Marin Magazine December 2015

Thank You, From All of Us to All of You—May Your Days be Merry and Bright!

IT’S A LONG JOURNEY TO BECOME THE ONE.

In our constant pursuit of absolute beauty, every Forevermark ® diamond undergoes a journey of rigorous selection. This is why less than one percent of the world’s diamonds are worthy of the Forevermark ® inscription –our promise of beauty, rarity and responsible sourcing.

Living at LUMINA in the heart of San Francisco means you may not need to own a car. But should you wish to go for a drive and explore the Bay Area, you can take advantage of Audi at home. Whether you’re looking for a stylish convertible for a coastal drive or an SUV for a trip to Tahoe, the choice is yours with Audi at home - exclusively for LUMINA residents.

In Marin

Currents Sustainable trees, stellar schools, honeybees and more.

Reading List Growing up Guittard.

On the Job Ready for the holidays.

Made by Marin Going gluten-free.

Style Sparkle and shine.

Conversation Running the Marin Community Foundation. Destinations

Go The wonders of the mega ski pass.

Travel Buzz Plan the perfect getaway.

Journey Music and more in London.

Out

& About

Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond.

Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area.

Flavor A seasonal scones recipe.

On the Scene Snapshots from special events in Marin and San Francisco.

Marin

Home

Backstory The author’s life in Homestead Valley.

Looking Back For the staff here at Marin Magazine, the star atop this tree represents the excellence we try to bring to every issue, every year. We hope you agree and we look forward to delivering even more great coverage next year. Happy holidays.

JOAN MARCUS (TOP LEFT); TIM PORTER (TOP RIGHT)

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood Editorial

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mimi Towle

MANAGING EDITOR Daniel Jewett

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Bay Area events you’ll want to attend

ICB WINTER OPEN STUDIOS

WHEN WHERE WHY YOU SHOULD GO COST

December 5–6, 11 a.m.–6 p.m.

Industrial Center Building (ICB), 480 Gate 5 Road, Sausalito

The 47th annual ICB Winter Open Studios is taking wing with a migration theme. More than 100 artists will show their art and hand-cut butterflies under the direction of paper artist Ingrid Butler. Some donated art revenue will go to Doctors Without Borders. Produced by the ICB Artists Association. Free icbartists.com

Friend us to share and view RSVP Hot Ticket photos at facebook.com/marinmagazine

Want to see all the images from our RSVP Hot Ticket events? marinmagazine.com/hotticket

Kirsten Jones Neff Writer, “London” (p. 84)

Kirsten Jones Neff s a journalist who writes about all things North Bay, with special attention to the environment and the region’s farmers, winemakers and food artisans. She also works and teaches in school gardens. Neff ’s poetry collection When the House Is Quiet was nominated for a Northern California Book Award, and three of her poems received Pushcart nominations. She lives in Novato with her husband and three children and tries to spend as much time as possible on our local mountains, beaches and waterways. For more on her work visit kirstenjonesneff.com.

Victor Volta Writer/Photographer, “A Hiker’s Paradise” (p. 58)

Victor Volta is an Alameda-based nature and landscape photographer and writer. In recent years he’s become an avid hiker, backpacker and naturalist. When not hiking in the Sierras, he can often be found photographing Mount Tamalpais’ trails. He is the author of a self-published book, Mountain Soul, and has just finished a manuscript chronicling his six attempts to complete the day hike of Mount Whitney. See more of his work at themountainjournals.wordpress.com.

Matthew Poole Writer, “Snowmads” (p. 79)

For the past 20 years Matthew Poole has been one of the most prolific travel writers in the world, authoring 22 guidebooks for Frommer’s, Simon & Schuster, Macmillan, Penguin Books and Berlitz. He also has been known to drive great distances to hit the slopes. Through his travel blogs, books, magazine articles and thousands of reviews, he hopes to inspire people to explore the world around them.

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WE START OFF features this month with the third in an occasional series about historic Marin architecture. After giving us the backstory on the Marin Civic Center and Julia Morgan’s Marin contributions, architectural writer Mark Anthony Wilson dives into the fascinating history and current struggles in Marin City.

Next up, writer and photographer Victor Volta takes readers on a beautiful photographic journey through the twists and turns of the 211-mile John Muir Trail. He also offers tips on everything from food to the necessary gear and permits.

Finally, our own Kasia Pawlowska discovers the true spirit of the season and takes a look at 31 organizations in Marin that are fi nding ways to help residents who are less fortunate. Any one of these organizations could benefit from your gift of time or resources as the year comes to an end.

Up front we’ve got stories on resources for sustainable holiday trees, the return of the honeybee and trailblazing Marin schools. We also introduce you to a holiday baker, a local gluten-free maker and the man behind the Marin Community Foundation — an organization that distributes more than $65 million annually to worthy causes in Marin and the world.

In Destinations we introduce you to the wonders of the skiing mega pass and invite you to experience music, food and shopping in London.

It’s a big issue full of holiday cheer and inspiring stories to close out the year. We hope you enjoy it and we look forward to providing you more of the same in 2016.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

We’ve had a great year producing stories and features about all things Marin. It is our hope you’ve enjoyed the local coverage and also appreciated our special summer and Mill Valley Film Festival guides. Marin is truly a special place to work and live in and we are grateful to call it home. Happy holidays from the entire Marin Magazine staff.

JACK WOLFORD (TOP); JOSH DURRENBERGER (BOTTOM)

Any one of these organizations could benefit from your gift of time or resources as the year comes to an end.

Marin Magazine Staff Editors

Above, from left: Mimi Towle, Nikki Wood, Dan Jewett

Finding the right home is more than the square footage and number of rooms. It is about your quality of life and how you live outside those walls. Carey Hagglund Condy is one of the most respected luxury real estate agents in Marin County and one of its most passionate residents. She provides a unique and personal perspective to living in Marin County, with unparalleled knowledge, standard of care and attention to detail to help guide your journey to the perfect home.

Homeless in Marin

A San Rafael resident has an idea for resolving a vexing problem.

drew “nothing but a positive response,” he says: a message proposing a solution to the homelessness problem not only in Marin, but also in Sonoma County and possibly even beyond.

BY JIM WOOD

IREAD ABOUT HUGO Landecker in the local press. He’s the San Rafael resident who has a controversial plan to reduce, if not eliminate, homelessness in the city where he and his wife, Cynthia, have lived for 48 years. Last Tuesday, I met with him to hear him out. “This is the fi rst time I’ve done anything this big,” Landecker told me. “It could be a model that would solve homelessness nationwide.”

They’re only nibbling away at this enormous problem; they’re not solving it. You might even call them enablers.

A recent nationally mandated census indicated that more than 1,300 homeless people are in Marin, most of them in San Rafael. “That’s up 40 percent from 2013,” Landecker pointed out. “They range from truly needy to drug and alcohol addicted to young people who have lost their way to the mentally and physically handicapped.”

According to him, the homeless in San Rafael are drawn to the Ritter Center, a nonprofit off Second Street offering showers, mailboxes and medical services, and St. Vincent de Paul’s dining room on B Street, which serves up to 400 free meals a day, 365 days a year. “But like so many well-meaning countywide efforts,” Landecker insists, these facilities are “only nibbling away at this enormous problem; they’re not solving it. You might even call them enablers.”

To be brutally direct, Landecker would like to see both endeavors, over time, closed, or at least relocated out of downtown San Rafael. His overall goal, he maintains, is to see the homeless become productive members of society.

In the years he’s been observing homelessness in San Rafael, Landecker has gathered an online following of nearly 500 people who for the most part agree with him. “Every day of the week, for over three years I’ve sent out an email with an update on San Rafael’s growing problem,” he says. Those receiving his briefings include not only residents but county supervisors, state legislators and Ritter and St. Vincent de Paul officials. A typical email will generate 20 to 30 replies, some agreeing, others disagreeing with his information and claims. However, in June he sent out one that

“Think of a Sonoma/Marin homeless campus that doesn’t have to be built, because it already exists,” Landecker’s email said. “The Sonoma Developmental Center presents the opportunity of a lifetime for those hoping to recover from homelessness.” The center — with numerous buildings on 1,660 acres near the town of Glen Ellen — has been serving people with developmental disabilities for 50 years and is slated for closure by 2018, as its population has dropped to fewer than 400. “The state has allocated $50 million to relocate those patients,” Landecker wrote.

To help homeless people get to the Sonoma center, he proposes this plan: “Each city in both counties would have small intake offices where those wanting help would check into and receive free transportation.” He envisions the place as “a park-like facility offering food, shelter, medical assistance, drug and alcohol recovery programs and job training — all of the services that are currently being provided by numerous nonprofits such as Ritter Center and St Vincent.” Landecker has toured the developmental center and presented his general concept to State Sen. Mike McGuire’s sta ff, as well as Marin County Supervisors Damon Connolly and Katie Rice. He is serious about the idea, devoting many waking hours to exploring and advocating it.

I can hear you now, saying, “Those people won’t go anywhere they don’t want to go.” But if the services that are now provided them are no longer available, you might see a signi ficant change in attitude. I can see how some would say these well-meaning nonprofits are not solving this multifaceted and growing problem; they are only accommodating it. Something must change before we lose our downtown businesses and neighborhood parks to those labeled “homeless.” Hugo Landecker’s concept defi nitely merits looking into. That’s my point of view. What’s yours?

Email pov@marinmagazine.com.

The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the policy or position of Marin Magazine and its staff.

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Connect WITH US

• online Holiday Recipes

If you’re craving new food ideas for seasonal entertaining, don’t miss the vast array of holiday recipes on our website. With tips from local chefs including Tyler Florence, Michael Mina and Todd Shoberg, we have your appetizers, entrées, cocktails and desserts covered. Be sure to tell us which dishes you’ve enjoyed by snapping a photo and tagging @marinmagazine on Instagram or Twitter. To access the recipes, go to marinmagazine.com/holidayrecipes.

Travel Tips

With only one month left in 2015, it’s not too early to plan next year’s getaway. If you need a little inspiration about where to vacation or staycation, Marin Magazine’s Travel 101 newsletter puts you in the know about places to go and things to see. Sign up at marinmagazine.com/ newsletter to get connected.

Get Covered

Are you a painter, illustrator or photographer? Then keep reading. Marin Magazine is pleased to announce its tenth annual cover contest. We are seeking work from outstanding artists who live in, show in or create images of the county. One lucky entrant will see his or her art on our May 2016 cover and have it featured along with finalists’ work in a story in the same issue. The deadline is March 1, 2016, and the competition is open to illustrators, painters and photographers. We look forward to seeing the entries. To enter, go to marinmagazine.com/getcovered.

TIM PORTER (TOP); JEFF YOUNG (CENTER)

NEW IN TOWN

» Marin is already a great place to live, and these new businesses are making it even more fun. Check out what’s new (or just getting better).

EAT

Bon Air Center in Greenbrae is now home to Patxi’s Pizza . Patxi’s has authentic deep-dish pizza and a family-friendly ambience; patxis pizza.com 1 Farm Burger expands beyond its current Berkeley location and offers build-yourown locally raised grass-fed burgers and more. Stop by its Red Hill Shopping Center location in San Anselmo; farmburger.net

OUT AND ABOUT

Having an airport charter service here in Marin is beneficial, especially with the holiday season upon us. 2 Marin Airporter has moved its main terminal (with long-term parking) to Anderson Drive in San Rafael; marinairporter. com Proof Lab has a new location in central San Rafael. Proof Lab sells popular skate brands and more; prooflab.com

To be considered for future listings, email lwalker@marinmagazine.com.

‘Tis the Season for Science

The reindeer are back! Meet our Arctic friends and learn how they adapt to extreme conditions in this one-of-a-kind interactive exhibit. Plus, enjoy indoor snow flurrie , music, and other festivities at our annual holiday exhibit.

Get tickets at calacademy.org

POV

Your Letters

Immigration Center

Jim Wood, I am writing about your October Looking Back article “Work in Progress.” I always enjoy photos of San Francisco Bay before the bridges and this one is no exception. What I regret is that you chose to flesh out the story with a mention of the “Angel Island Immigration Center,” which you characterized as an immigration center “processing” Asian immigrants. This is incorrect. It was an internment camp used to con fi ne and detain Japanese Americans (some of whom were U.S. citizens) and Chinese immigrants from about 1917 until 1940, when a fi re burnt down the Administration Building. I would have preferred a story about the four ships in the center of the photo. You describe them as battleships belonging to the U.S. Paci fic Fleet.

SUSAN J. DOREY, SONOMA, VIA EMAIL

DUI Feedback

Really? As a reader of Marin Magazine for the past 10 years, I am shocked and more than a little bit angered by the “DUI Timeline” story in your November issue. Instead of telling readers how they can “minimize the damage a DUI wreaks on your life ...,” perhaps a better use of content space would be to interview someone who has taken another life while driving under the in fluence. That might send a slightly less ambiguous message to the readership. Time to be a part of the solution rather than part of the problem, don’t you think?

ANNIE SHERMAN, LARKSPUR, VIA EMAIL

While I enjoyed the article on how to deal with a DUI (November 2015), there was some crucial advice that needed to be included: admit to nothing. Any admission, however inconsequential, will be used against you. My friend’s father, a DUI attorney, gave me this advice years ago and it’s saved me from at least three roadside tests from completely unwarranted DUI stops in Marin County (where driving after midnight is apparently all the excuse police need to pull someone over).

CRAIG MOORE, MILL VALLEY, VIA EMAIL

More Movie Misses

In your last Mill Valley Film Festival special issue (October) there was an article called “On Location” highlighting movie s fi lmed in

and around Marin. One that was not included was Breach of Contract that w as in the Mill Valley Festival in 1982 and featured scenes of Marin. It stared Cindy Pickett and included an up-and-coming local star named Peter Coyote.

Cat Clarification

In the November issue of Marin Magazine you ran an article called “Creature Comforts” that included some adoption resources — the Animal Sanctuary and Care Society was listed there. We wanted to thank you so much for acknowledging our organization in the community and bringing attention to the animals. I wanted to update you that we are only rescuing elderly cats when it’s possible. While we are grateful for the recognition, I would appreciate a retraction in next month’s issue so that your readers are not misled

ELEKTRA PERKINS, ASCS, SAUSALITO, VIA EMAIL

The Future Is Near

Jim Wood, that was a sensational POV (“Who’s Driving,” November). It’s absolutely fabulous to make us think and to introduce us to the thoughts of Bower and Ford. It’s a discussion that should be had around dining tables, during coffee breaks and at conferences. An interesting eye-opener. BARBARA BROOKIN, VIA EMAIL

High Value

I read with interest and amusement your editorial “Marin and the Death Penalty”(August, 2015). Your primary thesis is the death penalty is “barbaric,” yet you make no argument to support that case. W hen confronted about their positions, most liberals argue for convicted criminals to spend horrid, long lives in prison considering their crimes. Seems to me that is the far more barbaric position. The death penalty is a price that is stated before a heinous crime is committed. It is not vengeance. It is merely an attempt to place a high value on the lives of the law abiding. DAN PISENTI, MILL VALLEY, VIA EMAIL

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Your comments may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine , One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or email us at letters@marinmagazine com . Please include the town where you live and a daytime phone number.

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In Marin

CELEBRATING THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND CAUSES OF THIS UNIQUE COUNTY

O CHRISTMAS TREE

The way people adorn a Christmas tree says a lot about them. Do they monopolize the activity to ensure their aesthetic vision comes to life? Or is it a group activity where everyone pitches in? Both versions have their merits, but one aspect of the tradition people tend to agree on is that chopping down your own tree trumps all other means of acquisition. Fret not, these businesses are sustainable enterprises. Once you choose a tree and cut it down, the farmer will replace it with a new sapling to harvest in a few years. Also, while trees are growing on the farm, they create habitats for other living creatures and turn carbon dioxide into oxygen. Regardless of where you get your tree this season, be sure to log on to zerowastemarin.org to find out how and where to dispose of it once the celebrating is done. Visit marinmagazine. com/treefarm to find a complete list of local, sustainable tree farms. KASIA

PAWLOWSKA

THE NEXT SUPERFOOD

Trends go beyond fashion. There’s always a car that’s in vogue, a pet du jour and foods that are falling in and out of favor. Pomegranates used to reign supreme; now it’s kale. West Marin’s Living Seed Company (LSC) could be ground zero for the next trend. The company’s seed-totable dinners promote local, freshly harvested ingredients, now including a rare seed being grown in Point Reyes Station — the Inca Berry, brought over from Colombia last spring. “Its vigor has been aweinspiring,” says Astrid Lindo of LSC. Not only is this berry rich in beneficial vitamins like C, B and A, it’s also a great source of protein and is drought tolerant and resistant to most pests and diseases. Talk about a superfood. K.P.

The Kids Are All Right

Several new pioneering efforts on behalf of kids in Marin have rightfully drawn attention. From first in the country to first in the world, these local trailblazers are building a bright future for Marin youth. K.P.

1 Marin City District

With the help of The Conscious Kitchen, this school district became fi rst in the nation to serve its students 100 percent organic meals that are sustainably sourced and free of GMOs. Over a two-year period, disciplinary cases dropped and attendance rose.

2 The Buck Institute for Research on Aging

For the fi rst time, the Buck has begun offering access to its multimillion-dollar facilities through summer camps. In the 1,200-square-foot learning center, kids participate in science sessions geared to enhance what they’ve been learning at school and highlighting everyday uses of science in the workplace.

3 Vallecito Elementary

“Sitting is the new smoking” is a phrase you’ve likely heard before, and it’s no joke. Sitting increases diabetes and obesity rates, and this school is standing up to those figures — literally — by being fi rst in the world to give every student a standing desk.

George Lucas’ influence in Marin is undeniable. Whether people are documenting locations from his films throughout the county or speaking out against his building plans, it’s clear the famous dweller’s moves don’t go unnoticed. But his characters’ names show that Marin was influencing Lucas before he was such a big influencer here. Ewoks, though their names are actually never spoken in the Return of the Jedi, have Marin roots: Lucas says he came up with the name by reversing the syllables of “Wookie” and rhyming it with the tribe whose language has spawned many other names in our little part of the galaxy — Miwok. K.P.

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WHAT’S IN A NAME

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HONEYBEE COMEBACK

While overall agricultural production decreased between 2007 and 2009 in Marin, things have been looking up ever since, and the resurgence of the bee population mirrors this trend. Who’s been leading the bee efforts? Mostly amateur beekeepers, who have been saturating areas of the county with stock that helps repel parasitic mites. That effort, coupled with the county’s sustainability practices, pest and weed management, and the livestock protection program, has made for a winning year. In fact, every sector saw growth except nonorganic dairy. “If we were not in a drought, we believe the value of the [entire] organic industry would be much higher,” says county Agriculture Commissioner Stacy Carlsen. Here are the 2014 numbers. K.P.

BY THE NUMBERS

Sigmon’s Call

Picture this: you’re driving across the Golden Gate Bridge in the morning and turn the dial on the radio and hear, “We got a pileup on 880 that has triggered a SigAlert.” But what exactly is a SigAlert and why do we call it that? Back in the 1940s the LAPD would notify local radio reporter Loyd Sigmon about particularly bad accidents. Maybe he got sick of all the phone calls, because Sigmon ended up creating a special device that authorities could use to alert the media to particular tra ffic troubles. There was little faith in the invention initially, and the police chief at the time flippantly named it a “SigAlert.” Many years later, Caltrans latched on to the term, and a SigAlert has come to be known as any tra ffic incident that will tie up two or more lanes of a freeway for two or more hours. While most Southern California stations use the term, it isn’t a statewide convention. The most prominent station in the Bay Area utilizing it is KQED. K.P.

YOU CAN HELP

The holidays are a time when we take inventory of all the things we’re grateful for: a steady job, overcoming illness or injury, being surrounded by loved ones. There’s a stark difference between that list and that of those in less fortunate circumstances, like kids living in foster care in Marin. The Marin County Health and Human Services (HHS) is suffering a shortage of foster homes, so children are being placed with families outside the county — further reducing their chances for a physically and emotionally stable life. “It is important to note that the children are not in the system due to any fault of their own,” says Cindy Wasserman, a child welfare social worker for Marin County Health and Human Services. Children placed in foster homes can “blossom and grow in a stable foster home environment,” she adds. To meet this increasing need, the agency is holding orientations for prospective families every month at the Marin Health and Wellness Campus in San Rafael. Attendees learn about the application process and training and support services. Foster parents provide temporary homes to boys and girls of all ages, typically for six to 12 months; prospective parents can be any adult age, of any sexual orientation, single or part of a couple, married or not. marinhhs.org/foster-care K.P.

TIM PORTER (TOP)

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Author Talk

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Local Page Turners

Guittard Chocolate Cookbook by Amy Guittard (San Francisco), Chronicle Books, $25. Chocoholics rejoice! This tribute to chocolate tantalizes with recipes for crave-worthy treats, such as Chocolate Coconut Bread and Cloud Nine Brownies, not to mention 50 mouthwatering photos. Compiled by the great-great granddaughter of the founder of San Francisco’s Guittard Chocolate Company, this collection of family recipes takes Guittard’s gourmet chocolate to the next delectable level.

The Japanese Lover by Isabel Allende (Tiburon), Atria Books, $28. In 1939, having escaped from Nazi-occupied Poland, Alma Belasco arrives in San Francisco. Living with her aunt and uncle, Alma falls in love with Ichimei Fukuda; however, when Ichimei is relocated to an internment camp, they are tragically separated. This enchanting novel glides through time, capturing decades of world history as well as the endurance of love. Appearing at Dominican University November 4, 7 p.m.

MM: Tell me about growing up in a well-known chocolate-making family. AG: Growing up, we had chocolate around the house but certainly not as much as I have in my pantry now. It was reserved for special occasions — baked in a sweet treat after a family meal or mixed into hot chocolate, which we took with us to games at Candlestick Park. Once I got older, I’d spend summer vacations working in our research lab — developing recipes, tempering, learning how to taste. In fact, the Chocolate Raspberry Bon Bon recipe in the book was the first recipe I ever “developed.”

MM: What is the most interesting lesson you’ve learned about cooking with/making chocolate? AG: Our pastry chef Donald Wressell is my go-to for all of my questions about baking with chocolate. It’s all about fl avor and fi nding ways to celebrate that fl avor, whether that means working with farmers to better understand their postharvest techniques or crafting

chocolate that celebrates the inherent attributes of the beans. Keeping these things in mind as we source and bake puts things in perspective and gives meaning to the making.

MM: Does one ever get sick of chocolate? AG: Never. There are just too many di fferent types to try and too many ways to enjoy. I’m always tasting new stuff nd always experimenting with di fferent chocolates in the kitchen.

This Bridge Will Not Be Gray by Dave Eggers (Mill Valley), illustrated by Tucker Nichols, McSweeney’s Books, $19.95. Eggers’ playful prose dances across Nichols’ creative collages to tell the story behind the Golden Gate Bridge’s unique color. The rich history and imaginative artwork will inspire children and adults alike to see this famous Bay Area bridge in a new light. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera November 11, 6 p.m.

We Have the Technology by Kara Platoni (Berkeley), Basic Books, $27.99. Prepare to rethink your reality with this compulsively readable, eye-opening exploration of sensory science. Award-winning science journalist Platoni not only challenges readers to examine the basis of their perceptions but also reveals the ways in which researchers and bio-hackers are using sensory science to develop new technologies. Appearing at Book Passage San Francisco December 9, 6 p.m.

Not All Bad Comes to Harm You by Janice Mock (Tiburon), iUniverse, $16.95. When Janice Mock learned that she had stage four ovarian cancer at age 51, she turned her life-threatening diagnosis into a prescription to truly live. The tale expands on a blog started during her treatment. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera December 5, 4 p.m.

Book picks by Book Passage Events Coordinator Aliza Goldberg.

CALIN VAN PARIS

MM: What was the most challenging part of creating this cookbook? AG: Paying adequate tribute to the history and legacy of our extended family of employees, customers and suppliers and of course my immediate family. It’s humbling to think about all of the history, knowledge and experience of everyone involved in making us what we are today. I’m merely the storyteller and a small piece of the ever-growing Guittard family. Also, not eating every bit of every recipe we tested.

We sat down with San Francisco’s Amy Guittard to discuss her new Guittard Chocolate Cookbook

We care for the city that loves all.

We treat more cardiac patients than any other hospital in San Francisco. When you call this city home, you call CPMC your hospital.

ON THE JOB

Holiday Ready

This local baker is gearing up for pie season.

