Fragrance Industry Research
Zoe Ling Fashion Communication and Promotion
Across the globe, there is stark differences in how fragrance is marketed and purchased. Two cities which encapsulate this contrast are Paris and New York City. The Paris fragrance industry values tradition and heritage, whilst New York favours excitement, modernity and innovation. Essentially they represent a contrast between old and new.
The 2011 BBC documentary ‘Perfume’ explores these two cities in its first episode. It focuses on the institution of Guerlain in Paris and Tommy Hilfiger in New York, comparing the way they work. At Tommy Hilfiger, far more focus was put on the product concept, bottle and marketing scheme. They were keen to push a clear, straightforward story about music. The scent itself was really an afterthought. However at Guerlain, they started with choosing the scent they wanted to launch, then chose the bottle design and campaign based on that, with the story focusing on the fragrances heritage. Their priorities are very different.
Fragrance is used in Paris to tell a story. It’s something personal, romanticized. They want the consumer to select the fragrance that is most closely suited to them; not what is new or on trend. There is a longevity to it. A deep attachment is formed between the consumer and their favourite fragrance, it becomes a part of their style, their identity almost. They typically stay loyal to the brand, returning to repurchase time and time again.
In New York City, perfume is viewed as a fashion accessory. Something that complements an outfit, yet can be regularly changed according to trends. Department stores such as Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s have expansive fragrance and beauty halls filled with products. With over 100 fragrances being launched every year, the consumer is constantly being bombarded with fragrance after fragrance, the choices are almost unlimited. However it could be argued that this comes at a cost. Brands are so eager to churn out new products, the market is oversaturated. The romance and heritage has been lost.
What I like about the Parisian fragrance market is that it feels very authentic. Genuine care goes into each fragrance to make the best possible scent. Brands like Guerlain have a strong heritage, and I think that staying true to it is what motivates them to create high quality products.
Although many New York fashion houses have a similarly rich history, a lot of them just don’t have that same level of pride and quality when it comes to fragrance. While I appreciate that they always want to excite the consumer with something new, personally I would rather purchase from a brand that puts the fragrance first and has a simpler aesthetic than one which tries to be on trend.
In my opinion, there aren’t any perfume shopping environments that are designed for Generation Z. Department stores are very much targeted to an older market. Chain perfume stores, whilst affordable, don’t offer anything special or luxurious. Boutiques often emit a sense of snobbery and exclusivity. Gen Z generally prefer to shop online. E-Retailers such as ASOS, Missguided and Boohoo are some of the most popular brands amongst young people. It’s no secret that online shopping comes with a plethora of benefits: you can search for what you want, every product and size is right there, there’s no crowds of shoppers, it’s easier, quicker and you can do it from the comfort of your own home. However, the nature of perfume means it is very difficult to sell online. No matter how good the bottle looks or how the scent is described, most people wouldn’t buy a fragrance product without smelling it first. Furthermore, the popularity of online comes at the detriment of high street retailers. Many of the locations where perfume can be bought are suffering; department stores such as Debenhams and House of Fraser are closing across the country, whilst even drugstore giant Boots just saw in their worst financial quarter ever and are currently reviewing their UK stores for potential closures.
“There aren’t destinations for fragrance...it’s the same old shit. If you can do things that are experiential, interesting, engaging and speak to people, then that’s the way you’re going to get people through the door” Nick Gilbert
“Offline retail hasn’t learnt enough from online retail. They’ve got to be more intelligent about how they are positioning the product and how they’re selling it to people because they haven’t changed, whereas shopping media has changed.” Eli Ankutse
Primary Research Survey
For my primary survey, I focused on questioning Generation Z. Over half said they had purchased a fragrance for themselves, which was higher than I anticipated, because perfume is expensive and Gen Z don’t have much disposable income. The same amount also said fragrance is an important part of a person’s style. This could explain why Gen Z want to choose and buy for themselves - it’s about self-expression.
The majority of Gen Z favoured drug stores or department stores for perfume shopping. They cited mainly practical reasons: price was by far the most common, followed by the product range. There wasn’t any positives about the store environment or experience. It seems they shop for convenience when it comes to fragrance.
Almost everyone agreed that perfume retailers aren’t suited to young people. When asked what they dislike about them, I received a range of answers. Cost was, as expected, a major factor. They also mentioned pushy/ intimidating shop assistants, not being able to smell all the different scents and boring shops. In fact, almost every aspect of the shopping experience was criticised by someone. It seems that the perfume industry are going to have to fully rethink how they sell if they want to connect with Gen Z.
Innovative Fragrance
To celebrate their 10th anniversary, Byredo released an ‘unnamed’ fragrance, which comes in a blank bottle with a sheet of letters so the consumer can choose and apply their own name. With no name, colour, imagery or information about the notes to indicate the scent’s purpose, it’s completely up to the wearer to form their own associations. Had the fragrance been paired with an image of a woman in a sequin gown, for example, the consumer would immediately know it was glamorous and luxurious. By stripping back any such distractions, Byredo has put the focus entirely on the scent and allows the consumer to create their own story from there. With scent and memory being so closely linked, that’s a powerful tool. What I found most interesting was finding what people had called theirs; answers ranged from ‘forest dew’ to ‘city lights’ - clearly some very different interpretations.
One of the biggest issues with perfume shopping is the fact that, after trying one of two scents, they all blur together; a few people mentioned this in my primary survey. Paperscent took notice of this issue and have created a technology to combat it: a machine that dispenses paper perfume strips. The machine sprays a small quantity onto the strip whilst it’s still inside. This prevents the different scents mingling together in the air; the consumer can clearly identify each scent. It also embosses each strip with the brand name, adding a touch more luxury and convenience to the shopping experience.
Modern Romance
The internet has revolutionised every aspect of our lives - including romance. Gone are the days when eyes met across a crowded room: now, love is more likely to blossom from a right swipe or instagram like. Ideas about traditional romance that were perpetrated in novels and films across the 20th century just don’t feel realistic anymore. Millennials and Generation Z are known for their ‘realistic not optimistic’ outlooks. Brands often choose a humourous, relatable approach to romance. Diversity in romance is also a key issue right now. As the LGBTQ+ community has become more accepted, their representation has increased. This has been prevalent across all areas of culture including film, music, fashion and advertising.
How technology has changed romance 49.7 million people in America have tried online dating. The tinder app alone has done over 20 billion matches.
Over half of people think online dating is a good way to meet potential dates, but 23% say its desperate.
It’s not just for hook-ups: 80% of people on tinder are looking for serious dates and long term relationships.
People Who Met Their Spouse Online are More Likely to Say Their Marriage is Satisfying.
79% of tinder users are Millenials or Generation Z. They are primarily looking for entertainment and hook-ups.
In their 2018 marketing, OkCupid aimed to challenge the preconception that dating apps are just for hook-ups. Their ‘DTF’ campaign swaps out the meaning of the ‘F’ in the texting abbreviation to give the phrase different connotations. While the campaign isn’t overly sexual, its miles from traditional romance. The posters are visually striking, pairing bright, complementary colours and a bold font with wacky, semi-abstract imagery. It presents modern romance as fun, experimental, and definitely not serious. It’s also effortlessly diverse, featuring interracial and LQBTQ couples in a way that feels completely natural.