O u r A S A 1 1 4 C r u i s i n g C a t a m a r a n C o u r s e i s
l e d b y c e r t i f i e d i n s t r u c t o r s w i t h y e a r s o f
e x p e r i e n c e o n b o t h c a t a m a r a n s a n d
m o n o h u l l s . T h e y p r o v i d e h a n d s - o n t r a i n i n g
a n d p e r s o n a l i z e d f e e d b a c k t o e n s u r e y o u
m a s t e r t h e e s s e n t i a l s .
C o m p r e h e n s i v e C u r r i c u l u m
T h i s c o u r s e c o v e r s e v e r y t h i n g f r o m c a t a m a r a n
s t r u c t u r e a n d c o m p o n e n t s , p e r f o r m a n c e u n d e r
s a i l & p o w e r , b o a t s y s t e m s , s e a m a n s h i p a n d
s a f e t y , h e a v y w e a t h e r o p e r a t i o n , a n d
r o u n d e d e d u c a t i o n i n c a t a m a r a n s a i l i n g .
e m e r g e n c y r e s p o n s e , g i v i n g y o u a w e l l -
H a n d s - O n E x p e r i e n c e
L o c a t e d i n S h i l s h o l e M a r i n a , o u r d o c k s f a c e
t h e g o r g e o u s O l y m p i c m o u n t a i n r a n g e W e
o f f e r l e s s o n s f o r a l l s a i l o r s , f r o m b e g i n n e r s t o
e x p e r t s C o m e v i s i t u s t o l e a r n m o r e a b o u t
c l a s s e s a n d m e m b e r s h i p , o r b r o w s e o u r P r o
S h o p !
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Cruising
The
Joe Cline
COLUMNS
Sharing
Finding
What
ON THE COVER: Some terrific sailing aboard Saga 35 Engadine on the way to Winter Cove. Cover photo by Joe Cline.
Background photo by Joe Cline.
Editor
THE SEASON FOR LEARNING
A couple weeks ago, I sat on a yacht club lawn in a white Adirondack chair and watched as my boys and the rest of the summer sailing campers in their weeklong class put away boats. Porter, our oldest at 11, helped fold the sails from a Club 420 that he’d sailed on. His younger brother at 9, Magnus, was called to assist in dragging a Sunfish up into the storage area.
I’d intentionally arrived early for pickup to get a glimpse into the controlled chaos that is summer sailing camp. Twenty-four kids of various ages were being wrangled by capable and patient coaches, doing their best to get all the loose ends finished for the day and ready for the next. The job they were doing was quite admirable.
When class was dismissed, the boys ran to me and excitedly gushed about their day on the water and what they were learning. Sailing together, they’d finished with three firsts and a fourth place in the afternoon races, and they couldn’t wait to come back the next day. It was a proud dad moment, indeed.
While I was waiting for them, though, I couldn’t help but think about how much I enjoy the summer sailing season because it provides so much on the water learning and fun. Of course kids’ sailing camps are a huge part of that educational experience in the summer, but it’s also the time when adult learning opportunities are thriving as well. That learning is often facilitated in the formal setting of a classroom and then out on the water with a certified instructor, yet, it doesn’t necessarily have to be.
Oftentimes, if you already have some sailing experience, learning can be done in an informal setting by getting on a boat that provides a stark contrast from the one you normally sail. On page 32, you’ll read a great case study in this by Tacoma liveaboard Samantha McLenachen. With fewer opportunities to get their home off the dock this summer, she and her husband purchased and renovated a C-Lark 14 and have had a blast learning how the new-to-them boat sails and how it differs from their larger 43-footer. Shifting from cruising to day sailing has been, in her words, “The adventure I didn’t know I needed.”
Along with a variety of boats, putting yourself in different situations on the water can be an education in and of itself, too. It’s said that no two days on the water are the same and, when it comes to cruising adventures, that sentiment can certainly be applied to annual summer cruises. Each one is different.
48° North Managing Editor, Joe Cline, learned this lesson again on this year’s 48° North/Ullman Sails Cruising Rally. Starting on page 36, Joe regales us with the tale of this year’s misfortunes as the rally kicked off, and then how the fleet pushed on and made the best of their remaining time together. Part of the point of the yearly rally is to facilitate learning in a group setting, and they certainly got their share of that while cruising the San Juan and Gulf islands this year!
As a sailing instructor and coach for over 20 years, I’ve come to truly love the many ways that this lifestyle and sport can be taught. Whether it’s starting in small boats at a young age and working your way up, taking keelboat classes as an adult, or simply finding your way onto a friend or acquaintance’s boat for an afternoon that suddenly sparks a fire to find out more, there’s a lifetime of learning to be had on sailboats. No matter which way your sailing education takes you, getting out on the water with family and friends, and having fun under sail, is what it’s all about.
Fair Winds,
Volume XLIV, Number 2, September 2024 (206) 789-7350
info@48north.com | www.48north.com
Publisher Northwest Maritime
Managing Editor Joe Cline joe@48north.com
Editor Andy Cross andy@48north.com
Associate Editor Deborah Bach
Designer Rainier Powers rainier@48north.com
Advertising Sales Ryan Carson ryan@48north.com
Classifieds classads48@48north.com
Photographer Jan Anderson
48° North is published as a project of Northwest Maritime in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery.
Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628
48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best!
We are not responsible for unsolicited materials. Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor.
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Anchor in depths of at least 25 feet when boating in the San Juan Islands. Anchors do not hold well in eelgrass, and they damage the habitat of crabs, salmon, herring, and more!
Download a free eelgrass depth map to help guide where you anchor!
Friends of the San Juans
Maps, apps, and more at SANJUANS.ORG/greenboating
Address Label on 48° North
Hi Joe,
Great magazine for the PNW sailing folks and what is happening at Northwest Maritime Center here in Port Townsend.
I’m also writing to inquire why the address label and the permit label are where they are on the cover of the magazine, as they always seem to be the worst place regarding the cover design and photograph. Can this be changed, or is it a USPS requirement that includes the position?
I can’t imagine I am the only one who finds this extremely irritating. So many great photos are ruined by these labels placed right over the boats being featured!
Model Shown Beta 38
Engineered to be Serviced Easily!
Beta Marine West (Distributor) 400 Harbor Dr, Sausalito, CA 94965 415-332-3507
Pacific Northwest Dealer Network
Emerald Marine Anacortes, WA • 360-293-4161 www.emeraldmarine.com
Oregon Marine Industries Portland, OR • 503-702-0123 info@betamarineoregon.com
Access Marine Seattle, WA • 206-819-2439 info@betamarineengines.com www.betamarineengines.com
Sea Marine Port Townsend, WA • 360-385-4000
info@betamarinepnw.com www.betamarinepnw.com
Deer Harbor Boatworks Deer Harbor, WA • 844-792-2382 customersupport@betamarinenw.com www.betamarinenw.com
If placement is dictated by the USPS, is it possible to change the cover’s layout to provide for these labels in their specific locations and reduce the layout area for the featured photograph and the list of featured articles, so they are not covered up by labels?
Thanks for your time,
Les Schnick
Response from the printer:
Yes, the USPS dictates where the label has to be. The only way around this is to put them all into envelopes. We don’t generally label over an advertisement because they get cranky because it’s paid for. The only other place we can put it would be the back side and it would be in the lower righthand corner if you want to leave it blank. Thanks.
Please Fly Your Courtesy Flag!
Hi 48° North,
I am a Canadian boater and was quite surprised recently to find six out of eight American boats did not have courtesy flags flying in one Canadian anchorage we were visiting. In the 50 years we have been traveling to the U.S., we would never not fly an American flag as courtesy. The show of respect for the country you’re traveling in seems to be on a downward slide among American pleasure boaters. You might want to advise your readers on this courtesy.
Craig Meredith
Praise for Three Sheets Northwest
Wow, Marty! I just read your article in the August issue. Bravo! Fantastic writing. It felt like we were with you on your journey. You captured that spirit of the balance of solitude and cross-cultural adventure. Loved it!
Jan Fite
on a San Juan Island Adventure aboard our Hanse and Beneteau sailboats based out of beautiful Fidalgo Bay, Anacortes, Washington. Achieve your American Sailing 101, 103, and 104 certifications with us this fall! We have open spaces in our Cruise N Learn courses September and October, and also have room in our ASA 101-106 courses throughout the remaining 2024 sailing season. We run ASA instructor clinics throughout the year.
News from Northwest Maritime
48° North has been published by the nonprofit Northwest Maritime since 2018. We are continually amazed and inspired by the important work of our colleagues and organization, and dedicate this page to sharing more about these activities with you.
WOMEN BOATBUILDERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD GATHER AT THE PORT TOWNSEND WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL
The Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival continues to evolve each year, with inventive and exciting opportunities to bring together people in the wooden boat community. At this year’s festival, Women in Boatbuilding (WIBB) and Port Townsend’s Women of the Working Waterfront (WOWW) are connecting to recognize, inspire, and celebrate women in the maritime industry.
Women in Boatbuilding is a thriving international community created to support and inspire women working in boatbuilding and related trades. Initially started as an Instagram account, WIBB quickly grew into an influential leader in the maritime industry throughout the United Kingdom and beyond, and the group’s directors will be presenting at the festival.
WIBB Founder Belinda Joslin highlights the importance of visibility and representation in the industry. “One challenge that I faced was initially not considering boatbuilding as a realm I could belong to,” she says. “As the saying goes, you have to see it to be it, a sentiment that holds significant truth. Our industry has historically been male-dominated. In response, I launched Women in Boatbuilding on Instagram with the simple aim of connecting with fellow female boatbuilders. Over time, this initiative has blossomed into a thriving community—a platform that offers the opportunity to ‘see it’ in action.”
On International Women’s Day in 2023, WIBB announced its mentoring program, connecting 10 mentors with 10 mentees to provide early career support and advice to women in the industry for 10 months. Visit WIBB’s website to learn more (or apply!) at » womeninboatbuilding.org
Women of the Working Waterfront is a research project by Diana Talley, the first female boatbuilder in Port Townsend to own her own shop. WOWW shines a light on, honors, and documents the contributions of Jefferson County women who work in the maritime industry, recognizing their cultural significance in building a hearty and robust working waterfront.
The Port Townsend community has been working to embrace and invite women throughout the waterfront, especially with the support and inspiration of Diana Talley. From captains to adventurers, sailmakers, canvas and finish workers, shipwrights, scientists, artists and writers, maritime educators and leaders, women are seen and celebrated as professionals. You can also look around the bay and see women rowers, kayakers, sailors, and paddleboarders.
The Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival continues to be a beloved event, growing and innovating each year while maintaining its cherished traditions. This year’s focus on women in the maritime industry is a testament to the festival’s commitment to inclusivity and a celebration of all who contribute to the world of wooden boats.
Both organizations will have booths at the festival, and there will be opportunities to engage with this vibrant community through the collaborative boat project they will be working on throughout the event, as well as presentations, a panel discussion, a social tea, and a group photo. To find out more, visit » woodenboat.org
PORT TOWNSEND WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL
September 6-8
Northwest Maritime Center Point Hudson
BLAZER PARTY
September 6, 6 to 8 p.m.
Northwest Maritime Center $30 per person
OFFICIAL WASHINGTON STATE BOATER CARD CLASS
September 21, 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
$40 non-member, $29 member
INTRO TO SAILING: SAILING ESSENTIALS
September 13, 2 to 5 p.m.
$99 non-member and member
BEYOND BASIC KEELBOAT: DOCKING
September 15, 1 to 4 p.m.
