January 2022 - 48° North by 48° North

34 THE DURACELL PROJECT

38 2 021 TOP 25

JANUARY 2022

26 LESSONS FROM A 10-YEAR REFIT

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JANUARY 2022

FEATURES

26 The Four Lessons from a 10-year Refit

Tips and tricks for tackling a major overhaul of your beloved boat.

48º NORTH

30 Cruising in Closed Waters

A cruising couple navigates British Columbia’s COVID protocols to reach Alaska. By Mac Fraley

34 The Duracell Project

From ocean racer to liveaboard cruiser, a legend lives on. By Janneke Petersen and Matt Steverson

COLUMNS 20 Close to the Water

No matter the boat size, the spirit of sharing is alive and well while cruising. By Bruce Bateau

22 Tech Talk with SeaBits

The benefits of having a drone aboard are many, but it takes practice to get great images. By Steve Mitchell

24 Beacon Background

The iconic Admiralty Head Lighthouse on Whidbey Island is a symbol of the PNW’s unique maritime history. By Lisa Mighetto

RACING 38 48° North’s 2021 Top 25

Our annual list of the top racing boats and crews in the Pacific Northwest.

44 Winter Vashon

Though cold and wet, the breeze turned on for a spirited run to the finish. By Stephanie Campbell

ON THE COVER: Mac and Jenny Fraley’s Alberg 37, Maya, sits on a pane of glassy water next to New Eddystone Rock in Misty Fjords, Alaska after a fast transit of British Columbia due to COVID protocols.

Background photo courtesy of Mac and Jenny Fraley.

CONTENTS

By Marty McOmber

JANUARY 2022

Editor

FRESH STARTS & NEW BEGINNINGS FOR 2022

A strong southeasterly wind whipped San Juan Channel into a frenzy as I tucked a single reef into Yahtzee’s mainsail outside of Friday Harbor. My bare hands had a tinge of numbness that I’d come to know well and rain fell hard on deck and in the water around us. Fortunately, this routine had become normal for our young family of four. January was in its infancy and, having spent the fall and early part of the winter living and cruising around the San Juan Islands, our crew had acclimatized to the weather while enjoying some of our favorite spots: Jones, Matia, Stuart, James, Blind, and Henry islands all made the cut. So too did stops in Roche Harbor, Fishermans Bay, East and West Sound, and English Camp. Yet, one place had eluded us, and we decided that in the new year it was time to make it happen — Patos Island. Sailing fast on a starboard tack, we made quick work of the 17-mile hop north past the west side of Waldron Island and on to Patos. When we approached Active Cove, we found it completely empty and a mooring ball waiting for us. Then, shortly after tying up and tidying the sails and deck, something unexpected happened. The once strong breeze abated, the rain stopped, and the clouds slowly began to split apart. After shedding our soggy foul weather gear, we loaded the dinghy with a pack of dry firewood we’d purchased that morning, along with beverages and the makings for s’mores, and made for shore. With a fire crackling and the sun working its way towards the horizon, Jill and I sat together on a log looking west towards British Columbia’s Gulf Islands and chatted about what the new year would bring. Being bigger on goals than resolutions, we devised a plan for the upcoming spring and summer that would have us racing Yahtzee in Swiftsure and Round Saltspring before cruising north through the Gulfs and on into Desolation Sound. They were big plans for our family, especially with a newborn and a two-yearold. But they felt attainable and, in the end, they were. Those adventures turned out to be some of the most memorable we’ve had. Now, with a new year upon us once again, it’s time to pull out a fresh calendar and plan some adventures on the water — and in doing so, 48° North is giving you an assist. You’ll find our yearly Seattle Area Racing Calendar (SARC) inside this issue and within it are a plethora of racing events that will get you and your crew rounding the buoys on summer evenings and sailing long distances around islands. Maybe you’ll even contend for a spot in our yearly Top 25 (see page 38) or move up a couple notches on the list this year. In between the many racing events in the 2022 SARC, try getting on the water in a variety of other ways, too. Cruise to an anchorage or area of the Salish Sea you’ve never explored before. Get non-sailors out on the water to share in your passion and possibly ignite theirs. Or volunteer at a local sailing organization to help others learn the joys of being on the water. Whatever it is, embrace the clean slate that a new year brings, be safe and enjoy the wonderful waters of the Pacific Northwest. Speaking of new…you may be wondering why you’re hearing from a different editor on this page this month. 48° North is thrilled to announce the birth of Joe and Kaylin Cline’s new crew member, Rowan Carol Cline. The sweet bundle of joy came into the world on Monday, December 13 and we’re already sizing her up for her first set of foulies. Join us in welcoming baby Rowan and giving a huge congratulations to Joe and Kaylin!

Volume XLI, Number 6, January 2022 (206) 789-7350. info@48north.com www.48north.com

Publisher Northwest Maritime Center Managing Editor Joe Cline joe@48north.com Editor Andy Cross andy@48north.com Designer Jacqie Callahan jacqie@nwmaritime.org Advertising Sales Kachele Yelaca kachele@48north.com Classifieds classads48@48north.com Photographer Jan Anderson 48° North is published as a project of the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery. Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628 48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best! We are not responsible for unsolicited materials. Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor.

SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS FOR 2022! $39/Year For The Magazine $75/Year For Premium (perks!) www.48north.com/subscribe for details. Prices vary for international or first class.

Proud members:

Andy Cross Editor 48° North

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

A MACHINE YOU’LL Love WITH EVEN MORE POWER SAILRITE® ULTRAFEED® LSZ-1 WITH WORKERB® POWER PACK Self-reliant sailors are never caught unprepared. Handle anything the waters throw at you with a sewing machine that can do it all.

TRUST THE ULTRAFEED ● Portable to go wherever you need it — even on the water. ● 1/4 horsepower — 2.5x more powerful than other portable motors. ● Zigzag stitch for stronger and more secure sail repairs and seams. ● Balance wheel and hand crank let you sew without electricity. ● Adjustable dial for your slowest speed control yet.

All the Power You Need

Letters

Model Shown Beta 38

Engineered to be Serviced Easily!

Response to the December 2021 issue of 48° North

Hi Andy,

Beta Marine West (Distributor) 400 Harbor Dr, Sausalito, CA 94965 415-332-3507

I subscribed to 48° North earlier this year and want to let you know how much I enjoy it and your articles about cruising with your family.

Pacific Northwest Dealer Network

Do you have any resources you’d recommend for learning / preparing for winter cruising in the Salish Sea?

Emerald Marine Anacortes, WA 360-293-4161 www.emeraldmarine.com

Thanks, Jim Schulz

Oregon Marine Industries Portland, OR 503-702-0123 info@betamarineoregon.com

Hi Andy, Just a quick note to thank you and your staff for doing a great job with the presentation of the RAVEN feature. I enjoyed putting the piece together, and have already had a variety of nice comments.

Access Marine Seattle, WA 206-819-2439 info@betamarineengines.com www.betamarineengines.com

Deer Harbor Boatworks Deer Harbor, WA 888-792-2382 customersupport@betamarinenw.com www.betamarinenw.com 48º NORTH

Thanks again and best regards, Marty Loken

26 WINTER SHAKEDOWN

30 REFITTING RAVEN

34 REFLECTIONS ON A YEAR OF BOAT OWNERSHIP

DECEMBER 2021

I also wanted to rave about your terrific cover image (December 2021)! Haven’t had time yet today to read the feature, but that was one of the best winter-issue covers I’ve seen, to be sure.

Sea Marine Port Townsend, WA 360-385-4000 info@betamarinepnw.com www.betamarinepnw.com

JANUARY 2022

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

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News & Events

SAILING FOUNDATION TO HOST HANDS-ON SAFETY AT SEA SEMINAR FEBRUARY 13 US Sailing's International Offshore Hands-on Safety at Sea Seminar will be a "hybrid" course; students will first complete online modules, then do the one day hands-on training on Bainbridge Island on February 13, 2022. Once registration goes live, an update will be posted on the Safety at Sea page, and an email with a link to sign up will be sent out to the Safety at Sea mailing list (sign up to be on the mailing list on the Safety at Sea page at thesailingfoundation.org/what-wedo/safety-at-sea/). This course has filled up quickly in years past, and it's expected that this one will as well. If you want to attend, save the date, sign up to be notified, and then don't wait to register. Per US Sailing, ALL attendees that are seeking to receive the International Offshore Safety at Sea Certificate that meets World Sailing Guidelines for Personal Safety (either through a 2 day In-Person course with hands-on training; or the oneday Hands-on Only course; or a Refresher Course) MUST take the Online International Offshore Safety at Sea course (Units 11-15) prior to attending your course. NO EXCEPTIONS. This requirement was mandated by the Safety at Sea Subcommittee for any course held from January 1, 2021 onward. The seminars, designed and conducted by sailors, all experts in their fields, provide novice and experienced mariners with information and skills required to prepare for sailing offshore, boat preparation, handling heavy weather, recommended safety equipment, and emergencies at sea. The hands-on Sunday session includes training with in-the-water demonstrations, key survival tactics, crew overboard recoveries, flare procedures and helicopter evacuation. The session is accompanied by in-depth discussions and provides a logical preparation step for those sailors seriously preparing for independent, self-sufficient offshore sailing — both racing and cruising. Proof of COVID-19 vaccination will be required prior to registration. » www.thesailingfoundation.org 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

If You Hoist it, We’ll Help You Easily Furl it. Port Townsend Rigging and Harken: Together we’ll transform your sailing. Come see us at our booth 17 West Hall at this year’s Seattle Boat Show and, let’s talk the Harken line up for easily reducing sail!

48º NORTH

Headsail Furling for Cruisers — Introducing MKIV Ocean! At last, a bulletproof cruising furler featured for cruisers — at a less racy price. Headsail Furling for Racers — MKIV. Smooth, ball-bearing furling proven over thousands of miles. Easily converts for use with longer luff length racing sails. Free-Flying Headsail Furling for Everyone — One Reflex furler will furl your whole assortment of asymmetrical spinnakers, gennakers, and code sails completely. Top down or bottom up!

11 info@porttownsendrigging.com • www.porttownsendrigging.com • 360.385.6330J A N U A R Y

2022

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News & Events

SEATTLE BOAT SHOW CELEBRATES 75 YEARS OF BOATING IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST The 2022 Seattle Boat Show drops anchor Feb. 4 and cruises through Feb. 12 at Lumen Field Event Center and Bell Harbor Marina.

When the Seattle Boat Show sails into town in February, it will be the 75th anniversary of what began modestly in 1947 with 13 marine dealers pitching a tent on the shores of Lake Union. From those humble beginnings, it has grown into one of the most important boat shows in the country. The 75th Anniversary show, which runs from Feb. 4 to Feb. 12, will feature 255 exhibitors with more than 800 new and brokerage boats — indoors at Lumen Field Event Center and on the water at Bell Harbor Marina — and the latest in marine accessories and technology. In addition to being a place to shop for the boat of your dreams, the show has always been a celebration of boating and a place for boaters to rendezvous with friends, share boating memories, plan for summer adventures, and have some fun. The 75th show will be no different, with many fun promotions including:

It’s the perfect opportunity to meet, learn and get inspired by some of the most experienced and talented women boaters around. Visit Seattle Boat Show to print the complimentary pass. (Women are free at both locations. Seminars are at Lumen Field Event Center) ➤ DOGS ON DECK — THURSDAY, FEB. 10 There’s a special day at Lumen Field Event Center just for furry first mates. Their owners can make a custom dog tag at the on-site engraving machine and stop by the photo booth, have some fun with the props and enter to win the cover dog contest. The winning dog will be featured on the cover of a springtime issue of 48° North. Those arriving after 5 p.m. for Yappy Hour can take home a dog life vest courtesy of Connelly Watersports (while supplies last). Dogs are welcome every day of the show at Bell Harbor. ➤ BOATING AND FISHING SEMINARS Entertaining and educational, the seminars are always one of the most popular features at the show. New for the 2022 show is an online component. Attendees who can’t make all the in-person seminars on their list, or wish to revisit a favorite seminar, can watch the complete library of nine show days’ worth of boating and fishing seminars from the comfort of home for three months post-show. The $99 dollar seminar ticket package includes multi-day admission to the show (a $36 value) and a boatload of goodies, including a copy of the Waggoner Cruising Guide. Boat Show U classes will be offered as online webinars and are available to watch live (online only) during the show or ondemand until May 15,2022 with a seminar package ticket. This is an incredible value add to the ticket as Boat Show U courses were previously $55 each.