BY TIM PORTER

YOU THINK YOU’RE busy cooking for the holidays? Forget it. You could be Miriam de Leon. She and her staff andmake nearly 400 apple, pumpkin and pecan holiday pies as well as the 600 other pieces of baked goods they produce on weekends. Were you a baker in Guatemala? No, I was a preschool teacher, but during my training they offered me a class in baking and I said, “No, I’m not interested in that. Not at all.” I thought I was never going to need it. And look at me now. When did you start here? September 1, 2007. I was 19 and I had just come from Guatemala and an ex-teacher of mine was working here. She said, “I have a job for you.” Whoa, I said, “can I take a few days to rest?” No, she said, “you have to start now.” I started right away as a dishwasher. That’s hard work. I remember telling my teacher how hard it was and she told me to be patient and something would come up and it did. When did you start baking? A few months later. I started helping Carol (Levalley, Rustic Bakery founder) with the baking on the weekends and one day she asked me if I was interested in learning how to bake croissants. Now, I make croissants,

Miriam de Leon, bakery manager, Rustic Bakery, 1139 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur, rusticbakery.com

scones, mu ffi ns, focaccia rolls, di fferent kinds of cookies and pies. Have any favorites? I love the blueberry oat scone and the chocolateraspberry croissant. What are your hours? Normally, I come at 5 and work 10 hours four days a week, but during October, November, December, I work around 12 hours a day, fi ve or six days a week. Any pie-making secrets? For apple pie, peel the apples right before you use them and don’t soak them in water. Otherwise the pie will have a lot of water. The crust? After mixing, you want little chunky pieces of butter remaining in the dough. Don’t over-mix. Anything else? Flour the pan before you add the dough. Then the pie will slide out easily when you cut it. What do you like about your job? I love to make croissants. Making croissants makes me happy every day. Have you ever eaten a croissant in Paris? No, but I’d like to. Oh, one day. Maybe, you never know. Are you ready for the holidays? I think I am. I think so. m

TIM PORTER

Doctor’s Advice for Holiday-Ready Skin

‘Tis the season of holiday parties and family functions! But dry winter weather, late nights and over-indulgence can take their toll on your complexion. To put your “best face” forward this month, we asked beauty expert, Dr. Karron Power, for her top tips for glowing skin!

Are there any skin care products that you just can’t live without?

”I never go a day without my TNS Recovery Complex. This red gel contains growth factors that increase collagen production and improve elastin quality in the skin. I pair it with the PowerMD Triple Power Protect antioxidant to prevent free radical damage and banish cold weather redness and irritation. Only reindeers look cute with red noses!”

What’s the latest laser technology for better skin?

TNS Recovery Complex $172; PowerMD Triple Power Protect $73

“There is a laser for practically everything now, so it’s important to separate the science from the hype. I am most excited about Cutera’s new Excel-V laser. It’s a game-changer in the treatment of brown spots, spider veins and diffuse edness – either on the face or the body. To smooth fine lines and impove texture and tone, I depend on the power of the ClarO2 fractional resurfacing laser. It remains the “gold standard” for skin rejuvenation.

Help! I want to look my best before this weekend’s holiday party! Is there anything that can make me look younger ASAP?

“Over the years, cheeks hollow out and skin falls forward to create folds, lines and shadows around the nose and mouth. Voluma restores cheek volume for a natural lift and a younger, more vibrant look. Treatment takes minutes and the effects are immediate – perfect timing for the hectic holiday season!”

“If you are looking for immediate results, Juvederm Voluma delivers!”

1. Hydration: Winter cold, indoor heating, and over-indulging have a dehydrating effect on skin. Combat dull skin by using a gentle cleanser that won’t strip natural oils and follow with a moisture-locking hyaluronic acid serum. And don’t forget to drink plenty of water! PowerMD Daily Dew Face Wash $33; PowerMD Pure Blue Hydration $69

2. Supplements: Omega-3 supplements reduce inflammtion and combat dry winter skin. Give hair and nails get the extra strength they need with a keratin and biotin-rich growth support supplement. PowerMD PrOmega $56; Grow Power Hair, Skin, Nails $42

3. Exercise: In addition to the many benefits o your mind and body; exercise also improves your complexion. Sweating improves skin circulation and helps the skin detoxify impurities. So get your blood moving every day for a glow that shows from the inside out!

4. Rest: Getting your “beauty sleep” is important. For a better night’s sleep, dim your lights and stay off eletronic devices for one hour before bed. Still can’t sleep? Herbal remedies that contain Valerian Root and supplements that contain the sleep-signal GABA can work wonders. PowerMD REM Power $44; PowerMD Mood Soothe $51

Dr. Power’s Top Tips for soft skin this season:

“New treatments combine growth hormone stimulators with powerful laser treatments to prime the skin’s collagenproducing cells for faster recovery and better results.”

MADE BY MARIN

Pamela’s Products

IF YOU’RE AT the grocery store searching for a sugar y fi x that doesn’t involve the words “Bisquick” or “Toll House,” be sure to look for the pastel bags of gluten-free goodies on display down the aisle. Founded in 1988, Pamela’s Products is the brainchild of Pamela Giusto-Sorrells, a third-generation purveyor of natural foods (though it’s worth noting that no one in the family is actually gluten-intolerant) and San Rafael resident. Giusto-Sorrells grew up spending time and working at Golden Crescent Health Foods, her grandparents’ San Francisco store, which had a bakery full of alternative sweets. The only problem? They weren’t all that tasty. After consuming countless dry and uninspiring gluten-free goods and bread that seemed like the only options within the genre, Giusto-Sorrells left the family business to create her own company, founded on the premise that wheat- and gluten-free could actually taste great. That factor was essential to success, given that gluten-free wasn’t trendy in the 1980s — Pamela’s goods had to stand out for flavor, not health benefits. PHILOSOPHY Pamela’s was created for food-lovers who value taste as well as health. For those hoping to enjoy a short stack of pancakes sans the usual heavy serving of lethargy, Pamela’s Gluten-free Baking and Pancake Mix is a kind of breakfast miracle. The mix was Pamela’s fi rst official creation and remains the company’s signature and most popular product — ranking No. 1 in the natural pancake market, higher even than mixes made with wheat. THE SCOOP Brownie, cornbread and cookie mixes are also available, along with a selection of ready-made treats. Pamela’s Products are sold in grocery stores all over the country and some shops in Canada. Should you fi nd yourself craving gluten-free graham crackers while in Europe, you can order Pamela’s on Amazon. WHAT THEY SAY “As a child of the 1960s, brought up with carob-chip cookies and nine-grain bread, I dreamt of Wonder Bread and Hostess cupcakes. It was really unfair for the kids at school who had to eat the horrible gluten-free products my family made — no one was going to share their food. That was the whole reason for starting down this road.” pamelasproducts.com

Treat

to

Multi-shape sapphire and diamond necklace (sapphires 37.88 cts, diamonds 31.12 cts), price upon request, at Graff (SF), 415.926.7000.

ICY Forecast

These glamorous baubles give new meaning to the phrase “frost yourself.” With precious gemstones in wintery shades of blue and brilliant diamonds, these accessories will add some bling to your holidays and keep you shining straight through the new year.

VERONICA SOOLEY

Sky Marquis collection blue quartz, sapphire and sterling silver fringe earrings by Alexis Bittar Fine Jewelry, $595, at Saks Fifth Avenue (S.F.), 415.986.4300.

Roche ice quartz crystal rings with diamonds, price upon request, at Kathleen Dughi Jeweler (Mill Valley), 415.383.0462.

Raw Cut Crystal Quartz Lariat necklace (14k gold fill) by Waffles & Honey Jewelry, $145, at wafflesandhoney.com.

Starry Sky Solitaire ring (.33 ct diamond solitaire with star-set diamonds around 18k white gold band), $3,960, at Sarah Swell (Sausalito), 415.521.6797.

Lady’s White Platinum 3 Stone fashion ring (5.42 ct oval sapphire, .28 ctw half-moon cut diamonds (two, total weight) and .96 ctw round brilliant-cut diamonds), price upon request, at Sausalito Jewelers (Sausalito), 415.331.2100.

18k white gold bezel set 3 ct round brilliantcut diamond pendant on 18k white gold wave necklace (1.10 cttw diamonds), price upon request, at Stephan-Hill Jewelry Designers (San Rafael), 415.459.5808.

Aqua druzy pendant on African doublestranded beads by Ellie Toole of Ellis Handmade Jewelry, $88, at 7 on Locust (Mill Valley), 415.388.9696.

Passion collection white gold diamond ring by Simon G, price upon request, at Julianna’s Fine Jewelry (Corte Madera), 415.924.9711.

18k yellow gold earrings with sapphire brilliants (10.3 ctw) and white brilliant cut diamonds (1.44 ctw) by Todd Reed, $31,350, at Sofia Jewelry (Mill Valley), 415.388.8776.

Natural blue sapphire (4.11 ct) with two baguette cut diamonds (.45 cts) set in platinum designed by Glenda Queen and Terry Brumbaugh, price upon request, at Union Street Goldsmith (S.F.), 415.776.8048.

18k white gold ring with blue sapphire (8 ct) and diamonds (1.50 cts), price upon request, at Norman Mahan Jewelers (Mill Valley), 415.389.9300.

Morning Glory platinum iridium ring (center diamond .5 ct), price upon request, at Alix & Company (Mill Valley), 415.435.2484.

Cushion cut 8 mm blue topaz surrounded by .22 ct white sapphires set in 14k gold necklace (also available in other stones) by Suzanne Kalan, $598, at Meadowlark Fine Jewelry (Corte Madera), 415.924.2210.

Deco collection aquamarine and ideal cut diamond drop earrings in 18k white gold designed by Janet Deleuse, $17,500, at Deleuse Jewelers (Tiburon), 415.435.2484.

Art deco sapphire (15 ctw) and diamond (2.75 ctw) bracelet by Bailey, Banks & Biddle, price upon request, at Lang Antiques (S.F.), 415.982.2213 and langantiques.com.

Have them unwrap your best gift yet

’Tis the season to be jolly and celebrate with friends and family gathering together for food, drink and merriment. It’s also the chance to give them something unique. Find the right gift for that special person in your life. The following pages have gift suggestions for everyone, including spouses, moms and dads, pets, kids and coworkers. Make this holiday season your best ever!

The Mount Tam Collection. Give the iconic gift of a Mt. Tam pendant to those who love Mt. Tamalpais as much as we do. “Made in Marin” and available in yellow and white gold with diamonds or Sterling silver with white sapphires. 415.459.5808, San Rafael, stephanhill.com

Marin’s premier sock store, featuring all the latest trends the sock world has to offer. From Novelty to Over the Knee, Cashmere to Worlds Softest Socks, and much more! A definite must for the ultimate stocking stuffer! 415.332.3336, Sausalito, soxalito.com

Tutu School. Give the gift of twirling to an aspiring little dancer in your life! Classes and parties at Tutu School in the Marin Country Mart, for children 18 months to 8 years old.

Andrew Weeks Photography. 415.419.5610, tutuschool.com

Hand forged and fabricated in Marin County. These bangles by Lucas Priolo are the perfect gift for everyone on your list. Available in mixed metals with and without diamonds. Sold exclusively at Sofia Jewelry. 415.388.8776, Mill Valley, sofiajewelry.com

Lang Antiques. One-of-a-kind antique and estate heirloom jewels are always the right gift. In our store or online, expert advice is part of the Lang shopping experience. 415.982.2213, San Francisco, langantiques.com

PowerMD Aesthetics. This year, ask for the gift of looking and feeling forever young. From clinically proven skincare to cutting edge, nonsurgical facial rejuvenation, there’s the right fit for every face. The perfect gift for men and women! 415.785.7995, Bon Air Center, PowerMD.com

Marin Jewelers Guild. Unique. Handmade. Local. Visit the Marin Jewelers Guild and be welcomed by one of your local artisan jewelers. Mention this ad and receive a free polishing cloth! 1331 Fourth Street between C and D. 415.454.2711, San Rafael, marinjewelersguild.com

The Chipper Cookie Company: Fresh baked traditional cookies with a twist. The perfect hostess or corporate gift, or dessert for your next party. Choose “Crazy Chip” cookies, Cinnamon Crisps, SuperLoveCookies and more. Order online. thechippercookiecompany.com

This gorgeous Kiboots oversized wool reversible wrap is perfect for your favorite winter sweater, or just to cozy up with. It comes in 3 different colors and is $190. 415.925.0109, Larkspur, item-shoes.com

The FolkArt Gallery The World made by Hand! Stunning artisan jewelry and the best of the world’s contemporary, vintage and antique indigenous folk and tribal crafts. We’ve spent over 25 years developing wonderful relationships with artisans and their families. 415.925.9096, San Rafael, thefolkartgallery.com

Mix jewelry and great design with ethical materials and find yourself in the gallery and workshop of designer Janet Alix. A curated collection of jewelry and art makes it a joyous place to shop for the holidays. 415.380.0880, Mill Valley, alixandcompany.com

Rustic Bakery specializes in handmade baked goods for the holiday season. We offer beautiful gift baskets filled with organic treats, nostalgic decorated sugar cookies, hand cut glazed spiced gingerbread tiles and delicious desserts for your holiday table. Larkspur 415.925.1556, Novato 415.878.4952, MCM 415.461.9900, rusticbakery.com

In Her Shoes features many great European and American made brands such as Paul Green, Calleen Cordero, Aquatalia, 49 Sq Miles and many more! Great gift items available for everyone on your list. Follow us on Facebook and Instragram @InHerShoesMarin. 415.306.7157, San Rafael, InHerShoesMarin.com

NATURAL WOOD BASKETS AT TERRESTRA

A tour-de-force of engineering and aesthetics, the forms are precision-cut from a flat sheet of birch wood and bonded into a durable spiral to reveal their intricate patterns. Ideal as a fruit bowl or for striking décor, in 15” or 9” diameter. Made in USA. 415.384.8330, Mill Valley, terrestra.com

Uko is known for stylish and timeless women’s clothing at a reasonable price. The wide range of accessories is perfect for holiday gifts including this leather purse made in Italy, available in black and red for $198. 415.326.5088, Mill Valley, San Francisco, ukosf.com

Union Street Goldsmith Unique designs that fit your lifestyle. Rare colored gemstones, ancient coins, and fabulous wedding sets in hand fabricated settings. 415.776.8048, San Francisco, unionstreetgoldsmith.com

Thomas Peters

Overseeing the distribution of more than $65 million annually to worthy causes in Marin and the world.

BY JIM WOOD • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

MAKING SURE $65 million is distributed each year to the most worthy causes is the job of Thomas “Tom” Peters, president and CEO of the Marin Community Foundation. The foundation’s goal is “to make a di fference in the lives of others through thoughtful and effective philanthropy.” Sounds noble, doesn’t it? — especially during this season of giving.

What follows, in a nutshell, is how the Marin Community Foundation, with assets of $1.6 billion, came into existence, where that more than a billion-and-a-half dollars came and continues to come from, and how Peters, a native San Franciscan with a doctorate in psychology and health science from the University of Minnesota, came to lead California’s second-largest community foundation (the largest, no surprise, is the Silicon Valley Community Foundation, with $6.5 billion in assets). Most important, we’l l fi nd out where some of the annual distribution winds up.

The story starts in 1975, when Ross resident Beryl Buck died and left an estate of nearly $10 million to “benefit the people of Marin County.” When most of that estate turned out to be stock in an

That bequest launched a foundation whose funding mostly comes from two major sources, the Buck Family Foundation (grants from this entity benefit Marin causes) and an aggregate of funds commonly called “donor advised funds.” The latter grouping is composed of approximately 500 individuals and families, from Marin and beyond (these funds can go anywhere in the world, but more than half go to Marin nonprofits and schools). Each entity has assets totaling approximately $800 million.

obscure oil company later purchased by Shell Oil, and its value increased significantly, San Francisco managers claimed the amount was too great to be spent all in Marin. The case settled in 1987, and the Marin Community Foundation was created, as were three other entities that would serve not only the residents of Marin but also “all of mankind.”

These are the Buck Institute for Research on Aging, the Buck Institute for Education, and Alcohol Justice, a San Rafael–based nonprofit.

With a doctorate in medicine and psychology from an out-of-state school, how did you progress to presiding over a foundation with $1.6 billion in assets? I’m a Bay Area guy. I grew up just outside the city and graduated from San Francisco State. Then I headed to University of Minnesota, drawn by its stellar reputation and the fact that there were six major hospitals on campus. For me the move from the Bay Area was a physical as well as an existential shock. I think I provided comedic relief for people. Here comes this western boy full of hippie spirit — and I nearly froze to death. It was 32 degrees below zero and the oil in my little Renault froze up. But the campus kept me there for five years. As soon as I finished I got back in my old Renault and drove almost nonstop back to San Francisco. About a year later, it was 1974, I took a job with the City of San Francisco Health Department. In the ‘80s, I was fortunate to become chief of sta ff, overseeing some 6,000 sta ff members as we dealt with the earliest years of the HIV/AIDS epidemic, a billion-dollar budget, S.F. General and Laguna Honda hospitals, paramedic services and five large community clinics.

When did you arrive in Marin County? It was in 1991, when I was named director of the county’s health and human services department. I served in that position — continuing to really enjoy public service — until 1998, when the directors of the Marin Community Foundation came knocking on my door. So I jumped the fence from the public to the private sector.

In the ’80s, I was fortunate to become chief of staff, overseeing some 6,000 staff members as we dealt with the earliest years of the HIV/AIDS epidemic.

Was the switch difficult? At the time, I didn’t have the good sense to realize what a change it would be. For me, it was a change for the better. The missions and themes of the Marin Community Foundation are very compatible with what I’ve wanted to do all my life. I’m not dealing with just health and disease issues, but also with housing, education, the arts, the environment and economic development. It deals with the way life really is for families and the community. I am as happy as I can be.

Your title at the Marin Community Foundation is president and CEO. Why? At first, I was a bit uncomfortable with that overin flated title. But over the years I’ve come to understand it better. The CEO part relates to running a pretty good-size organization. We have over 50 employees, an annual budget of $9 million, over 500 funds and more than a billion and a half in funds to oversee. I look at running the Marin Community Foundation much as I would [running] a Fortune 500 company. As for my role as president, that involves trying to ensure that everyone, both inside the organization and

The single hardest moment is seeing a young child brimming with innate skills and infectious enthusiasm coming face-to-face with the impediments of his or her challenged environment.

in the surrounding community, knows why we are doing what we are doing, emphasizing core values. The same principles of creativity, excitement and synergy exist for both roles.

What is the hardest part of your job? It’s the emotional pang of seeing the number of folks — children and families particularly — right here in Marin who are struggling mightily in their everyday lives. Struggling wit h fi nances and jobs, with their health and where to live. T he single hardest moment is seeing a young child brimming with innate skills and infectious enthusiasm coming face-to-face with the impediments of his or her challenged environment, grappling with the fact that the doors of opportunity are swinging shut.

And the best part? Hands down, it’s the opportunity to engage with individual donors and their families. They’re accomplished people across varied fields — business, finance, science and the arts. They have resources to share and the heart to do so. Many also exemplify [the term] “world citizens,” with deep philanthropic and humanitarian interests here in Marin as well as nationally and internationally. W hat an honor and a treat to know them.

Are you comfortable sharing some personal information? Sure, I just turned 71 and seldom miss my daily swim or a bayside hike. I feel as good as I’ve ever felt. I’m the proud father of three adult children, two of whom have earned Ph.D.s and the third is working on her master’s. As for where I live, when I fi rst came to Marin, almost 25 years ago, I “temporarily” moved into a two-bedroom condominium just to live in until I could fi nd more permanent housing. Well, I fell in love with the place and I’m still there. And lucky me, I have a wonderful sweetheart in my life as well.

Where does some of that $65 million in funding that you distribute go? Can you list a dozen recipients? Sure, but it will just be examples of the scores of worthy causes MCF supports. They include Marin Community Clinics in Greenbrae, Novato and San Rafael; 10,000 Degrees, which enables less fortunate but deserving Marin youth to attend college; numerous affordable housing projects, including Mount Burdell Place in Novato and San Clemente Place in Corte Madera; MALT in West Marin; Bread and Roses, the Corte Madera group that brings music to hospitals and seniors; Homeward Bound, the terrific housing and educational facility for the homeless; the Mountain Play; Whistlestop Senior Services; the Marin Child Care Council; and the Early Childhood Education Quality Improvement Project. Outside Marin, what quickly comes to mind are the Human Rights Watch; Planned Parenthood of America and Heifer International. And again, those are just a few of the causes and concerns the Marin Community Foundation grants. I’m humbled and privileged to have this job. m

BIKE SHOPS. YOGA STUDIOS. PILATES CLASSES. EVERYTHING YOU NEED to LIVE in MARIN. UNLESS YOU’RE a SENIOR.

Marin is the wealthiest county in California. Yet nearly a quarter of our older adults live in poverty. This is where Whistlestop comes in.

We’re the largest Marin organization serving older adults. One in four people in Marin is over 60. For more than 60 years, we’ve provided rides, meals, classes, and community. We help people age with grace, dignity, and independence.

We provide more than 150,000 rides every year. We offer more than six classes a day, five days a week. We serve 8,300 meals each month.

Won’t you help with a monthly gift? Just $15 a month helps feed homebound seniors nutritious meals and gives them friendly visits.

Visit AgingInMarin.com.

MARIN CITY

BY MARK ANTHONY WILSON

Sausalito. Marin City is listed on the same sign as Sausalito as you exit south offhighway 101, although few notice the collection of high-rise public housing units about half a mile west of the off-ramp as they turn toward Sausalito to shop or dine. Yet this unique working-class enclave, in the heart of one of America’s wealthiest counties, has a rich and storied past.

Marin City is not like so many other public housing developments built in the 1950s and ’60s, where low-income families were warehoused in grim, soulless, mass-produced concrete buildings that resemble military bunkers. The design of the units at Marin City was site-sensitive and included grassy areas

“meets the challenge of the site’s topography and dramatic situation.” Lately, plans for renovation in Marin City have brought controversy, as residents present the Marin County Housing Authority with concerns about sense of place or even possibly being displaced from their homes.

The origins of Marin City date to the early days of World War II. After the bombing of Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, the U.S. government decided to use the waterfront shipyards at Sausalito to build Liberty supply ships and tankers for the war effort. The yards produced a total of 93 ships between 1942 and 1945. To house some 6,000 of the shipyard workers who migrated to the Bay Area from

left Marin City to fi nd homes elsewhere, while the black families stayed, some by choice, most because they weren’t welcome in the rest of Marin County at the time.

Within 10 years the Marinship buildings were deteriorating from deferred maintenance, so in the late 1950s the county persuaded the Marin Housing Authority to demolish them and fund a new development on the site. Designed in 1958, the buildings went up between 1959 and 1962: one- and two-story townhouses on mostly level sections and five-story high-rises on upslope portions of the site. These building groups currently comprise Golden Gate Village, the historic core of the community now known as Marin City.

The rich history and current challenges of a historic African-American enclave.

By 1970, African-Americans made up nearly 80 percent of Marin City’s population; in the 1980s and ’90s, working-class whites slowly began to move back in. The 2010 U.S. census showed whites comprising 37 percent and blacks 45 percent of the populace, the rest including other ethnic groups. Nonetheless, Marin City remains the only sizable AfricanAmerican community in Marin.

Two highly respected Bay Area architectural firms, Aaron Green and Associates and John Carl Warnecke and Associates, designed Marin City’s housing, while famed landscape architect Lawrence Halprin helped conceive much of the original outdoor common areas and grounds. A former Frank Lloyd Wright associate, Green opened his San Francisco practice after Wright’s death in 1959; Warnecke, in prolific practice since 1955, went on to design the main campus buildings at UC Santa Cruz as well as buildings at Asilomar conference center and the JFK memorial in Arlington National Cemetery. Halprin would later serve as principal designer of Ghirardelli Square and the United Nations Plaza at San Francisco’s Civic Center.

In all, Golden Gate Village has 300 units on a 32-acre site. The fi ve-story units at the base of the hillsides were Green’s work; Warnecke designed the two-story town houses along Drake Road; Halprin, in addition to the

grounds, was consulted on play and picnic areas and parking spots. Today’s Marin City population, including more recent developments north of Drake Road, is currently about 2,700, while the original Golden Gate Village section has about 800 residents. The overall visual effect of Marin City is that of a well-planned suburban community integrated into its natural treeshaded, upslope environment.

The one- and two-story town house units have concrete walls on the ground level, wood siding on the upper levels, banded aluminum-frame windows, and low-pitched roofs with overhanging eaves. Many of these units include patios and gardens enclosed by low walls, which allow these buildings to “breathe.” The high-rises have three or four units on each floor, plus laundry and storage areas. Exterior stairwells are at the corners of each building, and the buildings are topped by hipped roofs sheathed in red clay tiles. Partially recessed balconies for the upper-floor units have cutaways in the walls to allow more sunlight inside. The ground floor units open onto grass, and a community garden is planted between two of the high-rises, as well as mature trees. Upper floors have views of the Marin hills, and a hiking trail begins right out back.

