January 2021 48° North by 48° North

36 A PARTING DELIVERY

40 DESTINATION: HOME

JANUARY 2021

32 A N ADVENTUROUS BOAT PURCHASE

NEW

J/Sport - J/70 J/80 J/88 J/9 J/99 J/111 J/121 J/Elegant - J/112e J/122e

Shilshole Marina Sales Office www.sailnorthwest.com 206-286-1004

Alerion Express Series Yachts Ae20 Ae28 Ae30 Ae33

2019 Alerion Express 20 - $59,900

The All New 28’ J/9 - Order Yours Today

1994 HUNTER 29.5 $28,500 - New Listing!

1999 1D35 w/ Trailer $69,000

1983 CT38 $54,900

1986 Farr 1220 $149,000 - New Listing!

1983 Nauticat 44 $119,000

2011 Bestevaer 45St $450,000

Also D e4a8lºeNr sO R T H For

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Sailnorthwest.com - 206-286-1004 s a l e s @ s a i l n o r t h w e s t .J cA NoUmA R Y 2 0 2 1

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Fisheries Supply is Open for Business Your Way 4 8 In-Store, º N O R T HContactless, Curbside,

JANUARY 2021 or Same-Day Shipping. For 4 details and up-to-date info visit FisheriesSupply.com/open

JANUARY 2021

FEATURES 12 Seattle Boat Show Connected Preview

48º NORTH

32 The Winding Path to a Northwest 32

Taking delivery turns into its own unexpected adventure. By Indigo Bowick

36 A Parting Delivery

Letting go of a cherished boat on a final passage with friends. By Rhys Balmer

40 Destination: Home

This quaint South Sound cruising stop has a peculiar history. By Elsie Hulsizer

COLUMNS 24 Artist’s View - Secrets of the Salish Sea

Humpback Whale: Visiting our waters more frequently. By Larry Eifert

26 Close to the Water

Rowing to a mariner’s sanctuary — Hope Island Marine State Park. By Bruce Bateau

28 Galley Essentials with Amanda

Food prep for stormy seas with galley guest, Carol Buchan. By Amanda Swan Neal

30 How-to: Smooth Reefing for Smooth Sailing A look at various reefing systems and techniques. By Alex and Jack Wilken

RACING 44 Winter Vashon 2020

A fun, sunny run for this winter classic out of Tacoma.

ON THE COVER, This epic image of sailors Martin Gibson and Kyle Hadley was taken by photographer, Har Rai Khalsa, off Cape Mendocino while on a delivery from Friday Harbor to San Francisco aboard the Cal 40, Journeyman. Rhys Balmer shares the story on page 36.

Background photo courtesy of Jan Anderson.

CONTENTS

A new virtual format for this quintessential PNW event.

JANUARY 2021

Editor WHAT WILL YOU DO THIS YEAR?

2021, we’re counting on you! If ever we needed a fresh start, it’s this new year. The burning desire to turn the page is evident even among we sailors and boaters — a population that has had the ability to enjoy our chosen activity more than most throughout the pandemic. While working on this year’s Seattle Area Race Calendar (SARC) with our collective of race organizers around the region, I was struck by the unwavering positivity within that group. Had 2020 hurled rough seas at event planners and sailors? You betcha. Will there be challenges and cancellations in 2021? Yes. Is this dedicated group nonetheless unbridled with enthusiasm at the prospect of providing a full calendar of events and helping others have rich, varied, safe, and fun experiences on the water? Heck yeah they are! Laying out the calendar for the coming year left me feeling fueled by the boundless possibilities of the new season of sailing and cruising, even within the bounds of lingering pandemic related restrictions. It reminds me of how every sports fan is pretty sure their team will win before the season begins. The difference… we boat folk can all win, or at least we can have an unambiguously good time along the way. Even if the world is not entirely your oyster and you can’t go wherever you want with whomever you want just yet, think of what 2021 could hold. Trip planning itself is almost as good as venturing out to do something epic. How much time will you spend on the water? What will be your longest, farthest, or wildest cruise? Will you try your hand at something different like night sailing? What races will you be sure not to miss, and how will you prepare for them? Will you buy a boat for the first time, or upgrade or downsize to one that better fits your needs? What skills will you acquire this year, through effort, education, or experience? Will you learn to fly a spinnaker shorthanded, or even singlehanded? Will you teach yourself to splice your own halyards, docklines, or soft shackles? Will you learn how to trim your sails for another two degrees of point that makes a huge difference on a race course? Will you pursue something ancient like celestial navigation or something cutting edge like connecting all of your boat’s electronics systems into a new-fangled wireless display? Will you practice sailing on and off your anchor? Will you start tuning your own rig, or doing your own engine maintenance? And presuming (desperately hoping, anyway) that we can have increasing contact with friends over the course of the year — who will you bring into the wonders of life afloat? Who will you invite to join you for a long weekend cruise? What young person will you teach to steer the boat? What new friend will join your regular crew? Who will be your buddy boat(s) or tuning partner(s) this year? What old friend might you encounter on a quiet island dock during some idyllic post-Covid August evening? The community of boaters has been impressively unrattled by the pandemic, but we’re no less anxious to feel the freedom and joy of togetherness once again. So cheers to the new year and its wondrous possibilities. Whatever it may hold for you, may it bring you joy, connection, and fulfillment as only playing on the water in the Pacific Northwest can.

Volume XL, Number 5, January 2021 (206) 789-7350. info@48north.com www.48north.com

Publisher Northwest Maritime Center Managing Editor Joe Cline joe@48north.com Editor Andy Cross andy@48north.com Art Director Twozdai Hulse twozdai@nwmaritime.org Advertising Sales Kachele Yelaca kachele@48north.com Advertising Sales: Katherine Kjear katherine@48north.com Classifieds classads48@48north.com Contributing Editor Amanda Swan Neal Photographer Jan Anderson 48° North is published as a project of the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery. Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628 48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best, but submissions via mail or delivered in person are still most welcome! We are not responsible for unsolicited materials. Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor.

SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscription Options for 2021! $39/Year For The Magazine $75/Year For Premium Subscription (perks!) Check www.48north.com/subscribe for details. Prices may vary for international or first class.

I’ll see you on the water,

Proud members: Joe Cline Managing Editor, 48° North 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2021

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Get on board, call today. JANUARY 2021 WWW.ASPENCATS.COM | 360-668-4347

Letters

All the Power You Need

Beware of the Free Project Boat

To the Editor and Readers of 48° North, I am a long-time reader and fan of 48° North, and I offer this cautionary tale to anyone contemplating a “project” boat. I can now report that the restoration of Jet 14 sailboat hull number 246 is complete, but it took 18 years. Hull number 246 was past its useful life when it came into my possession. Large sections of planking had rotted along with the keel beam around the centerboard trunk. Despite cracked deck skin, there was something compelling about the boat with its faded varnished interior, clean lines, and yacht white exterior. I initially resisted the offer to take this “free” boat, recognizing at once the massive undertaking required to bring it back to life. If it were not for the pleading of my son, who was of high school age at the time, the boat would never have found its way into my garage. “Wouldn’t it be a great project for us to work on together?” For a while, my son helped me, but then he moved away to college. The project boat remained. Occasionally I would furiously practice my woodworking on hull number 246, but life and career kept getting in the way. My son graduated and took a job in another city. The project boat remained. Fifteen years later, having retired from my paying career, I realized that hull number 246 still sat unfinished in the north half of the garage. I needed motivation or this derelict would never be gone. At the time, the city of Seattle was struggling, with a massive tunnel construction project for our local Highway 99. The tunnel was suffering delay after delay. I thought, “surely I can finish this boat before the tunnel digging machine, known as Bertha, finishes the tunnel.” It was a race. Bertha and I became a close match. Sometimes I would get ahead and sometimes Bertha was ahead. In the end, I applied the last coats of varnish shortly after the final signage was installed in the tunnel. We now call hull number 246 “Bertha” and she looks great for a boat originally constructed in 1957. My son made a special journey home for successful sea-trials on Lake Washington. It can be done, but hear my warning readers, “beware of the ‘free’ project boat.”

Model Shown Beta 38

Engineered to be Serviced Easily!

Beta Marine West (Distributor) 400 Harbor Dr, Sausalito, CA 94965 415-332-3507

Pacific Northwest Dealer Network Emerald Marine Anacortes, WA 360-293-4161 www.emeraldmarine.com Oregon Marine Industries Portland, OR 503-702-0123 info@betamarineoregon.com Access Marine Seattle, WA 206-819-2439 info@betamarineengines.com www.betamarineengines.com Sea Marine Port Townsend, WA 360-385-4000 info@betamarinepnw.com www.betamarinepnw.com Deer Harbor Boatworks Deer Harbor, WA 888-792-2382 customersupport@betamarinenw.com www.betamarinenw.com

Jeff Uehling 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2021

Response to “Championship of Champions” Report

Make your boating dream come true.

Joe, With great amusement, I read Ben Braden’s very entertaining article about his experience at the Championship of Champions regatta. I could relate. My son, Will Nelson, and I qualified for the 2018 regatta after winning the Hobie 18 North Americans. It was, shall we say, a humbling experience. We, uh, “bookended” Dalton Bergan and Ben Glass’s firstplace performance. The best thing you can say about our performance was that we were consistent — consistently last! It didn’t help that we hadn’t done any research on the “notso-Ideal” 18. I remember getting our first boat assignment and asking myself questions like: “Where is the other hull? How do you trap out on this thing? What’s a spinnaker? We’re gonna need some big tools to get this mast to rotate!” Our practice day on Long Island Sound was fogged in, so no practice. Hey, no problem. We’re champs. What could go wrong? Friday morning greeted us with a brisk 20 knots. Uh-oh. We had the benefit of being on the steep part of the learning curve. By Sunday morning, the wind was starting to settle into a range that buoyed our hopes. We were on a mission. We are champs after all, and the one thing a champ hates is DFL! In championship style, it came down to the final race. We were able to beat a few boats that race and pull our sorry butts to a not-so-respectable 19th (out of 20). I pity the team we beat. What was impressive was Dalton and Ben’s performance. There were some heavy hitters there. I remember having breakfast with a 14-year-old skipper whose crew was a professional sailor with a household (sailing) name. Another racer was recently written up in Sailing World. So, it was particularly impressive to see Dalton and Ben sail for shore before the start of the last race because they had such a huge lead on this elite fleet that they could throw out the last race. Ben is right — the boat rotation is simply amazing. It takes an army of volunteers, but they miraculously manage to pull it off. All in all, it is a really fun regatta. We’d go back in a heartbeat to have our lunch handed to us on a platter again. We became better sailors through it (and a lot more humble!).

Now on display in Anacortes, WA Special Price $499,000

2020 Integrity 440 Sedan

a remarkable combination of style & comfort. Extremely well equipped.

Sincerely, Peter Nelson

THUNDERBIRD ARTICLE CORRECTION from the Editor: Special thanks to British Columbia based reader, Doug Lee, who called in to alert us of an error in the December 2020 issue. Indeed, we need to issue a correction to the Port Townsend Thunderbirds article. The designer of the Thunderbird is Ben Seaborn, not Nathaniel Seaborne. Credit to the author who submitted it correctly. We hope you’ll accept our puzzled apologies for somehow taking something that was correct and sending it out of our shop inexplicably bungled.

Call Today 360.293.9411 www.GatewayYachts.com • Anacortes WA 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2021

Best Harken winch pricing of the year. Ask!

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Port Townsend Rigging and Harken: Teaming up to transform your sailing: Attend Our Skills Building Clinics during the 2021 Seattle Boat Show — Online. Sign Up To Attend: www.porttownsendrigging.com

Electric Winch Options Convert Harken manual winches or go electric from day one. You have more options than you might suspect. Headsail Furling Introducing MKIV-Ocean. MKIV performance for cruisers. Traveler Design and Retrofitting Easier than you ever imagined. PTR Smart Jacks Layout and installing these “must have’s”.

info@porttownsendrigging.com • www.porttownsendrigging.com • 360.385.6330 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2021

low tides >> Seattle Boat Show Connected THE NEW VIRTUAL EVENT DOES WHAT THE BOAT SHOW ALWAYS HAS — CONNECT SHOPPERS WITH 180+ EXHIBITORS, LINK LEARNERS WITH EXPERTS, AND HELP THE BOATLESS FIND BOATS. Start Online. End up on the water. The tagline for the new format of this well loved event pretty well sums it up. The Seattle Boat Show is going digital this year, and it’s still THE place to go to shop for the boat of one’s dreams, compare boats all in one place, take advantage of exclusive boat show deals, attend seminars, network with other boaters, enter to win contests and prizes, and plan how, when and where to get on the water in 2021. The show will take place Thursday, January 28 through Sunday, January 31, 2021. There will be four levels of ticketing, starting at only $5 (Mate) and going up to $89 (Admiral) — each price allowing different levels of access to content, as well as value-adds like a Boat US membership, a Waggoner Cruising Guide, and a subscription to SEA Magazine. Attendees can view hundreds and hundreds of boats and accessories from the comfort of their couches and connect with the 180+ exhibitors via live text chat or by scheduling Zoom, FaceTime, phone, or in-person meetings for boat and product tours and to discuss special show pricing.

The three-dimensional show floor will feature the iconic Seattle Boat Show red carpet and allow boaters to simulate cruising the aisles. Many exhibitors will have a virtual porthole into their showroom floor and retail locations. Attendees can explore the 3D virtual scans and feel like they are visiting businesses around the region and getting a glimpse behind the scenes. The ability to connect with and learn from other boaters is another new and exciting feature. The Community Forum will have topic-based channels such as fishing, sailing, or cruising where boaters can chat, ask questions, and share tips and resources. With more than 100 hours of seminars and streaming content, attendees can learn and be entertained by the best of the best in their fields. Content includes:

BOAT SHOW TV

FISHING SEMINARS

New with the virtual show is Boat Show TV — 34 hours of live streamed entertainment hosted by KOMO TV’s Denise Whitaker (an active Northwest boater) and the Northwest Marine Trade Association’s Peter Schrappen. Boat Show TV will include: cooking demos by Chef Ethan Stowell on preparing his favorites from the sea; a behind the scenes look at the hit Denise Whitaker TV series Below Deck from Captains Sandy and Lee; a conversation with Daniel James Brown, author of the New York Times best-selling Boys in the Boat; Master Classes on preparing cocktails and coffee; chats with experts on cruising with your pet, exercise on board, and much more. Access to Boat Show TV is free.

