June 2021 48° North by 48° North

34 KENAI PENINSULA

38 W HAT'S IN A FISH?

JUNE 2021

30 S AIL TO SURF ADVENTURES

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JUNE 2021

FEATURES 30 Sail to Surf

One water-borne passion enables a unique approach to another. By Karl Krüger

34 Kenai Peninsula Discovered

48º NORTH

By Andy Cross

38 Tales of the Northwest Passage: What’s in a Fish? Connection and generosity in the remote village of Tuktoyaktuk. By Josh Wheeler

COLUMNS 20 Tech Talk with SeaBits

A look at the function and value of satellite communicators. By Steve Mitchell

22 Lessons Learned Cruising

Many lessons have been taught by power cruising friends. By Behan and Jamie Gifford

24 Diesel Deep Dive

Engine sending smoke signals? Interpreting smoke and its causes. By Meredith Anderson

26 My Boat: Swan 391 OxoMoxo

This classic racer-cruiser has provided happiness and healing.

RACING 42 Race to the Straits

Even with a different course, this perennial favorite delivers.

44 Fluky and Fun — SYC Vashon Island Race A pleasant circumnavigation in the Tri Island Series.

45 East Sound Spring Regatta

Great racing in a great venue in some glorious liquid sunshine.

ON THE COVER: The Cross family’s Grand Soleil 39, Yahtzee, swings gently on the hook in protected Taz Basin, Alaska — one of the numerous unimaginably beautiful spots they discovered when exploring the Kenai Peninsula (page 34). Photo by Andy Cross.

Background photo courtesy of Andy Cross.

CONTENTS

Adventure and solitude in this stunning Alaskan playground.

JUNE 2021

Editor ADVENTUROUS SPIRIT

Volume XL, Number 11, June 2021

An important through-line connecting the feature articles in this issue is a bold spirit of adventure. One way or another, each of these stories involves choices and actions that would make some of my friends and family shake their heads in disbelief and perhaps utter, “Not in a million years,” under their breath. Personally, this stuff lights my “I want to do that… I NEED to do that.” fire, and I imagine it does the same for many of you. Some of it is well within reach. Some of it — an enormous stretch. All of it highlights opportunities that simply don’t exist if you’re not deep in the boat world of the Pacific Northwest; and it reinforces the intrigue and complexity and wonder of our waters and shorelines that could keep one's explorations of the Salish Sea, Inside Passage, and Alaska fresh for one hundred lifetimes. Something else that struck me as I spent time with these articles was just how matter-of-fact each of the writers is about what they’re doing. That’s part of the beauty of adventure. I’ve written before of how sailors adapt to strenuous conditions — like when dinghy or sportboat sailors quickly become comfortable putting a spinnaker up in 30 knots of breeze after only a few days sailing in the Gorge. The same thing happens with adventurers. When you are steeped and practiced in the culture of adventure, you can take bigger and bigger bites of the adventure apple without it seeming crazy. It’s much easier to understand that you can go further, dream bigger, to try new things when you’ve recently had a reinforcing reminder that pushing boundaries is not only something you can survive, but something that offers immeasurable rewards. It is, of course, not without difficulty. None of these authors would say as much. Yes, the challenge is a part of the equation, but never seems to be the lasting memory or message. This fits pretty neatly into the notion of Type 2 Fun. Karl Krüger doesn’t suggest that anchoring at or near surf breaks is easy or comfortable or something everyone should do — let alone jumping in from your boat or dinghy to actually go ride the waves. But that doesn’t mean that the average Joe can’t build up to that kind of experience and seamanship… maybe even surfing skills, too. Each time you try it, it will feel a little more accessible and a little less extreme. I’m sure Andy Cross wouldn’t say that every cruiser is ready to make the jump to the desolate and breathtaking Kenai Peninsula — some 450 miles beyond the typical cruising grounds that most already-adventurous PNW boaters think of when they consider an Alaskan voyage. On the other hand, with the Cross family as a beacon, the solitude and grandeur and wildness of the Kenai Peninsula is, in fact, within reach, literally and figuratively. Josh Wheeler’s story — in which he gives us a window into a repair and provisioning stop in Tuktoyaktuk along the Northwest Passage — reveals that one must venture distantly to have an encounter and connection with an individual like the generous Tuk local named Bruce. To transit a waterway with fewer than 350 crossings in recorded history is adventure enough. Yet, once you’re in the midst of such an effort, each day’s escapades are balanced with ever-building experience and strengthening interconnectedness with the people and the water wilderness that surround you. Surely, however you get on the water impresses and surprises your non-boater pals with aspects of novelty, adventure, and challenge. You are to them as these adventurous writers are to me. So, don’t be afraid to explore your limits as you discover our waters. And I encourage you to share the stories. You never know whose fire you might ignite. I’ll see you on the water,

(206) 789-7350. info@48north.com www.48north.com

Publisher Northwest Maritime Center Managing Editor Joe Cline joe@48north.com Editor Andy Cross andy@48north.com Designer Jacqie Callahan jacqie@nwmaritime.org Advertising Sales Kachele Yelaca kachele@48north.com Advertising Sales: Katherine Kjaer katherine@48north.com Classifieds classads48@48north.com Photographer Jan Anderson 48° North is published as a project of the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery. Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628 48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best, but submissions via mail or delivered in person are still most welcome! We are not responsible for unsolicited materials. Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor.

SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscription Options for 2021! $39/Year For The Magazine $75/Year For Premium Subscription (perks!) Check www.48north.com/subscribe for details. Prices may vary for international or first class.

Proud members:

Joe Cline Managing Editor, 48° North 48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

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Letters

10 All the Power You Need

Other Things Found on Blakely Rock

Hi Joe, I enjoyed Elsie Hulsizer’s article about cruising to Blakely Rock at low tide to explore tide pools and appreciate the vibrant wildlife. I’ve seen some unusual things on the rock myself, like an amphibious car spotted during one NW Harvest Race. Sue Weiss Response to Jake Beattie’s “Glorious Nothing” Article About Hood Canal from the May 2021 Issue Hello 48° North!

Model Shown Beta 38

LOVED the article in May about cruising Hood Canal. Having lived here since the 1960s and seen the changes, I laughed hard at the witty pen of Jake Beattie. Great writing and accurate review. I related to everything from the characterization of the general store in Seabeck, the desolation of its marina, to the exciting adventure of trying to “hike” along highway 101.

Engineered to be Serviced Easily!

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Thanks for all the chuckles, Tom Brooks

Pacific Northwest Dealer Network

Dear Joe,

Emerald Marine Anacortes, WA 360-293-4161 www.emeraldmarine.com

I just read Jake Beattie’s article “Glorious Nothing” in the May issue. I loved it! I would enjoy more of his writing, if you are inclined. I also am pleased that you will have regular articles on diesel engines. My father, Ed von Wolffersdorff, wrote the Racing Rules column in 48° North for roughly 20 years. I always enjoy your magazine!

Oregon Marine Industries Portland, OR 503-702-0123 info@betamarineoregon.com

Best, David von Wolffersdorff

Access Marine Seattle, WA 206-819-2439 info@betamarineengines.com www.betamarineengines.com

Social Media Response: Jake Beattie is a great writer. The only reason I want to shell out 5 - 10 grand to do the R2AK is so that Jake will write what will probably turn into my obituary. Shannon Sue Morris

Sea Marine Port Townsend, WA 360-385-4000 info@betamarinepnw.com www.betamarinepnw.com

Love your writing style and enjoyed the article. But, please don’t “poach” moorage at our State Marine Parks. An annual moorage pass is inexpensive and convenient and allows you complete access to all marine park docks and buoys without the need to poach. Thanks. Dale Blackburn

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JUNE 2021

Get a GEICO quote for your boat and, in just 15 minutes, you’ll know how much you could be saving. If you like what you hear, you can buy your policy right on the spot. Then let us do the rest while you enjoy your free time with peace of mind. geico.com/boat | 1-800-865-4846

Some discounts, coverages, payment plans, and features are not available in all states, in all GEICO companies, or in all situations. Boat and PWC coverages are underwritten by GEICO Marine Insurance Company. In the state of CA, program provided through Boat Association Insurance Services, license #0H87086. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, DC 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway 2021 GEICO 20_206641 4 8Inc.º subsidiary. N O R T©H JUNE 2021 11

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low tides >>

News & Events Return of the Rally (kind of...) 48° NORTH CRUISING RALLY WITH ULLMAN SAILS AUGUST 1-7, 2021 We’re going, whether you join us or not! (But seriously, join us...) It’s FREE — this one time only. Don’t know whether you’ve heard, but it’s been hard to plan things over the last year. Especially groupy travely things. So we didn’t. Until now! 48° North and Ullman Sails are going cruising in the San Juans in early August, and we’d love for you to join us. Past (and future) rallies had more structure, and thus expense for everyone involved. This will be a casual affair, but we want to see you in the islands doing what we all live for. What to expect: • Think of this as big group buddy boating. • No sponsored meals or parties. • Join the fun for a night or the whole week. • We'll stay Covid conscious — stay tuned for details. • Bring a lot of chain and rode, we like to anchor deep! • Itinerary specifics at 48north.com. • Rally anchorages will avoid the busiest spots (hopefully). • The beauty of summer in the San Juan Islands awaits. • All your friends are doing it, it's FREE, and you're invited. • Register/RSVP with joe@48north.com.  www.48north.com/cruising-rally

low tides >>

So Much Racing

WA360 RACE

SALISH 200

RACE WEEK PACIFIC NORTHWEST

BEGINS JUNE 7, 2021 It’s COVID conscious, logistically light, and demands all the skill, tenacity and patience you can muster! A seemingly simple race, WA360 brings racers from Port Townsend to Port Townsend — as the race website declares, completing a loop that runs “counterclockwise along the edges of COVID-allowable travel.” Waypoints of Olympia, Goat Island in Skagit Bay (and a choice of Deception Pass OR Swinomish Slough), and buoys in Bellingham and Point Roberts — the course is anything but simple. Registration is closed, so if you’re not racing, welcome to tracker junkie nation. Follow along in awe and respect (and occasional schadenfreude). In addition to the awesome coverage coming from the race team itself, 48° North Editor Andy Cross is racing, and will be submitting reports posted at 48north.com.  www.nwmaritime.org/wa360

BEGINS JUNE 18, 2021 The Salish 200 is a 204-mile course that includes traveling around the San Juan Islands and Vashon Island, in whichever order you choose. The race was created in 2020 as a shorthanded event (limit of five crew) and is one of the most challenging courses in the Pacific Northwest. This year’s event has been expanded to all fully-crewed boats (even TP52s), there will be separate doublehanded scoring, and all boats will be scored in both PHRF and ORC. The race begins on Friday evening off of Point Hudson and has a 50-hour time limit. There are three scored courses: Puget Sound 100: A circumnavigation of Vashon Island. San Juan 100: A circumnavigation of the San Juan Islands. Salish 200: A circumnavigation of both the San Juan Islands and Vashon Island.  www.salish200.com

JUNE 21-25, 2021 It is long overdue, but thankfully the summer’s biggest racing event is back! Race Week is excited to be in a new venue this year: Anacortes. Race organizers and Anacortes stakeholders are very stoked on the partnership, and plans are shaping up brilliantly. The race team has gotten together on site to look at course options and ensure a great experience on the water. Committee work will be in the capable hands of PRO Jeff Zarwell, who is coming up from the SF Bay area to run the racing. Anacortes has a lot to offer off the water as well, and Cap Sante Marina offers camping, accommodations, restaurants, and groceries all within walking distance. Shore-side parties may not fit the traditional Race Week approach, but options are still being explored, and it will be a great time nonetheless!  www.raceweekpnw.com

48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

low tides >>

Products News

» GILL FRONT OR SIDE ZIP PFD The new Gill USCG approved Front or Side Zip PFD is designed with dinghy and sport boat sailing in mind, which demands unrestricted freedom of movement while maintaining maximum comfort. While geared towards sailors, the vests are also perfect for kayaking, standup paddleboarding, and fishing. Sizes range from child to adult small through XXL, and feature several adjustment points to provide a superb fit. Made of 100% Nylon and PE foam, the vests are a Type III approved design, come in four colors, and each style includes a front zippered pocket with mesh drainage. Price: $98.95-125.00 | www.GillMarine.com

» TORQEEDO TRAVEL 603 A new addition to Torqeedo’s lineup of ‘Travel’ lightweight electric outboards, the 603 is specifically designed for small sailboats and dinghies. Equivalent to a 2 hp gas-powered outboard, the short-shaft motor weighs in at 34 pounds — including its battery — and is ultra-quiet, clean and compact. The Travel 603’s solar-chargeable 500 watt-hour lithium-ion battery provides enough power for 5-1/2 hours of cruising at slow speeds. An onboard computer with GPS reports charging status, operating range, and other critical information, and can also be viewed on an Apple or Android smartphone or tablet. Price: $2,000 | www.Torqueedo.com

» HARKEN MKIV OCEAN FURLERS Always the innovator, Harken recently introduced their new lineup of MKIV Ocean furlers, which come in three sizes that can be configured in an unlimited number of foil lengths. Designed and constructed with the same quality of their renowned MKIV Racing furlers, the new Ocean series is specifically configured for cruising sailors and a variety of vessel sizes. Known for their performance and reliability, the MKIV series is engineered with strength, longevity, and ease of use in mind, at a price point that doesn’t break the bank. All MKIV furlers are made of hardcoat-anodized aluminum, UV-stabilized for durability, and include multiple rows of Torlon® ball bearings to minimize friction and make pulling the furling line a less physical experience. The bearings require no lubrication for easy maintenance and the foil has a single groove for a jib or genoa. Price: Starting at $1,762.99 | www.Harken.com

48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

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W W W. R U B I C O N YAC H TS .C O M JUNE 2021

Crossword and Trivia

18 1

9 10

Sognefjord, in Norway, at 127 miles long, is the world’s longest and deepest fjord.