➤ 75 YEARS OF SHOW PHOTOS An historical photo display documenting the show’s moves from the Washington National Guard Armory to the Seattle Center Coliseum to the Kingdome, before dropping anchor at Seahawks Stadium & Exhibition Center (now Lumen Field Event Center) in 2000. The display includes a look back at boats and outfits through the years and classic promotions such as Boat Show Queen and Boat Show Family of the Year. ➤ CLASSIC YACHT DISPLAY Courtesy of the Pacific Northwest Chapter of the Antique & Classic Boat Society, boats on display will include a 1948 20 custom Chris Craft, a 1955 Chris Craft Capri and a very rare 1958-59 Chris Craft Silver. Fun fact: In 1959, Time Magazine described Chris Craft as the boat company most responsible for persuading Americans to take up boating. ➤ LONG PUTT CHALLENGE: FRIDAY, FEB. 4 & FRIDAY, FEB. 11 Attendees can take a break from boat or accessories shopping, grab a beverage, and test their putting skills at the Long Putt Challenge located inside the Boaters Lounge. All who participate will take home a gift certificate to Flatstick Pub for a complimentary round. Those that sink a putt will win a gift certificate of at least $50 and be entered into a raffle for the grand prize.

➤ TICKETS ADULT ADMISSION: $18.00 9 - DAY PASS: $36.00 2 FOR 1 TUESDAY: $18.00 SEMINAR PACKAGE: $99.00 (Seminar Package includes 9 days admission to the show, a Waggoner Cruising Guide, a BOAT U.S Basic Membership, and 3-month access to the online seminar library, to re-watch all fishing, boating, and sailing seminars as well as Boat Show University classes.) KIDS 17 AND UNDER GET IN FREE.

➤ THE U.S.S. OPEN The inaugural Seattle Boat Show U.S.S. Open, a 9-hole putt putt course is an entertaining way to navigate the show. All mariners who complete the course will be entered to win raffle prizes.

A free shuttle runs continuously between both locations. For specific details about hours, exhibitors, seminars and attractions, visit www.SeattleBoatShow.com. NOTE: The show will be adhering to all State and local COVID-19 protocols

➤ WOMEN’S DAY: MONDAY, FEB. 7 Women can attend the show for free and enjoy a slate of seminars designed specifically for women, by women boaters. 48º NORTH

» www.seattleboatshow.com.

JANUARY 2022

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Business or Pleasure, AquaDrive will make your boat smoother, quieter and vibration free. The AquaDrive system solves a problem nearly a century old; the fact that marine engines are installed on soft engine mounts and attached almost rigidly to the propeller shaft. The very logic of AquaDrive is inescapable. An engine that is vibrating

on soft mounts needs total freedom of movement from its propshaft if noise and vibration are not to be transmitted to the hull. The AquaDrive provides just this freedom of movement. Tests proved that the AquaDrive with its softer engine mountings can reduce vibration by 95% and structure borne noise by 50% or more. For information, call Drivelines NW today.

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JANUARY 2022

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News & Events 2022 VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW CANCELLED Due to a recent announcement by the BC Provincial Health Office restricting capacity limits in venues of 1,000 individuals or more to a maximum capacity of 50%, the Board of Directors of Boating BC, owners of the Vancouver International Boat Show, have made the unfortunate decision to cancel the 2022 Vancouver Boat Show. The in-person show is Western Canada’s largest boating event and was scheduled for February 9-13, 2022. Don Prittie, President of Boating BC, says “Although we are all incredibly disappointed, cancelling the show is the responsible thing for the association to do. I want to thank our partners across our industry and boating enthusiasts across the province for their ongoing support. We will evaluate in the New Year if we will host a virtual show, and advise our exhibitors, members and the public once a decision has been made.” For nearly 60 years the Vancouver International Boat Show has signaled the upcoming boating season in British Columbia, a region known as one of the premier boating locations in the world. » To learn more visit: www.vancouverboatshow.ca

MARINE WEATHER WORKSHOP IN PORT TOWNSEND Learn to read the weather before you head out on the water. Washington Sea Grant, WSU Jefferson County Extension and the Port of Port Townsend are sponsoring a Marine Weather Workshop in Port Townsend. Topics to be covered include weather charts, getting current weather, global winds, waves, atmospheric pressure and wind, strong wind systems, weather models, fog, coastal winds, and daily briefings. WHEN: Saturday, January 22, 2022 from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. WHERE: Marina Room Point Hudson Marina: Port Townsend, Washington FEE: $60 Due to limited space, registration is required. » Register at wsg.washington.edu/event/marine-weatherworkshop-in-port-townsend-2/ or Contact: Sarah Fisken, 206543-1225, sfisken@uw.edu

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In the Biz

NORTHWEST YACHT BROKER’S ASSOCIATION HIRES NEW DIRECTOR

each year. The boat shows will showcase yachts on-the-water in Chandler’s Cove, and also include shoreside components to feature products and services important to boat owners, and those in the marine industry. Rathkopf will also be tasked with growing association participation, and bringing added value to NYBA members. » www.nwyachtbrokers.com

The Northwest Yacht Broker’s Association (NYBA) has hired Schelleen Rathkopf to fill the position of Director of Operations, effective on January 3, 2022. In this role, Rathkopf will handle the management of NYBA events, sponsor procurement, marketing, membership services, and the day-to-day functions of the association office located in Chandler’s Cove on Lake Union. Rathkopf’s media career spans over 20 years in the Seattle market, where she has worked in TV, radio, and print. She is also the event producer of Race Week PNW, the 5-day sailing regatta in Anacortes, Washington, and has a long history of event management, sponsor procurement, and media sales. She will assist the NYBA Board of Directors and association members in the development of two 4-day boat show events that will take place on Lake Union in April and September 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

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48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

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Products News

» ICOM M510 VHF A longtime leader in the VHF market, ICOM has recently announced an upgrade from their M506 series to the M510 Class-D DSC VHF marine transceiver with wireless LAN function. The new M510 delivers class leading 10 Watt powerful audio output with a smaller design and microphone connectors on both the front and rear panel that gives boat owners more autonomy in how they install their radio. A wide angle color TFT LCD makes it easy to read and navigate the screen, which can be remotely controlled with a smartphone. A smartphone can also be used as a microphone and is compatible with the COMMANDMIC™ as well. Boaters will experience no interruptions while talking with M510's active noise cancelling, which digitally removes background noise from transmit and receive audio. An integrated AIS receiver and GPS receiver (with a switchable internal to external antenna) are standard features of the M510. Price: $599.99 » www.icomamerica.com

» RONSTAN SPINNAKER POLE ENDS If there’s one piece of gear aboard racing and cruising boats that you want to work quickly and smoothly every time, it’s your spinnaker pole ends. Ronstan’s new keelboat spinnaker pole ends are designed and built to do just that. They feature anodized aluminum bodies with grade 316 stainless steel hardware and are available to suit tube sizes from 50mm to 100mm. Quick and easy to operate, they are opened with an internal trip line and automatically close when the integrated trigger is depressed. Holes are provided to accommodate a shackle or rope loop for topping lift and foreguy attachment. The outboard ends fit standard 50mm and 70mm spinnaker poles and can be used with end-for-end spinnaker pole configurations or paired with one of Ronstan’s new inboard pole ends for a dip-pole setup. The inboard pole ends feature a durable acetal body with grade 316 stainless steel hardware and toggle dimensions suit typical mast hardware including Ronstan’s ball bearing car. Price: $320 » www.ronstan.com

» BOMBORA WANDERER PDF PFDs come in all shapes and sizes these days, and the Bombora Wanderer aims to be the most comfortable US Coast Guard-approved Class V Manual PFD on the water for power, sail and paddle sports enthusiasts. Unlike a traditional life vest, the ultra-slim inflatable Wanderer is designed for unrestricted upper body movement. Worn on the waist in front, it allows the wearer to trim lines, paddle or fish while barely noticing the PDF. When needed, a pull of the activation cord inflates the device with 16.5 lbs of buoyancy. Once deployed, the strap attached to the high-visibility flotation bag is simply slipped over the head. Rearming the PFD with a new 16gm CO2 cylinder and repacking it is fast and easy. The Bombora Wanderer was created for adults 16 and older. With a quick-release buckle and side adjustment, it fits chest sizes from 30 to 46 inches. An integrated zippered pocket and D-ring attachments are perfect for securing small items like keys and ID cards. The Bombora Wanderer comes in a variety of colors and patterns, simply choose your favorite! Price: Starting at $110 » www.bomboragear.com

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

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TAYANA 64 $559,000 - HAWAII 1960 SPARKMAN &C&C STEPHENS 45’ $69,900 - ALAMEDA, CA 20012005 40-FT64' 121 $129,000 — EMERYVILLE, CA

1976 65-FT FLUSH$129,000 $499,000 1963 RESEARCH YACHT $250,000 — SEATTLE, WA 1978 41' CUSTOM ISLAND STAYSAIL KETCH $65,000 - POULSBO, 40' SABREWILLARD 402 $219,950 -DECK EMERYVILLE, CA HANS CHRISTIAN CHRISTINA - EMERYVILLE, CA 1999 ISLANDTRADER PACKET 380 $165,000 - EMERYVILLE, CAWA 1989 43’1998 SAN FRANCISCO, CA

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1975 42’ WHITBY KETCH ALAMEDA, CACACA 1960 45'36-FT SPARKMAN &STEPHENS CUSTOM - VALLEJO, 1997 CATALINA MK II$80,000 $76,000$59,000 —- EMERYVILLE,

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W W W. R U B I C O N YAC H TS .C O M JANUARY 2022

Crossword and Trivia

18 1

11 13

King Charles I of Spain, who in 1518 commissioned Ferdinand Magellan’s voyage of discovery, was only 18 years old.

14 15

On August 10, 1990, the spacecraft Magellan landed on Venus on the anniversary of the day Ferdinand Magellan’s ships set sail from Spain in 1519 on the first circumnavigation of the earth.

20 21

Among provisions on Magellan’s expedition were 10,000 fishhooks.

ACROSS

Food was so scarce on Magellan’s voyage that men were forced to eat the leather off the ships’ rigging.

1 Naval rank 5 Heavy, strong rope 8 Platform for a lookout 10 Schuss, e.g. 11 Retired, abbr. 12 Pearl source 13 Deck boards

George Vancouver joined the British navy at 13, and at 15 joined explorer James Cook on Cook’s second voyage (1772-1775), then was a midshipman on Cook’s third voyage. A day before Cook was killed by natives in Hawaii, Vancouver had survived an attack by them. Cook and four of his crew were killed.