Fishing seminars at the boat show have always been known as the place to learn from the Northwest's top-notch fishing experts. The virtual show will be no different and an added bonus is that some of the seminars will be delivered from the water — something previously not possible — allowing attendees to see the presenters' tips in action, not just theory. There will be 30 fishing seminars. New topics this Taichi Kitamura year include: • Squidding by Boat in Seattle: catch, clean, cook, and consume, featuring Chef Taichi Kitamura, executive chef and co-owner of Sushi Kappo Tamura, and Paul Kim of Seattle Squid Fishing Charters

BOATING SEMINARS

• Puget Sound Cutthroat Fishing

Thirty-four hours of boating seminars will run the gamut from the practical — anchoring techniques, sail trim, no impact docking, or diesel engine basics — to the inspirational, such as the Cruisers Panel talking about coconut palm beaches, passage planning, and making dreams a reality.

• Washington State’s Best Saltwater Fishing Opportunities • A four-part series on tuna fishing airing daily • Fishing in British Columbia, Canada • Seminars on fishing in Eastern WA and the Washington Coast

See page 18 for 48° North's Seminar Picks.

48º NORTH

Learn more at www.seattleboatshow.com

JANUARY 2021

Afl oa AT t - SH S. O La W ke ! U ni on

In do AT or s - SHO Ce W nt ! ur yL in k

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MARINE SERVICENTER Serving Northwest Boaters since 1977

JAN. 24 - FEB. 1

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2020 Island Packet 42 Motor Sailer : SAVE $70,000

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49' Trans Pac 49 ’86.............$169,000 u

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49' Jeanneau SO 49 ’05...........$284,500

51' Alden Skye ‘80.............$129,500 Re iNg

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53' Jeanneau Yacht 53 ’15....$389,500

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61' C&C ‘72 .......................$153,900

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51' Beneteau Cyclades ‘06 ��$199,900 51' Alden Skye‘83......$184,000 ‘80.............$129,500 46' Hunter 47' Bowman 47.............$160,000 ’97.............$169,500 45'47'Jeanneau VagabondSO Ketch ‘83......$184,000 47' Bowman 47 ’97.............$215,000 47' Vagabond Ketch ’06..........$199,500 460 ’01

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Quality Listings Wanted.

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44' Jeanneau SO 44 ’91 ��$119,00044' Spencer 44' Lafitte ’80 �� $89,500 43' Wauquiez 44' NauticatAmphitrite MS Sloop ’85 MS Ketch ’80....$185,000 42 Pilothouse ’06.......$124,500 ’84��$149,500 $132,500 42'44'SKNauticat 44 44 ‘73.............$40,000 44' Nauticat MS ’80 ...........$185,000

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42' SK 42 Pilothouse ’06.......$109,500 li Ne

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44' 40 Catalina 440 DS ‘05...$194,950 44'Christian Bruce Robert ’93........$38,500 37' 43' Jeanneau 43 DS ’05........$179,500 40' Passport ’84.............$149,900 Swan 371 ‘81...................$69,000 38' Hans MK PH ’80.....$72,000

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41' 36 Burnham & Crouch ‘63....$69,500 Island Packet 38 ’90 �� $139,500 40' Jeanneau DS ’98..........$99,000 34' Catalina 39' Nauticat PH ‘98..............$224,500 33'38' Wauquiez Gladiateur ’81...$35,000 35' Trident Voyager40’78..........$59,500 34 ’86..................$22,500 36' Bavaria ’02................$93,500

Shing Baba 35 ’85 �� $98,500 35' Trident Voyager ’78..........$54,900 33' Nauticat 32' Hunter ’02 �� $55,000 20'20'Laser LaserSB3 SB3‘08.. ‘08................... 33' C&C 35' 99 Ta ’05....................$82,000 33' Hunter 33 ’11..................$99,900 MS326 ‘85................$79,900 ................ $19,500 $19,500

See your boat listed here. 44' Bruce Roberts 44 ‘80. .......... $65,000 WE GET RESULTS 66' CNB 66 ‘21 �� Arriving SOLD 62' Lagoon 620 ‘20 ��SOLD 58' Jeanneau Yacht ‘18 ��SOLD 53' Jeanneau Yacht ‘15 ��SOLD 50' Lagoon 500 ‘12 ��SOLD 49' Jeanneau 490p ‘21 �� Arriving SOLD 49' 490 ‘20/’21 �� 2 SOLD 41' Jeanneau Island Packet Cruiser ’07$299,000 49' Jeanneau SO 49 ‘05............ SOLD 45' 450620 CC‘20.....Arriving ’98 ��SOLD 62'Hunter Lagoon SOLD 45' SOYacht 45 ’06 ‘18..............SOLD ��SOLD 58'Jeanneau Jeanneau 45' Jeanneau 45 DS ’08 � ��SOLD 50' Jeanneau 50 DS ‘11...Sale Pending 44' 44049p ‘21 ��SOLD 49'Jeanneau Jeanneau ‘07 .........$349,500 44' 440490 ‘21.................SOLD 49'Jeanneau Jeanneau '19....Sale Pending 44' Jeanneau 440 ‘22....Arriving SOLD 46' Jeanneau 469 ’15................SOLD 44' Jeanneau 44i ‘11................ SOLD 46' Lagoon 46 ‘20.......Arriving SOLD 43' 43 45 DS DS ’06...’08............SOLD Sale Pending 45'Jeanneau Jeanneau 43' Jeanneau 43 DS ‘05 � �� SOLD 44' Bruce Roberts PH ‘93 .....$38,500 41' Island Packet ’07...................SOLD 44' Jeanneau 440 ‘20.................SOLD 41' Jeanneau 410 ’21 �� 4 Arrive SOLD 41' Jeanneau 410 ‘20 2 Arriving SOLD 41' Jeanneau 410 ‘20/’21 �� 9 SOLD 41'Jeanneau Passport4141DS‘89....................SOLD 41' ’14 �� SOLD 41'Jeanneau Burnham Crouch '63....$69,500 40' SO&40.3 ‘07 �� SOLD 40'J/120 Beneteau 40 ’11..................SOLD 40' ’01 �� SOLD 40'Island J/40 Packet ‘90...............................SOLD 38' 38 ‘92 �� SOLD 40'Pacific Jeanneau 40937‘13................SOLD 37' Seacraft ’81 ��SOLD 40'Jeanneau LagoonSO 4037 ‘19....................SOLD 37' ‘01 ��SOLD 40'Islander Nauticat PH ‘85 .....SOLD 36’ Freeport PH............ ’78 �� SOLD 39'Bavaria Jeanneau 39i ‘07/‘08........2 SOLD 36' 36 ‘03 ��SOLD 38'Jeanneau Jeanneau 389 ‘20...Arriving SOLD 34' 349 ‘21 ��SOLD 38'Jeanneau Island Packet 380 ‘00...........SOLD 34' 34.2 ‘00 ��SOLD 33' ‘11 ��SOLD 37'Hunter Island33 Packet 370 ‘08..........SOLD 33' MS349 ‘85 ��SOLD 34'Nauticat Jeanneau ‘20... ..............SOLD 33' 99Grambling ‘05 ��SOLD 34'C&C KMV ‘74........$24,900 30' MkII ’91.................SOLD ‘90 ��SOLD 29'Catalina Island 30 Packet

eattle Sales Office Anacortes Sales Office Anacortes Boatyard Seattle Sales Office & Marina Bellingham Sales Office 206.323.2405 360.293.9521 360.293.8200 2442 Westlake Ave. N. 206-323-2405 1801 Roeder Ave. Ste. 128 360-770-0180

info@marinesc.com | www.marinesc.com 48º NORTH

info@marinesc.com | www.marinesc.com 13

Dan Krier Tim Jorgeson Jeff Carson Dan Krier

Jim Rard Patrick Harrigan

Tim JorgesonJ AJeff Carson NU A R Y Greg 2 0Farah 21 Bellingham

low tides >> Seattle Boat Show Connected BOAT SHOW UNIVERSITY Boat Show U this year will consist of 15 2-hour advanced seminars from some of the smartest boating minds in the business. Four classes a day will be presented for all four days of the show. Although not in person, attendees will still be able to ask the instructors questions and get responses during portions of the classes. A unique asset to the virtual experience, the courses will be recorded and can be viewed online until February 7 so attendees can be sure to see them all or re-watch segments with particularly complex information. Handouts can be downloaded and viewed later, or used as a checklist on your boat.

• Annie Feyerheisen, a Harborview nurse and liveaboard boater on common boating medical issues, how to resolve them and what emergency equipment should be on board. • Leonard and Lorena Landon, the managing editors of the Waggoner Guide, on the top places to visit by boat in Southeast Alaska. • Weather router, Bruce Hedrick on the many new weather products now available online and how to make them part of weather planning for a safe and comfortable cruise. • Captain Linda Lewis with techniques for boat handling on a twin-screw boat and how to use the advanced capabilities of the Navionics app on an iPad or other mobile devices.

Presenters and topics include: • Nigel Calder talking about electrical troubleshooting and how to eliminate expensive gensets for power generation on a boat.

All of the Boat Show U classes are included with Captain ($49) and Admiral ($89) tickets, an incredible value since, in the past, individual Boat Show U classes have been $55.

• John Neal and Amanda Swan Neal with tips for conducting long passages, based on their record as one of the world's most experienced offshore cruising couples.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE BOATS Being a boat show, the boats themselves are critically important! Attendees will have the opportunity to explore and experience the hundreds of featured boats in a number of ways. No doubt, it’ll be a little different than standing on deck in the West Hall at the event center, but both within the virtual show, and supporting it in-person at their own facilities, exhibitors are eager to help you learn more about their offerings and get you on the water this year. To be sure, the boats are every bit as exciting as ever! Many exhibitors are scheduling opportunities to view boats on an appointment basis in conjunction with Seattle Boat Show Connected. A good example is Marine Jeanneau 410 Servicenter’s “Get to Know Jeanneau” event that’s happening alongside their presence in the virtual show. Among numerous others, you can schedule an appointment to tour a new Jeanneau 410, which takes the scow-bow technology debuted on larger Jeanneau designs and applies it to a smaller, even more manageable package that is truly fun and impressive under sail. You may take a virtual tour or schedule an in-person viewing to see the brand new Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 at Signature Yachts. The boat that’s arriving in time for the show is just the third 40.1 in the U.S. and is the Pacific Northwest debut of Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 this anticipated new design. 48º NORTH

Sail Northwest is another dealer and broker that will be exhibiting at Seattle Boat Show Connected. By linking up with them at the virtual show, you can check out (or MJM Yachts 53zi schedule an appointment to tour) the extraordinary new MJM 53zi that just arrived in the Northwest. The virtual show certainly has its own unique benefits. Ryan Helling of Swiftsure Yachts points out that, from any dealer, there are offerings that won’t be available to view locally in the near future. As such, Seattle Boat Show Connected offers the best infrastructure yet for shoppers to have a Allrures 45.9 rich experience on a virtual tour of unique boats that wouldn’t normally be available to see at a typical boat show; while simultaneously connecting them with the local business that can help bring their dream of that boat to reality. In particular, he’s excited for the boat show audience to be able to learn more about the Allures 45.9. This unique aluminum-hulled design has already been sold to Pacific Northwest customers, but they’ve been sailing internationally so it hasn't been available to tour locally yet. The Seattle Boat Show Connected platform provides a unique way to learn more about a yacht like this.

JANUARY 2021

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low tides >> Seattle Boat Show Connected 5 TIPS TO GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR SEATTLE BOAT SHOW CONNECTED EXPERIENCE 1. It’s almost here, get organized for the big dance! In a good way, the 2021 Seattle Boat Show Connected is going to be like no boat show you’ve ever attended. Just like the in-person show, there are numerous moving parts that you need to keep track of. Familiarize yourself with the show site, seminar schedule, and exhibitor list in advance. One suggestion? Make a digital list of seminars you want to watch, boats that strike your fancy, and products that you’re in search of to make your boat or life on the water more enjoyable. Use this punchlist to guide you through the show, and make notes about what you learn in your digital document along the way. Keep adding to the list as the show and all its programs set sail! 2. Every tier of boat show admission is per household and allows you to access the Virtual Show Floor and free seminars. So gather your family, get some drinks and food ready, and binge on everything from seminars to tours of your favorite boats and products. With so much streamable content, it’ll be like a movie marathon, but better and boatier. Give it that event feel, even at home!

ADMISSION PACKAGES

3. Conduct Zoom meetings with accessory exhibitors by logging into Seattle Boat Show Connected from on board your boat. Want to know where a new watermaker or windvane might be installed? Get on a video call with the expert while you can show them your boat and they can give you tangible advice. 4. The show will include a wide variety of interactive activities for you to get involved in, play games, win prizes, and more. Don’t miss the “Activities” tab on the site in January leading up to the show as they unveil what activities will be happening and how you can participate. 5. Keep in mind, you’re not just getting the virtual show. Many of the Seattle Boat Show Connected exhibitors will be offering in-person events for small, safe gatherings at their marinas, showrooms, or places of business. Your ticket to the online event includes an exclusive invitation to all of these in-person activities as well. Follow the show’s event calendar for updates, and please connect directly with exhibitors before you visit.

The Seattle Boat Show is presented by Union Marine. www.SeattleBoatShow.com

ADMISSION PACKAGES Admission to the Show, Connect with Exhibitors, See All Boats and Products, Access Community and Promotions Watch All Live Streaming Boatingwith and Exhibitors, Fishing Seminars Admission to the Show, Connect See All (January Boats and28-31) Products, Access Community and Promotions

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Re-Watch Boating and Fishing Seminar Content Watch All Live Streaming Boating and Fishing Seminars (Jan 28 Feb 7) (January 28-31) Attend AllBoating Fifteen (15) Show University" Re-Watch and 2-Hour Fishing"Boat Seminar Content Classes LIVE7)ONLY ($825 Value) (January 28-31) (Jan 28 -- Feb Attend All“Sea Fifteen (15) 2-Hour "Boat Show University" One Year Magazine” Subscription ($16 Value) Classes - LIVE ONLY ($825 Value) (January 28-31) Re-Watch All Fifteen (15) 2-Hour "Boat Show University" One Year “Sea Magazine” ($16 Value) Classes Post-Event (Jan 28Subscription - Feb 7) Re-Watch All Fifteen (15) 2-Hour Show University" “BoatUS” Basic Membership ($24"Boat Value) Classes Post-Event (Jan 28 - Feb 7) “Waggoner 2021 Cruising Guide” ($34.95 Value) “BoatUS” Basic Membership ($24 Value) Ticket to the2021 2022Cruising Seattle Boat Show ($18 Value) “Waggoner Guide” ($34.95 Value) Ticket to the 2022 Seattle Boat Show ($18 Value)

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Editor's Picks: Boat Show Connected Seminars Part of what makes the Seattle Boat Show so popular every year is their excellent slate of educational and engaging seminars. Seattle Boat Show Connected is aiming to keep that tradition alive — even improve on it — with four days of programming including DIY, sailing, cruising, and lifestyle seminars. From the comfort of your home, you can watch seminars live, streaming on SeattleBoatShow.com, and chat and interact with other viewers. At most levels of registration, you can come back and rewatch some seminars if you missed them the first time. Out of the impressive lineup of seminars this year, here are some of our mustsees, which are a mix of standard seminar slots and Boat Show University offerings:

DAY 1 — THURSDAY, JANUARY 28

DAY 3 — SATURDAY, JANUARY 30

Spring Maintenance: Keeping it Alive with Mike Beemer 10:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Giving you practical DIY objectives and checklists, this course will cover many of the routine things you should do to keep your vessel ‘alive’. While many repairs can be costly, often, just some routine inspection and preventative maintenance can save thousands of dollars.