12 14

Mosquito Bay in Puerto Rico holds the world’s record for the brightest bioluminescent bay.

18 19

Lake Maracaibo in Venezuela experiences lightning strikes about 275 times an hour.

Climate change may cause the Great Lakes to shrink, which would be costly. For every inch of draft that a ship loses, it must lighten its load by as much as 270 tons to prevent running aground. The annual cost could be in the billions.

25 26

31 32

ACROSS

1 Toward the stern of a vessel

3 Vessel with two hulls

9 Expressive creation

Nett Lake on the Bois Forte Chippewa reservation in northern Minnesota, is the largest contiguous wild rice lake in the world.

DOWN 1 The entire ship’s company including officers and crew, 2 words

10 Object on the shore which is on nautical maps to fix position at sea

11 Space between

5 Noah's boat

13 It prevents or slows the drift of a ship

6 Mountain, abbr.

2 Shipping weight

3 Commissioned naval rank

4 Canvas cover, for short

20 Structure projecting from the side of a vessel

14 It's used to weigh anchor

22 Small river 26 Upper edge of a ship's side

17 Device used to maintain orientation and angular velocity

30 Inuit's home

21 Storm

31 Chooses

24 Narrow bay

32 Ship's sections

25 Like mature cheese

33 Foot part

27 Stir-fry pan

34 Secure

28 Courses for college credit, abbr.

16 Shake a tail

48º NORTH

Belize, Honduras, and Australia are amongst the world’s few places where you can swim with the largest fish, the whale shark.

The Amazon’s source is a small, icy stream 17,000 feet above sea level in the Andes Mountains of Peru. The Amazon’s average depth is 40 feet, but it’s more than 260 feet in some areas. Oceangoing ships can travel up the Amazon as far as Iquitos, Peru, a distance of 2,300 miles.

29 Light, for short Solution on page 49

The Calendar Islands is a group of 365 islands in Maine’s Casco Bay.

The Amazon River’s flow is more than ten times greater than that of the Mississippi River.

7 Gear supporting the mast 15 Moving a lifeboat, for example and sails 18 Managed 8 Bit of a chill 19 Drop a little 12 Fishing boats

23 Jibs, mizzens, etc.

by Bryan Henry

Lake Assal in Djibouti, Africa, is ten times saltier than the ocean.

DID YOU KNOW?

More than 3,000 species of fish are found in the Amazon River. The Amazon River is fed by more than 1,000 tributaries, seven of which are themselves more than 1,000 miles long.

30 Berg material

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48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

Tech Talk with SeaBits

ADVENTURING WITH SATELLITES by Steve Mitchell Many of us use boating as a way to disconnect from life on land or the daily grind, but when something serious happens, we want to ensure we have a way to call for help. The most universal way to do this on the water is through a VHF radio, but even then you might be faced with long distances or difficulties passing messages. If you’re ashore somewhere, it gets even harder to use a radio or cell phone out in the wilderness. This is where satellite communicators become very helpful. SATELLITE CHOICES Just like smartphones or WiFi systems, there are a range of satellite devices you can use on a boat. At the top end you will find large dome devices from KVH or Intelian that will allow you to use your computer to browse web pages, make phone calls, and more. These domes require a lot of power, are very heavy and bulky, and cost a lot to install as well as operate. You can’t take

Sending a message via iPhone connected to the communicator 48º NORTH

them ashore or use them remotely if you are in an area with no cellular coverage. Further down the range, you will find devices like the Iridium Go, which provide a very focused connection to download weather forecasts, simple emails, and make and receive phone calls. These are much cheaper than a big dome installation, but have limitations in terms of what you can do, and still have rather expensive monthly plans. They do have some features that are similar to satellite communicators, but are more geared towards phone calls and weather than simple communications. Satellite communicators are at the lower end of the range, and provide a streamlined set of features around tracking, messaging, and rescue. They are usually quite small and are easier to use, many are ruggedized, are battery powered, and have very flexible monthly plans and service levels. Overall, these are mostly likely going to be the communications tool that makes the most sense for many Pacific Northwest mariners. SATELLITE COMMUNICATOR FUNCTIONS These devices are specifically designed for three major functions — tracking, messaging, and rescue. They can be used as standalone in most cases, or paired with a cell phone to provide a familiar interface. Some have screens and maps, while others are designed to work with a phone exclusively, saving cost and battery. Tracking allows you to send a link or message to someone else so they can follow your progress as the communicator “checks in” every so often. This can be as frequent as 10 minutes, or as distant as just once per day. Tracking can be helpful when you are in places where there is little-to-no cell service and you want your shore-side followers to know you’re OK, to track where you are, and to ensure there isn’t an issue. Messaging allows you to send simple texts using the device itself, or a cell phone connected via Bluetooth, to people on shore. This can be great to let

Garmin GPSMAP 86sci with g3 folks know you are OK, to coordinate meeting someone, or for non-life threatening emergencies. Rescue is something we all hope we don’t have to use, but is a great feature built into these products. They all differ slightly, but generally speaking, they allow you to push a button and summon help from a call center that monitors for these types of signals. This center will reach out to the Coast Guard, fire departments, and other rescue agencies to try to coordinate reaching you. They can also use the messaging function to communicate with you and ask questions about injuries, locations, and more. The two common choices for these devices are Garmin inReach and Spot Satellite Messenger. There are a number of other newer companies who have come into the market in the last few years and have some interesting offerings, including longer battery life and dedicated text message numbers, and are worth checking out as well. Spot was one of the first companies to offer these devices, and I had one in 2008 JUNE 2021

The author uses his satellite communicator for tracking and messaging every day aboard his power cruiser, Rendezvous. that I used extensively on the sailboat for years to help provide a more complete float plan or shoreside coverage on my longer trips. Garmin acquired DeLorme in 2016, another long running company with this technology, and have really given it a full facelift, while offering the technology in a bunch of different attractive packages. Both of these vendors have a number of different options to choose from depending on how you want to use it. Garmin has better marine mapping and support than Spot, but both have the same base functionality for communications, apps for your smartphone, and other helpful features. SUBSCRIPTION FLEXIBILITY Many vendors in this space have realized that customers only use their devices for specific parts of the year, and have tailored their subscription plans to match. You can start/stop subscriptions at different times of the year with no penalties, downgrade and upgrade the coverage or options depending on your needs, and change many other aspects of your account. They’ve also made the subscriptions reasonably affordable, with some as cheap as $12 per month. That’s pretty inexpensive to have such powerful features and communication options available aboard and ashore. ABOARD THE BOAT Aboard the boat, I use my communicator every day when I’m underway. My shoreside contacts get a text message each morning showing a link they can use to follow my progress throughout the day. Of course, I also send them a text with my float plan and times if I am in cell phone range, but they can monitor my progress in real-time using the tracking feature. During the day, if there are any issues where they can’t reach me via text or phone, they can send a message directly to the communicator which sets off a noisy alert. I can communicate with them via the messaging app on the device, and let them know if there is a problem. 48º NORTH

MORE FEATURES Several vendors are adding more features to communicators, with Garmin being the leader in this space. One that I use myself is the Garmin GPSMAP 86sci which is a satellite communicator plus handheld chartplotter. It’s built for marine use and includes their g3 charts, a floating and waterproof housing, plus connectivity to other Garmin devices. For the outdoor adventurer, you can also add topographical and other land maps to the device, making it a perfect thing to grab when going ashore to explore. Not only do you have complete, detailed, offline maps and hiking information, but you can turn tracking on to ensure I know where I’ve been, and have a way to call for help regardless of cell phone coverage. Perfect for adventures terrestrial and afloat. Vendors are adding other features as well, including things like marine weather forecasts, compass and other sensors, data from your boat network, autopilot control, and more. Many are devices with narrowed feature sets dedicated to certain types of activities like boating, backpacking, and off-roading. MY OWN RESCUE I firmly believe in communicators aboard the boat — and especially while exploring remote places on land — as a result of my own rescue situation. Having grown up on a farm and spent many years out in the wilderness and aboard boats in remote locations, I’m a fairly well-established outdoorsman. In February 2017, a friend and I went snowmobiling about 10 miles from the family cabin in eastern Washington with snow conditions that were pretty extreme. My snowmobile went over the edge of a cornice into a canyon, and became stuck in massively deep snowdrifts. My friend also got stuck, and after four hours of trying to get out, we knew we needed help. It was very cold out, with highs only around 20 degrees fahrenheit — so we knew we had to create a shelter and take care of ourselves for the overnight temperatures. I

was able to use my satellite communicator to talk to folks back at the cabin and arrange to have my brother try to reach us in the dark. He knew the area well and could bring equipment up on another snowmobile to help us get out. He reached us a few hours later, and we were able to get everything out and back down to civilization. Without the communicator, we would have been on our own with a lot of worried friends and relatives. I have no doubt we could have made it out or survived the night safely, but if one of us was more seriously injured, it would have been far better to have the communicator to help coordinate rescue. Having a communicator aboard your boat is a great way to provide a communication channel to people ashore. It allows you to let them follow your journey, and serves as a critical safety link to augment VHF or other methods aboard. It’s also essential if you are exploring shoreside in remote areas not only for maps and tracking, but also as a safety device to call for help if the unexpected occurs.

Steve is a long-time sailor, musician, and tech nerd who loves working on challenging problems. He is the editor of www.SeaBits.com and spends as much time as possible on the water, enjoying the smell of the sea and the sound of the waves.

Using the communicator to talk with our help while getting warm and dry. JUNE 2021

Lessons Learned Cruising

LESSONS FROM

POWER CRUISERS by Behan Gifford

Totem rafted to our buddy boat, the Nordhavn 64 Oso Blanco, in Fiji’s Mamanucas in 2010. Playfully referred to as The Mother Ship, Oso’s experienced crew shared knowledge and sunsets for many months. A collection of cruisers came together on the deck of the Grey Wolf and spent the afternoon working to fashion an adaptor that would get the engine to run again. It was literally a process of making a Franken-filter — the ingredients a mix of parts and ingenuity supplied from several cruising boats. This bias to share resources in a remote place, to give of time and energy and scarce materials — without expectation — left an impression on me. It remains one of the unspoken tenets of cruising culture I value most highly to this day, and has shown true across all types of vessels.

For many cruisers, us included, sailing our vessels from one port to another is in our bones. Or is it? Being driven by the wind isn’t essential to cruising. Along the way during our years afloat, cruisers exploring under power shaped some very important parts of our experience. Importantly, these lessons remind us of what’s universal in the cruising culture and that differences in propulsion type hardly define us as cruisers, friends, and stewards of the ocean and our communities. CRUISING CULTURE: GREY WOLF Jamie introduced me to the concept of cruising, and set the hook of our dream by introducing me to the couple who would become our mentors — Jim and Diana Jessie. One summer in the mid-1990s, we drove down to Baja California to meet up with the Jessies for island-hopping adventures. Anchored in Puerto Don Juan, a call came over the VHF one morning: Grey Wolf, a powerboat across the bay, was having engine trouble. The owner discovered the issue and found the replacement part among his engine spares. Unfortunately, the box containing the spare showed the correct part number, but held a part made for a different engine. He was dead in the water and a long way from, well, anywhere with the right part. 48º NORTH

FIGURING OUT HOMESCHOOLING: OSO BLANCO Homeschooling gave me more anxiety than any other single aspect of cruising, both in anticipation and in our early years. If I’m honest, it still does, although we’ve now demonstrated that we managed not to screw it up (our boatschooled oldest is a junior at Lewis & Clark College, and doing great). Three months into our cruising adventure, I was deeply stressed about our homeschooling path. Sitting on a beach in San Diego, my friend Annie talked me down. She called a powerboat home — the Nordhavn 64, Oso Blanco — and had cruised tens of thousands of miles. I dumped my fears in her experienced lap. She talked through my worries, and promised me it would be OK. In ways subtle

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and overt, she helped me overcome homeschooling hurdles for years. With the perspective of time, I realize this anxiety is common. It’s just hard to pop up the periscope and recognize when you’re living it every day. I needed a homeschooling mentor, and she happened to cruise under power. SHARING THE EXPERIENCE: FURTHUR In Mexico, we encountered Furthur, a Selene 48 with a homeport of Friday Harbor and a row of dancing bears painted on the transom. The owner, Brian, is a confirmed free spirit who left Puget Sound to find adventure… and didn’t want to be a singlehander. Absent a partner, he formed his own merry band(s) along the way, bringing numerous crew aboard over the years. There were usually at least two crew at any given time aboard Furthur. Even Niall joined for a leg in Indonesia, boarding in Bali and sailing (well, motoring) ahead of us for a few days before rejoining Totem at islands near Lombok. There are themes in Brian’s style and crew, but my favorite is their enthusiasm for sharing adventures and creating memories. It’s no accident that some of our standout memories include Furthur’s captain and crew — celebrating Australia Day in Sydney Harbor aboard Furthur; or being serenaded by a man with flying fingers (he turned out to be from Blue Man Group, incognito on holiday) on a little island in Indonesia. Brian and the Furthur crew’s proactive efforts to invite experiences into everyday life lies at the heart of the best of cruising. We don’t cruise to tick off a bucket-list of places, passages, or achievements. We’re here to share the water, to share experiences, and bring positivity to life.

