July 2022 48° North Digital by 48° North

32 BURNABY NARROWS

37 JEDEDIAH ISLAND

JULY 2022

28 HOMEWARD BOUND, PART 2

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JULY 2022

FEATURES Homeward Bound, Part 2: Singapore to Japan

PNW-based cruisers sail home through the COVID-closed world.

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Wild Burnaby Narrows

Discovering the incredible land and sea life of the "Galapagos of the North." By Greg Larsen

Echoes of a Homesteading Past

Sheep, goats and anchorages aplenty on Jedediah Island. By Lauren Upham

COLUMNS Three Sheets Northwest: Cowichan Bay

A charming seaside village with a throwback vibe. By Deborah Bach

Beacon Background: Point Wilson Lighthouse

The scenic light where the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Admiralty Inlet meet. By Lisa Mighetto

MY BOAT: Custom Dogpatch 26, Moonshine

Its retro look, hard chines and plywood construction turns heads.

RACING California Offshore Race Week

Seattle-based sailors win big in this three race coastal series. By Alex Simanis

SEVENTY48

Team SEASTR’s race odyssey from Tacoma to Port Townsend. By Erica Lichty

ON THE COVER: A dramatic sunset over Coal Harbour in Vancouver, British Columbia. Photo by Andy Cross.

Background photo courtesy of Deborah Bach.

CONTENTS

By Peter and Ginger Niemann

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Editor

Volume XLI, Number 12, July 2022

BEAUTIFUL BRITISH COLUMBIA

On a sunny, early spring day we motored out of Roche Harbor, set our sails and shaped a westerly course toward Vancouver Island. Bounding out into open water, a steady southeasterly breeze put us on a delightful reach and our crew brimmed with enthusiasm. After a winter of preparing our Grand Soleil 39, Yahtzee, our young crew of four was ready to cruise and race the beautiful waters of British Columbia for the next six months. Perfection. Then, about a half-mile or so before crossing the international boundary in Haro Strait, my wife, Jill, poked her head up from the companionway. With a furrowed brow and concerned look in her brown eyes, she reluctantly said, “You're not going to believe this — my passport is expired!” “Tacking!” I shouted, amongst other expletives, and around we went back to the U.S. Of all the work we’d done in the previous months to get ready, how had we overlooked a single passport? Alas, it was but a minor blip on the radar. Several days, a floatplane ride from Friday Harbor to Seattle, hours spent in the downtown passport office and then another plane ride back to Yahtzee, and we were ready to go again. This was our family’s first voyage across the border and the promise of spending spring, summer and fall exploring British Columbia shined bright in our minds. We cleared customs in Sidney with ease and cut our teeth gunkholing through the Gulf Islands — sailing between its picturesque anchorages, walking tree-lined trails, and poking around the small towns and communities that dot the archipelago. From there, we headed south for Victoria to compete in the Swiftsure International Yacht Race. The camaraderie of the event coupled with the arduously tough race was an experience we’ll never forget. Hanging around the southern end of the island for a few days after finishing, we switched Yahtzee from race to cruise mode, then it was time to point the bow north. We zoomed through the Gulf Islands on a brisk southerly and hopped across the Strait of Georgia to the glorious Sunshine Coast. Awe-inspiring Princess Louisa Inlet was a highlight and when we found ourselves in Desolation Sound weeks later, time seemed to stand still. It was all magic. Similar to the wonderful sailing memories our family made in the waters of British Columbia, for generations, other boating families have too. Voyaging this part of the Salish Sea and Inside Passage is almost a rite of passage for many boaters. And though there was a pause in border crossings while COVID-19 changed the world, cruisers from the U.S. are once again making their way into B.C. In doing so, we encourage you to remain respectful and safe while visiting local communities, and leave nothing but goodwill in your wake. As we all should. Along with that spirit of heading north, in this issue of 48° North our authors highlight several British Columbia destinations that range from quaint to completely wild. Deborah Bach gives us a look at the charming working waterfront of Cowichan Bay. Lauren Upham takes us to the homestead-turned-marine-park of Jedediah Island. And Greg Larsen regales us with the wonders of “The Galapagos of the North,” Burnaby Narrows in Haida Gwaii. With that, we wish you all the best breezes on your own memory-making voyages through B.C. Just remember to double check your passport before sailing across the border. Andy Cross Fair winds and following seas,

(206) 789-7350. info@48north.com www.48north.com

Publisher Northwest Maritime Center Editor Andy Cross andy@48north.com Associate Editor Deborah Bach Designer Rainier Powers rainier@48north.com Advertising Sales Kachele Yelaca kachele@48north.com Classifieds classads48@48north.com Photographer Jan Anderson 48° North is published as a project of the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery. Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628 48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best! We are not responsible for unsolicited materials. Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor.

SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS FOR 2022! $39/Year For The Magazine $75/Year For Premium (perks!) www.48north.com/subscribe for details. Prices vary for international or first class. Proud members:

Editor 48° North

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News from the Northwest Maritime Center >> As most readers know, 48° North has been published by the Northwest Maritime Center (NWMC) since 2018. We are continually amazed by the inspiring and important work of our colleagues and organization, and are excited to dedicate this page to sharing a bit about it with you. This page affirms that 48° North is part of something bigger, and that we think the missionminded efforts of our organization matter to our readers, and are good for this community and publication. RAINY YET TRIUMPHANT SEVENTY48 If you were anywhere between Tacoma and Port Townsend between 7 p.m. on June 10 and 7 p.m. on June 12, you might have been mystified by the sheer number of human powered small craft in our Puget Sound waterways. There were kayaks, row boats, canoes, and catamarans. All manner of tiny boats, filled with one or more humans giving it their all to paddle (or, in a few cases, pedal!) 70 miles in only 48 rain-filled hours. Eighty-nine teams crossed the finish line in Port Townsend with Team Imua taking line honors and setting a new SEVENTY48 record of 9 hours, 35 minutes. Team Wave Forager set the solo record of 9 hours, 39 minutes, and teams like Get Kraken avenged their 2021 losses — a favorite line uttered by a team was, “I gotta stop so my daughter will still want to hang out with me in the future.” Every team’s most difficult moment is different and personal, but all involve one of the universal three: broken gear, broken body, or broken spirit (preferably not more than one at a time). The inverse is avoiding all three. However, what makes success will always be philosophically and/or drunkenly debated. Second-guessing will be rampant because we are human, loving to nag on ourselves and others. The only unifying point

of all the seesaw of emotion and vociferous debate is this; 116 teams decided to line up on June 10th and put their bodies and boats to the test. Without that kind of risk — the kind that leaves you raw and vulnerable, scared and hopeful, daring and adventurous — all our lives would be dimmer, sadder copies of ourselves. And we’d have nothing to talk about today. Huzzah to the racers of SEVENTY48! (See page 44 for Team SEASTR’s SEVENTY48 race report.) » Read a full report here: https://seventy48.com/2022-recap/

Racers leave Tacoma en route to Port Townsend. Photo by Dean Burke.

EVENTS CALENDAR » www.nwmaritime.org/events PORT TOWNSEND BAY TOURS Saturdays, July 2 - Sept. 3, 2022 Northwest Maritime Center OPEN SHOP: AN INTRO TO WOODEN BOAT JOINERY July 1-3 Northwest Maritime Center

WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL September 9-11 Northwest Maritime Center

BUILD YOUR OWN KAHOLO STAND-UP PADDLEBOARD July 23-29 Northwest Maritime Center

CHARTS AND DEAD RECKONING (VIRTUAL) September 20-21 Northwest Maritime Center

SPOON CARVING August 6 Northwest Maritime Center

BUILD YOUR OWN SHEARWATER OR WOOD DUCK SEA KAYAK October 24-30 Northwest Maritime Center

PROJECT-BASED LEARNING AT MARITIME HIGH SCHOOL Maritime High School connects students with hands-on, project-based learning to create access to local maritime careers and open doors to college. Anchored in the Duwamish Valley, the school delivers powerful youth development experiences and exceptional education to students who are furthest from educational justice, resources, and opportunities. » Learn more and apply at maritime.highlineschools.org/

PRIVATE GROUP SAILING LESSONS Bring five of your friends to Port Townsend for a 2.5 hour sail aboard the beautiful La Vie en Rose in Port Townsend Bay. Experience the majesty of this Paul Gartside-designed, Jeperson-built yacht in person. » Learn more at: www.nwmaritime.org/

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TIDES & CURRENTS IN THE SALISH SEA (VIRTUAL) September 27-28 Northwest Maritime Center

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ANCHOR OUT O

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Friends of the San Juans

navigational

purposes

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12 All the Power You Need

LETTERS

Toliva Shoal Race Correction Hi Andy,

Thank you for publishing a write-up of this year's Toliva Shoal Race. I do have a correction, however. The Olympia Yacht Club does not put on the Toliva Shoal Race; they are one of two clubs who sponsor the race, the other being the South Sound Sailing Society. The race is put on by the Toliva Shoal Race Committee (TSRC), made up of members of both clubs. The strength of both clubs is needed to put on the event. However, being a sailing event, the lead is taken by the sailing club with experience running races, South Sound Sailing. Steve Worcester Treasurer, TSRC

Model Shown Beta 38

Response to A Sailor’s Sourdough

Engineered to be Serviced Easily!

Hi Joe, Laura Upham describes maintaining her sourdough starter with a daily discard and feeding method. As a baker, at home or on the sea, I prefer the following method, which produces no discard and only requires a feeding the night before you want to bake. Once you have a small amount of healthy starter, use it to make bread, then put the jar with the remaining scrapings (about a tablespoon or so of starter) back in the fridge. The night before you want to bake again, add equal parts of rye flour and water to the “scrapings” jar. Leave the jar on the counter overnight. In the morning, the starter will be ready to use. Use what you need, and again, return the jar with the small amount of scrapings to the fridge. I’ve left my scrapings jar unfed for weeks, and easily revived it with 55 grams each of water and rye flour with no discard. This video, Bake with Jack episode #71, explains the process. www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uj6YpNCUYYQ

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Sheila Gaquin California Offshore Race Week Success! Heads up Joe and Andy,

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I’m sure you are on this. The Pell Mell story about the California Offshore Race Week, I’m quite sure, will not be overlooked for any future issue of 48° North. I was fortunate to follow along with the boat trailer from San Francisco to Monterey, Santa Barbara, and San Diego. What a blast! What a team!

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low tides » News & Events LAKE UNION BOATERS REMINDED TO #MINDTHEZONE THIS SUMMER east or west of the buoy line. Yet many new (and even longtime) sailors, powerboaters, and paddlers are unaware of the purpose of the buoys. Please #MindTheZone! » For more information visit https://rbaw.org/mindthezone.

The Recreational Boating Association of Washington (RBAW), a volunteer organization run by boaters for boaters, is leading an effort to raise awareness of the seaplane landing advisory zone among all groups of boaters. The campaign is dubbed #MindTheZone and the RBAW would appreciate recreational boaters' help spreading the word. If you’ve been out on Lake Union on a beautiful summer’s day, you know what a recreational gem it is, but also just how busy it can be. In fact, usage on the lake has increased dramatically since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. In an effort to manage seaplane, boat, and other watercraft traffic during the busy summer months, the City of Seattle annually installs five seaplane advisory buoys that are in place from Memorial Day through Labor Day. The buoys run in a northsouth line on the lake and are visible day and night. When the buoys’ yellow lights are flashing, a seaplane is about to take off or land, and all lake users are asked to move 200 feet

BALLARD ELKS MONDAY NIGHT PADDLE RACES Paddlers of all stripes are encouraged to come out every Monday evening from May to September for paddling races at the Ballard Elks Club. Camaraderie, fun, and safety are the goals, and the race is open to all paddling craft such as SUP, surf ski, kayak, outrigger canoe, and rowers. Race course routes vary weekly and are 5K (3.1 miles). The events are open to non-Elks members and are welcoming to first-time racers. You can tour the race at your own speed or those not interested in formal racing can attend the weekly social paddle alongside the race course. After the race, join fellow participants at the Secret Beach Bar for post-race hydration, food, and an awesome view of Puget Sound and sunset. Donation: $5 Elks members. $10 non-members. Register online or on-site. Registration opens at 6:00 p.m., skipper/ safety meeting is at 6:30 p.m., and races start at 7:00 p.m. All paddlers must wear a PFD and leash. Prone paddlers and rowers must be attached to their craft. All proceeds donated to the Ballard Elks Vocational Scholarship Funds. Parking is available in the Ballard Elks southern (left) parking lot rows,

overflow parking should go to the east section of the lot. Please do not unload in the fire parking zone by the beach entrance. » Follow along on the Facebook Event page for the Ballard Elks Paddle Race Series or contact bepc827@gmail.com for up to date info.

