Marin Magazine August 2014

Yes, it’s possible.

You believe it’s possible to change things in the world. We do too. Together, nothing can stop us.

Marin Community Foundation marincf.org / 415.464.2500

In Marin 23 Currents Free finess, new bike park, Marin Shakespeare and more. 28 Style Show your love of California. 30 Q&A Mill Valley’s female surf champ. 32 Made by Marin Enhance your iPhone’s camera. 34 On the Job Meet your local ferryboat captain. 36 Conversation Catching up with Esalen’s cofounder.

Destinations

Go Rafting the American River.

Travel Buzz Ideas for great getaways.

Out

& About

Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond.

Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area.

Flavor Gator’s blackened cat fi sh.

On the Scene Snapshots from special events in Marin and San Francisco.

ART BY DARIJA JELINCIC (TOP LEFT); TIM PORTER (TOP RIGHT); JOSEPH SCHELL (BOTTOM)

Everybody loves skulls.

Skulls, a revealing new exhibit. Now open. From a tiny shrew to a mighty hippopotamus, there’s a lot to love.

Get tickets at calacademy.org

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IT’S OUR FAVORITE time of year. The time when we eat, drink and shop our way around Marin looking for what makes this county unique. And after doing all that hard work, we wrap it up for you with more than 100 choices presented in 21 pages as part of the 2014 Editors’ Choice feature. This year we arranged the choices by town so you can see what is close to you or plan to explore another part of the county. From burgers and beer to live music and alfresco dining, we found some great things you’ve just got to try.

Next up in features we keep it all in the family. Writer Laura Hilgers looks at four families who have worked together for generations. She uncovers the challenges and the benefits of working with your relatives and fi nds out what it means when you trade the boardroom for the Thanksgiving table.

Up front we include a roundup of places to get a free workout, an update on the Stafford Lake Bike Park, a look at some great apps for personal organizing, details on a very generous gift received by the Marin Shakespeare Company and more. We also introduce you to female surfing champion Bianca Valenti, a ferryboat captain and the cofounder of Big Sur’s Esalen.

In Destinations, we invite you to strap on a flotation device and join Ben Davidson for chills and spills on the American River. We’ve also got some great getaway ideas in Travel Buzz, and in Journey we race through the streets of Kolkata with Joseph and Anna Schell as they discover the lesser-traveled sections of the city via motorbike tour.

With summer drawing to a close and Indian summer on the horizon, there is still plenty of time to take advantage of the nice weather and explore all things Marin. If you aren’t sure where to start, our Editors’ Choice features plenty of ideas.

RIDE THE WAVES

In these outtakes for the Bianca Valenti shoot at Tim Porter’s photo studio, you can see the surfing star posing with fans and holding the Big Wave World Tour trophy. She was the first female to win it. You can read more about her in this month’s Q&A.

We eat, drink and shop our way around Marin looking for what makes this county unique.

Marin Magazine Staff Editors

Above, from left: Mimi Towle, Nikki Wood, Dan Jewett

Your Letters

Eds.: Jim Wood’s July editorial, “Stay CALM,” tackled the controversial topic of high-density housing in Marin and looked at the groups both for and against. The column obviously hit a nerve — we received many letters, phone calls and social media posts on both sides of the issue. We feel this topic is very important, so in place of Jim’s column this month we are running letters reflecting points of view both in agreement and in disagreement.

DISAGREE AGREE

I gave Jim permission to use the quote (“Stay CALM,” July 2014) from me as a realtor. And it is true that most new residents want walkable, more bike-friendly communities. It does not mean, however, that I believe we need or want more high-density development, and the way the column is written makes it sound like I support that. I don’t. There are ample opportunities for improvements now that are already approved that would have tremendous impacts on bike and pedestrian access. We need to get this critical infrastructure funded, environmentally cleared and built. Corte Madera left ABAG (Association of Bay Area Governments) — the first and only city to do so — several years ago, while I was mayor. We did so to protest the unfair housing allocations being handed to us by them. We continue to hope other cities will join us in our protest against ABAG and housing allocation numbers that are unfunded mandates from the state BOB RAVASIO, CORTE MADERA

I think that by continuing to give column space to Jim Wood and his views that Marin should build more WinCup-style high-density projects the magazine appears to be promoting this viewpoint. W hen a magazine that ostensibly represents Marin and all that is interesting and unique about the county diverges into publishing views that represent about .03 percent of the population a nd gives much ink to people like David Kunhardt and others w ith vested interests in urbanizing the county, something’s really off. Those who like a more urban experience are free to move — but to aim to change Marin under the auspices of “doing good” (as the CALM group is), when that “good” is nothing but self-promotion, makes people who love the area turn off JENNIFER LARSON, VIA EMAIL

Jim, your POV inaccurately misrepresents and distorts the opposition all over Marin that led to the Larkspur city council’s unanimous rejection of the proposals for housing at Larkspur Landing. The WinCup apartments in Corte Madera set off his widespread outcry. What most of us want now are plans that will deal with the housing, tra ffic and population increases and will sustain the quality of life we treasure in Marin. I suggest you do your homework on this issue, instead of providing arguments that miss the point. The various opposition voices are proposing viable alternatives. PETER MELLINI, LARKSPUR

Jim, the activist citizen groups you label as the herbal tea party are not against all growth and development. We are against massive high-density development — like WinCup in Corte Madera and the ones proposed for Larkspur Landing. We need a ffordable housing, and it needs to be scaled to be compatible with its surroundings. We have called ourselves “MAD” (Marin Against Density) but we are the true champions of livable Marin. MAD is calmly carrying on the decades-long tradition of protecting this county against overdevelopment. ANN PECKENPAUGH BECKER, KENTFIELD

Thank you for giving a voice to CALM (“Stay CALM,” July 2014). Green environmental planning is well articulated in environmental platforms from the Sierra Club to the Green Party, and it would seem a perfec t fit for liberal, environmental Marin . I ndeed, the landmark Marin County Plan that down-zoned almost all of West Marin explicitly stated that new development should be focused in the City Center Corridor, be mixed-use, and be served by transit . T his is not a top-down regional dictate but the very heart of what Marin has always been and was meant to be. WENDI KALLINS, FOREST KNOLLS

Jim, thank you so much for your article in the recent Marin Magazine. It is great to have a voice that commands a public audience come out against the knee-jerk anti-housing movement. I agree with everything you say in the article. It is very hard to have a reasonable conversation about housing in Marin without people panicking and spewing thinly veiled NIMBY rhetoric. Much of this rhetoric is anti–working class at best, racist at worst. ABBY YOUNG, VIA EMAIL

Hello, Jim Wood. I grew up in Marin and moved away to buy my fi rst house because I couldn’t a fford to live here. When the housing market was at its lowest I was able to move back with my two young children. I wanted them to be closer to nature and also want them to experience openness to di fferences and diversity. The beautiful open space and agricultural lands we all appreciate are safe and we need to include some opportunity for more compact development. Places where seniors can age in place, local workers can a fford to live and young people can rent their own apartments. We need a ffordable homes to help Marin remain a vibrant place to live and where ou r c hildren can learn to be citizens of the world — it shouldn’t be an enclave that lacks diversity. LEELEE

THOMAS, WOODACRE

My husband and I have lived in Fairfax for the last 26 years. I am in support of sustainable, a ffordable housing in Fairfax. I do not agree with the people who are so antigrowth in Marin. They say building more housing along transit corridors is a bad idea . It is essential if we hope to get Marinites out of their cars and into public transit. More housing puts a strain on our water supply? Marin does a great job of conservation and I feel certain there is a large percentage of the population who could do much better. I know many young people who cannot a fford to live here, even though they have grown up here. Many of our public safety people cannot live in the communities they serve. Doesn’t this strike anyone as crazy? Fairfax has an opportunity to do something wonderful. With careful planning, and fi nding the right developer, I believe we can have a ffordable housing. We need a diversity of people, incomes, etc., to have our towns thrive. LIZ FRONEBERGER, FAIRFAX

The setting was as sweet as the melon, and I thought to myself: remember this. Remember when Rome’s past was present. Realizing we didn’t need to toss coins in a fountain to feel lucky—but did anyway. Watching our bartender redefinethe term “with a twist.” And, getting reacquainted with “me” time. It’s funny; I don’t remember a single thing from our Celebrity cruise—I remember everything.

Alaska • Asia • Australia/New Zealand • Bermuda • Caribbean • Europe • Galapagos • South America Visit celebritycruises.com/sf, call 1-888-456-7887, or contact your travel agent. ©2014 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships’ registry: Malta and Ecuador.

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To learn more, call Private Ocean COO Susan Dickson at 415.526.2900 or visit us at www.privateocean.com

Oyster Wars

I’ve often enjoyed the magazine but the oyster article (“Shell Games,” July 2014) threw me. It’s so one-sided in support of Kevin Lunny I can hardly believe it. Nowhere is it mentioned that Lunny bought the lease knowing that it would expire in 2012. That’s what Salazar based his decision on as much as anything else. Sure, maybe the park service has made a few mistakes, but in my opinion they are fighting the good fight. Under other circumstances, it’d be great to have this oyster farm, but not in a wilderness area. MICHAEL MOONEY, MILL VALLEY

I recently read the article about the Drakes Bay Oyster Company and found I had to write to express my concerns. Nowhere in the article does the author even mention the fact that the federal government purchased the Johnson Oyster Farm in 1942 for $79,200 and gave the owner a 40-year lease to operate it. This is certainly the most important fact in the entire controversy. Looking at the entire chain of events it seems the most rational course of events was that Drakes Estero be allowed to revert to wilderness. Lunny seems to have been a careful steward of the marvel that is Drakes Estero and it will be unfortunate that people will lose their jobs. However, now that the U.S. Supreme Court has refused to hear the case, I would hope the process of removing the pilings and oyster pens from the estero can begin. TOM ROSKO, SAN ANSELMO

Corrections

In our Currents piece on Marin’s new Target store (“Going Green,” June 2014) we incorrectly spelled the name of the job captain for MBH Architects. The correct spelling is Elaine Leong.

In our July Currents (“Reading List,” July 2014) we incorrectly spelled the name of the author and publisher of The Insanity of Advertising: Memoir of a Mad Man. The author is Fred S. Goldberg; the publisher is Council Oak Books.

Personal, powerful wealth management

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Your comments may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine , One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or email us at letters@marinmagazine com . Please include the town where you live and a daytime phone number.

You own a business. You face some crucial financial decisions. We help you make them. You live your dream.

The Private Ocean Business Owner Services team (L to R): Greg Friedman, Bill Bockwoldt, Richard Stone, Susan Dickson, Frank Jones, Fred Dopfel, Chip Pyfer, Justin DeTray

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Marin on the Web

The new Marin Magazine website has been redesigned, simplified and given a new, cleaner look. But that’s not all. The site has also been converted to HTML5, which means it is easily scalable to work better and look great on tablets and smartphones as well as your desktop or laptop computer — the site determines which device you are on and customizes your viewing experience accordingly. marinmagazine.com

We’ve Got Blogs

Check out our Blogs page online to read daily posts on hot topics. Veronica Sooley covers all things fashion, Nicole Cheslock reveals the latest Tahoe travel news, Geoff James hits the waves with details on water sports trends, Lynda Balslev offers recipes and food news, Cheryl Popp looks at the arts and Calin Van Paris has tips for what to do on the weekend. marinmagazine.com/blogs/

Win GoPro Gear

It could be a video of you hiking the headlands, bicycling in Fairfax or surfing in Bolinas. Enter your best GoPro video in our My Marin GoPro Video contest for a chance to win great GoPro gear, including a HERO 3+ Black. Hurry — contest ends August 15. Go online to see official entry rules. marinmagazine.com/gopro/

DON’T MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE.

It’s a fact that during the 2008 catastrophic stock market downturn, most investors lost significant wealth – and faith – in financial markets. Many never fully recovered – financially or psychologically. Strangely, most investors are poised to make the very same mistake during the next big market decline. Unfortunately, this is a result of Wall Street’s “set and forget it” approach to investing. Here at Main Street Research we see things differently. Our Active Risk Management process mitigates the risk of catastrophic decline, as was the case in 2008, while at the same time allowing investors to participate in today’s rising market. If you are interested in avoiding past mistakes, we should talk. Call or visit www.ms-research.com. Minimum relationship $1 million.

CELEBRATING THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND CAUSES OF THIS UNIQUE COUNTY

BY CALIN VAN PARIS

MARIN IS FULL of fitness opportunities for beginners and longtime actives alike — there are mountains for climbing, an ocean for surfing and endless trails to cycle, run or stroll. For those overwhelmed by the number of options, we recommend working up a commitmentfree sweat with one of these free workouts.

WHEN Sundays through August, 9:30–10:30 a.m.

Power yoga in an unheated room.

QUICK TIP Classes are in-store, with no sign-up necessary. Bring your own mat.

Wednesdays, 5:45 p.m. Saturdays, 8 a.m. Sundays, 10–11 a.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m.

This fast-paced group ride is not suitable for beginners.

Riders opting for a shorter journey can take the 15-mile route instead of the 26-mile.

Leave directly from the store for a 13- to 17-mile run through the Marin Headlands.

For beginners, there are shorter routes close by; maps are provided.

Classes typically take place in-store, but move to an outdoor location during the summer months.

If you don’t own a mat, one will be provided.

Moderate 5- to 7-mile hikes over uneven (but beautiful) Mount Tamalpais.

Go online to see which trailhead will serve as the jump-off point for your selected Saturday.

WHO WHAT DETAILS

Athleta (Strawberry) athleta.com

Mike’s Bikes (Sausalito) mikesbikes.com

San Francisco Running Company (Mill Valley) sanfranciscorunning.com

Lululemon (Corte Madera) lululemon.com

Friends of Mt. Tam (Various locations) friendsofmttam.org

Yoga Col du Pantoll Group run Yoga Group hike

WE’RE PROUD OF THESE NATIONAL HONORS, AND HONORED TO TAKE CARE OF MARIN.

This award recognizes us as being in the top 5% of hospitals nationwide. Healthgrades also designated us as one of America’s Best 100 Hospitals for excellence in Cardiac Care and Coronary Intervention.

Chest Pain Center Accreditation, Society of Chest Pain Centers.

Joint Commission Gold Seal of Approval™ for the hospital, behavioral health services, and advanced certification as a Primary Stroke Center.

The American Heart Association and American Stroke Association recognize this hospital for achieving 85% or higher adherence to all Get With The Guidelines® Stroke Performance Achievement indicators for consecutive 12-month intervals and 75% or higher compliance with at least 5 of the Get With The Guidelines Stroke Quality Measures to improve quality of patient care and outcomes.

3-Year Accreditation with Commendation & Outstanding Achievement Award

For the second time in a row, the Marin Cancer Institute received the American College of Surgeons Outstanding Achievement Award, and a perfect score in all areas of measurement.

For more information about these awards and other recognition we have earned, please visit www.maringeneral.org/awards.

Digital Datebook

Summer is coming to a close, and “busy” could describe all of us. With so many places to go and things to do, sometimes you need more than a simple to-do list and less than an infinte collection of calendars. These four apps — favorites among the tech set — will streamline your schedule, culling appointments and other relevant digital information into one place, even if your head is in several. C.V.P.

TEMPO This smart calendar is like having a personal assistant in your pocket — a psychic personal assistant. The app compiles emails, contacts and locations to anticipate your needs, making sure you are never late to a meeting again. Or, if you are, that your coworkers will be notified. tempo.ai

SUNRISE Sunrise works with your Google Calendar, iCloud or Microsoft Exchange to combine all your scheduling into one easy-tonavigate app. Look over coworkers’ calendars, add Facebook events, tag locations and switch time zones seamlessly. calendar.sunrise.am

MAGNETO Ever gotten lost en route to an engagement? There’s an app for that. Magneto allows users to add an address to any appointment, subsequently calculating drive time, traffic and directions. The app also pulls calendar info and integrates to-do lists, taking the guesswork out of your fast-paced life. magneto.me

EVERNOTE The ultimate in organizing apps, Evernote syncs data across all your devices. Scan the business card of a new contact; organize meeting notes with tags; share said notes (and files) with colleagues; take snapshots of documents and much, much more. evernote.com

A SHAKESPEAREAN GIFT

The Marin Shakespeare Company is having quite a season. This past May, the 25-year-old company received an anonymous $1 million donation, a pleasant surprise that will ensure the Bard’s words continue to reverberate throughout the county. “It’s a transformative gift that will allow us to achieve a lot of things we’ve dreamed of for a long time, including making our mainstage productions even stronger and expanding our education programs to include more schools,” managing director Lesley Currier says. “It’s so gratifying to know that with this gift we will be able to secure the future of Shakespeare in Marin.” The annual outdoor season takes place through September 28 at Dominican University’s Forest Meadows Amphitheatre and this year features As You Like It, Romeo and Juliet and Oscar Wilde’s An Ideal Husband . Those interested in catching a performance of As You Like It can take advantage of the new Pay As You Like It program: Tickets to the show, which runs through August 10, are available for a donation of any amount. marinshakespeare.org C.V.P.

A Good Read

MARIN CARES

Books are a necessary escape for children, fostering both education and imagination. This strain of thought led Fairfax resident Amy Bon and her daughter Bella to found the Guatemala Book Project — a nonprofit that is creating small library collections in the rural schools of that country’s Recuerdo a Barrios region — after a trip to a Guatemalan village in 2010. “We recently shipped off bout 45 cartons of books and school supplies to the eight elementary schools we are currently working with,” says Bon. “Our students in the district have typically never had the opportunity to choose a book to read, and the teachers all struggle with a lack of classroom supplies.” Bon’s initial plan was to purchase used books and send them down, but there were not enough Spanish-language options to be found. Instead, money is raised through events and donations, and books are purchased through the South American division of Follett International, one of the largest scholastic book companies in the world. The project is having an impact on local students as well — eighthgrade-Spanish students from Mill Valley Middle School succeeded in raising $1,000 for the effort earlier this year. “We currently have two students who have chosen the Guatemala Book Project to benefit from their upcoming bat and bar mitzvahs,” adds Bon. “I think this is an effort that is very easy for kids to empathize with.” guatemalabookproject.org C.V.P.

BOOKS

Reading List

Knocking on Heaven’s Door: The Path to a Better Way of Death by Katy Butler, Scribner, 322 pages, $25. A vital book about an elderly man who, after suffering a stroke, is kept alive by a pacemaker despite pleas from kin to deactivate the device. The Mill Valley author is science writer for the New Yorker

Good Cop, Bad Daughter: Memoirs of an Unlikely Police Officer by Karen Lynch, Nothing But The Truth, 290 pages, $15.95. The Novato mom was raised in the 1960s-era Haight-Ashbury. After smoking a lot of pot, she became one of S.F.’s first policewomen.

Your Fathers, Where Are They? And the Prophets, Do They Live Forever? by Dave Eggers, McSweeney’s/Alfred A. Knopf, 212 pages, $25.95. A trippy (and short) novel that’s all dialogue. A disturbed but competent young man kidnaps people who’ve influenced him, chains them up and asks them questions that have long bothered him.

Code Halos: How the Digital Lives of People, Things, and Organizations Are Changing the Rules of Business by Malcolm Frank, Paul Roehrig, Ben Pring; John Wiley and Sons, 237 pages, $28. A thoughtful approach to how businesses can survive — even thrive — in the digital age. Presented by Cognizant’s Center for the Future of Work.

Girlfriends & Wine: A Fun, Sexy Approach to Enjoying Wines by Sheila Callan, 80 pages, Sheila Callan Books, $12.95. “An entertaining and informative wine guide for the novice wine lover ages 21 to the young at heart,” reads the promo. The author is from Corte Madera. JIM WOOD

West Coast bar necklace (18k gold dipped, handmade) by CA Limited, $35, at calimited.com.

Marin County pillow by Catstudio, $158, at Featherbed & Bath (Corte Madera), 415.924.2244 and catstudio.com.

San Francisco charm bangle and San Francisco Giants Cap Logo charm bangle, $28 each, at Alex and Ani (S.F.), 415.673.2841.

California Scent (coconut, eucalyptus, vanilla bean) by United Scents of America, $44, at shopunited scents.com.

California

LOVE

Some say the West Coast is the best coast, so show your pride in the Golden State. From a colorful Marin County pillow to an intricate San Francisco street grid necklace, Bay Area love is definitely in the air.

VERONICA SOOLEY

California Home T-shirt, $28, at thehomet.com.

3-D-printed Golden Gate Bridge necklace (24k gold plated) by HRVST/3D, $138, at Jewelry By the Bay (Sausalito), 415.332.0660.

Urban Gridded San Francisco necklace by Aminimal Studio, $50, at shop. aminimalstudio.com.

San Francisco zipped pouch by Maptote, $17, at Picnic (S.F.), 415.346.6556 and maptote.com.

VERONICA SOOLEY (WEST COAST NECKLACE, PERFUME, S.F. MAP NECKLACE, T-SHIRT)

Highly competitive and famously complex, the San Francisco real estate market can be both challenging and rewarding.

