs.rs For individual visitors - every working day from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Organized groups are requested to book their visit in advance. Admittance free. For visit announcements please call: +381 11 3027-204, 3027-318 POSTAVKA NUMIZMATIČKE ZBIRKE U NARODNOJ BANCI SRBIJE Individualne posete – svakog radnog dana u vremenu od 10 do 16 časova. Grupne posete se zakazuju.Ulaz je besplatan. Zakazivanje poseta obavlja se telefonom na broj +381 11 3027-204, 3027-318 AUKCIJSKA KUĆA – AUCTION HOUSE MADL’ART, Kralja Milana 21, tel. 3244-824

IZLOŽBENE GALERIJE - EXHIBITION GALLERIES GALERIJA SRPSKE AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMETNOSTI - GALLERY OF SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES,Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 334-2400 ext.244 GALERIJA BEOGRAD, Andrićev venac 12, tel. 323-8789 GALERIJA DOMA OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 GALERIJA FAKULTETA LIKOVNIH UMETNOSTI, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. 2630-635 GALERIJA FRESAKA - FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Uroša 20, tel. 3306-052, 2621-491 GALERIJA GRAFIČKOG KOLEKTIVA, Obilićev venac 27, tel. 2627-785 www. grafickikolektiv.org GALERIJA HAOS, Dositejeva 3, tel. 2627-497 www.galleryhaos.com GALERIJA KULTURNOG CENTRA BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 2622-926 GALERIJA-LEGAT MILICE ZORIĆ I RODOLJUBA ČOLAKOVIĆA, Rodoljuba Čolakovića 13, tel. 2663-173 GALERIJA-LEGAT PAJE JOVANOVIĆA, Kralja Milana 21, tel. 3340-176 GALERIJA-LEGAT PETRA DOBROVIĆA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2622-163 GALERIJA NAUKE I TEHNIKE SANU – SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Đure Jakšića 2, tel. 3283-490 GALERIJA NEW MOMENT, Hilandarska 14, tel. 3229-992 GALERIJA PROGRES, Knez Mihailova 22, tel. 2182-626 GALERIJA PRIRODNJAČKOG MUZEJA, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 328-4317 GALERIJA STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 8, tel. 2612-023 GALERIJA STUDENTSKOG KULTURNOG CENTRA, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 2688-468 GALERIJA SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, tel. 2685-780 www.galerijasuluj.org.rs GALERIJA 73, Požeška 83 a, tel. 3557-142 GALERIJA ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. 2623-128 www.ulus.org.rs GALERIJA CENTRALNOG DOMA VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 323-4712 GALERIJA ZADUŽBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, tel.2185-794 JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNIČKIH DELA, Andrićev venac 4, tel. 3238-789, Dositejeva 1, tel. 2627-135

tel. 2691-442

BIOSKOPI - CINEMAS AKADEMIJA 28, Nemanjina 28, tel. 361- 6020 CITY ACADEMIC, Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića 152, tel. 260- 9527 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića 179, tel.269- 1442 DOM OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, tel. 3248-202 DOM SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849 DVORANA KULTURNOG CENTRA, Kolarčeva 6, tel. 2621-174 JUGOSLAVIJA, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina bb, tel. 2676-484 MILLENNIUM, Knez Mihailova 19, tel. 2623-365 MUZEJ KINOTEKE, Kosovska 11, tel. 324-8250 ODEON, Kraljice Natalije 45, tel. 2643-355 RODA CINEPLEX, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 STER CITY CINEMA, Jurija Gagarina 16, Delta City, tel.220- 3400 ŠUMADIJA PALAS, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. 3555-465 TUCKWOOD CINEPLEX, Kneza Miloša 7, tel. 323-6517 VUK, Bul. kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2424-860 ZVEZDA, Terazije 40, tel. 264- 2057

