DISCOVER THE CHARM OF THE OLD WORLD
EXPLORE THE MANY SIDES OF EUROPE
There is no better way to experience Europe than with Celebrity Cruises ®. From delicious cuisine to diverse cultures, every region of Europe has something different to offer when you take a European cruise with us. We have a wide variety of itineraries to choose from, so you’re sure to find the perfect vacation. You can enjoy the sun-kissed beaches and irresistible food of the Mediterranean, or explore the dramatic landscapes and natural wonders of Scandinavia. Tour castles and monuments in the British Isles. If adventure is your goal, you can kayak through ancient waterways in the Norwegian fjords, or get close to active volcanoes in Iceland. Can’t get enough of ancient ruins? See the remains of Pompeii in Italy. Our newest ship, Celebrity Beyond SM will be sailing these waters in 2023, along with six stunning ships including our other Edge series. With new itineraries starting at 7 nights and the most overnight stays in 11 dynamic cities--you'll find exploring these parts as luxurious as the ship you'll be sailing on.
Renowned for its perennially pleasant climate, Santa Barbara is a top destination for many types of travelers — and winter is one of the best times to visit.
ED MOSES
Robert Green Fine Arts presents a splendid and dramatic body of work by Post War World II Abstract Expressionist painter Ed Moses (1926-2018). A thoughtfully curated exhibition from the Ed Moses Estate with colorful large scale, powerful, gestural canvases. In a career that spanned 7 decades, Ed Moses was one of the pioneers of the Abstract Expressionist movement on the west coast. Moses’ work is in most major museums in the United States and he had his retrospective exhibit in 1996 at the LA Contemporary Museum.
t Green Fine Ar ts, established 1969, exhibits primarily painterly, abstract expressive work by painters that thoroughly take advantage of the sensually evocative nature of color and form.
Departments
WINTER 2022
FIELD NOTES
19 California Living
A beginner’s guide to cross country skiing, entertainment and plant identifying apps, Disneyland updates and more. 26
Road Trip
California’s Coast has many dog-friendly hot spots with offleash areas and an abundance of hotels that not only accept pets, but give them special treatment. 28
Dose of Aloha
Oahu newest offerings plus must-know details about Kauai’s Kokee State Park. 32
Interview
Marty Griffin, age 102, has been widely honored for his lifetime of environmental work and help ing preserve numerous sensitive wildlife habitats in Sonoma, Marin County and beyond.
61 Planner
Annual winter events around the Greater Bay Area. 72 Eat
An abundance of farms, ranches and artisanal producers make California a year-round food basket. 78
Local Getties
Our picks for best hotels, restaurants and activities in the Tahoe area, along with readers’ choice favorites. 82
Yesterday
The “social salon” of the paddlewheeled steamer China has been carefully restored to its 1870s glamour and stands on sturdy new pilings in Belvedere.
Anywhere in Hawaii!
Anything après-ski related — hot tubs and génépy!
Local Getaways
CALIFORNIA
Favorite winter getaway?
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mimi Towle PUBLISHER Nikki C. Wood
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Kasia Pawlowska
DIGITAL EDITOR Jessica Gliddon
Park City, Utah: It’s the ultimate Christmas town.
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Paula Phommounivong
Mendocino on a rainy weekend!
ART
ART DIRECTOR Lisa Hilgers
PRODUCTION MANAGER +ADVERTISING ART MANAGER Alex French
A luxurious rental in Lake Tahoe with an outdoor hot tub overlooking the mountains.
Catching up with friends over brunch at Temecula’s Swing Inn Cafe.
A staycation with cozy rain outside and hot toddies by a fire inside, with my favorite guy.
A cozy cabin in the woods — murder not included.
A ski in, ski out lodge at Palisades and evening Jacuzzi looking at the lake.
Warmth and sunshine in Hawaii.
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Meredith Barberich
MARKETING MANAGER Mikalia Wood
SALES ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Leah Bronson
SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Lesley Ceasar ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Kelly Wagner
I’m a mountain girl and skier, so anywhere with good snow — ideally North Lake Tahoe!
Southern California for golf with friends and family.
Any ski cabin big enough to hold friends!
Hawaii — nothing like beating the cold with a warm, tropical getaway to the islands. Sitting beachside at the Hyatt Incline Village fire pit with the family.
SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Sharon Coleman ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Jessica Hamilton
SALES CONSULTANT Michele Kuhns
Arizona to visit my family.
ADMINISTRATION
OPERATIONS
Nikki N. Wood
CONTROLLER Maeve Walsh
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS
Mine is definitely Lake Tahoe. Staying at Brockway Springs in Kings Beach and ski ing at Northstar or Palisades Tahoe.
Lotus Abrams, Lynda Balslev, Michael Bass, Jeanne Cooper, Catherine Toth Fox, Kier Holmes, Deborah Passin, Matthew Poole, Anne-Christine Strugnell, Jim Wood, Bekah Wright, Ann Wycoff
CO-FOUNDERS: Nikki N. Wood, Nikki C. Wood, Mimi Towle
Volume 1, Issue 4 Local Getaways is published in Marin County by 270 Media LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright 2022. Reproduction of Local Getaways content is prohibited without the expressed written consent of Local Getaways magazine. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned.
Local Getaways reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the audience or that is in questionable taste. Local Getaways is a quarterly publication and mailed directly to homes and distributed through hotels in the greater Bay Area. Local Getaways, 4000 Bridgeway Ste 105, Sausalito, CA 94965. For subscriptions go to localgetaways.com/subscribe.
Turn up the radiance this winter! Light sculptures by six artists illuminate our spacious galleries, inviting you to connect and play in their glow. Don’t miss this wondrous seasonal expansion of the Exploratorium’s exhibits on light, including new works and returning favorites.
EXPLORATORIUM.EDU/GLOW | PIER 15, SF BUY TICKETS
Welcome to Winter 2022!
PUBLISHER Winter is one of my favorite times of the year. I love the fact that I can indulge my lust for cold and snow for the holidays by hopping in the car and driving to Tahoe. In January and February, I get to enjoy the beautiful beaches up and down the coast to breathe in the fresh ocean air. All through out, while the temperature in other parts of the country is unpredict able, there’s always sunshine on Mt. Tam to remind me of how lucky I am to be living in one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
The city is festive with holiday lighting back at Embarcadero Center, the Union Square Ice Rink with the massive holiday tree and the smell of chestnuts from street vendors. The last few months have been filled with local activities; the SF Symphony opening night was back to its full glory; the Mill Valley Film Festival did not disappoint; a memorable trip to Healdsburg’s J Vineyards & Winery — their Bubble Room is a must. We explored restaurants including the Caprice in Tiburon and Shosha in Sunnyvale. And there was even some thing for our granddog Bugsy at Berber in San Francisco, where the pups are spoiled on the last Sunday every month with Bone Jour! Fall was wrapped with a spontaneous road trip to Malibu — Zuma Beach was uncrowded and Paradise Beach Café was booming. We hope you enjoy and find inspiration in these pages to curb your wanderlust!
Cheers, Nikki Nikki@localgetaways.com
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Favorite winter getaway? This simple ques tion we asked our team on our masthead is not so simple for my Libra brain. Choose a favorite? No way. “Anywhere in Hawaii” was as specific as I could get, but it’s true. I love each island uniquely and equally. In this issue we were lucky to have Catherine Toth Fox, editor of Hawaii magazine, share her tips on hiking in Kauai — by the way, locals pronounce the name of their lush home “cow-eye.” For Oahu, we entice you with a few tantalizing tidbits in Waikiki, includ ing Espacio, The Jewel of Waikiki, which is composed of nine luxury suites (each occupying an entire floor, right across the street from the beach.) During a recent stay, my daughter Grace — who lives on the island — invited a few of her friends over for pupus. Once they walked through the private entry into the well-appointed space with a gourmet kitchen, sauna and hot tub on the deck, they oohed and ahhed at the opulence. While I went down to enjoy one of the most creative, tasty and beautiful meals of my life at Mugen on the ground floor, the group of twenty-year-olds created an impromptu video mocking a British high-drama reality show called, Love Island. I’m surprised they haven’t been cast for the real show. Back to my meal at Mugen, I’m not surprised Chef Jason Yamaguchi is getting the accolades for his inventive seven course tasting menu. We have added Mugen to our Best Dinners on Oahu, in our ever continuing effort to make your travels less about the choosing, more about the enjoying!
Mimi Mimi@localgetaways.comContributors
LOTUS ABRAMS
Writer, Tahoe Getties, pg.78
What do you enjoy most about the season? In the winter, we love taking our kids to Tahoe to go skiing — I think we've been to almost every mountain.
Ideal Tahoe itinerary? When we ski at Sugar Bowl, we like to rent a cabin near Donner Lake. We always treat the kids to ice cream at Little Truckee Ice Creamery post-skiing and often head to Moody’s or Old Town Tap for dinner. In summer, an ideal Tahoe day usually involves taking a boat out on the lake or hiking, followed by brews and bites at a local brewery.
Places your work has appeared. My work has appeared in Marin Magazine, Brit + Co, PUNCH magazine, numerous beauty publications and more.
LYNDA BALSLEV
Photographer and writer, A Bountiful Winter Menu, pg. 71
What do you enjoy most about the season?
Lighting live candles (Danish-style) on our Christmas tree, skiing and walking in the snow, relaxing by the fire, wearing big cozy sweaters, and making fondue.
Favorite winter produce and why. Only one? Maybe beets. They are sweet, nutty, earthy and healthy. They are wonderful in hummus, roasted, even raw. And their colors are irresistable.
Places your work has appeared. Numerous cookbooks, NPR, Weber grills, Eating Well, Culture magazine, Harper's Bazaar and Parade magazine among others.
MICHAEL BASS
Photographer and writer, Stones Unturned: Hiking California’s Lost Coast, pg. 52
What do you enjoy most about the season?
I love Katherine May's idea of "wintering" — the coldest season is a natural time for rest, retreat, and replenishment.
What surprised you most about your Lost Coast journey?
I was surprised to encounter four old cabins along the trail, situated near the shore — the most extreme off-grid living you could imagine. Humans felt out of place on the Lost Coast.
Places your work has appeared. This magazine is my first official photo essay publication!
Casual Luxury
Large serving bowl, $130 Hand thrown and functional, this bowl is among the pottery made by a local Sonoma County artist. Other items include plates, ramen bowls, and stacking bowls. All are dishwasher and microwave safe. Available only at Estuary in Petaluma. 120 Petaluma Blvd. N, Petaluma, CA 94952
The Architectural ring, $2,550
Modernist styling, architecturally inspired by resident jeweler Jeffrey Levin. Price is for 1ct 14K semi-mount — let the shop owners find the diamond that’s just right for you. Find more rings at a range of prices online and in store, at Poet and the Bench in Mill Valley. poetandthebench.com
Hulchi Belluni bracelet, $3,312
This 18K yellow gold beaded diamond stretch bracelet, from Hulchi Belluni’s Tresore Collection, features three gold links and two small diamond bars. Available at Shreve & Co. in San Francisco and Palo Alto. shreve.com
2019 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon, $110
This top-scoring Napa Valley Cabernet offers silky tannins and a structured profile with flavors of black cherry, espresso, and vanilla bean. It’s perfect for pairing or enjoying on its own. Available at Baldacci Family Vineyards in Napa. baldaccivineyards.com
3‘Iliahi hydration mist, $56 Hawaiian sandalwood, called ‘iliahi, has a rich, sweet, woodsy aroma that instills calmness and well-being. Used at the Four Seasons Spa in Maui, this everyday item is sure to amplify your skincare routine. Available and Surf + Sand in Mill Valley. surfandsand.co
Field Notes
Newsy bits, fun facts and useful information to share at your next gathering. By Kasia Pawlowska
A
BEGINNER’S GUIDE
TO Cross Country Skiing in Tahoe
By Deborah PassinNot a fan of downhill skiing or snowboarding? Give cross country skiing a shot! It’s great exercise, there are no crowds, and if heights make you nervous, there’s no need for chairlifts. Here are some tips to keep in mind and top spots to try out in Tahoe.
TIPS
Wear layers . No matter how cold it is, you will get warm. And when you’re not working as hard, you will get cold again. Wear multiple layers and make sure you have a place to put them when you take them off. (Note: Don’t bring a Camelback — the water in the tube will often freeze, making it useless. A small backpack and a widemouthed water bottle is ideal.)
Challenge yourself. But don’t get ahead of yourself. Don’t rush it and try something that’s beyond your capability. It’s okay to even take your skis off and walk down the steeper hills. The obstacles will still be there when you are ready.
Don’t be too hard on yourself. With any new sport, it takes time. A fit person gets proficient at cross-country skiing in about ten days if they focus on one aspect of form each day. Also keep in mind you’re dependent on the conditions of nature. One day the snow will be soft and powdery, another day it will be icy, and you’ll feel like you’re back to square one — but you’re not! Cross country skiing in a variety of conditions will make you a stronger, more skilled skier. Just be realistic about what to expect. And…
Have Fun.