Offshore Cruisers Panel with Behan & Jamie Gifford, John Neal & Amanda Swan Neal, and Sarah & Will Curry 12:00 p.m. - 1:00 p.m. Chat all things cruising with this experienced panel of sailors. From voyaging during the pandemic and achieving selfsufficiency onboard to planning passages and much more. DIY Electrical Schematic With a Plan with Jeff Cote 4:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m. Perfect for the DIY-er looking to tackle your electrical system, Jeff walks you through the design process to create your boat’s electrical schematic.

Sail Inventory with Carol Hassse 5:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. Join world renowned sailmaker Carol Hasse for a virtual tour of Hasse & Company Port Townsend Sails and take a deep dive into what sails are necessary to have aboard for safety and relative comfort in winds from calms to gales.

Choosing the Right Battery Technology with Nigel Calder 6:00 p.m. - 7:00 p.m. A review of what is available in the lead-acid and lithium-ion worlds, their respective strengths and weaknesses, and their applicability to different types of boats.

No Impact Docking: An overview of how to dock without fear (or damages!) with Ace Spragg 7:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m. Northwest Maritime Center instructor Ace Spragg will use pictures, descriptions, and tips for successful docking strategies and how to practice them. No yelling! No leaping!

DAY 2 — FRIDAY, JANUARY 29

DAY 4 — SUNDAY, JANUARY 31

Shorthanded Sailing Techniques with John Neal & Amanda Swan Neal 10:00 a.m. - 11:00 a.m. Gain valuable insights on how to setup your boat and learn the procedures for addressing safety, overboard prevention, watch standing, storm tactics, and much more.

Diesel Engine Essentials with John Neal & Amanda Swan Neal 10:00 a.m. - 11:00 a.m. Get an overview of diesel engines and learn preventative maintenance and troubleshooting insights from their combined 77 years of offshore experience. A free handout highlights the essential components and resources of this seminar.

Safety: Basic Gear Cruisers Should Have on Board with Behan & Jamie Gifford 2:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m. Experienced sailors and circumnavigators, Behan and Jamie will share a tiered list to help you prepare for sailing offshore: what you must have, what you might consider, and what’s optional.

Cruising Local: Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands with Mark Bunzel 10:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Part of Boat Show University, this seminar will give you planning routes and tips to make the most of your time cruising Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands.

Tips and Traps: Cruising the WA/OR/CA Coast, Mexico, and South Pacific with Sarah & Will Curry 5:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. From botched projects to epic landfalls, find out what works and what doesn’t when you’re cruising the WA/OR/CA Coast, exploring Mexico, and setting sail west across the South Pacific. 48º NORTH

A Taste of the Navionics App with Linda Lewis 2:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m. Navigate safely with the popular “Navionics Boating Marine and Lakes” app by learning how to create and follow your own routes, read the charts, and more.

JANUARY 2021

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News & Events

REGISTRATION OPEN FOR TWO-DAY BOATING SKILLS AND CERTIFICATION COURSE WITH DECEPTION PASS SAIL AND POWER SQUADRON

MARINE SERVICENTER MOVES SALES OFFICE TO BELLINGHAM FROM ANACORTES Marine Servicenter is pleased to announce the opening of their new Bellingham Sales Office at 1801 Roeder Avenue Ste. 128 — part of Harbor Center (that houses the Port of Bellingham offices). Marine Servicenter has also secured premium display moorage at Squalicum Harbor for new and brokerage boats. The move to Bellingham, with easy access from I-5, will allow customers north of Everett more convenient access to view new and used boats from Jeanneau, Lagoon, Island Packet and others. Marine Servicenter Bellingham: (360)770-0180

America’s Boating Course, a two-day boating skills and certification course, will be offered virtually on Saturday, January 16 and 23, 2021, by the Deception Pass Sail and Power Squadron. Successful completion of the course will qualify individuals for the Washington State Boater Education Card now required for most boaters. According to state law, many recreational boaters in Washington are required to complete a boating safety course and carry a Washington State Boater Education Card. You are required to have a Boater Education Card if you fit the following criteria: you operate a vessel with a 15-horsepower (or greater) motor; you were born after Jan. 1, 1955; you are 12 years of age or older. The boater safety class not only meets Washington’s state requirements but can reduce the risk of accidents and injuries, and may save money on boat insurance. The classroom is virtual, and those registered will be sent information to sign in via Zoom. The boating course includes a comprehensive introduction to boating, covering boat types, boat engines, boat selection, and more. The cost to register is $40, deadline January 5, 2021. For a spouse or partner sharing the course materials, it will cost an additional $20. For more information, contact Steve Pye at stphnpye@aol.com or (360) 299-2244.

WEST COAST SAILING PARTNERS WITH OVINGTON BOATS TO OFFER ILCA DINGHY & SPARE PARTS IN NORTH AMERICA West Coast Sailing is pleased to announce a partnership with Ovington Boats to offer class approved ILCA dinghies. Ovington, the UK based builder specializing in high performance sailboats, was approved by the International Laser Class Association (ILCA) and World Sailing in August 2020. A long time supporter of the class and its sailors, West Coast Sailing carefully considered all new builders and is expanding a successful decade-long relationship with Ovington. The ILCA landscape has evolved quickly, and West Coast Sailing President, Chris Brown, is confident the Ovington ILCA will become the boat of choice. www.westcoastsailing.net

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Products News

SCANSTRUT–ROKK WIRELESS EDGE The ROKK Wireless Edge phone charging mount is a 12/24V multiadjustable waterproof wireless phone charging mount that securely holds and wirelessly charges your phone. Designed to withstand the toughest conditions on a variety of vessels, you can keep your phone in sight, fully charged, and ready to go. With a small footprint, the Edge allows you to have numerous choices for how and where to install the mount and charger combo. The mount can be rotated from portrait to landscape to view your favorite navigation app or simply fine-tune the position for the optimum viewing angle. And the self-aligning, highgrip jaws accommodate all wireless charging phones and securely hold your device in the optimum charging position, right where you need it. Price: $179.99. www.Scanstrut.com

SWI-TEC BAGS Finding a place to store things aboard a moving sailboat is one of the great challenges sailors face. Looking to tackle the problem, SWI-TEC Bags has developed a range of options to keep your personal effects and gear where you left them last, making life aboard a little easier. Their Universal Storage Bag is intended for tools, but can also be used for various other items. Tools can be put in individual pockets, secured with a flexible strip, rolled up, and then closed with a quick release fastener and adjustable strap. Able to be used inside or outside, the Railing Bag can be hung around lifelines or rails and is easy to fasten or unfasten to move as needed. Your choice of four or six pockets can hold everything from rigging tape and sunscreen to your deck knife or lip balm. Rounding out the product line, a good all-around storage option for larger items is SWI-TEC’s Universal Bag Mini. Made of water-repellant, UVresistant, tearproof fabric, it can be hung or permanently mounted to give you an easy place to stash a VHF, water bottle, and more. Price: Starting at $43. www.Swi-Tec.com

THE JIBCAP The weakest points of our sails are often found at the corners, and there is one corner in particular that is not readily available for frequent inspection: the head of a furled jib. Beyond high loads, one of the biggest issues facing the head of a hoisted sail is UV degradation to the sail cloth and its webbing. Enter, ‘The JibCap’. The Jib Cap is designed to save you the hassle and cost of sail repairs by protecting your furling jib’s webbing, stitching, and cloth. Made of Sunbrella®, the JibCap is installed on the jib head prior to hoisting, and remains in place once it’s aloft with heavy duty Velcro. When the sail is hoisted, it can be furled in and out and the JibCap will stay in place to protect your sail. Price: $35. www.JibCap.com

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JANUARY 2021

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Crossword and Trivia

DID YOU KNOW? by Bryan Henry

Tagging and DNA have confirmed that sea turtles in the Azores, thousands of miles east of the United States, were hatched in Florida. The loggerhead sea turtle was given its name by fishermen, who likened its head to a log floating in the water. The long-distance swimmers among sea turtles, the loggerheads swim 9,000 miles before returning to the beach where they were hatched. Loggerhead sea turtles eat hard bodied prey such as clams, crabs, and lobsters; and have been known to dismantle lobster traps. Apart from sea snakes, sea turtles are the only reptiles that spend virtually their entire lives at sea. The hawksbill sea turtle got its name because of its sharp and powerful beak. It also has two powerful claws on each flipper.

ACROSS

DOWN

1 Lopez and Shaw, for example

1 Ocean

5 Deteriorates through exposure to water

8 River mouth

The hawksbill sea turtle is the chief source of tortoiseshell.

2 Calm periods 3 Type of tide 4 Tentacled sea creature

10 Displays, as a flag

5 "Alcatraz" survival crafts

6 Garnish piece

11 Hit the shore, as a wave

12 As well 13 Boat specs, for example 17 Where slips may be showing 20 Room on board

7 "Send the Coast Guard!"

9 The way of the Chinese

14 Popular beer category 15 Start to Francisco

16 Light fog 22 Hemingway's "The Old Man and 18 A while back the ___" 19 Query 23 Life preserver 20 Sail material 25 Compass heading 21 Famous Triangle 27 Cruisin' get-together 23 46.1 mph, in knots 30 Don't let this shore bird get 24 ___ hands on deck! near your burgers! - 2 words 26 There are two of these on a 31 America's Cup competition catamaran 32 Mantas 28 Quebec lake 29 Up to this point 30 It rises in the east

The leatherback is the largest sea turtle, followed by the loggerhead. The largest leatherback ever found in the ocean measured 8.4 feet long and weighed 2,020 pounds. Turtle soup, made primarily from the green sea turtle, was so popular In the last half of the 18th and early 19th centuries, that a mock version was developed to replace it. The green sea turtle is not named for its color, but instead the color of its body fat. Sea turtles cannot pull their legs, head, and tail into their shells as some freshwater turtles can. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s estimated that only one of 10,000 sea turtle eggs laid survive to adulthood. Florida is the second largest nesting area in the world for loggerhead sea turtles. Raccoons eat more sea turtle eggs there than any other predator.

Solution on page 49

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Artist's View

A couple months ago, a juvenile humpback whale was found on the beach at Marrowstone Island, probably hit by a freighter. This is sort of a requiem to that whale, but also to pay homage to a species that’s now returning to the Salish Sea after decades of being missing-in-action. After whaling was outlawed in the 1960s, there were only about 1,000 humpbacks left along the entire West Coast. But this massive mammal has made a healthy comeback. Like the gray whale, these animals spend their summers in the north, then migrate south for the winter — and some are now stopping by the Salish Sea to visit us. They are fascinating and smart creatures with complex social lives. They sing memorized songs, and the young quietly whisper these tunes as they’re learning them, possibly to avoid being heard by killer whales. They gather together to fish, blowing bubble clouds from beneath schools of small fish or krill to herd them together like a net — a net of bubbles.

Sketches and story by Larry Eifert

These are big creatures, the size of a school bus and weighing up to 40 tons. That’s as much as 20 cars! It would take a 40-foot boat slip to moor one adult. Their flippers can be 16 feet long, the longest arms of any creature, and their tails can be bigger yet. Interestingly, humpback’s heads are covered with round knobby-like structures, a unique characteristic among whales. Each knob sports at least one stiff hair, which some think might be like a motion sensor, but no one really knows. With gray whales, minke, and orcas also sharing these waters, the best way to identify a humpback isn’t the “hump”, which is not a hump at all but just the way they dive by arching their back, but rather the enormous flipper arm. If you see one of these whales, appreciate it both for its majestic beauty and its amazing comeback from the threat of extinction.

Larry Eifert paints and sails the Pacific Northwest from Port Townsend. His large-scale murals can be seen in many national parks across America, and at larryeifert.com. 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2021

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JANUARY 2021

Close to the Water

STANDING FIRM

by Bruce Bateau

THE NATURAL AMBIANCE OF HOPE ISLAND PROVIDES A MARINER’S SANCTUARY Standing with my little rowboat on the mainland shore, I stare out across the still black water toward Hope Island’s coniferstudded dome, barely a mile distant. Though the water appears placid, I know that deep beneath the surface lies a churning current, now merely at rest. By the time I’m halfway to the island, scores of translucent jellyfish and stray pieces of bronze algae slide perpendicular to my course, pulled along by tidal streams that reach out from four nearby inlets. From a bird’s vantage point, Hope Island looks like the eye of an octopus, the many channels and passages of the south Salish Sea forming its arms. Without fail, it’s here that I start my boating year. The seamanlike way to plan a trip to the island is to check the tides, in order to avoid fighting a current — or at least to show up at high tide, sidestepping the chore of hauling your boat over

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the sharp, barnacle- encrusted rocks that lie in exposed subtidal areas. But I simply go to Hope when the mood strikes me, even if that means wrestling with the current or hauling my boat over the cobbles on its cart. I like to savor the full experience, with all its unnecessary exertions, before I set foot on shore. That way, I feel I’ve earned the right to experience Hope. The island is ringed by numerous beaches; sand, cobble, shell, and combinations thereof, each connected to the upland with footpaths; but I almost always land on the southern shore. Here a beach composed of crushed shells — likely a midden left by First Peoples in the area — produces a comforting, soft, but not unstable, sensation underfoot. The high side of the midden is fringed by blue-tinged pickleweed. Rising beyond the reach of the tide stands an odd plantation-like forest of conifers. After hitching my boat to a post, I wander deeper into the

JANUARY 2021

island and find myself in a grove of trees so large that I must crane my neck to see the canopy far overhead. Always keeping the water to my right, I follow what could loosely be called a trail. It feels more like a natural opening in the woods, where there are simply fewer trees and shrubs, permitting a visitor to slip through. Gradually, I walk uphill, toward the north end of the island, where I’m surprised anew by the dip into a tiny valley studded with old-growth trees. I pause, pondering all that these ancient cedars and maples must have witnessed over the centuries, trying to gauge how far their roots must penetrate: surely deep enough to touch the saltwater below. It is utterly silent here; only a few dust motes flicker in shafts of sunlight piercing the branches above. Starting back on the westerly side of the island, I note the forest’s gradual changes, relishing the dappled sunlight beneath a grove of young alders and a meadow of luxuriant grasses. The sun is out in full force as I approach a remnant apple orchard left by European homesteaders, its casually mown turf lending a park-like ambiance, inviting me to linger. I perch on a picnic table, gazing out toward the saltwater boundary of the island. At 132 acres, Hope is small enough to be intimate, but large enough to feel like it will hold its own against a king tide or storm surge. Still, with its pear shape, it’s hard to get far from the water here. Birds, small children, and otters carry shells, crab claws, and fish parts a surprising distance into the interior. Cedar and fir cones litter the beach. The line between land and sea is stretched. A small craft guy, I am at home here, where amphibious boats that can be hauled up and down the beach are more useful than deep-keeled craft. Although mooring buoys bob offshore, there’s no infrastructure for big boat sailors on Hope. Everyone must navigate the beach. We enter as equals.