MARINE WIRING WORKSHOP IN PORT HADLOCK ON JULY 9, 2022 their vessels’ electrical systems. Topics include safe wiring practices, selecting wire sizes, circuit breaker and fuse ratings, cable routing and labeling, shore power circuits, corrosion protection, instrument systems, troubleshooting, and more. Pre-registration is required. » For more information visit wsg.washington.edu or contact Sarah Fisken 206-543-1225 or sfisken@uw.edu.

Washington Sea Grant, the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding, and Washington State University Jefferson County Extension are sponsoring a marine wiring workshop in Port Hadlock on July 9, 2022. Held at the NW School of Wooden Boatbuilding Marine Systems Building at 42 Water St., Port Hadlock, WA, the workshop is $60 per person and all participants are asked to bring a multimeter. This workshop is for boat owners who want to upgrade 48º NORTH

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low tides » News & Events STYC’S WOMEN AT THE HELM: GOING THE DISTANCE RETURNS ON JULY 23, 2022

FRIENDS OF ODYSSEY TAKES THE HELM TO SAVE TACOMA’S TALL SHIP

Sailing organizations across the nation have been wrestling with the question of how to encourage more women to sail. Facing this important issue head on, Sloop Tavern Yacht Club (STYC) created two Women at the Helm (WATH) races in 2020, in the midst of COVID-19. This year marks the third season of WATH, in which a person who identifies as female MUST be the primary helmsperson. WATH: Going the Distance is scheduled for July 23 and the WATH Regatta is scheduled for September 24. STYC members can enter at no cost; other boats will be charged $35 per race. Class breaks will be posted on the STYC website (www. styc.org) by 6:00 p.m. the Friday before the race. The 1st class starts at 10:00 a.m. The first warning is at 09:55 a.m. WATH will have a variety of participants and all skill levels are welcome. Some boats will have a woman as the regular driver, while other boats might have a newer female driver and the owner or skipper in a supportive role. » For more information visit www.styc.org.

Friends of Odyssey is a nonprofit that formed last winter to save the Sea Scout Ship 190 program’s 1938 wooden Sparkman & Stephens sailboat, Odyssey. Known as "Tacoma’s tall ship." she was a familiar sight on the waterfront since arriving in the late 1970s until COVID-19 shut the co-ed youth sailing program down and her 105-foot mainmast was retired last year. Careful inspections uncovered compromised sections of wood, increasing the problem twofold since the organization depended on a busy charter season for funding, and the 90-foot vessel needs a mainmast to sail. Built in New York’s Nevins Shipyard for a Vanderbilt descendant, the yawl was requisitioned by the U.S. Navy during WWII and spent the next four decades doing underwater sonar, radar, surveying, dolphin training, entertaining, and even racing on their behalf. Eventually in disrepair, she ended up with Tacoma’s SSS 190, a segment of Boys Scouts of America Pacific Harbors Council which provides youth leadership lessons while sailing all over Puget Sound. Friends is now raising funds for a new mainmast and to keep the unique youth program afloat with tax-deductible donations. » For more information visit www.friendsofodyssey.org.

low tides » In The Biz... GIG HARBOR BOAT WORKS BUYS SISTER-SHIP DUCKWORKS BOAT BUILDERS SUPPLY Boaters benefit when like-minded companies combine forces, and the small boat equivalent of that has happened in the Pacific Northwest. At the beginning of 2022, Gig Harbor Boat Works acquired Duckworks Boat Builders Supply as a sister company. Gig Harbor Boat Works builds fiberglass rowing and sailing boats inspired by designs from the age of working sail. It was founded by Dave Robertson in the garage behind his house in the late 1970s, incorporated in 1987, and since then has grown into one of the premier small-boat builders in North America. It is now managed by Dave’s youngest daughter, Katie Malik, and his son-in-law, Falk Bock (married to oldest daughter Jessica). Headquartered in Port Townsend, Duckworks Boat Builders Supply is an online store that caters to at-home boat builders. Essentially, the companies are two sides of the same small-craft coin. “Gig Harbor Boat Works has a reputation for high quality boats, excellent customer service, and an enthusiasm for small-craft boat design that has gotten us where we are today. Duckworks has a very similar story, so there’s a very natural fit between the two companies,” Katie says. “As a custom boat builder, Gig Harbor Boat Works has always been very much a one-boat-at-a-time company so we never had need for an online store. But we’re now seeing such a high level of demand for both our boats and other standalone products like our forward facing rowing system that it makes sense for us to scale 48º NORTH

up into e-commerce. We can learn a lot from Duckworks and the way they’ve set up a successful online storefront and warehouse operation. It’s exciting to see how these two businesses will learn from and help each other in coming years as they continue to grow.” Gig Harbor Boat Works intends to keep Duckworks running in the same tradition of family-run roots and customer focus that has made it successful until now, while also enabling the company to continue to grow and flourish as more and more people around the world discover the joy of building their own boats. » For more information visit duckworks.com.

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low tides » Product News » FUJINON TS-X 1440 BINOCULARS Fujifilm has continually used its optical and mechanical design technologies to develop high-performance and high-quality binoculars for day-to-day use. The TS-X 1440 is its latest product, which features an image-stabilizing function and an advanced level of light-gathering power. The Fujifilm unique EBC multicoating is applied to control flare, ghosting, and chromatic aberration while enhancing light transmittance to provide a bright, clear view. Moisture-resistant construction, combined with a stylish, easy-to-hold design, makes the binoculars easy to use and highly reliable. Slip-resistant rubber coats the entire body, so users can enjoy a firm grip with one or two hands. The binoculars’ floating design and water- and fog-proof seals make them perfect for on-the-water use. Price: $1,500 » www.fujifilm.com

» TEMO 450 ELECTRIC OUTBOARD This innovative and award-winning electric outboard is perfect for those with small, rigid or inflatable dinghies who don’t want a cumbersome gas or electric engine. The size of a rowing oar, the Temo 450 extends from a length of 4-feet 3-inches to 5-feet 6-inches and contains a 290W lithium-ion battery pack and 450W brushless electric motor. Powering a three-bladed 6.7-inch propeller and generating up to 26.4 pounds of static thrust, it can move a tender weighing up to 1,100 pounds (roughly the size of a light inflatable with three people aboard) for up to 80 minutes at a moderate speed. Forward and reverse gears are controlled by a simple ergonomic trigger integrated into the oar’s handle, and the entire unit weighs less than 11 pounds. The battery can be fully charged in about three hours with a 12V or 220V connection. Built in France, the Temo is designed to be operated at an optimal angle of 30 degrees and mounts on a simple oarlock socket on the transom. Available accessories include a carrying case and special locking “handcuffs” for securing the motor when not in use. Price: $1,690 » www.temofrance.com

» ROBSHIP ANCHOR RODE MARKERS Simple yet incredibly functional, anchor rode markers can mean the difference between a properly set anchor and one that has the potential to drag. Robship’s new durable three-strand rope line markers allow you to keep track of exactly how much rode you’re putting out while setting anchor. Easy to install, the markers are available in two types with different ways to secure them: with and without tabs. The version with tabs has a small PVC patch welded in the center of the mark. After putting the mark through the strand, you can fix it by sandwiching it with the patch — so you only have to lace it through one rope strand. The version without tabs doesn’t have the PVC patch and requires lacing it through the rope twice. While this is an extra step, the marker will bite into the rope and pull tight. The green, red, and yellow markers include numbers 30, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240, and 270. Price: $9.99 » www.robship.com

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DID YOU KNOW? by Bryan Henry

Jack Grant, while working for Qantas Airlines in 1965, invented the inflatable aircraft escape slide, an escape slide that doubled as a life raft in case of crash landing in water.

The Pacific Ocean borders five continents: North America and South America, Asia, Australia and Antarctica.

In August 2005, Stonington, Connecticut fisherman Alan Chaplaski snagged a U.S. Navy nuclear submarine while trawling for shrimp.

ACROSS 1

Long lines or cables used to support the mast

Sea dog

Type of compass

Strong thick cords

10 “___ now or never” 11 Lifting device 13 Watch closely 15 Dry land 17 Took care of 18 Atlanta’s state, abbr. 19 Roll up 20 Leases a ship 25 Unit of resistance 26 Short length of rope with an eye 27 Depart 29 Vessel used to maintain

navigational aids

30 Light wind

In 2011, a two-headed bull shark fetus was discovered off the Florida Keys, the first known case of conjoined twins in bull sharks.

Some North Carolina shrimpers have damaged or destroyed shrimp trawls by snagging them on sunken Civil War vessels.

DOWN 1

Horizontal direction of a line of sight between two objects on the surface of the Earth

Shouts

Moving swiftly before a gale

No longer aboard ship

Young pilchard

Highest point

Saved from disaster

12 Technique for moving or turning

a ship with a light anchor

14 Vintage designation

Giant catfish have been known to catch pigeons and other birds. Some tall seamounts, or underwater mountains, can be detected by satellites. Three men who spent five days adrift in the Atlantic in January 1980 had a shark to thank for their rescue. The men had fallen asleep when the shark nudged their raft, awakening them in time to see a passing freighter that they were able to flag down.

16 Rowing team member 17 Drink that can be served hot or

cold

19 Remain on the surface of the

water

21 Sea mist

In 1992, Dwight Collins departed St. John’s, Newfoundland, and 40 days later arrived in Plymouth, England, in a 23-foot pedal-powered boat.

22 Not so common

Humpback whales can have half a ton of barnacles living on them.

23 Put away 24 “Deep ___ sea” 28 State with a rocky coastline,

abbr.

The bristlemouth fish is the most common vertebrate on Earth. Skunk shrimp eat parasites and dead skin off fish and have been observed cleaning divers’ teeth.

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ULLMAN SAILS PNW

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BOAT HAVEN BOATYARD & SHIPYARD: Over 400 of the world’s best marine trades professionals are based at the Boat Haven. Hire the pros or do-it-yourself. Three lifts carry vessels up to 330 tons. Also moorage. Call for details or reservations: 360-385-6211. HISTORIC POINT HUDSON MARINA: Over 50 slips for transient boats. Tie up at the home of the annual Wooden Boat Festival. Also a seaside RV park. As with Boat Haven moorage, you’ll find water, power, showers and laundry. Call for details or reservations: 360-385-2828. An offshore and liveaboard veteran, Akimbo has been well cared for and taken good care of her captain and crew. This Schumacher design is offshore comfortable yet responsive and fast (221nm in 24hrs = our best day). She is ready to keep going. Her second owner is looking for a smaller boat.

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For specs and photos, please call 206-390-2995 or email: yachtsbyjon@gmail.com 48º NORTH

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Three Sheets Northwest

by Deborah Bach

COWICHAN BAY

A CHARMING SEASIDE VILLAGE WITH A THROWBACK VIBE The first hint about the place we would be arriving at was the marina. As we headed toward Cowichan Bay, a village on the east coast of southern Vancouver Island, I’d called to ask about transient moorage at the Cowichan Bay Fisherman’s Wharf Association. A gruff, no-nonsense man answered the phone and said if we got there after the office was closed, we could tie up at the temporary loading zone on the main float and he’d find us a slip in the morning. We arrived after office hours and pulled into the loading zone as directed. There was adequate space, around 70 feet or so, but since we planned to move first thing in the morning, we Marinas at Cowichan Bay have a mix of working boats and recreational vessels.

