BelGuest magazine - winter 2011 by miroslav zeljug

Belgrade and Serbia Visitors’ Magazine

BELGRADE 2020 DISCOVER SERBIA NOVI SAD, APATIN, NIŠ, KRUŠEVAC...

INTERVIEW DRAGAN BJELOGRLIĆ BELGRADE EVENTS & SIGHTSEEING BELGUEST TRAVELOGUE ISRAEL

Volume 11, WINTER 2010/11

free copy

Dance Festival, Ballet Providence

IN THIS ISSUE / IZ SADRŽAJA 6

6 BELGRADE  CANDIDATE CITY FOR EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE CITY OF THE FUTURE GRAD BUDUĆNOSTI

12 INTERVIEW  DRAGAN BJELOGRLIĆ 12

LIFE IS WHEN YOU HAVE A DREAM ŽIVOT JE KADA IMAŠ SAN

22 LITERARY GUIDE  ALEKSANDAR POPOVIĆ 22

PATH OF DEVELOPMENT OF A RARE TALENT RAZVOJNI PUT MAJSTORA

2 8 P A V L O V I Ć F A M I LY H O M E HOUSE OF WONDERFUL SOULS KUĆA DIVNIH DUŠA 28

3 2 SHIP WRECKS OF THE BELGRADE AQUATORIUM STROLLING ALONG THE RIVERBEDS ŠETNJA KORITOM SAVE I DUNAVA 4 4 INTERVIEW  MIKHAIL VIKTOROVICHS LIPENCHUK THERE IS ONLY ONE DIRECTION PRAVAC JE SAMO JEDAN 6 0 SPA CENTRES IN BELGRADE A WELLNESS METROPOLIS WELLNESS METROPOLA

66 CITY BREAK NOVI SAD THE CITY FROM A FEMALE PERSPECTIVE GRAD IZ ŽENSKOG UGLA 83 THREE IDEAL DAYS IN NIŠ SOUTHERN PERFECTION JUŽNJAČKO SAVRŠENSTVO

99 TRAVELS - IZRAEL PUTOPIS – IZRAEL 104 BELGRADE INFO

Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 62 tel./fax 323 12 44, 322 64 05, mob tel. 065/84 97 582 e-mail: office@belguest.rs, www.belguest.rs Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.rs www.tob.co.rs Publisher - Izdavač: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Copublisher - Suizdavač: Dejan Veselinov, vd direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Jadranka Đorđević Contributors - Saradnici: Jelena Tasić, Jovo Anđić, Andrej Klemenčič, Jelena Ilić, Rozana Sazdić, Gordana Miljojković, Gordana Stojaković, Aleksandar Miloradović, Sonja Stojmenović Photographs- Fotografije: Dragan Bosnić, Danilo Peternek Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević English language editor - Lektor za engleski: Mark R. Pullen Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design&Layout - Dizajn i prelom: Miroslav Zeljug Print - Štampa: Službeni glasnik, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization Front Page - Naslovna strana: Theme of the Belgrade 2020 Agenda “Danube orientation”. Photography, Nikola Tomović. CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BEL Guest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief Dragana Marković. - 2001, winter/spring- . - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Službeni glasnik). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010.: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

Danilo Peternek BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

E D I T O R I A L

U V O D N I K

ur great journalist, Peca Popović, selected genius Duško Radović’s text “Traveller! Welcome to Belgrade” for the start of the first printed agenda of Belgrade 2020, city applying for the title of European Capital of Culture. The love shown for one’s own city is the most beautiful invitation to those who want to visit it. “The observatory of the history of the world for which the entrance fee is a kiss” is something most beautiful that describes Belgrade. Yet the text of Belgrade’s favourite writer is a romantic overview of Belgrade, whose spirit we are seeking to restore. I live the life of an average Belgrader who remembers the time when we were growing up; when we read more, went to cinemas, theatres and concerts, played football and basketball and formed amateur rock bands. Our life goals did not simply melt away and vanish under vices and armed clashes. We sought models around the world, among artists, scientists and writers. Then things somehow turned around. I bade farewell to my best friends at the airports of Belgrade and Budapest and said goodbye to my parents repeatedly. That’s why I tend to avoid the beautiful Budapest and quickly depart from farewells. As a society we have lost a lot over the past twenty years. The question is what has remained for these new kids? If I say that our aim with the initiative for a new cultural strategy project for the next ten years - including Belgrade’s candidacy for the title of European Capital of Culture (ECC) - was to restore the atmosphere of life with some better prospects for us and our children, you should know that this is true. This is the point my colleague, Marko Maršićević, and I started from. Marko actually created conditions for this activity to begin and if he had not recognised its value the next chance would only have been possible in ten years. Like many, we still believe that Belgrade is one of the most interesting cities to visit for a short break. When we spoke with many people from the EU last year, we did not know that a positive reaction would be forthcoming so quickly. For us the title of ECC is not a project, but rather our life task. Our project is specific because it represents the process of restoring human values. Our city has great potential – I have heard from foreigners that Belgrade is the Berlin of the Balkan region in an artistic sense and has an atmosphere suitable for creativity. Aleksandar Peković Chairman of the Organising Committee of Belgrade’s Candidacy for European Capital of Culture and Deputy Belgrade Culture Secretary

ekst Duška Radovića „Putniče namerniče! Dobrodošao u Beograd“ naš novinar Peca Popović odabrao je za početak prve štampane agende „Beograd 2020, grad u postupku kandidature za EPK“. Iskazana ljubav prema svome gradu najlepša je pozivnica za sve one koji žele da ga posete. „Opservatorija istorije sveta za koju je poljubac ulaznica“ – nešto je najlepše što opisuje Beograd. A tekst omiljenog beogradskog pisca romantični je prikaz jednog Beograda čiji duh želimo da vratimo. Živim život prosečnog Beograđanina, koji se seća vremena kada smo, odrastajući, mnogo više čitali, išli u bioskope, pozorišta, na koncerte, igrali fudbal i basket ili pravili amaterske rok bendove. Nisu nam se životni ciljevi topili i nestajali u porocima i oružanim obračunima. Tražili smo uzore po celom svetu, među umetnicima, naučnicima, piscima. Onda su se stvari nekako okrenule. Ispratio sam najbolje prijatelje sa beogradskog i budimpeštanskog aerodroma i sam se više puta pozdravljao s roditeljima. Zato zaobilazim inače prelepu Budimpeštu i brzo odlazim na rastancima. Mnogo smo izgubili kao društvo poslednjih dvadeset godina. Šta ostaje ovim novim klincima? Ako kažem da smo inicijativom projekta nove kulturne strategije grada za narednih deset godina, u okviru koje je kandidatura Beograda za EPK, želeli da povratimo atmosferu života s nekom boljom perspektivom za našu decu i nas, znajte da je to istina. Odatle smo počeli moj kolega Marko Maršićević i ja. Marko je zapravo stvorio uslove da se ova aktivnost započne i da on nije prepoznao njenu vrednost, naredna šansa bila bi moguća tek za desetak godina. I dalje, poput mnogih, verujemo da je Beograd jedan od najzanimljivijih gradova za privremeni boravak. Kada smo tokom prošle godine razgovarali s mnogim ljudima iz EU, nismo ni slutili da će pozitivne reakcije tako brzo stići. Za nas titula EPK nije projektni nego životni zadatak. Naš projekat je specifičan, jer predstavlja proces obnove ljudskih vrednosti. Naš grad ima veliki potencijal – od stranaca sam čuo, Beograd je Berlin regije Balkana u umetničkom smislu i atmosferi pogodnoj za kreativnost. Aleksandar Peković predsednik organizacionog odbora kandidature Beograda za evropsku prestonicu kulture i zamenik gradskog sekretаrа zа kulturu

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

B e lg r a d e – c a n d i d at e c i t y f o r e u r o p e a n c a p i ta l o f c u lt u r e 2 0 2 0

CITY OF THE FUTURE Belgrade, the Serbian capital, one of the oldest cities of Europe and the “City of the Future of Southern Europe”, according to a 2006 poll by the Financial Times, has announced its candidacy for the title of European Capital of Culture 2020. 6

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Gallery of the Serbian Academy of Science and Art

he project “Belgrade 2020, city applying for the title of european capital of culture 2020” carried out throughout the whole of last year was presented on 7th december 2010 in Brussels, where representatives of Belgrade should participate in public consultations, scheduled for early March, on the future of the european capital of culture project. formal consultations with the european commission’s directorate for culture and education ended on 12th January. - We have already received support in Brussels from the european commission for enlargement, whose position is also considered. By the end of 2011 the european commission needs to complete work and send a proposal for a new decision to the european parliament and european council. this body will meet for the first time in early 2012, after which it will adopt a decision on new rules of participation and the countries to gain this title, explains aleksandar peković, chairman of the organisational Board in charge of Belgrade’s application for the title of european capital of culture 2020, in an interview with Belguest. according to peković, given the fact that applicant countries and cities have been set until 2019 and that new rules will be established with the new set of countries whose cities will run for this title in the following period, Belgrade can potentially plan to gain the title of european capital of culture by 2020 or later. asked if there had previously been a specific reason in terms of culture, or any other aspect of life, that meant Belgrade 2020 would be out of competition, aleksandar peković insists: the european capital of culture, as a project, does not recognise this kind of preference. He says that the candidate cities, each of which have some sort of special feature of their own, are not compared in terms beauty, historic significance or other criteria, but are rather graded on the basis of projects and their feasibility. - the fact that the city of Belgrade has not had a long-term strategic project in the field of culture in recent history led us to create the concept of a ten-year gradual development

plan in this area in which the last, final phase will be to run as a candidate for the european capital of culture 2020. on the other hand, “round-number” years are particularly interesting and perhaps even more motivating for the organisers, peković notes. COMPETING WITH ROMANIAN AND IRISH CITIES the very concept of the european capital of culture, which will mark its 35th birthday in 2020, was conceived in 1985 during a conversation between famous greek actress and former greek culture Minister, Melina Mercouri, and her french counterpart, Jack lang, while she was seeing him off from athens airport. in June that year a resolution of the eu council of Ministers launched the project and the first european capital of culture was, naturally, athens. So far, 42 european cities have been declared cultural capitals of the “old continent”. Since 2000, instead of just one city, several cities have carried the title of european capital of culture each year and the selection was extended to countries beyond the eu. Moreover, as of 2013 competition among cities within selected countries will be introduced. the procedure sees a candidate city selected five years prior to officially gaining the title of european capital of culture. in addition to gaining this title, the selected city is awarded the Melina Mercouri prize, worth €1.5 million. for now, we know only that Belgrade’s 2020 bid will see it compete against three romanian cities (timisoara, cluj-napoca and iasi), while ireland has not yet revealed the name of its candidate. EUROPEAN IDENTITY as recommended by the european commission, the candidate should present the city and the role it has, or has had, in european culture; its european identity, as well as demonstrating ongoing processes of european artistic and cultural trends. Belgrade will have the task of placing into a “european context” its long and turbulent history, the mixture of peoples and religions that have lived, and still live, there, as well as their traditions, which is woven into the cultural identity of the city. in developing the concept of the “Belgrade strategy”, the experiences of previous capitals - especially liverpool, lille and

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Dance Festival, Netherlands Dance Theatre istanbul - were considered. - the role of a european capital of culture is to be at the centre of the cultural and artistic processes that are taking place today and will be current and relevant in europe tomorrow. Hence, we need to take not one step, but rather several moves away from already generated models that mostly dealt with issues of urban regeneration and the creation of prestigious institutions, explains Milena dragićević-Šešić, who headed the team of authors preparing the concept of the strategy, speaking to Belguest. according to her - Belgrade’s cultural model, to be implemented as of 2011, is a model of a cosmopolitan, open city – in terms of its discontinued historical memory and various concepts of the future and future development. the tenyear strategy includes a programme schedule that brings into focus one of the multiple identities of Belgrade each year until 2020: Belgrade as a city of rivers, political centre, cosmopolitan city, Balkan city, city of science, industrial hub, child-friendly city, green city, city of culture, city of complex memories etc. the theme for 2011 is Belgrade, city of light, under the current operating slogan: “the world’s in the making” and “i light well”, which will be the subject of exhibitions, theatrical and musical performances and other artistic events. the following events have been announced: opening of the new building of the yugoslav film archive, as well as the launching of long-term projects such as the conservation and restoration of Belgrade fortress and Kalemegdan park, essential for the status of cultural property under the protection of uneSco; providing the location and plan for the future concert hall of the Belgrade philharmonic orchestra; developing the concept of a permanent exhibition of the Museum of the city of Belgrade; reviving Belgrade’s comics’ scene etc. Belgrade’s partner cities for this year’s activities will be Kragujevac, perugia, leipzig, lyon, Helsinki, essen and Stockholm.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Collections of the Museum of Science & Technology

CULTURAL “CONSUMER BASKET” Belgrade’s cultural life is intense almost throughout the entire year. the most important regular events are the international film festival (feSt), Belgrade documentary and Short film festival, international Book fair, Belgrade international theatre festival (Bitef), international Music youth competition, Belgrade dance festival, Belgrade Summer festival (Belef), the international meeting of children of europe “Joy of europe”, the film festival in Sopot, Belgrade Jazz festival, october Salon and May Salon, guitar art festival etc. - Belgrade today has nearly 20,000 events a year. in this sense, it is rich in terms of quantity, but the inherited system is little changed in recent decades and does not anticipate a new time and new circumstances. changes are necessary in order to preserve the vital part of culture and establish a new modern system, which includes strategic planning. it is important for Belgrade and Belgrade Opera, scene from Cinderella

A Sava Centre music scene the european capital of culture project can motivate this process and make us use the european experiences that we have used very little, says Marko Maršićević, Vice chairman of the organising committee and councillor at Belgrade city Hall. in 2020 Belgrade will mark several anniversaries: 190th anniversary of the announcement of Hatisherif restoring Serbia’s national independence, 180 years since holding the first public ball in Belgrade and Serbia (in honour of the birthday of prince Mihailo obrenović), the establishment of the first public postal office and the celebration of Saint Sava day, as the patron saint of schools; 115 years since the official launch of Belgrade university - formerly the great School; a century since the coronation of yugoslav King aleksandar

Solar Eclipse, Ivan Bosilj

i Karađorđević; 55 years since the first rock guitar festival was organised at Belgrade fair, four decades since the death of Josip Broz tito and two decades after Serbia’s political changes of october 2000. JeLena taSiĆ

CONSTANTINOPLE ON THE RIVERS

Belgrade has an exceptional geographic and hydro-geographic position at the confluence of two large international rivers, the Sava and the Danube, and along traditional routes between Central Europe and the Middle East. Belgrade’s geographical coordinates are marked on the city’s main pedestrian street of Knez Mihailova. The city is located 116.75 metres above sea level and marks the 1,170th kilometre of the Danube, as measured from its source in Schwarzwald Mountain (Black Forest). Many found its silhouette from the rivers and the relation of water and land reminiscent of a riverside version of Constantinople. Despot Stefan Lazarević, who declared Belgrade his capital in 1397, compared it with Zion, according to records of his biographer, Constantine the Philosopher. - This city was truly on seven hills. For the highest hill of Belgrade and the most beautiful, similar to Zion, was the image of holy Jerusalem..., wrote, among other things, Constantine the Philosopher. In one chapter of Hamam Balkania, by contemporary Serbian writer Vladislav Bajac, Mimar Sinan - the greatest builder of the Golden Age of the Ottoman Empire - explains to Mehmed Pasha Sokolovic:...I’ve compared the positions of Belgrade and Istanbul on various maps, namely their parts known under the names of Kalemegdan and the Golden Horn, and here is what I have concluded: Belgrade has the Sava on one side and the Danube on the other, while Istanbul has the Black Sea on one side and the Marmara on the other. It does not change a thing. Water is water. After all, what’s important about it is its width and depth. More information about this topic can be found at: www.beograd2020.com

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Princess Ljubica’s Residence

Buskers / street entertainers

B e o g r a d – K a n d i dat Z a e V r o p S K u p r e S to n i c u K u lt u r e 2020. g o d i n e

GRAD BUDUĆNOSTI

Beograd, prestonica Srbije, jedan od najstarijih evropskih gradova, a prema anketi „Fajnenšel tajmsa“ iz 2006, i „grad budućnosti južne Evrope“, kandidovao se za evropsku prestonicu kulture 2020. godine.

rojekat „Beograd u pripremi kandidature za evropsku prestonicu kulture 2020“, na kojem je rađeno tokom cele prošle godine, 7. decembra 2010. predstavljen je u Briselu, gde bi predstavnici Beograda početkom marta trebalo da učestvuju na javnim konsultacijama o budućnosti projekta evropske prestonice kulture. Konsultacije sa direktorijatom za kulturu i obrazovanje evropske komisije završene su 12. januara. – u Briselu smo već dobili podršku i od evropske komisije za proširenje, čiji se stav takođe uzima u obzir. do kraja 2011. evropska komisija treba da završi rad i predlog nove odluke uputi evropskom parlamentu i savetu. to telo će se prvi put sastati početkom 2012, da bi potom usvojilo odluku o novim pravilima učešća i o zemljama koje će dobiti ovu laskavu titulu – objašnjava za Belguest aleksandar peković, predsednik Organizacionog odbora kandidature Beograda za evropsku prestonicu kulture i zamenik gradskog sekretаrа zа kulturu. peković kaže da, imajući u vidu činjenicu da je određen raspored država koje će kandidovati gradove zaključno sa 2019, a da se za kasnije uspostavljaju nova pravila sa novim rasporedom država čiji će gradovi poneti ove titule, Beograd bi mogao da planira 2020. i naredne godine za dobijanje titule evropske prestonice kulture. na pitanje da li postoji konkretan razlog u prošlosti, kulturi ili bilo kom drugom delu života zbog kog bi Beograd 2020. bio van konkurencije, aleksandar peković odgovara da „evropska prestonica kulture kao projekat ne priznaje takvu vrstu povlašćenosti“. on kaže da se gradovi, od kojih svaki ima neku posebnost, ne upoređuju po lepoti, istorijskom značaju i drugim kriterijumima, nego se ocenjuju projekti i njihova izvodljivost. – Činjenica da grad Beograd u novijoj istoriji nije imao dugoročni strateški projekat u oblasti kulture navela nas je na stvaranje koncepta desetogodišnjeg postepenog razvoja u ovoj oblasti u okviru koje je poslednja, finalna faza 2020. godina i kandidatura za evropsku prestonicu kulture. S druge strane, „okrugle“

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

godine su predmet posebnog zanimanja i možda su dodatna motivacija za organizatore – napominje peković. NADMETANJE SA RUMUNSKIM I IRSKIM GRADOVIMA Sama ideja o evropskoj prestonici kulture će te 2020. proslaviti 35. rođendan. nastala je u januaru 1985, u razgovoru čuvene grčke glumice i tadašnje ministarke kulture grčke Meline Merkuri s njenim francuskim kolegom Žakom langom, dok ga je pratila na atinski aerodrom. Već u junu iste godine rezolucijom ministara eu pokrenut je taj projekat, a prva evropska prestonica kulture, prirodno, bila je atina. do sada su 42 grada u evropi bila „kontinentalne“ prestonice kulture. od 2000. se umesto jedan grad za evropsku prestonicu kulture proglašava više gradova, izbor je proširen i na države izvan eu, a od 2013. biće uvedeno takmičenje između gradova unutar odabranih zemalja. procedurom je predviđeno da se grad kandidat bira pet godina pre nego što će poneti titulu evropske prestonice kulture. pored te titule, gradu koji dobije kandidaturu dodeljuje se i nagrada „Melina Merkuri“ u iznosu od 1,500.000 evra. Za sada se zna samo da će se Beograd u konkurenciji za 2020. nadmetati sa tri rumunska grada (temišvar, Kluž-napoka i Jaši), dok irska još nije otkrila ime svog kandidata. EVROPSKI IDENTITET prema preporukama Komisije eu, kandidat treba da predstavi grad i njegovu ulogu koju ima ili je imao u evropskoj kulturi, njegov evropski identitet, i da pokaže aktuelne procese uključivanja u evropske umetničke i kulturne tokove. na Beogradu je zadatak da u „evropskom kontekstu“ predstavi svoju dugu i burnu prošlost, mešavinu naroda i vera koji su u njemu živeli i žive njihovu tradiciju, koja je utkana u kulturni identitet grada. u izradi koncepta

Saborna cathedral church „beogradske strategije“ korišćena su i iskustva dosadašnjih prestonica, posebno liverpula, lila i istanbula. – uloga kulturne prestonice evrope znači biti središte kulturnih i umetničkih procesa koji traju danas, a koji će i sutra biti aktuelni i značajni u evropi. otuda treba ići ne jedan nego nekoliko koraka dalje od već ostvarenih modela, koji su se uglavnom bavili pitanjima urbane regeneracije ili stvaranja prestižnih institucija – objašnjava za Belguest Milena dragićević – Šešić, koja je vodila autorski tim u pripremi koncepcije strategije. „Beogradski kulturni model“, čije ostvarivanje počinje 2011, prema njenim rečima, „podrazumeva model kosmopolitskog, otvorenog grada i prema svom prekinutom istorijskom pamćenju i prema različitim koncepcijama budućnosti i budućeg razvoja“. desetogodišnja strategija obuhvata i programsku šemu u okviru koje svaka godina do 2020. dovodi u vidokrug jedan od mnogostrukih identiteta Beograda: Beograd kao grad na rekama, politički centar, kosmopolitski grad, balkanski grad, grad nauke, industrijsko sedište, grad po meri

CARIGRAD NA REKAMA

Beograd ima izuzetan geografski i hidrogeografski položaj na ušću dve velike međunarodne reke, Save u Dunav, i na putnim pravcima između centralne Evrope i Bliskog istoka. Geografske koordinate Beograda obeležene su u glavnoj gradskoj ulici Knez Mihailovoj. Grad se nalazi na 116,75 metara nadmorske visine i na 1170. kilometru toka Dunava, mereno od njegovog izvorišta na Švarcvaldu. Njegova silueta s reka i odnos vode i kopna mnoge podseća na „rečno“ izdanje Carigrada, a despot Stefan Lazarević, koji je 1397. Beograd proglasio za svoju prestonicu, poredio ga je, prema zapisima svog biografa Konstantina Filozofa, sa Sionom. „Ovaj grad beše vaistinu sedmovrh. Jer najčešće uzvišenje u Beogradu i najkrasnije po izgledu slično Sinonu bila je slika višnjega Jerusalima…“, zabeležio je, između ostalog, Konstantin Filozof, dok u jednom od poglavlja „Hamam Balkanije“, koji je napisao savremeni srpski pisac Vladislav Bajac, najveći graditelj zlatnog doba Osmanskog carstva mimar Sinan objašnjava Mehmed-paši Sokoloviću: „… Upoređivao sam na raznoraznim mapama položaje Beograda i Istanbula, tačnije njihovih delova znanih pod imenima Kalemegdan i Zlatni rog, e evo do čega sam došao: Beogradu je s jedne strane Sava, a sa druge Dunav, a Istanbulu s jedne strane Crno more, a sa druge Mramorno. To ne menja na stvari. Voda je voda. Kod nje je, uvek, uostalom, bila važnija dubina od širine.“ Više informacija o ovoj temi: www.beograd2020.com.

Eurocentre Gallery during the Night of Museums deteta, zeleni grad, grad kulture, grad složenih uspomena... tema za 2011. je „Beograd grad svetlosti“, čiji su za sada radni slogani: „Svetovi u nastajanju“ i „dobro svetlim“, a koji će biti tema izložbi, pozorišnih, muzičkih i drugih umetničkih manifestacija. najavljeni su: otvaranje nove zgrade Jugoslovenske kinoteke, te pokretanje dugoročnih poslova, poput konzervacije i restauracije Beogradske tvrđave i parka Kalemegdana, bitnih za dobijanje statusa kulturnog dobra pod zaštitom uneska, obezbeđivanje lokacije i izrada projekta za buduću koncertnu salu Beogradske filharmonije, razvoj programske koncepcije stalne postavke Muzeja grada Beograda, oživljavanja beogradske strip scene... partneri Beograda u ovogodišnjim aktivnostima biće Kragujevac, peruđa, lajpcig, lion, Helsinki, esen i Štokholm. KULTURNA „POTROŠAČKA KORPA“ Kulturni život Beograda intenzivan je gotovo tokom cele godine. od stalnih manifestacija najznačajnije su: Međunarodni filmski festival (fest), Beogradski festival dokumentarnog i kratkometražnog filma, Međunarodni sajam knjiga, Beogradski internacionalni teatarski festival (Bitef), Međunarodno takmičenje muzičke omladine, Beogradski festival igre, Beogradski letnji festival (Belef), Međunarodni susret dece evrope „radost evrope“, filmski festival u Sopotu, Beogradski džez festival, oktobarski i Majski salon, „gitar art festival“... – Beograd danas ima blizu 20.000 događaja u toku godine. u tom smislu je bogat kada je reč o kvantitetu, ali nasleđeni sistem, koji je malo promenjen u prethodnim decenijama, ne anticipira novo vreme i nove okolnosti. neophodne su promene da bi se očuvali vitalni delovi kulture i postavio nov, moderan sistem, koji podrazumeva i strateško planiranje. to je važno zbog Beograda, a projekat evropske prestonice kulture može da motiviše ovaj proces i da nas postavi u ravan evropskih iskustava koja smo malo koristili – napominje Marko Maršićević, potpredsednik Organizacionog odbora i odbornik u Skupštini grаdа Beograda. Beograd će inače 2020. obeležiti nekoliko jubileja: 190 godina od proglašenja Hatišerifa, kojim je obnovljena srpska državna samostalnost, 180 godina od održavanja prvog javnog bala u Beogradu i Srbiji (u čast rođendana kneza Mihaila obrenovića), osnivanja prve javne pošte i proslave Svetog Save kao školske slave, 115 godina od zvaničnog nastanka Beogradskog univerziteta, u koji je prerasla dotadašnja Velika škola, vek od stupanja na tadašnji jugoslovenski presto kralja aleksandra prvog Karađorđevića, 55 godina od održavanja prve gitarijade na Beogradskom sajmu, četiri decenije od smrti Josipa Broza i dve decenije od oktobarskih političkih promena u Srbiji. JeLena taSiĆ

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Dragan Bjelogrlić, actor, proDucer anD Director

LIFE IS WHEN YOU HAVE A DREAM In this period of my life I am trying to correct some mistakes. If at some earlier period, rushing after everything you chase at the age of 30, I forgot to be a friend, or the way the boy Stanoje says, if I forgot to dream, to love life – now I am trying to make up for all that. That comprehension of mine was woven into the beginning and end of the film “Montevideo”: life is when you have a dream and if that dream becomes reality, not even death is the end of life. And only about ten years ago I would never have started or finished a film in that way.

o our great joy, the path of maturity and learning the art of living mentioned above led Dragan Bjelogrlić to a number of recognitions and one prevailing opinion that emerged from his directorial debut film Montevideo, bog te video (montevideo, god Bless You). people have recognised this in the way they recognise all that is honest and true. this is a film that radiates serenity, follows the line of the heart and has managed to fill the half-empty cinemas of Belgrade. i cannot tell you that Montevideo has patted us on the back or been merciful to us – that would not be enough. it gave us what we needed: awareness that there are achievable dreams. even Dragan Bjelogrlić’s biography itself evokes that same tone. He starred in his first film, Boško Buha, when he was still a small boy in 1978. Since then he has appeared in more than 40 films, about 20 tV series and dramas, as well as 11 theatre plays. in 1994 he formed production company Cobra with his brother goran, who signed some of the most important Serbian contemporary films: pretty Village, pretty Flame (lepa sela lepo gore), Wounds (rane), War live (rat uživo), a Small World (mali svet) etc. Speaking in an interview a few years ago, you said that you wanted to make films about a healthy Serbia: “A whole generation that grew up in Serbia as a reserve of war criminals must know that Serbia is older than all of us and that it will exist in the future. I want the people leaving the cinema to feel privileged to live in a country that has a diverse and rich past, and therefore feel they have the right to believe this country has a future.” Is Montevideo such a film? - Montevideo was created on the traces of that wish of mine. this is such a film. about five or six years ago, when i spoke on the topic, i simply recognised that tendency. However later, unfortunately, a complete deviation occurred in our filmmaking industry, contained in the fact that filmmakers acted as if they had the responsibility to deal with some sort of generally sick Serbia. it was, on the one hand, the onset of a film direction and, on the other, the prevailing atmosphere in which everything connected to modern Serbia was terrible and filled with evil. i won’t say that something like that does not exist.

Belgrade 1929, as depicted in the film Montevideo of course such elements exist - the way there are bright and dark spots in the history of all countries. i’m only sure that this is not the predominant colour, a fact, or a constant that determines our lives, our people and our country. and i do not mind, really, that the film industry deals with one or the other theme, but to insist only on the dark side of Serbia is really a turn-off. at the time of that interview you quoted there was only a hint of such a sequence, but by a year ago, when we started working on Montevideo, that problem had become much greater. it was that feeling, and not any ideological reasoning, that made me decide to make Montevideo as a completely light-hearted, positive story. What feelings inspired those other films that you are talking about? - i would say that they emerged due to a lack of imagination and lack of talent. or because it was just a “safe card” to play.

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Working with young actors

And this card is called “Spit and sing”? - Something like that. it is a safe card to deal with the seed of evil that sprouted in the Balkans and has its strongest roots in Serbia. even if that’s partially true, we’ve dealt with it quite a lot. there is probably something else in this country, some other people, other worlds. Even though you once said that you don’t follow the path of Hollywood, your career has the pace of a successful Hollywood, or rather ‘modern’, film career: an actor who first becomes a producer and then a director. That makes film a harmonious entirety that, looking from outside, does not appear to have a single mistake. How did you learn to direct? - my path towards direction came with practice. as an actor, while taking part in the shooting of films and series, i also learned directing. my production practice is also a very important segment. then i made a decisive step to go behind the camera and take part in what is called the creation of a film; to follow a project from the design concept to its life in cinemas. those two lives of mine, one in front of the camera and one behind, are my foundations for directing. The expected advantage of an actor–director is working with actors. It seems that you achieved the maximum working with young actors and, so to say, making use of older, more experienced colleagues? - i assumed that there wouldn’t be any problems in that part of directing; that i’d manage that part the best. and it is a wonderful experience. Working with young actors, some of whom were having their first appearance in front of the camera, required a bit more concentration and attention. it is interesting that i now often hear that some of my experienced colleagues gave their best performances in this film. that, of course, makes me happy.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Have you set out on the path of film festivals, premieres etc.? - We are working on that right now. in a few days we will have a closed screening for managers of world film festivals and distributors at the Berlin Festival. the film has been translated and we are trying to pave the way for it to reach an international audience. this is not an easy task. i think it is no longer a question of the quality of a film, but rather the lost habit of most of the world to watch films emerging from so-called small film industries and especially this kind of film, which Serbia has not produced for years. the question is how those people will now accept this kind of energy, emotion... Has the movie “lost something in translation”? - that always happens to a certain extent. We tried not to translate Montevideo literally, but rather to adapt it. as such, i don’t think it lost much. The film is also a well-measured amount of story told with a hint of a possible follow-up. Judging by the reaction of audiences, it would be nice for a follow-up to happen? - We will certainly continue telling the story through the series, but whether a film would emerge from that i still cannot tell. You said: “I’ve always been a romantic nationalist.” How would you present your romantic nationalism? Is it part of growing up, education, experience? - i don’t know precisely when this feeling was formed in me. as a youngster i read extensively Dobrica ćosić, crnjanski, andrić, Slobodan Selenić. they were able to awaken in me that romantic nationalism as a response to their works. it seems to me that in this respect, however, the 1990s were critical. When we started going precipitously downhill, i travelled around the world quite a lot following my films, starting with the Black Bomber (crni bom-

barder), then pretty Village, pretty Flame and Wounds. then i watched with great sadness as those other countries progressed and we had no idea how to organise ourselves. i was around 30 and i know that i felt a strong urge to help my people get off that downward slope. i believed deeply that those other nations were no better than us - neither smarter nor better educated. it’s as if we were never lucky enough to live normally. i remember i kept saying: ‘may this war ends as soon as possible, may sanctions be lifted, may this evil be stopped so that my generation and some younger people can get a chance to make something good of our Serbia.’ those wounds that i carried in me, facing the latest disasters that periodically hit our nation, incited the romantic nationalism you mentioned. Because if Yugoslavia had continued to live, if that great misfortune had not been so deeply rooted, i and many other people probably would not have created such a feeling. But this way is simply an emotional and cognitive response to the time we lived in and are living in, and a response to the fate of my people. people reacted differently during those ’90s and some even gave up on Serbia, saying that it will always be a dump on the edge of civilisation. i didn’t believe this to be true. i believed that we all needed to work together for that not to happen, rather than simply giving up. unfortunately, this dualism is still there. it’s easy for those people who gave up and left Serbia: they are really gone, but a much bigger problem is with the people who live and work here but work only for themselves, precisely because they too have given up on Serbia. they only see Serbia as a polygon for gaining personal wealth, so that their children can leave the country. i think this is our biggest problem today.

You have also been quoted as saying: “I think that now it’s important for the Serbian film industry to play well at home, rather than away”. The mission of Montevideo is somewhere visible there, with people returning to cinemas. - that quote is from the period when we started working on montevideo and i am pleased that you found it, because now i can say that we have succeeded. i am a natural optimist, always moving with positive energy, but such great success of the film ‘at home’ is somewhat unexpected even for me. We’ll see if can play this game with the same success ’away’. During the prologue of Montevideo, at one point the boy Stanoje says: “It does not matter how you are born, it matters what your life is like.” What is your life like? - i have been aware for some time that there are different periods in a man’s life. one of the wisdoms of the art of living says that every period bears its burden, but also has its advantages. in this period of my life i am trying to correct some mistakes. if at some earlier period, rushing after everything you chase at the age of 30, i forgot to be a friend, or the way Stanoje says, if i forgot to dream, to love life – now i am trying to make up for all that. that comprehension of mine has been woven into the beginning and end of the film Montevideo: life is when you have a dream and if that dream becomes reality, not even death is the end of life. and only about ten years ago i would have never started or finished a film in that way.” DraGana marKOViĆ

Still from the film Montevideo

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Dragan Bjelogrlić, glumac, proDucent i reDitelj

ŽIVOT JE KADA IMAŠ SAN U ovom dobu svoga života pokušavam da ispravim neke greške. Ako sam nekad ranije, jureći za svim onim za čim se juri sa trideset, zaboravio da budem prijatelj, ili, kako to kaže dečak Stanoje, zaboravio da sanjam, da volim život – sada se trudim da sve to nadoknadim. Ta moja spoznaja utkana je i u početak i kraj filma Montevideo: „Život je kada imaš san, a ako san postane stvarnost, onda ni smrt nije kraj života.“ A samo pre desetak godina ja na taj način nikako ne bih počeo niti završio film.

a našu veliku radost, putanja sazrevanja i učenja umeća življenja pomenuta u podnaslovu teksta dovela je Dragana Bjelogrlića do nekoliko spoznaja i osećanja iz koga je i nastao njegov rediteljski prvenac film Montevideo, bog te video. ljudi su to prepoznali onako kako prepoznaju sve što je iskreno i istinito. Film koji zrači vedrinom, koji dolazi linijom srca, ispunio je poluprazne i retke beogradske bioskope. ne mogu da kažem da nas je Montevideo potapšao po ramenu, ili pomazio po kosi – to ne bi bilo dovoljno. on nam je ipak dao ono što nam treba – svest o tome da postoje snovi koji se mogu ostvariti. Čak i biografija Dragana Bjelogrlića ima prizvuk tog istog tona. prvi film Boško Buha snimio je kao dečak 1978. godine. od tada je igrao u više od 40 filmova, dvadesetak tV serija i drama i 11 pozorišnih predstava. od 1994. je sa bratom goranom formirao producentsku kuću Kobra, koja potpisuje neke od najznačajnijih srpskih savremenih filmova: Lepa sela lepo gore, Rane, Rat uživo, Mali svet... Pre nekoliko godina u jednom razgovoru rekli ste da želite da napravite filmove o zdravoj Srbiji: „Čitava jedna generacija koja je odrasla u Srbiji kao rezervatu ratnih zločinaca mora da upozna Srbiju koja je starija od svih nas i koja će postojati u budućnosti. Želim da se čovek kada izađe iz bioskopa oseti privilegovan što živi u jednoj zemlji koja ima svoju prošlost, raznoliku i bogatu, a samim tim i da ima pravo da veruje kako ta zemlja ima i budućnost.“ Da li je Montevideo, bog te video jedan takav film? - Montevideo je nastao na tragu te moje želje. on jeste takav film. pre pet, šest godina, kada sam govorio o toj temi, jednostavno sam prepoznao težnju, a kasnije, nažalost, i potpunu devijantnost u našoj kinematografiji, kada su se filmski stvaraoci ponašali kao da im je obaveza da se bave nekom sveopštom bolesnom Srbijom. Bilo je to, s jedne strane, začeće filmskog pravca, a s druge opšta atmosfera, u kojoj je sve što se vezivalo za savremenu Srbiju bilo grozno, ispunjeno zlom. neću da kažem da nečeg takvog kod nas nema. naravno da takvi elementi postoje, kao što svetle i tamne strane postoje u istoriji svih država. uveren sam jedino u to da to nije osnovna boja, činjenica, niti je konstanta koja određuje naše živote, naš narod i našu zemlju. i ne smeta mi da se kinematografija bavi i jednom i drugom temom, ali kada se insistira samo na tamnoj strani Srbije, to postaje degutantno. u trenutku razgovora koji ste citirali postojao je samo nagoveštaj takvog sleda, pre godinu dana, kada smo

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

krenuli da radimo Montevideo, problem je bio neuporedivo veći. iz tog svog osećanja, a ne iz bilo kakvog ideološkog uporišta, odlučio sam da Montevideo bude potpuno vedra, pozitivna priča. Iz kog su osećanja nastajali ti drugi filmovi o kojima govorite? - rekao bih da su nastajali usled nemaštovitosti i nedostatka talenta. ili je samo postojala „sigurna karta“ na koju se igra. A ta karta se zove „Pljuni i zapevaj“… - tako nekako. pouzdana karta je da se bavimo semenom zla koje je proklijalo na Balkanu, a njegov najjači koren je u Srbiji. Da je, kažem, delom i tako, dosta smo se time bavili. Verovatno postoji i nešto drugo u ovoj zemlji, neki drugi ljudi, neki drugi svet. Iako ste jednom izjavili da ne idete u Holivud, Vaša karijera ima hod uspešne holivudske, u stvari savremene, filmske karijere: glumac postaje producent, a onda i reditelj. Film je tako skladna celina da, gledano sa strane, nema nijedne rediteljske greške. Kako ste učili režiju? - moj put ka režiji dolazio je iz prakse. Kao glumac, učestvujući na snimanjima filmova, serija – učio sam i režiju. Veoma važan deo je i moje bavljenje produkcijom. tada sam napravio taj presudni korak iza kamere i učestvovao u nečemu što se zove nastanak filma, praćenje jednog projekta od ideje do bioskopskog života. ta dva moja života, onaj ispred i onaj iza kamere – to su i moja uporišta za režiju. Očekivana prednost glumca – reditelja je rad sa glumcima. Čini se da ste postigli maksimum u radu sa mladim glumcima i, uslovno rečeno, u upotrebi starijih, iskusnih kolega? - pretpostavljao sam da u tom delu režije neće biti problema, da ću se tu najbolje snaći. i to i jeste bilo divno iskustvo. rad s mladim glumcima, neki od njih su prvi put kročili pred kameru, zahtevao je malo više koncentracije, pažnje. Zanimljivo je i to što sada često čujem da su moje iskusne kolege napravile svoje najbolje uloge baš u ovom filmu. Što me, naravno, raduje. Jeste li zacrtali putanju filma, festivale, premijere… - upravo sada radimo na tome. Za nekoliko dana imaćemo prvo zatvoreno

Director’s instructions prikazivanje za menadžere svetskih filmskih festivala, za distributere na Festivalu u Berlinu. Film je preveden, pokušavamo da mu prokrčimo put ka internacionalnoj publici. to nije lak zadatak. mislim da to više nije ni pitanje kvaliteta filma, već pre izgubljene navike većeg dela sveta da gleda filmove koji dolaze iz, uslovno rečeno, malih kinematografija, a posebno ovu vrstu filma, koji godinama nije došao iz Srbije. pitanje je kako će sada ti ljudi prihvatiti ovu vrstu energije, emocije… Da li je film „izgubio u prevodu“? - to se uvek dogodi u određenom procentu. trudili smo se da prevod Montevidea ne bude bukvalan, već pre prepev. tako, mislim da nije izgubio mnogo. Film je i dobro odmerena količina ispričane priče sa nagoveštajem mogućeg nastavka. Sudeći po reakciji publike, bilo bi lepo da ga bude? - priču ćemo svakako nastaviti da pričamo. u seriji svakako, a da li će od toga nastati film, to još ne mogu da kažem. Vaše su reči: „Uvek sam bio romantični nacionalista.“ Kako biste nam predstavili svoj romantični nacionalizam? Da li je to deo odrastanja, vaspitanja, iskustva? - ne znam tačno kada se taj osećaj formirao u meni. Kao mlad čitao sam intenzivno Dobricu ćosića, crnjanskog, andrića, Slobodana Selenića, koji su mogli da probude u meni taj romantični nacionalizam, kao reakciju na njihova dela. Čini mi se da su u tom smislu ipak presudne devedesete godine prošlog veka. Kada smo krenuli strmoglavo nizbrdicom, ja sam prilično putovao po svetu prateći svoje filmove, počevši od Crnog bombardera, onda su krenula i Lepa sela, lepo gore, Rana – i tada sam sa velikom tugom posmatrao te neke druge zemlje kako idu napred, a mi nikako nismo umeli da se organizujemo. imao sam tridesetak godina, i znam da sam osećao jaku potrebu da pomognem svom narodu da siđe sa te nizbrdice. Verujući duboko da ti drugi narodi nisu ništa bolji od nas, pametniji, obrazovaniji. mi kao da nikako nismo imali sreće da živimo normalno. Sećam se da sam stalno ponavljao: „Daj što pre da se završi ovaj rat, da se skinu sankcije, da prestane ova nesreća, pa da moja generacija i neki još mlađi ljudi dobiju šansu da naprave nešto dobro od ove naše Srbije.“ te rane koje sam nosio u sebi suočavajući se sa nesrećom koja

se javlja periodično u našem narodu, rađale su taj romantični nacionalizam koji pominjete. jer da je nastavila da živi jugoslavija, da se nesreća nije tako duboko utemeljila, verovatno se u meni, a i u mnogim drugim ljudima, ne bi uspostavilo takvo osećanje. ovako, ono je jednostavno emotivni i saznajni odgovor na vreme koje smo živeli i koje živimo i na sudbinu moga naroda. ljudi su i tih devedesetih različito reagovali, neki su dizali ruke od Srbije, govorili da će ona uvek biti smetlište na rubu civilizacije. ja sam verovao da to nije istina, i da je potrebno da svi mi poradimo na tome da se to ne desi, a ne da jednostavno odustanemo. nažalost, taj dualizam i danas postoji. ti ljudi koji su digli ruke i otišli iz Srbije, s njima je lako, oni su stvarno otišli, ali je mnogo veći problem s ljudima koji ovde žive i rade, ali rade samo za sebe, što znači da su digli ruke od Srbije. Srbiju koriste jedino kao poligon za lično bogaćenje, da bi njihova deca otišla iz Srbije. mislim da je to naš najveći problem danas. „Mislim da je sada za srpsku kinematografiju važnije da odigra dobru utakmicu na domaćem terenu nego u gostima“ – rekli ste takođe. Misija Montevidea je i tu negde vidljiva, ljudi se vraćaju bioskopima. - taj citat je iz vremena kada smo počinjali da radimo montevideo, drago mi je što ste ga pronašli, jer sada mogu da kažem da smo u tome i uspeli. optimista sam po prirodi, uvek krećem s tom pozitivnom energijom, ali je ovako veliki uspeh filma na „domaćem terenu“ i za mene pomalo neočekivan. Videćemo da li ovu utakmicu sa istim efektima možemo odigrati i u inostranstvu. Prolog filma Montevideo dečak Stanoje u jednom trenutku kaže: „Nije važno kako se rodiš, već kakav ti je život.“ Kakav je Vaš život? - Već neko vreme sam svestan da postoje različiti periodi u čovekovom životu. jedna od mudrosti iz umeća življenja kaže i da svako vreme ima svoje breme, ali i svoje prednosti. u ovom dobu svoga života pokušavam da ispravim neke greške. ako sam nekad ranije, jureći za svim onim za čim se juri sa trideset, zaboravio da budem prijatelj, ili, kako to kaže dečak Stanoje, zaboravio da sanjam, da volim život – sada se trudim da sve to nadoknadim. ta moja spoznaja utkana je i u početak i kraj filma Montevideo: „Život je kada imaš san, a ako san postane stvarnost, onda ni smrt nije kraj života.“ a samo pre desetak godina ja na taj način nikako ne bih počeo niti završio film. DraGana marKOViĆ

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Kompanija Israel Diamond Center, vodeći svetski proizvođač nakita iz Izraela, osnovala je 1990. godine kompaniju Maestro Jewelers sa prodajnim mestima u Beogradu i Moskvi. Maestro Jewelers je u Srbiji ekskluzivni distributer najpoznatijih svetskih proizvođača satova, nakita i pribora za pisanje. Posetite nas u juvelirnici u hotelu Kontinental! Israel Diamond Center, leading Israel-based global jewellery manufacturer founded the Maestro Jewellers company je in 1990, with points of sale in Belgrade and Moscow. Maestro Jewellers in Serbia is exclusive distributor for the most reputable world manufacturers of watches, jewellery and luxurious stationary. Visit us at our jewellery shop at Hotel Continental! Maestro Jewelers, Hotel Continetal, Beograd, Vladimira Popovića 10 Tel/fax (381 11) 311 14 59, 311 33 33/ext.721 maestro@eunet.rs www.maestro.rs ww

DIJAMANTI SU NAJSIGURNIJA INVESTICIJA DA LI ZNATE DA REČ DIJAMANT POTIČE OD GRČKE REČI ADAMAS KOJA ZNAČI BITI NEUNIŠTIV, NEPOBEDIV? Globalna kriza povećala je ulaganja jedino i isključivo u dijamante i plemenite metale, a cena dijamanata u poslednjih sto godina nijednom nije doživela pad! Povrh toga, dijamanti su lako prenosiva i planetrano konvertibilna valuta. Ako se odlučite da investirate u najsigurniju monetu na svetu, važno je da znate nekoliko osnovnih pravila in kupovine: Upoznajte se sa međunarodnom klasifikacijom kvaliteta 4C – Boja (Colour), Čistoća (Clarity), Obrada (Cut) i Težina (Carat). Dodajete i peto C – Confidence (Poverenje). Važno je da znate od koga kupujete dijamante! Dajemo Vam dobre razloge da kao proverenog partnera. odaberete IDC: Više od pola veka poznati smo kao ekskluzivni dobavljač dragulja i proizvođač vrhunskog dijamantskog nakita. Naši dijamanti su jeﬅiniji zato što ih kupujemo iz prve ruke. Uz naš validan sertifikat, Vaše dragocenosti, isporučujemo tamo gde Vi želite. Naše ime u svetu je vaša pouzdana garanacija za svaki dragulj i komad nakita s pečatom IDC.