A dory and Joel White designed Shearwater alongside Hope Island. Squaxin Island is in the background.

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The southern beach is a great place to hang out. Undeveloped Squaxin Island is in the distance. Despite the peace of the island, I’ve always felt vulnerable offshore, whether tied to a buoy or at anchor. One side is open to west winds; the other riddled with currents and exposed to the wakes of passing boats. I usually sleep ashore when I visit, but one night I decided to anchor on the east side. All was well at slack tide, but by midnight I awoke to the sound of a river rushing past my hull, and couldn’t help suspecting that I was somehow on the move. My boat seemed so slight against all that water, like a leaf caught at the end of a spider’s web. It rolled end to end, then side to side, inducing a nausea that persisted all night and left me with a lasting appreciation of Hope’s solid campground, despite its marauding raccoons. As Covid-19 continues to upend the human world, Hope Island stands firm. The tide rises and falls, deer graze, crabs scuttle, trees grow. Now, in the dark of winter, I must have faith that we’ll all get through the challenges that lie ahead. Helping to motivate me through the darkness are thoughts of boating in the long days of spring, and the knowledge that one day, when the season turns, I will again row out to Hope Island, where our present troubles are just a blip in time, where the cycle of life continues unabated; the wildflowers will bloom once more, moon snails will hunt, and I will find peace in these waters again.

Bruce Bateau sails and rows traditional boats with a modern twist in Portland, Ore. His stories and adventures can be found at www.terrapintales.wordpress.com

JANUARY 2021

Galley Essentials

by Carol Buchan

FOOD PREPARATION FOR STORMY WEATHER I was introduced to Carol Buchan through a mutual friend who noted that we both enjoy sharing the adventure of creating meals on the water. Carol’s wonderful blog and new book named Northwest Cooking Afloat celebrates local fare with delightful imagery and I’m honored to have Carol share her heavy weather go-to recipes with you this month. - Amanda Swan Neal The barometer is dropping and the clouds have certainly gathered for the season. It’s time to batten down the hatches, shorten the sails, and check for any loose gear below—because once the wind hits, you’ve got to be prepared for the waves and heeling motion of rough seas. Easy-to-reach, high-energy foods such as trail mix and hearty soups can keep the crew focused and warm. Choosing the best time to serve a meal, and offering food you can easily consume, will make a big difference. I opt for wraps versus sandwiches and forego salad for cut up veggies or fruit you can grab. Crispy 48º NORTH

saltines and crystallized ginger are staples in case someone starts feeling queasy. All of these recipes could be prepared in advance, an important consideration when crew bandwidth may be occupied with other responsibilities. Whether cooking them underway, or in anticipation of their employment at sea, here are a few of my favorite recipes for inclement weather.

Carol Buchan is a native of the Pacific Northwest and has spent a lifetime learning to prepare fresh, local dishes with ingredients harvested from the sea or foraged from nearby forests and gardens. She has competed in multiday distance races as well as countless buoy races in the Northwest and around the world since the 1970s. These recipes are from her new book, Northwest Cooking Afloat. Available at: bit.ly/fhacookbook

JANUARY 2021

SAVORY CORN MUFFINS Makes 16 muffins

For breakfast you can eat on the go, these moist, hearty corn muffins contain enough tasty sources of protein—cheese, ham, and buttermilk—to keep you fueled up for the day. And when the weather requires crew on deck in the early morning, the warm, easy-to-eat muffins provide a welcome wake-up call alongside a steamy mug of hot coffee. 2 cups cornmeal, yellow or white 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup buttermilk 3 eggs 1 (15-ounce) can creamed corn

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, melted ¾ cup diced ham ¾ cup diced cheddar cheese ½ cup finely sliced green onions

Heat the oven to 425°F. Grease 16 muffin cups or line the cups with cupcake papers or parchment paper squares. In a large mixing bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and eggs; stir in the creamed corn and melted butter. Add the wet ingredients to the dry and stir until just blended. Fold in the ham, cheese, and green onions. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins, filling them to the brim. Sprinkle green onions over the tops of the muffins. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and slightly firm to the touch.

CHILI VERDE

Makes 8 servings A steaming mug of chili verde is a welcome offering to a shivering crew member. I usually make this recipe in advance if the forecast looks frigid. 3 cloves garlic, unpeeled 1 medium onion, peeled and quartered 5 medium tomatillos, husks removed 3 Anaheim peppers 2 medium jalapeño peppers 1 cup loosely packed cilantro, coarsely chopped, divided 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1½ pounds pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 cups chicken broth 2¾ teaspoons ground cumin 2 (16-ounce) cans Great Northern or cannellini beans Avocado slices, for garnish Chopped green onions, for garnish

Heat your oven broiler to high. On a large rimmed baking sheet, arrange the garlic, onion, tomatillos, and peppers in a single layer. Cut slits in the chilies to keep them from popping. Broil, turning, until the skins are charred. Place all the vegetables in a large bowl; cover and let steam for 5 minutes. Peel the garlic and chilies under cool running water. Discard the seeds and stems. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor along with the onions, tomatillos and half the cilantro and purée until blended. Set aside. Salt and pepper the raw pork cubes. Heat the vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven over medium high. Add half the pork and cook until all sides are well browned; set the pieces aside in a bowl. Add the remaining pork and brown all sides. Return all the browned pork to the pot. Add the puréed garlic and pepper mixture, chicken broth, cumin, and Great Northern beans to the Dutch oven. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 2½ hours, until the pork shreds easily on the fork. Remove from the heat and skim off any excess fat. Taste for seasoning. Serve with some avocado slices, chopped green onions, and the remaining cilantro sprinkled on top.

MOLASSES SUGAR COOKIES Makes 30 cookies

I’ve tried other versions of molasses cookies, but I always come back to this one. The cookies have an irresistible chewy center and an intense combination of flavors. On gray, stormy days I hanker for these cookies because molasses and ginger seem to calm a queasy stomach at sea. They store well for a multiple-day journey or as a treat in a packed lunch. ¾ cup (1½ sticks) butter 1 cup sugar ¼ cup molasses 1 egg

2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¾ teaspoon ginger

½ teaspoon cloves ½ teaspoon kosher salt More sugar, for rolling

Heat the oven to 375°F. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Remove from the heat and let cool. Add the sugar, molasses, and egg to the cooled butter and stir until well blended. In a medium bowl, stir the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and salt. Add to the molasses mixture and stir until the dough forms into a ball. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour. Form the dough into 1-inch balls and roll them in sugar. Set on the cookie sheet 2 inches apart and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they’ve spread evenly and look set in the center. Remove the cookies from the pan and cool on a wire rack. They’ll store well in the freezer for a month or in an airtight tin for a week. 48º NORTH

JANUARY 2021

How-to

SMOOTH REEFING FOR SMOOTH SAILING by Alex and Jack Wilken

Winter winds are here! It’s something to celebrate, but also something that requires special readiness. Being able to reduce sail to maintain better control of the boat is, of course, always important. This is especially crucial at this time of year. Let’s zoom out, first. Boats are designed to sail best at a particular angle of heel — depending on the boat, somewhere between 10° and 20°. If the force of the wind on the sails causes the boat to heel more than that, it not only makes it harder to control and puts unnecessary strain on the rigging and the crew, but it is almost always a slower way to sail. Reefing — the act of reducing the effective sail area to reduce the force the wind can apply to the boat — is one way to address this. Conventional wisdom offers the general rule: “If you are wondering if you should reef, you should already have a reef in.” However, when and how to reef leaves lots of room for interpretation. Below, we will review some of the different kinds of reefing and how to make them work for you, your crew, and your boat during a particularly windy winter sail. Before you get to tucking a reef in, remember that the first way to depower a sail is with the sail controls; and weather helm can guide you in this process. A few principles apply to this line of thinking: • A flatter sail has less power than one with more shape. Tightening the halyard, cunningham, outhaul, or the sheet and/or moving the traveler to leeward or headsail fairleads aft can all flatten and depower the sails. If your boat has an adjustable backstay, trimming the backstay on also flattens both main and jib. • All these sail controls will affect weather helm, which is the tendency of the boat to want to round up into the wind when it is overpowered. You always want a little weather helm, as keeping the bow from coming up creates lift to windward. It is also much safer for the boat to want to go bow-to-wind if you let go of the helm. As the wind increases so does the weather helm, so if it gets to be too much you will not be able to keep the bow down and/or will have to have the rudder so far over that it acts as a brake and slows the boat down. If sail controls are tight and you’re still struggling with excessive heel, a lot of weather helm, or both, it’s past time to reef. Remember, reefing when you first think about it is the best practice.

be the most expensive reefing systems and the least effective, depending on execution. They are the most complicated and, by extension, the least reliable. However, they certainly have their advantages and can be well executed in their design, installation, and use. The biggest problem with roller reefing is related to sail design. The designed draft (depth) in the middle of the sail dictates that, as the sail is rolled up, the edges of the sail roll proportionately faster than the middle of the sail (where the draft leaves more material). The resulting sail shape when partially rolled thus involves very tight sail edges while leaving the maximum draft area in the middle of the sail loose and baggy (Figure 1). This is exactly what you don't want, because a loose sail with a lot of shape has more power and/or drag than a flat sail — resulting in poor upwind performance, more heel, and less control. There are some clever designs to help with this problem. Lengths of foam sewn into the luff can help roll the sail more tightly and evenly for a better shape; and in-boom furlers are normally thicker in the middle to compensate for sail shape as the sail rolls up (as opposed to a simple straight bar). Another option is to roll the sail up so small that it is flat because the end of the sail has very little shape to it (Figure 2). With a headsail, the best way to shorten sail may be to take down the larger sail designed for light air, and put up a smaller one designed for heavier wind. Slab Reefing: Slab Reefing, also known as Jiffy reefing (Figure 3), is the most common form of reefing you'll see on sailboats with traditional mainsails these days. This involves having reef points on the sail that can form the new tack and clew when it is lowered, so that a slab of the sail is no longer used below the reef points. • Hook and Cringle Reefing: Hook and cringle reefing is one of the simplest ways to secure this new tack. A hook is typically integral to the boom near the gooseneck and a sailor must go forward to attach the sail’s reef-point cringle to this fixed hook. The clew is then secured with a reefing line, usually rigged through the aft end of the boom, that thus becomes the new outhaul.

REEFING APPROACHES Most often, when sailors think of reefing, they’re thinking of shortening the main first sail using a reefing system like Hook and Cringle. This is not the only option, but here are some considerations: Roller Reefing: With furlers for roller furling headsails, inboom and in-mast furling mainsails, we can shorten the sail by simply rolling it up on the furler. Unfortunately, these can 48º NORTH

• Two Line Reefing: The reef points on the sail used in slab reefing can also be secured each with their own lines (Figure 4). To reef, lower the sail to below the reef you wish to put in, tighten each reefing line to the proper tightness, then raise the halyard to tension the sail against the new tack and clew. Generally, each of these lines is run prior to sailing and is ready to employ from the cockpit. One way to save on reefing lines when using the two-line system is to have the cunningham attached to the sail by a hook (which could be used similarly to a fixed hook at the reefing cringle). While more efficient in terms of lines, it requires someone to go forward to attach the sail to the hook at its reef point, negating one of the benefits of a dedicated two-line system. JANUARY 2021

• Single Line Reefing: This method works very much like two line reefing, except that one line is run through both reef points (Figure 5) and then only that line is tightened to secure the reef. This can be the simplest system to put a reef in, but can be one of the more problematic to get to work smoothly because it may have a lot of friction.

management, a single-line system may work even more easily. Friction is a big factor in whether any system works smoothly for you. Low-friction ball bearing blocks and low-friction rings properly placed and used can help reduce the total friction by quite a bit, but also remember to keep them well lubricated. Reefing is one of those step-by-step procedures where, when it is really needed, it is likely to be done in less-thanideal conditions. Going through each and every step and seeing if it can be improved is the only way to make it as smooth as possible. Practice at the dock, time yourself, get some friends to compete with to see who can do it the fastest; and then see why and if there is a way to improve it. All systems involve compromises, and experience is the only way to know what will work best for you, your boat, and crew. And don’t forget, you are a part of that system. The best reefing system for your boat is the one where you can put a reef in quickly, safely, and effectively, no matter how cold and strong the winter winds may blow. ________

For the most part you can change your reefing system from one to the other as it suits your needs. If you don't have in-mast or in-boom furling mainsail, roller reefing the main probably requires a new mast or boom … no small or cost-effective undertaking. But for the rest, they work similarly enough that they can be changed one for another. But why would you want to? Well, each sailor may want to identify their personal preferences in balancing ease, safety, and effectiveness. You want the reef to be easy to put in and shake out. It is almost always easier to shake a reef out than to put one in — hence the saying “reef early and often.” Many sailors would like to avoid going forward to put the reef in, if possible. Reefing setups altered to run all the lines back to the cockpit for easy employment may necessitate new lines, since existing lines may not have the length to work in this system. Ultimately, each of these systems has advantages and disadvantages. Hook and cringle is the simplest option as far as moving parts and friction: cringle goes over hook, retension the halyard, then tension the reefing line (probably with a winch mounted on the mast or boom), and you’re done. With two-line reefing, you can lead both reefing lines and the halyard back to the cockpit and do everything from there. This will require several more blocks, which will add friction, plus the attachment and lead points for the tack reefing line need to be properly placed. With some careful rigging and friction

This article builds on several Wilken How-to articles previously published in 48° North — refer to them for more details: “Choose, Install, and Use a Roller Furler,” June 2017; “Get the Most From Your Storm Sails,” September 2017; “Mounting Hardware on Your Mast or Boom,” March 2013; “Making Shorthanded Sailing Easier” September 2013; “Choose and Use Marine Marine Lubricants,” October 2017.