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didn’t horse the boat forward to make more space on the dock, instead leaving it parked in the middle. It was a bad decision. Around 5:30 a.m. the next morning, we awoke to the deep growl of a diesel engine outside our Passport 40, Rounder. Marty poked his head out the hatch above our bunk to see a mid-sized tugboat squeezed between our dinghy and the end of the dock, stern-to. The captain hadn’t tied up but was holding the boat in place with its engines while a deckhand ran ashore and unloaded some gear. After about 10 minutes, the tugboat left and we went back to bed. As soon as the marina office opened, Marty went up to ask about our slip and got an earful from the harbormaster’s buddy, who was hanging out in the office and wanted to know why we felt the need to take up the entire dock instead of leaving room for working boats. He was right, of course. Chastened, Marty slunk back to our boat and we moved to a slip on another dock, nestled between tugboats and fishing vessels. There were no other boaters in sight, and the marina looked to have at least as many working boats as recreational ones. We had, however clumsily, discovered the authentic appeal of Cowichan Bay, a place that feels like a throwback to the working waterfront towns once common around the Salish Sea. It made us think of some of the towns we stopped in during a cruise to Southeast Alaska three years earlier — places like Wrangell and Craig, where there were few tourists and most of the boats surrounding our sailboat were used for making a living. We’d heard about Cowichan Bay but had somehow never

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The village's commercial strip is clustered along a few blocks on the waterfront, where handpainted wooden signs provide directions for visitors.

visited, passing it by on previous trips to Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. We decided to stop on this trip, our first to Canada since before the pandemic, after being on the hook for most of a week. A frontal system was approaching, with heavy winds predicted, and it seemed like a good time to tuck in for a few nights, reprovision and explore. After tying up at the marina, we walked down the long pier leading to the village’s waterfront strip, a mix of small shops and restaurants, docks and floating homes that are a more funky, bohemian version of the postcard-perfect Sleepless in Seattle type. Unpretentious and ungentrified, the village has a pleasantly laidback feel reflected in its 2009 designation as North America’s first Cittaslow community, a global movement launched in Italy and inspired by the slow food movement. A cluster of hand-painted wooden signs on the main street pointed visitors toward a boardwalk, pottery studio and an oldschool barber shop, outside of which sat a communal piano painted with orcas. Nearby, a tiny park overlooking the water was bordered with weathered rowboats repurposed as planters. We spent a few hours walking around the village, strolling the docks and looking at the interesting range of boats. It wasn’t just one fiberglass yacht after another, but a real mix of old and new, working boats and pleasure craft.

The Cowichan Bay Maritime Centre, which sadly wasn’t open when we stopped by, has a museum with boat models and various types of small boats on display. The center is run by the nonprofit Cowichan Wooden Boat Society, which also operates a traditional marine ways — a pair of tracks that run from below the water’s edge onto the shore — for hauling out and cleaning boats. A little west of the maritime center is the Cowichan Bay Estuary and waterfront Hecate Park, which has picnic tables and a kayak launch. Later that afternoon, we headed to the popular True Grain bakery to meet up with a cousin of mine who lives in nearby Duncan. COVID-19 had kept our family from visiting for more than a year, and I was excited to see my cousin and wife and meet their 14-month-old son for the first time. The bakery, which uses only organic flour and mills its own grains, churns out an impressive selection of breads and goodies and is worth a visit. We sat out on the deck, catching up over delicious pastries and cookies and delighting in the little guy’s antics. We were looking forward to a meal out that night, and the village’s half-dozen or so restaurants range from Thai to fine dining. We settled on the Cowichan Bay Pub, a low-key place with a deck offering sweeping views of the bay and nearby Mount Tzouhalem. The village’s combined liquor store and market has a decent selection of basic grocery items, but we were in need of produce and other supplies, so we hiked over to Great Greens Farm Market, a PCC-type store about 1.5 miles away, following a pleasant route that wound uphill through a residential area, then along a quiet road flanked by farmland. After three nights in Cowichan Bay, it was time to move on, though I could have lingered another day or two. Marty and I joke that any town on the water, even one you wouldn’t necessarily bother driving to for a weekend, becomes a charming seaside village when arriving by boat. But Cowichan Bay — with its laidback vibe and colorful, working waterfront — really is that place. It’s a true Pacific Northwest gem.

Enjoying beers on the deck at the Cowichan Bay Pub, which has views of the bay and Mount Tzouhalem.

Deborah Bach is the co-founder of Three Sheets Northwest and a former newspaper reporter. She and her husband can often be found sailing with their boat kitty on their Passport 40, Rounder. 48º NORTH

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Beacon Background

THE POINT WILSON LIGHTHOUSE The Point Wilson Lighthouse in 1960. Photo courtesy of Washington State Archives. It is hard to imagine a more scenic location for a lighthouse than Point Wilson. Marking the convergence of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Admiralty Inlet, it offers sweeping views of both waterways — and on a clear day the snowy peak of Mount Baker is visible in the distance. This beacon, constructed more than a century ago, remains one of the tallest and most architecturally striking in the Salish Sea. Its location on a sandy spit at the entrance of Puget Sound also makes the Point Wilson Lighthouse one of the most strategically significant.

the steady flow of ship traffic. As Port Townsend grew into a boom town and a bustling center of international maritime commerce, it became clear that improved navigational aids were essential. The first light station at Point Wilson became operational in 1879. The complex of buildings, which sat on the far end of the spit, included a wood-framed building that served as a dwelling for the two keepers and a light tower projecting from the roof. A fog signal structure housed a steam whistle that used water stored in a cistern. An incident one foggy evening in September 1896 demonstrated the need for a more reliable fog signal, which was not functioning at that time due to lack of water. That night, the vessel Umatilla struck rocks west of the lighthouse and began to sink. The captain opted to run the ship aground on the beach near the beacon, where the passengers were safely offloaded. Damage to the vessel and cargo was substantial, however, prompting calls to upgrade the light station. “The commerce of the Sound is growing,” the Seattle Daily Times explained, “and if there is any appliance known to navigation that can guide vessels in a fog past Point Wilson it should be provided.” (September 30, 1896) The supply of freshwater at the Point Wilson Lighthouse improved with the construction of Fort Worden adjacent to the beacon. Built at the turn of the 20th century, this military

The original lighthouse became operational in 1879. Photo courtesy of Library of Congress.

A STRATEGIC LOCATION Captain Vancouver of the Royal Navy named the point in 1792 to honor his colleague George Wilson. For centuries, Native peoples had navigated their shallow-draft canoes along the low-lying spit, which the Chimacum called Kam-kam-ho and the S’Klallam called Kam-Kum. But the larger, deep-draft vessels of the Europeans proved challenging to sail through these unfamiliar waters, with shoals, riptides, fog, and wind increasing the danger to mariners. By the late 19th century, hundreds of vessels had been wrecked or forced aground. The church bell that rang during foggy days in nearby Port Townsend was not adequate to guide 48º NORTH

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installation was part of a trio that included Fort Casey at Admiralty Head (see 48° North, January 2022) and Fort Flagler south of Port Townsend. Known as the “Triangle of Fire,” the three forts were strategically placed to repel enemy vessels entering Admiralty Inlet — and all were paired with lighthouses.

events. During World War I, for instance, the U.S. secretary of commerce urged lighthouse staff to cultivate gardens in anticipation of food shortages. Head Keeper William Thomas enthusiastically complied, despite the difficulties of growing vegetables in the sandy soil at Point Wilson. Summarizing his efforts to the lighthouse inspector, Thomas explained that after four attempts, he was able to produce some beans, which he salted and canned. “The yield was good,” he reported, “but of course of small quantity, as space was limited.” His onions and lettuce “were splendid,” and he was able to grow peas, potatoes, carrots, and squash as well. Thomas, who served at Point Wilson for 12 years, continued to struggle with the “bare sandy spit” there during the 1920s. To combat the erosion caused by fierce winds, he planted Kentucky bluegrass around the beacon. But the seeds did not sprout. Instead, Thomas discovered that they had blown and taken root 10 miles north, on the grounds of the Smith Island Lighthouse, which had turned a radiant, if mysterious, green. “It’s rather peculiar,” confessed the Smith Island lightkeeper during Thomas’ visit. “We never did plant any seed here.” Thomas quickly concluded that it was his bluegrass. “I planted it this spring over at Point Wilson,” he informed his colleague. “And now you’ve got it.” (Seattle Daily Times, March 14, 1926) Thomas further distinguished himself when he became part of a rescue effort involving the collision of the passenger liner S.S. Governor and the S.S. West Hartland in 1921. The Governor, which was traveling inbound to Seattle, failed to yield to the West Hartland as that ship departed Port Townsend. Thomas, hearing the crash and ship’s whistles, notified the authorities in Port Townsend, allowing for a quick response. Within half an hour, the Governor sank off Point Wilson. Although eight people lost their lives, most passengers were saved, and the tragedy could have been worse. Thomas’ long service at Point Wilson may have led the Seattle Daily Times to describe the head keeper “as widely known among mariners as any other man on the Pacific Coast” (March 14, 1926).

THE NEW LIGHT In 1914, the United States Lighthouse Service replaced

The Point Wilson Lighthouse, built in 1914, is located on a spit overlooking Admiralty Inlet and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Photo by Lisa Mighetto.

the aging wooden tower at Point Wilson with a new beacon constructed of concrete and masonry, also located on the spit. With a height of 46 feet, the new lighthouse was the tallest on Puget Sound. It included the fourth-order Fresnel lens from the old tower, which was illuminated with a new 120-watt electric bulb instead of an oil-burning lamp. A new chime diaphone foghorn activated by compressed air replaced the old steampowered fog whistle. The tower was octagonal in shape to withstand high winds. Designed by Carl W. Leick, a German immigrant and prolific lighthouse engineer, the Point Wilson station combined the latest technology and architectural sophistication. Leick worked throughout Washington and Oregon, and his designs included the beacons at Mukilteo (see 48° North, September 2021) and Alki Point (see 48° North, May 2022). The Point Wilson Light was one of Leick’s last designs, and one of his most architecturally refined. According to one source, “Its clean lines, graceful proportions, and steeply pitched roofs all draw the eye upward to the top of the octagonal tower and its elegant Fresnel lens.”

THE POINT WILSON LIGHTHOUSE TODAY The beacon remains an icon in the Port Townsend area, easily accessed from Point Hudson Marina (watch for tide rips, especially during an ebb). Its fourth-order Fresnel lens continues to shine, flashing alternate red and white every five seconds. To learn about tours and renting the head keeper’s restored house, visit www.pointwilsonlighthouse.org This Point Wilson website offers enthusiastic encouragement to visitors as well as useful information, claiming that “no other location is as dramatic and beautiful.” For a sense of place, see the 1982 film “An Officer and a Gentleman.” Although it may seem cheesy and dated by today’s standards, the movie captures the power of the natural environment in this spot where the Strait of Juan de Fuca meets Admiralty Inlet, with Fort Worden and the Point Wilson Lighthouse as compelling backdrops.

A NOTEWORTHY KEEPER While life at the Point Wilson Light Station was characterized by daily maintenance chores and constant vigilance, the keepers were also affected by major historical forces and significant 48º NORTH

Lisa Mighetto is a historian and sailor living in Seattle.

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My Boat

The author (R) test sailing Moonshine in SF Bay.

1980 Custom Dogpatch 26 Moonshine

hen the Dogpatch 26 Moonshine came to Seattle in 2021, it raised more than a few eyebrows from local sailors. With its retro-cool look, distinctive hard chines and plywood construction, it was easy to see why. Now, owner Marc-Andrea Klimaschewski has big plans for this San Francisco-born ultra light displacement boat (ULDB), and we’re excited to have him share more in this month’s My Boat column.

Moonshine charging upwind.

Tell us about your boat’s name. Moonshine is the original name of the boat. I generally don’t believe in renaming boats and this boat has such a pedigree that I wouldn’t dare think about it. When Joe Grieser and Alex Simanis towed the boat up from Richmond, California last year and posted a photo on Facebook, someone commented, “Don’t you dare change the name!” — so I won’t.

Have you owned other boats before this one? Moonshine is my second boat. The first boat I bought is the Catalina 38 Image. My crew and I did a lot of work on Image and I still think I may do a Hawaii race on her. In 2019 we raced the Van Isle 360 and according to the race organizers, we were the first boat in the history of the race that managed to successfully sail through Dodd Narrows during the last leg of the race from Victoria to Nanaimo. Great memories.

