Zest 817 Magazine // May 2019

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MAY 2019

E I G H T

O N E

THE

MARGARITA ISSUE F EATURE

CO M I N G S O O N

BY ERIC GRIFFEY

BY ROBERT PHILPOT

Beat the summer heat with a few of our favorite local margarita recipes from watering holes.

We’ve rounded up some of the best Mother’s Day brunches in town.

S E V E N

YOUR LIST IS OUR COMMAND Everything you love from Central Market is now available online. Browse our catalog and choose delivery or pick up curbside. The finest foods are now at your fingertips.

SAVOR TIME WITH

CENTRALMARKET.COM/SHOP 2 ZEST EIGHT ONE SEVEN zest817.com

May 2019

E I GH T

O N E

S E VE N

For Readers of Extraordinary Taste

Zest 817 Magazine is the premier culinary lifestyle authority for Fort Worth and surrounding areas. As the only food-andbeverage-focused print publication in Tarrant County, Zest pairs sophisticated, witty writing with stunning, styled photography, delivering the most relevant and interesting insights on local dining, beverages, home cooking, events, and entertainment.

WE CATER! TOP 10 QUESO IN TEXAS! FIRST PLACE – “BEST IN SHOW” ZestFest 13 RATED #2 RESTAURANT IN FW – TripAdvisor CRITIC’S CHOICE BEST QUESADILLA – FWW ‘13

901 North Sylvania Avenue Fort Worth, TX 76111 Phone: (817) 984.1360 | Email: info@enchiladasole.com Website: www.enchiladasole.com

May 2019

Contact

Lauren Lackey Marketing Director lauren@zest817.com

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contents EDITOR’S PICS 6 First Look

on the

COVER No one is sure about the true origin of the margarita, but we do know that Taco Heads’ Heradurra Margarita is a delicious respite from the summer heat. Photo by Twig Capra

8

Night Life

12 FEATURE 16

Secret Sauce

Enjoy recipes for some of Fort Worth’s best margaritas, including Proper’s 50, starting on page 14.

Photo by Twig Capra

25

Coming Soon

27 Zest Eight One Seven Editorial Editor-in-chief Eric Griffey Copy Editor Anthony Mariani Contributors: Ian Connally, Robert Philpot Proofreader: Taylor Provost Contributing Photographers: Twig Capra, Brian Hutson, and Crystal Wise.

For editorial questions or pitches, contact Eric Griffey at eric@zest817.com.

Production Art Director Ryan Burger Advertising Marketing Director Lauren Lackey For advertising questions, please contact Lauren Lackey at Lauren@zest817.com.

Zest 817 is available free of charge in North Texas, limited to one copy per reader. Additional copies of Zest Eight One Seven may be purchased for $1 each.

Zest Eight One Seven may be distributed only by the paper’s independent contractors or authorized distributors. No person may, without written permission, take more than one copy of Zest Eight One Seven. If you’re interested in distributing Zest Eight One Seven, please contact Ryan Burger at ryan@zest817.com.

Copyright. - The entire contents of Zest Eight One Seven are Copyright 2019 by 817 Marketing LLC. No portion may be reproduced in part or in whole by any means without express written permission of the publishers.

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ZEST817.COM

@Zest817

May 2019

May 2019

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editor’s pics

Pastries Treat yourself to a croissant at The Black Rooster Cafe (6333 Camp Bowie Blvd, Ste 204, 817738-2181) on Camp Bowie –– the almond- and chocolate-stuffed versions are our favorites.

Photo by Ryan Burger

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Try as many pastries as you can at Three Danes Baking Company (712 May St, 817-690-8465).

We recommend this Hindbaersnitter, a Danish butter cookie filled with raspberry jam tucked into a glazed shortcrust pastry and topped with sprinkles.

Photo by Brian Hutson

The packed pastry case at Fort Worth institution Swiss Pastry Shop (3936 W Vickery Blvd, 817732-5661) offers something for everyone. We suggest sampling the apricot turnover and strawberry tarts (front), strawberry rhubarb and mixed berry tarts, Napoleon and puff pastries (middle), and chocolate and lemon roulades (back).

