S
FCP
creative connections
summative brief Zoe Ling N0778581
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Contexts
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Ideas
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Concepts
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Outcomes
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Bibliography & References
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“but near missed things” Set up in 2014, Ader Error are based in Seoul, South Korea. They consider themselves ‘a culture brand based in fashion’ (Deleon, 2018): their staff have backgrounds in everything from architecture to food. Their slogan ‘but near missed things’ refers to the fact they take inspiration from what is around them. Ader Error’s bold designs effortlessly collide the past with the future. Their garments wouldn’t look out of place on the racks at an 80s vintage sale, yet hold their own alongside the likes of Balenciaga and Versace in Selfridges. Their Puma collaboration trainer, for example, could have been designed in 1990 or 2030. They boldly reject many of the streetwear industry’s popular marketing techniques;
sponsored social media posts, use of influencers, big-name creative directors. It’s just the brand, their three instagram accounts and their anonymous ‘crew’. I chose Ader Error because I feel like they are a brand of the future. They have already made waves in Korea, and they have the potential to do the same here in Europe. Korea is hugely popular in both the beauty and music sectors at the minute, so it’s exciting to see where they could take fashion and fragrance. Furthermore, considering how large and innovative the streetwear market is right now, very few brands have branched out into fragrance. There’s a clear gap in the market, and a clear consumer.
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brand values Immediacy & Ease
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Quality of Design Considered Fun & Curation Humour
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Newness & Creativity Individual Identity Fig. 8
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The streetwear fragrance market is relatively sparse. There’s several, accessible options around the £70 mark, with one or two more expensive, exclusive options. Stussy’s incense collab is the cheapest by far at £14. The clearest gap in the market is low price but exclusive.
For the release of their S/S 2019 collection, Ader Error released a campaign video on their website. The film is very surreal and abstract; unlike a typical lookbook, it has a narrative. No context around the situation is established, however there are connotations of a post-apocalyptic future. This mirrors the futuristic style of Ader’s clothing. The tone of the film walks the line between humorous and serious, which perfectly summarizes Ader’s brand identity. To launch their collaboration collection with Puma in 2018, Ader Error hosted a series of art exhibitions in Seoul, London and New York. They brought their concept of Futro (future blended with retro) to life through various art installations that incorporated pieces from the collection. For their second season with Puma, they put on a similar exhibition, this time themed around science. My favourite detail from this campaign was the invitations. Each guest received a small package of science equipment, with instructions for an experiment which would reveal the details of the event. A unique touch that would fully immerse each guest, and give the event a secretive, exclusive feel. Fig. 10
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Nostalgic for a time they can’t even remember Considers themself a creative Keeps up with the news and cultural events Unimpressed by celebrity culture Lives in a student house with 5 friends Politically left wing Watches cartoons from their childhood
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On the Gen Z/Millenial cusp Studies fine art at university Thinks the government has ruined their future Works a weekend job in a bar to fund their shopping habits Likes to be ahead of fashion trends Influenced most by their friends and peers Mixes vintage finds with current streetwear pieces
retail spaces There is a distinct lack of fragrance shopping environments suited to the modern Gen Z consumer. Department stores are very much targeted to an older market. Chain perfume stores, whilst affordable, don’t offer anything new or exciting. Boutiques often emit a sense of snobbery and intimidation. Gen Z generally prefer to shop online. E-Retailers such as ASOS, Missguided and Boohoo are some of the most popular brands amongst young people. However, whilst online shopping comes with a plethora of benefits, like every platform, it has its limitations. The nature of perfume means it is very difficult to sell online. No matter how good the
bottle looks or how the scent is described, most people wouldn’t buy a fragrance product without smelling it first. Furthermore, the popularity of online comes at the detriment of high street retailers. Many of the locations where perfume can be bought are suffering; department stores such as Debenhams and House of Fraser are closing across the country, whilst even drugstore giant Boots just saw in their worst financial quarter ever and are currently reviewing their UK stores for potential closures. Fragrance retail is suffering; new ways to reach the consumer need to be created.