$149 non-member, $134 member
* Basic Keelboat recommended EVENTS & CLASSES
For more details, visit: » www.nwmaritime.org/events
Wooden Boat Festival Northwest Maritime
low tides » News & Events
FALL BOATS AFLOAT SHOW COMING TO SOUTH LAKE UNION
The Fall Boats Afloat Show will be on Seattle’s South Lake Union Sept. 12-15, spotlighting a world-class fleet of sailing yachts and high performance craft, quality shoreside exhibitors, and a full lineup of activities. It is the largest floating boat show in the Pacific Northwest and is presented by the Northwest Yacht Brokers Association (NYBA).
A boating tradition since 1978, the show is an opportunity to view boats from the U.S. and Canada and learn about the latest boating lifestyle and technology trends. The festivities include a variety of on-site tasty dining options, plenty of beverage choices, and live music performances by top local talent each day.
For newbie sailors, the Seattle Sailing Club will offer Intro to Sailing courses each day of the show. Advance registration directly through the Seattle Sailing Club is required and includes show admission. The club will also provide daily free sailboat rides at the north dock during the show.
Salmon for Soldiers (salmonforsoldiers.com) will once again provide free fishing activities for veterans and active-
NMTA ANNOUNCES GRANT FUNDING FOR GROW BOATING PROGRAMS
The Northwest Marine Trade Association (NMTA) is again providing grants to promote boating in the Northwest; the deadline to apply is Oct. 31, 2024. The NMTA’s Grow Boating program for 2024 and 2025 will offer 10 grants of $1,000 to organizations that help get new boaters on the water, promote diversity and inclusion, and encourage boaters to go boating more often.
Grants will be announced in December 2024 and funds will be distributed to grantees in the spring of 2025. A link to the application can be found at » nmta.net/grantapplication
Applications must fall into one the following categories: Youth Boating Grant, awarded to a group or organization seeking funding support for an event or program aimed specifically at getting or increasing youth participation in boating activities; Discover Boating Grant, awarded to a group or organization seeking funding support for an event or program aimed specifically at introducing new people to boating; or Boater Education/Safety Grant, awarded to a group or organization seeking funding support for an event or program aimed specifically at educating new or current boaters on how to be safe on the water.
Since 2003, NMTA has spent nearly $2 million to promote boating in the Pacific Northwest through various events, sponsorships, grants, and programs.
More information about the grant program, types of programs funded, and the application can be found at » http://www.nmta.net/grants
duty military personnel, with a mission to reduce stress and create new relationships through boating and fishing. The Puget Sound-based organization will provide information and resources each day, and showgoers can show their support by purchasing raffle tickets for a variety of prizes, with all proceeds from sales benefiting Salmon for Soldiers.
A special opening day ticket for Thursday, Sept. 12, includes one beer, wine, or nonalcoholic beverage at the Breakwater Bar inside the show. The tickets are available online only.
On Friday, the Boats Afloat Show is hosting a special women’s day celebrating women’s interest in boating. All are welcome, but women can purchase discounted tickets—$10 online or $11 at the door.
Admission to the show is $20 for adults 18 and over, $5 for teens ages 13 to 17, and free for children 12 and under. Tickets may also be purchased through the show’s website, including a multiday pass for $35, available exclusively online.
For more information visit » www.boatsafloatshow.com
WASHINGTON STATE PARKS INCREASING MOORING FEES IN 2025
Citing increasing operating costs, the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission is raising its mooring and camping fees for 2025.
The moorage fee changes will take effect Jan. 1, 2025, while the camping fee changes are effective May 15, 2025. Since visitors can make reservations up to nine months in advance, as of Aug. 15, 2024, campers will see the new fees reflected when they make reservations for May 15, 2025, and beyond.
The parks department manages more than 8,500 feet of moorage at 40 marine parks across the state, and more than 6,400 campsites. The agency is funded from a mix of state revenue and user fees, with user fee revenue making up roughly two-thirds of its operating budget. The department relies on visitor fees to maintain moorage and camping infrastructure and provide a high level of customer service and recreational access.
Under the new fee rates, daily watercraft launching fees will increase to a flat rate of $7, daily moorage per foot charges will increase to $1, daily moorage minimums and buoy moorage will increase to $23, annual moorage per foot charges will increase to $7, and annual moorage minimums will increase to $80.
The proposed change was presented at an April work session of the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission and later approved by Parks Director Diana Dupuis.
For more information visit » parks.wa.gov
CROSSWORD AND TRIVIA
DID YOU KNOW?
by Bryan Henry
Dolphins have different mates every season.
A dolphin exchanges up to 9 0 percent of t he air in its lungs every t ime it breathes. Most other mammals, including man, exchange only about 15 percent.
A mother dolphin burps her calf by thumping its belly with her snout.
Dolphins feed at depths of six feet and can stay submerged for about 15 minutes.
Dolphins can live for more than 50 years.
What is t he fastest t hing in t he ocean? I t’s a t sunami, which can travel at speeds of 500 mph and create havoc t housands of miles away. B efore making l andfall, a t sunami pulls millions of gallons of seawater away from t he shore, leaving an exposed shelf t hat may extend several thousand feet.
ACROSS
1 Sport performed off shore
5 Large gray rain clouds
8 Historic period
Sailing- no longer at anchor, out at
1 Opening on the side rail that allows water to run off the deck
The International Tsunami Warning System, based in Honolulu, was set up after the 1960 earthquake in Chile caused a massive tsunami that reached Japan in less than a day.
Some tsunamis can be 15 to 20 stories above sea level.
Since tsunami waves increase in size as they approach shallow water near shore, they can go from several yards in mid-ocean to 100 feet at the coast.
The height of a wave is called amplitude, t he distance between successive wave crests is known as wavelength, and t he t ime between successive wave crests is the period.
The height of waves depends on the fetch, the distance the waves can run without meeting an obstacle.
Mareographs measure sea levels.
Ripples, tiny waves a fraction of an inch high, are also called capillary waves.
While oceanography as a science has existed since 1847, less t han 5 percent of t he sea fl oor has been explored.
More than 90 percent of the world’s oceans are more than two miles deep.
Become a part of the 48° North crew! In addition to your magazine each month, with this exciting new subscription offering, you’ll also be supporting 48° North in a more meaningful way. But, warmed cockles are far from the only benefit. Others include:
• Discounts at Fisheries Supply Co.
• One free three-day to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival ($40 value)
• 10% off of Northwest Maritime Center classes excluding Sailing Club
• Discounts on registration fees for events
• Cool bumper sticker and decals.
• $75/year (additional fees for First Class forwarding or International)
JUST THE MAGAZINE,
Our standard subscription gets you 12 months of 48° North and its associated special publications (SARC, Setting Sail, and the Official R2AK Program).
• $39/year (additional fees for First Class forwarding or International)
low tides » Products News
» IOSSO BIO-BASED METAL POLISH
Most metal polishes contain acids and strong chemicals that make using them unpleasant, which can mean you don’t do the job as often as you need to. Iosso’s Bio-Based Metal Polish makes the task easier by being gentle on the skin and easy on the environment. Bio-Based Metal Polish meets strict California Air Resources Board requirements and is a USDAcertified biobased product. While gentle, it’s extremely effective. It quickly removes oxidation, tarnish, water spots, and surface rust from all types of metal, including stainless steel, aluminum, bronze, brass, and copper, and is equally efficient on hard plastics, porcelains, tile, and painted surfaces. Heat bluing around chromed exhaust pipes is also quickly wiped away. The finished surface is left with a gleaming shine and a protective finish. Made in the USA, Bio-Based Metal Polish is simple to use. A dab of concentrated paste rubbed onto the surface with a soft cloth and then buffed by hand or machine provides a long-lasting shine. The polish comes in a one-pound container or a five-pound bucket.
Price: $25 & $90 » www.iosso.com
» SAMSON WARPSPEED 3 SD
Samson rope company recently released its new WarpSpeed 3 SD line, which brings SamsonDry hydrophobic technology to Samson’s recreational marine portfolio. WarpSpeed 3 SD builds on the popular WarpSpeed II double-braid rope, maintaining its flexibility and excellent handling while incorporating a hydrophobic coating. Unlike traditional sailing lines that can absorb up to 45% of their weight in water, the SamsonDry coating reduces this to less than 5%, meeting UIAA standards. This results in a lighter, quicker, and more manageable rope. Additionally, WarpSpeed 3 SD is spliceable and compatible with hardware, and exhibits an elastic elongation of just 1.1% at 10% of its breaking strength load. Available in 5/16”, 3/8”, 7/16”, ½,” and 9/16”, in beige with blue tracers and beige with red tracers.
Price: $2.54 to $8.63 » www.samsonrope.com
» DUAL MARINE DIGITAL MEDIA AND BLUETOOTH RECEIVER
Out with the old, in with the new! If you’re looking to upgrade your boat’s ancient CD player to current Bluetooth technology, then Dual Electronics’ MXDW13 “mechless” (contains no moving parts; it won’t play CDs) digital media receiver is worth a look. This 200-watt AM/FM receiver with built-in Bluetooth features support for hands-free calling, audio streaming, and player control profiles with compatible smartphones and music players. The USB and 3.5 mm auxiliary inputs are conveniently located on the front of the receiver, which has a fixed, nonremovable face for extra protection from the elements
and includes electronic tuning with 30 station presets, auto station-store and four preset EQ curves. The USB input allows you to access your music library via a USB flash drive or plug in your smartphone via the USB input and browse your music library, change songs, adjust volume, and more using your connected device while also charging it. Unplug your device and it becomes its own handheld remote to control your music library, or download the Dual app to control the radio features on your smart device.
Price: $89.99 » www.dualav.com
But you need it beneath you, as the wind lets you fly across the horizon, to beat the others across the finish line.
WarpSpeed® 3 SD will help you go even faster. When every ounce counts, from the core to the cover, pSpeed 3 SD with SamsonDry® Technology will prevent water absorption, keeping your ropes light and fast.
or Pleasure, AquaDrive will make your boat smoother, quieter and vibration free.
The AquaDrive system solves a problem nearly a century old; the fact that marine engines are installed on soft engine mounts and attached almost rigidly to the propeller shaft.
The very logic of AquaDrive is inescapable. An engine that is vibrating
on soft mounts needs total freedom of movement from its propshaft if noise and vibration are not to be transmitted to the hull. The AquaDrive provides just this freedom of movement. Tests proved that the AquaDrive with its softer engine mountings can reduce vibration by 95% and structure borne noise by 50% or more. For information, call Drivelines NW today.
CASTING OFF 20 MAKE ROOM FOR OYSTERS
SHARING WIND, FOOD, AND FUN WITH FELLOW SAILORS
by David Casey
Before I understood how vast the waters of Puget Sound are, I was surprised to see so few boats out during the beautiful summer months in the Pacific Northwest, weekly club races notwithstanding. I was used to a much different sight in the San Francisco Bay Area, where I lived until recently.
Growing up just north of the city, I was amazed by the surfeit of sailboats on any sunny weekend as I crossed the Golden Gate Bridge from Marin to San Francisco. On a clear and breezy afternoon, it seemed possible for a landlubber to travel from the shore of Sausalito to the city’s Ferry Building by hopping from sailboat to sailboat, with nary a splash of salt water landing on his or her TopSiders.
But once I realized how big Puget Sound is, I understood the dearth of vessels out on the water. It is so big, reports the Encyclopedia of Puget Sound, that if every resident of Seattle was in their own boat on the waters from Admiralty Inlet to Olympia at the same time, there would be about 200 feet between each of them—a comfortable maneuvering distance but an unimaginable distance to be traversed by leaping.