Northstar California Cross Country, Telemark + Snowshoe Center
More than 20 miles of care fully groomed, scenic cross country skiing trails, rental shop, and excellent instruc tors. northstarcalifornia.com
TOP TAHOE SPOTS
Squaw Creek Cross-Country Ski Center
Resort at Squaw Creek offers 11 groomed miles on more than 400 acres of cross coun try skiing terrain, as well as rentals and instruction. destinationhotels.com
Kirkwood Cross Country & Snowshoe Center
Located in Alpine Valley, southwest of Lake Tahoe. Machine-groomed trails, spectacular scenery, and trailside warming huts — even dogs are welcome. visitlaketahoe.com
Royal Gorge Cross-Country Ski Resort
At Soda Springs, near Sugar Bowl, it’s one of the largest and best cross country ski ing resorts anywhere, with 90 trails, including 28 novice trails and four ski lifts. royalgorge.com
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Yosemite: California’s Family Friendly Winter Getaway
Yosemite winter vacations provide all the snow fun without the big resort crowds and eyepopping ski area costs. Badger Pass Ski Area is California’s oldest and friendliest “learn -to-snowboard/ski” destination. Learn to ski (guaranteed!) on the easy-to-access, family-friendly slopes. Or, ice skate in shadow of Half Dome at Curry Village, or enjoy sledding & snow play at resorts like Tenaya at Yosemite.
HACK THE PASSES
By Kasia PawlowskaHeavenly Ski Resort opened on November 18, the lifts at Palisades Tahoe started running on the 22nd — are you ready to hit the slopes? Hesitating about dropping a cool $900 to $1,200 on an Epic or Ikon Pass is understandable, but stalling much longer will leave you in the cold (figuratively). Here are some considerations to make when pur chasing your pass.
AIM FOR MID At Palisades Tahoe, a four-day midweek pass costs $409, versus $489 for a four-day anytime pass. Over at Mt. Rose, specials like Two’fer Tuesdays — two tickets for the price of one — and discounted tickets for ladies on Thursdays will get you on a less crowded mountain for a great price.
BUY NOW The general rule is that the earlier you book, the more you save. Another benefit of purchasing early is nabbing one the limited number of tickets available, especially on week ends. At Sugar Bowl, pass prices will increase after December 8 (if any passes remain available at that time).
NO KID COSTS Can your kids ski for free? Perhaps! The most generous resort in the area is Diamond Peak, where kids aren’t charged until age 7. Sugar Bowl is another notable resort where kids ski for free until age 6.
IT’S SNOW TIME AT THE House of Mouse
‘Tis the season for a steady stream of epic celebrations at Disneyland. By Brooke McDonald
It’s the most wonderful time of the year at the Happiest Place on Earth. At Disneyland Park, a 60-foot Christmas tree and char acters in their holiday best set the stage for festive entertainment like “A Christmas Fantasy” Parade and “Believe… in Holiday Magic” fireworks. Attractions get seasonal overlays for limited-time experiences — “it’s a small world” Holiday puts a jolly spin on the 1966 classic and Haunted Mansion Holiday puts a “Nightmare Before Christmas”-themed overlay on the ghoul ish can’t-miss ride.
At Disney California Adventure park, Disney Festival of Holidays is a cel ebration of diverse traditions, including Christmas/Navidad, Diwali, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa and Three Kings Day. The crown jewel is the Disney ¡Viva Navidad! Street Party — Mexican folklórico dancers and Mariachis, Brazilian samba dancers and
percussionists, and giant mojiganga pup pets are joined by Mickey, Minnie and “The Three Caballeros” in this fiesta. Holiday nighttime spectacular “World of Color –Season of Light,” pop-up marketplaces serving festive foods and drinks from around the world, seasonal ride transfor mations in Cars Land, and a Santa Claus meet-and-greet at the Redwood Creek Challenge Trail.
Launching January 27, 2023, Disney 100 Years of Wonder will be the larg est cross-company global celebration in the 100-year history of The Walt Disney Company, and Disneyland will be home to “the heart” of the entire celebration.
The entire resort will get platinum decor, and two new nighttime spectacu lars will debut: “World of Color – One” at Disney California Adventure park and “Wondrous Journeys” at Disneyland park.
Places
What's That?
Not a botanist? It's ok. Your smartphone is the easiest way to identify plants or prove to a friend that you know what a Pride of Madeira looks like. All of these are available for free in the Google Play and App Store.
iNaturalist
The app uses artificial intelligence to ID all kinds of plants and wildlife, and it’s also a social network — you can share observa tions, add them to the database and ask the community for help iden tifying your finds.
PlantNet Plant Identification
If you need quick, accu rate plant identifications from an app, this one delivers consistently accurate results within five seconds.
PlantSnap
Take a clear photo of just a few leaves or a single flower (no whole trees) and the algorithm will help you name your plant. Works on every continent and has over 600,000 species in the database.
Garden Compass
If you have a pest, disease or plant you want help recognizing, this is the app. Take a photo and submit it to experts who can name it and provide advice on care.
SmartPlant
Get help IDing plants and receive custom care through a “digital care calendar” that keeps track of the needs of every plant in your garden and alerts you when it is time to take action.
Ride and Play
Ralph Waldo Emerson famously said “It's not the Destination, It's the journey,” and he’d likely double down on that if he had these apps at his disposal. K.P.
Sporcle
A trivia website and app, Sporcle lets users take quizzes — and cre ate them — on a range of subjects. A road trip favorite, it also allows the driver to participate, as many quizzes only involve saying the answer, not tapping on a screen. sporcle.com
Bingo
This site allows users to create custom bingo cards and generates a link that you can send to friends to play. The link produces randomized, interactive cards that you can check off, which make just about anything more active and engaged. Lock in memories and get the most out of your road trip or other activity! myfreebingocards.com
PlateSpot
PlateSpot makes it easy to track all the license plates you see on your travels with a database of plates for all 50 states, as well as Canadian provinces and Mexican states. As you enter new plates, the app unlocks info about the state it's from. Available in the App Store.
SongPop
SongPop plays real clips from songs — so you’ll actually be hearing Ariana Grande, not a rip-off. If you guess the artist and song title faster than everyone else, you win. Feeling bold? There’s a mode that allows you to sing the next lyrics in the song. Available in the App Store.
BODEGA BAY
In Bodega Bay, there’s a section of the shore along the harbor on Doran Beach that’s sometimes open to off-leash romping at low tide. Hungry? Ginochio's Kitchen, The Birds Cafe and Gourmet Au Bay are a few of the res taurants with ample patio seating that allow dogs. And in terms of lodging, Bodega Harbor Inn and Bodega Bay Inn are both solid choices that welcome dogs.
CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA
MENDOCINO
If you really want to spoil your pooch — and yourself, to boot — head over to Mendocino for a luxurious getaway to the Stanford Inn & Resort. At check-in, dogs get a snack, stainless steel food and water dishes, pick-up bags, and “dog sheets” to protect the furniture. There are three nearby beaches that are dog-friendly, as well as a number of trails. Elk Cove Inn & Spa further south also offers a similar welcome basket — included in the cost of the room — filled with treats for you and your dog. The hotel is ideal for beach adventures, as the beach is enclosed by the eponymous cove.
In Carmel, Forge in the Forest has an outdoor area laughingly referred to as the “dog pound” and a decided food menu for your pup. So while you snack on chicken satay lollipops, your dog can enjoy hen house chicken strips of his own. Stretch your legs at Carmel Beach, which has a beau tiful off-leash dog run. And if you need a pet-friendly place to stay, Carmel Mission Inn, Monte Verde Inn, and Casa de Carmel are all great options.
SAN FRANCISCO
There are multiple fantastic off-leash areas around San Francisco — Ocean Beach (with plenty of sand dunes, trails, and wide-open spaces) and Crissy Field (with incredible views of the Golden Gate Bridge). The city also recently opened a dog fine-dining restaurant, Dogue, that offers a $75, three-course tasting menu. Hotel-wise, The Argonaut , Beacon Grand, The Marker and Hotel Zelos all accept four-legged friends.
A CONTEMPORARY BEACHFRONT RETREAT ROOTED IN HAWAIIAN CULTURE.
Experience Waikı kı as it should be. Discover the fully reimagined Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Resort. This iconic place of healing and renewal is complemented by the latest amenities, a focus on wellness, unmatched hospitality and authentic guest experiences that honor its voyaging legacy.
Oahu 2023
By Mimi TowleUltimate Luxury
Looking for a chill experience in the heart of Waikīkī? Recently named the #1 hotel in Hawai‘i by Conde Nast Traveler readers, Espacio The Jewel of Waikīkī, is located just across the street from the Duke Kahanamoku statue and Kapaemahu stones. The property offers nine 2,250-square-foot suites that take up the entire floor — each residential-style suite boasts two or three bedrooms, ensuite bathrooms with dry saunas, a chef’s grade kitchen, and an expansive balcony with a private hot spa. A rooftop infinity pool is offered to guests by reserva tion only to ensure a private experience. Here, you can enjoy Champagne and caviar along with sweeping views of the ocean and the Waikīkī skyline. Other perks that are unlocked with a stay in one Espacio’s suites include access to a chef’s dinner prepared by one of Japan’s top chefs, Mamoru Tatemori, directly in the guests’ kitchen, Espacio’s private spa, luxury car services, and after-hours access to some of Honolulu’s top attractions such as Honolulu Museum of Art and ‘Iolani Palace.
Don’t Miss: If you love (or love the idea of French Laundry) don’t miss Mugen, located on the ground floor. Headed up by chef Jason Yamaguchi, who has created a fine dining experience that has put Waikīkī on the global gour mand map. Be prepared to splurge. e spaciowaikiki.com
New and notable happenings on the Gathering Isle.
Cowabunga!
Finally, the Wai Kai Wave Pool located within the Hoakalei Resort in ‘Ewa Beach on West O ‘ahu will open this February for all super shredders and adventurous souls who simply want to learn how to catch a wave. Amenities include the world’s largest deep-water standing surf wave, the 52-acre Wai Kai Lagoon for water sports, three res taurants, sprawling event lawn with waterfront fire pits, waterman’s club and a unique retail shop. Powered by citywave®, the Wai Kai Wave creates authentic surfing con ditions with perfect endless and adjustable waves ranging from two-to six-feet for all skill levels. waikaiexperience.com
History Matters
Due to the efforts of many dedicated to preserving the Hawaiian culture, including an extensive exhibit at the Bishop Museum, The Healer Stones of Kapaemahu located in Waikīkī have been getting proper credit as a symbol of to honor māhū, or gender fluid, heroes of Hawaiian history to their rightful place. kapaemahu.com
Experience SCP Mendocino Inn and Farm
A sustainable sanctuary in the coastal woodlands of California’s Lost Coast.
By Ann WycoffPart of the appeal of Mendocino lies in the adventure of getting there.
Twisting country lanes and mountain passes lead to the pinot noir vineyards and apple orchards of the Anderson Valley. Continue up California’s “Lost Coast” to Mendocino. Craggy ocean-carved cliffs, secret caves, and wave-pounded islets come into view. Look for frolicking sea lions and dolphins, spouting whales, the elusive river otter and more.
When the quaint 1850s town of Mendocino comes into view you’ll find pastel colored Victorians, saltbox cottages and historic light houses. Just three miles from town, Soul Community Planet (SCP) Hotels recently welcomed SCP Mendocino Inn and Farm (formerly Glendeven Inn & Lodge and Inn at the Cobbler’s Walk) into their portfolio, add ing another California gem to their boutique collection that embodies holistic hospitality with earthfriendly and socially-responsible practices and values.
This ocean-view farmstead fea tures six buildings with 31 fabulous rooms, including the historic manor, a modern lodge, carriage house and a stand-alone cottage. The renovation is underway and will feature elements reflective of a scandi-boho design, expanded spa facilities yoga and well ness programming, and farm-to-table breakfasts and evening wine tastings in the Lodge with local Anderson Valley vintages. This restorative oasis
has a myriad of mediation spaces and trails that lead to the redwoods and coast. It’s a perfect place to rejuve nate and reconnect with nature. Committed to sustainability, SCP Mendocino Inn and Farm focuses on minimizing their carbon footprint, reducing waste, and buying locally. SCP Hotels’ giveback program, Every Stay Does Good, means each time a guest checks in they directly support nonprofits like WE Well Being, which provides mental health resources to adolescents; Miracles for Kids, which supports families caring for ill chil dren and One Tree Planted, which plants trees in deforested areas. To
date, more than 100,000 trees have been planted through this program.
There’s just so much to explore, from botanical gardens and beaches to waterfalls and wondrous light house stations to wildflower-trimmed trails that traverse Mendocino Headlands State Park at the edge of town. Be sure to paddle up the Big River in a repurposed redwood out rigger canoe, and then gently float back downstream.