DIAMONDS ARE THE SAFEST INVESTMENT DID YOU KNOW THAT THE WORD DIAMOND COMES FROM THE GREEK WORD ADAMAS, MEANING INDESTRUCTIBLE, INVINCIBLE? During the global crisis, only investments in diamonds and precious metals increased, while the price of diamonds in has not experienced a fall in the past hundred years! As such, diamonds are an extremely portable and internationally convertible currency. If you opt to invest in the world’s most secure currency, it is important that you know some basic rules of purchase: Get to know the international classification of quality 4C: Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat. Also add a fiﬅh C – Confidence. It is important to know who you are buying diamonds from! We are offering you good reasons to choose IDC as your trusted and reliable partner: For more than half a century we have been known as an exclusive supplier of jewels and a manufacturer of top quality diamond jewellery. Our Diamonds are cheaper because we buy them first hand. Accompanied by our valid certificate, we can deliver your valuables to whichever destination you choose. Our name in the world is your assured guarantee for every jewel and item of jewellery with the stamp of IDC.

L i T E R a R Y

g U i d E

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

T H R O U g H A

B E L g R a d E P

Ä&#x2021;

DEVELOPMENT PATH OF A RARE TALENT Born into a bourgeois family, his entire life was led according to communist convictions: he studied life and knew many crafts, but also acknowledged that, to him, life was the only craft; not straying from his convictions was a greater personal concern than his obligation to be a good writer

Aleksandar Popovic with his brother and parents, 1938

n october 2010 the vuk Cultural institution on Belgrade’s kralja Aleksandra Boulevard bestowed the name Aleksandar Popović on its main auditorium. A bas-relief of the writer, depicted with the obligatory cigarette in hand, was placed in the lobby and illuminated as though a stage scene. This was once the home of the famous ‘kult teatra’ stage, where his last work was set. one of those evenings, when theatre Atelje 212 again premiered ‘ljubinka and desanka’, they say he would usually drop by to bring the actors gifts of umbrellas with a dedication, before later going on to kult Theatre to watch a rerun of Baš bunara. He died the next day, 9th october 1996, in his 67th year. some of his theatre friends expressed bitterness that one of the greatest serbian writers had been allowed to die in poverty, but Popović had really left a huge fortune

behind. This wealth is not only that reflected in the thousands of pages that have become radio plays, television series, dramas, theatre plays and books. He wrote so much that one caricaturist drew him with six hands. The real fortune he left behind are his four daughters, who inherited the talents of their parents: Milica, a painter; sofia, a musician and archaeologist; Tanja, a choreographer and dancer; and Persida, a pianist and music teacher. “in life there are only children,” he said in his final days, “...everything else is nothing.” it was during that period that he was asked by interviewing journalists if he regretted anything for any reason or if he would change anything in his life. He responded: “i have no regrets about anything and nor would i change anything, except that – you know i have four daughters – i would probably have another four daughters.”

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

L i T E R a R Y

g U i d E

T H R O U g H

B E L g R a d E

Working with young actors iT iS REd Just before the end of his life, more excited than he’d been for any novel, he said: “i have lived both with fault and goodness, but it has been very exciting ... As a man gets nearer to the end he is, it is said, more cautious, but i would once again venture into uncertainty...” At 17 years old, in the same year World War ii ended, he was married without having graduated school. When he chose marriage instead of a future university education, his father threw him out into the street. He believed that he would be able to support himself and his wife through writing and only later realised how difficult that would be. still, he never changed his mind or repented. After finally graduating from school he headed to the danube and worked on the docks as a stevedore. He launched the literary journal Crveno jeste (it is red) and soon after his first daughter was born. it seemed that 1948 would be a happy year for the Popović family. That year his wife got a job in a ballet troupe at the national Theatre in rijeka and he wrote his first novel. Yet that year would be remembered for the event that was to separate the family for a long time. Aleksandar had been waiting for his wife after a show when he was arrested in front of the theatre building, accused of being a member of the soviet information Bureau and of even wanting to blow up radio Belgrade. He spent almost five years at the infamous forced labour camp on Goli otok island, including as long as five months in solitary confinement and interrogation, but his position did not change. And he was proud of that. He never spoke about his time in the camp with his family, but his memories of those times appeared from time to time in his writings. Thus one of the characters in Stage Characteristics in Four Items, in the drama The Development Path of Bora Šnajder, said: “But still nothing is worse than hunger, comrade Bora... and when your tubes knot, a man would sell his own mother, let alone an idea...” He would deal with the theme of the soviet information Bureau several decades later in the piece Spawning of Carp.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

THERE WHERE WE’VE NEVER BEEN BEFORE Aleksandar’s wife was the sister of his high school friend koleto. in the modest single storey home of their parents, at 16 st. sava street, Aca and danče lived immediately after getting married. it was there that the family was reunited after Aca’s return from the forced labour camp. They lived with danče’s mother ljubica, Buba, aunt stanislava, Cuca, and Grandmother sofia. That urban, but also liberal, intellectual atmosphere was often highlighted by Aca, significantly influencing his development and writing. When he got out of prison he was socially dead, but he did not give up. He worked as a painter & decorator, road layer, construction worker; he even passed the state exam to become a handy-

man. And he returned to writing. With that, he said, he generally started to deal with his “great curiosity and great desire to move things forward, even if just an inch, to get to somewhere where he’d never been before.” during those few most difficult years he sat and wrote for himself. He thought, wrote and stored his works in a cardboard suitcase in his safe. He launched a private newspaper called Zapisi (records) and was his own editor, with an editorial office located at 16 st. sava street. The newspaper didn’t survive for very long, with only a few issues published, but the pseudonym Žak Žaks (Jacque Jacques) lived on. He signed a published poem with the name of the father of his prewar friend Jevrejka, who had died along with her family in a camp. Žak Žaks then moved to the radio waves, because Ale, as his friends called him, was fortunate that the Children’s editorial of radio Belgrade recommended and guaranteed dušan radović for him. To radović he was one of the most talented people he had met. However, he was not only gifted, but also tireless; a workaholic. The radio broadcast his many contributions, among others, exercise shows, humorous aerobics to the instructions of Professor Fusakle. And when writing for children he strove to be clear and honest. He later claimed that there was no such thing as purely children’s literature, because that which is good is understandable for both children and adults, there are only good writers and weak writers. NOT BLaCK NOR WHiTE sixteen years after he’d first decided that he could support himself and his family through writing, he officially became a writer when he became a member of the Association of Writers in 1961. When he moved to television, radovic lured Aca too. He initially wrote scripts for the children’s series on the letter, on the letter and went on to author scripts for hundreds of episodes of some programmes that are still remembered today, such as love, oh love, neither black nor white, All my life for a year, Tv Primer, The Birth of the working nation and The rise and Fall of Zika Proja. Thus ACA conquered another medium. All that was left was the medium he’d cultivated a special love for since childhood: the theatre. His theatre life debuted with the staging of A farce in two acts, ljubinko and desanka in the new building of theatre Atelja 212. When he first appeared many critics did not understand him. even Bojan stupica read one of his plays and asked dusko radovic, who had given the script to him, is this man crazy? it was only much later that he was hailed as “the most interesting, most charming, most original figure of our contemporary theatre”. He did not part company with the theatre for the next 32 years. That theatrical life included successes and failures, bitterness and pleasures, bannings and the forced removal of plays from repertoires, but also awards like the 1994 award of the jury of theatre critics proclaiming his Path of development of Bora Šnajder as the country’s best post-war drama. He authored over forty plays, seven of which were banned. it is said that his plays represented “a watershed moment in the theatrical life of the city” and that they were linked to the start of “the spreading of our avant-garde theatre to the world”. He visited the U.s. several times and tried to establish a slavic theatre in new York, he also directed for the first time for ellen stewart’s famous theatre troupe la MaMa – actually directing a play that had been removed from Atelje 212’s repertoire: second door on the left. a BUCKET FOR MOViNg a SEa He claimed that writing was a matter of technique and that no job could be done without a gift – not even planing wood or laying parquet; that no job was done with the hands but rather with the mind. He said that work filled

With wife Danica and daughters Tatjana, Sofija and Milica, 1967 one up as opposed to draining energy, that work was a vital need, that his life was work and that he would not know what to do if he wasn’t working. He was fascinated by how much had to be done and felt as though he had to use a bucket to move the sea. However, a few years before the end of his life, after all that happened in Yugoslavia and serbia, he said with bitterness “surely i will depart thus, with a bitter taste. i cannot even smile anymore. it caught up with me; it all caught up with me! i don’t even have any delusions. And i had a misconception. We were taught that we would create to save ourselves. if i didn’t attack that like a pig in a bag, i don’t know who did! And now i’m even thinking that this was also a misconception. i did manage to uproot much.” He had successfully fought all the adversity life had brought him, but he failed to defeat cancer. Above the bas-reliefs in the lobby of the vuk Cultural institution, in front of the main Aleksandar Popovic auditorium, something he once said is written: “i shall not write that which i do not think”. And he left this world having never violated that oath. He consistently argued that it was a mortal sin to write something that you did not believe. And of all the awards he won – and he won many – his greatest satisfaction was seeing all of his oncebanned plays performed during his lifetime. JOVO anĐiĆ

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

K N J i ž E V N i

V O d i č

K R O z

B E O g R a d

RAZVOJNI PUT MAJSTORA Rođen u buržoaskoj porodici, čitavog života je po ubeđenju bio komunista, studirao je život i znao više zanata, ali je priznavao da mu je život jedini zanat, od obaveze da bude dobar pisac veća mu je bila briga da ne odstupi od svojih uverenja.

stanova kulture Vuk u Bulevaru kralja Aleksandra u oktobru 2010. godine svojoj velikoj sceni dala je ime Aleksandar Popović. U holu, osvetljen svetlima kao na pozornici, postavljen je bareljef pisca predstavljenog sa obaveznom cigaretom u ruci. Tu je nekada bila čuvena scena Kult teatra na kojoj se davalo njegovo poslednje postavljeno delo. one večeri kada je u Ateljeu 212 bila ponovna premijera „ljubinka i desanke“, svratio je, kažu, najpre tamo da donese glumcima na poklon kišobrane sa posvetom. otišao je potom u Kult teatar da pogleda reprizu „Baš bunara“. Umro je sutradan, 9. oktobra 1996, u svojoj 67. godini. neki njegovi pozorišni prijatelji govorili su sa ogorčenjem da je jedan od najvećih srpskih pisaca umro u siromaštvu, ali zapravo je Aleksandar Popović iza sebe ostavio veliko bogatstvo. i to ne samo ono koje se ogledalo u hiljadama iskucanih strana koje su postale radijske igre, televizijske serije, drame, pozorišne predstave, knjige... napisao je toliko da ga je jedan karikaturista nacrtao sa šest ruku. Pravo bogatstvo koje je ostavio iza sebe su četiri njegove ćerke koje su ponele talente svojih roditelja: Milica, slikar, sofija, muzičar i arheolog, Tanja, koreograf i balerina, i Persida, pijanista i profesor muzike. „U životu samo deca postoje“, govorio je poslednjih dana „... sve drugo je ništa.“ Tih dana pitali su ga novinari u jednom intervjuu da li se kaje zbog nečega i da li bi nešto menjao u svom životu. odgovorio im je: „ne kajem se ni za šta i ne bih ništa menjao, osim što bih, znate ja imam četiri ćerke, imao verovatno još četiri ćerke.“ CRVENO JESTE Pred kraj života, uzbudljivijeg od bilo kojeg romana, pričao je: „Živeo sam i rđavo i lepo, ali bilo je mnogo uzbudljivo... Što čovek ide bliže kraju, on je, kažu, oprezniji, ali ja bih još jednom pošao u neizvesnost...“ iste godine kada se završio drugi svetski rat, u 17. godini oženio se a da nije ni završio veliku maturu. kada je umesto budućeg školovanja na Univerzitetu izabrao ženidbu, otac ga je izbacio na ulicu. Mislio je da će ženu i sebe moći da izdržava pisanjem. shvatio je kasnije koliko je to teško, ali se nije predomislio ili pokajao. kada je maturirao, otišao je na dunav i radio kao obalski radnik. Pokrenuo je literarni časopis „Crveno jeste“, a ubrzo se rodila i prva ćerka. izgledalo je da će 1948. godina biti srećna za porodicu Popović. Te je godine u rijeci njegova žena dobila posao u baletskom ansamblu narodnog kazališta, a on napisao prvi roman. ipak će tu godinu upamtiti po događaju koji će na duže vreme razdvojiti porodicu. Acu su, dok je čekao ženu posle predstave, ispred zgrade kazališta uhapsili sa optužbom da je informbirovac i da je čak hteo da digne u

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

prilozi, između ostalih i vežbe, smešne fiskulture, po instrukcijama profesora Fusakle. i kada je pisao za decu trudio se da bude razumljiv i iskren. kasnije je tvrdio da ne postoji samo dečija književnost, jer ono što je dobro razumljivo je i deci i odraslima. Postoje samo dobri i slabi pisci.

Childhood with mother and father vazduh radio Beograd. skoro pet godina proveo je u radnom logoru na Golom otoku, čak pet meseci u samici, na ispitivanju, ali stav nije promenio. i bio je na to ponosan. o svom boravku u logoru nije govorio u krugu porodice, ali su se sećanja na ta vremena pojavila ponekad i ponegde u njegovim tekstovima. Tako će jedan od likova u „scenskoj karakteristici u četiri stavke“, drami „razvojni put Bore Šnajdera“ reći: „Al’ ipak ništa gore od gladi, druže Boro… pa kad zakrče creva, prodao bi čovek i rođenu majku, a kamoli ideju…“ Temom informbiroa baviće se nekoliko decenija kasnije u komadu „Mrešćenje šarana“. TaMO gdE dO Sada NiSMO BiLi Acina žena bila je sestra njegovog druga iz gimnazije koleta. U skromnoj jednospratnoj kući njihovih roditelja, u Ulici svetog save 16, živeli su Aca i danče odmah pošto su se venčali. Tu se porodica ponovo okupila posle njegovog povratka iz logora. Živeli su sa daničinom majkom ljubicom – Bubom, tetkom stanislavom – Cucom i bakom sofijom. Ta građanska, ali liberalnija intelektualne atmosfera, često je isticao Aca, znatno je uticala na njegov razvoj i pisanje. kada je izašao iz zatvora, bio je građanski mrtav, ali se nije predavao. radio je kao moler, asfalter, na građevini, čak položio državni ispit i postao majstor. i vratio se pisanju. njime se, govorio je, i inače počeo baviti „iz velike radoznalosti i velike želje da se stvar pomeri makar i za jedan santimetar napred, da se dođe negde gde se do tada nije bilo“. Tih nekoliko najtežih godina sedeo je i pisao za sebe. Mislio, pisao i smeštao tekstove u kartonske kofere, u svoju riznicu. Pokrenuo je privatne novine „Zapisi“, u kojima je bio urednik, a sedište redakcije se nalazilo tamo gde je i stanovao. list nije bio dugog veka, izašlo je samo nekoliko brojeva, ali je preživeo pseudonim Žak Žaks. imenom oca svoje predratne drugarice Jevrejke, koja je sa porodicom stradala u logoru, potpisivao je objavljene pesme. Žak Žaks se potom preselio na radijske talase, jer je Ale, kako su ga prijatelji zvali, imao sreću da ga dečijoj redakciji radio Beograda preporuči i da za njega garantuje dušan radović. Za radovića on je bio jedan od najdarovitijih ljudi koje je upoznao. Ali on nije bio samo darovit već i neumoran. radio je mnogo. na radiju su emitovani njegovi mnogobrojni

Ni CRNO, Ni BELO Šesnaest godina pošto je odlučio da pisanjem izdržava sebe i porodicu, i zvanično je postao književnik. Godine 1961. postao je član Udruženja književnika. kada je prešao na televiziju, radović je privukao i Acu. Pisao je najpre tekstove za dečiju seriju „na slovo, na slovo“, a kasnije scenarije za više stotina epizoda serija, od kojih se neke pamte i danas: „ljubav, ah ljubav“, „ni crno ni belo“, „Ceo život za godinu dana“, „Tv bukvar“, „rađanje radnog naroda“, „Uspon i pad Žike Proje“. Tako je Aca osvojio još jedan medij. Preostao je onaj prema kojem je gajio posebnu ljubav još od detinjstva – pozorište. njegov pozorišni život započeo je postavljanjem „farse u dva dela“, „ljubinko i desanka“, u novoj zgradi Ateljea 212. kada se pojavio, mnogi kritičari ga nisu razumeli. Čak je Bojan stupica, kada je pročitao jedan njegov dramski tekst, pitao duška radovića, koji mu je tekst dao, da li je ovaj čovek lud. Tek mnogo kasnije ocenjen je kao „najzanimljivija, najšarmantnija, najoriginalnija figura našeg savremenog teatra“. od pozorišta se nije razdvajao naredne 32 godine. Bilo je u tom pozorišnom životu i uspeha i neuspeha, gorčine i zadovoljstva, i zabranjenih i sa repertoara skinutih predstava, ali i nagrada i priznanja poput onog koje mu je 1994. godine dodelio žiri pozorišnih kritičara, proglasivši njegov tekst „razvojni put Bore Šnajdera“ za našu najbolju posleratnu dramu. napisao je više od četrdeset drama, sedam od njih je zabranjivano. njegove su predstave, govorilo se, bile „prelomni trenutak u pozorišnom životu grada“, a takođe se vezuju za početke „izlaska naše teatarske avangarde u svet“. U Americi je bio više puta. U njujorku je probao da osnuje slovensko pozorište, a za poznatu pozorišnu trupu elen stjuart „la mama“ prvi put je režirao i to komad koji je skinut sa repertoara Ateljea 212 – „druga vrata levo“. KOFa KOJOM SE PREMEŠTa MORE Tvrdio je da je pisanje stvar tehnike i da se nijedan posao ne može raditi bez dara, pa čak ni hoblovanje parketa, da se nijedan posao ne radi rukama nego glavom. Govorio je da se radeći puni a ne prazni, da je rad životna potreba, da je njegov život rad, i da ne bi znao šta bi radio kad ne bi radio. oduševljavao se količinom posla, osećao se kao čovek koji kofom treba da premesti more. Ali je nekoliko godina pre kraja života, posle svega što se dešavalo u Jugoslaviji i srbiji, sa gorčinom rekao: „Zbilja ću otići, onako, sa gorkim jednim ukusom. ne umem više ni da se osmehnem. sustiglo me, sve me sustiglo! nemam više ni zabluda. A imao sam zabluda. nas su učili da ćemo stvaranjem da se spasemo. Ako ja nisam na to navalio ko svinja na torbu, ne znam ko je! A sad već pomišljam da je i to zabluda bila. nisam se baš mnogo iščupao.“ Uspešno se izborio sa svim nedaćama koje mu je život donosio, ali nije uspeo da savlada kancer. iznad bareljefa u holu Ustanove kulture Vuk, ispred velike scene Aleksandar Popović ispisano je ono što je jednom prilikom rekao: „neću pisati ono što ne mislim.“ i otišao je a da nikada nije pogazio taj zavet. dosledno je zastupao stav da je pisati ono što ne misliš smrtni greh. A od svih nagrada koje je dobio, a dobio ih je mnogo, veća satisfakcija bila mu je da su svi njegovi nekada zabranjeni komadi igrani za njegovog života. JOVO anĐiĆ

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

INFO: HOME OF THE PAVLOVIĆ FAMILY Gospodar Jevremova 39 www.domporodicepavlovic.org.rs

OLD BELGR ADE FAMIL IE S | C ULT UR A L CE N T R E – HOM E OF T HE PAV LOV IĆ FAM I LY

HOUSE OF WONDERFUL SOULS

he importance of certain Belgrade family homes from the late 19th century – a period when Ottoman rulers finally left the Balkans, the state was still in its development phase, there was no university, scientific, cultural or educational institutions in the country and at the same time the country was trying to approach Europe in the most truthful way – is the fact that these houses were the first step towards serious organisation of the state. The first generation of Serbian people to be educated abroad at the expense of the state and who returned home upon

WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11 BelGuest

As we study history we learn about important events, decisive battles, the decisions of kings and military leaders and the details of political turmoil, but seldom do we learn about life at those times; the origins of the people involved and events detailed, emerging on the surface of knowledge. The houses of old Belgrade families retell that part: decisive, forgotten and often never recorded history. completion of their studies came from those very houses. Almost all of them had scholarships of the Principality of Serbia and paid back the confidence and effort invested in them by their motherland. In accordance with their professions, these houses became meeting points for lawyers, scientists, artists etc. The first academic societies were founded in those houses and the foundations of Lada, the first association of fine artists, were laid in the Pavlović house. Following the same logics, choirs, orchestras, bands and other organisations were established in other houses. The houses themselves

became centres of various intellectual spheres that were essentially the forerunners of the future scientific and cultural institutions of Serbia. Here one can hear, loudly and with determined clarity, about a liberated Serbia, with the first international contacts also established there. STRONGHOLDS OF MODERN SERBIA It was to these houses that the first foreigners came. They first came after being enchanted by good students who had left their mark in Budapest, Prague, Paris, Zurich, Vienna etc. They

were intrigued to see what country these wonderful students came from; what kind of new, young Serbia that was – their professors and colleagues followed them to Serbia and into the houses those students had come from. Apart from travel writers, the first foreign guests to the young Serbian state were most often professors of our scholarship holders. Their impressions and experiences shaped the prevailingly positive opinion about the country as interesting, diverse, and different, being shaped after the European model, though with particular self-awareness. NEW INSPIRATIONS Today the Cultural Centre Home of the Pavlović Family, situated within the cultural monument of the city of Belgrade from 1882, is located within the family house and garden at 39 Gospodar Jevremova Street – meticulously and according to plan, it introduces the domestic public and foreign visitors to Belgrade to the history and significance of this monumental centre. Encouraged by the pride-filled traces of civic and European Serbia that were established here long ago, primarily protecting ambient heritage, the Pavlovićs endeavoured to introduce new cultural content in a modern way, through word, movement, sound and colour, and to offer inspiration to visitors. The permanent family exhibition of artefacts, ethnographic items and important historical acts found their place in the unusual basement environment; preserving the unbroken story of six generations of this Dorćol family of lawyers, diplomats, translators, artists, conservators, historians, donors... Book promotions and poetry evenings, themed exhibitions and documentary screenings, chamber music concerts and theatrical performances, lectures, children’s creative and educational workshops, student art programmes, auctions, presentations, debates and discussions... such events were often on offer at the house of the Pavlović family, enriching and supplementing the cultural life of Belgrade – with the same energy that remains in this house and its souls since their creation. INTELLECTUAL BACKBONE OF BELGRADE The founders of the Belgrade home of the Pavlovićs are Anka and Kosta Pavlović. Kosta was a district chief and the first mayor of the liberated city of Niš in 1878, president of the Belgrade Committee of the Liberal Party of Jovan Ristic, an excellent orator and one of the founders of the Belgrade Co-operative. His wife Anka was the founder and first president of the Women’s Society in Niš, the forerunner of the Serbian Sisters Circle. Son Stevan, a lawyer and diplomat, was

the Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs, holder of the Star of the Legion of Honour, Governor of the 77th District of Rotary International, President of the Association of Friends of France, a translator, theatre and music critic, violinist and poet. Grandson Kosta was a diplomat, Chief of Cabinet of Prime Minister Dusan Simovic and Slobodan Jovanovic; a writer, historian, Head of the Slavic Library of Cambridge University, vice president of the Western European Diocese, president of the church community in London and president of the Association of Serbian Writers and Artists Abroad. Granddaughter Leposava, a.k.a. Bela, was a painter, a senior associate and lecturer at the Belgrade University and Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU), a professor of French, translator from Romanian, philanthropist, reformer and honorary president of Lada. Grandson Dobroslav a.k.a. Bojko, was a profes-

sor, doctor of architecture, conservationist, one of the founders of conservation in the country, ICOMOS - International Council on Monuments and Sites within UNESCO in Paris and the International Institute for National Building in the Balkans in Veria, as well as being a holder of the medal of Saint Sava of the first order, a violinist and member of the Obilić Choir. Great-grandson Stevan was a Balkan historian and professor at the University of Southampton. Đorđe Pavlović, great-grandson, was an architect and staunch follower of the family tradition. According to our source: - The residents of Jevremova Street, one must admit, are a little bit privileged. Jevremova Street is considered the intellectual backbone of Belgrade, in contrast to Knez Mihailova Street, which has always been the administrative, commercial and tourism centre. On Jevremova Street Prince Mihailo, Jevrem Obrenović, Dositej Obradović, Vuk Karadžić, Stevan Mokranjac and Djura Jakšić lived and worked, while this seemingly inexhaustible list also includes Ljuba Kovačević and General Jovan Mišković, academic and president of the Serbian Royal Academy. It is our immediate neighbourhood. Observing the family’s unwritten will, the Home of the Pavlović Family was set up as a culture centre aimed at cherishing the memory of these personalities of Serbia’s history, science and culture, as well as presenting their work in a modern and appropriate manner. Accordingly, we came up with the idea for the event Jevremova Street – Street of Encounters. The house is open to visitors year-round with its Culture Centre programmes, when youngsters in particular are provided with a much-needed messages of optimism. The garden of the Pavlović family is marked as a specific horticultural unit and is protected by the Republic Institute for Nature Protection. Unusual silence, as a precious oasis of fresh air along the densely populated banks of the Danube, is often host to many rare birds, as well as the cats of Dorćol. Due to its extremely fine details, it is a true challenge to stage various performances at the Cultural Centre. The house is the headquarters of Interkultura, an association operating under the umbrella of the global AFS organisation and conducting intercultural exchange programmes for high school pupils. In line with the bequeathing of the house, new generations of Pavlovićs are trying to bring the world closer to the youth of Serbia and present the beauty of diversity, which is always ennobling, to those young people who come from abroad. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ

BelGuest WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11

STARE BEOGRADSKE PORODICE | KULTURNI CENTAR – DOM PORODICE PAVLOVIĆ

KUĆA DIVNIH DUŠA Učeći istoriju upoznajemo se sa značajnim događajima, presudnim bitkama, odlukama kraljeva i vojskovođa, političkim previranjima, ali retko život vremena, ta potka iz koje i nastaju svi pomenuti ljudi i događaji, izbija na površinu znanja. Kuće starih beogradskih porodica pripovedaju upravo taj deo – zaboravljene i često nikada napisane istorije.

načaj određenih beogradskih porodičnih kuća s kraja 19. veka, kada Turci konačno napuštaju Balkan, kada je država tek u povoju, kada nema univerzitet, naučne, kulturne i prosvetne institucije, a u isto vreme pokušava na iskren način da se približi Evropi, upravo je u tome što su te kuće predstavljale prvi stepenik ozbiljne organizovanosti države. Iz tih kuća potiče i prva generacija naših ljudi koji su se školovali u inostranstvu i posle završenih studija vraćali se u otadžbinu. Uglavnom svi sa stipendijama Kneževine Srbije, oni zemlji svojim znanjima vraćaju uloženo poverenje i trud. Shodno njihovim profesijama, kuće im postaju stecišta pravnika, naučnika, umetnika... U njima se

WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11 BelGuest

osnivaju prva učena društva. U kući Pavlovića postavljeni su temelji prvom udruženju likovnih umetnika – „Lada“. U drugim kućama istom logikom osnivani su horovi, orkestri, klape, bande... Kuće su postajale uporišta različitih intelektualnih oblasti i u suštini su bile preteče budućih naučnih i kulturnih institucija Srbije. Tu se jasno čula reč o oslobođenoj Srbiji, tu su uspostavljani i prvi međunarodni kontakti. UPORIŠTA MODERNE SRBIJE Upravo u te kuće dolaze i prvi stranci. Pre svega opčinjeni dobrim studentima, koji su u Budimpešti, Pragu, Parizu, Cirihu, Beču ostavili svoj trag. Zaintrigirani da saznaju kakva je zemlja iz koje

dolaze ti divni đaci, kakva je to nova, mlada Srbija, njihovi profesori, kolege za njima dolaze u Srbiju – upravo u kuće iz kojih oni potiču. Pored putopisaca, prvi stranci gosti mlade srpske države upravo su i najčešće profesori naših stipendista. Njihovi utisci i iskustva oblikuju i pozitivno mišljenje o zanimljivoj, raznorodnoj, drugačijoj zemlji, koja se vaspostavlja po ugledu na Evropu, a sa osobitom samospoznajom. NOVA NADAHNUĆA Danas Kulturni centar, Dom porodice Pavlović, u okviru spomenika kulture grada Beograda iz 1882. godine, porodične kuće sa baštom u Gospodar

Jevremovoj 39, planski i studiozno upoznaje javnost kako našu tako i strane goste Beograda sa istorijom i značajem te spomeničke celine. Podstaknuti ponosnim tragovima građanske i evropske Srbije, davno uspostavljanim i na ovom prostoru, prvenstveno štiteći ambijentalno nasleđe, Pavlovići pokušavaju da novim kulturnim sadržajima na ovovremeni način, rečju, pokretom, zvukom i bojom kod posetilaca izazovu nova nadahnuća. Stalna postavka dela porodične zbirke umetničkih i etnografskih predmeta i značajnih istorijskih akata tako je našla svoje mesto u neobičnom suterenskom ambijentu. Tu se čuva i neprekinuta priča o šest generacija jedne dorćolske familije pravnika, diplomata, prevodilaca, umetnika, konzervatora, istoričara, darodavaca... Promocije knjiga i pesničke večeri, tematske izložbe i dokumentarne projekcije, koncerti kamerne muzike i pozorišne predstave, predavanja, dečija kreativna i obrazovna radionica, studentski umetnički programi, aukcije, prezentacije, tribine i diskusije... česti su sadržaji Doma porodice Pavlović, koji oplemenjuju i upotpunjuju kulturni život Beograda onom istom energijom koja je sačuvana u kući i njenim dušama od nastanka. INTELEKTUALNA KIČMA BEOGRADA Rodonačelnici Doma Pavlovića su Anka i Kosta Pavlović. Kosta je bio okružni načelnik i prvi gradonačelnik oslobođenog Niša 1878, predsednik beogradskog odbora Liberalne stranke Jovana Ristića, odličan govornik, jedan od osnivača Beogradske zadruge, a njegova supruga Anka osnovala je Žensko društvo u Nišu, preteču Kola srpskih sestara, i bila njegov prvi predsednik. Sin Stevan, pravnik, diplomata, bio je pomoćnik ministra spoljnih poslova,

nosilac zvezde Legije časti, guverner 77. distrikta Rotary International, predsednik Društva prijatelja Francuske, prevodilac, pozorišni i muzički kritičar, violinista i pesnik. Unuk Kosta, diplomata, bio je šef kabineta predsednika vlada Dušana Simovića i Slobodana Jovanovića, književnik, istoričar, šef slavističke biblioteke Univerziteta u Kembridžu, potpredsednik Zapadnoevropske eparhije, predsednik crkvene opštine u Londonu, predsednik Udruženja srpskih pisaca i umetnika u inostranstvu. Unuka Leposava – Bela, akademski slikar, bila je viši stručni saradnik i lektor na Beogradskom univerzitetu i SANU, profesor francuskog jezika, prevodilac sa rumunskog, dobrotvor, obnovitelj i doživotni počasni predsednik „Lade“. Unuk Dobroslav – Bojko, profesor, doktor arhitekture, konzervator, bio je jedan od osnivača Društva konzervatora u zemlji, ICOMOS – Međunarodnog saveta za spomenike i spomeničke celine u okviru Uneska u Parizu i Međunarodnog instituta za narodno graditeljstvo na Balkanu u Veriji, nosilac ordena svetog Save I reda, violinista i član hora „Obilić“. Praunuk Stevan, istoričar Balkana, profesor je Univerziteta u Sautemptonu. Đorđe Pavlović, praunuk, arhitekta, uporni nastavljač porodične tradicije, naš sagovornik, kaže: „Jevremovci, stanovnici Jevremove ulice, mora se priznati, malo su i privilegovani. Jevremova ulica se smatrala intelektualnom kičmom Beograda, za razliku od Knez Mihailove, koja je uvek bila

administrativno-trgovački i turistički centar. U Jevremovoj su živeli i radili knez Mihailo, Jevrem Obrenović, Dositej Obradović, Vuk Karadžić, Stevan Mokranjac, Đura Jakšić, a tom neiscrpnom nizu pridružuju se Ljuba Kovačević i general Jovan Mišković, akademici i predsednici Srpske kraljevske akademije. To je naš neposredni komšiluk. Poštujući nepisani porodični amanet, sećanja na te nesporne ličnosti naše istorije, nauke i kulture, Dom porodice Pavlović, kao kulturni centar, nastoji da na savremen i primeren način neguje sećanje na te ličnosti i njihova dela, pa je tako i rođena manifestacija Jevremova – ulica susreta. “ Kuća je, po programima Kulturnog centra, tokom čitave godine otvorena za posetioce, kada se prvenstveno mladima pružaju toliko potrebne poruke optimizma. Bašta Doma porodice Pavlović, obeležena kao specifična hortikulturna celina, pod zaštitom je i Republičkog zavoda za zaštitu prirode. Neobično tiha, kao dragocena oaza čistog vazduha na gusto naseljenoj Dunavskoj padini, često je domaćin mnogim retkim pticama, ali i dorćolskim mačorima. Zbog izuzetno lepih detalja istinski je izazov različitim predstavama Kulturnog centra. U kući je i sedište Interkulture, udruženja koje pod okriljem svetske organizacije AFS, ostvaruje programe interkulturne razmene srednjoškolaca. Kako je to već u amanetu kuće, nove generacije Pavlovića nastoje da svet približe mladima Srbije i da omladini koja dolazi iz inostranstva predstave lepotu različitosti, koja uvek oplemenjuje. DRAGANA MARKOVIĆ

BelGuest WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11

MAP OF SHIPWRECKS OF THE BELGRADE AQUATORIUM

STROLLING ALONG THE SAVA AND DANUBE RIVERBEDS Belgrade is a city on two rivers - this is how the city has been described in the shortest and most accurate way for centuries, not only by those who live here, but also by those who visited the city at the confluence of the Sava and the Danube for military, conquest, trade, adventure, personal or any other reasons. With 21st century Belgrade endeavouring to get back “down to the rivers”, the Water and Archaeology Association recently published a map of shipwrecks of the Belgrade Aquatorium, prompted by a friend’s question: “What would it be like to walk along the riverbeds of the Danube and Sava rivers if their waters dried up?”

he Belgrade Aquatorium’s map of shipwrecks has revealed the secrets of Belgrade’s rivers, whose beds preserve the traces of many heavy years of nautical traffic on the Danube, the Sava and their Belgrade tributaries. The map includes wrecked ships that have been raised and those that still lie on the bottom. In addition to photos from the glory days, the map includes the ships’ ID: construction year, vessel type, date and cause of wreck. UNDERWATER CULTURAL HERITAGE - This map is the first product of our association within the project In search of a yawl, which is aimed at creating a national register of historic sunken vessels, as well as our long-term plan for Serbia to ratify the UNESCO Convention on the Protection of Underwater Cultural Heritage, explains underwater archaeologist Gordana Karović, speaking to BelGuest. President of the Water and Archaeology

WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11 BelGuest

Fatherland

Association, Gordana is also an advisor at the Museum of Science and Technology, where she is in charge of a river shipping industry collection. The map covers the period from the 15th to the 20th centuries. According to data from six centuries ago, several Turkish ships were sunk in an attack by the army of Sultan Murad II near Belgrade, while three Turkish galleys were sunk during the 1456 siege of Belgrade. Serbs fighting for the liberation of Belgrade in the First Serbian Uprising of 1806 sank a Turkish yawl carrying a hundred soldiers at the confluence of Mokri Lug stream. By the late 19th century mainly passenger ships and steam boats were sinking. SECRETS OF THE RIVER BOTTOM Most data from the period of the first and second world wars has been preserved. One can learn from the maps that the following ships sank during the mining of the River Sava railway

bridge in both world wars: Hungarian Alkotmanj on 29th July 1914 and screw steamer Tanasko Rajić on 12th April 1941. The crew of the Tanasko Rajić, who had only moved to this ship six days earlier after the sinking of the Deligrad steam tug (built 1869), moved the ship upstream from the confluence so that it would not fall into enemy hands. However, they all perished. The monitor ship Sava (built 1904) sank near the site of the Deligrad in April 1941. It was near the site of today’s Pančevo Bridge that the ship Volcano sank in 1918. Nine years later its submerged superstructure was hit by the ship Strossmayer, while a ship called Velebit disappeared at the same spot in 1944. The allied bombing of Belgrade in April 1944 turned the Bežanija winter port into a graveyard of ships: 30 vessels sank to the bed of the Sava, including the Katarina Harle, tugboats Kajmakčalan, Kraljević Marko and Bosna, as well as passenger ships Kraljica Marija (Queen Mary) and

Diver BELGRADE ARSENAL Since the Middle Ages, Belgrade has been known not only as a trading port, headquarters of river flotilla and site of fateful battles, but also as a shipyard. Under Ottoman rule Belgrade became a well-known 16th century military shipyard. At that time it could have been ranked alongside the world-renowned arsenal of Constantinople. According to Turkish sources, the Belgrade shipyard was founded by Mehmed Pasa Sokolović and had an annual production of 85 triremes – galleys with three rows of oars, which is equivalent to today’s destroyers. During the 17th and 18th centuries, yawls, vessels and copper alloy boats were built, while in the early 19th century nave-like marine vessels were constructed. The first complete marine vessel (a sailboat) in the renewed Serbian state was constructed by sea captain of Greek origin, Nikola Kefala, after the publication of Hatisherif in 1830. The Čukarica workshop produced drvarice boats and iron barges for more than a century. Cetinje. The latest date on the map is from 2010, when the motor cargo ship Sip, built in 1943, sank at the Sava Port. However, this is by no means the end of Belgrade’s underwater story. - Following the publication of the Map of shipwrecks, the Association started receiving new information on shipwrecked vessels. We now have seven more locations that are not on this map and should be explored. We have learned about the remains of two shipwrecks at the confluence of the Sava and the Danube: the steamer Zemun, which sank in 1929 when the ice broke into Čukarica’s winter berths and drvarice boats of unknown names and unknown time of wrecking in its immediate vicinity. During excavation works to deepen the canal near Veliko

Selo village, the remains of an unidentified ship were found, while there were two shipwrecks in the Aquatorium of Ritopek, explains Karović. Asked why river marine archaeology is such a little known discipline, Gordana explains: “everyone is trying to avoid the river, because it is fast and muddy and visibility is limited –never exceeding a single metre. - Our rivers are exceptionally fast and, making it particularly restrictive, we can only work there for a short period of time, because of hydrographical conditions that vary

Lighthouse on the Sava

from year to year. On the other hand, National Geography, Discovery and similar scientific programmes are based on the marine environment, which is much nicer and easier to work with. The Water and Archaeology Association was founded on Danube Day, 29th June, 2007. It currently has 12 members of differing professions and education. They are hoping that the Serbian public’s interest in historic ships could encourage the arrival of the Hungarian wartime military monitor ship Leitha, which sank 140 years ago. - The Hungarians reconstructed Leitha for this occasion and turned it into a museum ship. It should be in Vienna in April and the Hungarian town of Baya on 21st May for the staging of the central observation ceremony. We hope that Leitha will also come to Novi Sad and Belgrade, where it last sailed during World War I. This time it would be a peaceful, cultural mission that could prompt the local public to get involved in the protection of historic ships, as Serbia’s Novi Sad preserves one of only seven surviving monitor ships in the world. Slightly younger than Leitha, the Novi Sad monitor ship was built in 1905 and initially named Bodrog, before being renamed Sava. Today it is a vessel attached to the Tisa ferry, says Karović. JELENA TASIĆ

BelGuest WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11

M A PA P OTO P L J E N I H B R O D O VA B E O G R A D S KO G A K VATO R I J U M A

ŠETNJA KORITOM SAVE I DUNAVA

Kosovo, steam tug at the helm from 1915

apa potopljenih brodova beogradskog akvatorijuma odškrinula je tajne beogradskih reka, čija korita čuvaju tragove gustog brodskog saobraćaja na Dunavu, Savi i njihovim beogradskim pritokama. U Mapu su uneti brodovi koji su izvađeni i oni koji još leže na rečnom dnu. Pored njihovih fotografija iz slavnih dana, Mapa sadrži i brodske „lične karte“: godinu izgradnje, tip plovila, datum i uzrok potapanja. PODVODNA KULTURNA BAŠTINA - Ova mapa je prvi proizvod našeg udruženja u okviru projekta U potrazi za šajkom, čiji je cilj izrada nacionalnog registra potopljenih istorijskih plovnih objekata, kao našeg dugoročnog plana da Srbija ratifikuje Uneskovu konvenciju o zaštiti podvodne kulturne baštine – objašnjava za Belguest podvodni arheolog Gordana Karović, predsednik Udruženja „Voda i arheologija“, inače savetnik u Muzeju nauke

WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11 BelGuest

i tehnike, gde vodi Zbirku rečnog brodarstva. Mapa obuhvata razdoblje od 15. veka do prošle godine. Podaci od pre šest vekova govore da je u napadu vojske sultana Murata Drugog kod Beograda potopljeno nekoliko turskih brodova, a u opsadi 1456. tri turske galije. Srbi su u borbama za oslobođenje Beograda u Prvom srpskom ustanku 1806. na ušću Mokroluškog potoka potopili tursku šajku sa 100 vojnika. Pred kraj 19. veka tonuli su uglavnom putnički brodovi i parni tegljači. TAJNE REČNOG DNA Najviše podataka sačuvano je za vreme Prvog i Drugog svetskog rata. Iz Mape se saznaje i da su u miniranju železničkog savskog mosta u oba svetska rata potonuli i brodovi: mađarski „Alkotmanj“ 29. jula 1914. i „Tanasko Rajić“, parobrod na vijak, 12. aprila 1941. godine. Na „Tanasku Rajiću“ stradala je posada koja se na ovaj brod prebacila nakon što

je šest dana ranije potopila uzvodno od ušća Save u Dunav parni tegljač „Deligrad“ iz 1869. da ne bi pao u ruke neprijatelju. U blizini „Deligrada“, u aprilu 1941. potopljen je i monitor „Sava“ iz 1904. godine. Kod današnjeg Pančevačkog mosta 1918. potopljen je brod „Vulkan“, na čije je ostake devet godina kasnije naleteo brod „Štrosmajer“, a na istom mestu 1944. nestao je i „Velebit“. Savezničko bombardovanje u aprilu 1944. pretvorilo je Bežanijski zimovnik u groblje brodova – na savsko dno potonulo je 30 plovila, među kojima su bili „Katarina Harle“, tegljači „Kajmakčalan“, „Kraljević Marko“ i „Bosna“, te putnički brodovi „Kraljica Marija“ i „Cetinje“. Najsvežiji datum na Mapi je iz 2010, kada je u Savskom prostaništu potopljen motorni teretni brod „Sip“ iz 1943. godine. Ali, to nije kraj beogradske podvodne rečne priče. - Posle objavljivanja Mape potopljenih brodova,

Beograd je grad koji leži na dve reke. Ovako ga najkraće i najtačnije vekovima opisuju ne samo oni koji su u njemu živeli nego i svi koji su zbog vojnih, osvajačkih, trgovačkih, avanturističkih, ličnih ili bilo kojih drugih razloga posetili grad na ušću Save u Dunav. Dok se Beograd trudi da se u 21. veku ponovo „spusti na reke“, Udruženje „Voda i arheologija“, podstaknuto pitanjem jednog svog prijatelja: „Kako bi izgledala šetnja po koritu Dunava i Save kada bi njihove vode presušile“, nedavno je objavilo Mapu potopljenih brodova beogradskog akvatorijuma.

