30 O FFSHORE TO SITKA 34 VELELLA’S LEGACY
AUGUST 2022
38 N EVER SAY EASY
J/Sport - J/70 J/80 J/88 J/9 J/99 J/111 J/121 J/Elegant - J/112e J/122e J/45
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48º NORTH
1900 N. Northlake Way, Seattle AUGUST 2022
AUGUST 2022
30
FEATURES An Offshore Romp
Memorable moments on passage from Orcas Island to Sitka.
48º NORTH
34
Velella: A Boat and Her Legacy
A custom-built Wylie 31 lives on in the Pacific Northwest. By Wendy Hinman
38
Never Say Easy
Some of the simplest days on a boat can turn into the hardest. By Mike Miller
20
COLUMNS Close to the Water
Sewing your own marine canvas can be for everyone. By Bruce Bateau
22 24
MY BOAT: 1991 Jeanneau 44, Tlingit
A family’s perfect boat for adventurous Alaska cruising.
Beacon Background
Cattle Point and Lime Kiln: the sentinels of San Juan Island. By Lisa Mighetto
28
Casting Off
Looking for sludge in all the wrong places. By David Casey
42
RACING Race Week Anacortes
Classic Pacific Northwest racing with an epic venue. By Ben Braden
44
Race to Alaska
Team Pure and Wild goes outside for the win. By Andy Cross
ON THE COVER: Iain Christenson's Farr 36 OD, Annapurna, leads the fleet downwind on a beautiful PNW day during Race Week Anacortes. Photo by Jan Anderson.
5
Background photo courtesy of John Baker.
CONTENTS
By Matt Nelson
AUGUST 2022
6
Editor GO SAILING, FORGET THE REST
On a recent weekend morning, I happened to look up from whatever project I was tinkering with in Yahtzee’s cockpit to see two small, white sails scoot past the bow. It was our boys, Magnus and Porter, in sailing class chasing after their coach motoring ahead in a dinghy calling out instructions. While they tacked around the harbor wall, I walked to the corner of the marina to see if I could capture a few pictures of them. Watching as they slalomed between anchored cruising boats of all shapes and sizes, makes and models, and levels of upkeep, it got me thinking about the variety of sailboats that I’ve been fortunate to sail over the years. Whether I’ve been cruising on my own boat, gunkholing on a 20-odd-foot sloop, test sailing a full-keeled cruiser, steering an ocean racer, teaching aboard a roomy catamaran, or ripping around an anchorage in a Laser, I’ve enjoyed them all. I truly couldn’t think of a single one that I didn’t appreciate. I just flat out love to sail, and I love sailboats. Basically, if it has sails and can be steered, count me in. Nothing else matters. In my lifetime of sailing, though, I’ve come to understand that for some sailors, it does matter. If you’ve sailed long enough, you’ve certainly met those in the boating populace who will vehemently argue the merits of boat design and equipment until they are red in the face. Try asking a group of sailors which boat you should buy or are planning on purchasing and wait for the reactions. Sometimes, it can be enlightening. Other times, it can be exhausting. Rather than falling into the trap of being fanatical about one type of boat over another, or a particular style of sailing over another, I’ve always tried to find strengths in them all. The truth is that sailboats, like their owners, are as varied in their characteristics as there are boats to be bought, sold, and sailed. Certainly, no two boats or owners are identical. Indeed, we all have our own aspirations when outfitting and caring for the vessels that become ours and the subsequent voyages that we’ll undertake on them — big or small. In many cases, what is considered the right boat or the proper way to equip it largely depends on what the owner plans to do with it and what their personal tastes are. Will the vessel be mostly day-sailed? Will it sit at a dock and on the hard most of the time? Will it sail inland, coastal, or offshore waters? Will it hit the race course? Or, will it be pressed into service like a multitool to accomplish a bit of everything throughout its lifetime? The overarching reality is that it doesn’t matter what boat you or someone else owns, whether you have one mast or two, a full keel or fin, a saildrive or direct shaft, a cooler or reefer, freezer and ice maker. Oftentimes, the right boat is the one you have right now. And as long as you’re safe, it probably doesn’t matter if it is a boat as simple as the Optimists our boys were dinking around the harbor in, or the decked-out cruiser they passed by with every possible amenity aboard. It’s all good. If it’s an afternoon enjoying a Puget Sound breeze or a multiweek cruise with your family, most of us just need to sail more often and forget the rest. Including me.
Volume XLII, Number 1, AUGUST 2022 (206) 789-7350. info@48north.com www.48north.com
Publisher Northwest Maritime Center Editor Andy Cross andy@48north.com Associate Editor Deborah Bach Designer Rainier Powers rainier@48north.com Advertising Sales Kachele Yelaca kachele@48north.com Classifieds classads48@48north.com Photographer Jan Anderson 48° North is published as a project of the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery. Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628 48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best! We are not responsible for unsolicited materials. Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor.
SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS FOR 2022! $39/Year For The Magazine $75/Year For Premium (perks!) www.48north.com/subscribe for details. Prices vary for international or first class. Proud members:
Fair winds,
48º NORTH
Andy Cross Editor 48° North
6
AUGUST 2022
News from the Northwest Maritime Center >> As most readers know, 48° North has been published by the Northwest Maritime Center (NWMC) since 2018. We are continually amazed by the inspiring and important work of our colleagues and organization, and are excited to dedicate this page to sharing a bit about it with you. This page affirms that 48° North is part of something bigger, and that we think the missionminded efforts of our organization matter to our readers, and are good for this community and publication.
WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL WORKSHOPS: SHARPEN YOUR SEAFARING SKILLS » NIGEL CALDER is best known for his "Boatowner’s Mechanical" and "Electrical Manual and Marine Diesel Engines," both considered definitive works. In addition to hundreds of magazine articles, he has also authored "The Cruising Guide to the Northwest Caribbean," "Cuba: A Cruising Guide," "Nigel Calder’s Cruising Handbook: A Compendium for Coastal and Offshore Sailors" and "How to Read a Nautical Chart." He recently released a memoir, "Shakedown Cruise," which details his family’s first extended cruise from New Orleans to Venezuela, via the West Indies and back.
In addition to all of the Wooden Boat Festival’s presentations and celebrations, pre-festival workshops offer boaters of all types the rare opportunity to dive deeper into specific topics in maritime life with world-renowned experts. This year we’re thrilled to host workshops from Lin Pardey and Nigel Calder. » LIN PARDEY has accrued more than 217,000 sea miles sailing on boats ranging from 24 feet to more than 60. A major portion of these voyages was onboard two enginless wooden cutters she and her husband, Larry, built. Together, Lin and Larry wrote 10 books and created five video programs. Lin authored two additional books. These, along with seminars and articles, “launched 50,000 dreams,” according to the editor of "Cruising World" magazine.
NIGEL WILL HOLD TWO WORKSHOPS: Marine diesel engine maintenance and troubleshooting – From 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Thursday, Sept. 8. Boat electrical systems design, installation and troubleshooting – From 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Friday, Sept. 9.
LIN WILL BE GIVING TWO WORKSHOPS THIS YEAR: Writing, blogging, vlogging and YouTube – Can it add to your cruising life? – From 9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on Thursday, Sept. 8. Transitioning to an offshore state of mind. – From 9:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. on Friday, September 9
» Join us in Port Townsend for the festival and these workshops. Workshops have an additional fee; please register in advance. Learn more and register at www.woodenboat.org.
EVENTS CALENDAR » www.nwmaritime.org/events PORT TOWNSEND BAY TOURS Saturdays, July 2 - Sept. 3, 2022 Northwest Maritime Center OPEN SHOP: AN INTRO TO WOODEN BOAT JOINERY July 1-3 Northwest Maritime Center
BUILD YOUR OWN KAHOLO STAND-UP PADDLEBOARD July 23-29 Northwest Maritime Center SPOON CARVING Aug. 6 Northwest Maritime Center
PRIVATE GROUP SAILING LESSONS Bring five of your friends to Port Townsend for a 2.5-hour sail on the beautiful La Vie en Rose in Port Townsend Bay. Experience the majesty of this Paul Gartside-designed, Jeperson-built yacht in person. » Learn more at: www.nwmaritime.org/
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WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL Sept. 9-11 Northwest Maritime Center
TIDES & CURRENTS IN THE SALISH SEA (VIRTUAL) Sept. 27-28 Northwest Maritime Center
CHARTS AND DEAD RECKONING (VIRTUAL) Sept. 20-21 Northwest Maritime Center
BUILD YOUR OWN SHEARWATER OR WOOD DUCK SEA KAYAK Oct. 24-30 Northwest Maritime Center
PILOTHOUSE SIMULATOR TOURS Our simulator is a destination for commercial pilots to train to safely steer a commercial ship into ports across the West Coast. These interactive tours offer a rare opportunity to get a behind-the-scenes look at a professional mariner training facility and experience it firsthand as you navigate through a person-overboard drill. » Learn more at: www.nwmaritime.org/
8
AUGUST 2022
Last Chance for aCreeping Summer Blast! We Feel Summer In and It’s Time to Get Cruising Again....
Warm Sunny Cruising Days are Ahead Check out our Brand New Eco-Barge
Get to BEGINS” on “WHERE BreakwaterFRIDAY A this Season! (360) 378-2688 • portfridayharbor.org
48º NORTH
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AUGUST 2022
12 All the Power You Need
LETTERS
Praise and Props to Erica Lichty Hi Erica,
Thanks for the reflections on your second paddle in SEVENTY48 from Tacoma to Port Townsend in the July issue of 48° North. You did a beautiful job of capturing the 70-mile ride and each waypoint. You know how to convey those (sorry, can’t say that overused word, magical) unique moments in a personal way — just you, your craft and your journal. Quite a lovely read. A fellow paddler, Bo Huki outrigger
Model Shown Beta 38 Hi Andy,
Engineered to be Serviced Easily!
I’ve been reading the Percy Jackson series, and the whole time I was reading Erica Lichty‘s story of her SEVENTY48 experience I was thinking “OMG, she’s like a real life demigod on a real life quest. She’s a daughter of Poseidon!” and felt inspired to write this: From the whales to the bioluminescence, they recognize the power she holds, her lineage. They come to pay their respects, to share their strength with her as she completes her quest, her quest that they know will change the world. They watch and sing to her as she rests on the shore, breathing life and energy into her cells, into her whole body. Her very presence commands them — for she, Erica, is the daughter of the sea god. I appreciate you sharing her words, she really is an inspiration to me in so many ways, I can’t believe people like her exist — full of strength and soul and heart and grit and love and humor and all the things.