DOWN 1 Place where boats can be tied up 2 Secures a ship 3 Oxidized 4 Side of a ship sheltered from the wind

Dutch explorer Abel Tasman named New Zealand after the coastline of Zeeland in the Netherlands.

5 California island

14 Hawaiian necklace

6 Sheltered area along a shore

15 Call to a mate

7 Departs

17 Crustacean often stuck on a ship

9 Drenched

21 Color of the sea, sometimes

In 1614, Dutch explorer Adriaen Block discovered the Connecticut River. Block Island, Rhode Island was named for him.

13 The "p" in mph

22 What a fish uses to breathe

14 Peninsula or bay, for example

23 Sides of a river

16 Of the Atlantic, for example

24 Eight-armed sea creature

18 Three-masted ship

26 Boater

19 Joins, as the Navy

27 Campers, for short

20 Striped fish 23 Chesapeake, for example

 Solution on page 48

by Bryan Henry

The Columbia River was named after a ship. It was named after Captain Robert Gray’s ship, the Columbia. He was the first European explorer to sail up it May 12, 1792.

DID YOU KNOW?

Robert Ballard, whose most famous discovery was the Titanic in 1985, also in 2002 discovered PT 109, the patrol torpedo boat commanded by John F. Kennedy, near the Solomon Islands. Ballard also located the German battleship Bismarck in 1989, ancient Roman ships off Tunisia in 1997, and the USS Yorktown in 1998.

25 Beach souvenir

Fernando Columbus, son of Christopher Columbus, wrote a biography of his father in the early 1500s. 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

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Close to the Water

TRADE

GOODS

SHARING IS CARING WHILE CRUISING by Bruce Bateau

It’s hard to compete with a chicken — but I felt like I needed to after being invited for dinner aboard a sizable motor cruiser near Johnstone Strait. Having served a few drinks and an appetizer, my host turned to the oven (a luxury to me) and pulled out a roasted chicken. I was momentarily struck speechless. “Where did you get that?” I stammered. “Oh, we’ve got a freezer down below,” he said casually. That’s when I felt the need to reciprocate with something equally special. At 18-feet, Row Bird is not equipped for culinary feats like roasting a chicken — or even a piece of one. Still, I was prepared for this moment. Sailors of big boats may not realize it, but when packing for a small craft cruise, tough choices must be made. There’s limited space to stow essentials while leaving room to sail or row comfortably and safely. After accounting for water, safety equipment, weather duds, sleeping gear, and food, I turn my attention to the final item on my packing list: trade goods. What are trade goods? I consider them to be any non-essential, yet socially critical item taken on a voyage. These are the things I share when I feel compelled to compete with a chicken. From my earliest days on the water, I’ve been struck by the kindness and hospitality of my fellow sailors, who’ve offered me everything from fresh banana bread on a cool morning, to 48º NORTH

a tow, to drinks at sunset. So even on an overnighter, I make a point of bringing something I can offer too. I don’t know who I’ll encounter, or when, but I’ve experienced the goodwill that even the simplest trade goods invoke on a quiet bay, miles from the nearest store. During my first ever cruise, a three-week rowing trip, I made small refrigerator magnets with a woodcut image of my boat Terrapin set amidst a sea of waves. A stack of them took up less room than a deck of cards, yet produced smiles and provided a great conversation starter when I met new people. Over the years, I’ve tried a variety of small, sharable items with mixed success. Sometimes I’ve brought along bags of dried apples. After all, fruit prevents scurvy, right? Some welcomed this treat, while others eyed my home-picked and preserved fruit with trepidation. Shortbread looked attractive, and its sprinkles sparkled in the cute glassine bags my wife gamely tied with ribbons. But despite a long shelf life and high caloric value for fellow rowers, they tended to get crushed, and those little bags ended up resembling small sacks of flour, rather than valuable trade goods. Ginger snaps, on the other hand, I discovered are pliable enough to stand up to abuse, look nice, and stay fresh for a long time. I’ve handed them out in little bags and straight out of a big plastic tub, always to enthusiastic audiences.

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A stalwart on even the shortest journey are my little homemade magazines (known as zines). Each one contains some of the best stories I’ve written, along with a smattering of my nautical photographs. Some years ago, I carried a handful to England, where one morning I was invited to row with locals on a traditional wooden Thames skiff. Boating on the serene upper Thames, where tidal gates control the flow, is a world of difference from the open waters of the Columbia River, and afterwards I was happy to share my zines with my London hosts, hoping they would enjoy my stories of Pacific Northwest adventures. Pre-Covid, on the last day of a long trip, I paused on the edge of the San Juan Islands. There I met a sailor on the dock at James Island State Park. After sharing a meal together, I realized I was completely out of my usual trade goods; wanting to be a good guest, I returned to Row Bird in search of a treat. As I dug deep in my forward locker, my hand found the edge of a forgotten cardboard box. It contained a packet of Canadian maple leaf cookies that I’d picked up a week earlier on Vancouver Island. It didn’t meet my high standards, but my new friend was impressed; after all the cookies were dry, intact, and had crossed an international boundary by human power. Not a single cookie made it off the island. Ultimately, it doesn’t matter what trade goods I bring on a voyage. As fellow boaters, we’re all looking less for physical objects, and more for the fun of spinning a good yarn and relishing the company of others who share our love of the water. Still, it’s nice to have something to share. In the case of that chicken meal, it was a stack of oat cakes from a curious family recipe, sort of a cookie without the sugar. They lack visual pizazz, but travel well and have an indefinite lifespan (much like waybread from Lord of the Rings). However, when slathered in honey, they’re simply unbeatable — and my host found them as irresistible as I did the chicken.

A watercolor painting made a great trade good with fellow cruisers.

Bruce Bateau sails and rows traditional boats with a modern twist in Portland, Oregon. His stories and adventures can be found at www.terrapintales.wordpress.com.

The trade of a tow can be a welcome accomodation for small craft voyagers.

The author chats with possible trade partners in a Salish Sea anchorage. 48º NORTH

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Tech Talk with SeaBits

BENEFITS OF DRONES ON BOATS by Steve Mitchell explore via dinghy. Here’s an interesting look at Oro Bay from the sky, and how it matches up with features on a nautical chart. Oro Bay is located on the southern tip of Anderson Island about 14 nautical miles south of Gig Harbor. A lot of charts call both the outer and inner bays by the same name, but there are actually two distinct bays: a less protected one to the east, and the inner one to the west — our chosen spot for several days last fall. The challenge with Oro Bay is the entrance which, while not that difficult, can be intimidating if you've never been there before. The charts are also woefully lacking in detail both for the entrance and the bay itself. From the chart and when approaching the bay, you can see three important aids to navigation that mark the channel: red “2” and “4”, and green “3”. Red "2" should be kept well to starboard when entering, and you should pass in between the green "3" and red "4" buoys. It's also generally a good idea to avoid zero and especially minus tides for entering the bay, especially if you are a deep draft vessel. One of my favorite things to do with the drone is to get shots of water and land with the proper sunlight, light angle, and water clarity. This was especially useful in Oro Bay, given its somewhat tricky entrance. Getting a quality view from above provides a spectacular view of the shoreline, shallows, and contours underwater. In the image of the Oro Bay entrance (page 23 - top right) you can see the first buoy at the bottom and then the two

I’ve been flying quadcopters, more commonly now called drones, for over 10 years. Early on they were more of a fun hobby to build and fly, and less about quality pictures and video. In the last few years, that has completely changed, and you can now find drones in use on Hollywood movies and photography all over the place. I have taken lots of photos and videos with drones, but my favorites are bays and anchorages where you can enjoy the vistas and learn about the shoreline and depth contours. Having grown up in South Puget Sound, I spent a lot of time at various anchorages and spots that are still fun to visit. One of my all-time favorites is Oro Bay, and I was there earlier this year with some friends and had the opportunity to fly the drone and

Navionics chart of Oro Bay. 48º NORTH

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inner buoys near the center of the photo.What's really cool is how clearly visible the shoals are beside both sets of buoys. If you have a drone, I highly recommend trying this when you anchor, but it takes some practice. And I suggest getting comfortable taking off and landing on land before flying it from your boat. FLYING FROM THE BOAT Flying a drone from a boat is a bit more challenging than from land for a few reasons. First, many drone vendors have “return to home” technology that relies on the GPS location from where the drone takes off. While at anchor, this will change the minute the drone has left the deck and your boat rotates in the wind or current. If you take off and your boat swings 10 or 15 feet, Oro Bay entrance with buoys circled. the home location will remain in that spot and your drone won’t know you’ve moved. You should don’t try to force a landing. If it’s not going well, back make sure to either disable this feature, or use a feature some vendors have that uses the GPS location of your off, re-adust, and try again. Obstacle avoidance is also something I’ve found very phone or the drone controller as the home point to return to. Second, there are a lot of other automated technologies problematic, but not in all situations. Usually, I take off from within drones that, while helpful to prevent accidents, can the stern deck of Rendezvous, which is very open to the back prevent you from having safe takeoffs and landings on a boat. of the boat. But there is an arch forward of the deck that drones These include things like automated landing/take offs, obstacle get confused by as they rise up off the deck and start throwing avoidance, and more. It’s important to be familiar with all the all sorts of errors. It’s easy enough to back away, but it can be features your drone has, what situations they will be used in disconcerting if the boat is moving and the drone starts to do automated things that you didn’t anticipate. and, if possible, how to turn them off. On sailboats, it can be a lot more complicated to take off Automated landings can go terribly wrong when the drone is descending slowly and the boat rotates in the wind. Takeoffs and land mainly due to the standing and running rigging, mast, are less of an issue since you can just jet up and away from and boom. Learning how to take off and land manually and whatever is rotating towards you, but still a bit more risky. avoiding reliance on the obstacle avoidance feature is almost Almost all drones allow you to takeoff and land manually, and required to use a drone on a sailboat. A controversial but sometimes necessary skill to learn when it is a good thing to learn how to use these features. I always land my drones manually and have to abort landings at least flying a drone from a sailboat is the hand launch and catch 50% of the time because of obstacles, the boat moving, or takeoff/landing. The safest way to do this is with two people other reasons. Again, the more you practice, the better you’ll — one person operating the drone, and one person as the get at landing in these situations. And my best advice is, catch and release specialist. It requires an experienced pilot, a lot of courage from the person catching the drone, and the understanding of how to catch and hold it so that it stops fighting them. Practicing on land is a good way to ensure you don’t end up with injuries. Learning to fly a drone safely from a boat isn’t hard and the rewarding perspectives you’ll gain in places all over the Pacific Northwest are unique. Try it the next time you are in an anchorage like Oro Bay and you’ll be surprised to learn more about navigable channels, shorelines, and more. Plus, you’ll end up with some pretty phenomenal images!

Steve Mitchell is a long-time sailor, musician, and tech nerd who loves working on challenging problems. He is the editor of www.SeaBits.com and spends as much time as possible on the water, enjoying the smell of the sea and the sound of the waves.