Happily, at the end of the day, you’ll return to the natural beauty and warm embrace of SCP Mendocino Inn and Farm, a perfect portal to the best of what Mendocino has to offer.
Eye on Kaua‘ i
With access changes to state parks and new rules set statewide to pre serve the fragile ecosystem, Kōke‘e State Park is still a hiker’s dream, with 45 miles of hiking trails that offer breathtaking views of Kaua‘i’s fabled Nāpali Coast. To get the best out of your experience, we’ve done some research for you to ensure the ultimate experience.
Be prepared
Bring a jacket! No matter what time of year — or how warm it may be at the beach in Po‘ipū — be prepared for cold or wet weather. Kōke‘e State Park sprawls over 4,345 acres on a plateau between 3,200 and 4,200 feet above sea level in west Kaua‘i. Temperatures range from 45 degrees in January to 68 degrees in July, with an annual rainfall of about 70 inches. A $5 entry fee can
s Kalalau Lookout Discover Kōke‘e State Park. By Catherine Toth Foxbe paid at one of many kiosks, res ervations are not necessary unless you are planning to camp overnight. The visitor center is open daily, has restrooms, camping and picnic areas, a gift shop, restaurant and museum — but no cell service.
Learn. Shop. Eat.
The nonprofit Hui o Laka runs the Kōke‘e Natural History Museum as a visitor center for both state parks. The museum is open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Nearby is the Kōke‘e Lodge, which has a gift shop stocked with locally made prod ucts and a popular restaurant that offers a variety of delicious dishes, from chili made with local beef to a house-made liliko‘i chiffon pie. There’s also a full bar — the Kōloa mai tai is a must! — live music and a welcoming fireplace. But note: It
closes at 4:30pm daily. (The kitchen closes at 4pm).
Research Hikes and Lookouts
Kōke‘e State Park boasts about 45 miles of hiking trails, some with views of Waimea Canyon — like the 3-mile Canyon Trail to Waipo‘o Falls — and others with treks through native forests to lookouts of the island’s north shore. The 6-mile (roundtrip) Awa‘awapuhi
Trial ends at an overlook at 2,500 feet above the Nāpali cliffs; it’s downhill to the lookout, which means it’s uphill the entire way back. The Kalalau Lookout is the highest elevation most people can reach by road, at about 4,000 feet. From here, you can see Honopū and Kalepa ridges. Check weather con ditions, as heavy clouds can block these views.
CREATIVITY ON
Rebel with a Cause
Martin Griffin played a key role in protecting Marin’s open spaces — and continues to advocate for nature.
By Anne-Christine StrugnellDrive along Tiburon Boulevard — but this time see it differently. See it like Dr. Martin Griffin sees it, and sud denly Lyford House isn’t just a sweet yellow Victorian, it’s headquarters of the Richardson Bay Audubon Center, over looking the only open water sanctuary in San Francisco Bay. If the tide is low, shorebirds walk the wide mudflats of the undeveloped shore, heads down as they hunt for food.
If it weren’t for Griffin and his fellow “rebels with a cause,” you wouldn’t be enjoying these beautiful vistas from Tiburon Boulevard. Instead, you’d be zipping along a free way to Angel Island, Alcatraz, and Telegraph Hill. There would be no hills and no wild shoreline, because in the 1950s developers would have bulldozed the hills of Tiburon to fill Richardson Bay and built a new city called Reeds Port, with housing for 10,000 people.
Fortunately, that’s not what happened, in large part because in 1957, when dredging of Richardson Bay for Reeds Port had already begun, Elizabeth Terwilliger of the Marin Audubon Society called Griffin, then a young doc tor living in Sausalito. “We’d like you to be on the board of directors,” she said, adding, “I won’t take no for an answer.”
Griffin jumped at the opportunity to learn from Marin’s first environmentalists, notably Terwilliger and Caroline Livermore. “I literally apprenticed myself to Caroline Livermore,” he recalls. “She and her ‘ladies’ as she called them had the vision, connections, and clout to be effective, and I mobilized my medical practice and colleagues to join them in helping save the bays and lagoons of Marin.”
It was the start of a lifetime of environmental activism, with Griffin frequently called on to play leading roles in preserving Richardson Bay, Bolinas Lagoon, Tomales Bay, and Point Reyes National Seashore. As part of that effort, he also had to out-maneuver those who wanted to develop a freeway system up the west coast of Marin and build a nuclear power plant straddling the San Andreas Fault
in Bodega Bay. Working with other passionate conserva tionists and organizations including Audubon and Marin Conservation League, Griffin leveraged his knowledge of wildlife, county politics, water supplies, and real estate, plus his influence as a respected doctor to protect the coun ty’s environmental treasures. His go-to strategy in many of these campaigns was to look for “keystone” pieces of property which, when bought and protected, would make a larger project untenable for developers.
Griffin himself was a keystone. It wasn’t he alone who saved Marin from the excesses of development. But he was an essential part of the success of the so-called “rebels with a cause.” And they were extremely successful: Their grassroots political victories protected two thirds of Marin including the encircling bays and marshlands and the Point Reyes Peninsula. They stopped the planned construction of freeways on the Marin-Sonoma-Mendocino coast, got the salmon rivers of the North Coast (except the Russian) protected as Wild and Scenic Rivers, ensured that every California River requires a watershed management plan, legally preserved all the state’s tidelands, and gave the pub lic access to much of the 1,100 mile California coast.
Griffin achieved all this while also maintaining a
ICONIC CRAFTSMANSHIP
Louis M. Martini Winery is a cornerstone of Napa Valley, offering an internationally acclaimed portfolio of Cabernet Sauvignon. Since 1933, the Martini family has played an integral role in establishing Napa Valley as one of the world’s premier wine regions, with each successive generation helping to set new standards in the vineyard and cellar. Take a peek into the history of Martini with the new exclusive Underground Cellar Experience. Descend into a beautifully adornded 85-year-old barrel cellar that pays tribute to the Martini family’s old-world heritage and learn about the history of the winery. Featuring revered small-lot releases and library winees paired with inspired culinary creations f rom Chef Aaron Meneghelli.
(707) 968-3362
254 Saint Helena Hwy S, St. Helena CA louismartini.com/visit-the-winery
medical practice in Marin, getting a degree in public health, and work ing in State Hospitals, most notably earning a Governor’s Award for helping to eradicate an epidemic of hepatitis B from California’s State Hospitals. Griffin turned 102 this past July, but he’s still busy saving Marin’s wild places.
“I saw the best of wild California before World War II, and I idolized Marin and Sonoma,” he said as he settled into a chair on his back patio, which edges against Richardson Bay. He flashed a smile. “I can’t let go of any opportunity to save nature. Along with the help of the wonderful naturalists and friends I have known over the years, I think I’ve made a real difference in Northern California.”
If you were a young activist starting out today, what would you tackle first, why, and how?
I’d do what I’m doing right now, joining in the push to end ranching in Point Reyes National Seashore. It has one of the greatest populations of elephant seals and harbor seals, and millions of birds on the flyway. But there are cattle grazing right up to the edge of the Estero and manure draining in. Ranching is important in West Marin, but we need to keep the park wild.
Somehow I thought you’d say climate change would be your priority.
Oh, climate change is hugely important! The need to pro tect Point Reyes is immediate, do-able, and would in itself reduce emissions, which is why I’d start there. I’d take on climate work alongside that.
You’ve made a career in public health as well as protection of the environment. How do you think Marin’s open spaces and wild coasts support public health in the county?
People are only as healthy as their habitat, same as animals.
We need open space because we need earth worms, butterflies, and land that’s not treated with pesticides and her bicides. When I drive to Sacramento these days, there are almost no bugs on the windshield. The big chemical companies seem to be unstoppable and all-powerful. I think overuse of chemicals was what led to my grand daughter Gina’s death from leukemia. She died at 15, quite possibly from all the chemicals used in the vineyards.
You haven’t won every battle you’ve fought, but you’ve got back in the ring time and again. Today’s environmentalists have been dealt some sting ing setbacks in the past few years. What would you like to tell them to help them keep going?
I lost some big battles, mostly in Sonoma. But there’s always something that can be done. I’ve always tried to make a difference and improve habitat wherever I had the oppor tunity. So when I bought the ranch at Hop Kiln, we did a lot to improve it and protect the Westside Road area around it from development and the growth of traffic. [Griffin and his wife Joyce received the Healdsburg Museum and Historical Society’s award for historic preservation of an industrial enterprise in 1997]. We got the river designated as endan gered. And Joyce and I gave Gina’s Orchard, a 26-acre stretch of creekside property in Sonoma, to the Bishop’s Ranch retreat center, across the road from Hop Kiln.
My old friend Peter Behr would say, ‘Conservation vic tories can be temporary, while the losses are permanent.’ That’s why in 1972, the directors of Audubon Canyon Ranch, including myself, took the first steps to create an organization dedicated to training volunteers to be effective advocates for environmental planning. It was one of the most significant actions of our lives because this nonprofit — the Environmental Forum of Marin — is training up new generations to protect and build on the legacy we created. Every county needs an organization dedicated to defending the natural environment at a grassroots level.
Hotel Emblem The Beat of the City
WHEN JACK KEROUAC PENNED his tour de force On the Road in 1948, it unleashed a new generation of cre ative thinkers and rebels, inspiring San Francisco’s underground scene and its non-conformist Beatnik genera tion. Located just off Union Square, the Viceroy Hotel Group’s newly reimag ined Hotel Emblem pays homage to the 1950s counterculture, where Beatnik bravado is woven into its eclectic design, stellar art and clever offerings.
The stylish 96-room boutique hotel is a writer’s (and Instagrammer’s) dream, with its book-stacked lobby and stellar art. Portraits of Beatnik icons Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac hang in the lounge and, upon a closer look, you will see that their faces are made from their own poetic words.
The hotel’s Book Butler pedals a variety of novels and Beatnik poetry in a metal cart to your door; so, if an evening curled up in Italian linens with your favorite author appeals, Hotel Emblem has you covered. Feeling even more inspired? A vintage typewriter can be delivered for late night poetry writing and other musings. Record players and vinyl can also be requested, adding to the playfulness and tempo of your stay. Have your pooch in tow? No
problem, as the hotel is dog friendly, providing both beds and bowls. Downstairs, the style-forward Obscenity Bar is named for the Howl obscenity trials, when Ginsberg’s famed poetic work was under attack in an attempt to ban his words. The bar’s cozy couches call for reading and communing with fellow guests amidst a boho-cool vibe. It’s also the scene of the occasional live music, impromptu poetry slams and open mic nights. The Bluestone Lane coffee shop is an on-site aqua-tiled haven for artisan coffees, matcha lattes and healthy smoothies, along with avo toast, fresh pastries and prosciutto and poached eggs.
When you’re ready to explore the neighborhood, Hotel Emblem’s Underground Concierge offers six selfguided tours for off-the-beaten path San Francisco experiences. Stroll to the Beat Museum to learn more about the history of this storied scene. The hotel provides free tickets to this cultural corner, where you’ll find extensive col lection of Beat memorabilia, including original manuscripts, rare books, let ters, personal effects, an old On the Road Hudson car and more. Across the street from the museum, more Beat Gen landmarks await like the famed City
Lights Bookstore where it all began, and Vesuvio Cafe, the 1948 watering hole hangout of Kerouac, Cassady, and other Beatnik pilgrims and poets.
Complimentary bikes call for cruis ing to the Ferry Building and Hog Island Oysters Co., or a jaunt to Aquatic Park for a picnic and bridge views. Hotel Emblem is also a stone’s throw from the theater district, live music halls and a comedy club for nighttime adventures.
When it’s time to check out, Sonny, the resident greeter/bellman/charmer, pulls out the Polaroid for a parting shot and memory of your stay in front of the lobby’s book wall. There’s a reason why this groovy retreat is consistently ranked as a top hotel for all of San Francisco by Tripadvisor (presently it’s #3). This isn’t your typical luxury bou tique hotel: rather more of a rebel that prides itself on its eclectic and unique vibe. Perhaps the words written on your hotel room wall says it all:
If you believe you are a poet, who are you to argue? Forgive everybody. Give Up. Get drunk. Journey boldly and for ever follow in the footsteps of a giant. Here’s to the mad ones.
At Hotel Emblem, the past mingles with the present in cool collusion. Snap. viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/emblem
The Ultimate Guide to
SANTA BARBARA
By Mimi Towle and Bekah WrightKnown as the "American Riviera," this California coastal town is an enchanting place to explore.
With a pleasant temperature year-round, Santa Barbara is an all-around top destination for many types of travelers. Winter is one of the best times to visit and even the Monarch butter flies agree — November marks the beginning of their migration and they can be seen decorat ing tree branches until they leave in March. Foodies, better plan a week to hit all the hot spots and world-class winer ies; couples, choose from many romantic lodging options, long beach walks and shopping;
families, count on beaches and parks abound. Speaking of beautiful winged creatures, kids of all ages love the walkthrough butterfly garden at the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History. And for his tory buffs, a long afternoon at the Santa Barbara Mission will be one for the books as it’s not the usual hot and dusty adobe complex — it is considered the "Queen of the Missions."