Beta Marine West (Distributor) 400 Harbor Dr, Sausalito, CA 94965 415-332-3507
Pacific Northwest Dealer Network Emerald Marine Anacortes, WA 360-293-4161 www.emeraldmarine.com Oregon Marine Industries Portland, OR 503-702-0123 info@betamarineoregon.com Access Marine Seattle, WA 206-819-2439 info@betamarineengines.com www.betamarineengines.com
Thanks so much! Carly Giles
Sea Marine Port Townsend, WA 360-385-4000 info@betamarinepnw.com www.betamarinepnw.com
Erica Lichty pushes hard toward the finish after passing through the Port Townsend Ship Canal. Photo by J. Ruffo
Deer Harbor Boatworks Deer Harbor, WA 888-792-2382 customersupport@betamarinenw.com www.betamarinenw.com 48º NORTH
12
AUGUST 2022
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JEFFERSON COUNTY
13
AUGUST 2022
low tides » News & Events HARNEY CHANNEL RENAMED CAYOU CHANNEL
The 2-mile channel between the south end of Orcas Island and the north end of Shaw Island formerly known as Harney Channel has received a name change. On Tuesday, July 5 the Washington State Board of Natural Resources approved renaming the waterway Cayou Channel for longtime local resident Henry Cayou. The channel was originally named by the British around 1860 for U.S. General William S. Harney. In 2021, a group of San Juan Islands residents started a petition and submitted a proposal to the state because they did not feel that General Harney deserved the honor. According to the Washington State DNR, “Gen. William Harney, is best known for nearly starting the San Juan Islands ‘Pig War’ between the United States and England in 1859. Harney killed an enslaved Black woman in 1834 and commanded the killing of indigenous women and children during the 1855 Battle of Ash Hollow, among other ignominious acts (dnr.wa.gov).” The approved name will be added to the Washington Administrative Code, and the Washington State Board of Natural Resources will pass the proposal along to the United States Board on Geographic Names for federal review. Henry Cayou was born on Orcas Island in 1869 and was interred on Orcas upon his passing in 1959. His father was a trapper who was an early settler of Orcas Island and his mother was from
the longstanding indigenous villages on the shorelines of what is now known as Mitchell and Garrison bays on San Juan Island, and she had Samish and Lummi relations. Cayou was a highly successful commercial fisherman (trapping and seining), and his fish processing plant at Deer Harbor was so successful that it kept local people employed even through the depression in the 1930s. He was also an early local maritime leader, owning a steam tug and a successful boatyard
SAIL SAND POINT FULL MOON SAIL: AUGUST 11, 2022
SEATTLE SINGLES YACHT CLUB RACE TO FIGHT HUNGER: SEPTEMBER 17, 2022
Sail Sand Point is once again hosting their series of Full Moon Sails. The last one of the summer will be on Thursday, August 11. Free sail and SUP rides are open to as many spots as are available. Start time is at 8 p.m. with a dessert potluck and the goal is to be out on Lake Washington around 8:30 p.m. Volunteers will be skippering (or you can take a boat out on your own if you’re checked out) RS Quests, Hobie Waves and keelboats, or you can come out and launch your own boat. All SSP boats will be off the water by 10 p.m. Boat spaces are on a first come first serve basis so arriving early is recommended and participants are encouraged to bring a dessert to share. Sail Sand Point is located on Lake Washington in Magnuson Park in Seattle, WA. » For more information visit www.sailsandpoint.com or contact at info@sailsandpoint.org. 48º NORTH
in partnership with his brothers-in-law at Reads Bay on Decatur Island. Cayou farmed a 500-acre tract on Waldron Island and participated in the initiation of the local electric cooperative in the early 20th century, which is now known as OPALCO (Orcas Power and Light Cooperative). Henry Cayou was elected to the San Juan County Council, where he served 29 years and was chair when Friday Harbor was incorporated. He is the only Native American to have been elected to this county’s board or council.
Seattle Singles Yacht Club (SSYC) has announced “Flamingo Philanthropy” as the theme for their annual Northwest Harvest “Race to Fight Hunger” sailboat race at Shilshole Bay on Puget Sound. SSYC has run this fall sailboat race for 30 years and the 2022 event will take place, with consideration for pandemic concerns, on Saturday, September 17 with the dinner/dance/auction at the Ballard Elks. One primary feature of this race is the “Half Fast” race category created in 2006 (in addition to the regular FS and NFS categories), in which powerboats and other vessels who wish to be more leisurely, but want to participate in this charitable event, can play a part and even win. The winner of the Half Fast class is drawn out of a hat. » Register for the race or purchase dinner and dance tickets at SeattleSinglesYC.com.
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AUGUST 2022
low tides » News & Events HUSKY SAILING CELEBRATES NEW FLYING JUNIOR FLEET
dedication from the team and its supporters to continue a long and valued legacy of competitive sailing and a well-rounded collegiate athletic experience at Washington. Almost 70 people attended the event organized by HSF vice president Carol Buchan, which created a welcome crossroads as the current team mingled with donors, alumni, and family. » Learn more at huskysailingfoundation.org.
On Monday, June 6, multiple generations of Husky Sailing alumni and supporters celebrated the collegiate team’s new fleet of Flying Junior sailboats with a christening ceremony on the shores of Lake Washington. The 12 new boats, a huge expansion for the Husky Sailing Team, represent a major achievement for the Husky Sailing Foundation (HSF), a recently formed nonprofit dedicated to supporting collegiate sailing at the University of Washington. The fleet represents a renewed
low tides » Good Reads GREEN GHOST, BLUE OCEAN: NO FIXED ADDRESS » BY JENNIFER SMITH Early in their careers, Jennifer and her husband Nik come to realize that the rewards in the corporate world will always be the same — more money to buy more things, but never time off for self-discovery. When they begin to imagine a life outside the norm, they seize on the idea of long-distance sailing as the perfect way to journey down a road less traveled. Setting off, the couple sails west from British Columbia in a two-stage voyage that spans 17-years and 40,000-miles via French Polynesia, New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia, the Cape of Good Hope, Caribbean, and then Lake Ontario. Publisher: Pottersfield Press » Price: $16.95
OLD WOOD BOAT » BY NIKKI MCCLURE In a love letter to the sea, renowned artist and illustrator hailing from Olympia, Nikki McClure tells the tale of a restored boat in a timeless and unique way. "Old Wood Boat" follows the story of a dilapidated boat that gets towed home by a family, scraped, scrubbed, sanded, and varnished, and is made beautiful and seaworthy again. After libations have been poured out, the family casts off to new adventures. Each page is masterful, rendered from a single sheet of black paper with precision and care that is sure to captivate readers of all ages. Publisher: Candlewick Press » Price: $17.29
SALMON IN THE SEINE: ALASKAN MEMORIES OF LIFE, DEATH, & EVERYTHING IN-BETWEEN » BY NORRIS COMER In his first book, local PNW mariner and author Norris Comer provides a look at what it’s like to go from landlubber to greenhorn deckhand on a commercial fishing boat and much more. A memoir that sees 18-year-old Comer go from graduation to Alaska to earn money, his harrowing adventure at sea and subsequent solo search for wolves in the Denali backcountry proves to be a transformative bridge from adolescence to adulthood. Publisher: Milspeak Books, Milspeak Foundation, Inc. » Price: $18.95
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AUGUST 2022
low tides » Products News » SEA-SNAP™ SNAP SHACKLE Snap shackles have long been an important piece of gear aboard our sailboats, with a variety of stainless steel and soft options on the market. Looking to offer something that is easier to use than conventional carabiners, snap-hooks, and shackles, SEA-Snap is a single-handed, highload connector for coastal or offshore use. Designed with a 5:1 safety factor, SEA-Snap instantly takes hold and will not release under load. For highly dynamic or long-term connections on a metal fitting or line, the shackle has an integrated locking pin to ensure accidental disconnection does not occur. When you want to disconnect it, simply use one hand to disengage. The SEASnap comes in four color-coded sizes — 5, 10, 12.7, and 16mm. Price: $79.99 » www.sea-stab.com
» GARMIN GC 100 WIRELESS CAMERA It seems that small cameras can be placed anywhere these days, so why not on our boats? Garmin’s new GC 100 is a compact marine camera that wirelessly streams video to any chartplotter on your boat’s network. Effective in lighted spaces or total darkness — perfect for the engine room — the camera can help you monitor areas inside and around your boat, providing added security and practical awareness. The durable, compact design of the camera, weatherproof housing and its secure mounting bracket provide flexible options for placement nearly anywhere you want it. Installation is not complicated and you can pair up to seven cameras with your chartplotter and view content from up to four cameras simultaneously. Price: $314.99 » www.garmin.com
» TIWAL 3R PORTABLE SAILBOAT The Tiwal 3R is the latest addition to the successful Tiwal inflatable sailboat range. Basically a supercharged version of their prior family-friendly sailboats, the new 3R offers better overall performance in a package that can be stored in three bags with a total weight of 121 pounds. Easy to assemble in 25 minutes or less, it can be packed into the trunk of a car or in a large storage compartment on a cruising sailboat. Two years of development has culminated in a boat that was given a new rig and blades, and a modified hull shape. Increased rigidity in the inflatable hull, an aluminum exoskeleton, laminated sails from North, and the 90% percent carbon mast and boom all contribute to the boat’s enhanced responsiveness and performance. With the sheet and tiller in easy reach and a capacity of 440 pounds, the 3R can be singlehanded, sailed by two adults, or with one adult and two kids. Price: $8,800 » www.tiwal.com
48º NORTH
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AUGUST 2022
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seventhwavemarine@olypen.com AUGUST 2022
18
CROSSWORD
DID YOU KNOW? More than a billion grains of sand are born every
second around the world.
TRIVIA
by Bryan Henry
AND
The Udden-Wentworth scale measures the size of
grains, from sand to boulders. Sand grains range in size from ones invisible to the naked eye to the
largest of two millimeters across.
A single grain of sand can be millions of years old
There are about 10,000 grains in a handful of sand.
and is virtually indestructible.
In June 2006, sand artists in Myrtle Beach, South
Carolina, built a sand castle taller than a threestory building.
ACROSS
Hawaii contains several green-sand beaches, its
DOWN
color deriving from olivine, a mineral released by
1
Sailor
1
It’s connected to a boom
5
Pleasure craft
2
Turns over like a wave
8
“I knew it!”
3
Sudden drops
4
Unwanted rodent
About 700,000 tons of sand was dredged from the
5
“Bring It On Home” singer Cooke Atlantic, e.g.
Potomac River in Washington, D.C. to make the
6 7
Courses
9
“Shucks!”
10 Jamaica or Barbados, for
example
11 Storm 13 “How relaxing!” 14 Plea at sea 15 Ship’s crew members 18 Freeze like lakes in winter, 2
words
20 Sails a zigzag course 22 West coast city, abbr. 23 One who engages in daring
adventures
28 Taxi 29 Aquatic mammal 30 Very very long time 31 Have an illness 33 Compass direction
volcanic eruptions.
concrete used to construct the Pentagon.
12 Down
About 70 percent of all sand grains on Earth are
16 Sea south of the USA
made of quartz.
17 Like Tropics weather 19 Waterfall
When standing on a beach at the surf’s edge,
21 Least stormy 24 Pale
looking out over the ocean, the horizon is about
25 In the direction on the stern
three miles distant.
26 Heavy rope 27 Freshen up 32 Driver’s license, for example -
abbr.
Cassino Beach in Brazil, 157 miles long, is the longest beach in the world.
34 Hidden water current
After a hurricane in South Carolina, cannonballs from the Civil War washed up on its beaches. For centuries, beach sands have been used for making lime, concrete and glass. 48º NORTH
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AUGUST 2022
ULLMAN SAILS PNW
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BOAT HAVEN BOATYARD & SHIPYARD: Over 400 of the world’s best marine trades professionals are based at the Boat Haven. Hire the pros or do-it-yourself. Three lifts carry vessels up to 330 tons. Also moorage. Call for details or reservations: 360-385-6211.
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Port Townsend: A Seaport like no other NORTHWEST
RIGGING
Rig locally Sail globally
HISTORIC POINT HUDSON MARINA: Over 50 slips for transient boats. Tie up at the home of the annual Wooden Boat Festival. Also a seaside RV park. As with Boat Haven moorage, you’ll find water, power, showers and laundry. Call for details or reservations: 360-385-2828.