“Aaron Green had a vision for that project, which I shared,” says Daniel Liebermann, a retired architect and environmental planner who

The overall visual effect of Marin City is that of a wellplanned suburban community, integrated into its natural tree-shaded, upslope environment.

Opening spread: Exterior stairwells; an early design perspective from Warnecke and Green showing abundant landscaping and private yards. This page above: Green and Associates’ original site plan included topographic contour lines and showed how the buildings all worked together.

worked with Green’s office on the original concept. “To create a democratically oriented housing development for the workers at Marinship. We wanted to be sure those buildings connected to the natural landscape, to the hillsides — Aaron was actually, deep down, equalitarian: very American. He wanted to really dedicate a serious Wright/Green–type project — to do his best for the workers who would be living there.”

The connection between Marin City’s design and Frank Lloyd Wright is not tangential. Green worked closely with Wright on the hotly contested design and master plan of Marin Civic Center. He brought the nature-based, sitesensitive philosophy he had learned working with Wright to his plan for Marin City. Anyone who has seen the drawings of Wright’s un-built concept for an ideal, equalitarian community called Broadacre City can see the similarities with Golden Gate Village: low-density housing units with direct access to the land, interspersed with lots of open green space. Green discussed his concept for Golden Gate Village in his book An Architecture for Democracy

Another key Marin City/Civic Center connection was Vera Schultz, the county’s first female supervisor, who was instrumental in getting both projects started. The main proponent of Wright’s Civic Center design, she also helped create the development agency that arranged the funding to build Marin City.

These days, some Marin City residents worry about how new changes in store might a ffect the development’s overall character, their quality of life, or even their ability to remain. Royce Mclemore, vice president of the Golden Gate Village Resident Council, grew up in Marin City;

This page from top: A new playground space. In the back there is still some Marinship housing and the newly constructed high-rise towers can be seen; Golden Gate Village as it looks today.

her family moved there in 1945. The site needs about $14 million to $17 million of rehabilitation, she notes: seismic upgrading, green-based infrastructure improvements, basic repairs to the buildings. In her view, the housing authority may have let deferred maintenance accumulate to justify a complete overhaul of the entire site. And if the agency brings in outside developers to add housing and do large-scale remodeling of buildings and grounds, the current low-income residents might be gentrified right out of Marin, through increased rents. “We’re trying to prevent that,” she says; instead, residents want to create “a 21st-century manufacturing center on the site” where they can apprentice to learn skills to make materials for the seismic upgrades and repairs themselves. “We are completing a study to help create a historic district designation for Golden Gate Village,” Mclemore adds, “so the county can’t make significant changes to the buildings and grounds.”

In that study, being conducted by San Francisco’s Garavaglia Architecture Incorporated with architectural historian Alison Garcia-Kellar writing the report, research does suggest Marin City quali fies to be a site on the National Register of Historic Places, with the protections from major alterations that designation entails. “While it is clear these buildings as a public housing project are unique to Marin County,” Garcia-Kellar states, “the project is further distinctive, from a design perspective, as part of a nationwide, post–World War II public housing program. This is largely because of its relationship to the existing hillside site and the way in which the buildings interact with each other. A mini ecosystem was created for this speci fic community, most of which is essentially intact.”

Lewis Jordan, executive director of Marin Housing Authority, says, “no final plans have been made by our agency regarding any future renovations to be done on Marin City. On the contrary,” he notes, “we’re having a working group conversation with members of the community to develop plans for sustainable housing

that will meet the needs of the residents.” An agency physical needs assessment of the site reveals that it requires $16 million in immediate repairs and $31 million in repairs over the next 15 years; the authority’s current funding, all federal, through HUD, provides only $500,000 a year, to be spread over six sites in Marin. “So we’ll need to form a public-private partnership with a nonprofit housing builder to meet the costs of these upgrades.”

The housing authority is weighing three alternatives for the future of Marin City, Jordan says. “One is to restore and preserve it as is — which may not be a viable option. Second is to have a mixed level of housing there: low income, below market rate and market rate. A third option is to have mixed-use development on the site, so there would be commercial establishments combined with mixed-level housing. In any case,” he adds, “our contract with HUD requires that we keep the current number of 300 subsidized low-income units on the site, whatever the final plan will be.” Right now

there’s no set timetable for making a decision, he stresses, and the agency will continue to listen to residents’ concerns as it puts together a master plan. “What we want is for the end result to cause a minimal movement of current residents out of the development,” he says.

But in an opinion piece in the Marin Independent Journal earlier this year, Mclemore disputed those ideas, describing a residents group’s alternative plan for financing “green development” of the Golden Gate Village site. It includes designation as a Federal Manufacturing Community Partnership Program so they can attract newly created funding to create a manufacturing site in the shopping mall area across Drake Road, as well as additional federal restoration funding that would come from being declared a National Historic Site.

Whatever the future of Marin City may be, it is clear this unique community has a rich and important history that residents want preserved. m

Additional research provided by Rheanna Bagley.

A mini ecosystem was created for this specific community, most of which is essentially intact.

Opposite: The two-story units as they looked shortly after construction. They included access to concrete patios and were originally unpainted. This page from top: Elevation drawings show how the large buildings interact with the site; the highrise towers right after construction; the high-rise balconies; Aaron Green at the 25th anniversary of the Civic Center in 1987.

A HIKER’S PARADISE

What it takes to tackle the historic John Muir Trail.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY VICTOR VOLTA

For most who backpack the 211-mile John Muir Trail from Happy Isles in Yosemite National Park to Mount Whitney in California’s Sierra Nevada range, the trek is the culmination of a longtime dream. It’s a chance to spend three weeks in the wilderness, camping under the stars, walking through thick conifer forests, marveling at the high granitic peaks of the Sierras cutting the deep blue sky like a serrated knife, and walking through meadows blooming with an impossible array of wildflowers.

It’s also an undertaking of grand proportions, nearly epic in the minds of those who choose it. The planning, preparation and training can seem endless, spanning months, even years. Once a backpacker takes the plunge, circles that magical departure date on the calendar and begins preparations, it becomes an obsession crowding out all other thoughts, rational or otherwise. Terms like pack weight, resupply buckets, temperature rating and many more enter the lexicon.

My own obsession began in late November 2013 during a three-day trip to Yosemite. On the fi rst morning, I hiked the Mist Trail to the top of Nevada Falls. Once there, I sat on the trail, enjoying the cold autumnal quiet while eating lunch before heading back to Yosemite Valley. I was facing the sun, feeling its warmth; then I turned around and noticed a signpost behind me. It was a John Muir Trail sign that gave the distances to various points ahead: Little Yosemite Valley, Half Dome … and at the bottom, Mount Whitney, a scant 215 miles away to the south. I’d hiked to the top of Mount Whitney (14,505 feet) twice before, but until that moment, I’d never considered trying to reach it via the John Muir Trail. The urge to continue up the trail was powerful. Fortunately, with my meager daypack, I decided more planning might be wise.

The Trail and Its History

Backpackers can start at either end of the trail, although most start in the north and head south. Those finishing at Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the contiguous 48 states, still face a 10-mile hike from the trail at Whitney Portal (8,200 feet), so for them the total hike is a bit more than 220 miles. From north to south, the trail takes you through Yosemite National Park, Ansel Adams Wilderness, John Muir Wilderness, Kings Canyon National Park and Sequoia National Park.

The trail was the brainchild of explorer and early Sierra Club member Theodore Solomons in the 1880s. Early on, horse and mule pack trains were the prime consideration, not recreational backpackers. To this day, pack trains are almost a daily sight, serving the needs of backpackers, trail crews, rangers and firefighters. It would eventually take more than 50 years for the present route to be settled on. Trail construction spanned years and was fi nished in 1938.

Logistics and Preparation

Because of weather considerations, trail conditions and the limited seasons of backcountry resupply facilities, the JMT hiking season is mid-May to late September. Early in the season, the higher passes are more likely to still be covered

Opener: Trail and pond near Donohue Pass in Yosemite. Opposite: The trip, which was taken from July 16 to August 9, 2015, starting from Yosemite, kicks off with a view of Nevada Falls, Liberty Cap and the back of Half Dome on the first day. This page from left: Burned forest (the result of a 4,772-acre fire in 2014) in Little Yosemite Valley; bigelow sneezeweed wildflowers.

in snow or ice. July and August see the highest use, as by then the trails are typically mostly clear and inclement weather is less apt to severely impact the hike. Still, thunder, lightning, rain and/or hail are likely at some point in any three weeks during the summer.

The planning required to successfully, and safely, complete the JMT is considerable, especially for those traveling here from other parts of the United States or foreign countries. Fortunately, countless resources can help: books, magazines, websites, social media groups (yahoo.com has an especially well-moderated group, while Facebook has several, including one speci fically for women). Elizabeth Wenk’s book John Muir Trail (Wilderness Press) is highly recommended; online, the Pacific Crest Trail site’s JMT section is one of the better portals to use as a planning starting point (pcta.org/discover-the-trail/john-muir-trail).

For many, taking time off to backpack the entire trail isn’t realistic. A popular alternative is to choose a section and spend several days or a week on the trail. Numerous trailhead options along the way — from either the eastern or western Sierras — make that doable.

As for self-preparation and training, it’s important to keep in mind that the trail is in the wilderness. A strong body and high degree of self-su fficiency are required. Over the course of the 200-plus miles, there’s roughly 50,000 feet of elevation gain and loss, some of it on very steep and treacherous

footing. Serious injury or even death is possible. Helicopter rescues/evacuations are not uncommon. It’s essential to have certain backcountry skills (and a lot of common sense). The JMT is decidedly not for the casual day hiker.

Wilderness Permits

One of the fi rst preparatory steps is securing a wilderness permit for the trail. Over recent years, demand for permits has exploded, making them di fficult to get at times, especially for hikes originating in Yosemite. The National Park Service has instituted tighter quotas for JMT hikers; 90 to 95 percent of requests are denied. Hikers can start applying for permits 26 weeks in advance of departure. Because of the competition for permits, starting points along the trail have become more popular, as has the decision to hike the trail south to north. Another option is to try for a walk-up permit the day before your trek, although that might not be feasible for those coming from afar. Note: at various points along the trail, rangers will check to make sure backpackers have the proper permit. For more information on the permit process, see nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/jmtfaq.htm.

Given the high demand, in lieu of JMT permits for the entire trail, other Sierra alternatives are becoming popular. Besides section hiking, some people are opting for the Tahoe Rim Trail, the Tahoe to Yosemite Trail, Desolation Wilderness or the High Sierra Trail.

This page from left: Wild mushrooms along the trail in the Ansel Adams Wilderness; Muir Hut, built by the Sierra Club, at Muir Pass in Kings Canyon National Park. Opposite from top: A pond at Island Pass with Mount Ritter and Banner Peak in the background in the Ansel Adams Wilderness; author’s Big Agnes tent at Red’s Meadow Campground near Devils Postpile.

From north to south, the trail takes you through Yosemite National Park, Ansel Adams Wilderness, John Muir Wilderness, Kings Canyon National Park and Sequoia National Park.

Necessary Gear

Compared to other vacations or adventures, backpacking is fairly inexpensive, especially if you already own the requisite gear. Typically, the pack, tent and sleeping bag are the costliest part. The goal is to carry as little weight as possible without compromising comfort or safety, the trade-offbeing that the lightest gear is usually the priciest. Books and websites give detailed advice on necessary and less-necessary equipment.

Food and Resupply

It’s nearly impossible to comfortably carry a 20- to 25-day food supply for 200-plus miles. Most backpackers mail themselves caches of provisions and supplies to pick up along the way. Four common pickup spots in the northernmost 110 miles include (north to south) Tuolumne Meadows post office, Red’s Meadow Resort (near Devils Postpile National Monument), Vermilion Valley Resort and Muir Trail Ranch. South of Muir Trail Ranch, you can choose to carry a large load (I lugged an 11-day supply after picking up my five-gallon resupply bucket at MTR), get resupplied by a pack train from the eastern Sierras (pricey for small groups or solo hikers; a

better option for large groups), or come off he trail in either Bishop or Independence and return with enough food to finish the trail. Although dates vary, resupply spots are only open from about mid-May through late September.

The JMT, like the entire Sierra Nevada range, is active black and brown bear country, so hikers are required to carry food in an approved bear canister, checked by rangers along the trail. It’s for your own protection and to keep bears from becoming accustomed to human food.

Calorie-dense products are best for keeping the body fueled; dehydrated foods, either homemade or sold as prepackaged meals at places like REI, are a popular choice. Other trail-friendly edibles include instant oatmeal, instant coffee, energy bars, various jerkies, nuts and tortillas. Whatever food you bring, two facts are certain: it’s nearly impossible to gain weight during a JMT hike (most lose from 4 to 8 percent of their body weight), and the closer you get to the end of the trail, the more keenly and vividly you’ll obsess about real food — be it steaks, doughnuts or fresh fruit.

Hiking the JMT is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that’s well worth the planning, but the planning should start early on. m

This page: Garnet Lake with Mount Ritter and Banner Peak in the Ansel Adams Wilderness as seen on a 2014 trip. Opposite from left: The south fork of the San Joaquin River in the John Muir Wilderness; a portrait of John Muir.

America’s Naturalist

The Scot who became the father of our national parks.

John Muir’s reach extends into many areas beyond the naming of this trail; in fact, it seems there is nary an outdoors-lover he didn’t influence. Muir proved that passion could trump a formal education, and myriad generations of wildlife stewards were moved to action by his writings and journeys. A fervent self-taught naturalist, Muir was the first to conceive the idea that glaciers might have formed his beloved Yosemite, rather than earthquakes as assumed at the time, and he was right. Congress later passed a bill based on his writings to establish Yosemite as a national park. Raised in a strict religious household, Muir arranged his own unique connection to God through the natural world, feeling it was more akin to the Almighty than scripture since nature came straight from heaven, untainted by civilization. He encouraged citydwellers to seek the wild outdoors for spiritual nourishment and would be happy to know they’ve been doing that in hordes, with the millennials (dubbed the “greatest camping generation” by KOA) leading the pack. Additionally, Muir was the first person honored with an official state commemorative day, and he appears on the California State Quarter alongside a California condor and Half Dome.

KASIA PAWLOWSKA

GIVING BACK

It might be more than most of us can manage to change the world for the better, but many local folks have found a way to at least change their corner of it. Here, a look at 31 organizations making a difference in the human and natural worlds.

BY KASIA PAWLOWSKA

EDUCATION

• Nature

Kids and adults are more disconnected from the outside world than ever before. Those behind the county’s nature education programs are trying to reverse the tide and ensure the world is being taken care of long into the future.

AUDUBON CANYON RANCH Education programs at the Audubon Canyon Ranch aim to connect children and adults with the natural world through hikes on its Tomales Bay and Martin Gri ffi n preserves and classroom follow-up activities. Docent training programs and volunteer ranch and trail guides further support the group’s informational efforts. egret.org

NATUREBRIDGE This organization aims to teach environmental literacy for a sustainable future. NatureBridge offers school, group, family and youth programs focused on developing a strong sense of place in nature and creating interconnections that inspire stewardship. naturebridge.org

WILDCARE Inspired by famed Marin naturalist Elizabeth Terwilliger, who made it her life’s mission to foster appreciation of nature in children, WildCare has been delivering educational programs in the Bay Area for more than 35 years. Mrs. T, as her pupils called her, felt kids benefit most when they use all five senses, and she worked with local schools to create opportunities to learn about the natural world. Today WildCare offers nature camps, family adventures and other programs based on those original principles. wildcarebayarea.org

• Art

Art programs being cut in favor of STEM (science, technology, engineering and math) subjects is leaving a void. Meanwhile, an overwhelming amount of evidence shows a correlation between art and other types of academic achievement, which the people behind these programs have recognized for a long time.

DRAWBRIDGE

Operating in the belief that being understood and valued gives children freedom to grow, DrawBridge runs programs for homeless and at-risk children that let them imaginatively express themselves in a way they often can’t with words. Art therapy helps kids face complex emotional issues, provides an outlet for discussing difficult topics, and brings consistency and compassion to lives where there often isn’t much stability. drawbridge.org

HEADLANDS CENTER FOR THE ARTS

Since 1982, the decommissioned military barracks at Fort Barry have provided space and support for more than 1,200 artists working in disciplines like painting, music, dance, writing and more. The studios give artists space to think and create free of distraction. Headlands programs include a ffi liate, artist-in-residence and various sponsored award opportunities — resulting in 22 Guggenheim Fellowships for participants thus far. headlands.org

YOUTH IN ARTS

YIA is celebrating 45 years of helping children develop skills and the confidence to explore various facets of life through artist residencies, school events and other activities. The organization founded the Italian Street Painting Festival and was its sole producer for 16 years. Youth in Arts also runs the only student work gallery in the North Bay and serves more than 20,000 kids a year, including special education students. youthinarts.org

NatureBridge participants learn about stewardship on a trip to Yosemite.

• Special Needs

Everyone should have the chance to live as independently as possible, though some of our residents require more help to do that. These organizations support families, provide assistance, teach skills and strengthen the community by providing that boost.

ANOVA

With autism diagnosis on the rise, the need for programs like Anova is critical. Its treatment model helps kids and teens address the social and emotional obstacles they face and teaches them to cope with these challenges in a way that alleviates many behavioral problems. Anova’s therapists are specially trained to handle concerns in all aspects of life, be it school, work or home, and provide comprehensive learning plans. anovaeducation.org

CEDARS OF MARIN

One of California’s fi rst programs for people with developmental disabilities, Cedars of Marin, began in 1919. The mix of residential care home, community-based homes, and day programs is designed to promote optimal life skills and work habits. Various activity plans, chosen to suit individual needs, include textile handcraft, nutrition and cooking, and even entrepreneurial projects. thecedarsofmarin.org

HALLECK CREEK RANCH

Halleck Creek Ranch helps people with disabilities experience the therapeutic benefits of horseback riding. Many riders have felt a sense of freedom and mobility, which according to the therapists “allows them to imagine a future and enjoy the present .  The relationships between riders, volunteers and horses establish connections that benefit our entire community.” halleckcreekranch.org

LIFEHOUSE

“It’s just different” is a message you’ll hear echoed by parents and facilitators at Lifehouse. The organization offers services to help people deal with developmental disabilities but, just as important, it creates an inclusive community that battles ignorance and promotes understanding. The program is committed to ensuring people have a good life and equipping them with the skills to make it possible. lifehouseagency.org

MARIN CENTER FOR INDEPENDENT LIVING

Since 1979, Marin Center for Independent Living has worked to allow people with disabilities to remain in their homes and in the community. MCIL offers more than a dozen programs to help people cope with di fficult living situations including skills training, bene fits planning (including breast cancer benefits planning and assistance), home modi fications and housing assistance. marincil.org

COMMUNITY

• Older Adults

According to data collected in 2011, Marin County has the highest personal wealth per capita in California, yet nearly a quarter of the county’s seniors are living in poverty. The vast spaces we cherish create a disadvantage in that respect, as this growing population is often unseen and deals with transportation issues on top of health concerns.

INSTITUTE ON AGING

Started in 1975 at UCSF Mount Zion Hospital as an alternative to a nursing home, the Institute on Aging is the fi rst adult day health center in a U.S. community hospital. Since inception it has instigated several fi rsts, including a creative arts initiative for homebound seniors, and specializes in helping those who can’t join other programs due to issues like dementia. The institute also offers outpatient services to limit hospitalizations for frail elders. ioaging.org

SENIOR ACCESS

All the research coming out of the Buck Institute points to the prevalence of Alzheimer’s disease in our community and beyond. The Club at Senior Access provides stimulating art and music programs, group exercises, brain games and nutritional services to help Marin seniors combat memory loss. Excursions are available for those with early-stage impairment, along with caregiver support and educational workshops. senioraccess.org

WHISTLESTOP

Whistlestop began as a grassroots organization seeking to improve quality of life for older adults and those with disabilities. With comprehensive programs that include specialized transportation and a ffordable meals, it promotes independence and well-being. Currently, Whistlestop provides upwards of 145,000 rides a year to a community that faces isolation, especially if a spouse passes. whistlestop.org

• At Risk

A count of Marin County’s homeless population in January 2015 found 1,309 people without a home, a 40 percent increase from 2013. Here are local resources for the homeless and vulnerable:

ADOPT A FAMILY

Adopt A Family helps more than 500 families each year attain stability and prevent homelessness. It offers comprehensive assessment of individual needs, fi nancial aid, case management and emotional support that includes setting self-su fficiency goals, along with rapid rehousing and emergency contingency funding for families 200 percent below the poverty level. adoptafamily.org

HOMEWARD BOUND

Homeward Bound focuses on finding permanent living solutions for adults, families and people with mental health issues; every year about 10 percent of clients are veterans of war. Additionally, its Fresh Starts Culinary Academy provides food service industry training that encompasses culinary and life skills, interview techniques, resume writing and job search help. hbofm.org

RITTER CENTER

The Ritter Center has been helping homeless and low-income residents in Marin meet various needs for more than 30 years. Participants are offered everything from primary health care and housing to clothing and employment services. Case plans are developed to help stabilize clients and provide a boost toward self-su fficiency. rittercenter.org

SUNNY HILLS

Originally founded as an orphanage near the turn of the century, this organization believes that all children should have the resources, support and skills to develop into healthy adults. Each year more than 1,600 young people and another 1,100 members of their families are helped by Sunny Hills through programs that focus on the educational, mental health, housing and developmental needs of vulnerable youth. sunnyhillsservices.org

WARM WISHES

Bill Hamm was inspired to found Warm Wishes after giving a pair of gloves to a homeless man more than 20 years ago. A part of MarinLink, Warm Wishes takes a hands-on approach during the winter holiday season by distributing packs of supplies to keep people who live on the street warm and dry. warmwishes.org

• Nutrition

Opposite: Whistlestop participant receiving assistance from volunteer. This page from left: Teens learn cooking skills at Ceres Community Project, which will benefit those in need of healthy food; learning food service skills in the Fresh Starts program at Homeward Bound.

Jimmy Carter is famously quoted as saying the measure of a society is found in how it treats its most vulnerable — and we can all agree a hungry population is one that is not being well cared for. Fortunately for those needing food, the county has several groups offering help.

EXTRA FOOD

More than 40,000 of Marin’s citizens don’t have a secure food supply. Extra Food works by connecting businesses that can offer at least 10 servings of food with volunteers, who pick up and deliver the food within half an hour. Volunteers range from high school students to adults and include public relations and grant-writing specialists. The program also helps reduce methane emissions by reducing food waste. extrafood.org

MARIN CERES COMMUNITY PROJECT

Ceres is founded on the core principles that food is medicine, teens can be empowered to create healthy meals, and community education can promote good eating practices. Having just celebrated its fi fth year, the program continues its mission of teaching young people to prepare nutritious food and delivering it to people with debilitating illnesses. Fresh food reduces long-term health costs and the deliveries alleviate loneliness, ensuring people don’t fall through the cracks. marin.ceresproject.org

SF–MARIN FOOD BANK

Although the ’08 recession may seem a distant memory, its lingering effects, coupled with cuts in government funding, are felt by many. Fortunately, programs like the food bank assist those in need. The Marin branch has strengthened considerably ever since it merged with its San Francisco counterpart in 2011, and last year it helped distribute more than five million pounds of food, the equivalent of 12,000 meals a day. sfmfoodbank.org

ENVIRONMENT

• Land

“It’s so beautiful there,” people often say of Marin, and it’s true. With all the farms and open space, the land here is more than something to post on Instragram.

MARIN AGRICULTURAL LAND TRUST

MALT has been helping families hold on to their farms for more than 30 years, but its programs extend much further. In a recent partnership with the California Academy of Sciences, it arranged a “bioblitz” wherein people went out to Millerton Creek Ranch as citizen-scientists to document animals and plants. Signature events like the Tour de MALT barn-to-barn cycling fundraiser also help promote its causes. malt.org

MARIN CONSERVATION LEAGUE

One of the most esteemed environmental organizations in Marin, the league has made it its mission to not only protect but enhance nature for people to enjoy. Its scope includes studying and analyzing issues, crafting environmental policies, and acquiring and conserving land. Through these efforts the league hopes to mobilize citizens and create policies that benefit our surroundings. marinconservationleague.org

MARIN OPEN LAND TRUST

Marin Open Space Trust has helped save more than 15,000 acres of open space in Marin. It works with other conservation groups to support parks and undeveloped land, believing they have value for both human and nonhuman residents. Recently, it purchased Sky Ranch, a 16-acre parcel it will restore for public use. marinopenspacetrust.org

Waterways

California’s historic drought is casting light on many factors influencing our drinking water supply — including the actions of humans. No matter where you live in the county, your day-today behavior affects watersheds and creeks because, here in Marin, all storm drains flow directly to local creeks, bays or the ocean without treatment.