Photo by Brian Hutson

Satisfy your sweet tooth at Stir Crazy Baked Goods (1251 W Magnolia Av, 817-862-9058). Two of our favorites are this chocolate éclair (front) and lemon chess pastry (back).

Photo by Brian Hutson

May 2019

UNPRETENTIOUS GLOBAL CUISINE

1310 W MAGNOLIA AVE. FORT WORTH May 2019

LILISBISTRO.COM zest817.com ZEST EIGHT ONE SEVEN 7

first look

Austin City Taco Co. Where

517 University Dr, 817-945-1234

Don’t-Miss Dishes

Cheat Day! Queso, eastside brisket, gulf coast shrimp, and chorizo & egg

Vibe

Bright, funky, warm, fast-paced

Taco Prices $3-$5

When

7am-10pm Mon-Wed, 7am-11pm Fri-Sat Rodriguez: “It’s an inviting, welcoming environment.”

Austin City Taco Co. Fort Worth’s newest restaurant concept transports diners south on I-35.

BY ERIC GRIFFEY PHOTOS BY CRYSTAL WISE

This partnership was sealed, fittingly, over dinner. Chef Juan

Rodriguez –– a Reata alumnus who owns and operates the outstanding Magdalana’s Catering, Events, & Weddings –– said Cam Powell hired Magdalana’s to cater an event and Powell approached him about collaborating on the idea that would become Austin City Taco Co. Powell invited the chef to his home for dinner and wine. As the two families shared a meal together, Rodriguez said he felt “a good vibe” from Powell.

Powell, Rodriguez said, “already

had the names of the tacos, which we’ve changed quite a bit. I took that and threw him ideas and recipes. We changed 80 percent of it since we first started.”

Powell wanted to recreate the atmosphere and flavors of the nationally lauded Austin taco scene, which combines two beloved styles of cuisine that are hardwired into the DNA of every Texan: Mexican food and Central Texas-style barbecue.

“If you want to classify it, I guess I’d call it gourmet tacos,” Rodriguez said. “We’re somewhere in between

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Velvet Taco and Torchy’s, but we’re doing most everything in-house.

We’re smoking our own brisket.”

That all-important brisket, he added, is made using upper twothirds choice certified Angus beef, smoked for 12 hours.

As you enter the funky, attractive storefront of Austin City Taco’s University Drive stand-alone building (in the lot that formerly housed The Grotto), you’re greeted by vibrant splashes of yellow and sea-foam blue and a green Aztec mural painted on a brick wall. Floor-to-ceiling windows

May 2019

flood the dining room with natural light. Colorful neon signs explain the ordering process at the walk-up counter.

Inside, there is both communal seating at high-top tables and leather banquettes. The patio is small-looking but comfortably seats 20-25 people.

The menu, as the name suggests, is all about tacos.

Each of the menu’s six main sections –– 12-hour brisket, all-day breakfast, chicken, pork, shrimp, and veggie –– contains creative combinations and preparations of each variation. There are also a few sides, including the irresistible Cheat Day! Queso, served with perfectly crispy fries for dipping.

The lone dessert is a honey-laced upscale take on soft-serve ice cream. All four of the accompanying bottles of hot sauce are made in-house, and Rodriguez said he hopes to see them on grocery store shelves soon.

For a restaurant that’s only been open a week at press time, the service at Austin City was remarkably smooth. It’s a concept made to scale, Rodriguez said, but they’re not in any rush to expand.

“We discussed other markets, like Arlington or Plano,” he said. “We don’t have a timeline. Now we just want to take a step back and focus on this store –– make sure it runs great. Right now we’re getting down our processes and systems.”

Rodriguez said the food stands out at his new eatery, but it’s the environment that will transport his guests.

“It’s an inviting, welcoming environment,” he said.