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www.portofpt.com 360-385-6211 48º NORTH
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AUGUST 2022
20
Close to the Water
by Bruce Bateau
GONE SEWING When I got over the jaw-dropping price of a bolt of Sunbrella fabric, I set aside my habitual thriftiness and pulled out my credit card. After all, I reasoned, once transformed into a boat cover, this long-lived material would protect my brightwork, keep me dry, and let my boat breathe during long winter days in the driveway. Then, after making what seemed like a million measurements, I sat down at my sewing table and set to work. The scene in my craft room was far from typical, as I was well aware. Most sailors seem to be men, and although some I know can sew, many more take their canvas needs to a sail loft or a canvas shop. I’ve often thought that sailing would be more interesting if it wasn’t mostly a bunch of dudes enjoying beauty and peace on the water. Similarly, I think guys might benefit from venturing into territory long considered the province of women, and learning to use a sewing machine. Although my mother always had a sewing machine in the house, I first learned to sew when I was putting together a small yawl-rigged wooden boat as an adult. It was about time
to decide if I was going to hire a sailmaker or get a kit to sew. While worthwhile, the sailmaker was expensive, the kit less so — the only problem being that I’d never used a sewing machine in my entire life. Enter my then-new bicycling friend Andy Schmidt, who surprised me by announcing that he was a retired professional sailmaker, one who still owned commercial sewing equipment. He volunteered to help me make a suit of sails. Although Andy did most of the actual sewing, I learned every step of the process, which ignited my love of sewing. Walking into a fabric store is walking into a woman’s world (often a middle-aged woman’s world), and I like it. I enjoy the variety of fabric colors and textures, the array of notions (zippers, buttons, threads, etc.), and I like the sense of possibility that these raw materials provide. I can make anything my imagination cooks up. There’s a more laid-back vibe in a fabric shop than in a sporting goods store, one where cooperation and mutual appreciation of skill contrasts with the brawn on display in the chandlery.
“I’ve never been short on ideas of outdoor gear I wanted to make or things I owned that I thought could be improved with a few additional stitches.” 48º NORTH
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To be honest, what I like best of all at the fabric store is being the odd man out — literally. In a male-dominated world, it’s good to be reminded that not all spaces exist to make me comfortable and cater to people like me. Aside from the occasional husband along for Sherpa duty, I’m usually the sole guy. Toting my notebook of sketches and materials needs, I proceed joyfully through the store, sizing up materials, figuring out the perfect combination of things for my latest creation. When unaccompanied by my own wife, I usually get a wary look from the workers — until I start talking shop. I love the look on their faces when they recognize that I know about hems, selvage, and zigzag stitches, and that I didn’t just wander in off the street. At that moment, I start to feel like a welcome part of the club. A few years ago, when I went to buy fabric for a new cockpit tent, I described to the saleswoman what I was making. “This will be a Conestoga wagon-like design. I’ll place battens in pockets made with a modified French seam.” “Oh, it’s so sexy when a man talks French seams,” she teased. Ultimately, I found material I was excited about that day, and I appreciated the good fun, and the tips on pros/cons of various fabrics. But I left the store wondering: Where were all the men? Andy is my sewing mentor, and the first man I met who could sew, so I rounded him up for a drink to see if he might be able to shed some insight. “Hey, Andy,” I asked, “how’d you learn to sew?” “I read Ray Jardine’s book about ultralight backpacking gear and got myself a thrift store sewing machine, so I could make my own stuff.” From there, he told me, he got interested in boats and found that it was fun and inexpensive to do his own sewing, eventually getting into the business of sailmaking and custom canvas work. These days Andy runs Lord’s Luggage, where he’s applied some of his marine sewing skills to make bicycle and other adventure bags that have salty components, like sister clips — a type of hook used to attach items such as lines and flags — to seal the tops. “Sewing is so cool, there are so many things you can make. Why do you suppose more guys don’t sew?” I asked. “Well, there’s a stigma. I guess they just don’t consider it a masculine thing,” he said. “Andy, since you taught me to sew,” I confessed, “I’ve never been short on ideas of outdoor gear I wanted to make or things I owned that I thought could be improved with a few additional stitches.” We stared into our beers, considering everything our fellow men were missing by not learning how to wield a needle. Andy summed it up well, “Sewing is an opportunity for your imagination.” On my way home, I wondered if men are just less imaginative, and therefore uninterested, or if the long tradition of women sewing was simply a cultural stereotype that was hard to buck. In either case, I’m happy to spend my spare time wandering the aisles of women’s world, collecting the materials to fashion my creative projects. And as for you men out there — you’re missing out! 48º NORTH
The author works on a sewing project for his fleet of boats.
Learning to use a sewing machine takes time, but it’s worth the effort. Bruce Bateau sails and rows traditional boats with a modern twist in Portland, Oregon. His stories and adventures can be found at www.terrapintales.wordpress.com.
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B
My Boat
1991 JEANNEAU 44
TLINGIT
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uilt for an Alaskan expedition, the 1991 Jeanneau 44, Tlingit, has become the perfect family cruiser for owners John and Marcy Baker. With a rotating cast of family and friends as crew, Tlingit voyages the icy waters of Kenai Fjords National Park, Prince William Sound and more from its homeport in Seward, Alaska. In our latest My Boat column, John shares the story behind Tlingit and how the boat remains their family’s ideal platform for exploring Alaska. Our family’s sailing and cruising adventures began on a Newport 30 in 1994, two years after our daughter Megan was born. From there, we quickly moved up to a Beneteau Idylle 10.50 when our second daughter, Erin, arrived in 1995. As the girls grew and we started taking their friends and their friends’ parents out for weekend trips, we decided a bigger boat would be more comfortable and enjoyable for everyone. So in 2004, we contacted Dennis Greathouse at Signature Yachts and set up a time to visit Seattle and step aboard some boats. Dennis was the ultimate patient professional, showing us four boats during a three-day trip to the Seattle area. Ultimately, we fell in love with Tlingit. It was the largest of the boats we viewed, with four berths and two heads, and it was in really good overall condition. We were sold. After purchasing her, we had bottom work done and installed new instrumentation, a heater, and a MaxProp in Anacortes. With Tlingit ready to go, our family then made a 22-day trip up the Inside Passage and across the Gulf of Alaska to get the boat home to Seward. But even before that journey home, Tlingit had her own interesting history of sailing Alaska waters. She was one of four Jeanneau 44s that David Rockefeller Jr. bought for his 50th birthday celebration. The boats were built in France, shipped to the East Coast of the U.S., and trucked across the country to Marine Servicenter in Anacortes to be commissioned. Rockefeller named his four boats Haida, Tlingit, Chugach, and Aleut, all First Nations tribes in Alaska. Rockefeller’s goal was to recreate a bit of the Harriman Expedition, which explored Alaska in 1899, with scientists, AUGUST 2022
Sailing under spinnaker in Resurrection Bay.
poets, writers, and family onboard. The original expedition accomplished mapping and naming new fjords and glaciers and helped to chronicle the incredible addition of Alaska to the United States. Rockefeller’s expedition, dubbed Sail Alaska, had rotating crews that spent 10 weeks sailing from Anacortes to Prince William Sound and then on to Kodiak Island. The major sailing magazines of the day covered the expedition, with photos even grabbing coveted front cover spots. I recently located the October 1991 issue of “Cruising World,” in which then-editor Bernadette Bernon wrote a feature article while onboard Tlingit. After Rockefeller’s trips in 1991 and 1992, Tlingit stayed in Alaska and became part of the sailing programs offered by Jim and Nancy Lethcoe, authors of “Cruising Guide to Prince William Sound.” The other boats went back to the Seattle area and were sold. Tlingit eventually found her way back south to Cap Sante Marina in Anacortes and was also put up for sale. Now our crew of family and friends sail on Tlingit from April through September, and we’ve spent at least 60 days out of the harbor every year we’ve owned her. These adventures have taken us as far west as Geographic Harbor,across Shelikof Strait west of Kodiak, and we’ve extensively explored Kenai Fjords National Park and just about every nook and cranny in Prince William Sound. When we arrived in Kodiak, the harbormaster came down to the boat with the original local newspaper article and picture of the four Sail Alaska boats in the 48º NORTH
harbor in 1991. It was the first time any of the boats had come back, he said, and he was glad to have Tlingit there again. Tlingit is the perfect Alaska adventure sailboat. She has voluminous storage, abundant water tankage, bunk space for nine guests, a Webasto hydronic heater for the cold and wet days, and a beautiful teak interior that is comfortable and relaxing. On deck we have a Neil Pryde classic mainsail and roller-furling jib, an asymmetrical spinnaker, nine winches, a powerful windlass, and a 10-foot Inmar dinghy with a 9.8-horsepower Tohatsu outboard engine for frequent beach and cove explorations. We love the way the boat sails. We’ve been in big winds and high seas many times and have full confidence in her to keep us safe. One of the best parts of owning Tlingit, though, is making so many wonderful memories while raising our girls, when sailing was our main family summer activity throughout their childhoods. Every day out included at least a beach walk, but also often a long hike, dinghy or kayak exploration, and sometimes even snorkeling in a quiet cove. We fondly remember playing games on deck during particularly calm crossings to Prince William Sound. Both girls also improved their reading skills as we took turns reading chapters of each “Harry Potter” book when it was released. We loved having the girls in our laps in the morning and each night as we read books and talked about our day. I don’t think you can find a better way to spend time with your children than
being onboard a boat, away from the distractions of 24-hour connectivity. Megan and Erin still come out sailing with us whenever they have an opportunity, and we have a crack crew of friends from all of our time together over the years. Marcy and I retired two years ago and initially thought we would just cruise Alaska and the Inside Passage. But another plan was hatched during a Prince William Sound trip in 2020, and we decided to sail Tlingit to Mexico with a buddy boat for at least a season or two. We wrote down the improvements we wanted for an extended voyage and started to work down our large to-do list. Alas, in the midst of all the preparation, we decided that we weren’t ready to give up summer cruising in Alaska, even if only for two years. Instead, we ended up buying a Beneteau 49 in San Francisco that we could use to cruise to Mexico. We spent our first winter in Mexico this past year after doing the Baja Ha-Ha rally, and enjoyed being on a boat for seven straight months. We love our retirement lifestyle of cruising in Mexico during the cold and dark winter months back home, and then enjoying the incredible cruising available to us in Alaska during the summer aboard Tlingit. I’m not sure how long we’ll maintain two large boats, but for now, we feel fortunate to have the best of both worlds.
Want to share the story of your boat in a future column? Contact andy@48north.com.
Tlingit rests at anchor in Thumb Cove near Seward, AK.