GALLINAS WATERSHED COUNCIL

The Gallinas Watershed Council attempts to give people who live and spend time in the valley a sense of connection to the creek and watershed. Through local conservation, protection and education, restoration is possible and could result in salmon returning to the area to spawn like they have in the past. The watershed is currently facing stressors like the San Rafael airport expansion as well as trash. gallinaswatershed.org

TOMALES BAY WATERSHED COUNCIL

Formed in 1999 in response to concerns about water quality, the Tomales Bay Watershed Council works to monitor, protect and restore the waters and lands of the area. Some of its other efforts involve enhancing riparian corridors, increasing reliability of water supplies and promoting stewardship. Many problems endanger the watershed, including septic pollution and storm water damage. The council aims to reverse these issues. tomalesbaywatershed.org

TURTLE ISLAND RESTORATION NETWORK

Basing its work on scientific principles, the Turtle Island Restoration Network advocates for the world’s oceans and marine wildlife. It works with communities to promote sustainable marine policies and raise awareness about biodiversity on land and in oceans. Programs include naturalist training and salmon and other wildlife protection. seaturtles.org

• Animals

Marin has a very high level of biodiversity, with more than 490 species of birds observed in the county. Wild or domesticated, land or sea dwelling — these organizations have them all covered.

HUNGRY OWL PROJECT

This education and rehab center began in partnership with WildCare in 2001, aiming to address the increase in owls, hawks and other raptors testing positive for toxic rodenticides. The project attempts to reduce use of these substances, which cause slow and painful deaths; operates programs like Raptor Rescue and Reunite; and has installed owl-cams to instill respect for the majestic creatures. hungryowl.org

MARINE MAMMAL CENTER

This veterinary research hospital and educational center is dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of sick and injured creatures. Headquartered in Sausalito, it has rescued and cared for more than 20,000 animals, and its new research facility should boost those impressive numbers even more. The center also promotes study of mammalian illnesses like cancer, found in 17 percent of adult sea lions at the hospital. marinemammalcenter.org

MARIN HUMANE SOCIETY

The Marin Humane Society started in San Anselmo in 1907 to improve the lives of animals and people through advocacy, education and support. Since then, it has been a leader in animal welfare, expanding efforts to save more animals, and raising awareness through signature events like Catapalooza and Woofstock. The organization offers training courses, workshops and information on topics ranging from animal care in a natural disaster to concerns about feral cats. marinhumanesociety.org m

Opposite: Citizen scientists identify wildflowers at Leiss Ranch for MALT. This page from top: volunteers complete watershed restoration efforts for Turtle Island Restoration Network; California sea lions ready for release at the Marine Mammal Center.

marin gives back

Making Communities Better Together

“Part of Bank of Marin’s mission is to help the communities we serve to prosper. Supporting 10,000 Degrees’ goal of helping more underserved students graduate from college was a natural alignment of missions,” says Barbara Dalmau, Senior Vice President at Bank of Marin. “Our paths have been similar, too,” she says. “Both organizations have roots in Marin and have grown to serve communities in the greater North and East Bays. During my nine years on the 10,000 Degrees Board of Directors, I’ve seen fi rsthand the excellent work that 10,000 Degrees does, and that has fueled my commitment.”

“At 10,000 Degrees we know that earning a college education makes a lifelong difference for our students, and we’ve

found great synergy in working with Bank of Marin. They lead in partnering with nonprofits like ours to provide more opportunities for families and communities to thrive,” says Kim Mazzuca, President & CEO of 10,000 Degrees. “And it’s not just that Bank of Marin has supported us fi nancially. Barbara’s leadership on our board has lent us expertise and given us a key mission ambassador in the promotion of education.”

Pictured: Barbara Dalmau, Senior Vice President at Bank of Marin and Kim Mazzuca, President & CEO of 10,000 Degrees.

10000degrees.org, San Rafael, CA; bankofmarin.com, Novato, CA

PHOTO: RICHARD WHEELER

marin gives back

Kick Off the Holiday Season

Join us at Michelle Schmitt’s 7th annual Holiday Concert benefitting Extrafood.org at 142 Throckmorton Theatre December 3rd. Michelle Schmitt, a local singer/songwriter, considers herself blessed. She has witnessed the power of the human spirit overcoming obstacles. This is the very heart of Michelle’s message both in her personal & professional life. She donates 100% of the proceeds from her music to people in need.

Schmitt is involved with organizations that make a di fference with youth at risk, the LBGT community, St Vincent’s School for Boys, Ritter House & Adopt a Family to name a few. She has also devoted 25 years helping women in recovery. Along with Heidi Krahling (owner & chef at Insalatas &

Marinitas), Michelle has joined the family at ExtraFood. org , an organization that picks up excess fresh food from businesses and delivers it immediately to nonprofits serving Marin’s most vulnerable people. When asked why she gets involved, Schmitt simply says that for her, giving back what she has so generously been given is the most important principle in her life. “It is essential to me that I go to sleep at night knowing that I did something, big or small, that impacted the world in a good way.” Go to Michelleschmitt.com for more info.

Pictured: Heidi Krahling and Michelle Schmitt Michelleschmitt.com , San Anselmo, CA

PHOTO: CLAUDINE GOSSET

Dagmar Dolby Alzheimer’s Activist and Philanthropist Lost her husband with the disease in 2013 Co-founder, Ray Dolby Brain Health Center

Michaela Hoag Alzheimer’s Activist and Philanthropist Care partner for parents with Alzheimer’s Founder and Chair, Part the Cloud

That’s why we work with aspiring and established leaders every day to help them build the skills and connections that can take their impact to the next level. With confident and prepared leaders, our nonprofits are better equipped to create healthy, happy communities.

Where volunteers, nonprofits and leaders shine.

CVNL honors local leaders and their causes at the Heart of Marin™ Awards on Thursday, January 7, 2016 at the Marin Center Exhibit Hall from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Join us as we recognize all of the nominees and recipients. Purchase tickets or reserve a table of 10 at cvnl.org/2015hom.

Executive Search & Transition Services Leadership Training

Consulting Services Volunteer Services

We know that passion alone isn’t enough when it comes to creating strong nonprofits.

HEART OF MARIN MEDIA SPONSOR

WHAT IS ROTARY?

We’re a leadership organization. We are active community members, business professionals, civic leaders, and anyone interested in improving our local community.

PRANDI Property Management proudly supports two local Rotary Clubs... and enjoys working with other Rotary Club Members.

Please call us to be our GUEST at one of our Rotary Clubs in Marin.

Residential property management is our only business. We do not buy or sell real estate.

Melissa Prandi, MPM® District 5150 Vice-Membership Chair Rotary Club of Mission San Rafael

Christine Goodin, MPM® Past President Rotary Club of Terra Linda

feel PULL a

Destinations

THE LATEST LOCAL TRAVEL DEALS AND GETAWAYS PLUS JOURNEYS AROUND THE GLOBE

SNOWMADS

A former Kirkwood Mountain and Steamboat Resort employee and travel writer has happily taken a pass.

BY MATTHEW POOLE

Hitting the slopes at Idaho’s Sun Valley.

IT WAS THE No. 1 topic in Lake Tahoe that nobody wanted to discuss. Will we fi nally get decent snowfall in the Sierra this ski season? Will the 50/50 predictions for a super El Niño winter pan out for Northern California? Throughout the fall I asked pretty much everyone I know in the Tahoe ski industry these two questions, and the reply was pretty much the same: “Well, I sure hope so.” It was as if a positive response would somehow jinx the upcoming ski season.

Already $1,578 in the hole on two consecutive seasons of unused Tahoe ski passes, I was leery of buying yet another barely used ski pass. Yes, skiing is expensive, but this is ridiculous. But if there’s a silver lining in this dark, snowless cloud, it’s that the ski industry has become well aware of the plight of its loyal customers and created some enticing incentives to keep us on the slopes.

Mega Pass, Mega Savings

Foremost among these incentives — and a result of the recent consolidation within the global ski industry — are the mega ski passes such as the M.A.X. Pass, Mountain Collective and Epic Pass, offering access to multiple resorts throughout North America, as well as sister resorts in Europe, South America, New Zealand and even Japan. The result is a paradigm shift in how skiers plan their winter vacations. It’s no longer about how many days you can squeeze into one resort, but how many resorts you can squeeze into a season.

“This year, for the fi rst time, we purchased Mountain Collective passes,” says Mill Valley resident Kevin Knowles. “You get two free days of skiing at more than a dozen fantastic resorts, including Squaw and Alpine, Alta and Snowbird, Mammoth, Jackson Hole, Aspen, and Whistler. Sun Valley was added to the Mountain Collective this year and we love going there — especially in a poor snow year due to their great snowmaking capacity.” Knowles says he purchased the passes for his family of four for around $940 total, which

included no blackout dates, 50 percent off additional lift tickets and 25 percent off esort lodging. “ We even got a bonus third free day at Squaw and Alpine, so even if we end up skiing only a handful of days at Tahoe this winter, the pass will pay for itself.”

Ski City

With its recent acquisition of Park City ski resort in Utah, Vail Resorts has made its Epic Pass one of the best bargains for the 2015–16 ski season. The price of a single-day Park City lift ticket is currently $122, which makes buying an $809 Epic Pass — getting you into Heavenly, Northstar and Kirkwood — almost a no-brainer if you plan on skiing more than seven days this season.

“The strength of the Epic Pass,” says Margo Van Ness, senior manager of communications at Park City, “is that guests can gain access to not only Tahoe, Utah, Colorado and the Midwest, but also international partners.” In a clever marketing tactic, Vail Resorts hosted The Epic Race in 2013–14, a season-long challenge to ski all 26 resorts spread across four countries, with the top 10 winners receiving lifetime Epic passes.

Where to Go

So now that you have your shiny new pass to all these great ski resorts throughout the states and abroad, the next question is “Where should I go?” Some factors you’ll want to take into account are the ease of getting there

— hint: look for nonstop fl ights — the quality of the snow (and snowmaking equipment), and the après-ski scene. I’ve been to most of the major resorts in the western U.S. and have great things to say about all of them, but three of my favorites are Park City, Steamboat and Sun Valley, all accessible via nonstop fl ights from SFO, with quick shuttle service to the resorts, awesome ski terrain and plenty to do after the skiing is done.

Park City Mountain Resort (Epic Pass) is the easiest of the three in terms of travel. It’s a two-hou r fl ight from SFO to Salt Lake International, then a brief 35-minute drive via All Resort Express shuttle service (SLC is also the only airport where my luggage usually arrives at the carousel before I do). This year

Vail Resorts invested more than $50 million to combine Park City and Canyons resorts to create Park City Mountain Resort, the largest ski area in the U.S. with 7,300 acres of skiable terrain, 300-plus trails and 41 lifts. Park City has an average annual snowfall of 411.1 inches, 18 times more than the national average, plus hundreds of hotels and condo units in every price range. (Tip: go with Stein Erikson Lodge’s giant suites for families and the übercool Main and Sky for couples.)

I used to work at the Steamboat Ski Resort (M.A.X. Pass) in Colorado, and I still dream of skiing through the aspens there — it’s a special place. Steamboat offers an entire mountain range of skiable terrain: 165 trails spread over 2,965 acres of the lightest, sweetest

Champagne Powder in Colorado, with an average of 349 inches per year. And yes, getting there is easy, with direct flights from SFO to Hayden Airport via United Express and a quick 30-minute shuttle ride via GO Alpine. Lodging ranges from condos and luxury hotels to budget-friendly motels and single-family home rentals, but for skiers the Steamboat Grand’s ski valet service makes it my top choice.

I love the Sun Valley Resort (Mountain Collective Pass) in Idaho so much I even drove there once from Sacramento just to go skiing for a few days (never again). If you want guaranteed snow — 555 snow guns blanketing 78 percent of groomable terrain — and an 80 percent chance of sunshine, well, they call it Sun Valley for a reason. Two mountains, Bald and Dollar, separate the beginners from the advanced, so there’s rarely a lift line. Eighteen lifts service 121 runs over 2,154 skiable acres, and 910 total guest rooms are all within walking distance of the entire resort. It doesn’t have the après-bar scene of Park City or Steamboat, but families love it here. Friedman Memorial Airport in Hailey, Idaho, is just 14 miles from the resort, with nonstop United flights departing daily December 17–March 28 and a complimentary guest resort shuttle from the airport.

Snow Guarantees

“Sure, this global ski pass thing is all fine,” you say, “but I grew up skiing Squaw.” Well, yes, so did I. And to keep you, me and the other Sierraphiles happy, the Tahoe Super Pass is flexible. As stated by the website, “Weather happens.”

Which is why they’ve increased the pass perks this year — including unlimited 50 percent discounts on lift tickets at all Mountain Collective resorts — and added a worry-free guarantee: if you don’t ski at least five days on your 2015–16 Tahoe Super Pass, they’ll credit you up to four days toward your 2016–17 pass, presumably offsetting you r fi nancial loss (but you better read that fi ne print very carefully).

Fellow Tahoe skiers, I feel your pain. But they say change is good, so perhaps it’s time to look into alternative vacation fund distribution. Hope for the best, of course (Lake Tahoe, is another 2010–11 powder season too much to ask?), but also consider the new multi-destination pass options — and new travel opportunities — available for the upcoming ski season. m

Opposite: The tram at Squaw Valley. This page from top: Powder time at Steamboat; Sun Valley Club Restaurant.

Travel With Ease

To avoid being “that person” (the one holding up the boarding process due to bag struggles) this holiday travel season, you need to plan a bit before you leave. We’ve asked Heather Sanchez, a veteran Hawaiian Airlines flight attendant, for her tips on de-stressing the boarding experience MIMI TOWLE

• Pack light if you are carrying on luggage. Wear your biggest shoes and heaviest jacket or sweater on the plane and leave the shampoo and bath products at home; most hotels offer an unending supply.

• Most airlines allow passengers one carry-on and one personal item (purse, briefcase, laptop bag, small backpack or small musical instrument). Avoid having to check your bag by following these rules: bags must not exceed 25 pounds and must not exceed 22 inches long, 14 inches wide and 9 inches high.

• Use containers or ziplock bags to organize your belongings and keep clothing from getting wrinkled.

• Parents are allowed to bring car seats, infant-carrying seats and strollers as part of their carry-on allowance as long as the items can fit in the overhead compartment.

• Check with your credit card provider; most airlines have credit card programs that offer great perks, including free checked bags.

• For carry-on, keep your bag of toiletries separate and accessible. The Transportation Security Administration allows you to bring one quart-size ziplock bag through the checkpoint holding 3.4 ounces per container of liquids, aerosols, gels, creams and pastes.

San Francisco Sleep Over

Special occasions, office parties or gingerbread teas — here are a few lodging options across the bridge to consider this holiday season. M.T.

1 O n the Embarcadero

The swanky Hotel Vitale and attached Americano Restaurant is celebrating the season with a “Park, Shop and Sparkle” package, featuring 15 percent off your stay (two-night minimum). Highlights include a special performance by the Notre Dame Children’s Choir, and throughout the month guests can indulge their sweet tooth with churros and hot cocoa or take a relaxing 10-minute chair massage break in the lobby. Rates start at $245. jdvhotels.com

2 A Mont So Fair

Experience the holidays at the Fairmont San Francisco, where the luxury destination company Fairmont Hotels and Resorts opened its first namesake hotel in 1907. The opening was delayed after the 1906 earthquake; architect Julia Morgan was called in to repair damage and reinforce the structure. Daughters of silver baron James Graham Fair planned the Fairmont as a posthumous monument to their father that would carry on the family name in an exclusive location at the top of Nob Hill. This month enjoy holiday brunches, gingerbread tea and festive decor. Rates start at $259. fairmont.com/sanfrancisco

3 Pacific Heights Heaven

Carefully note the location of Hotel Drisco, because once you’re in Pacific Heights it’s challenging to locate it amid the many mansions (it’s at the corner of Pacific and Broderick avenues). Built in 1903, the place makes an ideal escape. You can walk to the Presidio, shop on Sacramento Street and dine in Fillmore Street cafes. A breakfast buffet and an afternoon wine reception are both delicious and complimentary. Guest reviews deem the staff f this locally owned and operated hotel “gracious, capable and friendly.” Rates start at $375. hoteldrisco.com

Sweaters and Sweats

Looking for coastal cozy? Think Mendocino in December. Long beach walks, warmed toes in front of wood-burning fi replaces (abundant in this town) and locally produced wine just might be the antidote to holiday craziness. With a little more than three hours’ travel time to get to this historic logging town, the journey through wine country or up the coast is also part of the experience. And once you arrive, get into the spirit of the season with the annual Festival of Lights, held at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens every weekend through December 20. Here are just some of the town’s other attractions. M.T.

50 AND FABULOUS

TANK OF GAS

HIGHLIGHTS Mendocino Village is the only coastal town in the state to be designated as a historical landmark, which happened when California joined the Union in 1850. Stay in a historic home-turned-inn like MacCallum House, or walk the streets and catch the docent-led tours every Saturday at 11 a.m. starting from the Kelley House Museum. maccallumhouse.com, kelleyhousemuseum.org

NEW Located in the heart of the village on Kasten Street, the Trillium Cafe and Inn has already been recognized by the Wall Street Journa l and Los Angeles Magazine as a not-to-miss dining spot. High on the list of popular dishes is the seasonal Dungeness crab–stuffed phyllo with Meyer lemon preserves, perfect with a glass of locally produced wine. trilliummendocino.com

AIRTIGHT PARTNERSHIP With Virgin

America now flying to Hawaii, the airline is offering pretty compelling incentives for Elevate (mile club) members to become Airbnb hosts there, as in 20,000 points for signing up. And in reverse, members will get 1 point per $1 spent on completed Airbnb stays. virginamerica.com/airbnb

DETAILS Lodgings range from quaint to luxe and, compared to many other locations, won’t break the bank. The high-end historic farm and eco resort Stanford Inn, half a mile south of the village on the bluff, starts at $250, while the Didjeridoo Dreamtime Inn, also a great choice, has rooms for under $100. stanfordinn.com, didjeridooinn.com

In 1965, the Omni La Costa Resort and Spa , with it glistening pools, his-and-hers gyms and specialty mineral baths, opened in Carlsbad after an impressive $3 million construction, the first spa of its kind to be sanctioned by the American Medical Association. Fifty years later, this exemplary spa still leads the field with its progressive wellness therapies, top-notch therapists and hacienda-style setting, replete with outdoor Roman waterfall showers, soaking pools and a meditative stone path labyrinth. The “La Costa lifestyle” has been embraced over the years by luminaries like Jackie Kennedy, who luxuriated at the spa, and Charlton Heston and Johnny Carson, who played on the courts. While greats like Billy Casper, Sam Snead and Arnold Palmer graced the resort’s emerald green fairways, today’s golfers enjoy two fully renovated courses: the Champions and the Legends, along with knowledgeable instruction at the La Costa Golf Performance Institute and custom club fittings by Cobra Puma Golf. Mind-body-spirit seekers gravitate to the on-site Deepak Chopra Center for meditation, yoga, ayurvedic healing and Perfect Health workshops. A soak in the infinityedge adults-only hot tubs overlooking the golf courses makes a nice end to a day of healthy La Costa living. Guest rooms start at $199. omnihotels.com ANN WYCOFF

LONDON

On the trail of a famous composer, old friends gather in the city of fog for shopping, food and music.

BY KIRSTEN JONES NEFF

NINETEEN YEARS AGO when my husband and I moved to Novato, our oldest daughter had just turned one and I was quite pregnant with our second. The decision to buy our house was spur of the moment. We were certain this was the type of wide-open spot where we wanted to raise our family, but to get the place we had to put in an offer the same day we looked at it, so we made the offer with no notion of where our children would attend school. Little known to us, just as we were moving into our home, some local parents were busy writing the charter for what would soon become the Novato Charter School (NCS), and that little school was destined to play a signi ficant role in our lives. The day we walked our eldest to her fi rst class marked the beginning of a new chapter, shared with a group of NCS parents who would become our dear friends.

This little backstory was very much on my mind as my husband and I boarded a plane for England last June. We were on our way to meet these friends, many of whom we had not seen for some time because our children are now in or on their way to college, and our lives have moved us in different directions. The long flight gave me an opportunity to grow nostalgic for our years raising children together. As we built gardens, led field trips, and spearheaded art projects, we discovered we had a lot to share with each other. Among us were a musician, a music a ficionado, two winemakers, a fine art photographer, an artist/furniture designer, a writer and an engineer. We found in each other an enthusiasm for the arts and a penchant for adventure — exactly the combination that would lead us, a decade later, to plan this trip. We would meet in England to attend the London Symphony Orchestra’s performance of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony on the night of the summer solstice.

It was Friday afternoon when we all arrived in London, with several days to explore our English environs before the concert. Two of the men in our group hail from Great Britain and still have family and friends across the country, so we were invited to indulge in a classic British tradition: the

weekend country party. Luggage in tow, we made our way from Paddington Station to London Euston Station, spending just enough time peering out the back of a black cab to get a sense of the pulsing creativity and industry that was in store for us upon our return to London. Then we ran down the queue to make the train for Sta ffordshire.

We had been invited to visit the historic Thorpe Constantine Estate outside the town of Tamworth, an hour-and-a-half north of London. While there we would also travel to Lich field, the childhood home of our winemaker friend Tom Stubbs (of Stubbs Vineyard in Petaluma). These village names meant little to me as we boarded the train, but speeding north into the countryside, past fields of ripe wheat lit by the late evening sun, I began to feel part of something distinctly romantic and Downton Abbey–esque. The European duality of living a modern existence among remnants

of history feels particularly relevant in Great Britain, where a state-of-the-art Virgin train dropped us near a friend’s home built in 1651. A product of baby-state California, I am smitten with antiquity and admire the Brits’ nonchalance as they straddle history and modernity in their daily lives.

Thorpe Constantine is now a private home, with offices for lease in the former stables and fishing ponds that host regular tournaments, but it is easy to envision the bustle of the village, with horses, servants and parishioners moving to and fro about the grounds in preparation for the annual hunt. We indulged in an evening meal derived largely from the estate’s kitchen garden, including young potatoes, a local artisanal goat cheese (Innes) and a raspberry trifle for dessert, before attempting to sleep off ur jet lag. The next day we set off or nearby Lichfield, with no preparation other than Tom Stubbs’ casual mention of a cathedral.

The European duality of living a modern existence among remnants of history feels particularly relevant in Great Britain.

Opposite, clockwise from top: Tower Bridge and The Shard; Barbican Hall; food at Hélène Darroze. This page: The grounds at Thorpe Constantine.

It was di fficult to imagine the sight we would behold in the center of Lich field, a smallish city of about 33,000, unremarkable at fi rst glance. The Lich field Cathedral, built between 1195 and 1340, is made of sandstone, with a central spire reaching 252 feet. This was a holy site of martyrdoms from the Roman period after Julius Caesar invaded Britain in 55 B.C., and the original structure was built in 700 B.C. to house the bones of Anglo-Saxon missionary St. Chad. The medieval cathedral is considered one of the oldest places of Christian worship in England. A surprise both inside and out, especially in the context of its humble surroundings, it is as grand as many of the most renowned

The medieval cathedral is considered one of the oldest places of Christian worship in England.

European cathedrals. We sat in the pews admiring towering works of stained glass and listening to the choir practice before meandering back outside to explore the cobblestone streets of the nearby historic district.

Tucked away just across the street from the cathedral is the home (now a museum) and peaceful interior garden of Erasmus Darwin, a polymath physician, poet and naturalist who was the grandfather of Charles Darwin. The less vaunted Erasmus published theories on evolution — in verse, no less — that appear to have laid the groundwork for his grandson’s scienti fic legacy.

Just a stone’s throw away from Erasmus’s home is the well-preserved center of old Lich field, with 230 listed historical sites, most notably the Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum and Bookshop. Johnson, who published the fi rst English-language dictionary, is one of the most important figures in the history of English letters, a man of extraordinary intelligence who was posthumously diagnosed with Tourette’s syndrome. Tom Stubbs, who shares an alma mater with Johnson, played tour guide, educating us about the superstars of his childhood

home. It was a thrill for us born-and-bred Californians to see our old friends in their native environments, and it made me appreciate the divide — both cultural and physical — they had crossed in moving to the States.