One could say, Santa Barbara is the pretty sister of California cities. She doesn’t try
to be, but she’s got that “wow” factor, and it just comes so easy. Her white sand beaches, surrounded by the Santa Ynez mountain range freckled with bright, white Spanish Colonial Revival architecture, colorful tile roofs and brilliant splashes of bougainvillea have earned her the trademarked moniker, The American Riviera.
If you’ve been thinking of heading to Santa Barbara, we’ve taken care of the research for you.
WHERE TO STAY IN SANTA BARBARA
According to Wikipedia, the Santa Barbara South Coast region is the northernmost part of Southern California, and according to most cars, it’s about one-and-half tanks of gas from the Bay Area. No mat ter how you slice it, or measure it, it feels like Santa Barbara is in middle of California and attracts about seven million visitors a year — the pandemic has not slowed it down.
Lodging options range from camping to roadside inns, shortterm rentals, super opulent hotels and homes fit for royalty. High-end properties like The Ritz-Carlton Bacara, Rosewood Miramar Beach and the now-shuttered Four Seasons Biltmore reinforce the town’s
uber-luxe reputation, however, value can be found throughout the county. We’ve done ample “value” exploring on upper State Street and can highly recommend the Lemon Tree Inn and the Pepper Tree. Note: these are the only lodging options with a “tree” in the name we recommend. We like upper State Street because of the local vibe — you’ll find lots of great restaurants and shops not serving the flocks of tourists. An even more residential vibe is the area between Goleta and the city of Santa Barbara — locals call it “Noleta” — which is also full of plenty of under-the-radar places to seek out good rates. Midweek stays, as well as fall through early spring visits, offer the very best deals. Visit Santa Barbara is offering a third night free with select proper ties through the end of the year.
Speaking of good rates, here’s a fun fact: the original Motel 6 was founded just steps away from the East Beach, back in 1962 by inspiring entrepreneur Bill Becker. The motel, which charged just $6 per night for a stay, aimed to make travel acces sible, and it worked — it’s still going strong. This original location across the street from East Beach was just remodeled and is still a deal with rates starting just above $100.
However, if you want to just dive into the full visitor experience, here are a couple of our favorite options.
Offering a taste of that old-timey elegance, Mar Monte Hotel has recently reopened as a reincarna tion of the historic 1930s Vista Mar Monte, which went through many iterations and eventually was simply known as, “The Hyatt” for decades.
The property is still under the Hyatt umbrella in the Unbound Collection. The 200-room Spanish-style prop erty ambles over three oceanfront acres with a pool, comfortable lobby areas and two ballrooms for celebra tions or company meetings. Another great feature of this property is the proximity to the Cabrillo Pavilion, which has also undergone a sizable renovation, and is a popular spot used for big family parties and wed dings and large group functions.
Another one of our favorite spots is the Hotel Milo, also across the street from the beach, named for the prolific historical hotelier Milo Potter, whose popular Potter Hotel helped to put Santa Barbara on the tourism map back in 1903. Today, all that is left of this grand dame is a park lined with palm trees, which is now a convenient courtyard in the center of the 2.5 acre property with a bounty of fire pits and seating areas scattered throughout.
s Mar Monte Hotel rWHERE TO EAT IN SANTA BARBARA
Those aforementioned foodies might want to plan to stay for a week, considering there are 13 eateries here with a Michelin nod. Other nonMichelin spots that warrant a visit include Arigato for sushi, and Secret Bao for modern Chinese dining — both are located on State Street. East Beach Tacos at 226 S Milpas Street is the best take-out for a beach picnic, while Empty Bowl Gourmet Noodles is ideal for a picnic at the mission. Be sure to also check out Toma on Cabrillo for delicious Italian food with abundant parklet seating. Margerum Wine Bar was our stop
for researching the Urban Wine Trail, since they have expanded outdoor seating to stay in business.
BREAKFAST
Scarlet Begonia — Waffles and cin namon buns that are worth writing home about.
The Boathouse at Hendry’s Beach — Classic brunch spot near the UC Santa Barbara campus.
Jeannine’s — Local favorite for years, with a new beach location.
Backyard Bowls — Tasty açai bowls, good anytime of the day.
LUNCH
East Beach Tacos — Family favorite for innovative tacos, located next to a batting range.
Empty Bowl Noodles — Creative (and tasty) noodles, dim sum from all over Asia.
Savoy Cafe and Deli — Voted best salad bar for years, they also offer the traditional deli fare, as in, there is something for everyone.
DINNER
The Lark — Great vibe, innovated menu equals an unforgettable meal under the stars in the Funk Zone.
Secret Bao — Just off State Street, this all-star culinary team offers creative Asian cuisine.
Toma — Authentic and delicious Italian cuisine, conveniently right across from the beach.
WHAT TO DO IN SANTA BARBARA
Luckily Santa Barbara has as many healthy activities as noteworthy restaurants. From surfing, stand-up paddling, to running and hiking, my time in Santa Barbara always feels like a balance of calories in, calories out.
HIKING
There are endless hikes throughout Santa Barbara’s diverse landscape. Want a view of the ocean? A mountain to summit? Critters to spy? Yes, there’s those elements and so much more.
With its five miles of trails, excel lent trekking can be done at Santa Barbara Botanic Garden. This living museum is lush with native plants and birds. It’s even possible to spot deer and coyotes.
Bringing with it stone steps, a wooden bridge, and a tree-filled canyon is Goleta’s Nojoqui Falls Park . Just waiting to delight here: an 80-foot waterfall.
Go for the adrenaline rush of Cathedral Peak with its towering boulders that rank for class 3 rock climbing. Gloves are recommended.
SURFING
For almost 23 years, Santa Barbara Surf School’s instructors have made wannabe surfers' dreams of hang ing 10 come true on Mondos Beach. Available to all skill levels, the 1.5hour classes are offered on a private or group basis.
KAYAKING
Catch sight of kayakers along the American Riviera, and the desire to
join in will come on. Go for it! Santa Barbara Kayaking offers three kaya king tour options: Harbor Wildlife Kayak Tour (easy; 10am, 11am; from 1.5 to 2 hours), Gaviota Coast Kayak Tour from Haskell’s Beach (easy to moderate; 9:30am to 12:30pm; 2.5 hours), and the Sunset Kayak Tour on Santa Barbara Harbor (easy to moderate; 2.5+ hours) with a start based on time of year.
CORONADO BUTTERFLY PRESERVE
This 9.3-acre property along Devereux Creek includes wood lands, coastal bluffs, and meadows, landscapes appealing to humans and butterflies alike. Especially the Goleta Butterfly Groves, ideal for overwintering Monarchs. Catch them during their migration period November through February.
CULTURE
MUSEUMS
Love museums? Santa Barbara’s got this territory covered. Especially the Santa Barbara’s Museum of Natural History, with exhibits dedicated to geology, astronomy (yep, there’s a planetarium here, too), anthropology, paleontology, and, of course, creatures great and small. Head to Stearns Wharf to check out the adjunct Sea
California’s Historic Mission Trail.
Take a self-guided tour of the prop erty, which includes a museum, cemetery, mausoleum, and 12 acres of historic gardens. Highly recom mended: pack a picnic to enjoy in the rose garden.
THE FUNK ZONE
This eclectic area just off the beach has affectionately become known as the “drunk zone” due to its plethora
SANTA BARBARA
History
The American Riviera’s rich history began with the Chumash Indians, a hunter-gatherer tribe known for their rock art and basket-weaving skills. In 1602, the name Santa Barbara first became associated with the area when Spanish maritime explorer Sebastián Vizcaíno graced the channel and sur rounding islands with it in gratitude after surviving a vio lent storm there. The region began evolving with the arrival of the Spanish Colonials. In 1822, Santa Barbara became a territory of Mexico after the Mexican War of Independence. With the conclusion of the Mexican-American War in 1847, Santa Barbara became part of the United States.
Santa Barbara’s personality continued to transform with the excitement of the Gold Rush, the Victorian Era, which launched a lifelong love affair with health and well-being, rolling right into the Silent Film Era (1910 to 1922), when Flying "A" Studios saw hits from stars like Charlie Chaplin before the advent of talkies. Still to come was an oil boom, two devastating earthquakes, and those stationed in Santa Barbara during World War II drawing attention to the idyllic region.
Center for a glimpse of the area’s marine life. Prefer art or history?
Pop into downtown’s Santa Barbara Museum of Art and the historic El Pueblo Viejo District’s Santa Barbara Historical Museum.
OLD MISSION SANTA BARBARA
This 1786-founded Franciscan mis sion is one of the 21 missions along
of wine tours (don’t miss the selfguided Urban Wine Trail’s 20+ stops) and tasting rooms. Beyond imbibing, there’s plenty to see and do, from taking in art ranging via murals and galleries, popping into shops to pick up great buys from local artisans, and savoring cuisine that will trigger return trip cravings.
It's easy to spot Santa Barbara’s past reflected in the city through its mission-style archi tecture and landmarks like the 1872-built Stearns Wharf (California’s oldest working wharf), the 1786-founded Old Mission Santa Barbara, where Franciscan Friars live to this day.
ANNUAL EVENTS
SANTA BARBARA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
February
For over 35 years, silver screen luminaries have flocked to Santa Barbara for the Santa Barbara International Film Festival (SBIFF). Want to get in on the action? Head for SBIFF’s home, the Riviera Theatre. Beyond showcasing inter national and independent films, the festival offers industry panels and filmmaker seminars. On tap, too, are award ceremonies honoring some of the film industry’s brightest. On this year’s list: Michelle Yeoh, Jamie Lee Curtis, and Brendan Fraser.
I MADONNARI ITALIAN STREET PAINTING FESTIVAL
Every May
Bright colors make their way through Santa Barbara’s Mission Plaza each May as the annual I Madonnari Italian Street Painting Festival gets underway. Veritable masterpieces in chalk, over 150 of them, adorn the sidewalks and streets. During the three-day event, it’s possible to watch the artists in action and take in the stunning col ors while partaking in Italian food and vibing to live music. Another perk: the event benefits Children’s Creative Project’s various arts edu cation programs.
OLD SPANISH DAYS – FIESTA WEEK
August 2-6, 2023
Going strong since 1924, Old Spanish Days lauds Santa Barbara’s Spanish, Mexican pioneers, and Native Americans by showcas ing their rich history, culture, and traditions, with a week filled with food, mercados (or markets), music, dance, and parades at locations throughout town.
SANTA BARBARA BOWL October
The Santa Barbara Bowl is a beloved outdoor amphitheater nestled in a eucalyptus grove. LA residents often spend the night so they can watch shows from major touring perform ers. They’ve been posting new concerts for the summer, fall and beyond to their website, including My Morning Jacket (Sept. 23), Lord Huron (Sept. 28), Glass Animals (Oct. 27-28) and more.
PIANOS ON STATE STREET October
A program featuring pianos painted by artists temporarily set up throughout downtown. Anyone can play these pianos, and they often have guest musicians come and play, such as Zach Gill (from Animal Liberation Orchestra a.k.a. ALO, who often tours with Jack Johnson).
MONTECITO MOTOR CLASSIC October
The Montecito Motor Classic features a diverse selection of rare and unique vehicles. The annual car show draws car enthusiasts and families for an opportunity to interact with the cars and their caretakers, free of charge.
ANNUAL HOLIDAY PARADE OF LIGHTS AT THE HARBOR December
Santa Barbara Harbor’s City Pier transforms into a winter wonderland replete with snow, a holiday tree, and an illuminated boat parade. Don’t wait until dark to start the fun. The event kicks off at noon with standup paddlers and kayak ers decked out for the festivities. At 5:30 pm, the boat parade commences from Ledbetter Beach to Cabrillo Arts Pavilion, then Stearns Wharf. Capping off the event: fireworks.
WONDERLAND wellness
Check out SoCal’s best holistic havens.
BY JEANNE COOPER AND ANN WYCOFFIT’S A LAND OF ETERNAL SUNSHINE AND COASTAL BEAUTY. Rolling hills and cliffside canyons with endless meandering trials. Organic farms, citrus orchards, and colorful blooms. Locals fill their days with early morning surf and SUP sessions, yoga, Pilates, mindful meditation and breathwork. Matcha lattes, golden milk, cold pressed juices, smoothies, alkaline water, acai bowls and bone broth fill the menus. Vuori, lulu, Olukai, and UGGs are de riguer. Acupuncture, Vitamin IVs, massage and reiki sessions are not seen as a luxury but rather as critical self-care for rejuvenation and relaxation. Take note as these crazy Californians are onto some thing. Don’t forget they cracked the DNA code in San Diego, so it’s no wonder this region is championing the integration of bio tech and holistic healing to usher into a new wave of wellness, longevity
and antidotes to stress. Where else can you sit in front of a BioCharger that emanates energy waves to detox and invigorate your cells while listening to a breathwork meditation, or pedal on stationary bike powered by Artificial Intelligence with pure oxygen flowing into your mask, or receive a Vitamin-infused IV while getting a pedicure? Some of the country’s best spas and cutting-edge fitness experiences can be found in San Diego and Orange County. No wonder spa-goers and vacation ers flock to this sunny SoCal clime for a healthy dose of Vitamin D, digital detoxing, restoration and to recharge their lives.