Tell us the story of how you found your boat and what makes it special to you. I’ve been wanting to race to Hawaii on my own boat since 2015, when I took an offshore training class on the Santa Cruz 50 Hula Girl through J/World Performance Sailing School. In November 2020, after almost a year of pandemic craziness, I went on a vacation to Oahu and did a pilgrimage to Diamond Head and Kaneohe and decided it was time to make a commitment, so I signed up Image for Pacific Cup 2022, not knowing how to recruit crew and get the needed prep work done. Following my Hawaii trip, I spent 10 weeks in Germany with my family and thought a lot about where I wanted to go in terms of sailing. I considered putting money aside and saving for one of the new offshore 30-footers like a J/99, Dehler 30 or Sun Fast 3300. When I was getting ready to come back to Seattle, a Moore 24 came up for sale and it occurred to me that a doublehanded campaign on a ULDB is the quickest way to a competitive Hawaii race. I talked to Alex Simanis, looking for a lead on a Moore 24, 48º NORTH

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Sailing downwind under spinnaker in Round the County. Photo by Dennis Pearce.

What’s the history of your boat? Where’s it been? Who built or designed it? Tell us its story.

ideally an SC (“sport cruiser” with a slightly higher cabintop and a couple of small windows). He got me in touch with an owner that was looking to sell but also told me that a Moore is a little small for me because I’m 6 feet, 6 inches tall. He then mentioned that there is this “super strong, super fast wooden one-off” in Richmond that may come on the market soon. That boat was, of course, Moonshine. Initially I was skeptical, since a Moore 24 has the added benefit of being a one-design class, but after looking at one I realized that they are a little small for me to go to Hawaii. It took me a while to convince Moonshine’s previous owner, Dylan, to meet up. Moonshine had just gone through a bit of a refit in winter 2020 and was still in pieces. We eventually got together in San Francisco in late March and went for a sail. Seattle weather was pretty bad, but San Francisco Bay was full-on sunshine and the breeze built from almost nothing to 15 knots on our sail from Richmond out of the Golden Gate via Raccoon Passage. The boat was pretty much sold as soon as we turned downwind and put the kite up. I wrote a check the very next day and came back two weeks later to get it ready for the trip to Seattle.

Moonshine was built sometime around 1980 by Dave Leech in Hank Jotz’s sail loft in the Dogpatch neighborhood of San Francisco. She was designed to be similar to Bear Grotto, a boat that Hank Jotz built based on plans drawn by dinghy designer Jake van Heeckeren, but she is a foot longer and has a slightly taller rig. I don’t know much about the sailing Dave Leech did on Moonshine, though I found a carbon copy of a PHRF-NW certificate from the 1980s in Moonshine’s documents. In the early 1990s, Bill and Melinda Erkelens bought Moonshine and won the 1994 Pacific Cup overall. Bill Erkelens is now the COO of the 11th Hour Racing team. Eric Steinberg, a marine electronics pro from the San Francisco Bay area, was also a co-owner. After the Erkelens, RB Ward sailed two Pac Cups on Moonshine in 2002 and 2004. She lost her rig during the 2002 Pacific Cup, but RB and his sailing partner managed to cut down the mast, put it back up and finished the race in 14 days and 9 hours. The boat was then sold to Dylan Benjamin, who raced the 2008, 2010 and 2012 Pac Cups and won the division in 2010 and 2012, as well as the Latitude 38 performance trophy in 2012. Since then, she has been doing mostly local shorthanded races around San Francisco Bay until I bought her in April 2021.

The boat was pretty much sold as soon as we turned downwind and put the kite up. I wrote the check the very next day... 48º NORTH

What do you like best about your boat? First of all, Moonshine sails really well and the design works great in the Pacific Northwest. She is light and tender at less than 2,600 pounds displacement and 800 pounds of ballast. (For reference, a Moore 24 carries 1,050 pounds of ballast). The light displacement and the low wetted surface area make her easily driven by a small rig — we’re actually using a Melges 24 mast, which makes doublehanding super safe since the sails are pretty small. That being said, we definitely go faster with weight on the rail. When we have too much sail up going upwind, the boat sits on her chines and provides time to reduce sail. Downwind, Moonshine slides through the water and with

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enough breeze, gets on a plane and goes. We’ve had her at 15 knots and been fully under control. The other thing that’s cool about Moonshine is that she is a unique boat with lots of history, as mentioned above. It’s always fun to talk to people who know the boat from previous races, as well as previous owners. It seems like there is a real community of fans and everybody I’ve talked to has had nothing but good things to say about the boat.

What do you know now about your boat that you wish you’d known when you bought it? Would that have changed your mind? Moonshine arrives in Seattle.

Nearly sister-ships, Moonshine (L) and Pell Mell (R) share a finger pier.

Reaching in Round the County. Photo by Dennis Pearce.

Settled in and sailing upwind. Photo by Dennis Pearce.

Prepping Moonshine for the Pac Cup is a bigger project than I anticipated. I was hoping she’d be mostly ready for the race across the pond since she has done it so many times, but over the last year, there have been many projects. The rig needed a little love, and we installed all new electronics and a new electrical system and built a full set of new sails. Nothing out of the ordinary for a 40-year-old boat that has been in hibernation for almost 10 years, but with only 15 months of prep time before Pac Cup, things are a bit hectic.

Downwind, Moonshine slides through the water and with enough breeze, gets on a plane and goes. We’ve had her at 15 knots and been fully under control. The biggest challenge right now is that Moonshine, being a plywood boat, doesn’t enjoy the wet PNW winters. She is currently in the shed at Ballard Sails and we are doing an interior refit to protect the inside of the boat from moisture damage. This was a project that I knew had to be done, but I thought it could wait for another year. In California it most likely could have waited, but up here … not so much. No regrets, though; the boat is so much fun to sail and has such an interesting history that all these projects are worth the time, effort, and money.

What’s your favorite story involving your boat? Anna, one of our crew members for Ballard Cup last year, wanted to enter Moonshine in the Sloop Tavern Yacht Club’s Women at the Helm race. She didn’t have a lot of experience driving boats, so in order to prepare, she helmed a couple Ballard Cup races. In one of the races, Moonshine and Tonic, a boat raced by world-class sailors, wanted to start at the pin on a port tack, but we had timed the start a bit better and were 48º NORTH

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able to shut the door on them by not leaving any room between us and the pin at the start. Tonic had to bail out and ended up having to duck most of the starboard tackers. Of course there were words, but Anna, who was unfazed, drove like a pro. Anna and her crew did really well at the Women at the Helm race, too.

Moonshine taking it easy in Ballard Cup off of Shilshole Bay Marina.

Describe the most challenging situation you’ve experienced on your boat and how it performed. The Seattle Yacht Club’s Blake Island Race last year was a bit windy and the upwind leg was a slog due to some not-so-great sail choices (we use hanked-on jibs, so sail changes are quite expensive). When we finally rounded the island and had the wind behind us, it had built to 20 to 25 knots with puffs that had some big shifts in them. After hitting a new speed record somewhere around 15 knots, I managed to round the boat down in a puff and put the spinnaker pole in the water. The good news is that everyone stayed onboard and we only broke our spin pole topping lift, which had weakened after baking in the California sun for so many years. After pulling the kite out of the water, we ended up limping to the leeward mark under jib and finished the race as one of the last boats. I would say the boat performed well, the mast stayed up and we were able to recover the kite with only three people onboard.

Where do you plan to take your boat? Do you have a dream destination? Pacific Cup 2022 is the big adventure ahead for me and Moonshine. I hope I’ll have a chance to sail a bit around the Hawaiian Islands before packing up the boat. After that, I’d love to do some travel regattas and sailing on the Great Lakes and the East Coast — which is much more doable with a trailerable boat.

If you could have any other boat, what would it be and why? It would have to be a boat with some history. I think Santa Cruz 50s are really cool and I love that they are still racing to Hawaii every year. I’d like to own one at some point, but of course that requires the right kind of network, crew, and budget. The other boat that I really like is the ULDB Ragtime. She seems like Moonshine’s big sister with her plywood construction and chined hull, and at 65 feet, she surely has the waterline length to make long-distance races seem a little shorter.

What didn’t we ask you about your boat that you wish we had? You should have asked how I found my sailing partner for Pac Cup! I ran into David and his girlfriend at the Shilshole dry yard when I was looking at a Moore 24. They were working on their van and had already heard that I was looking for a doublehanded Pac Cup boat. David didn’t have a Pac Cup ride back then, and within a matter of minutes I had him signed up for a doublehanded entry.

You can follow Moonshine in the 2022 Pac Cup at pacificcup.org. Want to share the story of your boat in a future column? Contact andy@48north.com. 48º NORTH

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HOMEWARD BOUND

by Ginger and Peter Niemann

PART 2: SINGAPORE TO JAPAN “Sorry to wake you, but we need all hands on deck right now.” Somehow these words penetrated my deep sleep and I rolled off the bunk and struggled toward the companionway. I felt great urgency to get on deck, even though I wasn’t fully awake yet, or even quite sure of who or where I was. “Peter, we have a traffic situation, I need you on deck. A light just came on!” I recognized the voice — Ginger — my partner and the only other person aboard our ketch, Irene. I understood the sense of urgency, as she never calls for help frivolously. By the time I stumbled into the cockpit, peered to windward and was met with a lukewarm splash of seawater, I was fully oriented to time and place. Time, zero dark thirty … and place? We were in the South China Sea, making our way up the west coast of the Philippine island of Luzon, the winking white lights of fishing canoes surrounding us. Ginger pointed to port, where a banca boat, a large outrigger canoe, was clearly on a converging course. Long poles set port and starboard streamed fishing lines. This was not the first time we had met a banca running dark, only to turn on a light at the last minute to avoid a collision. A glance at the helmsman told us that any collision avoidance was up to us. In the glare of a single blinding white light swinging in his rigging, we could see his determined face. Since Irene was close-hauled on a port tack, we would be able to avoid collision easily by bearing off to starboard. But a glance to starboard showed a group of bancas not much farther away from us. Given our turning radius, we were blocked from bearing off. 48º NORTH

Irene’s route from Singapore to Japan. “I think we’ve got to tack,” Ginger said. “I’ll handle the sheets if you steer!” I sprang aft to the tiller, disconnected the windvane steering lines, glanced at Ginger and saw that she was ready to release the yankee sheet, then glanced again at the banca, whose skipper was peering back at me with alarm and determination. There was still enough room to tack and clear his fishing lines.

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The morning after Irene’s refusal to tack, we arrived at a river mouth. There, protected by mangroves and far away from any coast guard station, we surreptitiously anchored for a couple of nights. We caught up on sleep and spent the daylight hours in the water scraping marine growth off Irene’s bottom. A banca or two motored near to sell us fish and we cheerfully waved, hoping no official would find out that we were there. Tropical storm Dujuan, named by the Japan Meteorological Agency, was forecast to become a typhoon and pass directly overhead, and should we be questioned, our honest defense would be that we were seeking shelter from that storm. No official vessel discovered us, thankfully, and we resumed our trek north after the typhoon remnant passed overhead. In our normal cruising routine, we would never let Irene’s bottom get so foul. We would haul out and apply fresh bottom paint as we had in Turkey 12 months prior, but we hadn’t had an opportunity since. During the five months we had been stationary, swinging on a mooring at Changi Sailing Club in

Fishing boats in the Philippines, like this banca, called for a sharp lookout.

I put the helm down, shouted “Helm’s alee,” and … nothing. Irene rounded up a bit and the yankee jib luffed, but she did not tack. We instantly knew that Irene’s dirty bottom had reached a crisis point. “She can’t tack!” I shouted. The banca skipper was angrily waving his arms. My brain struggled, my heart was pounding and I felt a rising panic. What to do? Ever since departing Singapore, Irene’s performance had been deteriorating bit by bit. A few days earlier, we had looked over the taffrail and seen fronds of weed waving in our wake. A huge remora fish lurked in the ecosystem trailing behind us. Our average speed had been dropping daily. No wonder we can’t tack! A small voice from some faraway part of my sleep-deprived brain suggested, “What about the engine?” Yes, that will do it! We fired up, pushed the throttle to the stop, and around we went. The banca skipper shook his fist and shouted something as he swept by us, having never altered course or speed at all. Ginger looked at me and we shook our heads in disbelief. In normal times, we would likely not find ourselves struggling through fishing fleets at night. We were close to a coast with many fine anchorages. But we were sailing during COVID-19 and were forbidden to stop. We were on a long nonstop passage from Singapore, where we had sat on a mooring for months (see 48° North, May 2022) to Japan, where we expected to receive visas and be allowed to cruise and go ashore. Our course took us past Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Brunei, Taiwan, and the Philippines, all places we would have liked to cruise and visit. But Japan was the only country in the region that would let us ashore. Japan’s entry requirements specified that we needed to arrive at our port of entry on an exact date. By the time we encountered that banca off Luzon, we were a bit behind schedule and pushing hard, focused on making that promised date come true. We had been aboard Irene for hundreds of days without relief, and the thought of Japan turning us away because we were too late was a grim one. We were determined to arrive exactly on time. 48º NORTH

Ginger cleaning Irene’s bottom off the Philippines.

