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FCP Fashion Landscapes
Summative Brief Zoe Ling N0778581
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Dr. Martens
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Glamour & Drama
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Space
Contents Contexts Ideas Concepts Outcomes Bibliography & References
Contexts
Dr. Martens
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Brand History The Dr. Martens brand began with the fusion of a family-owned work boot manufacturer and a german footwear engineer. The now iconic DM 1460 boots were originally designed for manual workers, however the social revolution of the 1960s saw them being adopted by the subculture group ‘Skinheads’, as a symbol of working class pride. Over the next four decades, the boots were worn by anti-establishment youth culture groups such as Goths and Punks. DMs became synonymous with music, self-expression and rebellion, something the brand prides itself on to this day.
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I visited the Dr. Martens store in Newcastle to investigate how the brand currently use space. Considering that Dr. Martens is a brand that celebrates creativity and individuality, I felt that their retail space was quite uninspiring. Whilst there were
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one or two unique features, such as the jukebox, for the most part, the visual merchandising just consisted of products placed on simple shelves and tables. Visiting the store did not feel like a unique or memorable experience. Fig. 9
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Dr. Martens stands for individuality and diversity, highlighted by their slogan ‘Celebrate Different’. The brand values quality and British authenticity. In the 1980s, girls customized their DMs and, to this day, Dr. Martens continues to encourage creativity and self-expression. Various genres of music including Punk, Grunge and Britpop have all been linked to Dr. Martens, using the boots as a statement against the establishment.
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Consumer Profile
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“For five decades Dr. Martens have been worn by workers, rebels, non-conformists and individuals of all tribes�
Glamour & Drama
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On the Spring/Summer 2019 catwalks, the trend for Glamour and Drama has manifested itself in two keys ways. Brands such as Mugler have taken a masculine approach using structure, print and a monochromatic colour scheme, paired with urban accessories. Alternatively, the likes of Rodarte and Marc Jacobs have taken luxury fabrics and voluminous dresses to create a hyper-feminine, fairytale fantasy.
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Rodarte has captured a fairytale take on glamour. Gorgeous, embellished gowns have been coupled with storybook accessories. The use of space, decorated like a garden, contributes to the theatrical escapism of the show.
Ryan Lo
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Alexandre Vauthier has created drama in his collection through the use of structure and asymmetry. The juxtaposition of the luxurious outfit against an urban background creates contrast, which is a key part of the glamour and drama trend for 2019
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Celine
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‘Glamour and Drama’ has immediate connotations of celebrity and old Hollywood, but it also runs much deeper than that. Theorist Judith Brown describes it as ‘an experiential site of consumer desire, fantasy, sexuality, class and racial identity’ (Brown, 2009). In short, glamour means aspiration. From the 1920s Jazz Clubs, to Old Hollywood actresses, to the garments on catwalks today, the trend is rooted in the consumers aspirations.
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Tracing the trend further back, the term glamour was originally used to refer to magic, enchantments. Witchcraft and magic is something which has emerged as a lifestyle and fashion trend in recent years, both on the catwalk and the high street. The garments can have a typically glamourous appearance, for example, Dior’s long, embellished skirts, or a more modern, urban look like Urban Outfitter’s digitally printed tops.
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Space
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The term Space refers to any physical place that consumers can go to, either interior or exterior. It includes retail space such as stores and pop-ups, exhibitions and the venues used to hold events such as fashion shows. Space is multi-sensory, so the designer would need to consider sight, such as the architecture and features, sound and music, scent and touch and texture, as well as how to consumer would interact with the space.
Space Includes... >>General Layout >>Window Displays >>Visual Merchandising >>Art Installation >>Walls, Ceiling and Flooring >>Styling of Mannequins >>Clothes Rails >>Furniture; Shelves, Tables, Seating >>Point of Sale >>Dressing Rooms
Limitations of Space • Can be limited by the logistics of the location, such as the size • Requires consumers to travel to the space, which means it may not be accessible to everyone • Very expensive to produce • Requires the other outcome types to promote and support it, for example, digital to spread the word or print to display on the walls • Physical retail space is losing popularity in comparison to online retail
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Benefits of Space
• Brings the brand to life • Gives the consumer an upclose, real-life look at the products • Immersive and multi-sensory experience which is memorable for the consumer • An innovative space would gain press coverage and consumer buzz • Can reflect and communicate the brands identity
Innovative Space
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Primary Research
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Ideas
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Ideas for concepts
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Final Idea Create a fantasy transformation for Dr. Martens stores that will offer the consumer escapism and opportunities for self-expression
Concepts
Concept 1
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Concept 2
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Concept 3
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Final Concept >> Multi-sensory, fully immersive experience >> Gives the consumer an incentive to go in store >> Follows the results of my primary research: consumer want something unique and interesting you can’t get online >> Makes use of new digital technologies >> Fits the fantasy aspect of glamour and drama >> Fun, creative and experiemntal like the Dr. Marten’s brand
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Outcomes
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My outcome is an interactive experience which will be in Dr. Martens stores, giving consumers an incentive to visit. Upon entering, the store is completely minimal; white walls and furniture, no decoration and no music. The products are displayed simply on shelves. The consumer picks the shoes they want to try, and a member of
staff shows them to a fitting room, which is similarly all white. The attentiveness of the staff Is key, as my primary research identified that good customer service is the most important factor. Once the consumer has tried on the product, they use a discreet panel to select the dream they would like to try out. At the touch of a button, the dressing
room is transformed. Video is projected onto the walls, floor and ceiling, and the surfaces have sensors which means they respond to the consumers touch. Music and scent add to the fully immersive experience. For example, imagine you select the fantasy of headlining at Glastonbury. The walls would display screaming crowds, the floor below you the panels of the stage. You would hear the audience and the backing band. Or you’re in a luxury hotel room and you smell expensive perfume and the velvet curtains open and close as you touch them, revealing gorgeous views of Paris. The experiences available all reflect the theme of fantasy glamour, and each Dr. Martens store would have different ones available, showing their distinct individuality. The consumer gets to have an aspirational experience whilst wearing the product which will create an emotional connection, hopefully leading to a purchase.
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Bibliography
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Available from: https://therake.com/stories/style/how-dr-martensbecame-iconic/ Smith, J. 2018. Heddels. [Online]. [3 January 2019]. Available from: https://www.heddels.com/2018/08/dr-martens-history-philosophy-iconic-products/ Virtual on. c2018. VirtualOncouk. [Online]. [20 January 2019]. Available from: https://www.virtualon.co.uk/interactive-touch-surfaces/ Vogue. 2018. Celine RTW coverage. [Online]. [13 December 2018]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring2019-ready-to-wear/celine Vogue. 2018. Ryan Lo RTW Coverage. [Online]. [13 December 2018]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2019-ready-to-wear/ryan-lo
In Text Citations Brown, J (2009). Glamour in six dimensions. USA: Cornell University Press.
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