San Diego
Cal a Vie
VISTA, CA
Gazing at the picture-perfect stone chapel with its red-tiled roof, you can’t help but to feel transported to the French countryside of Provence — with the lavender-kissed land scape, grapevine patchwork and pops of colorful bougainvillea in view. While the 200-acre Cal-a-Vie
is nestled above San Diego in the sleepy rolling hills of Vista, its cli entele jets in from around the globe as this destination spa is a magical portal to wellness. Guests can luxu riate for 3-, 4-, 5- or 7-night stays that include, 160+ fitness classes, mindfulness and mind/body ses sions, hiking, world-class golf, lectures, soulful spa therapies and
garden-fresh gourmet cuisine paired with estate’s own wine from the grapes grown onsite. With a 5-to-1 staff to guest ratio, elevated service and pampering abounds. After leav ing the comforts of your private villa, your morning commences with stretching and movement whether you prefer an energetic hike or relaxing stroll through the gardens. Guests can curate their days with aqua circuits, personal trainers, CBD Himalayan coffee wraps, sound bowl meditations, trapeze yoga, pickleball, jewelry making, nutri tion classes, meditative strolls in the stone labyrinth and stargazing with a professional astronomer in the new observatory.
The owners, Francophiles origi nally from New Orleans, have filled the estate with inimitable antiques and even have a shop filled with trea sures they've collected from around the globe. Their commitment to Old World aesthetics and authentic architecture is also reflected in the 400-year old Chapel, imported from Dijon, France, and painstakingly rebuilt piece by piece on property, which now serves as the meditation center. Rotating themed weeks fill the calendar like Staying Youthful While Aging and Mental Fitness: Mindset Matters — truly something for everyone. cal-a-vie.com
Four Moons Spa LEUCADIA, CALIFORNIA
North County San Diego’s cool est holistic haven, tucked away in the coastal surf town of Leucadia, radiates as a spiritual vortex with exceptional therapists in a bohochic setting. Think Balinese Bales (bungalows) and koi ponds with gurgling waterfalls, lounge-y day beds and airy bright yoga rooms, and cottages with acupuncturists, naturopaths, energy healers and an aromatic apothecary. Their new Hammam Bathing Ritual is a per fect antidote to stress as you lie on the heated marble slab enjoying a body wash with Turkish olive soap, followed by a papaya and bamboo exfoliation to stimulate the lymph
system. After a warm water rinse, a hydrating mineral mask is applied from head to toe. Cocooned, you’ll melt into a meditative state while receiving foot reflexology, scalp ten sion release and a facial massage with lovely Eminence stonecrop oil. After a final rinse you’ll float out the door altered and energetically ready for a tarot or spirit reading. Four Moons also rolls out the mats for Thai massage where a practitio ner stretches the body and walks gently on the back, or you can opt for a prenatal or lymphatic drain age body work. After, soak in the outdoor seawater tub then further detox in the infrared sauna. Get your glow on with the famed Blood Moon PRP (Vampire) facial that
uses your own blood plasma or try “Notox” facial rejuvenation with the acupuncturist’s adept placement of needles and massage. Four Moons is naturally on trend with the NAD IV Therapy that supplies the body with the energy it needs to heal on a cellular level and is said to promote longevity. Marvelously, you can get your healing drip while relaxing during an organic facial. Wellness gatherings also include maturopath doctor talks, group acupuncture, sound bathing rituals, full moon circles, and more. High vibration healers and the best therapists flock to this female co-founded and locally owned spiritual center as it’s the best kept secret in town. fourmoonsspa.com
Golden Door
SAN MARCOS, CA
Behind the bejeweled golden doors, a holistic sanctuary like no other awaits. Fashioned after a Kyoto country inn, here you’ll find bam boo forests, koi ponds, finely raked sand gardens and museum-quality Japanese art. But this Zen sanctu ary goes beyond being a pampering spa, as for many a visit here means a life-altering experience, a per fect chance to rejuvenate and reset one’s path. Remarkably, much of the clientele (60%) are repeat custom ers willing to dole out $11,000 for a
wellness week. So what’s the secret golden elixir? The Golden Door offers a perfect blend of mind/body/ spirit experiences: meditative silent hikes, mountaintop Tai Chi in the morning sun, shaman rituals, reiki, yoga and sound healings in the tree top studio, soul vision board making and more. When it’s time to move and sweat you can try TRX or find your rhythm in a Broadway show tunes dance class with a Hollywood choreographer. Each night a fan is placed on your pillow with the fol lowing day’s bespoke experiences, curated just for you, whether it’s an
Ayurvedic massage, Watsu water therapy, a rosemary-infused herbal wrap or a fencing class.
Look for Chef Greg Frey in the biodynamic gardens pulling produce or tending his beehives. His California fresh cuisine favors hyper local sourcing with orchards and organic gardens on property and chicken coops for fresh morning eggs. You’ll sip the famed potassium broth and crave the ginger honey tea long after you’ve returned home.
more wellness
OASES IN SAN DIEGO
Rancho Valencia: This haciendastyle hideaway, a terracotta and tile paradise, is the ultimate place for a day spa experience. They offer yoga and stretch classes in their open air pavilion, an outdoor hydrocircut and pool-side cabana
RHIANNON TAYLOR PHOTOGRAPY r Golden Door grounds r Golden DoortrendingThis booming studio features all the newest and smartest gear.
Smart Fit Method
CARDIFF + COSTA MESAThis concierge-style wellness and workout program, founded by San Diegan father-son duo, Rob and Connor Darnbrough, offers per sonalized training using machines powered by robotics and Artificial Intelligence. Efficient and effec tive, the method focuses on building muscle mass, bone density, and cardiovascular strength using four cutting-edge machines. And get this: three weekly, 20-minute ses sions deliver the same physiological response as five to seven hours of traditional workouts. The Vesper, developed in conjunction with NASA and a spinal rehab center, is a recumbent elliptical where biceps and quads are wrapped in cold pres surized cuffs to increase muscle building and repair without the wear and tear on the joints. And keep ing the body cool while exercising means no oxygen is wasted. High intensity sprints on The Carol, an AI stationary bike, depletes 90% of glycogen in the working muscles so the second protocol: 30, eight second sprints at 80% of your max heart rate, burns fat nine times more efficiently compared to run ning or jogging. Add in a Live02
lunches, plus, divine treatments from Franco-luxe Biologique Rochere facials to citrus body polishes and EMSCULPT Neo, a noninvasive body shaping therapy. ranchovalencia.com
Fairmont Grand Del Mar: This Euro-
oxygen mask for EWOT (exercise with oxygen therapy) that toggles between both low and high levels of oxygen to drive metabolic efficiency, and you supercharge the experience even more. The ARX is the safest and most effective strength training machine in the industry. Post work out members sit together swapping wellness tips around the pulsating BioCharger which reverses cellular
chic resort invites guests to relax and rejuvenate in their Forbes fivestar-rated elegant spa, where you can enjoy a gentleman’s facial, aro matic body wrap, or hydrotherapy and then lounge by the adults-only pool savoring a healthy spa lunch. granddelmar.com
aging with its PEMF waves. Every 28 days a full body scan holds clients accountable and reveals real body recomposition as fat is reduced and lean muscle mass increases. The SFM Flagship studio overlooks the Pacific in Cardiff by the Sea, just north of San Diego, and outposts are popping up all over the SoCal region including La Jolla and Costa Mesa in Orange County. smartfitmethod.com
Rancho La Puerta: This seminal spa, opened in 1940, sits just over the border in Tecate, Mexico. You’ll find 86 casitas on 4,000 private acres of gardens, mountains and meadows, an oasis for hiking, fit ness and healthy cooking classes. rancholapuerta.com
Orange County
Orange County’s oceanfront resorts for wellness retreats.
There's something about the brilliant sun and inviting beaches of Orange County that makes people want to look and feel their best. OC's denizens have never been shy about embracing the latest modes of self-improvement, but also understand the need to hang loose and luxuriate in their spectacular surround ings. Here's where you can join them for a memorable wellness getaway.
The Resort at Pelican Hill
NEWPORT BEACH
It’s easy to believe you’re on a Mediterranean retreat at this Newport Beach sanctuary, where Palladian-style bungalows and villas with red-tiled roofs share a 504-acre hilltop com pound with dazzling ocean views and groves of olive, fig and cypress trees.
The Ritz-Carlton
LAGUNA NIGUEL
The Pacific Ocean and its spectacular shoreline inspire everything from spa treatments and wellness activities to dining and excursions at this blufftop resort in Laguna Beach’s elite Dana Point community.
In the spa’s 12 rooms with soothing aqua and beige hues, treatments incor porate sea salt, minerals, water and other ocean ingredients. Start with the Laguna Wellness Experience, which includes a seaweed body wrap, a marine collagen facial mask and a customized massage. Once refreshed, keep on the right track with complimentary daily yoga and Pilates classes in the fitness
center, where floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the ocean, or outdoor yoga.
A walkway from the lobby leads downhill to the beach, with shuttle ser vice also available; once there, a beach butler provides umbrellas, towels and chairs. Guests can also exercise their brains on a complimentary, invigorat ing sea walk or intertidal hike. Led by naturalists, the beach strolls focus on wildlife and conservation.
For healthful eating, head to Raya, the resort’s Latin-themed restaurant cre ated by chef Richard Sandoval, featuring sustainable seafood, organic meats and plentiful vegan and vegetarian fare, or stop by the Market Place for other fastcasual options. ritzcarlton.com
The sprawling Coliseum Pool and its luxurious cabanas provide an elevated way to soak in the SoCal sun, while treatments at the Spa at Pelican Hill allow use of the Roman-inspired Acqua Colonnade, a collection of salt water soaking tubs, saunas and herbal steam rooms. The spa uses only natu ral ingredients, such as the sea algae and rosemary shea butter in its signa ture Coastal Renewal body treatment, and the Laurel Skin Curated Skin Ritual Facial, which uses the plantbased products of Petaluma-based Laurel Skin.
The Event Lawn hosts complimen tary daily fitness classes, including a variety of yoga specialties and mat Pilates, with an entrancing ocean vista. The resort’s free beach trolley whisks guests to the nearby 3-mile-long Crystal Cove State Beach; adjacent Crystal Cove State Park offers more than 15 miles of backcountry trails and a 2.5-mile paved blufftop trail.
For healthful dining, room service will deliver dishes like kale Caesar salad, while guests in villas can whip up their favorite dishes in a gourmet kitchen. pelicanhill.com
more wellness OASES IN ORANGE COUNTY
The Pearl Laguna: The 12-room luxury ashram in the hills above Laguna Beach offers all-inclu sive one-week and multi-week retreats focused on yoga, hiking and meditation, with
Montage Laguna Beach
LAGUNA BEACH
When it debuted in 2003, the flag ship property for Montage Hotels & Resorts set the brand’s retreat vibe with its 20,000-square-foot spa, three pools and all ocean-view rooms and suites. Two decades later, the recently renovated resort still leads the way with its comprehensive spa and wellness programming and a wealth of outdoor activities on its 30 oceanfront acres, four nearby beaches and wilderness areas.
Maximizing the ocean view with floor-to-ceiling windows, the spa complex holds 12 massage rooms, four facial treatment rooms, two hydrotherapy rooms and three
organic vegetarian meals. thepearllaguna.com
Waldorf Astoria Monarch Beach Resort & Club: The 175-acre seaside resort on Dana Point
specialty indoor/outdoor rooms ideal for a couples’ massage. It also includes an adults-only lap pool, well-appointed fitness room with weights and machines, a yoga studio and separate locker rooms for men and women. There guests can unwind in a relaxation room with fireplace, warm up in a steam room, sauna, or outdoor Jacuzzi, or for the non-faint of heart, dip into a cold plunge.
To feel the vibe even more, book the California Wildflower Ritual, which begins with full-body, musclerelaxing vibrational work, a massage with heated herbal poultices and con cludes with an orange soufflé body wrap, a foot massage with scrub, and gentle vibrations on the feet. montagehotels.com
in Laguna Beach provides 40 weekly fitness classes, including aerial yoga and guided beach hikes, along with seasonally inspired spa treatments. waldorfastoriamonarchbeach.com
Hiking C alifornia’s Lost Coast stones un turned:
25 miles of Northern California coastline — left alone.