Encountering another unique fishing boat along the way.

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Singapore, we had been in a constant battle with marine growth. During that time, both of us dove on the bottom with scrapers almost weekly and still couldn’t keep up. The water was dirty, brackish, murky and hot. We were close to the equator, and monkeys, lizards, and snakes swam by regularly. It was so murky that remora fish would swim between our faces and the hull as we scraped. Major paint manufacturers maintained several barges nearby with test samples immersed in the water. Nearby there were several boatyards capable of hauling Irene, but since we were in quarantine, that option was out of the question. Our stay in Singapore might have been a disaster — a married couple cooped up in a small space in equatorial heat for months. But it turned out not to be. One positive was the fact that we were connected to the world by the internet. Shopping was easy. Ginger ordered food online and Peter would row ashore in the dinghy and pick it up. Netflix helped, we had Zoom meetings, and we got the news of the world. We watched in horror as death tolls rose and as the USA became the world’s country worst hit by the pandemic. We felt very safe in our isolated situation.

thanked them for the warning. It was great to be performing our familiar passagemaking roles and in open waters with a good, strong wind. There were a couple of items of concern for us, though. The pilot charts showed that our trip would likely be upwind all 3,0000 nautical miles to Japan. As a full-keel heavy displacement ketch, Irene’s fastest point of sail is not upwind work — especially with her sails worn and blown out of shape and her antifouling paint expired. And we had that hard and fast deadline to arrive in Japan. We were explicitly warned not to arrive late, or on the wrong day or in the wrong port. But like most sailors, we love a challenge and our race with time was on. Another item of concern was that as we sailed up the Palawan Channel, we would be exposed to two dangers. To starboard, the murderous, crack-addicted pirates of Abu Sayyaf had very recently been active, recruiting, abducting and killing islanders. To port, geopolitical tensions were high in the atolls of the Spratly Islands as China militarized the area. When we arrived at Palawan, we joked that we would tack to port when we got too close to pirates and to starboard when we got too close to the Chinese Navy. We breathed a big sigh of relief when a

Irene sailing into the storm.

A visitor found on deck.

Every week we watched the sailing club races and cheered on our favorites. Kind yacht club members waved and dropped off fresh bread and other delicacies as they passed by. Every two weeks we slipped the mooring and motored to the pontoon where we could refill our water tanks. A good part of the world’s shipping passes down the channel past Changi, and we enjoyed ship watching. After a month or so, regulations relaxed a bit and we were allowed to visit the two other ocean cruising vessels that sat on moorings there, including author Fatty Goodlander and his wife, Carolyn, aboard their ketch, Ganesh. They were allowed to visit us too, and we enjoyed weekly social time. The months passed by quickly enough and when the timing was correct to depart on the next leg homeward (a nonstop passage to Japan) we were relaxed, fully provisioned, and ready to go. The wind was brisk as we sailed north. Our spirits were high and it was good to be moving again. As we entered the strait, a Singapore patrol vessel called on the VHF radio to warn us of a dangerous shoal in the area. The reef was well-charted and not a surprise to us, and Ginger, our communications officer, 48º NORTH

welcome wind shift allowed us to sail quickly up the second half of the channel on one long starboard tack. One more danger had our attention: This part of the world can experience typhoons any time of the year. Sailing up the coast of Luzon, we received warnings that a typhoon was developing nearby and was expected to go directly over our planned route, even though it was the season of lowest typhoon risk. Worse, this typhoon was forecast to deliver gale-force headwinds. This was the storm that provided us an opportunity to clean the bottom — and luckily by the time it came upon us, it had diminished to a mere gloomy, squally day and the headwinds we had dreaded never materialized again. North of the Philippines we encountered fresh Pacific tradewinds and made good time, reeling off the miles on a long starboard tack. Unfortunately, progress was stopped for a while with a short but sharp gale directly on our nose as we entered Japanese coastal waters. We jogged back and forth for a long night in the lee of Taketomi Island to avoid losing ground. We estimated that we might lose as much as 20 miles of hardearned progress if we hove-to.

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The view from our mooring at the yacht club in Singapore.

Greeting the Japanese officials in Naha, Okinawa.

Concerned Japanese Coast Guard officials hailed us on VHF, having received our AIS signal. They were wondering what we were doing and gave us permission to remain in the area until the wind eased. Early the next morning we resumed our race north again. We weren’t sure if we could still make our appointment at the port of Naha, Okinawa in time. It was a nailbiter, as the wind continued to ease, but we made it with no time to spare! Dozens of uniformed officials met us at the wharf and after hours of formalities, we were given permission to go ashore for the first time in almost eight months. After the last form was filled out and the last official left, we hugged each other, giddy with happiness. We stepped ashore and the unmoving ground felt strange yet good under our feet. Our balance was off and we wobbled a bit as we walked, as if we were slightly intoxicated.

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Once another quarantine was complete, we were free to roam on land for the first time since departing Turkey almost nine months earlier. We had documents allowing us to cruise Japanese waters for three months. After that, at the end of May, we planned to depart on the final section of our long trek: a passage to the Aleutian Islands and Dutch Harbor, then from there, a crossing directly across the Gulf of Alaska to Neah Bay and home!

Originally from Seattle, Peter and Ginger Niemann now call Port Townsend home after two circumnavigations. They were awarded the Cruising Club of America’s Blue Water Medal in 2022.

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WILD BURNABY NARROWS EXPLORING THE "GALAPAGOS OF THE NORTH"

by Greg Larsen

hen you think of the Galapagos Islands, what comes to mind is a place teeming with sea life and unique flora and fauna that is hard to get to and relatively untouched by modern humans. That description matches Burnaby Narrows in Haida Gwaii almost perfectly, which is why it is often called The Galapagos of the North. For boaters in the Pacific Northwest, Haida Gwaii often is — and should be — a cruising destination on the top of your mustvisit list. Burnaby Narrows (also called Dolomite Narrows) is the name locals use for this skinny, shallow, rock-infested stretch of water located in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve.

The narrows is a skinny, navigable waterway between Moresby Island to the west and Burnaby Island to the east, reachable only by boat or seaplane. 48º NORTH

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Sitka black-tailed deer contemplating crossing the narrows.

Heather capturing the moment .

the falling tide a cornucopia of sea life in a multitude of vibrant colors, shapes and sizes is unveiled. The water of the narrows is among the most nutrient-rich in the world and supports more sea life than anywhere else on the B.C. coast. When we visited Burnaby Narrows, low tide was at 9 a.m. the day after our arrival. Before going to bed, I set my alarm for 7 a.m. to be sure we didn’t miss it. When the alarm sounded, I rolled out of my bunk, put the coffee on the stove and made a quick breakfast before we headed for the narrows by dinghy. As we approached, the crystal clear water shallowed quickly and we could see numerous rock cod darting away from the dinghy in every direction. The cod found a safe place to hide amongst the dancing kelp leaves that were swaying back and forth to the rhythm of the flowing current, like choreographed dancers with long streamers. At one point, a Sitka deer contemplated crossing the narrows in front of us, but when it spotted our dinghy, it bolted into the forest. We watched other deer around the narrows and they didn’t seem to mind that we shared their habitat and continued to feed along the beaches. Early non-Haida settlers had brought

Depending where you depart from, Haida Gwaii is 30 to 70 nautical miles across the shallow, turbulent waters of Hecate Strait from the northern British Columbia mainland coast. Over 200 islands make up the archipelago. The island’s remote location, with little disturbance from the outside world, has allowed plant and animal life here to thrive. The Haida people harvested clams, mussels, crabs, salmon, cod, and even herring roe in and around the rich waters of Burnaby Narrows. It is a surreal experience to explore this distinctive place firsthand. The narrows is a skinny, navigable waterway between Moresby Island to the west and Burnaby Island to the east, reachable only by boat or seaplane. Some come on their own boats, as my wife, Heather, and I did aboard our C&C 39, Nordic Sun, and others come as part of a tour. The narrows is only about half a nautical mile long and about 150 meters wide and is littered with treacherous rocks. It can be transited by boat, but only at high tide. Most of the worrisome rocks are at the northwest end of the narrows. We chickened out and didn’t go through the narrows when coming down from Windy Bay (a watchman site northwest of the narrows). Instead, we approached from the southeast end and anchored in Bag Harbour to do our exploration. If you want to transit the narrows, it is suggested that you anchor outside the entrance, then explore the waterway for rocks in your dinghy. When surveying the area, take your handheld GPS along so you can plug in a few useful waypoints to help you navigate safely through in a larger, deeperdraft vessel. The water runs swiftly through the narrows most of the time, but twice a day at low slack water of 48º NORTH

Sandhill cranes poking around for a meal.

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Sitka black-tailed deer to the islands as a food source. The deer have since thrived due to the mild climate and the lack of predators. Today, there are thousands roaming the islands of Haida Gwaii. As we motored farther up into the narrows, the water became too shallow to run the outboard and we continued our exploration using oars. Slowly rowing through the narrows, we were awestruck by the numerous sea urchins, starfish, and sea anemones clinging to the drying rocks along the shore. We couldn’t believe the abundance of sea and animal life that live and feed there. Moving onward, we heard a strange and unfamiliar animal noise coming from farther up the narrows. Keeping a sharp lookout, Heather spotted the creatures making the rattling

A rainbow of bat stars.

The mossy trees of Bag Harbour. and honking noises — sandhill cranes. They made a different sound as we approached, and we assumed they were alerting the others in the group to our presence. Sandhill cranes fly great distances every year to nest and raise their young in the unpopulated waterways of Haida Gwaii, and we felt fortunate to see these majestic birds in their natural breeding grounds. At the shallowest part of the narrows there are numerous tide pools. The plants and sea life inhabiting them display an artist’s palette of brilliant colors. The bat stars were an amazing example of the multitude of colors one species can possess — some were red, some were orange, and there were even blue, purple, and spotted ones. There were moon snails with their sand-collar egg masses and other large and small snails crawling in and around the rocks. Mussels and clam shells littered the seafloor. A rock crab spotted our approaching dinghy and did its best to get away from us, scurrying across the shallows towards the water’s edge in a sideways walk. It stopped to hide, motionless, hoping we wouldn’t notice it amongst the rocks and seaweed. The narrows and surrounding area are not completely pristine, though. Just to the northeast on the eastern shore of Burnaby Island there are two single-room cabins from old homesteads, both dilapidated and constructed of logs and cedar shakes. One was still standing in a shell of its former glory, while the other had almost completely fallen down. I had to wonder, who lived in these tiny one-room cabins? And what were they doing in this remote wilderness?

An old cedar shake and log house.

I had to wonder, who lived in these tiny oneroom cabins? And what were they doing in this remote wilderness? 48º NORTH

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That afternoon we continued our exploration around the perimeter of Bag Harbour, looking for other historical and natural wonders along the shoreline. The only relic we could find was an old boiler on the beach, slowly rusting away in the salty environment. The uplands around the harbor were covered with a thick layer of moss that looked like three inches of freshly fallen, fluffy green powdery snow. Even the trees were coated and dripping with moss, which swayed back and forth in the gentle breeze. The cedar trees also showed evidence of the bark being partially stripped off, a common practice among Haida people to get materials for making baskets, hats, and even clothing. After spending a wonderful day exploring Burnaby Narrows and Bag Harbour, we headed back to Nordic Sun for sundowners and a baked rockfish dinner. Soaking up the final remnants of daylight from the comfort of our cockpit, we marveled at the scenery. The pure beauty of this secluded part of Haida Gwaii is the most amazing seascape I have ever had the pleasure to visit. With the sun setting to the west over Yatza Mountain on Moresby Island, our time at Burnaby Narrows came to a picturesque and perfect ending.