Captain Brian (center) aboard his Selene 48, Furthur, welcomes a crowd onboard for the Sydney-Hobart race start on Boxing Day, 2010. winding though Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand before returning to Oz and moving ashore. When it was time to go again, they chose a power cat — Muscat 2. In Budi Budi atoll, Bev gave me a tour of the boat they fondly referred to as an "Aquabago”. The spacious accommodation (they hosted our crew of five and another family of five for Christmas lunch – and had room to spare!) and a full-size kitchen (Gary’s a restauranteur) were impressive for a boat we recall as around 40 feet in length! They had been diehard sailors, so why did they buy a powerboat? Despite the great light-air performance of their trimaran, they still spent a lot of time motoring. In Southeast Asia, that’s the norm: there’s often very little wind near the equator. With no plans to be in tradewind regions, the power cat was a great fit for regional cruising. It reminded Jamie and I that we could consider the same switch, should we call Salish Sea waters home again. You still have to pick your tide for Cattle Pass, but it’s a lot easier to make progress from A to B (and manage multi-season cruising) under power. As much as sailors like to think about themselves being different from powerboaters, we have vastly more in common than the few areas we differ. Engineless cruisers might be the outliers, but they are a few-and-far-between exception to the typical cruiser. It’s no surprise that — while we use the white flappy things and maintain a genuine and deep appreciation for the ability to harness the wind — so many of our cruising lessons have been learned from our powerdriven counterparts. The most important stuff in life and cruising transcends our small differences and reminds us we really are one big community.

MATCHING BOAT WITH INTENTIONS: MUSCAT Setting off from Australia in 2012, we entered a new chapter in our cruising journey. With a topped up kitty and commitment to avoid resuming mainstream life, we sailed north for Papua New Guinea. Early on, we met Gary and Bev, freshly departed from Queensland for their second round of cruising. The Australian couple had previously sailed a trimaran through Southeast Asia, spending several years

This month Totem is doing a turn as an engineless boat while sorting out options for repowering to be a hybrid sail/ power vessel again! Behan and Jamie Gifford set sail from Bainbridge Island in 2008 and are currently aboard Totem in Mexico. Their column for 48° North has traced a circumnavigation with their three children aboard and continued adventures afloat. Follow them at www.sailingtotem.com

The aft deck of the power cat Muscat 2, laid out for Christmas sundowners in Raja Ampat, Indonesia. 48º NORTH

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Diesel Deep Dive by Meredith Anderson

IS YOUR ENGINE SENDING

SMOKE

SIGNALS? In the 1890s, Rudolf Diesel created the first compression ignition oil-burning engine, and it was was large, heavy, smoky, and slow turning. While the general engineering behind today’s diesels hasn’t changed from the initial invention, a lot has evolved in terms of efficiency and performance. Today's diesels are significantly cleaner burning and are not the chugging smoke-machines we commonly think of when we think diesel. The majority of diesel engines I see in recreational and commercial applications today range in age from approximately 60 years old to brand new. I have seen 60-yearold engines that are meticulously maintained showing almost no smoke, or none at all. Engines made within the last 20 to 30 years came off their manufacturing line running clean with little-to-no smoke.

A clean and unclogged exhaust elbow is part of a smoke-free engine. 48º NORTH

As boaters and boat owners, consider smoke the result of something going on within the engine that needs to be addressed. It can be relatively benign, or extremely serious. Understanding what your exhaust is trying to tell you can help you stop a problem before it causes real damage, or at least it can help prevent problems in the future. I once was called to work on a boat where both diesel engines had significant smoke coming out of their exhaust pipes — nothing crazy, but definitely noticeable. The vessel had a recent mechanical survey done and written in the survey were the words: “Smoke is normal for these engines.” I was appalled that a diesel mechanic would say that. It turns out the engines had several problems, but the biggest was that both had signs of multiple components beginning to fail. The mechanic had failed to see or honor this — perhaps this person thought all diesels smoke. In this oversight, the mechanic failed the customer, who purchased the vessel believing the engines were fine, when in fact they were not. It was a frustrating realization for the customer to discover how much work would be required. I left feeling terrible that such an obvious issue had gone overlooked. Smoke from an engine tells quite a story, providing huge diagnostic clues to us mechanics as we try to figure out what is going on. Engines are very much like humans — they can have health issues just like we can. Medical professionals look, listen, and feel for clues to understand what is going on with their patient. It is no different with an engine. When performing an inspection on an engine, I look, listen, and feel for any abnormalities when the engine is running or not. I always get off the boat and watch the exhaust when

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the engine is started up cold. I also check the exhaust again when the engine is warm, under load or not. By seeing the color(s) of smoke, I know exactly where to look from there. Is it injectors? Clogged exhaust elbow? Poor compression? Water in the engine? The exhaust smoke will tell me where to start saving me time and my customer money.

If oil is getting through the seal of a corroded valve stem, you may see blue smoke.

exhaust mixing elbow is to blame, particularly on smaller sailboat engines with elbows that aren’t made of stainless steel. Yanmar and Volvo’s mixing elbows have a particularly poor design, they almost always look fine on the outside but can be rotted out on the inside, allowing water to go backwards into the engine via the exhaust manifold. If the exhaust plumbing is improperly installed with its outlet high above the engine and no water-lock muffler, the engine can also hydro-lock as water drains back into the exhaust manifold. Water can’t be compressed, so if enough of it makes it into a cylinder, the piston or connecting rod will bend or break. Another issue that produces white smoke is a blown head gasket, where coolant enters the combustion chamber. This is actually less common — except for raw water engines — unless the engine has been severely overheated, the gasket was installed improperly, or it is just worn out. For raw water engines, cracks in the block and head can form over time from normal wear, as raw water engines weren’t designed to last nearly as long as their freshwater counterparts.

BLUE SMOKE Blue smoke is a very common issue with marine diesels. Blue smoke can be several things but is most often burning oil. This means that engine oil is either making it into the cylinders or into the hot exhaust manifold/exhaust ports of the cylinder head. On a naturally aspirated engine, there are only a few areas where this can happen: valve stem seals or piston rings. Most recreational engines have relatively low hours, so while piston ring wear is definitely possible, it’s not nearly as likely as valve stem seals. Oil getting through valve stem seals is a common issue that is benign, as long as it doesn’t become a severe leak. If a valve stem seal blows completely, you would see solid engine oil actually pouring out of the exhaust into the water and at that point, it needs to be addressed no matter what! Worn piston rings become more common if the engine is poorly maintained, idled a lot with little or no load, or has high hours. If your piston rings are worn, an engine rebuild is inevitable. On forced air induction engines, burning oil can be a potentially serious issue as items like turbos and blowers (on Detroit 2-stroke engines) can be leaking oil into the air intake or exhaust side. Oil leaking into the air intake from a blower, supercharger, or turbo can be a serious issue as it can be potential for a runaway situation. A runaway engine that is burning engine oil is just like it sounds: it can’t be stopped by pushing the STOP button on the panel. It will either come to a violent stop by breaking something or seizing once engine oil is gone. The only safe way to shut the engine down is to plug the intake with a book, close the damper (on a roots style blower) or snuff it out with a Co2 fire extinguisher. None of us want that to happen! If you see lots of blue smoke and your engine has forced air induction – check those items and address them first.

GRAY/BLACK SMOKE Gray, or even black smoke is most often a sign of poor or incomplete combustion. Look closely, because grey smoke can appear almost white, when it is in fact gray and signaling something different than white smoke does. Look for this light gray smoke especially when cranking over a cold engine that may not want to start. Failing, dirty, or broken injectors will cause all kinds of gray/black smoke. Injector nozzles are tiny – designed to atomize diesel in a broad pattern as it enters the combustion chamber. If a nozzle is partially blocked, dripping, or the injector is not “popping off” at the right pressure — you will see grayish black smoke during operation or initial startup. Dripping injectors can burn pistons and valves; so if it’s bad enough, then injectors should be serviced or replaced. A clogged air cleaner can also cause grayish black smoke as the engine is starving for air, causing poor combustion. This is a fairly narrow spectrum of what all can happen when you see smoke, but I hope it provides a reminder to pay attention to your exhaust because it tells you a story. A lot of smoke I see is harmless for a period of time — but if the problem goes neglected, it can grow to be an expensive problem down the road. Listen to your engine when it’s sending you smoke signals! It will save you in the long run.

WHITE SMOKE White smoke is something no boat owner wants to see, as it can be a sign that water has entered the combustion chamber or hot exhaust. The culprits? Most often, the wet

Meredith Anderson is the owner of Meredith’s Marine Services, where she operates a mobile mechanic service and teaches hands-on marine diesel classes to groups and in private classes aboard their own vessels.

Certain makes of elbow are notorious for looking ok on the outside, but being rotten on the inside. 48º NORTH

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My Boat

CLASSIC

RACER-CRUISER: The Swan 391 OxoMoxo For Doug Frazer, sailing started at a young age in a remarkably unconventional way when, in 1962, his dad bought a 36-foot wooden staysail schooner that happened to be resting on the bottom of Santa Monica Bay. As he recalls: “My dad thought it would be a good deal since there wasn’t much competition to buy the boat and we could do all the work as a family. We raised that boat from the bottom of the bay, named her the Tropic Bird (later Tropic Turd) and towed her around Point Fermin and worked on her — sanding, varnishing, and rebuilding the one cylinder Yanmar diesel. We sailed that boat to Catalina Island a few times and had some great adventures snorkeling and hanging on a mooring in Avalon.” From those shipwreck saving beginnings, the next boat was the one that would put the sea in his veins: “After the Tropic Bird, my dad and uncle — both relatively terrified of the ocean — bought a Columbia 28 around 1973. I was off to college the next year in Santa Barbara and this is when sailing really started for me. I would sneak the Columbia

Singlehanding is a nervous-joy, and Doug takes a deep breath after setting the spinnaker. 48º NORTH

OxoMoxo is easily identified by her spinnaker colors while racing and cruising. 28 out of Los Angeles harbor and sail her for 20 hours with my surfing buddies up to Santa Cruz Island where we explored, hiked, surfed; and lived off of fish, lobster, and beer. I wore that boat out over the next few years and my dad and uncle didn’t even know about our adventures until many years later.” After college, Doug took some time off of sailing until about 10 years ago when his beloved sister died from ovarian cancer. “I knew I needed to heal,” he said, “So I called up a friend who knew more about sailboats here in the PNW and he steered me to a Hunter 17. Sailing that boat helped me heal from the grief of losing a sibling, and then the Swan came along around 6 years ago.” About the Swan 391 OxoMoxo Built between 1981 and 1987, the Swan 391 represents Nautor Swan at the early peak of its racer-cruiser period of renowned design, craftsmanship, and performance. Designed by Ron Holland, Swan 391s have done exceptionally well on race courses throughout the world and are also known for being comfortable cruisers. Consistent with this history, Doug Frazer’s 1983 Swan 391 OxoMoxo has had her fair share of fun and success sailing throughout the Pacific Northwest.

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In this latest ‘My Boat’ installment, Doug fills us in on how he came to buy this classic design and why she’s named OxoMoxo, as well as the story of one of the most epic knockdowns you can imagine.

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Tell us the story of how you found your boat and what makes it special to you. Originally inspired by the cool, sharky look of its IOR design — with wide decks and wedge-shaped cabin top — the Sweden 36 (which was in my budget) was the first boat I set out to buy. I found a suitable boat in Victoria and went up to see her. In addition to the Sweden, there was also a Jonmeri 42 and a Swan up there. The old Swede was worn out from a career of weekend racing and the interior was pretty tired. I had a look at the Jonmeri, but it looked slow and like too much of a project for me. So, I finally went to see this one-owner Swan that had only been sailed in the summers. It didn’t take much for me to fall in love. What’s the history of your boat? Tell us its story. OxoMoxo was originally purchased through a Seattle broker and was built for the buyer — a cardiologist from Oregon. Doctor Chapman and his family sailed the boat in the San Juan Islands and around the Gulf Islands during the 30-odd years they owned it.

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What do you like best about your boat? She has enriched my life in so many ways. I love that she has brought me so many friends, especially in the sailing community here in Seattle. She has brought me back to happy again and healed me from moments of sadness and loss.