As a former math teacher, I enjoyed playing around with the numbers provided by the encyclopedia, reducing Seattle’s population of around 755,000 to something a little more reasonable for the quantity of vessels that might be on the water at any given time. If the number of boats on Puget Sound was, say, 10,000, I calculated the distance between them at 1,600 feet, more than a quarter
of a mile, and I began to understand why I wasn’t seeing a bevy of boats on Commencement Bay. Additionally, I knew that some of those boats would be moored among the marinas and shores of the San Juan Islands or even beyond. Some were perhaps heading up the Inside Passage to Alaska, traveling north for summer as seabirds in flight, with the wind driving their canvas sails rather than avian wings.
Since my wife, Laura, and I have yet to make the trek toward British Columbia, choosing to cruise locally around Commencement Bay rather than challenge the wind and waves of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, we often find ourselves far more than a quarter-mile from the nearest boat. Sometimes it even feels like we have the bay all to ourselves, although I know there are other folks
The crew of Xocomil enjoys the breeze during “Get Out and Sail Night.”
Photo by Kim Hahn.
Photo by Dave Crawford.
Hama Hama oysters are a welcome “carrot” to entice sailors out on the water. Photo by Kim Hahn.
enjoying the spacious waters as well. Like us, they find that an afternoon sailing adventure offers an opportunity for a quick getaway from too much yard work outside or a rising thermometer inside.
For sailors who may still be reluctant to hoist their mains during the summer months, our club sponsors a “Get Out and Sail Night” every other Thursday from mid-June through August. On those evenings, about half a dozen boats usually depart their berths in the marina to join their fellow dockmates out in the bay. However, on one special summer weeknight, the boats are packed with passengers and crew in anticipation of the post-sailing festivities. What awaits them is a nearly unlimited supply of the famous Hama Hama oysters.
Our club’s sailboat chair procures a large order of the bivalve mollusks from the family-run oyster farm on the western shore of the Hood Canal for this annually anticipated dinner in late June, just before the great boater migration northward. The club restaurant prepares the delectable shellfish with several enticing recipes, making the outing a must-attend event.
Powerboaters in the club will sidle up to sailboat captains, begging to hitch a ride on a wind-powered vessel—a nominal requirement to partake of the post-voyage feast. To be fair, the oysters are a powerful incentive even for sailors, who might otherwise be more likely to spend a warm, sunny afternoon on their cedar back deck at home rather than their teak foredeck on the water.
I am surprised sailors need a carrot (or oyster, in this case) to get out and sail. On the other hand, I am appreciative of the event, which provides camaraderie and solidarity for novice sailors like Laura and me. There is an added excitement when sailboats cut across each other’s path, making a beeline for an imaginary marker in a race with no starting line nor set course.
For a couple of hours on an afternoon in June, while Laura and I crewed Ariel in and around the rest of the “Get Out and Sail” flotilla, I was reminded of the sight of sailboats cruising the waters inside the Golden Gate Bridge, and for an instant, the PNW felt like home.
After leaving the harbor under partly
cloudy skies and 10- to 15-knot winds, our Columbia 28 and the rest of the fleet found itself heading northeast toward Brown’s Point, then shifting westward for a short breach into the mouth of Quartermaster Harbor.
While the sight of so many boats reminded me of my time in Northern California, my nostalgic moment was cut short as I quickly shifted my attention back to sail trim and steering, ignoring the size and scope of Puget Sound or the populations of Seattle and San Francisco. With many of our fellow dockmates participating in the evening sail, I had to at least look like I knew what I was doing.
The inconsistent and aggressive 25knot gusts made for an exciting run across Commencement Bay, with quick tacks and accelerations through the choppy waters at the south end of the East Passage to Seattle.
Wavewalker, an Ericson 38, cut across our bow, and Nemesis, a Cal 30, deftly maneuvered herself parallel to our path. Her skipper, Fred, who has mentored Laura and I over the past couple of years, occupied his familiar helmsman position, sharing the cockpit with friends and family.
Tom and Renee, another supportive influence in our growth as sailors, confidently steered Barquinho, a Cal 31, among the informal regatta, at times leading the pack. They hosted a group of new sailors from the Tacoma Women’s Sailing Association.
Sail chair Rob, on his C&C 37/40, Xocomil, threatened to outpace us all with only a headsail before hoisting his main. He quickly overtook Welcomed Change, a Jeanneau 40, in an impromptu race. Like others, he hosted about a halfdozen folks on his beautiful vessel.
After a quick hour or two of tacking across the currents of the sound, we found ourselves in a race back to the marina, knowing that the last-place finisher would wind up at the end of the buffet line, surely the greater disappointment of the two outcomes.
After stowing gear and lines as quickly as possible, we all made our way to the clubhouse. The meal did not disappoint, providing a fitting reward for an exciting afternoon on the water. While the oysters provided the incentive, Mother Nature
gifted us with the wind and waves to truly enjoy our decision—whether made by design or default—to remain close to home this past summer.
The Hama Hama oyster sail is growing in popularity every year. I even overheard a few powerboaters pining to sail more often. But if their momentary confessions were more a result of the oyster dinner incentive or their favorite beverage talking, that’s OK with me.
I’ve gotten used to my little corner of the sound. In fact, having another quartermile of open water between me and the nearest boat is starting to feel downright comfortable. And if the powerboaters really are serious and there just happen to be a few more boats in the bay than I’m used to on one particular summer evening next year, I’ll consider it a small price to pay for an all-you-can eat oyster buffet.
David Casey is a retired math teacher and semi-professional woodworker and bass player. He plans on using his retirement to build a small sailboat and a kayak, and to explore the waters of southern Puget Sound.
The author sails alongside the Cal 30 Nemesis on Commencement Bay.
Photo by Patti Poulliot.
CLOSE TO THE WATER 22 OTHER BOATERS
FINDING JOY IN THE ADVENTURES THAT BOATING BRINGS
My old college friend and I were eager to get away and forgot the daily details that usually preoccupy us.
And as we slowly ghosted into Jones Island’s broad horseshoe-shaped cove, I knew we’d chosen the right spot.
An almost 200-acre state park in the San Juan Islands, Jones is an amoeba-shaped island with coves on its north and south faces. Each is framed by a pebbly beach abutted by a woodsy campground. The east and west ends of the island sport a variety of oak groves, meadows, conifer forests, and a winding trail offering breathtaking water views.
After tying up at the dock, I surveyed the scene. Nearly all the craft were trailerable, including ours. The boaters surrounding us had clearly come here to relax, just like us. But on this warm weekend in July, one thing was noticeably missing from our boat: kids. Unlike some marina destinations in the San Juans, Jones Island State Park is typically swarming with families.
Most of the trails on Jones Island offer sweeping views of the water.
by Bruce Bateau
Today, youngsters seemed to be everywhere, like in the 22-foot aluminum fishing boat now approaching the dock. A gaggle of kids crowded the bow, camping gear cluttered the middle, and four crab traps were neatly stacked in the stern. I could sense the excitement.
My own boys are grown and having their own adventures now, so it was refreshing to sit in Luna’s cockpit, entertained by other people’s kids, with zero responsibility. Glancing toward the shore, I smiled at the sight of half a dozen 5- to 10-yearolds clambering over a rocky outcropping in pursuit of a sizable rock crab.
“Ooh, there he is! I’m going in,” yelled one boy, then hesitated before his feet touched the water.
“Did you get him?” asked a girl crouching back from the action.
“I touched him,” bragged another wader, before admitting, “but he was too fast to get.”
Here at the dock, more kids were busy: trying to pull starter cords on dinghies, hunting crabs by dangling a chicken leg into the water from a string, and climbing from rafted boat to boat. Meanwhile, the crew on the beach was now boring a large hole on the sloping beach, which filled back in with pea-sized pebbles almost as fast as they dug.
The kids seemed to be everywhere and lacking any kind of supervision. They were playing pickup soccer in a field near the picnic shelter, poking sticks in a fire, and making a seesaw
out of a 20-foot driftwood log at the high-water line. Watching this unsteady contraption, I anticipated someone falling off any minute and hoped that wouldn’t happen, especially with no parents in sight.
That changed when a skiff pulled up to the dock, a stocky guy in a baseball hat at the helm.
“Who wants to go on a wood run?” he called.
With impressive speed, a bevy of kids and adults scooted aboard. In no time, I counted a dozen people on the now dangerously (to my eyes, anyway) overloaded skiff. The bow dipped, but nobody seemed concerned. Miraculously, all the kids seemed to have acquired life jackets, even if the adults were going without. With laughter and hoots of glee, the boat zipped out of the harbor, heading to some other island for the night’s ration of firewood.
Watching them lurch out of sight, I was reminded of my own free-range youth. My parents owned a fiberglass fish/ski boat, and I remember the thrill of zooming around in it and camping far from our suburban home. I recall wandering up streams and down paths into the woods, as well as fishing and collecting all manner of flotsam from the shore.
Despite starting out in motorboats, my father and I both took an interest in sailing later on. But thinking over my recent cruises, I could recall spotting only a handful of kids on sailboats. Watching the families and their motorboats at the dock, I wondered what the lack of sailing families might mean for the future of boating. Would it look more like the crowd at Jones and less like the local dinghy sailing club? Or was there another cove somewhere nearby, full of keelboats and kids in tiny Opti sailboats?
And then a boy appeared, piloting an inflatable dinghy with aluminum oars. I watched him circle the cove, testing the capabilities of his craft and himself. He looked to be about 12, intent on his rowing, and perhaps a bit solitary.
I slid my dinghy into the water and sidled up to him.
“Wanna race?” I asked.
He nodded. We maneuvered to the far end of the dock. One of his buddies called a countdown, and in a fury of splashing, we were off toward the shore. The kid looked like a windup toy, paddle-wheeling his oars. I was pushing so hard that water from my bow wake splashed onto my back. When we reached the finish line, we were both smiling (although one of us was breathing considerably harder than the other).
Later, looking through the photos someone took of our wild contest, I hoped that powering through our race imprinted something positive and unique in that kid’s mind. I wish the same for all the other children at Jones, too, whether they’re jammed in an aluminum skiff, paddling a kayak, or learning to drive a big motor cruiser.
Whether they cruise under sail and oar power like me isn’t the point; I’m excited to see them outside, without electronics in their hands, smelling the salt air, touching the tide, and hearing the birds. In this age, that’s really something to remember.
Bruce Bateau sails and rows traditional boats with a modern twist in Portland, Oregon. His stories and adventures can be found at www.terrapintales.wordpress.com.
Kids and adults pack into a Boston Whaler to go fetch firewood.
A father and son clean crabs on the park dock.
The author (left) puts his dinghy to the test against stiff competition.
DIESEL DEEP DIVE 24
ENGINE WOES WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THINGS GO TERRIBLY WRONG
Summer 2024 is in full swing and my phone is ringing off the hook. Lately, the complaints have been far more serious in nature than usual, and they seem to be clustered in a pattern of doom and destruction—not good! The past two or three months, it seems as if the Grim Reaper has been to work on many boats around the Pacific Northwest, and my shop is beginning to fill up with new winter rebuild projects.
What exactly is happening, and why? Are these major issues a result of poor engineering on the manufacturer’s part, lack of maintenance or “know-how” on the customer’s part, or maybe even an earlier repair that has gone horribly wrong? How can these catastrophes be prevented?
Diagnosing major engine issues is similar to diagnosing a patient at the hospital, and when these systems onboard begin to fail, sometimes they can spiral very quickly. It’s similar to a patient going into shock with multiple organs failing simultaneously. Whether it can be prevented or not isn’t always the question, but what to do with the aftermath now becomes the focus.
MY ENGINE WAS RUNNING, DIED, AND WON’T TURN OVER
Ah, the dilemma of a marine engine plumbed with a wet exhaust. This is actually one of my most common calls, where it becomes apparent that sea water has been ingested and has hydrolocked the engine while it was being cranked, or while it was running.
How can this happen? The most common cause is cranking the engine trying to get it started and not turning off the seacock. Water cannot be compressed, so with enough of it drawn into the engine’s cylinders, the engine now will lock up and it can no longer be turned by hand or cranked with a starter.