The ship Avala at the Sava Port Udruženje je počelo da dobija nove informacije o potopljenim plovilima. Sada imamo još sedam lokacija, koje nisu na ovoj karti i treba ih istražiti. Saznali smo za ostatke dva brodoloma na ušću Save u Dunav - parobroda Zemun koji je potonuo 1929, prilikom provale leda u Čukarički zimovnik i drvarice nepoznatog imena i vremena potonuća u njegovoj neposrednoj blizini. Prilikom produbljivanja kanala kod Velikog Sela pronađeni su ostaci za sada neidentifikovanog broda, a u akvatorijumu Ritopeka postoje dva brodoloma - priča Gordana Karović. Na pitanje zašto je rečna podvodna arheologija malo poznata disciplina, Gordana Karović odgovara da se „svi trude da izbegnu reku, jer je brza i mutna, vidljivost je ograničena - nikad nije veća od

Kicoš

jednog metra“: - Naše reke su izuzetno brze i, što je posebno ograničavajuće, u njima može da se radi samo kratko vreme u toku godine zbog hidrografskih uslova, koji variraju od godine do godine. S druge stane, Nacionalna geografija, Diskaveri i slični naučni programi baziraju se na morskom okruženju, koje je neuporedivo lepše i lakše za rad. Udruženje Voda i arheologija osnovano je na Dan Dunava 29. juna 2007. godine. Trenutno ima 12 članova različitih struka i obrazovanja. Nadaju se da bi interesovanje srpske javnosti za istorijske brodove moglo da podstakne dolazak u Beograd mađarskog ratnog vojnog broda - monitora “Lajta”, koji ove godine slavi 140 godina od porinuća.

- Mađari su „Lajtu“za ovu priliku rekonstrusali, restaurisali i pretvorili u brod muzej. On bi u aprilu trebalo da bude u Beču, a 21. maja u mađarskom gradu Baja, gde će biti centralna proslava. Nadamo se da bi Lajta mogla da produži i do Novog Sada i Beograda, gde je poslednji put plovila za vreme Prvog svetskog rata. Ovog puta to bi bila mirovna, kulturna misija, koja bi mogla da pokrene ovdašnju javnost u pravcu zaštite istorijskih brodova, jer se i u Srbiji, u Novom Sadu, nalazi jedan od sedam sačuvanih monitora u svetu. Nešto je mlađi od Lajte, sagrađen je 1905, njegovo prvo ime bilo je Bodrog, kasnije je preimenovan u Sava, a danas je plovni pristan uz bager Tisa – kaže Gordana Karović. JELENA TASIĆ

BEOGRADSKI ARSENAL Još od srednjeg veka Beograd je bio poznat ne samo kao trgovačka luka, sedište rečnih flotila i mesto sudbonosnih bitaka, nego i kao brodogradilište. Pod turskom vlašću Beograd je u 16. veku postao nadaleko čuveno vojno brodogradilište koje je moglo da se meri i sa, u to vreme, svetski poznatim carigardskim arsenalom. Turski izvori tvrde da je beogradsko brodogradilište, koje je osnovao Mehmedpaša Sokolović, godišnje gradilo 85 trirema – galija sa tri reda vesala, pandan današnjim razaračima. Tokom 17. i 18. veka u Beogradu su građene šajke, kaici i tombazi, a početkom 19. veka lađe nalik na morske brodove. Prvi kompletan morski brod - jedrenjak, u obnovljenoj srpskoj državi, posle objavljivanja Hatišerifa 1830. igradio je pomorski kapetan, Grk poreklom Nikola Kefala. Pre više od 100 godina iz radionice na Čukarici izlazile su drvarice i gvozdeni šlepovi. Research vessel Persistence Two (Istrajni Dva)

BelGuest WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11

E V E N T S

D O G A Đ A

feST 2011

feST 2011.

WHICH IS YOUR FILM?

U KOM SI FILMU

J I

he 39th International film festival (feST) will take place in Belgrade from 25th february until 6th march. The festival’s new artistic director, Boris anđelić, and selector Ivan Karl have chosen more than 70 films for this year, making this film selection the most diverse over the past few years, while the sheer number of films and diversity of the programme ensure very few people could go unfulfilled. Traditionally for feST, of course, this year will see screenings of almost all of the best, award-winning films from the world’s biggest festivals held throughout the past year: Berlin, Cannes, venice and Toronto. The feST audience will see the latest movies of some very important directors, as well as movies of the youngest film starlets, as well as three premieres by Serbian authors. British Hollywood actor ralph fiennes will open this year’s feST, this time in the role of director, with his debut film Coriolanus to be screened after the opening ceremony. The festival will close with the movie enemy (Neprijatelj), directed by Dejan Zečević. The 39th feST 2011 will be held, as is tradition, at the Sava Centre, the Belgrade Culture Centre and the museum of the film archive, as well as the renovated hall of Dom omladine youth Centre.

eđunarodni filmski festival fest, 39. po redu, biće održan u Beogradu od 25. februara do 6. marta. Novi umetnički direktor Borislav anđelić i selektor Ivan Karl su za ovogodišnji festival izabrali više od 70 filmova, što će program učiniti najfilmičnijim u poslednjih nekoliko godina, a sa tolikim brojem filmova i raznolikim programom malo ko će ostati nezadovoljan. Naravno, kako je to u tradiciji festa, i ove godine videćemo skoro sve najbolje i nagrađene filmove sa najvećih svetskih festivala u poslednjoj godini: Berlina, Kana, venecije, Toronta. festovskoj publici biće prikazani najnoviji filmovi velikih rediteljskih imena, filmovi najmlađih, budućih zvezda filma, te tri premijere domaćih autora. festival će otvoriti holivudski glumac ralf fajns, ovog puta u ulozi reditelja, čiji će debitantski film Koriolan biti prikazan na svečanom otvaranju. festival će zatvoriti film Neprijatelj reditelja Dejana Zečevića. fest 2011. tradicionalno će biti održan u Centru „Sava“, Kulturnom centru i muzeju kinoteke, a ove godine i u renoviranoj dvorani Doma omladine.

PremIereS

PremIjere

THE GLEMBAYS

GOSPODA GLEMBAJEVI

he long awaited performance of miroslav Krleža’s The glembays (gospoda glembajevi), directed by jagoš marković, has taken place after a 40 year absence. Played in front of a Belgrade audience gathered for the opening night on 2nd february at atelier 212 and including almost every significant figure in the city, Kokan mladenović, atelier 212 manager, told reporters that The glembays are a way to fight the scourge of bad taste that has reigned over our lives. The cast of this important theatre project includes our guest from Slovenia, Boris Kavaca, as well as anica Dobra, Nikola ristanovski, jelena Đokić, vlastimir ‘Đuza’ Stojiljkoivć, Tanasije Uzunović, Branislav Trifunović, Svetozar Cvetković et al. The glembays is the theatre event of the season, according to critics and journalists. all february shows have been sold out, with 400 people already on the waiting list for march’s performances.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

ugo najavljivana predstava rađena po knjizi „gospoda glembajevi“ miroslava Krleže, u režiji jagoša markovića, koja se posle 40 godina vratila pred beogradsku publiku, okupila je 2. februara, na premijeri u ateljeu 212, skoro sva značajna imena grada. Kokan mladenović, upravnik ateljea 212, izjavio je novinarima da su upravo „glembajevi” borba protiv pošasti lošeg ukusa koji je zavladao našim životima. glumačku ekipu ovog značajnog pozorišnog projekta čine gost iz Slovenije Boris Kavaca, anica Dobra, Nikola ristanovski, jelena Đokić, vlastimir – Đuza Stojiljković, Tanasije Uzunović, Branislav Trifunović, Svetozar Cvetković... Događaj pozorišne sezone, kako kritičari i novinari već određuju „glembajeve“, rasprodat je za sve februarske predstave, a 400 ljudi je na listi čekanja za izvođenja u martu.

E V E N T S

Small gallery of UlUPUDS

PACKED CULTURE

ejma Prodanović’s exhibition Packages has been supported by the Belgrade Culture Secretariat. as of 1st march, the Small gallery of UlUPUDS (the association of applied arts artists and Designers of Serbia) will exhibit this project, in which packaging material is used as both a creative material and a metaphor for the ‘packaged’ culture in which we live, that sees almost everything designed for consumption, while the truth and facts are hidden. The exhibited works are made of recycled materials: photographs from old magazines, catalogues, brochures and plastic toothbrush packaging. With aesthetics of free associations, selected parts of the images are merged within a new work in packages with specific forms that limit and distort the paper’s contents. as a special concept, entitled Brushes, the image of scanned assemblages is processed on a computer, then printed and glued to wooden planks. Šejma Prodanović’s fine art includes drawings, paintings and digital printing with an emphasis on collage form. She has been a member of the association of fine artists of Serbia with the status of independent artist since 2005. Her recent exhibitions include the Biennale of Photographs erosion in lithuania and New media festival rencontres Internationales Paris / Berlin / madrid. She has forthcoming solo exhibitions at the Pančevo Culture Centre and the Tukadmunga gallery in ljubljana.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

D O G A Đ A

J I

mala galerIja UlUPUDSa

UPAKOVANA KULTURA

zložbu Šejme Prodanović „Pakovanja“ podržao je Sekretarijat za kulturu grada Beograda. U maloj galeriji Ulupudsa do 1. marta izložen je projekat u kome se ambalaža koristi kao stvaralački materijal i kao metafora za „upakovanu“ kulturu u kojoj živimo, gde je skoro sve osmišljeno za potrošnju, a istina i činjenice prikriveni. Izloženi radovi su građeni od recikliranog materijala: fotografija iz starih časopisa, kataloga, brošura i plastične ambalaže četkica za zube. estetikom slobodnih asocijacija, odabrani delovi slika su spajani u nove celine unutar pakovanja čiji specifični oblik ograničava i deformiše papirni sadržaj. Kao poseban koncept, sa nazivom „Četkice“, slika skeniranog asamblaža se obrađuje na računaru, štampa i kašira na drvene daske. likovno stvaralaštvo Šejme Prodanović je iz domena crteža, slikarstva i digitalne štampe, sa naglaskom na kolažu. Član je Udruženja likovnih umetnika Srbije u statusu slobodnog umetnika od 2005. godine. Njene skorašnje izložbe su Bijenale fotografije erosion u litvaniji i festival novih medija rencontres Internationales Paris/Berlin/madrid, a predstoje samostalne izložbe u Kulturnom centru Pančeva i galeriji Tukadmunga u ljubljani.

E V E N T S

THe NIgHT of oPeN aTelIerS

MEETING PLACE

rt studios have always been places where people gather to talk and exchange ideas. The ateliers of certain artists brought together people with similar ideas from the world of music, literature, poetry – simply because that kind of socialising is itself the poetics of life in art. Those ateliers have been places of creation for paintings, sculptures, graphics etc. and are usually where those works of art are first seen by the eyes of another. Thanks to the idea of the association fractal 3, this all-encompassing energy, which is somewhat mystical for those not engaged in the world of art, became accessible to residents and guests of Belgrade on 14th february, during the Night of open ateliers. - We want to prove that this culture needs wisdom, love, understanding and that we, at this time more than ever, need each other. We want to open the Belgrade ateliers: first for one night and then, once we understand what Zmaj, Ujević, miljković, Kiš, radojčić and Kapor were talking and writing about, to open them forever. It would represent a new birth of the spirit of Belgrade, the affirmation of our spiritual and various other values. artists’ studios could once again become an important stop on the tourist map of Belgrade.

D O G A Đ A

J I

Noć oTvoreNIH aTeljea

MESTO SUSRETA

metnički ateljei su uvek bili mesta okupljanja, susreta, razgovora, razmena ideja. U ateljeima određenih umetnika okupljali su se ljudi sličnih ideja iz sveta muzike, književnosti, poezije. jer to druženje i jeste poetika života u umetnosti. U ateljeima nastaju slike, skulpture, grafike, tu najčešće i prvi put bivaju pokazivane nekom drugom oku. Ta sveobuhvatna, za ljude izvan umetnosti pomalo mistična energija, idejom Udruženja fraktal 3 postala je 14. februara dostupna žiteljima i gostima Beograda tokom Noći otvorenih ateljea: „Hoćemo da dokažemo kako su i novoj kulturi potrebni mudrost, ljubav, razumevanje i da smo svi u ovom vremenu više nego ikada potrebni jedni drugima. Želimo da otvorimo beogradske ateljee, prvo na jednu noć, a potom da ih , kada shvatimo o čemu su govorili i pisali Zmaj, Ujević, miljković, Kiš, radojčić, Kapor, otvorimo i za naredna vremena. Bilo bi to novo rađanje duha Beograda, afirmacija naših duhovnih, ali i svekolikih drugih vrednosti. Slikarski ateljei bi mogli ponovo da postanu važna tačka na turističkoj mapi Beograda.”

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

PLANE TREES OF A BOULEVARD

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Every metropolis is defined, among other things, by its parks, the trees adorning its streets and the nature that surrounds it and thus adds to its beauty. That is why Paris is famous for its green Champs-Élysées, London for Hyde Park, New York for Central Park: all oases of retreat from the fast pace of modern life. Belgrade’s King Aleksandar Boulevard (Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra) is famous for its Plane (Platanus) trees.

rban green areas tend to awaken a human sense that has been increasingly forgotten: the feeling of being inherently connected with nature. ”Without trees this world would have been an empty and gloomy place... The life that we know today would have been impossible. Fortunately, trees have been growing on our planet for millions of years...” This is just one recorded citation that explains why great care is invested in approaching the planning of urban green areas. The new row of trees along Kralja aleksandra Boulevard in the nation’s capital caused great attention last year. despite numerous obstacles and initial problems, the reconstruction of this main boulevard was completed, ensuring that Belgrade’s longest transport artery has now become a better and safer place for its citizens. DONATE FOR THE BOULEVARD reconstruction also included the removal of old, damaged and diseased plane trees and their replacement with new ones, which initially caused misunderstanding among citizens. However, a generally acceptable solution was soon reached. So-called “educated saplings” of plane trees, about 18 years old, were planted. Those trees were replanted five to six times and have now reached a height of about eight metres. Following a decision of the mayor of Belgrade, the campaign “donate for the Boulevard” was

launched. The campaign, which lasted only two weeks, saw donors set aside money for the procurement of new plane trees. each donor left a message on a plaque in front of their donated sapling. The donors’ messages are full of optimism, celebrating the joy of living. The donors mostly dedicated the trees to their closest ones, but also to their beloved Belgrade. TREE-LINED ALL THE WAY TO THE CITY CENTRE The boulevard’s tree-line is one of Belgrade’s most beautiful tree avenues. Planted in stages, starting from 1910 to the present day, it is dominated by plane trees (Platanus x acerifolia) - a rich, fast-growing species. However, over the decades exposed to the development and expansion of the city and ever more intense traffic, as well as the setting up of ground and underground infrastructure - the plane trees became seriously damaged. That is precisely what led to the need for intervention and the planting of new trees in accordance with the requirements of new urban conditions. The replacement of trees was conducted in three phases: the felling of rotten, sick and physiologically worn out plane trees was carried out from late February to early March; from June to September workers of public utility company JKP Zelenilo – Beograd (Greenery - Belgrade) labelled planting spots and set up concrete bases, while the planting of new trees ran from mid-October to late

november last year. The aim was to give Belgrade and its main boulevard healthy plane trees to replace the sick and injured trees and be developed according to a plan. The planting of new plane trees was JKP Zelenilo – Beograd’s largest and most complex professional. They were in charge of choosing the best offer for the purchase of trees, everyday planting exercises and the actual planting of new tree. The company did its best to respond to this challenge. The planting of 415 plane trees began on 19th October and ended with the placing of the last tile with a donor’s message, on time, at the end of november. The city’s longest boulevard now has 484 plane trees, which is 61 more than it had prior to the renovation, and the project completes the ecological and security project of the boulevard - with the replacement of sick and damaged trees that posed a threat to both people and property. In this way, JKP Zelenilo – Beograd fulfilled its promises to the citizens of Belgrade and again proved it cares about the quality of life and security of its citizens. and Belgrade can take pride in this new tree line along its longest boulevard, which was modelled on european boulevards and leads into the heart of the city centre. Gordana miljojković Public Utility CompanyGreenery - Belgrade

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

PLATANI JEDNOG BULEVARA Svaku metropolu, pored ostalog, određuju i njeni parkovi, drveće koje krasi ulice, priroda koja je okružuje i čini još lepšom. Zbog toga je Pariz poznat i po zelenom Šanzelizeu, London po Hajd-parku, Njujork po Centralparku – oazama odmora od ubrzanog ritma savremenog čoveka. A beogradski Bulevar kralja Aleksandra poznat je po svojim platanima.

pravo gradske zelene površine bude u čoveku ono, sve više zaboravljeno, osećanje da je deo neraskidive veze sa prirodom. „Bez drveća svet bi bio pusto i sumorno mesto... Život koji danas poznajemo bio bi nemoguć. Srećom, drveće raste na našoj planeti milionima godina..“, samo je jedan od zabeleženih citata. Zato se sa ogromnom pažnjom pristupa uređenju zelenih gradskih površina. novi drvored u Bulevaru kralja aleksandra u našoj prestonici upravo je izazvao tu pažnju prošle godine. I pored brojnih prepreka i problema na samom početku, rekonstrukcija Bulevara završena je tako što je najduža saobraćajnica u Beogradu postala lepše i bezbednije mesto za svoje građane. DAR ZA BULEVAR rekonstrukcija je podrazumevala i seču starih, oštećenih i bolesnih stabala, te zamenu novim platanima, što je na početku naišlo na nerazumevanje građana. Ubrzo se posle, demokratskog diajaloga

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

sa predstavnicima građana, našlo prihvaćeno rešenje. Zasađene su „školovane sadnice“ platana starosti oko 18 godina, koje su presađivane pet do šest puta, visine oko osam metara. Odlukom gradonačelnika Beograda, pokrenuta je akcija „dar za Bulevar“, koja je trajala samo dve nedelje, kada su donatori izdvojili novac za nabavku novih platana. Svako od njih ostavio je poruku na pločici ispred sadnice. Poruke donatora su pune optimizma, one slave radost življenja. donatori su ih najčešće posvećivali svojim bližnjima, ali i svom Beogradu. DRVOREDOM DO CENTRA GRADA drvored u Bulevaru kralja aleksandra jedan je od najlepših u Beogradu, sađen u etapama, počevši od 1910. godine, i on postoji do danas.

U njemu dominira platan (Platanus x acerifolia), raskošna i brzorastuća vrsta. Međutim, tokom decenija izložen uticaju razvoja i širenja grada, sve gušćem saobraćaju, postavljanjem podzemne i nadzemne infrastrukture, platan je veoma oštećen. Zbog toga je i odlučeno da se zasadi novi drvored, u skladu sa zahtevima vremena i u novim gradskim uslovima. Zamena drvoreda tekla je u tri faze – od kraja februara do početka marta trajala je seča trulih, bolesnih i fiziološki dotrajalih stabala platana. Od juna do septembra radnici JKP „Zelenilo Beograd“ obeležavali su sadna mesta i postavljali betonske kasete, dok je sadnja novog drvoreda trajala od polovine oktobra do kraja novembra prošle godine. Cilj je bio da Beograd i Bulevar umesto oštećenih i bolesnih dobiju

zdrave platane, koji će se planski razvijati. Sadnja novih platana bila je najkompleksniji i profesionalno najveći zadatak za JKP „Zelenilo Beograd“. Od odabira najbolje ponude za nabavku platana, preko svakodnevnih vežbi sadnje, pa do samog čina zasađivanja novih platana, „Zelenilo“ se trudilo da na najbolji način odgovori na ovaj izazov. Sadnja 415 sadnica platana počela je 19. oktobra, a završena je postavljanjem poslednje pločice sa porukom donatora, u predviđenom roku, krajem novembra. najduži bulevar u Beogradu sada ima 484 stabla platana, odnosno 61 stablo više nego što je bilo u starom drvoredu. Time je ispunjen ekološkobezbednosni projekat rekonstrukcije Bulevara, jer su zamenjena oštećena i bolesna stabla, koja su predstavljala opasnost za građane i imovinu. na taj način je JKP „Zelenilo – Beograd“ ispunilo obećanja data Beograđanima i ponovo dokazalo da brine o kvalitetu života i bezbednosti svojih sugrađana. a Beograd sada može da se podiči novim drvoredom u najdužem bulevaru u gradu, koji je urađen po ugledu na evropske, a vodi ka centru grada. Gordana miljojković JKP „Zelenilo Beograd“

Plane (Platanus) trees of kralja Aleksandra Boulevard, circa 1960, photo Debeljković

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

M I K H A I L V I K TO R O V I C H S L I P E N C H U K , O W N E R O F C O M PA N Y P U T N I K

THERE IS ONLY ONE DIRECTION I think that in business, as in life, it is important to do what you say. To our partners and customers we are completely open and fair; we give them a choice and do our best for them to be more successful and richer. When our partners and customers are richer, we are more successful and richer as well. This is our principle. We have an unofficial motto: “Reputation is profitable,” because if you have a good reputation your profitability increases. We also have an official slogan: “There are different ways, but only one direction.”

during the crisis year of 1998 and was even $3 million more in debt before he managed to regain it all. That experience helped him understand the essence of money - You can give yourself the most difficult tasks and the highest of goals, but that goal cannot be money. Money is the only universal instrument for achieving goals. One of Slipenchuk’s goals is to restore Putnik to the brand that it once was: a brand well-known throughout Europe and the world. The recently opened Tulip Inn Putnik Hotel is just an announcement of movements towards that goal.

he following interview will convince you that a man who knows what he wants, who has the force of will, is not afraid of defeat, chooses among different paths but has only one direction – leading toward success – can make it all happen. Mikhail Viktorovich Slipenchuk, owner of the Investment and Financial Company Metropol, also became the owner of travel agency Putnik several years ago. This is a businessman who was ranked 127th on Forbes’ list of world billionaires; a man who lost $24 million in one day

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Company Metropol has invested around €10 million in the Tulip Inn Hotel Putnik. This is the biggest Russian investment in tourism in Serbia. What were the main arguments in favour of investing and what prompted you to make that decision? - Frankly speaking, company Metropol has invested more than US$100 million in tourism. In addition to purchasing Putnik, we’ve had many other investments that have passed unnoticed for now. I think that this hotel is the first indication of our work in the post-Yugoslav area. The main reason we invested in Putnik was that Metropol is a company that creates. When we bought the hotel we had two options: sell and make money, or renovate, revive and then sell. Things should always be called by their real name and our job is just that. We invest money in high risk projects, creating from scratch what is attractive to investors and eventually, once the job done, we sell it. When we acquired the agency in 2007, Putnik was celebrating its 85th anniversary. It is already part of the history of a country - in this case Serbia. Many people have worked in that company; generations have been employed in Putnik. So I decided to preserve the name Putnik and use it to create a company to deal with the hotel business. It will be a company that owns and manages real estate. Here in Belgrade we took a European brand, Golden Tulip Hospitality Group, which is among ten largest hotel chains on the planet. We have our team, with no foreigners. We are just starting the construction of hotel chains in Russia, in eastern Siberia, and will probably build in Moscow too. It will be Metropol’s investment, and Putnik’s property. It probably won’t be a Serbian company any longer, but

Researching Baikal rather an international one, and one should have a normal respomse to this. It will be an excellent chain of hotels. I want to make Putnik the brand that it once was: well-known throughout Europe and the world. Was the decision to invest in Putnik based purely on business arguments or was there something deeper; something in the tradition of RussianSerbian relations? - I will have to disappoint you: at the beginning there was no mention of Russian-Serbian relations. They appeared later. At first I only wanted to buy an island for myself, for my soul. Then I discovered the island of Saint Marko. Later, when a fierce battle for Putnik was underway, I realised that I was mistaken and that the island should be in some way open to other people. Afterwards a new concept was conceived: to set up a six-star hotel for successful and wealthy guests. This was the original focus of my interest. All other Putnik property that I obtained was in the background. Having run a business in Serbia for these few past years, have you spotted any similarities between the Serbian and Russian mentality, ways of thinking and working? - The Serbs and the Russians belong to the same Slavic tribe, so one might expect us to be the same, but I think we are different. This difference is dictated by our geographical position. Serbia is central Europe and Russia is Asia. The hotel staff working at the Tulip Inn Hotel in Putnik will go to work in Russia and will train Russians on how to properly perform their job. I do not want to take other Europeans, nor Muscovites, but I want the Serbs to train the Russians according to the European mode of work. This was the part of Russian-Serbian relations that you said emerged later? - I didn’t really know well what Serbia was. When we started working, we started to understand each other and find common ground.

What do you expect from Putnik Belgrade and are there already some new plans in Serbia? - We are only the owners of Putnik and have no other assets. We are considering what to do with the central building, which is located near the city hall. I had an idea to sell it, but I didn’t find the price offered interesting to me. So I’m thinking of perhaps opening a boutique hotel there. I believe that the Serbian government and Serbian businessmen, as well as people who come here on business, will be interested in finding accommodating in the city centre. That might be good, though it will be an expensive hotel. I hope that the name we came up for it for now – Baikal – will not change. We want our business in the Baikal to be symbolically linked to Serbia. They say money changes people. You, it seems, have not changed. How do you resist the pressure of the power of money? - Money does change people, very much. I have seen it with my own eyes. I was, thank God, spared that change. The story that I am about to tell you may sound strange to you, but I was saved from this kind of influence of money by the 1998 crisis. At that time I earned a lot of money, more than US$24 million, but one day I just lost everything. I was even US$3 million more in debt. I felt for myself what a disaster looks like and anyone who has such experience establishes a clear system of values. People do not appreciate the thickness of your wallet, but rather human qualities like goodness, faithfulness and honesty. Every man has his own value system. What are the most important values in life for you? - For every man work should come first and family second. Not vice versa. And for a woman it is the other way round.

DraGana marKOViĆ

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

M I H A I L V I K TO R O V I Č S L I P E N Č U K , V L A S N I K KO M PA N I J E ” P U T N I K ”

PRAVAC JE SAMO JEDAN Smatram da je u poslu, kao i u životu, važno da ispuniš ono o čemu govoriš. Prema našim partnerima i klijentima potpuno smo otvoreni i pošteni, dajemo im mogućnost izbora i težimo da oni budu uspešniji i bogatiji. Kad su naši partneri i klijenti bogatiji i uspešniji, i mi smo uspešniji i bogatiji. Takav nam je princip. Mi imamo nezvanični slogan: „Reputacija je rentabilna“, jer ako imate dobru reputaciju, vaša rentabilnost raste. Imamo i zvanični slogan: „Postoje različiti putevi, ali je pravac samo jedan!“

azgovor koji sledi uveriće vas u to da čovek koji zna šta hoće, ima snagu volje, ne boji se poraza, bira među različitim putevima, ali mu je pravac samo jedan – ka uspehu. To sve i može da ostvari. Mihail Viktorovič Slipenčuk, vlasnik Investiciono-finansijske kompanije „Metropol“, od pre nekoliko godina i vlasnik kompanije „Putnik“. Biznismen koji je na 127. mestu Forbsove liste milijardera, ima iskustvo čoveka koji je u jednom danu, tokom krizne 1998. godine izgubio 24,000.000 dolara, čak ostao dužan tri miliona, da bi sve to, i više od toga, ponovo stekao. To iskustvo pomoglo mu je da shvati suštinu novca: „Možete sebi zadati najteže zadatke, najviše ciljeve. Ali to ne može da bude novac. Novac je samo univerzalni instrument postizanja ciljeva.“ Jedan od ciljeva gospodina Slipenčuka je da „Putnik“ učini brendom kakav je nekada bio – poznat u čitavoj Evropi, ali i svetu. Nedavno svečano otvaranje hotela Tulip In Putnik najava je kretanja ka tom cilju. Kompanija „Metropol“ investirala je u hotel „Tulip In Putnik“ oko deset miliona evra. To je najveća ruska investicija u oblasti turizma u Srbiji.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Koji su bili glavni argumenti u korist investiranja, zašto ste doneli takvu odluku? - Iskreno govoreći, kompanija „Metropol“ je u turizam investirala više od sto miliona evra. Pored kupovine „Putnika“, imali smo i mnoge druge investicije, koje su, zasad, prošle neprimetno. Mislim da je ovaj hotel prvi pokazatelj našeg rada na postjugoslovenskom prostoru. Osnovni razlog zbog kog smo investirali u Putnik je taj što je „Metropol“ kompanija koja stvara. Kad smo kupili hotel, imali smo dve varijante: ili da ga prodamo i zaradimo novac, ili da ga renoviramo, oživimo i potom, svejedno – prodamo. Stvari uvek treba nasloviti pravim imenom, a naš posao je upravo takav. Mi ulažemo novac u visokorizične projekte, od nule stvaramo ono što je privlačno za investitore i, na kraju, taj urađeni posao – prodamo. Kad smo se 2007. godine okupili, „Putnik“ je proslavljao 85 godina postojanja. To je već deo istorije jedne zemlje. U ovom slučaju Srbije. Mnogo ljudi je u toj firmi radilo, generacije su tu bile zaposlene. Zato sam odlučio da sačuvam ime „Putnik“ i da od tog imena napravim firmu koja će se baviti hotelskim biznisom, koja će posedovati nekretnine i njima upravljati. Ovde, u Beogradu, uzeli smo evropski brend Golden Tulip Hospitaliti Grup, koji

Colour of Baikal

spada u 10 najvećih hotelskih lanaca na planeti. Tim je naš, u njemu nema nijednog stranca. Upravo započinjemo sa izgradnjom lanaca hotela u Rusiji, istočnom Sibiru, a verovatno ćemo graditi i u Moskvi. Biće to „Metropolove“ investicije, a „Putnikovo“ vlasništvo. To verovatno više neće biti srpska kompanija, već međunarodna i prema tome treba imati normalan odnos. Biće to odličan lanac hotela. Želim da od „Putnika“ napravim brend kakav je nekad bio – poznat u čitavoj Evropi, ali i u svetu. Da li je odluka da investirate u „Putnik“ doneta samo argumentima biznisa ili u njoj ima i nečeg dubljeg, u tradiciji rusko-srpskih odnosa? - Moram da vas razočaram. U početku nije bilo reči ni o kakvim rusko-srpskim odnosima. Oni su se kasnije pojavili. Najpre sam samo poželeo da za sebe, za svoju dušu, kupim ostrvo. Tada sam otkrio ostrvo Sveti Marko. Kasnije, kada se vodila žestoka borba za kompaniju „Putnik“, shvatio sam da nisam u pravu i da ostrvo na neki način treba otvoriti i za druge ljude. Posle toga je začeta nova koncepcija – skup hotel sa šest zvezdica za uspešne i bogate. To je tada bilo težište mojih interesovanja. Sva ostala „Putnikova“ imovina koju sam dobio bila je u drugom planu. Poslujući ovih nekoliko godina u Srbiji, da li mislite da između srpskog i ruskog mentaliteta, načina mišljenja i rada postoje sličnosti? - Srbi i Rusi su isto slovensko pleme, zato se može očekivati da budemo isti, ali ja mislim da smo različiti. Tu razliku diktiraju i naši geografski položaji. Srbija je centralna Evropa, Rusija je Azija. Personal koji radi u „Tulip In Putnik“ hotelu ići će na rad u Rusiju i obučavaće Ruse kako da pravilno obavljaju svoj posao. Ne želim da uzimam druge Evropljane, niti Moskovljane, već hoću da Srbi obuče Ruse evropskom načinu rada. To je onaj deo o rusko-srpskim odnosima za koje ste rekli da su se kasnije pojavili.

- Nisam baš najbolje znao šta je to Srbija. Kad smo počeli da radimo, polako smo jedni druge razumevali i pronalazili zajednički jezik. Šta očekujete od projekta „Putnik Beograd“ i postoje li već neki novi planovi u Srbiji? - Mi smo samo vlasnici „Putnika“, nemamo drugu imovinu. Razmišljamo šta da radimo s centralnom zgradom, koja se nalazi u blizini Gradske skupštine. Imao sam ideju da je prodam, ali ponuđena cena mi nije bila zanimljiva. Zato sada razmišljam da možda tamo otvorimo butik hotel. Mislim da će i Vlada Srbije, i srpski biznismeni, i ljudi koji dolaze službeno biti zainteresovani za smeštaj u samom centru. To bi moglo da bude dobro. Biće to skup hotel. Nadam se da se naziv koji smo mu zasad smislili – „Bajkal“ – neće promeniti. Želimo da naš posao na Bajkalu i simbolično povežemo sa Srbijom. Kažu da novac menja ljude. Vas, čini se, nije promenio. Kako odolevate pritisku moći novca? - Novac menja ljude, i to veoma. Sam sam se osvedočio. Mene je to, hvala bogu, mimoišlo. Biće vam možda čudna priča koja sledi, ali je mene od te vrste uticaja novca spasla kriza 1998. godine. U to vreme sam zaradio mnogo novca, više od 24,000.000 dolara i za jedan dan sam sve izgubio. Još sam ostao dužan tri miliona. Osetio sam na sopstvenoj koži šta je to propast, a onaj ko ima takvo iskustvo uspostavlja vrlo jasan sistem vrednosti. Ljude ne cenim po debljini novčanika, već po ljudskim kvalitetima, kao što su dobrota, čestitost, poštenje. Svaki čovek ima svoj sistem vrednosti. Šta je za Vas najvrednije u životu? - Svakom muškarcu bi na prvom mestu trebalo da bude posao, a na drugom porodica. Ne obrnuto. A za žene je upravo obrnuto. DraGana marKOViĆ

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

S I E P A

–

F I N A N c I A l

S u P P o r T

T o

I N v E S T o r S

MOST COST-EFFECTIVE INVESTMENT IN THE SERBIAN ECONOMY Alongside existing advantages, such as an educated and cheap workforce, tax-free export to countries and state unions with a total of around a billion inhabitants, a strategic location and the lowest rate of tax on profit in Europe, Serbia has completed its package designed for investors with its Programme of Financial Support to Investors.

he Programme of Financial Support to Investors was created in 2006 and modelled on similar programmes of other transition countries, particularly Slovakia, Ireland and Slovenia, which all attracted significant investment in a short period. This Programme can include investment projects in all sectors with the exceptions of trade, hospitality and agriculture. The funds are intended to finance investment projects in the manufacturing and service sectors that may be subject to international trade. The total amount of funds to be allocated is determined by the number of new employees hired during the three-year period following the date of signing the fund allocation contract and also depend on the type of investment, its location and the fulfilment of criteria. Exceptions are made for investments deemed to be of special importance. MODIFICATION OF THE PROGRAMME The programme was last modified in May 2010, when the Serbian government decided to prioritise

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

40 devastated municipalities in Serbia and four cities of special interest for the industrial development of the region: Niš, Kraljevo, Zaječar and Novi Pazar.

Standard investment projects are evaluated and graded on the basis of a list of certain criteria. Important criteria include investors’ references; the share of domestic suppliers and the effects

Financial Grants Manufacturing and Export-Related Services

Eligible Projects Large-Scale Projects

ExportRelated Services

Manufacturing

Projects Realized in Devastated Regions and Regions of Special State Interest

Projects in Automotive, Electronics, IT Industries Realized in Regions of Special State Interest

Projects Projects Realized in Realized in Any Other Regions Region

25% of the total investment

20% of the total investment

€4,00010,000

€5,00010,000

€2,0005,000

€2,00010,000

Minimum Investment Amount

€200 mn

€50 mn

€0.5 mn

€1 mn

€0.5 mn

Minimum N0 of New Jobs Created

1,000

300

Grant Amount

of the investment on the productivity of other domestic companies, enterprises and entities operating in the same sector; the sustainability of the investment, i.e. the durability of operations, new technologies and the ability to transfer know-how and skills to local suppliers; the effects of the investment on human resources and an environmental impact assessment. other factors evaluated are the volume of exports, import substitution, the effects of said investment on the economic growth of municipalities, i.e., cities or regions in which they invest, as well as letters of support/intent from the Municipality or city that receives incentives and benefits, in accordance with the applicable laws of the republic of Serbia, in which the investor intends to invest. Applications for accessing these funds are submitted to the Serbian Investment and Export Promotion Agency (SIEPA) following the announcement of a public call for the allocation of one-off grants. After the completion of a project evaluation procedure, funds are allocated to selected companies in accordance with the total number of points. Payments are carried out periodically during the project, in instalments of 25 percent of the allocated funds and upon the conclusion of the sale and purchase agreement or the land lease contract; after obtaining a building permit; after receiving a usage permit and after achieving the full level of employment envisaged by the investment project. MECHANISM OF PROTECTION During payment of each portion of approved

funds, the investor must submit, along with the necessary proof of eligibility for payment, a first-class bank guarantee for the amount provided by the state. These bank guarantees are valid for the duration of contractual obligations and may be charged at any time there is a failure to undertake commitments, such as making workers redundant within the three-year period. To date twelve rounds of applications for financial support to investors have been carried out and there are currently 151 “live” projects on the programme. Twenty companies withdrew because of their inability to meet contractual obligations, while the state charged bank guarantees in four instances, due to planned obligations not being met. These 151 investments have generated a total of €700 million of direct investment and created 23,000 new jobs. Budget incentives of around €85 million have been allocated to cover that. A simple calculation leads to the conclusion that a single euro invested from the budget generates more than eight euros worth of investment. one particularly interesting economic calculation shows that one euro invested through direct and indirect revenue returns to the budget within an average of 17 months. In certain cases, such as the investment by Yura corporation in rača, the period of a return on funds was less than a year. Add to all of this the numerically immeasurable effects of launching small businesses in these devastated areas, as well as providing employment for the local construction industry and other

industries with the funds provided for investors, one must conclude that this programme is the most cost-effective investment in Serbia’s economic development. BelGuest

Ostala područja Devastirana područja Područja od posebnog interesa

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

S I E PA – F I N A N S I j S K A P o D r š K A I N v E S T I To r I M A

NAJISPLATIVIJE ULAGANJE U EKONOMIJU SRBIJE Pored prednosti kao što su obrazovana i jeftina radna snaga, bescarinski izvoz u zemlje i zajednice zemalja od oko milijardu stanovnika, strateški geografski položaj i najnižu stopu poreza na dobit u Evropi – Srbija je kompletirala svoj paket namenjen ulagačima Programom finansijske podrške investitorima.

rogram finansijske podrške investitorima nastao je 2006. godine po ugledu na slične programe tranzicionih zemalja, pre svega Slovačke, Irske i Slovenije, koje su privukle znatne investicije u kratkom roku. ovim programom mogu biti obuhvaćeni investicioni projekti u svim delatnostima, osim trgovine, ugostiteljstva i poljoprivrede. Sredstva su namenjena za finansiranje investicionih projekata u proizvodnom sektoru i sektoru usluga, koji mogu biti predmet međunarodne trgovine. ukupna sredstva za dodeljivanje određuju se prema novim radnim mestima otvorenim tokom tri godine, od dana potpisivanja ugovora o dodeli sredstava, u zavisnosti od oblika investiranja, mesta investiranja i ispunjenosti kriterijuma. Izuzetak čine investicije od posebnog značaja. MODIFIKACIJA PROGRAMA Svoju poslednju modifikaciju Program je doživeo u maju 2010. godine, kada je vlada Srbije donela odluku da se favorizuje 40 devastiranih opština Srbije, te četiri grada od posebnog interesa za industrijski razvoj regiona: Niš, Kraljevo, Zaječar i Novi Pazar. Standardni investicioni projekti se ocenjuju i boduju na osnovu liste određenih kriterijuma. Među bitnim kriterijumima su i reference investitora, udeo domaćih dobavljača i efekta investicije na produktivnost ostalih domaćih privrednih društava, preduzeća i drugih pravnih lica koja rade u istom sektoru, zatim održivost investicije – trajnost poslovanja, nove tehnologije i prenosivost znanja i veština na domaće dobavljače, efekti investicija na ljudske snage, ocene uticaja na životnu sredinu. vrednuju se i obim izvoza, supstitucije uvoza, efekti investicije na privredni razvoj opštine, odnosno grada i regiona u koje se investira, pisma podrške, odnosno pisma o namerama opštine, odnosno grada kojim se pružaju olakšice i povoljnosti u skladu sa pozitivnim propisima republike Srbije u koje investitor namerava da ulaže. Prijave za dodelu sredstava podnose se Agenciji

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

naplatila bankarske garancije zbog neispunjavanja predviđenih obaveza. Ta 151 investicija ukupno je generisala oko 700,000.000 evra direktnih investicija i otvorila 23.000 novih radnih mesta. Za sve to opredeljeno je oko 85,000.000 evra podsticaja iz budžeta. jednostavnom računicom se dolazi do zaključka da se na jedan evro uložen iz budžeta generiše više od osam evra investicija. Poseban kuriozitet je ekonomska kalkulacija da se i taj jedan evro putem direktnih i indirektnih prihoda vraća u budžet za 17 meseci u proseku. u pojedinim slučajevima, kao što je investicija Yura korporacije u raču, taj rok povrata sredstava kraći je od godinu dana. Kada svemu tome dodamo numerički nemerljive efekte pokretanja male privrede u takvim, devastiranim područijima, te upošljavanje domaće građevine i drugih industrija sredstvima koja se daju investitorima, Program predstavlja najisplativije ulaganje u ekonomski razvoj u Srbiji.

za strana ulaganja i promociju izvoza (SIEPA) nakon objavljenog javnog poziva za dodelu bespovratnih sredstava. Nakon sprovedenog postupka ocenjivanja projekata, sredstva se dodeljuju izabranim kompanijama u skladu sa ukupnim brojem bodova. Isplate se obavljaju periodično tokom trajanja projekta, u jednakim iznosima od 25% vrednosti dodeljenih sredstava, posle zaključenja kupoprodajnog ugovora ili ugovora o zakupu zemljišta; posle dobijanja građevinske dozvole; posle dobijanja upotrebne dozvole i posle ostvarenja potpune zaposlenosti predviđene investicionim projektom. MEHANIZAM ZAŠTITE Prilikom isplate svake od tranši odobrenih sredstava, investitor je, uz potrebni dokaz o ispunjenosti uslova za isplatu, dužan da priloži i prvoklasnu bankarsku garanciju na iznos koji se dobija od države. Do sada je održano 12 prijavnih krugova za finansijsku podršku investitorima, a na programu se trenutno nalazi 151 „živi“ projekat. Dvadeset kompanija je odustalo zbog nemogućnosti da ispoštuju ugovorne obaveze, a u četiri slučaja država je

BelGuest

Finansijska podrška Proizvodni sektor i sektor usluga koje su predmet međunarodne trgovine Projekti kojima se odobravaju sredstva Projekti od posebnog znacaja

Sektor usluga koje su ili mogu biti predmet međunarodne trgovine

Proizvodni sektor

Projekti realizovani u devastirana područja i područja od posebnog interesa

Projekti realizovani u automobilsku, elektronsku ili ICT industriju u područja od posebnog interesa

Projekti realizovani u ostala područja Republike Srbije

Projekti realizovani u bilo kom području Republike Srbije

2.000 – 5.000 evra

2.000 – 10.000 evra

25% od ukupne visine investicije

20% od ukupne visine investicije

Minimalni iznos ulaganja

200 miliona evra

50 miliona evra

500 hiljada evra

1 milion evra

500 hiljada evra

Minimalni broj otvaranja novih radnih mesta

1,000

300

Visina sredstava

4.000 – 10.000 5.000 – 10.000 evra evra

photo: Svetlana Dingarac

elcome to Belgrade! On these pages we are presenting you with the regular programme of tourist sightseeing in Belgrade and its surroundings. You can get to know the city by walking, riding tour buses, minibuses or the tram system. The city rivers’ sightseeing programme represents a special tourist offer. From these offers you can opt for special cultural-historical tours and programmes that will acquaint you with interesting segments of the tradition of Belgrade. The offer also includes attractive balloon flights, as well as day trips and excursions in the vicinity of Belgrade. Visit the website and information centres of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade for more detailed information and to make reservations. www.tob.co.rs

obrodošli u Beograd! Na ovim stranicama predstavljamo vam redovne programe turističkih razgledanja Beograda i njegove okoline. Grad možete upoznati šetajući, vozeći se turističkim autobusima, minibusevima ili tramvajem. Posebnu ponudu čini program razgedanja grada s reka. Iz ove ponude možete odabrati specijalne kulturnoistorijske ture i programe koji će vas upoznati s zanimljivim segmentima tradicije Beograda. U ponudi su i atraktivni letovi balonima, kao i jednodnevni ture i izleti u blizni Beograda. Posetite internet stranice Turističke organizacije Beograda i Informativne centre za detaljne informacije i rezervacije. www.tob.co.rs