The shoals near the red and green buoys are clearly visible from directly above. 48º NORTH

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Beacon Background

THE ADMIRALTY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE on Whidbey Island marking the entrance to this strategic waterway, became the site When cruising north from Seattle, I always look for the of the first lighthouse in Admiralty Head Lighthouse. There, on a windswept bluff on Puget Sound in 1861. The the west side of Whidbey Island, stands one of the prettiest original station included a beacons in Washington. The U.S. Postal Service agreed, two-story wooden structure selecting this structure to feature in its commemorative painted white, placed on lighthouse series in 1990. But the Admiralty Head Lighthouse 10 acres of bluff overlooking offers more than a lovely façade — it serves as a symbol of the inlet. The tower featured our region’s maritime history and the role of navigation in a fixed, fourth-order Fresnel Admiratly Head Light was colonization, commercial shipping, and national defense. lens designed to help ships avoid shallow depths as commemorated by the USPS on a stamp in 1990. THE ORIGINAL LIGHT STATION AND ITS KEEPERS they tacked through its Admiralty Inlet connects the eastern end of the Strait of narrow entrance. Juan de Fuca to Puget Sound. This is the ancestral home of Captain William Robertson was Admiralty Head Light’s Coast Salish Peoples, who have lived on Whidbey Island for first keeper. A “grey grizzled sea dog,” Robertson had sailed centuries. During the 19th century, the U.S. Lighthouse Board around Cape Horn, landing in San Francisco around the surveyed the inlet, noting its importance to commercial time of the Gold Rush before heading to Whidbey Island to sailing vessels carrying lumber, oysters, and other homestead with his family. He held the position for just a few goods from Washington Territory to the world. years. Robertson, according to an As a result, Admiralty Head, a promontory article in the Seattle Daily Times, “got his job because he was a Democrat and lost it because he was not a Republican,” which suggested the role politics played in lighthouse assignments. In 1864, Daniel N. Pearson assumed the duties of keeper, with his daughters Georgia, and later, Flora, serving as assistants. Georgia and Flora had arrived with the “Mercer Girls” who traveled on Asa Mercer’s first and second voyages – ventures intending to relocate marriageable women from the east coast to Puget Sound (later popularized by the television series “Here Come the Brides”). By all accounts, the teenaged Flora was very popular among lighthouse inspectors. Years later, the Seattle Daily Times described her as “the The Admiralty Head Lighthouse, completed in 1903, dressed for the holidays. perennial queen of Island women.”

by Lisa Mighetto

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She kept the logs in the early days of the light station, even after marrying Coupeville farmer William B. Engle in 1876. Notably, she recorded the birth of her son a year later in the logbook, and she became known for her “persistent” use of the spelling “Whidby” when referring to the island. Her father resigned as keeper in 1878, moving to a farm in Coupeville and Flora soon followed. The original lighthouse remained operational for only a few decades after that.

period during World War II when the U.S. Army used it as barracks, the light station stood neglected and in disrepair for decades. Vandals nearly destroyed the property. “Not a window remained intact in the building,” the Seattle Times wrote about the old lighthouse in 1959, “and some of the window frames had been stolen.” RESTORING AN OLD TREASURE During the late 1950s, the Washington Parks and Recreation Commission joined the Island County Historical Society in a major effort to restore the lighthouse. In addition to reconstructing the glass lantern room, these agencies repaired cracks in the brick wall, painted the entire structure, and acquired a fourth-order Fresnel lens for display. The restored light station was included in Fort Casey’s interpretive program and opened to the public. In 1980, the lighthouse was incorporated into the Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve as part of Fort Casey State Park. Today, the Admiralty Head Lighthouse — outside and interior — remains open to the public. And the next time you cruise by the west side of Whidbey Island, watch for a break in the trees just south of the open fields of Ebey’s Landing. You may be rewarded with a glimpse of this stunning beacon and remnant of Salish Sea history.

THE NEW LIGHTHOUSE Events thousands of miles away would determine the fate of the Admiralty Head Lighthouse. During the 1890s, the U.S. Army selected this location on Whidbey Island to establish Fort Casey — one of three Coast Artillery forts installed to defend the region. The sinking of the U.S. naval ship Maine in Havana Harbor in 1898 inflamed tensions between the United States and Spain, leading to the outbreak of the Spanish-American War and pointing to the need for defense of the U.S. coastline. Built at the turn of the 20th century, the three installations – Fort Casey at Admiralty Head, Fort Flagler south of Port Townsend, and Fort Worden at Point Wilson – formed a “triangle of fire” intended to repel enemy vessels entering Admiralty Inlet. The original wooden lighthouse at Admiralty Head sat on the spot where the Army wanted to establish a "disappearing gun" battery, and was relocated nearby where it was used for other purposes. In 1903, the Learn more at: https://parks.state.wa.us/505/Fort-Casey U.S. Army Corps of Engineers built the new — and current — beacon on the bluff at Admiralty Head. Carl W. Leick, a well-known architect of many of our Lisa Mighetto is a historian and sailor living in Seattle. region’s lighthouses, designed the new station. The structure included 18 inches of brick walls covered with stucco, built to withstand the blast of Fort Casey’s guns. It was painted white with green trim and a red roof. The fourthorder Fresnel lens from the original tower was installed in the lantern in the new structure which, unlike the original, featured a round, conical shape. A shed for whale oil and other fuel sat nearby, while a two-story keeper’s residence stood attached to the tower. Inside were several bedrooms, a parlor, kitchen, and dining room — comfortable and modern accommodations by the standards of the day. Much of the station’s unique charm came from its Spanish-style architecture, evident in the arches, stepped parapet wall, and flourishes in the ironwork. The lighthouse’s service was shortlived. In 1922, after only 19 years, it was decommissioned, as steamships increasingly had replaced sailing vessels during the early 20th century, reducing the need for multiple aids in navigating the shoals of Admiralty Inlet. In 1927, the Lighthouse Service removed the lantern from the Admiralty Head Lighthouse, placing it at the New Dungeness Lighthouse This early 20th-century postcard shows the first occupants of the new lighthouse. on the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Except for a brief 48º NORTH

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THREE SHEETS NORTHWEST

THE FOUR LESSONS OF A 10-YEAR REFIT by Marty McOmber

t was a miserable February day in 2012, a gray slush friend Ethan Holson, who is a skilled craftsman in fiberglass dripping from the leaden sky as my wife, Deborah, and and boat repairs, we will build a new rudder and overhaul the I walked carefully down the dock at a marina in Poulsbo cockpit. If all goes well, it will be the last of the major “winters to take our first look at the 1984 Passport 40 sailboat that of work” that have taken place to refit this wonderful vessel. would soon be ours. I’VE LEARNED A LOT OF LESSONS DURING THIS REFIT JOURNEY She looked absolutely perfect. Maybe it was the lighting — or the lack thereof. Maybe it — FOR ME, THEY BOIL DOWN TO THIS: was the damp cold that quickly drove us down below, where ❶ Have a goal for what you want the boat to be and to do. For we didn’t linger too long because it was cold down there, too. us that meant a boat that would take us comfortably and safely It didn’t matter. We loved what we saw and we felt, in our on a long-distance cruise for up to a decade. bones, that this was the right ❷ Find a balance between boat for us. working on the boat and But she wasn’t perfect. playing on it. We’ve always Far from it. tried to wrap up major This winter, after nearly projects by the end of spring 10 years of ownership, so we could enjoy our boat countless projects large during the best months and small, and thousands of the year in the Pacific of miles under her keel, Northwest while learning she is closer than she has what we needed to do next ever been to that first vision in our refit. of perfection. ❸ Do as much of the work As I write this in early as you can yourself. You will December 2021, I’m learn so much about your preparing to take our boat and how to fix it when beloved boat, Rounder, up to you get your own hands Tools used to chisel out steel trim ballast that had rusted and Anacortes for a three-month dirty and need to problemswelled under the cabin sole. haulout. Working with our solve and troubleshoot.

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❹ For projects that you can’t work on yourself, find trusted advisers and professionals. Experts who are willing to share their knowledge — whether in a book or website, or by letting you work side-by-side with them — will save you more money and hassles in the long run than you will pay them for their services. I’ve learned that I’m one of those folks who enjoys the challenge and problem-solving involved in maintaining and improving a boat. Maybe not as much as I love the sailing and cruising part, but enough that I’m more than willing, even after 10 years, to roll up my sleeves and dive right into yet another project in pursuit of that vision of perfection. Without this strange predilection, I’m not sure all we have accomplished would have been possible. In greater detail, here are how these four lessons have worked for us: HAVE A GOAL FOR THE BOAT We didn’t really know what we were in for when we purchased the boat, which in hindsight was a good thing, since there is no way we would have signed up for the amount and cost of the work involved if we had. But we also don’t regret the decision, because we now have a boat that we know literally inside and out. We’ve laid hands on each and every major system and have poked, prodded and, in some cases, replaced structural pieces. The first thing we did right with our boat is that we had a very clear plan for what we wanted her to do — take us safely and comfortably long-distance cruising. She would need to be capable of crossing oceans and taking us off-the-beaten-path cruising for up to a decade. All of our decisions about projects, equipment and approaches stemmed from that basic vision. When we purchased the boat, we had a thorough survey done and a list of need-to-do projects right off the bat. But we also knew that we had a boat with very solid bones, even if many of the systems were nearing their end of life and the boat’s fit and finishes were badly faded. Fortunately, the previous owner had just repowered the boat, so at least putting in a new Yanmar engine was not on the to-do list. After clearing the list of projects from the survey, we spent that first summer intimately getting to know our new-to-us boat. That process was invaluable.

Deborah strips varnish shortly after purchasing the boat in 2012.

USE THE BOAT By using the boat, we had an opportunity to really learn what worked well for us and what we felt needed improvement. And in each subsequent year, we cruised long and short distances, seeking further opportunity to stretch ourselves as cruisers and to stretch the boat. We called this process “dialing in the boat.” Not only did it help us determine what we wanted to fix or improve, it also helped us prioritize the forthcoming projects. Through this process, we learned a few things. We learned just how awful the boat’s sanitation system was. The head was unreliable. The hoses were permeated and run through a maze of valves and jury-rigs. Also, the integral fiberglass holding tank smelled like there was a dead body stuffed inside. While we were fixing those issues, we figured 48º NORTH

As the refit nears completion, it was time to rename the boat from Meridian to Rounder.