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Doug at the helm of OxoMoxo skimming along on flat water at the north end of Bainbridge Island. 48º NORTH

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A friend of Doug's, Stefan Damstrom at the helm with OxoMoxo powered up under the #3 jib. the A’s. An entry from the Urban Dictionary describes AoxomoxoA as such: “If you fly stunt kites to win competitions, you won't understand, but if you fly to give pleasure and entertain the audience, you might find AoxomoxoA. If tangled lines are an irritating frustration, you won't understand, but if you find untangling relaxing and therapeutic, you might find AoxomoxoA.” Describe the most challenging situation you’ve experienced on your boat and how it performed. We have raced OxoMoxo in the longer races in the region including Swiftsure, winning the Van Isle 360 in 2017, and then racing in the 2018 Vic Maui. At the end of one Swiftsure race, I think in 2016 or so, I had a full crew onboard and we were bombing along under spinnaker. Nearing the final turn into Victoria from the middle of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, we accidentally wrapped the kite around the headstay and were knocked down in 40 to 45 knots of breeze. As you’d expect, we couldn’t get the kite down and could not seem to get the boat back on her keel. All of a sudden our 40-foot boat seemed about the size of a dinghy and we were really flummoxed about how to get back on our feet and into the harbor. We called for the Canadian Coast Guard because we were concerned that we might not make the harbor entrance and end up below the entrance, or worse, on the breakwater itself. Fortunately, the wind finally abated when we were within about 200 yards of the entrance and we were able to finish. What’s one of your favorite stories involving your boat? The birth of the “OxoMoxo Rule” during the Van Isle 360 is a 48º NORTH

memorable story. To start, though, I must say that the year we won the Van Isle was a very lucky race for many reasons, least of which was any expertise that I brought to the equation. We were lucky to get a Canadian named Ged McLean on our crew. Ged is one of the smartest and most tenacious guys I know, and he somehow managed to get our team to work harder than ever, inspiring all of us to never back off the throttle. Having my 10 year old son on board kept the mood light and as the youngest sailor in the fleet, he always received special treatment. One of the funny circumstances we experienced was at the finish of the Ucluelet to Victoria leg. The finish line was an imaginary line drawn from Clover Point south out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca, but the rules did not state how close we needed to be to Clover point on that line. As we approached the finish in the morning after chasing light breezes all night, OxoMoxo found herself nearly 10 miles off Clover Point, but ahead of our fleet. We radioed the committee and pointed out that we were crossing the finish line…but they said “We can’t see you!.” We replied that we were crossing the line, but were 10 miles offshore. It was determined that this was a legal finish. At the awards ceremony at the Royal Victoria Yacht Club, we were commended for our close reading of the rules and were awarded second place on that leg. Thus, the OxoMoxo Rule was born.

Whether it’s a beloved cruising sailboat, powerboat, racing boat, wooden boat, workboat, tug boat, or even a kayak or old Laser, we want to share your boat’s story in 48° North’s “My Boat” series. Email andy@48north.com to get started.

JUNE 2021

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JUNE 2021

SAIL to SURF

ONE WATER-BORNE PASSION by Karl KrÜger ENABLES ANOTHER

48º NORTH

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ever leave two feral ‘tweenager’ kids in charge if you aren’t prepared for some mayhem. My good friend, Matt Nelson, and I were paddling over to the wave, when bits of music, giggles, and breathless, impatient reminders and questions crackled over the VHF I wore on my chest. We had just splashed our surfboards and paddled away from Ocean Watch, my 64-foot charter sailing vessel. My daughter, Dagny, and one of her close friends were on anchor watch, and took the job very seriously, while enjoying themselves immensely. When I glanced over my shoulder as I paddled away, I was not at all surprised to see Dagny’s turquoisecolored aerial silk being hoisted on the staysail halyard. It made me enormously happy to see two kids running back and forth between the foredeck and the VHF to intermittently ask questions about the finer points of hoisting a silk, and also remind me that they, too, wanted to take a turn at surfing. The day was sunny and warm, and the eastern end of the Strait of Juan De Fuca was glassy and calm. There was a lowand-lazy west swell running. It was late spring, but felt like summer in almost every way but the swell. The Olympic Mountains shone silvery and watchful in the distance, as Matt and I investigated a spot we hoped would generate some good conditions for surfing. We could see small peelers from the foredeck as we anchored, but wave size is sometimes tough to judge at a distance. With the westerly swell and the slack between the ebb and the subsequent flood, the spot appeared to be working. This wave in particular forms over a pointy reef where the depths of the Strait climb from 200 to 300 feet on average, to under 30 feet in the space of about 2 miles. Typically, the farther east you are in the Strait, the more fickle the surf becomes. This fact is due to its length and the attenuating effects of the currents, as well as the swellabsorbing effects of the bottom contours. Another reductive factor is the gradually decreasing distance between the Olympic Peninsula and Vancouver Island. The greatest allure of sail-to-surf trips for me has always been access. As long as you can find a place to anchor your vessel — and you can commit to not going ashore — you may explore places that most landlubbers may not reach. Although, one of the most challenging, and therefore rewarding, aspects of sail-to-surf trips is the tension between good seamanship and good surfing. A location where you might find a good wave to surf doesn’t necessarily translate to a safe and comfortable anchorage. These facts are how I found myself surfing small waves with Matt that day, as Ocean Watch rolled gently in the swell while two towheaded hooligans kept an eye on things. We had found a spot where a VW-beetle-sized granite glacial erratic split the wave into a left AND right point break…we had options. On that day, if you chose the left, you needed to stay high on the wave to keep your fin clear of the reef as you passed over it. A crash here would have proved educational, and would almost certainly have gifted a few new scars…but the rides were long. If you choose the right, deeper water but a shorter ride would be your reward. Each wave we caught was a cost/ benefit analysis. We usually went left.

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Catching waves in the PNW takes work, but the payoffs are worth it.

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As a result of the riskier conditions that day, I declined to allow Dagny and her friend a crack at getting flayed by the sharp rocks. This news was met by a demand for the promise of another trip (very soon) where we could surf together. Dagny has always loved being in the water, and surfing is the cherry on top. Matt and I returned to Ocean Watch happy and hungry for more trips like this. We made lunch and made our way back across the Strait to Orcas Island. Four months deeper into the quarantine, and desperate to get away from Orcas, Dagny and I sailed across the Straits again in search of surf. The forecast showed an 8-foot northwest swell in two days’ time. September sessions were upon us. We left the Strait of Juan De Fuca Lighted Buoy 4 to port as we neared Angeles Point. There are a number of waves near the mouth of the Elwha that need no introduction for surfers in the Pacific Northwest. Anchoring in this area is a bad idea for anything beyond short term. Unless you are a really big vessel. The very swells you come here to surf make life really uncomfortable at anchor. Fortunately, the day Dagny and I arrived, neither of us wanted to hang out aboard. We planned to anchor near the Elwha only to surf for a while, then head someplace else for the night. Another of the many things I love about sail-to-surf, is how analogous it is to the earn-your-turns mantra for which backcountry skiers pride themselves. If you have sailed yourself to a spot in hopes of surfing, it is incredibly unlikely you will leave without surfing. It is one experience to sit in your car with a hot drink, pondering whether or not the wave on the other side of your windshield is worth getting cold and wet for…and quite another to approach a wave from the water. Approaching by water, you will surf whatever is available, while many of the latte-sippers up in the parking lot go back home to read a book or weed the garden when they find lessthan-ideal conditions. Or they might drive from spot to spot all day looking for better conditions — perhaps eventually jumping in the water, perhaps not. I’ve been there too. Comfort is a trap that is difficult to free yourself from. By contrast, I have found that within minutes after anchoring in a spot to surf, we are wiggling into wetsuits and either paddling or skiffing in to go surf. We jump in the water no matter what. We earned this. Instead of the search for perfection, we just get in the water, and see what mother ocean has for us. The day we arrived at Angeles Point, we found waist- to chesthigh waves that gave no small relief from the dim anxiety of watching Ocean Watch rolling about all alone just offshore. We never touched shore. Later, we hoisted the staysail and mainsail for the beat up to Crescent Bay, where we hoped we could tuck in far enough to escape the building swell. We had a lovely sail, avoiding the rocks and reefs along the shoreline, while ducking the shipping traffic out in the VTS lanes. We doused sail outside Crescent just before dark, while rolling heavily. We motored from one end of the bay to the other, looking for relief from the swell. Eventually, we tucked in as far as we dared behind the west point of the bay. At first, we anchored a little farther out, and the roll was intolerable. Moving just 75-feet farther west, we re-anchored in 20-feet of water, found sweet relief, and got some rest before surfing the next morning.

Dagny chills out at anchor.

Ocean Watch rests at anchor in Crescent Bay. 48º NORTH

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While sipping coffee and tea at sunrise, we marveled at how clear the water was. One could clearly see where the anchor chain disappeared below the sand on the bottom. Just below the surface off the bow of Ocean Watch, there was a large Dungeness crab riding on a bulb of bull kelp. Shortly after dawn, in our wetsuits, we loaded our boards into the RIB, and zoomed over to the surf spot. Dagny set the little bruce-style anchor just outside the break, we attached our leashes to ankles, and paddled into the surf. Hours later, after countless waves, and when our hungry bellies demanded attention, we headed home. Later that day, after lunch and some rest, we again squirmed into our suits, grabbed our weight belts, fins, masks, and went free diving. Again, we anchored the skiff out by the reef, and slipped over the side… and were rewarded by clear, cold water and a very strong sense of being at the tippy top end of the massive Pelagic column of the Pacific Ocean. We have similarly worked our way along the south coast of Vancouver Island, and all the way up the west coast to Alaska. There are countless breaks to investigate. Many are known to surfers, and have code names attached. An unknown number have no names, and perhaps have never been surfed before — and many of these are only accessible thanks to our mode of travel. After running a variety of charters and deliveries, and cruising the Salish Sea for the last 25 years, I get most excited by these sail-to-surf trips. I always learn something new about this place we call home. Navigating the nuances and vagaries of

From Washington to BC and Alaska, the rewards of sailing to surf are limitless. sailing to less-than-ideal anchorages to surf is one of the most challenging and rewarding activities I have experienced.

Karl lives aboard his 64-foot cutter Ocean Watch and runs charters and cruises in the PNW, BC and Alaska. He will SUP the Northwest Passage summer 2022, and skipper the science expedition ‘America's Ocean Watch.’ Find out more at www.karlkrugerofficial.com

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JUNE 2021

KENAI PENINSULA DISCOVERED by Andy Cross

ADVENTURE AND SOLITUDE FOUND IN THIS STUNNING CRUISER’S PLAYGROUND

eaching south out of Resurrection Bay past the Rugged Islands, a large easterly swell rolls from our port side, and a dense, rainy fog envelops jagged Aialik Cape to the southwest. The glorious weather we basked in days before near Seward is but a fleeting memory, as a strong gale has been whipping the Gulf of Alaska into a frenzy ever since. Our true welcoming party to the Kenai fjords, then, is a washing machine ride around the cape — a rip-off-the-bandaid sort of sail that opens our eyes, turns our stomachs just enough, and makes us say, “Hello again, ocean.”

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The ominous cape we’re transiting deserves the wide berth we give it. Rain pours off my hood while I steer through the 10-plus foot swell and mixed up waves reverberating off the rocky headland. To be sure, it’s proving to be a sporty rounding that is invigorating and exciting in an odd way that only a sailor can appreciate. Fortunately, it’s a short ride to salvation. Once we tuck around the eastern side of this narrow peninsula into Aialik Bay, our crew finds calm seas and what will turn into two weeks of truly remote cruising on the Kenai Peninsula. The payoff is worth it.

GETTING HERE Three days prior, our family (with Jill’s mom Donna in tow) departed Seward back into the cruising life. We’d hit the pause button less than two years earlier for Jill to work and for us to complete some necessary projects on our beloved floating home. In that time, we worked on various upgrades — large and small — to Yahtzee, but immersing ourselves in the community and making wonderful friends and memories was the real reward. Now, ready for another summer of cruising in Alaska before sailing south for warmer climes, our first goal is to JUNE 2021

spend two weeks hopping down the Kenai Peninsula’s many fjords, islands, bays, and coves. Simultaneously serene and rugged, a stunning landscape full of glaciers, tall mountain peaks, and thick forests promises an unforgettable adventure after breaking free from civilization and turning west into the wilds of Kenai Fjords National Park and beyond. Each stop along the way will provide new and impressive vantage points from which to experience this seldom cruised region of Alaska. AIALAK BAY BEGINNINGS Perched in Yahtzee’s companionway staring across a glassy cove, a scene unfolds before me that seems surreal. A waterfall plummets from a verdant forest and tumbles into the sea. Clouds swirl and dance between mountaintops, and a heavy mist reminds me that indeed, we are cruising in a temperate rainforest — just in case I wasn’t fully aware. After rounding Aialak Cape (pronounced I-al-ick), the feeling of wilderness is palpable, in many ways on par with our time spent in Glacier Bay National Park two summers before. No cell service and virtually no VHF connection ushers in an intense sense of solitude and creates the need for selfsufficiency all cruisers strive for. Though nearly devoid of people, the bay is teaming with life. We dust off our field guides and identify a variety of seabirds, sea stars, urchins, and anemones. Bald eagles and gulls soar overhead, pairs of black oystercatchers chatter at us, seals and otters play in anchorages; and, much to our surprise, we even come across a lone wolverine trundling along a beach. From our first anchorage in Three Hole Bay, we motorsail northward to Coleman Bay and then Abra Cove. Though Aialak Bay is named as such, it is actually a glacial fjord; one of several that make up Kenai Fjords National Park. Moving farther north into the bay, we stare in awe at steep mountains rising from a deep sea. Razor-sharp ridge lines and impressively twisted coves and valleys make up the eastern and western shores where hanging glaciers reside in cirques and three huge glaciers creep seaward down self-made valleys like fingers of ice: 48º NORTH

Resurrection Bay

Aialak Bay

Aialak Cape

Taz Basin Palisade Lagoon Thunder Bay

Tonsina Bay

Some of the highlights of Yahtzee’s voyage between Resurrection Bay and Tonsina Bay. Holgate, Aialik, and Pederson. The former two are tidewater glaciers, meaning they terminate in the bay and we watch as they do just that, calving with a thunderous roar into the water. Motoring carefully between bits of ice, we dip a net in to collect our fair share for the cooler and cocktails before anchoring with a stunning view of both Aialik and Pederson glaciers looming in the distance. Along with the natural beauty, plentiful wildlife, and sporadic spots of sunshine that highlight our first few days, our crew is also respecting the last spring low pressure system sweeping in from the notoriously unsettled Gulf of Alaska. Reminiscent of winter cruising in the Salish Sea, the rain and wind that comes with this deep low makes moving from one anchorage to another difficult at times, and prolonged heavy downpours keep us boat-bound more than we like. It’s the end of May, and our crew is ready for a bigger taste of summer — any day now, we tell ourselves while watching the barometer drop yet again. Such is life

Caption

Seldom visited by cruising sailboats, Kenai Fjords National Park is a truly wild destination. aboard a cruising sailboat in Alaska, but our weather fortunes will soon change. UNFORGETTABLE TAZ BASIN From my position atop a large, round granite boulder, sweeping views of the Gulf of Alaska and rugged Kenai JUNE 2021

Peninsula coast seemingly stretch on forever. Turning the opposite direction to the east, the scene is quite different. Yahtzee sits on a still pane of dark water in the corner of a nearly enclosed cove called Taz Basin (Editor's Note: see cover for an image of Taz Basin). Behind her, rock walls and thousand-foot mountain peaks tower skyward, leading my eyes from sea level to the tops of tall waterfalls. From here, it’s easy to understand why this distinctive anchorage on aptly named Granite Island earned a locals nickname of “Hole-in-the-wall”, and is rightly referred to as “…one of the most scenic and secluded small boat anchorages on the outer coast.” Surely, Taz Basin deserves all the

praise it gets from those who are fortunate enough to nestle amongst its hallowed walls. But getting in or out of the anchorage is not entirely carefree. Prominently marking the very narrow entrance to the basin is a big flat rock smack in the middle of the channel that takes caution to slide past. Once we’re in, though, we take a deep relaxing breath and marvel at our surroundings. With the anchor set, we head out by dinghy to take in stunning views of the cliffs and waterfalls. Being such a steep-walled cove, there aren’t many places to stretch our legs ashore but we scramble over the big boulders on the small peninsula that makes up the northern flank of the entrance.