The solution to this? Well, there isn’t always a single or simple answer, however, as soon as you know what is happening, it is critical to “pickle” the engine as soon as possible by removing injectors or glow plugs and turning the engine over to remove as much water as possible; with the seacock closed, mind you. After doing this, filling the cylinders with any sort of oil or lubricant and changing the contaminated oil and filter can make a huge difference when it comes to trying to save the engine versus replacing the unit. Many times there is minimal or no damage, so by having a client pickle their engine for me can mean the difference between scrapping the thing and simply repairing what was damaged.
MY ENGINE WAS MAKING A KNOCKING SOUND BEFORE SHUTTING DOWN
by Meredith Anderson
Unfortunately, this scenario isn’t the news any of us want to hear. But the truth of the matter is, your engine needs serious internal repair. Knocking, ticking, or other internal noises often are caused by lack of engine oil, excessive dirt or contamination
damage, or general wear and tear from many hours of use.
If your engine loses oil pressure for any reason such as a damaged external oil fitting, worn bearings, or catastrophic failure such as a thrown connecting rod there is almost always a guarantee that you will be pulling the engine out of the vessel to be torn down and inspected. While rebuilding an engine isn’t cheap, if done properly by a professional, it can be cheaper than a brand new engine, and is often about half the cost of a repower with a different engine. This only works if the “core” engine is in good enough shape to save, which often, it is, but is something that we need to diagnose and assess before blindly moving forward.
My assessment for rebuilding these engines includes figuring out whether the engine still is well supported, what kind of damage has been done, and whether the vessel is worth having the engine rebuilt or replaced. A marine engine overhaul is very different from a similar automotive or agricultural application. Oftentimes, it takes some effort to send parts out for machining or repair, parts may be hard to find, and finding a machine shop or other specialty shop willing to work on smaller diesels can be almost impossible in some areas. This type of work can take a lot of planning before moving forward with the project to prevent wasting a ton of money on something that can’t be saved due to lack of resources.
If you have a potential overhaul on your horizon, the first step is to have a qualified professional diagnose what happened, and what was damaged in the process so you know what you are facing.
MY ENGINE DOESN’T START EASILY OR WON’T START AT ALL
While there are many reasons why an engine won’t start easily or won’t start at all, a large cause is lack of compression. Diesels require good compression inside their cylinders in order to start easily and any fault with valves, cylinder walls, pistons, or piston rings will cause difficulty starting or inability to start. Often the minimum repair to this is a top-end rebuild of the cylinder head and valves, up to a complete overhaul with new piston rings, bearings and more.
One of the most common causes of this is poor maintenance,
lack of maintenance, or poor operating habits like idling the engine excessively, not breaking it in properly or not running it hard enough to keep soot levels under control. Soot/carbon damage is very abrasive and will damage piston rings, piston crowns, cylinder walls, and valves. Most low hour engines with excessive blowby have significant soot damage and wouldn’t have had to have been rebuilt if they were operated within their recommended range under load.
All of the cases above are worst case scenarios, but they do happen and sometimes when it rains it pours. Whether it’s lack of maintenance or that the engines are just getting on in years, it seems to be pouring right now in the Pacific Northwest.
Meredith Anderson is the owner of Meredith’s Marine Services, where she operates a mobile mechanic service and teaches hands-on marine diesel classes to groups and in private classes aboard clients’ own vessels.
Universal M25 block getting new pistons, rings, bearings, seals, and machine work.
Yanmar 4JH series with confirmed damage being pulled from a boat for repair.
Ford Lehman with blown head gasket and low compression.
A piston and connecting rod showing evidence of overheating and lack of oil.
BROUGHTONS BOUND
ADVENTURES IN B.C. BRING BACK FOND R2AK MEMORIES AND A DEEP APPRECIATION FOR CRUISING
by Mark Aberle
On this late June morning, Johnstone Strait was a mill pond. Bathwater calm. Sipping coffee, it was a perfect moment to reflect on previous trips through this same stretch of notoriously unforgiving water. My first taste was 46 years ago aboard a leaky wooden Dragon Class sailboat. We had charts, a compass, and a lead line. No electronics at all. It was my first trip to Ketchikan and the Strait handed us the most uncomfortable hours of the summer. Our little 7hp outboard was up out of the water or nearly under water as the boat heaved up and down. Trees on the shore stayed frustratingly stationary for hours as we battled large waves with little forward progress. Limping into Kelsey Bay on Vancouver Island, everything down below was a sodden mess. The only charitable thing about Kelsey Bay was the warm welcome and homemade wine we received from a family aboard another small sailboat. They had been through the same thing the previous day.
That trip set the hook for many more passages up north, and
would later spark my interest in the Race to Alaska (R2AK). Forty years after that 1978 trip, I was back in the same spot during the 2018 R2AK with Team Wild Card on our Santa Cruz 27. We had just inadvertently donated our 5 gallon latrine bucket to the depths of Johnstone Strait during “a flush” and ducked into Kelsey Bay to hunt for a replacement. We found one, and after 20 minutes or so headed back into the Strait, only to be hit hard by a sudden wind increase later that night. The wind went from near zero to well over 30 knots astonishingly fast— just a couple of minutes separated our large #3 headsail trying to grab a little wind to that same sail laying the boat over, totally overpowered, with seas building. A night of hard sailing followed and in the wee hours we found ourselves temporarily in the lead of that year’s race. It was exhilarating.
My last trip up Johnstone was in 2022, again as part of R2AK, this time with Team Fashionably Late on a Dash 34. It was another night of hard sailing and avoiding logs, but on that trip I had brought a high powered flashlight and found myself riding
At Chatham Point, Leigh's first encounter with Pacific white-sided dolphins.
the bow in the pitch black, narrow beam pointed forward looking for big logs. Logs that had taken out much of the competition already. A sailboat going 6 knots covers about 10 feet per second and the light casted a beam roughly 30 feet long, which gave us 3 seconds to identify the log, yell a course correction, and make a change. Only 3 seconds between spotting the risk and avoiding it. A trimaran or catamaran going twice the speed would have half the time. We thumped our share of logs, but other than the heart stopping noise, no damage. There was plenty of debris that night, but during the time I rode the bow there was only one in our path that could have caused damage and, in that instance, 3 seconds was enough to miss it.
Bringing myself back to the present moment, on this morning in 2024 we had been greeted by a school of Pacific white-sided dolphins as we rounded Chatham Point. Leigh, my first mate (as well as my Admiral) hadn’t seen dolphins playing with the boat before and stood on the bow spellbound by the interaction of boat, human, and dolphin. Between the dolphins and the calm waters, it was a good omen.
Trip planning had begun early this year, shortly after an early February pig roast on Sucia Island. Leigh had one of those chats on the dock with a tenured cruiser who spoke of the Broughtons in reverent tones. When she returned to the boat she said,
“What would it take to get to the Broughtons?” The die was cast for the summer voyage aboard our newly repowered sailboat, Cambria
Cambria is a Stan Huntingford designed Maple Leaf 42 with an enclosed center cockpit and comfortable accommodations, making it an ideal cruiser for long days. With her new Yanmar diesel, thanks to Gordy and crew at Bellingham Marine Repair, she is, in many ways, a new boat. Not bad for a 1983 vintage. The repower was transformative. As a buddy aptly put it, “It’s like a heart transplant for your boat.”
With the repower, along with two years of refurbishing and refreshing the boat, we were ready to head out on a longer cruise, and the destination had been decided. My role was to execute the cruise.
Given my past experiences going north up the eastside of Vancouver Island, once the general route was agreed upon, it was more about preparation than planning. Planning, in my view, assumes far more control than I have. I can’t control the weather or the attitude at the time or interesting things that may happen along the way. Weather gets a huge vote each day on how far to go. Impromptu social events also can alter the schedule. I can plan for currents, but for the most part we make game day decisions after discussing pros and cons. Mutinies are
Leigh at the helm of Cambria
Rafted with friends in the Broughtons, Cambria is dwarfed by the 68-foot Tollycraft.
Rain doesn't get in the way of getting out for a paddle in the Burwood Islands.
Two kayaks are a prominent feature on Cambria’s bow. Great for being on the water in bear country.
much less likely when the crew has solid input.
Preparation encompasses a wide scope of things, but over the years I’ve tried to ensure the boat is always ready to go. A friend uses the word ‘reset’ at the end of a cruise— resetting the boat for the next outing. Armed with charts and cruising guides, as well as Starlink, heading out with no reservations and no detailed agenda is part of how we cruise.
The arc of the trip was to put in long days in the beginning to get us through Seymour Narrows, up the always memorable Johnstone Strait, before relaxing a bit in the Broughtons. Then we’d return via Dent Rapids, spend a little time in Desolation Sound and head back to Anacortes. We used a planning chart of Vancouver Island with bits of tape and Post It notes to visualize the trip.
As it turned out, our planned three day hop to the Broughtons was elongated to four. Anacortes to Ganges (via Bedwell Harbour), then Ganges to Nanaimo, Nanaimo to Campbell River, and finally Campbell River through Seymour Narrows to Lagoon Cove.
We had high southerly winds approaching Campbell River and the Cape Mudge area was lumpy. Waves built but a large splashing just off the starboard bow caught our attention. A humpback whale was standing on its head, flukes high above
the water, then pounding the waves sending up spray in spectacular fashion. Docking at Campbell River wasn’t much fun but no gel coat was harmed and we had a great meal at the head of the dock at the Riptide Pub.
After transiting Seymour Narrows in engineless craft during R2AK, my fear of Seymour has waned. Respect remains and even with a freshly repowered sailboat I took care to hit slack tide appropriately. The last time I went through was in 2022 with Team Fashionably Late, and the R2AK film crew took pictures of us sailing sideways through whirlpools to whooping and cheers from the cockpit.
This time, we transited at first light with no drama. One tip when transiting Seymour Narrows is to tune into VHF channel 71. Vessel Traffic is monitored on that channel and it’s interesting listening as the larger commercial craft receive instructions for safe passage through the Narrows from Victoria Vessel Traffic Services. As a recreational boater, I figure my job is to stay clear of the commercial guys, but also to confirm intent on Channel 13 if necessary.
Lagoon Cove was charming as usual. Some old friends of ours, Tom and Tessa, had been up there for a few days and joined us on the dock. The happy hour tradition continued and I coaxed a story out of Tom, a commercial fisherman in his youth, about the
The crew of Cambria has beautiful Kwatsi Bay all to themselves.
time he helped cut a young humpback whale out of a fishing net. After several decades that story gets a little better each time. It was also here, where reminders of R2AK lingered. Just a week or so earlier, Team Boogie Barge, still in the R2AK hunt, had their discussion to continue the race or not, according to the owners of Lagoon Cove. They did not, which was unfortunate because their progress was fun to follow.
From Lagoon Cove we meandered through the Broughtons, occasionally rafting up with friends. This was the last week of June, so rain and some wind dominated the days. While expected, we had hoped for better weather, but with diesel heat and an enclosed cockpit, Cambria was designed for this. We were warm, dry, and comfortable. R2AK had set a low bar for comfort on a Santa Cruz 27 and Dash 34, so having heat, a flush toilet, a dry bunk, and plenty of time for sleep made for an enjoyable experience, even if the weather wasn't great.
The next few days were spent in the company of Tom and Tessa who have a 68-foot Tollycraft. We prawned, crabbed, and ate very well over the course of several days. We also spent time musing on the difference between the powerboat style of cruising versus the sailboat style. Cambria doesn’t have a generator. My buddy has two, along with a dishwasher and laundry facilities. Our galley sink serves both those functions and we use a close line hung in the engine room. But, we’re both
out there, which is all that matters.