The Lost Coast is the westernmost point in the continental United States. It is a singular, stun ning stretch of coastal wilderness: undeveloped and unforgiving. Steep cliffs rise from the surf, so dramatically that the state could not safely construct a highway. The rugged terrain forced the Pacific Coast Highway away from its epony mous coast, ensuring civilization could never spill onto the black sand beaches. The land and water seemed to say: stay away.
And humans obliged. In 1970, the surrounding King Range mountains became the nation’s first National Conservation Area. Centuries before, the Mattole and Sinkyone people were the care ful stewards of this treacherous land. Call it lost, stolen, or conserved: the coast has long been left to its own devices.
Today, the only way to experience this extraordinary place is by hiking it. The 24.6mile northern stretch of the Lost Coast Trail is a coveted backpacking adventure. So much so,
that I logged onto the recreation.gov website at the exact moment, early in the morning on October 1st, when the limited number of permits were released. Nearly a year later — during California’s most intense heat wave on record — I hiked the trail with my two friends Jeremy and (also) Jeremy.
Hiking the Lost Coast is as much as a logistical chal lenge as a physical effort. Our journey began with a 5am wakeup in Redway, California — a sleepy redwood town (not that we got any sleep) four hours from San Francisco. A dawn drive brought us to the Southern trailhead at Black Sands Beach. We parked our car and boarded a small shuttle, which weaved through the weed farms of Humboldt County en route to the Northern trailhead at Mattole Beach. From Mattole, we started hiking south — toward an eventual return to our car at Black Sands. Signage is few and far between, but if you keep the ocean in sight on your right, you know you’re on the right path.
The ocean is the main character in this story. At times, it is the protagonist. A shimmering beacon of blue beauty; a calming soundscape of crashing waves; a pul sating home to incredible wildlife. But in many moments, the ocean is the antagonist. A fickle, unpredictable threat for sneaker waves; a powerful force of lethal riptides; a lonely expanse of muted grayness. Blogs and alarmist guides warn you of the Pacific’s unruly behavior, casting a shadow of fear and uncertainty as you hike next to it.
Day 1: 7 Miles
For our first day on trail, the ocean was friendly: sparkling from the bright, blinding sun. We planned to hike seven sleepless miles, from the Mattole trailhead to Cooskie Creek — one of the first freshwater sources on the path and a com mon first-night campsite.
In order to get to Cooskie Creek, we would need to pass through 1.5 of the 3 impassable zones: areas which are unsafe to hike at high tide. Jumbled rocks fill these thin slices of coastline, so narrow that hikers have no escape in the event an encroaching wave puts them in danger. These sections require backpackers to carefully cooperate with the ocean. There’s no way around it. At low tide, the ocean is your friend. At high tide, it is your foe.
In my back pocket, I carried the daily tide charts. Each day, we studied the timing of the morning and afternoon low tides, to coordinate our passage of the impassable zones dur ing these safer moments. The first small pinch point came just before the now-defunct Punta Gorda Lighthouse.
As the trail moves from beach to bluff, the terrain becomes mostly flat and dependable. These “terraces” offer beautiful views of the ocean below, giving hikers a safe and a grand perspective. Just offshore, on small rock islands, the sea lions make their presence known. Sharing real estate with
squawking sea birds, they bark as loud as they can — creat ing a chaotic chorus of mating calls, declarations of hunger, and other news, sports, and weather they like to discuss.
At the highest point, known as Hat Rock, we got our first impression of the larger shape of this part of the coastline. Coastal chaparral and pine-forested greenery mirror Mount Tamalpais, and sharp rises from the ocean resemble Big Sur, but the Lost Coast entirely unique in its emptiness. We did not see a single other hiker on the first day on trail.
Aiming to make camp by 6pm, the threshold time for the tides, we pushed through the first half of an impassable zone (2 miles) to reach the protected site at Cooskie Creek, where we found more hikers resting for the night. We arrived just in time to enjoy a bagged backpacker meal — coconut rice with banana — and watch the sun tumble below the Pacific horizon.
Shortly after last light, we re-upped our water supply by filtering freshwater from the creek. One hiker shouted that he spotted three rattlesnakes near his tent — a danger we had been warned about, as they are most prevalent in the warmer months. The rattlesnakes find shelter in cracks of driftwood, piles of rocks, and other coastal scrub; but they are a dormant threat unless you step on or surprise them. So, we watched our steps, and slept to the steady hum of breaking waves.
Cooskie Creek is a safe ravine in the middle of a 4-mile impassable zone. We needed to clear the remaining 2 miles at the lowest possible tide. That morning’s low tide happened to fall at 5:30am, so we awoke at 5 with a plan to pass through at dawn. Climbing out of our tents, we looked out at a sea of darkness — except for the comforting sight of scat tered headlamps. The other groups all agreed: this was the best time to complete the impassable.
Thick fog enveloped the beaches, rendering the impassable zone nearly invisible. The only discern ible features of the coastline were the black, wet, sharp rocks that cut through the fog. The previous day, the shimmering blue ocean made the impassable zones feel innocuous and doable — but this morn ing’s passage felt like a treacherous exploration of
an unknown planet, coupled with a fast chase to avoid a threatening tide. It was the same terrain, and the same mileage, but transformed weather cast an intimidating shadow on the ocean. Friend had turned to foe.
Careful focus and effective trekking poles helped us complete the day’s first 2 miles faster than we anticipated. We shared a delayed breakfast and cof fee at Randall Creek, the first freshwater source after the impassable. Creeks like Cooskie and Randall are scattered throughout the coastline. The running water comes from the King Range moun tains and gives life to a beautiful array of plants and wildlife on its way. At these spots on the trail, the creeks spill into the ocean: a chance to see the dynamic intersection of fresh and saltwater.
The entire Lost Coast is a showcase of the power of water. As much as the ocean is a fountain of life for the entire planet, it’s also defined by its devastat ing and destructive force. This region offers a stark reminder — saltwater carves the jagged rocks and geologic formations, slowly wearing down pebbles into sand and trees into weathered white driftwood. The freshwater, on the other hand, furnishes flourish ing creek ecosystems amid otherwise dry chaparral. The water gives, and it takes. It builds, and it breaks.
We had 8 more miles to hike that day, in order to maintain a pace in sync with the tides. We climbed away from the beach and started walking along a sweeping flat terrace. That morning’s fog slowly thinned, but remained, and cast a white glow over the yellowing trail.
The Lost Coast soundscape mixes crashing waves, whipping wind, squawking sea birds, humming insects, running water, and the occasional barking sea lion. You can hear the ocean’s fortitude; the strong rip currents drag rocks and pebbles from the shore,
pulling them rapidly into the surf — creating a loud, unmistakable clatter. But still, the Lost Coast is quiet. As acoustic ecologist Gordon Hempton likes to say: quiet is not the absence of sound. Quiet is the absence of noise. In this quiet, I felt a sense of deep, embodied presence: in the place, in the company of close friends, in the moment of my life. Presence is a sensation I chase within the chaotic tenor of city life. But in the silence of the Lost Coast, presence found me.
We soon settled into the stillness at Big Flat, our second campsite — where another creek emerges from King Range and funnels into the Pacific. We set up our tents on patches of soft gray sand and watched yet another sunset, tucking into an extended, restful stay at this gorgeous campground.
Along the steep King Range cliffs, there are no roads to alter the path of a fire. These areas burn without human influence, following the natural (and regenerative) course of forest fires. Evidently, a recent fire had torn through the woods near Big Flat, leaving charred and desolate mountain faces in its wake.
Day 3: 4 Miles
We spent a slow morning of cards and conversation at Big Flat. The afternoon low tide would fall at 6pm, and we needed a long window of time to safely complete the next 4-mile impassable zone. The fog had not burned off, leaving us with a cool climate and muted coastline.
At this point on Day 3, we only had 8 miles left. No rush: we would take a leisurely two days to complete it. My attention oscillated between my hiking boots, our conversation, and the dramatic divide between forest and sea. The Douglas firs and sugar pines seem to reach for the ocean, stopping just short of the lapping waves.
As low tide neared, the sun began to peek through the clouds and slice through the fog, illuminating pockets of glistening grass. At the time, I was stunned by the beauty of the grass — tall green stems capped with razor-sharp golden-brown leaves — and how they seemed to grow everywhere in sight. It wasn’t until returning from the trip that I learned that this plant, Pampas grass, is an invasive species. Introduced as an ornamental plant and for erosion control, it soon
colonized bare ground all over the California coast. Every year, each plume produces up to 100,000 seeds, which get widely dispersed by the Lost Coast’s consistent winds and have no trouble growing in its harsh climate. The sharp leaf blades are undesirable — even dangerous — as food or shelter for birds and other wildlife. The spreading Pampas grass continues to dis place native plant life and endanger local biodiversity.
Down at sea level, especially at low tide, the Lost Coast reveals the wildlife that do belong. Collections of starfish adhere to the wet rocks. We watched as a raft of five river otters emerged from the ocean, sprinted across the beach, waded through a freshwater creek, and weaved their way through the trees back into a larger river. Small herds of deer congregated to graze and nap on the coastal scrub, while wrecks of seabirds convened for morning meetings on the beach. We did not encounter the famed elephant seals, whales and the occasional bear known to wander these areas.
Our final campsite was at Gitchell Creek, which is an important habitat for endangered salmon and steel head that the Bureau of Land Management has taken a special interest in protecting. Here we filled our water bottles and backpack bladders for the final time. We pumped the creek water through our water filter’s plastic tube, which had broken the day before. It was as urgent a problem as any on the trip. The filter was our only way of drinking potable water. So we jerry-rigged it with duct tape to save the contraption and stock up on the last liters we needed to complete the trail.
Day 4: 4 Miles
The coast is so dynamic in shape and weather that four days felt like four seasons. On the final Sunday morning of hiking, a thin layer of fog rose above the ocean, casting particular uncertainty on the miles ahead. We awoke to an unexpected noise from a group of “powered paragliders,” who use backpack motors to fly over the mountains and beaches.
At this point, we only had a short 4 mile hike to get back to Shelter Cove, the nearest town and the site of our parked car. The day’s grayscale gradient gave the final stretch a dramatic feel. After three days of hik ing on sand and slippery rocks, we were not tired of it. The Lost Coast Trail is the perfect amount of physical difficulty; and if you take enough time, you can slowly traverse it and enjoy every bend, beach, and bluff. If anything, the final stretch was our most energetic — fueled by the imminent promise of real food and a cold beer at Shelter Cove’s Gyppos brewery.
Our last obstacle was to navigate the infamous Split Rock, which is known for dangerous sneaker waves and the occasional fatality. By hiking up and around it, we passed this final warning zone, and savored the last stretch of utter privacy and natural wonder of this incredible place.
Hiking the Lost Coast in early September 2022
was very good fortune. Elsewhere in California, a record heat wave and wildfires endangered people and ecosystems. But the heat wave inland coincided with a time when the coastline was just about as temperate and clear as it ever is. Our packed raincoats proved to be extraneous, as we didn’t feel a drop of the more than 100 inches of rain that batters this area each year.
We were maybe most lucky to be hiking during a full moon. On our second night, a stunning blood orange moon peeked out from behind the King Range mountains, casting its glow on the beaches of Big Flat. It was the only night clear enough to see the moon — the grand emergence of a hidden force influencing the entire trip. We had the moon’s gravity (not to mention the sun’s) to thank for the rising tides we avoided, and the receding tides we took advantage of.
Tides. I had never given them so much attention. The rhythmic wave pattern. The precise predict ability. The incredible interplay between the earth’s rotation and the gravitational pulls of the moon and the sun. When we observe the tides, we can feel these forces greater than human control.
Each day, the ocean takes two long breaths. It inhales. The tide rises. It exhales. The tide falls. Inhale, rise. Exhale, fall.
Over four days on the Lost Coast, we lived in sync with eight oceanic breaths.
DECEMBER
3 Month Planner
Winter Events Around the Bay Area
CULTURE
December 8-27
FOOD AND DRINK
December 3-4
Celebrate Holidays in the Vineyards! Local wineries — including Cuda Ridge Wines, Wente Vineyards, Retzlaff Vineyards and Del Valle Winery — will be ringing in the season with beautifully decorated tasting rooms, special wines, festive music and more. lvwine.org
December 15
Watch — and taste — all the goodness at the second annual Bardessono Latke Throw Down at the Yountville Community Center. All proceeds will go to ParentsCAN Napa. bardessono.com
The San Francisco Ballet Company was the first to put on the Nutcracker back in 1944 — see 65 live orchestra members perform Tchaikovsky’s score this season at the historic War Memorial Opera House. sfballet.org
Thru December 19
Enter the winding lanes of Victorian London and immerse yourself in a world of music halls, pubs and charming shops at the Great Dickens Christmas Fair, held at the Cow Palace in Daly City. dickensfair.com
Thru December 24
A Christmas Carol is a decadeslong cornerstone of the American Conservatory Theater (A.C.T.) in San
rSan Francisco Ballet Company
Francisco. This version — adapted by Paul Walsh and Carey Perloff — stays true to the heart of the time less story of redemption and brings a playful sensibility. act-sf.org
SPORTS
December 11
Watch the San Francisco 49ers take on the Tampa Bay Buccaneers at Levi’s Stadium in Santa Clara. 49ers.com
It’s officially ice rink season! Whether you head to Marin’s Skate Escape in San Rafael, or visit one of the holiday ice rinks in Union Square or at the Embarcadero Center, it’s sure to be a fun time for all.