“Everything is open. You see the smoker, and it smells like a smokehouse. It feels like you’re taking a quick trip down 35 to Austin.”

From left to right, Austin City Taco Co.’s version of al pastor, Gulf Coast shrimp, State Fair with rotisserie chicken, chicken al carbon, and the Revolution with 12-hour-smoked brisket tacos are all swaddled inside housemade blue-and-white corn tortillas. The Cheat Day! Queso is served with crispy fries for dipping.

May 2019

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May 2019

LITTLE RED WASP KITCHEN + BAR 808 Main St, Fort Worth, TX 76102 / (817) 877-3111 / littleredwasp.com

May 2019

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Clay Pigeon’s housemade limoncello is one of the many touches Tia Downey has brought to that bar’s cocktail program.

Q&A with Tia Downey Clay Pigeon’s chief mixologist is leading one of the most creative cocktail programs in town.

BY ERIC GRIFFEY PHOTOS BY CRYSTAL WISE

Zest: Can you briefly describe your background and what sparked your interest in cocktails?

Tia Downey: My bar experience started when I was at the American Express Centurion Lounge in DFW Airport. I wasn’t even a bartender there. I was the assistant general manager over the bar program. It was there I worked with an array of bartenders who showed me many aspects of cocktail service. One was a flair bartender whose smiles, dad jokes, and bottle tricks kept everyone entertained. Another had worked in every type of bar from dive to casino. She told me she had been bartending longer than I had been alive. I even met, a role model of mine, Jim Meehan, who was our celebrity bartender in charge of the cocktail menu. I learned recipes from everyone, developed my own taste, and decided to pursue bartending as a career.

How did you land in Fort Worth?

I originally came to Fort Worth on a day trip to visit my twin, Bria, and to check out her new restaurant, Piattello. It was there I met one of the most influential people in my cocktail world, Kellen Hamrah [Clay Pigeon and Piattello general manager]. He inspired

Downey: “Cocktails for me are liquid stories.”

and motivated me to make the move from Dallas to help grow the cocktail scene of Fort Worth. He told me he had been looking for someone whose hand was on the pulse of bar culture and that I fit the build. His guidance and support have resulted in one of the best working relationships I have ever had.

What’s it like working so closely with your twin sister?

We worked together at Piattello, often on opposite schedules, so I almost didn’t notice we were a part of the same restaurant. Now at Clay Pigeon, she’s been my executive chef for more than a year, which in my opinion has allowed the overall growth of the restaurant to blossom. We constantly talk about developing new items. It reminds us of school –– just trying to achieve and maintain the high standards we set out for ourselves.

How would you describe your cocktail philosophy? What sets you apart?

Cocktails for me are liquid stories. They should evoke memories and be shared in a way so more memories are made. When I set out to make a cocktail, I

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imagine what kind of memory I want someone to have. Am I passing down a fond thought of a loved one? Enjoying myself on a patio with friends? Recreating a vacation? I take into account the seasonal offerings and find the specific feeling I want my cocktails to evoke.

What changes have you made to the cocktail program at Clay Pigeon?

I took my time changing the cocktail program at Clay Pigeon. I grew to understand my clientele there, in hopes of bettering their overall dining experience. I keep a creative yet simple classic style to my cocktails on Clay Pigeon’s menu. I do a lot of housemade items that fit within the kitchen’s overall ethos. For example, I have a cocktail on the menu that is a new house favorite, the Western Sour. I use Western Son Gin (made in Pilot Point), ruby red grapefruit juice, lemon juice, egg whites, and a housemade pecan orgeat.

May 2019

MAY is NATIONAL BURGER MONTH!

Tia Downey [right] on working with her twin sister Bria Downey [left]: “We constantly talk about developing new items.”

Where do you want to take the cocktail menu?

I eventually want my signature Clay Pigeon cocktails to be their own form of classic cocktails –– Clay Pigeon classics.

In the seemingly short amount of time I have been there, I have had guests ask me about past cocktails I’ve designed.