BelGuest WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11

TAKING A STROLL THROUGH BELGRADE ŠETNJE BE0GRADOM

Zemun Quay, Old Harbor-Master’s Office Building (Stara Kapetanija) and Old Customs Office Building (Stara Carinarnica). Departure: each Saturday 16:00, in front of the Old City Hall (Stari Magistrat), April-October Language: Serbian-English Duration: 90 minutes, Ticket price: 200 dinars Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859, & TIC Zemun, tel. 2192 093

STARI ZEMUN

A STROLL THROUGH DOWNTOWN BELGRADE AND BELGRADE FORTRESS

Zemun svojim kulturno-istorijskim spomenicima i tradicionalnom gostoljubivošću prima mnogobrojne posetioce koji uživaju u nacionalnoj kuhinji i prisnoj atmosferi njegovih restorana. Maršruta: Magistratski trg, Zavetni krst, Gajeva ulica, Karamatina (Karamatina kuća), Njegoševa (Nikolajevska crkva), Gardoš, Grobljanska, Sinđelićeva, Zemunski kej, Stara kapetanija i Stara carinarnica. Polazak: svake subote u 16h, ispred zgrade Starog magistrata, april-oktobar Jezik: srpski-engleski Trajanje: 90 minuta; Cena karte: 200 dinara Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 i TIC Zemun, tel. 2192 093

Through this tour you will get to know Downtown, Belgrade Fortress and the largest green belt in Belgrade, Kalemegdan Park. Route: Palace Albanija, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova St., Kralja Petra I St. (National Bank of Serbia, Cafe ”?” – Znak pitanja, Cathedral Church, Patriarchal Court, Residence of Princess Ljubica, Pariska St., Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade Fortress (Upper Town), Artistic Pavilion Cvijeta Zuzorić. Departure: each Saturday in front of Palace Albanija (minimum 5 persons) Language: Serbian (at 11:00) and English (at 13:00) Duration: 120 minutes; Ticket price: 200 dinars Bookings: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 , & Tourist Information Center Terazije, Pedestrian Subway under Palace Albanija, tel. 2635-622

ŠETNJA KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Na ovoj turi upoznaćete uže jezgro grada, Beogradsku tvrđavu i najveći zeleni pojas Beograda - park Kalemegdan. Maršruta : Palata Albanija, Trg Republike, Knez Mihailova, Ulica kralja Petra (Narodna banka Srbije, Kafana ?), Saborna crkva, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak kneginje Ljubice, Pariska ulica, park Kalemegdan, Beogradska tvrđava (Gornji grad), umetnički paviljon Cvijeta Zuzorić Polazak: svake subote ispred Palate Albanija Jezik: srpki (u 11h) i engleski (u 13h) Trajanje: 120 minuta, Cena karte: 200 dinara Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 i TIC, Terazije, podzemni prolaz Palate Albanija, tel. 2635-622

OLD ZEMUN

Zemun with its cultural and historical monuments and traditional hospitality, receives numerous visitors who enjoy the national cuisine and intimate ambience in its numerous restaurants. Route: Square Magistratski trg, Zavetni krst, Gajeva St., Karamatina (Karamata’s House), Njegoševa St. (Nikolaevskaya Church), Gardoš, Grobljanska, Sinđelićeva,

WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11 BelGuest

BELGRADE TROUGH BELGRADE CITY MUSEUM(S)

Walking through a city is the best way to feel its rhytm. For that reason we suggest you to turn this tour into an easy walk during which you may visit four museums: Residence of Princess Ljubica, Museum of Paja Jovanović, Museum of Ivo Andrić and Museum of Jovan Cvijić. Tickets for the four museums tour programme cost a total of 200 dinars and can be purchased at the ticket offices of any of the included museums. Information: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, & Belgrade City Museum tel. 2630-462

KROZ MUZEJ(E) GRADA BEOGRADA

Najlepši način da se upozna grad, njegov duh, jeste proći kroz njega peške. Zato predlažemo da obilazak Beograda kroz muzej(e) grada Beograda bude lagana šetnja tokom koje mogu da se obiđu 4 muzeja: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej Paje Jovanovića, Muzej Ive Andrića i Muzej Jovana Cvijića. Ulaznice za program

Hotel Accommodation Sightseeing Tours Transfers Business Service Rent-a-car Train, bus & air tickets Complete Service Assistance GUARATNEED DEPARTURES -pick up from hotels CITY TOUR-Daily ,at 10.50,2 Hours with photo stop, OPLENAC-Wed,at 14.00,4 Hours NOVI SAD-Thu, at 14.00,4 hours RESERVATION NEEDED

www.metropoliten.com www.travelserbiabelgrade.com glob@metropoliten.com

obilaska 4 muzeja u kompletu su 200,00 RSD i mogu se kupiti na biletarnicama svakog od pomenutih muzeja. Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6 i Muzej grada Beograda tel. 2630-462

BELGRADE BUS /TRAM/MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEOGRAD IZ AUTOBUSA, TRAMVAJA, MINIBUSA

BELGRADE BUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

Get to know Belgrade by cruising its city streets and enjoy the interesting stories of guides about the history, architecture and life of Belgraders. Through this tour will be familiarized with the narrow core of the city and part of New Belgrade Route: Belgrade City Assembly, National Parliament, Terazije, Republic Square, Studentski Trg, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade, Topcidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Slavija, Nikola Pasic’s Square Departure point: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Sunday at 10:00 am (in English) Duration: 90 minute guided tour; Tickets are sold onboard city buses Information: Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 & Pedestrian Subway under Palace Albanija, tel. 2635-622

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA IZ AUTOBUSA

Upoznajte Beograd krstareći njegovim gradskim ulicama i uživajte u interesantoj priči vodiča o istoriji grada, arhitekturi i životu Beograđana. Kroz ovu turu upoznaćete uže jezgro grada i deo Novog Beograda. Maršruta: Skupština grada Beograda, Dom Narodne skupštine, Terazije, Trg Republike, Studentski trg, Beogradska tvrđava, Varoš kapija, Novi Beograd, Topčidersko brdo, Dedinje, Trg oslobođenja, Trg Slavija, Trg Nikole Pašića

Makenzijeva 26, 11000 Beograd, Srbija Telefoni: (011) 2430-852, (011) 2430-899, (011) 2437-483, (011) 2431-076

Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, nedeljom u 12h (srpski) Trajanje: 90 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča; Karte se prodaju u autobusu Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 i TIC Terazije, podzemni prolaz Palate Albanija, tel. 2635-622

TRAM NAMED BELGRADE

Route: Departure from the tram turntable at Zoo, street Tadeuša Košćuška, Kalemegdan park, port, Karadjordjeva street, Nemanjina street, Resavska street, Boulevard of king Aleksandar, monuments of Vuk Stefanović Karadžić, Kealjice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana to Beko. Departure: Friday, from 20 to 21 pm / tours in english; Saturday: from 16 to 17 pm / tours in English Duration: 60 minute guided tour Reservations: Tourist information center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 & Tourist Information Center Terazije, Pedestrian Subway under Palace Albanija, tel. 2635-622 The program is free of charge, number of places limited -25 persons

TRAMVAJ ZVANI BEOGRAD

Maršruta: Polazak sa okretnice kod ZOO vrta, ulica Tadeuša Košćuška, stajanje kod Kalemegdana, Pristanište, Karadjordjeva ulica pored Železničke stanice, Nemanjina, Resavska, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra do Vukovog spomenika, Kraljice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana do Beka. Polazak: Petak, od 19h do 20h/ tura na engleskom, subota: od 15h do 16h/ tura na srpskom Vreme trajanja: 60 minuta Rezervacije: Turističko informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859 &TIC Terazije, podzemni prolaz Palate Albanija, tel. 2635-622 Program razgledanja iz tramvaja je besplatan, broj mesta je ograničen na 25 osoba.

BelGuest WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11

MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOUR

A minibus passes by the main sights of the city. Departure: in front of Balkan Hotel (Prizrenska 2), on weekdays, at 10:50 am Duration: two hours Tickets: Glob Metropoliten Tours, Makenzijeva 26 , tel. 2439-852, 2430-899, 2437-483, 2431-076 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade. com

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA MINIBUSOM

Minibus obilazi atraktivne turističke ambijentalne celine grada. Polazak: hotel Balkan (Prizrenska 2), radnim danima, 10.50 h Trajanje: 120 min Prodaja karata: Glob Metropoliten Tours, , Makenzijeva 26 , tel. 2439-852, 2430-899, 2437-483, 2431-076 www.metropoliten.com; www.travelserbiabelgrade. com Informacije: www.dtltransport.net, tel. 311 92 41; 065 377-8067 BELGRADE FROM THE AIR

BEOGRAD IZ VAZDUHA

BALLOON RIDE OVER BELGRADE

LETENJE BALONOM IZNAD BEOGRADA

Upoznajte Beograd iz drugačije perspektive i uživate u romantičnom pogledu na ušće Save u Dunav. Razgledanje Beograda iz vazduha balonom moguće je svakim danom tokom godine kada nema padavina i kada brzina vetra ne prelazi 5 m/s. Leti se do visine od 1000 m. Informacije: www.balonservis.rs tel. 062-252-067, 064-822-0408

SPECIAL TOURS SPECIJALNE TURE “RAKIA” TOUR OF BELGRADE

Tasting of five different kinds of rakia, served with appropriate snacks, in three

WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11 BelGuest

different places in Belgrade with services of a professional guide in Serbian, English, French or Italian language Departure: Upon request, from one of Rakia bars Informaton: www.rakiabar.com, tel. 32.86.119, 36.92.805 Bookings: Reservations are required 24 hours in advance . Minimum six persons, maximum 20 persons.

BEOGRADSKA RAKIJA TURA

Ukoliko želite da osetite autentučni šarm Beograda i boemsku atmosferu uz organizovanu posetu Rakia barovima, gde uz pratnju stručnog vodiča možete više da saznate o rakiji i Beogradu i probate 5 različitih rakija na tri razlicite lokacije koje se služe uz posebnu vrstu mezetluka koji pojačava i uokviruje sam ukus rakije. Polazak: Po dogovoru, iz jednog od Rakia barova. Informacije: www.rakiabar.com, tel. 32.86.119, 36.92.805 Rezervacije: obavezna je rezervacija 24 sata pre polaska . Minimum 6 osoba, maksimum 20 osoba.

OUT OF BELGRADE IZVAN BEOGRADA VOJVODINA TOUR

Get to know Belgrade from a different perspective and enjoy romantic views of the Ušće confluence of the rivers Sava and Danube. Sightseeing from a hot air balloon is available every day year-round, provided there is no rainfall and the wind speed does not exceed 5 m/s. Fly up to an altitude of 1000 metres. Information: www.balonservis.rs tel. 062-252-067, 064-822-0408

On this tour you will get to know the multicultural province of Vojvodina, vist the most significant Serbian orthodox monastery on Mt. Fruska gora, get to know a small baroque city of Sremski Karlovci, taste quality wines, visit the Petrovaradin fortress and Novi Sad. Price includes wine tasting and lunch. Route: Belgrade - monastery Krusedol - Sremski Karlovci - Petrovaradin - Novi Sad - Belgrade Departure: Each Saturday from 12 Nikola Pasic Square at 09:30 AM (min.2 persons) Language: Default is in Serbian and English. On request guidance can be in German, Russian and other languages Duration: 10 hours Price per person: EUR 45 Bookings and information: Magelan Corporation tourist agency, Head office, 23 Zmaj Jovina Street, 21000 Novi Sad, tel: + 381 21 420 680, mail and web: office@magelan.rs, www.magelan.rs/incoming, www.visitserbia.org Branch office, Belgrade, 22 Gavrila Principa Street, 11000 Belgrade, + 381 11 262 66 88

VOJVOĐANSKA TURA

Na ovoj turi upoznaćete multikulturalnu Vojvodinu, posetiti najznačajniji srpski manastir na Fruškoj gori, posetiti Sremske Karlovce, degustirati kvalitetna vina, razgledati Petrovaradinsku tvrđavu i Novi Sad. Ručak i degustacija su uračunati u cenu. Maršruta: Beograd – manastir Krušedol – Sremski Karlovci – Petrovaradin – Novi Sad - Beograd Polazak: svake subote sa Trga Nikole Pašića u 09:30 h (minimum 2 osobe) Jezik: podrazumevano srpski i engleski, uz blagovremenu najavu vođenja na nemačkom, ruskom i drugim jezicima Trajanje: 10 sati, Cena izleta po osobi: € 45 Informacije i rezervacije: Turistička agencija Magelan, Zmaj Jovina 23, Novi Sad, tel: 021 420 680, mail i web: office@magelan.rs, www.magelan.rs, www. visitserbia.org Poslovnica Beograd - Gavrila Principa 22, 011 262 66 88

JEVREMOVAC BOTANICAL GARDENS

The Jevremovac Botanical Gardens is a monument to nature and a cultural monument of the city. Along with the Institute for Botany, the garden is a teaching unit of the Belgrade Biology Faculty. The botanical gardens are home to around 1,000 species of plant and includes a 500m2 glasshouse erected way back in 1892. Informaton: www.bio.bg.ac.rs, tel. 244 847

BOTANIČKA BAŠTA JEVREMOVAC

Botanička bašta Jevremovac je spomenika prirode i spomenik kulture grada. Ona je zajedno sa Institutom za botaniku nastavna jedinica Biološkog fakulteta u Beogradu. U Botaničkoj bašti se nalazi oko 1.000 biljnih vrst, a staklena bašta od 500 kvadratnih metara podignuta je još 1892. godine. Informacije: www.bio.bg.ac.rs, tel. 244 847

BELGRADE GARDENS: ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN & BOTANICAL GARDEN JEVREMOVAC THE GARDEN OF GOOD HOPE

The Zoological Garden is located in Kalemegdan, a part of the Belgrade Fortress, Belgrade’s most important cultural and historic monument. It was founded in 1936. Along with the great variety of attractive animal residents such as the white lions, giraffes, monkeys, and the cheetah, at the Garden you’ll also see many sculptures, and three of these sculptures are specifically dedicated to the authentic heroes from the animal world. Belgrade Zoological Garden is open all year round. Informaton: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26.

VRT DOBRE NADE

Zoolški vrt se nalazi na malom Kalemegdanu, u okviru najznačajnije ambijentalne celine Beograda - Beogradske tvrđave. Utemeljen je 1936. godine. Uz veliki broj različitih i atraktivnih životinja, kao što su beli lavovi, žirafe, majmuni... Zoolški vrt je mesto na kojem ćete videti brojne skulpture, od kojih su neke posvećene autentičnim herojima iz sveta životinja. Zoolški vrt je otvoren čitave godine Informacije: www.beozoovrt.izlog.org, tel. 26-245-26

TURISTIČKA ORGANIZACIJA BEOGRADA WWW.TOB.CO.RS Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 011 2097-828 (ponedeljak – nedelja 8-22h) Knez Mihailova 6 011 3281 159 (ponedeljak - subota 9-21h) Terazije podzemni prolaz kod Palate Albanija 011 2635-622 (ponedeljak– petak 9-20h, subota i nedelja 9-16 h) Glavna železnička stanica 011 361-2732 (ponedeljak – petak 8-20h; subota i nedelja 8-16 h) Savsko pristanište, Karađorđeva b.b. (april - novembar: ponedeljak – nedelja 8-19 h) Turistički centar Zemun, Zmaj Jovina14 011 2192-094 (ponedeljak - petak 9-15 h, subota 9-13 h) Informativni centar Turističke organizacije Srbije Čika Ljubina 8/I 011 6557 127 ( ponedeljak – subota 9-21h )

BelGuest WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11

ONCE A KAFANA, ALWAYS A KAFANA

JEDNOM KAFANA, UVEK KAFANA

Kovač Restaurant was built in 1932 on the site of an old roadside blacksmiths (Kovač means ‘smith’). It always enjoyed a reputation as an excellent kafana inn and was accompanied by good luck. There is a folk belief that a smith is a wizard, so perhaps the longevity and popularity of this top national restaurant could be attributed to the magic of its name.

Restoran Kovač podignut je 1932. godine na mestu stare drumske kovačnice. Uvek je imao reputaciju vrsne kafane i pratila ga je dobra sreća. U narodu postoji verovanje da je kovač čarobnjak, pa se trajanje i popularnost ovog vrhunskog nacionalnog restorana može pripisati i magiji imena koje nosi.

he modern ambiance of this restaurant today lies on the authentic spirit of old Belgrade transformed into a beautiful and new venue. Kovač is located in a large old house. It has spacious dining rooms decorated with carefully selected and masterfully intertwined ethnic and modern decor and boasts a special treasure in the form of its garden under old linden trees, whose canopies cover the garden with heavenly shade. Kovač earned its popularity, primarily and principally, thanks to its outstanding, gourmet food. Homemade bread is baked in the restaurant kitchen, while veal and lamb are prepared traditionally under honeycomb and the preparation methods for grilled dishes remain a closely guarded secret. In the spirit of fusing, intertwining and merging ethno and modern styles, the menu reveals brand new, sophisticated combinations based on national cuisine. This culinary innovation has proved more than successful. Contemporary compositions of famous “motifs” may best explain the example of cocktails prepared with a base of domestic spirits supplemented by the additions of tested world recipes. These domestic cocktails are called Đurđina, Lazar and Baš čelik - the latter named after the hero of a famous folk fairytale. Kovač’s selection of wines is indeed remarkable. One huge wall is filled from top to bottom is filled with flagons of wines from around the world. Of course, the best Serbian wines are also presented and every day in the early afternoon excellent musicians start playing. Music completes the atmosphere of hedonism, relaxation and joie de vivre. You just come, everything else is our worry – recommend the folks at Kovač.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

oderno uređen ambijent današnjeg restorana naslonio se na autentičan duh starog Beograda i preoblikovao ga u jednu lepu i novu celinu. Kovač se nalazi u velikoj starinskoj kući, ima prostrane sale ukrašene pažljivo odabranim i majstorski isprepletanim etno i modernim dekorom, a njegova posebna dragocenost je bašta pod starim lipama, koje svojim krošnjama prave rajski hlad. Svoju popularnost Kovač je pre svega i iznad svega stekao svojom izvanrednom, gurmanskom hranom. U kuhinji restorana peče se domaći hleb, teletina i jagnjetina spremaju se ispod sača, a način pripreme specijaliteta s roštilja čuva se kao tajna. U duhu preplitanja, prožimanja i spajanja etno i modernog stila, na jelovniku možete naći sasvim nove, sofisticirane kombinacije utemeljene na nacionalnoj kuhinji. Ova kulinarska inovacija više je nego uspela. Savremeno komponovanje poznatih motiva možda ćemo vam najbolje dočarati na primeru koktela koji se prave od nacionalnih pića kao osnove, sa dodacima svetski oprobanih receptura. Domaći kokteli zovu se Đurđina, Lazar i Baš čelik... Izbor vina u Kovaču doslovno je veličanstven. INFO: Jedan ogroman zid je od dna do vrha ispunjen Restaurant Kovač buteljkama vina iz čitavog sveta. Naravno, zasBulevar oslobođenja 221 tupljena su i najbolja srpska vina, a svakog dana Belgrade u rano popodne počinje svirka vrsnih muzičara. Tel: 011/2462-343 Muzika upotpunjuje atmosferu opuštanja i Mob tel: 063/415-215 životne radosti. www.kovacgroup.com Vi dođite, sve ostalo je naša briga, poručuju ukućani Kovača.

RESTAURANT ŠARAN

RESTORAN ŠARAN

MODERN FISHERMAN’S SPIRIT MODERAN ALASKI DUH It was more than a century ago that Zemun fisherman Vićentije Vukotic opened a kafana inn on the ground floor of his lovely home on the banks of the Danube. Danube fishermen stepped straight out of their boats and came to Vićentije’s inn to offer their freshly caught fish. This tradition is still nurtured today by Restaurant Šaran (Carp), while keeping the secret of the famous fish stew of its founder.

Pre više od jednog veka zemunski alas Vićentije Vukotić je u prizemlju svoje ljupke kuće na obali Dunava otvorio kafanu. Ona se odmah pročula po ukusnoj ribljoj čorbi. Dunavski alasi su pravo iz svojih čamaca najpre dolazili u Vićentijevu kafanu da ponude svoju tek ulovljenu ribu. Ovu tradiciju i danas neguje restoran Šaran, a čuva i tajnu čuvene riblje čorbe svog osnivača.

aran is an exclusive four-star restaurant. Following the route of bars along the riverbank leads to this modern restaurant, which brings together fish specialities, good wine and company and is a place deeply imbued with the spirit of the city. To come to Zemun and not visit Šaran is like not having come to Zemun at all. Inside the old house is a tastefully furnished restaurant. Lot of details, pots, a bulging antique stove converted into a fire hearth, fish floating in warm colours on the walls – this is only a brief description of the environment. However, the restaurant has primarily gained prominence because of its excellent cuisine, which is given an indelible stamp of tradition. As such, on the menu you will find fish pâté made in an old fisherman’s style or perch prepared Smederevo style. In addition to being offered old-fashioned dishes, here you are also awaited by the modern combinations created by excellent young chefs Đuro Zorić and Nenad Lučić. In shaping its cultured fish specialities, Šaran went a step further by offering the flavours and freshness of the sea and marine riches. On Šaran’s wine rack you will find expertly selected wines from around the world. With delicious meals, drinks, respectable service and relaxed atmosphere, Šaran has added a note and a song. Namely, every evening the restaurant hosts excellent tamburitza orchestras and during the warmer seasons diners can enjoy the garden and terrace overlooking the Danube. Welcome, Restaurant Šaran is here for you, insists the restaurant’s industrious and ambitious team.

aran je ekskluzivan restoran sa četiri zvezdice. Prošavši put od krčme na obali reke do modernog restorana u kojem se sastaju ljubitelji ribljih specijaliteta, dobrog vina i društva, ovo mesto je duboko prožeto duhom grada. Doći u Zemun, a ne svratiti u Šaran, isto je kao da niste bili u Zemunu. U unutrašnjosti starinske kuće nalazi se restoran opremljen sa ukusom. Mnoštvo detalja, kotlići, trbušasta starinska peć pretvorena u kamin, ribice koje plove po toplo obojenim zidovima – samo su sažet opis ambijenta. Međutim, restoran je zauzeo primat pre svega zbog svojevrsne kuhinje kojoj snažan pečat daje tradicija. Tako na jelovniku možete naći riblju pašteta na način starih alasa ili smuđa na smederevski način. Uz ponudu starinskih jela, ovde vas očekuju i moderne kombinacije – dela vrsnih mladih kuvara – Đure Zorića i Nenada Lučića. U oblikovanju kulture specijaliteta od ribe Šaran je otišao i korak dalje i nudi ukuse i svežinu mora i morskih blaga. Na vinskim policama naći ćete znalački odabrana vina iz svih krajeva sveta. Ukusnim jelima, piću, vrhunskoj usluzi i INFO: opuštenoj atmosferi Šaran je dodao i note i Restaurant Šaran, pesmu. Svake večeri u restoranu sviraju vrsni Kej oslobođenja 53, tamburaški orkestri. A tokom toplih sezona Zemun možete uživati u bašti i terasi s pogledom na Telephone reservations: Dunav. Dobro nam došli, restoran Šaran je tu 011/2618-235 zbog vas, poručuje vredan i ambiciozan tim 069/2618-235 restorana. www.saran.co.rs

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

R E S T A U R A N T

S T A R O

O G N J I Š T E

( O L D

H E A R T H )

GATHERING POINT

MESTO OKUPLJANJA

he symbol of the home – its fire hearth, has been a gathering point for Serbian people since ancient times; the heart of the family, the motive one fights for. Unfortunately, over recent decades of wars and the redrawing of borders, many traditional hearths have been abandoned; lost, but not forgotten. However, one family hearth has radiated with its warmth and homely atmosphere since last summer, enticing all those who find relaxation, comfort and convenience a necessary break from the accelerating pace of the life we live. At Staro ognjište Restaurant everything is somehow appropriate to its name: hospitable and prosperous. Here every guest is greeted with a smile and one of the hosts is always on hand to welcome you, listen to you, advise you and bid you farewell. The menu is also hospitable and rich – in terms of both the taste and quantity of food. As in any respectable home, everything a guest might consider important is taken into account: t he breakfast, served with free coffee, tea and yogurt until 1pm, the lent for those observing religious fasting menu, the daily menu offering great snacks at more than reasonable prices, and the Friday treat of beans served free of charge. Speaking from experience, we advise you to consult the host or waiter about your choice of specialities. A portion of chicken a la Staro ognjište, turkey with ‘mlinci’ (pasta tatters) and smoked cheese or a local shepherd’s lunch is quite enough for two or even three people. And along with the house speciality for free, the restaurant offers a side dish (vegetables) and baked jacket potatoes with garlic. The home that houses Staro ognjište was built to be both hospitable and prosperous. Step by step, with details collected lovingly - old photographs, forgotten objects etc. – the fire hearth is still there, in the hall that is often used for larger gatherings, birth celebrations, birthdays, graduation parties, wedding celebrations, anniversaries etc. It offers ambience that radiates with warmth, domestic cuisine and an appropriate wine list. With selected wines from a local wine cellar and some foreign ones for those who may prefer a drink from afar, the house wine comes from the Radovanović wine cellar. Over the weekend, on Fridays or Saturdays, live music old and original folk tunes – complete the atmosphere. Here every guest feels like they are at home. And that really is a pleasant feeling.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

imbol kuće – ognjište, od davnina je u srpskom narodu mesto okupljanja, srce porodice, motiv za koji se bori. Mnoga ognjišta su, nažalost, poslednjih decenija ratova i prekrajanja granica napuštena, izgubljena, ali ne i zaboravljena. Jedno ognjište od prošlog leta isijava toplinom i domaćom atmosferom, priziva sve one kojima su opuštenost, prijatnost, lagodnost potrebna stanka u sve bržim danima koje živimo. A u restoranu Staro ognjište sve nekako odgovara opisu – domaćinsko. Tu se svaki gost pozdravlja osmehom, neko od domaćina je uvek tu da sačeka, sasluša, posavetuje, isprati… Domaćinski je sastavljen i meni – sa ukusom i količinom izabranih jela. Kao i u svakoj kući koja drži do sebe, ovde se vodilo računa o svemu što bi gostu moglo da bude važno: o doručku, uz koji se do 13 sati poslužuju besplatna kafa, čaj i jogurt, o posnom meniju, dnevnom meniju, koji po više nego pristojnim cenama nude izvrsne zalogaje, a INFO: Restaurant Staro ognjište petkom je pasulj besplatan. Govoreći iz iskustva, savetujemo vam da se oko izbora nekog od (Old Hearth) specijaliteta kuće posavetujete sa domaćinom Dr Ivana Ribara 120a ili konobarom. Porcija piletine Staro ognjište, Belgrade mlinaca sa ćuretinom i dimljenim sirom ili pastir011 22 88 120 skog ručka sasvim je dovoljna za dve ili čak tri 011 22 88 123 osobe. A uz specijalitete kuće služi se i besplatan garnir, zapečeni krompir u ljusci sa belim lukom. I kuća u kojoj je Staro ognjište zidana je domaćinski. Korak po korak, s ljubavlju sakupljenim detaljima, starim fotografijama, zaboravljenim predmetima… I ognjište je tu, u sali koja se često koristi za veća okupljanja, proslave rođenja, rođendana, diploma, brakova, godišnjica… Ambijentu koji odiše toplinom odgovara i karta pića. Uz izabrana vina domaćih podruma, poneko strano – ko želi, vino kuće dolazi iz podruma Radovanović. Tokom vikenda, petkom ili subotom, živa muzika starogradskih ili izvornih n arodnih melodija zaokružuje atmosferu. Ovde se svaki gost oseća kao da je na svom ognjištu. I to je zaista prijatan osećaj.

‫ﻥﻱﺭﺵﻉﻭ ﺓﻉﺏﺱ‬ Dvacet sedm Zeven en twintig Tjuesyvogtyve Tjugoyvå Kaksikymmentä seitsemän Syv og tyve Dwadzieścia siedem Twenty seven Vingt-sept

If You came to Belgrade because of us, You are not here by mistake !

Huszonthét Venti sette Двадцять сім Vinte e sete Двадцать семь Veintisiete Yirmi yedi Sedemindvajset Dvadsať sedem Двадесет седем Siebenundzwanzig Douăzeci şi şapte είκοσι επτά ‫עבשו םירשע‬

Live Music on Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays

Restaurant -gallery 27 Istarska 27 11000 Belgrade, Serbia Tel: +381(0) 11 2651-831 Fax: +381(0) 11 3692-079 www.restoran27.com i27@eunet.rs

P A

L G

JaiThai

A WELLNESS METROPOLIS Belgrade is known around the world as a capital of nightlife and metropolis of entertainment. In recent years, though, dozens of wellness, spa and fitness centres have opened in Belgrade, keeping pace with modern trends. Their offer is diverse, ranging from traditional Eastern massages, through all types of saunas, hydro massage and baths from Hollywood scenes, to treatments based on the traditions of ancient Rome...

ere we present a selection of the city’s offer, through which you can rediscover Belgrade as a metropolis of wellness.

LAGO DI SPA This centre is known publicly for having the richest offer in the Balkans and, in terms of area, Lago di Spa is also the city’s largest spa centre. What separates it from the competition are its new facilities, such as a salt cave (it is believed that one treatment replaces a four-day stay at the seaside). A wide selection of massages also catches the eye. In addition to classical massages, there is a Hawaiian massage, aromatherapy, massage

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

with hot volcanic stones and semi-precious stones, traditional Thai massage and Indian Ayurveda. An interesting part of this centre’s offer are its baths: you can opt for a bath of flowers, beer, green tea, wine and, certainly the most interesting, a bath in ass’s milk – as was regularly practiced by Roman empresses. MY SPA My Spa is a new, exclusive centre offering a complete range of wellness services and equipped with state-of-the-art sauna, Turkish bath, swimming pool etc. The team and trainers at the My Spa centre base their offer on an individual approach: each

individual is provided with a programme that will most effectively improve his or her physical and mental abilities. This centre also offers complete BEAuTY services in its hair and beauty salon. With world-recognised cosmetics in marine cosmetology – Thalgo, it offers a spectrum of treatments for face and body. My Spa also offers fitness services, with a gym equipped with the latest and most advanced machines and with professional trainers always on hand. HEAVENLY, SWEET SPA Spa Paradiso is unique in terms of its offer and range of treatments and body treatments for

SANUS PER AQUAM Thermal baths have existed since time immemorial. Some of the earliest accounts of bathing in medicinal springs come from ancient Greece. The Greeks began to build bathrooms, which have remained the basis of spa procedures ever since. They used small tubs, sinks and vessels for washing the feet. The earliest archaeological discoveries of bathrooms are in the palace complex at Knossos and the luxurious alabaster tubs dug at Santorini. Following the example of Greece, Roman baths became major centres for social activities, hygiene and relaxation. As the Roman Empire expanded, the idea of public bathrooms reached all parts of the Mediterranean, Europe and North Africa. Lying in water will reduce the weight of your body and in the pearl bath you will feel like the force of gravity does not affect you – you’ll be in a sort of state of weightlessness. JAI THAI –TEMPLE OF THAI MASSAGE In an environment of Eastern luxury “our visitors will achieve a dazzling look that emerges from inner well-being,” say the masters of this ancient art. One of the oldest therapies in the world, with a 2,500year tradition, is the traditional Thai massage. This type of massage is also called Yoga for the lazy. Jai Thai packages with attractive names are also interesting: the Heart of Thailand, Honeymoon, the Glamour of the East etc. There are also individual treatments: Water, Fire, Air, Harmony and Exclusive. Jai Thai has two salons in the city, one of which is located within Hotel Continental.

ANCIENT ROMAN BATHING The Romans would begin bathing with a workout in the palestra, or courtyard. This would be followed by treatments in areas with different temperatures: first in the tepidarium, the largest and most luxurious chamber, where one would stay for about an hour. Here scented oils would be rubbed into the body. Next they would move on to the caldarium, which had separate sections with water heated to different temperatures, and then the laconicum room, which was the warmest room – where massage was practiced, along with skin peeling with a metal Strigil. The treatment would be finished with a short dip in the frigidarium – a cold water pool.

WELLNESS LAND & CENTRE FOR THE SENSES Wellness Land is an exclusive recreation, relaxation and revitalisation complex; the first of its kind in Belgrade. Spanning more than a thousand square metres, the centre combines Eastern philosophy, Oriental mysticism and Western techniques and technology, with ancient and modern treatments. Wellness Land is specific because it also offers medical rehabilitation services. Located on Slavija Square in the city centre, it is a “corner which restores your vitality, endur-

ance, good humour, will and strength to work...” – according to one journalist’s review of the Sense Spa Centre. This is a place for care and body shaping, where traditional beauty treatments are used in combination with modern technical achievements. The programmes are individual and one of the main ones is called Dermalife. SPA LODGINGS The Monteko Spa lodgings is located in Ostružnica near Belgrade. Monteko is also the name of the cosmetics brand that has existed for fifteen years and produces cosmetics products based on environmentally-friendly technology. Monteko Spa lodgings and beauty products place themselves in the context of service to nature: “In our home you will enjoy an abundance of natural fragrances, essential oils, cedar wood in the sauna, healthy and delicious food, flavoured steam etc.” – according to the website of this specialised dormitory spa. There are more spa centres in the city worthy of attention: Secretgarden Spa and Spa Intimo, while certain hotels also have offers worth mentioning: Club Olympus Fitness Centre & Spa, located at the Hyatt Regency Hotel, Five Elements Beauty & Spa, located in the LifeDesign hotel. Wellness Club Saruna offers a wide range of spa and wellness programmes at the Continental Hotel, Holliday Inn Hotel, Hotel Park and at Ada Ciganlija, in Zemun and at Šumice. BelGuest

weight loss, anti-cellulite treatment programmes and tightening treatments. In addition to specific massages, the offer also includes facial care, including hand-lifting. The “sweetest” part of the offer at the Sweet Spa centre is the hydro massage in a pearl tub. This treatment includes several procedures at once: hydrotherapy, ozone therapy and aromatherapy.

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

WELLNESS METROPOLA

Beograd je u svetu poznat kao prestonica noćnog života i metropola dobre zabave. Poslednjih godina otvoreno je na desetine wellness, spa i fitness centara, koji idu u korak sa savremenim kretanjima. Njihova ponuda je raznolika – od tradicionalnih istočnjačkih masaža, svih tipova sauna, hidromasaža, kupki iz holivudskih scenarija, tretmana zasnovanih na tradiciji starog Rima...

redstavlajmo vam odabrani deo ponude u kojoj možete otkriti Beograd i kao svojevrsnu metropolu wellnessa.

LAGO DI SPA Ovaj centar se u javnosti pročuo kao mesto koje ima najbogatiji sadržaj na Balkanu. Po površini, Lago di Spa je i najveći centar u gradu. Ono što ga izdvaja jesu novi sadržaji, na primer Slana pećina. Smatra se da jedan tretman u njoj zamenjuje četiri dana boravka na moru. Pažnju privlači i veliki izbor masaža. Pored klasičnih, tu su i havajska, aromaterapija, masaža toplim vulkanskim i poludragim

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

kamenjem, tradicionalna tajlandska masaža i indijska Ayurveda. Zanimljiv deo ponude ovog centra predstavljaju kupke. Možete odabrati kupku od cveća, piva, zelenog čaja, vina, a svakako je najzanimljivije kupanje u magarčinom mleku, koje su redovno upražnjavale rimske carice. MY SPA My Spa je nedavno otvoren ekskluzivni centar, koji nudi spektar wellness usluga i opremljen je najsavremenijom saunom, turskim kupatilom, bazenom… Tim stručnjaka i trenera okupljenih u My Spa centru zasniva svoju ponudu na individualnom pristupu:

za svakog ponaosob određuje se program koji će najuspešnije unaprediti njegove fizičke i mentalne sposobnosti. Taj centar nudi i kompletne beauty usluge u frizerskom i kozmetičkom salonu. Sa svetski priznatom kozmetikom u oblasti morske kozmetologije – Thalgo, pruža više tretmana za lice i telo. My Spa nudi i fitness usluge, teretana je opremljena najnovijim i najsavremenijim spravama, a profesionalni treneri stalno vam stoje na usluzi. RAJSKI I SLATKI SPA Spa Paradiso izdavaja se ponudom tretmana za telo i tretmana za mršavljenja, anticelulit programa

i tretmana za zatezanje. Pored specificnih masaža, u ponudi se nalaze i nega lica, od kojih se izdvaja ručni lifting. u Sweet Spa centru „najslađi“ deo ponude je hidromasaža u bisernoj kadi. Taj tretman obuhvata nekoliko postupaka u jednom: hidroterapiju, ozonoterapiju i aromaterapiju. Boravak u vodi smanjiće težinu vašeg tela, a u bisernoj kadi ćete se osećati kao da ste izvan dejstva sile gravitacije – u svojevrsnom bestežinskom stanju.

privlačne nazive – Srce Tajlanda, Medeni mesec, Glamur istoka... u ponudi su i pojednačni tretmani, koji nose nazive: Voda, Vatra, Vazduh, Harmonija i Exclusive. Jai Tai ima dva salona u gradu, od kojih se jedan nalazi u hotelu Continental. ZEMLJA DOBROBITI I CENTAR ZA ČULA Wellness Land je ekskluzivni kompleks za rekreaciju, relaksaciju i revitalizaciju, prvi te vrste u Beogradu. na površini većoj od hiljadu kvadrata primenjuju se sadržaji koji ujedinjuju filozofiju Istoka, mistiku Orijenta, tehniku i tehnologiju Zapada, stare i moderne tretmane. Wellness Land je specifičan i po tome što nudi i usluge medicinske rehabilitacije. na Slaviji, u centru grada, postoji „kutak u kome vraćate vitalnost, izdržljivost, dobro raspoloženje, volju i snagu za rad...“, zapisano je u jednoj novinskoj kritici Spa Sense centra. To je mesto za negu i oblikovanje tela, na kojem se koriste tradicionalni tretmani za lepotu, u kombinaciji s modernim tehničkim dostignućima. Programi su individualni. Jedan od nosećih zove se Dermalife.

SPA KONAK u blizini Beograda, u Ostružnici, nalazi se Monteko Spa konak. Monteko je i ime kozmetičkog brenda koji postoji već petnaest godina i koji proizvodi kozmetička preparate na bazi ekološke tehnologije. Monteko Spa konak i kozmetički proizvodi sebe postavljaju u kontekst službe prirodi: „u našoj kući boravićete u izobilju prirodnih mirisa, etarskih ulja, kedrovine u sauni, zdrave i ukusne hrane, aromatizovane pare...“, zapisano je na Internet prezentaciji ovog specijalizovanog konaka. u gradu postoji još spa centara vrednih pažanje: Secretgarden Spa, Spa Intimo, a pojedini hoteli, takođe, imaju ponudu vrednu spomena: Klub Olympus Fitness centar & Spa, smešten je u Hyatt Regency hotelu, Five Elements Beuty&Spa nalazi se u LifeDesign hotelu. u hotelima Continental, Holliday Inn, Hotel Park, kao i na Adi Ciganliji, Zemunu i Šumicama po svojoj širokoj ponudi izdvaja se Wellnes Club Saruna, koji nudi širok spektar spa i wellness programa. BelGuest

KUPANJE STARIH RIMLJANA Rimljani bi kupanje otpočinjali razgibavanjem u palestri. Zatim je sledio tretman u prostorijama različite temperature: najpre u tepidarijumu, najvećoj i najluksuznijoj odaji, u kojoj se ostajalo oko sat vremena. U tepidarijumu su u telo utrljalavana mirisna uljja. Sledeći je caldarium, koji je imao posebne odeljke s vodom ugrejanom na različite temperature, a potom je sledio boravak u laconicumu, koji je bio najtoplija prostorija i u kojoj su se praktikovali masaža i piling kože metalnim strigilom. Tretman je završavan kratkim ulaskom u frigidarium – bazen s hladnom vodom. Lago di Spa – Salt Cave JAI TAI - HRAM TAJLANDSKE MASAŽE u ambijentu istočanjačkog luksuza „naši posetioci će postići blistav izgled, koji izranja iz unutrašnjeg blagostanja“, kažu za sebe majstori te drevne umetnosti. Jedna od najstarijih terapija na svetu, sa 2.500 godina dugom tradicijom jeste tradicionalna tajlandska masaža. Taj tip masaže se naziva i joga za lenje. Zanimljivi su i Jai Thai paketi, koji nose SANUS PER AQUAM Termalna kupatila postoje još od pamtiveka. Neki od najranijih opisa kupanja na lekovitim izvorima dolaze iz stare Grčke. Grci su počeli sa izgradnjom kupatila, što je i danas osnova za spa procedure. Koristili su male kade, umivaonike i posude za pranje stopala. Najranija arheološka otkrića su kupatila u kompleksu palata na Knososu i luksuzne alabaster kadice iskopane na Santoriniju. Po ugledu na Grčku, rimska kupatila su postala glavni centar za socijalne aktivnosti, higjenu i opuštanje. Kako se Rimsko carstvo širilo, ideja o javnim kupatilima doprla je u sve delove Mediteran, Evrope i Severne Afrike.

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

SPA CEnTRE – MY SPA

SPA CEnTAR – MY SPA

MY HEALTH, BEAUTY & GOOD SHAPE

MOJE ZDRAVLJE, LEPOTA I KONDICIJA

My Spa is a new, exclusive spa centre in our city. Situated in an elite location - a quiet area of Dedinje near the ‘Beli Dvor’ Royal Palace - My Spa offers a complete range of wellness services and is equipped with a state-of-the-art sauna, Turkish bath, swimming pool etc.Here you will find everything you need to fully restore spirit, body and beauty.

My Spa je novi, ekskluzivni spa centar u našem gradu. Nalazi se na elitnoj lokaciji, u mirnom delu Dedinja, u blizini Belog dvora. My spa vam nudi kompletan spektar wellness usluga i opremljen je najsavremenijom saunom, turskim kupatilom, bazenom… U njemu ćete pronaći sve što je potrebno za potpunu obnovu duha, tela i lepote.

ay by day, the modern way of life quietly generates tension within z dana u dan moderni način života neprimetno taloži napetost u nama i us, leaving its mark on both our appearance and our whole body. ostavlja trag na našoj spoljašnjosti i u čitavom organizmu. Tim školovanih The team of trained specialists, counsellors and trainers at My Spa centre stručnjaka, savetnika i trenera okupljenih u My Spa centru poručuje: – say: We will do everything to make your body work smoothly and your učinićemo sve da vaš organizam radi besprekorno i da vaša lepota dođe do izrabeauty shines through. We believe that every human is unique and we za. Mi verujemo da je svaki čovek jedinstven i umemo da za svakog ponaosob know how to determine those delicate measures of the programme that odredimo delikatnu meru programa, koji će unaprediti vaše fizičke i mentalne will improve the physical and mental abilities of each individual. That’s sposobnosti. Zato smo i prisvojnu imenicu my odabrali za ime centra. why we chose the possessive pronoun “my” for the name of the centre. Spa je skraćenica od latinskog izraza „sanus per aquam“, što znači da se Spa is an abbreviation of the Latin phrase “sanus per aquam” meaning health zdravlje čuva vodom. Parno kupatilo, bazen i sauna, uz vešte ruke masera, čine saved through water. A steam bath, swimming pool and sauna, coupled with a idealnu kombinaciju za uspostavljanje harmonije duha i tela. uz to, mi ćemo skilful hand massage, make the ideal combination to establish harmony of body vam preporučiti i tip masaže koja će vam najviše prijati. and soul. In addition, we will recommend a specific massage that will best fit you. Pored HEALTHY usluga, nudimo i kompletne BEAuTY usluge u našem frizIn addition to HEALTH services, we offer complete BEAuTY services at our hair and erskom i kozmetičkom salonu. Sa svetski priznatom kozmetikom u oblasti beauty salon. With world-recognised cosmetics in marine cosmemorske kozmetologije THALGO pružamo vam spektar tretmana za INFO tology, THALGO, we offer a range of treatments for your face and lice i telo. Zdravstvena i korektivna kozmetika, depilacije, manikir, MY SPA body. Health and corrective cosmetics, waxing, manicure, pedipedikir, frizerske usluge finalni su dodir na vašu negovanost i Baje Pivljanina 45, cure, beauty care represent the final touch to your care and beauty. lepotu. 11000 Beograd To help your body attain its full form and shape, you can use our Da bi vaše telo dostiglo potpunu formu i kondiciju, možete tel.: 011 / 367 64 64 FITnESS services. The gym is equipped with the latest and most koristiti i naše FITnESS usluge. Teretana je opremljena najnovijim i email:office@my-spa.rs advanced TECHnOGYM devices and our professional trainers are najsavremenijim TEHnOGYM spravama, a naši profesionalni treneri www.my-spa.rs always at service. vam neprestano stoje na usluzi. The following messages are taken from the guestbook of My u knjizi utisaka My Spa između ostalog je zapisano: „Ovo je jedan Spa: “This is one of the most modern spa centres in Europe,”“Beautiful, modern, od najmodernijih Spa centara u Evropi!“ „Prelepo, moderno, plus savršeno plus perfectly pleasant staff,” “This is the best spa that I’ve ever been to. Well ljubazno osoblje!“ „Ovo je najbolji spa centar u kome sam bila. Svaka čast!“ done!” We also invite you to sign our guestbook. Pozivamo vas da se i vi upišete u knjigu utisaka. BelGuest BelGuest

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

DISCOVER SERBIA

On the upcoming pages of BelGuest you will discover selected destinations of Central Serbia and Vojvodina. The Tourism Organisation of Novi Sad presents an unusual tour with the theme of the lives of prominent ladies of Novi Sad. The Tourism Organisation of Serbia has chosen to present the treasures kept by the Museum of Vojvodina, the town of Apatin, as a prospective tourist destination on the Danube, and Krusevac, a beautiful city in the middle of the country that has proven important to the identity and culture of the entire Serbian nation. The Tourism Organisation of the City of Niš presents you with advice on how to spend three full, ideal days in the city. Within the Mosaic of Serbia you will also discover excursion offers around Serbia. We hope that you will hit the road with the arrival of the first sunny days.