Zephyr turns savvy, informed Bay Area urbanites into successful homeowners, investors and sellers. ZephyrRealEstate.com

13 QUESTIONS FOR

Bianca Valenti

5 4

Pro Surfer MILL VALLEY

Last January, 28-year-old Bianca Valenti of Mill Valley surfed the biggest wave of her life. It was a 30-foot monster at Nelscott Reef, located near Lincoln City just off the Oregon coast. The rest is history. Wearing a / mm wetsuit and her characteristic smile, Valenti became the first female Big Wave World Tour champion. Ever. In fact, she is the only female professional surfer in the Bay Area. To become ranked as a professional, a competitor must win what’s called the “money round” in a competition and get paid. She won her first money round at age 15 at the Women’s World Long Board championships in Costa Rica and has been competing ever since. While there is prestige for a professional surfer, it rarely pays the bills, which explains Valenti’s other dream job — wine and beer buyer and occasional bartender for the newly opened family-owned Valenti & Co. in San Anselmo. MIMI

TOWLE

1

Where did you learn to surf? I taught myself. By the time I was 7 years old, I was standing up on my boogie board in the waves right offshore in Doheny in Dana Point. I loved it.

2

When did you start taking it seriously? When I was 13, I was surfing every day.

8

W hy should people try Valenti and Co.?

3

Any influences? Grant Twiggy Baker, the current Big Wave World Tour men’s champion. He has the right outlook on surfing and life. When he’s not working he’s helping his family’s orphanage in South Africa.

4

Yo ur top three places to surf? Pipeline, Ocean Beach and Rincon.

The food is outstanding. We’ve had such a great response and the atmosphere is cozy; it’s like you are sitting in Duilio’s living room. 9

5

Sh out-out to any local surf shops? Proof Lab, the best shop in the nation! Surf, skate, art, coffee — they have it all. Stop by.

What’s next? Mavericks is a stand-alone event that has always been run by Jeff Clark and was recently taken over by Cartel Management. This past June, when they were being interviewed on the radio, I called to ask about women being involved in the next competition, and they said yes, as long as we follow pre-tournament criteria. 10

6

Being in a restaurant family, What do you cook most often? My dad taught me the simplicity of letting ingredients speak for themselves. I make an anti-inflammation green smoothie every morning with chia seeds. When you are training all the time and working, you need to eat foods that help with inflammation and support recovery. 7

Favorite drink and where you like to drink it? Lately I have been enjoying the Sean Thackrey Pleiades XXIII red wine, which we serve by the glass at Valenti & Co. I also enjoy our San Anselmini, which is Lillet blanc on the rocks with a twist.

W hich is… Surf Mavericks [a point near Half Moon Bay, known for huge waves] whenever it is breaking. 11

Will you? I’m in. I just got my Patagonia inflatable vest. 12

Have you always wanted to be a pro surfer? From the moment I started surfing. If I could drop my night job and just surf I would, but I need sponsors to make that happen. 13

Any other hobbies or side projects? One exciting project I am working on is a documentary called It Ain’t Pretty with filmmaker Dayla Soul, about women who surf Ocean Beach in San Francisco. The film will culminate with the Mavericks event in 2015. m

MADE BY MARIN

Optrix

ADRENALINE ADDICTS AND sel fie lovers rejoice: now there’s another way to capture the ultimate shot with your iPhone. Optrix is designed to help you make the most out of the iPhone’s increasingly high-quality camera while simultaneously protecting your device. “I have been a motorcycle racer and action sports junkie most of my life, and Optrix was born out of frustration,” says John Willenborg, founder of the Novato-based company. “I was at Sonoma Raceway, and I couldn’t get my GoPro to work. I ended up duct-taping an iPod Nano to the motorcycle and racing; the footage was better than (with) my GoPro, and I have never looked back.” Optrix takes your iPhone footage to the next level by way of waterproof cases, monopods, a variety of mounts and lenses and much more. PHILOSOPHY “We’re all about obsession and passion,” says Willenborg. “Obsession about how we create better hardware and the passion of our customers. Seeing the thousands of photos and videos that get posted every week and the joy and adventure Optrix brings to users is what drives us.” The goal behind Optrix is for users to be able to bring their most-used camera (their iPhone) on any journey and use it in any condition. THE SCOOP Optrix lets customers shop by sport, with specially designed accessories available for virtually every outdoor activity — from kite-sur fi ng to motocross. The brand’s most popular product is the PhotoProX, which combines Optrix’s rugged waterproof housing with four professional-grade lenses (macro, fi sh-eye, telephoto and low profi le), providing a worry-free means of capturing a quality image. BEYOND MARIN Optrix was recently welcomed into the Body Glove family, which means you’ll likely be hearing a lot more about the company in coming months, particularly in the sur fi ng sector. The goods are currently available at specialty retailers worldwide, as well as online. WHAT THEY SAY “The coolest Optrix story has to be from David McGregor of Australia,” says Willenborg. “David capsized his boat, and his Optrix (with his iPhone inside) sank to the bottom of the ocean off he coast of Australia. The device washed up on a beach after 82 days on the ocea n floor. The phone was returned in perfect working condition and David still uses that same iPhone to this day.” optrix.com CALIN VAN PARIS

Meghann Bauer, pregnant with twins and in danger of losing them both, and perinatologist Dr. Larry Rand, each came to UCSF Medical Center for the same reason. They both wanted to be at a place known for excellence in innovation and patient care. Dr. Rand performed a complex surgery on Meghann’s twins in-utero, and she gave birth to two healthy, happy boys. Thirty years ago the first fetal surgery was performed at UCSF, and today doctors here continue to revolutionize the field. UCSF: pioneering care, one patient at a time. Visit PioneeringCare.com to read more.

FOR THE BAUER FAMILY

DR. LARRY RAND IS

Bay Captain

Bob Ketchum

,

LAST YEAR, 2.3 million people crossed San Francisco Bay on a Golden Gate Ferry. Many of them were being transported by Capt. Bob Ketchum, a 15-year veteran of the fleet. We caught up with him in the wheelhouse of the Del Norte, a $7.8 million, 400-passenger catamaran that makes the 13-mile voyage from Larkspur to San Francisco in 30 minutes. How did you get started? I was a tuna fi sherman in San Diego and we’d be gone for months at a time. It was a lot of fun, but I met the woman I was going to marry and I looked around and everybody I knew had about three or four exwives and they were pretty much alcoholics. I said, “This isn’t going work.” So I studied and got my license and started working on a cruise line to Catalina Island. And the marriage worked out? It’s been 33 years now, so something’s working right. We live in the city. I’m one of the few people who work here who lives in the city. Did you go to a maritime academy? No, I’m a fo’c’sle guy. I came up through the fo’c’sle. What’s a fo’c’sle? The forecastle. On old ships, it was the place on the bow that was sort of pointy and not very good for stowing cargo. That’s where they stuck the crew. How many round-trips do you make a day? Most captains do about five. Me, I man this boat for the 7:30 a.m. run and I change hats and do my operational planning — boat moves, crews, stuff ike that. And then I’m here again for the 5:20. What do you worry about as you drive? We are constantly vigilant about debris in the water. Debris will get sucked up into the jets. The worst thing would be trees or wood. If you run over a big enough log you could damage the hull. Do you have your own boat? Nope, I’m smart enough to know not to. What sorts of things do you notice among the passengers? When I used to work weekends, the 11:40 boat would be fi lled with tourists. As it passed San Quentin, the guys in their yellow jumpsuits out in the yard would wave at the tourists and the tourists would wave back and I’m sitting there going, “Do you know who these people are?” What is it about waving and boats? It’s always been funny to me the mentality that people have on boats. I don’t know what it is, but it is so socially acceptable on boats to wave at other people. I’m going to do a study about it when I retire. m

supervising captain, Golden Gate Ferry, goldengateferry.org

Whether he’s driving the boat or organizing the crew, nothing beats life on the water.

BY TIM PORTER

TIM PORTER

EXPERT ORTHOPAEDICS - WHERE SPORTS AND SCIENCE MEET

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Michael Murphy

The Mill Valley octogenarian cofounded the Esalen Institute, wrote Golf in the Kingdom and ran with the literati of the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. BY

JIM WOOD

SALINAS IS MICHAEL Murphy’s hometown. His grandfather, Dr. Henry Murphy, delivered author John Steinbeck. Murphy, in turn, has interacted with such notables as Aldous Huxley, Arnold Toynbee, Abraham Maslow, Bishop James Pike, Ansel Adams, Susan Sontag, Paul Tillich and Timothy Leary. These associations, Murphy says, resulted from his cofounding — at age 32 — the worldfamous Esalen Institute in Big Sur in 1962, which, over its 50-plus years of existence, has been described as a “personal growth think tank.” A nonprofit organization focused on personal growth, meditation, massage, ecology, yoga, psychology, spirituality and more — there was nothing quite like it at the time. Many refer to it as the modern birthplace of the human potential movement. On average, more than 15,000 people a year from all over the world attend Esalen classes and seminars.

In 1950, while a premed student at Stanford, Murphy wandered into a class discussing Eastern and Western philosophies and religions. The miscue changed his life. Soon he was meditating and, after earning a bachelor of arts in psychology and serving in the U.S. Army, he lived on an ashram in India for 18 months. Upon returning to America, he and the late Richard Price started Esalen on property the Murphy family owned in Big Sur. Murphy, now 83, and Dulce, his wife of

44 years, live in Mill Valley’s bucolic Cascade Canyon. Their son Mac also lives in Mill Valley.

In addition to cofounding the Esalen Institute, you are an author in your own right. Norman Mailer once said, “Every aspiring writer gets one free one.” Well, Golf in the Kingdom was my free one. As a young man, I was a pretty fair golfer and this book surprised everyone. It was the fi rst book I tried to write, let alone wrote. It was all in my head; it took only seven months to complete; it was never edited; and now, 43 years later, it has sold over a million copies and been published in 13 languages. Author John Updike called it “the best book written on the sport in the 20th century.” I’ve also written non fiction books relating to the work being done at Esalen. I guess you’d call The Future of the Body: Explorations Into the Further Evolution of Human Nature my opus. It was a 15-year project. Laurance Rockefeller, a great human being, supported much of the work that went into it. Published in 1992, it’s a nearly 800-page description of supernormal human functioning triggered by activities ranging from spiritual healing to sport to yogic and contemplative practice.

The evolution of humans is a very current topic — and much has changed since you wrote The Future of the Body. I imagine you’re referring to Silicon Valley’s Ray Kurzweil and his singularity theory, which maintains that by 2045, artificial intelligence will surpass human intelligence and humans and machines will merge. Let me say this: Life has been evolving for, what, 3.5 billion years, humankind for maybe 50,000, maybe 100,00 years. But evolution can be regressive, static or progressive. The future that I write about — and Esalen people are now exploring — is seen to be wide-open, undiscovered country. And indeed, there are various scenarios of this future, among them Kurzweil’s singularity concept. However, many, including me, consider that view to be extreme. Personally, I think it’s a dead end. Artificial intelligence can give us certain things, amazing things. But I’m all in on the other side, the evolution of humankind within its core essence — which is body, mind, heart and soul. That is a different way forward than this whole machine fantasy.

How does it differ? Obviously, some of these machines are helpful. But there’s an argument to be made that we now have too much communication. For example, the email I use is very helpful, but at times you can’t get through dinner without someone texting their friends several times. This immense extroversion and obsessiveness, caused by this constant communicating, is something we have to watch and many people are getting concerned about it. Nevertheless, while some new machines are helpful, this idea that we’re someday going to become machines — the current movie Transcendence explores this concept — I think is a dead end.

But who decides which machines are helpful, and which are detrimental? We’re learning as we go; I’m not going to give rules. But here in Marin, I think it will be family by family. Yes, things have changed, and these machines are incredible distractions, but there are still strong young families — I see them all around me. And they will, eventually, decide how much time their children can spend looking at a machine, a screen, be it television, a video game or a smartphone. In Marin, I see signs of a counter movement: Buddhism is all around us. There’s Spirit Rock, and yoga, and the Tibetan groups advancing the mind-body connection. They just operate under the radar; they don’t get the media’s attention. Marin has both high tech and high touch. I know right now technology has a full head of steam

worldwide, but humans have always explored extremes. And humans are adaptable; many young people are learning how to deal with humankind’s ever-increasing technology. After all, we’ve been reading, seeing and hearing dystopian themes for decades — Blade Runner is an example. And yes, it is something to fear; but I think that at some point this obsession with technology will seem ridiculous. I really think that. I believe Kurzweil’s theory about man and machines merging is hilarious. I can’t take it seriously.

Let’s switch from the future to the past. In the 1980s, during the Cold War, Esalen organized a Soviet-American exchange program that didn’t get the coverage it possibly deserved. Can you talk about that now? Here’s what happened: Esalen and the human potential idea led me to the USSR in 1971 to explore work being done there in what Russians were calling “hidden human reserves.” But our project really took off n 1980 when we decided to mount a major project to promote Soviet-American friendship. That we

PAUL HERBERT

In 1950, while a premed student at Stanford, Murphy wandered into a class discussing Eastern and Western philosophies and religions. The miscue changed his life.

Esalen Folk Festivals attracted musicians like Joan Baez, Judy Collins, Mimi Fariña, Joni Mitchell and Mama Cass.

Robert H. Byers, MD

Elizabeth A. Dailey, MD

Lisa M. Elvin, NP

Jon R. Goff, MD

David H. Goltz, MD

Abbey Kennedy, MD

John C. Keohane, MD

John H. Kim, PA-C

Edward S. Moon, MD

Michael J. Oechsel, MD

Ernest H. Sponzilli, MD

Charles A. Stuart, MD

Brian W. Su, MD

Dr. Dailey will begin seeing adult arthritis consultations and joint replacement candidates at Mt. Tam Orthopedics in August, 2014.

had friends in high places helped. President Jimmy Carter’s secretary became our friend; we were feeding the president items he’d put in his speeches; and we got to be friends with Claiborne Pell, who was chairman of the Senate’s Foreign Relations Committee, and who helped us quite a bit. Since 1980, we’ve sponsored dozens of Soviet-American (and now Russian-American) exchanges, encompassing a wide range of fields including medicine, sport, psychology, literature and the arts. My wife, Dulce, has been central to this from the start; we’ve had two brilliant and adventurous directors, Jim Hickman and Jim Garrison (who now lives in Mill Valley); and we’ve worked closely along the way with many wonderful folks, including the astronaut Rusty Schweickart, who helped establish the Association of Space Explorers; the writers Susan Sontag and Norman Mailer, who helped bring the Soviet Writers’ Union into the International PEN club, which works against government censorship of writers; and Joe Montville, the career Foreign Service officer who coined the term “Track Two Diplomacy” to describe and help support the kind of work we’ve done with our Russian colleagues.

No doubt this relationship with the Soviet Union transpired over several years. How did it culminate? It’s still going, if you can believe it. But there was a pivotal event that some might call a culmination. In 1989, some young people around Boris Yeltsin asked us to sponsor his first trip to America, and when he got here he flipped. America wasn’t the place his Soviet training had prepared him for. He was inspired again and again by the things he saw. And, while visiting a supermarket in Houston, this recognition came to a head. The Soviet Union didn’t have places like this. Seventy years of

Elizabeth A. Dailey, M.D.

Mt. Tam Orthopedics proudly welcomes our total joint replacement specialist.

Simon and Garfunkel performed at Esalen.

communism had not brought it close to what he’d experienced in the states. Back in Moscow, he appeared before the Communist Party’s Central Committee, and Gorbachev introduced him by saying, “We understand you have fallen in love with America,” to which Yeltsin replied, “Comrades, it’s not about America, it is about communism. So I have this to say to you today: I renounce the Communist Party. I quit!” Two years later, when the putsch happened and Yeltsin stood on the tank, the Soviet army stood down. Many believe that without his coming to America, this wouldn’t have happened. It goes to show that little guys like us can make a difference.

In addition to the considerable serious work done at Esalen, during the institute’s early years didn’t some rather raucous music festivals take place? Yes, indeed. During the 1960s, Joan Baez was living out there and Esalen hosted five of her famous Folk Festivals. In addition to drawing thousands of local people to Esalen, these festivals, over the years, attracted people like George Harrison and Ringo Starr, Ravi Shankar, Ali Akbar Khan, Joni Mitchell, Judy Collins, Lily Tomlin, Mama Cass, Pete Seeger, Arlo Guthrie, Paul Simon, Art Garfunkel, David Crosby, the Chambers Brothers and others. Now, not all of them, like George Harrison and Ringo, performed, but they certainly joined in the fun. And, believe me, it was fun. Once these festivals were over, it took us nearly two months to clean up the place. m

At Sutter Health’s Novato Community Hospital, we’ve added prominent bay area orthopedic physicians to our growing program. Along with anesthesiologists who specialize in your personal pain management, you’ll receive a whole team of physical therapists, orthopedic nurses and case managers – partnering with you through your hospital stay and home recovery. Expert care every step of the way, it’s just another way we plus you.

Bone and joint care, now more experts in Marin.

George Harrison and Ravi Shankar at Esalen.

Marin Magazine’s

EDITORS’ CHOICE 2014

1MUIR BEACH Stinson is bigger. Limantour is wilder. Drakes is more dramatic. But Muir is the beach we are honoring this year. Just a quick jaunt over the hill from Tam Junction (or via the local route through Four Corners), Muir Beach is at once rugged and welcoming, 1,000 feet of sand perfect for picnicking wedged between rocky outcrops that shelter those who prefer privacy (or eschew bathing suits). Plus, there’s parking. The $4 million makeover of Muir that closed the beach last summer is done. There are new bathrooms, a wooden walkway through the dunes and, most important, sustaining improvements to the adjoining wetlands. parksconservancy.org

Now, read on, as we honor more than 100 great things to do, taste and experience in Marin. This year, we’ve organized our picks around the cities and areas where you live, eat, shop, play or just hang out, making for a virtual road map of the best the county has to offer.

PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

Join the Club

We love the Mill Valley version of a club. We don’t play to impress; families gather, kids swim, martinis are served, but here we ditch the dress codes and white tablecloths. Basically, the difference between our clubs and the blueblood, white-gloved version back east is that while we might share the urge to say “bottoms up,” pinkies and collars are most definitely down.

PLAY

Bar Bites

You want to go out, but not commit to an entire meal. Whether you want to dive into a burger while imbibing a spicy red or gobble up a plate of Oysters Bingo with a Manhattan while you watch the game, here’s a starter list for our favorite bar dining options in town.

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MILL VALLEY GOLF CLUB This nine-hole, par-33 course was created in 1919 from land donated by Ida and Hugh Boyle. Set in a residential area, the course is recognized by the Northern California Golf Association as a “two for 20” course (golf in two hours and under 20 bucks). While the course is public, being part of the club has its benefits. mvgolf.com

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MILL VALLEY TENNIS CLUB AND SCOTT

VALLEY SWIMMING AND TENNIS

CLUB Both clubs are popular destinations for competitive tennis players. They also both feature a lively pool scene on sunny Sundays and are great venues for a Friday night barbecue. mvtennisclub.com, svstc.com 4

THE CLUB AT HARBOR POINT This Strawberry gem was founded in the late ’60s by brothers Ray and Marty Kalisky. The club has hosted major tennis tournaments for decades and recently upgraded its fitness center. harbor-point.com

Mill Valley 5

BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com

EL PASEO 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com 7

MILL VALLEY BEERWORKS 173 Throckmorton Ave, 415.869.8848, millvalleybeerworks.com

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MOLINA RESTAURANT 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, molinarestaurant.com 9

PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR (pictured) 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com 10

PIAZZA D’ANGELO 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com

WHERE THE STARS SHINE Charlie Chaplin, Peter Fonda, Robin Williams, Jared Leto, Ang Lee — all have performed or appeared in downtown Mill Valley venues. And for attracting the megawatt celebrities, we tip our hat to 142 Throckmorton Theatre, CineArts Sequoia (pictured) and Sweetwater Music Hall, which originally opened in 1914, 1929 and 1972, respectively. These always-popular venues have all entertained us while keeping us guessing which big name we might see next — particularly during the Mill Valley Film Festival.

FROM BAY TO PLAY A ride so beautiful, the Society of American Travel Writers ranked it second best in the world — and it’s easy to see why. Departing San Francisco via the Golden Gate Ferry or the Blue and Gold Fleet, ferry travelers get stunning views of Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge while the city shrinks on the horizon and the hillside homes of Sausalito loom ever larger. And once you arrive you can choose from Philz Coffee, delicious food and cocktails at Copita Tequileria y Comida or one of the many other waterfront establishments and, fi nally, shopping galore on Bridgeway or Caledonia Street. goldengateferry.org, blueandgoldfleet.com

New Shops in Town

Although they offer vastly different services, these three new Sausalito shops all have one thing in common: a focus on creating a totally unique customer experience. So if you need lunch, a new outfit or new shoes, or all three, Sausalito is the place to visit.

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DRIVER’S MARKET The store, founded by former Real Food Company manager Adam Driver with a little help from his brother and friends, is a favorite for locals seeking fresh food that is free of chemicals, preservatives, GMOs and added hormones. driversmarket.com

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GR.DANO It’s lucky for us that Jill Giordano and Brian Scheyer liked each other’s sense of style — the pair decided to work together to make their own line of modern women’s clothes. They design, sketch and sew in San Francisco but their only brick-and-mortar boutique is right on Caledonia Street. grdano.com

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SHOE STORIES (pictured) You can’t go to an event in Marin without running into boutique owner Wayne Kaleck, so it makes sense that he would know a thing or two about elegant shoes. Kaleck offers personalized car service, champagne and all the help you will ever need to find perfect footwear from names like Valentino, Rossi and Weitzman.

Foodie Fun

Yeah, Sausalito’s got the tourists, but it also has some of the more fun dining spots in Marin. You want a rock shrimp po’boy with some bocce ball? Check. You want oysters on the half shell in a historic building? Check. You want the best Frenchified fast food burger imaginable? That’s also a check.