Nordic Sun in the sunset.

Greg Larsen is a cruiser and racer with a lifetime of sailing experience. He and his family have been cruising the waters of the Salish Sea from Olympia to Alaska for decades.

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ECHOES OF A HOMESTEADING PAST ON JEDEDIAH ISLAND

by Lauren Upham

very time we drop the hook at Jedediah Island, we dream about leaving the modern world behind to try our hand at homesteading. A small island tucked between Lasqueti and Texada islands in the middle of the Strait of Georgia, Jedediah had previously been used for that exact purpose. The island was purchased by the Foote family of Vancouver back in 1890. During their 30 years on Jedediah, they cleared land for a pasture, established an orchard, and built a house at Home Bay. The 600-acre island changed owners several times throughout the years, and its use varied from homesteading to being used as a summer retreat. Most recently, it was the home of Al and Mary Palmer, who purchased Jedediah in 1949. After 20 years of homesteading the island full time, they sold it to the province of British Columbia and it was established as a Marine Provincial Park in 1995.

Getting Velella’s spinnaker ready en route to Jedediah Island. 48º NORTH

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Taking a stroll through the cleared pasture. There is still lots of evidence of the Palmers’ and other owners’ lives on the island: the cleared pastures are a bit overgrown now, but walking trails cut through them. The orchards have gone a bit wild, yet the trees are still fruiting. Crumbling buildings are no longer being maintained, so caution is needed when exploring them. And even the descendants of the Palmers’ sheep and goat herds can still be found. Our friend Leif was the first to tell us about Jedediah. As soon as he mentioned the feral sheep and goat population, I absolutely had to go check it out. Having grown up in Vermont, where the cows outnumber the people, I have a soft spot for farm animals. I was not disappointed. We have seen sheep and/or goats every time we have visited the island. When anchoring, we often spot goats up on

the cliffs looking down at us and hear goat kids crying for their mothers as they learn to navigate the rocky terrain. When venturing ashore, the trails are filled with their droppings, so be sure to watch where you step. Keep your eyes peeled for small tufts of sheep’s wool that get caught on low branches of trees and shrubs. They tend to keep their distance, so a close encounter is unlikely, but we often catch glimpses of sheep on the edges of the orchard and pastures. We have been to Jedediah at all different times of year and the orchard almost always has something new to surprise us. In the summer, you’ll see small apples and pears on the craggy and wildlooking apple and pear trees that ripen come fall. We noticed a couple of small plum trees near the path up to the house when visiting in August with my in-laws. A

When anchoring, we often spot goats up on the cliffs looking down at us and hear goat kids crying for their mothers as they learn to navigate the rocky terrain.

Sometimes hard to spot, sheep graze on cliffs above the water. 48º NORTH

massive walnut tree east of the apple and pear trees drops buckets of nut-filled fruit in the late fall, as we discovered on a chilly visit in November. (Reminder: picking fruit from the orchard is not permitted.) Trails wind across the island connecting Deep Bay, Home Bay, Codfish Bay, and Long Bay. They are mostly wooded once you leave the area immediately surrounding the house, with some impressive trees towering above you. There are spots tucked amongst the trees that are fenced off with signs posted; research groups are studying the sheep and goats grazing on the island and how that is affecting undergrowth in the forests. The difference of inside versus outside the fence is visibly noticeable and always makes me wonder just how many sheep and goats call Jedediah Island home. If you’re a climber, we suggest packing

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climbing shoes and chalk bag for a trip to Jedediah, as there are rocks just begging to be climbed. The island’s rocky terrain has quite a few hidden gems, some of which can require a bit of adventure climbing (“adventure” in this case is code for covered in moss). During the one visit where we actually remembered to bring our gear, we explored some of the short cliffs along the trail from Deep Bay to Home Bay. It was a slow process navigating the crumbly bits, but fun to explore some bouldering problems that likely few others have climbed before. During the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, when crossing the U.S.-Canada border was not permitted or required 14 days of quarantine, we moved our J/40, Velella, from Point Roberts to Nanaimo. Though the drive from our home in Vancouver and taking the ferry to the boat often resulted in a five-plus hour process, the proximity of Jedediah Island to Nanaimo made it a frequent destination for weekend trips. We brought four friends with us on a visit over the B.C. Day long weekend in August. From Nanaimo, Mother Nature graced us with beautiful sunny skies and perfect wind for a downwind sail to Jedediah. Our friends were all beginners or new to sailing, but were eager to learn and helped us hoist the spinnaker and trim the sails. We made excellent time on the crossing and encountered little other boat traffic on our way. Given the holiday, we were worried Deep Bay would be full, so we anchored first in Boho Bay, just across the channel from Jedediah on Lasqueti Island. The weather was warm enough to go swimming, but the water was cold enough to immediately want to climb back out and lay in the sun. We putzed around in the dinghy exploring the anchorage (the property is all private surrounding the anchorage, so there’s no shore access), then settled in for cocktails and a delicious dinner. The next morning, after zipping over in the dinghy to check how many boats were in Deep Bay, we hauled up anchor and headed that way to claim a spot. For such a small island, there are a surprising number of anchorages to tuck into, depending on your boat’s draft and the weather. Our boat draws 5 feet, 48º NORTH

Remnants of the orchard left by the island's homesteaders.

A dilapidated house is one of the last remaining structures on the island.

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Twisted roots and trees are a common sight in Jedediah’s forests.

5 inches and we can anchor in most of them. Two of our favorites are Deep Bay and Codfish Bay. On the northwest end of Jedediah, tucked behind Paul Island, Deep Bay is the only all-weather anchorage on the island. Given its protection, it’s also the most popular anchorage and can fill up during peak seasons. The cliffs along its shores have chains for sterntying (a must) which are maintained by BC Parks. Cruisers are often packed in like sardines and approximately 12 to 16 boats can squeeze in at one time. Many of the anchorages on Jedediah will require stern-tying, so make sure to have your stern line ready before entering the anchorage. Codfish Bay, on the eastern side of the island just south of Home Bay, is less popular and you will often have it to yourself or only share it with one or two other boats. The bay is open to the southeast and Circle Island offers some

wind/wave protection from that direction, but it could be a bit uncomfortable if it’s really honking. Both anchorages have shore access at the head of the bay that leads directly to the trail network on the island. Long Bay is an option for boats that don’t draw as much, as it gets quite shallow. It is conveniently located close to a popular camping spot on the island but can be noisy. Like Deep Bay and Codfish Bay, it has a trailhead at the head of the bay. Both Otter Cove and neighboring Sunset Cove are open to the northwest and are only recommended in settled weather. Similarly, White Rock Bay is another spot to tuck in during settled weather. Boom Bay is shallow, with parts drying at low tide, and is not recommended for anchoring. We’ve heard of people anchoring in Little Bull Passage on the southwest end of the

The author’s husband and a group of friends enjoy the sun in Velella’s cockpit.

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island between Jedediah and Bull Island, but expect some current. Home Bay is too shallow for most boats and sections of it will dry at low tide, but it’s a great spot to land if you are kayaking or out for a dinghy ride. Another popular camping spot is near the sand beach in Home Bay, across the bay from the house. An excellent alternative to anchoring directly off Jedediah is Boho Bay, just west of Jedediah on Lasqueti Island. The anchorage is tucked between Lasqueti and Boho Islands and is fairly protected, with only a risk of southeast winds funneling in the mouth of the bay. Jedediah Island offers some protection from southeast wind and waves. It’s a short dinghy ride across to land in Deep Bay or Long Bay for access to Jedediah Island. Now that Velella is back in Point Roberts, Jedediah Island is just out of reach for these short weekend jaunts that

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we used to enjoy. But I’m hoping that our next big trip will take us north and allow for a stop there. After all, I need to see how the sheep and goats are faring and discover what other marvels the island has in store.

Lauren Upham and her husband Ches call Vancouver, BC home. They cruise frequently on their J/40 Velella — mostly short jaunts to the San Juan or Gulf islands. 48º NORTH

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Pell Mell powered up after leaving San Francisco Bay.

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RACE WEEK Participating in the California Offshore Race Week (CORW) has been a bucket list item for a while now. Originally, Joe Grieser and I were signed up for the doublehanded Pacific Cup and we’d planned to use the first two events of CORW as our qualifying/training mission. Eventually, though, we both decided that Pac Cup was going to be too much to take on this summer, so I decided to do the full race week instead. California Offshore Race Week consists of three consecutive races that started on May 28 in San Francisco Bay and finished on June 4 in San Diego: the Spinnaker Cup from San Francisco Bay to Monterey, the Coastal Cup from Monterey to Santa Barbara, and the SoCal 300 from Santa Barbara to San Diego. Our intrepid crew for the series included myself, Joe Wilderman, and Elishia Van Luven for the first two legs, then Ben Towery joined us for the longest and final race of the three. SPINNAKER CUP — SF TO MONTEREY The Spinnaker Cup started with a 12- to 15-knot southwest breeze off of the Golden Gate Yacht Club. The forecast was for the west breeze to fill in later in the evening to give us a breezy ride into Monterey. We stayed outside the whole beat in anticipation of this. Just around 8 p.m., we ended up getting a light rainshower, the jib auto-tacked, and Pell Mell quickly was sailing under a light spinnaker in a foggy haze 50 miles from the finish. The outside route proved to work well, as we ended up getting the westerly breeze early and carried it into the bay. As the lights went out, the breeze built, and after a few jibes, we found ourselves around much larger boats. We entered Monterey Bay on a port jibe, and the wind and waves got epically big. As we sailed out of the fog, the stars came out and we were on full plane in 12- to 15-foot seas doing sustained boat speeds of 12 to 17 knots. At one point, we plowed into the back of a massive wave at 17 knots, which filled the cockpit, and the Dan Buoy in the cockpit bag auto-inflated and fully deployed! After this, we realized that we couldn’t safely jibe into the finish. Accordingly, we doused the A2 spinnaker and chicken48º NORTH

jibed, then jib-reached to the finish. The amazing part of this was that we were exactly 12 miles from the finish and we covered the distance in one hour. Pell Mell was ripping with the full main and #1 genoa, and it was an epic reach to the finish off Monterey Pier in the middle of the night! The folks at Monterey Point Yacht Club were wonderful hosts with much-needed warm food and an open bar at 6 a.m. for some much-anticipated Bloody Marys. We were told that we had won this leg first overall — a killer start! COASTAL CUP — MONTEREY TO SANTA BARBARA This piece of the California coast is known to be a gnarly stretch, and the forecast was shaping up to be no picnic. All of the weather models were lined up and showed that this leg would be 25 to 40 knots for the entire stretch. The northerlies off the California coast had been in full effect, making the sea state massive as well. I was pretty nervous about doing this leg and considered pulling the boat and trailering to Santa Barbara for the SoCal 300. After chatting with other crews and looking at the weather again the morning of the race, we decided to pull the trigger and sail south. With our crew and a boat that we had increasing confidence in, I spoke to Elishia and Joe Wilderman and said, “We will push until it is not safe to do so, then this race becomes a delivery.” The beat out of Monterey was in moderate air, and we opted to start with a full main and J4. This was the right call. A few hours after our start, the breeze backed off and we hoisted our A5 spinnaker. Shortly after that, the breeze dropped to about 12 knots and we opted for the full A2. The routing took us fairly close to the coast for a little wind relief, and around sunset we jibed to port to head down the coast. The breeze steadily built to 25-plus knots, and Pell Mell was flying along at 12 to 18 knots. We had a small round-up around sunset as it was getting even more sporty. After a few “snorkel sessions” with the boat fully underwater, plowing into the short wind chop, it was time to strike the spinnaker. Shortly after this we saw over 38 knots of breeze and opted for the main only for the night. With only the main, we maintained boat speeds from 8 to 16