It’s extremely flattering to have someone just gush at you over something you made three seasons ago. Just recently, I had a guest ask me for Christmas in July because he loved my Texas egg nog so much.

What’s your process for creating a drink? Who do you test it on?

When I’m creating a drink, I either start with the base spirit or a specific flavor profile and work from there. I do a lot

of homework before I even touch a bottle. I’ll read up on that spirit, check seasonality charts, flavor pairing graphs, and even just go to the farmers’ market for inspiration. I will write recipe after recipe and talk it through with other bar nerds and foodies. Sometimes I even dream of cocktail recipes when I’m feeling especially stumped. When I’m eventually sold on an idea, I want to try it in the real world. I will test it out on myself. If I like it, I ask myself the biggest question: Is this something I like that caters to my tastes, or is this something anyone could like? From there, I generally have Bria or Kellen try it and give me their opinions. Luckily, they do not pander to my feelings. They give me honest answers and sometimes follow up with suggestions.

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What is your opinion on the state of Fort Worth’s cocktail scene?

The best part about Fort Worth is that it’s still growing. We are beginning to see people care more about the quality of a cocktail. Fort Worth is starting to recognize quality, and that is what makes the great places in Fort Worth stand out. It’s only going up from here.

Where do you go for drinks? And what do you normally order?

One of Downey’s newer additions to the cocktail menu, the Avoca Coffee Martini, features Grey Goose Le Vanille, Kahlúa, and Cointreau.

May 2019

There are a few places I like to pop in and out of. If I’m just out for drinks, I will head over to The Usual or Proper.

If I want the whole drink and dining experience, I’ll go down to the square and sit on Bird Cafe’s patio. My drink of choice is a Negroni with Plymouth Gin or anything that has a surprising combination on a drink menu.

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The Full Spread

Salsa Limon’s Classic Margarita INGREDIENTS 1.5 oz of tequila 1.5 oz of lime juice 1 oz of triple sec .10 oz of agave

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INSTRUCTIONS Combine ingredients and shake over ice Strain into a salt-rimmed glass Add the ice from the shaker Add a splash of Topo Chico or soda Garnish with a lime wheel

May 2019

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The Mysterious E IG H T ONE SE V E N

Margarita

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May 2019

Though it’s not clear who invented this classic cocktail, its popularity has never been greater.

INGREDIENTS 1.5 oz half Heradurra Reposado Tequila .5 oz Paula’s Orange Liqueur .5 Ounce agave simple syrup .75 oz fresh squeezed lime juice

BY ERIC GRIFFEY PHOTOS BY TWIG CAPRA

Of all the cocktail origin stories swirling in the ether, the birth of the margarita may be the most colorful and widely disputed. Depending on

who you believe, the ambrosial amalgam of tequila, lime, and orange liqueur was invented by one of several folks: Pancho Morales, who brought the drink stateside after he immigrated to Texas from Mexico

Taco Heads’ Heradurra Margarita

Instructions Combine ingredients and shake over ice Strain into a salt-rimmed glass Garnish with a lime wedge

page 19

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in 1942; Carlos “Danny” Herrera, who created the beverage for dancer Marjorie King in 1938; or wealthy Dallas socialite Margarita Sames, who claimed she whipped up the cocktail for friends at her Acapulco vacation home in 1948 –– where Tommy Hilton was allegedly introduced to the cocktail and subsequently added it to the bar menu of his hotel chain.

The iconic margarita is essentially a tequila version of the Daisy –– a category of

Proper’s 50 Margarita

page 20

INGREDIENTS 1.5 oz pear- and Granny Smith apple-infused tequila, .5 oz spiced- and smoke-infused Patron Citronge Limon .5 oz agave .50 oz grapefruit juice .25 oz lime juice

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INSTRUCTIONS Combine ingredients and shake over ice Strain into a glass over ice Top with East Imperial Grapefruit Soda Dust with cinnamon and nutmeg Optional: smoked salt rim

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Now Serving Fish Tacos

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sour cocktails composed of spirits, citrus juices, an orange cordial, and soda water.