By the time we stepped out of the Euston station the next day, I also appreciated the divide between the British countryside and modern London. It feels as if the whole world has convened on London these days. Each new neighborhood is pounding with redevelopment energy. An international assortment of artists, chefs, fi nanciers and oil magnates has gathered here, along with a lot of beautiful young people who seem to be taking advantage of both the bustling economy and the street-side pub culture on summer evenings. Two decades ago when I last spent signi ficant time in London, the only culinary coup was fi nding decent fi sh and chips, and the contemporary architecture was decidedly uneventful. Now it is di fficult to decide where to eat in London given the many world-famous chefs

offering sublime meals in gorgeous restaurants, and if you stand next to the Thames and slowly spin full circle, you will see a series of radical structures. The city now boasts some of Europe’s most interesting postmodern architecture, labeled with nicknames like the Shard, the Gherkin, the Cheese Grater, the Walkie-Talkie and the Lipstick.

The Shard, an 87-story neo-futuristic jagged-peaked skyscraper, has become the most notable feature of the London skyline and the tallest building in the European Union. It has a magnetic pull, so we started ou r fi rst day back in the city with brunch at the elegant Ting Restaurant on the 35t h floor. This restaurant is the place to get your bearings, as it a ffords a 360-degree view of just how massive and impressive London has become, and it is fun to count the construction cranes littered across the cityscape. After brunch, Beth Moon, whose photographs of ancient trees have enchanted the world of late, rushed off with a group to the Tate Modern museum,

just a half mile away. Others decided to visit the British Museum to peruse the artifacts from around the world that colonial Britain amassed, some sparking ongoing controversy regarding repatriation.

We spent the rest of the afternoon like teenagers, poking around Chelsea and Sloane Square. Three of us broke off o follow a lead to the city’s “best” consignment shop at Sign of the Times on Chelsea Green. The place is rife with Prada, Chloe and Alexander McQueen, but we spent most of our time downstairs working our way through the more practical ready-to-wear. Next we made a pilgrimage to Lower Sloane Street to sample the work of chocolatier Gerard Coleman at Artisan du Chocolat. Followers claim Coleman is single-handedly responsible for the international salted caramel craze.

The dining options — classic, innovative farm-to-table, creative fusion — are overwhelming, which is why London has replaced Madrid as the European foodie city. On our fi rst night, local friends guided us to chef

Opposite: Lichfield Cathedral. This page: Dishes at Hélène Darroze.

Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus, which boasts two Michelin stars. His in fluence is clearly French and designed around fresh produce. The vin jaune and chervil sauce on Herefordshire snails — and we can agree that escargot are all about the sauce, right? — was rich but not heavy. Also memorable was the Devonshire crab with elder flower and new-season almond sauce. For dessert we shared artisanal cheeses from cheese-monger Bernard Antony’s cellar.

The next day my friend Kathy, the artist and furniture designer, and I acted on a hint from another local friend about set-price lunches. A number of London’s Michelinstarred chefs offer an a ffordable daytime menu of three, five or seven courses, and reservations are usually attainable. Hélène Darroze was recently named the Veuve Clicquot Best Female Chef in the World, so her eponymous restaurant at the Connaught in Mayfair was the obvious choice. We used what looks like a small wooden game board with labeled marbles to pick our course choices. Staying with the playful spirit of adventure, we ordered what appeared exotic — skate with fennel, cockles and samphire and duck with Tokyo turnip, rainbow radish and mānuka honey — and found ourselves equally enchanted by the flavors and presentation of each dish. We each spent less than $75 and left feeling we had just had one of the best dining experiences of our lives.

The beauty of London is that you can revel in a Michelin-starred meal in Mayfair one moment and play hipster among the artists and trendsetters of Soho, or Portobello, or Kensal Green, or Notting Hill Gate the next. I woke early one morning and made my way on foot through the Bunhill Fields cemetery and down a few narrow side streets until it was obvious I had arrived in the current “it” neighborhood of Shoreditch. Maybe it was the “Pizza N’ Fashion” sign a young woman set up in front of her pop-up shop, or maybe it was the TreeXO ffice in Hoxton Square — a geometric shared working space with eight cubicles, built around a tree — but it became clear I had reached a neighborhood oozing with edgy creativity.

Just off oxton Square I wandered into the Breakfast Club, a riot of color, international

hipness and the smell of fresh-baked sweet rolls. If you want to mingle with the young crowd who will likely defi ne the aesthetics of London’s future, take a seat here, order a cup of coffee, and watch and listen for a while.

That same evening we savored the epitome of London’s farm-to-table craze at Skye Gyngell’s lovely Spring Restaurant in Somerset House. A Tudor palace originally built for the Duke of Cornwall in 1547, this neoclassical building between the Thames and the Strand is now a creative hub, redeveloped by privatepublic partnership, hosting everything from live performance and outdoor film screenings in summer to gallery shows and ice skating in winter. After dinner at Spring we wandered into the courtyard, where stagehands prepared for a dance performance that would take place before the 500 fountains.

Finally, the solstice, the day of our concert, arrived. We met early in the evening at the Jugged Hare pub, just across from the venue, for a pint before the show. We marveled at The Barbican Centre across the way, a massive concrete structure that is a prime example of the brutalist (“raw”) architecture of the ’60s and ’70s. The masses of cement were not what I had imagined for the setting of one of

classical music’s most humane works, but inside, a gently sloping wooden floor leads to an intimate concert hall, making up for the cold exterior. As the musicians entered we were so close it felt we could pat them on the back. When Bernard Haitink, the lively 86-year-old conductor, motioned for the fi rst note, we collectively exhaled and settled in for what we knew would be a symphonic journey.

And a journey it was. Beethoven’s piece, which he wrote between 1812 and 1824, enveloped and carried us across the joy, sorrow, longing and exaltation of a lifetime. At the beginning of the fourth movement, when the voices of the choir joined the orchestra with the lyrics from von Schiller’s poem Ode to Joy, the hair on my arms stood on end. According to the program, the poem lauds “the joys of fellowship, the happiness of married life, the wonders of nature and the universe and the eternal mystery of divine love.” I looked at my husband and our dear friends sitting beside us, the people with whom we shared so many poignant years. In that moment I felt both the sharpest ache of time — our children growing and our stories evolving — and the deepest gratitude for the fortune and fullness of the moment. m

Beethoven’s piece, which he wrote between 1812 and 1824, enveloped and carried us across the joy, sorrow, longing and exaltation of a lifetime.

IF YOU GO

• STAY

Just across the way from the Barbican Centre is the Montcalm Hotel at The Brewery London City, a boutique five-star hotel located in the original 18th-century Whitbread Brewery. Enjoy a pint or a meal before the show at The Jugged Hare , also in the Brewery. themontcalmlondoncity.co.uk, thejuggedhare.com

If you prefer proximity to the theater district, the Waldorf Hilton is an elegant hotel in a palatial historic building at Covent Garden, including an expansive LA Fitness club downstairs, with guest access. waldorfhilton.co.uk

•

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Get your bearings at brunch — pick a table overlooking the city at Ting in the Shangri-La Hotel, situated on the 35th floor of the The Shard. ting-shangri-la.com

For a casual comfort food breakfast with London’s hipsters and creatives, stop by the colorful and quirky Breakfast Club in Shoreditch. thebreakfastclubcafes.com

• LUNCH

Reserve ahead and try the Lunch Formula menu at world-renowned French chef Hélène Darroze’s two-Michelin-star restaurant at the Connaught in Mayfair. the-connaught.co.uk/mayfair-restaurants/ helene-darroze

• DINNER

For high-end farm-to-table dining, try Spring Restaurant in the Somerset House, an arts and cultural center on the Strand above the Thames. springrestaurant.co.uk/about/spring

Try chef Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus, another Michelinstarred restaurant, for innovative and locally sourced modern French cuisine. hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk

•

FOR FUN

Sign of the Times in Chelsea offers designer labels at a fraction of the original price. Pop downstairs for casual wear. signofthetimesdressagency.com

Sample the chocolate that has captured the hearts of London’s famed chefs at Artisan du Chocolat artisanduchocolat.com

Opposite: London Symphony Orchestra’s performance of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. This page: Barbican Centre.

m ada

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Out & About

CALENDAR / ON THE SCENE / DINE

DANCE

THRU

(SF).

Calendar

Golden Gate Theatre (SF). 888.746.1799, shnsf.com

DEC 3–20 The Golden Girls: The Christmas Episodes Four worldclass drag queens hit the stage to portray Rose, Blanche, Dorothy and Sophia in their bestloved holiday moments. Victoria Theatre (SF). goldengirlschristmas. eventbrite.com

DANCE

THEATER

THRU DEC 5 Date Night at Pet Emergency Lisa Rothman presents her new solo show, which centers on a couple struggling with the realities of a newborn while on a special date caring for their dog, who has overdosed on antibiotics. The Marsh (Berkeley). 415.282.3055, themarsh.org

THRU DEC 6 If/Then

This original new musical centers on living in New York today, along with the possibilities of tomorrow. The story simultaneously follows one woman’s two possible life paths. SHN Orpheum Theatre (SF). shnsf.com

THRU DEC 13 Odysseo

Internationally acclaimed entertainment group Cavalia

presents an immersive theatrical experience in which horses star alongside riders, acrobats and aerialists. AT&T Park (SF). 866.999.8111, cavalia.net

THRU DEC 13 Scrooge in Love Everyone’s favorite humbug, Ebenezer Scrooge, stars in this follow-up to A Christmas Carol. One year after three ghosts changed his life, old

friends and some new ones are back to help him fi nd his lost love, Belle. Eureka Theatre (SF). 415.255.8207, 42ndstmoon.org

THRU DEC 20 The Ladies of the Camellias

Lillian Groag’s farce comes to Marin. Set in late 19th century Paris, the play describes a mythical meeting between two real-life dramatic divas

of the day. Barn Theatre (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.com

DEC 1–27

A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder

Join Monty Navarro, a distant heir to a family fortune, as he sets out to get rich by any means necessary — all while juggling a mistress, a fiancée and some seriously illegal tendencies.

DEC 4–13

Beckon and Whether to Weather

This double bill of queer-identi fied world premieres comes courtesy of EmSpace Dance and Detour Dance and explores the topics of cruising, catcalling, love and catastrophe. NOHspace (SF). emspacedance.org; detourdance.com

DEC 6 Beyond the Land of Sweets This holiday alternative to the Nutcracker presents favorite dances from the classic ballet along with winter traditions from a variety of other cultures. Herbst Theatre (SF). presidiodance.org

DEC 10–13 Intercontinental Collaborations #6 The biennial showcase — now in its 15th year

THEATER / COMEDY / MUSIC / GALLERIES / MUSEUMS / EVENTS / FILM EDITED BY CALIN VAN PARIS

DEC 13 The Velveteen Rabbit ODC co-artistic director KT Nelson’s now-classic interpretation of Margery Williams’ beloved children’s book The Velveteen Rabbit returns for its 29th season. YBCA

415.978.2787, odcdance.org

— presents the work of director and choreographer Jess Curtis, spotlighting his international collaborations. CounterPulse (SF). jesscurtisgravity.org

DEC 12–13 Marin Ballet:

Nutcracker Marin Ballet presents its rendition of the classic tale complete with Victorian costumes, larger-than-life sets and the excitement of more than 200 dancers prepared to spread holiday cheer to children (and adults) of all ages. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). marincenter.org

DEC 16–DEC 31

Nutcracker Dream along with Clara as she encounters sugar plum fairies, toy soldiers and more alongside her Nutcracker Prince — the classic ballet is a lovely way to get into the holiday spirit. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.861.5600, sfballet.org

DEC 18–20 Splinters in Our Ankles

Geraldcaseldance presents this unique movement essay, which explores the colonial origins of one of the most popular folk dances in the Philippines. ODC Theater (SF). 415.863.9834, odcdance.org

DEC 17–27 The Christmas Ballet Styles including tap, ballet, swing and more help bring in the holidays in fun fashion, with classical and cool elements designed to enchant and envelop audiences. YBCA (SF). 415.912.1899, smuinballet.org

COMEDY

TUESDAYS Tuesday Comedy Funnies An evening of hilarity featuring comedians who make us laugh and think. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, throck mortontheatre.org

DEC 31 Best of the San Francisco Stand-Up Comedy Competition Laugh your way into 2016 at this annual standup competition, this year featuring Kabir Singh, winner of last year’s event. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). marincounty.org

DEC 31 Paula Poundstone Funny girl Paula Poundstone welcomes the new year with her wry, intelligent humor and of course, plenty of laughs. Palace of Fine Arts (SF). 415.563.6504, palace offi nearts.org

MUSIC

SUNDAYS Traditional Irish Session Head to Fairfax for an open Irish-pub-style jam session. The Sleeping Lady (Fairfax). 415.485.1182, sleepinglady fairfax.com

THRU DEC 6 Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg Richard Wagner sets aside gods and goddesses to tell a human story about the power of art. When a young singer arrives in a proud German city determined to dazzle the townsfolk and a beautiful woman, his attempts to prove himsel f fi nd sympathy in a wise cobbler-poet. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

Beauty. Simplicity. Creativity. The elegance of clean, modern design. Free gift-wrapping. Attentive, experienced sales staff. All this plus thousands of handcrafted designer gifts for your home and tabletop, wearable art, jewelry, and much more await you at Terrestra in downtown Mill Valley. Featuring the largest-in-USA selection of fine leather goods from Mywalit of Lucca, Italy.

‘‘Wish I could skip the shopping crowds this season!’’

THRU DEC 9 The Barber of Seville

First-time opera-goers will love this tale as imagined by Spanish director Emilio Sagi. Friendly Figaro makes it his mission to aid a young woman as she attempts to escape her guardian and take up with a noble suitor. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

DEC 3 Glide’s Annual Holiday Jam: Love Matters Celebrate the season’s enduring theme of love and acceptance at Glide’s

annual concert, which aims to bring audiences and communities together through live music, spoken word and storytelling. The War field (SF). 415.345.0900, the war fieldtheatre.com

DEC 3 Michelle Schmitt Holiday Benefit Concert

Join Michelle Schmitt and her band for an evening of well-loved holiday songs performed to danceable (and nostalgic) effect. The annual show benefits extrafood. org. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley).

415.383.9600, throck mortontheatre.org

DEC 5 Zappa Plays Zappa In this tribute band, Frank Zappa’s son Dweezil Zappa carries on his family’s tradition of American rock. The War field (SF). 415.345.0900, thewar fieldtheatre.com

DEC 8–13 The Fall of the House of Usher The intense atmosphere created in Edgar Allen Poe’s Gothic tale is brought to life with music and innovative video projections. War Memorial Opera House

(SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

DEC 11 Mayflower Chorus: This Shining Night Ignite your holiday spirits with the 40-voice May flower Chorus, plus soloists and ensembles, as they perform seasonal songs with rich harmonies. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). marin county.org

DEC 11–12 It’s a Wonderful Life Enjoy Frank Capra’s great American holiday classic as you never have before, as the S.F. Symphony accompanies the story of George Bailey and his guardian angel with a live performance of Dimitri Tiomkin’s score. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

DEC 12 American Bach Soloists: Bach's Christmas Oratorio Requiring four vocal soloists, a full complement of wind and brass instruments, and choir, Bach's oratorio is an expansive piece composed of six separate cantatas originally performed over multiple days. Saint Ignatius Church (SF). 415.621.7900, americanbach.org

DEC 12 Kitka Wintersongs Celebrate wintertime with Kitka, a women’s vocal ensemble. The group’s acclaimed holiday program features seasonal music from a wide variety of Eastern European ethnic and spiritual traditions — think Slavic folk carols and Baltic pagan incantations. Other Marin JCC (San Rafael). marinjcc.org

DEC 15 Marin Symphony Holiday Pops Hear beloved holiday pop classics, traditional carols and favorite themes from holiday fi lms performed by the orchestra and adult and children’s choruses. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). marinsymphony.org

DEC 18–24 A Charlie Brown Christmas Live Your favorite Peanuts pals hit the stage for a live performance of A Charlie Brown Christmas. Jodi Benson (the original voice of Ariel from Disney’s animated fi lm classic The Little Mermaid ) starts off he evening with carols, sing-alongs and more. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

DEC 19–20 Marin Oratorio The group celebrates the holiday season and performs Bach’s Christmas Oratorio. College of Marin (Kent field). 415.485.9385, marinoratorio.com

DEC 24 The Brian Setzer Orchestra Christmas Rocks Tour Three time Grammy Award winner Brian Setzer and his 18-piece band come to San Francisco for their 12th annual tour featuring music from the group’s four best-selling holiday albums. The War field (SF). 415.345.0900, the war fieldtheatre.com

DEC 27 ’Til Dawn Sing Out American folk/ blues band Delta Rae will be featured at this year’s Youth in Arts event, which honors the 20th anniversary of Marin’s popular teen a

cappella ensemble. ’Til Dawn alumni will perform alongside current members during this special reunion. Great American Music Hall (SF). youthinarts.org

DEC 31 The Weight NYE Celebration

Join The Weight and Moonalice for 2015’s fi nal evening, the ideal time for psychedelic rock. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.1100, sweet watermusichall.com

GALLERIES

MARIN

Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Classes for artists. 751 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com

Art Works Downtown Small Works Exhibition

A juried exhibition showcasing artwork smaller than 18 inches, through December 31. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, artworksdowntown.org

Bubble Street Featuring genres of fantastic art, imaginary realism, neo-Victorian and steampunk. 565 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.339.0506

Claudia Chapline Gallery and Sculpture Garden Works by Claudia Chapline, Jim Garmhausen, Etta Deikman and more. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com

Desta Gallery Ongoing work. 417 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo. 415.524.8932, desta gallery.com

Voyeur III by Alan Rath at the Contemporary Jewish Museum, S.F.

di Rosa Robert Kinmont

Works by the conceptual sculptor, who explores the interdependency between humanity and nature, through January 24. 5200 Carneros Hwy, Napa. 707.226.5991, dirosaart.org

Fine Art Etc. Featuring a collection of sculptures and paintings by artists from Northern California and around the world. 686 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.1107, finearttc.com

Gallery Route One

The Wild Book Show

Featuring artist Dylan Welch, through January 17. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org

Marin Civic Center

Visionary Marin An outside venue show celebrating 88 years of Marin Society of Artists members’ works, through January. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyof artists.org

Mine Gallery Original contemporary art. 1820 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Fairfax. 415.755.4472, gallerymine.com

O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Art of the Spirit: Epiphany A juried exhibition, through December 19. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org

Petri’s Fine Arts

Featuring contemporary works in various mediums. 690 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.2626, petrisfineart.com

Robert Allen Fine Art Lands End Allegory: New Works on Canvas

and Panel New works by Jay Mercado, through January 29. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robert allenfineart.co

Robert Beck Gallery

Early California and contemporary plein air paintings. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898, beckgallery.org

Robert Green Fine Arts

Between Two Worlds Work by Charlotte Bernstrom. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfineart.com

Roberta English Art by Cheung Lee, Mayumi Oda, Li Huayi, Ju Ming and Toko Shinoda. 1615 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.331.2975, roberta english.com

Room Art Gallery

Works by both Bay Area artists and major masters, housing the largest collection of Picasso, Chagall and others in Marin County. 86 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.380.7940, roomartgallery.com

Seager Gray Gallery

James Shay: Grove Studies, through December 6. 108 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.384.8288, seagergray.com

Smith Andersen North Work by Arthur Tress, December12–January

23. 20 Greenfield Ave, San Anselmo. 415.455.9733, smith andersennorth.com

Studio 4 Art Work by local artists, classes and workshops with

Marin Civic Center (Sun & Thurs, 8-1, all year)

OAKLAND — Grand Lake (Sat, 9-2, ALL YEAR) Hayward (Sat, 9-1, ALL YEAR)

Clement st (Sun, 9-2, ALL YEAR) newark (Sun, 9-1, ALL YEAR) stonestown (Sun, 9-1, ALL YEAR)

agriculturalinstitute.org

Meet jim eldon, of fiddler’s green farm, Thursdays & Sundays at the civic center

Photo by Curtis Myers

materials included. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net

The Blissful Gallery Oils, watercolors and prints by painter Emmeline Craig. 3415 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach, 415.868.2787, emmelinecraig.com

Zener Schon Contemporary Art Contemporary works in various mediums by Eric Zener, Paige Smith, JD Wilson and more. 23 Sunnyside Ave, 415.738.8505, zener schongallery.com

SAN FRANCISCO ArtHaus New pieces. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com

Caldwell Snyder Gallery Work by David Bromley. 341 Sutter St, 415.392.2299, caldwellsnyder.com

Fouladi Projects Fall/ Winter Pop-up Shop West Coast artists and makers converge to create a holiday pop-up shop, with each festive item inspired by natural materials, through January 2. 1803 Market St, 415.621.2535, fouladi projects.com

George Lawson Gallery White Album Works by Stephen Beal, Pegan Brook, John Meyer and more, through December 19. 315 Potrero Ave, 415.703.4400, georgelawson gallery.com

In the famed Sonoma County wine country. Local hospitality meets San Francisco chic. Bakeries, bistros, tasting rooms and 5-star restaurants. Stylish boutiques, art galleries and antique shops. Picnic baskets brimming with local farmers’ market delicacies.

Taste the wine country the way Northern Californians do. And like everyone who visits, you’ll fall head over Healdsburg.

Gregory Lind Gallery

Heights Where the Light Still Lingered, Work by Sarah Bostwick. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com

Hackett-Mill Abstract Selections A group exhibition featuring the work of Howard Hodgkins, Hans Hofmann, Joan Mitchell, Manuel Neri, Brian Wall and others. 201 Post St, 415.362.3377, hackettmill.com

John Berggruen Gallery

An exhibit celebrating the gallery’s 45th anniversary. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com

Meyerovich Gallery

Grisha Bruskin: Paintings and Sculpture

Works by the artist, through December 31. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com

Pier 24 Photography

Art from the Pilara Foundation collection. Pier 24, 415.512.7424, pier24.org

Rena Bransten Projects

New works by Nobuyuki Takahashi, through January 2. 1639 Market St, 415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com

Thomas Reynolds Gallery Pieces by contemporary painters, most exploring the intersection of realism and abstraction. 2291 Pine St, 415.441.4093, thomasreynolds.com

MUSEUMS

MARIN

Bay Area Discovery Museum Healthyville Explore nutrition , fitness and the human body in this interactive exhibit, through January 10 (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org

Bolinas Museum Getting Here From There An exhibition of photographs tracing the fascinating history of traveling to the unique community of Bolinas, through January 3 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org

Marin Museum of the American Indian The First Ambassadors A look at long-forgotten Native American

history told through rare lithographs depicting courageous and distinguished tribal leaders (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com

Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Fall National Juried Exhibition: Drawing A juried exhibition, through December 6 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org

BAY AREA Asian Art Museum Looking East: How Japan Inspired Monet, Van Gogh, and Other Western Artists, through February 7 (SF). 415.581.3711, asianart.org

California Academy of Sciences Enjoy an adults-only

experience after 6 p.m. every Thursday. (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org

Conservatory of Flowers Garden Railway: 1915 Pan-Pacific The conservatory’s newest garden railway exhibition celebrates the centennial of San Francisco’s historic world’s fair, through April 10 (SF). 415.831.2090, conserva toryofflowers.org

Contemporary Jewish Museum NEAT: New Experiments in Art and Technology This unique exhibit features nine Bay Area artists, each of whom has been commissioned to make a new piece or update an older artwork that demonstrates how digital programming

is a central tool for artist creativity, through January 17 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org

de Young Jewel City: Art from San Francisco’s PanamaPacific International Exhibition The landmark exhibition at the de Young reassembles more than 200 works by major American and European artists, most of which were on display during PPIE, through January 10 (SF). 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org

Exploratorium Ongoing interactive exhibits exploring science, art and human perception (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu

Photo by Bustle & Twine

Legion of Honor

Breguet: Art and Innovation in Watchmaking, through January 10 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.org

Museum of Craft and Design Constructed Communication: Nakayama, Sinbondit, Venom In support of the museum’s Visible Transparency Project, this group exhibition features a collection of four artists who will communicate publicly through their work, through March 27 (SF). 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org

Oakland Museum of California Rituals and Remembrance The 21st annual Dia de los Muertos exhibition explores how Latin America, Filipino, Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese and other communities view death, memory and healing, through

January 3 (Oakland). 510.318.8400, museumca.org

San Francisco Botanical Garden Mesoamerican Cloud Forest Bloom Stroll through cloud forest plant communities typical from southern Mexico to Panama and throughout Central America (SF). 415.661.1316, sfb otanicalgarden.org

Sonoma Valley Museum of Art Kara Women Speak Works by fi ne art photographer, videographer and sound artist Jane Baldwin, centering on the people of Ethiopia’s Omo River Valley and Kenya’s Lake Turkana, through December 6 (Sonoma). svma.org

The Walt Disney Family Museum Disney and Dali: Architects of Imagination Works depicting the trajectory of an unlikely creative alliance,

through January 3 (SF). 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Murmur Wall Designed by Future Cities Lab, the Murmur Wall is a unique combination of sculpture, light and data collection along the wall at the main entrance to YBCA, through May 31, 2017 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org

EVENTS

THRU DEC 20 The Great Dickens Christmas Fair and Victorian Holiday Party Step back into Victoria-era London to celebrate the season in true Dickensian fashion. The lively streets are complete with holiday carolers, pleasant aromas, one-of-a-kind Christmas gifts and even Fezziwig’s dance hall. Cow Palace (SF). dickensfair.com

DEC 4 Jack London Square Tree Lighting

Take a trip to the Oakland waterfront for an annual lighting of a 55-foot Mount Shasta fi r — 5,000 white lights, 600 ornaments, a bevy of treats and a visit from Santa himself will make it a night to remember. Jack London Square (Oakland). 510.645.9292, jack londonsquare.com

DEC 5 Fantasy of Lights Union Street kicks off the holiday season as thousands of twinkling white lights decorate the Victorian houses and shops that line the popular blocks. Family fun includes a horse-drawn carriage, pictures with Santa, a toy drive and more. Union Street (SF). sresproductions.com

DEC 5–6 ICB Winter Open Studios Now in its 47th year, ICB’s annual event invites art-lovers to go inside the studios

where more than 100 painters, sculptors, jewelers, photographers and more create their work. ICB (Sausalito). icbbuilding.com

DEC 7 Weis Foundation for Children's Holiday Heroes Extravaganza Kids of all ages will have the exclusive opportunity to meet local athletes, gain rare access to the San Francisco Giants’ dugout and batting tunnels, and enjoy ballpark fare during this one-of-a-kind holiday celebration. AT&T Park (SF). 650.321.4142, holidayheroes.org

DEC 10 Graze Local This series of ranch-totown dinners rounds out Sausalito’s annual Winterfest, as Marin’s fi nest ranchers, farmers, chefs, restaurateurs and wine makers converge to create a truly interactive dining experience designed to stimulate and educate. 100 Spinnaker Dr (Sausalito). grazelocal catering.com

DEC 11 Raise the Youth This family event features food, wine, auction items and performances of highlights from this year’s productions — including Mary Poppins, Shrek, West Side Story and more — all to benefit Throckmorton Youth Performers. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, throck mortontheatre.org

DEC 12–13 Muir Beach Holiday Arts Fair Enjoy the spectacular scenery of Muir Beach while browsing through artwork and colorful crafts from more than 30 local artists hailing from Marin and throughout

the Bay Area. Returning this year are booths featuring junior artisans, as well as the seasonal creations of the holiday ornament extravaganza. Community Center (Muir Beach). muirbeachartsfair.com

DEC 12–13 Marin Indoor Antique

Market

Christmas Show Shop for unique gifts in this old-fashioned collective of more than 70 booths of antiques and collectibles. Highlights include Native American art, antique jewelry, vintage toys and more. Marin Center Exhibit Hall (San Rafael). 415.383.2252, goldengateshows.com

FILM

DEC 2 Lulu Artist and director William Kentridge puts his own spin on Alban Berg’s femme fatale who shatters lives, including her own. Presented by the Metropolitan Opera. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net

DEC 10 Hamlet National Theatre London presents its version of Hamlet, to be viewed live from the comfort of your theater seat. Enjoy a starring performance by Academy Award nominee Benedict Cumberbatch. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net

DEC 12 The Magic Flute See the groundbreaking broadcast that launched the Met’s Live in HD series — adults and children alike will enjoy Mozart's timeless fairy tale. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net

Splinters in Our Ankles at ODC Theater, S.F.