Alex and Jack Wilken are lifelong cruisers, professional shipwrights, USCG licensed captains, and the owners of Seattle Boat Works.

Figure 2: With the headsail reefed by rolling it up almost all the way, the sail can be pulled tight and flat to depower it.

Figure 4: Two-Line Reefing System: (A) Clew cringle. (B) Turning block for clew reefing line. (C) Attachment point for clew reefing line. (D) Tack cringle. (E) Attachment point for tack reefing line. (F) Turning block for clew reefing line to take it down to the deck. (G) Turning block for tack reefing line to take it down to the deck. (H) Block for tack and clew reefing lines to take them aft.

Figure 3: (A) Hook. (B) Tack cringle. (C) Clew cringle. (D) Clew reefing line. (E) Buntlet gromet. (F) Buntlet. (G) Turning block for clew reefing line. (H) Cleat for clew reefing line. In this reefing system no winch is needed to tension the reefing line because you can put enough tension on it by humping the reefing line between the cleat and the turning block.

Figure 5: One-Line Reefing System: (A) Clew cringle. (B) Turning block for reefing line. (C) Attachment point for reefing line. (D) Tack cringle. (E) Single reefing line. (F) Turning block for reefing line to take it up to the tack clew. (G) Turning block for reefing line to take it down to the deck. (H) Block for reefing line to take it aft.

JANUARY 2021

Figure 1: With the headsail reefed by partially rolling it in, the deepest part of the sail’s draft is usually left unrolled.

48º NORTH

BUYING A BLUEWATER SAILBOAT DURING THE PANDEMIC

by Indigo Bowick

A COMPLICATED DELIVERY, AN UNPLANNED ADVENTURE, AND ONE FAMILY’S MAIDEN VOYAGE

n March 2020, the Coronavirus hit our hometown of Nelson, British Columbia, and an isolated quarantine followed. After getting over the initial shock of living in lockdown — being the outgoing adventure-seeking outdoor enthusiasts the are — my parents, Erica Konrad and Mike Bowick, didn’t hesitate in planning their newest escapade. Covid had put a pause on many plans, including the annual Race to Alaska my father and his team had been training for all of 2019. His team, The Kootenay Pedalwheelers, were to compete in the 750 mile race from Port Townsend, Washington, up the Inside Passage to Ketchikan, Alaska, in June of 2020 on their Flying Tiger sailboat named Amurskaya. Upon the cancellation of the race, his team instead circumnavigated Vancouver Island without a motor. He arrived home inspired to buy a bluewater boat to further explore the coast. After a couple weeks ogling dreamy boat options online and

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shopping for those available around the region, the papers were signed to purchase a Northwest 32 pilothouse sailboat located in Portland, Oregon. Turns out, sailing along the coast wouldn’t be the only navigation we would be doing. The next — and possibly most difficult — step of the voyage would be getting the sailboat from Portland, Oregon across a closed border to Victoria, British Columbia. The plan was simple ... or so it seemed. Due to Covid-related border protocols, we were limited to hiring a commercial captain to bring our boat into Canada. The plan was for our captain to sail up the coast, cross the Canadian border, and deliver the boat to Victoria, where we would meet him and then embark on a trip around the Gulf Islands. We were all set, we thought. Without incident, the boat had made it up the coast from Portland to Port Angeles, where our captain was to then cross the Juan de Fuca Strait and dock in Victoria. On our end, bags were

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Spotting killer whales rounding an outskirt off of Portland Island. packed, meals were prepared, and we were ready for the 10 hour drive to meet, provision, and take possession of the boat. But all of a sudden, there was radio silence from our captain. Trip on hold, tensions rose; stress set in and disappointment with it. The captain had skipped ship and bailed on the boat without explanation. After a frantic few days of phone calls while we sat in the dark, a local marine mechanic, Erik Hogenson, confirmed that the boat was safe in port, just unfortunately in the wrong country. While we searched for an alternative form of transport, Erik informed us a new issue had arisen, the black water holding tank was leaking. Erik saved the day, yet again, and literally went through sh*t for us. Physically, the boat was so near, yet it felt worlds away. We made many inquiries to commercial captains as our search for a solution to bring our boat into Canada wore on. Eventually, we stumbled upon one — a captain and a solution — and Captain

Vern Lhotzky from Victoria graciously agreed to help us out. Eager to get our hands on the boat, we set off the following day and drove down to Vancouver Island to begin our trip of sailing around the Gulf Islands. After staying the night in a hotel outside of Victoria in preparation to meet Vern the following day, we woke up to one of the only foggy days of the entire summer. Upon anxiously calling our captain, he confirmed he was unable to make the delivery that day, and due to prior commitments wouldn’t be able to try again for four days. Everyone’s spirits were down, and we were stuck a full day’s drive away from home. Unwilling to give up, and with four days to kill, my parents decided to make the most out of a trip that, at this point, felt doomed. There was a tent that had fortunately been left in the truck from a previous trip, and we had brought along my brother's 14-foot flat-bottom Jon Boat as a dinghy. These elements, combined, proved to be a solution to begin exploring the coast. We loaded our tent and gear into the small boat and piled in to explore the Gulf Islands near Sidney, BC. Our trip was off to a great start. Even though the little boat was struggling to carry all the weight, it was a beautiful sunny day, and no one seemed to mind. As we puttered along, we rounded an outskirt of rock and whale spouts caught my attention! My brother quickly shut off the engine and we watched in awe as a mother killer whale and her calf slowly passed by. Such a breathtaking experience, we interpreted it as a sign that our mishaps occurred for a reason. We spent the following few days exploring and searching for all the fluorescent critters inhabiting the tidepools. The first two nights, we camped on the most beautiful outcrop of grassy rock on Portland Island, part of the Gulf Island National Park Reserve, where a hike around the island would reveal Royal Cove and Princess Bay for future mooring possibilities. Our tent overlooked the ocean, and we ventured out daily in search of seals, seashells, crabs, and other ocean wonders. For the last night, we packed up and headed over to Sidney Island where we enjoyed a beautiful sunset on a red brick beach. The wait had come to an end and we were ready to finally lay our eyes on the new-to-us Northwest 32, and head out on the Salish Sea. After a long day of patience, excitement, and hours

Smashing through waves, the Northwest 32 is at home on big water. 48º NORTH

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Finally in possession of our new boat, we made a stop to enjoy a sunset hike on DeCourcy Island. at the customs dock, we finally watched Captain Vern motor into the harbor. We had a twilight pizza dinner on the boat as we enjoyed the beauty of the raised pilot house. Carefully designed and built by Bill McNabb, the wooden interior and layout with its raised dinette surrounded by windows, brought on a homey, cozy feel, with a place for just about everything. It was safe to say everyone enjoyed a deep sleep, knowing that this long, circuitous phase of the journey was over. With our trip cut short and only three days left before we had to head home, we departed the marina early in the morning navigating towards Gabriola Island, where the boat was to stay for the coming months. With the spinnaker hoisted, we made our way along the coast to Galiano Island, sailing in the sunny midday heat. Around dusk, we dropped the anchor in Montague Harbour and caught the day’s last rays glinting off the water. On the second day of sailing, we admired more natural wonders — from an amazing sculpted sandstone shore made by the tide, to the seals perched on rocks as we passed. We also appreciated getting to know the boat, working the sails to squeeze out some extra speed out of the light wind. All of it made me think how fortunate I am, as a teenager, that my life

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has been full of salt and freshwater adventures ever since my parents introduced me to sailing when I was 5 years old. We anchored that night in Herring Bay on Ruxton Island where the water was a beautiful turquoise, with colorful pops of contrast thanks to the purple and orange starfish scattered among the rocks. The next and last morning, we navigated through Gabriola Passage at slack tide. The day warmed, evaporating the cold mist and revealing the narrow passage between Gabriola Island and Valdes Island. We reached our mooring buoy in beautiful Silva Bay and the boat was unloaded and buttoned up until next time. Motoring to shore, we reminisced about the trip and how it felt extra rewarding after the painstaking wait and numerous false starts. The long drive home was full of conversation planning for future trips across the Strait of Georgia to explore more of the British Columbia coast.

Indigo Bowick is a student at the University of Victoria, pursuing a degree in Writing and Environmental Studies. She is from Nelson, BC, and has been sailing since the age of 5 years old.

JANUARY 2021

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JANUARY 2021

A PA R TI N G DELIVERY LETTING GO AFTER THREE YEARS AND MORE THAN 3,000 MILES

by Rhys Balmer

48ยบ NORTH

JANUARY 2021

ome say that the happiest days of a boat owner's life are the day they buy a boat and the day they sell it. I can tell you that, although that may be true for some, it is not true for me. I've been thinking about what it means to be a boat owner recently. After three years and well over 3,000 miles, the time had come to say goodbye to Journeyman — the Cal 40 I have been using as a teaching platform for Griffin Bay Adventures, my sailing school in the San Juan Islands. Journeyman's commercial insurance had come up for renewal and, after much searching, no coverage could be found for the 50-year-old boat, despite her great pedigree. As would be the case with any craft one has shared so many miles with, she was close to my heart. But she was also a business asset, and — no longer able to work for her moorage — now an albatross around my neck in these hard times for the sail training industry. As I prepared to sell the boat, I itemized the upgrades we had done on the listing and, going through the pictures, I was flooded with all the fond memories of adventure made aboard. I remember well the 21 days it took to sail her back from Hawaii; how impressed I was that all I’d read about the boat’s good ocean sailing character was true. I remembered the Oregon Offshore Race in which we took away a second place trophy; and how proud I was not only that we had done well, but we’d done it with students as a sail training class. I remembered the race around San Juan County with friends when we did not place so well, but brought the cast iron cookware and enjoyed the finest underway fare of any race I’ve ever participated in. I remembered the threeday trip to Vancouver, British Columbia last year for New Years with good friends. I remember cruising around the Gulf Islands with a girlfriend — blissed-out, bellies full of oysters, snugged down in a favorite newly discovered anchorage. At best, we are stewards of our boats for a time; and we’re not the only ones to derive joy from these vessels. If we take care of our craft like we hope they will take care of us, we should try to pass them on in better shape than when we got them so they can be enjoyed for generations. I remember looking at Journeyman briefly in Hawaii while I was getting a Santa Cruz 50 ready to deliver back to San Francisco. The Cal 40 had a recent refit, but was in rough shape after being handled poorly on her way to Hawaii by her former owners. Both her stem fitting and gooseneck were broken, and her jib and furler were damaged so badly that they had been thrown in the dumpster after the crossing. She was in rough shape, but I saw her potential as a solid sail-training platform and those sweet classic lines didn't hurt. A little work and she would be ready for the 2,500-plus mile trip home. The misadventures endear you to your craft as well as the smooth sailing and sexy lines. After I bought her and set sail for the Pacific Northwest from Hawaii, I can vividly recall the shaky-handed jury rigging job we did that kept the rudder from can-opening a hole in the hull when the top rudder bearing sheared off its bolts 1,000 miles from land. Our jury rig held for the rest of the trip. After we arrived I glassed in big gussets fore and aft and athwartships to take any load off the new top bearing hardware.

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Maybe it's all the work that you put in — and the confidence that comes from it — that makes it so hard to say goodbye. In those first months, I remember my folks helping with the varnish, painting, rail re-bedding and V-drive rebuild. All the hours working on the boat with them are happy memories. Despite the pain of letting go, I knew that I was passing along a boat that was better for our time together. From bluewater passages to day sailing, she never let me down. Perhaps these are the reasons so many marinas are choked with sorry derelicts or vessels not far off. The memories of the good times make people hang on to their boats beyond their ability to steward them. Then guilt sets in after the boat has been let go so far that it keeps them away from the marina, moorage payments on auto-draft. Letting go is difficult. After Journeyman's listing went up, it was not long before a young and aspiring sailor from California purchased the boat and it was time to say goodbye to Journeyman. Fortunately, though, he would need the boat delivered and I would get one last adventure to sooth this bittersweet passing of the torch. FRIDAY HARBOR TO SAN FRANCISCO — A LAST ADVENTURE WITH FRIENDS The first to sign on to the crew were Eric Cheong and Martin Gibson. I have shared more than 5,000 miles with these guys on different deliveries and races and I can't think of better examples of how character is first and foremost at sea. Eric and Martin are the paragon of seagoing gentlemen and, in addition to being invaluable on deck, are always glad to help organize, cook, do dishes, or clean. Martin was my first mate, crew, navigator, fiberglass repair specialist, and guidance counselor for our doublehanded Pac Cup on my Moore 24, Evermoore. Eric joined a delivery back from Hawaii the following year and has been a real rockstar guest on many more recreational boating activities. With a strong crew like these two aboard, we didn't really need anyone else; but it was too fun a passage to not want to share it with more people. Next on the crew were Har Rai Khalsa and Madison “Mad Dog” Rowley. Har Rai had joined on a short delivery from Port Angeles to Portland years ago and I remember him asking to climb the mast as we sailed up the river to Portland, kite up and all, to get a picture. A backcountry athlete and professional outdoor sports photographer, here is a guy who would climb a mast or dive under the boat at the drop of a hat if necessary — and with a grin on his face. Mad Dog is a strange nickname for such a refined gent. We first sailed together as teenagers when I was teaching for junior sailing camps in Portland. Our friendship is more proof, if anyone ever needed it, that fellowship forged on the water endures. The last to join this well acquainted and handsome bunch was Kyle Hadley, who I met on social media when he was asked for advice about his new-to-him Cascade 29. A tough, self-taught sailor, who happened to be the youngest person on our crew, Kyle is not someone that would sign up for a typical sailing lesson, but he is a perfect candidate for what I've come to call a seagoing apprenticeship. Kyle’s genuine passion and curiosity about everything sailing confirms that he will be one of the few

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to really go and do the bluewater sailing thing so many dream about but never do. WHAT A CAL 40 DOES BEST The direction and time of year of this delivery promised to offer some of the best sailing you can do with a Cal 40. These boats just love a bunch of wind abaft the beam. And when you add a following sea, the helm just lightens up and you can't stop grinning.