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Beacon Background
by Lisa Mighetto
THE SENTINELS OF SAN JUAN ISLAND San Juan Island offers two distinctive beacons in two unique settings. Both reflect the ongoing story of mariners in the Salish Sea. When you are cruising in the area this summer, they are worth checking out by water and by land. The Cattle Point Lighthouse. Photo courtesy of Washington State Archives. 48º NORTH
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English troops gathered on the northern part of the island. British Rear Admiral Robert Lambert Baynes attempted to deescalate tensions, declaring that he would not “involve two great nations in a war over a squabble about a pig.” The dispute ended in the early 1870s, when an international commission ruled in favor of the U.S. and established the boundary at Haro Strait. Diplomacy thus prevailed in the “Pig War.” Cattle Point remained an important strategic location, especially for mariners navigating the Strait of Juan de Fuca. During the 1880s, the son of a soldier formerly stationed at American Camp maintained a lantern on a wooden post, using kerosene that was dropped off at nearby Griffin Bay. According to the Seattle Daily Times, he carried the fuel in tin cans by horseback (March 6, 1960). In 1921 the Navy took over the light at Cattle Point, adding a radio compass station to broadcast signals for sailors making their way through dense fog. When the Navy closed the compass station in 1935, a modern concrete tower was erected. During the mid-20th century, international yacht racers confirmed the need for a light at Cattle Point. In 1948, the International Cruiser Race — 145 miles from Tacoma to Vancouver, B.C. — proved to be “too tough” (Seattle Daily Times, July 19, 1948). “Yachtsmen were a tired, hollow-eyed lot when they checked in Saturday,” a reporter noted. “One yacht limped in, leaking from hitting a submerged log. The window of another’s house was missing, bashed in by Father Neptune.” The cause of this calamity? Many cruisers complained “they couldn’t find the weak-blinking Cattle Point Light because it was so rough in the Straits.” Accordingly, the next year’s Capital-to-Capital predictive log race, which began at the Olympia Yacht Club, altered the course to run inside Deception Pass and scheduled the dates to take advantage of moonlight. The hope was that unlike the previous year, racers would not find themselves “aground here and there, milling around in the Strait of Juan de Fuca trying to find Cattle Point Light” (Seattle Daily Times, July 9, 1949). In the late 1950s, the beacon was automated and its lantern was replaced with a drum lens that sits on top of the tower. The exposed optic uses photoelectric cells to activate the light at night. The Cattle Point Light was one of the first in the state to receive such an upgrade.
CATTLE POINT LIGHTHOUSE It is hard to miss the Cattle Point Lighthouse when sailing through Cattle Pass and onward to San Juan Channel. This relatively short beacon, with its simple, clean lines and gleaming white facade, stands stark on the windswept bluff at the southeastern tip of San Juan Island. Sailors approaching or leaving Friday Harbor from the south can look for the light that flashes white every four seconds. While lacking in ornamentation, this beacon remains a dramatic, highly visible landmark in a specular seascape. The Coast Salish have long revered this spot for its abundance of salmon, shellfish, and plants, including camas bulbs, that flourished on the prairie. During the 19th century, these and other resources lured settler colonists from a variety of nations, leading to questions about the rights of occupancy. In 1846, the Treaty of Oregon, signed in London, established the boundary between the U.S. and Britain at the 49th parallel, yet failed to clarify whether the border extended to Haro Strait on the west side of the San Juan Islands or Rosario Strait to the east. During the years of confusion that followed, both countries continued to occupy San Juan Island. The Hudson’s Bay Company, an English enterprise, operated a sheep and cattle ranch on the southern tip of the island, where the animals grazed the prairie. In 1859 an American farmer who lived nearby shot an English pig that wandered into his potato patch. When British authorities threatened to arrest him, dispatching warships with guns aimed at the shoreline, the Americans formed a defensive camp at Cattle Point while
Many cruisers complained “they couldn’t find the weakblinking Cattle Point Light because it was so rough in the Straits.”
The author and her family at Cattle Point Lighthouse. Photo by Lisa Mighetto. 48º NORTH
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LIME KILN LIGHTHOUSE There are many reasons for boaters to explore the west side of San Juan Island. The scenery here is unsurpassed, offering views of distant islands and snowy peaks across the expanse of Haro Strait. Orcas, porpoises, seals, and other marine life are frequently spotted. Lush stands of Douglas fir, western hemlock, and Pacific madrone dot the shoreline. The Lime Kiln Lighthouse, which sits on the rocky shore overlooking Deadman Bay, adds charm and a glimpse into the past. Named for the lime processing industry in the area, this beacon began operating in 1919. It was equipped with a fourth-order Fresnel lens installed in the 38-foot concrete and masonry tower and included an attached fog-signal building. The octagonal design was a replica of the beacon at Alki Point (see 48° North, May 2022), and like the Seattle light station, featured two keepers’ residences behind the beacon. As this was a remote location in 1919, electricity was slow to arrive and early keepers had to do without. For several decades, an incandescent oil-vapor lamp was used as the light source in the lens, requiring constant vigilance by the keepers. In 1951, the light station converted to electricity, and the Fresnel lens was replaced with a non-rotating, 375 mm drum lens that used an electric light bulb. Electric foghorns were also installed at that time. Louis Betteker exemplified the adventurous spirit of Lime Kiln keepers. In the late 19th century, the goldfields of the Klondike lured him west from his hometown of Canton, Ohio. “I started out to see the world and landed in Dawson at the time of the gold rush,” he explained. “Finding no gold, I came out and joined the Lighthouse Service.” (Seattle Daily Times, December 26, 1937). As a keeper at the Lime Kiln Lighthouse, Betteker distinguished himself in 1923 by rescuing two mariners whose boat caught fire.
The Lime Kiln Lighthouse began operating in 1919. Photo courtesy of US Coast Guard.
Lime Kiln Lighthouse. Photo by Lisa Mighetto.
During the 1930s, Betteker transferred to the West Point Light Station in Seattle, and Arvel Settlers arrived at Lime Kiln with his wife and five children. By all accounts, his kids sound like they were a handful. One day, for example, two of the boys decided to row all the way across Haro Strait to Canada, with their mother anxiously tracking their progress with binoculars from shore. When they returned, the boys concluded “It’s the same there as here.” On another occasion, the boys were on the water fishing when a whale chased their boat. “Oh, did we go,” one of them marveled. “We made the water fly.” A favorite activity was taking old boats that washed up on shore, plugging the holes with rags, and launching them using an oar as a rudder and gunny sacks as sails. The Coast Guard automated the beacon in 1962, using photoelectric cells to activate the light at dusk. In 1998, the drum lens was replaced with a modern optic that flashed a white light once every 10 seconds. Today, the lighthouse is part of Lime Kiln State Park and is open to the public. While the San Juan Island lights are remnants of the past, they are still operational. Both can be viewed when cruising San Juan Channel and Haro Strait, adding utility and beauty to this storied destination. For more information on the Lime Kiln Light, see: https://www.parks.wa.gov/540/Lime-Kiln-Point For more information on the Cattle Point Light, see: https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/cattle-point-lighthouse.
Lisa Mighetto is a historian and sailor residing in Seattle. She is grateful to Washington State Parks for information and materials for this article. 48º NORTH
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Casting Off
LOOKING FOR SLUDGE IN ALL THE WRONG PLACES
Disassembling and cleaning the carburetor.
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Whenever the small engine on my Uncle Jess’ Chris-Craft stalled, he’d remove the cowling and work some mechanical magic with a screwdriver to get it started again. Not one for regular maintenance, my uncle learned about every part of the boat through failed systems and trial and error. Long before the days of YouTube and Amazon Prime, Jess relied on duct tape, tie wire and a big hammer to assist him in most repairs. He had the confidence and carefree attitude to believe that he could deal with whatever problem arose on his boat or car. There have been many times when I wished that I had some of my uncle’s approach to life. When my wife, Laura, and I bought Ariel, our 1973 28-foot Columbia sloop, we had hoped that having a small outboard engine might mitigate many of the problems associated with a massive inboard diesel engine. We knew nothing about diesels, but nearly everyone we spoke to said that they were almost maintenance-free and would run forever. That bit of urban legend belied the experience of a new sailing friend who recounted tales of frustration with his Iron Genny over the past year, spending thousands of dollars on the repair of his engine’s transmission and drive shafts. So buying a boat with an engine that could be “easily” brought to a repair shop in the back of our minivan seemed like a good fit for new sailors like ourselves. Still, we should have been more aware of possible problems for the small gaspowered engine when the previous owner was unable to fire it up during our first examination of Ariel. We came back the following day to learn that the problem seemed to have been remedied with a swap of the old gas in the tank with a fresh batch. And sure enough, the small four-stroke outboard was trouble-free for
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by David Casey about three months. Then I unintentionally found myself in the middle of a crash course on engine troubleshooting when the sputtering engine echoed like thunder as we returned to port after one of our short sailing adventures on Puget Sound. Whether you’re gripping the steering wheel of a car or the tiller of a boat, the sound of a sputtering engine can instantly send worry, apprehension and even fear throughout your mind and body. Uncertainty about the safety of your location, the time that it may take for a tow vehicle to arrive, and the cost and downtime needed for repairs may all loom large. And having a vessel that is unfamiliar only adds to that fear of the unknown. Well, at least it did for Laura and me in the first few months of owning Ariel, with its 9.9-horsepower Yamaha engine. As we researched possible reasons for engine malfunction and asked our helpful and knowledgeable dock mates, Tom and Fred, we seemed convinced that water in the fuel tank was the culprit, though how it got there was a mystery to us. And the solution was not as easy as replacing the gas or adding fuel stabilizer to the tank, leading us to a two-month problemsolving excursion that provided me with “opportunities” to learn about fuel filters, carburetors, and gas tanks. I think Sisyphus may have had an easier time pushing his boulder uphill than I did trying to repair that Yamaha. While my heavy load didn’t roll back on me, hoisting it out of the well from the aft section of the cockpit nearly felt like it, and the engine seemed to resist every attempt I made to restore it to working order. I first learned from another dockmate that despite removing water from the tank, the carburetor might still contain a AUGUST 2022
Ariel’s engine compartment. residual amount of H2O and would require draining. When I responded to him with a deer-in-the-headlights look, he said all I needed to do was remove the small hex plug below the carb and any waterpolluted fuel would trickle out onto the special gas absorbent cloth that I had stuffed below the drain hole. He offered me a 10 mm open-ended wrench for the job and sat on the dock providing moral support for the task. Believing that the problem had finally been resolved, Laura and I were shocked and shaken when the engine died as we backed out of our slip the following day, causing Ariel to slowly drift toward a J/36 at the end of the dock. Reminding ourselves that everything was going to be all right, we overcame our momentary panic and were able to easily push off the starboard side of the larger boat from our stern. I repeatedly tried starting the engine and was tremendously relieved when it finally turned over, allowing us to sheepishly return Ariel to her home. I decided it was time to call the local boat repairman to take over. Derek inspected the Yamaha thoroughly, then suggested draining the tank to remove any water or debris. After seeing the sludge that was removed from the bottom of the tank, Laura and I once again thought we had discovered the source of the problem and figured we were now good to go. We set out for a sail the next day, enjoying variable winds on Commencement Bay until dropping the sails and firing up the engine. The Yamaha seemed fine … until it suddenly died about a quarter-mile from the marina. We hailed a passing fishing 48º NORTH
A hard to find fuel filter was the culprit. boat, which was kind enough to tow us to the marina’s guest dock. Back to the drawing board! When I went to the local marine engine supply store and described my problem to the owner, he said an engine working at high throttle but stalling at low RPMs might be the result of clogged carburetor jets, and that I should remove the entire carburetor and bring it in for a sonic cleaning. After YouTubing carburetor removal and cleaning, I took the plunge and carefully followed the tutorials, taking photos at every step, and brought the part in as the technicians suggested. But even after replacing the refurbished carb and installing a new fuel filter/water separator, the little engine that could, didn’t. After climbing around in the cave below the cockpit where the original diesel once lived, I finally discovered the source of the problem. Tucked high along an interior partition wall was another fuel filter/ water separator, one that looked like it had not been changed or cleaned this century. Upon draining the water separator cup into a jar, I was confused when examining the liquid. The telltale water bubble at the bottom of the jar that indicates water intrusion was not apparent. I realized that the liquid was entirely water! Then, upon removing the filter with a Herculean effort, the source of our engine problem became even more apparent. The fuel in the filter itself, if it could be called that, resembled sludge from the bottom of a lake more than gasoline for an engine. And further down in the line, nearer the gas tank, was a fuel pump left over from Ariel’s days with a diesel engine, a now vestigial part no doubt filled with debris
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that was probably blocking the flow along the gas line as well. Another trip to the marine engine store resulted in a new water separator, a clean carburetor from the prior visit, and an engine-mounted gas filter for good measure. After installing the new parts, priming the water separator, and crossing my fingers, the little Yamaha that could finally did! It purred like a kitten after I adjusted the throttle set screw. We tested the engine under load while tied up in our berth, and satisfied that it wouldn’t die, set out for a short and successful test run. I wouldn’t have known about the hidden filter below the cockpit without searching for the root of our engine’s problem, and I certainly would never have been confident enough to remove the carburetor without the support from friends, technicians, and YouTube. I’m not quite ready to jury-rig a solution to a consistent problem the way Uncle Jess did, but I now understand a little better why he wasn’t too concerned about problems. After getting my hands dirty and my knuckles scraped, I understand Ariel a little better than I did before. And my knowledge of her inner workings has given me the peace of mind to enjoy what she has to offer, whether she moves through the water under power, paddle, or sail.