Sausalito

Room With a View

BAR BOCCE 1250 Bridgeway, 415.331.0555, barbocce.com 17

BARREL HOUSE TAVERN 660 Bridgeway, 415.729.9593, barrelhousetavern.com 18

FAST FOOD FRANÇAIS (F3) (pictured) 39 Caledonia St, 415.887.9047, eatf3.com

PLAY

One of the things that makes Sausalito a world-class city is the views. You’ve got the bay, Alcatraz, Angel Island, the Golden Gate Bridge and views back at Marin itself — it’s hard to beat. The best way to experience all of that on your own time, at your leisure, is to stay in one of these popular and unique hotels.

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CASA MADRONA HOTEL AND SPA The historic property offers views of the bay and Sausalito itself with great dining downstairs at Poggio Trattoria. A recent renovation added even more luxury to the rooms, cottages, 11-room mansion and extraordinary Alexandrite Suite. casamadrona.com

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CAVALLO POINT (pictured) Set at the foot of the Golden Gate Bridge at historic Fort Baker, Cavallo Point offers bridge views, beautiful grounds to wander, a spa and first-rate dining at Justin Everett’s Murray Cicrle. Your biggest decision is whether to stay in a cozy historic room or go modern in a well-appointed contemporary one. cavallopoint.com 21

INN ABOVE TIDE Here you’l l fi nd 31 rooms with suites right over the water and facing the bay. After a day of shopping in Sausalito, set up camp on your own private deck and watch the sun set. innabovetide.com

Find It on Main

Have a party to go to or a vacation to shop for? Or need a unique girlfriend gift that will raise your status to best-BFF? Main Street Tiburon is now a shopping destination with expanding longtime stores like Koze augmented by newcomers like Madison or Fetish. The perfect place for that perfect dress, bauble or bag. 22

CITRUS 13 Main St, 415.435.1321, shopcitrus.com 23

FETISH (pictured) 34 Main St, 415.937.5934, fetishthestore.com 24

KOZE 16 Main St, 415.435.1916, getkoze.com 25

MADISON 17 Main St, 415.889.5727, facebook.com/ madisontiburon 26

PAPARAZZI 31 Main St, 415.435.2622, paparazzisf.com

Tiburon

BLOCK PARTY Back by popular demand for the eighth summer in a row, Tiburon’s now-monthly toss-it-back-and-relax Friday Nights on Main party is officially a community favorite. Even though the event can draw up to 1,000 menu perusers, chard cruisers and gangs of lil’ bruisers, restaurants like Waypoint Pizza will always have enough pizza slices and beer to go around. Main Street USA is the theme for this month — an homage to Disney, with characters walking the street and dancing to the Kyle Martin Band. September 19 brings dance party band the Fundamentals, followed by an Oktoberfest event on September 26 to finish the season. townoftiburon.org

About the View

If a picture paints a thousands words, add a view of San Francisco’s skyline and make it a novel. Tiburon’s waterfront restaurants not only serve up world-class views but award-winning cuisine as well. Parking can be tricky, so bring cash to use the lot behind Main Street or better yet, try Uber.

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LUNA BLU RESTAURANT (pictured) It’s the new kid on the block, but we hope Luna Blu is here to stay. With dishes like the cocktail di gamberi — bay shrimp with chopped romaine lettuce in a brandy cocktail sauce — we think it will. facebook.com/lunablurestaurant

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SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE We’ve said it before: the deck at Sam’s could be considered the gateway to Marin. Sitting in the sun and drinking a bloody mary is all it takes to convince some city dwellers to make the move to Marin. samscafe.com

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SERVINO RISTORANTE Looking for a “regular table” at a local restaurant? Check out this familyrun hot spot on Main Street, known for friendly service and farm-to-table Italian cuisine. servino.com 31

THE CAPRICE Few places say special occasion like The Caprice, located right on the water, facing the S.F. skyline and the Golden Gate Bridge. This spot is also a 2014 OpenTable Diner’s Choice winner. thecaprice.com

HEAD TO THE COUNTRY A sister of Brentwood Country Mart in L.A., Larkspur’s Marin Country Mart is a one-stop shop for fashion, fitness, food and more. Chic boutiques like Intermix and Calypso St. Bart add a heavy dose of style to any wardrobe; YogaWorks and SoulCycle offer opportunities to tone up; Diesel, A Bookstore and interior shop Hudson Grace help to make your house a home; and if restaurants like Farmshop, El Huarache Loco and Marin Brewing Co. aren’t enough to sate your appetite, Sunday’s Off he Grid food truck events are sure to do the job. marin countrymart.com

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Kids’ Culture

Help your children strengthen their bodies and minds while broadening horizons at one of these three unique establishments designed to bring out the best in kids. 33

MASTERWORKS KIDS ART The artistically gifted should head straight to artist Lisa Jones’ Corte Madera studio for young ones of virtually all ages. Masterworks features year-round classes and camps focusing on subjects like fashion illustration and impressionism, helping to encourage young artists while fine-tuning skills. masterworkskidsart.com 34

TUTU SCHOOL (pictured) Tucked into Marin Country Mart, the Tutu School is former professional ballet dancer Genevieve Custer Week’s outlet for young ones looking to don fluffy skirts and get moving to classical works. The classes, camp and parties are geared toward promoting imagination and fun. tutuschool.com 35

YANG’S MARTIAL ARTS ACADEMY Grand master Soon Tae Yang instructs students in traditional Korean royal court martial arts (Kung Jung Mu Sul in Korean) at Yang’s Martial Arts Academy in Larkspur. This brand of fighting is based largely on self-defense, and Yang is a renowned expert. kungjungmusul.com

Larkspur•Corte Madera

Dine Out

Whether you’re heading to happy hour, Saturday date night or an impromptu pizza party, Larkspur is loaded with opportunities to dine outdoors. When the sun comes out, visit one of these local eateries to enjoy delicious food, good company and some rays in an ideal alfresco environment.

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FARMSHOP 2233 Larkspur Landing Cir (Larkspur), 415.755.6700, farmshopca.com 37

LEFT BANK (pictured) 507 Magnolia Ave (Larkspur), 415.927.3331, leftbank.com 38

PIZZERIA PICCO 316 Magnolia Ave (Larkspur), 415.945.8900, pizzeriapicco.com 39

RUSTIC BAKERY 1139 Magnolia Ave (Larkspur), 415.925.1556, rusticbakery.com 40

YANKEE PIER 286 Magnolia Ave (Larkspur), 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com

CLASSIC JOINT

Some things never change, and that’s precisely what we love about Marin Joe’s. The classic Corte Madera restaurant features an old-timey piano bar, run by tenders who have been serving dirty martinis and crackers in the dimly lit room for decades; swing by for live music six nights a week. Back in the dining room, order a steak or cheeseburger for the ultimate experience, or opt for one of the seemingly endless pasta varieties. Be sure to indulge in a Caesar salad along with your entrée — the dressing is whipped up tableside. marinjoesrestaurant.com

EAT

Ross•Greenbrae•Kentfiel

European Flavors

Temper your craving for a European vacation with a quick drive from Kent field to Ross, where you’ll fi nd culinary treats from countries like Italy and France for far less than the cost of a plane ticket.

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AMBROSIA (pictured) Ambrosia offers traditional Italian fare in the kind of family-friendly restaurant the county is known for. Owner Mark Leslie brings his passion for pizza, pasta and premium wines by the glass to the restaurant’s new Kentfield location. facebook.com/ambrosiapizza

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MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS Named for a popular farmers’ market in the south of France, Marché aux Fleurs has a menu built from local, seasonal offerings. The French eatery, located in Ross, complements its menu with wines from small family-run vineyards. marcheauxfleursrestaurant.com

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TRATTORIA FRESCO The ideal spot for an Italian-style date night. The Ross trattoria’s house-made pastas, traditional Italian salads, grilled meat dishes and pastries are made with local organic ingredients; owner/ chef Marco Franceschini will likely stop by your table to check in. 415.464.0915

For high school students looking to get ahead, college kids hoping to transfer to a four-year university and adults continuing their education, College of Marin’s Kent field campus provides a wealth of academia — and pretty spectacular views of Mount Tamalpais. The newly remodeled school attracts professors looking to live and teach in the county, and the result is a pool of high-caliber classes in a wide variety of subjects that will prepare you for whatever future you choose. The college is also home to soccer, volleyball, basketball, swimming, track and field, baseball and softball teams. marin.edu

KEEP LEARNING

A Day for Play

With all the ways to play in and around the bay, the options can be overwhelming. Here are three opportunities for rowing, cycling and biking — all you have to do is step out the front door. 46

TheDayBig

In need of all things borrowed and blue? Marin is full of resources for the wedding of your dreams, from the proposal to the reception. Check out these local establishments for the ultimate engagement ring, tasty and tasteful cake options and an ideal spot to say “I do.”

SHOP

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JOHANN PAUL 272 Bon Air Center (Greenbrae), 415.461.1866, johannpauljeweler.com

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MARIN ART AND GARDEN CENTER

GAZEBO 30 Sir Francis Drake (Ross), 415.455.5260, magc.org

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SUSIECAKES 310 Bon Air Center (Greenbrae), 415.461.2253, susiecakes.com

CORTE MADERA CREEK PATH Don’t let the name fool you — this all-purpose path will connect you with numerous parks, paths and schools throughout Greenbrae, Ross and Kentfield. Our favorite stop is Hal Brown Park, across from Marin General Hospital.

MARIN ROWING ASSOCIATION (pictured) Greenbrae’s nonprofit Marin Rowing Association gives veteran and newbie rowers of all ages a space to hone their skills. Take up sculling (oar in each hand) or sweep rowing (one oar, both hands) — even join one of the competitive teams. marinrowing.org 48

PHOENIX LAKE This spot in Ross is a mecca for runners, hikers and wanderers. The moderate loop provides ideal terrain for a leisurely stroll through the woods, with beautiful views of the lake at every turn. Be sure to get there early on weekends, as parking is limited.

San Rafael

International Tastes

Downtown San Rafael is a United Nations of food. Yummy mu shu pork at Chrysanthemum, juicy Cubanos at Sol Food, spicy veggie curry at My Thai, picante dried chilies at Azteca No. 2, tajine of lamb at Odalisque. When eat local meets globalization, this is what you get.

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AZTECA MARKET NO. 2 (pictured) 802 Fourth St, 415.457.2518

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CHRYSANTHEMUM 2214 Fourth St, 415.456.6926, chrysanthemumfood.com

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MY THAI 1230 Fourth St, 415.456.4455, mythai.com

ODALISQUE CAFE 1335 Fourth St, 415.460.1335, odalisquecafe.com

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PLAY

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SOL FOOD 811 Fourth St, 415.451.4765, solfoodrestaurant.com

Go Live

Marin is known for live music. There is no doubt among musicians and those who love listening to them that San Rafael is at the heart of the local scene. These four venues prove that when it’s time to go out, San Rafael is the place to go.

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FENIX A classy supper club with a sassy quarter-million-dollar sound system, Fenix can sate with its California-Southern menu, satisfy with its in-house blues band, and serve you right from Fourth Street with its new pocket-size to-go counter. fenixlive.com

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GEORGE’S NIGHTCLUB A true nightclub, with bars front and back, plenty of room to dance and a quick-food menu to refresh you between sets. George’s playlist runs from Tom Petty cover bands to regular R&B nights to a weekly salsa party. georgesnightclub.com 59

STUDIO 55 MARIN This venue calls itself a listening room, and rightly so. No bar, no dinner, just a fantastic sound system and great sight lines that make this intimate space (150 people) ideal for appreciating the traditional music played there. studio55marin.com

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TERRAPIN CROSSROADS (pictured) Music hall, bar, restaurant and living shrine to the Grateful Dead, bassist Phil Lesh’s waterfront venue (on a canal) is the perfect place to eat, drink and chill even for those who might sacrilegiously ask, Jerry who? terrapincrossroads.net

SHOP URBAN SUBURBAN A stroll through this evening street market is a distinctly Marin version of a vibrant urban experience. Operating Thursdays from 6 to 9 p.m., April through September, the Downtown San Rafael Farmers’ Market occupies Fourth Street between Lincoln and B streets. Filled with families of all types, the market is part roadside farm stand, part international bazaar, part music fair and part food festival. Visitors can purchase organic strawberries, indulge in a Thai massage, listen to Afro-funk, and partake in street food — garnachas from Mexico, pupusas from El Salvador and/or barbecue from the U.S. of A. sanrafaelmarket.org

VISIT WITH

YODA Think not, do. Thanks, Yoda; your advice to Luke Skywalker is precisely our suggestion, too. Think not about the travails of Star Wars creator (and Marin resident) George Lucas over his plans to build a museum in San Francisco. Instead, do take time to visit Imagination Park (535 San Anselmo Avenue, next to City Hall), where you can marvel at (and take sel fies with) the life-size bronze statues of Yoda and Indiana Jones. Lucas bought the land, razed an existing building and donated it all to the city, creating a whimsical downtown green space. sananselmopark.org

San Anselmo

Park ’n’ Shop

EAT

Rise and Shine

Breakfast may or may not be the most important meal of the day, but it’s certainly the most comforting. Eggs, pancakes, bagels, o.j., coffee (half-decaf low-fat cap for us, please) — downtown San Anselmo is the place to dine before noon.

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BARTON’S BAGELS New York it ain’t, but good it is. Barton’s aficionados praise its classic bagels (plain, egg), as well as its nouveau types (chocolate, jalapeño), but our favorite is sesame loaded with lox, cream cheese, red onion and capers. 415.458.8818

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BUBBA’S FINE DINER Early risers can not only grab the luscious red-leather window booth but also order the Early Bird Special (eggs, pancakes, bacon, $5.95). Counter stools (also red) provide a view of the grill. Small place, big menu. bubbasfinediner.com

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HILDA’S COFFEE SHOP (pictured) An old-school local hangout that’s been family-owned for decades. Take a seat at the long counter, pick up one of the leftover morning papers, eyeball the regulars and, above all, order the German-style pancakes. 415.457.9266

M.H. BREAD AND BUTTER The new kid on San Anselmo’s breakfast block(s), S.F.’s former Tartine Bakery baker Nathan Yanko opened this cafe/bakery last year. For breakfast think scones, chilaquiles or poached eggs with avocado toast. mhbreadandbutter.com

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SHOP

Like the city for which it is named, San Anselmo Avenue (the main downtown drag) is an eclectic mix of old and new. Here you can shop for vintage books, midcentury furnishings, colorful gifts, bright totes of all types or summery and seductive swimwear.

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BEACH BELLA 570 San Anselmo Ave, 415.258.9844

FIG GARDEN (pictured) 421 San Anselmo Ave, 415.457.9443

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HELDFOND BOOK GALLERY 310 San Anselmo Ave, 415.456.8194, heldfond.com 70

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MODERN I SHOP 635 San Anselmo Ave, 415.456.3960, eamescollector.com

TOSS DESIGNS 343 San Anselmo Ave, 415.455.8677, tossdesigns.com

All About Bikes

Most people see Mount Tamalpais as the birthplace of mountain biking and Fairfax as a world-renowned destination for cyclists of all kinds. Which puts this town in the heart of one of the most active bicycling regions in the United States — a Museum of Bicycling is even coming to town. Here are a few spots to check out.

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GESTALT HAUS Beaucoup bike parking, beer, brats, board games and more. What’s not to love? This fun and causal spot attracts bike riders of all stripes and local residents craving a good craft beer and some very tasty sausages. 415.721.7895

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JAVA HUT You’ll need to fuel up before or in the middle of your ride on the twisty roads of Marin. Cyclists love to park in the bike racks, sidle up to one of the picnic tables with a latte or cappuccino and get ready to push the pedals. 415.457.4581

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SUNSHINE BICYCLE CENTER (pictured) You have to make sure you are tuned up before you roll out. With great service and brands like Trek, Cannondale, Moots and Ibis, Sunshine is the perfect place to stop before you ride, or to buy a bike so you can join the fun. sunshinebicycle.com

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TAMARANCHO FLOW TRAIL The Camp Tamarancho trail is a nine-mile single-track trail on Boy Scouts of America land just outside Fairfax. But for even more excitement, mountain bikers love to get the adrenaline flowing on the curves of the one-mile flow trail section finished May 2013. Be sure to get a $5 pass first. facebook.com/tamoflow

EAT

Downtown Dining

If you’re going out to a movie or to hear some live music, you’ll need to grab a bite first. Downtown Fairfax has a diverse array of options sure to please. There is charcuterie at 123 Bolinas, fresh sandwiches, salads and soups at Good Earth, organic Indian at Lotus, burgers and fries at M&G or authentic Italian at Sorella. Pick any one; you can’t go wrong.

GOOD EARTH NATURAL FOODS 720 Center Blvd, 415.454.0123, genatural.com

CAFE LOTUS (pictured) 1912 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.457.7836, cafelotusfairfax.com

M&G BURGERS AND BEVERAGES 2017 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.454.0655

SORELLA CAFFE 107 Bolinas Rd, 415.258.4520, sorellacaffe.com

ROCK ON

Fairfax rocks. Not just on some nights, but every night. If you like folk, ska, rock, acoustic, country, reggae, psychedelic, cover bands, open mic or just about anything else you can think of, Fairfax is the place to go to please your ears. Peri’s Bar, 19 Broadway and the Sleeping Lady are the heavy hitters, but Iron Springs Pub and Brewery also has music every Wednesday, and the Fairfax Festival in June offers two days full of music on three stages. No matter how you slice it, that’s a lot of music for one small town.

DANNY CLICK AT THE SLEEPING LADY

CATCH SOME AIR Earlier this spring, in a report titled “Yeah, But It’s Our Airport,” the Marin County Civil Grand Jury voted to keep Gnoss Field open for business. As they reported, “The runway is too low and too short and points in the wrong direction. The facilities are dated … the airport is beloved by many users; it angers some of its neighbors; and, ultimately, Marin County could not get rid of Gnoss Field if it wanted to.” The report also suggested that we all visit our airport: “Some Saturday or Sunday, load up the family and drive out to Gnoss Field to watch a few takeoffs and landings.” We agree. gnossfield.org

Novato

All in the Family

It’s not so easy to be chosen as the designated spot that families return to again and again. Creating a menu and ambience that please not only the little ones’ but also the parents’ palates takes a special touch. If you have kids, you’ll appreciate the following local eateries that we feel best cater to the juniors and seniors in the crowd without compromise.

Field of Dreams

In Marin, we like to stay active. Just check the national stats: Marin is one of the healthiest places to live in the country. That’s partly because we have great facilities that cater to our sportsmen and sportswomen needs. We raise our water bottles to these three Novato favorites. 83

COLLEGE OF MARIN INDIAN VALLEY CAMPUS Sure, the athletic fields and pool were built for the students, but kids and adults throughout the community use them all year long. The fields are particularly popular in the evenings, as they are some of the few with lights. marin.edu 84

STAFFORD PARK Situated on the shores of Stafford Lake, the 139-acre park serves as a backdrop to many recreational activities, including a state-of-the-art bike park coming soon. staffordlakebikepark.com, marincounty.org

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STONETREE GOLF CLUB After a session on the 18-hole championship golf course, you might feel like you’ve taken a vacation, as the setting and weather are superb and the martinis at the Black Point Bar & Grill are more than resort-worthy. stonetreegolf.com

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CALIFORNIA GRILL AND ROTISSERIE 1531 S. Novato Blvd, 415.893.1540, califgrill.com 87

GHIRINGHELLI’S PIZZERIA & WINE BAR 1535 S. Novato Blvd, 415.878.4977, ghiringhellisnovato.com 88

HOPMONK TAVERN 224 Vintage Way, 415.892.6200, hopmonk.com 89

MARVIN’S RESTAURANT 1112 Grant Ave, 415.892.4482 90

RICKEY’S RESTAURANT 250 Entrada Dr, 415.883.9477, rickeysrestaurant.com 91

TOAST (pictured) 5800 Nave Dr, 415.382.1144, toastnovato.com

West Marin

Farm to Table

West Marin is brimming with agriculture, resulting in the organic produce and meat that are showcased in four-star restaurants in San Francisco and farmers’ market stands throughout the county. But if you want a real farm-fresh meal, we recommend getting closer to the source at one of these coastal eateries.

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MARIN SUN FARMS 10905 Highway 1 (Point Reyes Station), 415.663.8997, marinsunfarms.com

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OSTERIA STELLINA 11285 Highway 1 (Point Reyes Station), 415.663.9988, osteriastellina.com

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PARKSIDE CAFE 43 Arenal Ave (Stinson Beach), 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com

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SALTWATER OYSTER DEPOT 12781 Sir Francis Drake Blvd (Inverness), 415.669.1244, saltwateroysterdepot.com

SIR AND STAR AT THE OLEMA (pictured) 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd (Olema), 415.663.1034, sirandstar.com

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A RUSTIC DOWNTOWN

Aside from being a gateway to natural wonder, Point Reyes Station is home to a number of unique purveyors — a revelation that can easily turn a quick stroll downtown into an all-day event. Stop by Bovine Bakery for coffee and a house-made pastry before indulging in an array of cheeses at Cowgirl Creamery. Lovely international shop Zuma offers a variety of goods right up the road from Gallery Route One, which houses work by local artists. And around the corner, Garden of Eden Apothecary doles out organic salves, creams and herbs designed to cure what ails you. pointreyes.org

Wild Beaches

There is nothing quite like gazing at the open ocean from the shores of a vast sandy beach. Luckily for us, some of the most pristine and breathtaking beaches in the state can be found within Point Reyes National Seashore.

PLAY

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ABBOTTS LAGOON BEACH The beach, located on the way to Tomales Point, is accessible via an easy, scenic hike. After parking, stroll down a path lined with coastal shrubbery and drink in the sight of Abbots Lagoon before making your way to the ocean.