Since “margarita” is Spanish for “daisy,” that origin story sounds likely. However it came to be, the margarita is the undisputed signature cocktail of Texas, and Fort Worth enjoys a glut of high-quality offerings.

For our May issue, we’ve chosen to highlight five of our favorite versions.

Each margarita we’ve featured –– courtesy of Del Frisco’s Grille, Proper, Reata Restaurant, Salsa Limon, and Taco Heads –– embodies the original spirit

Reata’s Billionaire Margarita INGREDIENTS 1.75 oz Five-year-old El Tesoro Extra Anejo Tequila .75 oz fresh lime juice .75 oz simple syrup .5 oz orange juice .75 oz Grand Marnier 1880

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INSTRUCTIONS Combine tequila, lime juice, orange juice, and simple syrup into a shaker with ice.

Shake and strain ingredients into large salted margarita glass over ice.

Pour the Grand Marnier over the top to finish the drink.

Garnish with a lime wedge

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May 2019

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May is for

Margaritas!

Breakfast Lunch and Drinks

The Hibiscus Margarita at Del Frisco’s Grille is made with Casa Dragones Blanco tequila, Cointreau, lime, and Monin hibiscus 13 syrup.

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of the drink with a creative twist. All of them use fresh ingredients and a premium tequila and are as colorful as they are delicious.

This is not meant to be a best of list or even a nod to Cinco de Mayo. We just like these five iterations of the venerable drink, and we hope they’ll inspire you to raise a glass to the unknown creator of Texas’ favorite cocktail.

May 2019

chef of the month

PAID ADVERTORIAL

Blaine Staniford, 38 GRACE + Little Red Wasp 777 Main St, Fort Worth, TX 76102 808 Main St, Fort Worth, TX 76102 Position at the restaurant: Executive Chef Married: 7 years to Dawn (Below) The spring vegetable crudite at GRACE, found on the seven-course vegetarian tasting menu, features raw, pickled, and fermented spring vegetables accompanied by a green goddess dressing, petite herbs, and flowers.

Photo by Lauren Lackey

Originally from: Houston, Texas

Where did you go to school?

Culinary Institute of America in upstate New York How did you get to where you are? I was involved in two restaurants in Dallas, Fuse and Scene, with a group of partners. My partners decided to take the projects in different directions, so I saw this as the perfect opportunity to start something new. A headhunter actually tracked me down for a project underway in Fort Worth for a Modern American menu. I met with Adam [Jones, restaurant manager] and everything just clicked. I presented a 7 course tasting for my interview in which I prepared, plated, and even served the wine myself. I think that’s ultimately what won them over. Grace’s doors opened in 2008 and I’ve been here ever since. In 2014, we decided we wanted to create a menu for everyday food, as much as we would all like to eat the food from GRACE every single day, we wanted to provide something a bit more casual and approachable, and Little Red Wasp was born.

New things going on in your restaurants?

GRACE has always prided itself on our multi-course tasting dinner options which are available nightly. We are now thrilled to offer the only fully vegetarian 7-course tasting menu!

Favorite menu item?

At Little Red Wasp, it is hands down the Reuben. It’s a nod to my New York years. The meat goes through a 3-day process to reach the table. GRACE makes things a little harder, I honestly love it all. But if I had to pick one dish, it would

May 2019

(Bottom) The corned beef sandwich at Little Red Wasp is packed with threeday-brined corned beef, baby Swiss cheese, cabbage slaw, and Wasp sauce, served in between slices of toasted rye.

Photo by Lauren Lackey

be the Maine Diver Scallops. These are a product of my French background with an incredible caviar butter sauce. The scallops themselves are sourced directly from the coast and spend only 2-3 days out of the water before making it to the plate.

Favorite piece of equipment?

At the restaurant, I would have to say our state-of-the-art cryovac, which removes 99% of the oxygen from our foods, maintaining the freshness and quality. At home, it is absolutely my pepper mill. Fresh ground pepper is a must-have.