David Casey is a retired math teacher and semiprofessional woodworker and bass player. He plans on using his retirement to build a small sailboat and a kayak, and to explore the waters of southern Puget Sound. AUGUST 2022
by Matt Nelson
MEMORABLE MOMENTS ON PASSAGE FROM ORCAS ISLAND TO ALASKA
W
e left Orcas Island on a Tuesday in late May with our sights set on Alaska. After all the pre-departure complexities and preparation, we savored the reality of finally being on our way. It was spring 2021, and though recreational boat traffic was now being allowed through Canada, my girlfriend, Jaime, and I weren’t keen on the complexities of an Inside Passage route to Sitka. I’d experienced the scenic and mostly protected inside route to Alaska several times; we were more excited about the potential challenges, memories, and experience an offshore passage would surely offer. And we weren’t disappointed. Since purchasing Xangala, my 1970s-era Nicholson 33, I’d
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been fitting out and preparing for more offshore time. Jaime and I were ready to experience swell, wind, and uninterrupted sailing again. This was the type of sailing we looked forward to, and the trip had an additional mission. A good friend, Mike, had moved to Sitka almost 16 years earlier. Mike had patiently mentored me as a shipwright, teaching me skills that serve me to this day. Embodying a rare depth and honesty, he had become one of my best friends. A visit with him was long overdue. Catching an early morning ebb, we sailed across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Port Angeles, our last stop before heading offshore, and ended up waiting there for two nights as a big low weakened west of the Washington coast. Our strategy for the passage was to put “money in the bank” by gaining westing and northing. With enough westing, we could then sail on a port tack, and if the wind shifted to the northwest, we could at least make it through Dixon Entrance (remember, we were trying to avoid entering Canadian waters). Friday morning we awoke as the light started to appear and used five of our 22 gallons of fuel getting to the entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. As we neared Neah Bay, the swell began
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Xangala sailing in a fresh breeze on Haro Strait. batteries with the engine. But when I pushed the start button, it was clear something was wrong. The labored, slow turning of the engine indicated it was under some sort of load. In gear? No. I initially wasn’t too concerned — until I noticed that our 100-watt solar panel wasn’t working, which was two-thirds of our charging power. Our chart plotter, AIS, and running lights were really useful and we were using more power than we were generating, even with both panels working. Troubleshooting commenced, and we discovered that pressing on the flexible panel in a particular area resulted in consistent charging. We tied a small Tupperware container to the top of the dodger and tightened it down. Problem solved, though the charging capability was diminished. Then we started on the engine issue. We decided to drain water out of the water lift and the exhaust, and removed a partition that allowed access to the side of the engine. Sweaty and long overdue for proper sleep, I was happily surprised to easily disconnect both ends of the exhaust hose from the water lift. Sure enough, quite a bit of water flowed out and into the shallow bilge. With the cabin in total disarray, I inserted the engine key and pressed the starter button. Without any hesitation, the Yanmar chugged to life and purred. Yes! I breathed a sigh of relief and looked at my watch — 6 p.m. We’d gone without sleep all day, but our minds were at ease.
to show itself and the reality of heading offshore became real. By Cape Flattery, we started to pick up some light southwesterly winds, and the beginning of the flood began to frustrate our efforts to keep the sails filled, clear the U.S./Canada border, and head in any sort of useful direction. As darkness fell, the wind kept increasing and backing toward the southeast. That first night was not fun — it rained, the sea state was rough, and we were both seasick. Fortunately, we were prepared mentally, our Hydrovane was working perfectly, and we were sailing at a consistent 5 to 6 knots to the northwest. Sitka, here we come! ONWARD TO ALASKA The next couple of days embodied a surreal sense of time, sailing under a double-reefed main and working jib in 18to 20-knot winds and 6- to 9-foot seas. This was the first passage in Xangala for either of us, and even with our modest displacement, we had a quick three-dimensional motion in the conditions. Our fourth morning out dawned sunny and relatively warm, with 8 knots from the west. Thinking we were in for a bit of a break, we stripped off our boots and socks, lost the wool hats, and got ready for a much-needed rest day. Alas, it was not to be. The problems started with a minor repair to the boom vang attachment. After resolving that, I decided to charge the 48º NORTH
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at 4 a.m., we hoisted the main with a single reef and increased the jib area to keep the boat powered up in the sloppy seas. This is always the worst part of rough weather — when the sea state is far beyond normal for the wind speed. We pointed up a bit to increase the apparent wind and keep steady pressure on the sails.
PUSHING NORTH Checking the weather, we noticed that by afternoon on the following day, we would probably have 20 to 25 knots of southeast wind, peaking at 33 with gusts of 40 by midnight. To prepare, we rigged the storm jib on the solent stay, ate a meal, got snacks ready, and secured everything down below. As evening approached, the wind and seas began to build. We dropped the main and ran with a little triangle of the 110 jib out. At times I thought we were sailing more conservatively than needed and had seen the peak of wind. Within a half hour, though, visibility dropped to a quarter mile, the wind picked up, and the sea state intensified. An hour later, we were being flung down bigger seas at speeds I hadn’t experienced in Xangala. In the growing darkness, it felt too fast. The apparent wind was showing 30 to 33 knots and our boatspeed was 6 to 7 knots, sometimes hitting 10. In an attempt to slow the boat, I decided to tow a warp to see what that might feel like. We got out a heavy nylon rode, flaked its 250-foot length into the cockpit, carefully made fast the two ends, and let it stream astern in a long bight, each end tied off on the quarter cleats. I expected a lot of resistance once the line was paid out, but it was fairly easy to pull in either end by hand and didn’t really seem to affect our speed much. What did stop, though, was the feeling of being on the edge of control in the bigger surfs. Hearing the seas sloshing onto the deck or whacking the side of the hull, I ruefully chuckled at the discomfort we intentionally subject ourselves to. There comes a time when you just have to trust; I needed to sleep, and incredibly, I was able to. The howling in the rigging started to fade intermittently, and
THE HOMESTRETCH On day seven, Baranof Island slowly came into view. We were almost paralleling the island’s coast, closing in at a very shallow angle, so it didn’t appear to be getting closer very quickly, despite our 6-plus knots in the blustery beauty. We were grateful to have such good conditions for making miles on what might be our last day of the passage. Numerous humpback whales appeared and as evening stretched on, the cloud cover broke up and thinned, golden light setting the coast aglow. Sitka Sound was tantalizingly close, yet unreachable for now. As the sun set, I collapsed on the bridge deck while Jaime handsteered. We were still 10 miles from Biorka Island and its reefs marking the southern opening of Sitka Sound. I nodded off, waking every 15 or 20 minutes to witness the melding of sunset to a luminous red twilight, to sunrise. Remarkably, it never got dark! With the pre-dawn glow came a brisk 10-knot breeze from the northwest that allowed us to sail close-hauled on a port tack directly into Sitka Sound. I went below to fall asleep on the cabin sole, trusting Jaime’s awareness and helmsmanship. When I woke, I felt Xangala’s powerful movement through the water. I took in the sight of Jaime confidently steering, a big smile on her face as the wind whipped her hair.
Mount Edgecumbe backlit by sunrise on day 8.
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A gorgeous view of iconic Mount Edgecumbe while sailing into Sitka Sound.
Out the companionway, Mount Edgecumbe, a dormant volcano striped with snowfields, commanded the sky to the west. To the east, snow-capped peaks on Baranof Island caught the morning light. We spotted a small pod of orcas, the morning sun glinting on their dorsal fins. Grinning ear to ear, we were captivated by the world around us. We couldn’t believe how gorgeous and magical this moment was. Studying the entrances to Sitka Harbor, we chose the west one and literally sailed right to the breakwater, then started the engine. We’d arranged to tie up in a slip right next to my friend Mike’s boat, Nepenthe, and soon we were all eating breakfast and sipping coffee aboard. The warmth of this reunion felt like a natural extension to the utter magic of our landfall.
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From Port Angeles to Sitka had taken us eight days and two hours. We had sailed from Neah Bay to Sitka Harbor, with only a half-hour of engine use to charge the batteries. And while not all of it was easy, it certainly was rewarding.
Matt Nelson has been adventuring in North Pacific waters since early childhood, sailing in Alaska, British Columbia, Mexico, and Hawaii. A licensed captain, he enjoys working with sailors on their vessels through his business The Fluid Life Coaching, helping clients gain experience and confidence in the many skills inherent to sailing offshore, singlehanding, and cruising.