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DRAKES BEACH Lined with towering cliffs, the rocky Drakes Beach is one of the most dramaticlooking in the area. In high season, the Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center and its fun historical offerings make this an ideal spot for kids and adults alike.

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LIMANTOUR BEACH (pictured) Spend a day in the sand at Limantour. This beach draws a kite-loving family crowd, but those looking to enjoy a quieter day by the sea need only head to the dunes, which offer natural seclusion.

THE GREAT BEACH North Beach and South Beach make up this monolithic waterfront; park at either outpost to enjoy a sunny day in the sand and find a prime spot to catch the sunset. Don’t miss the breathtaking view of the shoreline from the Point Reyes Lighthouse area.

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Takin’ Care of Business

Multigenerational partnerships prove that success comes to families who work together.

BY LAURA HILGERS

WHEN ERNEST ONGARO, who founded the heating and plumbing company Ongaro and Sons in 1932, decided to hand down his San Anselmo business to his sons and grandsons, he set one rule in place: If you want to be on the family payroll, you need to work someplace else first.

“The reason was simple,” says Dean Ongaro, a third-generation owner. “Everyone should work for a crummy boss at least once. And if you want to appreciate something, see what it’s like working for someone else.”

Ernest was wise: The company is now run by four of his grandsons. And though splashy national headlines tell of epic family business battles (see: the Koch brothers or pretty much any of the Murdoch clan), the truth is such companies can be pretty good places to work. “There are a lot of advantages to working in a family business,” says JoAnne Norton, Ed.D., an Irvine-based consultant with the Family Business Consulting Group, “and there are so many more families who work together harmoniously than the ones who don’t.”

By defi nition, family businesses combine the two things that make people the most happy and drive them the most crazy. What’s surprising, though, is that they actually perform better than nonfamily enterprises. According to Norton, who taught a class on family businesses at Cal State Fullerton, the average life expectancy of a company in the U.S. is 12 years, but for family-run concerns, it’s 24.

Marin is home to a number of such businesses, especially if the surname happens to be Italian: Ghilotti, Giacomini, Ongaro, Brusati, Ghiringelli. While the county does not keep statistics on family businesses, we’re probably in line with the rest of the country. According to the Small Business Administration, 90 percent of all businesses nationwide are family owned. That includes everything from behemoths like Wal-Mart to midsize construction companies to grocery stores like Paradise Foods in Corte Madera, Tiburon and Novato.

By definition, family businesses combine the two things that make people the most happy and drive them the most crazy.

Opposite page: Don (left), Ernie and Rich Ongaro. This page, from top: Toby (left) and Chris Giacomini in front of Toby’s Feed Barn in 1976; Ongaro and Sons in the 1940s.

Opposite page: T & B Sports in the mid-1950s.

“One of the greatest advantages of working in a family business,” says JeffBrusati, a second-generation owner of T & B Sports in San Rafael, “is that you get to work with people who are important to you.” Brusati, who co-owns the company with his brother Mike, also employs his son Anthony, 31, in sales. “It’s a true family a ff air; we all support each other and help each other as much as we can.”

There are a lot of reasons family businesses thrive. The first, says Norton, is that people are often groomed for their jobs from childhood, earning a “kitchen table MBA.” Or in Maggie McDonogh’s case a kitchen table captain’s license. McDonogh, a fourth-generation owner of the Angel Island Ferry, grew up working alongside her father, Milton, learning how to pilot and maintain the boat. As a mother she is training own kids — or “potential ferryboat captains” as she calls them — in turn. When Sam and Becky (now 19 and 12) were babies, she carried them in a BabyBjorn while ferrying passengers across the bay. When they were toddlers, she kept a playpen in the wheelhouse. And when they were old enough to argue with each other — along with her stepson, Ben, now 8 — she used the public announcement system at least once to yell at her kids, “Don’t make me stop this ferryboat!” Customers still remember that one.

Other business owners forged their working relationships by playing together as kids. Mitch Ongaro says he, his brother Dean, and their cousins Ernie and Paul work well together because they spent so much time fi shing and hunting as kids at their grandfather’s ranch in Napa and continue to take such trips even now. “I know hunting and fishing aren’t politically correct, but when we go on these trips, we fi gure stuffout,” says Mitch. “When we were little, we’d be on the ridge at 5 a.m., and we’d have to trust each other completely, or we’d get lost. We just learned to get along.”

Of course, family members don’t always get along, which can get a little sticky. So how do they resolve conflicts? In a slightly different way than, say, a contentious corporate board meeting. When the four co-owners of Ongaro and Sons were deciding, in the early 1990s, whether to abandon the retail part of their plumbing business, Ernie, the president, presented his relatives with a stack of paper showing that it made no money. Dean, however, was adamant they keep it, because it created goodwill in the community. They held a family meeting and Ernie asked, “What’s it going to take for you to see this is a loss?” “A new Toyota truck,” Dean replied. “What else?” Ernie prodded. “Fourdoor, four-wheel drive,” Dean replied. To which Ernie said, “Done,” and away went retail. After it all ended, Mitch — who had sided with Ernie — thought, “Son of a bitch, I should have argued for a truck.”

Some families, like the Giacominis, who’ve owned Toby’s Feed Barn in Point Reyes Station for three generations, take a more sanguine approach to con fl ict. “We all do yoga,” says Nicholas Giacomini, a family member who’s better known now as the yoga hip-hop artist MC Yogi. And if that fails? “Then we do Pilates and yoga.”

Working with family can also lead to a few blurred lines, which sometimes drives Maggie McDonogh’s fiancé (and business partner) William Bryerton a little crazy. “I’m the type of person who has things bouncing around in my head until I can get them out,” says McDonogh, “and it will be nighttime and we’ll be in bed, and poor William will ask me, ‘Do we have to talk about this now?’ and I’ll just say, ‘I have to talk about this; I have to get it out of my head.’ ”

It’s this level of nonstop commitment, though, that accounts for some of family businesses’ success, Norton says. Brusati knows that well. He dropped out of college just one semester shy of graduation to take over T & B Sports after his dad died in 1978. And when the stores get busy, he sheds his owner hat, “and I work side by side with everyone on the retail floor, or work the front register if needed.”

Family businesses offer what Norton calls agility, meaning that they can get things done without endless meetings; competent people can be promoted quickly; and work schedules can be flexible. Like the day last summer when the salmon were running, and Dean and Paul Ongaro decided

Below: The Angel Island Ferry as it looked in 1975.

People are more willing to make sacrifices, earn a little less money and work harder when they have to face their shareholders at the Thanksgiving table.

to play hooky for a day to go fi shing, leaving the operation to their relatives and their employees, all people they knew they could trust. It’s pretty common in family businesses for even non-related employees to be considered family. Except for seasonal businesses like the Angel Island Ferry, they tend to hire employees and keep them. At Toby’s Feed Barn, the general manager, Oscar Gamez, has been with the Giacominis for 25 years. The assistant manager, Laura Takahashi, has been employed by them for 20.

At the end of the day, it all comes down to commitment, which is a lot stronger, says Dean Ongaro, “when your name is on the business.” And, says Norton, whether the company is big or small, people are more willing to make sacri fices, earn a little less money and work harder “when they have to face their shareholders at the Thanksgiving table.”

Which leads to the most important question of all: When the family gathers around for Christmas cioppino, a bottle of red wine, and memories and laughs, what matters most, family or business? “Family, no question,” says Nicholas Giacomini. “At the end of the day, the business is just a building.” m

FAMILY TIES

GHILOTTI BROS., INC.

Celebrating 100 Years

Ghilotti Bros., Inc. has traveled far in 100 Years! From the simple craftsmanship, hard work and dedication of James Ghilotti, our Italian stone mason founder, to the passion and energy of the four Ghilotti brothers who then took it over, the company became the powerhouse of Northern California construction. As third-generation owners, Dante and Mike continue its legacy of “doing a job well, treating employees with courtesy and respect, and doing good work for the community in which you live and work.” Ten awards received so far for 2014 includes: ‘Quality in Construction’ (National Asphalt Pavement Association); ‘Success in Motion’ (Caltrans); ‘Excellence in Partnering’ (International Partnering Institute); and ‘Best Contractor in the North Bay’, for the 3rd year, (North Bay Biz).

Pictured (left to right): Mike and Dante Ghilotti 415.454.7011, www.ghilottibros.com, San Rafael, CA

FAMILY TIES

KASTEN BUILDERS

Modern Home Master Builders

Denny Kasten started Kasten Builders in 1972 and soon after teamed with Brother John Kasten to start Creative Energy. The two brothers have worked together ever since. Today, Kasten Builders is a premier builder of custom residences in Marin—working with top local architects, interior designers, and sophisticated clientele to create amazing places to live. Denny’s son, Pete Kasten, joined in 1996, after having grown up learning and loving the trade. Both Kasten Builders and Creative Energy continue to thrive in their respective markets due to good old fashioned hard work and always taking care of the client.

Pictured (left to right): Pete and Denny Kasten 415.897.4500, kastenbuilders.com, San Rafael, CA

FAMILY TIES

CREATIVE ENERGY Spas and Fireplaces

Creative Energy, serving Marin since 1976, takes pride in providing world class customer service and support while retailing high-end spas and fi replaces. Many Marin residents will recognize the man in the middle. John Kasten enjoys giving his advice and expertise to hundreds of Marin families every year with on site consultations prior to their spa delivery. His son John runs the South Bay operation, and David is the operations manager and custom fi replace expert.

Marin County has been very good to the Kasten family, Kasten Builders, and Creative Energy. We are all very blessed to live in such an area.

Pictured (left to right): David, John and John Kasten 415.472.7727, creativeenergy.com, San Rafael, CA

FAMILY TIES

EQUIUS PARTNERS

Preserving Family Wealth For The Next Generation

Family matters. Releasing our clients from the fear and apprehension of talking to their children about wealth allows engagement in meaningful conversations. Our approach aligns your family’s goals, values and resources with an enduring investment philosophy. Since 1992, we have applied investment science and behavioral fi nance to reduce stress and anxiety around investing. With the children of our founders rounding out an experienced and dedicated team, we enable multiple generations to learn about and implement a disciplined approach to wealth. We assist the children and grandchildren of our clients in understanding the principles and techniques necessary to preserve family wealth in a responsible way.

Our unconventional investment experience eliminates mystery and complexity. Equius clients feel informed and in control of their Investment Plan. We start with a deep understanding of each client to align goals with investment planning. We help clients use this awareness to direct their energy to the things that matter most to them.

Pictured (left to right): Jeff Troutner, Jason Zahorenko, Judy Arntz, Will Jonckheer, T.J. Troutner, Phil Jonckheer, Kari (Troutner) Humphrey, Katie (Troutner) Calagui and David Wootton 415.382.2500, equiuspartners.com, Novato, CA

FAMILY TIES

SAGE EDUCATORS

Customized Tutoring and Test Prep

“Learning is personal,” says Marin education expert William Heaps. “I don’t remember the lectures from school. I remember when my teacher was speaking directly to me.”

This philosophy inspired William and wife Jaime to open Sage Educators in 2007. Now in Mill Valley and Larkspur, Sage is a welcoming community wherein students receive customized academic support—from K-12 tutoring to SAT prep and college application assistance. They give students context for school and teach with empathy, humor and care. Jaime says, “We care about their academic ful fi llment and personal happiness, and we care about the people they will grow up to be.”

As Heidi W., a Sager attending UCLA, explains, “Sage is more than a tutoring company, it’s a family.”

Pictured (left to right): Maggie Heaps Lauffer, Jaime, Josie and William Heaps

415.388.7243, SageEducators.com, Mill Valley, CA 415.461.7243, SageEducators.com, Larkspur, CA

FAMILY TIES

CERAMIC TILE DESIGN

Thirty Years of Tile

Steve Cerami began learning the tile setting trade in 1976 and eventually started his own installation business. In 1983, he opened a tile showroom, motivated in part by the impending birth of his son. So it was that Ceramic Tile Design and Ryan Cerami came into being in that same year. Steve’s wife, Kathy, soon joined the company and became a strong in fluence over CTD’s family culture.

Thirty years later, Ceramic Tile Design is thriving, with 2 showrooms, 2 warehouses, plus commercial and distribution divisions. Ryan has worked in practically every aspect of the company and with a degree in International Business from Cal Poly, has brought new perspective. This past year, Ryan was promoted to Vice President and was elected to CTD’s Board of Directors.

Pictured (left to right): Ryan and Steve Cerami 415.485.5180, ceramictiledesign.net, San Rafael, CA

FAMILY TIES

MARIN ROTO-ROOTER

Locally and Family Owned since 1957

Many would consider the plumbing business no place for a lady. Calegari’s family has been in the plumbing business for three generations. Great Uncle Frank started the Roto-Rooter franchise in Marin County in 1957. Mendy’s dad, Don, bought the franchise from his uncle in 1972. Helping her Dad at the office was a great way to spend time with him and observe fi rsthand his terri fic work ethic.

After many years of mentoring by her father, Mendy con fidently took charge, and for the past 17 years has been actively dedicated to upholding her family’s strong commitment to their community through both great service and philanthropy.

Pictured (left to right): Don and Mendy Calegari 415.898.2700, rotorooter.com, Novato, CA

FAMILY TIES

Julianna, along with her daughter, Judy, opened Julianna’s Fine Jewelry in The Village at Corte Madera almost 30 years ago. Julianna’s granddaughter, Caitlyn, can also be seen working alongside the mother/daughter team. With the store for 26 years, Jean-Louis Van Den Bosch, a custom design and fine gem expert, is specialized in creating fabulous, one-of-a-kind pieces. They also carry many beautiful high-end designers such as Roberto Coin, Gabrielle, Simon G, and many more, as well as a large selection of fi ne Swiss made watches: Rolex, Breitling, Omega, Raymond Weil, Tissot, Luminox, and Frederique Constant. Whether choosing an engagement ring, a special gift or needing a jewelry/watch repair, everyone at Julianna’s will make sure that you receive superior service and quality.

Pictured (left to right): Judy White, Julianna Foris and Caitlyn White 415.924.9711, juliannasfinejewelry.com, Corte Madera, CA

Julianna’s

WHITEWATER ADVENTURE

STORY AND PHOTOS BY BEN DAVIDSON

Thrills and chills on the Class III rapid Hospital Bar.

WITH RAPIDS NICKNAMED Meatgrinder, Troublemaker and Satan’s Cesspool, you might envision the American River’s South Fork eating rafters for dinner. But in fact, it’s the opposite: whitewater a ficionados devour this river in droves, feasting on the abundance of dam-released thrills and scenic Sierra foothills beauty.

Because it is so accessible to Northern Californians, the American River is one of the state’s most popular whitewater rafting rivers. But just because it’s packed with rafters spring through fall doesn’t mean this churning, gurgling waterway in the heart of the Gold Country is predictable. Every day, more than 20 named rapids rise and fall, rocks and “holes” in the river flow appear and disappear, and the mountain-fed stream remains moody, wild and supremely fun. It’s a wonderfully natural roller-coaster ride through the foothills of the Sierra, popular with family rafters and whitewater kayaking enthusiasts who fi nd the South Fork perfect for practicing their tricky rolls and turns.

It’s All About Class

All raftable rivers are rated on a class scale to help riders determine the size and technical di fficulty of the whitewater. Most weekenders choose more moderate whitewater, simply to relax and soak up the beauty of the scenery. Others are looking for a more intense experience. Class I- and II-rated rivers have calm stretches and moderate whitewater with waves up to three feet. Class III rivers have waves up to four feet and travel through narrow passages that provide plenty of thrills. Class IV rivers feature long, technically di fficult rapids and turbulent water. Class V is the highest rating for raftable rivers and feature large, complex, gushing rapids that provide enough twists and spins to satisfy the most insatiable adrenaline junkie.

The South Fork, rated Class III, is the most family-friendly of the three forks of the American, with the easiest rapids to

negotiate. It’s ideal for those who want just the right amount of thrills and plenty of relaxing nature-and-family bonding time. Since its flows are regulated by dam releases, rafters are assured plenty of water flow throughout the season. The American’s Middle Fork (Class IV) abounds in thrilling whitewater, wildlife, history and wilderness camping. In contrast, the free-flowing North Fork (Class III and IV in spring) is a truly wild ride. It rushes through the upper reaches of deep, narrow Sierra Nevada canyons, with thrills — and possible spills — along the entire route. Boating is best on the North Fork from April through June, depending on the winter snowpack and spring runoff. Unlike the dam-dependent South Fork, the North Fork is free-flowing, and the water reduces to a trickle in the summer and fall months.

Father and Daughter Time

Last summer, my daughter and I joined another Marin family and their two girls for a two-day raft and camping trip on the American’s South Fork with OARS, one of the oldest and most established rafting out fits of the dozens that ply the American and other rivers in California.

We started our weekend adventure with an optional (and free) pre-trip camp night at OARS’ two-year-old riverside location, the River Park Adventure Campground in the little burg of Lotus. After a smooth two-hour drive on Highways 80 and 50 and a stint on some winding Gold Country roads outside Placerville, we pulled into Lotus and OARS’ large dirt parking lot.

It was hot and dusty as we used big rubberwheeled wheelbarrows to transport our

Opposite: Enjoying time on a calmer section of river. This page, clockwise from top: Tent platforms; everyone paddle; fun games and activities in camp.

IF YOU GO

OARS American River campground is an easy two-and-a-half-hour drive from Marin. For more information, call 855.541.4792 or visit oars.com.

Other outfitters offering two-day camping trips on the South Fork:

Adventure Connection raftcalifornia.com

All Outdoors Rafting aorafting.com

American River Recreation arrafting.com

American Whitewater Expeditions american whitewater.com

ARTA River Trips arta.org

Beyond Limits Adventures rivertrip.com

EarthTrek Expeditions earthtrekexpeditions.com

Environmental Traveling Companions etctrips.org

Mariah Wilderness Expeditions mariahrafting.com

Mother Lode River Center malode.com

Tributary Whitewater Tours whitewatertours.com

W.E.T. River Trips raftwet.com

Whitewater Connection whitewaterconnection.com Whitewater Excitement whitewaterexcitement.com

camping gear to the parents’ tent site called Baja Plaza, located in the heart of the camp amid piles of old mining tailings. The girls settled into the campground’s own preset platform tents, away from the main campground near a little stream.

We were the only campers that evening and the place offered easy access to swimming in the river, just a few hundred yards away. Despite the summer heat, the water was surprisingly cold and refreshing. The girls discovered the campground’s activity resources: pool tables, horseshoes, volleyball, a life-size chessboard and a nature trail. The peaceful solitude provided a quiet base camp for our whitewater adventures to come.

The Adventure Begins

The next morning around 10, our group of two dozen rafters convened for a river orientation and safety talk and to get fitted with helmets and the standard bulky life vests known as PFDs. We looked and felt a little goofy, all padded up and helmeted, as we walked with our paddles through the campground to the river’s shore, but it all made sense once we got on the river for ou r fi rst whitewater thrills.

After we practiced paddle strokes with our OARS guide, an amiable and highly experienced Tennessean named Jim Hollar, the ride started with Barking Dog Rapid and plenty of opportunities to go swimming in the calmer sections of the river. Beautiful Gold Country scenery — oak trees and pine forests, steep shrubby hillsides — whisked by as the swift, translucent water swept us over flow-shaped river rocks beneath. It was serene and thrilling at the same time.

Several miles of Class II rapids allowed us to warm up before Jim expertly guided our raft through a section called the Gorge, where the canyon walls narrowed and the river flowed very swiftly. The South Fork’s Gorge begins at the base of the Lollipop Tree, where the canyon walls constrict the flow of the river and help create a splashy, action-packed series of Class III rapids such as Fowler’s Rock, Satan’s Cesspool and Hospital Bar.

Just below the splashy Highway Rapid, a few miles down the river, we pulled into a wide eddy and paused for a fi lling deli-style picnic lunch among the shady oak trees. The girls, happy with their sandwiches piled high with fresh cold cuts, cheese and veggies, lemonade,

water, fresh fruit and cookies, giggled and laughed as they ate lunch under a shade tree and then jumped in the river for some drifting sessions. We resumed our journey and paddled all the way to Salmon Falls Bridge at Folsom Lake, where a jet-ski service provided a tow on the flat waters to the bustling takeout spot, crowded with rafters fi nishing their day on the river.

The second day, after fresh coffee and a hearty guide-prepared hot breakfast, we took a 25-minute shuttle ride on a schoolbus-type vehicle to Chili Bar and the start of day two’s stretch of river. We explored the upper part of the South Fork, with a put-in at Chili Bar and take-out at OARS’ River Park campground.

In less than a mile we met ou r fi rst big splashy rapid, Meatgrinder, then more rapids at Racehorse Bend, Triple Threat and the infamous Troublemaker, a photographers’ favorite, where a wicked S-turn is followed by an immediate four- or fi ve-foot drop. As we hooted and hollered — and ducked for cover — Jim swept us through the torrent for a perfec t fi nale to our whitewater adventure in the heart of the Sierra’s Gold Country. m

NACHO POLO Mark your calendar for next month’s first-ever Sonoma polo match, featuring the St. Regis polo ambassador and model Nacho Figueras. Guests will enjoy a catered picnic featuring Argentine asado (think barbecue) cooked up by St. Regis San Francisco executive chef Oliver Belliard and tastings of varietals from Hamel Family Wines. For those wishing to make a weekend of it, the St. Regis “Polo Cup Aficionado” package includes two nights at the hotel, treatments at Remède Spa and transportation in a Bentley to the match, starting at $6,750. Just want to see the polo? Match tickets are $350. stregissanfrancisco. com/polo-cup

MIMI TOWLE

Make a Splash

Have you had your pool time this summer? Here are three of our favorite aquatic spots and a reason to visit. M.T.