KNJIŽARE - BOOK STORES www.knjigainfo.com AKADEMIJA, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 2636-514 APROPO, Cara Lazara 10, 2625-839 BEOPOLIS, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-9922 CIKLOSTIL, Kičevska 17, tel. 3441-900 DERETA, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 3033-503, 2627-934 GECA KON, Knez Mihailova 12, tel. 2622-073 INTERNATIONAL PRESS SERVICE- SKC, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 2659-193 MAMUT MEGASTORE, Sremska 2-4, tel. 2639-060 PLATO, Akademski plato 1, tel. 3034-808, rv/wh 0-24h Knez Mihailova 48, tel. 2625-834, rv/wh 0-24h Čika Ljubina 18-20, tel. 303-2196 SKZ, Kralja Milana 19, tel. 323-1593 STUBOVI KULTURE, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 328-1851 ZEPTER, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414 ZNAK PLUS, Terazije 24, tel. 306-7686 PRAVOSLAVNE KNJIŽARE ORTHODOX-CHRISTIAN BOOK STORES ATOS, Nušićeva 5, tel. 3224-234 BLAGODARNIK, Beogradska 33, tel. 3244-038 INOSTRANA KNJIGA - FOREIGN LANGUAGE BOOKS INTERNATIONAL PRESS SERVICE, Beoizlog, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281-859 ENGLISH BOOK, Kralja Petra 51, tel.3349-560 THE OXFORD CENTRE, Dobračina 27, tel. 2631-021, Dobračina 18a, 2631-947 PROEX, 1300 kaplara 1, tel. 2180-140

BIBLIOTEKE - LIBRARIES BIBLIOTEKA GRADA BEOGRADA - BELGRADE CITY LIBRARY, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202-4024 www.bgb.org.rs

NARODNA BIBLIOTEKA SRBIJE - SERBIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 2451-242 www.nb.rs

UNIVERZITETSKA BIBLIOTEKA „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“- UNIVERSITY LIBRARY „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 3370-509 www.unilib.bg.ac.rs

OZON, Andrićev venac 12, tel.3036-024, 3238-789 SALON MUZEJA SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI, Pariska 14, tel. 2630-940

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BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI BELGRADE RESTAURANTS *skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079 DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885 IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422 ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750 TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501 ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE BATLEROVA KUĆA, Gospodar Jovanova 42, tel. 2188-033 mob. 065/2188-033 BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 367-0562 COLONIAL SUN, Bulevar Vojvode Putnika 32-34, tel.3692-156 DAKA*****, Beograd, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 219-7423 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h nat DEVETKA***, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783 DIVA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422 EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 3612-429 FRANŠ****, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 2641-944

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GINGER, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 INTERNATIONAL PRESS CENTER CLUB, Knez Mihailova 6/III, tel. 2621-661 KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 (live music) KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931 KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972 KOVAC, Bulevar oslobodjenja 221, tel. 2462-343 KUMBARA****, Bulevar JA 46, Beli Potok, tel. 3906-834 MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332 METROPOLITAN GRILL*****, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140 NA ĆOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 NOVI SALAŠ, Zemun, Sinđelićeva 34, tel. 2190-324 ORAČ***, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507 OSKAR, Braće Baruh 6, tel. 2184-726 PASTUV****, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-8058 PERPER lux, Omladinskih brigada 18a, tel. 2606-046 (live music) PIRE SLOW FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel. 2621-494 RESTORAN 27, Istarska 27, tel. 2651-831 RUBIN***, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3910-987

SOKAČE, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića, tel. 2625- 452 SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197 STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 TABOR****, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464 (live music) TALAS, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 UŠĆE****, Ušće bb, tel. 2139-692 VUK****, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 ZAPLET, Žarka Zrenjanina 33, tel.240-4142 ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651 (live music) ZLATNIK****, Kej oslobođenja35, Zemun, tel. 210- 5565 ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421

The tree-star Slodes hotel provides quality accommodation, hotel and restaurant services and services of brand new wellness center with swimming pool, sauna, steam bath, solarium and massages, and all that with supervision of doctor of sports medicine. Borska 92f, Beograd tel. +381 11 30-555-18, 305-65-25 Those who in time of booking invoke BelGuest, can receive discount on hotel services.