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we might as well also renovate the entire shower and head compartment with new paint and varnish. We learned that the icebox wasn’t well-insulated and the fridge was dying. Since we needed to reinsulate and rebuild the entire thing, we decided to create both a refrigerator and freezer. And since tearing out the old icebox meant removing the tired countertops, we replaced those and put in a new, larger single sink (instead of the double sink the boat came with) and faucet while we were at it. We learned that fixing any electrical issue in the rat’s nest of wires that had developed over the decades was difficult — if not dangerous — and that the entire system needed to be overhauled. Since we were so deep into it, it made sense to also upgrade the distribution panel and reconfigure the nav station around it. And after removing some of the existing wire runs, we saw enough things that concerned us that we decided to go ahead and replace every wire aboard the boat. We learned that the freshwater system was original, the clear plastic hoses fouled with years of build-up. So it was out with those hoses and in with Pex tubing, modern connectors and a water manifold that provided flexibility for selecting which tank to use and options to use freshwater for flushing a watermaker and adding a cockpit shower. We added proper filtration to the whole system and inspection ports in the tank for easy access and cleaning. We learned that the rig and sails would be OK for a few years, but they would definitely need replacing before any serious voyaging. By sailing the boat, we had a good sense for what we wanted in new sails and what type of sails worked best

for us. We also knew what pieces of equipment worked and what didn’t. The chainplates were suspect (and turned out downright scary when I finally pulled them). The traveler didn’t travel under load. Many of the turning blocks and much of the running rigging was tired, and boy, did that mast and boom need some new paint. We decided that the tired teak overlay on the side decks needed to go — for no other reason than to make sure that hundreds of screw holes into the deck core hadn’t caused any delamination. And the hull, with weeping spider cracks in the filler below the toerail and its splotchy, banged-up appearance that resisted any and all attempts to make it even slightly better, just had to be addressed. Today, the deck and hull look amazing. All of these projects are just examples of what we tackled while working our way from stem to stern and top to bottom over the past 10 years. DO IT YOURSELF As much as possible, I tried to tackle the various projects myself. From the start of the rainy season in November through the end of April and sometimes beyond, I have spent my weekends and free days puzzling my way through boat projects. Deborah took to half-jokingly calling herself a boat widow during those months, and she wasn’t wrong. But at least she was forgiving. During the week, I would pore over resources, post questions and research products as I learned new skills and approaches to make sure I was doing a project correctly and to high standards. I called these skills the “dark arts” of boating and would beam

A surveyor pokes holes in the author's initial vision of perfection soon after buying the boat. 48º NORTH

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with pride as I got the hang of basics like wetting out fiberglass, splicing an eye in double-braid line, crimping wire terminals and many, many more. I joked that I was slow and stupid, but at least I was cheap! The reality was that I had high standards and wasn’t about to take shortcuts or settle for “good enough.” At the end of the day, we would be the ones who would have to live with the results. By working on these projects, we quickly got to know the places and people in the local marine trades industry that we could rely on for good advice and quality support. Sometimes that support was provided face to face, with patient explanations and detailed answers to repeated questions. Other times, it was provided on the pages of websites and in books. EXPERTS WHO YOU CAN TRUST The common thread to those resources and people who I came to trust was that they had deep knowledge and they were willing to share it. I came to learn that many boaters never stopped to ask these experts to share their expertise. When I showed interest, they tended to open up and let me into their sometimes obscure worlds. It was wonderful. But even with patient support, many of the biggest projects required skill sets that would be difficult to develop without years of study and experience. From that, I learned it was important to recognize when I needed to turn to a professional to get the job done right. And here, too, I gravitated to those craftspeople who were willing not just to do the job I was paying them for, but who would encourage me to dive into the project with them and work side-by-side when possible. Engine mechanics. Rigging. Sailmaking. Fiberglass. In each area, I found people who were mentors as much as they were service providers. They shared their knowledge gladly and I hope they enjoyed my engagement in the project as much as I enjoyed learning from them. Paying for that help isn’t easy — like most folks, we too needed to scrimp and save and make other sacrifices to afford having a boat in our lives, especially one that we are slowly refitting. But the knowledge I gained from working with experts was invaluable and has positioned us to be more self-sufficient when we finally do get going on that long-distance cruise. This winter, I will be engaging in another masterclass in fiberglass with my friend and mentor Ethan and his assistant, Michael. I will get to learn how to build a proper rudder and a lot more about finishing and repairing gelcoat, among other things. We will puzzle through how to improve the rudder bearings and steering system. I’m really excited. When we relaunch the boat, she will be even closer to that vision of perfection, that mirage that tantalized us so many years ago. We’ve had to change so much about this boat, but as I look back now, I wouldn’t change a thing in how we went about it. Truly, those four lessons have guided us through it all.

Three Sheets Northwest is produced by Deborah Bach and Marty McOmber. You can find them sailing their Passport 40 around the Salish Sea and beyond. 48º NORTH

Gearing up to rebuild the refrigerator box.

Sanding the mast in preparation for paint. JANUARY 2022

CRUISING IN CLOSED WATERS A COUPLE NAVIGATES BRITISH COLUMBIA’S PANDEMIC PROTOCOLS TO REACH ALASKA

by Mac Fraley

he following is a story about cruising... more specifically, how COVID-19 completely and unexpectedly changed our cruising plans for the better. Throughout several splendid summers of cruising in British Columbia, my wife, Jenny, and I set our sights on sailing our 1980 Alberg 37, Maya, from Washington to Mexico. After a couple years of postponing those plans — mostly due to our lack of cruising experience — we finally felt like we were ready to make the voyage south in the fall of 2020. Unfortunately, when 2020 arrived, so too did the global pandemic. The craziness and uncertainty of the whole situation caused our southbound plans to evaporate. Instead, we spent 2020 in Anacortes continuing to work and prepare the boat for a departure to Mexico in 2021. Then, at some point in that first year of the pandemic, an idea took shape. Instead of waiting all summer to sail south with the

Maya in Frederick Sound, Alaska after their transit of BC.

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Coho HoHo fleet, why not spend the summer cruising in Alaska before heading down the coast to Mexico in the fall? Brilliant! And with that, we switched gears and started prepping for the northward journey through the Inside Passage to Southeast Alaska for a summer of exploring "The Last Frontier." This would be our first time to Alaska, and our biggest adventure to date with Maya. Our previous summer voyages had taken us to Desolation Sound, the Broughtons, and even a circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. We loved every bit of our BC cruising experiences. Now, Alaska was in our sights. After much preparation, on a beautiful sunny day in April, we shoved off the dock, giving up our slip and starting what would be our greatest adventure: first a 700 mile trip through British. There was one slight problem, though. The Canadian/US Border had been officially closed for a year and we needed to transit through British Columbia waters in order to reach Alaska. In April 2021, the initial shock of the pandemic had worn off slightly and a new seemingly pseudo-reality had set in. There were talks of the US/Canadian Border reopening, but that was on a month-by-month basis, and they kept extending it. On our launch date, the border was definitely still closed, but there was a gray area of that closure for boats transiting through Canada to get to Alaska (and vice versa). Like any good cruiser, we did our homework but we didn't find any concrete evidence to support that cruisers were absolutely guaranteed transit through BC enroute to Alaska. We had heard reports of some cruisers being let through, while others were turned away. It was a fact that terrified us. Our research seemed to indicate that it boiled down to the

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they were sure we had aboard), and after 15 minutes they reemerged from Maya, empty handed. At this point, the conversation shifted to our itinerary to Alaska. Our planned passage was to be a 14 day route (43 mile per day average) with us anchoring each night. They approved this plan, but warned us not to make any "unnecessary sightseeing detours." The agents also explained that we were allowed to stop at fuel docks for fuel or water and marinas should safety or weather become a concern, but we were to remain quarantined. And after more paperwork and instructions, we were given an orange piece of paper with a number on it, granting us passage through Canadian waters without being officially checked into the country. While the ticket was orange, it felt golden. We thanked them for their help and with a huge sigh of relief we pushed off the customs dock and motored to Montague Harbour where we dropped the hook for the night. We were officially through the trip's first major challenge: crossing a closed international border during a global pandemic. Our cruising plans were alive and well — with only 600 miles to go to Alaska. The next morning we moved on, passing Dodd Narrows, and anchoring in Mark Bay outside of Nanaimo. In normal years, upon arriving in Nanaimo, we would have spent the day exploring Newcastle Island, followed by a beer at the Dinghy Dock Pub. Alas, it was not to be. Rules were rules and we were thankful to be there... just passing through. And passing through is what we did. We raced up to Campbell River, through Johnstone Strait arriving in Port McNeill without seeing another American boat or a cloud in the sky for that matter. We had gotten extremely lucky with the weather, especially considering it was mid April in the Pacific Northwest. At Port McNeill, we briefly stopped

onsite border agent's discretion when we arrived. Attempts at calling the border agency were shot down by them explaining we needed to call no more than two hours in advance of our arrival into Canada. Our voyage’s fate would be decided on the spot. Frustrated, yet undeterred, we headed over to Sidney on Vancouver Island and awaited our fate. Arriving at the dock, we called the customs phone number and the operator arranged for two border agents to meet us. We were greeted by two very polite agents, both equipped with bulletproof vests, and facemasks. They asked us why we were coming into Canada, to which we explained our plans were to transit through to Alaska and that Maya was our fulltime residence. Upon hearing the news that Maya was our home, a noticeable change came over the agents — both of their dispositions seemed to relax. Maya being our "full-time residence" seemed to be the magic phrase. After discovering that we were "moving our house" to Alaska, the agents carried on with necessary paperwork. First, attesting that we didn't have COVID symptoms or had been in contact with anyone with symptoms. After they got a sense that we weren't actively sick from COVID, they proceeded with heavy interrogation regarding guns. "Do you have any guns aboard?" "No." "Have you ever owned a gun before?" "No." "Have you ever shot a gun before?" "Yes." "Are you sure you don't have any guns aboard? It's better to tell us now before we find them ourselves." "I'm positive we don't have any guns aboard." After questioning, they had us stand on the dock while they entered the boat and gave it a thorough search (for the guns

The crew of Maya lucked out with beautiful weather while heading north through the Strait of Georgia. 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

Greeted by orcas, Maya wasn't always alone while heading to BC.

at the dock to refuel on diesel and fill up our water tanks. We wore masks, so did the attendant. While heading to the office to pay, we chatted with the attendant about the weather and how little traffic there was due to the border closure, but besides the masks, it was a totally normal fuel dock experience. We anchored outside of Port McNeill that night and then motored towards the top of Vancouver Island. It was only then, as we arrived on the southside of Queen Charlotte Strait, that our fair weather gave out, forcing us to spend several nights in Clam Cove — a small inlet on the northside of Nigei Island. Our time there was spent listening to our anchor chain scrape across the rocky bottom as we looked at derelict sinking boats at one end of the bay while keeping an eye out for horror movie serial killers in a rundown (also sinking) floating resort at the other. Not a soul to be seen around. There were also martinis, if I recall correctly. After the storm, we wound our way (gleefully, I should add) out of the snaking entrance to Clam Cove and made the jump across Queen Charlotte Strait. The sea state was a little messy from the storm but after a long, rolly day we were through Cape Caution and arrived in Fury Cove on Penrose Island. By this point, the weather forecast was showing a major storm in the coming days. Armed with this knowledge, we decided to race as quickly as we could to Prince Rupert, where we planned

Finally able to slow down, Maya hangs on a mooring in Misty Fjords, Alaska. 48º NORTH

to hunker down in quarantine with the glories of cell reception. Over the next three days, we covered 227 nautical miles arriving in Prince Rupert just as the last bit of sunlight was fading from the sky. Hours later, the wind picked up and, to our great disappointment, we were slammed with waves. Unfortunately, the one exposed direction of our anchorage in Pillsbury Cove was the same direction the wind was blowing from. We endured the waves and kept a keen eye on the lee shore a few hundred yards away. Fortunately, our Rocna 20 anchor held strong. Our patience paid off and after 24 hours the wind let up enough for us to zip over to Cow Bay Marina. At the marina, we were warmly welcomed by the harbormaster and spent the next two days waiting for the storm to pass — all the while finding new leaks in our boat (the storm would bring a total of 6 inches over three days). After the storm passed, we had a very gray and misty, but otherwise uneventful, passage across the notorious Dixon Entrance to Foggy Bay, which concluded our cruise through British Columbia — global pandemic edition. We’d done it! Now in Alaska, we spent the next two and a half months exploring this amazing cruising destination before turning south and returning to Washington on a non-stop, 6 day passage from Craig, Alaska to Neah Bay, Washington... but all of that is a story for another time.

A calm passage up Princess Royal Channel, BC.