1Bardessono Catch the last Dive Bar pool party of the summer at this swanky rooftop pool and bar August 28. The event is free and open to the public. bardessono.com

2The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn Be sure to catch at least one “Splash After Dark” event this summer (once a month through September). Enjoy signature drinks, promotional giveaways, cabana rentals and music by DJ CAMS. This month’s event is August 14. fairmont.com/sonoma

3The Carneros Inn Lounge by the pool during the day, then watch a moonlight movie once the sun goes down. This month, the Saturday night flicks include The Wolf of Wall Street, Nebraska and Notorious. thecarnerosinn.com

BEVERLY HILLS TURNS

100

Looking for that old-time Beverly Hills glam? Find it as the famous town celebrates its 100th anniversary by transporting guests back in time. Five luxurious hotels are working with local designers to re-create one of their luxury suites in classic style. The Beverly Hills Hotel & Bungalows will be paying homage to the mystique of Marilyn Monroe, a frequent guest, by designing a room with gracefully curved furnishings in rich hues of green and blue. Montage Beverly Hills will capture the sultry sophistication of film noir; look for Lalique crystal and art from the period. The Beverly Hilton will be rocking it ’60s style by showcasing Tom Ford Designs. L’Ermitage Beverly Hills wants you to imagine Bianca Jagger breezing through the red velvet rope at Studio 54. The Peninsula Beverly Hills has transformed its suite (pictured) into the embodiment of modern Hollywood allure. As a nod to the year the city was founded, packages will start at $1,914. lovebeverlyhills.com M.T.

You vs. Wild

Sure, there’s Outward Bound and National Outdoor Leadership School courses, but do they teach you how to eat bugs? Let’s rephrase that — are they associated with a survival-ebrity who can find his way out of the Alaskan tundra with just his wits and whatever may be in his pocket? Bear Grylls, the “man” in the successful Man vs. Wild television show, has created his own Survival Academy, with locations in Yosemite, the Catskill Mountains, Colorado and Texas. The courses can vary from a four-day extensive adult adventure to a four-hour corporate retreat. Regardless of which course you take, the goal is to get you (or your Instagram-obsessed tween) into nature and see what you’re made of. “It’s about dynamic self-rescue survival skills that one day could save your life,” says Grylls. “It also encourages key life attitudes that make that critical difference both in the wild and in life — optimism, teamwork, initiative, courage, resourcefulness and determination.” beargrylls survivalacademy.com M.T.

Every Prince is oceanfront. Most every room is oceanview. FREE NIGHTS, resort credits and breakfast buffets — Fall Into Winter inclusions vary per resort for stays Octobermid-December. Some restrictions apply. No mandatory resort fees.

PrinceResortsHawaii.com/Fall 1 866 774 6236

Touring the streets of India by motorbike offers a full spectrum of sights, views and people.

BY ANNA SCHELL PHOTOS BY JOSEPH SCHELL

KOLKATA

THE MOTORBIKE JOLTS forward. Adrenaline bursts into my bloodstream and I grab the closest available anchor, my bony-shouldered driver, Ujjal. Before I have time to rethink what’s starting to feel like an unnecessary risk, we barrel down the narrow city street at speeds usually reserved for highways, darting right and then left and then careening forward.

My eyes water at the blast of dust and air. Ujjal confidently threads the bike through the fray, only slowing when we hit a snarl of taxis, buses and tuk-tuks (auto-rickshaws). We push through slivers of roadway, bumping up against vehicles on all sides, the front wheel of the motorbike wedging forward until there’s nowhere left to go. We stutter to an abrupt stop.

Red light.

A chorus of revving engines surrounds us. I release my vise grip on Ujjal. As I suck in a ragged breath, more engine exhaust than air, it dawns on me that this is probably the best way to experience India. Not traveling by train or car or foot, but strapped on the back of a rocket being steered by a speed demon roughly half my age. Taking

the risk. Living precariously. A fitting mode of travel in a country that, from my fi rst impressions, thrives on relentless forward thrust.

Engines roar around us, revving like we’re queued at the start line of the Grand Prix. I seize the back of my seat. My stomach fl ip-flops. Three. Two. One …

The light turns green. The motorbike bucks under us. I cinch my scarf over my grin, grab onto Ujjal, and we gallop off t a full sprint.

MY HUSBAND AND I PLANNED THE MOTORBIKE tour long before ever seeing the streets of India. It was one of the few tours we scheduled before leaving on our three-week trip, a fi rst visit to India for both of us. By the time we hit Kolkata, a week in, we had become as wary of guided tours as we were of the congested roadways. All the guides we had hired thus far had led us straight to the worst of the infamous India touts instead of helping us avoid them. But we made the motorbike tour reservations through a well-known, well-reviewed company called Backpackers and decided to give it a chance.

When we arrived at the office near Sudder Street in Kolkata, Rajesh, one of the company’s three founders, put us at ease immediately by offering us chai and a warm welcome, despite our excessive tardiness (we got lost, and then the cab driver got lost). He introduced us to our “riders” and informed us the tour would last approximately seven hours.

We balked. Apparently we hadn’t read the description very closely; we’d thought it would be more like three. Too late to change our minds now.

We walked to the bikes, small Yamahas. The company also offers rides on Royal En field bikes — a former British label now produced in India and the oldest motorcycle brand still in production — but our riders chose the smaller motorbikes for this trip. Strapping on my helmet, I climbed on the back and fumbled around for some kind of seat belt — something to strap me onto the bike. No dice.

“How do I keep from falling off ?” I asked Rajesh.

“You won’t fall off,” he said in broken but mostly-understandable English. “Actually, you might. But you won’t fall hard. Don’t worry.”

He nodded at Ujjal. “If he starts going too fast, just give him a tap on the shoulder.”

I nearly asked why Rajesh didn’t say the same thing to my husband’s driver. But as we started whizzing down the street, heart stamping against my chest, I knew the answer. My driver likes to go fast.

WE DASH ACROSS THE CITY, WIND SLAPPING AT OUR bodies, the road a blur, inches away from our feet, fearinduced smiles plastered to our faces. Ujjal and the other driver slow to a stop in front of an inconspicuous gray building beside a busy overpass.

“You go see now,” Ujjal says, nodding to the building.

I tug my helmet off nd disembark, legs wobbly on the pavement, and proceed toward the entrance with caution, eying two nuns seated on a bench next to the door. Ou r fi rst stop is the “Motherhouse,” a volunteer center and pilgrimage destination where Mother Teresa lived and worked among Kolkata’s poor from the 1950s until her death in 1997. Part of the building has been converted into a museum and viewing area for Mother Teresa’s tomb. After you’ve seen the Taj Mahal, this tomb feels downright barren: a sparse room with folding chairs lining the walls, plain white sarcophagus at its center adorned with a scattering of bright flower petals.

Visitors also have an opportunity to see the room where Mother Teresa lived and worked for more than 50 years. As I peer inside the austere space — barely big enough to fit a chair, desk and bed — I consider the poverty I have witnessed so far in Kolkata, which although improved since Mother Teresa’s time remains blatant and dire in many parts of the city. It’s easy to feel crushed by seeing such destitution. Too overwhelmed to act. Although not without her critics, Mother Teresa dove in, as have many in her footsteps. I walk out of the Motherhouse inspired to do the same.

But for the time being, I have a single goal: make it to the end of my motorbike tour in one piece. Ujjal waits on the sidewalk, cellphone at his ear. He puts it away when he sees me returning.

“Next,” he says, helping me strap my helmet back on, “we see Kali Temple, OK?”

I nod. “You’re the boss.”

He punts the kickstand and we take off.

OUTSIDE THE KALI TEMPLE WALLS IN KALIGHAT, vendors hawk their wares: snaking garlands of orange and yellow flowers, intricately woven tapestries and tables stocked with brightly colored fruits and vegetables. Inside, hordes of locals line up to offer prayers at the altar of the goddess Kali. Ujjal leads the way, navigating the crowds in the same way he does the streets: without hesitation, pushing his way through the beggars and faux priests, their palms outstretched in the hopes of a handout. I follow his lead, trying my best to ignore the constant clamor of touts.

“Every Thursday and Saturday, many families come,” Ujjal says. He turns to my husband. “For this part, no photos.”

He takes off oward the heart of the temple, motioning for us to follow. I begin to hear drums. Goats bleating. A chorus of voices, shouting. The closer we get to the temple’s core, the louder it gets. I feel something slippery under my feet and look down to see the floor of the temple covered in a slick of blood. My heart pounds with the beat of the drums as we approach a wide cage surrounded by crowds of people. Ujjal pushes me toward the bars of the cage. Inside, two men are strapping a goat’s neck onto a wooden block. Another man, who’s holding a machete dripping with blood, pours a glass of liquid over the goat.

“Do you smell the whiskey?” Ujjal says.

I breathe in, nearly choking on the stench of whiskey and blood.

“Uh huh,” I say, holding my hand over my mouth. “Watch, now!” he says, excitedly.

I might be sick. But I can’t look away. The drums quicken. The goat screams. The crowd bellows. The man raises the machete over his head and brings it down. Hard, on the goat’s neck. The goat’s eyes go wide, as if surprised. Tongue lolling out. Two men toss the goat by its hind legs and its body slams against the wall. The men dip thei r fi ngers into the goat’s blood and mark their foreheads. The body of the goat is dragged off o where, Ujjal says, it will be cooked and eaten by the family who brought it.

I’m still shaken by the image of the beheaded goat as Ujjal leads us back to the motorbikes. Hinduism doesn’t shy from the more brutal side of life and death. Later, I learn that Kali is one of the most bloodthirsty of the Hindu goddesses. The goat sacrifices are meant to (temporarily, at least) quench her thirst and bring bounty to families who participate in the ritual.

I clamor onto the motorbike, eager to get the image of the goat out of my head and clear the stench of blood from my nostrils.

DESPITE THE SEEMINGLY ENDLESS CITYSCAPE, IT TAKES only around 20 minutes to escape Kolkata’s tra ffic and wander into the countryside. Riding into the city’s outskirts, surrounded by fields of vegetable crops — cauli flower, eggplant, mustard — we bump along a pothole-fi lled road next to a blackened river that reeks of sewage. We pass rows of huts, farmers working the fields, piles of burning brush. Ten minutes up the road, Ujjal points to an enormous mound in the distance, a mass of birds swarming over it. I can barely see through the hazy smog.

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Joseph with bike; Howrah Bridge; Ujjal the guide. This page, from left: Motherhouse; Kali Temple.

“Garbage Mountain,” he says.

Garbage Mountain, as the locals call it, is Kolkata’s dump. The pile of trash takes up approximately 10 square kilometers and attracts thousands, who spend their days picking through the city’s refuse looking for plastic, glass and other recyclables. On our way back to the city, we pass the area where this recycling is processed, including wide quilts of crushed plastic shards splayed out beside the road in an array of bright colors that will eventually be melted down and re-formed.

From the countryside, we traverse the city again and cross the Vidyasagar Setu, which takes us over the slategray Hooghly River into the city of Howrah. We stop for an authentic Bengali lunch at a streetside joint, where we shovel mounds of spicy rice, dal (lentils) and fried fish with our fingers into our mouths, washing it all down with bottles of warm Coca-Cola.

Rejuvenated, we hit the road at full speed again, making our way through Kolkata’s version of Chinatown toward a vast botanical garden, where we dismount the bikes for long enough to walk off ur lunch. It doesn’t take us long to reach the centerpiece of this garden, the Great Banyan, lauded as one of the oldest and largest living trees on earth.

The tree feels more like a forest, each root dangling down from its blanketing canopy big enough to be a separate trunk, some so big I wouldn’t be able to reach both arms around. When I put my arm out to touch one of the roots, Ujjal stops me before my fi ngers hit the plant.

“No touching,” he says. “You pay lots of money.”

Although it appears plenty sturdy, the 250-year-old tree has been ravaged by monsoons. The park sets strict rules to prevent visitors from disrupting the fragile ecology of its root system. I take a minute before we go to enjoy a rare moment of peace and quiet under the protective canopy. Doing my best to carry that experience with me, I re-mount the motorbike and we take off oward our next destination, the Mullik Ghat flower market.

WE PULL INTO A DARK AND GRITTY ARMPIT UNDER the southeast end of the Howrah Bridge, where rows of vendors sit cross-legged, baskets of flowers displayed in front of them. The petals pop against their drab backdrop. Golds, yellows, oranges, reds.

Eager buyers browse and haggle, likely looking to brighten whatever the next festive occasion may be, such as a wedding or other religious ceremony (both easy to fi nd in India, especially in December). A loamy smel l fi lls the air as we push deeper into the market. Each alley we turn into offers new explosions of color, a seemingly endless floral labyrinth. I try on an intricate crown made of flowers, one of the more expensive items sold here, made to be worn by the bride and groom at a wedding.

Not far from the flower market, we stop by a few of the ghats lining the Hooghly River. A ghat is simply an entrance or walkway of steps leading to a body of water, usually a holy river. The fi rst ghat we visit is a bathing ghat. Here, people come to dunk in the river and bathe, or drink, or pray.

The second ghat we visit is called a burning ghat, where wealthy Hindus pay to have their loved ones cremated on a burning pyre. The cremation ritual is meant to help release the soul from its human body in order for it to be puri fied and eventually reincarnated.

Standing off o one side, we watch the dark outline of a body burn on a heap of wood, smoke rising up as the relatives watch from rows of nearby benches.

“See the head?” Ujjal says.

I see it. I try not to breathe too deep, avoiding the smell of burning hair and flesh. Ujjal explains that, depending on how big the body is, the burning ceremony can take anywhere from two to six hours.

“Very expensive,” Ujjal says.

An open-air funeral pyre can cost a family an entire month’s wages. Many opt for the much cheaper electric cremation.

Back on the motorbike, the fresh air streaming up my nostrils helps clear away the smell of death. I welcome

the rush of energy I feel coursing through my system and savor the feeling of being alive.

BY THE TIME WE ROLL INTO KUMORTULI, THE POTTERY and sculpting quarter of Kolkata, the sky has darkened. Rows of brightly lit shops line a dingy, narrow road, each one over flowing with clay statues of Hindu idols, some brightly painted and others not painted at all. Some hal f fi nished. Others complete. Some enormous, taller than me, and others the size of my palm.

One artist, a gray-haired man squatting as he sculpts a lifesize clay bust in front of his studio, barely looks up as I ogle the elaborate detail of his handiwork. Another shows me how he creates rows of identical Ganesh statues, using a mold to form the clay into the shape of the well-known elephant-headed god. The larger idols have a frame inside, covered by a layer of straw and then covered with clay before they are finally painted.

Ujjal says these statues will be featured in temples and religious festivals throughout the area. We had just missed the Durga Puja festival, one of the biggest of the year (which takes place in early October and features the many-armed Hindu goddess Durga). I make a mental note to check the festival schedule next time I plan a visit.

We whisk off s the sky goes black, snaking our way back toward the bustle of downtown Kolkata. Ujjal has warned my husband and me that for this final part of the tour, we cannot take photos. We are heading for a neighborhood called Sonagachi, the red light district, home to an estimated 10,000 sex workers. The documentar y film Born Into Brothels: Calcutta’s Red Light Kids turned a worldwide spotlight on the area when it won an Oscar for best documentary in 2005. Although prostitution is technically illegal in India, the trade flourishes in certain areas, like Sonagachi. As a result, sexually transmitted diseases like HIV and human tra fficking have long been major issues for the city.

The roadway leading to the main drag looks like any other downtown Kolkata neighborhood: hectic, gritty, loud.

Then I see the women. Masses of women, lining the streets. All shapes, sizes and colors. Many of them Indian, wearing saris, some with bleached blond hair. Some foreigners too. Women everywhere. They clog the streets, which have been reduced to a narrow pathway, their beckoning eyes aimed at the drivers on the road. Waiting for anyone to pull over.

But we’re not pulling over. Ujjal revs the engine and the motorbike breezes through the gauntlet.

Soon, the women of Sonagachi are behind us. The ghats are behind us. The beautiful banyan tree and the doomed goats at Kali Temple. The workers buzzing around Garbage Mountain and the inspiring Motherhouse. All behind us.

By the time we return to where we started, I’m exhausted. I step off f the bike feeling a mix of relief tinged with disappointment that the ride has ended. But mostly, I have an overwhelming sense of satisfaction in knowing that I saw parts of Kolkata I never knew existed. Not just the tourist parts. But the parts that make Kolkata real. The parts that make it multifaceted and unique. After such a ride, I can’t help but make a vow to come back. m

Although motorbike tours are relatively common in countries where that mode of travel is preferred, the focus on non-tourist destinations made this one unique. The group that organized the excursion is called Backpackers, which also offers a recommended tour of the Sundarbans jungle. tourdesundarbans. com/kolkata-tour-motor-ride.php

Opposite page, from left: Recycled plastic; Kolkata street scene; Garbage Mountain. This page, clockwise from left: Statue maker in the artist district; Anna at the flower market; young people in Kolkata.

AUGUST 23

6 –10 pm

A Moroccan-inspired evening gala supporting art, music, and fashion to benefit 10,000 Degrees. Creating college graduates who change the world.

EXCLUSIVE AFTER PARTY 10 –Midnight

presents for tickets to Hotbed Benefit visit www.hotbedbenefit.com

Out & About

CALENDAR / ON THE SCENE / DINE

Motown: The Musical

THEATER

THRU AUG 10 As You Like It

The Marin Shakespeare Company revisits its fi rst-ever outdoor production (1990) with the Bard’s comedy set in the Forest of Arden. Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org

AUG 1–3 Rent, the Musical Check out a youth production of the Broadway hit. Based loosely on Puccini’s La Bohème, Rent takes place in New York’s East Village, centering on a cast of characters struggling with money, careers and relationships during the AIDS era. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.388.9600, throck mortontheatre.org

Calendar

AUG 14–SEP 7 Fetch

Clay, Make Man San Francisco native Will Power takes a deeper look into an unlikely, civil rights–era friendship between heavyweight champ Muhammad Ali and disgraced actor Stephin Fetchit. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5200, marin theatre.org

AUG 15–SEP 28

Motown: The Musical Learn the stories of Motown stars Berry Gordy, Diana Ross, Marvin Gaye, Smokey Robinson and many more — all backed by the catchy music of the era. Orpheum Theatre (SF). 888.746.1799, shnsf.com

AUG 30–SEP 7 Five

Little Monkeys Based on a series of picture books, this show for

young audiences features a crew of little monkeys that get into a fair amount of mischief. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5200, marin theatre.org

DANCE

AUG 10 Virginia Iglesias’ Flamenco Academy of Dance Join artistic director, choreographer and teacher Virginia Iglesias for a performance of new works set to original compositions by Jorge Liceaga. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). 415. 473.6400, flamenco-academy.com

COMEDY

TUESDAYS Mark Pitta and Friends The comic hosts an evening for up-and-comers and established headliners to work on new material. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmorton theatre.com

MUSIC

TUESDAYS Swing Fever

The band pays tribute to jazz artists and composers with selections from its roster of more

than 1,000 tunes, every fi rst and third Tuesday. Panama Hotel (San Rafael). 415.457.3993, panamahotel.com

AUG 2 The Good Luck Thrift Store Outfit Enjoy food, drink, dancing and performances from this Americana/ bluegrass hybrid at the Summer Nights Outdoor Music Festival. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8081, marinjcc.org

AUG 3 Traditional Irish Music Jam Grab your pennywhistle and head to this Irish jam session, where locals play their favorite instruments in an impromptu performance that’s great fun whether you’re watching or playing along. Sleeping Lady (Fairfax). 415.485.1182, sleepinglady fairfax.com

AUG 9 Blame Sally Catch the last night of the Summer Nights Outdoor Music Festival featuring Blame Sally, a group of four unique voices that blend country, folk and rock. Also enjoy food, cocktails, dancing and a kid zone. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8081, marinjcc.org

THEATER / COMEDY / MUSIC / GALLERIES / MUSEUMS / EVENTS / FILM EDITED BY CALIN VAN PARIS

AUG 9 Night of Rhythm and Poetry Embrace

a special experience of sound, rhythm and poetry at this unique musical event, which features Indian and Persian drumming, musical poetry in a variety of languages and a fair amount of creative improvisation. Dance Palace (Point Reyes). 415.663.1075, lucidart.org

AUG 10

harmonies, focusing on themes of struggle, optimism and perseverance in the face of adversity. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.1100, sweetwater musichall.com

Steep Ravine

The acoustic quartet native to the Bay Area performs its folk and bluegrass music, featuring poetic lyrics and string-playing ingenuity. Part of the San Anselmo Arts Commission free music in the park concert series. Creek Park (San Anselmo). sananselmoarts.com

AUG 14 Israel

Vibrations This reggae band has been on the scene for more than 30 years and continues to perform its soulful

AUG 15 The Unauthorized Rolling Stones These imitators — known as one of the area's favorite cover bands — strut like the Stones and rock like them too. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.1100, sweetwater musichall.com

AUG 16 Lynyrd Skynyrd

The legendary rock band comes to the Bay Area to perform its signature Southernstyle guitar ri ffs and memorable lyrics, as well as songs from its 2012 studio album Last of a Dyin’ Breed The War field (SF). 415.345.0900, the war fieldtheatre.com