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS FISH&BAR, Braće Jugovića 3 , tel. 2622-146 KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 PORTO, Francuska 52, tel. 322-5624 REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625 (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 (live music)

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS Klub DOBRILA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 international cuisine AMPHORA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića bana 13, tel.3285-906 french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIĆA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 italian cuisine BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 italian cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojšina 6, tel. tel. 244 19 38, lebanon cuisine CASA, Makenzijeva 24, tel. 3860-866 IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 indian cuisine IPANEMA, Strahinjića bana 68, tel. 3283-069 italian cuisine FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 italian cuisine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 sea food LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA****, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 italian cuisine PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 2181-931chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 italian cuisine PIZZA HUT, Makedonska 44, tel. 3243-255 italian cuisine POSLOVNI KLUB „KOŠUTNJAK”, Pere Velimirovića 1, tel. 2661-344 venision PUTUJUĆI GLUMAC, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. 3341-024 italian cuisine ROYAL KNEZ***, Kneza Sime Markovića 10, tel. 2635-160 italian cuisine TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 sea food VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 mexican cuisine ZORBA, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6547 greek cuisine

RESTORAN PIZZERIE - RESTAURANTS PIZZERIAS ASTERIX, Ušće 1, tel. 311-2219 FONTANA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 88, tel. 3020-636 FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 GOLUB, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 204, tel. 2421-401 Zemun, Ugrinovačka 3, tel. 316-19-89 KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344 ORAO, Bulevar despota Stefana 32, tel. 3228-836

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.319-6369 , tel.063/7784-760 (live music) AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 ČARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467 (live music) KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel.. 3195-905 (live music) KOGO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226

HOTELI – HOTELS CONTINENTAL HOTEL BEOGRAD, Vladimira Popovića 10, tel. 2204-204 fax 311-1402 HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 fax 311-2234 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235 PRESIDENT, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 fax 2075-260 BAH – BEOGRAD ART HOTEL,Knez Mihailova 27 tel. 3312-000 BEST WESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3095-505 fax 3095-501 BEST WESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3554-255 fax 3554-368 CRYSTAL, Internacionalnih brigada 9 tel. 715-1000 EVROPA, Sremska 1, tel. 3626-017 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 fax 310-5351 LIFE DESIGN, Balkanska 18, tel. 3626-090 fax 3626-086 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995

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MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 fax 2688-389 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Karađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 NEVSKI , Venizelusova 24a, tel. 322-9722 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 fax 184-458 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 fax 3057-466 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 2450-842 fax 3442-931 TOWNHOUSE 27, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. 2022-900 fax 2620-955 TULIP INN , Palmira Toljatija 9 , tel. 2259-813 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel. 3314-800 fax 3314-801 ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 2645-422; fax 2686-437 BALKAN, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 fax 2687-581 ELEGANCE, Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel.2075-000 fax.2075-005 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 3035-858 fax 3035-353 N, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 fax 3955-555 NACIONAL, Autoput 5, tel. 2601-156 fax 2601-177 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 fax. 2561-090 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 fax. 3640-381 PRAG, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 3610-422 fax 3612-691 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 fax 361-2965 ROYAL, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 2626-426 fax 2626-459 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 fax 2190-724 SLODES, Borska 92F, tel. 3055-518 fax 3056-524 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 fax 3224-480 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-361 fax 657-344 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 fax 3231-951 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 fax 3162-648 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-842 fax 2431-517 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 fax 289-2462 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-507 fax 3238-027 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670 fax 3540-669

HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 fax 8230-077 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. 341-6131 SUČEVIĆ M ***, Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771

APARTMENTS- APARTMANI Kraljičini apartmani*****, Đure Daničića 13, tel.322-4318 Vila Kalemegdan, Strahinjića bana 7, tel.2637-856

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4444 www.beg.aero Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel. 2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.rs

JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.com

Međunarodni železnički saobraćaj - International railway transport, tel. 360-2899 Međunarodni autobuski saobraćaj- International bus transport, tel. 2622-526, 2627-146

Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.rs

Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.com

tel: + 381 (0)11 266 7130, mobile: +381 (0)63 8636 965, 2, Senjak, Belgrade SPring | Proleće 201111000 BelGuest 110Temišvarska ww.insb.rs, e-mail: insb@eunet.rs

AVACO RENT A CAR

A RESPECTABLE FLEET OF CARS

RESPEKTABILNA FLOTA AUTOMOBILA

vaco Rent a Car uspešna je srpska firma koja se više od deset godina vaco Rent a Car is a successful Serbian company which has been engaged bavi rentiranjem vozila. U njenom impozantnom voznom parku možete in renting vehicles for more than ten years. Its impressive fleet includes all naći sve vrste automobila – od najluksuznijeg mercedesa S klase, džipova kinds of cars – from the most luxurious Mercedes-S class, jeeps Grand Cherokee, grand cherokee, commander, hummer, mercedes GL, lincoln navigator, honda Commander, Hummer, Mercedes Gl, Lincoln Navigator, Honda CRV, via high- CRV, preko automobila visoke klase, kao što su chrysler 300 c i mercedes E end cars such as the Chrysler 300 C and Mercedes E 200, as well as mid-range 200 i automobila više srednje klase honda accord, seat altea, pa sve do nižih vehicles like the Honda Accord and Seat Altea, all the way to lower range pas- putničkih klasa. U ponudi su i terenski automobili i kombiji, a ako vam zatreba senger cars. There are also all-terrain vehicles and vans da negde stignete zaista brzo, Avaco ima čak – and if you need to get somewhere really fast, Avaco even HELIKOPTER! has a HELICOPTER for you to rent! As a local company, Avaco competes on the Serbian Kao domaća kompanija, Avaco se na srpskom market with the world’s brand-name car rental comtržištu nadmeće sa svetski brendiranim rent-a-car panies and matches their offers in terms of quality of kompanijama i ne zaostaje za njima po kvalitetu service that does not lag behind, as well as in terms of usluge, a cene su mu znatno konkurentnije. Pored prices that are more than competitive. In addition to jeftinije usluge, Avaco Rent a Car svojim klijencheaper services, AVACO Rent a Car offers its clients other INFO tima daje različite dodatne usluge i česte akcijske benefits in the form of various additional services and Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija popuste. Tel: +381 11 24 33 797, +381 11 34 48 981 frequent discounts. Jedna od specifičnih crta u poslovnoj filozofiji One specific feature of Avaco company’s business phi- Fax. +381 11 24 32 010 kompanije je fleksibilnost: Auto možete iznajmiti u losophy is flexibility. At this company you can rent a car Mob. tel: +381 65 63 63 330 bilo koje doba, 24 sata dnevno, 365 dana u godini. at any time day or night, 24 hours a day, 365 days a Avaco – Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, Beograd, Zbog velikog broja zahteva za automobilima sa year. Because of high demand for cars with automatic Tel: +381 11 22 86 434 automatskim menjačem za letnju sezonu Avaco transmission for the summer season, Avaco has prepared Mob. tel: 381 65 535 33 25 je pripremio nova automatik vozila honda accord, new automatic vehicles Honda Accord, Honda CR-V and Hitne intervencije: +381 64 184 55 55 honda crv i mercedes e 200. Kompanija ima i Mercedes E 200. The company also has vehicles for non- http://www.avaco-rentacar.com/ vozila isključivo za nepušače. Ako ne vozite, možete smokers only. If you don’t drive, you can rent a car with ONLINE REZERVACIJE iznajmiti automobil sa vozačem. Kada doputujete a driver. If you arrive at the airport and need a ride to any avionom, Avaco će vas sa aerodroma prevesti do desired destination in the country, Avaco will transport you there. You can also bilo koje željene destinacije u zemlji. Na to možete računati i kada vam je count on Avaco when you need to transport goods. potreban prevoz robe. Since its establishment, Avaco Rent a Car has carefully guarded its reputation Od osnivanja do danas Avaco Rent a Car pažljivo čuva svoju reputaciju pouzas a reliable partner, gaining many satisfied customers. The company operates danog partnera, čime je stekao veliki broj zadovoljnih korisnika. Kompanija according to ISO 9001:2008 and ISO 27001 standards. posluje po standardima ISO 9001:2008 i ISO 27001 BelgUeST BelgUeST