UPOZNAJTE SRBIJU

Na narednim stranicama BelGuesta upoznaćete odabrane destinacije Srbije i Vojvodine. Turistička organizacija Novog Sada predstavlja se neobičnom turom čiji motiv su životi znamenitih Novosađanki. Turistička organizacija Srbije odabrala je da predstavi blaga koje čuva muzej Vojvodine, Apatin kao prosperitetnu turističku destinaciju na Dunavu i Kruševac, lep grad u središtu zemlje, koji je značajan za identitet i kulturu čitavog srpskog naroda. Turistička organizacija Niša pokazuje vam kako u gradu možete provesti tri ispunjena, idealna dana. U Mozaiku Srbije dobićete i ponudu izleta po Srbiji. Mi se nadamo da ćete s prvim lepim danima krenuti na put.

CITY BREAK - NOVI SAD

THE CITY FROM A FEMALE PERSPECTIVE The Tourism Organisation of Novi Sad is one of the few in the country providing a rather distinctive tour within its city sightseeing offer: a mosaic story of the biographies of 12 famous women who lived in Novi Sad. While walking down selected city areas that are symbolically or directly related to these gifted women, you will become familiar with their work and gain a new and different perspective on city life.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

he reader of this text, and hopefully guestto-be of Novi Sad, will take the route down memory lane of the powerful and talented women of Novi Sad. These intelligent and slightly overlooked women provoke a sense of respect and each of these inimitable personalities will take you into the urban flesh of the city; to the places intertwined with their lives. You can choose to start the tour with any of them – maybe the first should be the one closest to your liking – and we shall begin the story with Jovanka Stojković, an exquisite 19th century pianist and composer. THE CENTURY’S TOP FEMALE PIANIST This talented musician completed her piano studies under professors Liszt and Dreyschock. Franz Liszt called Jovanka “the century’s top female pianist”. With her virtuosity she powerfully entered the musical life of Novi Sad during the 1870s. It was a time of strong patriotism, when culture was also applauded. Jovanka was muse to Jovan Subotić and Laza Kostić. “In May this year a nightingale appeared in Serbian groves...”, they wrote of her. Keen to further her education, Jovanka studied solo singing in Italy, where she also performed as a concert singer and tried her hand at composing. The time and work of Jovanka Stojković leads us to a Roman Catholic Church named Mary. This church contains a concert organ that represents a symbolic link with her. Together with Novi Sad City Hall and the monument to Svetozar Miletić, the church named Mary forms the remarkable architectural unity of the city’s Liberty Square.

Jovanka Stojković

Berček Eržebet

WOMAN WRITER INSPIRED BY VOJVODINA Erzsébet Börcsök’s prose work ranked her among the group of the most important Yugoslav Hungarian writers. Inspired by her region, the common life of Serbs and Hungarians, as well as the position of women, were the main topics of her prose. Her major works are considered as the novella Vándor Nišavánál (Traveller on the Nišava) and the novel A végtelen fal (An Endless Wall). She wrote between the two world wars. Today a street in the city carries her name, though it is not in the city centre. You will find the connection between her and the city in the Catholic Churchyard – a harmonious ambience dominated by the baroqueclassicist building of the Catholic Parish Church. The Catholic Churchyard is also home to the Culture Centre of Novi Sad - a venue for different, classic and alternative events. A SKILFUL WOMAN ORATOR A child from prominent Greek-Tsintsar family Polit-Desančić, Savka Subotić grew up tp become a fighter for women’s rights. She was the first president of the Serbian National Women’s Alliance and the Circle of Serbian Sisters. She was a very well educated woman and defiantly outspoken. She will remain remembered for her wonderful speech at the lecture “Women in the East and the West”, held in Vienna. She founded and successfully implemented a programme for the economic empowerment of rural women. The memory of this woman takes us to Grčkoškolska (Greek School) Street and

Savka Subotić

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Anica Savić Rebac the Greek school. Savka’s son, Dejan Subotić, later became a Russian governor of Manchuria and was the most famous pupil of this school. AN UNRIVALLED FEMALE INTELLECTUAL Anica Savić-Rebac was a prodigy: at the age of twelve she was already translating Byron. She graduated classical philology in Vienna and defended her doctoral dissertation “Pre-Plato Erotology” at the University of Belgrade. She was engaged in scientific and academic work, translated the verses of Lucretius from Latin and also Njegoš’s Light of Microcosm (Luča mikrokozma) into English. She remains remembered as one of the most intellectually powerful women in history. Her childhood was marked by a significant circle of intellectuals gathered around Matica Srpska, which was then located in the building of Platoneum. You will find an urban link with her in a building from the 18th century that itself has a biography worthy of attention. ENGAGED FEMALE EDITOR Another fighter for women’s rights was Milica Tomić, writer, editor and owner of the most read women’s magazine Žena (Woman). The daughter of a famous father, Svetozar Miletić, and wife of well-known politician Jaša Tomić, she herself also started participating in the political life of Vojvodina early. Milica devoted her life to editing the magazine Žena; publishing articles themed with the education of female children, women’s societies, the history of the women’s movement in Europe etc. She lived at 14 Dunavska Street - one of the oldest and most picturesque streets in the city. Colourful single-storey façades bear the stamp of nobility of this bygone time. Today the street is dominated by commercial and hospitality facilities

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Milica Tomić that are slowly erasing the traces of the past. SOCIALIST SISTERS Milica and Anka Ninković can be considered as the city’s first feminists. They are also the first women to become actively involved in the political life of Serbia by joining the socialist movement of Svetozar Marković. They lived a life of harmony with the ideas they believed in: fighting for female emancipation. Both of them completed academic teaching studies in Zurich and tried to open the first private higher school for girls in Kragujevac. Today there is a street that bears their name in the vicinity of the Novi Sad Fair. A HUMANE SUFFERER Jelena Kon established the Humanitarian Society “Bread Crust” (Kora hleba) and children’s day care and counselling during the severe economic crisis of 1925. In order to collect donations she organised numerous concerts which featured, among others, Bronislaw Huberman and Arthur Rubinstein. During the terrible Hungarian occupation and the infamous raid of 1942, she was arrested as a Jewess, tortured, murdered and thrown into the River Danube along with a great number of Novi Sad residents. Her place of spiritual stimulation was the Synagogue. This harmonious architectural structure was built in the Hungarian Secessionist style and includes a synagogue, church community and Jewish school. FORGOTTEN FEMALE ARTIST Milka Marković, actress and pioneering first woman director, studied and advanced her education in Vienna, Munich, Prague, Dresden, Berlin, Rome and elsewhere. She was the leading and most educated actress of her time. Her work at the

Milica & Anka Ninković Serbian National Theatre began in 1885 and continued until her death. She directed a piece called Love (Ljubav) in 1911 and was awarded the Saint Sava Medal for her artistic work. She spent her old age in poverty, forgotten and alone. The place of memory for this great artist is certainly Novi Sad’s Serbian National Theatre. THE BIGGEST SERBIAN WOMAN BENEFACTOR Marija Popović-Trandafil came from a prominent family and married wealthy merchant Jovan Trandafil, who quickly doubled his initial wealth. Together, Marija and Jovan set up a fund for the education of poor gifted children. After her husband’s death she acquired equity and converted it to different legacies, with the total value reaching the sum of 700,000 Hungarian forints. She established funds for student scholarships , the marrying of poor girls and serving widows, as well as for those having suffered harm and the weak. Her most important legacy, though, was the Institute for Orthodox Orphans. This building is today home to Matica Srpska, Serbia’s oldest cultural institution, which has a collection of portraits of famous people its rich fund, including a portrait of her. The name of this selfless woman is given to he square in front of the Matica Srpska building. She was buried in Nikolayevskaya Church, which she had restored from the ground up during her lifetime. LEADER OF CURSED POETS Educated and talented poet Milica StojadinovićSrpkinja was tied to Fruška Gora Mountain through her poetry and her heart. Contemporary critics called her a leader of the pleiad of cursed Serbian poets. She translated the works of Balzac, Goethe and Frankl. As an associate of great language

Jelena Kon

Milka Marković

reformer Vuk Karadžić, she collected folk songs. She co-operated with a great number of magazines and was the first female war correspondent. She died in Belgrade, completely forgotten and in complete misery. A literary prize has since been established in her honour. One street in a newer part of the city bears her name, while her works are kept in the archives of Matica Srpska.

ate and wife, Mileva Marić.” And while discussions about her actual contribution to science are underway, the city has honoured its great citizen with the University of Novi Sad having established an award and symposium in her honour. There is also one street that bears her name, while the Women’s Studies and Research centre is also named after her.

WOMAN AHEAD OF HER TIME Mileva Marić-Einstein, a gifted mathematician and Albert Einstein’s first wife, was the first Serbian woman to study at the Higher Polytechnic School in Zurich, where she met her future husband. Following their divorce, Mileva turned to family life. Her parents’ house is located at 20 Kisačka Street. The following is written on a plaque adorning the house: “Here lived Albert Einstein, creator of the theory of relativity, and his research associ-

WRITER OF LOST WORLDS Writer, literary critic, art historian, teacher, journalist, librarian, scientist – these are all professions associated with Erzsebet Juhasz. Her fiction explores the causes and consequences of the loss of traditional values on a personal and social level. In her works she revived the lost world of a bourgeois Bačka family from the provincial milieu. She was awarded the Ervin Sinko Award in recognition of her literary works.

Milica Stojadinović ‘Srpkinja’

Mileva Marić Einstein

Marija Popović ‘Trandafil’ WOMEN’S STUDIES The author of the tourism concept and programme Novi Sad from a female perspective is Gordana Stojaković, a graduate tourismologist. Gordana leads a broader project entitled “Famous Women of Novi Sad” within the Mileva Marić Einstein Women’s Studies and Research Centre,. The tourist map of Novi Sad from a female perspective was published in an interactive window of the Tourist Information Centre and on the website of the Women’s Studies and Research Centre. The visual form of the map was created by Mirjana Isakov. BelGuest in co-operation WitH Jelena ilić and Gordana stoJaković

Juhas Eržebet

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Cover page of the tourist map, authored by Mirjana Isakov

CITY BREAK – NOVI SAD

GRAD IZ ŽENSKOG UGLA Turistička organizacija Novog Sada među retkima je u zemlji koja u ponudi obilaska grada ima i jednu osobenu turu – mozaik priču o biografijama dvanaest znamenitih Novosađanki. Šetajući kroz odabrane ambijente grada, koji su na simboličan ili direktan način povezani sa ovim darovitim ženama, upoznaćete se s njihovim delima i steći novu i drugačiju sliku o životu grada.

italac teksta, a nadamo se i budući gost Novog Sada, proći će put sećanja na jake i talentovane žene novosadske. One inteligentne, pomalo zaboravljene, one koje bude osećaj poštovanja. Svaka od ovih neponovljivih ličnosti uvešće vas u urbano tkivo grada, na mesta koja se prepliću s njihovim životima. Za početak razgledanja možete odabrati bilo koju ličnost – možda najpre onu koja je najbliža vašem afinitetu, a mi ćemo priču početi od Jovanke Stojković, vrsne pijanistkinje i kompozitorke 19. veka PRVA PIJANISTKINJA VEKA Ova darovita muzičarka završila je studije klavira

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

kod Lista i Drajšoka. Franc List je Jovanku smatrao za „prvu pijanistkinju veka“. Svojom virtuoznošću snažno ulazi u muzički život Novog Sada sedamdesetih godina 19. veka. Bilo je to vreme vatrenog rodoljublja, kada se klicalo kulturi. Jovanka je bila muza Jovana Subotića i Laze Kostića. „Ovogodišnjeg maja pojavio se u srpskim lugovima jedan slavuj…“, pisali su o njoj. Željna usavršavanja, ona u Italiji uči solo pevanje i nastupa kao koncertna pevačica, a ogleda se i u komponovanju. Vreme i delo Jovanke Stojković vodi nas do rimokatoličke crkve imena Marijina. U crkvi postoje koncertne, orgulje, koje su simbolična spona s njom. Zajedno sa Gradskom kućom i spomenikom Svetozaru Miletiću, crkva

imena Marijina čini izuzetnu arhitektonsku celinu sa građevinama Trga slobode. SPISATELJICA NADAHNUTA VOJVODINOM Eržebet Berček se svojim proznim delom svrstala u red najznačajnijih književnica među jugoslovenskim Mađarima. Bila je inspirisana svojim podnebljem, a zajednički život Srba i Mađara i položaj žene osnovne su teme njene proze. Najznačajnija dela su joj novela Vándor a Nišavánál (Putnik na Nišavi) i roman A végtelen fal (Beskrajni zid). Pisala je između dva svetska rata. Danas jedna ulica u gradu nosi njeno ime, ali ona nije u centru – vezu između nje i grada naći ćete u Katoličkoj porti –

skladnoj ambijentalnoj celini, u kojoj dominira barokno-klasicistička zgrada Katoličke plebanije. U porti se nalazi Kulturni centar Novog Sada, mesto najrazličitijih, klasičnih i alternativnih dešavanja. VRSNA ORATORKA Dete iz ugledne grčko-cincarske porodice PolitDesančića Savka Subotić stasala je u borca za ženska prava. Bila je prva predsednica Srpskog narodnog ženskog saveza i Kola srpskih sestara. Bila je veoma obrazovana žena – bez dlake na jeziku. Upamćena je i po odličnom govoru na predavanju „Žena na istoku i na zapadu“, koji je održala u Beču. Osnovala je i uspešno sprovela program ekonomskog osnaživanja seoskih žena. Sećanje na tu ženu vodi nas u Grčkoškolsku ulicu i Grčku školu. Savkin sin Dejan Subotić, kasnije ruski gubernator Mandžurije, bio je najpoznatiji đak te škole. INTELEKTUALKA BEZ PREMCA Anica Savić-Rebac bila je čudo od deteta – u svojoj dvanaestoj godini prevodila je Bajrona. Završila je klasičnu filologiju u Beču, doktorsku disertaciju „Pretplatonovska“ erotologija odbranila je na Univerzitetu u Beogradu. Bavila se naučnim i pedagoškim radom, prevela je sa latinskog Lukrecijeve stihove, a na engleski Njegoševu „Luču mikrokozmu“. Ostala je upamćena kao jedna od intelektualno najmoćnijih žena u istoriji. Njeno detinjstvo obeležio je značajni krug intelektualaca, okupljenih oko Matice srpske, koja se tada nalazila u zgradi Platoneuma. Urbanu sponu s njom naći ćete u ovom zdanju iz 18. veka, koje samo po sebi ima „biografiju“ vrednu pažnje. ANGAŽOVANA UREDNICA Borac za prava žena bila je i Milica Tomić, spisateljica, urednica i vlasnica najčitanijeg ženskog časopisa „Žena“. Ćerka slavnog oca Svetozara Miletića i supruga poznatog političara Jaše Tomića, i sama se rano uključila u politički život Vojvodine. Milica je svoj život posvetila uređivanju „Žene“. Objavljivala je teme o školovanju ženske dece, o ženskim društvima, istorijatu ženskog pokreta u Evropi. Stanovala je u Dunavskoj ulici (u broju 14). Ta ulica je jedna od najstarijih i najslikovitijih u gradu. Jednospratnice živopisnih fasada nose pečat otmenosti iščezlog vremena. Današnjim životom ulice dominira trgovačko-ugostiteljski sadržaj, koji polako briše tragove prošlosti. SESTRE SOCIJALISTKINJE Milica i Anka Ninković mogu se smatrati za prve feministkinje. One su ujedno prve žene koje su aktivno učestvovale u političkom životu Srbije, priključivši se socijalističkom pokretu Svetozara

Markovića. Živele su život u skladu sa idejama u koje su verovale, boreći se za emancipaciju žena. Obe su završile studije pedagogije u Cirihu i pokušale da otvore prvu privatnu višu žensku školu u Kragujevcu. U blizini Novosadskog sajma jedna ulica nosi njihovo ime. HUMANA STRADALNICA Jelena Kon je u vreme velike ekonomske krize 1925. godine osnovala humanitarno društvo Kora hleba i Dečje obdanište i savetovalište. Da bi sakupila donacije, organizovala je brojne koncerte, na kojima su, između ostalih, gostovali Bronislav Huberman i Artur Rubinštajn. Za vreme strašne mađarske okupacije, tokom zloglasne racije 1942. godine, kao Jevrejka uhapšena je, mučena, a zatim ubijena i bačena u Dunav, zajedno sa velikim brojem Novosađana. Mesto njenog duhovnog okrepljenja bila je Sinagoga. Ta skladna arhitektonska celina izgrađena u stilu mađarske secesije obuhvata sinagogu, crkvenu opštinu i jevrejsku školu. ZABORAVLJENA UMETNICA Glumica i prva žena rediteljka Milka Marković školovala se i usavršavala u Beču, Minhenu, Pragu, Drezdenu, Berlinu, Rimu... Bila je vodeća i najobrazovanija glumica svoga vremena. Njen angažman u Srpskom narodnom pozorištu započeo je 1885. godine, i trajao je do njene smrti. Režirala je komad „Ljubav“ (1911). Za svoj umetnički rad odlikovana je Ordenom svetog Save. Starost je proživela u siromaštvu, zaboravljena i sama. Mesto gde boravi sećanje na ovu umetnicu svakako je Srpsko narodno pozorište. NAJVEĆA SRPSKA DOBROTVORKA Marija Popović-Trandafil potiče iz ugledne porodice. Udala se za bogatog trgovca Jovana Trandafila, koji je brzo udvostručio početno bogatstvo. Marija i Jovan su zajedno osnovali fond za školovanje siromašne darovite dece. Posle muževljeve smrti, ona sama stiče kapital i pretvara ga u različita zaveštanja, čija ukupna vrednost dostiže sumu od 700.000 forinti. Osnovala je fondove za đačke stipendije, udaju sirotih devojaka, izdržavanje udovica, postradale i nemoćne, a njeno najznačajnije zaveštanje je Zavod za pravoslavnu siročad. U ovom zdanju danas se nalazi Matica srpska, najstarija srpska ustanova kulture, koja u svom bogatom fondu ima i kolekciju portreta znamenitih građana, među kojima je i njen portret. Ime ove nesebične žene nosi i trg ispred zdanja. Sahranjena je u Nikolajevskoj crkvi, koju je za života iz temelja obnovila. PREDVODNICA UKLETIH PESNIKA Obrazovana i nadarena pesnikinja Milica

Stojadinović-Srpkinja svojom poezijom i srcem bila je vezana za Frušku goru. Savremena kritika naziva je predvodnicom plejade ukletih srpskih pesnika. Prevodila je dela Balzaka, Getea, Frankla. Kao saradnica velikog reformatora jezika Vuka Karadžića, sakupljala je narodne pesme. Sarađivala je s mnogim listovima, prva je žena ratni izveštač. Umrla je u Beogradu, potpuno zaboravljena, u krajnjoj bedi. Njoj u čast ustanovljena je književna nagrada. U novijem delu grada jedna ulica nosi njeno ime, a njena dela se čuvaju u arhivi Matice srpske. ŽENA ISPRED SVOG VREMENA Mileva Marić-Ajnštajn, darovita matematičarka i žena Alberta Ajnštajna, prva je Srpkinja koja je studirala na Visokoj politehničkoj školi u Cirihu. Tu je i upoznala budućeg muža. Posle razvoda, Mileva se okrenula porodičnom životu. Kuća njenih roditelja nalazi se u Kisačkoj ulici broj 20. Na tabli kuće zapisano je: „Ovde su boravili Albert Ajnštajn, tvorac teorije relativiteta, i njegova naučna saradnica i supruga Mileva Marić.“ I dok traju rasprave o njenom stvarnom doprinosu nauci, grad se odužio svojoj sugrađanki: Univerzitet je ustanovio nagradu i simpozijum njoj u slavu. Jedna ulica nosi njeno ime, a po njoj se zovu i Ženske studije i istraživanja. KNJIŽEVNICA NESTALIH SVETOVA Spisateljica, književna kritičarka, istoričarka umetnosti, profesorka, novinarka, bibliotekarka, naučnica, sve su to profesije kojima se bavila Eržebet Juhas. Njena proza istražuje uzroke i posledice gubljenja tradicionalnih vrednosti na ličnom i društvenom planu. U svojim delima oživela je nestali svet bačke građanske porodice iz palanačkog miljea. Za svoj književni rad dobila je nagradu Ervin Šinko. ŽENSKE STUDIJE Autorka ideje i turističkog programa Novi Sad iz ženskog ugla je Gordana Stojaković, diplomirani turizmolog. Pri Ženskim studijama i istraživanjima Mileva Marić-Anštajn Gordana Stojaković vodi širi projekat, sa nazivom Znamenite žene Novog Sada. Turistička mapa Novi Sad iz ženskog ugla objavljena je na interaktivnom izlogu Turističkog informativnog centra i na web stranici Ženskih studija. Vizuelni oblik karte osmislila je Mirjana Isakov. BelGuest u saradnji s Jelenom ilić i Gordanom stoJaković

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Roman parade helmet, 4th century AD

T O S

R E C O M M E N D S

M U S E U M

O F

V O J V O D I N A

a BRiEf HisToRY of TiME

he cultural heritage of Vojvodina is presented at an exhibition divided into three themed sections: Archaeology, History and Ethnology. - The permanent exhibition opened in 1990, says Vladimir Mitović, the museum’s director. - However, over time it was bolstered with new content. One way is to incorporate parts of exhibitions organised by the Museum among the existing exhibits. With

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

in a beautiful building, a former court palace, in a novi sad park, on the banks of the River danube, the Museum of vojvodina is located, with its 400,000 items and 50,000 publications bearing witness to vojvodina’s turbulent history. Presenting eight thousand years of history, the museum preserves traces of the many civilisations and nations that have inhabited this fertile and rich land.

our exhibitions we also attract visitors and we dedicate special programmes to children as well. The existence of the first Palaeolithic period settlements are substantiated by artefacts from archaeological sites, while there are numerous artefacts from the Neolithic era, which was marked by the cultures of Starčevo, Vinča, Potist and Lengyel. The very important archaeological site of

Gomolava, which dates from 6,000 years ago, was investigated for some thirty years before material from the site was transferred to the Museum. 6,000-YEar-oLD ToYs - Many exceptional exhibits have been displayed, but we need to think about them and use our imagination in order to understand the period from

which they originate, explains Slađana Verlendečić, museum educator and excellent guide. - The red haired goddess from Donja Branjevina near Odžaci is regarded as a fertility statue, while some archaeologists interpret it as a unisex goddess (she has great female attributes, while looking from another angle like a phallic statue). The famous two-headed statuette from Hrtkovci was the symbol of protection for the then population; one tomb has preserved gifts for the afterlife alongside the body and perhaps this represents the origins of the funeral feast that is still practiced today. A good example worth exploring is the workshop “Archaeologist as a Detective”, which confirmed the hypothesis of one archaeologist that around a hundred small objects actually represented toys that are approximately 6,000 years old. Forensic investigators determined this on the basis of a fingerprint on one of the items. The archaeological exhibition runs through the Copper Age, following the first settlement of Indo-European tribes, then the Celts (Scordisci tribe) and from the Roman period there are numerous findings and locations - the most important of which is Sirmium, modernday Sremska Mitrovica, which was once one of the four imperial cities of the Roman Empire. The Museum of Vojvodina can be particularly proud of its collection of 4th century Roman helmets. Only 15 such helmets have been found in the world and the Museum of Vojvodina has as many as three of them. Moreover, these helmets look amazing: they are very nicely decorated and well preserved. Made with an inner layer of leather and iron work, the helmets’ parading top layer is made of plated sheet metal with rich details.

Three-handled pot, western Srem, Bronze Age

What distinguishes these helmets is an inscription in Greek that says who made and ordered them. They were probably worn by senior Roman officers. The helmets are extremely valuable and hold great historical and artistic value. They sparked great attention and interest as part of exhibitions in Germany and Italy, where they were seen by some 800,000 visitors and were insured for a total of €9 million. The period between the 4th and 9th centuries was marked by large population movements and the merging of the material culture of the natives with the cultures of those who settled the area. The demographics of this area continued to change until the late Middle Ages. At the end of that period numerous churches and monasteries were built and cities sprang up, such as Vršac, Bač, Kovin, Kupinik and others

Vršac deity, mid-Bronze Age

in 1826, the opening of the first schools and the development of education and the rise of publishing activities, when a significant number of books and textbooks were printed. The exhibiHISTORY AND ETHNOLOGY tion also presents the development An historical exhibition at the of sports and sporting disciplines. Museum presents the multi-ethOne of the museum’s spaces presnic development of Vojvodina ents the multi-confessional aspect from medieval times until of Vojvodina, as the spiritual life the second half of the 19th of this area developed within century, with an overthe Orthodox and Catholic view and illustration churches, as well as Jewish, depicting the events Protestant and Greek that led to the Catholic communities. creation of the The ethnological section area’s multiethof the permanent exhibinic environment. tion picturesquely presThe period of Serbian ents the social and culturcolonisation following al development of the people the Battle of Kosovo, until Anthropomorphic figurines with Gomolava, of Vojvodina during the 19th 5th millennium BC the gaining of cultural, and the 20th centuries. Many educational and religious autonomy within the centuries of intermingling of ethnic groups has Austro-Hungarian Empire, is presented through led to the co-existence and creation of a matesignificant artefacts, photographs, engravings etc. rial culture under different influences, though each Population growth during the 18th century revived nation has preserved certain characteristics of its the economy and encouraged the develop- own cultural identity. The ethnological exhibition ment of cities. The area became populated by marks those unique and distinctive features, but Germans, Hungarians, Slovaks, Romanians and also highlights the themes that make up the core of Russians, who brought features of their native popular culture. Other elements presented include cultures and customs. The intense growth of folk architecture, house decoration, agriculture, trade and craftsmanship began. The cities had weaving craft, customs and national costumes. a very rich social life, while some exhibits, such The Museum of Vojvodina’s objects testify to the as advertising posters, programmes and invita- past while simultaneously demonstrating that one tions, evoke the time of balls, the first theatrical can really learn a lot from the past and that our performances, literary and musical evenings etc. heritage should be preserved and kept as a record The cultural and educational development of in time for generations to come. the Serbs in the 18th and 19th centuries is represented by museum exhibits reflecting the time ROZANA SAZDIĆ that marked the establishment of Matica Srpska Photo by: Dragan Bosnić

BelGuest WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11

TOS PREPORUČUJE | MUZE J VOJVODINE

KRaTKa isToRiJa vREMEna

Anthropomorphic deity with bird’s face on cult barrow with three water birds, Bela Crkva, mid-Bronze Age

U lepom zdanju nekadašnje sudske palate, u novosadskom parku, na obali dunava, smešten je Muzej vojvodine, koji sa oko 400.000 predmeta i 50.000 publikacija, argumentovano svedoči o vojvođanskoj burnoj prošlosti. U rasponu od osam hiljada godina, sačuvani su tragovi mnogih civilizacija i naroda koji su naseljavali to plodno i bogato tlo.

ulturno nasleđe Vojvodine prikazano je izložbom koja je podeljena u tri tematske celine – arheologija, istorija i etnologija. „Stalna postavka otvorena je 1990. godine“ – kaže Vladimir Mitović, direktor Muzeja – „ali je ona s vremenom dopunjavana novim sadržajima. Jedan od načina je inkorporiranje delova izložbi koje Muzej organizuje među već postavljene eksponate. Izložbama, takođe, privlačimo posetioce, a posebne programe posvećujemo deci.“ O prvim naseobinama još u paleolitu svedoče artefakti sa arheoloških iskopina, a brojni su predmeti iz doba neolita, koje su obeležile Starčevačka,

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Vinčanska, Potiska i Lenđelska kultura. Veoma značajno arheološko nalazište Gomolava, koje potiče od pre 6000 godina, istraživano je tridesetak godina, i materijal sa tog lokaliteta prenet je u Muzej. igraČKE sTarE 6000 goDina „Izloženi su mnogi izuzetni eksponati, ali o njima treba razmišljati, domaštavati ih da bi se shvatilo doba iz koga potiču“ – objašnjava Slađana Verlendečić, muzejski pedagog i odličan vodič – „Crvenokosu boginju iz Donje Branjevine kod Odžaka, posmatraju kao statuetu plodnosti,

a neki arheolozi je tumače kao uniseks boginju (ima naglašene ženske atribute, a iz drugog ugla izgleda kao statua falusa). Čuvena dvoglava statueta iz Hrtkovaca bila je za tadašnje stanovnike simbol zaštite, u jednoj grobnici su pored tela pronađeni darovi za zagrobni život, pa možda otuda potiče ritual daća koji se zadržao do danas. Dobar primer da treba istraživati jeste radionica ’Arheolog kao detektiv’, na kojoj je potvrđena teza jednog arheologa da stotinak malih predmeta zapravo predstavlja dečje igračke od pre 6000 godina. Forenzičari su to utvrdili na osnovu otiska prsta na jednom od predmeta.“

Arheološka izložba vodi srednjeg veka menkroz bakarno doba, prati jala se demografska doseljavanje prvih indoslika ovog prostora. evropskih plemena, zatim Na kraju toga doba Kelta (pleme Skordisci), a podižu se brojne crkve iz rimskog vremena postoje i manastiri, niču grabrojni nalazi i više lokalitedovi Vršac, Bač, Kovin, ta, od kojih je najznačajniji Kupinik... Sirmijum, današnja Sremska isToriJa Mitrovica, koji je svojevrei ETnoLogiJa meno bio jedan od četiri carska grada u Rimskom Istorijskom izložbom carstvu. u Muzeju predstavljen Muzej Vojvodine može se je multietnički razvoj posebno pohvaliti kolekciVojvodine od sredjom kasnorimskih šlemova njeg veka do druge iz IV veka. Samo 15 takvih polovine XIX veka, sa šlemova pronađeno je u prikazom i ilustraciMemorial Album of theatre manager svetu, a Muzej Vojvodine jom događaja koji Antonio Hadžić, 1882 poseduje čak tri primerka. su doveli do stvaranja Pored toga, šlemovi izvanredno izgledaju, veoma višenacionalne sredine na ovom prostoru. su lepo ukrašeni i dobro očuvani. Napravljeni su sa Razdoblje od naseljavanja srpskog stanovništva unutrašnjim kožnim slojem i gvozdenim delom, a posle Kosovske bitke do dobijanja kulturno-prosparadni, gornji sloj je sačinjen od pozlaćenog lima vetne i verske autonomije u okviru Austrougarske sa bogatim detaljima. Ono što te šlemove izdvaja je monarhije propraćeno je značajnim eksponatima, i natpis na grčkom jeziku, gde stoji ko ih je napravio fotografijama, gravirama... i naručio, a pretpostavlja se da su ih nosili visoki U XVIII veku porast stanovništva oživljava rimski oficiri. privredu i podstiče razvoj gradova. Naseljavaju Šlemovi su vrlo skupoceni i sa izuzetnom isto- se Nemci, Mađari, Slovaci, Rumuni i Rusini, koji rijskom i umetničkom vrednošću. Veliku pažnju i donose osobenosti svoje kulture i običaja. Počinje interesovanje izazvali su kao deo izložbi u Nemačkoj i intenzivan uspon trgovine i zanatstva. U gradoi Italiji, kada ih je videlo oko 800.000 posetilaca, a vima je veoma bogat društveni život. A eksponati bili su osigurani na devet miliona evra. Vreme od kao što su reklamni plakati, programi i pozivnice, IV do IX veka obeleženo je velikom seobom naroda dočaravaju vreme balova, prvih pozorišnih predi mešanjem materijalne kulture starosedelaca sa stava, književnih i muzičkih večeri... kulturama naroda koji su dolazili. Sve do kasnog Kulturni i prosvetni razvoj Srba u XVIII i XIX

Lead figure with Gomolave, 4th century AD

veku predstavljen je muzejskim predmetima koji odslikavaju vreme osnivanja Matice srpske 1826, otvaranja prvih škola i razvoja školstva, zamaha izdavačke delatnosti, kada se štampa znatan broj knjiga i udžbenika, a prikazan je i razvoj sporta i sportskih disciplina. U jednoj prostoriji muzeja može se sagledati multikonfesionalnost Vojvodine, jer se duhovni život na tom prostoru odvijao u okviru pravoslavne i katoličke crkve, te jevrejske, protestantske i grkokatoličke zajednice. U etnološkom delu stalne postavke na slikovit način prikazan je društveni i kulturni razvoj ljudi na prostoru Vojvodine tokom XIX i XX veka. Viševekovno preplitanje brojnih etničkih grupa dovelo je do zajedničkog života i stvaranja materijalne kulture pod različitim uticajima, ali je svaki narod sačuvao određena svojstva svog kulturnog identiteta. Etnološka izložba označava te posebnosti i odlike, ali i izdvaja teme koje čine jezgro narodne kulture. Predstavljeni su narodna arhitektura, uređenje kuće, poljoprivreda, tkačka radinost, običaji i narodna nošnja. Predmeti u Muzeju Vojvodine govore o prošlosti, ali pokazuju i da se iz nje može mnogo naučiti i da naše nasleđe treba čuvati i sačuvati kao trag o vremenu za generacije koje dolaze. rOZana SaZDiĆ Fotografije: Dragan Bosnić

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

info | novi sad TourisT organizaTion noVi saD Modene 1, 21000 Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 421 811, +381 21 66 17 343 Fax: +381 21 451 481 tons@turizamns.rs, info@turizamns.rs www.turizamns.rs MusEuMs THE MusEuM oF THE ToWn oF noVi saD Petrovaradinska tvrđava Tel: +381 21 64 33 145 , 64 33 613 muzgns@eunet.rs www.museumns.rs THE MusEuM oF THE ToWn oF noVi saD – ForEign arT CoLLECTion Dunavska 29 Tel: +382 21 451 239 muzgns@eunet.rs www.museumns.rs THE MusEuM oF THE ToWn oF noVi saD – THE HoMELanD MusEuM srEMsKi KarLoVCi Patrijarha Rajačića 16, Sremski Karlovci Tel: +381 21 881 637 muzejsrkarlovci@gmail.com THE MusEuM oF VoJVoDina Dunavska 35,Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 420 566, 526 555 muzejvojvodine3@nscable.net www.muzejvojvodine.org PozoriŠni MuzEJ VoJVoDinE Kralja Aleksandra 5, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 66 13 322 info@pmv.org.rs www.pmv.org.rs THE MusEuM oF ConTEMPorarY FinE arT Jevrejska 21, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 66 13 897, 66 11 463, 66 13 526 msluns@eunet.rs www.msuv.org

THE insTiTuTE oF THE ProTECTion oF naTurE in sErBia, noVi saD Radnička 20a, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 48 96 305, 48 96 302 novi-sad@natureprotection.org.rs www.natureprotection.org.rs gaLLEriEs MaTiCa srPsKa gaLLErY Trg galerija 1, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 48 99 000 galerijamaticesrpske@sbb.rs www.galerijamaticesrpske.rs THE MEMoriaL CoLLECTion oF PaVLE BELJansKi Trg galerije 2, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 528 185 kontakt@pavle-beljanski.museum www.pavle-beljanski.museum FinE arT gaLLErY – MEMoriaL CoLLECTion oF raJKo MaMuziĆ Vase Stajića 1, Novi Sad Tel: +381 21 520 467, 520 223 glurm@nadlanu.com www.galerijamamuzic.org.rs CounTrY rEsToranTs (saLaŠi) saLaŠ 137 Međunarodni put 137, Čenej Tel: +381 21 714 505, +381 21 714 501, +381 62 773 137 www.salas137.rs info@salas137.rs saLaŠ 84 Stari žabaljski put Tel: +381 21 445 993, +381 21 6411229 salas84@neobee.rs naŠ saLaŠ Međunarodni put 325, Čenej Tel: +381 21 714 704, +381 64 873 91 01 HoTELs 5* ParK Novosadskog sajma 35 Tel: +381 21 4888 888

Fax: +381 21 4888 885 www.hotelparkns.com info@hotelparkns.com 5* LEoPoLD i Petrovadinska tvrdjava Tel: +381 21 488 7878 Fax: +381 21 4887 877 www.leopoldns.com office@leopoldns.com 4* aLEKsanDar Bulevar Cara Lazara 79 Tel: +381 21 480 44 44, +381 21 480 44 84 Fax: +381 21 480 44 44 www.hotelaleksandar.rs office@hotelaleksandar.rs 4* PrEziDEnT Futoški put 109 Tel: +381 21 487 74 44 Fax: +381 21 662 43 33 www.presidenthotel.com gm@president.com marketing@president.com 3* saJaM Hajduk Veljkova 11 Tel: +381 21 420-266 Fax: +381 21 420-266 www.hotelsajam.co.rs htpsajam@eunet .rs 3* VoJVoDina Trg Slobode 2 Tel: +381 21 6622 122 Fax: +381 21 66 15 445 vojvodinahtl@neobee.net 3* noVi saD Bulevar Jaše Tomića bb Tel: +381 21 442-511 Fax: +381 21 443-072 www.hotelnovisad.rs hupns@neobee.net 3* norCEV Elektrovojvodina, Iriški venac, Partizanski put bb Tel: +381 21 48 00 222 Fax: +381 21 48 00 256 www.norcev.rs 3* zEniT Zmaj Jovina 10 Tel: +381 21 66 21 444

Fax: +381 21 6621 327 www.hotelzenit..rs 3* PanoraMa Futoška 1a Tel: +381 21 4801 800 www.hotelpanorama.co.rs panorama@neobee.net 3* ELiT Bulevar Jovana Dučića 35 Tel: +381 21 488 5888 Fax: +381 21 488 5889 www.hotelelite.rs office@elitecentar.rs 2* FiTnEss gYMnas Teodora Pavlovića 28 Tel: +381 21 467 710, +381 21 467-656 Fax: +381 21 474 07 04 www.gymnas.co.rs gymnas@neobee.net 2* MEDiTEranEo Ilije Ognjanovića 10 Tel: +381 21 427 135 www.hotelmediteraneo.rs mediteraneo@sbb.rs 2* riMsKi Jovana Cvijića 26 Tel: +381 21 444 765 Fax: +381 21 443-237 www.rimski.co.rs rimski@eunet.rs aurora Beogradski kej 49, Tel: +381 21 487 14 00 Fax: +381 21 540 869 www.hotelaurora.rs arTa BouTiQE HoTEL Heroja Pinkija 12 Tel: +381 21 68 04 500 www.boutiquhotelarta.rs e-mail:office@boutiquehotelarta.rs

HOTEL TVRDAVA LEOPOLD I

MONARCHIC SHINE

COVETED TITLE OF ’THE BEST’

An elegant building and sophisticated Vojvodina charm combine to create the Hotel Park, a unique oasis of comfort for the business world; a fairytale location for a family hotel or a romantic break for two. In the surroundings of a large park, with private parking and a huge terrace, your need for relaxation from strenuous daily life will be satisfied. The hotel complex, with an impressive 26,000m2, is a kind of city within a city – equipped with a wellness and spa centre, grand casino and a special place at this leading Serbian hotel is represented by its attractive conference centre, complete with six flexible conference rooms and two amphitheatres. Hotel Park has welcomed many statesmen, athletes, members of the world jet-set and even Nobel Laureates. The Hotel Park could be dubbed a hotel of modern art that, alongside exquisite works of art, has a trophy cabinet displaying the coveted title of Best in Serbia.

LASKAVA TITULA NAJBOLJEG

Elegantno zdanje i prefinjen vojvođanski šarm čine hotel Park jedinstvenom oazom udobnosti za poslovan svet, bajkovitim mestom za porodični odmor i romantični beg u dvoje. U okruženju velikog parka, s vlastitim parkingom i ogromnom terasom, zadovoljiće vašu potrebu za opuštanjem od naporne svakodnevice. Hotelski kompleks sa impresivnih 26.000 kvadrata je svojevrstan grad u gradu - raspolaže wellness i spa-centrom, grand kazinom, a posebno mesto u ovom vodećem srpskom hotelu ima atraktivni konferencijski centar sa šest prilagodljivih kongresnih sala i dva inFo: amfiteatra. U hotelu Parku su boravili broj- Hotel Park Novosadskog sajma 35, ni državnici, sportisti, pripadnici svetskog Novi Sad džet-seta, pa čak i nobelovci. Tel: +381 21 488 88 88 Hotel Park se može nazvati i hotelom Fax: +381 21 488 88 85 moderne umetnosti koji, uz probrana info@hotelparkns.com umetnička dela, u svojoj trofejnoj vitrini www.hotelparkns.com čuva i laskavu titulu najboljeg u Srbiji.

If you would like to experience the spirit of the monarchic period, this rare building – located within the walls of Petrovardin Fortress – will provide you with the setting for a trip to the magnificent past. The windows of Leopold I offer views of Novi Sad and the powerful waters of the Danube. This mansion hotel, a perfect example of late Renaissance architecture, is today home to harmonious royal elegance and contemporary art. The hotel has a deluxe category and, besides beautiful rooms, offers superior luxury apartments and residences. In an attempt to impress the guest and offer him moments of relaxation, the hotel offers a Turkish bath, sauna, salt cave, massage parlour, Jacuzzi corner with warm benches and a fully-equipped gym. The prevailing spirit of the late Renaissance charms you with its harmony and evokes past times. More than a luxury hotel, Leopold I is a symbol of elegance and pleasure, proof that living art exists and endures.

SJAJ MONARHIJE

Ukoliko poželite da osetite duh monarhijskog doba, ovo raritetno zdanje unutar zidina Petrovardinske tvrđave pružiće vam okvir za putovanje u raskošnu prošlost. S prozora Leopolda I pruža se pogled na Novi Sad i moćne vode Dunava. Zdanje hotela je savršen primer arhitekture kasne renesanse. Danas, u njemu harmoniji žive kraljevska elegancija i moderna umetnosti. Hotel ima deluks kategoruju i, osim lepih soba, nudi i superluksuzne apartmane i rezidencije. U želji da impresionira gosta i ponudi mu trenutke opuštanja, hotel nudi usluge turskog kupatila, saune, slane pećine, salona za masažu, đakuzi kutka s toplim inFo: klupama, teretane. Hotel Tvrđava-Leopold I, Sveprisutni duh kasne renesanse Petrovaradinska tvrđava šarmiraće vas svojim skladom i pod- Tel: +381 21 488 78 78 setiti na dane prošle. Više od luk- Fax: +381 21 488 78 77 suznog hotela, Leopold I je simbol office@leopoldns.com elegancije i uživanja, dokaz da umet- www.leopoldns.com nost življenja postoji i traje.

Hotel Novi Sad is located in the very heart of Novi Sad, at the crossroads of the major boulevards, just near the railway and bus station, near the fair, center and city parks. Object has 112 well equipped rooms on its disposal with capacity of 244 beds: 48 triple rooms, 20 twin rooms, 30 double rooms( rooms with French beds), 8 suits and 1 Deluxe suit. Parking place has 24h security and video surveillance. Hotel offer is completed with restaurant, saloon, seminar room, aperitiv bar, sauna, discotheque, playroom for birthay parties „Queen“. Hotel Novi Sad is providing you free Internet access via wireless (wireless) connection and accepts most major credit card: VISA, DINNERS, MASTERCARD, MAESTRO, AMERICAN EXPRESS. Come and be assured of quality of our accommodation and gastronomic offer.

Hotel Novi Sad lociran je u srcu Novog Sada, na raskrsnici najvećih Bulevara, neposredno blizu železničke i autobuske stanice, u blizini novosadskog sajma, centra i parkova. Objekat raspolaže sa 112 dobro opremljenih soba, kapaciteta 244 ležaja, od kojih su 48 trokrevetne, 25 trokrevetnih, 30 soba sa francuskim ležajem, 8 apartmana i 1 De lux apartman. Ponuda hotela je upotpunjena restoranom, svečanim salonom,seminar salom, aperitiv barom, saunom, diskotekom i rođendaonicom „Queen“ Hotel ima i prostran parking koji je danonoćno pod nadzorom službe obezbeđenja kao i besplatni pristup internetu, putem bežične (wireless) konekcije. U hotelu Novi Sad možete plaćati karticama: VISA, DINERS, MASTERCARD, MAESTRO, AMERICAN EXPRESS. Dođite i uverite se u kvalitet naše smeštajne i gastronomske ponude.