Volunteer anywhere with Project in a Box HandsOn Bay Area will mail you a box with all the supplies and instructions, plus a pre-paid shipping label so you can send the finished project back. The group will find a benefiting charity and deliver the items. handson bayarea.org
JANUARY
FOOD AND DRINK
January 13-16
Learn firsthand from experts
about the gastronomy, science, history, mystery, and hunting and harvesting of the highly prized Périgord black truffle at the Napa Truffle Festival napatrufflefestival.com
January 14-15
Enjoy a weekend of wine tasting, meeting winemakers and sampling limited production wines along at Winter Wineland in Sonoma County, throughout Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Valley. wineroad.com
CULTURE
January 6-7
Experience Jurassic Park as never before — projected in HD with a full orchestra performing John Williams’ iconic score live to picture at the San Francisco Symphony. sfsymphony.org
January 18
REO Speedwagon is set to bring their timeless hits and rock radio staples — including “Keep On Loving You” — to the San Jose Civic. sanjosetheaters.org
January 20-February 5
Enjoy two and a half weeks of com edy sketches and performances by well known comedians at SF Sketchfest, one of the largest comedy festivals. sfsketchfest.com
SPORTS
January 16
Watch the San Jose Sharks face off on the ice versus the New Jersey Devils. nhl.com/sharks
January 22
Gather your family and friends and celebrate Lunar New Year with the Golden State Warriors as they face off against the Brooklyn Nets at Chase Center. nba.com/warriors
Interested in making your neighborhood more resilient? Help-A-Neighbor Group (HANG) is a network of neighbors with the common goal of being the first line of response to help each other during an emergency. californiavolunteers.ca.gov
FEBRUARY
FOOD AND DRINK
February 10-19
Get excited, beer lovers! The biggest celebration of Bay Area craft beer is returning to wow you with the best brews around at SF Beer Week . sfbeerweek.org
February 24-March 5
Experience 10 days of exclusive specials at local restaurants and wineries at the Taste Tri-Valley Restaurant Week visittrivalley.com
CULTURE
February 24-March 5
Come see Giselle, an unforget table journey filled with passion, betrayal, and forgiveness, at the San Francisco Ballet . sfballet.org
February 10-12
Celebrate the return of over one million shorebirds and hundreds of thousands of other migratory birds on Mare Island in Vallejo at the 28th San Francisco Bay Flyway Festival . sfbayflywayfestival.com
February 20-26
Check out concerts, art shows and
films all over San Francisco and the East Bay at the 30th annual Noise Pop Music & Arts Festival. noisepop.com
SPORTS
February 18
Support those affected by NF, a genetic disorder that causes tumors to grow on nerves throughout the body, by taking part in Cupid’s Undie Run in San Francisco. my.cupids.org
Soccer season is upon us! Cheer for the San Jose Earthquakes, one of only three professional soccer teams in the state. sjearthquakes.com
r
SF Beer Week, Pond Farm v
Taste Tri-Valley Restaurant Week
Save The Bay has been preserving and restoring thousands of acres of wetlands since 1961. From transplanting native seedlings to removing harmful invasive species, volunteers are essential to the success of this work. savesfbay.org
CL A SSIC ELEGANCE ON NOB HILL
Trail Blazers
California Trail Blazers
Is
it the
soil,
the air, the
vibe? What is it about California that makes it arguably the most famous of the 50 states and fifth largest economy in the world? Ac cording to the Real California Cheese campaign, it’s the sunshine. Could be, but there is something pretty darn special about the 31st state. Living in California seems to encourage innovation, inspire visionaries to actualize their visions and wow the world. From the early days when the miners of gold needed clothes tough enough to endure extreme weather and rugged terrain, a businessman named Levi Strauss solved this problem and his red-tabbed den im became recognized internationally as a symbol of quality. A fantasy-minded youth named Walt not only imagined the happiest place on earth, but fostered the Imagineer ing division of his eponymous company, which is now responsible for the creation, design, and construction of Disney theme parks and attractions worldwide. Speaking of imagination — would anyone have thought we could hold the whole world in our hands? Steve Jobs did. And yep, California was his home. Let us introduce you to some fellow dynamic Californians.
Eva Claiborne Beauty & Wellness
Eva Claiborne | Master Esthetician
Schooled in the renowned Hungarian tradition of effective skincare therapy, Eva Claiborne is an innovative and experienced Master Esthetician and Perioperative Aesthetic Specialist with over forty years of experience. Eva provides the highest level of skincare and spa services, designed to achieve and maintain healthy beautiful skin from head to toe. In addition to her extensive European and American training, Eva has developed her own approach to skincare and launched a comprehensive line of pre- and post-operative products for plastic surgery patients — TITOK naturals®. TITOK naturals® patent-pending Pre & Post Operative Wellness Treatments were formulated alongside top dermatologists and plastic surgeons to address all patient needs. The line is a result of decades of experience on a global scale that embodies Eva’s unique philosophy — people need to be more gentle with their skin. Instead of stripping the skin with harsh products, a regimen of non-abrasive products and custom treatments will bring overall well-being, both before and after cosmetic procedures and surgery. The treatments are beneficial for both elective and required surgeries.
Eva Claiborne • 415.435.4326
evaclaiborne@gmail.com • tiburonskincare.com
Qs
Do you have any winter skincare tips?
Winter is hard on the skin. We spend more time in dry, heated indoor air, and when outdoors, wind and cold dry the skin. I recommend using Titok Naturals Calming Kit at night, combined with Titok Antioxidant Serum to provide support for the skin. Even though the days are shorter, always apply SPF 40+ at the beginning of the day.
What advice do you have for those new to treatments of any kind? Where should they start? What’s important to know?
When I see a new client, we design the treatment programs together for their particular skin. I like to offer a series of HydraFacial treatments to start with, and then an appropriate, simple athome regimen. After the skin has healed and rejuvenated, we start a maintenance program. The timing of starting the maintenance phase depends on how quickly the skin improves. The program may include treatments like microneedling to improve skin texture, wrinkles and acne scars. A simple program of regular Hydrafacials may also be appropriate.
What are some body treatments for winter wellness?
When skin on the body is scaly and dry, I like to offer a golden body sugar scrub to exfoliate and prepare the skin for deeper hydration. The next step is to rehydrate the skin with a nourishing body gel mask. Finally, we finish with a gentle stone massage to improve and stimulate the lymphatic system, and finish with a relaxing scalp massage to release tension.
What do you hope for in 2023?
I would like to grow my business and keep my clients happy with healthy, beautiful skin. In May we’re visiting one of the most famous thermal spas in Hungary. I’ve been visiting this spa since I was a little girl, and it never disappoints — you can find more information on my site if you’d like to join us.
Trail Blazers
Qs
What sets you apart from your competition?
Mission Atelier jewelry designs are truly unique, commercially appealing and full of spiritual meaning all at the same time. We also give a percentage of profits to a great mindfulness education charity called Mission Be.
Is there something about your circumstance/upbringing that prepared you or set you up for success?
Mission Atelier Bobby London | Founder
Founded in 2016 by Bobby London, Mission Atelier creates fine jewelry and accessories for both men and women ranging from necklaces to cufflinks and everything in between. London’s vision initially began with a clean and abstract symbol that embodied all the elements of his design aesthetic — reimagining traditional pieces as works of art and exploration of scale, proportion and white space. Each collection could be considered minimalist beauty with a purpose.
Mission Atelier wares can be found in a number of high-end retailers in San Francisco, Palm Springs and online.
Mission
My mom took me shopping at Barneys New York way too young, and instilled an appreciation for luxury and design that has only grown over time. My great grandfather was also a watchmaker and jeweler, so maybe it’s also in the DNA.
What are your thoughts on growing and expanding your business?
I’m very excited and optimistic. I have a lot of spiritual knowledge I’d like to share, and great ideas for communicating it through fine jewelry and luxury — which also happens to be the mission of Mission Atelier: to increase consciousness through fine jewelry and luxury.
We want to increase consciousness through fine jewelry and luxury. ”
Morpheus Medical Aesthetics
Marisha Chilcottt, MD Physician & Provider
A true trailblazer in medicine and life, Dr. Marisha Chilcott started her medical career as an emergency room doctor and later joined a family practice in Santa Rosa. Chilcott has stayed on the pulse of healthcare throughout her evolving well ness journey, which now includes two locations of Morpheus Medical Aesthetics as well as Be the Change in Mental Health (BTC), a clinic in Santa Rosa that offers effective new approaches to mental wellness. Morpheus Medical Aesthetics opened in 2009 and has a loyal following in Santa Rosa and Larkspur. Always on the cusp of the latest vetted and approved modalities for wellness and living one’s best life, her motto is “You don’t need to be sick to want to be more well.” Morpheus Medical Aesthetics • 415.924.1330 info@morpheusmedspa.com • morpheusmedspa.com
QsWhat are you most excited about?
At Morpheus, I’m super excited about a new product called Vitti Pure, that is produced from donated umbilical cords. Umbilical tissue contains a high concentration of exosomes that carry the signaling factors that tell the body to heal or grow. These signals thus stimulate cells throughout the body to behave like young cells. I have been using it to address areas that are notoriously hard to treat, such as the crepey skin under eyes and cheeks. The product is so new, manufacturers don’t have specific protocols.
Is anyone else doing this? Not that I know of in the North Bay, but there are several pioneering aesthetics physicians across the country exploring this new modality. I have found success mixing it with fillers and Sculptra to get improved results. The fun part is the results are immediate. We are also seeing success with promoting hair restoration.
Is this the same concept as the PRP (platelet rich plasma) a.k.a. Vampire facials?
Yes, the same idea, in that we irritate the subdermal tissue, and then add a biological activator to repair the injury site, but compared to adult platelet cells [extracted for a PRP facial], exosomes from an umbilical cord contain nearly three times the amount of growth factors.
Is it safe to inject stem cells from another human?
That is a great question and the answer is no one really knows. To be clear, VittiPure is not stem cells, but rather extracellular matrices. There are no live cells being injected, just the cytokines and other growth factors that promote positive change.
Trail Blazers
Golf Retreats in Paradise
Paul Gorman | PGA Professional
At the age of 10, Paul Gorman got hooked on golf. He found he excelled at the sport and eventually made it his career path. For the past 25 years, Gorman has taught golf at local courses including the Meadow Club and Peacock Gap. During that time he has observed all levels of players which helped him develop his teaching technique: to give students a set of principles, use what they have naturally and enhance their game from that point. The most recent evolution in his career is curating group golf trips to Puerto Vallarta, where players get to enjoy beautiful oceanfront accommodations, play championship golf courses while experiencing both driving range and on course instruction. Optional paddle boarding and yoga are also on the itinerary. Feedback from those who have gone on these trips is it’s a relaxing and fun-filled vacation with the bonus of improving your golf game — participants say, “It’s absolutely a game changer with Paul at your side on the golf course.”
Qs
Where did your passion for golf originate?
My father was my inspiration. He taught me how to be a home run hitter in Little League and then I discovered I could hit a golf ball three times as far — game on! From there my passion became an obsession in a good way. In my early 20s I shot my first 67 on a par 72. I decided to become a PGA Professional at 32 and by 35 was voted PGA Section Teacher of the Year.
Who are your golf inspirations?
Nick Faldo, Annika Sörenstam, Tiger Woods, Greg Norman (great white shark). Hank Haney and David Leadbetter are the 2 top coaches in golf I trained under. There was a match between Nick Faldo and Greg Norman in Jamaica that was incredible and really got me fired up for competition.
Why did you decide to lead golf tours in Puerto Vallarta?
Puerto Vallarta — the jewel of Mexico! I have found that people learn best when away from their home and work and are in a beautiful and relaxing setting. You get picked up at the airport and in five minutes are walking into the resort for your first sunset fiesta. This is a golfing oasis with two championship golf courses designed by Jack Nicklaus and Tom Weiskopf and it’s only a threeand-a-half-hour direct flight from SFO. The excellent staff and beauty of the facilities are off the charts. Instruction on the range happens every morning and then I guide you through 18 holes each golf day — that is how you learn best.
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People learn best when away from their home and work and are in a beautiful and relaxing setting.
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Thanks to its Mediterranean climate and an abundance of farms, ranches, and artisanal producers, California is a year-round food basket — and winter is no exception. An array of seasonal produce, handcrafted delicacies, and sustainably-sourced meats provide inspiration for home cooking throughout the cold weather months. From a warming stew to a rustic oozing fruit tart, winter food doesn’t get fresher, tastier, or more satisfying than this.