The Broughtons are magical. Remote and sparsely populated, the islands are abundant in wildlife and some amenities can be found when needed. After 10 wonderful days, the time had come to pull the ripcord and head south again. We used Lagoon Cove as our final departure point, filling the dinghy with fuel and as we departed, we tucked a reef in the main in the calm of the cove knowing we were headed for more spirited winds in Johnstone Strait.
We then had one of those great days of sailing, especially with everything easily managed from the enclosed cockpit. With the current, we routinely hit 9 and sometimes 10 knots with the jib only partially deployed and, at one point, we were slowly overtaken by a pod of killer whales. In my experience, it was about as close to a perfect day as you’re doing to get on Johnstone Strait.
Towards the end of the day we bailed out of the Strait and headed up Blind Channel to incredibly scenic Shoal Bay. What a wonderful place. We scored a spot on the dock and enjoyed the stunning views up Philips Arm. Deciding to put in a lay day, we did the ‘gold mine hike’ and, once we found the right trail, we made it to the mine for a fun bit of exploring.
As often happens, a dock party organically formed and powerboating Canadians mingled with sailors from the U.S.
Rafted with friends on Nootka Rose in Squirrel Cove.
The view from the deck at gorgeous Shoal Bay.
Shoal Bay vista looking out to Phillips Arm.
Appetizers were shared and stories swapped. The world shrank by just a little bit on that night. After two days, we woke early to catch the slack at Dent Rapids. We just so happened to transit with the trimaran Hullabaloo, who had finished third in this year’s R2AK. On the VHF I offered my condolences on third place in a race that only has two prizes—$10,000 nailed to a log for first place and an elegant set of steak knives for second. After finishing R2AK in third place twice, I could commiserate.
From Dent, we made the transition to Desolation Sound. With warmer water, more boats, and a less remote feel, it was almost civilized. We met up with friends Bruce and Carol on their Nauticat 44 and after a couple of days of eating, relaxing, and reminiscing, it was time to move on; Leigh and I both felt that the trip should probably come to an end. The garden needed to be tended, we both have aging parents that needed our attention, and the gravitational pull of ‘home’ was stronger than the pull of ‘north’.
We left Squirrel Cove at first light and had a long, but comfortable day of motoring down Malaspina Strait, then crossing the Strait of Georgia to Silva Bay. The timing of the currents dissuaded us from taking Trincomali Channel on the final stretch home, so we stayed outside and by midafternoon we were tied up at our slip in Anacortes. We reset the boat, and headed home.
This type of trip isn’t for everyone. We covered nearly 600 miles in three weeks. The R2AK experience helped me think about cruising in a different way. It’s possible to both ‘race’ to a remote spot, then relax and ‘cruise’ the area. Long harder days followed by easy shorter days—or days of simply going nowhere.
The Northwest can be a cruisers paradise—more remote areas in the summer, closer destinations in the winter. Even with an increasing population and so many ‘guidebooks’ and internet advice, you can find quiet coves and anchorages, if you are willing to poke around a bit.
Next year we may do things completely different and spend more time but cover fewer miles. One thing is for sure, we live in an ideal region of the world for cruising while also having a home, and even having the ability to join an amazing adventure race like R2AK in the same waters. In the Northwest, you truly can have your cake and eat it, too.
Mark Aberle is a longtime Pacific Northwest cruiser, racer, rower, and paddler. He spent his childhood summers in the San Juan Islands, where he developed a deep appreciation and love of the islands and the Inside Passage. A recovering liveaboard, he tries to spend as much time on Cambria as life’s competing demands allow.
The sweeping panorama from the gold mine hike.
DAYSAILER DELIGHTS
THE ADVENTURE I DIDN’T KNOW I NEEDED
Irecently reached the five-year anniversary of living aboard my Hunter 43 Legend, Muse , and what a great life decision it has been. I truly love my tiny floating home, but as most marina tenants will tell you, the actual time spent boating is less than you might imagine. Living on Muse is the easy part. It’s getting off the dock that’s hard.
Turning our cozy family residence into a functioning sailboat is a lot of work, with a long list of things to stow, unplug, and secure. With a 65-foot mast, we also require drawbridge clearance, which has to be arranged with the city’s bridge operators at least two hours in advance when we’re on our way out, as well as back in.
So you can probably understand my policy that if Muse is getting into cruising mode, “We are going somewhere, dangit!” This is why, aside from my prepurchase sea trial back in 2018, I’ve never been out for a daysail on this boat. When we go out, it’s for two nights minimum.
This has been working pretty well for us the last few years, but this season is different. We are consumed nearly every weekend with a new project: building a retreat center on Harstine Island. Sure, we could sail there and drop anchor in Jarrell Cove or at McMicken Marine State Park. But it’s just so easy to drive the 20 miles from Tacoma and use what would have been a 12-hour round trip sail for
by Samantha McLenachen
more time spent laboring away as we build our new vision.
So Muse sits at the dock, faithfully tied up for the season. And, although lovely, the only slice of water we enjoy is right in downtown Tacoma with constant car, train, and factory noises. With this everpresent cacophony, it’s easy to forget what splendor lies just outside the Foss Waterway. I didn’t realize how much I had missed it until my husband, Andrew, found a way for us to venture out for short sails without all the fuss of getting Muse out of her slip and through the bridge.
Being a fair-weather weekend cruiser who sees sailing as a means to an end and not necessarily as an objective in itself, I could come to terms with this weird nonboating boating season. Andrew could not.
He’s the type who can’t go more than five minutes without trimming sails, even on a long leg of a laid-back cruise; is always spotting other boats to race, whether they’re aware they’ve entered into a competition or not; and has trouble relaxing at anchor if there’s a perfect breeze blowing. It’s a feeling like he’s missing out on a golden opportunity to be out sailing once again.
A year without sailing was unacceptable to him, so he took action back in April and bought us a 1960s C-Lark 14, a little daysailer sloop with a centerboard. After months of research, he knew this was
The author and her husband enjoying a sail on their
the boat he wanted, and he had been scoping out his options on Craigslist for a while. Every time he got close to making the purchase, however, he felt guilty. Should he really spend $800 on something recreational when we have so many other important things to invest in right now? In the end, he decided that his happiness and quality of life were worth the expense, and I completely agreed. Apparently the powers that be did, too, because a few days later he received a check in the mail from a class action lawsuit for just over $800.
Eager to get on the water, Andrew quickly made a few repairs and upgrades, including swapping out crusty old lines and cable halyards for brand new Sta-Set
The C-Lark before receiving new paint.
C-Lark.
Rigged and ready to go, a new-to-them dinghy is perfect for day sailing.
running rigging, installing new Harken blocks and cleats, affixing a new windex to the top of the mast, incorporating hiking straps to secure feet when the boat is heeled, and adding a float to the top of the mast to prevent the boat from turtling in the event of a full 180° capsize. He also made some necessary fiberglass repairs, re-cored the transom with Divinycell, and scooped out all the old styrofoam inside the seats. The foam had originally provided enough buoyancy to prevent the boat from sinking, but it wasn’t doing much good in its heavily degraded state. Rather than replace it with new foam, he chose to use airbags made for Opti sailboats, which are nearly perfect in size. New black antifouling paint and shiny teal topside
paint provided the finishing touches, and by late May she was ready to splash. His childlike enthusiasm was infectious. I couldn’t help but be excited and happy about this new addition, even if I did imagine capsizing in the chilly waters of Commencement Bay with every gust of wind or minor error in weight adjustment.
I was grateful Mother Nature took it easy on me that first day as we launched the C-Lark at Point Defiance and ghosted our way back downtown. Aside from a few small puffs, it was very slow going— so uneventful, in fact, that we started up the slightly eerie, mysterious islandvibe playlist that we usually reserve for becalmed cruising days. It instantly zaps the frustration and makes windless
moments fun and memorable. A stretch of water that would normally take us an hour to cover took three hours that day, and we had a blast.
We got the C-Lark tied up next to Muse, ready to go on mini-adventures at a moment’s notice. Andrew was like a kid at Disneyland, but I was still worried about the wind absolutely flattening us in that tiny little bathtub of a boat, especially without a heavy keel to keep us upright. Seemingly aware of my thoughts, Andrew promised to only ever take it out in safe conditions. He’s had a lot of experience in small boats racing on Lake Pleasant near Phoenix, and our doublehanding has gotten better over the years. I knew we were both sea-smart and capable sailors, so I made a conscious choice not
Enjoying a beautiful spinnaker run on Puget Sound.
to let my fear stop me, and I made an internal commitment to always say yes when Andrew suggested we go out for a sail… which is a lot.
It really didn’t take long before my anxiety was replaced with thrill and delight at being so close to the wind and water, flying out toward the bay. The breeze builds, and I intuitively lean back, brace my feet, and raise myself up to sit on the rail and compensate for the power of the wind with the weight of my body. If it’s still too much, we ease the sheets.
The C-Lark is surprisingly steady for having a centerboard. She wants to sail—to be in her happy place—and she seems to naturally stiffen up as the rail gets close to the water. That’s when the real magic happens. We become like one organism: the boat, Andrew, and me. Each reading one another’s energy, and sometimes even communicating without words. I know that we’re simply processing data—the wind, sail trim, the degree of heel, the waves—and responding, but it feels like so much more than that.
We aren’t the only Foss Harbor liveaboards who feel this way. There are three other C-Larks in the marina with a potential fourth in the works. It won’t be long before the neighborhood fleet is organizing races, and Andrew couldn’t be more excited to get back to the sport he loves.
Sometimes I still feel a bit guilty about not getting Muse out of her slip more often, but she’s very well cared for, being owned by a professional marine repair person. And right now she’s providing the coziest, most interesting city dwelling I could ever have imagined. We love our home so very much, and I believe she loves us back. The time for cruising will come again, and I’ll be a better sailor when it does.
In the meantime, the C-Lark has made a profound and surprising improvement to our lives on the water. And I’m happy to report that we haven’t had a single capsize.
Samantha McLenachen and her husband, Andrew, live aboard with their children in Tacoma, Washington. They proudly own the small, local marine repair business Independent Marine Service.
48° NORTH CRUISING RALLY 2024
BEAUTIFUL, BUT NEXT YEAR NO
BANANAS
Aby Joe Cline
gentle puff filled our sails, and we scooted ahead with a couple of golden knots of boat speed. Nice. Then we hit a velocity header and began our current-swept reverse track back in the direction of Buckeye Shoal off the northwest tip of Cypress Island. Sometimes that’s sailing, isn’t it?
We were just a couple of hours into the 2024 48° North Cruising Rally, but we were moving south, back to Anacortes. Huh? Oh right, we were cruising; why not just turn on the engine?
And that’s where we were really out of luck. We had a line inexorably wrapped around the propeller and were mired in our Rosario Strait yo-yo of no progress toward the port that was both the day’s starting point and suddenly its inevitable destination. With a trickle of water coming in at the prop shaft and many hours before the breeze might build in earnest, the writing was on the wall. We were going to need a tow.
After the 2023 edition of the 48° North Cruising Rally in the San Juan and Gulf
islands, I wrote a “pinch me” article, hinting that we spent the week waiting for the other shoe to drop because it was so dang good. It never did on that glorious trip. Cue the 2024 “dropped shoe edition” of the rally. Only a few hours into this year’s event, three of the 11 boats that began were down, not to return, all with engine-related problems.
By the end of the week, an additional array of challenges—boat-related and not—left me and our rally group reflecting ambivalently. And that, to me, was the big lesson from the 2024 rally: If you cruise long enough, things can and will go wrong, sometimes dancing dangerously near the edge of disaster; and yet, it is still unquestionably worth venturing out.