Three Fun Facts: My favorite way to cook is over my open fire pit at home.

I am a long-time Yogi.

I have 4 dogs at home, it’s a circus!

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Who

Zara’s Afghan Cuisine

Where

120 N Walnut Creek Dr, Mansfield, 682-518-3668

Vibe Playful and bright strip-mall storefront with comfortable booths and lunch buffet

The Food of Many Flags Zara’s serves a welcome introduction to Afghan cuisine

BY IAN CONNALLY PHOTOS BY TWIG CAPRA

would turn out that I did know something about this food after all.

It shouldn’t have surprised me.

On the drive to Zara’s Afghan Afghanistan was central to the Silk Road Cuisine, a relatively new addiroutes that linked Asia and Europe for centuries. It became a center of wealth tion to Mansfield’s expanding due to this trade, and its cuisine reflects landscape of non-chain restauthat commerce. Reading the menu, rants, I had a few minutes to I found influences from India in the consider what exactly I knew kormas, tandoori, and masala alongside about Afghan cuisine. Generally, recognizably Mediterranean offerings Afghanistan comes up in my reading like hummus, baba ghanoush, and and discussions because of geo-politics, kabob. Central Asia was there, too, in the war, and the devastation wrought by mantu, steamed dumplings stuffed with 150 years of aspiring imperial powers savory ground beef, brightened with cocompeting for position in the region. It’s riander and topped with fiercely garlicky a history that has long kept the once-viyogurt sauce. brant nation wedged between Pakistan But what, I asked our host, would and Iran off the list of popular tourist exemplify Afghan food? Come for the destinations and, as a result, Afghan food buffet and try a little of everything, off the radar of most diners who don’t he suggested, but failing that, chicken live in cities with a large Afghan commu- tikka kabob on pilau rice with naan. We nity. In short, I knew nothing. should order a vegetable dish, too, he ofAs I sat in a buoyant red-leatherette fered. Maybe banjan borani –– fried eggbooth in Zara’s airy strip-mall storefront, plant in masala sauce –– and some bolani the wafts of cumin, turmeric, and chargandana, a platter-sized grilled flatbread grilled meats coming from the kitchen stuffed with leeks and chives. To finish, evoked the tandoori baklava. There to houses of my childlearn, I followed his hood in the south of guidance.

England. Looking At first glance, over the beverage the flatbread resemmenu, I noticed bled Indian paratha. hot black tea was Thin, crisp-grilled on offer, and, never dough enveloped one to avoid living sweet, tender leeks up to a stereotype, and a mix of chive, Zara’s baklava I ordered a cup. garlic, and cilantro. cradles a filling Dipped in the gar“Calvin & Hobbes” of walnuts and comic strips, another lic-yogurt sauce that dried fruit. staple of my youth, is seemingly served decorated the table.

Don’t-Miss Dishes with everything at Confusingly, in a Zara’s, this was a Mantu, chicken tikka kabob, space where I could satisfying, savory baklava have felt like a appetizer, rich and stranger, I felt right Entree Prices bright. The kabobs, at home. Perhaps it $9.95-$16.95 tandoori-red cubes was the service: hosof chicken breast pitable, inviting, and When marinated in a spice warm. Or perhaps it 11am-2:30pm, 6pm-9pm daily blend anchored by

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Zara’s beef kabob is a perfect iteration of the ways Afghan cuisine has absorbed and assimilated the flavors and techniques that surround it.

cumin, sat on a bed of my new favorite rice. Long-grained like basmati, it was crisp and brown with a sweet spice reminiscent of garam masala. This was clearly not Indian food: The spice blends were more reserved, sweeter, more savory than spicy, but it was definitely related –– a perfect iteration of the ways Afghan cuisine has absorbed and assimilated the flavors and techniques that surround it.