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AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRWAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroflot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000 www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrian.com BRITISH AIRWAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com QATAR,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879 QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166 www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/III, tel. 3035-738 SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 3035-739 www.srilankan.aero SWISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174 www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-7225 www.thy.com

DOMAĆE AVIO KOMPANIJE AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel.2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRWAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel.3112-123, www.jat.com

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - WAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9811 HITNA POMOĆ - EMERGENCY WARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - WEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9823

RENT-A-CAR AVACO RENT A CAR, Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija, 24 33 797, 34 48 981, Fax. 24 32 010, mob. 65 63 63 330

AVACO – AERODROM NIKOLA TESLA, Beograd, 22 86 434, mob.381 65 535 33 25, Hitne intervencije: +381 64 184 55 55

BUDGET RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Antifašističke borbe 38, 11000 Beograd, Srbija, 311 3050 OMNITURS, SAVSKI TRG 7, Beograd, (011) 761 - 0127; (061) 444 - 3000; (061) 444 - 2000 AXIOM RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Bul.A.Carnojevica 66, L31, 11070 Novi Beograd, Srbija, 761 0127; (061) 444 - 3000; (061) 444 - 2000

SKILL RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Milentija Popovica 9, Sava Centar, 11000 Beograd, 381 63 330 259, 3113684

MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAČNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .988 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn

EUROPCAR RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Bulevar M. Pupina, 10g/523, 212 03 42

in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of

GET MOBILE D.O.O. RENT-A-CAR BEOGRAD, Zorana Đinđiča 45 v, 11000 Beograd, 313 06 39

Internal Affairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.rs

AVIS, Hotel Hyatt Regency Milentija Popovića 5, Beograd, 381 (0)11 313 96 16 HERTZ AUTOCAR, Vladimira Popovica 6, Beograd, 20 28 200 Sixt Rent a Car, Žorža Klemensoa 19, 11000 Beograd, 328 7070 ,064 895 6089

ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vladete Kovačevića 14, tel. 2653-422 fax 2653-424 ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630

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AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, 8th floor, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, 3031-964 fax.2635-606 Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593

BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 Odelj. za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120

BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057 Konzulat/Consular section, tel.3038-204

BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653 BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454

CRNA GORA/MONTENEGRO, Užička 1, tel. 2662-300 fax 3699-546 ČEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 ČILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 GRČKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića bana 76, tel. 3341-507

GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566

MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013 MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968

INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209

NAMIBIJA/NAMIBIA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 fax 896-732

INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984

NEMAČKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 Konzulat/Consular

IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363 ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel.3066-169

Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400

NORVEŠKA/NORWAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667

IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555

PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336

JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258

PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085-216

KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 3063-000 fax 3063-042

POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576

KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 Konzulat/Consular Section,

PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 2662-894 fax 2662-892

Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163

KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122

REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Fruškogorska 1/II, tel. 2183-581 fax 303-6096

KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431

REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229

KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442

RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771

LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156

Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798

LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805

RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 Konzulat/

MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974

MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 3285-076 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 (except Wednesday)

Consular Section, tel. 3613-964

SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 SAN MARINO/ SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028

MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080

SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel. 2666-124 fax 3440-221

MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499

SLOVAČKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820

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BEOGRADSKA BERZA - BELGRADE STOCK EXCANGE Omladinskih brigada 1, tel. 3221-599/ www.belex.co.rs

NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE ADDRESS REAL ESTATE JSCO SERBIA, Nemanjina 40/7, tel.365-00-90 www.address.co.rs BEYOND REAL ESTATE, Despota Djurdja 13, tel. 292-0377 www.beyond-realestate.com BRADMORE CONSULTING & LEASING, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel./fax: 2637-570 COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 20, tel. 2663-863, fax.3674-538

DANOS GROUP, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 2600-603, www.danos.rs EURENT, Dobračina 21, tel.2623-395, 2620-680 EURODIPLOMATIC, Real Estate & Rental Agency, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, 308-68-79 mob.065/606 6 606 INVEST-IMPORT, Terazije 5, tel. 3220-027, 3248-081 MENTOR REAL ESTATE AGENCY, Mileševska 2, tel. 308-90-80, 308-90-81 fax.308-90-82 www.mentorrent.co.rs

PC UŠĆE, EC, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85b, tel. 3010-858 fax 3010-813 R.BeO CONSTRUCTION d.o.o, mob. 063/203-929 VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466 fax 2920-472 mob.062/282-434 www.vosmediator.co.rs

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 /www.savacentar.com

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 ŠVAJCARSKA/SWITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 Odeljenje za vize/ Visa Section, tel. 3065-815

ŠVEDSKA/SWEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 (except Wednesday)

TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 2651-848 TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998 Konzulat/Consular Section tel. 2660-247 VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 2659-651 UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3674-006 fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201

PRIVREDNE KOMORE - CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Terazije 23, tel. 3248-123 PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Resavska 13-15, tel. 3300-900 www.pks.komora.net PRIVREDNA KOMORA BEOGRADA, Kneza Miloša 12, tel. 2641-355 www.kombeg.org.rs BANKE - BANKS NARODNA BANKA SRBIJE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. 3248-841/ www.nbs.rs UDRUŽENJE BANAKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN ASSOCIATON OF BANKS, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 86/II, tel. 3020-760/ www.usb-asb.com

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Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

TURISTIČKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS, Makenzijeva 26, t el. 2430-852, www.metropoliten.com EXCLUSIVE TOURS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3227-539 www.exclusivetours.co.rs MAGELAN CORPORATION, Novi Sad, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 021/6624-823 www.magelan.rs PAN EUROPA ADRIATIC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 33, tel. 3242-187 www.adriatic.co.rs

PANACOMP TRAVEL TOURISM AND TRADE, Novi Sad, Bulevar Cara Lazara 102, tel. 021/ 466-075 www.panacomp.net

VEKOL TOURS, Knez Mihailova 6/III, tel. 3282-689 www.vekoltours.com

KUPOVINA – SHOPPING ZLATARE - JEWELERS JOKIĆ JEWELRY&WATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAESTRO JEWELERS, Continental hotel Beograd, tel. 311-1459, 311-3333 ext.721 Kolarčeva 4, tel. 303 30 91 VITANOV, Vasina 14, RK Beograd, tel. 2181 394 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990

USLUGE - SERVICES INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525 INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557 BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 13, tel.2666-669 fax.3066-892 www. british-int-school.org.uk

CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 fax.3675-340 www.chartwellinternational.org

DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135 ECOLE FRANCAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762 INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL BELGRADE, Nake Spasić 4, tel.2667-130 www.insb.co.rs INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.3690-113, 2651-832 www.isb.co.rs LOGOS, Kvarnerska 4, tel./fax 3693-059, 3693-060 www.logosinternationalschool.com PADDINGTON SUNFLOWER , Belville, tel. 069-750-930 PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Kvarnerska 4, tel. 369-3060 www. primainterschoolbelgrade.com RUSSIAN SCHOOL, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 2163-883