Alpine Cheese Fondue
Alpine cheeses, such as Gruyère, Raclette, and Emmental, are classic fondue ingredi ents. Northern California’s Nicasio Valley Cheese Company handcrafts organic, farmstead, artisan cheese using authentic, traditional Swiss recipes from the alpine village of Maggia. Their San Geronimo washed rind cheese resembles a cross between Fontina and Raclette, which are both excellent melting cheeses and stand up well to the spirited flavors in this rich fondue. nicasiocheese.com
SERVES 6
1/4 cup Calvados brandy 3 tablespoons cornstarch 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
3 cups dry, un-oaked white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 large garlic clove, minced 1 1/2 pounds alpine-style melting cheese, coarsely grated
1 loaf country style or levain bread, cut in 3/4-inch cubes
1 Have all your ingredients ready before you begin. Once you start cooking, the fon due will come together quickly, and during this time it must be constantly stirred.
2 Whisk the Calvados, cornstarch, salt, black pepper, and nutmeg in a small bowl,
until smooth. Set aside.
3 Combine the wine and garlic in a large heavy saucepan, Dutch oven, or fondue pot. Heat over medium heat until tiny bubbles form, giving the wine a fizzy appearance, without coming to a boil.
4 Add the cheese, one handful at a time, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until each handful is melted before adding the next. When all the cheese is added, continue stirring for about one minute to slightly thicken — do not let the fondue boil during this entire process.
5 Stir in the cornstarch mixture and continue to stir until the cheese thickens to a fondue consistency. (Note: Some cornstarch brands thicken more easily than others. If your fondue remains thin, whisk 1 more tablespoon cornstarch with 2 tablespoons white wine and stir into the cheese.)
6 When the fondue is ready, remove from the heat. Pour the cheese into a warm fondue pot if necessary and place over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with extra ground pepper, the bread, and parboiled vegetables such as small potatoes, cauliflower, and broccoli florets.
Beef Bourguignon à la California
Beef bourguignon is a classic beef stew, named for the wine-rich region of Burgundy, France. It’s a delicious one-pot dinner perfect for a cold night or an aprèsski meal, with slow cooked chunks of meat
swimming in a fragrant stew of red wine. While French tradition relies on using a burgundy wine or Pinot Noir for the base of the stew, California’s wine country pres ents numerous varietals and red blends for local inspiration, such as a heavy bodied Pinot Noir, Cabernet, Merlot, or Syrah. The wine needn’t be pricey, but it should certainly be quaffable before you pour it into the pot.
For the meat, look to California’s ranches that provide grass fed, sustainable meat for great flavor and best practices. Stemple Creek Ranch is a 4th generation family ranch in Tomales, Marin County. Their regenerative, organic agricultural practices enhance and rehabilitate their entire ecosystem by focusing on soil health and increasing carbon in the land, and their beef are grass fed and finished. stemplecreek.com
SERVES 6 Stew:
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 to 3 pounds beef chuck, excess fat trimmed, meat cut into 1 1/2 to 2-inch chunks Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup Cognac or Calvados
2 carrots, chopped
1 yellow onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 (750-ml) bottle full-bodied red wine
1 cup beef or chicken stock
4 thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Vegetables: Olive oil
8 ounces cremini or white mushrooms, ends trimmed, halved (or quartered if large) Kosher salt
1 to 2 medium carrots, peeled, sliced 1/2-inch thick
8 ounces pearl onions, peeled (optional)
1 Heat the oven to 300°F. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven or oven-proof pot with a lid over medi um-high heat. Season the beef with salt and pepper. Working in batches, add the beef to the pan, without overcrowding, and brown on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and repeat until all the beef is browned.
2 Add the cognac to the pot and deglaze, stirring up any brown bits. Reduce by half, and then pour the cognac over the reserved beef.
3 Add 1 tablespoon oil, the carrots, onion, and garlic to the pot and sauté over medium heat until the vegetables soften without browning, 3 to 4 minutes. Return the beef and cognac to the pot. Add the wine, stock, thyme, bay leaves,
and tomato paste. The beef should be submerged in the stock. Add more stock or wine if needed.
4 Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat, cover the pot and transfer to the oven. Cook until the meat is very tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours, stirring every hour or so.
5 Place a sieve over a large saucepan. Carefully pour the stew into the sieve and strain the liquid into the saucepan. Separate the chunks of meat from the vegetables and set the meat aside. Press down on the remaining vegetables in the sieve to extract as much juice into the drained liquid as possible and then dis card the mashed vegetables.
6 Boil the liquid until the sauce is reduced by about one-third and slightly thickened, about 20 minutes, skimming the fat from the surface. Stir in the bal samic vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return the beef to the sauce. (Note: At this point the stew may be made one to two days in advance. Cool, then cover and refrigerate over night. One hour before serving, remove from the refrigerator, discard any col lected fat from the surface of the stew,
and prepare the vegetables.)
7 Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, lightly season with salt, and sauté until light golden but not too soft, 3 to 4 min utes. Transfer to a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon oil to the same skillet, then add the carrots and onions and sauté until bright in color and crisp-tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the mushrooms.
8 Add the vegetables to the stew and simmer over medium heat to heat through, 10 to 15 minutes. Ladle the stew into warm bowls and serve.
Blood CrostatasOrange
with Salted Caramel Sauce
Citrus is abundant in the winter, which means it’s time to indulge in California’s blood oranges. Sweet and tart, murky and winey, the blood orange is more nuanced than its navel counterpart with a brilliant purple hue that will brighten up any dessert.
Blood oranges thrive in the Mediterranean, and California, with its Mediterranean-like climate, is a primary source of blood oranges. Moro are the most common type of blood orange. They are small with a mottled burgundy-fuchsia flesh, which is the centerpiece of these rus tic mini-crostatas.
MAKES 6 TO 8 MINI-CROSTATAS
For the crust:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut in cubes
1/2 cup sour cream
For the filling: 8 ounces mascarpone cheese, room temperature
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom Pinch of ground cinnamon 2 navel oranges, skin and pith cut away, sliced crosswise, about 1/4-inch thick 3 blood oranges, skin and pith cut away, seeded and sliced crosswise, about 1/4-inch thick, each slice cut into 3 to 4 sections 1 egg, lightly whisked Demarra sugar, for sprinkling
1 Make the crust: Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food pro cessor. Briefly pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse to achieve a crumbly consistency. Add the sour cream and pulse a few times until the dough just begins to stick together. Turn the dough out onto a piece of plastic wrap and
shape into a disk. Wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour.
2 Heat the oven to 400°F.
3 Whisk the mascarpone, sugar, vanilla, cardamom, and cinnamon in a small bowl to lighten and combine.
4 Remove the dough from the refriger ator and divide into 6 to 8 equal portions. Roll out each portion in a circle about 5 to 6 inches in diameter and 1/4-inch thick. Place a tablespoon of mascarpone in the center of the dough, spreading it slightly, while keep ing about 1 inch clear around the border of the dough. Place a navel orange slice in the center. Top with 3 to 4 blood orange sections. Fold the exposed edges of the dough in around the oranges, shaping and pinching to create a rim of crust (the centers will still be exposed). Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment and repeat
this process with the remaining dough.
5 Brush the pastry dough with the egg and sprinkle each crostata with about 1 tea spoon demarra sugar. Transfer to the oven and bake until the crusts are firm to the touch and golden brown, about 45 minutes. Remove and cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature, with salted caramel sauce, if desired (recipe below).
This recipe is adapted from The Kitchn.
Salted Caramel Sauce
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP SAUCE
1 cup granulated sugar
6 tablespoons European-style unsalted butter,
room temperature, cut into 4 pieces 1/2 cup heavy cream, room temperature 1 teaspoon sea salt flakes, such as Maldon
1 Pour the sugar into a large heavy-bot tomed saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until the sugar melts, whisking occa sionally and swirling the pan to ensure even cooking. The sugar may clump, but that’s ok — keep stirring until it melts. When the sugar is the color of dark amber, carefully whisk in the butter (it will foam).
2 Remove the pan from the heat and slowly pour in the cream (it will foam again) and whisk until smooth. Add the salt. Cool for about 10 minutes and then pour into a glass jar and cool to room temperature. The sauce may be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
Local Getaways
2 022 Getties
Readers’ Choice
Tahoe Getties
With its cool, cobalt-blue water, Lake Tahoe is North America’s largest alpine lake. This 22-mile long, 12-mile wide area is surrounded by 16 small communities, and acts as a magnet for visitors and locals seeking a winter wonderland and a year-round playground. There are 15 ski and snowboarding areas with nearly 150 lifts in California and Nevada resorts, with altitudes between 5,000 and 10,000 feet, 71 miles of shoreline, and hiking and biking trails abound. There is also an abundance of accommodations and vast amounts of dining and entertain ment choices from Truckee to the South Shore. Consider this your fail-safe guide to the region — Readers’ Choice selections are bolded.
BREAKFAST
Smokey’s Kitchen (Truckee)
Donner Lake Kitchen (Truckee)
Wild Cherries Coffee House (Truckee)
Fire Sign Cafe (West Shore)
Tahoe House Bakery and Gourmet (West Shore)
Glazed and Confuzed (South Shore)
The Red Hut Cafe (South Shore)
Pep’s Place (North Shore)
Sage Leaf (North Shore)
LUNCH
Red Truck (Truckee)
New Moon Natural Foods (Truckee)
r Sierra Bakehouse, Truckee
Bert’s Cafe (South Shore)
Sprouts Cafe (South Shore)
Chambers Landing (West Shore)
West Shore Market (West Shore)
Jason’s (North Shore)
Waterman’s Landing (North Shore)
DINNER
Gar Woods (North Shore)
Soule Domain (North Shore)
Edgewood Restaurant (South Shore)
Kalani’s (South Shore)
Moody’s (Truckee)
Old Town Tap (Truckee)
Sunnyside Restaurant (West Shore)
West Shore Café (West Shore)
DESSERT
Susie Scoops (North Shore)
Cool Mess Ice Cream & Coffee (North Shore)
Sierra Bakehouse (Truckee)
Where We Met (West Shore)
Richardson’s Ice Cream Parlor (West Shore)
Tahoe City Chocolates (West Shore)
The Baked Bear (South Shore)
Stayw
LUXURY
The Ritz-Carlton
The Lodge at Edgewood
The Landing Resort & Spa
Cedar House Sport Hotel
PlumpJack Inn
Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe
Desolation Hotel
Wylder Hope Valley
VALUE
PlayPark Lodge
Basecamp Tahoe South & Tahoe City
Station House Inn
Camp Richardson
Truckee Hotel
The Cottage Inn
GROUP GETAWAY
Marriott’s Timber Lodge
Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe
The Ritz-Carlton
Basecamp Tahoe South & Tahoe City
Camp Richardson
Truckee Hotel
Sunnyside Lodge
Wylder Hope Valley
Coachman Tahoe
Cedar Crest Cottages
Granlibakken
r
Basecamp Tahoe City
China’s Social Salon
By Jim WoodBASICALLY, IT’S A ROOM; A BIG, fancy room. Yet it’s where this room has traveled — and how it wound up on a dock in the Marin County town of Belvedere — that make this a captivating story. In 1866, the paddle-wheeled steamer China was launched in New York City. After sailing around South America to San Francisco, China began carrying passengers to Japan and stopped in Hong Kong, a round-trip of over 12,000 nautical miles that meant spending 63 days at sea. China made an astonishing 31 such round-trip journeys, and vintage photographs show her having a multi-windowed “Social Salon” on her top deck just aft of the two steam-powered paddle wheels. The salon was used for receptions, religious services and as the ship’s library. But in 1886, the outdated paddle-wheeled steamer China was scrapped and burned in a Tiburon dismantling yard; only the glamorous social salon was saved. Sensing opportunity, a local retired sea captain bought it, put it on jury-rigged pilings along Belvedere’s scenic shoreline and
rented out as a cabin. Fast-forward 93 years to the mid-1970s; Belvedere is cleaning up its waterfront and the rental cabin, which was once a social salon, has to go. Enter Beverly Bastian and the Belvedere-Tiburon Landmarks Society. Instead of China’s once-magnificent cabin being carted away, Bastian and Landmarks — along with maritime historians, craftsmen and skilled volunteers — waged a decade-long campaign that resulted in it being carefully restored to its 1870s glamour and remaining in place on sturdy new pilings at 52 Beach Road in Belvedere. Those conversant with the restoration place its cost, including volunteer labor, at well over one million dollars. The China Cabin, with its etched glass windows, brass chandeliers and gold-leafed escutch eons and finials, was opened to the public in 1986 and is now available on a rental basis for seminars, receptions and wed dings. Additionally, Landmarks Docents provide tours and share the story of the cabin Saturday and Sundays, 1pm to 4pm, April through October. landmarkssociety.com