Bulevara Jaše Tomića 1, Novi Sad, tel: + 381 (0)21 442-511, , fax: + 381 (0)21 442-944, e-mail: hupns@neobee.net, www.hotelnovisad.rs, www.restorannovisad.rs

BEST WESTERN PREZIDENT HOTEL Futoška 109, 21 000 Novi Sad, Serbia; Tel: + 381 21 487 7444; + 381 63 475 773; reservations@prezidenthotel.com; www.prezidenthotel.com

Dobrodošli u Best Western Prezident Hotel!

Welcome to the Best Western Prezident Hotel!

Best Western Prezident Hotel spada u grupu od samo par hotela u Srbiji koji broje pet zvezdica i sa veoma atraktivnom lokacijom, svega 100 m od Novosadskog Sajma, nudi najviši nivo stila, komfora i elegancije! Ovaj moderni i luksuzni objekat smešten je u blizini centra grada i shopping područja. Hotel raspolaže kapacitetom od 50 soba i apartmana (smeštajni kapacitet preko 100 osoba). Jedinstveni enterijer, usklađen sa svetskim standardima, učiniće da svaki provedeni trenutak u hotelu bude poseban!Gosti Hotela će uživati u širokom spektru usluga, kao što su luksuzno opremljene klimatizovane sobe, namenjene poslovnim ljudima, ljubazno, multilingvalno i uslužno osoblje, mogućnost korišćenja interneta, relaksacija u zatvorenom i otvorenom bazenu, kao i u Wellness&Spa Centru, uživanje u lounge baru hotela, mogućnost poručivanja hrane, obezbeđeni parking, pranje automobila, mogućnost iznajmljivanja vozila. Usluge Interneta i Wellness&Spa centra je besplatna za goste hotela!

The Best Western Prezident Hotel is one of a few five star hotels in Serbia and enjoys a privileged location of vicinity of Novi Sad’s fair (100 m) offering a level of style, comfort and elegance to suit every occasion.This modern and luxurious building is located near to the city center and shopping promenade. The hotel has a capacity of 50 rooms and suites (accommodation capacity of 100 people).The unique interior design, compliant with world standards, will make every minute of your stay to be special! Guests of our Hotel will enjoy a wide range of services, such as our luxuriously appointed air conditioned rooms, LCD TV, designed for business people, friendly, multilingual and helpful staff, the possibility of using the internet, relax in the indoor and outdoor swimming pool and Wellness & Spa Center, enjoy the lounge bar of the hotel, the ability to order food, secured parking, car wash, car rental option. Internet and use of Wellness & Spa center is free of charge for the guests of the hotel!

Best Western Prezident Hotel je potvrdio svoj vrtoglavi uspeh na tržištu, primivši u Londonu prestižnu nagradu “International Quality Crown Aword London 2010” za kvalitet usluge, upravljanje i uspešno poslovanje! Da je reč o zaista vrednom priznanju svedoči činjenica da je Hotel “Prezident” jedini hotel u Evropi kome je B.I.D. (Business Initiative Directions) dodelio ovu laskavu titulu!

Best Western Prezident Hotel has confirmed its dizzying success on the market after receiving the prestigious “International Quality Crown Award London 2010”, in the UK capital, in recognition of its quality of service, management and successful business! Confirming the true worth of this acknowledgement is the fact that the Hotel Prezident is Europe’s only hotel to have been awarded this title by the BID (Business Initiative Directions)!

INFO: Tourism Organisation of Apatin www.turizam.apatin.com Junaković Spa www.banja-junakovic.rs

Town house in the secessionist style of the early 20th century

TOS ReCOMMeNDS | TOURISM OFFeRS ON THe DANUBe

APAtIN – SerBIA’S NOrtHerNMOSt CItY On the left bank of the Danube in north-western Bačka lies the municipality of Apatin, renowned for its enviable nature, developed fishing and nautical tourism, Serbia’s newest spa, the brewery and surrounding hunting areas… A privileged geographical position has largely determined the direction of Apatin’s economic development.

istory records that this region has always been attractive to many nations, who selected it for their own country – from the Sarmatians, Celts and Goths of prehistoric times, to the Slavs who settled in the 6th century, followed by Hungarians, Germans etc. Today’s Apatin is a multiethnic city that is this year marking ten centuries of existence. This is also one of vojvodina’s municipalities with the most Serbs originating from Lika, who settled at the time of Yugoslav colonisation that followed World War II. A quiet, peaceful town, Apatin is Serbia’s largest port on the Danube north of Novi Sad. At the entrance to the town lies the impressive Orthodox temple of the Holy Apostles, followed by a branch of the Danube that leads to the Apatin Port. Four

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

kilometres further along is the famous Junaković Spa complex, with its thermal waters, which can be reached following a cycle path. Apatin also has an appealing promenade beside the Danube, interesting buildings in the city centre, a series of bars on the banks of the river, a sandy public beach etc. MODERN MARINA IN THE CITY OF FISHERMEN New opportunities for the development of local tourism were created in 2009 with the opening of the Apatin Marina. With capacity for 400 boats (including 120 larger yachts), the marina boasts moorings for docking boats year-round, Serbia’s only waterborne petrol station, a restaurant, nautical and fishing club, marine service centre etc. Part

of the marina includes a dock for large vessels. Several large passenger ships first anchored in Apatin last year – with one of the largest being the Mozart cruise ship, which sails the Danube route under a German flag. Apatin is a small town with a lot of fishermen and a developed fishing tradition. The landscape of the Upper Danube region includes the Apatin Fen, which is very fish rich. If you’re interested in trying your hand at a spot of sport fishing, the Association of Sport Fishermen enables you to take out a license to fish, rent a boat or use the services of a professional guide. Apatin also has developed hunting tourism – in the forests of the Upper Danube region, the so-called Serbian Amazon, live deer, roe deer, wild boar etc. There is also an

Theme from Apatin interesting and increasingly popular tourist opportunity in terms of bird watching: this area has 280 species, some of which are very rare, such as the white-tailed eagle, black stork, cormorant etc. GASTRONOMIC TRADITION The fishing tradition has led to the evolving of gastronomic traditions, embodied in various fish dish offers prepared in the town’s restaurants or the renowned riverside čard eateries on the banks of the Danube. The preparation and sampling of fish stew is championed by the local event Apatin Fishing evenings. Part of this event includes the organising of an attractive race between old apatincima fishing boats. every summer Apatin also hosts the international kayak-canoe rowing Danube regatta - TID (Tour International Danubien).

Modern marina This important regatta, which has a 55-year tradition, starts in Germany and connects all Danubian countries before culminating in Romania. There are many reasons to visit Serbia’s northernmost city on the Danube. Apatin is a city of nature, with many oases for enjoying diverse opportunities for active recreation. According to official statistics, Apatin is visited by 75,000 tourists annually. Mile Đukić, Director of the Tourism Organisation of Apatin, notes plans to increase this number, as well as insisting that the tourism offer will be improved this year. Specifically, the opening of a tourist complex on the Green Heads Lake has been announced, which will be completed with a hotel, apartments, bungalows and a campsite. Jelena Jovanović

JUNAKOVIĆ SPA

Your part of the Pannonian Sea The spa’s waters come from a depth of 700 metres and reach a temperature of 50 ºC. In terms of quality, the waters are comparable to those of Karlovy Vary, Harkány and Lipik. Medical therapies include treatment of all types of rheumatism, orthopaedic and neurological disorders, gynaecological disorders and fertility. In addition to a complex of 10 outdoor pools, eight-lane bowling alley and tennis courts, the spa have an indoor swimming pool, sauna and gym. Here you can select one of numerous types of massage offered. This offer includes “gypsum Bermuda,” a seaweed body treatment, and a traditional Moroccan wellness programme. A health path and bicycle trails traverse the Junaković forest park, linking the spa to Apatin. Apatin Fen

TOS PRePORUČUJe | TURISTIČKA PONUDA NA DUNAvU

APAtIN – NAJSeVerNIJI SrPSKI grAD Na levoj obali Dunava, na severozapadu Bačke, nalazi se opština Apatin, poznata po veličanstvenoj prirodi, razvijenom ribolovu, nautičkom turizmu, najmlađoj banji u Srbiji, pivari i okolnim lovištima… Povlašćen geografski položaj umnogome je odredio pravce privrednog razvoja Apatina.

istoriji je zabeleženo da je ta regija uvek bila privlačna mnogim narodima, koji su je odabirali za svoj zavičaj – od Sarmata, Kelta i Gota u praistoriji, do Slovena, koji su se naselili u 6. veku, potom Mađara, Nemaca... Apatin je danas multietnički grad, koji ove godine obeležava deset vekova postojanja. To je i jedna od vojvođanskih opština sa najviše Srba poreklom iz Like, koji su se doselili u vreme kolonizacije u Jugoslaviji nakon Drugog svetskog rata. Mirna i tiha varošica, najveća je luka na Dunavu pre Novog Sada. Na ulasku u grad nalazi se impresivan pravoslavni hram Sabor Svetih apostola, a zatim se skreće ka rukavcu Dunava, koji vodi ka apatinskom pristaništu. Četiri kilometara dalje je poznati banjski kompleks sa termalnom vodom – banja Junaković, do koga se može stići i biciklističkom stazom. Apatin ima i lepo šetalište kraj Dunava, zanimljive građevine u centru grada, kafiće na obali reke, peščanu gradsku plažu… MODERNA MARINA U GRADU ALASA Nove mogućnosti za razvoj ovdašnjeg turizma otvorile su se 2009. godine, kada je otvorena apatinska marina. Ona ima kapacitet za 400 čamaca (od toga za 120 većih jahti), i vezove za čuvanje čamaca u toku čitave godine, te jedinu benzinsku pumpu na vodi u Srbiji, restoran, nautički i ribolovački klub, servisni centar... Deo marine je pristanište za velike brodove. Nekoliko velikih putničkih brodova prvi put se tu usidrilo

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

prošle godine – jedan od najvećih bio je kruzer „Mocart“, koji plovi pod nemačkom zastavom. Apatin je gradić sa mnoštvom ribara i razvijenom ribarskom tradicijom. Predeo Gornjeg Podunavlja, gde se nalazi Apatinski rit, veoma je bogat ribom. Ako ste zainteresovani da se oprobate u pecanju, Udruženje sportskih ribolovaca omogućiće vam da izvadite dozvolu za pecanje, iznajmite čamac ili koristite usluge stručnog vodiča. U Apatinu je razvijen i lovni turizma – u šumama Gornjeg Podunavlja – „srpske Amazonije“ – žive jeleni, srne, divlje svinje... Postoji i zanimljiva i sve popularnija turistička ponuda – posmatranje ptica: u tom području ima

BANJA JUNAKOVIĆ

Vaš deo Panonskog mora Banjske vode potiču sa 700 metara dubine i dostižu temperaturu od 50ºC. Po svom kvalitetu mere se s vodama Karlovih Vari, Harkanja i Lipika. Medicinske terapije obuhvataju lečenje svih vrsta reumatizma, ortopedskih i neuroloških oboljenja, ginekoloških oboljenja i bračnog steriliteta. Pored kompleksa od 10 otvorenih bazena, osmostazne kuglane i teniskih terena, banja ima i zatvoren bazen, finske saune i teretane. Tu možete odabrati neku od brojnih tipova masaža u ponudi, a mi izdvajamo „gipsane bermude“, tretman tela algama i marokanski wellness program. Kroz Park šumu „Junaković“ vodi Staza zdravlja, a biciklističkim stazama Banja je povezana sa Apatinom.

ih 280 vrsta, a neke su veoma retke, kao što su orao belorepan, crna roda, kormoran… GASTRONOMSKA TRADICIJA Iz ribolovačke tradicije kraja razvila se i gastronomska tradicija oličena u raznolikoj ponudi ribljih specijaliteta, koji se pripremaju u restoranima u gradu ili u nekoj od poznatih čardi, na obalama Dunava. Priprema i degustacija ribljeg paprikaša okosnica je manifestacije Apatinske ribarske večeri. U okviru ovih večeri organizuje se i atraktivna trka starim ribarskim čamcima apatincima. Svakog leta grad je i domaćin međunarodne turističke kajak-kanu veslačke Dunavske regate – TID (Tour international Danubien). Ta značajna regata ima pedesetpetogodišnju tradiciju, startuje u Nemačkoj, povezuje sve podunavske zemlje i završava se u Rumuniji. Mnogo je razloga da posetite najseverniji srpski grad na Dunavu. Apatin je grad prirode, sa oazama za uživanje i raznolikim mogućnostima za aktivan odmor. Godišnje ga poseti 75.000 turista, navodi zvanična statistika. Mile Đukić, direktor TO Apatin, ističe da je u planu povećanje tog broja, te da će turistička ponuda ove godine biti bogatija. Naime, najavljeno je otvaranje turističkog kompleksa na jezeru Zelena glava, koji će imati hotel, apartmane u bungalovima i kamp naselje. Jelena Jovanović

T H R E E I D E A L DAYS I N N I Š

INFO You can find various city break programme offers for Niš at websites of the following travel agencies: EASY TRAVEL, www.easytravel.rs ADDEL, www.addel.biz MONDORAMA, www.mondorama.rs OTAVA, www.otavatravel.rs HALO TRAVEL, www.halotravel.co.rs LASTA, www.lasta-turizam.com

SOUTHERN PERFECTION

As part of a project to develop tourism programmes for one-day, two-day and three-day sightseeing tours of Niš, the city’s tourism organisation has released a programme with the best travel agencies’ deals. The passage that follows is a personal, imagined trip following the trail of these recommendations.

have always been attracted to Serbia. The people where I come from aren’t so familiar with the charms of this country. It was dawn when I landed at Constantine the Great Airport and I’d initially thought that I would have to wait a few more hours for the city to awaken. Yet this wasn’t the case. Obviously I had arrived in a city that has something to offer all the time. I’d spent the flight reading travel programmes. I inspected the city map and first set out for Kazandžijsko sokače, the street of local joie de vivre, for breakfast at the restaurant Pležer. Southern

perfection on a plate to start the day. Naturally, I wanted to fill my entire day, so I started from the city’s “chapter one”; from the place most people consider a symbol of the City of Niš: I went to the Fortress. Located in the centre of town, on the banks of the River Nišava, its present appearance dates from the early 17th century. It looks impressive, I must admit. I found out from the guide that it was demolished and rebuilt many times – by the Romans, the Slavs, Byzantines, Bulgarians etc. I toured the fortress’s Lapidarium, a collection of gravestones, and the Arsenal, which is located to the right of the main ‘Stambol’ (Istanbul) Gate. A gunpowder room, gun casements and of the many facilities that make

up the fort are accompanied by exciting stories. Indeed a genuine treasure. After the educational part of the morning, I felt the need for something lighter so that I could reenergise before continuing my tour of the historical sights this city is not short of. As if the guide had read my mind, we set off for a walk along the River Nišava, where we saw the Banovina building, passed a large, flowery market that lured us with its abundance, then crossed the bridge and arrived on Obrenović Street, the pedestrian zone, to merge with the smiling locals. This relaxing walk prepared me for the tour of the Narodnog (National) Museum. I was excited to learn that the display cases and stores of the National Museum are filled with priceless items of

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

incalculable historical value. The museum collections include about 40,000 items from the fields of archaeology, history, ethnology, art history, cultural history and numismatics. I was impressed with a collection of Roman coins and my live encounter with the Roman mosaics.

food that the locals really know how to serve. The intoxicating smell of barbecue that would make you give up any diet. The second day in Niš ended deep into the night, enjoying music and fun alongside free drinks provided by the guide.

ADORATION OF THE EMPEROR & SYMBOLS OF REVENGE The first time I awoke in Niš it was to the aromas of coffee, breakfast and greenery. Not even for a second did I feel like a stranger; I leapt to my feet and saw that the city was awake. In order to feel a city it is not enough to spend a day visiting its cultural heritage and monuments. Rather one should do the things that its inhabitants do. Led by this belief, I had the opportunity to attend a wine tasting and wine blending competition ar the elite Regent Club restaurant . The host agency had a wide variety of transfers to the archaeological site of Mediana and I wanted to see this luxury estate of Emperor Constantine, the most famous citizen of Niš. Mediana is little known site containing the ruins of the grand imperial estate, with a villa, thermal spas, a craft centre etc. With vivid narration for the guide, I could imagine the senators, generals and various other officials passing through the monumental gate of the villa and, by imperial protocol, first entering the salutatorium – the presentation room - only to be led into the consitorium (reception hall). I could only imagine what food and drinks were served in the trichorum (banquet hall). From Roman times and imperial protocol, I crossed a road through time when they took me to see the story of Skull Tower (Ćele Kula). There are so many stories about the tower, but none of them are enough to describe the awestruck feeling of standing in front of the monument. Nowhere in the world is there a monument similar to this one.

IN THE SIGN OF SPIRITUALITY I wanted to spend the third day a little differently and, thanks to the agency, I managed it. I dedicated that last day in Niš to spiritual knowledge. Niš has a long Christian tradition dating back to the 4th century. The first church we visited was the Church of St. Archangel Michael, a small cathedral temple located in a large churchyard. This church was the main temple of the Niš diocese until the blessing of the new Main Church. I also had an interesting encounter with the Church of Saints Constantine and Empress Helena, designed by architect Jovan Mandić. He introduced elements of the Raška architectural school through the unusual addition of two towers. It was something I had never had a chance to see before. Niš also has places of worship of other faiths, such as its Roman Catholic Church, Adventist church, mosque and synagogue. Niš is a city that didn’t disappointed me for second. I will remember with a smile what the city taught me during those three days, the way it welcomed me and the feelings it awakened in me. The city of Empress Helena and Emperor Constantine, synonymous with cheerful Southern flair, is a city that has been described by writers through their works for decades. A city of history, culture and a good time. The which writer Stevan Sremac said about female beauty every traveller, guest or accidental passerby would say about Niš. And me, I can’t wait to get back there.

Skull Tower

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

This terrible cenotaph monument is the result of the Battle of Cegar, after which the Ottoman Turks, under the leadership of Hurshid Pasha, avenged their fallen brothers by gathering up the slain Serbian soldiers, decapitating them, skinning their bodies, filling them with cotton and sending them to the then Constantinople, before building the tower from their severed skulls. The tower consisted of 952 heads, but only 58 remain today. The monument was built on the road to Constantinople as a warning to those who would revolt against the Ottoman Empire. After this terrible but educational story, the city of Niš offered me some relaxation in the form of the Niška Banja wellness and spa centre: a true mini paradise in the south of Serbia. After a full day, I was ready to enjoy the southern Archaeological hall of the National Museum

JeLena iLiĆ

View of Niš fortress

JUŽNJAČKO SAVRŠENSTVO

vek me privlačila Srbija. Tamo odakle ja dolazim ljudi nisu upućeni u čari ove zemlje. Kada sam sletela na aerodrom Car Konstantin Veliki, bila je zora. Odmah sam pomislila da ću morati da čekam još nekoliko sati da se grad probudi. Ipak, nije bilo tako. Očigledno sam stigla u grad koji u svakom trenutku ima šta da ponudi. U avionu sam vreme provela čitajući turističke programe. Istražila sam mapu grada i najpre se zaputila u meraklijsku ulicu – Kazandžijsko sokače, na doručak u restoranu „Pležer“. Južnjačko savršenstvo na tanjiru za početak dana. Naravno, želela sam da ispunim čitav dan, pa sam krenula od „prvog poglavlja“ – na mesto koje većina ljudi smatra simbolom Niša. Krenula sam ka Tvrđavi. Ona se nalazi u središtu grada, na obali Nišave, potiče još s početka 17. veka. Izgleda impozantno, moram priznati. Od vodiča sam saznala da

U sklopu projekta razvoja programa turističkog, jednodnevnog, dvodnevnog i trodnevnog razgledanja Niša, Turistička organizacija grada objavila je programe sa najboljim ponudama turističkih agencija. Tekst koji je pred vama jedno je lično, izmaštano putovanje na tragu ovih preporuka. je rušena i obnavljana mnogo puta – od Rimljana, Slovena, Vizantinaca, Bugara... U Tvrđavi sam obišla Lapidarijum – zbirku nadgrobnih spomenika i Arsenal, koji se nalazi desno od glavne – Stambol kapije. Barutana, kazamati i druge građevine koje sačinjavaju Tvrđavu propraćene su uzbudljivim pričama. Pravo blago! Nakon edukativnog dela jutra, osetila sam potrebu za nečim laganijim kako bih kasnije nastavila obilazak istorijskih znamenitosti koje ovom gradu ne manjkaju. Vodič kao da mi je čitao misli, pa tako krenusmo u šetnju duž Nišave, odakle smo videli zgradu Banovine, prošli pored velike i cvetne pijace koja je mamila svojim obiljem, da bismo nakon prelaska mosta stigli do Obrenovićeve ulice, pešačke zone, i uklopili se među nasmejane Nišlije. Šetnja me pripremila za obilazak Narodnog muzeja. Bila sam uzbuđena zbog saznanja da su vitrine

i depoi Narodnog muzeja ispunjeni predmetima neprocenjive istorijske vrednosti. U muzejskim zbirkama nalazi se oko 40.000 predmeta iz oblasti arheologije, istorije, etnologije, istorije umetnosti, kulturne istorije i numizmatike. Zadivila me zbirka rimskog novca i živi susret s rimskim mozaicima. POKLONJENJE IMPERATORU I ZNAMENJE OSVETE Prvo buđenje u Nišu, mirisi kafe, doručka i zelenila. Ni za delić sekunde nisam se osetila kao stranac, skačem na noge, vidim grad je budan. Da biste osetili neki grad nije dovoljno da dan provedete u obilasku kulturne baštine i znamenitosti, već da radite sve ono što rade njegovi stanovnici. Time vođena, imala sam priliku da prisustvujem degustaciji i takmičenju u kupažiranju vina u elit-

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Kazandžijsko sokače Street nom restoranu „Regent klub“. Agencija koja mi je bila domaćin imala je širok izbor transfera do Medijane. Želela sam da vidim to luksuzno imanje cara Konstantina, najpoznatijeg rođenog Nišlije. Medijana je nedovoljno poznat lokalitet, na kome se nalaze ostaci grandioznog carskog imanja sa vilom, termama, zanatskim centrom... Uz živopisan opis vodiča mogla sam da zamislim svite senatora, generala i raznih drugih poslenika kako prolaze kroz monumentalnu kapiju vile i, po carskom protokolu, ulaze najpre u salutatorium – prostoriju za predstavljanje, da bi potom bili sprovedeni u salu za audijenciju (consitorium). Samo sam mogla da maštam o jelima i pićima kojima su služeni u sali za bankete (trichorumu). Iz rimskog doba i carskog protokola prešla sam put kroz vreme. Odveli su me da vidim Ćele-kulu. Toliko priča o njoj. Toliko priča, ali nijedna dovoljna da opiše taj osećaj strahopoštovanja kada stanete pred spomenik. Nigde na svetu ne postoji spomenik sličan tom. Ta strašna uspomena posledica je bitke na Čegru, nakon koje su Turci, pod rukom Huršidpaše, u znak osvete zbog poginulih Turaka, sakupili mrtve srpske vojnike, odrali im kože, napunili ih pamukom i poslali put Carigrada, a njihove lobanje uzidali u kulu. Kula se sastojala od 952 lobanje, od kojih je do danas ostalo samo 58. Spomenik je sagrađen na putu za Carigrad kao opomena onima što dižu bune protiv Turskog carstva. Nakon ove strašne, poučne priče, grad Niš mi je ponudio relaksaciju u vidu velnes i spa centra u

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Niškoj Banji. Pravi mali raj na jugu Srbije. Posle ispunjenog dana, bila sam spremna za uživanje u južnjačkoj hrani, Nišlije zaista znaju kako da ugoste. Opojni mirisi roštilja bi svaku dijetu bacili pod noge. Drugi dan u Nišu završio se duboko u noć, uz uživanje u besplatnim pićima koje je obezbedio vodič, u muzici i veselju. Theme from the Niška Spa

U ZNAKU DUHOVNOSTI Treći dan želela sam da provedem malo drugačije i, zahvaljujući agenciji, uspela sam u tome. Taj poslednji dan posvetila sam duhovnim saznanjima. Niš ima dugu hrišćansku tradiciju, koja potiče još iz četvrtog veka. Najpre smo posetili crkvu svetog Arhangela Mihaila – mali saborni hram koji se nalazi u velikoj crkvenoj porti. Ta crkva bila je glavni hram niške eparhije sve do osvećenja nove Saborne crkve. Bila mi je zanimljiva crkva svetog cara Konstantina i carice Jelene, koju je projektovao arhitekta Jovan Mandić. On je uneo elemente raške graditeljske škole, sa neuobičajenim dodatkom od dva zvonika, kakve ranije nisam imala prilike da vidim. U Nišu postoje i bogomolje drugih veroispovesti, kao što su rimokatolička crkva, adventistička crkva, džamija i sinagoga. Niš je grad koji me ni u jednom deliću sekunde nije razočarao. S radošću ću se sećati onoga što me naučio za tri dana, kako me ugostio i šta je probudio u meni. Grad carice Jelene i cara Konstantina, koji je sinonim vedrog južnjačkog duha, grad koji književnici decenijama opisuju u svojim delima. Grad istorije, kulture i dobrog provoda. Pa tako ono što je Stevan Sremac rekao za žensku lepotu, reći će svaki putnik, gost ili slučajni prolaznik kroz Niš. A ja, ja jedva čekam da se tamo vratim . JeLena iLiĆ

SPRING TOURISM FAIR OFFER OF SERBIA, OFFER OF THE REGION Niš will host the 12th International Tourism Fair from 8th to 10th April, organised by the city’s tourism organisation. The City of Niš, as a town that many of the region’s customers of tourism services gravitate towards, is an unavoidable destination for every serious tourism offer. With the announced attendance of over 100 foreign and local participants, numerous exhibitors will have the opportunity – on an exhibition area of around 1,000m2 – to present the most interesting parts of the tourism offer of Serbia and the region. As such, we invite you to participate and visit our Spring Tourism Fair. In that way you will become an integral part of the tourism experience and will experience Niš, comfortable bliss and the spirit of a city that is becoming ever more recognisable on the tourist map of Serbia and Europe.

PROLEĆNI SAJAM TURIZMA PONUDA SRBIJE, PONUDA REGIONA Od 8 do 10. aprila u Nišu se održava 12. međunarodni sajam turizma, koji organizuje Turistička organizacija grada. Grad Niš, kao centar ka kome gravitiraju brojni kupci turističkih usluga iz celog regiona, nezaobilazno je mesto za svaku ozbiljniju turističku ponudu. Brojni izlagači, a najavljeno je prisustvo više od 100 inostranih i domaćih učesnika, imaće mogućnost da na oko 1000 metara kvadratnih izlagačkog prostora predstave ono što je danas najzanimljivije u turističkoj ponudi Srbije i regiona. Stoga vas pozivamo da učestvujete i posetite naš prolećni Sajam turizma. Tako ćete postati sastavni deo turističke priče i doživeli Niš, merak i duh grada

INFO | NIŠ TOURIST ORGANISATION OF NIŠ TPC Kalča II sprat, lamela C, lok 62 Tel. + 381 18 524-877 ton1@open.telekom.rs www.nistourism.org.rs Niš Tourist Information Centre Voždova 7 Tel. +381 18 523-118, 521-321 ton2@open.telekom.rs Niš Fortress Information Centre Stambol Kapija, Monday - Saturday: 9am to 5pm Sunday – 10am to 3pm Tel: 018/250222 Niška Banja Tourist Information Centre Sinđelićeva 3b, 18205 Niška Banja Tel. +381 18 4548-588

HOTELS ALEKSANDAR *** Njegoševa 81 a Tel. 018/562-333 AMBASADOR *** Trg kralja Milana bb Tel. 018/501-800, 501-997 MY PLACE - BEST WESTERN **** Kej 29. decembar bb Tel. 018/525-555 NAIS*** Autoput NI-BG Tel. 018/601-599,601-030 NIŠKI CVET Kej 29. decembar2 Tel. 018/297-700

NIŠLIJSKA MEHANA Prvomajska 49 I Jadranska bb Tel. 018/511-111 ORAČ Knjaževačka 3 Tel. 018/214-124 PREMIJER Vizantisjki bulevar bb Tel. 018/206-106 REGENT CLUB Obrenovićeva 10 Tel. 018/524-520 SINĐELIĆ Nikole Pašića 36 Tel. 018/512-548

MUSEUMS

PANORAMA LUX*** Svetolika Rankovića 51 Tel. 018/561-214

National Museum, Niš Generala Milojka Lešjanina 14 Tel. 018/513-430

TAMI RESIDENCE HOTEL Durmitorska - prilaz bb Tel.018/505-800, 282-222

Archaelogical Hall of the National Museum Nikole Pašića 59 Tel. 018/511-531

RESTAURANTS AMERIKANAC Kovanlučka 10 Tel. 018/594-489

Archaelogical site Mediana Bulevar cara Konstantina bb Tel.018/550-433

BISER Koste Stamenkovića 1 Tel. 018/248-205

Tower of Skulls Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića bb Tel.018/222-228

GALIJA Nikole Pašića 35 Tel. 018/515-626

Concentration Camp Crveni krst Bulevar 12. februar bb Tel.018/588-889 Memorial Complex Čegar Tel. 018/651-145, 064/203 6204

HAMAM Tvrđava bb Tel. 018/513-447

TRI FENJERA Anete Andrejević 8a Tel. 018/525-200 VICOLO Milentijeva 2 Tel. 018/288-218 TRAVEL Tsar Constantin the Great Airport Vazduhoplovaca 24 Tel. 018/580-023 www.nis-airport.com Central Bus Station Bulevar 12. februar bb Tel. 018/255-177, 255-666 www.nis-ekspres.rs

KRČMA VERIGE KATENA MUNDI Ive Lole Ribara 7a Tel. 018/513-323

Central Train Station Dimitrija Tucovića bb Tel.018/ 264-625, 291-320 www.zelecnicesrbije.com

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

WEEKEND IN KRUŠEVAC

LAZAR’S CITY

ny introduction to the medieval and future (if you believe the Serbian Nostradamus) capital of Serbia should start with a visit to the Archaeological Park known as Lazar’s City. It contains the remains of fortifications, a court church, a monument to Prince Lazar and the National Museum. Kruševac carefully preserves the memory of this prince, who erected the city as his new capital in 1371. This was a period of growth for the Ottoman Empire and Prince Lazar was seeking to preserve the country from the threat of an inevitable Turkish invasion for as long as possible by moving its capital to Serbia’s northern lands. Military fortifications based on the Kruševac model were built throughout the

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Kruševac, the medieval capital of the Serbian state, lies about 200 km south of Belgrade and has a history deeply woven into Serbia’s ethics, culture and tradition. Kruševac has long since lost its status as capital, but the future reversal of its fortunes were predicted by folk prophet Mitar Tarabić, who said that it would again become an imperial city.

then Moravian Serbia. Despite being under the shadow of the expected war, Lazar’s reign was marked by the remarkable development of arts and culture. DEFENCE & MARTYRDOM Prince Lazar, constructor of Kruševac, managed to strengthen the country: developing mining, manufacturing and trade with Venice and the Dubrovnik Republic. The capital city was at the heart of this boom and Lazar built it in just a few years. The city sprawled over a large area and was surrounded by wide ram-

parts. Also testifying to its size are the ruins of the city’s main dungeon tower, which is 18 metres tall. Within the walls there was a royal palace with associated buildings, while beyond the walls was a civilian settlement and town square. Learned men and artists gathered at the court of Princess Milica, great-great-niece of Stefan Nemanja, founder of Serbia’s then ruling Nemanjić Dynasty. Within the walls of the medieval castle, today’s Archaeological Park, is a monument to Prince Lazar, depicting him as a warrior willing to sacrifice himself for the freedom and dignity of the nation. The complex also includes a court church, the famous Lazarica, where, according to legend, the Serbian Army met prior to the Battle of Kosovo in 1389. Prince Lazar was slain in that famous battle, leaving Serbia to fall under the Ottoman yoke as a vassal state. The whole city is filled with vivid memories and symbols of that famous and tragic battle. The monument to Kosovo heroes dominates the central city square. This monumental sculptural composition, the work of Djordje Jovanovic, won a prize at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900. Monument to Prince Lazar

THE WORLD’S HOTTEST ROCK From Kruševac, then the centre of the country, influence spread over the whole country. Following the example of Lazarica, many religious buildings were constructed during the late 14th century and the first half of the 15th century, characterised by a special style known as the Moravian School. The finest examples of Moravian architecture are the churches of Ravanica Monastery and the monasteries of Manasija, Ljubostinja, Kalenić, Veluće, Rudenica and Naupara. The artistic achievements of the Moravia school represent top examples of medieval art. Modern art historians estimate that this style is the most original in Serbian architecture. Although developed as a combination of many borrowed elements, originality was achieved through bold combinations previously unseen in Europe and the Orient. Interestingly, the magnificent decorative stone of the churches was shaped from white-water sandstone extracted from a site near Kruševac. The extraordinary stability of the stone is said to have seen it certified as the world’s hottest rock. Whether because of the warm stone, imaginative construction maestros or generous benefactors, the churches of the Moravian school developed their charm with picturesque beauty. COLOURFUL TOWN The Ottoman Turks conquered Kruševac in 1454 and made it the seat of their Sanjak (district). They called it Aladža Hisar, colourful city, because

Detail from the Lazarica Church that’s how it appeared when viewed from the hill above: with a fortress of black and white stone in the middle, surrounded by fields adorned with vineyards. Turkish rule of the city lasted almost 400 years, but the city’s new name did not survive. According to tradition, Kruševac owes its name to pears (kruškama), which were plentiful in this area, but it’s more likely that the name originated from the Moravian kruškara stone, which was used to build the capital. Today the city is surrounded by many vineyards. The wines of this region are of extremely good quality and some of them are named after Prince Lazar, Empress Milica, Terra Lazarica. You should try them in one of the many restaurants and cafes, alongside local culinary specialities. Of the city’s interesting historical sites we would highlight the restored House of Simić (18th century), which includes an exhibition of furniture and furnishings from the early 20th century. You should not miss a tour of the Milića od Mačve Gallery, legacy of this famous painter of 120 pictures depicting scenes from Serbian history, or the Mosaic Hall

within the City Hall, which is dedicated to Moravian Serbia and the personalities and events from the period when Kruševac was the political and spiritual centre of Serbia. Bearing witness to the history of the town is the large collection of the National Museum, which is located in one of Serbia’s most beautiful buildings. A number of cultural events are organised in Kruševac: the Vidovdan Ceremony, Cultural Summer, sculptors colony Belovodska rosettes, Golden Helmet – International festival of humour and satire – and Theatrical Days, organised by the Kruševac National Theatre, one of the most respected in the country. There are even more attractive location in the area surrounding the city. The favoured destination for Kruševac locals is Jastrebac Mountain. Here there are good hunting grounds and fishing areas, walking cycling and hiking trails, as well as plenty of accommodation and recreation facilities. Beneath Jastrebac lies the Fishermen’s Spa, a unique health oasis and an ideal spot for rest and recovery. According to legend, this was the favourite spot of Prince Lazar, Princess Milica, and lady courtiers, who took advantage of the benefits of the warm, healing springs and were renowned for their beauty. rOZana SaZDiĆ Photography: Dragan Bosnić & TO Kruševac Archive

Entrance to the Lazarica churchyard

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

INFO: Turistička organizacija Kruševac Majke Jugovića br.3 37000 Kruševac Tel: 037/440-332, 440-332 www.turizamkrusevac.com

Monument to the heroes of Kosovo

LAZAREV GRAD Prestonica srpske države u srednjem veku – Kruševac, nalazi se na oko 200 kilometara južno od Beograda. Njegova istorija duboko je utkana u srpsku etiku, kulturu i tradiciju. Kruševac je odavno izgubio status glavnog grada, ali je preokret njegove sudbine u budućnosti nagovestio narodni prorok Mitar Tarabić, rekavši da će on ponovo biti carski grad

poznavanje sa srednjovekovnom i, ako je verovati srpskom Nostradamusu, budućom prestonicom Srbije valja početi obilaskom Arheološkog parka„Lazarev grad“. U njemu se nalaze ostaci utvrđenja, dvorska crkva, spomenik knezu Lazaru i Narodni muzej. Kruševac budno čuva uspomenu na kneza, koji ga je podigao 1371. godine kao svoju novu prestonicu. Bilo je to doba širenja Osmanlijskog carstva, pa je knez, pomerajući središte države u severne oblasti, želeo što duže da sačuva zemlju pred ratnom pretnjom i neminovnim sukobom s turskom silom. Vojna utvrđenja po uzoru na

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Kruševac građena su u čitavoj tadašnjoj Moravskoj Srbiji. Iako pod senkom nagoveštenog rata, doba njegove vladavine obeleženo je izuzetnim razvojem umetnosti i kulture. ODBRANA I ŽRTVA Knez Lazar, graditelj Kruševca, uspeo je da osnaži državu: razvio je rudarstvo, zanatstvo, trgovao sa Mletačkom i Dubrovačkom republikom. Prestoni grad bio je središte tog procvata. Knez ga je podigao za svega nekoliko godina. Grad se prostirao na velikoj površini, bio je opasan širokim bedemom, a

o njegovoj veličini govore i ostaci glavne gradske donžon kule, koja je visoka 18 metara. Unutar zidina nalazila se dvorska palata sa pratećim građevinama, a izvan bedema civilno naselje sa trgom. Učene ljude i umetnike na dvoru je okupljala kneginja Milica, čukununuka Stefana Nemanje, rodonačelnika srpske vladarske dinastije Nemanjić. Unutar zidina srednjovekovnog grada, današnjeg „Arheološkog parka“, nalazi se spomenik knezu Lazaru. Knez je prikazan kao ratnik spreman da se žrtvuje za slobodu i čast zemlje. U kompleksu se nalazi i dvorska crkva, čuvena Lazarica, u kojoj

istoričari umetnosti ocenjuju ovaj stil kao najoriginalniji u srpskoj arhitekturi. Iako je nastao kao spoj mnogih preuzetih elementa, originalnost je postignuta smelim kombinacijama koje dotad nisu viđene u Evropi i na Orijentu. Zanimljivo je to što je raskošna dekorativna kamena plastika na crkvama oblikovana od belovodskog peščara, koji je vađen iz nalazišta u blizini Kruševca. Za taj kamen izvanredne postojanosti kažu da je atestiran kao najtopliji kamen na svetu. Da li zbog toplog kamena, maštovitih majstora ili darežljivih ktitora, crkve Moravske škole plene svojom živopisnom lepotom. Church of St. Nikola se, po predanju, pred boj na Kosovu 1389. godine, pričestila srpska vojska. Knez Lazar je stradao u bici, a Srbija potom potpala u vazalni položaj. Čitav grad je prožet sećanjem i živim simbolima te čuvene i tragične bitke. Spomenik kosovskim junacima dominira centralnim gradskim trgom. Ta monumentalna kompozicija vajarski je rad Đorđa Jovanovića, koja je dobila nagradu na Svetskoj izložbi u Parizu 1900. godine. NAJTOPLIJI KAMEN NA SVETU Iz Kruševca, tadašnjeg centra zemlje, širio se uticaj na celu državu. Po uzoru na Lazaricu je krajem 14. i u prvoj polovini 15. veka izgrađeno više sakralnih objekata, koji se odlikuju posebnim stilom nazvanim Moravska škola. Najreprezentativniji primeri moravske arhitekture su crkve manastira Ravanica, te manastiri Manasija, Ljubostinja, Kalenić, Veluće, Rudenica i Naupara. Umetnički dometi Moravske škole pripadaju samom vrhu srednjovekovne umetnosti. Savremeni

ŠARENI GRAD Turci su osvojili Kruševac 1454. godine, te on postaje sedište sandžaka. Nazvali su ga Aladža Hisar, Šareni grad, jer im je tako izgledala varoš na bregu, sa tvrđavom od crnog i belog kamena sred okolnih polja okićenih vinogradima. Turci su stolovali bezmalo 400 godina, ali se ime grada nije zadržalo. Po jednom predanju, Kruševac ime duguje kruškama, kojih je u ovom kraju bilo u izobilju, a verovatnije je da naziv potiče od moravskog kamena – kruškara koji je korišćen za izgradnju prestonice. Danas u okolini grada ima mnogo vinograda, vina sa ovog područja su izuzetno dobrog kvaliteta, a neka od njih nose ime Car Lazar, Carica Milica, Terra Lazarica. Trebalo bi ih probati u nekom od brojnih restorana i kafana, uz specijalitete domaće kuhinje. Od zanimljivih istorijskih tačaka izdvajamo restauriranu Kuću Simića (18. vek), u kojoj su izloženi nameštaj i pokućstva s početka 20. veka. Ne treba propustiti ni obilazak Galerije Milića od Old post office

Mačve, legat čuvenog slikara od 120 slika sa tematikom iz srpske istorije, te Mozaik salu u Gradskoj skupštini posvećenu Moravskoj Srbiji, ličnostima i događajima iz vremena kada je Kruševac bio političko i duhovno središte Srbije. O istoriji grada svedoči i veliki fond Narodnog muzeja, koji je smešten u jednoj od najlepših zgrada u Srbiji. U Kruševcu se organizuje čitav niz kulturnih manifestacija: „Vidovdanske svečanosti“, „Kulturno leto“, vajarska kolonija „Belovodska rozeta“, „Zlatna kaciga“ – međunarodni festival humora i satire, i „Pozorišni dani“, koje priprema kruševačko Narodno pozorište, jedno od najcenjenijih u zemlji. U okolini grada ima više atraktivnih lokacija. Omiljena destinacija Kruševljana je planina Jastrebac. Postoje dobri tereni za lov i ribolov, uređene staze za šetnju, biciklizam i planinarenje i dosta objekata za smeštaj i rekreaciju. Podno Jastrepca nalazi se Ribarska Banja, jedinstvena oaza zdravlja i idealno mesto za odmor i oporavak. Prema legendi, bila je omiljena knezu Lazaru i kneginji Milici, i dvorskim damama koje su koristile blagotvornost toplih, lekovitih izvora i bile čuvene po lepoti. rOZana SaZDiĆ Fotografije: Dragan Bosnić i Arhiva TO Kruševac Dungeon tower of Lazar’s City

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

Churhc of St. George on Oplenac G

MOZAIC OF SERBIA 2011 Glob Tours Metropolitan pays special attention to receptive tourism and its offer includes a wide range of travel options in Serbia, Belgrade sightseeing, Balkan trips, special tours, wine tours, historical tours ... Its best recommendation is a list of satisfied passengers who include, amongst others, members of the diplomatic corps and foreigners living in Serbia.

he 2011 travel programme is entitled Mosaic of Serbia. Tourist tours are designed as one-day or two-day weekend trips. All of the catalogue’s programmes have guaranteed departure times, fixed dates and exceptionally reasonable promotional prices. We present you with a selection of trips that allow you, from early spring to late autumn, to spend an interesting weekend.