Yahtzee enjoys a solid breeze and sunny skies while sailing in Kenai Fjords National Park. 48º NORTH

Standing here gazing out to sea in awe, ruminating over that narrow entrance, and then shifting focus back into the basin at Yahtzee resting comfortably, is truly unforgettable. Above the boat, low clouds spill over the rocks and trees, and the fine mist we’ve had all morning finally ends. It’s a sign. Hours later, the grey skies slowly get brighter, patches of blue appear, and before we know it the cove is being gloriously bathed in sunshine. Finally, our patience with the weather has paid off and a taste of summer is upon us. Like sailors possessed, we fling open hatches, shed wet layers, hang foul weather gear to dry, and I happily watch the battery level rise while our solar panels soak in the sun. Soon, I’m off barefoot on our SUP, paddling to waterfalls, and around the infamous rock that guards the entrance to the cove. The vibrant rays make it feel like we’re in an entirely different place. GEMS OF THE KENAI Looking up into the cockpit at Jill, Porter and Magnus, the morning sun bursts over lofty mountains, fills Yahtzee with warmth and light, and spills out into Thunder Bay. When the clouds finally broke in Taz Basin the day before, it kicked off a staggeringly good stretch of weather and our Kenai Peninsula playground is now ripe for adventure. We oblige accordingly. Working our way southwest past and through the deep fjords, we seemingly live every day in a dreamworld of sunshine and light breezes. This is what we’d been waiting for — summer cruising at its finest. In Thunder Bay, our crew takes to shore, exploring the numerous beaches and roasting s’mores over an evening campfire. We shower in a glacierfed waterfall and are constantly inspired by the connection between mountains, glaciers, and the sea. From Thunder Bay, we continue westward to Midnight Cove and then Palisade Lagoon. Another narrow entrance, reminiscent of Taz Basin, greets us at the lagoon and once we’re in, a breathtaking cathedral of peaks, forests, and waterfalls engulfs us on nearly all sides. Our cruising guide mentions the remains of an old gold mine being a JUNE 2021

relatively easy one mile hike up the river at the lagoon’s head, and we quickly set off to find it. Removing layers while walking deeper into the woods, it’s like stepping into a completely different time and place. Sure enough, we come upon the nearly 90-year-old mining claim that is strewn with old equipment and dilapidated buildings. Looking through the remnants, it’s hard to grasp exactly what life would have been like in this isolated slice of Alaskan wilderness. Yet, we’ve gotten enough of a taste of solitude here to know that, like cruising, living in this place probably had some intense highs and lows. TONSINA BAY FINALE At about this time, our minds start to drift towards civilization and a planned stop 120-miles south at Kodiak Island to meetup with other cruising buddies, get provisions, and top up on fuel and water. To make the crossing in favorable conditions, we hole up in Tonsina Bay at the southern end of the peninsula for two days and nights and wait for the right weather window to hop out into the Gulf of Alaska. A perfect place to end our time on the Kenai since departing Seward two weeks ago, we find a dazzling sand beach to kick our shoes off and play in the sunshine. On one of my daily paddleboard adventures, I’m treated to a small pod of orca swimming past me through the cove, and in the evening our family watches a black bear forage the shoreline for a meal from the safety of the foredeck. Unreal. Moments like these, and many more, make the stormy start to our voyage seem like a lifetime ago. There’s a bittersweet sentiment to the end of our time cruising the peninsula. We’d sailed past this area two years ago not knowing at the time that we’d hit the pause button in Seward. And as we put Tonsina Bay over our shoulders and sail south, it’s with a fond, “See you next time!” not, “Goodbye”. Only the very best cruising destinations leave us with this unmistakable feeling — and the Kenai Peninsula surely has.

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TALES

by Joshua Wheeler

OF THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE: TUKTOYAKTUK - WHAT'S IN A FISH? Tuktoyaktuk (left to right): Bruce's skiff; S/V Breskell (the yellow boat) American flagged, French crew; S/V Morgane, Belgium flagged, Swiss crew; S/V Snow White, Czech Republic. Photo by Eric Maffre. Night had begun to return since leaving the last settlement of Cambridge Bay. Headed west, the wind on our nose, Breskell pounded into the teeth of the Dolphin and Union Strait. At times, she launched off one wave and slammed into the next, shuddering for several seconds on impact. As we ducked behind Read Island to anchor out the storm, we bumped over something unmarked, a constant danger in the poorly charted Arctic. The virtues of Breskell’s swing keel were clear when it avoided damage, pivoting up and over the obstacle. Carrying on after the blow in the Amundsen Gulf, we struck a growler, an iceberg too small to show up on the radar but big enough to smash a hole in Breskell’s upper topside. We made an on-the-water repair which worked until, headed into the teeth of the Beaufort Sea, it didn’t. The bailing commenced, and we headed to Tuk.

fter a rough leg, a weary crew of four tied up to the earthen and timber public dock in Tuktoyaktuk to reprovision, repair, and recoup. It was August 27, 2019, and Breskell, a 50-foot, yellow, wooden, cold-molded, sloop-rigged sailboat, built and captained by Olivier Huin, was only halfway

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through her voyage. We had left St. John's, Newfoundland, in mid-July, bound for Port Townsend, Washington, via the fabled Northwest Passage. The Northwest Passage, a sea route through the Arctic Ocean, was elusive to 19th-century explorers, sometimes ending in tragedy, as was the case for the infamous Sir John Franklin expedition in the late 1840s. They braved the unknown and unpredictable cold and ice of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago in search of a shorter shipping route between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans. The icy conditions of the time clogged the waterways, and their slow wooden ships were unable to transit in one season. If frozen in, their hulls risked being crushed by the pressure of the shifting ice. Crews faced a long, dark, cold, and hungry winter (or winters) of survival conditions, with only a remote chance of rescue in the short summer seasons. Now, some two hundred years later, and especially since 2000, things are different. The arctic climate has warmed enough to adequately melt the ice in July and August for modern boats to pass, with several transits per year by government, commercial, and recreational vessels. After the season of 2019, an unofficial

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list placed Breskell among the latest of only 313 transits of the Northwest Passage in recorded history. Of those, over 240 of them have been in the 21st century alone.1 Tuktoyaktuk, or Tuk for short, is a settlement in the Northwest Territory of mainland Canada, on the edge of the Arctic Ocean, about 175 NM east of the Alaskan border. Starting as a place to hunt caribou and whales, it then became an English trading post.2 In the 1950s, it became a Distant Early Warning Line station and a DEW Line resupply hub. More recently, Tuk has been a base for oil and gas exploration. Well above the Arctic Circle, the community of less than a thousand is nestled among the pingos (ice-hills only found in permafrost regions) at the end of a new and long road from the south. The significance of this is that Tuk can be supplied by sea, by air, AND by land. This makes it a strategic re-provisioning stop for boats transiting the Northwest Passage. Breskell, traveling from east to west, had been island hopping from the get-go, and Tuk was the first stop of the voyage on the North American mainland. The public dock allowed for convenient — relatively speaking — access to groceries, diesel, oil, and water. I recalled a previous stop at Baffin Island’s Pond Inlet on the east side of the Passage and the unenviable task of ferrying 800 liters of diesel in bladders from the beach in the dinghy. Breskell was pitching in the sloppy anchorage, and the surf was topping my boots. The ailing outboard engine was behaving in fits and starts, and while I had oars, I discovered the oarlocks to be absent. So, yes, I considered Tuk to be high style indeed. But while provisioning and repairs were the heart of our stop and the lifeblood of our expedition, they were not the soul. I reserve those honors for a local named Bruce, and a vagrant fish. This story is really about them. I met Bruce by chance upon returning to the dock after surveying Tuk’s provisioning establishments. Captain Huin had tasked me with tracking down some oil for Breskell’s Perkins diesel, as well as a contact for fuel delivery and some sealant for the topside repair. Bruce, his dark face and eyes outlined by dark-but-silvering facial hair, wore a black Tuktoyaktuk beanie with a white beluga whale embroidered on it. There was a skiff on the beach adjacent to the public dock, and he was loading it up with gear from his late-model pickup truck. We made eye contact, so I said hello and asked him how he was. His response was friendly, so I continued to engage. "I was wondering about that skiff,” I said. Bruce explained he used it to check his fishing nets. The catch would feed his dogs, which he kept on an island about 200 meters off the dock. "Oh, I was wondering about them too.” When Breskell approached the public dock on arrival, we passed a low-lying island about the size of a football field. It was barren except for a pack of dogs, a few doghouses, and well-trodden tundra. Dogs are plentiful across the Arctic communities. Cautious not to impose outsider cultural values, my observation was they were considered more as wintertime tools for pulling sleds and less as pets. These were not house dogs. In Sisimiut, Greenland, there were acres of dogs in what I dubbed Hound Town, just outside the city. While the young pups had free reign, each adult was chained or penned, their masters visiting daily to feed them. They had humbly built doghouses with an interior 48º NORTH

Bruce dressing salmon alongside a family member. Photo by Eric Maffre. baffle to provide extra shelter from the frigid Arctic wind. This scene would repeat itself in various forms across the Arctic settlements. In Tuk, Bruce's solution was to isolate the dogs on this island. “What kind of fish will you catch?” I queried. He would likely be catching salmon, to which I naively expressed joy. He agreed it was delicious but explained that for Tuk, salmon was a disrupting fish. Traditionally, he would be catching whitefish. But as another apparent sign of a changing climate and water temperatures, Pacific Salmon have been extending their range farther north.3 For better or worse, the introduction of an outside species will affect the ecosystem. As a Puget Sound resident where the salmon is highly regarded, protected, and presently in short supply, I found it fascinating that Tuk residents considered it a vagrant species. We parted ways, each of us getting on with our missions. I reported my recon to Captain Huin, then set out for the final purchases. As I returned to the dock, so had Bruce. He had checked the nets, fed the dogs, and was at the beach dressing out a few salmon. Joined by Eric, Breskell's mate, we talked about living in the area year-round and how he was a subsistence hunter and fisherman. The cost of imported food was high. Fishing and hunting, as his ancestors had been doing for generations, were still viable. And sometimes it meant food to go around. To illustrate his point, Bruce handed Eric and me a large dressed out salmon. Breskell had a large variety of foodstuffs on board, but fresh meat was not one of them. Lumpy sea conditions and the cycles of watch standing can often inhibit sophisticated cooking while underway. Rice, noodles, bacon, and canned fare were regulars, with long-lasting cabbage as a staple too. Freshly caught salmon

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Breskell's Salon (left to right): Leila Gharbi, the author, Olivier Huin, Robin Kislig, Amanda Landon, Eric Maffre. Photo by Eric Maffre. was going to be an extra special treat and good for morale. It was exciting. Breskell had our own fishing pole we hung off the stern, but our typical speed of 7 knots appeared to be too fast for results. We did have seagulls trying to snatch our hydroplaning lures, luckily without success. Eric and I passed the salmon on to Leila, Breskell's head chef, for preparation. That evening we invited Amanda and Robin from Morgane, another transiting sailboat, over for dinner. Both the fish and the company made for a beautiful and memorable experience. Twenty-nineteen saw 24 boats transiting the Northwest Passage; two in 2018, an icy year; 32 in 2017; and 18 in 2016.4 For a settlement such as Tuk, the arrival of boats transiting the Northwest Passage is a budding tourism industry. When locals hear about visitors, they go to the docks offering crafts such as carved stone for sale. For Breskell's part, we purchased motor oil, groceries, and hundreds of liters of delivered diesel fuel, spending $1,000 CAD in Tuk alone. Likewise, in Cambridge Bay before that, adding water to the tally. Cruise ships are among those numbers too. In Pond Inlet, one arrived in the anchorage just after Breskell and commenced to shuttle passengers to and from the shore for the next few hours. Coincidentally, their wakes contributed to the sloppy anchorage of my diesel-ferrying ordeal. The Canadian government has a territorial, political, and economic interest in the Canadian Arctic Archipelago and its surrounding waters, including the Northwest Passage. With more favorable conditions and reliable transiting, the significance of development and control is increasing. In 2020, Transport Canada closed the Passage to most pleasure craft due to COVID-19, and cruise ships were not operating. Local and essential traffic were exempted, along with those “exercising the Right of Innocent Passage,” which means no stopping.5 2021 is still a question mark. As the Arctic continues to warm and travel resumes, it seems likely the numbers of boats, passengers, and services will increase too. 48º NORTH

But in 2019, Bruce's act of kindness transcended pure commerce. The chance of the encounter and the spirit of the action combined for an exceptional moment. I've had similar interactions with people on expeditions before. The adventure captured their imagination. Offering unsolicited aid allowed them to live it vicariously. With Bruce, interactions were brief, and I'll not purport to know his motivations. Maybe he was teaching us about local life, tradition, generosity, and subsistence? With dogs to feed, he would be checking his nets every day. Maybe he had more fish than he knew what to do with? Or he simply wanted to be kind to strangers. Whatever the reasons, his acts of friendliness and inclusion were welcomed and contagious, and I am glad I took the chance to say hello. The rhythm of living and voyaging on a small boat, the constant closeness of the crew, coupled with isolation from the rest of society, makes this encounter memorable. Bruce's friendship and conversation, especially after a particularly challenging leg of Breskell's journey, was a positive and refreshing reminder of the outside world and a morale boost. Human connection and kindness are what often make a lasting impression wherever we may travel.