Zara’s baklava is also familiar yet new. Like the better-known Middle-East-

ern versions, ethereally flaky phyllo layers with syrup –– here, not cloyingly sweet, but refined, allowing the dough and filling to shine –– and cradles a filling of walnuts and dried fruit. It was the introduction to Afghanistan I needed –– that we all need –– not as a contested landscape viewed through the lens of a century of invasions but as a home, a place rich and vibrant, with a cuisine that reflects a history steeped in the cultures of South and Central Asia.

May 2019

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Coming Soon Mother’s Day Brunch Roundup Give your mom the only thing she wants on her day: brunch.

BY ROBERT PHILPOT

Mother’s Day is the busiest brunch day of the year –– busy enough that some restaurants that are usually closed on Sundays open for that lovely meal after breakfast but before lunch. Here are our picks for some of the best ways to treat your mother –– yes, even a brunch served in a gas station.

By the way, if you haven’t made reservations, make them now. Seatings tend to fill up fast, and Mom warned you what would happen if you dilly-dally.

B&B Butchers,

5212 Marathon Av, 817-737-5212 The steakhouse and more at the Shops at Clearfork will open early for Mother’s Day (10am-3pm), offering its full brunch menu. The a la carte lineup is pretty extensive, with breakfast dishes ranging from a simple $11 pancake stack with mixed berries to a show-Mom-howmuch you love her Lux & Lox (lox with Assetra caviar, truffle cream cheese, and more) for $46. The lunch side of the brunch menu offers such simple items as a BLT ($13) as well as more extravagant choices, including a Club Cut ribeye ($38) or wasabi-crusted tuna ($36). For the full brunch menu, visit Bbbutchers.com/ fortworth. There will be live music on the patio, along with a balloon artist and a B&B Texas longhorn for photo ops. Customers can also pre-order a flower arrangement ($85-$215) for the table from Cityview Florists and Gifts when making their reservations –– 48-hour notice is required for the flower arrangements.

Bird Café

155 E 4th St, 817-332-2473 The Sundance Square Plaza restaurant will serve its usual brunch (10am-3pm), with a few special offerings. The most attention-getting one is the churro waffle (a cinnamon-sugar waffle with mixed berries, spiced chocolate, and whipped cream). Others include a loaded BLT (with bacon, arugula, fried green tomato, and an over-easy egg) and, on the relatively healthy side, grilled asparagus with poached eggs, crispy ham, and hollandaise. For dinner, Bird will offer a three-course prix-fixe menu, including your choice of rosemary chicken fettuccine and Texas chicken-fried steak as main-course

The Pain Perdu at GRACE (777 Main St, 817-877-3388) is topped with marinated Texas berries and Vermont maple syrup.

Photo Courtesy of GRACE options and a choice of honey-poached pear or lemon chess pie for dessert. Dinner is $45. An optional wine pairing is an additional $25.

Blue Mesa Grill,

612 Carroll St, 817-332-6372 One of the most popular weekend brunches will extend its hours for Mother’s Day, with brunch available from 8am to 8pm on May 12. If you’d rather do Mother’s Day Eve, brunch will also be available from 10am to 3pm on May 11. The buffet will include a huevos rancheros/omelet bar, smoked chicken enchiladas, Blue Mesa’s signature Adobe Pie, a street taco bar, waffles, chicken, salads, and more. Dessert stations will offer double chocolate fudge brownies, buildyour-own ice cream sundaes, churros, and cookies. The $24 cost includes champagne, mimosas, coffee, and soft drinks. For children 6-11, the brunch is $7, and it’s free for kids 5 and under. Blue Mesa will not accept reservations for the brunches but will offer call-ahead seating.

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Chef Point Modern Bar & Restaurant,

5901 Watauga Rd, Watauga, 817-656-0080 Long known as Chef Point Cafe, the “gourmet restaurant in a gas station” quietly underwent a recent name change that better reflects the fare it offers. For Mother’s Day (10am-8pm), the a la carte menu ranges from a $20 Monte Cristo to a $32 smoked blackened ribeye, with such attention-getting options as New Zealand lamb chops smothered in brown mint sauce ($28) and grilled swordfish stuffed with fresh crabmeat, bell peppers, onions, and pepperjack ($30). A Colleyville location is due to open soon, but at press time, it didn’t look like it would make it for Mother’s Day.