NATURE WALKS & TALKS

ONGOING First Tuesday ArtWalk

Join the Mill Valley Arts Commission each month for a stroll through town to view exhibits by local artists. Various locations (Mill Valley). cityofmillvalley.org

ONGOING Free First Wednesdays Visit the Bay Area Discovery Museum the fi rst Wednesday of every month for an outing full of exploration and fun. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, bay kidsmuseum.org

ONGOING Sunday

Hikes on Mount Tam Cap off our weekend with a three- to fivemile group hike up Mount Tamalpais. Each trek is led by a Friends of Mount Tam volunteer. Various locations (Mill Valley). 415.258.2410, friendsofmttam.org

THRU DEC 24 Berkeley Artisans Holiday Open Studios Enjoy this free, self-guided tour through 100 professional artisan workshops and galleries. Various locations (Berkeley). 510.845.2612, berkeley artisans.com

THRU JAN 3 Reindeer Rendezvous Trace the epic 3,000-mile migration of reindeer through forests and tundra to discover why they roam and how they impact their habitat. California Academy of Sciences (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org

DEC 2 Camera Basics Workshop This onesession photography

workshop will get you comfortable with the core features of your camera as you learn to make the most of automatic mode. The Image Flow (Mill Valley). 415.388.3569, theimageflo.com

DEC 5 Landmarks Holiday Art and Craft Sale This popular holiday fair nestled in a historic farm cottage is fi lled with art and crafts from local makers, with gift options ranging from jewelry to art to seasonal spices. Art and Garden Center (Tiburon). 415.847.4209, land markssociety.org

DEC 8 Jonathan Franzen The author of The Corrections and Freedom comes to San Francisco to discuss his new novel, Purity, which furthers his passion for tackling di fficult subjects and complex characters. Nourse Theater (SF). 415.392.4400, cityarts.net

DEC 12 Wreath-making Workshop Enjoy a day fi lled with hot chocolate, holiday tunes and crafting — pinecones, fresh greenery and more are provided so you can create your very own natural wreath. McNears Beach Park (San Rafael). marincountyparks.org

DEC 12 Spawn Creek Walk Tour Join trained naturalists for a creekside walk as the coho salmon begin their annual spawn. Meander through the Lagunitas Creek Watershed and learn about the ecology of the endangered native population. Various locations (Marin). 415.663.8590, spawnusa.org

SPOTLIGHT

Horsing Around

WE HAD THE CHANCE to catch up with Odysseo ’s Brennan Figari to ask how he came to be involved with the innovative traveling equestrian arts show. See performances at the White Big Top on Third Street (near AT&T Park) through December 13. cavalia.net KASIA PAWLOWSKA

How did you end up with Odysseo? I have always been involved in a lot of theater and sports and I think once I found the circus arts I realized it was a great mix of combining both the really athletic things that I liked and the more artistic aspects. A friend of mine was a rider in the creation process for Odysseo and she emailed me and said, “Hey, you know they are looking for more acrobats, are you interested?”

Have you ever worked so closely with horses before? No, growing up in Woodacre, we had a couple ranches nearby so I was used to seeing horses and being around them, but we have more than 65 horses in the show now. I don’t think anything would have prepared me for that so it has been quite a learning experience. Every day I learn something new about horses and it’s a lot of fun. They are fun to work with. They keep everything fresh and interesting. I have been really lucky to be learning more riding as well as some liberty,

which is when you are in front of the horse and you have horses behind you and you take them on various patterns and figures and ask them to do different tricks. I was originally hired to do aerial work, so obviously I am still doing that. You will see me doing a solo on the hoop and you will also see me on the horses, so it’s kind of all come to fruition.

How many shows do you perform in every year? I think on average we do about 220 per year. We spend about six to eight weeks in each city and then we spend a couple weeks moving around where everybody gets to rest, the horses especially. They get to go off to a nice little ranch and roam around like horses do. It’s great for the artists too because I get to come home and see family and friends.

Anything you’d like to add? I am super excited to be going back home. I'll be home for Christmas.

A Marin acrobat joins the circus.

CHRIS WAITS (FIGARI); FRANCOIS BERGERON (HORSES)

Dine

• STATE BIRD PROVISIONS American With a wide variety of choices, from fresh local seafood to spicy kimchi yuba to savory pancakes, not to mention a full range of poultry, this uncommon dim sum–style setup features a little bit of everything. 1529 Fillmore St, 415.795.1272, statebirdsf.com b $$ s D

CORTE MADERA

BLUE BARN GOURMET

American The fi rst Marin outpost of the S.F.-based eatery has proven very popular. The menu includes customizable salads, toasted sandwiches, soups and more, prepared with locally harvested produce and proteins. Try the buffalo milk gelato from Double 8 Dairy of West Marin. Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.1104, bluebarngourmet.com b $$ s ∞ LD º

BOCA PIZZERIA Italian

This Italian-inspired pizzeria utilizes Northern California’s bounty of seasonal ingredients and showcases local microbreweries and wine country’s boutique varietals. The menu includes large selections of appetizers to share, organic salads when available, pastas, local free-range poultry and meats, desserts and Neapolitan-style pizzas with house-made mozzarella. 1544 Redwood Hwy, 415.924.3021, bocapizzeria.com s $$ s ∞ C LD º

BRICK & BOTTLE

California Seasonal selections made with local ingredients are

the specialty here, with service also available for private parties and catered events. Enjoy signature dishes like orzo mac ’n’ cheese with smoked Gouda and petrale sole and tomato-braised short ribs. The restaurant has been voted “Best Happy Hour,” by Marin Magazine readers.

55 Tamal Vista Blvd, 415.924.3366, brickandbottle.com s $$$ s ∞ C D º

IL FORNAIO Italian

This upscale Italian restaurant franchise’s menu offers, aside from the pizzas and pastas, a variety of salads and carb-free entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com s $$ s ∞ C LD BR

LA MAISON DE LA REINE Vietnamese

Enjoy family-style Vietnamese dishes at this lovely restaurant, located in the Town Center. The crunchy cabbage chicken salad with peanuts, fresh spring rolls and combinations of pho are popular picks. 346 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.0288, lamaison delareine.com b $$ s ∞ C LD

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS AND GOOD FOOD IN THE BAY AREA EDITED BY MIMI TOWLE

Red Trout with Mandarin orange and Hazelnut-Garum Brown Butter

Thursday, December 3rd

142 Throckmorton Theatre Mill Valley, California

Advance Tickets available at: The Box Office

142 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley www.throckmortontheatre.org

General Admission: $25 (doors 7:30 p.m.) (includes a CD of the new album)

VIP Tickets: $100 (doors 6: 45 p.m.) (includes food and wine reception courtesy of Heidi Krahling of Insalatas, reserved seating and a CD of the new album).

100% of event proceeds go to ExtraFood.org

For more information, please visit: www.mi chelleschmitt.com

Announcing a holiday benefit concert for ExtraFood.org presented by BMW of San Francisco with her band: Ricky Fataar, George Marinelli, Marc Levine, Anton Patzner, Lewis Patzner, Graham Patzner & Michael Spriggs

MARIN JOE’S Italian

This Marin mainstay has been around for over 50 years. Choose from a menu of soups, salads, seafood, mesquite-grilled or sautéed meats and a plethora of pasta options. For a fun addition to your dining experience, order the Caesar salad — the server will prepare the dressing at your table. Not looking for a meal? Enjoy a drink and hear local musicians at the well-known piano bar. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marin joesrestaurant.com s $$ s C LD

PIG IN A PICKLE

American Fresh local ingredients and the highest-quality brisket, pork, ribs and chicken comprise the menu of this Town Center eatery. Sauces are crafted to represent the best American barbecue regions, from Memphis to South Carolina. House-made pickles, buns and sausages will

keep you coming back. 341 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.891.3265, piginapicklebbq.com b $$$ s ∞ BLD

THE COUNTER California/American Customers can build their own salads and burgers with fresh ingredients. Burgers are made with allnatural Angus beef, turkey, chicken or bison. Gluten-free options and a vegan veggie burger are available. The restaurant also has patio seating, an airy kick-back vibe, and a popular happy hour (give the adult milkshake a try!). 201 Corte Madera Town Ctr 415.924.7000, thecounterburger.com s $$ s ∞ LD º

THREE BIRDS WINE

BAR California This oneroom bar and wine shop features more than 20 options by the glass and a selection of bottles to take home. Enjoy an array of cheese and

charcuterie in addition to other bar snacks in the comfortable lounge. 207 Corte Madera Ave, 415.927.9466, three birdswinebar.com b $$ ∞ º

FAIRFAX

123 BOLINAS California

Created by four friends wanting to showcase seasonal fare in a relaxing, intimate environment, this cozy, one-room eatery offers locally brewed beer, small-production wines and seasonal food along with the view of Bolinas Park through the floorto-ceiling windows. 123 Bolinas St, 415.488.5123, 123bolinas.com b $$ s ∞ D º

BAREFOOT CAFE

American Chef Tony Senehi prepares fresh Californian dishes made with local, organic ingredients, from sustainable sources. A popular brunch location, neighbors and tourists

• STATION HOUSE CAFE American Fresh local homegrown foods are showcased for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stop in on weekends (5 p.m. on Sundays) for live music and wine, beer and cocktails (Point Reyes Station). 11180 Highway 1, 415.663.1515, stationhousecafe.com s $$ s ∞ C BLD BR º

come to this quaint restaurant in the heart of Fairfax for everything from their eggs benedict to panna cotta dessert. 1900 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.460.2160, barefootcafe.com b $$ s BLD

FRADELIZIO’S Italian

Fradelizio’s blends Northern Italian cuisine with Californiainspired healthy fare using the freshest ingredients possible. 35 Broadway Blvd, 415.459.1618, fradelizios.com b $$$ s LD BR

GRILLY’S Mexican

If you’re looking for a quick, fresh meal, Grilly’s is an easy and delicious stop. Pick up a couple burritos and the much-loved chicken taco salad and you have a lunch or dinner to please the whole family. 1 Bolinas Ave, 415.457.6171, grillys.com $ s ∞ C BLD

IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American

Choose from an extensive beer list, and enjoy your selection with an ale-braised barbecue pork sandwich, prawn tacos or the house-ground chicken bacon cheeseburger. 765 Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com b $$ s ∞ C LD º

SORELLA CAFFE

Italian Run by sisters Sonia and Soyara, Sorella, which means “sister” in Italian, serves fresh Italian food with a northern in fluence. Customer favorites include the cioppino, butternut squash ravioli and Pollo alla Sorella. Another highlight is the giant wheel of Grana Padana cheese. And if that isn’t enough, stop by for live music every second and fourth Thursday of the month, as well as accordion music every Friday and a piano, bass and drums combo every

Saturday. 107 Bolinas Rd, 415.258.4520, sorellacaffe.co b $$$ s D

LARKSPUR

AMALFI RISTORANTE

Italian Antonio Volpicelli, of Don Antonio in Tiburon, has taken over the old Fabrizio space and fi lled it with more traditional Italian cuisine. The menu offers an assortment of classic dishes like orgonzola gnocchi, veal parmesan, carbonara and an extensive wine list. Guests are welcome to enjoy any one of these items on the spacious outdoor patio. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332, amalfi ristorantelarkspur.com b $$ ∞ LD

EL HUARACHE LOCO

Mexican The menu has gained quite a following for the authentic Mexico City dishes. From mini huaraches (fi lled corn masa cakes) to the foot-long huarache with two salsas, crema, queso fresco and two toppings of your choice, you’re sure to get a true taste of a homemade Mexican meal. Marin Country Mart, 1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.1403, huaracheloco.com b $ s ∞ BLD

EMPORIO RULLI

Italian Renowned for its Northern Italian specialties and treats, the Larkspur location (there are three others) is a favored spot for lunch as well as coffee and a sweet treat. 464 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7478, rulli.com $$ s ∞ BL

FARM HOUSE LOCAL California This downtown Larkspur gem

Organic Salad Greens with SlowRoasted Pork Belly and Summer Fruit

is sure to please with simple, healthy food in a warm, cozy atmosphere — both inside and outside on the covered patio. The seasonal menu follows what is fresh and local with dishes such a s flu ff y omelets stu ffed with local meats, cheeses and vegetables. 25 Ward St, 415.891.8577, farmhouselocal.com b $$ s ∞ BL

FARMSHOP California

Located in the Marin Country Mart since 2013, Farmshop Marin has quickly become a top spot here in the county. Indoor and outdoor seating available.

Marin Country Mart, 2233 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.755.6700, farmshopca.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR

LEFT BANK

RESTAURANT French

Known for award-winning French cuisine and a lively brasserie ambience, this corner spot on Magnolia Avenue rates high with locals. Those with a small appetite (or budget) can opt for happy hour appetizers (4 to 6:30 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close, Monday to Friday), most priced under $6. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR

MARIN BREWING CO.

American Grab a cold beer made on site and pair it wit h fi sh ’n’ chips — in this case fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce — or another item from the all-American menu.

Marin Country Mart, 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com b $$ s ∞ LD º

PICCO California

Popular since its inception, Picco has a seasonally driven menu featuring items such as risotto (made every half hour) that keep patrons coming back. Pizzeria Picco next door is famous for its wood-fi red pizzas, wine selection and softserve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com s $$$ s ∞ C D

MILL VALLEY

BALBOA CAFE MILL

VALLEY California The San Francisco institution has become a place to see and be seen in Mill Valley, especially after 142 Throckmorton comedy nights. Menu includes Niman fl atiron steak, braised beef brisket risotto and classic burgers. 38 Miller Ave, 415.381.7321, balboacafe.com s $$$ ∞ LD BR º

BOO KOO Asian

Authentic Asian street food for $10 or less. The restaurant offers options for every eater—vegans, glutenfrees, vegetarians and carnivores. Popular items include chicken pho, vegan summer rolls, pad thai and five-spice pork satay, all made with organic, locally sourced veggies and proteins. 25 Miller Ave, 415.888.8303, eatbookoo.com b $ s ∞ LD

BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE

American Oysters

Bingo, baby back ribs and Chili-Lime “Brick” Chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s.

The warm, dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com s $$ C LD BR

BUNGALOW 44

American One of Mill Valley’s neighborhood hot spots, featuring contemporary California comfort food, signature cocktails, fi ne wine, and one-dollar oysters from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. every day. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com s $$$ s ∞ C D

CAFE DEL SOUL

California Healthy options become addicting ones at this Tam Valley eatery. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh Hummus Yummus wrap, you’ll have to return to sample the Chipotle Sunrise Rice Bowl. A casual lunch spot and great for takeout, Cafe del Soul now offers a range of quinoa options.

247 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net $ s ∞ LD

EL PASEO American

The Marin chophouse continues to impress as the years pass — the restaurant itself has been around since 1947. Its menu reflects the elegant setting, with offerings like roasted bone marrow, crispy duck wings and the El Paseo short rib. 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com b $$ ∞ C D

FRANTOIO RISTORANTE Italian

This 6,000-squarefoot eatery is centered around the in-house olive press, which produces a special blend popular with locals. For special occasions and private parties, reserve the olive-press room. The popular weekday happy hour starts at 4:30 p.m. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com s $$$ ∞ C LD º

GRILLY’S Mexican

Grilly’s is an easy and delicious stop. Pick up a couple burritos and the much-loved chicken taco salad and you have a lunch or dinner to please the whole family. 493 Miller Ave, 415.381.3278, grillys.com b $ s ∞ C BLD BR

HARMONY Chinese

Enjoy a lighter take on Chinese at this restaurant, nestled in the Strawberry Village. The barbecue pork bun is fi lled with housemade roasted meat in a savory sauce, and fresh mussels are accented with red chili and Thai basil. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea. Be sure to check out the weekday lunch special for an excellent deal. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmony restaurantgroup.com b $$ s LD

INDIA PALACE Indian

Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite with the takeout crowd;

eating on site is also a treat. 707 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.3350, india palacemillvalley.com b $$ s LD

JOE’S TACO LOUNGE Mexican Joe’s serves up fi sh tacos, burritos and enchiladas as well as more unusual items like Mexican pizza, tofu crab tostadas. Colorful interior and quick service make this a fun, easy stop. If there are too many unsupervised kids for a peaceful meal, takeout is easy too. Grab a selection of hot sauce bottles from the wall and fi nd your perfect match. 382 Miller Ave, 415.383. 8164, joestacolounge.com b $$ s ∞ BLD

PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian The staff rides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Get a table by the window or on the outdoor deck for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Peruse the impressive selection of Italian wines to accompany your rustic seasonal meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com s $$ s ∞ C LD BR

MOLINA California Chef/proprietor Todd Shoberg’s cooking focuses on wood-fi red, California coastal cuisine. The daily rotating menu features items cooked in the famed Alan Scott oven and selected from Marin County’s farmers’ markets, including shell fi sh, oysters, rabbit, pig, quail and cattle. Both the menu and the music change nightly. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, molinarestaurant.com b $$$ ∞ D BR

PIAZZA D’ANGELO

Italian It’s always a party at this longstanding hot spot. A great place to meet up with friends for a fresh plate of pasta, or make some new friends at the bar. The menu is known for creative, seasonal dishes like the stu ffed veal loin with wild mushrooms and house-made mozzarella. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com s $$ s ∞ C LD BR º

PIZZA ANTICA

Italian This Italianinspired restaurant in Strawberry Village offers much more than impeccably prepared thin-crust pizzas. The seasonal dishes are created with local ingredients and include chopped salads, housemade pastas, and meat, fi sh and fowl entrees, such as the Tuscan fried chicken and roasted pork chop. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.383.0600, pizzaantica.com b $$ s LD BR º

PRABH INDIAN KITCHEN Indian Owned and operated by the Singh family, this restaurant is dedicated to serving healthy, organic and sustainable food, including gluten-free and vegan options. Dishes include chicken pakora, vegetable biryani and basil garlic nan. Try the thali menu (offered at lunch), a selection of several Indian dishes served at once. 24 Sunnyside Ave, 415.384.824, prabhindiankitchen.com b $$ s ∞ LD

ROBATA GRILL AND SUSHI Japanese Robata translates as “by the fi reside”; fittingly, food here can be cooked on an open fi re and served

in appetizer-size portions to pass around the table. Or simply order your own sushi or entree from the menu. 591 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.8400, robatagrill.com b $$ s LD

SHORELINE COFFEE

SHOP American Tucked away in a parking lot at Tam Junction, this coffee shop is a funky diner with a smalltown feel. Check out the mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast fare. 221 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.9085 b $$ s ∞ BL BR

SOL FOOD Puerto Rican

This Marin favorite has opened in Mill Valley, still serving up everyone’s favorite Puerto Rican cuisine. The line can get long, but the food is well worth it. 401 Miller Ave, 415.380.1986, solfoodrestaurant.com $$ s ∞ BLD

SWEETWATER

MUSIC HALL CAFE

American Located at the entrance of Sweetwater Music Hall, the cafe is dedicated to the FLOSS philosophy: Fresh, Local, Organic, Seasonal and Sustainable. O ffering breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, the menu includes brown-butter scrambled eggs on avocado toast, crispy chicken sliders with gingery cabbage slaw and vegan Thai spring rolls with sweet-and-sour sauce. 19 Corte Madera Ave, 415.388.3850, sweet watermusichall.com s $$ s ∞ BLD BR º

TAMALPIE Italian Owner Karen Goldberg designed this restaurant with a large group seating area, indoor

Caesar Salad at Marin Joe’s, Corte Madera

and outdoor fi replaces, and a small casual bar.