Joshua Wheeler lives aboard his Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20, Sampaguita, in Port Townsend, WA. When not on expeditions, he reads, writes, and studies anything nautical. He holds a 50-ton Masters license. Check out his blog: www.sailingwithjosh.com.

1 www.spri.cam.ac.uk/resources/infosheets/northwestpassage.pdf 2 www.tuktoyaktuk.ca/ 3 www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans/soto-rceo/arctic-arctique/ publications/public-report/index-eng.html 4 www.spri.cam.ac.uk/resources/infosheets/northwestpassage.pdf 2 5 www.2.tc.gc.ca/eng/mediaroom/interim-order-restrictingpleasure-craft-navigation-covid19.html

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seventhwavemarine@olypen.com JUNE 2021

Doublehanded DISTANCE FUN RACE (NOT EXACTLY) TO THE STRAITS 2021 The first weekend in May brings Sloop Tavern Yacht Club’s (STYC) Race to the Straits — an extremely popular two-day shorthanded sailing event that usually goes from Shishole to Port Townsend and back. As Justin Wolfe of J/111 Raku says, “There is just nothing else that compares to racing a big fleet of other shorthanded boats.” STYC had to cancel the event last year, and this year's RTTS involved a substitute event with no party on Saturday night. A pretty big fleet of 67 boats spanned 11 classes, including five J/105s. Saturday's race went to Possession Point off of the southeast end of Whidbey Island. It’s a pursuit start for the fleet, but the J/105s all started together with two other boats rating 93. Winds were forecast to be light southerlies with light rain, turning northerly in the afternoon with a big 15-foot ebb tide almost all day. The winds were a bit stronger than forecast with the long run north going pretty smoothly. Among the J/105s, More Jublilee led early and did a masterful job to extend out on the rest of us with Jaded, Corvo, and Peer Gynt all in second place at one time or another. Creative kind of dropped to the rear of our closely packed fleet. The approach to the Possession Point buoy was a little tricky with a couple of knots of current running from east to west. Peer Gynt rounded second followed closely by the others. Creative was first to tack south and worked into a little lead of the pack behind Jubilee heading toward Edmonds seeking some current relief. Before long, the winds started dying and we could see boats piling up at Edmonds, where the countercurrent along the shore ends. When the northerly first started showing, boats had to choose between better winds to the west or tide relief to the east. East appeared to win out. Then it was a jibing battle south with the continuing balance between current relief and wind. Corvo was not alone in the fleet when she touched bottom off of Richmond Beach. Creative and Jaded were trading places throughout the run, with Creative finally getting a little breakaway when Jaded got a wrap on a jibe; but no one could touch Jubilee. 48º NORTH

In Class 10, it was 4.5 hours of sailing with the kite and 30 minutes upwind for Chris and Justin Wolfe on Raku. “There are worse ways to race!” They report, “The last sprint to the finish (about 6 miles) was a drag race with a slightly slower Melges 24 in front of us and a slightly faster Riptide 35 behind us. We didn't win that drag race…. Still a very nice day on the water.” Sunday's forecast was even lighter but with the same big tides and a different course — this time sending fleets down around Elliott Bay. The earliest starters got away in a light easterly that then went west before sort of settling in on a southerly. Once again, there was significant focus on tide relief, especially along the Magnolia shore towards West Point. Rounding the West Point buoy, Jubilee led Creative, Jaded, Peer Gynt and Corvo, though all were close in the fading southerly breeze. We were barely making any headway south against the tide. It took fortitude to hang in there for an extremely long time on port tack to finally get out of some of the current and south enough to make it over near West Seattle and approach Duwamish Head from the west. Jubilee, Jaded, and Corvo were WAY out ahead. We could only see them with binoculars along the West Seattle shoreline. Peer Gynt got flushed backwards towards West Point and Creative finally got some pressure to be able to tack toward the mark from mid channel. The wind shifted a bit more southerly from southeast, setting up a spinnaker reach into Duwamish Head for us on Creative. Our hope now was to reach the halfway point and that the others would not reach the finish. About a mile after the turn at Duwamish, the wind freed enough to set a kite again, which allowed us to reach all the way to the halfway point at Wing Point. Corvo and Jaded were well ahead and nearly up by Alki, but their winds died completely. Meanwhile, our breeze stayed just a bit and we managed to carry through their lee to round Wing Point buoy a few minutes ahead of Jaded. Corvo never got any breeze and took a DNF. No boats in the fleet finished the whole course, though the Wolfe’s J/111 Raku was closest — they estimate they missed completing the full course by about 15 minutes, and were first overall for the weekend. Congratulations to More Jubilee, they were 11th overall and won the J/105 class on both days. Well done! By Al Hughes | Photo courtesy of Sloop Tavern Yacht Club.

JUNE 2021

48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

FUNKY & FUN

VASHON ISLAND RACE

Forty boats took to the waters of Puget Sound for the annual May edition of a 'round Vashon Island race. After an unrelentingly wet and cold first event in Seattle Yacht Club’s Tri Island Series, I imagine I wasn't the only sailor whose gear bag was heavy with extra warm layers when I arrived at the boat for the Vashon circumnavigation. As luck would have it, we wouldn’t need those layers, and were actually in for a real treat of (mostly) glorious late spring racing. The race started in a light but sailable southerly toward the south end of Shilshole Bay. A big left shift made the pin (and probably port tack) the clear choice at the start — you could barely run the line close hauled on starboard. Once the ORC Class in which I was sailing (three TP 52s and the Reichel Pugh 55, Zvi) turned the corner at West Point, we made achingly slow progress toward Alki. In our fleet, TP 52 Smoke and Zvi had better starts and generally more mojo in the light stuff. They extended across Elliott Bay, finding a bit of shore breeze near Alki. The other two TP 52s, Glory and Mist, arrived there later and traded tacks and places a couple of times as they headed southwest around the point; but pretty soon were in glassy waters, trying desperately to avoid seeing 0.00 on the knotmeter. What left the later boats in the ORC fleet in worse shape became evident when the classes behind them started putting up the colorful sails. A surprise convergence zone and northerly had come to mess with the predominant southerly. It was short lived, thankfully; and once the southerly returned, it stayed steady through the rest of the day.

The day got even more pleasant once the spinnakers went up in Colvos Passage. 48º NORTH

Glory and Mist trade tacks off of Alki. Making our way across East Passage toward the Vashon shore, the southerly built and brought 30-degree shifts influenced by the Quartermaster Harbor puffs shooting over the strip of land into Tramp Harbor. "We're reaching. We're beating. Who cares, we're moving in the right direction!" Eventually, we had enough wind to merit a sail change from the #1 to the #2 jib. Nice! There's always a risk of going too close to the beach once you make the turn southwest at Point Robinson... but how far out do you go? Conventional wisdom says, "Not too far." Yet, at least when Glory got there, a starboard tack lift kept going and going, making it tough to head back in. We had beautiful breeze in the mid teens as we cracked off around Tahlequah. We set the #2 spinnaker, and it would stay up for the rest of the day. By the time we were into Colvos, Smoke and Zvi were long gone, and Glory had extended a bit on Mist. The result was that we really were sailing our own race through the storied passage. We were trying to sail fast, but it was a lowkey scenario — and that left a lot of room to just appreciate sailing with your pals through a beautiful channel on a badass boat... in weather that didn't put most of us in shivering misery as it had a few weeks prior. The trip from Point Vashon back to the finish off the Shilshole breakwater followed much of the same pattern. Trim for speed and VMG. Jibe cleanly. Watch the compass, work the shifts and stay in phase. While it didn’t turn out to be a winning effort for our boat, we sailed across the finish line in the late afternoon with shades on, jackets off, and big smiles all around. As Vashon races go… I’ll take it! Congrats to the others across all fleets, and great sailing to those in our class — Smoke (1st place), Zvi (2nd), and Mist (corrected just a couple of minutes behind Glory). By Joe Cline | Photos by Erin Noelle Parker

JUNE 2021

EAST SOUND SPRING REGATTA Santa Cruz 27, Wild Rumpus, drag races with some bigger competition - J/35 Sunshie Girl and J/33 Keet. a venue it is. Rosario Resort and Orcas Island are just great places to be! In addition to being a well run event in a terrific venue, ESSR is a Clean Regatta — and special awards were given to boats that did not bring single-use plastics to the race course. In Division 1, the J/120, Time Bandit, had an outstanding performance, finishing in the top spot for the weekend. In the J/70 fleet, seven boats duked it out all weekend with lots of multiple-lap races and at least two of the boats sailing double handed. In the end, the venerable Keith Whittemore on Furio edged out the Wolfes doublehanding Mossy. In the little boat Division 3, the top three spots were hotly contested and changeable all weekend. Congratulations go to Betsy Wareham winning the weekend on her Martin 242 Purple Martin. Thanks everyone, see you again next year! By Stephanie Campbell | Photo by Arden Rathkopf

Twenty-two boats from around the region converged on Rosario Resort to enjoy great racing in some magnificent liquid sunshine for the East Sound Spring Regatta (ESSR). If there were two things I heard all weekend it was “Wow. It’s so beautiful here!” and “Brrrrr! I’m freezing, close the hatch!” Charley Rathkopf and his crew got off 10 races for three divisions over two days, and did it flawlessly with thought toward fair races for the fleets and lunch breaks for the crews. A light-to-moderate southerly was predicted all weekend with a 100% chance of freezing rain. On Saturday morning, the local snails were having a party on the rain-drenched lawn as we met for the skippers meeting. We braved the elements and got the first race right off on schedule in an early morning northerly, but a southerly was on its way. We took a short break and all found our way to stay warm — the crew of Keet put on an impressive dance party. Before we knew it, the southerly had filled in to stay for the day. The starts and mark roundings were critical, the tide was pretty negligible, and the J/70s were literally everywhere you turned. We had a solid 15-knot breeze that kept us in the #3 all day on Sunday. Among the many compliments shared with Orcas Island Yacht Club, the greatest of them was centered around how great of

NORTHWEST

RIGGING

Welcome to Race Week! We offer great rigging for fast boats. We are here to support sailors before, during and after Race Week.

Come check out our new retail store and expanded rope wall.

360.293.1154 • www.nwrigging.com • info@nwrigging.com • 620 30th Street Anacortes, WA 48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

Photo by: John Guillote

CLASSIFIEDS $

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1940 SCHUMAN SINGLE HANDLER YAWL Bittersweet is a 35 ft. yawl built in 1940 at Graves Shipyard in Marblehead, Mass. She is mahogany on oak frames, original spruce spars. Closed-cooled Atomic four aux. Same owner for 25 years. Currently in dry storage at Deer Harbor Boatworks, Orcas Island, WA. Sails in good condition. Needs some TLC but basically sound. Contact David (208) 610-3077. $10,000

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48º NORTH

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NEWPORT 28 1979 Newport 28 located in Port Townsend Bay. Newer sails and canvas, 11hp Universal diesel, chartplotter, depth, solar charger, rigged for solo sailing. Good condition. Contact: rbrandes@magnoliahg.com. $9,000.

2014 CATALINA 445 Shoal Keel – HIN: CTYK0088G314 Forever More is a Beautiful, Well Equipped, Lovingly Maintained example of perhaps Catalina’s finest design. Moored in Portland Oregon. View full details and numerous pictures available at http://forevermore-c445.com Call 503.780.8582 $325,000.