Ellerbe Fine Foods,

1501 W Magnolia Av, 817-926-3663 The West Magnolia Avenue fine-dining spot is one of those places that opens on Sunday only for Mom –– well, the website says “mother,

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grandmother, aunts, sisters, and friends.” Even then, it does it only for a few hours (10am-2:30pm). This year’s three-course prix-fixe menu includes three entree choices: mojo de ajo wild Texas Gulf shrimp, Vital Farms eggs Florentine tartine, or herb-scented grilled chicken breast with sweet corn pudding, sauteed peas, Shines Farms carrots, and more. The dessert course is P.S. I Love You cake, a poppyseed cake with vanilla-scented whipped mascarpone and a strawberry citrus coulis. The cost is $45, with a children’s menu available for $22.

GRACE,

777 Main St, 817-877-3388 Another restaurant that doesn’t usually offer Sunday brunch, Grace makes an exception for Mom (11am2pm), serving up most of its regular menu (priced a la carte) as well as a few brunch items, including a $49 Eggs Benedict with petite filet, lump crab, and Béarnaise sauce, in case you want to show your mother how extravagantly you love her. On the other end of the scale, there’s pain perdu with Texas berries and Vermont maple syrup for $14. They’re also open for dinner from 5 to 9pm.

Next Bistro,

5003 Colleyville Blvd, 682-325-4046 The Colleyville restaurant will serve a three-course prix-fixe brunch for Mother’s Day (11am-3pm). Entree choices include New Orleans-style shrimp with fresh stone-ground grits, veal-stuffed quail with squash risotto, boeuf en croute with merlot sauce, lobster mac ’n’ cheese, or fresh fish of the day. Vegetarian options are available on request.

There’s a choice of desserts as well, but we’re not sure we could pass up something called Chef Ying’s “Hiccough” Rum Cake. For

the full menu, visit Next Bistro’s Facebook page. The cost is $44.95 per person, with a children’s menu available for $12.95.

Omni Hotel Fort Worth,

1300 Houston St, second floor, 817-350-4106 The Omni is known for big blowout special-event brunches, and that’s what Mother’s Day will bring –– a buffet centered on two entrees (coq au vin and smoked portobello-stuffed pork loin), with a carving station for both prime rib and banana-leaf-wrapped salmon. There’s also a cold display (fruits, berries, and assorted salads); shrimp, crab claws, salmon pastrami, and smoked salmon on ice; cheese and charcuterie; various breads; eggs to order; a “pasta action” station; and multiple desserts. Seating is every half-hour from 11am to 3pm on May 12. The cost will be $68 for adults, $40 children 6-12, and free for children 5 and under.

Queenie’s Steakhouse,

115 E Hickory St, Denton, 940-442-6834 Have Mother’s Day brunch (11am3pm) at the Denton restaurant named for Chef Tim Love’s mother.

The three-course prix-fixe dinner includes such entree options as pan-seared chicken Milanese, pork-belly Eggs Benedict, and a four-ounce tenderloin with asparagus and baked lobster mac. The cost is $49.

Taste Community Restaurant,

1200 S Main St, 817-759-9045 The pay-what-you-can restaurant will serve a Mother’s Day brunch (11am-2pm) with entree choices that include lamb and egg flatbread, a brie-topped omelet, and cinnamon-raisin French toast.

On the lunch side, choose from grilled chicken salad, chicken picatta, or a vegan Beyond Burger. Small-plate options include campechana (Mexican seafood soup) and a vegan cauliflower soup. Taste’s mission is to help people who are “food insecure” and might not know where their next meal is coming from, but everyone is welcome.

And because this is Mom’s day, if you can afford it, it might be a good idea to pay a little more than you’d usually pay.

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