Five Little Monkeys at the Marin Theatre Company, Mill Valley

Jelincic

• FOULADI PROJECTS Be/Longing New photographic works by Nina Dietzel, Darija Jelincic and Anne Veraldi, through August 30. 1803 Market Street, 415.621.2535, fouladiprojects.com

AUG 22 B.B. King

Known to his fans as “the King of Blues,” B.B. King has released more than 60 albums since the late 1940s. Don’t miss a chance to see classics like “You Don’t Know Me” and “The Thrill Is Gone” live. The War field (SF). 415.345.0900, the war fieldtheatre.com

AUG 23 The Ray Charles Project Check out this sextet of Bay Area musicians (including Tony Lindsay, former lead singer of Santana) as they pay homage to blues legend Ray Charles. Fenix (San Rafael). 415.813.5600, fenixlive.com

AUG 23 Vinyl The Bay Area band presents a blend of funk, Latin percussion, reggae and R&B, inspiring audiences to get up and dance. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.1100,

sweetwater musichall.com

AUG 24 Dickey Betts and Great Southern A founding member of the Allman Brothers Band, Dickey Betts is regarded as one of the most in fluential guitarists in rock history. His solo set combines country, jazz, blues and rock. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.1100, sweet watermusichall.com

AUG 24 West Grand Boulevard Enjoy a medley of Motown, R&B and soul hits from West Grand Boulevard, who specialize in covers by the likes of Stevie Wonder, James Brown, Michael Jackson and more. Part of the free music in the park series. Creek Park (San Anselmo). sananselmoarts.com

AUG 31 Danny Click

The Bay Area favorite

performs his brand of bluesy rock accompanied by the energetic showmanship that keep fans coming back for more. Part of the free music in the park series. Creek Park (San Anselmo). sananselmoarts.com

GALLERIES

MARIN

Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Classes for artists. 751 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com

Art Works Downtown Works by Carol A. Levy, August 1–September 19. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, art worksdowntown.org

Bubble Street Featuring genres of fantastic art, imaginary realism, neo-Victorian and steampunk. 565 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.339.0506

Claudia Chapline Gallery and Sculpture Garden Contemporary sculpture by John Bucklin, Sylvia Goodman and Italo Scanga. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com

Falkirk Cultural Center Reflection An exhibit from the Terra Linda Ceramic Artists, through August 16. 1408 Mission Ave, San Rafael. 415.485.3328, falkirk culturalcenter.org

Fine Art Etc. Featuring a collection of sculptures and paintings by artists from Northern California and around the world. 686 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.1107, finearttc.com

Gallery Bergelli Group show, through August. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, bergelli.com

Gallery Route One The Box Show An annual fundraiser, during which 150 artists are given a plain wood box to transform, August 1–September 14. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org

Marin Society of Artists Fall Rental Show Rent original artwork for your home or offic or for staging, August 17–September 6. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyof artists.org

Mine Gallery Ongoing work. 1820 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Fairfax. 415.755.4472, gallerymine.com

O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Bay Area Women Artists Juried by Donna Seager and Suzanne Gray, through August 21. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org

Petri’s Fine Arts Featuring contemporary works in various mediums. 690 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.2626, petrisfineart.com

Robert Allen Fine Art Water Abstracted A group exhibition of works on canvas, panel and paper, August 7 –September 26. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robert allenfineart.co

Robert Beck Gallery Early California and contemporary plein air paintings. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898, beckgallery.org

Robert Green Fine Arts Abstract expressionist paintings by Sam Francis, John Grillo, Paul Jenkins, Jim Bird and more. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfineart.com

Roberta English Works by Cheung Lee, Mayumi Oda, Li Huayi, Ju Ming and Toko Shinoda. 1615 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.331.2975, robertaenglish.com

Rock Hill Gallery

Featuring Judith Calder, through August 14. 145 Rock Hill Dr, Tiburon. 415.435.9108, ccctiburon.net

Room Art Gallery

Works by both Bay Area artists and major masters, housing the largest collection of Picasso, Chagall and others

in Marin County. 86 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.380.7940, roomartgallery.com

Seager Gray Gallery A Sense of Place A group exhibition, August 2–31. 23 Sunnyside Ave, Mill Valley. 415.384.8288, seagergray.com

Studio 333 Why There Are Words Literary series featuring New York Times best-selling authors and other award-winning writers. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info

Studio 4 Art Work by local artists, classes and workshops with materials included. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net

The Blissful Gallery 3-D works by local artists. 3415 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach, 415.868.2787, theblissfulgallery.com

SAN FRANCISCO

ArtHaus An intimate presentation of diverse works in various styles and mediums by New York and Bay Area artists. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com

Caldwell Snyder Turn on, Tune in, Drop Out Recent sculpture by David Buckingham, through August 6. 341 Sutter St, 415.392.2299, caldwellsnyder.com

Electric Works Works by David Schubert. 1360 Mission St, 415.626.5496, sfelectricworks.com

Hackett-Mill Frank Lobdell: A Celebratory Exhibition A display of the artist’s paintings, drawings and

Escapes by Darija

Ladies Night

sculptures, through August 8. 201 Post St, 415.362.3377, hackettmill.com

John Berggruen Gallery Works in various mediums. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com

Meyerovich Gallery Alex Katz: New and Recent Works, through September 3. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com

Pier 24 Photography Works from the Pilara Foundation Collection. Pier 24, 415.512.7424, pier24.org

Rena Bransten Projects Summer Road Trip Works by Doug Hall, Tracey Snelling, Martin Mull and more, through August 16. 1639 Market

St, 415.982.3292, renabransten gallery.com

Thomas Reynolds Gallery Works by contemporary artists. 2291 Pine St, 415.441.4093, thomasreynolds.com

MUSEUMS

MARIN Bay Area Discovery Museum Super Kids Save the World Centering around “green” materials, this exhibit teaches kids to be super starting with the four Rs: recycle, reduce, reuse and repair (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org

Bolinas Museum Transmit/Receive Exhibitions Two exhibitions celebrating the 100-year anniversary of the fi rst trans-Paci fic wireless radio transmission from Marconi Station in Bolinas, through August 17 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org

Marin History Museum An Afternoon in a Victorian Parlor A display of an old-fashioned sitting room in the historic Boyd Gate House (San Rafael). 415.454.8538, marinhistory.org

Marin Museum of the American Indian Explore Native American history (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com

Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Motion/Emotion: MarinMOCA Member Show Works by members, through August 24 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org

BAY AREA Asian Art Museum Enter the Mandala An exhibit featuring works focused on cosmic centers and the mental maps of Himalayan Buddhism, through October 26 (SF). 415.581.3711, asianart.org

California Academy of Sciences Skulls Check out an exhibit featuring more than 640 animal skulls and learn the physiology, science and history behind them, through November 30.

(SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org

Conservatory of Flowers Chomp! They Came From the Swamp A collection of carnivorous plants, through October 19 (SF). 415.831.2090, conser vatoryofflowers.org

Contemporary Jewish Museum Project Mah Jongg, through October 28 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org

de Young Anthony Friedkin: The Gay Essay Photographs chronicling the gay communities in Los Angeles and San Francisco from 1969 to 1973, through January 11 (SF). 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org

Exploratorium Ongoing interactive exhibits exploring science, art and human perception (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu

Legion of Honor Matisse and the Artist Book Works from seven books of original illustrations by Henry Matisse, presented in conjunction with Matisse collection from SFMOMA, through October 12 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.org

Museum of Craft and Design Jennifer Crupi: A Display of Gestures The fi rst presentation of the celebrated metalsmith’s work, through October 5 (SF). 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org

470 Ignacio Blvd. Novato | 5627 Paradise Dr. Corte Madera | 1 Blackfield Dr. Tiburon 415.883.4600 415.945.8855 415.388.2770 www.foodsofparadise.com

Paradise Foods is a family owned, independent grocery store and we are proud to be serving Marin County.

We are Marin’s Best Complete Market, with an emphasis on quality, selection and service.

David and Nancy Gilmour, Owners

Karen McCloskey Stephanie Harris VP & COO Store Manager

Oakland Museum of California The Smallest of Worlds A selection of intricate dioramas portraying everyday Mexican street scenes from the collection of celebrated San Francisco artist Rex May, through August 31 (Oakland). 510.318.8400, museumca.org

Sonoma Valley Museum of Art Realism, Really? Today’s Contemporary Realists Works by California artists, August 8–October 26 (Sonoma). svma.org

The Walt Disney Family Museum Magic, Color, Flair Works by Mary Blair, through September 7 (SF). 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Bay Area Now 7 Works by Bay Area artists highlighting the regions’ cultural ecosystem, through September 28 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org

EVENTS

AUG 4 Opera Guild Champagne Gala Listen to the voices of some of the Adler Fellows, San Francisco Opera’s “young voices of tomorrow,” while enjoying Champagne and a sampling of hors d’oeuvres. The gala benefits opera education programs in Marin schools and helps fund public lectures.

San Domenico School Music Conservatory (San Anselmo). 415.942.9352, sfcv.org

AUG 4–10 Summer Retreat Join Kieran Healy in a weeklong contemplative retreat in the Dominican tradition. Enjoy an opportunity to reflect, rest and refocus on all areas of life, from compassion to beauty. Santa Sabina Center (San Rafael). 415.457.7727, santasabinacenter.org

AUG

8–10 American Craft Council Show

The Craft Council is back for its 39th year featuring handcrafted jewelry, apparel, furniture and home decor by more than 220 artists from across the country. Fort Mason (SF). 612.206.3100, craftcouncil.org

Lynyrd Skynyrd at The Warfield, S.F.

AUG 9 Spartan Sprint If you love all things adrenaline, don’t miss this stadium sprint. Those involved will get to experience AT&T Park up close and personal, with the obstacle race ending on the field. A Junior Spartan Adventure Race is available for kids ages 4 to 13. AT&T Park (SF). spartanrace.com

AUG 10 The French Market Experience the atmosphere of a French street market with antiques, books, vintage furniture, jewelry and much more, all in an outdoor setting featuring music, food and drink. Veterans’ Auditorium parking lot (San Rafael). golden gateshows.com

AUG 17 Midsummer Beerbecue Enjoy farm fresh local meats and vegetables prepared with beer marinades, house-brewed Mavericks beer, complimentary brewery tour and live music at

this festive event. Half Moon Bay Brewing Company (Half Moon Bay). 650.728.2739, hmbbrewingco.com

AUG 22 End of Summer Bash Say good-bye to summer with the Bay Area Discovery Museum. Dance to the kid-friendly tunes of Rhythm Child, participate in bilingual story time and hang out on your picnic blanket to soak up the last rays of the season. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykids museum.org

AUG 23 Viva Mexico Festival Celebrate the Bay Area’s Mexican community at this outdoor festival featuring live music, cultural arts and crafts, exhibitors, food and drink. Lagoon Park (San Rafael). marincounty.org

AUG 24 Festival Indepencia Salvadoreña Pay homage to Salvadoran

Independence Day with cultural crafts, exhibitors, displays, and a variety of Salvadorian cuisine, all accompanied by live music. Lagoon Park (San Rafael). marincounty.org

AUG 24 Pancake Breakfast Benefit Join the Tourist Club for a pancake breakfast benefiting A Home Away from Homelessness, created in 1994 in partnership with the National Park Service as a refuge for homeless children living in shelters. Enjoy views and food for a great cause. Tourist Club (Mill Valley). 415.388.9987, touristclubsf.org

AUG 31 Sand Sculpture Contest Join the Point Reyes National Seashore Association and the National Park Service for this annual sand-sculpting event. Participants of all ages are welcome, with prizes awarded for children, families,

adults and adult groups. Drakes Beach (Point Reyes). ptreyes.org

FILM

AUG 6 Monty Python Live (Mostly) The comedy legends perform onstage together for the fi rst time in more than 30 years, and it has been fi lmed for your viewing pleasure. Enjoy the antics of John Cleese, Terry Gilliam, Eric Idle, Terry Jones and Michael Palin. Smith Rafael (San Rafael). 415.454.5813, ca fi lm.org

AUG 6 Babe Head to the Marin Country Mart every Wednesday for free family Movies on the Green, beginning at 6 p.m. Grab some dinner before enjoying Babe, the heartwarming story of a pig. Marin Country Mart (Larkspur). 415.461.5700, marin countrymart.com

NATURE WALKS & TALKS

AUG 2 Matt Herron

Join the author as he discusses Mississippi Eyes, the story of five young photographers in the Southern Documentary Project during the summer of 1964. These photographers su ffered beatings by local police and nearly died while capturing images in Selma, Alabama. Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960, book passage.com

AUG 7 Dianne Hales

The author discusses her new book Mona Lisa: A Life Discovered, about the woman whose smile is known by all, but whose history is a mystery to most. The book blends biography, history and memoir to tell the story of the face behind Leonardo di Vinci’s masterpiece. Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com

AUG 7 Art in the Park Head to Paradise Beach Park to paint the San Pablo Bay with friends and family. Art supplies, smocks and healthy snacks will be provided. Paradise Beach Park (Tiburon). 415.435.9212, marincounty.org

AUG 7 Literary Lunch

Join Amy Bloom, author of Lucky Us and the New York Times best seller Away, for a literary discussion over lunch catered by Insalata’s. Participants receive an autographed copy of Lucky Us. Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960, book passage.com

AUG 8 Feather, Fur and Scales Learn about the similarities and di fferences between mammal, reptile and bird groups. Public Library (Point Reyes). 415.663.8375

AUG 9 Laurie McAndish King The author and adventurer discusses her latest book Lost, Kidnapped, Eaten Alive!, which chronicles adventures including tracking lions on foot in Botswana, marrying a Masai warrior in Kenya, attempting to eat a horse in southern Italy and much more. Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com

AUG 9 Visit Richardson Bay Audubon Center Bring the whole family for this special event at Richardson Bay Audubon Center and Sanctuary. Learn about the center’s mission to conserve and restore the natural ecosystems of Richardson Bay. Richardson Bay Audubon Center (Tiburon). 415.388.2524, wildcarebayarea.org

AUG 12 Astronomy Night: Perseids Meteor Shower Enjoy a familyfriendly evening under the stars on Mount Burdell. Dress in layers, wear sturdy shoes, bring a blanket and enjoy the Perseids meteor shower at its peak. Mount Burdell (Novato). 415.473.2816, marincountyparks.org

AUG 14–17 Travel Writers and Photographers Conference Seasoned travel writers and novices alike can check out this renowned conference, which offers an

Work by Forest Dickey at the American Craft Council, Fort Mason, S.F.

array of workshops, panels, discussions and presentations led by editors, publishers, essayists and more.

Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com

AUG 15–17

Fine Art of Travel Photography

Learn how to create art travel photography that goes beyond the typical snapshot at this threeday workshop, focusing on both digital and fi lm, landscapes and portraits. The Image Flow (Mill Valley). 415.388.3569, theimageflo.com

AUG 21 Suzanne

to see some of the early migrants — like willow flycatchers and western tanagers — begin to make the journey south. The mud fl ats also offer a chance to catch shorebirds returning from their northern arctic journey. Pinheiro Fire Road gate (Novato). 415.893.9508, marin countyparks.org

Klotz

Learn about “The Old Female Snake” or “Goddess of Ghee,” a regional goddess Suzanna Klotz came to know during her recent travels to Himachal Pradesh in the northwestern Indian Himalayas. Asian Art Museum (SF). 415.581.3701, asianart.org

AUG 23 Birds at Rush Creek Visit the bayside preserve for a chance

AUG 24

Sausalito Wooden Boat Tour

Victoria Colella penned a guidebook for the long-running Sausalito Wooden Boat Tour in 2003. Here, she discusses her newly released version. Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com

AUG 30 Ring

Mountain Grassland Restoration Volunteer at this monthly event to help restore Ring Mountain’s grasslands. Weed, tarp, build fences, install native plants and learn about the ecosystem. Ring Mountain (Tiburon). 415.473.5058, marin countyparks.org

RETAIL THERAPY

THRU AUG 3

Grand Opening Celebration

Celebrate as West Marine — the world’s largest water sports retailer — opens the doors to a new fl agship store in Sausalito. West Marine (Sausalito). 415.332.0202, westmarine.com

THRU AUG 31 Summer Sale Almost everything in the store is 20–70 percent off n a push to make room for fall merchandise. Viva Diva (San Rafael). 415.256.8380, vivadivaboutique.com

AUG 21 Biannual Sale A great chance to get brand-name shoes and accessories for up to 80 percent off. Item Shoes (Larkspur). 415.925.0109, itemshoes.com

500 Country Club Drive, Novato www.marincountryclub.com • 415.382.6712 membership@marincountryclub.com

Dine

• MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS French A local gem known for cuisine showcasing locally farmed produce, wild and fresh seafood and free-range meats prepared with an artisan’s touch, accompanied by a lengthy wine and beer list. 23 Ross Common, 415.925.9200, marcheauxfleursrestaurant.com

CORTE MADERA

BRICK & BOTTLE

California From private parties to catered events, chef Bob Simontacchi’s menu offers seasonal selections made with local ingredients. Enjoy signature dishes like orzo mac ‘n’ cheese with smoked Gouda and local favorites like sa ff ron fettucine and tomato braised short ribs. The restaurant also hosts one of the best happy hours in town. 55 Tamal Vista Blvd, 415.924.3366, brickandbottle.com

IL FORNAIO Italian Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian restaurant franchise. Aside from the pizzas and pastas, the menu offers a variety of salads and carb-free entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com

MARIN JOE’S Italian

This Marin mainstay has been around for over 50 years. Choose from a menu of soups, salads, seafood, mesquite-grilled or sautéed meats and a plethora of pasta options guaranteed to satisfy. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marinjoesrestaurant.com

PACIFIC CATCH

Pan-Asian The wellpriced menu features a bounty of freshly caught items and Paci fic Rim–inspired small or main plates, including generously portioned wasabi bowls fi lled with white or brown rice, veggies and your choice of chicken, beef or fi sh (cooked or raw). 133 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.3474, pacificcatch.co

SEA THAI BISTRO

Asian SEA stands for Southeast Asian, and co-owner and executive chef Tony Ounpamornchai infuses his cooking with Thai and other Asian flavors to create innovative dishes. 60 Corte Madera Ave, 415.927.8333, seathaibistro.com

THE COUNTER California/American

The folks at the Counter have taken the “have it your way” motto to a whole new level. Known for all-natural Angus beef, turkey, chicken and veggie burgers, the restaurant also offers a burger bowl (all the ingredients without the bun). And if you want a martini with your burger, no problem—there’s a full bar. 201 Corte Madera Town Ctr 415.924.7000, thecounterburger.com

Fig Leaf–Wrapped King Salmon

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS AND GOOD FOOD IN THE BAY AREA EDITED BY MIMI TOWLE

FAIRFAX

123 BOLINAS California

This Fairfax spot was created by four friends who aimed to showcase seasonal fare in a relaxing, intimate environment. Enjoy locally brewed beer, smallproduction wines and one of the many cheese boards as you take in the view of Bolinas Park through the floor-toceiling windows. 123 Bolinas St, 415.488.5123, 123bolinas.com

IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American

Choose from an extensive beer list, and enjoy your selection with an ale-braised BBQ pork sandwich, prawn tacos or the house-ground chicken bacon cheeseburger. 765 Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com

STEAKHOUSE GRILL & BAR American The longtime gathering place features a daily happy hour, live entertainment and a large, heated deck. Events include Draft Beer Night, Prime Rib Weekends and a champagne brunch on Sunday. 367 Bolinas Rd, 415.456.8084, deerpark steakhousegrill.com

KENTFIELD

AMBROSIA Italian This family friendly Italian joint serves traditional pizzas and homemade pastas, with one of the best wine-by-the-glass programs in Marin. Owner Mark Leslie is bringing his pizza, pasta and passion for good wines by the glass to Kent field— check Facebook for details. 800 College Ave, 415.454.9292

HALF DAY CAFE

American Tucked away in a setting of intertwining ivy and large open windows, this Cafe is the perfect breakfast nook and is also open for brunch and lunch. The menu includes coffee drinks, exceptional pastries and much more. Enjoy a casual meal inside or on the outdoor patio. 848 College Ave, 415.459.0291, halfdaycafe.com

LARKSPUR

BELCAMPO MEAT CO. American The goods at this meatery are delivered from the certi fied-organic Belcampo Farms near Mount Shasta, dedicated to practicing a holistic approach to pasture management.

Marin Country Mart, 2405 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.448.5810, belcampomeatco.com

EL HUARACHE LOCO

Mexican Chef Veronica Salazar’s menu has gained quite a following by way of the authentic Mexico City dishes.

Marin Country Mart, 1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.1403, huaracheloco.com

FABRIZIO RISTORANTE

Italian This restaurant was opened by Italian transplant Fabrizio in the early ‘80s. Swing by for traditional Italian dishes and an extensive wine list featuring bottles from all over Italy. Outdoor seating makes the experience even more special. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332, fabrizioristorante.com

• EL PASEO American

This Marin chophouse continues to impress as the years pass — the restaurant itself has been around since 1947. The menu speaks to the restaurant’s elegance, with offerings like roasted bone marrow, crispy duck wings and the El Paseo short rib. 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com

FARMSHOP California

Originally based in L.A., Farmshop Marin has customers clamoring for cocktails and a delicious assortment of California-centric cuisine. Call ahead for a reservation — this place is always packed.

Marin Country Mart, 2233 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.755.6700, farmshopla.com

MARIN BREWING

CO American Grab a cold beer made on site and pair it wit h fi sh ‘n’ chips — fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce — or another item from the all-American menu.