Mad Dog at the helm with Eric offering downwind driving advice.

Ships log 9-15-20: We are heading dead downwind and have the #2 jib poled out and the main preventer on. It’s gusting 25+ and the sea state is still confused so the helm is a handful. At 10 p.m., the helmsman backwinds the main, the preventer stops the jibe but the boom vang breaks. A few hours later on the next watch, the #2 is back-winded one too many times and blows up. No worries, it was an old sail. The #3 goes up and fresh hands get on the helm. The boom and its affiliated parts are common points of failure. The vang breaking reminds me of past issues with these important moving parts. The previous evening’s vang failure was just the fitting popping its two rivets and bending its way out. The next day, Marty got to jury rigging and managed to reshape it and slip it back in the track with a lashing to the unused loop just aft of the vang attach point. This fix was eerily similar to one Martin had done when we were racing to Hawaii on Evermoore. There was a lesson here: it is important to have fuses in the rigging and strong isn't always the best. One would always rather have the vang break than the boom or mast or gooseneck. Things break, you jury rig, and then when back ashore you improve the design. I may be someone who drank more of the Koolaid than most, but I can't think of any thing that can bring people together as a team — while pushing everyone's limits and horizons — like a boat and some sea miles. While the forest fires raged on shore and who knows what was going on in the political world at large, our little tribe had come together. Watches were running smoothly and everyone was in sync. I secretly just wished we had further to go.

From Journeyman's ship's log on the delivery, 9-9-20: The sun is setting now, we have the 3/4 asymmetrical kite on the pole, and when surfing we are hitting 11 knots. A three-course Indian dinner is being prepared by Har Rai and the tantalizing aromas waft through the boat and into the cockpit. Thundering along in 20 knots of wind about 10 miles offshore, the forecast looks good. High-fives and good vibes abound. The most riveting sea stories are made of stuff going wrong, but I don’t think any sailor will deny that those perfect moments between human and boat and wind and sea are what we really live for. Having these kinds of experiences sailing and sharing them with some of your best shipmates makes up for any mid ocean head rebuild or any of the other unfun work that boat ownership involves. IT'S NOT ALL BEER AND SKITTLES Ship's log 9-13-20: So far, we have been lucky rounding the capes as we sail south, but as we approach the infamous Cape Mendocino, it seems that we will get some uncomfortable conditions. At sunset, the wind is gusting 20+ from the south and a confused sea is running from the conflicting winds that have been blowing the past few days in the area. I'm in the port quarter berth when we come off a wave on port tack and the range comes free from its gimbals. Fortunately, the solenoid is off and the LPG hose isn't damaged. We get it back on the gimbals and secured so dinner can be made.

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Eric Cheong ably at the helm off Cape Mendocino.

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Journeyman's delivery crew stoked on their shared adventure after arriving in smoky San Francisco. PASSING IT ON Ship’s log 9-18-20: The wind has tapered and we are motoring into the pitch black night. The smoke from the forest fires has blacked out any stars or moonlight. The light of phosphorescence in our wake is very bright. Adding to the surreal moment, three Sooty Petrels have joined us for a ride in the cockpit. These small coal-black birds don’t seem to be afraid of the crew, and even let us pick them up as we relocate them to less dangerous places.

Martin is all smiles after he figured a way to repair the busted boom vang attachment. Photo by Rhys Balmer.

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Perhaps it's the light from our navigation instruments in the cockpit that has drawn them to us. The fog lifted the next day and the Golden Gate Bridge came into view. Everyone was on deck, seabirds and whales all around seemed to greet us as we passed under this iconic bridge. Our journey was coming to an end and like all endings, it was a little sad. Life sometimes finds us far and years apart from our best friends. Work, “adulting”, and raising families come between us and those that were so important in our younger years. Thinking about this really shows me how important it is to have adventures like this with your friends. The time and money spent to make those memories are quickly forgotten. As we head under the gate back to civilization, the sweetness of the presence of mind that you must live underway offshore is replaced with the plans and concerns the shore requires. My band of seaward brothers was breaking up and heading back to reality. The feelings of sadness about letting go of the boat are now small compared to the feelings of how important the time with good people is. As this chapter closes with Journeyman back in California where she was made, and me closing on a new boat to teach on, I can't help but see the moral of this story. The memories and miles are gold. The boat…well, that's just stuff.

Rhys Balmer lives in Friday Harbor, Washington. He is the owner of Griffin Bay Adventures, and is a professional instructor and delivery captain. Read more about Rhys’ high seas adventures at www.griffinbayadventures.com/captains-log Unless otherwise noted, all photos in this article were taken by crew member and professional photographer, Har Rai Khalsa.

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DESTINATION:

HOME

by Elsie Hulsizer

I felt the ship dock with a gentle bump, then the engine shut down. A moment later, shouts reverberated through the metal hull, “Home! We’re at Home!” I lay in my bunk in the dark, puzzled. Home — for both me and the ship — was Seattle, and we were somewhere south of the Tacoma Narrows on our way to Carr Inlet for the night. How could we be home? It was the mid 1960s and I was a student on the RV ONAR, a small oceanographic research ship belonging to the University of Washington. The voice I had heard belonged to the ONAR’s mate, Popp. Crew on the University’s research vessels were known for the practical jokes they played on students and I knew better than to rise to their provocation. I’d find out where we were in the morning. I rolled over and went back to sleep. When I walked into the galley the next morning, a small group 48º NORTH

of students and technicians were drinking coffee at the table as they studied a chart of southern Puget Sound. I leaned in between two students and found Carr Inlet. Several small coves were on the inlet’s western shore. One, Von Geldern Cove, showed a hatched area, labeled “Home.” So, Home was a town. In answer to my unspoken question, one of the crew members shrugged, “It was a utopian community,” he said. “That’s all I know.” I opened the cabin door and walked out on deck. Worn wooden planks of an old dock stretched toward shore where a small house snuggled up against a bulkhead. Sunshine lit up trees, gardens and houses. This looked like a place that demanded exploring, but I knew we had a full day of oceanographic sampling ahead of us. From the town’s peaceful appearance, I would not have guessed that Home had once been called, “a festering nest of poisonous anarchists.”

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the water shallows considerably; and farther out, the anchorage is exposed to southerly winds. If you are anchoring for the night and the forecast is for strong southeasterlies, you'll feel more secure in Mayo Cove, a mile and a half away. The launch ramp is popular among local boaters, making for a steady stream of traffic on the ramp. The shore to the east of the ramp is labeled "private," but there's ample public land to leave a dinghy to the west (left) of the ramp. We also found Von Geldern Cove and Home to be a good spot to wait for an outgoing tide through the Tacoma Narrows. Our cruising group anchored a bit offshore and took our dinghies to the launch ramp. While making our way ashore, I looked for the dock to which the University boats had tied, but didn’t see it — or any other docks. From the ramp, we hiked along a road on the north side of the cove, passing small wooden cottages and one grand brick house. Eventually the road reached a highway where we found a onestory clapboard building. A neon sign in a window advertised “Bud.” In the corner of one of the windows, a small paper sign invited us to “Dine out at Home.” The store was closed for Memorial Day, but we peered through the front window to see tables and chairs and store shelves. “Every meal in Home would be a Home-cooked meal,” someone joked. Someone else suggested, “If they had a baseball team, we could root for the Home team,” (in fact, at one time Home did have a baseball team with just that motto). That reminded one of the club members of a hitchhiker that she had picked up near here once. “Where do you live,” she asked him. “Home,” he replied. “No, she said, “Where is your house?” He was insistent, “I told you, Home.” The Town of Home was one of five communitarian colonies established in western Washington toward the end of the nineteenth century. Frustrated by the growing dependence on machines, urbanization, and the unequal distribution of wealth, the colonists sought a new way of living. Although each colony had a different governing structure and political beliefs, all aimed to create a sense of community. All eventually disbanded. Home was established in 1896 by three refugees from a failed utopian colony near Tacoma. They wanted to live in a community where the only requirement of its citizens was to respect the rights of others. On the shores of Von Geldern Cove, they bought 26 acres of land at $2.50 per acre and drew up a compact for the Mutual Home Colony Association. A couple from Virginia contributed an adjoining 299 acres. The association then offered lots to individuals who shared their dream of a better world. Ownership of the land stayed with the colony but if settlers left, they could sell any improvements they made. To spread the word of their colony, members started a newspaper, The Discontent, which became an open forum for liberal views and was freely mailed to anyone who showed an interest. The colony grew, eventually reaching 250 residents. It had an orchard, a school, stores, a debating society, a band, and community halls where residents could take classes in art, yoga, spiritualism and other subjects. Occasional controversial visitors — including Emma Goldman, the famous anarchist from Tacoma — came to give talks.

I didn’t return until many years later, but I’ve navigated back several times now including this summer, drawn to the place’s unusual history, and its undeniably quaint appeal as a cruising destination. Since docking at Home in the University’s ship, I married, graduated, moved back east and then, with my husband Steve, sailed from Boston to Seattle in our Chesapeake 32 sloop, Velella. My first trip back Home was in 1982 — Steve and I were on a weekend cruise with the Puget Sound Cruising Club to Penrose Point State Park, a short distance from Von Geldern Cove and Home. I persuaded several club members to accompany us to the puzzling little village. The best anchorage in Von Geldern Cove is off the boat launch ramp on the north side of the cove. We found good holding and no noticeable currents there. Farther into the head of the cove, 48º NORTH

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The low bridge for the Key Penninsula Highway keeps large craft out of the head of the cove. Home’s colonists called themselves “anarchists” and flew red flags (the historic symbol for left-wing politics) from the small boats they kept in the cove. They believed that people should obtain harmony by free agreements, not government regulations. Unfortunately for the colonists, to the larger population “anarchy” implied not harmony, but violence and chaos. Home’s beliefs came under suspicion in September, 1901, when a gunman who called himself an anarchist shot President McKinley in Buffalo, NY. Tacoma papers worked their readers into a frenzy, convincing vigilantes that the shooter was part of a conspiracy that included anarchists in Home. Historians have struggled to separate stories of this time from exaggerations. Some stories attribute Home’s escape from mayhem to a Captain Edward Lorenz, a steamship captain whose boats regularly carried passengers between Home and Tacoma. In one story, Lorenz announced engine failure to a shipload of angry vigilantes and kept the ship drifting while he repaired it — until it became too late to journey to Home. In others, the captain merely declined to charter a vessel to the vigilantes. Another story has Home residents preparing a feast to welcome vigilantes who never arrive. Essays in The Discontent on free love and the rights of women at this time raised the Postmaster’s suspicions. At his request, a U.S. Marshal arrested three residents of Home for mailing obscene materials. The trial convened in Tacoma, but when the judge read the materials, he did not find them obscene and dismissed the case. Unable to overrule the judge, the Postmaster simply closed the Home Post Office, forcing its residents to use the Lakebay Post Office in the next cove. Perhaps deterred by the loss of Home’s post office, The Discontent ceased publication, to be replaced later by The Demonstrator and still later by The Agitator. The Mutual Home Colony began to disintegrate as colonists moved away and the next generation chose college and careers over the colony. Then, in 1909 the colony changed its rules and allowed individual members to own and sell land, eventually dissolving the legal agreement that limited land occupancy to colony members. Home became just another rural town. Was Home a true anarchist colony? Looking for a definition of anarchy, I read a September 2020 New York Times article, inspired by accusations that some U.S. cities had become “anarchist societies.” The article explains that anarchy does 48º NORTH

not mean chaos, but rather “living in a stateless society… run by direct democracy,” meaning without government, and therefore without laws. Although anarchy was definitely a subject for debate, Home in the early 1900s was not a stateless society, nor did its members advocate violence. As anarchist Emma Goldman observed: the colonists were more interested in vegetables and chickens than propaganda. In 2017, Steve and I visited Home again, this time in our Annapolis 44 sloop, Osprey. We were anchored at Penrose Point State Park when Steve discovered Osprey’s batteries needed water and our distilled water jug was empty. Was the Home store still there? I found it on Google Maps and phoned. Yes, they carried distilled water. We raised anchor and motored into Von Geldern Cove, anchoring off the launch ramp. Not wanting to take the time to walk, we took the dinghy up the inlet, under a low bridge of the two-lane Key Peninsula Highway and into a small treelined lagoon. Even with highway noise, it was peaceful there with the water reflecting the image of an old wooden building. I remembered that Von Geldern Cove had once been called Joe’s Bay, perhaps after Joe Faulkner, the first settler to the area, or perhaps to ridicule a fisherman who got drunk, fell overboard and drowned. “Joe’s Bay” seemed a more suitable name for this little cove rather than the grandiose “Von Geldern Cove” given to it by Captain Vancouver. While Steve waited in the dinghy, I scrambled up a bank and crossed the street to a modern-looking building with a large red and blue “Food Mart/Deli” sign on its side. A more rustic sign over the doorway read “Home Country Store 1914.”