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Perhaps surprisingly, only a quarter prefer unisex fragrances to gendered ones
Most people would rather have a selection of different fragrances than just stick to one signature scent
A small majority of Gen Z prefer to buy high-end fragrances rather than a cheaper options
Most people said that they don’t care about the brand as long as the scent is appealing Fig. 22-27
Only a small percentage would purchase a fragrance online that they hadn’t smelt first
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However this more than doubles when it’s specified that the fragrance would cost less than £10
Throughout history, fashion and culture has looked to the past for inspiration. The fashion cycle is recurring; trends constantly fluctuate in and out of popularity, remaining latent for a period of time before inevitably coming back into fashion, often through deliberate references. Fashion theorist Valerie Steele suggests that ‘No sooner is a period over than it starts to get referenced’ (Reynolds, 2011). However, over the past few years, the resurgence of past trends has been more apparent than ever. There’s a deeper cause behind it than simply the passing of time. Nostalgia has transformed from a fleeting feeling to a macro
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trend encompassing all areas of our culture. Eighties and nineties inspired clothes and accessories have been seen everywhere from the catwalk to the high street, and early adopters are now exploring the trends of the noughties. Nostalgia cycles used to last about 40 years. Now, they are much shorter. Millennials and Generation Z are experiencing a phenomenon called ‘early onset nostalgia’: ‘a strong yearning for easier, carefree times’(WGSN, 2016.) as a form of escapism. Because of this, nostalgia has become a powerful marketing tool, that many sectors, from fashion to food to film, theatre and television, have taken advantage of.
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Young people are living through a time of political turmoil. The past represents a time when there was still optimism. Those who grew up over the millenium in particular “end up romanticizing simpler times much more – even those times they weren’t around for.” (Dua, 2015) Whether it was any better back then is arguable, but Millenials and Gen Z were certainly more oblivious to world events.
Due to smartphones and the internet, we are constantly being bombarded with huge amounts of information, data and images. Retreating to the past allows us to switch off from this and return to a simpler time. Research CMO Jamie Gutfreund describes the phenomenon as “‘early-onset nostalgia’; where there is such an information overload that it has compressed [Millenial’s] sense of time” (WGSN, 2016).
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Millenials and Gen Z have a very low estimation of their own futures. Students are faced with years of debt, job prospects are slim, house prices rising. And that’s all if our planet can survive to support us. Because the past is ‘done’, there’s a sense of certainty there. In comparison to the uncertainty of the present and future, it’s an appealing place to escape to.
One way consumers can express their craving for nostalgia is through the medium of play and acting like children again, something there have been several different fads for in recent years. Take gaming for example; gaming psychologist Jamie Madigan suggests that ‘video games can elicit more nostalgia than any other medium’ (Radin, 2017). It’s the idea of performing an action, and getting fully immersed into something that is so powerful. And according to mental health site HelpGuide, it can have numerous benefits such as relieving stress, stimulating the mind, boosting creativity, improving resistance to disease and improving relationships with others (Robinson et al., 2018).
Fig. 48 Get an adult colouring book
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Fig. 51 Visit a ball-pit bar
Swing at the Tate
See a creative consellor
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Ader Error have a clear aesthetic, that they frequently convey through creative use of space and installation
Traditional methods of fragrance retail aren’t connecting with young people, however they are reluctant to purchase fragrance online
There are clear gaps in the streetwear fragrance market: most notably, for a fragrance that has a sense of exclusivity but is affordable for Gen Z
The majority of consumers prefer to change up their fragrance regularly - think fast fashion, but for scent
Nostalgia is an increasingly powerful way to resonate with Millennials and Gen Z, particularly through the medium of childhood play.
Disruptive but is it Ader?
Important to Ader - aspects of could be worked into another
Comfort can be created through nostalgia
Could be visually interesting - feels very Ader
Ader already do something similar on their ader_styling instagram
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Could be an interesting in a video campaign would it work for other platforms?