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VELELLA: A BOAT
AND HER LEGACY “Did you just buy this boat?” a man on the dock asked. “Yup.”
by Wendy Hinman
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Technically, the deal hadn’t quite closed. We were still awaiting the final signature from the co-owner’s ex-wife. “Looks better already!” While my husband, Garth, and I were waiting, we’d used a screwdriver to remove the boat’s ugly safety netting, which was attached haphazardly to the lifelines with zip ties and screwed directly into the wooden decks. We could hardly bear to look at its poor installation. “The last owner sure didn’t do the boat any favors,” the man said, looking at the faded, edge-torn blue tape and worn varnish that revealed chips and spots of bare wood in places. “If he had owned her any longer, it might look even worse.” Smiling, the woman with him said, “She used to be ours. We are so glad someone will finally give her the TLC she deserves.” I nodded. This kind of neglect seemed like a crime. The boat was unique, and a little care would restore her beauty. “Are you going to be here for a while?” the man asked. “We’ve got some old photos of her and her construction. We’ll go get them.” The boat had clearly been built with pride. I admired the fine woodworking, and the sparkling honey-gold varnish on the interior coach roof highlighted AUGUST 2022
the craftsmanship that made this boat such a special find. She was a rare cold-molded wooden cutter — strong, light, and seaworthy — with a shallow canoe body, fin keel, and transomhung rudder on a skeg. Her simplicity appealed to us. And, as we would discover over many sea miles, she tracked beautifully and surfed easily. When the couple returned, they showed us photos of the boat under construction and others documenting changes they made. Their names were Kevin and Debbie Kelly, and we spent hours learning about the boat from them. They told us the boat’s builder, Michael Butler, had built this Tom Wylie-designed 31 footer for himself and sailed her to the South Pacific. She had originally been named Loco, and when the Kellys bought her from him they renamed her Timbre. There was currently no name on the hull, though according to the paperwork, the last owner had renamed her Irie Wind. Eager for a fresh start, we decided to call her Velella. The name paid homage to Vela, the boat on which Garth circumnavigated the globe, as well as the sea creatures that bear this name. Since we bought the boat in 1998, we’ve remained in contact with the Kellys. They were delighted to see their old boat touring the high seas during our seven-year voyage. As we sailed her 34,000 miles around the Pacific, Kevin and Debbie Kelly would periodically reply to my newsletter updates about our adventures. A couple years after we returned from our voyage, a yacht broker approached us about buying Velella. He’d heard from mutual friends about our plans to build a new boat and scoured my voyage blog to learn more about Velella. Reasoning that we’d be likely to sell our old boat before building the new one, he broached the subject with Garth. After 14 years, faced with replacing or repairing the same items for a second or third time, Garth was ready sooner than I was to consider an offer. I was admittedly reluctant to part with my baby. We’d shared so many adventures together, visiting 19 countries and facing down storms, typhoons, and ships that threatened to turn her into kindling. I savored memories of our voyage and even devoted years to capturing them in the form of a book. Just before my first book, “Tightwads on the Loose,” was published, Swiftsure Yachts broker Ryan Helling and his wife, Autumn, made a serious offer to buy Velella. I had to finally admit that it made sense to accept so she wouldn’t be neglected. After a bit of back and forth, we agreed to their offer. Before parting company, I wanted to feature Velella at my book’s launch party, as I considered our little stalwart voyager to be the star of the story. On the day of the party, we tied her alongside Seattle’s Corinthian Yacht Club for people to step aboard for a tour and we slept aboard her for the last time. It was an emotional experience, a mixture of joy and sadness. The day after the book launch, we took Velella through the Ballard locks and docked in Lake Union, leaving her in Ryan and Autumn’s care. For the next few years, they bestowed upon Velella a flurry of upgrades including paint, varnish, new sails, hatches, and canvas work until she gleamed. The Hellings cruised and raced the boat throughout Puget Sound and British Columbia, and when they featured her in the 2017 Wooden 48º NORTH
Michael Butler’s dream boat, Loco, under various stages of construction in California in 1979.
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Her simplicity appealed to us.
Velalla dressed up in Port Townsend.
Autumn, Ryan and Ernie sailing off Shilshole Bay Marina.
Velella scooting along under spinnaker.
Autumn and Ernie in Velalla’s cozy main salon. 48º NORTH
Boat Festival, I felt pride in pointing her out from the table where I sold books about her adventures. While Ryan and Autumn were living aboard Velella, their son, Ernie, was born. I suspected that the modest 31-footer might not suit their needs for long, so I wasn’t surprised in the fall of 2019 when Ryan told me they’d decided to sell Velella to buy a larger boat. We could hardly have hoped for better parents for our baby than Ryan and Autumn and were afraid we might not be so lucky again. As Covid-19 shutdowns began in spring of 2020, Ryan put the boat on the market. I worried it might be difficult to find any buyer under the circumstances, much less a good one. Velella needed new caretakers who wanted to give her the care she deserved, and we hoped Ryan and Autumn would find someone who appreciated her history and unique charms as much as we did. Along came Derek Bottles and Becca Galfer. Not only were they excited about Velella’s history sailing the Pacific, they were eager to learn more about her construction and her past. Starting with the knowledge that the boat was built by Michael Butler in San Diego, Derek hunted for more clues. He remembered a San Diego sailor friend with the last name Butler and wondered if they were related. His friend Mark replied no, but noted that Michael Butler’s dad, John, had been mayor of San Diego and a member of San Diego Yacht Club. A quick search showed that John Butler was mayor of San Diego from 1951 to 1955 and was survived by his kids, including a Michael Butler of Fort Bragg, California, who was a competitive racing sailor. Derek hunted down his contact info and emailed to inquire whether he might be the boat builder. Yes, Michael replied, and shared photos from the 1979 launching of the boat, which he called Loco. In 1978, Michael had been a young boat builder at C&B Marine in Santa Cruz, California, and his goal was to build a boat while attending college. He drew inspiration for Loco from his work on the Tom Wylie-designed Wild Spirit and wanted a 31-foot version of his own. He used cedar strip planking and two diagonal veneers for the hull, and installed portholes he’d salvaged from a derelict houseboat at age 17 with the hopes of building a boat someday. When Michael completed the boat, he set sail and covered much of the Pacific Ocean, meeting his future wife along the way. After returning, he sold the boat to the Kellys, who moved her to the Pacific Northwest. The Kellys kept her for years and made some modifications to make the boat more comfortable, creating a V-berth bunk and extending the cockpit coaming. Thanks to Derek’s sleuthing, those of us who appreciated his fine craftsmanship finally had the chance to connect with Michael Butler and tell him how much we loved the boat he built. I even sent him a copy of my book detailing Velella’s
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adventures with us aboard. In spring 2021, Derek and Becca sailed Velella to the Seattle Yacht Club outstation at Port Madison on Bainbridge Island, where we had a partial owners’ reunion, along with Ryan and Autumn Helling. Since Derek wanted to replace Velella’s primary winches with selftailing ones, he offered us the original ones to use on the boat we are building on the island. In true tightwad style, we accepted. Fittingly, when Garth and I finally finish our new boat, she’ll carry the winches from Velella’s circumnavigation of the Pacific, as well as her old compass, which was also used aboard Vela during Garth’s circumnavigation of the globe when he was a teen. Ideal talismans for future adventures. This year Velella will be featured in the 45th annual Wooden Boat Festival in Port Townsend and we hope to include a placard with information about her original construction, renovations, and rich history sailing Pacific waters. We look forward to another happy reunion, hoping that in addition to Derek and Becca the other former owners of Velella — the Kellys, the Hellings, and her builder Michael Butler — will also be there to celebrate her. During the show, Garth and I will share construction photos of our new 38-footer, and you’ll notice how many of her features were inspired by Michael Butler’s original craftsmanship. You can view photos of Velella and her adventures on designer Tom Wylie’s Website: http://www.wyliedesigngroup. com/wylie_design_group/wood/Pages/ Velella_-_31_Cruiser.html And on the Velella blog: http:// yachtvelella.blogspot.com/
Wendy Hinman is an adventurer, speaker, and the award-winning author of two books: Tightwads on the Loose tells the story of her 34,000-mile voyage aboard a 31-foot sailboat with her husband. Sea Trials details the harrowing roundthe-world voyage of a family who must overcome a shipwreck, gun boats, mines, thieves, pirates, scurvy and starvation to achieve their dream. For more information, please visit: www.wendyhinman.com. 48º NORTH
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NEVER SAY
‘EASY’ ON A BOAT, SOME OF THE SIMPLEST DAYS CAN TURN INTO THE HARDEST
by Mike Miller
“It’s going to be a clear short trip tomorrow, we don’t have to rush in the morning. It will be easy.” I told my wife, Beth, the day before making a stop in Bella Bella, British Columbia. I need to quit saying things like that. Nothing is ever easy on a boat — and our Norseman 535, Loki, is always listening. After 12 years of living aboard Loki and replacing nearly all of her systems, our family of four knows her well. Yet, as with all boats, we expect the unexpected. Beth and I, along with our sons, 11-year-old Logan and 3-year-old Solomon, learned this lesson again while in the midst of a spring cruise up the Inside Passage to Alaska. The following morning was much calmer than the previous day, and exiting Kwakume Inlet was not as daunting as the entrance had been. Fitz Hugh Sound had become much more bearable, and we continued our way north again. The wind began picking up out of the northeast when we neared Burke Channel and noticed that these long channels seem to create 48º NORTH
their own wind tunnels. Not more than 10 minutes later, we heard heavy clunk, bang, whacking sounds, along with a tremendous amount of vibration underneath our feet — what was happening? I took the engine out of gear, pointed Loki into the wind and in a flash, Beth pulled out our in-mast furling mainsail. As she did, I unfurled the headsail and we started beating into the wind trying to make our way north. With Loki under sail now, we turned off the engine to assess what was happening and gather our frayed wits. The adrenaline was pumping hard and we realized we had to figure this out on our own and underway. Tacking east, then northwest and back again, we made slow progress north. After an hour or two of beating to weather, the breeze began to calm — 12, 10, 9, then
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Approaching Bella Bella.
7 knots of wind, which brought our progress to a crawl. Coupled with the oncoming tide, we began to slide back down the sound. The thought crossed my mind, “Do we go back?” No, we couldn’t. It would be farther back to Port Hardy and we didn’t want to backtrack around Cape Caution. We would have to find a way to make it to Bella Bella to hopefully find a diver. Or one of us would have to don the 7-mm wetsuit and go in ourselves.
Not finding anything wrong with the transmission and with the wind dying, we decided to start the engine again to see if we could limp north. We crossed our fingers and took a deep breath. The engine clicked on instantly, and we held our collective breath and put it in forward. The gear engaged and there was no clunking! Not wanting to take any chances, we furled in the headsail and pointed north, slowly making our way against the current
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at about 4 knots. Curious to see if we could make better time, I pushed the throttle up to 1500 rpms — there was a new vibration below us, but the clunking had stopped. Then, when I nudged the boat ahead some more, the prop started making a thunking noise, so I quickly backed down to 1500 rpms, which moved us ahead at about 6 knots. It wasn’t going to be a fast ride, but we could make it. Almost within a half hour of the engine working again, the wind started to pick up and it was, of course, directly on our bow. Onward we plodded, and about two hours later we made the turn west around Bickford Rock. As we neared the rocky point, a few thumps below reminded us to stay on our toes. We headed west through Lama Passage and the north wind was blocked by Denny Island. The water calmed, and off in the distance we saw the spout of a whale. All those terrifying moments melted away to amazement as we saw another spout and then the large tail of the humpback rise above the water and slip quietly into the depths. Lama Passage turned to the north and in the distance, we could see the town of Bella Bella. Our plan was to anchor near Shearwater Resort, which has a marine store and shipyard, and sort things out. As we motored through the harbor toward the resort, we noticed the depth was approximately 70 feet throughout. Typically, this would not have given us pause to drop the hook, but with the day’s events, we decided to radio in and stay the night at the dock. We needed a break. The dock was mostly empty except for our friends on Some Day and a couple other boats. It was a relief to tie up and have
Fresh out of the water, Beth’s survey of the prop didn’t uncover an obvious problem.