Smederevo fortress

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

AROUND ŠUMADIJA & VOJVODINA From the start of spring you can travel the Topola and Oplenac road every Saturday. This part of Serbia is called Šumadija, inferring that the landscape is forested (Šuma means forest), and is known for its gentle, undulating landscape and as the cradle of the modern Serbian state. In the picturesque town of Topola lies Karađorđev City, built by the leader of First Serbian Uprising and the first ruler of the restored Serbia: Karađorđe (Black Georgie) Petrović. On Oplenac Hill above the town of Topola you will have a chance to see

the endowment of the Karađorđević Dynasty and the family mausoleum. The Church of St. George at Oplenac is known for its impressive mosaics depicting the most beautiful medieval Serbian frescoes. The entire region is famous for its wines, thus presenting an opportunity to taste wines in the nearby village of Vinča: products of the Alexandrović Winery. You can familiarise yourself with the richness of the cultural heritage of Vojvodina by travelling to Novi Sad, Sremski Karlovci and Fruška Gora. Novi Sad is one of the most interesting city break destination in the country. Here you will see a city of interesting architecture and spirit that has been generated by Serbs, Hungarians, Austrians, Croats, Germans, Jews, Greeks, Armenians and others. You will tour Petrovaradin Fortress, the city’s guardian and root of its emergence. This huge Baroque fortification is known as the Gibraltar of the Danube. With its monumental architecture, fortifications and strategic position, Petrovaradin ranks among Europe’s most significant fortifications. After the fortress, your journey continues to the picturesque Baroque town of Sremski Karlovci, aka Karlowitz. Here you will visit one of Serbia’s oldest Orthodox spiritual centres and the country’s oldest high school and seminary school. The trip ends at Krušedol, one of the country’s largest and most important monasteries. DANUBE TREASURE & NAIVE CAPITAL From the catalogue of one-day trips we recommend the Danube Route programme, through which you will be introduced to two of Serbia’s archaeological gems: the prehistoric site of Vinča and the Roman settlement of Viminacium. The archaeological site of Vinča hides a long period of history known as the period of the Vinča culture. The layers of sediment are a full ten metres deep and hide the remains of the past from Neolithic times to the present day. There are few places in the world that can boast a line of existence lasting more than seven thousand years! This is why Vinča is one of the region’s most important monuments of culture. The other archaeological gem you will find on this trip is Viminacium. This former capital of the Roman province of Upper Moesia was destroyed in the mid-5th century and remained forgotten and buried like Pompeii, which disappeared under a flood of lava. This analogy, but

Petrovradin fortress also the fact that the remains of this Roman town and military camp represent a treasure, is why Viminacium has been dubbed the Balkan Pompeii. The next destination is Smederevo. An exciting part of getting acquainted with this city is the tour of Jerina City - a medieval fortress on the Danube built to resemble Constantinople. The city had as many as 25 towers and covered an area of ten hectares. In terms of size, Smederevo Fortress is considered one of Europe’s largest lowland forts. If this story appeals to you, note the following travel dates: 13th May and 2nd September. Would you like to take a trip to a village that has a river, a desert and global renown? If so, the catalogue presents proposed trips to Kovačica. Popular website Wikipedia explains: “Kovačica is of great importance to the world map of naïve art and represents its own kind of naïve metropolis. For more than 40 years this small village has amazed the world with its art, especially painting.” At Kovačica’s Gallery of Naïve Art you will become acquainted with the works of contemporary painters and the founder of this celebrated school of art. You will tour the studio of Zuzana Veresky, an artist known for her pictures “erupting” with flowers. A visit to violinmaker Jan Nemček will complete your picture of this ethnically Slovak village inhabited by extremely creative people. Nearby Idvor is the birthplace of world renowned scientist Mihajlo Pupin. The setting you will have a chance to see depicts the life of this great scientist. You will also see an exhibition of handmade items and spend time in the beautiful nature of Debeljačko Lake. If

you miss the first date for this programme on the route to the “Capital of Naïve” (10th June), you can also take the trip on 7th October. ROAD TO THE WEST, THE HEART, THE EAST & THE SOUTH The 2011 catalogue offers a range of two-day programmes. The list includes Zlatibor, the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge, Mećavnik and the Šargan Eight Narrow-gauge railway (27th May and 16th September). The Šumadija - Heart of Serbia programme includes a tour of the City of Kraljevo, Vrnjačka Spa and the monasteries of Žiče, Studenica and Ljubostinje (1st April and 22nd July). A tour of Eastern Serbia is designed in the programme Archaeological Treasure. During this trip you will get acquainted with Viminacium, Golubac, Lepenski Vir, Kladovo and the monasteries of Ravanica and ResavaManasija. Travel dates are 25th March and 19th August. You can also familiarise yourself with southern Serbia from an alternative perspective – while staying at the chalets of the Monastery of St. Prohor Pčinjski, which lies in crystal clear nature on the bank of the river of the same name - Pčinja. This trip has two scheduled dates: 29th April and 24th June. If you miss any of the scheduled dates or would like to make your own itinerary and have a desire to get to know Serbia from a different perspective, Glob Metropoliten will put together a trip according to your wishes. BELGUEST INFO: Glob Metropoliten Tours Lufthansa City Centre Makenzijeva 26, Belgrade, Serbia Tel/ fax: +381 11 2430 852/2430 899 glob@metropol iten.com www.metropoliten.com www.travelserbiabelgrade.com

BelGuest WINTER | ZIMA 2010/11

Viminacijum G

MOZAIK SRBIJA 2011 Glob Metropoliten Tours posebnu pažnju poklanja receptivnom turizmu i u ponudi ima veliki izbor putovanja po Srbiji, razgledanje Beograda, putovanja po Balkanu, specijalne ture, vinske ture, istorijske ture…Najbolja preporuka je lista zadovoljnih putnika koju, između ostalog, čini diplomatski kor i stranci koji žive u Srbiji.

rogram putovanja za 2011. godinu nosi naslov Mozaik Srbije. Turističke ture su oblikovane kao jednodnevni ili dvodnevni vikend izleti. Svi programi u katalogu imaju garantovane polasake, fiksne datume i izuzetno povoljne promotivne cene. Predstavljamo vam izbor putovanja na kojima, od ranog proleća do kasne jeseni, možete provesti zanimljive vikende. PO ŠUMADIJI I VOJVODINI Od početka proleća, svake subote možete krenuti put Topole i Oplenca. Ovaj deo Srbije zove se Šumadija – što znači predeo obrastao šumom. Poznat je po pitomim brežuljkastim pejsažima ali, i kao kolevka moderne srpske države. U pitoresknom gradiću Topoli nalazi se Karađorđev grad koji je sagradio vođa Prvog srpskog ustanka i prvi vladar obnovljene Srbije - Karađorđe Petrović. Na brdu Oplenac, iznad Topole, posebnu pažnju privlači zadužbina dinastije Karađorđević i porodični

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Mauzolej. Crkva svetog Đorđa na Oplencu poznata je po impozantnim mozaicima na kojima su predstavljene najlepše srpske srednjovekovne freske. Čitava regija je čuvena po vinima, pa je to prilika za degustaciju vina koja, u obližnjem selu Vinča, proizvodi vinarija Aleksandrović. Bogatstvo kulturnog nasleđa Vojvodine možete upoznati na putovanju za Novi Sad, Sremske Karlovce i Frušku goru. Novi Sad je jedna od najzanimljivijih city break destinaciju u zemlji. Videćete jedan grad zanimljive arhitekture i duha, koju su stvarali Srbi, Mađari, Austrijanci, Hrvati, Nemci, Jevreji, Grci, Jermeni… Prošetaćete Petrovaradinskom tvrđavom koja je čuvar i prauzrok nastanka grada. Ova velika barokna građevina naziva se Gibraltar na Dunavu, koja svojom monumentalnom arhitekturom, fortifikacijom i strateškim položajem, spada među njaznačajnija utvrđenja Evrope. Posle Tvrđave, put se nastavlja ka slikovitom baroknom gradiću - Sremskim Karlovcima, jednom od naših najstarijih pravoslavnih duhovnih centara, sa najstarijom gimnazijom i bogoslovskom školom. Nedeljni izlet se završava u Krušedolu, jednom od najznačajnijih i najvećih fruškogorskih manastira.

Da li biste pošli na izlet u jedno selo koje ima reku, pustinju i svetsku slavu ? Tako je u katalogu predstavljen sadržaj izleta u Kovačicu. U Vikipediji je zapisano: „Kovačica ima veliki značaj na mapi svetskog naivnog slikarstva i predstavlja svojevrsnu metropolu naive. Ovo malo selo duže od četrdeset godina zadivljuje svet svojom umetnošću, a posebno slikarstvom.“ U Galeriji naivne umetnosti Kovačice upoznaćete se s delima rodonačelnika i savremenih slikara ove proslavljene škole. Obići ćete i atelje Zuzane Vereski, umetnice koja je poznata po slikama s erupcijom cveća. Poseta proizvođaču violina Janu Nemečeku, dopuniće vam sliku ovog slovačkog sela u kojem žive izuzetno kreativni ljudi. U obližnjem Idvoru, rodio se i naučnik svetskog glasa Mihailo Pupin. Postavka koju ćete imati prilke da vidite prikazuje životni put ovog velikog naučnika. Videćete još i izložbu ručnih radova i boraviti u lepoj prirodi Debeljačkih jezera. Ako propustite 10. jun - prvi termin ovog programa, na put u Metropolu naive možete krenuti i 7. oktobra.

PUT ZAPADA, SRCA, ISTOKA I JUGA Katalog za 2011. godinu nudi vam i niz raznovrsnih dvodnevnih programa. Na listi su Zlatibor, Ovčarskokablarska klisura, Zlatibor, Mećavnik i Šarganska osmica (27. maj i 16. septembar). Program sa nazivom Šumadija - Srce Srbije, uključuje obilazak Kraljeva, Vrnjačke Banje, manastira Žiče, Studenice i Ljubostinje (1. april i 22. jul). Obilazak istočne Srbije osmišljen je u programu Arheološko bogatstvo. Na ovom putovanju upoznaćete Viminacium, Golubac, Lepenski Vir, Kladovo i manastire Ravanicu, Resavu i Manasiju. Termini putovanja su 25. mart i 19. avgust. Južni deo Srbije možete upoznati iz jedne drugačije perspektive – boraveći u Konacima manastira sveti Prohor Pčinjski, koji se nalaze u kristalno čistoj prirodi, na obali istoimene reke Pčinje. Ovo putovanje ima dva zakazana termina: 29. april i 24. jun. Ako propustite neki od termina ili želite da napravite neki svoj itinerer i imate želju da upoznate Srbiju iz nekog drugačijeg ugla, Glob Metropoliten će vam organizovati putovanje po želji. BeLGUeSt

Prohor Pčinjski Monastery

BLAGA DUNAVA I METROPOLA NAIVE Iz kataloga jednodnevnih putovanja izdvajamo program sa nazivom Put Dunava, na kojem ćete upoznati dva arheološka bisera Srbije – praistorijsko nalazište Vinču i rimski Viminacijum. Po arheološkom nalazištu Vinča, jedno dugačko razdoblje istorije naziva se periodom vinčanske kulture. Sloj nalaza ima čitavih deset metara i krije ostatke prošlosti od neolita do naših dana. Sigurno nema mnogo mesta na svetu koja se mogu podičiti trajanjem dugim više od sedam hiljada godina! Zato je Vinča jedan od najznačajniji spomenika kulture na ovim prostorima. Drugi arheološki biser koji ćete upoznati na ovom putovanju je Viminacijum. Ovaj nekadašnji glavni grad rimske provincije Gornje Mezije uništen je sredinom 5. veka i ostao zaboravljen pod zemljom kao Pompeji, koji su nestali pod naletom lave. Ta analogija, ali i činjenica da ostaci rimskog grada i vojnog logora predstavljaju svetski dragulj, razlog su što je Viminacijum dobio naziv Balkanski Pompeji. Sledeća destinacija je Smedervo. Uzbudljiv deo upoznavanja s gradom je obilazak „Jerininog grada“ – srednjovekovnog utvrđenja na obali Dunava koje je zidano po ugledu na Carigrad. Grad je imao čak 25 kula i prostirao se na površini od desetak hektara. Zbog veličine, Smederevska tvrđava se smatra jednom od najvećih ravničarskih utvrđenja u Evropi. Ako vas je privukla ova priča, zabeležite sledeće datume putovanja: 13. maj i 2. septembar.

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

ZLATIBORSKA NOĆ

IN FRONT OF THE MOUNTAINS

U PREDVORJU PLANINA

Recently built, the Zlatiborska noć complex is located nearby Užice, in the middle of healthy and picturesque natural resort placed at the very “gate” of Zlatibor, Tara, Sirogojno and Mokra Gora. Last October at the Novi Sad tourist fair, the Zlatiborska noć complex received two prestigious awards – “Tourist Prism” and “Grand Golden Medal” .

Na samoj kapiji Zlatibora, Tare, Sirogojna i Mokre gore, u blizini Užica, nalazi se novoizgrađeni hotelski kompleks Zlatiborska noć. Zlatiborska noć je, u oktobru, na Novosadskom sajmu turizma dobila dva prestižna i značajna priznanja - Turističku prizmu i Veliku zlatnu medalju Novosadskog sajma.

ecause of the proximity of villages, the hotel offers a great variety of healthy food and famous to its guests including local specialties typical for the Užice region: cheese, kajmak, smoked ham, flat bred with ham and cheese, to name just a few. The ambiance in a restaurant with 170 seats, small hall with 60 and brewery with 120 seats, recreates the authentic local style. The interior as well as the architecture capture one with the harmony of used materials – natural wood and stone while modern materials emit warmth and comfort. The hotel has superbly equipped rooms and suites. Being surrounded by the well known tourist destinations of the regions of Užice and Zlatibor, Zlatiborska noc hotel is ideal for organizing very comfortable and interesting tours and picnics. A common trend in modern business is a need of a businessman to organize certain activities outside of his institutions. Following that trend, a congress hall was built within the hotel. Despite the fact that it opened up relatively recently, the hotel has fast become a leader of tourist development in the region. In May, a cocktail party was organized for high state officials, the President and the Prime Minister of Serbia and members of the cabinet. More and more foreign visitors are among the content guests of the hotel.

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

lizina seoskog područja ovom hotelu pruža izuzetnu ponudu zdrave hrane, užickih i zlatiborskih specijaliteta. Sir, kajmak, pršuta, poznata užicka komplet lepinja – samo su deo nadaleko čuvenih proizvoda u ponudi restorana. Restoran od 170 mesta, mala sala od 60 i pivnica od 120 mesta ambijentalno su ukomponovani u autentičan stil podneblja. Enterijer i arhitektura plene harmonijom punog drveta, kamena i modernih materijala. Hotel raspolaže vrhunski opremljenim sobama i apartmanima. Lokacija hotela nudi idealne uslove za organizovanje izleta, jer se nalazi u okruženju najpoznatijih turističkim destinacijama užickog i zlatiborskog kraja. U okviru hotela izgrađena je kongresna sala od 100 mesta, sa multimedijalnom opremom i ostalim sredstvima neophodnim za poslovne sastanke. Uprkos relativno skorom početku rada, INFO: hotel je za kratko vreme postao lider Zlatiborska noć razvoja turizma užickog kraja. U hotelu je 31311 Bela Zemlja organizovan prijem za visoke državne tel: +381 (0) 31 572 910 zvanice, predsednika i premijera Srbije i fax: +381 (0) 31 572 860 članove vlade, a među zadovoljnim koriszlatiborskanoc@nadlanu.com nicima usluga Zlatiborske noći sve je veci www.zlatiborskanoc.rs broj stranaca.

Panoramic view of old Jerusalem

B E L G U E S T

T R A V E L O G U E

I S R A E L

MIRACULOUS ALLOY FROM THE SMELTERS OF LEVANT The dictionary does not include a word that comes even remotely close to summing up the many faces of modern Israel. This multifaceted country of enduring people, resolvable and irreconcilable differences, modesty and luxury, hyper-modern and ancient; land of the displaced and of open wounds, country of pilgrimages, holiest of holies, suffering, long memories...

his travelogue begins at Tel Aviv’s airport, a hyper-modern aerodrome named after the father of the state of Israel: Ben Gurion. In the land of the Jewish nation we are welcomed by to the Menorah – a seven-branched candelabrum that, here, is set as a stylised sculpture at the exit to the airport building. We are heading for Tel Aviv – city of light and skyscrapers. Our destination: The Crowne Plaza Hotel on the Mediterranean coast, where we arrive late at night. The view cannot catch the bay, while lights blink on high buildings – mostly housing hotels of famous international

chains. Though it is already late, I want to feel the city. Accompanied by Marina Deleon, representative of the host from Belgrade and PR consultant of Airport City, I set off on a short nocturnal stroll. Residential streets with beautiful courtyards are reminiscent of some Belgrade neighbourhoods like Neimar. Midnight has come and gone, but life carries on in the cafes, bistros and restaurants of the boulevards. Many, many young people are adorned in European style. For the time of night that’s nothing unusual, but even during the day one encounters many young faces and lots of children

on the streets. Israel not only appears to be, but in terms of statistics is, a country of young people and new generations. MORNING BESIDE THE MEDITERRANEAN Dawn reveals a sunny, blue morn and the Jerusalem Post is first brought to our room. I head down to the breakfast hall and cannot believe my eyes. A Nile-blue sky and sea have rushed in through the windows, creating a crystal scene and filling the eye with beauty, while the introduction to the offerings is an experience of its own. Masses

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

of different of breads, salads, spreads, cheeses etc., scents of spices. Time is short and so we hit the road. We turn our backs to the sea and set eyes on the sunlit face of Tel Aviv. Neighbourhoods of single-storey buildings have been inhabited by grandiose skyscrapers and commercial buildings. This is the fascinating architectural look of Ramat Gan – the centre of the world’s diamond trade. We are heading for Jerusalem. The landscape along the coast of Israel boasts luxurious Mediterranean vegetation, but the terrain soon begins to change as we head through undulating land and then high hilly regions with sparse vegetation. ENCOUNTERING JERUSALEM We approach Jerusalem, entering the town from the direction of the Mount of Olives. In one amazing, breathtaking moment the expanse of the Judean desert appears, revealed above the ridge of Jerusalem. It still uninhabited today and it crosses my mind that this arid land looked the same through the eyes of Jesus Christ, his apostles and other prophets, kings, warriors... We are heading down the slopes of the Mount of Olives when we stop at a viewing point offering a view directly over the walls of the old town: the golden Dome of the Rock on its cobalt blue base dominate the panorama. This is Al-Aqsa Mosque, the Muslim shrine located on the site of the destroyed Temple

Church of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem. According to the Bible, it was on this very hill, this rock, that Abraham raised his hand to Isaac. Overlooking this ancient city that is most deeply respected by the Jews, Christians and Muslims, one becomes aware that full knowledge of this place can never be achieved – each fibre of Jerusalem oozes memories and is immersed in history.

THE WAILING WALL & THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE We arrive at Jaffa Gate and enter the embrace of the walls of this the world’s holiest city. The path leads through the Armenian Quarter and our guide shows us the main Roman traders’ street, via Cardo, which is huge even by today’s standards. The atmosphere of the Roman period is illustrated vividly by modern murals depicting scenes from the life of A ‘shuk’ in Jerusalem’s old town

100

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Garden of the Herzliya hotel complex this former main market. We move to the Jewish Quarter and meet Orthodox Jews dressed according to the ancient laws of the Torah. We are approaching the Wailing Wall - holiest of holy sites for the Jewish people. With the utmost respect I enter the women’s area and watch how engrossed the Jewish ladies are as they recite prayers. It is difficult to reach the Wall. Women are touching the stone blocks with their bodies and hands, committed to praying and stuffing pieces of paper with petitions to God into the cracks between the stones. I think about the longevity of this nation, which yearned for so many centuries and finally awaited the free destruction of the remaining western wall of its ruined temple. We next head to the Christian quarter, briefly passing through the picturesque trading area of the Muslim part of the old town. We don’t have time to go through the entire Via Dolorosa – Christ’s path of tears, which consists of fourteen points marking the suffering of Jesus. We visit the last and most important place: the site of the Crucifixion and Holy Sepulchre. This church of the greatest Christian shrine – the tomb of the Saviour – today remains a great architectural complex under a dome. However, compared to the gorgeous cathedrals and churches of the Christian world, it seems more than modest. That modesty and simplicity of the stone chapel Sepulchre of Christ only strengthens the feeling and awareness that one is in a place where one is most deeply determined. Treat yourself by touching the tomb of Jesus Christ, the dream of every Christian. In ceremonial tranquillity, quiet, a place of bowing, people of all colours and creeds enter, despite all dissensions, through the varied procession of believers, one realises the immenseness of

Praying at the Wailing Wall the universal religion and the meaning of suffering. Interestingly, the keys to this holiest Church of the Christian world have been kept – since the time of Saladin – by two Muslim families who open its doors every day. We end this day filled with impressions and emoBUSINESS MEETINGS AND IMPLEMENTATION IDEAS In late November 2010, Airport City Belgrade organised a trip for a team of journalists from Belgrade to its headquarters in Israel - AfricaIsrael Corporation and company Tidhar, which – alongside Africa-Israel – is co-owner of the largest business park in Serbia. The visit was designed as a business meeting and a “brief” introduction to the country and its historical and tourism gems. During the business segment we had a chance to get acquainted with ongoing projects of the two leading Israeli companies in construction and real estate. Airport City Belgrade had recently announced a serious investment in energy efficiency, so a meeting had also been organised for the team of Belgrade journalists with Zvi Springer - the leading architect of “green construction”, who was the first in Israel to build a residential development based on principles of energy efficiency.

Mr Adir Elal, CEO of Airport City Belgrade

tions at Abu Gosh – an Arab village near Jerusalem renowned for its good restaurants. Our host is Adir Elal, CEO of Airport City Belgrade, who displays the spirit of true hospitality by expertly selecting a menu of tasty, unusual dishes and delicious Arabic desserts. THE DAY WHEN ALL STANDS STILL As the sun sets on Friday, so begins Shabbat, the Sabbath, the Jewish holy day. Before the end of the day we go to Florentin – a pleasant street in Tel Aviv where, before each Shabbat, artists and craftsmen come to set up stalls and sell their wares. There are Hamsas, symbols of luck and protectors of the home, and Hanukkah menorahs, jewellery, beautifully shaped trinkets and linen. By the time the sun disappears, Florentin has been deserted and so we proceed to Shuk – a nearby picturesque oriental grocery market with aromas of the spices and fruits of the Mediterranean. At the stalls they are peddling pomegranates and giant dates, there are shops of delicatessen cheeses, souvenirs, everything imaginable. When the market also empties, we head to Jaffa and as we enter the city we come across an Arab wedding. Loud music greets the newlyweds. We ascend the mound above the old port, cross the bridge with the zodiac signs and from this elevation observe Tel Aviv as it shines dreamily along the length of the horizon. The evening ends in the hospitality area, in an elegant Italian restaurant where delicious food and drink is combined with sophisticated Israeli wines. The restaurateur wants to present the wine we are drinking to us. He tells us vividly of the rise of viticulture in Israel and the error of the Rothschild who planted the wrong variety, thus ensuring the

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

101

Aleksandra Krstić in Tel Aviv’s central business district 7 KOOK STREET Africa-Israel proudly revealed to us its most exclusive domestic projectdomestic project for us - a gorgeous apartment complex located on the “main artery” of Jerusalem at No.7 Cook Street. We were able to see only deeply excavated foundations and a 3D presentation of the complex, which is set to become synonymous with exclusive residential areas in just two years.

Africa-Israel construction site

102

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

country was long considered as lacking the right soil suitable for growing grapes. New vineyards were planted with other varieties and today these grapes are used to make Israel’s sophisticated and much-sought-after wines. DAY BENEATH THE SEA On Saturday morning we set out on another exciting journey. Our driver, Shmulik, draws us a map of the planned route. We’ll be travelling east from Jerusalem and will pass through parts of the Palestinian territories before coming down to Jericho and the shores of the Dead Sea. The line on the sketched map extends further to the Negev. Passing through the Palestinian territory is not pleasant for any of us. Shmulik shows us the sites of battles and places of terrorist attacks, relaying the horrific details of dead and wounded. In order to prevent incursions and attacks, the Israeli government has erected high walls around the highway. I do not dare to think about the kind of life that takes place beyond those walls. We are awakened from our gloomy slumber by a Bedouin and his decorated camels. They are standing beside a large stone pyramid that declares the words: Sea level. We begin to descend, ever lower and lower, to the lowest point in the whole world. In

the distance loom the legendary Jericho and the River Jordan, but its merger with the Dead Sea is beyond our view – although we see its beneficial impact on the landscape, rendering it a shade of green. The Dead Sea looks much like any other, but the Jordanian mountain range that rises above it provides the entire picture with a dramatic line. Tel Aviv, Florentin Street

We pass through this land of date palms. Industrious Israelis have irrigated this area and created elite tourist complexes. Along our way we also stop at the factory that makes Ahava cosmetics from the mineral wealth of this sea. We reach our first break at the Hod Hamidbar Hotel, where we are awaited by treatment in an indoor spa followed by bathing in the Dead Sea. My curiosity and excitement grow. One advertisement beckoning visitors to holiday beside the Dead Sea shows a photograph of a man sitting on the water and quietly reading his newspaper. And it really is like that – one cannot swim. The water is so thick that you have the impression you have waded into an oil solution. The sea licks you and will fry you like essences mixed with wormwood. But floating idly is pure pleasure. I move to the spa centre, infinitely interested to discover all possible mineral bath options. I enter the sauna and encounter an Israeli of Russian origin. We talk in Russian and he tells me that he has been coming here to be treated and rejuvenated for 30 years. He is now retired after spending his whole working life as a tractor driver. He has heard of Serbia. MAGICAL DESERT We are not even halfway along the route of the sketched map. We move on – towards the Negev Desert. We are rushing to arrive before sunset, because, as we are told by Marina – who came to the Negev as a child – the most beautiful picture is carried by the light of Sde Boker (a Negev kibbutz) at sunset. We arrive at the last moment – the lookout point above the Negev is the site where, according to his own wish, Ben Gurion was buried. We pay our respects to the father of modern Israel and descend to the edge of the terraces offering a view of this vast expanse. I never even dreamt that a des-

HOUSING LOTTERY An unforgettable impression was left on the entire team by one unusual event for Serbian eyes: the Housing Lottery, which was organised at the Tel Aviv Fair by company Tidhar. The lottery included flats of a new housing estate under construction, which Tidhar – through an association bringing together active and retired military personnel, police and other security bodies – offered at prices below market value. As there was not enough housing to satisfy all interested parties, a lottery was organised. In a pleasant atmosphere without a hint of negative tension, under the guidance of the fantastic organisers of this event, we were provided with a beautiful picture of the mentality of this nation and the inventiveness of its investors.

Mr Arie Bachar, Tidhar co-owner ert could be beautiful – it glistens with thousands of colours, all shades of beige, brown, yellow and pink tones. In the distance the colours turn to white lights, but the desert is all around us. The legacy of Ben Gurion to his countrymen is connected to this beautiful, cruel and barren place. His vision was of a future irrigated and fertile land. That vision has not yet been realised, but a visit to the nearby Sde Boker kibbutz dispels any scepticism that, with the Bedouin and his camel at sea level

addition of superhuman effort, the Negev can be converted into a heavenly landscape. At the kibbutz we are welcomed by Zvi Remak, who is in charge of vineyards and wine production. He offers us his wines and shows us pictures of the vineyard, which he planted himself after training in California. These vineyards are part of the Negev and it is only then that I realise Ben Gurion’s vision is possible. We talk about the organisation of life on kibbutz - our interlocutor says, somewhat bitterly, that kibbutz life is declining. However, asked if he would choose a different way of life, he firmly replies: No, this is my way! The picture of Israel is complex even in this domain, where there are two parallel systems: the dominant system of capitalism, but the surviving communist ideas of life on kibbutz. Many communities of this type have successfully adapted to modern times, dealing with tourism, ecological agriculture and other relevant sectors. FAREWELL TO THE MEDITERRANEAN Entire worlds have stopped in four days of travel, but I feel as though I’ve barely touched Israel. I sneak away from the group and go to the sandy beach that I had watched wistfully from the window the day before. I take off my shoes and walk barefoot on the sand. I go into the water up to my ankles, listen to the rhythm of the waves and think about the impressions I gained about this country - simultaneously divided and strongly united. The Jews themselves are fundamentally different from one another – having arrived from all continents, bringing different habits, languages and culture. Some are ultra religious, others are ultra modern. Some work hard to the rules of capitalism, others work on the kibbutz and share all their gains. The country is in and out of war and conflict, but nonetheless it blooms, prospers, progresses and cultivates young generations. I part company with the Mediterranean Sea, promising him that I would definitely return and try to better meet this infinitely interesting region. In my mind I sketch a future itinerary: there would be a trip to the fertile Galilee, Nazareth and Shimshit – the sundrenched village of architect Zvi Springer. My plan also includes the Masada fortress – a symbol of unwavering resistance to any occupier of the Jews. I will spend several days in Jerusalem and visit all the holy sites, browsing the small warehouses of the Jerusalem bazaar, touring the Holocaust Museum and visiting the almost completed residential project at 7 Kook Street. miLena miHaLJČiĆ Photo: Miodrag Trajković

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

103

B E L G U E S T

P U T O P I S

–

I Z R A E L

ČUDESNA LEGURA IZ TOPIONICE LEVANTA U rečniku ne postoji reč koja bi makar približno sažela sva lica savremenog Izraela. Mnogoobrazna zemlja istrajnog naroda, pomirljivih i nepomirljivih razlika, skromnosti i raskoša, hipermodernog i drevnog, zemlja zaceljenih i otvorenih rana, zemlja hodočašća, svetinja nad svetinjama, stradanja, dugog pamćenja...

vaj putopis počinje na telavivskom aerodromu, modernoj vazdušnoj luci, koja nosi ime oca države – Ben Guriona. U svet jevrejske zemlje uvodi nas menora – sedmokraki svećnjak, koji je kao stilizovana skulptura postavljen na izlazu aerodromske zgrade. Krećemo ka Tel Avivu – gradu svetlosti i nebodera. Na odredište – hotel „Crown Plazzu“ na samoj obali Mediterana – stižemo kasno u noć. Zaliv se ne može obuhvatiti pogledom, titraju svetla visokih građevina, većinom hotela poznatih svetskih lanaca. Iako je

104

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

kasno, želim da osetim grad. Sa Marinom Deleon, predstavnicom domaćina iz Beograda i PR konsultantom„Airport Citija“, krećem u malu noćnu šetnju. Ulice porodičnih kuća s lepim dvorištima podsećaju na beogradske kvartove poput Neimara. Prošla je ponoć, a u bulevaru kafića, bistroa i restorana život vri. Mnogo, mnogo mladih evropski odevenih ljudi. Za noćno doba to i nije ništa neobično, ali se i u dnevnom životu na ulicama susreće dosta mladih i dece. Izrael je ne samo po utisku već i po brojkama zemlja mladih ljudi i novih naraštaja.

JUTRO NA OBALI SREDOZEMLJA Svanulo je sunčano, plavo jutro. U sobu nam najpre donose „Jerusalim post“. Silazim u salu za doručak i ne mogu da verujem očima. Plavetnilo neba i mora ušlo je kroz prozore, prizor je blistav, oko je puno lepote. A susret sa posluženjem doživljaj je za sebe. Obilje hlebova, salata, namaza, sireva... Miriše na začine. Vremena je malo, krećemo na put. Okrećemo leđa moru, i sada možemo da vidimo osunčano lice Tel Aviva. U kvartove jednospratnica uselili su se soliteri i grandiozne poslovne zgrade. Zadivljujuće

deluje arhitektura „Ramat Gana“ – središta svetske trgovine dijamantima. Idemo ka Jerusalimu. Pejzaž priobalnog Izraela krase raskošne mediteranske biljke, ali krajolik ubrzo počinje da se menja – prolazimo kroz brežuljkaste, a potom brdovite predele oskudnog rastinja. SUSRET S JERUSALIMOM Približavamo se Jerusalimu. Ulazimo u grad iz pravca Maslinske gore. U jednom čudesnom trenutku zastaje dah – s jerusalimskog grebena otvara se pogled na prostranstvo Judejske pustinje. Nenaseljena je i danas, a kroz glavu mi prolazi misao da je isto tako izgledala u očima Isusa Hrista, njegovih apostola i svih drugih proroka, careva, ratnika... Spuštamo se strmim padinama Maslinske gore i zaustavljamo na vidikovcu sa kojeg puca pogled na zidine starog grada: Zlatna kupola na kobaltno plavoj osnovi dominira panoramom. To je Al Aksa, muslimansko svetilište, koje se nalazi na mestu razorenog Jerusalimskog hrama. Prema Bibliji, upravo na tom uzvišenju, na steni, praotac Avram podigao je ruku na Isaka. S pogledom na drevni grad, koji najdublje poštuju Jevreji, hrišćani i muslimani, čovek postaje svestan da potpunu spoznaju nikada ne može dosegnuti, svaka čestica Jerusalima natopljena je pamćenjem i zamršenom istorijom. ZID PLAČA I CRKVA SVETOG GROBA Dolazimo pred kapiju Jafa i ulazimo u zagrljaj zidina najsvetijeg grada na svetu. Put nas vodi kroz Jermensku četvrt. Vodič nam pokazuje glavnu rimsku trgovačku ulicu – Via Cardo, koja je i za današnje pojmove ogromna. Atmosferu rimskog razdoblja živo nam dočaravaju moderni murali s prizorima iz života nekadašnje glavne tržnice. Prelazimo u Jevrejsku četvrt. Susrećemo se s ort-

POSLOVNI SUSRETI I PRIMENA IDEJA Krajem novembra 2010. godine „Airport city Belgrade“ je za novinarsku ekipu iz Beograda organizovao posetu svojoj centrali u Izraelu – korporaciji „Africa-Israel“ i kompaniji „Tidhar“, koja je, pored „Afrika-Israela“, suvlasnik ovog najvećeg biznis parka u Srbiji. Poseta je koncipirana i kao poslovni susret i kao jedno sažeto upoznavanje sa zemljom i njenim istorijskim i turističkim draguljima. U poslovnom delu imali smo priliku da se upoznamo s tekućim projektima ove dve vodeće izraelske kompanije u oblasti građevinarstva i nekretnina. „Airport city Belgrade“ je nedavno domaćoj javnosti najavio ozbiljnija ulaganja u energetsku efikasnost, pa je beogradskoj novinarskoj ekipi upriličen i susret sa Zvi Springerom – vodećim arhitektom „zelene gradnje“, koji je prvi u Izraelu izgradio stambeno naselje utemeljeno na principima energetske efikasnosti.

Africa-Israel headquarters odoksnim Jevrejima, koji su odeveni po drevnim propisima Tore. Približavamo se Zidu plača – svetinji nad svetinjama jevrejskog naroda. S najdubljim poštovanjem ulazim u ženski prostor i posmatram Jevrejke kako zadubljeno izgovaraju molitve. Bilo je teško prići Zidu. Žene su svojim telima i rukama dodirivale kamene blokove, predano se molile i u pukotine između kamena stavljale papiriće s molbama upućenim Bogu. Razmišljam o istrajnosti

naroda koji je toliko vekova čeznuo i na koncu dočekao da se slobodno klanja ostatku zapadnog zida svog postradalog hrama.. Krenuli smo potom u Hrišćanski kvart, kratko prošavši kroz živopisni trgovački deo muslimanskog starog grada. Nismo imali vremena da prođemo čitavu Via Dolorosu – Hristov put suza, koji se sastoji od četrnaest stanki Isusovog stradanja. Obišli smo poslednje i najvažnije mesto – Raspeće i Sveti grob. Crkva u kojoj se nalazi najveća hrišćanska svetinja – grob Spasitelja – danas je veliki arhitektonski kompleks pod kupolom, ali, u poređenju s velelepnim katedralama i sabornim hramovima širom hrišćanskog sveta, ona izgleda više nego skromno. Ta skromnost zdanja i jednostavnost kamene kapela Groba Hristovog samo pojačavaju osećanje i svest da se nalazite na mestu koje vas najdublje određuje. Pokloniti se i dotaći grob Isusa Hrista san je svakog Hrišćanina. U svečanom miru, tiho, na mesto poklonjenja ulaze ljudi svih boja kože i, uprkos svim razdorima, prolazeći kroz tu raznoliku povorku vernika, shvatate veličinu univerzalne religije i smisao stradanja. Zanimljivo je da ključeve te svetinje cele hrišćanske vaseljene, još iz vremena Saladina, čuvaju dve muslimanske porodice, koje svakog dana otvaraju njene dveri. Dan pun utisaka i emocija završavamo u Abu Gošu – arapskom selu nadomak Jerusalima, koje je poznato po dobrim restoranima. Naš domaćin je Adir Elal, direktor „Airport Cityja Beograd“, koji nam, u duhu istinskog gostoljublja, znalački odabira meni ukusnih i neobičnih jela i slasnih arapskih kolača. DAN KADA SVE STAJE U času zalaska sunca, u petak, počinje Šabat, jevrejski sveti neradni dan. Pred smiraj dana odlazimo na Florentin – lepu ulicu u Tel Avivu, gde pred

Journalist team: Milenko Vasović, Ljiljana Lukić, Marina Deleon, Milena Mihaljčić and Aleksandra Krstić

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

105

Panoramic view of the Negev Desert svaki Šabat izlaze umetnici i zanatlije i na tezgama prodaju svoje rukotvorine – tu su hamse – simboli sreće i zaštite doma, menore i hanukije, nakit, prelepo oblikovane trice i kučine... Kad je zašlo sunce, Florentin je opusteo, pa prelazimo na Šuk – obližnju živopisnu orijentalnu pijacu, koja miriše na začine i plodove Mediterana. Na tezgama se guraju narovi i džinovske urme, tu su prodavnice delikatesnih sireva, suvenira, svega i svačega. Kada se i pijaca ispraznila, krećemo ka Jafi. Na ulazu u grad susrećemo arapske svatove. Gromoglasna muzika ispraća mladence. Penjemo se na uzvišenje iznad stare luke, pa prelazimo most sa zodijačkim znakovima i sa uzvišenja posmatramo Tel Aviv, koji nestvarno svetli duž horizonta. Veče završavamo u ugostiteljskom kvartu, u jednom elegantnom italijanskom restoranu, gde, uz ukusnu hranu, pijemo i istančana izraelska vina. Gazda restorana želi da nam predstavi posluženo vino. Živo nam priča o usponu vinogradarstva u Izraelu i grešci Rotšildovih, koji su zasadili pogrešne sorte, pa se dugo smatralo da zemlja nema tlo pogodno za uzgoj loze. Zasađeni su novi vinogradi drugih sorti loza, od kojih se danas prave sofisticirana i tražena izraelska vina. ULICA KUK BR 7 „Afrika-Israel“ nam je s ponosom predstavila svoj najekskluzivniji domaći projekat – velelepni apartmanski kompleks koji se nalazi na „žili kucavici“ Jerusalima, u ulici Kuk br 7. Mogli smo da vidimo samo duboko iskopane temelje i 3D prezentaciju kompleksa, koji će za samo dve godine postati sinonim za ekskluzivno stambeno naselje.

106

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

DAN ISPOD MORA U subotu ujutro krećemo na još jedno uzbudljivo putovanje. Naš vozač Šmulik iscrtao nam je na karti planiranu maršrutu. Putovaćemo istočno od Jerusalima, proći ćemo kroz delove palestinske teritorije, a potom se spustiti u Jerihon i na obalu Mrtvog mora. Linija na iscrtanoj karti produžava se dalje ka Negevu. Prolazak kroz palestinsku teritoriju nikom nije bio prijatan. Šmulik nam pokazuje mesta na kojima su vođene borbe i mesta terorističkih napada, iznosi i strašne podatke o mrtvima i ranjenima. Da bi sprečila upade i predupredila napade, izraelska vlada je podigla visoke zidove oko autoputa. Ne usuđujem sa da mislim o životu iza tih zidina. Iz tmurnog raspoloženja trgao nas je jedan beduin sa svojom okićenom kamilom. Stajali su pored velike

kamene piramide, na kojoj je pisalo: Nivo mora. Počinjemo da se spuštamo, sve niže, ka najnižoj tački na svetu. U daljini se nazire legendarni Jerihon, a reku Jordan, koja tu uvire u Mrtvo more, ne vidimo, ali vidimo njen blagotvoran uticaj koji pejsaž boji u zeleno. Mrtvo more izgleda kao i svako drugo, ali masiv Jordanskih planina, koji se izdiže nad njim, čitavoj slici daje dramatičnu crtu. Prolazimo kroz zemlju urminih palmi. Vredni Izraelci su navodnili taj predeo i napravili elitne turističke komplekse. Usput, svraćamo i u fabriku „Ahave“, koja pravi kozmetiku od mineralnog blaga mora. Prvi predah imamo u hotelu „Hod Hamidbar“. Čeka nas tretman u zatvorenom spa centru i kupanje u Mrtvom moru. Radoznalost i uzbuđenje rastu. Na jednoj reklami koja poziva na odmor na Mrtvom moru objavljena je fotografija čoveka koji sedi na vodi i mirno čita Piazza in front of Tel Aviv’s Crowne Plaza Hotel

na naše pitanje da li bi odabrao neki drugi način života, odlučno odgovara: „Ne, to je moj put!“ Slika Izraela je kompleksna i u toj ravni paralelno postoje dva sistema – kapitalizam koji dominira, ali opstaje i komunistička ideja kibuca. Mnoge zajednice te vrste uspešno su se prilagodile novom dobu, pa se bave turizmom, ekološkom proizvodnjom hrane i drugim kurentnim delatnostima.