How can this resonate with Gen Z specifically?
f this idea
90s and 00s have the strongest connection to Gen Z
Too stereotypical of the fragrance market
Doesn’t fit Ader’s values - they are a genderless brand Not exciting/ disruptive enough
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Sending out samples with online clothing/beauty orders
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Fragrance vending machine
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Partnering with an influencer
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A fragrance subscription service
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The Idea A series of 15 miniature fragrances that are sold in mys-
tery bags, much like Gogos or Match Attax. The ‘collect them all’ feel will create an attachment with the consumer, and add a sense of exclusivity. Just like the childhood toys they are inspired by, some fragrances will be rarer than others and they will be sold in newsagents and supermarkets
Review For this idea to work, the price would have to be quite low,
however it does fit with my research showing people want multiple fragrances. The collectable factor is fun, and I can see it taking off. Selling in a supermarket is certainly disruptive, but I’m not sure how well it suits Ader.
The Idea The fragrance comes in a black and white bottle that
you colour in yourself, appealing to Ader’s creative consumer and values. There would be a range of five scents, with different bottle designs inspired by Korean graphic design.
Review I think this idea really suits the brands values, but it doesn’t feel particularly Gen Z specific or of the zeitgeist. It would work better for an older consumer
The Idea A collaboration with a nostalgic gaming brand such as
Nintendo or Playstation. Pop-up events will take place across the country; consumers will have to attend an event and complete a gaming challenge on a retro games console. Fragrances will then be awarded as prizes to the top players, and will also be available to purchase.
Review I love the competitive aspect, as it adds an element of exclusivity, and gaming is a powerful source of nostalgia, however I don’t think there is enough emphasis on the actual fragrance.
A series of 15 mini fragrances that come in mystery bags, similar to Gogos or Match Attax. There’s an emphasis on collecting them all, with some fragrances rarer than others, to add a sense of streetwear exclusivity. The scents will have a single note, so they can be mixed and matched - having a variety of fragrances is important to Gen Z. Initially, the fragrances will only be available through Ader arcade machine installations which will be installed in streetwear stores; the consumer will have to play and win their fragrance.
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WGSN has outlined the following colours as key for spring/ summer 2020, as part of their Code Create forecast (Craggs, 2018), which explores the themes around technological developments.
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Bright, clear blues are becoming popular due to their universal appeal. The colour feels confident, youthful, carefree and bold.
Yellow is synonymous with happiness. The bold primary shade evokes a childlike joy and playfulness. Additionally, over the past few years, yellow has become closely associated with Generation Z; their answer to the infamous millennial pink.
Ader’s signature electric blue adds a punch to the yellow and lighter blue, and represents creativity, trust and integrity.
bold & experimental
u n
unexpected pop of colour
playful foil packaging
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use of neon
authentically nostalgic
bright, youthful colour palette
korean-style text and graphics
tech inspired motif
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I chose the name ‘Joy’ as it not only connotes video gaming through the link to joystick, but also summarizes the youthful, playful identity of the brand. The logo is bold, simple and playful.
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There are fifteen different perfumes in the range, each having a single fragrance note. The bottles are graphic shapes, which fits the brand. The small size of the bottle means they are suited to on-thego use; therefore, people are likely to see others using them. This is a powerful method of marketing, as Gen Z are often take inspiration from what their peers do. The perfumes come in opaque foil bags so it’s a surprise which one you receive.
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The bold colour of the arcade machine creates a striking visual contrast with the minimal, monochrome interior of a typical streetwear store. The print design uses robotic symbols; the motif of the robot represents both the past and the future, as it’s associated with both a childhood toy and futuristic technology. Consumers insert their money into the machine, then play the game. Everyone wins, but which fragrance you receive is random.
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The fragrance will be promoted through a short, humorous, abstract video. The video is a parody, in the style of a 2000s children’s toy advert. It uses conventions of the genre such as upbeat music, bright graphics, and an overly enthusiastic tone of voice.
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The campaign video will be shown on Ader’s website. Once the buzz around the arcade machines has decreased, the perfumes will be released online. They will cost slightly more, but the consumer can choose which one they want, allowing avid fans to complete their collection. Fig. 85
Ader currently use three instagram accounts. The fragrance will be promoted on each of them. It will be initially teased through close-up abstract pictures on their main account, @ ader_error. More formal campaign imagery will be later released on @ adererror_official.
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The photographic content on @ader_styling will remain the same, however it will be indicated in the caption which fragrance the models are wearing, alongside which garments.
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