As with most unpleasant chores aboard Loki, the person who loses the tried and true game of Rock, Paper, Scissors would be the diver. a reset. Before we could truly relax, though, we needed to dive the prop and assess if something was wrapped around the propellor shaft. As with most unpleasant chores aboard Loki, the person who loses the tried and true game of Rock, Paper, Scissors would be the diver. Best out of three. Beth won the first round and I pulled off the improbable comeback. She would be going for a swim! She needed to dance into the wetsuit and mentally prepare for the dive, so I headed up to the marina office to pay the night’s moorage. When I returned, Beth was ready in the wetsuit and was looking very pensive about jumping in the cold water. As she steeled herself, half a dozen men in two fishing boats pulled up and wanted to give her pointers on going under the boat. She didn’t want to hear it. On went the mask and in went Beth. The cold water seeped into the suit and after a few quick breaths, she was ready to go under. She took a deep breath and down she went under Loki. I was surprised at how long she managed to stay down, especially LEFT: Logan reads to Solomon while underway. 48º NORTH
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Rounding Bickford Rock in a building breeze.
without a diving hood. Beth emerged 20 seconds later, took a big gasp of air and said nothing was wrapped on the prop, but she felt like she had the biggest ice cream headache. I asked her how the prop looked and she said everything seemed normal. The prop turned with no problem and there didn’t appear to be any nicks or dings on the blades. Very odd, or as Logan aptly put it, “It’s just Loki being Loki!” The next day, we pulled off the dock and headed north between Saunders and Meadow islands. I reluctantly pushed the throttle forward to 1800 rpms and there was one short clunk, but aside from that, Loki was behaving. Later, after hauling the boat out in Alaska to survey what had happened, we realized that the stationary blade on the prop’s line cutter had dislodged and was hitting the other blade, which was making that tremendous racket. We’re not sure why — perhaps it was old age, or maybe we had snagged a line. Either way, we needed a new sleeve to keep the two blades apart. Lesson learned: Never let the boat hear you say “easy.” It may have other plans
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Why it matters: Mike Miller holds a 100-ton captain’s license and has been sailing since he was little. He and Beth have been living aboard since 2007. They have two wonderful boys, Logan and Solomon, who have grown up on Loki and constantly teach them to live each day to the fullest. Follow their adventures at www.travelingloki.com.
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RACE WEEK ANACORTES CLASSIC PNW RACING WITH AN EPIC VENUE
by Ben Braden
I’m 16 years old, sitting below decks making ham and cheese sandwiches for the week while my buddy, Noj, drives us north into Saratoga Passage aboard a Santa Cruz 27, Sundown Express. We’re on our way to our very first Whidbey Island Race Week, and Mom even brought the Volkswagen Westfalia up for us to camp in at the marina. What an amazing experience. Racing every day of the week, volleyball and golf tournaments, El Toro racing around the marina at night. A Wednesday party at the Oak Harbor Yacht Club and Friday evening awards at the end of the week. I’ve never looked at a ham and cheese sandwich the same way since. Whidbey Island Race Week, started in 1983, moved from Oak Harbor to Anacortes in 2021. Held from June 20 to 24 this year, the event harkens back to those good old days and the memories we racers share. The city of Anacortes offers an amazing host venue that includes a plethora of bars and restaurants within walking distance of a world-class marina with new docks and enough depth for the big boats. Without the daily rum tent, 48º NORTH
competitors are left to enjoy the town, host dinners at their rentals, or even go for a hike in the morning or evening without thinking they are missing the party — rather, they can enjoy the vacation and all the area has to offer. Then there is the racecourse. I think fellow sailor Ian Beswick put it best when he said, “Motor out of the marina and across the bay, turn the corner and you’re instantly immersed in the majesty of the San Juans. Steep, rocky edges, forest-covered islands. It really gets you in it and away from it all at the same moment.” We were northeast of Guemes Island with 60-plus race boats on Monday morning, the first day of race week, in a light southeasterly. The clouds showed that a westerly from the nearby Strait of Juan de Fuca could push through and halfway through the first race it did, favoring those that read the conditions and set up their boats in the right spot. Race Week Anacortes 2022 began after a few days of “Juneuary” conditions from the south, so we expected the light and shifties before the pendulum swung back from the north. We
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A competitive start for the PHRF 1 fleet.
didn’t get much of anything Tuesday, but by Wednesday, the westerly pushed through strong in the afternoon, and Thursday and Friday brought us great northerly winds. The week ended with stellar conditions to get a total of nine races off for the full event and four races for the cruising class around various islands in the area. As for the fleets, this race week brought all kinds of boats. The one design classes were the J/70, J/80, Melges 24, and J/105 fleets. There were six different PHRF classes, with ratings ranging from 18 up to 168 and, yes, a cruising class with boats rated from 90 to 228. And this cruising class looked amazing. Racing up around Eliza Island and back, taking two laps around Vendovi and Jack islands, this class experienced the grandeur of the islands while testing their boats at race week — it’s hard to beat that! I was jealous at times when their course popped up on the board. It made me look at my trimmer and say, “Remember when we used to do that long course thing in Saratoga Passage back in the day?” One design may have changed the way we race in
most venues, but Race Week Anacortes offers a glimpse into the heyday of sailboat racing in the Pacific Northwest and a chance to revisit some of my favorite memories. A shout out to all the racers and to Race Week organizers. Top honors in each class went to: Melges 24, Rod Buck on Myst; J/105, John Atchison on Moose Unknown; J/80, Mike Kalahar on Litonya; J/70, Michael Breivik on Taz; PHRF 1, John Hoag on the 1D35 Shrek; PHRF 2, Kevin Welch on the J/111 Recon; PHRF 3, David Steffen on the Beneteau 36.7 Vitesse; PHRF 4, David Schutte on the J/109 Spyhop; PHRF 5, David Jackson on the Dash 34 Mad Dash; PHRF 5, Benjamin Braden on the Moore 24 More UffDa; PHRF Cruising, Ron Ernst on the Catalina 30 Papillon. Bravo Zulu, race week, Bravo Zulu. For full race week results, visit www.raceweekpnw.com.
Photos courtesy of Jan Anderson.
Spinnakers fly on a downwind leg through the islands.
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R2AK GLORY FOR TEAM PURE AND WILD
Sailing fast under full mainsail, staysail and asymmetrical spinnaker, Team Pure and Wild pushed toward the finish line in the late afternoon on Monday, June 20 with breaks of blue sky overhead. Just a few miles to the northwest in Ketchikan, Alaska, a bell was waiting to be rung, the 10 grand prize to be claimed and celebratory beers to be guzzled. Race to Alaska glory was theirs. The scene was captured on video by an R2AK media team in a chase boat and the song they chose to set that marvelous moment to on Instagram? Immigrant Song by Led Zeppelin. The volume on my phone was on high when the iconic drums of John Bohnam burst through, leading into Robert Plant’s unmistakable opening, “Ah-ahhh, ah! Ah-ahhh, ah!” It was audio-visual perfection. Man, I felt like I was there. There’s nothing quite like that feeling of sailing across the border at Dixon Entrance and into the channels leading to Ketchikan. But for everyone who throws their hat into the R2AK ring, the experience is different. Heck, for any team to make it to this point takes a seemingly 48º NORTH
Jonathan McKee, Matt Pistay, and Alyosha Strum-Palerm are all smiles after the finish. herculean effort. But to win the whole shabang takes a distinctive combination of factors: You need a fast boat. That boat needs to be sailed with exceptional skill, prudent seamanship and smart decision making. And — possibly most importantly — you need a heavy dose of good fortune to see you through to the end.
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Racing for SeaShare (seashare.org), a nonprofit that works with the U.S. seafood industry to distribute seafood to food banks nationwide, Team Pure and Wild combined the talents of sailors Jonathan McKee, Matt Pistay, and Alyosha StrumPalerm. The boat? McKee’s Paul Biekerdesigned Riptide 44 rocketship, dubbed AUGUST 2022
Team Pure and Wild on the home stretch with Ketchikan in their sights.
Dark Star. The good fortune? It’s been said in ocean sailing that luck favors the prepared, but in this version of R2AK, with literal rafts of logs plaguing teams at every tack and turn, it might not have mattered how prepared you were. Yet, part of Team Pure and Wild’s preparation was to make a crucial decision that aided in their victory — they rolled the dice and went outside into the Pacific Ocean. “We knew there would be more wind out in the ocean,” Jonathan McKee told me by phone, which data appeared to back up. “When we looked at the historical data prior to the race, the routing software told us that essentially 90% of the time it pays to go outside.” While teams on the inside were dodging logs, plowing into them or leaping off waves on top of them, Team Pure and Wild shook off a slow start out of the Strait of Juan de Fuca before making the most of a northwesterly breeze when it finally filled in. “The first seven hours were tough because we had adverse current and not much wind. We expected to be pretty far behind compared to the inside boats after the first few hours. The question onboard was, ‘Can we make it up?’” McKee said. By all accounts, beating up the west coast of Vancouver Island is no picnic, but the Riptide 44 with those three sailors aboard was probably the boat and team best suited to take that challenge head on 48º NORTH
and come out on top. Having completed the R2AK in 2018 as part of Team Wild Card and also cruised and raced on the west coast of Vancouver Island, I watched the tracker not only with excitement, but with a knowing perspective. And when I asked about the wind and sea state on the outside, it was pretty much what I expected. McKee added, “We had some pretty rough conditions about 50 to 100 miles south of the Brooks Peninsula. One of our team members wasn’t feeling well; we were essentially racing doublehanded for a while. It wasn’t easy.” The next challenge was to get around the infamous Cape Scott. I speculated in past R2AK musings that if an outside team could get to the top of Vancouver Island and through the notoriously weird wind and currents at Cape Scott, there was a solid chance they’d be homefree reaching to Bella Bella and then running for Ketchikan. Some form of that came to fruition — and it was quite entertaining to follow. McKee confirmed as much. “Nearing Cape Scott, we had 10 knots of breeze and things were pretty cruisy. Right when we got there, though, the wind died and the current was ripping against us and we struggled for about an hour to make it through to the new wind. Once we did, we had a nice night jib-reaching to Bella Bella — the second half with the spinnaker.” With my eyes alternating between
45
computer screen and phone, this was about the point where I knew these guys would take it. Beyond the factors of boat and team, I mostly believed this would be true because in analyzing the weather on Hecate Strait for the days ahead, it appeared they’d have the most pressure and the least amount of land standing in their way. At that point, several top teams on the inside had, sadly, bowed out, and the closest teams were many miles behind. After Bella Bella, the wind came up out of the south and southeast and Team Pure and Wild made a huge chunk of miles towards Ketchikan that night. “We reached out into Hecate Strait with the code zero and then put up the kite when we were able to fall off a bit,” McKee explained. “Then the wind increased to 25 knots during the night and the seas were pretty sporty for a while with big waves. We even had a high impact collision with a log … with no damage.” Nearing the border in Dixon Entrance, the winds went light and their progress slowed, he remembered. “The sea state here was bad, not much breeze with waves coming from the west and south. Finally, we got some southerly wind and had a fantastic sail to the finish.” Team Pure and Wild’s win was a feat that was not only fun to follow, but embodied the spirit of what the Race to Alaska is personally and as a community of racers. In McKee’s words, “It wasn’t just about the race itself. We were in it to have some of those transcendent experiences that you can only have at sea. And we did. We came away with respect for the beauty and power of the ocean, which is only reinforced when you’re out there doing it, living it. Also, it was really cool to take part in an event that brings so many boating cultures together — the rowing, sailing, adventure communities. We have so much respect for the people on all the other boats.” Indeed, I think we all do. Congratulations to Team Pure and Wild on an excellent race. Or, in the illustrious words of Robert Plant, “Ah-ahhh, ah! Ah-ahhh, ah!”