Though glossy magazine articles and hyper-produced YouTube videos might suggest otherwise, real boaters know that things don’t always go right when you’re cruising. Often you can pinpoint the cause, like with nasty weather, an acute boat handling mistake, or an overambitious plan. But other times, it just feels like what it genuinely is—a bit
of bad luck. The night before the rally, I stood in the produce section of the grocery store in Anacortes, staring at the bananas. I thought to myself, “I know the rule, but I really want some bananas. And I don’t believe that old superstition anyway.” Idiot.
When we hauled out at our rally headquarters to address the nowleaking prop shaft, we discovered bent engine mounts (damn, Dyneema line is strong!) and began working out a Plan B to continue the rally without the boat that was supposed to be leading it. I found myself thrust back into the land of nautical superstition, feeling somewhat to blame for the bad luck on the rally’s first day. I threw the bunch of bananas away at the boatyard, and you won’t find any of those yellow luck-busters on my boat from here on out, I promise.
Still, the group that was able to carry on, myself included on a different boat, had an absolutely marvelous trip. We were predictably, yet still speechlessly, wowed by the natural beauty of the San Juan and Gulf islands. We were won over by the generosity, support, and
camaraderie of our fellow rallygoers. And I was strengthened in my conviction that the way we handle adversity is the most important factor in an adventure ultimately being rewarding or regrettable.
WHAT’S THE RALLY ALL ABOUT?
Founded in 2018, 48° North’s Cruising Rally is an idea that developed out of collaboration between me and Ullman Sails loft owner Chuck Skewes, and we’ve always run it in partnership. At its core, it’s a community connection event for us and some of the people who love both 48° North and PNW cruising.
More tangibly, it’s an exercise in the “safety in numbers” value of group cruising and a chance for folks whose skills and confidence run the gamut to travel together, learn from one another, and share a bunch of great experiences. A few other rally priorities have floated to the top over the years. One is a focus on anchoring out in harbors and coves that aren’t always the hottest spots. We like to avoid crowds when possible. We make a concerted effort to help rally participants try things that have a slightly increased degree of difficulty, like rafting up or doing a stern-tie anchoring setup, sometimes in combination.
Additionally, we’ve found that our participants find the nudge to cross the border into British Columbia valuable.
Many longtime cruisers might think that unremarkable, but for newer cruisers, that international boundary and the unknowns about customs protocols mean they stay stateside for many years before making the jump.
In the end, this rally ticked all those boxes. I’m proud of this event, especially of the community it continues to build. And on a personal note, it helps get me out cruising, too, which stokes the fire of my passion for that activity, especially when I share it with a terrific group of rallygoers like this year.
THE 2024 TRIP
As in previous years, our 2024 rally began and ended in Anacortes. We had eyes on a big travel day on our first day out, hoping to clear customs and head into the Gulf Islands right away. However, our preferred anchorage for that night (an old rally favorite, Medicine Beach, at the north end of Bedwell Harbour) is not the place to be with any amount of southerly breeze. Wouldn’t you know it, the forecast for day one was an unstable and potentially building southeasterly. Prudence led us to lay up in the alwayswonderful Prevost Harbor on Stuart Island, just a 4-mile hop to the customs dock in Bedwell the next morning. Those who didn’t experience the unfortunate delays of engine failures and boatyard haulouts enjoyed cooperative currents
and awesome sailing when transiting the northern edge of the islands. A run trending to a reach with breeze in the mid-teens—it doesn’t get much better. By the time I caught up with them at Stuart, every boat there was floored by the great day, even as they hunkered down in the evening’s intermittent downpours that splashed wildly down on the placid waters of the protected bay. Though going ashore at Stuart Island offers excellent walks, the rain kept most folks aboard in their dry cabins instead of taking dinghies in for short hikes or the long stroll out to the Turn Point Lighthouse.
I caught up with the group thanks to the generosity of four-time rally participant and good friend Ed. He recently sold his Tartan 3400 and is trying out his first powerboat, an elegant Tiara 30. Ed generously towed in the poor rally headquarters boat and allowed me to stow away for a few days. We zipped through the islands averaging a little more than 20 knots on his powerful new ride to catch up with the group.
When we pulled into Prevost in the early evening, rally friends Ralph and Kicki waved us in to raft up to their J/120. They were on cloud nine after a chilly but exhilarating day of sailing, and saw the weight of the day’s stresses and uncertainty on my face. They immediately invited Ed and me in for dinner, and we
Dealing with the unsavory pairing of high tech line and a propeller shaft on the rally headquarters boat.
Not what you want to see in the first few hours of the rally, but major thanks to rally goer Ed for providing the tow.
accepted. Soon, the clouds over my first rally day had been burned away by the warm hospitality and friendship of my fellow ralliers.
Day two would transition us from cold and wet back to weather befitting the summer season, but not before some careful and/or delayed travel thanks to pea soup fog. We pulled anchor and made for the Bedwell Harbour customs dock on British Columbia’s South Pender Island. Even a boat like Ed’s Tiara, which can do nearly 30 knots, slows to cruising sailboat speeds when wading through such low visibility.
The group rapidly cleared into Canada with zero excitement (just how we like it), and we made our slow turn north into Swanson Channel, carefully avoiding the vessel no-go zone to protect whale
habitat along the southwest shore of North Pender Island. I’d like to say that we were keeping our eyes peeled for orcas, but we were mainly straining our eyes in the fog and attentively alternating between the radar screen and our buddy boats.
Our day two destination was Princess Cove on Wallace Island, and as we headed north, the fog cleared and another sailable southerly filled in. It turned into a genuinely lovely day of travel, and sailing amongst the Gulf Islands is always such a special experience.
Knowing that the island and anchorage are favorites of so many, we have wanted to put Princess Cove on the rally itinerary for many years, but it wasn’t until this year that I decided we should go for it. It’s the farthest north our rally has
ventured, and considering its popularity and limited space, we’d always wondered if we’d ever find room for our fleet. We made it happen in 2024, but it wasn’t exactly easy. It was, however, very worth it!
Princess Cove is a breathtakingly beautiful narrow inlet with about 15 stern-tie rings on the west shore. So bringing our fleet, even now reduced from 11 to eight, presented a challenge. But that wasn’t the only hurdle. Pulling into the cove, we discovered a catamaran that arrived before us had dropped anchor and was set up to swing, blocking at least four stern-tie rings. Adding to the excitement was the southerly wind, which by this time had built to 15 knots out in the channel, and some portion of that was trickling into our little cove as a
Heavy fog slowed progress but didn't dampen spirits after clearing customs in Bedwell Harbour—thanks buddy boats!
Buddy the boat pup.
A wonderful gathering of rally goers on the Tiara 30 solidified fast friendships among the group
cross breeze. Stern-tie anchoring is one of my favorite ways to spend the night, but getting set in that orientation with wind on the beam is kind of a drag. Speaking of dragging, thankfully the breeze never built enough to make anyone’s anchor drag, which cruising guides note can be a risk here. When the breeze finally decreased in the evening, it was most welcome.
Catamaran aside, one of the interesting discoveries at Princess Cove was that there is enough room for a few boats to swing on slightly short scope on the east side of the inlet while still allowing others to stern-tie. No doubt it’s snug, but it is possible, and good to know for future visits.
This was my first time on Wallace Island and boy, did it meet expectations. Several
Though stern-tying with a cross breeze proved difficult, the anchorage at Princess Cove was truly magnificent.
friends have declared it their favorite island, and I can see why. The narrow island is overflowing with amazing views, superior hiking, and oodles of gnarled madronas. In the two primary anchorages, Princess and Conover coves, the shallow, protected waters warm (slightly) in the summer sun, and there were a number of swimmers in each location. Aside from two remaining private properties, it’s all B.C. Provincial Marine Park and is wonderfully idyllic—it’s not surprising that it was once home to a summer camp and a resort.
Anticipating all of this Wallace wonder, we enjoyed our planned layover day at Princess Cove. The camaraderie of our rally group really took shape there, as it always does. Group gatherings and activities facilitate this, and between
the blissful get-together on Ed’s boat on our first night in Princess Cove, some fun group hikes ashore, goofing around with the sail rig on Ed’s ship-to-shore tender, and a dinghy dock happy hour on our second night, we were suddenly a group of fast friends. It’s part of the group cruising magic that I’ve come to expect from each rally. To top it off, we were treated to an epic, seemingly never-ending sunset on our last night at Wallace.
For the final night of our rally, we headed to a stopover that almost always makes its way onto our rally itinerary, Saturna Island’s Winter Cove. The wellprotected cove has piles of room, great anchoring in just-deep-enough water, and views galore to the Vancouver metro through Boat Pass and of the sunset over
A quiet night stern-tied at Princess Cove.
Like Wallace, there’s a fabulous B.C. provincial park to visit ashore in Winter Cove, with a very short but rewarding hike to see the tidal flow (and the occasional ambitious powerboat) rushing through Boat Pass.
By the time our rally crew pulled into Winter Cove after another great day of making miles under sail, which I shared with my friend Peter and his pup Buddy on his Saga 35, individual itineraries and a few participants down with illness meant that our group was even a few boats smaller. But we still had a splendid walk out to Boat Pass together, and were treated to another breathtaking sunset. It was a quiet but ideal way to wrap up the rally experience.
With a long final travel day ahead, we waved our goodbyes to our new friends and to the Canadian cruising grounds in the soft light of early morning. In spite of its challenges, it was another great
48° North Rally, and it was my privilege to share this experience of cruising beauty with a fleet of such good-hearted, hospitable, and fun rallygoers.
PARTING THOUGHTS
For any cruiser, there’s a lot of buildup, anticipation, and expectation when we head away from our home ports for destinations known or yet to be explored. You might think that the longer the cruise, the more that’s true. However, I’d suggest that perhaps the opposite is the case. For those with time-consuming responsibilities ashore, sometimes that cruise is the single opportunity for a year’s lot of waterborne wonder. It’s sort of similar to the way you seldom hear ski bums complain about the conditions, but instead it’s the family who dropped major dough in hopes of an awesome experience that day who will be most disappointed by less-than-stellar snow. The 48° North Rally is, in its own way, our
one annual shot at this version of cruising bliss, and it brings ample expectation for our participants and for me. It’s also an encouragement to myself and others to just cruise more often.
Of course, that may not be realistic for many of us. When you don’t or can’t cruise often and things don’t go right, especially at the start, there’s a painful sting in the loss of the perfect experience. There’s no way around that bummer. But finding your way through it, continuing on, and giving yourself the opportunity to have your cup filled by the amazing goodness of even a less-than-ideal cruising experience—that’s the spirit of adventure. And that’s already making me excited for next year’s cruising rally.
Joe Cline is the Managing Editor of 48° North. He’s presently on paternity leave to spend time with his infant son, and is enjoying learning about being a father of two.
Minx Reef.
Fun times at the dinghy dock happy hour at Princess Cove.
Cal 31 Barquinho sails Trincomali Channel
The author enjoys playing with the sailing rig on the Gig Harbor Navigator 10 tender
The crew of Hunter 376 All_Swell added to the memories shared at Wallace Island's fabled cabin.
54th SHAW ISLAND CLASSIC
by Peg Gerlock
Sunshine, variable winds, and fog set the stage for the 54th annual Shaw Island Classic yacht race.
The race, hosted by the San Juan Island Yacht Club (SJIYC), is unique in that Shaw Island is the only mark on the course and can be rounded in either direction. It is only 13 miles, but shifting winds, variable currents, narrow rocky channels, and ferry traffic often turn it into a nautical chess game.
“It was a drag race to Wasp Passage,” said Ken Machtley, skipper of Treachery, a Martin 242 and first place winner in the PHRF-C division, and first overall in the August 10 event.