The rustic country store sign on its modern building. Back on Osprey, Steve watered the batteries while I sat in the cockpit enjoying the sunny afternoon. Suddenly I heard, “Ahoy Osprey!” I looked around to see a man, a stranger, in a beautiful laminated wooden kayak just off Osprey’s stern. “Are you Elsie?” he asked. “I wanted to thank you for the articles you write in boating magazines.” Surprised, I leaned over to talk to him and learned he had recognized Osprey from the articles. He told me that he had first come to Home as a child, visiting his grandparents. “They owned one of the old community halls where the residents debated anarchy. It was fun to see it, but those buildings are all gone now,” he said. Remembering the wooden dock, I said, “When I was a student in the ‘60s, I came here in the University of Washington’s research vessels and we tied up at an old dock. I’ve been trying

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Remnants of the old Mosquito Fleet dock where the author's ship made landfall in Home all those years ago. to figure out where it was.” “That would have been the old Mosquito Fleet dock,” he said. Mosquito Fleet referred to a loose conglomeration of privately owned shipping companies that ran passenger and freight boats throughout Puget Sound until the World War II era. I was awed to think I had actually been in a ship tied to a dock of the historic Mosquito Fleet. A critical part of Puget Sound’s economy, the fleet’s steamers provided at least one round-trip daily to Home and were so much a part of life at Home that residents situated their houses so they could see the steamer coming into the harbor. “The dock’s cement footings are over there,” he said, pointing to some substantial stone pilings just west of the launch ramp. If I squinted, I could imagine the old dock there. Residents built the wharf themselves and sold firewood to the steamers which regularly called at the Cove. Other jobs were scarce and many Home residents took temporary jobs in Tacoma, Seattle, or Alaska, relying on the steamers for transportation. Women and children picked huckleberries in the late summer and sold them in Tacoma via the steamer. In 2020, Steve and I visited Home when Covid-19 closed the border between Canada and the U.S and forced us to cancel a planned trip to Vancouver Island. Reluctant to face the crowds in the San Juan Islands, we opted for a trip to the South Sound. Landing our dinghy on the launch ramp, we strolled along the road, enjoying the sunshine and views of the water. Next to the large brick house, we found several cement monuments with bronze plaques. One noted that the street was on the National Register of Historic Places. Another described Home’s residents as “people of radical yet tolerant thought’ whose newspapers “reflected the community’s interests in government, free speech, women’s rights, and other issues that still concern society.” No mention of anarchism. Continuing along the road, we were approaching the store, when I noticed a post office across the street. Remembering the controversy over Home’s post office I checked the building’s sign. In large letters across the top it read, “Lakebay Post Office.” Smaller letters below read, “Serving, Herron, Home, Lakebay, Longbranch.” In 1958, years after closing the Home Post Office, the USPS had decided the Lakebay location, originally chosen for access by boat, was too small. They moved the post office to Home but, despite the pleadings of Home residents, left its name as Lakebay. 48º NORTH

We went into the store to buy bread, donning our masks as we entered. Next to a cash register, a woman was scooping out what looked like chicken teriyaki from a serving pan. Noticing me watching, she said, “We had planned on adding a restaurant but then Covid hit. Maybe next year.” On the way back to our dinghy, a small mop of a dog charged down a walkway at us, barking madly and trailing its leash behind. I clamped my foot on the leash to keep the dog out of the street then looked up to see a woman in her eighties or nineties just a few feet away. “You’ve got a beautiful place here,” I told her, admiring the manicured yards and gardens of pink, red and yellow flowering plants

Today, Home makes a quaint, beautiful cruising stopover with particularly lovely gardens. “Yes, we love it,” she said, gazing out at the calm waters of Von Geldern Cove glistening in the sun. “The first time we came here was forty years ago. I knew immediately it was the place for us.” Her obvious love for Home reminded me of my first visit there as a student. I had been right in wanting to return. It was a perfect place to visit in a boat: a launch ramp to go ashore, a public road with views of the water for walking, a store, a post office, and some seriously interesting history.

Elsie Hulsizer is the author of Glaciers, Bears and Totems: Sailing in Search of the Real Southeast Alaska and Voyages to Windward: Sailing Adventures on Vancouver Island’s West Coast. See more of her work at www.elsiehulsizer.com, where you may also find a link to her sailblog: @Ospreyvoages.

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WINTER VASHON

2020

Winter Vashon, hosted by Tacoma Yacht Club, kicks off the iconic Southern Sound Series. A series of four sailing races over four consecutive months run by different yacht clubs — Three Tree Point Yacht Club’s Duwamish Head, Olympia Yacht Club’s Toliva Shoal, and Gig Harbor Yacht Club’s Islands Race, along with Winter Vashon — the Southern Sound Series is the official start to the new season of racing. Indeed, it is the first event that qualifies sailors for 48° North’s coveted Top 25. Winter Vashon racers had braced for a cold, wet, windless attempt at circumnavigating Vashon Island. The race, this year on December 5, has been infamous for light and twitchy 48º NORTH

winds in recent years. But if it can’t be windy, at least it could rain! However, as the race committee’s starting clocked wound toward zero, the fog had parted, a rainbow appeared, the wind came up, and dozens of boats went off the starting line enjoying some extra Vitamin D in the sunshine. In total, 56 boats registered and 46 actually crossed the start line. This year, the Southern Sound Series includes a single and doublehanded class to enable more sailors to participate while staying well within any Covid-19 restrictions. The new offering proved to be popular, with close to half of the registrants opting for this class.

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Walkers at the waterfront park by Tacoma Yacht Club stopped to watch the brilliant spectacle of sailboats with full spinnakers head off across the bay. Meanwhile on the water, sailors jockeyed for position at the start and tried to make those all important gains before turning north to follow the current up Colvos Passage. Racing up Colvos Passage is always an experience, and this year’s sunshine made it as pretty as ever. With such a narrow race course, interactions between boats are very common. Frequent jibes, ducks, close crosses, and lead changes were the features of the day — all keeping drivers, tacticians, and sail trimmers on their toes. There was enough wind to propel boats up Colvos Passage to the north mark near the Vashon Ferry dock, but not enough to send them back down to Tacoma, so an early call was made to shorten the course and finish everyone at the top of the island. Many racers expressed appreciation for the call to shorten the race. Most racers were able to go home in daylight. In the end, all but two of the 46 boats were able to finish. No stranger to South Sound Series podiums (any podiums, really), Mark Harang won the new Shorthanded Class on his Evelyn 32, Nimbus, by a fairly wide margin. He was followed by Sara Billey’s Peer Gynt and Jeanne Goussev’s Gray Wolf. In the fully crewed classes, wins went to a mix of top regional racers and South Sound locals who showed off their Colvos savvy.

John Bailey's elegant Sir Isaac making it look easy. TIME WARP’S UNUSUAL FIRST RACE IN THE PNW Avid sailor, intermittent 48° North contributor, and founder of the Multihull Youth Sail Association (MY SAIL) Peter Nelson has a new boat. His first racing weekend didn’t go as hoped, but he’s still stoked! Since it is considered to be the first regatta of the new sailing season, getting to the start line for Winter Vashon became

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A parade in the race to Colvos (left to right): Terrmoto, Sonic, Tachyon, Constellation, and Absolutely. the goal for our family’s new-to-us Farr 395, Time Warp. After sitting in a yard getting worked on all of October, she was finally splashed mid-November. Our crew of five went out the weekend before Vashon to see what the sail inventory looked like. We put up most — but, critically, not all — of the sails… We wouldn’t regret that, would we? The delivery from Shilshole to Tacoma Yacht Club (TYC) the Friday before the race went well enough…for the first hour. Somewhere in the middle of Elliott Bay, I went down below to find water coming up from the floorboards. Not a good sign. “Hmmm, where did I see that bilge pump handle? Dang. I can’t remember.” After an hour of conferring with the shore crew, it became apparent I wasn’t going to be able to fix this problem on the water. The engine was out except for short periods of no more than 10-15 minutes. Decision time: make for Elliott Bay Marina, or forge ahead to Tacoma? I chose the latter, having faith in the three mechanically-skilled friends set to crew for the next day’s race – Ray McCormack, Jeff Janders, and Bob Curley. I hoisted the mainsail on my new boat, threw out the Code Zero, and had a

marvelous sail down the sound to Point Robinson. I was having so much fun, I forgot that Colvos Passage is actually faster; or that there would be other boats taking that course, some of whom might give a tow if needed! I inadvertently passed near a pod of orca whales on the south side of Maury Island, and that was a nice bonus. But as the sun set, so did the wind. I could see Tacoma Yacht Club about 5 miles away, but with no wind and no engine, I wasn’t going to make it. Fortunately, Ray was able to come out on a Beneteau 46 and tow me in. Whew. Long day. Saturday morning “da boys” MacGyvered the engine enough to solve the problem in the short term. We thought our troubles were behind us… then we discovered a new problem. The one spinnaker we had brought was ripped to shreds at the tapes. Looks like that was one we had not put up the week before. Ooops, no kite. We sailed the length of Colvos on a Code Zero, except when we tried going wing-on-wing with a 105% jib. (That didn’t work out so well either!) We found ourselves in a real dogfight with three other boats trying not to finish last. We reversed the order, so “4th” meant you were 4th from last. Unfortunately, we got our first “first” that day, finishing about 20 minutes after sunset. Marek Omilian’s well sailed TP 52, Sonic, won our class, finishing more than three hours ahead of us. Charley Macauley’s Absolutely was a mere two hours ahead of us, and the closest boat in our class beat us by a full hour! At the final tally, there were a few bruised egos but it was a wonderful day of sailing among good friends. Win or lose, with the wrong spinnaker or water incursion problems — our first weekend with the boat was still a ton of fun and totally worth it. The Southern Sound Series continues with the Duwamish Head Race on January 9, 2021, the Toliva Shoal Race on February 13, 2021, and the Islands Race on March 20, 2021. More information and results are available on the series website at ssseries.org.

Cal 33, Cherokee, positions to windward of her fleet on the way to a class win.

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By Sue Sholin and Peter Nelson Photos by Jan Anderson

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Photo by: Wan Chen

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J/35 Ready to race or cruise. Many recent upgrades, well maintained: standing rigging replaced, mast overhaul, rudder bearings, solar panel, excellent sail inventory, all new running rigging 2020, raptor deck, espar heat, burnished Black Widow bottom paint. Call/text for full description: (360) 556-5200. $ 36,500.

CLASSIC ALBERG 35 Loved by same family for 53 yrs. Prof upgraded & maint by boatbuilder/owner. New: propane stove, cabin htr, prop, shaft, cutlass, coupling. Roller furling jib & main. Go to: classicalberg35forsale.com for more pics & specs. Free moorage on buoy/float in Port Madison till 5/21. Jim. llewellyn47@gmail.com or (206) 842 4552. $27,500 firm.

VIKING RESCYOU OCEAN PRO 8-MAN LIFE RAFT Viking RescYou Ocean Pro 8-man liferaft in cannister ($4300 new) With Stainless mounting cradle ($430 new). Newly certified (cost $1400). Required for all offshore racing (including Swiftsure). Never deployed. Pick-up Seattle/Bainbridge Island. jim.llewellyn47@gmail.com or (206) 842 4552. $2,650.

MILLER MARINE 41FT DECK SALON Miller Marine Deck Salon. 12 inch Raymarine touch screen chart plotter, radar and auto pilot. 8.5 ft dinghy, 2.5hp Suzuki motor. Propane gimbaled stove, refridge and freezer. Diesel stove heat, berths for 6, teak interior. Roller furling genoa and spinnaker, composite main, dyneema running rigging. Bernard 360-840-9510. $98,000.

1965 CHEOY LEE FRISCO FLYER With trailer. New Vetus 2cyl diesel engine. New 3 Blade Prop & new SS Prop Shaft. Teak veneer decking removed, deck evacuated, sealed and new structural reinforcement added. New fiberglass applied to Bulk heads. Interior is 90% removed to set up for racing. New roller furling. For details: (253) 380-8926. $7,850

2007 FLYING TIGER 10M AND TRAILER Robert Perry designed 33' sport boat with 2018 electric start Tohatsu 9.8 outboard. Phrf about 54. Boat has carbon fiber mast and boom Betts carbon fiber rudder and tiller, and stock rudder and tiller. The trailer is heavy duty, double axel aluminum trailer. Was in the top 25 race boats on Puget Sound for 2019. SOLD!

J/24 SAILBOAT US 1379 North American champion Ventura, California, 5 yrs in storage and now for sale. Fully measured certificates Several sets of sails (Ullman), on excellent trailer, no motor. $7500 without trailer. Price firm and for serious racers. Trailer has hydraulic brakes, new tires. Contact Ray at (209) 772-9695. $10,500

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1967 ISLANDER 21’ Complete refit/refurbish 2010. New Honda 5 2019 (2hrs). Roomy V-birth and nice little cabin w/ galley. Includes trailer w/ new tires/rims. 2 jibs, 160% genny, storm sail, new tanbark Main 2015. 5W Solar panel w/ smart regulator. More included. Slip possible. Dinghy also for sale. For more info contact Chuck Johnson: chuck@kinnik.com or (360) 379-0963. $4,500.

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NAVIGATION SYSTEM Includes Garmin 3210 (no scratches), GMS 10 Port Expander, GSD 22 inch Depth =$60/month Sounder, KVH AutoComp 1000 1.5 Heading Sensor includes Blue Seas Switchad 4302, 24 Mile Business Classified Garmin Radar, Chip updater, DC Sub PNL 12 Position w/ Specializing in All cables, 2016 March issuecomplete. PROOF fuses Blue Seas 5026. All manuals andMarine serial numbers. Heating,Everything works great. All or none. Price is firm. Jim Armstrong (425) 244-1115. $1600

Air Conditioning & 4 8 ºRefrigeration NORTH

Cliff Valentine

MARINAS 6327 Seaview Ave NW Seattle, WAto98107 Gateway the San Juans 34’ (206) - 50’ slips for lease/purchase Phone 789-7350 Free Wifi, Pumpouts & Showers, Fuel, Store /Café

Fax (206) 789-6392

(360) 371-0440 • semiahmoomarina.com Email calla@48north.com

LIBERTY BAY MARINA 40’ - 48’ - 60’ open slips. Great location in Poulsbo, WA Restrooms, Showers.

75 WORDS NORTHWESTRIGGING.COM 5 PHOTOS WITH ONLINE 1 PHOTO WITH PRINT

360-779-7762 or 360-509-0178

PURCHASE Full service rig shop servingONLINE: the Puget Sound

ANACORTES MARINA

! IG Y R LL A C LO

Nancy Anderson - Seattle 206/669-0329 • sureritesigns@gmail.com www.sureritesigns.com

1.5 inch =$60/month Business Classified ad 2016 March issue PROOF

V E SS E L M OV I N G

V E SS L M N Gsmall, No ocean tooEbig, noOV tripI too No toolarge, big, no no ocean ship too no trip masttoo toosmall, tall, no too large, no mast tooall!!! tall, sailship or power, we move them sail oryou power, we move them When are ready, give us aall!!! call. When you are service ready, give us1967. a call. Professional since Professional service since 1967. CappyTom@aol.com

• CUSTOM PRICE PER MONTH SPLICING & ROPE SALES

eattle

Nancy Anderson - Seattle 206/669-0329 • sureritesigns@gmail.com www.sureritesigns.com

Tim Huse 206-354-9039 tim@ballardyachtrigging.com

Y IL LL SA BA O L

(206) 789-7350 (360) Phone 503-8874 | kim@nwmaritime.org Espar Parts • Sales • Service Fax by(206) 789-6392 (206) 548-1306 Eberspächer email jen@48north.com www.nwmarineair.com

Standing Rigging • Running Rigging • Electronics Splicing • Furlers • Lifelines • Inspections • Plumbing Hydraulics • Troubleshooting • Power Boats, Too

with fin keel and spade rudder is in excellent shape. Standing and running rigging in good shape. $16,900.