9,0

18 FOOT CAPE COD CATBOAT 18' Marshall Marine Catboat. Sanderling model. Built 1966. In great shape. 2014 5 HP Mercury outboard. Length 18'2", Beam 8’6", Draft 19" with the board up. Gaff Rig. Sail area 253 sq ft. Easy boat to sail with its cat rig. Displacement 2200 lb, ballast 500 lb. Contact (206) 660-5766 or anthony.john.wilson@gmail.com. $9,000

PASSPORT 40 World capable cruiser. Cutter rigged, oversized rigging, large sail inventory, Aries windvane, autopilot, Yanmar engine, watermaker, Furuno radar, 3 burner stove/oven, Dickenson heater, ICOM HF, VHF. 2018, power train refurbished. Orcas Island, WA. svlandsend@yahoo.com or 360-632-8896. $125,000. $135,00 if broker involved

1976 VALIANT 40 Bob Perry’s first design, the Valiant is a tried-and-true bluewater cruiser. Halcyon (hull #136) is in great condition with upgraded systems and is fully outfitted for cruising. New Beta Marine 50hp engine (500 hours), max prop, new sails (2015) new batteries (2021), Monitor windvane, SSB, solar panels, wind generator and more. She is currently in French Polynesia, waiting to safely and comfortably carry her new owners anywhere in the world! Contact: Becca Guillote becca.guillote@gmail.com. $72,000

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WESTSAIL 32 New engine, tanks, sails, head, roller furling. Many extras. Contact (206) 290-9660. $35,000

1986 CAVALIER 39 SLOOP BUILT IN NEW ZEALAND Sloop, tiller steering. LOA 39 LWL 29.6, fiberglass reinforced hull, 120% Genoa, spinnaker, mainsail, 3 anchors with chain and rode, Monitor windvane, auto pilot, Isuzo 55hp diesel. Cruise ready. One off interior design with table on bulkhead and captain’s bed. Includes freezer and frig. Contact Bob at (510) 421-1768. $75,000

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MILLER MARINE 41FT DECK SALON Miller Marine Deck Salon • Full electronics, 12 inch Raymarine touch screen chart plotter, radar and auto pilot • 8.5 ft dinghy, 2.5 hp Suzuki motor • Propane gimbaled stove, refridge and freezer • Diesel stove heat, berths for 6 , varnished teak interior • Roller furling genoa and spinnaker, composite main, dyneema running rigging, Perkins 4-108, 4-blade feathering variprop. Contact Bernard 360-840-9510. $92,000

JUNE 2021

BOATS FOR SALE $

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1977 C&C 29 CRUISER/RACER S/V Whisper: refitted after 2017 with new sails, winches, standing and running rigging, electronics, LED cabin lights, stereo, and many other improvements to put her in excellent shape for day sailing and short cruises. She sails fast and can be easily single or double-handed. Very clean and well cared for. The engine is an inboard diesel. Starts easily and runs well. Propane heater and stove. Email jeremy@gunix.net. $17,500

189

BOATS FOR SALE

, 50

17,

TARTAN 34 FOR SALE Thunderstruck 10kw electric motor installed with 100 kw LFPO4 battery bank with Orion battery management system. Raymarine Chart plotter, autopilot and actuator. Depth sounder. New roller furling 135% jib (2016). Lazy jacks 2016. Natures Head 2016 (composting). West Marine inflatable and elect. Plough anchor with 200 feet of chain rode on manual windlass. Fortress anchor with 200 foot nylon rode. Contact Harley A Clark at clarkharley37@gmail.com or 425.280.9948. $17,000

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EQUIPMENT FOR SALE

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JEANNEAU 45.2 FULL BOAT COVER Jeanneau 45.2 and 45.1 full boat cover by Lohmann Covers. Used 3 seasons from November to April and is in excellent condition. Assembly instructions are included plus 3 cover storage bags. No sand bags used. Cover has a draw cord around the hull that holds the cover down. Internal poles create a tent so you can walk around. Contact Robert at (360) 306-0953.$3,500

GEAR, CHARTS, BOOKS Jordan Series Drogue, Gale Rider, Freiberger Sextant, Collision Bandage, All Charts and many Guides Seattle to Panama, Cornell Ocean Atlas. Some or all. Inquire. Contact: Ken Pickard - kenpickard28@gmail.com 360-632-9266. $3,600

BOAT SLIPS 2000 SIRIUS 32 DS The only one of its kind in North America. Refitted 2020/21. Only 840 hours on fully service Volvo 2030 engine. 600 ah lithium batteries, 150 watts solar, stripped hull, new five coats epoxy with three coats bottom paint. Induction stove with convection microwave. 3000 amp inverter. Diesel heating, new cushions and upholstery, dual helms, auto pilot, dual chart plotters, AIS, radar, much more! Contact Don at Donbgoldberg@gmail.com or Call 541.621.3797. $189,500

9,0

46' GAFF RIGGED SCHOONER The S.V. Isa Rana is a 1984 46ft steel hulled gaff rigged schooner, designed by J. Benford and handmade by the Benford Design Group. Currently moored in Puerto Adventuras, Quintana Roo, this sleek vessel is the perfect escape for a sailing enthusiast with taste for tropical waters. For the complete listing, contact information, and many more photos, please visit www. schooner-isarana.com Contact John & Nicky Allison at njallison@frontier.com. $80,000

00 $

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0/m

50' SLIP - SAN JUAN ISLAND 50' slip available immediately on San Juan Island (Friday Harbor). Hard to find location and slip. Great location, just 5 minute walk from ferry terminal in Friday Harbor. Longterm lease possibility. Photos available on request. First and Last month rent required. $650 per month. Contact Mark at scheerlaw10@gmail.com $650/month

CLUBS 2020 JEANNEAU SUN ODYSSEY 410 3 Cabin / 2 Head, Furling Mast with Dacron Mainsail, Furling Genoa, 45 hp Yanmar with 93.2 Hours, Includes the following packages: Excellence Pack, Electronics Ocean Pack, Audio Entertainment Pack, Downwind Pack. Additional Upgrades: Additional 53 Gallon Water Tank, Grey Cedar Interior, Dark Oak Laminate Floorboards, Upholstry Ambiance Leather ”Weiss”, Steering Wheel, Winch and Cockpit Table Covers, Cockpit Cushions, Retractable Bow Thruster, 115v Microwave, 2000 watt Invertor, Diesel Forced Air Heating System, Deluxe Folding Salon Table w/Telescoping Legs, Raymarine VHF Remote in the Cockpit, Electric Quite-Flush Toilets, Teak Cockpit Floor, Iversons Custom Dodger, Bimini, Connector and Window Covers. Transferable 7 Year Structural, 5 Year Blister and 3 Year General Warranty, Like New, Located in Anacortes, Washington at Skyline Marina. Contact Jeff Zumwalt at zumwalt.jeff@gmail.com or Call 503.560.8889. $379,000

48º NORTH

Cal 2-29 Cruising Sailboat

The Cal 2-29 is both comfortable and stable, with upgrades for more comfortable for cruisuing. Hull with fin keel and spade rudder is in excellent shape. Standing and running rigging in good shape. $16,900.

(360) 503-8874 | kim@nwmaritime.org

SELL YOUR BOAT IN THE 48° NORTH CLASSIFIEDS! CLASSIFIEDS PRICE PER MONTH: $25 - ONLINE | $45 - ONLINE + PRINT

FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT 48north.com/submit-classified

SLOOP TAVERN YACHT CLUB 2442 NW Market St. #94, Seattle, WA 98107 “Established in Ballard since 1976” $90 Annual Dues - Reciprocal Moorages High quality sailing at the lowest cost For more info call Mike at (206) 265-9459

1945

2021

The Best Racing in the Northwest • On the Lake or Sound • Active Cruising • Reciprocal Rights Corinthian Yacht Club of Seattle 7755 Seaview Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98117 Phone (206) 789-1919 for information www.cycseattle.org

JUNE 2021

CLUBS

MARINE EQUIPMENT

MARINAS Gateway to the San Juans 6327 34’ Seaview NW - 50’ slipsAve for lease/purchase Seattle, WA 98107 Free Wifi, Pumpouts & Showers, Fuel, Store /Café

FREE unlimited day sailing on the club boats.

(360) 371-0440 • semiahmoomarina.com

• Sail on Puget Sound out of Shilshole Bay Marina • Full Service Sailing Club/Pro Shop/Brokerage • All the advantages of ownership w/out the hassles

Phone (206) 789-7350 Fax (206) 789-6392 LIBERTY BAY MARINA Email calla@48north.com

206-782-5100

40’ - 48’ - 60’ open slips. Great location in Poulsbo, WA Restrooms, Showers.

www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com 7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

360-779-7762 or 360-509-0178

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES MARINE EQUIPMENT

ANACORTES MARINA

Annual moorage available now: 32’ to 80’ Open and 32’ to 60’ Covered slips. In town rental slips w/security gates, mini storage, full service boat yard, fuel dock & pump out on site. Anacortesmarina.com or (360) 293-4543

• 30+ years of experience •

Full service rig shop serving the Puget Sound www.taylorsails.com erictaylorsails@gmail.com

PICK UP AND DELIVERY AVAILABLE FREE ESTIMATES FAST, QUALITY WORK 5015 15TH AVE. NW, SEATTLE

(206) 783-1696 WWW.MACTOPS.COM

Cliff Hennen - (206) 718-5582

Distributor of HYPERVENT, a woven polymer bonded to a breathable fabric to fight on-board condensation and mold. The 3/4-inch polymer loops will not compress, allowing for plenty of dry air to circulate wherever it's placed. • HELM CHAIRS • GALLERY CUSHIONS • MATTRESSES • BUNK CURTAINS • EQUIPMENT COVERS

www.evergreenrigging.com - (360) 207-5016

V E SS E L M OV I N G

KEEPS MATTRESSES CLEAN & SANITARY–ALWAYS STAYS TUCKED

No ocean too big, no trip too small, 6327 NW no ship too Seaview large, noAve mast too tall, sail or power, move them all!!! Seattle,we WA 98107 When you are ready, give us a call. Professional service since 1967. Phone (206) 789-7350 CappyTom@aol.com Fax (206) 789-6392 (206) 390-1596 email jen@48north.com

CHEAPER THAN CUSTOM SHEETS–FORM FITS ANY MATTRESS

Nancy Anderson - Seattle 206/669-0329 • sureritesigns@gmail.com www.sureritesigns.com

48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

1.5 inch =$60/month

WLB

INSTRUCTION

Tethys

Whomeport A T E RforL helmsman I N E B trawlers OATS ®

Offshore Sailing for Women

WLB Brokerage boatshedseattle . boatshedtacoma boatshedeverett . boatshedporttownsend SEATTLE - 206 282 0110 | PORT TOWNSEND - 425 246 5101

Nancy Erley, Instructor 206.789.5118

nancy@tethysoffshore.com www.tethysoffshore.com

View our entire inventory of boats for sale at waterlineboats.com

1986 KNIGHT & CARVER 67 MOTORYACHT

1984 REDUCED LOWLAND 471 LR TRAWLER

2022 HELMSMAN TRAWLERS 43E

1976 GIORGETTI & MAGRINI 45 KETCH

• Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons • Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons • Spinnaker, Intro and Advance Racing Classes Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear

206-782-5100 www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com 7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

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ADVERTISE with 48° NORTH CLASSIFIEDS PRICE PER MONTH: $25 - ONLINE | $45 - ONLINE + PRINT 75 words, 5 photos with online, 1 photo with print PURCHASE ONLINE: 48north.com/submit-classified BUSINESS CLASSIFIEDS: Kachele Yelaca at kachele@48north.com

48º NORTH

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Port of Bremerton.............................................33 Port of Friday Harbor.......................................19 Port of Port Townsend.....................................29 Port Townsend Rigging....................................37 Race Week PNW.................................................. 9 Rubicon Yachts..................................................17 Sail Northwest..................................................... 2 Sailrite................................................................... 7 Samson Rope.....................................................12 Scan Marine........................................................29 Schilling Cider...................................................15 Seattle Sailing Club............................................ 3 Seattle Yachts....................................................51 Seventh Wave Marine......................................41 Signature Yachts................................................55 Swiftsure Yachts................................................53 Ullman Sails.......................................................19 Washington Department of Ecology............33 Washington Sea Grant ....................................43 Waterline Boats.................................................49 West Yachts........................................................54 Yachtfinders/ Windseakers.............................52 JUNE 2021

[ 58’ & 64’ F LY B R I D G E ]

[ 37 XC CROSS CABIN ]

[ SHADOW 900 ]

[ PARDO 43 ]

bespoke brokerage & yacht sales Seattle | 901 Fairview Avenue North, Suite A170, 206 949 2270 San Diego | 2330 Shelter Island Dr., Suite 105, 619 222 9899 Flagship Office Newport Beach | 2507 West Coast Highway, Suite 101, 619 709 0697 Sausalito | 298 Harbor Drive @ Clipper Yacht Harbor, 415 887 9347

JeffBrownYachts.com

1997 J/Boats J/160 Libra 48º NORTH $579,000

2011 Sabre 456 MKII $499,000

2017 Bavaria Virtess 420 Flybridge 2019 Axopar 28 Cabin JUNE $150,000

50$515,000

2021

With offices in British Columbia, Washington, California, Maryland, Florida, & the Philippines

info@seattleyachts.com

844.692.2487

www.SeattleYachts.com

Seattle Yachts is Your West Coast Hanse, Tartan, Moody, & Dehler Yachts Dealer & Broker!