JANUARY 2022

At the time of this writing, it's been roughly 7 months since launching from Anacortes and Maya is currently in San Diego making final preparations before heading into Mexico. Reflecting back on our trip through Canada, and the uncertainty of the border closure, I can't help but recognize what a great example of real world cruising that was. We had a plan, there were complications, we researched and prepared as much as possible, but at some point, without being positive of the outcome, we pressed on — choosing to deal with and adapt to whatever situation arose. That's cruising in a nutshell. And while that area of "uncertainty" is not comfortable, neither is cruising all the time. It's that unknown and discomfort that allows for those brilliant and beautiful moments. The exhilaration and excitement we experienced of just being allowed to pass through Canada was only because we went and faced that uncertainty head on. The script was being written right then and there, and that's what we love about cruising. On the water, you are writing your story each and every day. And when you think about it, who wants to read a book where you already know the ending?

Mac, Jenny, and their dog Disco have spent the last 3 years living aboard, refitting, and cruising the PNW on their sailboat Maya. They are currently in Mexico. Follow Cruising Maya on YouTube, Instagram, and Facebook. www.cruisingmaya.com

Mac and Disco keep watch while underway in BC.

Racing the last bit of sun to get to Prince Rupert.

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THE DURACELL PROJECT: PART 1

FROM OCEAN RACER TO LIVEABOARD CRUISER, A LEGEND LIVES ON by Janneke Petersen & Matt Steverson

he last time we checked in with 48° North, we were cruising on our 1980, 39-foot sloop, Louise. I think we were in Tahiti when we sent a snapshot of our lives to this beloved publication. We were about halfway into a 2-year cruise that took us from Seattle to Baja and the Sea of Cortez, across to the Marquesas, Tuamotus, Tahiti, then north to Hawaii, and back home to the Pacific Northwest. We returned in the late summer of 2019 only to begin a whole new adventure of the maritime variety — although this adventure takes place on land. Namely, in our backyard in Port Townsend where we have become landlubbers for the moment. In a recent bout of nostalgia, I was re-reading the blog that I kept for friends and family during our cruise. Specifically, it was amazing to read my last post because the dream that was just a twinkle in our eyes back then has now come to fruition. What’s changed for us since then? Let’s time travel for a moment, back to the summer of 2019 to our last anchorage, and location of my last blog post, before the 3-week passage home to find out:

Duracell blasting along under full canvas in the Pan Pacific Race en route to a first place finish. 48º NORTH

NAWILIWILI BAY, KAUAI (SUMMER 2019) The end of the cruise doesn’t really feel like a hard and final end because the cruise has fundamentally changed how JANUARY 2022

we want to structure our lives. It has set us on a path. We’ve started to reflect a little, here and there, about how the last two years have changed us. Mostly we talk about how the cruise has made us realize that anything is possible. We can, and we should, live our dreams, and if those happen to go against the societal grain, there’s no rules against that. And if you tend towards relishing being unconventional, as we admittedly do, it’s a bit of a thrill. We’re dreaming and scheming of a future in which we live, somewhere in the Salish Sea, on a boat powered by solar, wind and hydro that Matt has built himself (more on that in a bit). We both want to work for ourselves so we’re able to try to find a balance between vocation and everything else life has to offer. We want to live minimally and frugally so that we can afford more free time. Since we hope to work for ourselves, we hope to also be able to pull up our anchor and go exploring anytime. All of British Columbia and Alaska awaits to the north and the rest of the planet to the south. We’re both full of conviction to make this vision reality, though our dear friend Salty might read this and, with a roll of his eyes say, as he has said before, “Such bums!” Maybe he’s right. Currently, we’re both full of the energy that comes with taking the first steps toward a dream. For me, the dream is an idea that’s been taking shape since the beginning of our cruise. I want to create a program in which middle school science students create wildlife habitat in their schoolyards as a part of their science curriculum. For Matt, the dream is an object weighing 15 tons. Recently I have observed Matt at various times of the day and evening, sitting with a half smile on his lips, a twinkle in his eye, legs crossed and a Birkenstocked foot gently swaying and betraying an inner glee. I know during these times that he is thinking about “The Hull.” Matt recently took offense that I refer to it as The Hull. I asked him why this offends him and his indignant reply was that The Hull sounds so soulless. This is not just any hull. It has a storied past and hopefully a storied future with us. So let me tell you a little about The Hull. The Hull is actually a tiny bit famous. It was designed by Rodger Martin and built by Mike Plant back in the 1980s. After building it, Mike Plant sailed around the world on it twice, beating the American record for circumnavigation of the planet during the first Vendee Globe. The Hull is Duracell. There’s an excellent documentary, “Coyote: The Mike Plant Story,” about Mike Plant that features footage of Plant building and racing the young Duracell. Duracell was eventually sold to a sailor from Seattle named John. John raced Duracell in the Pan Pacific Race, coming in first place. He then began a solo, non-stop circumnavigation of the planet on Duracell, but somewhere near the equator he had a collision with a cargo ship (shudder) and was dismasted. Apparently the hull didn’t sustain much damage as the bowsprit took most of the blow. Duracell was then moved to John’s backyard in South Seattle where it has been for the last twenty-five years, being washed by the Seattle rain. Matt was surfing the Sailing Anarchy sailing forum recently when he came across John’s post with the title: “MIKE PLANT’S 48º NORTH

Mike Plant has Duracell powered up and ticking off the miles.

Sailing off San Francisco after John purchased Duracell.

Duracell was christened and raced under the name Northwest Spirit by her second owner.

JANUARY 2022

OPEN 60 ‘DURACELL’-What Next?” In the post, John went on to say: “I love that boat. I can’t imagine a more easily handled, sea kindly, safe, proven, shorthanded boat capable of sailing anywhere on earth. So a refit for a solo circumnavigator? Or shorthanded go anywhere?” Matt saw this post and immediately turned to me and said: “I found our next boat.” The wheels began turning. John is interested in a partnership to restore Duracell to glory and get her out on the water again. He is considering giving us the boat. This would all be in exchange for some sailing time once it’s all fixed up and launched. So you might ask: why this boat exactly? What makes Duracell so special? Matt says it’s because it’s the most solid, safe, well-built, fast boat out there that he knows of: a very special shell that we can make our home. In short, he wants to turn this legendary, old racing boat into a fast, comfortable, safe cruiser. He’s in love. He spends every evening drawing out plans, which completely absorbs him, only punctuated by occasional statements that are sometimes encouraging to me (“this is going to be the coziest boat in the world!”) and other times, a little alarming (“Ohh! It only weighs 30,000 pounds!”) According to Matt, we will be able to zip down

to the Channel Islands (for example) in five comfortable days. Seattle to Hawaii? A couple comfortable weeks. Hully cow (forgive me). Now back to the present: fall of 2021. Duracell is in our backyard, snug and dry under a bow shed that Matt built for it. Back when I wrote that starry-eyed blog post, we had no idea that it would take two years from first meeting John and Duracell to moving the boat to our yard. In short, it took some time to gain John’s trust that we are not just dreamers, plus a global pandemic slowed things a bit. But Duracell is in our yard now and about six months along in the process of being turned into our dream cruising vessel. We still pinch ourselves almost daily that Duracell is ours and that this dream project is happening. And boy is it happening. It’s full on. Duracell was built to win solo circumnavigation ocean races, so the interior is spartan to say the least. It has nothing that makes it a liveable, comfortable home (no galley, no settees, no quarter berths, no head). Basically, an unfinished interior — which is exactly what we want. A blank slate. And what was inside Duracell has now been removed. The first two months of The Duracell Project have mostly been removing stuff from the interior and exterior. We removed all

The authors built a shed over Duracell in their backyard to keep her out of the elements.

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JANUARY 2022

the original wiring, electronics, plumbing, batteries, tanks, an old DC distribution panel, old sails, and two engines. We’ve hauled several truckloads of stuff to the dump and there is a small mountain range of salvageable things in our carport that we will either sell or put back on the boat. Of all the things that came off or out of the boat, a few notables are: four petrified rats, lots and lots of outdated 1990s electronics including a weather fax, some 25-year-old sea water in the ballast tanks, a Yanmar engine, and an old Balmar generator. Removing the two engines was…a process. The engines were located under the cockpit and there was no way we could carry them out of the engine room and out the entrance. So, we cut out the cockpit floor. Then we built a series of gantries to get it out of the engine room and into the cockpit. From there, we moved it aft to the stern of the boat and used the biggest gantry to get it off the boat. And we did all this only dropping an engine once! There was, thankfully, no damage to the engine or the boat. We think that says a lot about the boat. We’ll try to sell the Balmar to add some dollars to the Duracell kitty and we’ll also sell the Yanmar or possibly convert it to a generator for a serial hybrid propulsion system. Then we cut out the rest of the cockpit, including the cockpit benches, the sides, and the aft ballast tanks. Now that the cockpit is gutted and there’s basically a gaping hole where it used to be, we can really start to envision how we will rebuild it. And we do have plans. We’ll tell you more about them in our next article, so stay tuned!

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Mike Plant aboard Duracell near Les Sables d'Olonne, France in 1990. Plant set the American around the world alone record of 132 days in the 1990/91 BOC Challenge.

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JANUARY 2022

48° NORTH'S

TOP 25

ith a mix of distance and around-the-buoy races, as well as single-race events and multi-race regattas, the qualifying races for 48° North’s Top 25 are a good representationrepresentation of sailboat racing in the Pacific Northwest. Scoring is on a percentage basis depending on the size of the class: 0% (did not finish) to 100% (first in class), where the event score = (Finishers – Place) / (Finishers – 1). Overall scores are an average of a boat’s best five finishes. There is no minimum number of races required to qualify. Multi-race events

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(like the Southern Sound Series) are scored as single events. This year, the #1 boat goes to the J/105 Creative, skippered by Al Hughes and Shauna Walgren. The Creative crew is well known among 48° North readers, as Al and Shauna both contributed race reports in various issues throughout the year. Al and Shauna are terrific sailors, but what they might be best at is consistently and enthusiastically getting Creative and a rotating crew of sailors out on the water enjoying racing in the Pacific Northwest. Especially noteworthy is the commitment from

Creative Al Hughes/Shauna Walgren J/105 CYC Seattle/Sloop Tavern YC Score: 100%

both Shauna and Al to empower women racers — it’s a unique and inspiring collaboration and has provided both great finishes on the racecourse and enormous benefit for the sailing community. They deserve both our heartfelt congratulations, and an equal thank you for their accomplishments in 2021! Everyone on this year’s 48° North Top 25 sailed exceptionally! It is always a privilege to present the list and offer our admiration and appreciation for those in the racing community who live it and love it, and sail so well. JANUARY 2022

Nefarious

Moose Unknown John Aitchison J/105 CYC Seattle Score: 91.9%

Different Drummer Charles Hill Wauquiez Centurion 40s CYC Seattle Score: 91.0%

Rush Philip Dean J/80 Sloop Tavern YC Score: 90.6%

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Reckless

John Sezer/ Emre Sezer J/80 CYC Seattle Score: 92.8%

Dan Randolph Farr 30 CYC Seattle Score: 96.7%

Elusive Jeff Whitney C&C 115 CYC Seattle Score: 90.3%

JANUARY 2022

TOP 25 QUALIFYING RACES FOR 2022

Here is the list of qualifying races for the Top 25 in 2022. Check www.48north.com/sarc for more details on when and where to go racing. Happy racing and good luck to all sailors!