MOBILNI OPERATORI / MOBILE OPERATORS 063 TELENOR, Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. 063/9863 www.telenor.co.rs 064 TELEKOM SRBIJA, Makedonska 2, tel. 064/789 www.telekom.rs 060 VIP MOBILE, Omladinskih brigada 21, 060/1234 www.vipmobile.rs BILET SERVIS - TICKET SERVICE BILET SERVIS, Trg Republike 5, tel. 30 333 11, 063/ 33 70 33 www.biletservis.co.rs EVENTIM YU D.O.O., Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 113, ulaz 3, Novi Beograd, tel./fax 144-438 www. eventim-yu.com

TICKETLINE, ugao Knez Mihailove i Čika Ljubine-Plato Music Store, tel.2030-570 www. ticketline.co.rs

TIKET SERVIS, mob. 065/888 0 555, www.tiketservis.com

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 DEŽURNI ZUBARI - EMERGENCY DENTISTS

NOVI BEOGRAD, Goce Delčeva 30, tel. 2222-100 STARI GRAD, Obilićev venac 30, tel. 2635- 236, 24-hour VRAČAR, Ivana Milutinovića 15, tel. 244-1413, 24-hour APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923 BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIČKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIĆ, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIČKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122 PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 3065-888, Koste Jovanovića 87, tel.309-1000 EPILION, Admirala Geprata 13, tel. 361-1420, 361-0015 JEVREMOVA, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. 328-1051, 638-265 KLINIKA PETKOVIĆ, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 MEDIKOM, Braničevska 8/1, tel. 3443-781, 3089-186 PAPIĆ, Milovana Marinkovića 23, tel. 397-1772, 397-4484 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808

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VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436

SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIĆ”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RADNIČKI”, Tošin bunar 190, tel. 2699-119 OMLADINSKI STADION, Mije Kovačevića 10a, tel. 3291-514 ZEMUNELO, Mostarska 12, Zemun, tel. 3164-493 BAZENI - SWIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.rs JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835 LEDENA DVORANA - ICE HALL PIONIR, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.2766-667 HALE SPORTOVA - SPORT CENTERS BEOGRADSKA ARENA, Novi Beograd, Španskih boraca 20, tel. 2133-516 BG SPORTSKI CENTAR KOVILOVO, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 DOM SPORTOVA “PINKI”, Gradski park 2, Zemun, tel. 3160-270 CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU “VRAČAR”, Sjenička 1, tel. 2452-342 CENTAR ZA KULTURU I SPORT “ŠUMICE”, Ustanička 125, tel. 289-4533 GRADSKI CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU, Deligradska 27, tel. 2658-747 SRC “TAŠMAJDAN”, Ilije Garašanina 26-28, tel.3240-901 SRC “PIONIRSKI GRAD”, Kneza Višeslava 27, tel. 3542-094 SC “25. MAJ”, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. 2622-866 SRC “BANJICA”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 SC “VOŽDOVAC”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-780 SC “ZVEZDARA”, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 SC “KOŠUTNJAK”, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7555-461 SC “PIONIR”, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel. 2766-566 SRC “11. APRIL”, Autoput 2, Novi Beograd, tel. 2671-547 PALATA SPORTOVA, Pariske komune 20, tel. 2601-658

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‫ﻥﻱﺭﺵﻉﻭ ﺓﻉﺏﺱ‬ Dvacet sedm Zeven en twintig Tjuesyvogtyve Tjugoyvå Kaksikymmentä seitsemän Syv og tyve Dwadzieścia siedem Twenty seven Vingt-sept

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Restaurant -gallery 27 Istarska 27 11000 Belgrade, Serbia Tel: +381(0) 11 2651-831 Fax: +381(0) 11 3692-079 www.restoran27.com i27@eunet.rs

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Sakupljajte milje uz Miles & More program. Plaćanje je u dinarskoj protivvrednosti po važećem kursu. Iznos u dinarima - 10.003 na dan 09.05.2011. Cena povratne avio karte sa svim uključenim taksama. Važe specijalni uslovi. Broj mesta je ograničen. Informacije i rezervacije - telefon +381 11 3248077 www.austrian.com ili u Vašoj turističkoj agenciji.