Marin Country Mart, 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com

PICCO California

Popular since its inception, dishes like mini-burgers , seasonally driven menu items, and risotto made every half hour, keep patrons coming back.

The Picco Pizzeria and Wine Bar next door is cozy (not many seats) and famous for its wood-fi red pizzas, great wine selection and soft-serve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com

RUSTIC BAKERY

California Try a large house-made pastry, an artisanal salad or a mouthwatering sandwich at this Marin favorite. Two Larkspur locations: Marin Country Mart, 415.461.9900; 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556, rusticbakery.com

SUSHI-KO Japanese

Choose from a large selection of maki, nigiri and sashimi before catching a movie right across the street.

Marin Country Mart, 1819 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.8400, sushi-ko.com

THE TAVERN AT LARK CREEK American The next chapter in the 1888 Victorian Murphy House, formerly known as Lark Creek Inn, is being written by chef Aaron Wright. Try menu items such as lamb fusilli, Alaskan halibut and vegetable rigatoni a la carte, or opt for the pri x fi xe menu. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7766, tavernatlarkcreek.com

YANKEE PIER American

This family-friendly, casual clam shack is harbored in a quaint house built in 1924. Known for beer-battered fi sh ‘n’ chips, clam chowder and tasty salads, Yankee Pier serves fresh seafood delivered daily from both coasts. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com

MILL VALLEY

BOO KOO Asian

Authentic Asian street food is now available for $10 or less. The restaurant offers options

for every eater—vegans, gluten-frees, vegetarians and carnivores alike. Menu items include chicken pho, vegan summer rolls, pad thai and five-spice pork satay, all made with organic, locally sourced veggies and proteins. 25 Miller Ave, 415.888.8303, eatbookoo.com

BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and the Chili-Lime “Brick” Chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food-style menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm, dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com

EXTREME PIZZA American Pizza by the slice or pie — including gluten-free options. Come up with your own creation or choose one

of the restaurant’s favorites, like the Mr. Pestato Head: homemade pesto sauce, potatoes, red onions, feta, fresh basil and mozzarella. 393 Miller Ave, 415.569.4134 , extremepizza.com

HARMONY Chinese

Enjoy a lighter take on Chinese at this restaurant, nestled in the Strawberry Village. The barbecue pork bun is fi lled with housemade roasted meat in a savory sauce, and fresh mussels are accented with red chili and Thai basil. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea. Be sure to check out the weekday lunch special for an excellent deal. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurant group.com

LA GINESTRA Italian A favorite family spot for over 30 years; getting a table or booth here can take awhile. While this old-school Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas,

veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar waitstaff s also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224, laginestramv.com

MILL VALLEY

BEERWORKS American Choose from a large selection of small plates, including king oyster mushrooms, roasted potatoes and grilled squid, and a small list of large portions like rabbit con fit. 173 Throckmorton Ave, 415.888.8218, mill valleybeerworks.com

NOURISH GRILL

American This restaurant for the Club at Harbor Point is situated on the waterfront and open to the public. Open for brunch, lunch and dinner, it serves classics like grilled shrimp, and an all-American clubhouse burger. 475 E Strawberry Dr, 415.381.4400, nourish.harbor-point.com

PIAZZA D’ANGELO

Italian It’s always a party at this longstanding hot spot. A great place to meet up with friends for a fresh plate of pasta, or to make some new friends at the bar. Chef Andrea Guilini, originally from Venice, is known for his creative, seasonal dishes like the stu ffed veal loin with wild mushrooms and house-made mozzarella. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com

PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian. Get a table by the window or on the outdoor deck for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Peruse the impressive selection of Italian

American Red Snapper

wines to accompany your rustic seasonal meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com

PRABH INDIAN KITCHEN Indian Owned and operated by the Singh family, this restaurant is dedicated to serving healthy, organic and sustainable food with gluten-free and vegan options. 24 Sunnyside Ave, 415.384.8241, prabh indiankitchen.com

ROBATA GRILL AND SUSHI Japanese Robata translates as “by the fi reside”; fittingly, food here can be cooked on an open fi re and served in appetizer-size portions to pass around the table. Or simply order your own sushi or entrée from the menu. 591 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.8400, robatagrill.com

SHORELINE COFFEE SHOP American Tucked away in a parking lot at Tam Junction, this coffee shop is a funky diner with a smalltown feel. Enjoy the mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast fare. 221 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.9085

SOL FOOD Puerto Rican

This Marin favorite has opened doors in Mill Valley, where they continue to serve up everyone’s favorite Puerto Rican cuisine. The line can get long, but the food is well worth it. 401 Miller Ave, 415.380.1986, solfoodrestaurant.com

SWEETWATER MUSIC HALL CAFE American O ffering breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, the menu includes brownbutter scrambled

eggs on avocado toast, crispy chicken sliders with gingery cabbage slaw and vegan Thai spring rolls with sweet and sour sauce. 19 Corte Madera Ave, 415.388.3850, sweet watermusichall.com

NOVATO

HILLTOP 1892 California

Situated on a historic estate in Novato with sweeping views, Hilltop 1892 offers classic favorites with a California flair. Open lunch through dinner, as well as Sunday brunch. 850 Lamont Ave, 415.893.1892, hilltop1892.com

RUSTIC BAKERY California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads and sandwiches are on the menu here. Try the Marin Melt — Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Point Reyes’ Toma cheeses grilled on honey whole wheat bread, served with dressed baby greens and crisp apple slices. 1407 Grant Ave, 415.878.4952, rusticbakery.com

TOAST American Sister to the popular Mill Valley location, Toast Novato features outdoor dining and contemporary architechture by Stanley Saitowitz. The spacious restaurant is ideal for large parties and families looking for a large plate of comfort food. 5800 Nave Dr, 415.382.1144, toastnovato.com

SAN ANSELMO

COMFORTS CAFE

Wish granted.

Terrestra | San Francisco | Mill Valley

in for breakfast, lunch, weekend brunch and offerings from the delicious deli selection. Be sure to try the Philly cheesesteak and Chinese chicken salad, both classics.

335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com

L’APPART RESTO

French Owners Bruno Denis and Olivier Souvestre of Le Garage fame offer a menu most Francophiles would be proud of, complete with items like roasted bone marrow and cassoulet. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.256.9884, lappartresto.com

VALENTI & CO. Italian

This bright and cozy space is the ideal environment for a sampling of authentic Italian cuisine from Chef Valenti, a Milanese transplant. Though Valenti sticks to his culinary roots, the dishes at his Marin restaurant make use of local ingredients. A seat at the vinobar offers a prime view of the open kitchen. 337 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.7800, valentico.com

SAN RAFAEL

RANGE CAFE American

With floor-to-ceiling windows positioned overlooking the grand Peacock Gap lawns, the Range Cafe is the perfect place to enjoy comforting American classics with an elegant twist. This inviting lunchtime cafe with its ice-cold lemonade and refreshing chardonnays makes a great dinner spot once the sun sets. 333 Biscayne Dr, 415.454.6450, rangecafe.net

SOL FOOD Puerto Rican

Fast becoming a Marin legend, Sol Food whips up traditional Puerto Rican dishes just like the ones owner Sol Hernandez grew up eating. Favorites include the bistec sandwich, mofongo and fried plantains, but anything tastes good with a dash of the eatery’s signature hot sauce, which is for sale by the bottle (as is the lemon-garlic salad dressing). 901 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765, solfoodrestaurant.com

VIN ANTICO American

This resurrected restaurant offers seasonal market-inspired cuisine like stone oven-baked fl atbreads, handmade pasta and organic salads. The kitchen is open to the dining room, so try to snag a seat at the chef’s counter. 881 Fourth St, 415.721.0600, vinantico.com

SAUSALITO

FAST FOOD FRANCAIS

French Owned and operated by the owners of Le Garage and L’Appart Resto, F3 serves brunch, lunch and dinner, all featuring “Frenchi fied” American comfort food. Sample a rotating menu including items like the Luxe burger (Diestel turkey, brie, lettuce and a fried egg topped with tru ffle aioli). Enjoy with a side of Brussels sprout chips or pomme dauphines (tater tots). 39 Caledonia St, 415.887.9047, eatf3.com

FENG NIAN Chinese

This spacious hangout has been a popular spot for wonton soup, pot stickers and daily specials for nearly two decades. For an indulgent treat, order the Szechwan crispy

RUBEN KALRA, MDRICHARD SHINAMAN, MD WILLIAM LONGTON, MD

The Fenix and the Gator

FENIX — MARIN’S very own supper club — has added front man chef Glenn “Gator” Thompson to the kitchen lineup. Thompson has a bit of a cult following throughout the Bay Area; he learned the tricks of the trade working under renowned chef Paul Bertolli at Oliveto, after which he made a solo impact at Alcatraces in Noe Valley, crafting a unique California/Cajun menu. During a series of endeavors south of the city — Gator’s Neo Soul Cafe, Dollie Marie’s, Gator’s Back Porch BBQ, Bayonne Southern Dining in San Jose and The Grill in San Mateo — the chef was said to be serving up some of the best seasonal barbecue around the bay. Now, Thompson brings his bold menu (which includes alligator sliders and jambalaya) to Fenix, where he can often be found chatting with diners about food and familial history. “I’ll put a healthy spin on a dish that a guest shares with me, name it after the ancestor who passed it down, and now we’re family,” says Gator. Try this blackened cat fi sh dish in the comfort of your kitchen, or head to Fenix to get your fare with a side of live music. fenixlive.com CALIN VAN PARIS

Blackened Catfish

SERVES 4

Ingredients

4 7-ounce catfish fillets

Your favorite blackening spice

4 ears sweet yellow corn

½ cup diced red bell pepper

½ cup diced green pepper

1 tablespoon minced garlic

10 chopped fresh basil leaves

¼ cup rice oil or regular olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

Salt and pepper

Italian parsley leaves

To Prepare

1 Preheat oven to 400°F. 2 Season catfish fillet with blackening spice, evenly coating both sides, and set aside. 3 Remove corn kernels from cob and place in a bowl. Add the diced peppers, garlic and basil; set aside. 4 Heat ½ of the oil in a large sauté pan. Sear the catfish on one side to a nice reddish brown color.

5 Flip over and place in an ovenproof pan. 6 Repeat until all fillets are seared on one side. 7 Place pan in preheated oven for about 20 minutes or until fish is cooked through.

8 Five minutes before catfish is done, heat remaining oil in a sauté pan. Sauté the corn mixture for about 5 minutes, adding butter, salt and pepper to taste. 9 Spread corn mixture on a serving platter. 1 Place fish on top, adding another sprinkling of corn mixture for color. Garnish with fresh Italian parsley leaves.

10

The San Rafael restaurant and music venue welcomes a new chef to the team.

calamari, honey-glazed walnut prawn or lemon chicken. Staying in? Feng Nian offers free delivery. Free delivery. 2650 Bridgeway, 415.331.5300, fengnian.com

LE GARAGE French

Escape tourist-fi lled Sausalito for an indulgent brunch right on the water. The atmosphere is animated with light French music (á la Amélie), and the much-adored croquemonsieur is under $10. Opt for indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistro sausalito.com

MURRAY CIRCLE

American Cavallo Point’s acclaimed restaurant, features local seasonal fare by executive chef Justin Everett, with pairings from an extensive wine list and tempting desserts. Don’t forget to visit Farley Bar for cocktails with a view. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com

POGGIO Italian A classic trattoria with comfortable neighborhood charm and destination-caliber cuisine. Executive chef Benjamin Balesteri creates delicious Northern Italian fare using fresh and local ingredients, including produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com

SEAFOOD PEDDLER

Seafood A great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. East and West Coast fi sh are flown in daily, and the recipes are adjusted to accommodate the freshest options. 303 Johnson St, 415.332.1492, seafoodpeddler.com

TASTE OF ROME Italian

This local landmark has evolved from a cafe into a full-service restaurant offering pasta, pizza, sandwiches and salad in an authentic Italian atmosphere — just fi nd the green, white and red awning

VOTE for YOUR FAVORITE

Restaurant in Marin

Cheesecake at Vin Antico in San Rafael

and you’re there. Enjoy live music most Fridays and Saturdays. 1000 Bridgeway, 415.332.7660, taste-of-rome.com

TASTE OF THE HIMALAYAS Himalayan Born in the foothills of the Himalayas, siblings Pemba, Dawa and Pasang serve up favorites from Nepal, Tibet and India. The restaurant focuses on blending di fferent cultures and cuisines: spices from India, spirituality from Tibet, hospitality from Nepal and the freshness of ingredients from California. 2633 Bridgeway, 415.331.1335, himalayaca.com

TOMMY’S WOK

Chinese Scrupulously fresh ingredients, free-range chicken and

traditional dishes make Tommy’s Wok a top contender for ful fi lling your next Chinese food craving with a nice atmosphere for dining in and the perfect takeout for a night at home. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.332.5818, tommyswok.com

THE TRIDENT Seafood Set in a turn-of-thecentury building constructed in 1898, this waterfront restaurant is a shoe-in for date night. Executive chef James Montejano — known for supporting local farmers, fi shermen and organic food producers — prepares dishes like Sugar Spice Grilled Loch Duart Salmon and Trident Cioppino. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, thetridentsausalito.com

WELLINGTON’S California British transplant Jeremy John and his wife, Jill, have created an expansive (2,400-square-foot) wine bar with a homey feel including comfy leather couches, board games, views of the bay and a worldly cellar featuring a ffordable bottles and special reserves. The menu offers wines by the glass for $5 to $20 and tasting fl ights of any three wines for $12. 300 Turney St, 415.331.9463, wellingtonswine.com

TIBURON

CAPRICE California Book the private party room for large groups, or just relax in this romantic dinner spot. Take advantage of the restaurant’s well-priced three-course dinners

• JOHNNY DOUGHNUTS

Breakfast These fresh doughnuts are handmade in small batches using dairy from local farms to create both the dough and fillings. Stop by the shop or have the food trcuk come to you. 1617 Fourth Street, 415.450.1866, johnnydoughnuts.com

San Francisco keep this place busy, so make reservations or arrive early. 41 Main St, 415.789.5123, ginzasushi-tiburon.com

GUAYMAS Mexican Situated right next to the Tiburon ferry terminal on the waterfront, the touchit-you’re-so-close city views and outdoor seating make it a great place to bring visitors on a warm summer night. Happy hour is 4 to 7 p.m. M-F. 5 Main St, 415.435.6300, guaymasrestaurant.com

MILANO Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this familyowned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta and friendly service. Favorites like the cheesy garlic bread and pesto pasta keep customers coming back. 1 Blackfield Dr, 415.388.9100, tiburonmilano.com

tablecloths, is a local favorite. Popular items include scallops, ribeye steak, a beef burger and traditional crab cakes with jalapeño dipping sauce. 38 Main St, 415.435.3594

SAM’S

ANCHOR CAFE

American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Enjoy transfat-free calamari, fresh fi sh, seasonal salads and pastas. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com

SERVINO RISTORANTE

for less than $25, and don’t miss Prime Rib Mondays. 2000 Paradise Dr, 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com

DON ANTONIO TRATTORIA Italian

Located in Tiburon’s historic Ark Row, this trattoria offers authentic Italian cuisine in a quaint setting. The menu includes traditional courses with selections such as chicken piccata, organic roasted rack of lamb and housemade pesto. 114 Main St, 415.435.0400, donantoniotrattoria.com

GINZA Japanese Whether you go for the volcano roll or indulge in the eightcourse Omakase meal, the fresh ingredients coupled with the tremendous view of

MING’S Chinese Hospitable service and large portions are just two of the reasons this family-run business is a favorite. Try the sautéed mango chicken with rice and don’t miss the lunch specials. 1550 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4312

NEW MORNING CAFE

American Sit outside or indoors at this casual cafe. On a sunny morning, tables will be fi lled with locals enjoying the sun and extensive breakfast menu; lunch served as well. 1696 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4315

SALT & PEPPER

American This sunfi lled, one-room restaurant, featuring hardwood floors and blue-checkered

Italian Executive Chef Massimo Covello comes to the kitchen via Frantoio and Piazza D’Angelo; here, he cooks up an array of rustic Italian dishes, including house-made pastas, wood oven pizzas and seasonal specialties. A member of Marin Organic and one of Marin’s fi rst eateries to become certi fied as a green business, Servino uses fresh, local and organic ingredients whenever possible. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com

TIBURON TAVERN

California The atmosphere here is truly enchanting, with two outdoor patios, two indoor fi replaces and candlelit tables at dinner. No item is more than $25, including the steak, with entrées falling in the $14 to $18 range. Happy hour is 4 to 6:30 p.m. M–F. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, tiburontavern.com

Chocolate Vanilla Cream Bismarks

WEST MARIN

THE LUNCH BOX

American Spending the day on the coast? Stop by this modern day mom and pop deli for some beach bites. In addition to deli offerings, Lunch Box offers a full Mexican menu on Thursday and Friday evenings, with recipes from the chef’s hometown of Colima (Stinson). 15 Calle del Mar, Ste 2, 415.868.8884, lunchboxmarin.com

NICK’S COVE American

Large windows provide picturesque views of Tomales Bay and Hog Island. The 130seat eatery’s menu consists of fresh local seafood, oysters and bounty from nearby West Marin farms (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com

OSTERIA STELLINA

California The menu is Italian-inspired and features local, organic ingredients. If you’re looking for something unusual try the goat shoulder, a favorite of tourists and locals alike (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, osteriastellina.com

PARKSIDE CAFE

American Perfect for a sit down, alfresco meal or for grabbing a burger to enjoy on the beach. Choose from an array of organic, locally grown produce, artisan meats and wild seafood (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com

PINE CONE

china and homemade curtains complement the eclectic but homey menu featuring local fare. (Point Reyes Station). 60 Fourth St, 415.663.1536, pineconediner.com

RANCHO NICASIO

American Known for live music and an extensive menu featuring everything from Dungeness crab cakes to the Garlic and Rosemary Lamb Medallions dish, Rancho Nicasio is open seven days a week. M–F. 1 Old Rancheria (Nicasio) Rd, 415.662.2219, ranchonicasio.com

SAND DOLLAR

American Originally built from three barges in Tiburon in 1921, the Sand Dollar Restaurant wa s floated to Stinson that same year. Enjoy live music along with barbecued local oysters and New England clam chowder. The sunny deck is great in the afternoon (Stinson). 3458 Shoreline Hwy, 415.868.0434, stinson beachrestaurant.com

SIR & STAR AT THE OLEMA California

The historic inn has reopened as a roadhouse-style restaurant featuring rustic decor and a delicious yet a ffordable menu. Try the housemade bread and honey butter, the kale Caesar or take the plunge and sample the entire menu — the majority of items are $20 or less (Olema).

10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.663.1034, sirandstar.com

DINER

American You ca n fi nd this ultimate neighborhood diner just off he main road. Vintage

For more local restaurant listings, visit us online at marinmagazine. com/dine

On the Scene

MARIN SHAKESPEARE GALA The Marin Shakespeare Company celebrated its 25th season with a May 31 gala at Dominican University. During the event it was announced that an anonymous $1 million donation had been received.

HOSPITAL FOUNDATION GALA The hospital foundation held its annual gala May 17 in Sausalito, raising more than $900,000. About 600 black-tie guests enjoyed dinner, dancing, drinks and music.

SNAPSHOTS FROM SPECIAL EVENTS IN MARIN AND SAN FRANCISCO EDITED BY DANIEL JEWETT

SEAN MIRKOVICH (MARIN SHAKESPEARE)

• NATIONAL CHARITY LEAGUE Girls from the 2014 class of the Marin chapter of the National Charity League were honored May 4 for amassing more than 12,000 collective volunteer hours benefiting Marin charities.

•

Lucas McClure, Ann Brebner and Marty Winter

• MARIN GENERAL

Dodi Friedenberg, Mike and Sharon Stone and Jon Friedenberg

Paul Anderson and Dana Cilmi

Andrea Schultz, Jud Goldsmith and Nancee Rubenstein

DINE out

Deals on Meals

Enjoy local restaurants and save 30 percent on meals. Check out the participating restaurants in our “Deals on Meals” section and experience big savings. Spend only $35 for a dining certificate worth $50. Simply go to marinmagazine.com/dineout to purchase a dining certificate from a restaurant in this section and we will mail it to you. Try a new restaurant or purchase a certificate for an old favorite. A perfect gift for any occasion. Limited supply each month.

DEALS ON MEALS

Dine local — save big time!

Take a Taste of the South this Summer with new dishes from Chef Bob like Fried Green Tomatoes, Roasted Poblano Chile Relleno, Shrimp & Sweet Corn Risotto, and Applewood Smoked Pork Shoulder. Sunday BBQ Special and Daily Happy Hour from 4:30-7pm. Vegetarian and Gluten-Free Options.

Brick & Bottle 55 Tamal Vista Blvd 415.924.3366 Corte Madera, CA brickandbottle.com

Il Fornaio award-winning specialties include house-made pastas, wood-fired pizza, authentic risotto, and rotisserie meats, along with artisan cocktails and a Wine Spectator award-winning wine list. Each month, a special regional dinner menu is featured. A perfect location for any celebration and groups of all sizes!

Il Fornaio 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr 415.927.4400 Corte Madera, CA ilfornaio.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner and Weekend Breakfast. RangeCafe Bar and Grill, located on the course at Peacock Gap Golf Club, offers a delicious array of dining options to satisfy the whole family. All items are freshly prepared and served in a relaxed and inviting environment.