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knots and saw breezes upward of 35 all night. Hats off to Azure for flying their spinnaker most of the night. They went on to win the leg in our class. We found ourselves just off of Point Conception around midmorning. The breeze backed off and the sea state lined up for a killer run down the Santa Barbara Channel. With only a short time of light air, we got a very pleasant run around the point and into the virtual finish 11 miles south of Santa Barbara. We ended second in class and eighth overall. Not bad for throttled-back sailing! SOCAL 300 — SANTA BARBARA TO SAN DIEGO This race was billed to be the lightest air race of the three. The course takes competitors between Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa islands, leaving all of the Channel Islands to port and rounding an ODAS mark due west of San Diego 111 miles out. The first leg was an easy genoa fetch some 25 miles in 12 to 15 knots of wind. Our short boat was waterlined pretty badly by all of the much bigger boats in the race. Once we arrived at Santa Cruz Island, the wind freshened as we turned south a bit. The breeze was up for the first few miles of the sail through this channel, but there was a massive wind hole behind Santa Rosa Island and the fleet was spread out trying to figure out where to get the best lane. We were suckered into sailing too high to the west for a period of time and farther into the wind hole. Once solidly out of the lee of Santa Rosa, we jibed back to starboard and enjoyed the most champagne sailing of our trip — 18 to 20 knots of wind, nice following seas, and great visibility for most of the evening. Pell Mell flew. We held with much faster boats all night and again, we found ourselves in a northwest breeze building into the mid- to upper-20s. With the reliable A2 up, we smoked along all night. Once around the ocean mark, we hoisted the jib top and stayed low of San Diego in anticipation of the breeze going light. The breeze dwindled on the 111-mile leg into San Diego, and we sailed with a light spinnaker low of the layline into the entrance channel off Point Loma. We found ourselves on a great low line, sailing Pell Mell hot in the light air. Once in cell range, the tracker showed that we were first overall. Our light-air Pacific Northwest prowess came through as we glided along in the light air around Point Loma. As we got close, the city lights revealed the Cookson 1200 White Cloud and a well-sailed J111 that were parked near the finish. We snuck around the limiting mark and spinnaker-reached to the finish first in class and first overall! At 3 a.m. we were greeted by my boat and business partner, Joe Grieser, who was unable to join us for personal reasons, and our shore support, Cliff Hunter, in a 10-foot inflatable with cold cocktails to celebrate our win. At the San Diego Yacht Club, we took front and center dockage with all of the big sleds right in front of the club! A major shout-out to Encinal Yacht Club, Monterey Point Yacht Club and San Diego Yacht Club for being absolutely wonderful to us and putting on a stellar regatta.

Driving and trimming downwind in the SoCal 300.

A rare upwind beat during the series.

The victorious crew of Pell Mell at the San Diego Yacht Club.

By Alex Simanis 48º NORTH

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SEVENTY48 BY SUP: TEAM SEASTR’S RACE ODYSSEY

Racers eagerly awaiting the start of SEVENTY48 in Tacoma’s Foss Waterway. SEVENTY48 is a 70-mile race with a 48-hour time limit from Tacoma to Port Townsend with intentionally few rules: no motors, no support, and no wind. Human power only, pedal, paddle, or row. This was my second time completing the race on a stand-up paddleboard and, again, the journey was quite an adventure. The race start on the Foss Waterway was at 7:00 p.m. on Friday, June 10. When I arrived, the weather was restful and a bit muggy, then the drizzle came. Teams were wet, the water was tame, and the community of racers was strong. 48º NORTH

Part of my plan after the start was to get into race pace quickly, and I held a steady stroke to the first waypoint. After checking in near Point Defiance, I readied myself for what I call the “lazy river,” Colvos Passage. I set out alongside a three-man kayak crew, Team Dumas Bay Brethren. They were very charming and asked if I would like to stay with them for a presentation of the audiobook “Boys in the Boat” by Daniel James Brown. I adore this community. As dusk came, vessel lights were still clustered and we had a bit over 60 more miles to go to the finish. I broke away from the

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The author pushes hard toward the finish after passing through the Port Townsend Ship Canal.

group to find my line north, and off my port beam the backs of several whales glistened in the failing light. My solo adventure had officially commenced. This next section was charted territory for me. I beelined it to Blake Island, where I planned to beat the cold before it could play its hand, and had packed a Mustang Survival drysuit. I heaved my SUP onto the dock and set about changing gear. I knew that with a wool base layer and a drysuit I would be perhaps too hot, but I did not want to reach a point of no return with body temperature. I set off past Blakely Rock without any troubles, and the sky was well-lit from Seattle. It was only after Eagle Harbor that the light faded considerably and sleep became an issue. I had gone to my knees (stand-up paddling is a misnomer) and I literally began to nod off. That was a concern, and I wanted to make sure that this was going to be a sustainable paddle that would get me across the finish line within my goal of 24 hours. I stood up, hugged the shoreline and started scouting for a safe beach to take a catnap. It was after 3 a.m. when I landed on the northeast-facing beach of Yeomalt Point to find two Splinter Board teammates sitting and staring out at the water. They too were trying to beat the point of no-return fatigue and were recharging for a moment. I cozied up to a large piece of driftwood and set my timer for 30 minutes. Fifteen minutes later, I heard the 16-person crew of Team USDB calling out strokes and it lit me up. I think we all cheered on the Utah Schools for the Deaf and Blind with our hearts and smiles. And with that, I was back at it. I wanted so badly to take my drysuit off, but I told myself I could at least peel off the top and tie it around my waist at Fay Bainbridge State Park. Once there, I stared out across the water. Port Madison is my nemesis. I think once you have a bad go at a stretch of the course it never really leaves you. Not only is it a sizable crossing (roughly 3 nautical miles) but you haven’t made the big left turn yet so you are still literally and figuratively far from ringing that bell. Dawn unfolded and the water was manageable. I hadn’t looked at the race tracker, and at that point it was awesome to start pinpointing other teams and water friends. I tied the upper half of the drysuit around my waist awkwardly and again 48º NORTH

set off. I was not going to take the time to change out of the thing until Point No Point. You gotta have goals. Apple Cove Point near Kingston is a good mile marker, as you start to turn to port there. I really got into a nice pace singing to the water and feeling synchronization with mind, body, paddle, and board. In the distance, the sweeping shoreline and crisp lighthouse of Point No Point came closer and closer and I could hear “Momma Bird, Momma Bird, this is Baby Bird, come in …” My son and I had agreed to use Channel 68 to make contact, and to see his stoked little windblown face as he ran along the beach cheering me on meant so much at that moment. From there I headed to Foulweather Bluff to consider my track. I had to figure out what my line would be toward the Port Townsend Ship Canal, as Admiralty Inlet, Hood Canal and Oak Bay all react to one another. I stared north at the distant entrance to the cut leading into Port Townsend and decided to go directly towards it. The crossing was a slog, but the sun was out and as I came closer to the canal, Channel 68 lit up again and my number one fan pushed me through. Luckily, I made it in time for a swift ride to the other side. Hugging the western edge of Indian Island, I made another porthand turn and headed as perpendicular as possible to the finish line across the bay with another 2.5 nautical miles to go. SEVENTY48 this year had 95 teams,16 of which were standup paddlers (including a tandem SUP, Team Couples Therapy). I made the voyage in 20 hours and 38 minutes. It was a job well done by all the teams. I landed on the beach in Port Townsend, rang the bell, hugged my loved ones, headed to the campground and crawled into bed clothed and unshowered. The sea was still my blanket. Thank you so much for all the hard work and strong hearts at the Northwest Maritime Center for offering adventure racing here in the Northwest that captures the imagination of so many and reunites us with our environment in a way that prompts us to ask the question, “What if, and why not?” Here’s to our watermen and waterwomen. See you out there in the wild.

By Erica Lichty. Photo above by J. Ruffo J U LY 2 0 2 2

CLASSIFIEDS BOATS FOR SALE

BOATS FOR SALE $

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16 FT. LAPSTRAKE WHITEHALL OAR RIGGED SKIFF & TRAILER The Seagull is a 16 ft. wooden lapstrake skiff rigged for 3 rowers. It can be rowed solo, rigged to sail, etc. Hull was recently redone. Inside needs sanding and varnishing. Includes the trailer, a set of oars, and some finishing odds/ends. See it today in Port Townsend. (Also ask about a donated Lido 14.) $4750 (OBO) Donated to the Peninsula Trails Coalition for the Olympic Discovery Trail. » Contact Linda Hanlon • LHanlon@olympicdiscoverytrail.org • (206) 579-4218 • $4,750

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DEEP KEEL SAGA 43 1998 Perry design with custom interior. Reconfigured as sloop for upwind work. Beautifully balanced sailer with a custom 8 ft. keel, motors easily @ 8 kts. Recent B&G instruments and isolation transformer. Discovery has served her original owners well as a NW cruiser and a wonderful live aboard. Monitor windvane with swing gate available. » Contact Michael Locatell • mlocatell@aol.com • (206) 459-0880 • $224,950

1984 HUNTER CHERUBINI 37' CUTTER Cherubini designed Hunter built 37' blue water cutter. Main sail, stay sail and jib. Sleeps 6 with two private staterooms and 3 double berths. Separate stall shower, propane stove and oven, diesel fired heater, chart table. Ample tankage. Garmin 172C chart plotter, 7' Carib dingy w/ Honda 2.5 hp outboard on transom davits. Strong fun ship to sail. » Contact Doug Laing • dblgoose@hotmail.com • (360) 303-9926 • $36,400

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1985 SOVEREL 48 KETCH Rare opportunity to own 1985 Soverel 48' Staysail Ketch. Combines excellent Interior Accommodations with High Performance Bluewater Sailing. CAVU is fast, well-equipped, and offers unsurpassed storage; the perfect live-aboard cruiser. Contact me for more Photos & Specifications. 50’ slip offered separately with unobstructed view of Mt. Baker. » Contact Mark Fernandez • svcavu48@gmail.com • $146,000

1975 SLOOP CUSTOM SAILBOAT 31FT JOE TRUMBLY $16,500 or OBO MUST SALL. 1975 Sloop Custom Sailboat 31ft Joe Trumbly design built in Tacoma, WA only 2nd owner, have paper work on upgrades, maintenance and original paper work for the boat. Inboard 20hp Diesel motor rebuilt 2005, lots 0f extras. Bottom of boat repainted fall 2021. We have lived aboard the boat since 1994. The boat is located in Oak Harbor Marina, Wa CALL or TEXT » Contact Emily Gull • gullsway@hotmail.com • (805) 827-0771 • $16,500

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1979 ALAN MUMMERY DESIGNED CAPE 39 PROJECT BOAT: Custom 39ft sloop was sailed from NZ & served us well in PNW waters for 30 yrs, but now needs new owner comfortable with topside wood projects and bottom refurbish. Dependable eng. Airex core btw think GRP hulls wood dodger and topsides, heater, teak interior, new running rigging and smart charging. Could be live-aboard. West Yachts Anacortes, WA. Russ@westyachts.com » Contact vicky@seattleu.edu • 360-299-2526 • $20,000

1978 NORTH SEA 34 PILOTHOUSE Comfortable cruiser and NW veteran. Dual helms. Yanmar3GM 30 engine with Autoprop 2- 30 gal aluminum fuel tanks. Pressure hot and cold H20, propane oven, heater. engine heat, Newer 130% Genoa & Harken furling system. Main sail in good condition. Bruce anchor manual windlass. Bottom sider cockpit cushions. Radar & GPS. Moorage available. » Contact Douglas W Davidson • ddavidson@ pumptechnw.com • (425) 864-1955 • $35,000

BOATS FOR SALE

SMALL WOODEN SCHOONER Designed and built in 1948 by Dick Hershey, who worked at the Kettenburg yard in San Diego. 28 feet on deck, 36 feet overall, cypress planking on oak. Marconi mainsail, gaff-rigged foresail, self-bailing cockpit, decks glassed over plywood (originally canvas), iron fasteners, lead ballast keel, portapotty, wood burning stove. Volvo MD-2; VHF with handheld auxiliary unit. » Contact Joseph L Arnett • j.arnett@comcast.net • (360) 584-4768 • $8,000

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EMERALD GREEN 29' MASTHEAD KEELBOAT SLOOP 1970 Cal 29’sailboat, repowered w/Yanmar 2GM20F Diesel engine and folding prop, 4 Headsails, 2 Spinnakers, and Mainsail. Includes an icebox, sink w/ hand pump, alcohol stove, and 6' standing headroom. Sleeps 6: V-berth 2, table converts to double bed, and 2 aft quarterberths. Has dock power plug-in, boat batteries, and electric lights. Call and come see boat in Des Moines, WA. » Contact Phil Chin • beberobertschin@hotmail.com • (206) 824-3956 • $6,500