The food is Italian home cooking with the daily modern inspiration of locally sourced seasonal ingredients found in the salads, house-made pastas and crispy Neapolitan style pizza, with a selection of beer and wine to match. 477 Miller Ave, 415.388.7437, tamalpiepizza.com s $$ s ∞ C LD

THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444, theplela.com s $$ s ∞ LD

URBAN REMEDY Juice

With a selection of juices, snacks and bowls including plenty of gluten-free, grain-free, and low-glycemic-index options, this is a popular stop. Raw desserts round things out. Try the namesake salad or give the cashew milk with cinnamon and vanilla a shot to see what Urban Remedy is all about. 15 E Blithedale Ave, 415.383.5300, urbanremedy.com $$ ∞ BLD

VASCO Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience in this one-room trattoria. Try one of the pasta dishes or thincrust wood-fi red pizzas. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343, vasco millvalley.com s $$ s D

NOVATO

BOCA TAVERN

American Bring a date or celebrate a special event at this classic steak house, which features wholesome American fare. Favorites include the mac ’n’cheese croquettes, hanger steak and duck-fat fries. 340 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.0901, bocasteak.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD º

HILLTOP 1892 California

In a historic country estate in Novato with sweeping views, enjoy classic favorites with a California fl air. There’s a private banquet room for special events. 850 Lamont Ave, 415.893.1892, hilltop1892.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º

MARVIN’S RESTAURANT

American Voted “Best Breakfast in Novato,” this spot is known for serving up generous portions of Americanstyle breakfast and lunch fare at a great value. The corned beef hash, benedicts and superb service attract a consistent crowd all year round. 1112 Grant Ave, 415.892.4482 $ s ∞

RUSTIC BAKERY

California Organic pastries, breads, salads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including daily seasonal specials. Try the Marin Melt — Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Point Reyes Toma cheeses grilled on honey whole wheat, served with dressed baby greens and crisp apple slices. 1407 Grant Ave, 415.878.4952, rusticbakery.com b $$ s ∞ BLD BR

KATHLEEN DUGHI JEWELER

HAND-FABRICATED FINE JEWELRY EXQUISITE CUSTOM DESIGNS

11 B ernard S treet M ill V alley 415.383.0462 www . kathleendughi . coM

once around

an arts & crafts store

www.oncearound.com

Out & About / DINE

THE SPEAKEASY

American There’s nothing like the comfort of a solid burger and beer when you’re kicking back and watching the game, and the Speakeasy provides you with just that. In addition to the 10 beers on tap, you can go beyond traditional pub grub with treats like a deconstructed salmon salad. 504 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.7793, thespeakeasynovato.com b º

TOAST American Toast Novato features outdoor dining and contemporary architecture by Stanley Saitowitz. The spacious restaurant is ideal for large parties and families looking for generous portions of comfort food. 5800 Nave Dr, 415.382.1144, toastnovato.com b $$ s BLD

SAN ANSELMO

COMFORTS CAFE

American Established in 1986, Comforts has a cozy sit-down patio and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. A large take-out section offers fresh bakery items, seasonal salads, soups, sandwiches and even entrees for dinner at home. Besides the famous and popular Chinese chicken salad, other winners are the stu ffed pecan-crusted French toast , fl avorful scrambles, Chicken Okasan ( nicknamed “Crack Chicken” by fans) and wonton soup. 335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com b $$ s ∞ BL BR

FARM BURGER

American This burger chain is known for 100% grassfed meats and something that’s

not nearly as commonplace – alcoholic milkshakes. So if you want to put a little tang in your dessert, try one of their golden state cider floats or a mission hard root beer. Other fares include a pastured pig banh mi, a superfood salad, as well as a lil farmers menu for kids. 882 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.785.4802, farmburger.net b $$ s ∞ LD

L’APPART RESTO

French French specialties, local favorites and a $35 three- course prix fi xe menu are served up in an energetic yet sophisticated environment. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.256.9884, lappartresto.com b $$$ s ∞ LD BR

MH BREAD AND BUTTER California This one-stop shop offers everything from coffee and pastries to artisan bread and braised meats. High-quality ingredients and a comfortable atmosphere make MH worth checking out. 101 San Anselmo Ave, 415.755.4575, mhbreadandbutter.com $$ s ∞ BL BR

SAN RAFAEL

FENIX California An intimate live-music venue in the heart of downtown San Rafael, Fenix features globally inspired California cuisine with a Southern French twist. Dishes like fried green tomatoes or 72-hour sous-vide short ribs, accompanied by a glass from the extensive wine list, defi ne the experience. 919 Fourth St, 415.813.5600, fenixlive.com s $$$ s C BLD BR º

RANGE CAFE American

With floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the grand Peacock Gap lawns, the Range Cafe is the perfect place for comforting American classics with an elegant twist. This inviting lunchtime cafe with its ice-cold lemonade and refreshing chardonnays makes a great dinner spot once the sun sets. 333 Biscayne Dr, 415.454.6450, rangecafe.net s $$ s ∞ C BLD º

SAN

great prices. 816 Fourth St, 415.721.0392, sushitodaifor.net b $$ s LD

TERRAPIN CROSSROADS

RAFAEL JOE’S

Italian A Marin institution famous for sophisticated yet casual Italian fare since 1947.

The dining room, with a friendly atmosphere and seating for 240, is great for large parties, and the roast sirloin of beef and Fettuccine Joe’s are sure to please. 931 Fourth St, 415.456.2425, sanrafaeljoe.com s $$ s LD º

SOL FOOD Puerto Rican

Fast becoming a Marin legend, Sol Food whips up traditional Puerto Rican dishes just like the ones owners Sol Hernandez grew up eating. Favorites include the bistec sandwich, mofongo and fried plantains, but anything tastes good with a dash of the signature hot sauce, also for sale by the bottle (as is the lemon-garlic salad dressing). 901 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765, sol foodrestaurant.com $$ s ∞ BLD

SUSHI TO DAI FOR

Japanese Snagging a seat in this popular Fourth Street sushi spot can be a challenge, but patience is rewarded with tasty and fresh sashimi, unique sushi rolls and

American This waterfront restaurant and music venue presents fresh food and local talent. The menu includes salads, savory dishes and wood-fi red pizzas plus a wide selection of beers, wines and cocktails. Come for the food, stay for the music. 100 Yacht Club Dr, 415.524.2773, terrapin crossroads.net s $$ ∞ C D BR º

URBAN

REMEDY Juice

With delicious juices, snacks and bowls including plenty of gluten-free, grain-free, and low-glycemic-index choices, this is a popular spot. Raw desserts round things out. Try the namesake salad or give the cashew milk with cinnamon and vanilla a shot to see what Urban Remedy is all about. 1904 Fourth St, 415.786.8011, urbanremedy.com $$ ∞ BLD

VIN ANTICO American Vin Antico, “where passion meets the plate,” serves seasonal marketinspired cuisine like stone-oven-baked fl atbreads, handmade pastas and organic salads, all innovatively prepared. The kitchen is open to the dining room and there’s a full bar with artisan cocktails. 881 Fourth St, 415.721.0600, vinantico.com s $$ s C LD º

SAUSALITO

AVATAR’S Indian If you’re on the hunt for innovative Indian fare, head to Avatar’s. Sip

Warm Wishes and Happy Holidays

masala chiar sweetened with brown sugar in this casual, one-room restaurant, ideal for a quick lunch or dinner. 2656 Bridgeway, 415.332.8083, enjoyavatars.com b $$ s LD

BAR BOCCE American

Food just tastes better on a bayside patio with fi re pits and a bocce ball court. Order one of the sourdough bread pizzas and a glass of wine and you’ll see why this casual eatery, overseen by Robert Price of Buckeye and Bungalow 44, has become a local favorite. 1250 Bridgeway, 415.331.0555, barbocce.com s $$ s ∞ LD

F3/FAST FOOD

FRANCAIS French

Owned and operated by the owners of Le Garage, F3 serves brunch, lunch and dinner featuring “Frenchi fied” American comfort food. A rotating menu includes items like the Luxe

burger (Diestel turkey, brie, lettuce and a fried egg topped with tru ffle aioli). Enjoy with a side of Brussels sprout chips or pommes dauphines (tater tots). 39 Caledonia St, 415.887.9047, eatf3.com s $$ s ∞ LD BR

FENG NIAN Chinese

This spacious popular hangout has served up wonton soup, pot stickers and daily specials for nearly two decades. For an indulgent treat, order the Szechwan crispy calamari, honeyglazed walnut prawn or lemon chicken. Staying in? Feng Nian delivery available. 2650 Bridgeway, 415.331.5300, fengnian.com b $$ s LD

FISH. Seafood The ultimate place for freshly caught fare. Order the fi sh tacos, ceviche and a bottle of wine and take in the bay views on the open-air deck. Casual; bring cash (lots of it!). 350 Harbor Dr, 415.331.3474,

• VALENTI & CO. Italian

This bright and cozy space is the ideal environment for authentic Italian dishes made with local ingredients. A seat at the chef’s table gives a prime view of the open kitchen. 337 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.7800, valentico.com b $$$ D

napavalleyburger company.com s $$ s ∞ L

OSTERIA DIVINO Tuscan Osteria Divino offers authentic florentine cuisine inspired by the fi nest local, organic, seasonal produce, meat and fi sh available, along with an extensive artisan pasta selection. Live music Tue-Sun. 37 Caledonia Street 415.331.9355, osteriadivino.com b $$ s ∞ C BLD BR º

415.332.1492, seafoodpeddler.com s $$$ s ∞ LD BR º

331fish.com b $$$ s ∞ LD

KITTI’S PLACE Thai/ California This homestyle family restaurant has been in Sausalito 20 years and features favorites like lettuce cups, soft spring rolls and weekly specials. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390, kittisplace.com b $$ s ∞ LD

LE GARAGE French Escape the tourist crush for an indulgent Sausalito brunch right on the water. The atmosphere is animated with light French music (à la Amélie), and the much-adored croquemonsieur is under $10. Indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistro sausalito.com b $$$ s ∞ BLD BR

LIGHTHOUSE American

A great spot to grab a classic breakfast — the fruit pancakes, omelets and Danish-in fluenced dishes will make you a

return customer. This is a small but popular space, so arrive early or be prepared for a wait. 1311 Bridgeway, 415.331.3034, light house-restaurants.com $$ s BL

MURRAY CIRCLE American Cavallo Point’s acclaimed restaurant features local seasonal fare by executive chef Justin Everett, with pairings from an extensive wine list and tempting desserts. Stop by Farley Bar for cocktails with a view. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD BR

NAPA VALLEY BURGER COMPANY American Incorporating local, all-natural and organic produce and meats, this burger joint serves up gourmet patties, fries, root beer floats and more. With outdoor and indoor tables, the space can accommodate up to 100 people. 670 Bridgeway, 415.332.1454,

POGGIO Italian Executive chef Benjamin Balesteri creates Northern Italian fare using fresh and local ingredients. Private dining rooms above the restaurant can accommodate larger parties (10 to 150 guests). 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD

SAYLOR’S RESTAURANT AND BAR California/Mexican Chef/owner Sean Saylor uses fresh local ingredients and seafood to create a distinctively Cabo combination of California and Mexican cuisine. Serving more than 200 varieties of tequilas that are even better when enjoyed in the private Cabo Wabo room named for (and approved) by Mill Valley’s own Tequila master, Sammy Hagar. 2009 Bridgeway, 415.332.1512, saylors restaurantandbar.com s $$ s ∞ C LD º

SEAFOOD PEDDLER RESTAURANT AND FISH MARKET Seafood The fi sh is bought daily from loca l fi sherman and recipes are adjusted to incorporate the freshest catch. 303 Johnson St,

SUSHI RAN Japanese Sample small plates just big enough to share before enjoying some of the best sushi the Bay Area has to offer; the prices don’t deter the herd of enthusiasts who line up nightly to partake. Just stopping by? The wine, cocktail and sake lists keep even the pickiest bar fly satisfied. Reservations are required in the main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com s $$ ∞ LD

TASTE OF THE HIMALAYAS Himalayan Popular for lunch and dinner, enjoy authentic food from a faraway region. 2633 Bridgeway, 415.331.1335, sausalitotasteofthe himalayas.com b $$ s LD

TOMMY’S WOK

Chinese Fresh ingredients, free-range chicken and traditional dishes ful fi ll the Chinese food craving with a nice atmosphere for dining in and great takeout for a night at home. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.332.5818, tommyswok.com b $$ s ∞ LD

THE TRIDENT Seafood Set in a turn-of-thecentury building constructed for the San Francisco Yacht Club, this waterfront restaurant is a shoe-in for date night. The restaurant, a famous 1970s hangout, is now known for supporting local farmers, fi sherman and organic food producers. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, the tridentsausalito.com s $$$ s ∞ LD BR º

Roasted Mt. Lassen Trout

TIBURON

CAFÉ RENZO Sicilian

Café Renzo is a new European cafe on Tiburon’s historic Ark Row featuring Sicilian street food, frozen yogurt, pastries, sandwiches and soup and salads. A relaxing place not just for dining but for socializing, it’s named after executive chef Renzo Azzarello and is the “baby brother” of Luna Blu restaurant up the street. 110 Main St, 415.937.5913 b $ s ∞ BLD º

CAPRICE California Book the private party room for large groups or just relax in this romantic dinner spot. Take advantage of the restaurant’s wellpriced three-course dinners for less than $25, and don’t miss prime rib Mondays. 2000 Paradise Dr, 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com s $$$ D

DON ANTONIO

TRATTORIA Italian

Located in Tiburon’s Ark Row, this trattoria serves authentic Italian cuisine in a quaint setting. Traditional selections include chicken piccata, organic roasted rack of lamb and house-made pesto. 114 Main St, 415.435.0400, donantoniotrattoria.com b $$ D

GUAYMAS

RESTAURANT Mexican Situated right next to the Tiburon ferry terminal on the waterfront, it’s got touch-it-you’re-soclose city views and outdoor seating, making it a great place to bring visitors on a warm summer night. Happy

hour is 4 to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday. 5 Main St, 415.435.6300, guaymasrestaurant.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD º

LUNA BLU Sicilian Executive chef Renzo Azzarello and his wife, Crystal, serve English afternoon tea (a special service by reservation only). The menu changes daily, incorporating seasonal, fresh and organic produce. The restaurant has partnered with the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch, so all the seafood is sustainable. In 2014 diners voted Luna Blu one of the Top 100 Neighborhood Gem restaurants in America. 35 Main St, 415.789. 5844 s $$$ s ∞ LD

MILANO Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this familyowned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta and friendly service. Favorites like the cheesy garlic bread and pesto keep customers coming back. 1 Blackfield Dr, 415.388.9100 s $$ s ∞ LD

NEW MORNING CAFE

American Sit outside or in at this casual cafe. On a sunny morning, the place is fi lled with locals enjoying the sun and extensive breakfast menu; lunch is served as well. 1696 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4315 s ∞ BL

SALT & PEPPER

American This sunfi lled one-room restaurant, featuring hardwood floors and blue-checkered tablecloths, is an area favorite. Popular items include scallops, ribeye steak, a beef burger and traditional crab

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cakes with jalapeño dipping sauce. 38 Main St, 415.435.3594 b s ∞ LD

SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE

American Sam’s deck is a popular spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Sample a seasonal menu served all day, every day. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º

SERVINO RISTORANTE

Italian Executive Chef Massimo Covello highlights organic ingredients in an array of rustic Italian dishes, including house-made pastas, wood oven pizzas, and seasonal specialties. Located on the bay in Tiburon, Servino also prides itself on itsextensive sustainable seafood program. Savor la dolce vita on the waterfront patio. 9 Main St,

415.435.2676, servino.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º

TIBURON TAVERN California The atmosphere here is enhanced by two outdoor patios, two indoor fi replaces and fresh flowers. Happy hour is 4 to 6:30 p.m. every day. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, lodgeattiburon.com s $$ s ∞ C BLD BR º

WEST MARIN

NICK’S COVE American Nick’s Cove offers a coastal escape on Tomales Bay, serving famous barbecued local oysters, Dungeness crab mac ’n’ cheese and cocktails using homegrown ingredients. Large windows in the 130-seat restaurant provide picturesque views of Tomales Bay and Hog Island. (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR

OSTERIA STELLINA

California Whether it’s to cap off a ay of hiking or celebrate a romantic anniversary, Osteria Stellina suits any occasion. The menu is Italian-inspired and features local, organic ingredients. If you’re up for something unusual, try the goat shoulder, a hit with both tourists and locals (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, osteriastellina.com b $$ s LD

PARKSIDE CAFE

American Perfect for a sit-down alfresco meal or for grabbing a burger to enjoy on the beach. Beautiful patio garden seating, ocean views, and private wood-fi red dinners make this café a relaxing retreat. If you’re on the go, check out the new market and bakery. Choose from an array of organic, locally grown produce, artisan meats and wild seafood (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272,

parksidecafe.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD

PINE CONE DINER

American You ca n fi nd this ultimate neighborhood diner just off he main road. Vintage china and homemade curtains complement the eclectic but homey menu featuring local fare. Tourists and residents love this place (Point Reyes Station). 60 Fourth St, 415.663.1536, pineconediner.com b s ∞ BL

RANCHO NICASIO

American Known for live music and an extensive menu featuring everything from Dungeness crab cakes to garlic-rosemary lamb medallions, Rancho Nicasio is open seven days a week. Be sure to stop in for happy hour, 4 to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday. 1 Old Rancheria (Nicasio) Rd, 415.662.2219, ranchonicasio.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º

SAND DOLLAR

American Originally built from three barges in Tiburon in 1921, the Sand Dollar Restaurant wa s floated to Stinson that same year. Enjoy live music along with barbecued local oysters and New England clam chowder. The sunny deck is great in the afternoon (Stinson). 3458 Shoreline Hwy, 415.868.0434, stinson beachrestaurant.com s $$ s ∞ LD

kale Caesar and the stu ffed quail, then come back and work your way through the entire menu — most items are $20 or less (Olema). 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.663.1034, sirandstar.com b $$ s C D

THE LUNCH BOX American Swing by this modern day momand-pop take-out deli for such healthy beach bites as deli salads and custom sandwiches cooked to order, as well as sweets, treats and snacks. The Lunch Box also has a Thursday and Friday night taqueria menu featuring hometown favorites by chef Gabino Chavez (Stinson). 15 Calle del Mar, Ste 2, 415.868.8884 – catering, 415.367.5305, lunchboxmarin.com $ s ∞ LD

SAN FRANCISCO

AQ RESTAURANT & BAR California AQ takes seasonal to a new level, not only adapting the menu but also transforming the decor of the entire venue to match the weather outside. 1085 Mission St, 415.341.9000, aq-sf.com s $$$ ∞ D

mint or the bittersweetness of salad topped with barberries, bulgur and pomegranate, all in a setting with handsome wood tables and an open kitchen. In the evening, the dining room can readily be reserved for small private parties of up to 24 on request. The views of the Bay Bridge punctuate an unmistakably San Francisco setting. 1 Ferry Building, 415.399.1155, bouletteslarder.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD BR

BOXING ROOM Cajun

The Southern comfort of Louisiana, updated to fit the polished elegance of the city. Indulge in authentic Cajunstyle eats and fresh California seafood. 399 Grove St, 415.430.6590, boxingroom.com s $$$ s LD BR º

BUN MEE Vietnamese

A fun and casual lunch spot that put s a fl avorful twist on classic Vietnamese. Sit back in this playful space with a salad, bowl or sandwich and enjoy the stylish San Francisco vibes. 2015 Fillmore St, 415.800.7696, bunmee.com b $$ s ∞ LD º

CAPO’S CHICAGO

SIR

& STAR AT THE OLEMA California

The historic inn has reopened as a roadhouse-style restaurant featuring rustic decor and a delicious yet a ffordable menu. Try the house-made bread and honey butter, the

BENU Asian/French Plan on a formal and sophisticated evening. The compositions on the tasting menu provide a full experience of this restaurant’s unique Asian fusion cuisine. 22 Hawthorne St, 415.685.4860, benusf.com b $$$ C D

BOULI BAR American/ Mediterranean Head to Boulettes Larder’s new bar and dining room for the savor y fl avors of spicy lamb, feta and

Italian If you’re craving classic Chicago-style Italian and a venue to match, the endless pizza choices and fl avorful pasta and meat selections here will more than satisfy your appetite and take you back in time to the mobster days of the 1920s. 641 Vallejo St, 415.986.8998, sfcapos.com s $$$ s ∞ D º

CLIFF HOUSE California

Great food, beautiful view and lots of history — what else could

Green Tea Tiramisu at Robata Grill and Sushi, Mill Valley

you want? An awardwinning wine list? They have that too. Not only does Cliff ouse boast a popular Sunday champagne brunch, it also focuses on local, organic, sustainable ingredients and seafood on its everyday menu. 1090 Point Lobos, 415.386.3330, cliffhouse.com s $$ s BLD

ESPETUS CHURRASCARIA

Brazilian This steakhouse boasts a tasting menu of 14 meat courses grilled in the traditional Brazilian method. Patrons control the pace of the pri x fi xe experience with colored signal cards. 1686 Market St, 415.552.8792, espetus.com s $$$ s C LD

HAKKASAN Chinese

The rich-fl avored slow-braised beef and the crispy duck salad are popular at this San Francisco destination. Private dining rooms are offered: the Jade Room complete with lazy Susan and the larger Dragon Room for cocktail parties or dinners. 1 Kearny St, 415.829.8148, hakkasan.com s $$$ C LD

MICHAEL MINA Japanese/French

Michael Mina has clearly mastered the fi ne line between award-winning art and Alaskan halibut. Each brilliantly crafted dish gives diners a delicate blend of fl avors that add up to a distinctive, luxurious dining experience. 252 California St, 415.397.9222, michaelmina.net s $$$ LD

NAMU GAJI Asian/ California A clean and natural design in a streamlined setting, where housemade shiitake mushroom dumplings and succulent grilled beef tongue are among the many options to discover. 499 Dolores St, 415.431.6268, namusf.com s $$ s LD BR º

NOPA California The easy California menu shows off oasted chicken and pork chops, with a bouquet of appetizers to set the mood. Although this S.F. destination is busy almost every night (a good sign), the wait at the legendary bar is half the fun. 560 Divisadero St, 415.864.8643, nopasf.com s D BR

PERRY’S American Perry’s, for over 45 years an institution on Union Street in San Francisco, is known for its classic American food, its warm personable service and its bustling bar. Signature dishes include traditional Cobb salad, prime steaks and, of course, the renowned hamburger. Perry’s also serves a weekend brunch. Hotel Griffon, 155 Steuart St, 415.495.6500, perryssf.com s $$ s ∞ C D º

RICE PAPER SCISSORS

Vietnamese At this brick-and-mortar Mission District spot with a pop-up sibling, try the popular grilled steak bahn mi on one of the bright red stools and stay warm with a pot of jasmine tea. 1710 Mission St, 415.878.6657, ricepaperscissors.com $$ s ∞ LD

Sparkling Treats

Certified Gemologist

American Gem Society

Gluten-Free Patisserie

WHETHER IT’S A pastry to counteract the cold, cupcakes in the office kitchen or the thematic cookies scattered around your friend’s December get-together, the holidays are synonymous with sweet, seasonal treats. And while desserts may always be tempting, they need not be overly indulgent, especially with Flour Craft Bakery in town. Flour Craft was originally conceptualized in 2010 as a farmers’ market mainstay, where gluten-intolerant chef Heather Hardcastle, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley, sold her signature granola along with a selection of gluten-free treats. After a few successful years, a storefront seemed a logical next step. With the help of businessminded partner Rick Perko, San Anselmo’s gluten-free patisserie opened in 2013; it now offers mu ffi ns and morning pastries, custom cakes, savory breakfast and lunch options and much more — all without those pesky plant proteins. For the holidays, Hardcastle recommends the company’s seasonal scones, which toe the line between sweet and savory, work well at any holiday meal and make a welcome hostess gift. “We sell several seasona l flavors of scones at the bakery and they are a customer (and sta ff ) favorite,” Hardcastle says. “Buttery, flaky, light — they’re everything a proper scone should be and trust me, no one will suspect they’re gluten-free.” flourcraftbakery.com CALIN VAN PARIS

Gluten-Free Currant, Orange and Rosemary Scones

YIELDS 16

Ingredients

3 cups brown rice flour

¾ cup sugar

1 ½ tablespoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon xanthan gum

6 ounces chilled butter, cubed

1 tablespoon orange zest

2 eggs

12 ounces cream (plus 2 tablespoons for brushing) ¼ cup currants, soaked and drained

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped 2 tablespoons candied orange peel, diced (optional) 2 tablespoons turbinado sugar

To Prepare

1 Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 2 In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix dry ingredients until just combined. Add butter and orange zest and mix until the butter pieces are about the size of peas. Add eggs and mix on low speed until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add cream and mix until dough just starts to come together. Add currants, rosemary and candied orange peel (if using), and mix until just combined. 3 Divide dough into two equal-size rounds and wrap in plastic. Chill dough for at least 20 minutes. 4 When chilled, turn out dough onto work surface dusted with brown rice flour. 5 Pat each round into a circle, about 8-inch diameter by ½-inch thick. 6 Cut the rounds into eight triangles by first cutting each round in half, then cutting halves into quarters, then cutting each quarter in half again. 7 Arrange scones on a baking sheet with 2 inches of space between. Brush with reserved 2 tablespoons heavy cream and sprinkle with sanding sugar. 8 Bake for 20–25 minutes until lightly golden on edges and middle is just set. 9 Cool to room temperature before serving.

Heather Hardcastle of Flour Craft Bakery shares a favorite recipe for seasonal scones.

Out & About / DINE

RICH TABLE California A

bright, relaxed environment for savoring fresh ingredients grown only feet from the kitchen, creative and quirky cocktails and California wine. 199 Gough St, 415.355.9085, richtablesf.com s $$$ D

SPAGHETTI BROS.

