Riscky: “You go to Joe Riscky’s Barbecue, and nine times out of 10, Joe Riscky is going to be there cutting the meat because I’ve been there all day cooking it.” Photos by Crystal Wise.
E IG H T ONE SE V E N
The Craft Explosion Fort Worth is on the verge of becoming a barbecue destination thanks to a new breed of pitmasters. BY ERIC GRIFFEY
Listening to Joe Riscky discuss his barbecue was something akin to attending a sommelier’s master class. He casually tossed
around trade jargon like “bark” and “smoke ring,” as well describing his brisket smoking process with the
precision of a chemist. At his small walk-up counter enclave tucked inside the warehouse complex that houses Wild Acre Brewing Company in South Fort Worth, owner/pitmaster Riscky, who split from his family of local ’cue luminaries, beamed over a large
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Wild Acre cardboard box crammed with brisket, ribs, jalapeño-and-cheese-stuffed sausage, and more. Sitting on that “plate” was his life’s work –– and a harbinger of important changes to our city that could impact far more than just your choices for lunch.
April 2019