2021 Hanse 458 - On Order to Sea�le, WA

2021 Hanse 418 - On Order to Sea�le, WA

2021 Tartan 395 - On Order to San Diego, CA

2021 Hanse 388 - On Order to Anacortes, WA

2020 Tartan 365 - In Stock Anacortes, WA - NEW MODEL

2019 Tartan 345 - In Stock

Cust. Carb. Marten Marine 65' $795,000

2018 Hanse 548 54' $746,498 Kenyon Mar�n 858.775.5937

Rob Fuller 207.233.8846

ANACORTES 28th & R Avenue 719 28th St, Ste B Anacortes, WA 98221 (360) 299-0777

48º NORTH

Anacortes, WA

SEATTLE Shilshole Marina 7001 Seaview Ave NW, Suite 150 Sea�le, WA 98117 (206) 789-8044

JUNE 2021

Professionally staffed!

Open 6 days, Sun by appt.

(619) 224-2349 • Fax (619) 224-4692 • 2330 Shelter Island Dr. #207 San Diego, CA 92106 www.yachtfinders.biz • Toll-Free (866) 341-6189 • info@yachtfinders.biz

42' PEARSON 424 ’80 �� $89,000

Li New sti ng

LI NEW ST IN G

A Leader in Brokerage Sales on the West Coast “WHIFFLER” Overly strong built boat with the space to spread out. Stiff in a breeze and surprisingly quick. Only 45 hours on new engine.

47' CT 47 ’81�� $69,000 42' CATALINA 42 MK II ’02�� $145,000 “BLACK SWAN” Well-found, sturdy cruising boat with the ability to travel long distances at good speed and in comfort.

Re du ce d

42' LANCER 42 ’81 �� $59,900

LI NEW ST IN G

“ELAINE” Incredibly roomy and very livable with large rooms, spacious cockpit, 6’6” headroom and a proven cruising track record.

39' FREEDOM ’85 �� $59,000 33' HOBIE 33 ’83 ��$19,500

34' HUNTINGFORD TRUE NORTH 34 CUTTER ’74 �� $39,500

“THETIS” Heavy displacement hull with good sails and cutter rig. Ideal for long distance cruising. New diesel engine. In Olympia, WA.

48º NORTH

“ALOHA R&R” Well-equipped with watermaker, air conditioning, furling sails. Generous interior space. Easy to sail.

“ENTROPHY” Sturdy lightweight hull “MAYHEM” Highly modified for offshore for great performance. Sail this cat racing. Open transom, reinforced ketch rig with minimal crew. Call to see! bulkheads, and much more.

THINKING OF SELLING YOUR BOAT? LET US HELP! 30' ISLANDER SLOOP 30 ’71 ��$14,750

“RANCHO RELAXO” A boat for club racing, cruising to Catalina or day sailing. Many up-grades and large sail inventory.

Power or Sail, we have buyers waiting! Call: 619.224.2349 or email: info@yachtfinders.biz Call our Pacific NW area agent Dan: 360.867.1783

JUNE 2021

quality yachts from swiftsureyachts.com Popular with cruisers for excellent performance and handling, the J/42 is a well-regarded and proven model from J Boats’ ocean cruising series. A trademark Rod Johnstone design, this superb racer-cruiser is at home at sea or on the race course. The hull is kept light and powerful for speed with narrow ends to ensure a pleasurable ride underway when a passage gets lumpy. With a classic profile and two-cabin, two-head layout, this model’s characteristics of strength, stability, ease of handling, and comfort when sailing make it a yacht for all sailors. Merlin was purchased in St. Petersburg, Florida in 2017 to take a year cruise in New England and the Caribbean before returning to the Pacific Northwest by land in summer of 2018. During the preparation for this family’s adventure of a lifetime and throughout their ownership, many upgrades were completed to keep Merlin safe and reliable. – k e n m onagh a n

Merlin 1996 J Boats J/42 $144,900

Camper & Nicholson’s 48 • 1974 • $140,000

54 48 48 46 46 44 44 42 41 40 40 39 38

Lyman Morse 44 • 1982 • $249,900

price reduced

Sunward 48 • 1983 • $249,000

two hylas 49 models

Morris 45 • 2000 • $450,000

Frers 64 • 1978 • $295,000

Hylas 49 • 2001 • $399,000 (pictured) Hylas 49 • 1999 • $399,000

Tashiba 31 • 1988 • $115,000

Hinckley Sou’wester 42 • 1984 • $245,000

Ker 46 • 2006 • $279,000

Hylas Waterline Chris White Atlantic Swan Nordic RS Norseman 447 Gozzard Bavaria Jeanneau 409 Bavaria Cruiser Passport Swan 391 Baltic DP

2000 Inquire 1997 $299,000 2010 $565,000 1985 $160,000 1992 $239,000 1984 $239,000 1996 $320,000 2017 349,000CAD 2012 $229,000 2013 $130,000 1987 $127,000 1983 $115,000 1983 $90,000

38 38 37 36 35 34 34 33 32 30 30 28

Hunter Ohlson Jeanneau 379 Tashiba One Design 35 Webbers Cove Webbers Cove Beneteau 331 Seaward 32 RK J Boats J/92 Henderson Cutwater

2006 149,000CAD 1984 $115,000 2012 $178,950 1986 $129,000 1999 $59,000 1966 $79,000 1970 Inquire 2002 $67,500 2013 $154,900 1993 $35,000 1997 $32,900 2017 223,800CAD

FIVE LOCATIONS TO SERVE WEST COAST YACHTSMEN Seattle (Main Office) Sidney, BC Bainbridge Island Anacortes San Francisco Bay Area

SwiftsureYachts

www.swiftsureyachts.com 206.378.1110 | info@swiftsureyachts. com 2540 Westlake Ave. N., Ste. A Seattle WA 98109 facebook.com/swiftsureyachts

NEW SAILING YACHTS FOR WORLD CRUISING 48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

40' HINCKLEY BERMUDA 1970

West Yachts is Selling Boats!! Quality Sail and Power Listings Wanted.

SAIL: 47' Beneteau 473 2004 45' Hardin XL 1983 44' Spencer 1330 1979 43' Irwin Mk lll 1987 42' Beneteau 423 2006 41' Hunter Deck Salon 2006

44' SPENCER 1330 1979

41' Morgan 1981 40' Hinckley Bermuda 1970 38' Ericson 38-200 1988 37' Cooper Seabird Motorsailer 1978 37' Banjer Motor Sailor 1970 37' Tayana Cutter 1983 36' Pearson 36-2 1986 36' Islander Freeport 1979 Major Refit! 33' Wauquiez Gladiateur 1983 32' Catalina 320 1994

41' HUNTER DECK SALON 2006

32' Fuji Ketch 1978 20' Ultimate U20 Class Day Sailor 1998 & Tailer

POWER: 72' Monk McQueen Cockpit Motor Yacht 1977 - Totally refurbished!! 40' Ponderosa 1985 34' C&C Nelson Tayler Design Admiral's Lauch 1982 26' Nordic Tug 1984 24' Maxum 2400 SCR 1995

36' PEARSON 36-2 1986

info@west-yachts.com 1019 Q Ave. Suite D, Anacortes, WA

54 (360) 299-2526 • www.west-yachts.com

48º NORTH

JUNE 2021

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Beneteau Oceanis 46.1

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B o a t s a r e s e l l i n g . We n e e d l i s t i n g s !

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Pre-owned Boats

Fountaine Pajot Astréa 42

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Beneteau Oceanis 38.1

Beneteau Oceanis 30.1

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WWW.SIGNATURE-YACHTS.COM

Beneteau Oceanis 51.1

What’s Happening

JOIN US!

All Fleet Rendezvous • in Poulsbo • July 16-18, 2021

49' Hunter 49 ‘10........................................... $249,900

38' C&C 38 ‘86 .............................................. $52,900

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51' Beneteau 51.1 ‘21 ................................ Arriving Sold 50' Amel 50 ‘20 ................................................ SOLD 46' Beneteau 46.1 ’21 ................................ Arriving Sold 44' Jeanneau 44 DS ’16.................................. $319,000 43' Jeanneau 43 DS ‘05 ............................Sale Pending 42' Beneteau 423 ’04 ..................................... $149,900 Fountaine Pajot Astrea ’20 ..........................Sale Pending 35' Beneteau Oceanis 351 ................................. $59,900

35' Beneteau First 35...................................... $140,000

38' Hunter 386 ‘03 ..........................................$79,900

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38’ Hunter 386 ‘02 ............................................. SOLD 38' Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 ‘21 ....................Arriving SOLD 38' Hunter 386 ‘10 ............................................. SOLD 35' Beneteau 35.1 ’21 ................................ Arriving Sold 35' Catalina 350 ’03 ........................................$97,500 34' Hunter 340 ‘02 ............................................. SOLD 28' North Pacific Pilothouse ’11 ........................ $134,500 25' Island Packet 350 '01 ................................. $129,000

25' Beneteau First 25 ‘15 ................................. $55,000

25' Harbor 25 ‘09 ...........................................$39,900

2476 Westlake Ave N. #101, Seattle, WA 98109 • (206) 284-9004 J U N E 55 Open Monday - Saturday 10:00am - 5:00pm • Sunday by appointment

48º NORTH

2021

MARINE SERVICENTER Serving Northwest Boaters since 1977 NORTH AMERICAN DEALER OF THE YEAR 2020 • 2019 • 2016

NEW BOATS ARE SELLING FAST – LIMITED INVENTORY ARRIVING – MODELS AVAILABLE TO VIEW NOW BY APPOINTMENT!

2021 Lagoon 42 #587 $674,580 - SAVE $28,440

Arrives August

In Stock Ready Now!

2022 Jeanneau 410 #75936: $358,703 - SAVE $36,785

2022 Jeanneau 349 #75971 : $199,840- SAVE $29,049 Arrives August

Arrives November

2022 Jeanneau 440 #75456: $419,840 - SAVE $53,625

2022 Jeanneau 490 #76283 $559,856 - SAVE $38,426

6 Sold!

All New!

Come See!

NOW IS A GREAT TIME TO SELL! The market is red hot!

Tim Jorgeson Jeff Carson

48º NORTH

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36' Island Packet 360 ’12�� $205,500 li ne

34' Jeanneau 349 ’20 �� $189,500

34' Olson 34 ’90 �� $54,500

Seattle Sales Office & Marina

Bellingham Sales Office

206-323-2405

360-770-0180

2442 Westlake Ave. N.

Dan Krier

42' SK 42 Pilothouse ’06��$109,500 n

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li ne

37' Island Packet 370 ‘04�� $209,000

34' C&C 34+ ’90 ��$82,000

47' Vagabond Ketch ‘83��$184,000

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39' Nauticat PH ‘98��$224,500 g

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35' Ta Shing Baba 35 ’85 �� $69,500

St o o o Se

44' Nauticat MS Ketch ‘80 ��$185,000 44’ Nauticat MS Sloop ’85 ��$149,500

44' Jeanneau SO 44 ’91 ��$119,000

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41' Seafinn 41 PH ’89 �� $124,500

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50' Beneteau ’00 �� $174,500 ch 2 t

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46' Lagoon 46 ’20 ��$989,500

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51' Alden Skye ‘80��$129,500 Pe Sa

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51' Beneteau Cyclades ‘06 ��$199,900

2022 Lagoon 40, Shown By Appt.

2022 Island Packet 42 Motor Sailer

2022 Jeanneau Yacht 51

2022 Jeanneau Yacht 60

See your boat listed here.

WE GET RESULTS 66' CNB 66 ‘21 �� Arriving SOLD 62' Lagoon 620 ‘20 ��SOLD 58' Jeanneau Yacht ‘18 ��SOLD 53' Jeanneau Yacht ‘15 ��SOLD 52' Island Packet 485 ‘10��SOLD 50' Lagoon 500 ‘12 ��SOLD 49' Jeanneau 490p ‘22 � Arriving SOLD 49' Jeanneau 490 ‘20/’21 �� 4 SOLD 45' Hunter 450 CC ’98 ��SOLD 45' Jeanneau 45 DS ’08 ��SOLD 44' Jeanneau 440 ‘22 �� Arriving SOLD 44' Jeanneau 440 ‘21 ��2 SOLD 44' Jeanneau 44i ‘11 ��SOLD 44' Catalina 440 DS ‘05 ��SOLD 43' Jeanneau 43 DS ‘05/’06 ��2 SOLD 41' Island Packet ’07��SOLD 41' Jeanneau 410 ’22 �� 4 Arrive SOLD 41' Jeanneau 410 ‘20/’21 �� 12 Sold 41' Jeanneau 41 DS ’14 ��SOLD 41' Burnham & Crouch ‘63��$69,500 40' Jeanneau SO 40 ‘01��SOLD 40' Jeanneau SO 40�3 ‘07��SOLD 40' J/120 ’01��SOLD 38' Island Packet 38 ‘90/’92��SOLD 37' Jeanneau SO 37 ‘01��SOLD 36' Bavaria 36 ‘03 ��SOLD 35' Trident Voyager ‘78 �� Sale Pending 34' Jeanneau 349 ‘22 �� 3 Arrive SOLD 34' Jeanneau 34�2 ‘00 ��SOLD 33' Nauticat MS ‘85 ��SOLD 33' C&C 99 ‘05 ��SOLD 32' Hunter 326 ’02 ��SOLD

1801 Roeder Ave. Ste. 128

info@marinesc.com56• www.marinesc.com

Greg Farah

Curt Bagley Jon Knowles

JUNE 2021

June 2021 48° North

Articles inside

Race to the Straits

Kenai Peninsula Discovered

Tales of the Northwest Passage: What’s in a Fish?

Sail to Surf

Tech Talk with SeaBits

Diesel Deep Dive