“Four Orcas Island boats (a Soling 27 and three Martin 242s) and the venerable Wild Rumpus, a Santa Cruz 27, were in a dead heat up San Juan Channel. Wasp Passage provided its normal ‘wind from every direction’ challenges, though the ebb helped to push us along and make quicker work of this tricky section than most years.”
Two-thirds of the 39-boat fleet took a clockwise course, betting there was enough wind at the start to overcome an ebb current in San Juan Channel. This course would allow riding the ebb through the notoriously narrow and windless Wasp Passage. That bet paid off, with all but one clockwise boat finishing the race. While clockwise dominated, most of the counterclockwise racers also finished, with 36 boats crossing the line before the 6 p.m. cutoff.
“It was one of the best sails in recent memory!” said Nigel Oswald, singlehanded skipper of Makika, an F25C trimaran, placing first in the multihull division and first to finish on elapsed time in 2:28:36. “More wind than expected and we had a close battle with Mist (a TP52) all the way around. The holes were much shorter than normal, just a couple of dead spots for a couple of minutes and the rest of the time we were always moving.”
The clockwise boats made short work of reaching the midway point in Cayou Channel on the northeast side of Shaw Island, where the winds usually turn light and fluky. Still riding the ebb, racers floating past Hankin Point met up with the unusual combination of channel fog and 9 to 12-knot winds.
“We didn’t have the modern navigation aids,” said Michael Durland, skipper of Challenge, a 6-Metre and first place finisher in the PHRF-B division, “so we had to pick a boat ahead of us in the fog who looked like they were headed home, and then once we passed them, find someone else to tail until the fog lifted
and the finish line was in sight. Always a treat to pass up these modern go-fast boats with a 90-year-old classic.”
Thank you to the Washington State Ferries captains of the Samish, Tillikum, Chelan, and Yakima who carefully maneuvered through the racing fleet. A particular shout-out goes to the captain of the Samish, who edged north through the narrow waterway between Flat Point and Canoe Island in Upright Channel in a bank of fog with the racing fleet beating to windward south.
Spirits were high and spirits were enjoyed as racers once again gathered at the lovely SJIYC clubhouse overlooking the harbor for post-race banter and a hearty lasagna dinner served by the first mates.
“Overall, we had an exceptional day on the water with enough wind to make it a fast race, spotty fog to add an interesting twist to navigation at times, and a nice size fleet of exceptional competitors to sail against,” Machtley said.
The Perseverance Award, in honor of Wally Lum, who skippered Marquita in the first Shaw race and has competed in every race since, goes to the last boat to cross the finish before the deadline. This year’s winner was Nisku, a Crealock 34 skippered by Luis Zappelli. Most winners get a brag flag and an inscription on a perpetual trophy, but the lucky winner of this award gets a bottle of champagne!
Complete results and photos are posted at the club’s website at http://sjiyc.com/shaw
Wally Lum (center) has sailed in all 54 Shaw Island Classics. Photo by Susan Ley.
NORTHERN CENTURY 2024 STRONG CURRENTS
AND A LACK OF WIND MADE
FOR A TOUGH RACE THROUGH THE SAN
JUANS
by Stephanie Campbell
You could say that the Northern Century 2024 edition was a bit of an enigma because it was everything! The weather prediction was for a solid first 24 hours of very light wind and very adverse current, followed by Saturday night with complete chaos predicted with up to 40 knots of wind, rain, lightning and thunder, followed by predicted shifty light breeze Sunday morning bringing it in to the finish cutoff time.
Preparing my Santa Cruz 27 Wild Rumpus for the event, my dock neighbors were very entertained. I packed most every sail in the inventory, from my drifter to the storm jib, and a lot of kites. I packed camping gear, and even a Mr. Buddy heater because it’s been cold at night. I had no intention to ride out the storm, but in case I got caught in it, I bought a new hacksaw, flares, and an airhorn. I rigged the reefs and the jack lines. Alternately, I also brought a new card game in case we were bored and drifting. In the end, it was all of that for the intrepid racers who stuck it out. We started together on Friday night, August 16, in Fidalgo Bay near Anacortes. The Neil Diamond cover band regaled the fleet as we paraded to the starting line in a few knots of breeze. It looked very light across the bay in the standard race direction, toward Huckleberry Island. A few boats, including Eric Nelson’s Gardyloo, took some time to
check out making a left turn up Guemes Channel before the start to see if it was a better way to go. In the end, we all went together around the northeast corner of Guemes Island and headed toward Lummi Island on the way to the first mark at Point Roberts.
With a light breeze and lots of holes, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset and took turns passing each other and getting passed until it got dark. It was a special treat to get passed by the San Juan 24 Juan Solo, only to be “Rick-rolled” on the stereo. The wind was light, but the current was negligible in the first hours
of the race. I feel like the goal was definitely to get to the Lummi Island shore to get through the inevitably massive ebb tide coming our way, but there were limited opportunities to get there. On Wild Rumpus, we tried! There was a lot of tacking the drifter, scampering around the mast in light wind with the tiny trimming string, but the angle toward the Lummi Shore was just not attainable. Before we knew it, we were exactly where we solidly did not want to be—along the Sinclair Island shore. The flashing green mark on the southeast corner of the island was
The Sabre 426 Zen No Zen sails well upwind en route to victory.
abeam in the darkness, and then slightly behind us, and then next to us. We saw boats very close to the shore, and decided foolishly that we didn’t want that. Lesson learned: set the anchor if you’re near shallow water and you’re barely making headway in the dark.
Eventually, we couldn’t see that flashing green mark because we drifted backwards around the corner. At times we were coasting along making a couple knots of water speed, but knowing that we were going backwards over the bottom. Eventually the sun rose over Mount Baker. It was beautiful, however,
we were going backwards so fast that it disappeared behind the corner of Guemes Island. The cold hard truth was that we were well on our way back to Anacortes, stern first. We weren’t alone. Other friends were right there with us, and boats continued to emerge stern first from around the corner of Cypress Island where we were trying to duck out of the ebb. Still early on Saturday morning, we knew that the wind forecast was not positive and we had several hours of ebb left and a massive storm system predicted in the evening. We turned on the outboard and became
armchair racers from that point forward. Many boats made it to the Lummi Shore and carried on toward Point Roberts, and many boats made it around the first mark. Some boats made it safely to a dock before the storm. And one boat rode out the storm and finished! Ross Bernard’s Sabre 426 Zen No Zen is a long-time staple of the Northern Century. A beautiful boat with amenities such as an espresso machine (I kid you not!) they raced with three crew, which I think can be a magic number. Zen wowed us all by starting the race as the only boat on starboard jibe in a fleet of port tack kites, and we all made our way through the line without incident. They faced the same challenges of dodging and weaving to stay in the wind, and also ended up at wily Sinclair Island.
The brilliance began when they set their anchor. Ross shared that they anchored for hours, until they got passed by a log with a couple seagulls aboard. Time to go! Even still, they ended up going around the back of the island and made their way up to the Orcas Island shore. Zen favored the left side of the course to Point Roberts, passing between Matia and Sucia islands on the way. They rounded the first mark with Kahuna and Ratfish, before enjoying a tight reach to Patos Island sailing at 80º at 18 knots with the pole on the forestay.
The next decision was the big one: Which side of Waldron Island? The right side is definitely the intuitive choice with open water, but all intel led to taking the left side with better current. Well, it worked. It was a bit light, but there was a current push and they just kept moving forward. After passing slowly through the islands, they arrived at Cattle Pass around dinner time. They put in reefs and hauled up the little jib, but it just wasn’t that windy. On the beat out to Hein Bank, there was lightning and thunder, but they somehow missed the brunt of the wind. Zen has a carbon mast, and they were quite lonely out in the Strait by themselves, but at least they didn’t become a lightning rod. Sailing in 25 knots at the rounding, they put in a couple reefs and a small jib, and they hauled the mail to a 2 a.m. finish at the Burrows Lighthouse. Congratulations, Zen No Zen!
Spinnakers were flown when possible to fight the ebb, but anchoring was the best move.
Even with a drifter and proper crew weight, moving forward proved difficult.
RED RUBY PROJECT
LA TRINITÉ-SUR-MER TO CHERBOURG RACE
By Jonathan McKee
After a busy spring and early summer, I was finally on the plane to France for my three-race “Red Ruby Tour, Summer 2024 Edition.” After so much preparation, planning, logistics, trying to get things done, and entering races from halfway around the world, it would be so great to just go sailing again. My train from Paris to Auray was fast and on time, with barely a moment for my jet-lagged brain to go through my lists one more time before arriving in Brittany. I had just two days to organize the boat, put the extra gear in storage, prepare the sails, and start looking at the weather and tides. My partner for this 270-mile race was Olivier LeDiouris, a local who spent 20 years in San Francisco working for Oracle. He is a very good sailor who once raced with the legendary Eric Tabarly. Of course his French is excellent, useful for reading race documents and spotting things I might miss. His English is also
Photo courtesy of Alexis Courcoux/DRHEAM Cup.
The author and race partner Olivier get Red Ruby ready for the rigors of the English Channel.
very good, so communicating on the boat was no problem. He is the same age and in the same stage of life as I am, so we have a lot in common. He and his wife sailed their Cheoy Lee 44 to the South Pacific and back, and I knew we would have a lot of fascinating discussions around that.
The race course is from La Trinité-surMer on the Brittany coast to Wolf Rock off the western tip of England, finishing in Cherbourg in northern Normandy. With a mostly northwest wind, it should be upwind after exiting the Gulf of Morbihan and going up the Brittany coast to Ouessant, then across the English Channel, then back across the channel eastward via Eddystone Lighthouse, past the current-infested Casquets rocks and Raz Blanchard strait to Cherbourg. It’s 270 miles as the crow flies, but much longer because it is mostly upwind and downwind, with some reaching in the middle. Our fleet of 11 doublehanders was not the biggest, but it included a few of the top French boats that we always struggle to beat.
When race day came, we had a
reaching start, which should have been straightforward, but I got the positioning a bit wrong and we had to circle around at the last second. Soon we were on our way to La Teignouse lighthouse, just behind the top group. After 10 miles of reaching, we turned upwind for the 50-mile slog to Penmarch, the first major point. We found some good speed and positioning, and as the first night fell we were just behind Timeline for the lead, going upwind in 10 knots of wind, with Arthritis Foundation, Abracadabra 2, and Kestrel just behind. So far, so good! We both tried to get some rest that evening, because the next day was going to be tricky—negotiating the dreaded Raz de Sein stretch of water and Ouessant Island.
As day two dawned, most of the fleet was staying on a starboard tack, going offshore in anticipation of a left shift. We chose a more inshore route, eventually going inside the islands at Raz de Sein. Kestrel followed us, but we lost track of the rest of our group as they stayed offshore. Things looked good during that morning, with positive current and decent wind. But with the afternoon
came current against us and very light wind. Did we blow it with our inshore move?
Eventually we picked up the race tracker app on our phone, and we could see that the offshore group also had light wind. They were more upwind of us with the left shift, but we hoped that there would eventually be a right shift. We sailed fast all afternoon and into the night, crossing the English Channel on a port tack. As we approached the Cornwall coast in the breaking light, we finally started to get headed. An hour later we tacked, now laying Wolf Rock on a starboard tack. Our move paid off. We rounded the lighthouse first in our class, with our sistership Kestrel about 4 miles behind, and the others just behind it.
The reach to Lizard Point and Eddystone Lighthouse was uneventful. We were flying the Code Zero in 10 to 17 knots, great conditions for a Sun Fast 3300. As we approached Eddystone, I rigged the big A2 kite. The breeze had built to 20 knots and we took off onto the final 120mile leg to Cherbourg. The run started out promising, but the wind soon died
and we switched to the smaller A1.5. We could see Kestrel close behind, but we lost track of the others as they jibed to the south.