Phone (206) 789-7350 Fax (206) 789-6392 www.evergreenrigging.com - (360) 207-5016 email jen@48north.com

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

Ballard Yacht Rigging

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a om

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Full service rig shop serving the Puget Sound

MOORAGE FOR SALE

48NORTH.COM/SUBMIT-CLASSIFIED

BUSINESS CLASSIFIEDS

CONTACT KACHELE YELACA AT KACHELE@48NORTH.COM

Cliff Hennen ‑ (206) 718‑5582 48 www.evergreenrigging.com ‑ (360) 207‑5016

Annual moorage available now: 32’ to 80’ Open and 32’ to 60’ Covered slips. In town rental slips w/security gates, mini storage, full service boat yard, fuel dock & pump out on site. Anacortesmarina.com or (360) 293-4543 JANUARY 2021

INSTRUCTION

CLUBS 1945

2021

The Best Racing in the Northwest • On the Lake or Sound • Active Cruising • Reciprocal Rights Corinthian Yacht Club of Seattle 7755 Seaview Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98117 Phone (206) 789-1919 for information www.cycseattle.org

MARINE EQUIPMENT

Tethys

Offshore Sailing for Women Nancy Erley, Instructor 206.789.5118

nancy@tethysoffshore.com www.tethysoffshore.com

SLOOP TAVERN YACHT CLUB 2442 NW Market St. #94, Seattle, WA 98107 “Established in Ballard since 1976” $90 Annual Dues - Reciprocal Moorages High quality sailing at the lowest cost For more info call Mike at (206) 265-9459

MARINE EQUIPMENT FREE unlimited day sailing on the club boats.

• Sail on Puget Sound out of Shilshole Bay Marina • Full Service Sailing Club/Pro Shop/Brokerage • All the advantages of ownership w/out the hassles

• 30+ years of experience •

206-782-5100 www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com

www.taylorsails.com erictaylorsails@gmail.com

7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

INSTRUCTION

PICK UP AND DELIVERY AVAILABLE FREE ESTIMATES FAST, QUALITY WORK 5015 15TH AVE. NW, SEATTLE

(206) 783-1696 WWW.MACTOPS.COM

Distributor of HYPERVENT, a woven polymer bonded to a breathable fabric to fight on-board condensation and mold. The 3/4-inch polymer loops will not compress, allowing for plenty of dry air to circulate wherever it's placed. • HELM CHAIRS • GALLERY CUSHIONS • MATTRESSES • BUNK CURTAINS • EQUIPMENT COVERS

CLUBS CROSSWORD SOLUTION

KEEPS MATTRESSES CLEAN & SANITARY–ALWAYS STAYS TUCKED CHEAPER THAN CUSTOM SHEETS–FORM FITS ANY MATTRESS

• Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons • Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons • Spinnaker, Intro and Advance Racing Classes

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206-782-5100

www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com

7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

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Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2021

WaterLine homeport for helmsman trawlers ®

boats

WLB Brokerage -

boatshedseattle | boatshedtacoma boatshedeverett | boatshedporttownsend

View our entire inventory of boats for sale at waterlineboats.com

DONATE YOUR BOAT

SUPPORT PROGRAMS 1981 REDUCED HATTERAS CPMY

1984 LOWLAND 471 LONG RANGE TRAWLER

The Northwest Maritime Center is seeking tax deductible donation of vessels in good programs. condition to raise money for our programs We will consider boats of all types and sizes, though most appealing would be fiberglass boats on trailers or ones with a proven track record for cruising.

2017 REDUCED HELMSMAN TRAWLERS 38E

2019 RANGER TUGS R-27 NW EDITION

SEATTLE - 206 282 0110 | PORT TOWNSEND - 425 246 5101

48º NORTH

Contact Kris Day at kris@nwmaritime.org or 360.503.8874 Looking for a few good boats.

JANUARY 2021

With offices in Canada, Washington, California, Florida, & the Philippines

info@seattleyachts.com

844.692.2487

www.SeattleYachts.com

Seattle Yachts is Now Your West Coast Hanse, Tartan, Moody, & Dehler Yachts Dealer & Broker!

2021 HANSE 458 - On Order to Seattle, WA

2021 Tartan 395 - On Order to San Diego, CA

2021 Hanse 388 - On Order to Anacortes, WA

2020 Tartan 365 - On Order Anacortes, WA - NEW MODEL

2017 Elan E4 - In Stock

2020 Tartan 345 - In Stock

2016 Fountaine Pajot 58' $1,350,905 Tom Mowbray 415.497.3366

2016 Moody DS 54' - 2 Available! Kenyon Martin 858.775.5937

2016 Jeanneau Yacht 54' $599,999 Patrick Harrigan 360.982.8682

Alameda, CA

ANACORTES 28th & R Avenue 719 28th St, Ste B Anacortes, WA 98221 (360) 299-0777

Anacortes, WA

SEATTLE Shilshole Marina 7001 Seaview Ave NW, Suite 150 Seattle, WA 98117 (206) 789-8044

Professionally staffed! Open 6 days, Sun by appt.

(619) 224-2349 • Fax (619) 224-4692 • 2330 Shelter Island Dr. #207 San Diego, CA 92106 www.yachtfinders.biz • Toll-Free (866) 341-6189 • info@yachtfinders.biz

A Leader in Brokerage Sales on the West Coast 63' MASON 63 ’82 $249,500 “AVENIR” Absolutely beautiful vessel. Constantly maintained to exceptional standards. Major refit in 20 08. Successfully cruised by two.

53' J BOATS J160 ’97 $399,500 “HANA HOU” Fast sleek cruiser with new electronics, new main and jib, sail covers, dodger and bimini. Many upgrades.

49' GOETZ CUSTOM ’97 $45,000 “NUMBERS” A very competitive and highly optimized racer in good condition, ready for the next buoy or offshore regatta.

38' CABO RICO ’85 $92,000 “TRUANT” High-quality vessel. Beautiful woodwork below. Full keel cruiser proven in the Sea of Cortez and SoCal.

33' HOBIE 33 ’83 $22,500 “MAYHEM”Highly modified for offshore racing. Open transom, reinforced bulkheads, and much more.

30' TA SHING BABA 30 ’79 $44,500 “BLUE MOON” Comfortable cruising boat for a small crew. Cutter rig, roller furling headsails, convenient cockpit controls.

30' CATALINA 30 ’85 $21,900 “SHOOGS” Perfect vessel for entry level boat owner. Easy to sail & maintain. Large interior. Motivated sellers!

39' BENETEAU ’06 $149,000

“LIO K AI” A well kept and “prepared for cruising” Beneteau 393. Substantial inventory. No need to “equip”. Ready to walk on and cruise.

LI NEW ST IN G

32' MORGAN 321 ’82 $31,900

“IMAGINE” A pristine boat! Upgraded and maintained to a high degree. Low engine hours. Day-sailed regularly and successfully raced.

Please Support the Advertisers Who Bring You 48° North ASPEN.........................................................8

Jeanneau................................................. 56

Scan Marine/Wallas.............................. 25

Ballard Sails............................................ 45

Mahina Expeditions.............................. 35

Seattle Sailing Club.................................3

Beta Marine West.....................................9

Marine Servicenter.........................13, 56

Seattle Yachts........................................ 51

Cape George Marine Works................ 50

Milltech Marine..................................... 23

Seventh Wave Marine.......................... 17

CSR Marine............................................. 35

Northwest Rigging................................ 35

Signature Yachts.................................... 55

Drivelines NW........................................ 23

NW Marine Trade Association............ 17

Swiftsure Yachts.................................... 53

First Federal........................................... 21

NWMC Donate You Boat...................... 50

Ullman Sails........................................... 25

Fisheries Supply.......................................4

Port of Bellingham................................ 21

WA360..................................................... 50

Flagship Maritime................................. 35

Port Townsend Rigging........................ 11

Waterline Boats..................................... 50

Gallery Marine....................................... 23

Ports and Passes.................................... 25

West Yachts............................................ 54

Gateway Yachts..................................... 10

Rubicon .................................................. 19

Yachtfinders/ Windseekers................. 52

Geico........................................................ 15

Sail Northwest..........................................2

Yager Sails & Canvas............................ 23

Iverson's Design.................................... 35

Sail Rite......................................................7

48º NORTH

JANUARY 2021

quality yachts from swiftsureyachts.com Lucia Rose was not

Lucia Rose the boat they set 2005 Island Packet 445 out to find, but $328,000 when the current

owners saw this Island Packet 445 with its gorgeous navy hull in person, the love affair began. Sometimes the right boat chooses YOU! Originally from North Carolina and moved over land to the West Coast, Lucia Rose has been in the care of her current owners in BC waters since 2013. Stunning and rare to market, this Island Packet 445 is set up for cruising the PNW and beyond. Very low hours and beautifully-kept. Come see why the Island Packet 445 is the preferred choice for cruisers seeking a well-built, well-appointed center-cockpit for their extended cruising adventures. Below decks, you will find an interior that welcomes you with a bright and relaxing living space, loads of headroom and storage, and finished with high-quality, luxurious materials. – simon cox price reduced

Cabo Rico 42 • 2001 • $295,000

Baltic 50 • 1999 • $399,900

Perry Far Harbour 39 • 2010 • $139,950

Outbound 46 • 2007 • $425,000

two hylas 49 models

Waterline 48 • 1997 • $299,000

Hylas 49 • 2001 • $420,000 (pictured) Hylas 49 • 2003 • $435,000

64 Frers

1978

$325,000 42 Hatteras

1980

50 Valiant

2001

$275,000 42 Catalina

1995

51 Able Apogee

2000 $349,000 42 Perry

48 Chris White Atlantic 2010 $565,000 39 Swan 391 46 Hylas

45 Beneteau Oceanis 45 Hallberg Rassy 45 Morris

42 Valiant

1996 $295,000 39 Perry Far Harbour 2017 $349,000 38 Ohlson 1991

$250,000 37 Bavaria 37

1997

$215,000 34 Cabo Rico

2000 $450,000 37 Najad 373

NEW SAILING YACHTS FOR WORLD CRUISING

$87,500

1980

$99,000

1983

$125,000

2010

1984

$119,500

$139,950

$125,000

2007 149,000CAD

2001 $199,000

1995

$129,000

44 Hanse 445 • 2013 • $325,000

46 Dehler 46c • 2017 • $419,000

price reduced

Wylie/Fox 44 • 2006 • $94,000

FIVE LOCATIONS TO SERVE WEST COAST YACHTSMEN Seattle (Main Office) Sidney, BC Bainbridge Island Anacortes San Francisco Bay Area

SwiftsureYachts

www.swiftsureyachts.com 206.378.1110 | info@swiftsureyachts. com 2540 Westlake Ave. N. Seattle WA 98109 facebook.com/swiftsureyachts

WELCOME 34' C&C Nelson Tayler Design Admiral’s Launch 1982

West Yachts is Selling Boats!! Quality Sail and Power Listings Wanted.

SAIL:

41' MORGAN 1981

40' HINCKLEY BERMUDA 1970

50' Herreshoff Caribbean Ketch 1977 47' Beneteau 2004 45' Hardin XL 1983 44' Kelly Peterson 1975 44' Spencer 1330 1979 43' Irwin Mk lll 1987 41' Hunter Deck Salon 2006 41' Morgan 1981 40' Hinckley Bermuda 1970 37.5' Beneteau First 365 1985 36' Islander Freeport 1979 Major Refit! 35' Ta Shing Baba 1979 33' Saturna Pilothouse 1981 33' Wauquiez Gladiateur 1983

POWER: 72' Monk McQueen Cockpit Motor Yacht 1977 - Totally refurbished!! 46' Nielson Trawler 1981 43’ Ocean Alexander 1983 36' Grand Banks 1989 34' C&C Nelson Tayler Design Admiral's Lauch 1982 24' Maxum 240 SCR 1995

33' SATURNA PILOTHOUSE 1981

info@west-yachts.com 1019 Q Ave. Suite D, Anacortes, WA

(360) 299-2526 • www.west-yachts.com

Successfully serving clients for 28 years

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WWW.SIGNATURE-YACHTS.COM

Beneteau First 27

Beneteau Oceanis 30.1

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47’ Beneteau 473 ’02 �� $189,000 42’ Beneteau 423 ’08 �� $174,000 42’ Catalina 42 ’92 �� $99,000 41’ Beneteau 41�1 ‘17 �� $269,900

Amel 50

Boats are selling. We need listings! ngs

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Pre-owned Boats Ou

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At Beneteau Oceanis 46.1

Fountaine Pajot Astréa 42

Beneteau Oceanis 40.1

Beneteau Oceanis 38.1

41' Beneteau 411 ‘00 �� $110,000 40’ Hunter 40�5 ’93 �� $99,000 34’ Nordic 34 ’87 �� $59,900 32’ Catalina 32 ’97 �� $59,900

48' Beneteau 48 ’13 ��Sale Pending 46' Beneteau 46�1 ’21 ��Arriving Sold 41' Beneteau 41�1 ‘ 17 �� SOLD 40' Beaneteau 40 ‘09 ��$159,000 40' Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi 40 ‘04�� Sale Pending 39' Corbin 39 ‘81 �� SOLD 38' Beneteau Oceanis 38�1 ‘21 ��Arriving Sold 38' Beneteau 38�1 ‘18 �� SOLD 37' Beneteau 37 ’17 �� SOLD 36' Beneteau 361 ’04 �� SOLD 36' Islander 36 ‘73 �� SOLD 35' Beneteau 35�1’21 ��Arriving Sold CHB Trawler ‘94 ��Sale Pending 31' Beaneteau 310 ‘92 ��Sale Pending 32' Bayliner Avanti 3258 ’95 �� SOLD 30' Owens Flagship ’50 �� SOLD 28' Catalina 28 �� SOLD

2476 Westlake Ave N. #101, Seattle, WA 98109 • (206) 284-9004 Open Monday - Saturday 10:00am - 5:00pm • Sunday by appointment

SEATTLE · JANUARY 28-31

RSVP TO VIEW!

2022 Jeanneau 349 #75458 : $198,642

2021 Jeanneau 410 #75454: $348,855

2022 Jeanneau 440 #75456: $419,846

2022 Jeanneau 490 #75822: $529,786

IN PERSON, COVID SAFE, APPOINTMENT ONLY EVENT Showings on the hour, sanitizing between showings, immediate family members

JANUARY 28-31 • MARINE SERVICENTER 2442 WESTLAKE AVE. N.

RSVP REQUIRED: 206-323-2405 or info@marinesc.com MARINESC.COM | JEANNEAU.COM

January 2021 48° North

Articles inside

Destination: Home

The Winding Path to a Northwest 32

A Parting Delivery

Artist’s View - Secrets of the Salish Sea

Galley Essentials with Amanda