Smoke Steve Travis Transpac 52 CYC Seattle Score: 88.3%

➤ SSSS Southern Sound Series

Absolutely Charlie Macaulay Farr 39 ML CYC Seattle Score: 84.1%

➤ CYCS Center Sound Series ➤ STYC Carol Pearl Blakely Rock Benefit ➤ WVYC Southern Straits Classic ➤ CYCS Puget Sound Spring Regatta (Big Boats)

➤ SYC Tri-Island Series

Dark Star

Jonathan McKee Riptide 44 CYC Seattle/Seattle YC Score: 84.1%

➤ CYCP Pacific NW Offshore ➤ RVicYC Swiftsure ➤ Race Week PNW - Anacortes ➤ CBSA Cowichan Bay Regatta ➤ BYC PITCH ➤ CYCE Foulweather Bluff ➤ CYCS Puget Sound Sailing Championship (Big Boats) ➤ SYC Grand Prix Regatta ➤ OIYC/FHSC Round the County 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

12 11

Peter Stewart Cal 33 Three Tree Point YC Score: 78.6%

Terramoto

William Weinstein Riptide 35 CYC Seattle Score: 83.8%

Lodos

Madame Pele

Tom & Nick Andrewes Davidson 29 Lopez Island YC Score: 72.7%

48º NORTH

Annapurna

Iain Christenson Farr 36 OD Seattle YC Score: 75.6%

Tolga Cezik J/111 CYC Seattle Score: 76.9%

Cherokee

Tachyon

Nicholas Leede Farr 39 Seattle YC Score: 71.2%

JANUARY 2022

Insubordination

Peer Gynt

Gray Wolf

Glory

John Buchan Transpac 52 Seattle YC Score: 70.0%

Sara Billey J/105 CYC Seattle/ Sloop Tavern YC Score: 68.8%

Vitesse

David Steffen Beneteau First 36.7 Bellingham YC/ CYC Bellingham Score: 68.5%

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One Life

David Miller J/99 CYC Seattle/ Sloop Tavern YC Score: 70.4%

Lenny (Buckey) Rezabek J/105 CYC Seattle Score: 70.4%

Evgeniy & Jeanne Goussev Lyman Morse 40 Port Madison YC Score: 61.3%

JANUARY 2022

Discover San Juan Sailing and San Juan Yachting

Hamachi

Shawn Dougherty/ Jason Andrews J/125 CYC Seattle/Sloop Tavern YC Score: 60.8%

Evergreen studded islands, abundant wildlife & peaceful anchorages...beginner or experienced we can help you discover the world-class cruising ground in our back yard!

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Underdog

Lek Dimarucot J/80 CYC Seattle Score: 59.1%

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Time Warp

Peter Nelson Farr 395 CYC Seattle Score: 58.5%

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JANUARY 2022

WINTER VASHON 2021

• R ACE R EPORT •

COLD & WET, BUT FUN JUST THE SAME The race started on a light southerly chasing zephyrs and trying to decide whether to favor the Tacoma shore or cross over to Vashon. Early starts had more of a true southerly and favored the Tacoma side. Everyone had their turn scooting forward in a lucky puff, but sometimes that sent you directly into a big hole. On the Evelyn 26 Nimbus we tried to stick close to our competition but inevitably the big boats kept rolling through and scattered us. It didn’t take much to get left in the dust. Later starts had more of a southeasterly breeze that they brought with them to the rest of the fleet, upon which we all started connecting the dots toward the Vashon shore. The challenge was to stay on the favored side of Colvos Passage and get set up for the predicted northerly, which was already well on its way. Things got a bit light in the transition zone halfway up the island, but once we saw the wind line approaching we could hardly get the #1 on deck and cued up fast enough. The northerly filled in and stuck around for the rest of the day. It wasn’t long before we were hiking out. Five layers of gear, three hats and big orange rubber work gloves made the cold conditions just pleasant enough. It turns out that you can trim a jib with big orange rubber gloves, but you have to keep your hands tilted up like a scrubbed up surgeon so the rain doesn’t roll off your foulies and right down into the furry lining. Trust me on that. We arrived at the north end of the island in the early afternoon, perfectly timed with ferries greeting us on both sides. We hoisted the kite, and the rest was history. Nimbus was lit up for the run, Damp foulies and cold fingers didn't ruin the day for Winter Vashon racers. all the way to the finish line at Tacoma Yacht Club.

Truth be told, I wasn’t feeling much Winter Vashon love as I drove two and a half hours in the dark pouring rain through flooded roads to arrive at Tacoma Yacht Club on that early Saturday morning. I was seriously questioning my life choices. In my heart I knew that it would be a fun day, but in my head I was considering new hobbies, like knitting for example. We all know sailors who say that they never do races with Winter and Vashon in the name — and they aren’t entirely wrong. But they aren’t entirely correct either. It turned out to be a fun day on the water, even more so if you were one of the boats that stayed in Tacoma after the race instead of heading back north. It didn’t rain all the time and most of the race was downwind!

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JANUARY 2022

It was all rhumb line all the way! We finished in the middle of a three boat sandwich on a line meant for only one, with the breakwater straight ahead. It was an exciting finish to end the day, and we were pretty darn thankful that the breeze held all the way. There were many noteworthy performances in Winter Vashon 2021. Not only sailing, but in team spirit and resilience. Ratfish and Blue Max were the only boats that raced doublehanded — no breaks for those guys. The Cal 40 White Squall had a decisive win in the Commodore’s Fleet.There were seven boats who did the race without kites in the Cruising Fleet, with a new boat taking the lead in the highly competitive “best name” category. Usually that competition is a dead heat between Steamy Windows and Jolly Rumbalow, but Salty Bitch was the clear winner this year. On Nimbus we jokingly called each other that for the rest of the day after hearing them on the radio. It was a big boat day in the overall results. Terremoto hit the top of the podium in the fast class and overall for the day. Annapurna and Freja earned the next two spots in PHRF2 and the overall. Scores are still TBD for PHRF3, but we know that Serhad Ataturk on Lodos won the spirit award in the fleet with his Santa hat! Grace E was the race winner in PHRF4, although it was Gardyloo that pegged the fun meter all day long. They brought the cheer and the noise to all who passed by. Standout performances in PHRF5 include the Olsen 30 Sidewinder winning the division and the little Viper Peril braving the elements with no cabin for cover and finishing in second. Rounding out the race fleet was PHRF7. Nimbus edged out the newly launched Point Bonita 27 Pell Mell by the skin of her teeth on corrected time. JJ Hoag was likely the youngest skipper, sailing Chinook to a third place in the fleet.

During the rainiest fall on record, you just have to embrace it. Our foulies were dampened, but not our spirits. Our fingers were cold, but not our hearts. Thank you to the volunteers at Tacoma Yacht Club who came out and braved the elements to provide us with a fun day on the water. Next up, Duwamish Head Race in January. See you there! By Stephanie Campbell | Photos by Jan Anderson

Jammin' glides along under asym looking for the next puff.

Conditions after the start made it tricky to get to the Vashon shoreline. 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL’S ONLINE

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JAN 20 Women’s Boatbuilding Panel SHE BUILDS: Wit & Wisdom From Three Port Townsend Woman Boatbuilders

FEB 3 Mimi George Voyaging Revivals of Oceania: How Ancient Navigation and Boat Building is Useful Today

FEB 17 Andy Stewart & Zach SimonsonBond Creating a Vessel Stewardship Plan MAR 3 Daniel Evans & Jesse Wiegel NWMC Adventure Races: 2022 Is Not Going to Suck

MAR 17 Susan Brittain - FREE BONUS LGBTQ+ and Finding My Way in the Maritime Industry

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Photo by Jan Anderson

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WESTSAIL 32 New engine, tanks, sails, head, roller furling. Many extras. Motivated seller has reduced price to $ 35,000 » Contact Dan Thoreson • Danthoreson@gmail.com (206) 290-9660. $35,000

SELL YOUR BOAT IN THE 48° NORTH CLASSIFIEDS! NEWPORT 33 1982 good condition, 25hp Universal diesel, Upgrades: New transmission, new B&G chartplotter, windlass, new plumbing with 22-gallon holding tank, replaced freshwater system, rewired interior lights with LED, rewired engine panel and controls, new mainsail and rolling jib covers, dodger, replaced propane system. » Contact Chris Fairbanks • (360) 647-1748 Chrisf07@msn.com. $27,500

48º NORTH

CLASSIFIEDS PRICE PER MONTH: $25 - Online | $45 - Online + Print Details: 75 words, 5 photos with online (1 photo with print) PURCHASE ONLINE: 48north.com/submit-classified

JANUARY 2022

MARINE EQUIPMENT

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

MARINAS

QUALITY SAILMAKING

LIBERTY BAY MARINA

RACE • OFFSH ORE • C RU ISE

40’ - 48’ - 60’ open slips. Great location in Poulsbo, WA Restrooms, Showers.

• 30+ years of experience •

ERIC TAYLOR

For More Information 360-779-7762 or 360-509-0178

360.775.0307 www.taylorsails.com erictaylorsails@gmail.com

Full service rig shop serving Puget Sound

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

Cliff Hennen

YAGER SAILS & CANVAS

(360) 207-5016 • (206) 718-5582

NW Sail and Canvas Makers

YAGERSAILS.COM

509.928.1964

CLUBS

Asymetrical drifters & spinnakers Classic Sails (Gaff, Sprit & Lugs) Performance furling & G-SpinnTM Sails Light Air Sails we design & make custom sails in washington state!

V E6327 SSSeaview E L M OV ING Ave NW

Gateway to the San Juans

www.evergreenrigging.com

FLYINGSAILS.NET

34’ - 50’ slips for lease/purchase

Free Wifi • Pumpouts & Showers • Fuel, Store /Café

2442 NW Market St. #94, Seattle, WA 98107

For more info call Mike at (206) 265-9459

48º NORTH

D M

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206-782-5100

Tim Huse 206-354-9039 tim@ballardyachtrigging.com

Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear

Standing Rigging • Running Rigging • Electronics Splicing • Furlers • Lifelines • Inspections • Plumbing Hydraulics • Troubleshooting • Power Boats, Too

Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons Spinnaker, Intro and Advance Racing Classes

1.5 inch =$60/month Business Classified ad 2016 March issue PROOF Ballard Yacht Rigging

CROSSWORD SOLUTION

90 Annual Dues - Reciprocal Moorages High quality sailing at the lowest cost

When you are ready, give us a call. Phone (206) 789-7350 Professional service since 1967. Fax (206) 789-6392 CappyTom@aol.com • (206) 390-1596 email jen@48north.com

BYR

www.semiahmoomarina.com

“Established in Ballard since 1976”

No ocean tooSeattle, big, no trip WA too small, no ship too large, 98107 no mast too tall, sail or power, we move them all!!!