The graves of David and Paula Ben-Gurion novine. I zaista je tako – plivati se ne može. Voda je toliko gusta da imate utisak kako ste ušli u uljani rastvor. Liznete li more, ono će vas ispeći kao esencija izmešana s pelinom. Ali plutanje i lenstvovanje čisto je uživanje. Prelazim u spa centar živo zainteresovana za sve moguće kupke od lekovite vode. Ulazim u saunu i tu susrećem Izraelca poreklom iz Rusije. Razgovaramo na ruskom jeziku i on mi priča kako već trideset godina dolazi ovde da se leči i okrepljuje. Sada je penzioner, a sav svoj radni vek proveo je kao traktorista. Čuo je za Srbiju. ČAROBNA PUSTINJA Iscrtana mapa puta nije ni na polovini. Krećemo dalje – ka pustinji Negev. Žurimo da stignemo pred zalazak sunca, jer, kako nam je ispričala Marina Deleon, koja je u Negevu bila još kao dete, najlepša slika koju nosi u sebi je svetlost Sde Bokera u smiraj dana. Stižemo u poslednji čas – vidikovac nad Negevom mesto je na kome je, po sopstvenoj želji, sahranjen Ben Gurion. Odajemo poštu ocu moderLUTRIJA STANOVA Nezaboravni utisak na čitavu ekipu ostavio je jedan za srpske prilike nesvakidašnji događaj – Lutrija stanova – koju je na telavivskom Sajmu organizovala kompanija „Tidhar“. Na lutriji su bili stanovi jednog novog stambenog naselja u izgradnji, koje je „Tidhar“, preko udruženja koje okuplja aktivne i penzionisane pripadnike vojske, policije i drugih bezbednosnih struktura, ponudio po ceni nižoj od tržišne. Kako nije bilo dovoljno stanova za sve zainteresovane, organizovana je lutrija. Prijatna atmosfera bez trunke negativne tenzije i fantastična organizacija ovog događaja pokazala nam je lepu sliku o mentalitetu naroda i inventivnosti investitora.

nog Izraela i silazimo do ivice platoa odakle puca pogled na nepregledno prostranstvo. Nisam ni sanjala da pustinja može biti lepa – ona ima hiljade boja, sve moguće nijanse mrkih, smeđih, žućkastih i ružičastih tonova. U daljini boje prelaze u beličastu maglu, ali pustinja je svuda oko nas. Zaveštanje Ben Guriona sunarodnicima vezano je za ovo lepo, surovo i besplodno mesto. On je imao viziju buduće navodnjene i plodne zemlje. Vizija se još nije ostvarila, ali je poseta obližnjem kibucu – Sde Bokeru razvejala našu skepsu da je, mada natčovečanskim naporom, Negev moguće pretvoriti u rajski predeo. U kibucu nas dočekuje Zvi Remak, čovek koji je zadužen za vinograde i proizvodnju vina. Nudi nas svojim vinima i pokazuje slike vinograda koje je, posle školovanja u Kaliforniji, sam zasadio. Ti vinogradi su deo Negeva i tek tada shvatamo da se vizija Ben Guriona može ostvariti. Pričamo i o organizaciji života u kibucu – naš sagovornik pomalo jetko kaže da su kibuci na izdisaju, ali

OPROŠTAJ OD SREDOZEMLJA U četiri dana putovanja stali su čitavi svetovi, ali ja osećam da Izrael nisam ni dotakla. Iskradam se iz ekipe i odlazim na peščanu plažu koju sam prethodnih dana čežnjivo gledala s prozora. Skidam cipele i bosa hodam po pesku. Ulazim u vodu do članaka, slušam ritam talasa i razmišljam o utiscima koje sam stekla o ovoj zemlji – istovremeno podeljenoj i čvrsto ujedinjenoj. Sami Jevreji se među sobom suštinski razlikuju – pristigli su sa svih kontinenata, donoseći različite navike, jezik i kulturu. Jedni su ultrareligiozni, drugi su ultramoderni. Jedni žestoko rade po pravilima kapitalizma, drugi rade u kibucima i sve što steknu međusobno dele. Zemlja je malo-malo u ratu i sukobima, ali i pored svega toga, ona cveta, ide napred, neguje mlade naraštaje. Rastala sam se od Sredozemnog mora, obećavši mu da ću svakako ponovo doći i pokušati da bolje upoznam ovu beskonačno zanimljivu regiju. U mislima sam napravila skicu tog budućeg putovanja: biće tu plodna Galileja i Nazaret i Šim Šit – sunčano naselje arhitekte Zvi Springera, u planu je i tvrđava Masada – simbol nepokolebivog otpora Jevreja svakom okupatoru. U Jerusalimu ću provesti više dana i obići sva sveta mesta, zaviriću u male magaze jerusalimskih bazara, obići Muzej holokausta, pogledati kako izgleda gotovo zdanje u ulici Kuk br. 7. miLena miHaLJČiĆ Foto: Miodrag Trajković

The shore of the Dead Sea

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

107

P E T R O V A C

R I V I E R A

EXCELLENT HOLIDAY, LOVELY HOTEL! Along the central part of Montenegro’s coastline, between Sveti Stefan and the Port of Bar, in the small town of Petrovac, lies one of the most beautiful hotels of the southern Adriatic: the Hotel Riviera. Surrounded by the lush, fragrant greenery of pine forests, cypress trees and palms... It is nestled high above the sea, allowing you to soak up views of the azzure waters, while just a short walk separates you from two beautiful sandy Mediterranean beaches.

alking over long sandy beaches or recognizable Montenegrin coves, indulging in the sunshine and the clear sea together with the scents of pines, palms and cypresses are the traces of beauty that the hotel complex Rivijera offers to its guests. Situated on the coast, in the milieu of the unspoiled nature the four-star Riviera Hotel has 91 luxuriously and comfortably equipped rooms – 11 single –bedded, 38 double-bedded and 42 suites. In the rooms and suites with the terraces from

108

Spring | proleće 2010 BelGuest

which there is a beautiful view of the surroundings, guests can use telephones, the Internet connection, room service, safe-deposit boxes, mini bars or watch satellite and cable television. All accommodation capacities of the Rivijera Hotel have air conditioning. A spacious terrace of the King Nikola Bar, located in the shade of lime and pine trees, is an ideal place for hotel guests to rest relax, drink their beverages and listen to Mediterranean music. In the boardinghouse restaurant of the Rivijera Hotel and a la cart restaurant Olive, the excellent chefs prepare meals and specialties of national and international cuisine. In the yard of the hotel, there is a swimming pool, with a separate swimming pool for children and a jacuzzi. The Rivijera Hotel has its own car park. The guests of the hotel spend their time most often on the part of the town beach hired by the hotel or they go sunbathing and swimming on the nearby natural sandy beach Lucice. Sport devotees can use a tennis court, a beach volley playground or a football field near the hotel

or they can play table tennis. For children there is an amusement park with wooden items, toboggans, small houses, swings, tables and chairs – a particular playground for the youngest guests. The animators organize their entertainment every day. The activities of the hotel include numerous excursions to Budva and Bar. „The hotel was the cleanest place we have ever seen - the rooms and the communal areas including the pool and garden were immaculate. The staff were very friendly and helpful and the most of the desk staff spoke good English...“, „We would definetly recommend this hotel to a friend and we are considering coming back next year!Thank you Hotel Rivijera for a wonderful week at the coast of Montenegro!“, this was written by satisfied guests of the Hotel Rivijera about their stay and posted on the internet as a recommendation. If you had such an experience , you would get just what you deserve- more than the need for the beautiful. Vladimir poČUČ

SJAJAN ODMOR, DIVAN HOTEL! U središnjem delu crnogorskog primorja, između Svetog Stefana i Bara, u malenom gradiću Petrovcu, nalazi se jedan od najlepših hotela južnog Jadrana – hotel Rivijera. Okružen je jedrim i mirisnim zelenilom borove šume, čempresa, palmi... Naslonjen je na uzvišicu s koje možete pogledom upijati plavetnilo mora. A od dve prelepe peščane mediterasnke plaže deli vas samo minuti laganog hoda.

etnje dugim peščanim plažama ili prepoznatljivim crnogorskim uvalama, prepuštanje čarolijama sunca i prozračnog mora, uz mirise borova, palmi i čempresa, tragovi su lepote koju gostima daruje hotelski kompleks Rivijera u Petrovcu. Smeštena uz samu obali mora, u ambijentu netaknute prirode, Rivijera raspolaže sa 91 luksuzno i komforno opremljenom sobom – 11 jednokrevetnih, 38 dvokrevetnih soba i 42 apartmana. Kategorisana je sa četiri zvezdice. U sobama i apartmanima, sa čijih se terasa pruža predivan pogled na okolinu, gosti mogu koristiti telefon, Internet konekciju, room service, sef i mini bar, pratiti satelitski i kablovski televizijski program. Svi smeštajni kapaciteti Rivijere su klimatizovani. Prostrana terasa bara Kralj Nikola, smeštena u hladovini lipa i borova, idealno je mesto za odmor i opuštanje, uz gutljaje kvalitetnih pića i zvuke mediteranske muzike. U pansionskom restoranu Rivijere i a la cart restoranu Oliva, vrhunski kulinarski majstori pripremaju jela i specijalitete domaće ili internacionalne kuhinje. U dvorištu hotela, okružen zelenilom, nalazi se otvoren bazen. Posebno su odvojeni dečiji bazen i jakuzzi. Rivijera ima i sopINFO: Hotel Rivijera 85300 Petrovac Montenegro Telephone: +382 (0)33 422-100 Fax: +382(0)33 461-314 mail : hotelrivijera@t-com.me sajt : www.hotelrivijera.me

stveni parking. Posetioci hotela vreme najčešće provode na delu gradske plaže koju zakupljuje Rivijera ili se sunčaju i kupaju na obližnjoj prirodnoj peščanoj plaži Lučice. Ljubitelji sportskih igara mogu koristiti tenisko igralište Rivijere, teren za odbojku – beach volley, prostor za stoni tenis ili fudbalsko igralište u blizini hotela. Za decu je osmišljen zabavni park sa drvenim rekvizitima, toboganom, kućicama, ljuljaškama, te stolovima i stolicama – svojevrsno mini igralište za goste do pet godina. O njihovoj zabavi brinu se svakodnevno animatori. Hotelski sadržaji oplemenjeni su i brojnim izletima do Budve i Bara. „Ovo je najčistiji hotel koji sam u životu videla –

sobe i zajednički prostorije, bazen i vrt doslovno blistaju. Osoblje je ljubazno i uslužno i većina njih govori dobar engleski...“, „Svakako ćemo ovaj hotel preporučiti prijateljima i već razmišlajmo da sledeće godine ponovo dođemo. Zahvaljujemo se hotelu Rivijera na predivnoj nedelji provedenoj na obali Crne Gore!“, napisali su o svom boravku u hotelu zadovoljni gosti i svoje preporuke objavili na Internetu. Ukoliko sebi priuštite jedan takav doživljaj, priuštili ste upravo to što zaslužujete – više od potrebe za lepim. Vladimir poČUČ

BelGuest Spring | proleće 2010

109

P R I M A

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

CELEBRATING DIVERSITY This Belgrade international school provides its pupils with an education according to British standards. Working to a programme of the University of Cambridge, PRIMA has earned an enviable reputation - not only for academic success, but also as a school that uses living examples to teach children about the richness of different cultures and customs from around the world.

ifferences may cause misunderstandings, but when a child’s ability to recognise the richness of diversity is nurtured, that child’s life becomes incomparably richer and they become more open to knowledge. Directed by these academic principles and world view, this school also marks and celebrates important dates and festivals from the calendars of the world’s nations, such as the harvest festival celebrated by nations of the English-speaking world, Chinese New Year, St. Sava’s Day and many more. The atmosphere within the school is perhaps best described by Principal Mrs Brigitte MacIntosh, who says: “We are a school with an open mind, a broad education and a warm atmosphere. Through our example one can see how diversity creates cohesion in the nicest sense of the word.” SAINT SAVA, ORIGAMI & THE YEAR OF THE RABBIT Transforming ideas into action, the school prepared three interesting events for pupils in just a short period. The first was dedicated to St. Sava, who is honoured in Serbia as the patron satin of

110

Spring | proleće 2010 BelGuest

schools. What was it like? On the table were the saint’s day loaf, cracked wheat and candles. As is customary, the pupils broke the bread cake, served the wheat and listened with interest to the story of the life and works of this great educator. The celebration ended with genuine joy and the dancing of the Serbian ‘kola’. Then Mrs Kayo Kobayashi, from the Embassy of Japan, came to visit. She showed pupils how to create traditional origami and explained its meaning to them. The children used colourful pieces of paper to make seemingly simple yet complex forms like the shapes of frogs, flowers and aeroplanes. They were interested to hear that even the legendary samurai had exchanged gifts of such folded strips of paper and that this ancient skill is considered a great art in Japan. Birds are most commonly made, but besides birds the most common form of origami is the aeroplane, which symbolises serenity of the soul. It is believed that all desires will be fulfilled for the person who makes a thousand planes. Mrs Kobayashi also told the children the shocking tale of a girl named Sadako Sasaki, who survived

the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima but was exposed to radiation. Having heard the legend, she began to make aeroplanes. She wanted to make a thousand, but only managed 644 before she succumbed to leukaemia. Her friends continued to make aeroplanes in her name. When they reached 1,000 they sent Sadako’s message of peace around the world. To preserve their memory of her, they built a grandiose monument depicting Sadako holding a plane in her hand and releasing it into flight. On the wings was written: “I wrote PEACE on your wings, so you fly around the world and ensure that children no longer die in this way.” The third event was dedicated to the celebration of Chinese New Year. To begin the Year of the Rabbit, pupils were given a red envelope containing a chocolate coin, symbolising happiness and prosperity. New Year’s lunch was also Chinese and traditional dishes were served with chopsticks, thus giving pupils the opportunity to also learn that skill. BelgUeSt

P R I M A

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

PROSLAVLJANJE RAZLIČITOSTI Beogradska međunarodna škola Prima international school svojim đacima pruža obrazovanje po britanskim standardima. Radeći po programu Univerziteta Kembridž, škola je svojim radom stekla zavidnu reputaciju, ali ne samo po školskim uspesima već i kao škola koja svoju decu na živim primerima uči bogatstvu različitih kultura i običaja naroda iz čitavog sveta.

azličitost može biti uzrok nerazumevanja, ali kada se kod dece odmalena neguje čulo za prepoznavanje bogatstva u različitosti, onda je takvo dete u životu neuporedivo bogatije i otvorenije za spoznaju mnogih vrednosti. Vodeći se ovim pedagoškim načelom i pogledom na svet, škola obeležava i proslavlja važne datume i svetkovine iz kalendara naroda sveta, na primer Festival žetve, koji slave nacije anglosaksonske kulture, kinesku Novu godinu, Svetog Savu... Atmosferu u školi možda najbolje određuju reči direktorke Brižit Mekintoš, koja kaže: „Mi smo škola otvorenog uma, širokog obrazovanja i tople atmosfere. Na našem primeru može se videti kako različitost stvara koheziju u najlepšem smislu te reči.“ SVETI SAVA, ORIGAMI I GODINA ZECA Pretvarajući ideje u dela, škola je za svoje đake priredila tri zanimljiva događaja. Prvi je bio posvećen Svetom Savi, koji se u Srbiji praznuje kao školska slava. Kako je to izgledalo? Na trpezi

su bili slavski kolač, žito i sveća. Po običaju, đaci su lomili kolač, poslužili se žitom i pažljivo slušali priču o životu i delima tog velikog prosvetitelja. Proslava je završena pravim veseljem, uz igranje srpskog kola. Potom je iz ambasade Japana u posetu došla gospođa Kajo Kobajaši, koja je đacima pokazala kako se pravi tradicionalni origami i objasnila im njegovo značenje. Deca su od šarenih papirića pravila naizgled jednostavne, a po obliku veoma složene figure žabe, cveta i aviona. Bilo im je zanimljivo da čuju kako su i legendarni samuraji među sobom razmenjivali poklone od savijenih traka papira i da se ta drevna veština u Japanu smatra umetnošću. Najčešće se prave ptice. Pored ptica, najzastupljeniji oblik origamija je aviončić, koji simbolizuje duševno spokojstvo. Postoji verovanje da će se sve želje ispuniti onom ko napravi hiljadu aviona. Gospođa Kobajaši je deci ispričala i potresnu priču o devojčici Sadako Sasaki. Ona je preživela atomsku bombu bačenu na Hirošimu i

bila izložena radijaciji. Čuvši za legendu, počela je da pravi aviončiće. Želela je da ih bude hiljadu, a uspela je da napravi 644. Umrla je od leukemije. Njeni prijatelji su u njeno ime nastavili da prave aviončiće. Kada su stigli do brojke od 1000, poslali su Sadakinu poruku mira celom svetu. Čuvajući uspomenu, podigli su joj veličanstven spomenik, na kojem ona u ruci drži aviončić, puštajući ga da leti, a na krilima je ispisano: „Napisala sam MIR na tvojim krilima, a ti leti oko sveta i učini da deca više ne umiru na ovaj način. “ Treći događaj bio je posvećen proslavi kineske Nove godine. Za početak godine Zeca učenici su dobili crvene koverte u kojima je bila čokolada u obliku novčića koji simbolizuje sreću i blagostanje. Novogodišnji ručak je takođe bio kineski. Tradicionalna jela su poslužena sa štapićima kako bi deca imala prilike da nauče i tu veštinu. BelgUeSt

BelGuest Spring | proleće 2010

111

KULTURA CULTURE POZORIŠTA – THEATERS www.geocities.com/bgpozorista ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342/www.atelje212.rs ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 www.atelje212.co.rs BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.rs BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608 www.bitef.rs DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.rs DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel.2619-705 www.rex.b92.net/ister JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.rs

KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.rs NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333 www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SCENA RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 323-8817 SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447 TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664 www.zvezdarateatar.rs

DEČJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIĆ, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715 www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 POZORISTE “PAN TEATAR”, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 298, www.panteatar.rs

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS

KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Nake Spasić 3, tel. 367-2564, www.nur.org.yu RUSKI DOM / RUSSIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178 www.ruskidom.rs

REX, Jevrejska 16, tel./fax 3284-534 www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014/ www.skc.org.yu ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550 / www.kolarac.rs

KONCERTNE DVORANE - CONCERT HALLS ATRIJUM NARODNOG MUZEJA, Trg republike 1a, tel. 330-6000 BEOGRADSKA FILHARMONIJA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328-2977 www.bgf.co.rs DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 324-0242 DVORANA DOMA SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849 www.domsindikata.com KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel. 2638-264 SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 www.savacentar.com ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 262-6591 www.kolarac.co.rs

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ - ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888 KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE - THE MANSION OF DUCHESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA - THE MANSION OF DUKE MILOSH, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422 KUĆA ĐURE JAKŠIĆA - DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUĆA - MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE - SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ - NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, 3306-000 www.narodnimuzej.rs

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538 VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ - VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

AMERIČKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694,

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE - SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM (direkcija),

AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956,

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ - JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71,

BRITANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ BRITISH CULTURAL CENTER, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800

MUZEJ BEOGRADSKE TVRĐAVE – BELGRADE FORTRESS MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb,

CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270 www.czkd.rs DEČIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442/ www.dksg.rs DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 323-99-71 FRANCUSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/FRENCH CULTURAL CENTER, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-600

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE - YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Trg Nikole Pašića 11,

www.americancorners-sam.net

www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf www.britishcouncil.org/serbia

www.ccf.rs

GOETHE INSTITUT-NEMAČKI KULTURNI CENTAR/GERMAN CULTURAL CENTER, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 2622-823/ www.goethe.de/belgrad

GRAD - Evropski centar za kulturu i debatu, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. 3282- 571 www. gradbeograd.eu

GUARNERIUS – centar lepih umetnosti, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807 www.guarnerius.rs

HELENSKI FOND ZA KULTURU, Kneza Miloša 14, tel.3625-206 www.hfc-belgrade.com INSTITUT SERVANTES - ŠPANSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ SPANISH CULTURAL CENTER, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, 3034-183/ www.belgrado.cervantes.es INSTITUT KONFUČIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.fil.bg.ac.rs ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ ITALIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, fax.3621-411 www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it

KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.rs

114

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Đure Jakšića 9/IV, tel. 2187-360, 2637-753

tel. 2622-634

tel. 328-4317

tel. 328- 4317

MUZEJ BANJIČKOG LOGORA, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877 VOJNI MUZEJ - MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan, tel. 3344-408, 3344-915 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIĆA, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126 MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE - NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886 MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ TOME ROSANDIĆA, Ljube Jovanovića 3, tel.265- 1434 MUZEJ IVE ANDRIĆA - IVO ANDRIC MUSEUM, Andrićev Venac 12, tel. 323-8397 ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA - THE CITY OF BELGRADE MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel.2630-825

ZAVIČAJNI MUZEJ ZEMUN - ZEMUN CITY MUSEUM, Glavna 9, tel. 316- 5234 TEHNIČKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA- MUSEUM OF MOTORCARS, Majke Jevrosime 30,tel. 3034-625 MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA - MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Beograd/Belgrade airport,tel. 2670-992, 2698-209 MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE – MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850 www.muzejnt.rs

PTT MUZEJ- POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3210-325 ŽELEZNIČKI MUZEJ - RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334 PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAČKI MUZEJ - MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2265

MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE – MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149

UMETNIČKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIČKE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654 MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI - THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2626-630 MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Novi Beograd, Ušće Save bb, tel. 311-5713 www.msub.org.rs

MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI - MUSEUM OF DESIGN, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494 www.mpu.org.rs

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - CINEMA MUSEUM, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.yu NATIONAL BANK OF SERBIA NUMISMATIC COLLECTION Kralja Petra 12, tel.3027-100 www.nbs.rs e-mail izlozba@nbs.rs For individual visitors - every working day from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Organized groups are requested to book their visit in advance. Admittance free. For visit announcements please call: +381 11 3027-204, 3027-318 POSTAVKA NUMIZMATIČKE ZBIRKE U NARODNOJ BANCI SRBIJE Individualne posete – svakog radnog dana u vremenu od 10 do 16 časova. Grupne posete se zakazuju.Ulaz je besplatan. Zakazivanje poseta obavlja se telefonom na broj +381 11 3027-204, 3027-318 AUKCIJSKA KUĆA – AUCTION HOUSE MADL’ART, Kralja Milana 21, tel. 3244-824

IZLOŽBENE GALERIJE - EXHIBITION GALLERIES GALERIJA SRPSKE AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMETNOSTI - GALLERY OF SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES,Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 334-2400 ext.244 GALERIJA BEOGRAD, Andrićev venac 12, tel. 323-8789 GALERIJA DOMA OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453 GALERIJA FAKULTETA LIKOVNIH UMETNOSTI, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. 2630-635 GALERIJA FRESAKA - FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Uroša 20, tel. 3306-052, 2621-491 GALERIJA GRAFIČKOG KOLEKTIVA, Obilićev venac 27, tel. 2627-785 www. grafickikolektiv.org GALERIJA HAOS, Dositejeva 3, tel. 2627-497 www.galleryhaos.com GALERIJA KULTURNOG CENTRA BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 2622-926 GALERIJA-LEGAT MILICE ZORIĆ I RODOLJUBA ČOLAKOVIĆA, Rodoljuba Čolakovića 13, tel. 2663-173 GALERIJA-LEGAT PAJE JOVANOVIĆA, Kralja Milana 21, tel. 3340-176 GALERIJA-LEGAT PETRA DOBROVIĆA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2622-163 GALERIJA NAUKE I TEHNIKE SANU – SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Đure Jakšića 2, tel. 3283-490 GALERIJA NEW MOMENT, Hilandarska 14, tel. 3229-992 GALERIJA PROGRES, Knez Mihailova 22, tel. 2182-626 GALERIJA PRIRODNJAČKOG MUZEJA, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 328-4317 GALERIJA STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 8, tel. 2612-023 GALERIJA STUDENTSKOG KULTURNOG CENTRA, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 2688-468 GALERIJA SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, tel. 2685-780 www.galerijasuluj.org.rs GALERIJA 73, Požeška 83 a, tel. 3557-142 GALERIJA ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. 2623-128 www.ulus.org.rs GALERIJA CENTRALNOG DOMA VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 323-4712 GALERIJA ZADUŽBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, tel.2185-794 JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNIČKIH DELA, Andrićev venac 4, tel. 3238-789, Dositejeva 1, tel. 2627-135

OZON, Andrićev venac 12, tel.3036-024, 3238-789 SALON MUZEJA SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI, Pariska 14, tel. 2630-940 UMETNIČKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIĆ, Mali Kalemegdan, tel. 2622-281 www.ulus.org.rs VELIKA GALERIJA DOMA KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442

ZEPTER GALERIJA, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414

BIOSKOPI - CINEMAS 20. OKTOBAR, Balkanska 2, tel. 2687-182 AKADEMIJA 28, Nemanjina 28, tel. 361- 6020 BALKAN, Braće Jugovića 16, tel. 3343-491 CITY ACADEMIC, Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića 152, tel. 260- 9527 DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar dr Zorana Đinđića 179, tel.269- 1442 DOM OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, tel. 3248-202 DOM SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849 DVORANA KULTURNOG CENTRA, Kolarčeva 6, tel. 2621-174 JADRAN, Trg Republike 5, tel. 2624-057 JUGOSLAVIJA, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina bb, tel. 2676-484 KOZARA, Terazije 25, tel. 323-5648 MALI ODEON, Kneza Miloša 14-16, tel. 2643-280 MILLENNIUM, Knez Mihailova 19, tel. 2623-365 MUZEJ KINOTEKE, Kosovska 11, tel. 324-8250 ODEON, Kraljice Natalije 45, tel. 2643-355 RODA CINEPLEX, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 STER CITY CINEMA, Jurija Gagarina 16, Delta City, tel.220- 3400 ŠUMADIJA PALAS, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. 3555-465 TUCKWOOD CINEPLEX, Kneza Miloša 7, tel. 323-6517 VUK, Bul. kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2424-860 ZVEZDA, Terazije 40, tel. 264- 2057

KNJIŽARE - BOOK STORES www.knjigainfo.com AKADEMIJA, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 2636-514 APROPO, Cara Lazara 10, 2625-839 BEOPOLIS, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-9922 CIKLOSTIL, Kičevska 17, tel. 3441-900 DERETA, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 3033-503, 2627-934 GECA KON, Knez Mihailova 12, tel. 2622-073 INTERNATIONAL PRESS SERVICE- SKC, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 2659-193 MAMUT MEGASTORE, Sremska 2-4, tel. 2639-060 PLATO, Akademski plato 1, tel. 3034-808, rv/wh 0-24h Knez Mihailova 48, tel. 2625-834, rv/wh 0-24h Čika Ljubina 18-20, tel. 303-2196 SKZ, Kralja Milana 19, tel. 323-1593 STUBOVI KULTURE, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 328-1851 ZEPTER, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414 ZNAK PLUS, Terazije 24, tel. 306-7686 PRAVOSLAVNE KNJIŽARE ORTHODOX-CHRISTIAN BOOK STORES ATOS, Nušićeva 5, tel. 3224-234 BLAGODARNIK, Beogradska 33, tel. 3244-038 INOSTRANA KNJIGA - FOREIGN LANGUAGE BOOKS INTERNATIONAL PRESS SERVICE, Beoizlog, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281-859 ENGLISH BOOK, Kralja Petra 51, tel.3349-560 THE OXFORD CENTRE, Dobračina 27, tel. 2631-021, Dobračina 18a, 2631-947 PROEX, 1300 kaplara 1, tel. 2180-140

BIBLIOTEKE - LIBRARIES BIBLIOTEKA GRADA BEOGRADA - BELGRADE CITY LIBRARY, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202-4024 www.bgb.org.rs

NARODNA BIBLIOTEKA SRBIJE - SERBIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 2451-242 www.nb.rs

UNIVERZITETSKA BIBLIOTEKA „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“- UNIVERSITY LIBRARY „SVETOZAR MARKOVIĆ“, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 3370-509 www.unilib.bg.ac.rs

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

115

BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI BELGRADE RESTAURANTS *skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079 DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885 IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422 ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750 TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501 ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE BATLEROVA KUĆA, Gospodar Jovanova 42, tel. 2188-033 mob. 065/2188-033 BELLA CASA, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 BELLE EPOQUE, Džordža Vašingtona 2, tel. 3345-383 BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 367-0562 COLONIAL SUN, Bulevar Vojvode Putnika 32-34, tel.3692-156 DAKA*****, Zemun, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 101-319 rv/wh 12.00-24.00h nat DAKA, Đure Daničića 4, tel. 3222-068 DEVETKA***, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783 DIVA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822

116

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422 EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 3612-429 FRANŠ****, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 2641-944 GINGER, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 IGUANA, Božidara Adžije 30, tel. 2443-383 INTERNATIONAL PRESS CENTER CLUB, Knez Mihailova 6/III, tel. 2621-661 KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 (live music) KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931 KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972 KOLIBA, Dragice Pravice 7a, tel. 753-142 KUMBARA****, Bulevar JA 46, Beli Potok, tel. 3906-834 MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332 METROPOLITAN GRILL*****, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140 NA ĆOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 NOVI SALAŠ, Zemun, Sinđelićeva 34, tel. 2190-324 ORAČ***, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507 OSKAR, Braće Baruh 6, tel. 184-726 PASTUV****, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-8058 PERPER lux, Omladinskih brigada 18a, tel. 2606-046 (live music)

SLODES HOTEL

PIRE SLOW FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel. 2621-494 RESTORAN 27, Istarska 27, tel. 2651-831 RUBIN***, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3910-987 SOKAČE, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića, tel. 2625- 452 SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197 STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 TABOR****, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464 (live music) TALAS, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 UŠĆE****, Ušće bb, tel. 2139-692 VERDI, Terazije 5, tel. 322-2401 VUK****, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 ZAPLET, Žarka Zrenjanina 33, tel.240-4142 ZEPTER CLUB****, Kralja Petra 32, tel. 328-1414/114 ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651 (live music) ZLATNIK****, Kej oslobođenja35, Zemun, tel. 210- 5565 ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS FISH&BAR, Braće Jugovića 3 , tel. 2622-146 KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 PORTO, Francuska 52, tel. 322-5624 REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625 (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 (live music)

The three-star Slodes hotel provides quality accommodation, hotel and restaurant services to athletes,businesspeople and other guests.

tel. 30 555 18 30 565 25

www.hotelslodes.com

Borska 92f, Beograd

design by sergiostanic

hotel

slodes

HOTEL SLODES

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS

AMPHORA, Dobračina 30, tel.2625-869 mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića bana 13, tel.3285-906 french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIĆA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 italian cuisine BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 italian cuisine BUONGIORNO MARE, Strahinjića Bana 57a, tel.3284-776 mediterranean cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojšina 6, tel. tel. 244 19 38, lebanon cuisine CASA, Makenzijeva 24, tel. 3860-866 IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 indian cuisine IPANEMA, Strahinjića bana 68, tel. 3283-069 italian cuisine FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 italian cuisine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 sea food KINESKI RESTORAN 888, Birčaninova 16, tel.2659-542 fax.2644-352 LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA****, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 italian cuisine PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 181-931chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 italian cuisine PIZZA HUT, Makedonska 44, tel. 3243-255 italian cuisine POSLOVNI KLUB „KOŠUTNJAK”, Pere Velimirovića 1, tel. 661-344 venision PUTUJUĆI GLUMAC, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel. 3341-024 italian cuisine RESAVA, Resavska 24, tel. 3233-192 mediterranean cuisine ROYAL KNEZ***, Kneza Sime Markovića 10, tel. 2635-160 italian cuisine TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 sea food VELIKI ŠANGAJ, Omladinskih brigada 18b, tel. 137-986 chinese cuisine VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 mexican cuisine ZORBA, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6547 greek cuisine

RESTORAN PIZZERIE - RESTAURANTS PIZZERIAS

ASTERIX, Ušće 1, tel. 311-2219 FONTANA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 88, tel. 3020-636 FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 GOLUB, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 204, tel. 421-401 Zemun, Ugrinovačka 3, tel. 316-19-89 KOŠAVA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2627-344 ORAO, Bulevar despota Stefana 32, tel. 3228-836

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.063/7784-760 (live music) AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 BELA LAĐA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. 2600-222 ČARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467 (live music) KLUB MAG, Kej oslobođenja 2c, tel. 2698-398, KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel.. 3195-905 (live music) KOGO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226

HOTELI – HOTELS CONTINENTAL HOTEL BEOGRAD, Vladimira Popovića 10, tel. 2204-204 fax 311-1402

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

117

PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 fax. 3640-381 PRAG, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 3610-422 fax 3612-691 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 fax 361-2965 ROYAL, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 2626-426 fax 2626-459 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 fax 2190-724 SLODES, Borska 92F, tel. 3055-518 fax 3056-524 SPLENDID, Dragoslava Jovanovića 5, tel 3235-444 fax 324-3298 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 fax 3224-480 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-361 fax 657-344 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 fax 3231-951 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 fax 3162-648 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-842 fax 2431-517 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 fax 289-2462 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-507 fax 3238-027 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670 fax 3540-669

HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 fax 8230-077 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. 341-6131 SUČEVIĆ M ***, Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771

APARTMENTS- APARTMANI Kraljičini apartmani*****, Đure Daničića 13, tel.322-4318 Vila Kalemegdan, Strahinjića bana 7, tel.2637-856

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 fax 311-2234 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235 PRESIDENT, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 fax 2075-260

Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4444 www.beg.aero Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel. 2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.rs

JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.com

ADMIRAL CLUB, Venizelosova 31, tel.3038-260 BAH ,Knez Mihailova 27 tel. 3312-000 BEST WESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3095-505 fax 3095-501 BEST WESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3554-255 fax 3554-368 CRYSTAL, Internacionalnih brigada 9 tel. 715-1000 EVROPA, Sremska 1, tel. 3626-017 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 fax 310-5351 LIFE DESIGN, Balkanska 18, tel. 3626-090 fax 3626-086 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 fax 2688-389 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Krađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 fax 184-458 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 fax 3057-466 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 2450-842 fax 3442-931 TOWNHOUSE 27, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. 2022-900 fax 2620-955 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel. 3314-800 fax 3314-801 ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 2645-422; fax 2686-437 BALKAN, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 fax 2687-581 ELEGANCE, Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel.2075-000 fax.2075-005 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 3035-858 fax 3035-353 N, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 fax 3955-555 NACIONAL, Autoput 5, tel. 2601-156 fax 2601-177 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 fax. 2561-090

118

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

Međunarodni železnički saobraćaj - International railway transport, tel. 360-2899 Međunarodni autobuski saobraćaj- International bus transport, tel. 2622-526, 2627-146

Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.rs

Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.com

AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRWAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroflot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000 www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrian.com BRITISH AIRWAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com QATAR,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879 QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166 www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/III, tel. 3035-738 SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 3035-739 www.srilankan.aero

AVACO RENT A CAR

A RESPECTABLE FLEET OF CARS

RESPEKTABILNA FLOTA AUTOMOBILA

vaco Rent a Car is a successful Serbian company which is more than ten vaco Rent a Car uspešna je srpska firma koja se više od deset godina bavi years engaged in renting vehicles. Its impressive fleet includes all kinds rentiranjem vozila. U njenom impozantnom voznom parku možete naći of cars – from the most luxurious MERCEDES-S class, jeeps GRAND CHEROKEE, sve vrste automobila – od najluksuznijeg mercedesa S klase, džipova grand COMMANDER, HUMMER, MERCEDES GL, LINCOLN NAVIGATOR, HONDA CRV, via cherokee, commander, hummer, mercedes GL, lincoln navigator, honda CRV, high-end cars such as CHRYSLER 300 C and MERCEDES E 200 as well as middle- preko automobila visoke klase, kao što su chrysler 300 c i mercedes E 200 i autoclass cars HONDA ACCORD, SEAT ALTEA all the way to lower mobila više srednje klase honda accord, seat altea, pa class passenger cars such as FIAT PUNTO and YUGO Coral. sve do nižih putničkih klasa fiat punto i yugo coral . U There are also field cars and vans, and if you need to get ponudi su i terenski automobili i kombiji, a ako vam somewhere really fast, Avaco has even a HELICOPTER for zatreba da negde stignete zaista brzo, Avaco ima you! čak – HELIKOPTER! As a local company Avaco is competing in the Serbian Kao domaća kompanija, Avaco se na srpskom market with the world’s brand-name car rental companies tržištu nadmeće sa svetski brendiranim rent-a-car and is hand-in-hand with them by the quality of service kompanijama i ne zaostaje za njima po kvalitetu that does not lag behind as well as by the prices that are INFO usluge, a cene su mu znatno konkurentnije. Pored much more competitive. In addition to cheaper services, Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija jeftinije usluge, Avaco Rent a Car svojim klijentima AVACO rent a car offers to its clients other benefits in the Tel: +381 11 24 33 797, +381 11 34 48 981 daje i druge pogodnosti u vidu različitih dodatnih form of various additional services and frequent dis- Fax. +381 11 24 32 010 usluga i čestih akcijskih popusta. Auto će vam čak counts. With this company, you can even have your car Mob. tel: +381 65 63 63 330 dovesti na željenu adresu. transported at the desired address. Jedna od specifičnih crta u poslovnoj filozofiji Avaco – Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, Beograd, One of the specific features of business philosophy of Tel: +381 11 22 86 434 kompanije Avaco je fleksibilnost. Tu možete iznaAvaco company is flexibility. In this company, you can rent Mob. tel: 381 65 535 33 25 jmiti auto u bilo koje doba, 24 sata dnevno, 365 a car at any time of day and night 24 hours a day, 365 days Hitne intervencije: +381 64 184 55 55 dana u godini. Ako niste aktivni vozač ili nema year. If you are not an active driver or you do not have a ate vozačku dozvolu, možete iznajmiti vozilo sa driver’s licence, can rent a car with a driver. If you arrived at the airport and you vozačem. Kada doputujete avionom, Avaco će vas sa aerodroma prevesti do bilo need a ride to any desired destination in the country, Avaco will transport you koje željene destinacije u zemlji. Na to možete računati i kada vam je potreban there. You can count on it when you need to transport goods too. prevoz robe. Since its establishment Avaco Rent a Car has carefully guarded its reputation Od osnivanja do danas Avaco Rent a Car pažljivo čuva svoju reputaciju pouzof a reliable partner, gaining many satisfied customers, both legal entities and danog partnera, čime je stekao veliki broj zadovoljnih korisnika kako pravnih individuals, both from the country and abroad. lica i pojedinaca, iz zemlje tako i iz inostranstva. BeLGUeSt BeLGUeSt BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

119

ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vladete Kovačevića 14, tel. 2653-422 fax 2653-424 ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, 8th floor, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, 3031-964 fax.2635-606 Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593

BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 Odelj. za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120

BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057 Konzulat/Consular section, tel.3038-204

BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653 BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454

CRNA GORA/MONTENEGRO, Užička 1, tel. 2662-300 fax 3699-546 ČEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 ČILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 GRČKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića bana 76, tel. 3341-507

GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566

SWISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174 www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-7225 www.thy.com

DOMAĆE AVIO KOMPANIJE AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel.2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRWAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel.3112-123, www.jat.com

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - WAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9811 HITNA POMOĆ - EMERGENCY WARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - WEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9823 MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAČNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .988 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of Internal Aﬀairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.rs

120

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363 ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel.3066-169

IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555 JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 3063-000 fax 3063-042 KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163

KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122 KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431 KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974

MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 3285-076 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 (except Wednesday)

MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013 MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 NAMIBIJA/NAMIBIA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 fax 896-732 NEMAČKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400

NORVEŠKA/NORWAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336

MeDENTA NA VRAČARU

ESTETSKA STOMATOLOGIJA KAO IMPERATIV

MEDENTA DENTAL SURGERY NOVOPAZARSKA (SIME MILOŠEVIĆA) 14/1 11000 BELGRADE Tel: +38(0)11 344-00-17, 450-215 e.mail: office@me-denta.com medenta@orion.rs www.me-denta.com APPOINTMENTS CAN BE MADE WEEKDAYS FROM 12 P.M. TO 8 P.M. WE SPEAK ENGLISH, FRENCH AND ITALIAN!

MeDENTA ON VRAČAR

COSMETIC DENTISTRY AS AN ESSENTIAL

he MeDENTA practice has been engaged in dentistry for two decades. In an attempt to respond to the demands of modern times, MeDENTA founder Dr Tatjana Savic constantly invests in new technology and the continued education of the entire medical team. At this practice you can receive a wide array of services in almost all areas of dentistry: from treatment of toothache, dental prosthetics, oral medicine and periodontics, to surgery and dental implants... RADIANT SMILES TRANSFORMED From MeDENTA’s range of services we would single out modern methods to help your beautiful and healthy teeth become even more beautiful, radiant and whiter, while rendering your smile more exciting. This offer is primarily aimed at women, whilst noting that many men may want to get a new, more beautiful and attractive smile. We present to you the modern technology that is applied by the MeDENTA practice in the service of aesthetics:

rdinacija MeDENTA se stomatološkom praksom bavi već dve decenije. Nastojeći da odgovori zahtevima vremena, osnivač MeDENTE dr Tatjana Savić neprestano ulaže u nove tehnologije i stalnu edukaciju čitavog lekarskog tima. U ordinaciji možete dobiti širok spektar usluga u gotovo svim oblastima stomatologije: od lečenja bolesti zuba, protetike, oralne medicine i parodontologije, hirurgije i implantologije... TRANSFORMISANI BLISTAV OSMEH Iz spektra usluga MeDENTE izdvajamo savremene metode uz pomoć kojih vaši lepi i zdravi zubi mogu postati još lepši, blistaviji, belji, a vaš osmeh zanosniji. Ova ponuda se pre svega odnosi na žene, uz napomenu da i mnogi muškarci mogu poželeti i dobiti nov, lepši i privlačniji osmeh. Predstavljamo vam savremene tehnologije koje, u službi estetike, primenjuje ordinacija MeDENTA: LUMINIRI (LUMINEERS) U modernom svetu danas najaktuelniju protetsku nadoknadu predstavljaju luminiri. Šta je o njima važno znati? Luminiri se apliciraju bez anestezije, bez brušenja. Dakle, nove zube dobijate bezbolno! Metod je jednostavan: najpre se uzima otisak postojeće situacije, koji potom postaje model za vaš novi osmeh. Iskusna stomatološka laboratorija na osnovu otiska modeluje odgovarajuće ljuspice koje se u jednom danu fiksiraju moćnim cementom. BELJENJE Beljenje zuba ZOOM tehnologijom završava se za samo jedan sat! Vaši zubi postaju belji za sedam do deset nijansi, a efekat izbeljivanja traje godinama. Najvažnije od svega jeste da ZOOM aparat i ZOOM gel ne oštećuje zubnu gleđ, niti na bilo koji način ugrožavaju zdravlje vaših zuba. SPECIJALNA PONUDA ZA DAME Povodom međunarodnog dana žena – 8. marta, ordinacija MeDENTA je mart proglasila za mesec BLISTAVOG, TRANSFORMISANOG OSMEHA.Za vaš novi osmeh dobićete specijalni popust od 10%.

LUMINIRI (LUMINEERS) The latest prosthetic restoration technology in today’s modern world is represented by Lumineers. What is it important to know about them? Lumineers are applied without an anaesthetic and without drilling. Quite simply, one receives new teeth painlessly! The method is simple: an impression of the existing state of the teeth is initially taken, before then becoming the model for your new smile. Experienced dental laboratories use the impression to custom design adequate veneers that are bonded to teeth in just a day by a powerful cement. WHITENING ZOOM tooth whitening technology takes just one hour to complete! Your teeth become whiter by seven to ten shades and this whitening effect lasts for years. Most importantly, the ZOOM device and ZOOM gel do not damage tooth enamel or endanger the health of your teeth in any way. SPECIAL OFFER FOR LADIES To mark International Women’s Day on 8th March, the MeDENTA surgery has declared March the month of RADIANT SMILES TRANSFORMED. For your new smile you will receive a special 10% discount.

Dr Tatjana Savić BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

121

PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085-216 POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576 PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 2662-894 fax 2662-892 REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Fruškogorska 1/II, tel. 2183-581 fax 303-6096

REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229 RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798 RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3613-964

SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 SAN MARINO/ SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel. 2666-124 fax 3440-221 SLOVAČKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 ŠVAJCARSKA/SWITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 Odeljenje za vize/ Visa Section, tel. 3065-815

ŠVEDSKA/SWEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 (except Wednesday)

TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 2651-848 TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998 Konzulat/Consular Section tel. 2660-247 VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 2659-651 UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3674-006 fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201

PRIVREDNE KOMORE - CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Terazije 23, tel. 3248-123 PRIVREDNA KOMORA SRBIJE, Resavska 13-15, tel. 3300-900 www.pks.komora.net PRIVREDNA KOMORA BEOGRADA, Kneza Miloša 12, tel. 2641-355 www.kombeg.org.rs BANKE - BANKS NARODNA BANKA SRBIJE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. 3248-841/ www.nbs.rs UDRUŽENJE BANAKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN ASSOCIATON OF BANKS, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 86/II, tel. 3020-760/ www.usb-asb.com

BEOGRADSKA BERZA - BELGRADE STOCK EXCANGE Omladinskih brigada 1, tel. 3221-599/ www.belex.co.rs

NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE ADDRESS REAL ESTATE JSCO SERBIA, Nemanjina 40/7, tel.365-00-90 www.address.co.rs BEYOND REAL ESTATE, Despota Djurdja 13, tel. 292-0377 www.beyond-realestate.com BRADMORE CONSULTING & LEASING, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel./fax: 2637-570 COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 20, tel. 2663-863, fax.3674-538

DANOS GROUP, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 2600-603, www.danos.rs EURENT, Dobračina 21, tel.2623-395, 2620-680 EURODIPLOMATIC, Real Estate & Rental Agency, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, 308-68-79 mob.065/606 6 606 INVEST-IMPORT, Terazije 5, tel. 3220-027, 3248-081 MENTOR REAL ESTATE AGENCY, Mileševska 2, tel. 308-90-80, 308-90-81 fax.308-90-82 www.mentorrent.co.rs

PC UŠĆE, EC, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85b, tel. 3010-858 fax 3010-813 R.BeO CONSTRUCTION d.o.o, mob. 063/203-929

122

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 13, tel.2666-669 fax.3066-892 www. british-int-school.org.uk

CHARTWELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 fax.3675-340 www.chartwellinternational.org

DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135 ECOLE FRANCAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762 INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL BELGRADE, Nake Spasić 4, tel.2667-130 www.insb.co.rs INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.3690-113, 2651-832 www.isb.co.rs

LOGOS, Kvarnerska 4, tel./fax 3693-059, 3693-060 www.logosinternationalschool.com PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Kvarnerska 4, tel. 369-3060 www. primainterschoolbelgrade.com

RUSSIAN SCHOOL, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 163-883

VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466 fax 2920-472 mob.062/282-434 www.vosmediator.co.rs

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060 /www.savacentar.com

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

TURISTIČKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS, Makenzijeva 26, t el. 2430-852, www.metropoliten.com EXCLUSIVE TOURS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3227-539 www.exclusivetours.co.rs MAGELAN CORPORATION, Novi Sad, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 021/6624-823 www.magelan.rs PAN EUROPA ADRIATIC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 33, tel. 3242-187 www.adriatic.co.rs PANACOMP TRAVEL TOURISM AND TRADE, Novi Sad, Bulevar Cara Lazara 102, tel. 021/ 466-075 www.panacomp.net

VEKOL TOURS, Knez Mihailova 6/III, tel. 3282-689 www.vekoltours.com

KUPOVINA – SHOPPING ZLATARE - JEWELERS JOKIĆ JEWELRY&WATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAESTRO JEWELERS, Continental hotel Beograd, tel. 311-1459, 311-3333 ext.721 Kolarčeva 4, tel. 303 30 91 VITANOV, Vasina 14, RK Beograd, tel. 2181 394 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990

MOBILNI OPERATORI / MOBILE OPERATORS 063 TELENOR, Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. 063/9863 www.telenor.co.rs 064 TELEKOM SRBIJA, Makedonska 2, tel. 064/789 www.telekom.rs 060 VIP MOBILE, Omladinskih brigada 21, 060/1234 www.vipmobile.rs BILET SERVIS - TICKET SERVICE BILET SERVIS, Trg Republike 5, tel. 30 333 11, 063/ 33 70 33 www.biletservis.co.rs EVENTIM YU D.O.O., Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 113, ulaz 3, Novi Beograd, tel./fax 144-438 www. eventim-yu.com

TICKETLINE, ugao Knez Mihailove i Čika Ljubine-Plato Music Store, tel.2030-570 www. ticketline.co.rs

TIKET SERVIS, mob. 065/888 0 555, www.tiketservis.com

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 DEŽURNI ZUBARI - EMERGENCY DENTISTS NOVI BEOGRAD, Goce Delčeva 30, tel. 2222-100 STARI GRAD, Obilićev venac 30, tel. 2635- 236, 24-hour VRAČAR, Ivana Milutinovića 15, tel. 244-1413, 24-hour APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923

INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525

BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIČKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIČKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIĆ, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIČKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122

INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557

PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 3065-888, Koste Jovanovića 87, tel.309-1000 EPILION, Admirala Geprata 13, tel. 361-1420, 361-0015 JEVREMOVA, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel. 328-1051, 638-265

USLUGE - SERVICES

BelGuest Winter | Zima 2010/11

123

KLINIKA PETKOVIĆ, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 MEDIKOM, Braničevska 8/1, tel. 3443-781, 3089-186 PAPIĆ, Milovana Marinkovića 23, tel. 397-1772, 397-4484 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808 VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436

SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIĆ”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RADNIČKI”, Tošin bunar 190, tel. 2699-119 OMLADINSKI STADION, Mije Kovačevića 10a, tel. 3291-514 ZEMUNELO, Mostarska 12, Zemun, tel. 3164-493 BAZENI - SWIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.rs JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835 LEDENA DVORANA - ICE HALL PIONIR, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.766-667 HALE SPORTOVA - SPORT CENTERS BEOGRADSKA ARENA, Novi Beograd, Španskih boraca 20, tel. 2133-516 BG SPORTSKI CENTAR KOVILOVO, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 DOM SPORTOVA “PINKI”, Gradski park 2, Zemun, tel. 3160-270 CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU “VRAČAR”, Sjenička 1, tel. 452-342 CENTAR ZA KULTURU I SPORT “ŠUMICE”, Ustanička 125, tel. 289-4533 GRADSKI CENTAR ZA FIZIČKU KULTURU, Deligradska 27, tel. 658-747 SRC “TAŠMAJDAN”, Ilije Garašanina 26-28, tel.3240-901 SRC “PIONIRSKI GRAD”, Kneza Višeslava 27, tel. 3542-094 SC “25. MAJ”, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. 2622-866 SRC “BANJICA”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 SC “VOŽDOVAC”, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-780 SC “ZVEZDARA”, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 412-353 SC “KOŠUTNJAK”, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 555-461 SC “PIONIR”, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel.766-566 SRC “11. APRIL”, Autoput 2, Novi Beograd, tel. 2671-547 PALATA SPORTOVA, Pariske komune 20, tel. 601-658

124

Winter | Zima 2010/11 BelGuest