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BOATS FOR SALE $

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CLUBS

1945

WANTED 2022

The Best Racing in the Northwest • On the Lake or Sound • Active Cruising • Reciprocal Rights Corinthian Yacht Club of Seattle 7755 Seaview Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98117 Phone (206) 789-1919 for information www.cycseattle.org

2017 PRECISION 18 FOOT SAILBOAT One owner, lightly used. Sloop rigged, roller furling 150% jib. Shoal draft keel with centerboard. Torqeedo electric outboard with 3 battery packs. Includes trailer with spare tire and wheel. Less than 20 miles on trailer. Includes fenders, lines,cockpit and interior cushions, porta potty (never used), anchor, 6 life jackets, tiller cover, sail cover, boom vang. All control lines lead to cockpit. » Contact Rob Rutherford • robrutherford39@gmail. com • 509-710-5983 • $22,000

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MARINE EQUIPMENT SCHATTAUER STORM JIB New condition. 76 square feet. 19 foot luff length. No. 6 luff tape. Built for C&C 34. » Contact John • josterhaug@icloud.com • $500

Fractional Membership makes boating affordable & easy! Your boat is ready when you are! www.sailtime.com/anacortes info@seattleyachts.com 360-299-0777

1980 SAN JUAN 34 15 hp Yanmar diesel with new water pump, temp sensor, thermostat, cooling hoses, belts. Stainless rod rigging, rebuilt hydraulic Backstay tensioner. I only have a short mainsail by 4' but have and extra 36' main as well. Storm jib and Genoa are there. It a nice sailing boat but has a few roof leaks and could use some TLC. Call or text for info. Thanks! » Contact Tom Bjorklund • tkbjorklund@comcast.net • 360-815-0479 • $8,000

J/80 WANTED Looking for a J/80 sailboat. » Contact John Mitchell • johnfrankmitchell.75@gmail.com • (360) 373-5541 • $20,000-$35,000.

MOORAGE

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CLUBS

SLOOP TAVERN YACHT CLUB

2442 NW Market St. #94, Seattle, WA 98107

“Established in Ballard since 1976” 90 Annual Dues - Reciprocal Moorages High quality sailing at the lowest cost

For more info call Mike at (206) 265-9459

Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons Spinnaker, Intro and Advance Racing Classes Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear

206-782-5100

www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com 7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

48º NORTH

GULF ISLANDS OCEANFRONT LANDS FOR SALE 5.09 ACRES OCEANFRONT LANDS Gulf Islands – strategically located between Vancouver – Victoria – Seattle on beautiful Mayne Island BC, Canada. With 795 feet of accessible beachfront, this unrivaled waterfront acreage is located on one of the most protected and pristine bays in the Southern Gulf Islands. Build your dream home or private marina! Price in CAD. More info: https://bit.ly/LotA-HortonBay » Contact Eugen Klein • eklein@kleingroup.com • (604) 818-5888 • $2,290,000

LIBERTY BAY MARINA 40’ - 48’ - 60’ open slips. Great location in Poulsbo, WA Restrooms, Showers. For More Information 360-779-7762 or 360-509-0178 47

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6327 Seaview Ave NW Seattle, WA 98107

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YAGER SAILS & CANVAS NW Sail and Canvas Makers

1.5 inch =$60/month Full service rig shop serving Puget Sound Business Classified ad 2016 March issue PROOF

Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons Spinnaker, Intro and Advance Racing Classes Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear

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we design & make custom sails in washington state!

www.evergreenrigging.com

7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

CROSSWORD SOLUTION

American Sailing Association courses Basic Keelboat 101 through Advanced Coastal 206 Based in Beautiful Anacortes, WA www.sailtime.com/anacortes/sailing-school info@seattleyachts.com 360-299-0777

BUSINESS FOR SALE LUXURY SAILING CHARTER BUSINESS FOR SALE IN THE SAN JUANS

Highly successful crewed charter business with established history of full seasons and satisfied clients. Immaculate 5 stateroom sailing yacht with USCG Coastwise Trade endorsement, beautiful website, fabulous reviews. Outstanding turnkey business! 425-443-2322 stephen@ibainc.com

48º NORTH

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1984 HATTERAS 61 COCKPIT MOTORYACHT

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48º NORTH

60’ MARINER ’78............ $350,000 40’ SOTO 40 ’11 ............. $225,000 “ONO” Available after long NZ travel “ZERO GRAVITY” Professionally maintained shutdown! Explore local cruising grounds in race-ready condition. Large cockpit, narrow hull, big asymmetric spinnakers. or head offshore. New Zealand

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2021 2021 Axopar Axopar 37ST 37ST Angler Angler $469,000 BRABUS $469,000 BRABUS trim, trim, fully fully loaded loaded

J U LY 2 0 2 2

quality yachts from swiftsureyachts.com Low maintenance. Millie J 2005 Brewer Cutter 35 Safe. Manageable. Comfortable. Millie $229,000 J’s owners obviously had all these thoughts in mind when they sat down with Ted Brewer to commission the design of this fantastic 35-foot cruising sailboat. The result: a bullet proof blue water cruiser for two. Aluminum was chosen for strength and ease of maintenance. Her mostly unpainted exterior and deck hardware attached to welded plates eliminates many of the headaches of traditional fiberglass or painted metal boats. Her size and systems are optimized for comfortable living while minimizing complexity. The engine room and mechanical space are huge for a boat of this size. Storage is plentiful and well conceived. Millie J has cruised the Pacific Northwest and Mexico, returning by ship to Seattle. She remains ready for adventure. – p e t e m cg on ag l e price reduced

Swan 441 • 1979 • $189,000

Amel 55 • 2018 • $1.2 million

Hinckley Sou’wester 42 • 1984 • $198,000

Koopmans 43 • 2000 • $349,000

New Allures 45.9 • 2022 • €770,000

Swan 46 • 1978 • $175,000

Chuck Paine/Kelly Archer 80 • 2003 • $2.6 millon

Nordic Tug 34 • 2021 • $495,000

Cal 2-46 • 1976 • $175,000

64 Frers

1978

53 Gorbon PH

2008

46 Dream Boat

1928

42 Outremer

2008

55 Tayana

50 Bestway 46 Ker

42 Sabre 425

$275,000

1988

$325,000

1986

$129,000

2006

$249,000

inquire

$175,000

inquire

1995 229,000cad

42 Passport

1980

42 Passport

1981

$150,000

$129,000

for august 2022 delivery

40 Ellis Custom 36 C&C 110

36 Sabre 362

36 Pearson 362

33 Beneteau First 10R 32 Nordic Tug

30 Henderson

27 Ranger Tug

1990

Inquire

1998

$149,000

2007

$89,000

2005 179,000cad

1986 1993

1997

2020

24 BostonWhaler Vantage 2021

inquire

$139,500 $29,000 inquire

$199,000

FIVE LOCATIONS TO SERVE WEST COAST YACHTSMEN Seattle (Main Office) Sidney, BC Bainbridge Island Anacortes San Francisco Bay Area

SwiftsureYachts

www.swiftsureyachts.com 206.378.1110 | info@swiftsureyachts. com 2540 Westlake Ave. N., Ste. A Seattle WA 98109 facebook.com/swiftsureyachts

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J U LY 2 0 2 2

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2022 Excess 11 - Here this summer! Anacortes, WA

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2022 Hanse 458

2023 Tartan 455

Anacortes, WA

IN BUILD

2016 Moody 54DS $979,000

Kenyon Martin 858.775.5937

2009 Tartan 5300 $925,000 Rob Fuller 207.233.8846

IN BUILD

2023 Tartan 395 Seattle, WA

SELL YOUR BOAT! LIST WITH US! Seattle Yachts

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48º NORTH

J U LY 2 0 2 2

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Beneteau Oceanis 34.1

Beneteau Oceanis 38.1

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Beneteau Oceanis 30.1

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Beneteau Beneteau Oceanis Oceanis 34.1 40.1

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Pre-owned Boats

54' Ocean Alexander 540 Pilothouse

46' West Indies Heritage '77

44' Gozzard '01 ........................ $289,900

Beneteau Oceanis 51.1

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What's Happening

Boats are Selling FAST! QUALITY LISTINGS WANTED! ks oc rD Ou

51' Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 49' Hunter '09 ................................................................. SOLD 47' Beneteau 473 '02 ......................................... Sale Pending 46' Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold

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42' Ponderosa 42 Trawler '84 .........$69,000 41' Beneteau 41.1 '18 ................ $274,900 41' Hunter 41 DS '05 ................. $149,900

45' Beneteau Oceanis 45 '17 ......................................... SOLD 41' Beneteau 41.1 '19 .................................................... SOLD 38' Beneteau 38 '14

40' Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 '22 ........................2-Arriving Sold 38' Sabre 38 MK II '90 .................$99,950 35' Niagara 35 '81 ......................$49,900 38’ Beneteau Oceanis 31.1 '22 ........................2-Arriving Sold

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36' Beneteau 36 CC '98 ................................................. SOLD 25' O'Day 35 '86 ................................................. Sale Pending 34' Beneteau Swift Trawler 34 '14 ................................. SOLD 34' Beneteau Oceanis 34.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 33' Hunter 33 '05 ................................................ Sale Pending 30' Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 34' Tollycraft 34 '79 ....................$79,000 35' Beneteau 350 '90 ...................$39,900 31' Beneteau 31 '10 ....................$89,000 19' Chris Craft Racing Runabout '50 ......................... $44,900

48º

2476 Westlake Ave N. #101, Seattle, WA 98109 • (206) 284-9004 Open - 5:00pm • Sunday by appointment N O R T H Monday - Saturday 10:00am 55 J U LY 2 0 2 2

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206.323.2405 619.733.0559 360.770.0180 info@marinesc.com • www.marinesc.com

Just Arrived!

Dealer of the Year ‘21 • ‘20 • ‘19 • ‘16

Just Arrived!

Limited Edition

2023 Jeanneau SO 380 #77291: $338,955 • SAVE $28,070

2023 Jeanneau 349 Limited Ed. #76463: $234,822 • SAVE $24,473

Arrives December

Just Arrived!

2023 Jeanneau SO 490 #77491: $649,873 • SAVE $20,867

2023 Jeanneau SO 410 #76461: $398,813 • SAVE $37,217

Lagoon 42 - Arrives July ‘23

Arrives August

Take Delivery in the PNW, France, or Caribbean – Call for Details! Lagoon Models: 40 • 42 • 46 • 51 • 55 • 65 • 77• 67MY • 78MY Arrives September

Ready Spring 2023

2023 Jeanneau Yacht 51- 6 SOLD! #76709: $798,790 • SAVE $90,374

Ready Spring 2023

2023 Jeanneau Yacht 60 - 1 SOLD! • Inquire Scow Bow Hull & Walk Around Decks!

2023 Jeanneau Yacht 65 • Inquire Hard Top & Walk Around Decks!

Ready Fall 2022

2024 Lagoon 40 • Inquire

Reduced

2023 Jeanneau Sun Fast 3300 • Single/Dbl Hand Race

New Listing

2006 Beneteau 51 • $199,900

New Listing

2019 Jeanneau Sun Fast 3600 • $239,000

Ready Spring 2023

Ready Fall 2023

2023 Lagoon 46 • Inquire

2018 Jeanneau Yacht 58 • $798,500

2023 Jeanneau SO 440 #76462: $508,460 • SAVE $42,410

1989 Catalina 34 MkI • $52,500

See Your Boat on the Back Page of 48° North!

51' 50' 47’ 38' 37'

Alden Sky ‘80 ............................................ $135,000 Formosa 41 Ketch ‘78 .....New Listing ........ $Inquire Jeanneau SO 469 ‘15 ........................ Sale Pending C&C 38 ‘86 ................................................. $39,900 Cherubini 37 ‘84 .............New Listing ......... $36,400

2014 Jeanneau SO 469 • $379,000

New Listing

2010 Beneteau 31 • $89,500

Dan Krier

Tim Jorgeson

Jeff Carson

Greg Farah

Curt Bagley

Jon Knowles