American BIX and Fog City alums Erik Lowe and Aaron Toensing serve inventive American standards like St. Louis–style toasted raviolis and green chile-apple pie with a cheddar cheese crust. The chefs explore regional culinary traditions and translate them into a Northern Californian lexicon as evidenced by their playful menu and a Negroni-centered bar. 3213 Scott St, 415.939.2726, spaghettibrossf.com s $$$ C D

STATE BIRD PROVISIONS American

With a wide variety of choices, from fresh local seafood to spicy kimchi yuba to savory pancakes, not to mention a full range of poultry, this uncommon dim sum–style setup features a little bit of everything. 1529 Fillmore St,

KEY TO SYMBOLS

Full bar

Wine and beer

415.795.1272, statebirdsf.com b $$ s D

THE PROGRESS

Californian The second restaurant venture from State Bird Provisions’ chef proprietors Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski brings the same kind of innovation as thei r fi rst. Popular dishes include shaved cauli flowerherbs and pig fries as well as a “treasure chest” of fermented sausage. The beverage list is also worth a look as general manager and wine director Jason Alexander has curated an expansive wine list and a number of craft cocktails. 1525 Fillmore St, 415.673.1294, theprogress-sf.com s $$$ LD

TOWN HALL American

The exposed brick and warm, unconventional lighting turn Town Hall’s large space into an intimate yet elegant environment. With a more-than-adequate wine list and savory American classics like pork tenderloin with honey grits, a visit here should be on everyone’s list. 342 Howard St, 415.908.3900, townhallsf.com s $$$ ∞ C LD º

Inexpensive ($10 or less per entree)

Moderate (up to $20)

Expensive ($20 and over)

Kid-friendly Outdoor seating

Private party room

Seating: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Brunch

hour

For even more local restaurant listings, vistit us online at marinmagazine.com

On the Scene

SNAPSHOTS FROM SPECIAL EVENTS IN MARIN AND SAN FRANCISCO EDITED BY DANIEL JEWETT

MOANALANI JEFFREY (S.F. SYMPHONY)

Donna Seagar, Mark Fishkin, Suzanne Gray and Vera Meislin

• BEYOND THE BOOK BASH Stars of literary arts and music celebrated local food and drink October 2 at Seager Gray Gallery and helped to raise more than $100,000 in support of Mill Valley Library programs and services.

• WINE, WOMEN AND SONG Guests helped raise funds to benefit Celebrate Life and Zero Breast Cancer at this October 17 event at Osher Marin JCC.

Michael Pritchard, Denise Martin and Susan Zelinsky

• S.F. SYMPHONY OPENING GALA Guests enjoyed a reception in Davies Symphony Hall, a concert and an afterparty, all in celebration of the opening of the 2015–16 season.

Ken McNeely, Inder Dhillon, Jack Calhoun, Daru Kawalkowski and Alton Irby

Gavin Newsom and John Pritzker

Willie Brown and Charlotte and George Shultz

• WHISTLESTOCK It was a rocking evening full of classic live performances from 1960s music pioneers September 27 as part of Whistlestop’s second annual benefit concert held at Rancho Nicasio.

• RISE AND SHINE BREAKFAST

More than 200 people attended the Boys and Girls Clubs of Marin and Petaluma’s fifth annual fundraiser at the Mill Valley Community Center September 22 and helped raise $90,000 for the organization.

Ian Ramberg and Marion and Rachel Pozivenec

Joanne and Fred Greene and Will Durst

William Bradley Sr., Mike Murphy, Leslie Murphy, Bill Walton, Ken Degraca and Dick Denezza

Russ Colombo and Amy Gutierrez

GET OUT AND PLAY DAY Healthy living was celebrated October 3 at Town Center Corte Madera with a host of free family-friendly events.

DEBRA TARRANT (FORT ROSS FUN-RAISER); MO DELONG (GET OUT AND PLAY DAY)

•

Jennifer Silvera and Stephanie Phelan

Dalton Copeland, Ashley Milbridge, Spencer Cohen, Maggie Scott, Brian Edwards and Linda Morello

Nelson Zhad and Ravi Patel

• FORT ROSS FUN-RAISER A night of fun, fairies, fortunes and treats was enjoyed by all October 8 at the Bay Area Discovery Museum as funds were raised to benefit Fort Ross State Historic Park.

• COOL THE EARTH The Marin-based nonprofit joined with Atlanta-based Captain Planet for a September 19 fundraiser in Kentfield that will help both organizations continue to educate kids about climate change.

Carey Condy, Susan and Jared Huffman, Susan McGuigan and Donna Fellows

• TO CELEBRATE LIFE BREAST CANCER FOUNDATION

The

sors,

Kristina and Greg Hoffman, Robert Beadle and Maria Pitcairn

Katie Abbott, Agne Christensen and Kelsey McNeil

• DENIM AND DIAMONDS Marin Charitable held its annual fundraiser October 17 at the Pacheco Ranch Winery. The organization grants funds to more than 50 organizations supporting youth.

• SEEK FINE ART APP LAUNCH PARTY The first locationbased art app was introduced at a September 17 party at the Room Art Gallery in Mill Valley.

• REACH FOR THE STARS Guests enjoyed food, wine and acrobatic performances September 12 in Kentfield in support of Sunny Hills Services.

organization celebrated 20 years with survivors, spon-

donors and volunteers at a special September 26 event at the Marin Civic Center.

Sokhom Mao, Lannie Medina, Mike McGuire and Dana King

BB Bernheim, Kathryn Servino, Janice Still and Anne Butler TO SEE MORE EVENT PHOTOS VISIT MARINMAGAZINE.COM/HOTTICKET

DINE out

Deals on Meals

Enjoy local restaurants and save 30 percent on meals. Check out the participating restaurants in our “Deals on Meals” section and experience big savings. Spend only $35 for a dining certificate worth $50. Simply go to marinmagazine.com/dineout to purchase a dining certificate from a restaurant in this section and we will mail it to you. Try a new restaurant or purchase a certificate for an old favorite. A perfect gift for any occasion. Limited supply each month.

DEALS ON MEALS

Dine local — save big time!

The name Baan Thai (which means house, or home) is intended to suggest a sense of home cooking. Presenting a homestyle Thai cuisine to an appreciative Marin County community, we are now proud to offer gluten-free menu options (just ask your server).

Baan Thai Cuisine 726 San Anselmo Ave. 415.457.9470 San Anselmo, CA baanthaimarin.com

one

Cliff House 1090 Point Lobos 415.386.3330 San Francisco, CA cliffhouse.com

Consistently voted “Best of Marin” , Comforts offers fine city and home-style food. Our menus change regularly to reflect what is fresh and in season, using only the best quality ingredients. The holiday season is fast approaching! Comforts can provide you with an easy and delicious feast for your holiday gatherings. Contact our catering department for details.

Comforts

335 San Anselmo Ave 415.454.9840 San Anselmo, CA comfortscafe.com

Serving Marin for over 25 years with delicious Szechwan, Mandarin cuisine. Always fresh food and friendly service, nice decor, and easy parking. Also offer delivery to Southern Marin, and private parties for any occasion.

Feng Nian 2650 Bridgeway 415.331.5300 Sausalito, CA fengnian.com

The historic Cliff House offers awesome views from every angle and

of nature’s best shows every day. Dine in the casual Bistro Restaurant or the elegant Sutro’s at the Cliff House. Sunday Brunch in the Terrace Room is a Bay Area tradition with free-flowing champagne and a delicious buffet.

PHOTO: LEE RUE, INTELITE-DESIGN.COM

L’Appart Resto serves a French-inspired seasonal menu. We also offer a $35 prix fixe option daily and live music on the patio every Thursday. L’Appart is available for private events. Open for lunch Friday, Saturday and Sunday, and dinner 7 nights a week.

L’Appart Resto 636 San Anselmo Ave 415.256.9884 San Anselmo, CA lappartresto.com

Serving Lunch, Dinner and Weekend Breakfast. RangeCafe Bar and Grill, located on the course at Peacock Gap Golf Club, offers a delicious array of dining options to satisfy the whole family. All items are freshly prepared and served in a relaxed and inviting environment.

RangeCafe Bar and Grill 333 Biscayne Drive 415.454.6450 San Rafael, CA rangecafe.net bar and grill

Visit the Seafood Peddler for the freshest seafood Marin has to offer, shipped in daily from the east coast to West! Enjoy the view indoors or enjoy our beautiful flower lined patio. Come enjoy our daily Happy Hour (including weekends) from 4:00 to 7:00PM.

Seafood Peddler 303 Johnson Street 415.332.1492 Sausalito, CA seafoodpeddler.com

Perched on the Sausalito waterfront, the renowned Trident honors its original founding philosophy, showcasing quality organic and sustainablyprodued local fare. Whether seated indoors or on one of our two decks, spectacular bay views make dining here a feast for all the senses.

The Trident - Best Deck Dining 558 Bridgeway 415.331.3232 Sausalito, CA thetrident.net

ATTENTION ARTISTS:

Enter the Tenth Annual Cover Art Contest.

WINNERS:

A winner from one of the following categories: painting, photography and illustration.

EXPOSURE:

The winner will be featured on the cover of the May 2016 issue.

ENTER NOW AT: MARINMAGAZINE.COM/GETCOVERED/

Connect with the local art scene. For sales and art placement services, find us at Fort Mason. sfmoma.org/artists-gallery

Steve Lomprey Vernacular 1, 2015

Photo: courtesy the artist

Curt Humphrey Jeff Smith

Nolan Misitano

Karen Burrous

Erin Whalen

Photo: 2002, McNally-Karlan Photography

BY LAURA HILGERS • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

WHEN SUKEY FORBES began searching for a home at the beginning of 2015, she wanted something “that would have personality and make a statement.” But she wanted the statement, she says, “to be more about the people who lived in it.”

She hit the mark with this Mill Valley home, which she shares with her two teenage children and which teems with personality, from the race car trophies in her son’s room to the Andy Warhol paintings of Annie Oakley and John Wayne in the kitchen to the carved wooden desk in the living room, a piece given to her great-great-uncle William Cameron Forbes by former Chinese leader Chiang Kai-shek.

The desk is also a statement about Forbes herself: she sat at it while writing much of her book about the death of her middle daughter, The Angel in My Pocket: A Story of Love, Loss, and Life After Death (see “How We Grieve” in our November issue). When she moved

her family from Boston to Marin so her son, a formula car challenge driver, could race at Sonoma Raceway, fi nding a new place to write was a priority, even if she didn’t articulate it.

What she really wanted was a home where people could gather — so an open, flexible floor plan was a must — and to live close to the city, which she visits often. “But when she walked into this house,” says realtor Laura Reinertsen, “one of the first things she said was, ‘This is where I’m going to write my next book.’ ”

And what better place to write than in this kitchen? “There was an office downstairs, but I realized there was no way I was going to use it when the kitchen has such magnificent views,” says Forbes. She renovated the kitchen and installed a mini-office, including file drawers and a printer hidden behind kitchen cabinets. While her children are at school, she sits at the large, Calcutta marble island and writes.

When she entertains, which she does often, she dishes up Whole Foods meals (Forbes does not cook) for family and friends in an eclectic

setting that is decidedly “Sukey-style”, including a towering elk horn chandelier in the family room, hip artificial turf on the terrace off he living room and an 18th-century Flemish tapestry remnant hanging on a dining room wall.

Such variety may seem out of place in so contemporary a home, but the house holds it well. Which is good. Because there’s a lot of personality within. m

THE DETAILS

WHERE SHE PURCHASED The Homestead Valley neighborhood of Mill Valley WHAT SHE BOUGHT A contemporary four-bedroom home

LISTING AGENT Margo Schein, Sotheby’s International Realty SELLING AGENTS Laura Reinertsen and Kristin Sennett, Paci fic Union and Christie’s Great Estates

STATS Price per square foot for homes in the neighborhood: $804

Opposite page: The elk horn chandelier in the family room; Sukey Forbes. This page, clockwise from top: Vintage theater lights in the living room; a Buddha vase; the master bedroom; the master bath; Forbes’ great-great-uncle’s desk; the kitchen, with Warhol painting.

For Sale

Yard, moving, estate, garage — all sales where you can pick up great deals on things somebody no longer wants.

If you’re having one, email a photo of yourself standing by your sale sign to letters@marinmagazine.com; we’ll choose one or more submitted photos to run in the next issue.

PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

Christmas Tree Hill

Marin’s diverse geography includes everything from urban area to seashore, freeways to mountains. This month we look at Corte Madera’s Christmas Tree Hill, named for the zigzagging pattern of streetlights covering the prominent hill. DEBRA TARRANT

WHERE THEY LIVE

HOMES 250 unit dwellings

WALKABILITY SCORE 55 out of 100 (somewhat walkable, some errands can be accomplished on foot)

HIGHEST-PRICE HOME SALE WITHIN THE LAST SIX MONTHS $2,700,000

LOWEST-PRICE HOME SALE WITHIN THE LAST SIX MONTHS $780,000

SCHOOL DISTRICT Larkspur–Corte

Madera School District: Neil Cummins Elementary School and The Cove School (K–5); Hall Middle School (6–8); Redwood High School (9–12)

NEAREST SHOPPING CENTER

The open-air shopping centers Town Center at Corte Madera and The Village at Corte Madera are nearby. Even more convenient is the Old Corte Madera Town Square that surrounds Piccolo Pavilion.

We visit regularly and love hiking the steps to the beautiful views at the top.

Rosie Langlie

Hill dwellers value the seclusion, community spirit, views, hiking trails and winding streets and the many stairways up and down.

My wife and I love both hiking to the top of Christmas Tree Hill and sharing a great meal at the bottom.

Mitch Anders

Marin Home / NEIGHBORHOODS

Madeline Schaider

Home prices provided by Alan Blumenthal and Madeline Schaider of Madeline Schaider Real Estate.

RESIDENTS SAY ...

WE’RE LOCAL, WE’RE GLOBAL

We’re Luxury

Since our beginning as a tiny Bay Area startup, we have grown to the #1 independent real estate brokerage in California The 5th largest residential firm in the United States for the fourth consecutive year, with over $10.8 billion in closed sales volume in 2014.* We reach over 70 million potential buyers and investors in 30 countries. Through our partnership with Luxury Portfolio, we represent more $1M+ homes than any luxury network, including Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Coldwell Banker Previews.

Custom estate located in prestigious George Ranch community with views of the Sonoma Valley and Bay. This retreat includes 4BR/4BA, a gourmet kitchen, travertine entry, hardwood floors, dining room, large great room, formal living area, three fire places and more! Additional, game room, bonus room for fitness/ office use, and a temperature controlled wine cellar.

offered at $3,395,000

(707) 695-0889

Sunny, resort-style pool and gardens, San Francisco Bay & Mount Tamalpais views. Bright, major modern remodel with master suite on main level + kitchen, formal living, dining & family room. Upstairs has three bedrooms (one ideal for use for rec/office/studio). Separate office/kitchenette and full bath plus 2-car garage.

offered at $3,150,000

deborah SolvaSon (415) 519-3555

GeorGe CaGwin (415) 272-5113

Brand new remodel taken down to the studs & brought back with remarkable quality & detail. An exquisite home with an open floor plan that seamlessly transitions to the sprawling yard complete with hot tub, pool, & Mt. Tam views.

Luxurious Master Suite & bath, three additional bedrooms, two full baths, chef’s kitchen, dining room, & living room on main level. Bed & bath downstairs with separate entrance could be used as a home office, au pair quarters, or in-law suite.

offered at $2,325,000

Milano (415) 246-6868

Spacious 3800±Sq.Ft. custom home on approximately .75 of an acre with serene views of the renowned rolling hills of Marin! 5BR/4BA with wood floors, high ceilings, 3 fireplaces, and a large chef’s kitchen. Master on main level with huge walk-in closet and a travertine bath with dual sinks, separate tub & shower. Backyard, backing to open land, features a view deck, patio, large flat lawn, stonework, a majestic oak, and land to develop much more. Excellent Dixie School District. 3-car garage.

offered at $2,195,000

deborah SolvaSon (415) 519-3555

Kendall SKolniK

Wine Country Resort Living at its Best!

Custom Lucas Valley View Home

Bay & Water Views from Mill Valley Estate

MiChael

Exquisite Turn-Key Remodel in Greenbrae

Beautiful and desirable lower unit in Point Tiburon Bayside. This rarely available two bedroom and two bath home provides a relaxing retreat near downtown Tiburon. Special features include stainless steel appliances, wine cabinet, an eat-in-kitchen, wood burning fireplace, three landscaped patios, private one car garage and outside space. Very close to restaurants, shops, movie theatre, and ferry dock. The complex features a pool, spa, and beautifully landscaped grounds.

offered at $1,995,000

C Jay Key (415) 699-5747

Exquisitely remodeled and expanded Tudor Style home in desirable Ross. 4BR/3.5BA home with over 2600 sq.ft. of living space. Sited on a substantial corner lot and park-like back yard with sparkling pool and pool-side bar. Open floor plan features a new kitchen with Italian Verona stove/ oven, stainless steel appliances, granite counters and tile floors. Inviting living room with new floors and wood burning fireplace adjacent to the formal dining area. Within the coveted Ross School District, yet just steps to the Downtown shops and easy transportation access. www.90SFD.com

offered at $1,625,000

Matt thoMas (415) 342-7293

Welcome to a bit of country heaven with views of mountains and serenity with three parcels that total 29± acres that are presently planted with hay crops and previously had Pear orchards. Adorable guest house and three bedroom, one bath farmhouse, two ag wells and one domestic well complete this offering.

offered at $975,000

Brenda

(707) 953-3444

This beautiful home is situated on over .34 acre lot and will impress the most discerning buyers. The manicured yard is home to heritage oak trees, vegetable gardens, and several picnic areas. It’s been thoughtfully designed and professionally landscaped. Chef’s kitchen, formal living & dining rooms and updated throughout. 4BR/2.5BA. Award winning Pleasant Valley & Sinaloa Schools.

offered at $949,000

Cornell (415) 215-6364

Stunning Views of San Francisco Skyline & Bay

Pleasant Valley Schools & Move-in Ready

Remodeled Tudor in Coveted Ross

alarCon

29± Acres of Heaven in Kelseyville

Colleen

Built in 1937, this phenomenal Hunting Lodge will take your breath away. Oozing with character and spirits of a bygone era, it encapsulates old Mill Valley at its finest.

Gorgeous 4BR (+ office) 2.5BA main home on a private lot in Blithedale Canyon, including a separate media room & guest unit with full BA. Greeted with the dramatic great room featuring 20-ft cathedral ceilings, oversized fireplace, formal dining area, you then find the remodeled chef’s eat-in kitchen, office and secluded deck. Upstairs features the master suite w/ remodeled BA & private view deck. The lower level has 3BR & 1.5 BA and a sunny deck. Beautiful light, privacy, storage and built-ins throughout complete this masterpiece.

This home is truly a rare gem in Blithedale Canyon, one of the most sought after neighborhoods in Mill Valley. Easy access to the best Mill Valley has to offer, including downtown and the highly acclaimed Mill Valley public schools.

Visit www.65MargueriteAvenue.com for more information.

©2015 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principals of the Fair Housing Act. If your property is currently represented by a real estate broker, this is not an attempt to solicit your listing.

ERINN MILLAR SALES MANAGER

CHRIS BACKER

STEPHANIE CONNER

JEAN LUDWICK

JULIE KENNEDY

GEORGE CROWE

ROBERT DANA

CRAIG BURNETT ERIKA SOLIS FONG

CHRIS DENIKE

JIM OLMSTEAD

JENN PFEIFFER

BEVERLY SHWERT

STEPHEN PRINGLE

KRISTY REDPATH

NATHALIE KEMP

ANDREW ROTH

PAULA STETLER

NICK SVENSON

NICK SARIBALIS

JULIE SEGURA

GREG ULIN

SARA MILLER SCOTT GREGORY

DAVID TUCKER

RICK STERN

CAROLYN SVENSON

MARK MACHADO

DAVID O’BRIEN

STEVE USSERY

I needed a place to stop and smell the roses.

431 MARION AVENUE

VALLEY

Villa in Seaside Paradise

Nestled in the gentle sway of Mount Tamalpais is one of the most pristine compounds in all of Stinson Beach.

Golden

Parklands.

A

1 Hotaling Ct., Kentfield (the heart of Del Mesa)

Offered at $5,995,000

Magnificent Mt. Tam vistas, elegant design, stunning lighting, intimate gathering areas blend perfectly in this dramatic home built in 2003. Ross schools. 6 bedrooms/4.5 baths.

The chief concern amongst today’s retirees is having enough money to live comfortably.

A Home Equity Conversion Mortgage may be the answer you’ve been looking for: Available to eligible homeowners 62 or older

EXCLUSIVE BELVEDERE LAGOON

222 San Rafael Ave., Belvedere

Offered at $3,600,000 (Not on MLS)

Single Level Living. Striking architectural gem, original mid-century modern. Large patio in front; decks overlooking lagoon in rear. Dock for water sports. 3 bedrooms/2 baths.

REALITY BEGINS AS A DREAM FOUND AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

COLDWELLBANKERHOMES.COM

Greenbrae | 415.461.3000, 415.461.2020

Larkspur | 415.927.3002

Mill Valley | 415.384.0667, 415.388.5060 Novato | 415.897.3000

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San Anselmo | 415.721.1005

San Rafael | 415.456.3000

Tiburon | 415.435.1000

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©2015 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. Coldwell Banker®, Previews® and Previews International® are registered trademarks licensed to Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Owned by a Subsidiary of NRT LLC. All rights reserved. This information was supplied by Seller and/or other sources. Broker believes this information to be correct but has not verified this information and assumes no legal responsibility for its accuracy. Buyers should investigate these issues to their own satisfaction. Real estate agents affiliated with Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage are independent contractor sales associates and are not employees of Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC, Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage or NRT LLC. CalBRE License #01908304.

This stunning modern contemporary home is located in one of Tiburon’s premier areas. Recently completely remodeled and expanded, the home features spectacular unobstructed views of the water, Golden Gate Bridge and Mt. Tam. Approximately 4,553 square feet, including 6 bedrooms and 6.5 baths—all bedrooms

include private baths with beautiful finishes. Expansive tall windows and high ceilings provide incredible natural light throughout. Spacious open floor plan highlights the outdoor entertainment area showcasing the world class view. Fabulous home for entertaining. 6ViaParaiso.com O ered at $6,125,000

Country & Coastal Estates

West Marin is my niche market. I know it inside out. Coastal, agricultural, rural, and residential. I am dedicated to my business, now in its 29th exciting year, marketing country and seaside homes, land, and ranches. I o er connections throughout the Bay Area and beyond.

B.G. Bates, Realtor values West Marin properties 415.706.1026 bg @bgbates.com bgbates.com

Mary Jo Barnett 415.847.7269 maryjo.barnett@sothebysrealty.com

160 Porto Marino, Tiburon

Happy

What Deborah’s clients have to say: “When deciding to sell my home in Sausalito from my current home in Los Angeles, I had to choose a realtor who I could not meet in person… I could not recommend her more highly!”

“Deborah stuck with us and ultimately helped us land a wonderful home below list …due to her keen instincts, deep local knowledge, and negotiation acumen.”

“Deborah was a rock star for us...She was working on our behalf fi nancially, and not focused on maximizing her commission.”

“She is an elegant and caring person and a skillful negotiator… a font of wisdom with uncommon generosity with what she knows. Our recommendation is unconditional.”

Ross Valley

Ross Valley Living— Small town charm and world class sophistication

I have lived in Kentfield for over 20 years. Built three homes for my family here. Each day, the robust culture of this community impresses me. The dedication to the quality schools and our children, the embrace of the county at large with dynamic College of Marin and Marin General Hospital... our reverence for nature and this unsurpassed think tank for innovators. The food, the film, the fitness, and the pleasure of generous neighbors.

Whether you are buying or selling, let me guide you in establishing the worth, the cost and the value of your property or purchase. With over 30 years of representing sellers and buyers, and uncompromising attention to detail, I have the experience to deliver the highest level of skill and expertise. Call me for a consult—there truly is no place like home.

Depot Life

THIS IS DOWNTOWN

tracks at right are for the Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods Railway, which transported tourists eightand-a-half miles to the top of Mount Tamalpais on what became known as “the World’s Crookedest Railway.”

Early in the 20th century, this Mill Valley spot hosted both steam and electric-powered trains.

BY JIM WOOD

Mill Valley looking up Miller Avenue toward Throckmorton Avenue around the year 1910. Doesn’t it look familiar? In the photo’s center is the Mill Valley train depot; now the Depot Bookstore and Cafe occupies that location. The tracks mid-photo belong to the Northwestern Paci fic Railroad — note the “third rail,” which carried the 600-volt direct current that powered the cars running between Mill Valley and Sausalito (killing many a wandering canine). The

The MT&MWR’s steam-powered locomotive would push its cars up the hill to avoid breakaways, as well as to keep smoke and soot from raining down on passengers. The Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods Railway lasted until 1930; the Northwestern Paci fic Railroad ceased its electrical train operations out of Mill Valley on September 30, 1940. m

Note the ‘third rail,’ which carried the 600-volt direct current that powered the cars running between Mill Valley and Sausalito.

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