Nancy Anderson - Seattle 206/669-0329 • sureritesigns@gmail.com www.sureritesigns.com

(360) 371-0440

SLOOP TAVERN YACHT CLUB

www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com 7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

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The Best Racing in the Northwest • On the Lake or Sound • Active Cruising • Reciprocal Rights Corinthian Yacht Club of Seattle 7755 Seaview Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98117 Phone (206) 789-1919 for information www.cycseattle.org

JANUARY 2022

INSTRUCTION

Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons Spinnaker, Intro and Advance Racing Classes Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear

206-782-5100

www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com 7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

Tethys

Offshore Sailing for Women Nancy Erley, Instructor

206.789.5118 nancy@tethysoffshore.com www.tethysoffshore.com

Please Support the Advertisers Who Bring You 48° North Ballard Sails & Yacht Repair................... 49 Beta Marine West.........................................8 Brion Toss.....................................................37 CSR Marine................................................. 46 Dakota Lithium...........................................13 Drivelines NW.............................................13 Doyle Sails Seattle.....................................15 First Federal Savings & Loan...................17 Fisheries Supply.......................................... 4 Flagship Maritime..................................... 46 Gallery Marine............................................13 Gary Engman...............................................15 Iverson's Design.........................................19 Jeff Brown Yachts ..................................... 50 Marine Servicenter................................... 56 Maritime High School...............................33 Northwest Maritime Center.............. 13, 46, 52 Northwest Rigging ....................................19

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Ballard Sails & Yacht Services new custom sails

rig tuning

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WHATEVER IT TAKES TO GET YOU BACK ON THE WATER 6303 SEAVIEW AVE NW 206.706.5500 INFO@BALLARDSAILS.COM 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

With offices in Canada, Washington, California, Florida, & the Philippines

info@seattleyachts.com

844.692.2487

www.SeattleYachts.com

Seattle Yachts is Now Your West Coast Hanse, Tartan, Moody, & Dehler Yachts Dealer & Broker!

2021 HANSE 458 - On Order to Seattle, WA

2021 Tartan 395 - On Order to San Diego, CA

2021 Hanse 388 - On Order to Anacortes, WA

2020 Tartan 365 - On Order Anacortes, WA - NEW MODEL

2017 Elan E4 - In Stock

2020 Tartan 345 - In Stock

2016 Fountaine Pajot 58' $1,350,905 Tom Mowbray 415.497.3366

2016 Moody DS 54' - 2 Available! Kenyon Martin 858.775.5937

2016 Jeanneau Yacht 54' $599,999 Patrick Harrigan 360.982.8682

Alameda, CA

ANACORTES 28th & R Avenue 719 28th St, Ste B Anacortes, WA 98221 (360) 299-0777

48º NORTH

Anacortes, WA

SEATTLE Shilshole Marina 7001 Seaview Ave NW, Suite 150 Seattle, WA 98117 (206) 789-8044

JANUARY 2022

Professionally staffed!

Open 6 days, Sun by appt.

(619) 224-2349 • Fax (619) 224-4692 • 2330 Shelter Island Dr. #207 San Diego, CA 92106 www.yachtfinders.biz • Toll-Free (866) 341-6189 • info@yachtfinders.biz

A Leader in Brokerage Sales on the West Coast 38' PEARSON INVICTA II ’66 �� $69,500

“JIGGER” Rejuvenated classic turns heads wherever she goes. Custom companionway, newer standing rigging and Yanmar diesel. A real treat!

70' ALDEN STAYSAIL SCHOONER ��$250,000 38' ERICSON 381 ’83 �� $39,500 “DAUNTLESS” Meticulously maintained “ALLURE” Well maintained with many by the same owner for over 35 years. upgrades. New 2020 Quantum mainsail See more at www.schoonerdauntless.com and furling genoa. roomy interior.

LI NEW ST IN G

“OCEAN WATCH” Priced to sell. Owner has moved ashore and would like to transfer ownership to a new deserving owner as quickly as possible.

33’ HOBIE 33 ’83 �� $19,500 33' RANGER 33 ’74 �� $11,900 “MAYHEM” Highly modified for offshore racing. Open transom, reinforced bulkheads, and much more.

23' AMERICAN MARINE ANGELMAN 23 ’61 �� $19,500

“SEA BABE” A true classic whose beautiful brightwork makes her a head turner. Gaff rig and club footed jib create a simple sail plan.

WLB

Whomeport A T E RforL helmsman I N E B trawlers OATS ®

26' NONSUCH 26 CLASSIC ’83 �� $23,500

“VANKEDISI” One of the sturdiest 26-footers ever built. Seaworthy, easy to single hand. Ample space for socializing.

WLB Brokerage boatshedseattle . boatshedtacoma boatshedeverett . boatshedporttownsend

“LE BEL AGE“ Great opportunity to own a classic racer/cruiser. Fun on the racecourse and room for a short cruise.

THINKING OF SELLING YOUR BOAT? LET US HELP!

LI NE ST W IN G

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36' CATALINA ’84�� $39,500

Power or Sail, we have buyers waiting! Call: 619.224.2349 or email: info@yachtfinders.biz Call our Pacific NW area agent Dan: 360.867.1783

Breathtaking setting, spectacular day!

SEATTLE - 206 282 0110 | PORT TOWNSEND - 425 246 5101

View our entire inventory of boats for sale at waterlineboats.com Ceremonies Receptions Rehearsals Contact us today venuerentals@nwmaritime.org 1974 SWFTSHIPS DINNER CRUISE FERRY

1986 REDUCED KNIGHT & CARVER 67 MY

NORTHWEST MARITIME CENTER 1972 REDUCED SOUTHERN MARINE 65 48º NORTH

2012 BAYLINER 315 EXPRESS CRUISER

431 Water Street Port Townsend, WA 98368 JANUARY 2022

quality yachts from swiftsureyachts.com Tired of yet another Pacific Northwest winter? Looking to start your cruising adventure tomorrow? Consider Samadhi V, a Tayana 55 ruggedly built for offshore cruising and located in the warm Mexican climate everyone desires this time of year. Nearly all major systems have been upgraded or replaced over the past six years of ownership. Samadhi is powered swiftly by a 150hp Volvo with 287 hours and a 6 Kw Kohler generator, both installed new in 2019. The three 290-watt solar panels and Silent Wind generator keep the 700 amp hours of batteries topped up for weeks at a time. As the water tanks become depleted, filling them is efficient with the 35gph Rainman watermaker. Samadhi is a capable passagemaker and easily shorthanded, made easier by the custom Monitor windvane. On deck, her clean, well laid out foredeck makes maneuvers smooth and safe. The cutter rig, Dutchman mainsail system and asymmetric spinnaker allow for a number of sail configurations depending on the passage. Below decks, she has a large main salon with 6-foot 7-inch headroom, and a three-cabin, two-head layout with separate showers. The accommodations are well-appointed for a family of five or six. Ample storage makes her desirable for extended cruising in remote areas, as she can easily store provisions for six months. Samadhi is ready for a new family to step aboard and start their future adventures immediately. – molly howe

Samadhi V 1988 Tayana 55 $325,000

price reduced

64 55 50 49 45 44 42 42 42 33 30

Tashiba 31 • 1988 • $89,500

Hylas 49 • 2001 • $379,000

Malö 39 • 2000 • $249,000

Pacific Seacraft 40 • 1988 • $289,000

Ker 46 • 2006 • $279,000

Hylas 54 • 2000 • $469,000

Morris 45 • 2000 • $425,000

Jasper 28 • 2019 • 395,000cad

Hinckley Sou’wester 42 • 1984 • $229,000

Frers Bieker Riptide Bestway Taswell Beneteau Lyman Morse Seguin Hallberg Rassy 42E Catalina Passport Beneteau First 10R Henderson

1978 1996 1986 1997 2018 1982 1984 1995 1981 2007 1997

$295,000 $325,000 $149,000 $275,000 $330,000 $199,500 $198,000 $119,000 Inquire Inquire $32,900

FIVE LOCATIONS TO SERVE WEST COAST YACHTSMEN Seattle (Main Office) Sidney, BC Bainbridge Island Anacortes San Francisco Bay Area

SwiftsureYachts

www.swiftsureyachts.com 206.378.1110 | info@swiftsureyachts. com 2540 Westlake Ave. N., Ste. A Seattle WA 98109 facebook.com/swiftsureyachts

NEW SAILING YACHTS FOR WORLD CRUISING 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

46' DUFOUR 460 GRAND LARGE 2016

West Yachts is Selling Boats!! Quality Sail and Power Listings Wanted.

SAIL: 46' Dufour 460 Grand Large 2016 42' Swanson 1986 41' Hunter Deck Salon 2006 41' Islander Freeport 1977 40' Contest Center Cockpit 1972 40' Island Packet 1997 39' Custom Cape 1979

41' HUNTER 2006

40' ISLAND PACKET 1997

38' Hunter 386 LE 2004 37' Tayana Cutter 1983 36' Cascade 1976 34' Catalina 1990 33' Bavaria 2006 32' Ranger 33 Sloop 1978 32' Catalina 320 1999 32' Catalina 1994 27' Com-Pac & Trailer 2004 22' Marshall Catboat 2008

38' HUNTER 386 LE 2004

32' CATALINA 320 1994

POWER: 72' Monk McQueen Cockpit Motor Yacht 1977 - Totally refurbished!! 52' Tiara 5200 Sovran Salon 2006 42' Custom Salmon Troller 1938 40' Ocean Alexander 1982 34' C&C Nelson Tayler Design Admiral's Lauch 1982 30' Willard Nomad PH 1973 26' Cutwater 2015

27' COM-PAC W/ TRAILER 2004

22' MARSHALL CATBOAT 2008

info@west-yachts.com 1019 Q Ave. Suite D, Anacortes, WA

(360) 299-2526 • www.west-yachts.com

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2022

Successfully serving clients for 28 years.

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2476 Westlake Ave N. #101, Seattle, WA 98109 • (206) 284-9004 Open Monday - Saturday 10:00am55- 5:00pm • Sunday by appointment NORTH JANUARY 2022

MARINE SERVICENTER Serving West Coast Boaters since 1977 At The Show - Afloat

Dealer of the Year ‘21 • ‘20 • ‘19 • ‘16

At The Show - Indoors

2023 Lagoon 42 #587: $749,580 • SAVE $20,465

2022 Jeanneau SO 440 #76258: $489,862 • SAVE $20,493

At The Show - Indoors

At The Show - Indoors Indoors at Lumen Field Event Center Afloat at Bell Harbor Marina

2022 Jeanneau SO 410 #76251: $389,852 • SAVE $16,435

2022 Jeanneau SO 349 #76257: $223,430 • SAVE $14,772

Arrives February

Arrives April

2022 Jeanneau SO 380 #76259: $328,390 • SAVE $3,500 Arrives May

2022 Jeanneau SO 490 #76315: $589,910 • SAVE $32,475 Featured Listing

Arrives Fall 2022

2022 Jeanneau Yacht 51: $794,790 • SAVE $30,894

2023 Jeanneau Yacht 60 • INQUIRE

2018 Jeanneau Yacht 58 • $849,500

Reduced

2019 Lagoon 40 - Loaded! • $549,500

Reduced

2006 Beneteau 51 • $199,900

New Listing

2006 SK 42 Pilothouse• $79,500

2016 Jeanneau 419 • $278,500

Seattle Sales & Service 2442 Westlake Ave N. , Seattle, WA 206.323.2405

1980 Nauticat 44 • $154,900

2000 Beneteau 50 • $149,500

New Listing

2016 Hanse 415 • $269,000

San Diego Sales & Service 2700 Shelter Island Dr., San Diego, CA 619.733.0559

51' Alden Skye ‘80......................................$135,000 47' Vagabond Ketch ‘83 ......... Reduced ...$184,000 41' Bermudan-Rigged Sloop ‘07 ................. $49,500 39' Nauticat PH Sloop ‘98 ............................... SOLD 36' Island Packet 360 ‘14 ................................ SOLD 36' Catalina 36 MkII ‘95 ..................... Sale Pending LISTINGS WANTED – We Get Results!

Bellingham Sales 1801 Roeder Ave, Ste 128, Bellingham, WA 360.770.0180

Dealers for: Jeanneau • Lagoon • Island Packet Dan Krier

Tim Jorgeson Jeff Carson

info@marinesc.com

www.marinesc.com

Greg Farah

Curt Bagley Jon Knowles