We had to choose how to manage passage of the Channel Islands and the Casquets TSS exclusion zone (an area of high shipping traffic that is off-limits). There are essentially three possible routes to the finish: north of the TSS (more miles away from the fleet), south of the TSS but north of Alderney Island (shortest, but lots of negative current), and south of Alderney (which looked pretty radical, but potentially offered current relief). Neither Olivier nor I had a tremendous amount of experience in this place, and we were both pretty tired after two and a half days of hard sailing. Further complicating matters, we couldn’t see any of the competition on AIS and we had no cell phone data, so no tracker info. Accordingly, we decided to
take the middle route.
The next five hours were spent running in 9 to 12 knots, jibing back and forth against the current and making progress toward the finish, which was now only 40 miles ahead. Little did we know, our competition was digging way south, getting current shelter in the lee of Alderney, and making up miles quickly. When we finally got a cell signal, we could see that we were in trouble. The three trailing boats were only a couple of miles behind. As dawn broke, we could finally see their spinnakers coming from the south.
We crossed Raz Blanchard in the final miles into Cherbourg, and all four lead boats were within a mile of each other. We were still in the lead, but there was a problem: We owed all three boats time under the IRC handicap system. We held the lead for the tight reach into Cherbourg Harbour, but as we feared,
our lead was not enough. Abracadabra 2 won easily on corrected time and Kestrel also squeaked past us. We beat Arthritis Foundation by 40 seconds for the final podium position.
It would be easy to devolve into what-ifs, as this was a race that we were winning and could have won. I have revisited the last part of the race many times in my head. Plain and simple, we used the wrong tactics at the end and got passed. Looking back, both Olivier and I were pretty tired, we were lacking important data, and we simply did not analyze the situation correctly.
On the other hand, we sailed a great race, made a lot of good calls, and sailed fast for three and a half days. Olivier and I had never sailed together and it was his first time on the boat. So to finish third in a long and challenging race, and to have a very positive sailing experience, I’m calling that a win!
Red Ruby sails upwind on an idyllic day on the English Channel.
43 FOOT ALUMINUM HULL KETTENBURG 1967
Sailboat rigged for extended cruising: AK and MX vet. Equipped with 4JH3E with two 120-amp alternators, Max Prop; Radar Arch; FourWinds Wind Generator; 300 watts of Solar Panels; 70 Amp DC Generator; 3000 Alpha Autopilot; Hasse Full Battened Main sail with Doyle Mainsail Cradle; Full Cockpit Enclosure; Profurl; 2 newer genoas and more.
1981 C&C 32 ready for day sails and coastal cruising. Low-hour Yanmar diesel engine. Moored in freshwater in recent years. Recent Upgrades: new batteries, new sail/ binnacle cover, new genoa UV cover. Other Equipment: chartplotter, autohelm, radar, VHF, anchors/rodes, sails and rigging in good condition. Transferable Moorage. Inquire about livaboard moorage if interested. Located in Lake Union.» Contact Byron Wong • (503) 908-3886
• seattlecc32@gmail.com • $17,800
1988 ERICSON 26
Ericson craftsmanship in a 26 boat with a 40’ attitude. Dodger, wheel steering, fin keel, spade rudder. Flexible interior sleeps 5 with double bed at 6’ headroom, dining table, propane stove, ice box & marine head. New in 2022; bottom paint, hull mounted transducer depth & speed indicator, batteries, halyards. Universal 10 HP diesel. » Contact Scott • (503) 267-5207
• richlifesmallspace@gmail.com • $16,250 $14,500
$14,000
OPUS 18’ IAIN OUGHTRED WEE SEAL
PNW pocket cruiser, okoume epoxy coated marine ply, furling jib, dbl reef main, full keel, open interior, two 7' berths, 3.5 Merc, galvanized EZ Loader trailer, solar/LED lighting, Garmin chart plotter. Always stored indoors.
» Contact Lee Bjorklund • (206) 523-4518
• leebjorklund@hotmail.com • $14,000
$65,000
CABO RICO 38 - REDUCED PRICE
Excellent boat for a couple to cruise. We have cruised her over 10,000 miles, and her previous owner sailed her to the South Pacific (Australia) and back. She has been well maintained over all that time. Easy to sail, comfortable, and safe boat to cruise. World class designed and built to the highest standards.
» Contact George P Leonnig • 1(503) 707-6062 • moctobi@gmail.com • $65,000
$72,900
CUSTOM 43’ EDSON SCHOCK KETCH (1973)
Professionally built of mahogany planking over oak frames, Debonair has been lovingly maintained. Extensive upgrades include new electrical and 75hp Yanmar. Consistently turning heads, Debonair is a seaworthy passage-maker, recently completing a 16,000nm tour of the South and North Pacific. From rig to sails, systems to safety, Debonair is voyage-ready. Details: porttownsendboatco.com or www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1973-custom-edsonschock-43'-ketch-8441971/ » Contact Vance Rucker • ketchdebonair@gmail.com • $72,900
BOATS FOR SALE
$115,000
PASSPORT 40 1983
World Capable Cruiser. Ready to take you cruising. Beautiful yacht. Cutter rigged with oversized rigging and extra cockpit winches. Lots of newer equipment; 40 hp Yanmar engine, autopilot, radar, stove/oven, watermaker. Cruise equipped; large sail inventory, windvane, heater, fridge/freezer. 2018, engine and power train refurbished at $20K cost. Orcas Island, WA. » Contact Tom Owens • (360) 632-8896 • svlandsend@yahoo.com • $115,000
Bruce Kirby (Laser, America’s Cup boats) designed Norwalk Islands Sharpies for himself. This seaworthy yawl is also ideal for NW gunkholing. 19’ well built pocket cruiser includes Torqeedo electric motor & battery, King saltwater trailer & small dinghy. Little use since launching due to owner health. Stored covered dry, Olympia. Email for Small Craft Advisor review of Poquito » Contact libba@pinchot.com • $9,000
$80,000
AT LAST! 2005 ALERION EXPRESS 28, SAIL NO. 304, AND HER 2010 CUSTOM LOADMASTER TRAILER FOR SALE
Standard rig: Main and jib. Volvo diesel saildrive, folding prop, full cushions, sailed in fresh water 2005-2010 and wintered inside, full cover (replaced 2022) to waterline. Porta-potti, butane cooktop, trailer built for boat to haul to WA. Located Lopez Island, WA. » Contact George F LeBoutillier • (419) 467-8140 • geosculler@gmail.com • $80,000
$79,900
ALAJUELA 38 MK 1
1977 Alajuela. Upgrades (2019 – 2022) include engine (Beta 43), Navionics Suite, Solar, standing / running rigging, roller furling genoa, main and staysail. Monitor self steering, new max prop 4 blade, new electrical switchboard and cabling throughout. Completed 12 month circumnavigation 2022-2023. Ready for more. » Contact Douglas Wertz • (509) 438-1151 • dougwertz55@gmail.com • $79,900
$42,500
1983 BABA 30
Designed by Robert Perry and built by TaShing. Cabin and topside painted with Awlgrip in 2015, new mast and standing rigging 2017. Repowered in 2001 with a Yanmar 3GM30 diesel. Dawn Treader has been well loved and well maintained, located on a private dock in Hansville, Washington. » Contact Bruce Cosacchi • (206) 819-7079 • pbc200606@yahoo.com • $42,500
$6,000
26' COLUMBIA MACH II SAILBOAT A CLASSIC!
It is time to sell our beloved family boat. Many upgrades over the years. Electronics- depth sounder, wind indicator. Force 10 kerosene heater. VHF radio. Sunbrella upholstery. Alcohol stove. Head with sink & holding tank. Upgraded rigging. Roller furler. Dinghy. Bruce Anchor. Spinnaker. Dodger with awning. Stern rail w/ built in ladder. 9.9 Mercury outboard. » Contact Robin McCain • burtonmccain@msn.com • $6,000
BOATS FOR SALE
$16,000
23’ OREGON DORY
Cool wooden boat with 90HP Yamaha. Low hours. Bottom is fiberglassed. All Oak construction. Built in 1981. Trailer included. » Contact Brian • (540) 252-9134 • briandevany@hotmail.com •$16,000 OBO
$12,500
ANNAPOLIS 44
Annapolis 44 hull and deck for sale. Project build your own sailboat. Hull and deck are in great shape boat is located in Arlington WA. » Contact Blair Matthews at (360) 631-7749 or Grant at (360) 466-5152. • bcmatt4@yahoo.com $12,500
$750
SAN JUAN ISLAND - FRIDAY HARBOR - 50' SLIP - MONTHLY RENTAL
50' slip available September 7 on San Juan Island (Friday Harbor). Hard to find location, and great slip. Great location, just 5 minute walk from ferry terminal in Friday Harbor. Lease term from September 7, 2024 to July 10, 2025. Photos available on request. First and Last month rent required. » Contact Mark Scheer • (206) 240-6978 • scheerlaw10@gmail.com • $750/month
slips available. May 1 - June 30
$15.00/foot
20’ to 55’ slips available.
MARINE EQUIPMENT
semi movable pads, ladder up to bow, stored in Portland. Need to sell. Please leave voicemail » Contact Mike Flynn • (206) 595-4596 • mikeflynn33@icloud.com • $4,000 OBO
MARINE EQUIPMENT
VESSEL MOVING
No ocean too big, no trip too small, no ship too large, no mast too tall, sail or power, we move them all!!! When you are ready, give us a call. Professional service since 1967. CappyTom@aol.com • (206) 390- 1596
70’ SANTA CRUZ 70 ’87
$379,000
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“WESTERLY” Completely updated. No expense spared. An excellent opportunity to obtain an up-to-date SC 70 and get sailing now. Sidney, BC.
52’ SANTA CRUZ 50 ’80
$179,000
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“OAXACA”Carefully engineered for speed and safety. She’s just waiting for you to enjoy the adventure and leave the others in your wake!
46’ HUNTER 460 ’00
$129,500
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“ALE ER RON” An extremely versatile yacht for liveaboard, easy daysails or serious ocean passages. All reasonable offers considered.
55’ ROBERTS 55 ’97 $169,000 “KOOK” Strong enough for the most demanding conditions, she can take you to the anchorages of your choosing.
NEW LISTING
53’ SOUTHERN OCEAN GALLANT 53 ’70 $139,500 “AUNTIE” Beautiful lines and superb proportions. No crew needed. This one completed a solo circumnavigation.
39’ NAUTOR SWAN 391 ‘84 $69,500 “SAGA” If you’ve been looking for a highperformance sailing yacht with a fine pedigree, here’s your chance.
37’ PACIFIC SEACRAFT PS37 ’87 $179,000 “STELLABLUE”Perfect ready-to-go cruiser. Fully equipped with the best of everything. One-year Santa Cruz slip possible.
NEW LISTING SANTACRUZ
36’ HUNTER 36 ’06 $89,500 “SOULSTICE”One of the roomiest 36’ sailboats ever built. Easy to sail. Large cockpit with deep storage locker.
Experienced sailors know the added safety that comes with good sailing performance: the ability to sail off a lee shore, to fetch a safe harbor that is dead upwind or to complete a passage within the available weather window. Waterbear, an Outbound 46, speaks to each of these requirements while also acknowledging the value of a comfortable environment in fighting fatigue when offshore and in enjoying new surroundings in a far-off anchorage. Designed by the late Carl Schumacher, the Outbound 46 has the solid construction and displacement that give a yacht an easy and forgiving motion; but her lines and design specification define those characteristics ... long waterline, moderate beam, high righting moment, proper weight distribution and efficient foils. Her elegant handcrafted interior and semi-raised salon fill the cabin with natural light, comfortable accommodations and superb load carrying capability to ensure the comfort of all who venture out from the confines of a safe harbor.