RangeCafe Bar and Grill

333 Biscayne Drive 415.454.6450 San Rafael, CA rangecafe.net bar

YOU OUGHTA ROBATA! In Japanese, Robata means “by the fireside” and refers to the grill-style cooking of northern Japanese fishermen. Our menu offers traditional as well as contemporary fare. Over 25 premium sakes. Come see why we’ve been Marin’s favorite Japanese restaurant for over 30 years.

Robata Grill & Sushi 591 Redwood Hwy. 415.381.8400 Mill Valley, CA robatagrill.com

FROM TOURS AND MAKEOVERS TO DECORATIVE DETAILS AND REALTOR INSIGHTS

BY LAURA HILGERS • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

IT SAYS SOMETHING about how much time Melissa Cohen was spending with realtor Jim Fraser that he was the fi rst person to know she was in labor. “I was on the phone with him, talking about putting a bid in for this house,” says Melissa, “and I said, ‘Jim, I think I’m having contractions.’ ”

It was April 20, 2013. Melissa hung up, called her husband, Andy, and rushed to the hospital, where two things happened in rapid order overnight: 1. Their second daughter, Alexa, was born, and 2. They learned their bid was successful.

If it seems like everything unfolded at breakneck pace, think again. The Cohens, who had outgrown their San Francisco apartment, looked at more than 50 houses over a twoyear period. Jim Fraser drove Melissa — and usually her older daughter, Taylor — all over Marin, as Melissa’s belly grew.

Just before her due date, they found their dream house: a newly built Mill Valley Craftsman with a big, open kitchen; good indoor-outdoor flow for children and entertaining; and easy freeway access for Andy’s hedge fund job in the city. There wasn’t much of a yard, but as owners they remedied that quickly, turning a hillside into a lush lawn and play area, with the help of contractor Rob Rainsford. “In the end, when they saw what they wanted,” says Fraser, “they just put the pedal to the metal.”

The house, with its open, airy great room that spills out onto a view of Richardson Bay, was worth the wait. The room includes a crisp white kitchen, dominated by a square, fl amed granite island, which is the focal point for the young family. And at the far end of the kitchen, Melissa and Andy have added a playful touch: a wall covered in gray-blue

chalkboard paint, which is echoed by a dining room wall in the same color.

The dining room holds one of the only pieces to have survived from their apartment days, a long mahogany wood table. To fi ll the rest of the house, they enlisted interior designer Jolene Lindner, who helped create a stylish and kid-friendly living room, with an Oly “Hannah” chair, Moroccan white leather pouf, cowhide bench and Restoration Hardware couch, upholstered in outdoor fabric to handle sippy cup spills.

Melissa took her time making decorating decisions, sending back four dining room rugs, for example, before settling on a cowhide one from One Kings Lane. “I go over and over decisions,” says Melissa, “so that at the end of the day, I’m happy with the one I’ve made.” Which pretty much sums up how the Cohens feel about their house. m

Opposite page: The great room, kitchen and chalkboard wall. This page, clockwise from top left: Kitchen barstools; the living room fireplace; the backyard and decks; the dining room; a backyard chair; Melissa and Andy with their daughters; the master bedroom.

Senior Marketing Consultant

415.381.7688 | m.robinson@pacbell.net CalBRE #00609415 location!

Debuting this summer at the center of downtown Mill Valley is “Throckmorton Village,” 11 modern, luxurious condominiums and townhome residences designed by renowned architect Robert Hatfield. With homes ranging in size from approximately 680 to 2,780 square feet, “Throckmorton Village” offers a contemporary lifestyle in the heart of the Village, positioned just steps from shopping, restaurants, night life and transportation.

Mill Valley is an eclectic, diverse tapestry of arts, culture and culinary delights. Whether you choose to live in the townhomes or single level units of “Throckmorton Village,” you will enjoy the prime location and vibrant community of this Southern Marin enclave.

MARCUS ROBINSON

This large, well-appointed home has 4 bedrooms/3.5 baths, a family room, den, home office/loft area and separate artist’s studio. Fabulous kitchen with built-in breakfast area and sliders out to the deck. Attached two-car garage and off-street parking. Near Mill Valley schools with easy access to town, the beach, freeway and trails.

BELL

mill vallEY, california

I was pleased to represent the seller of this charming home in Tam Valley. Beautifully remodeled with refinished hardwood floors, freshly painted interior and exterior. New stainless steel appliances and sink in the kitchen as well as new lighting. Extra large deck off of family room, great for entertaining. Beautifully landscaped.

TAMARA FISHER

415.871.7737

#01376345

N. Vernal Avenue, Mill Valley

Private & peaceful, this spacious, 4bd/3.5ba home built by Weiss highlights views of Mt. Tam from every room. Main level features an open floor plan with large living/dining area. Lower level has a huge family room/ guest suite. Sunny decks perfect for entertaining.

$1,885,000 Rita Gatlin 415.254.7881

West Brooke Drive, Novato Price Reduction! Elegant & spacious, gated estate located near the desirable Wildhorse Valley. Over .5 acre lot, guest house with garage, pool & play area. Main home with grand foyer is remodeled throughout with top of the line finishes and designer touches.

13WestBrooke.com $1,775,000 Team McNair 415.828.1584

Sycamore Avenue, Mill Valley

Just Sold! This beautifully re-designed 3bd/2ba home in Tamalpais/Sycamore Park, is nestled on one of the most charming tree-lined streets in Mill Valley. Stylish and chic, it was thoughtfully re-built in 2012. Close to town and schools, this home offers the best of Mill Valley.

$1,700,000 JoAnne Berlin 415.847.0301

Loma Linda, San Rafael

A circular drive welcomes you to this remodeled, 3bd/2.5ba, 1-level home with sprawling backyard. The marble kitchen, family room and master all open to the patio and spacious lawn, creating wonderful indoor/outdoor living. Convenient to everything!

12LomaLinda.com $1,250,000

Lindy Emrich 415.717.4005

Lupine Circle, Novato

Price Reduction! Elegant, 4bd/4ba town home fashioned after a high-end wine country estate. Completely rebuilt from the ground up with no expenses spared. Almost 2800sf of luxurious magnificence! Half way between San Francisco and the wine country.

$1,150,000

Patricia Gross 415.328.0763

Greenwood Cove Drive, Tiburon

Spectacular waterfront residence situated on one of the best sites in Greenwood Cove. Spacious 1-level condo with 2078+/sf of living space, 3bd/2.5ba, gourmet kitchen, high ceilings, and meticulously maintained throughout.

6AGreenwoodCove.com $950,000

Suzanne Shelhart 415.613.0100

311 Edgewood is a sophisticated, mid-century, 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom home with upgraded kitchen and bathrooms, and hardwood floors. The open floor plan is spacious and bright and allows for lovely views of the Marin Hills. Lush gardens and the location at the end of a private drive next to open space provide the house with a sense of tranquility. Yet, it is only a quick 10 mins. to Mill Valley via the Dipsea Stairs. Crisp clean lines, light filled rooms, lush yard with level area, patios and decks. A perfect place to call home.

Elegant, Spacious Tiburon Haven

Upon entering this fabulous home you will be thrilled with the amount of natural light and the views of Richardson Bay, Belvedere Lagoon, San Francisco and the towers of the Golden Gate Bridge from almost every room. Located in a quiet, prestigious neighborhood this house offers a versatile floor plan of five bedrooms including a master suite with sitting area; four and a half bathrooms; an office retreat with fireplace and private deck; two spacious family rooms; a formal living room with fireplace and wet bar; formal dining room; and a chef’s kitchen with sunny breakfast nook all providing ample room for a family and gracious entertaining. This sun drenched property with secluded pool, multi-level decks, gazebo and lawn area provide tremendous outdoor living space. Close to award winning schools, shopping, dining and everything you are looking for in Tiburon living.

at

Brand New Construction in San Anselmo

This 2014 contemporary Craftsman, built to the highest standards of quality. Featuring an open floor plan capturing the idyllic indoor/outdoor lifestyle with inviting arches. The incredible great-room boasts a carefully designed custom kitchen with white shaker cabinets, built-in hood, farmhouse sink, Thermador appliances and a blend of Carrera Marble and Caesarstone counters. The kitchen, great room and large deck are connected by doors of glass creating the indoor/outdoor main living areas. Formal living room with fireplace, formal dining room 4BR/4.5BA and den/office. Located near award-winning schools, and downtown San Anselmo.

offered at $2,695,000

Paul Cingolani (415) 726-9630

Beautiful Gated Ross Estate

Single level, gated estate with detached guest cottage located at the end of a cul-de-sac. Four bedrooms, three bathrooms with over 3,000 square feet of total living space. This home includes an updated kitchen, remodeled bathrooms, living room, dining room and large office. The spectacular grounds of this home are accented by large stone, custom paver patios, beautiful gardens and Pebble Tec pool. Perfect location close to the Branson School, award winning K-8 Ross School, Ross Common and downtown San Anselmo.

offered at $2,395,000

RobeRt bRadley (415) 314-1314

Magnificent Custom Novato Estate

This expansive luxury estate in one of Novato’s finest gated neighborhoods was built to the highest standard by the original owner / builder and extensively remodeled, expanded and rebuilt in 2007. Approx. 6,985 sq. ft., 9BR/6BA, 4 fireplaces, office / library, oversized living, formal dining & family rooms, breakfast room, media room, large downstairs separate guest quarters / game room, fabulous chef’s kitchen.The private 1.8 acre parcel offers peaceful and breathtaking views. www.BradleyFineHomes.com

offered at $2,195,000

Jim aRmstRong (415) 606-6864

Breathtaking Views of Four Counties

Enjoy commanding, panoramic views of the bay and hills -- See from San Francisco to Mt. Diabloto Mt. Tam -- from this exceptionally dramatic 4BR/3BA, contemporary craftsmanstyle home on a private lane. Fabulous for indoor and outdoor entertaining. The great room with chef’s kitchen, living room and dining rooms all have spectacular views and open to the beautiful Pau Lope deck and adjacent gazebo and spa. Master bedroom with fireplace, views, deck and luxury bath. 3 fireplaces. 3 car garage plus covered parking for 3 cars.

offered at $1,999,000

Claudia HamPe (415) 383-3820

Absolutely stunning horse property! Beautiful custom home on over two acres in Point Reyes. Three stall barn with office/tack room. Panoramic views, spacious, bright, airy contemporary design, kitchen with granite counter tops, huge Viking range. Tile floors, two fireplaces, large office/den, and attached garage. Close to a million dollars in additions & improvements including energy efficient solar panels. Located near downtown, beaches and hiking trails.

offered at $1,760,000

(415) 259-9565

This beautifully cared for classic Greenbrae home offers two levels of open floor plan that will accommodate varied needs. Six bedrooms, three baths, two family rooms, living/dining room with wall of glass to take in the views of the bay plus deck access, newly refinished hardwood floors on the main level are just few of features of this home. Award winning schools, close proximity to dining, shopping and transit. www.10vialapaz.com

offered at $1,595,000

eva benarD (415) 497-5702

This prestigious Pacheco Valle home nestled in the trees offers privacy, views and plenty of sunshine. There are four bedrooms and two and one-half baths, including a luxurious recently remodeled master suite with a walk in closet and spa-like master bath. Don’t miss the new hardwood floors and recently remodeled kitchen and baths. Other amenities include a hot tub, wine cellar and lots of outdoor entertaining areas. You must see this gorgeous home!

offered at $1,375,000

(415) 272-9266

This spacious one bedroom, one and one-half bath condo has been extensively remodeled. Kitchen with granite countertops, custom cabinets and stainless steel appliances. Large living room, dining room combo with beautifully tiled fireplace opens to the expansive view deck. Remodeled bathrooms with designer tile flooring and wainscoting, plus granite counters, Restoration Hardware fixtures and a deep soaking tub. Andersen doors and windows. Convenient location near walking/biking paths, transportation and shopping. All with low HOA fees in this smaller complex of only 10 units.

offered at $519,000

Deborah SolvaSon (415) 519-3555

Martin Sanz

Custom Home & Horse Property in Point Reyes

Stunning Views from Greenbrae

Greenbrae Living at its Finest

Carol Matney

85 West Shore Road, Belvedere Stunning waterfront home featuring 180° views from San Francisco to the Golden Gate Bridge and west to Mt. Tam. This 5 Br/4 ½ Ba home has been stylishly remodeled and welcomes you with sounds of the bay, breathtaking light, and water views. The living room features vaulted ceilings, whitewashed ash hardwood floors, and a wood burning fireplace. The large master suite features vaulted ceilings, new carpets, a wood burning fireplace, and French doors to the Bay deck. Enjoy sailing, rowing, and paddle boarding from your boat dock, or launch your tender from your automatic

6 Midden Lane

Call for Price

Elegant traditional home, grand double entry doors, San Francisco views, elegant dining room with hardwood floors and high ceilings. Living room with romantic fireplace. The ‘cook’s kitchen’ opens to the family room. Five bedrooms and five full baths, 5400+ sq ft. Master bedroom includes spa tub and fireplace. Connects to the Ring Mountain Preserve.

33 Mark Terrace

Call for Price

A long private driveway leads you to this home where you will enjoy sweeping views of the Bay, downtown San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge and Sausalito. This exquisite custom home is situated on a very private 2/3 acre lot, postcard views from the swimming pool.

A. Dean Jones | 415.609.9000 | adean.jones @ sothebysrealty.com

95 gorgeous acres with a breathtaking view of the Pacific Coast, this 5 BD, 5.5 BA home combines modern and classic Tuscan styles with vaulted ceilings, wood beams, Italian roof tiles, and a 3 story stone tower.

CoastRidgeBigSurEstate.com $32,000,000

Stunningly renovated Italian style mansion with views of GGB, Palace of Fine Arts, & Alcatraz. 16,000 sq ft, 7 BD, 8.5 BA, fabulous reception rooms & exquisite architectural detailing. Garage and parking within the gate.

SanFranciscoShowcase2008.com $24,800,000

Extraordinary design with views of Angel Island, GGB, and SF skyline. Soaring 36 foot ceilings in great room, cascading granite 10 ft waterfall, intricate woodwork, multi-layered slate roof, 4 BD, 4 BA, & electronic gate.

TiburonRidgeEstate.com $7,500,000

This timeless European estate features 20 acres, 10,000 sq ft main house w/ 7 BD, 5 full and 2 half bath, a 3 BD, 4 BA guest house, a vineyard, expansive lawns, an olive grove, and a pool with space for outdoor entertaining.

WineCountryFineHome.com $10,950,000

This rare 1 acre waterfront double lot has unobstructed views of SF, GGB, Sausalito, Mt. Tam and the Bay. The site is mostly level and at water’s edge, with existing boat house & dock. The price includes 2 parcels.

SanFranciscoFineHomes.com $9,988,000

One of Belvedere’s finest homes, with views of GGB and Bay Bridge, SF and East Bay. Grand cascading stairway, a central domed skylight, stately colonnades, 3 BD, 4 full and 3 half baths, library/4th bedroom and elevator.

BelvedereVista.com $8,888,000

On a breathtaking location, this Mediterranean style home offers panoramic views of GGB, Sausalito, and SF, 5 BD, 3.5 BA, 4 marble fireplaces, view terraces, a penthouse master suite with fireplace and a private garden.

BelvedereVista.com $4,800,000

Beautiful 5 BD, 4 BA home with spacious entertainment areas indoor and out, luxury master suite, wraparound view deck with boat lift, solar, fenced and gated private courtyard and amazing views of Sausalito, GGB, and SF.

BelvedereShores.com $3,988,000

Lovingly renovated waterfront home offering 3 BD, 3 BA, a designer's kitchen, high ceilings & fireplace. Approx. 800 sq ft deck on the Bay, wide plank white Oak hardwood floors, full floor master suite with private terrace.

This renovated Tuscan Villa on 9 acres has 3 BD, 2.5 BA, a chef’s kitchen, master suite with fireplace, living room with high ceiling and fireplace, terraces for entertaining, orchards, a horse barn, 3-car garage + 4 carports.

WineCountryFineHome.com $2,880,000

This superb 4 BD, 3.5 BA home features high ceilings, limestone fireplace, & white oak floors. Wall-to-wall Nana folding doors invite indoor/outdoor entertaining; waterfront deck with boat dock and a boat lift.

BelvedereShores.com $6,500,000

Beautiful home on a private park-like setting with views of San Francisco, Golden Gate Bridge and Bay Bridge. 3 BR, 3 BA, pool & hot tub, lush landscaping, wall-to-wall windows, 2 fireplaces.

SanFranciscoFineHomes.com $3,950,000

Olivia Hsu Decker

Founder and Co-Owner Decker Bullock Sotheby’s International Realty

Private Line 415.435.1600

Private Fax 415.384.4011

Olivia @ SanFranciscoFineHomes.com www.SanFranciscoFineHomes.com

Masterfully designed and perfectly located, private and world-class gated estate with four bedrooms, four and one-half baths, and stunning views of San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge, Sausalito and Mt. Tamalpais from nearly every room. Designed by David Williams and exceptionally built by Bunnell Builders with beautiful finishes. Lush landscaping and a remarkable glass enclosed portico lead to a striking entrance and foyer with grand staircase. Main level formal living room with fireplace and French doors leading to the view-side deck, formal dining room with built-in cabinetry, family room with fireplace, and chef ‘s kitchen with built-in curved banquet that spans the large family eating area, bay views, and well appointed butler’s pantry. Upper level comprises an elegant master suite with lavish bath, and two additional en suite bedrooms. Lower level includes a fourth bedroom currently used as an office and gym with steam shower. Beautifully designed gardens, wraparound decks, and a level lawn area complete the grounds. For the Discerning Buyer–elegant, sophisticated and truly enchanting

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Circa 1926, gated Ross compound with grand residence of French Normandy stature, paved circular drive, and approximately two acres of large level lawns and gardens, terraces, patios and sparkling pool and spa. In the main residence, stunning sunlit kitchen, butler’s pantry, breakfast room and adjacent family room, majestic living room with curved balcony, palatial dining room with adjacent terrace, and beautiful master suite with fireplace, stunning bath and spiral staircase to the private study with full bath. Six en-suite bedrooms, including the master suite, on the upper levels. Gym and basketball court, theater, private pool and spa, cabana, elevator, five enclosed garages and two separate outdoor kitchen and barbecue areas with bar, built-in seating and fireplaces. Six bedrooms, seven and one-half baths in the main residence, separate two-story guest quarters with kitchen, fireplace and sunny patio, separate one-bedroom garage apartment and separate studio, in the heart of Ross…

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Private, park-like resort setting, and sited on possibly the best water-level parcel in Belvedere, this stunning contemporary, designed by award-wining architects, weaves along its approximately 220 feet of shoreline, fully integrated with the surrounding natural and man-made beauty. Facing due south with unobstructed view-expanse spanning the Mount Tamalpais ridgeline to the west through the Bay Bridge to the east, and across the Richardson and San Francisco Bays to the Sausalito harbor, the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco skyline, and located on approx. 1.2 acres with approx. 7,900 square feet of exquisitely finished and view-oriented interior space, the main residence comprises five large bedrooms and five and one-half baths, and the separate guest house offers an additional two bedrooms and one bath. With blazing sunrises and sunsets and golden moonrises reflecting on the Bay waters, the calls of the seals and sea gulls and the graceful pelicans gliding by your windows, and the ever-changing living-mural of sea life for your living room, this destination-home sits alone in its class at the end of the street and the end of the search… $14,695,000

Private, park-like resort setting, and sited on possibly the best water-level parcel in Belvedere, this stunning contemporary, designed by award-wining architects, weaves along its approximately 220 feet of shoreline, fully integrated with the surrounding natural and man-made beauty. Facing due south with unobstructed view-expanse spanning the Mount Tamalpais ridgeline to the west through the Bay Bridge to the east, and across the Richardson and San Francisco Bays to the Sausalito harbor, the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco skyline, and located on approx. 1.2 acres with approx. 7,900 square feet of exquisitely finished and view-oriented interior space, the main residence comprises five large bedrooms and five and one-half baths, and the guest offers an additional two and bath. blazing sunrises and sunsets and golden moonrises reflecting the waters, the calls of the seals and sea gulls and the graceful pelicans gliding by your windows, and the ever-changing living-mural of sea life for your living room, this destination-home sits alone in its class at the end of the street and the end of the search…

REDUCED

Sutro’s Cli ff House

A Marin artist’s rendition of a San Francisco landmark. BY

JIM WOOD

THE CLIFF HOUSE, near the entrance to San Francisco Bay, has had many lives. Originally built in 1858 from the lumber of a schooner that ran aground nearby, it was rebuilt and added onto in 1863. Then it burned down in 1894. In 1896, Adolph Sutro opened it as a seven-story Victorian chateau (seen above), the same year he started construction on the nearby Sutro Baths. Sutro’s version of the Cliff ouse survived the 1906 earthquake — but burned to the ground a year later. It was rebuilt in basically its current con figuration two years after

the fi re. Meanwhile, the Sutro Baths, which included six indoor swimming pools, a museum and an ice rink, burned down in 1966. In 1977, the National Park Service purchased the Cliff ouse and it became part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. For nearly 40 years, the Hountalas Family, who oversaw an extensive renovation of the landmark restaurant in 2004, has operated the facility. Through it all, the Cliff ouse has remained a popular destination for locals and tourists. The above painting, by Belvedere artist Alan Maley (1930–1995), was acquired in 1979 by Joseph and Maryann Perry of Novato. m

OSKA 153 Throckmorton Avenue Mill Valley 415 381 1144 millvalley.oska.com

OSKA 310 Center Street Healdsburg 707 431 7717 healdsburg.oska.com 2130 2130 Fillmore Street San Francisco 415 563 1717 www.2130-sf.com Beverly Hills