By Andy Cross. Photos by Thomas Hawthorne. AUGUST 2022
CLASSIFIEDS BOATS FOR SALE
BOATS FOR SALE $
199
, 50
0
DEEP KEEL SAGA 43 1998 Perry design with custom interior. Reconfigured as sloop for upwind work. Beautifully balanced sailer with a custom 8 ft. keel, motors easily @ 8 kts. Recent B&G instruments and isolation transformer. Discovery has served her original owners well as a NW cruiser and a wonderful live aboard. Monitor windvane with swing gate available. » Contact Michael Locatell • mlocatell@aol.com • (206) 459-0880 • $199,500
$
1,8
00
$
12 ,
50
0 $
HOME BUILT LONG ISLAND SHARPIE 24’ Home built by my brother-in-law in 2001. All marine plywood on the exterior covered with fiberglass. Cabin roof redone last year. Shoal draft boat that’s a cat catch rig designed by Bruce Kirby. Sails are basically brand new. Tohatsu motor has barely been used. Rebuilt carburetor two years ago. Trailer included » Contact Janiece Brown • (503)720-0096 • flylady21@icloud.com • $12,500
$
15 ,
BOATS FOR SALE
00
35
, 50
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1993 BENETEAU MOORINGS 352 2 private staterooms, Perkins Perama 30HP, anchor windlass and teak interior. Located at Elliott Bay Marina. » Contact Ven and Mary de Guzman • (425) 210-4229 • deguzman.mktplace@gmail.com • $35,000
$
35
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0
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WESTSAIL 32 New engine, tanks, sails, head, roller furling. Many extras. Motivated seller has reduced price to $ 35,000 » Contact Dan Thoreson • (206) 290-9660 • Danthoreson@gmail.com • $35,000 10' DAVIDSON MFG LTD FIBERGLASS SKIFF WITH TRAILER Great 10' Davidson MFG Ltd (#5241) fiberglass skiff (w trailer), 5' beam, drain plug, three cleats, oars and oarlocks, wood seats and trim, good condition. At Edmonds Marina. Email for more photos » Contact Ross Mayberry • (206) 735-9592 • rossmayberry13@gmail.com • $1,800
$
23
, 50
1938 32’ SALMON TROLLER - MOLLEB MolleB is a classic Frazier River gillnetter in great shape. Cedar over white oak. Cruises nicely at 7 knots at 2 gallons per hour. Beam 9.5 draft 4 ft. Gas engine Chrysler crown m47. New exhaust system and powered Plath anchor winch with CQR anchor » Contact Larry Wood • (541)233-9018 • Larryjwood@ gmail.com • $15,000
0
34' CUSTOM WOOD CUTTER Hull: Wood/Epoxy/WEST System. Mast, Boom: Sitka Spruce epoxied and glassed. Engine: Sabb diesel, 10hp. Propeller: 2-blade variable pitch. Tender: 10' rowing dinghy. Dulcinea II offers comfort, reliability, and easy-to-maintain systems. Recent survey. » Contact Donna Sassaman • (250) 661-2021 • dlsassaman@gmail.com • $23,500 (US) / $30,000 (CAN)
48º NORTH
$
5 ,7
50
THUNDERBIRD #1167 “Greybeard”, Ontario-built Thunderbird 26 #1167, Extensive race record (1st Toliva Shoals, numerous trophies), fully race rigged, North Sails, 3 chutes, Yamaha 6 hp., Great PHRF rating, cruise equipped… Iconic design, several active fleets in the area » Contact Mark Anderson • (253) 549-3822 • Bluesharbor1@gmail.com • $5,750
46
AUGUST 2022
BOATS FOR SALE
BOATS FOR SALE
1978 NORTH SEA 34 PILOTHOUSE Comfortable cruiser and NW veteran. Dual helms. Yanmar3GM 30 engine with Autoprop 2- 30 gal aluminum fuel tanks. Pressure hot and cold H20, propane oven, heater. engine heat, Newer 130% Genoa & Harken furling system. Main sail in good condition. Bruce anchor manual windlass. Bottom sider cockpit cushions. Radar & GPS. Moorage available. » Contact Douglas W Davidson • (425) 864-1955 • ddavidson@pumptechnw.com • $35,000
1966 CENTURY RESORTER 17 Mahogany inboard. Newish 383 (500hp). new upholstery. 5200 bottom w/glass-epoxy over. Serious inquiries only. Bainbridge Island. » Contact Jim Llewellyn • (206) 842-4552 • jim. llewellyn47@gmail.com • $18,500
$
$
12 5
,0 0
$
8
,0 0
0
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1985 CLASSIC GAFF RIGGED SCHOONER WILHELM H. STARCK McKie W. Roth Jr design. LOA 44,LOD 32’8,Beam 10’3” Full keel,Honduras mahogany planks on White Oak frame,Teak decking,Handsome interior. Sitka Spruce masts recently rebuilt. New standing rigging by Brion Toss. New Carol Hasse main sail. New Volvo Penta diesel 40 HP. Located in Everett, WA. Recent survey available. Needs some work, ideal for a wooden boat carpenter or student. » Contact Mary Wood • (360) 628-6949 • marydwood@gmail.com • $35,000
$
1 9,
00
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$
15 ,
00
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42' MONK DESIGNED MOTORSAILER Ketch built of yellow cedar at the Blanchard yard Seattle 1965. Powered by Cummins diesel JN-130-M. LOA 42.5 Beam 12.3 Draft 6.3 Net 14 tons Gross 20 tons Sail area 675 Fuel 140 gal Water 120 gal. This beautiful boat is a true motorsailer. Solid and roomy, good sails, runs quiet, has modern navigation electronics, all required equipment. Puget Sound royalty with original drawings and plans. » Contact Jeff Hoge • rumblefish53@gmail.com • $19,000
$
1975 SLOOP CUSTOM SAILBOAT 31' JOE TRUMBLY $15,000 or OBO MUST SELL. 1975 Sloop Custom Sailboat 31ft Joe Trumbly design built in Tacoma, WA only 2nd owner, have paper work on upgrades, maintenance and original paper work for the boat. Inboard 20hp Diesel motor rebuilt 2005, lots 0f extras. Bottom of boat repainted fall 2021. We have lived aboard the boat since 1994. The boat is located in Oak Harbor Marina, WA. CALL or TEXT » Contact Emily Gull • gullsway@hotmail.com • (805) 827-0771 • $15,000
48º NORTH
85
,0 0
00
14
6 ,0
10
9,0
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47
00
ALERION EXPRESS 28 Beautiful 2008 Alerion 28, “Alegria”, meticulously maintained, original owner, Flag Blue hull/Beige nonskid. All standard equipment plus Hoyt Jib Boom, varnished interior/exterior, sink, marine head, swim ladder, bow and stern pulpits with double lifelines, shorepower, second battery, upgraded winches, goldleaf name, etc. Located Pt. Richmond, CA » Contact Mike • lassto22@comcast.net • $109,000
0
BOB PERRY RELIANCE 37 Built to the highest standard and maintained as such this Perry Designed and Canadian Built boat is outfitted for long distance cruising in mind. Currently cruising back to Astoria from a solo winter cruise down to San Diego. New: Stainless NFM opening portlights, B&G Radar/Chartplotter, Isotherm 12V refrigerator/freezer, wind/spd/depth/autopilot/ hydrovane, D400 wind, H2O maker,sails, rigging. » Contact JC • happycampersailing@protonmail.com • (971) 344-7785 • $85,000
00
1985 SOVEREL 48 KETCH Rare opportunity to own 1985 Soverel 48' Staysail Ketch. Combines excellent Interior Accommodations with High Performance Bluewater Sailing. CAVU is fast, well-equipped, and offers unsurpassed storage; the perfect live-aboard cruiser. Bonus: 50 slip offered separately with unobstructed view of Mt. Baker. Contact me for more Photos & Specifications. » Contact Mark Fernandez • (206) 981-8745 • svcavu48@gmail.com • $146,000
$
CABO RICO 38 Due to health issues and aging crew, I reluctantly am selling my boat of 30 years. You will not find a better cruising sailboat. The boat is located in the Pacific Northwest, a rare find on the west coast. Contact me via email for specification s h e e t /p i c t u re s o r a n s we r a n y q u e s t i o n s . » Contact George P Leonnig • 1(503) 707-6062 • moctobi@gmail.com • $85,000
8 ,0
SMALL WOODEN SCHOONER Designed and built in 1948 by Dick Hershey, who worked at the Kettenburg yard in San Diego. 28 feet on deck, 36 feet overall, cypress planking on oak. Marconi mainsail, gaff-rigged foresail, self-bailing cockpit, decks glassed over plywood (originally canvas), iron fasteners, lead ballast keel, portapotty, wood burning stove. Volvo MD-2; VHF with handheld auxiliary unit. » Contact Joseph L Arnett • 1(360) 584-4768 • j.arnett@comcast.net • $8,000
0
1983 PASSPORT 40 World Capable Cruiser. Ready to take you cruising. Cutter Rigged. Oversized rigging and 2 large extra cockpit wenches. Large sail inventory, VHF, Icom HF, GPS, Aries Windvane, Dickenson heater, Autohelm autopilot, Furuno radar, 40 hp Yanmar engine. 3 burner stove/oven, refrig/freezer, Spectra watermaker. 2018, power train refurbished at $20K cost. Orcas Island, WA. $135,000(broker), $125,000(private). » Contact Tom Owens • (360) 632-8896 • svlandsend@yahoo.com • $125,000
0 5 ,0
35
BOATS FOR SALE
9, 5
00
1997 ENSENADA 25 GCold molded Ken Hankinson single chine design. Built by Dave Cross. Spar Tec double spreader mast and boom. North fully batten main and genoa. Other head sails included. Honda 8HP motor. Quality brand dual axle trailer. New gel cell battery. Knot meter, VHF, stereo and shore power with charger. Contact Dave Cross 253 732 7519. Email crosswins@rainierconnect.com. » Contact Dave E Cross • 1(253) 732-7519 • crosswins@rainierconnect.com • $9,500
AUGUST 2022
BOATS FOR SALE $
14 5
,0 0
BOATS FOR SALE
0 $
1987 AMEL MARAMU 46' Ketch rig. Roller furling main, mizzen, genoa. Fully equipped blue water cruiser. Well maintained by knowledgeablesailors.Verygoodcondition.Manyrecent upgrades. 2012 re-fit & re-power. Specs. & photos upon request. Serious inquiries please. Lying in Blaine, WA. » Contact Curt Epperson • (509) 687-6236 • sail2live@hotmail.com • $145,000
$
3, 5
00
$
12 ,
50
0
NORDIC FOLKBOAT RIGGED FOR CRUISING, WELL-EQUIPPED S/V Aldo, wooden Folkboat (US54) built in Denmark in 1958. Homeported by present owners in Sitka, Alaska since 1998. Rigged for cruising, very well equipped. Recent survey: Condition as very good, valued at $22,000 if located in Puget Sound or $12,500 (our asking price) at the the present Sitka homeport. For lots of photos and the equipment list, see Aldo’s website: www.folkboatak.com/ » Contact Larry Edwards • larryedwards@gci.net • $12,500
$
30
,0 0
0
1980 YAMAHA 30 SAILBOAT Yamaha owner for over 40 years. This my 3rd one. I have owned 10 years. Professionally maintained. Last month perfect survey. Boat would be able to take offshore tomorrow. I have sailed sistership to Hawaii and back. Great full quantum sail inventory. Newer replacement motor. Just launched fresh bottom paint. Shaft rebuild. 3 blade Max prop. New cushions. Turn Key. Bought New boat. » Contact Colin Taylor • (206) 612-0444 • autosea@ msn.com • $30,000
48º NORTH
,0 0
J/80 WANTED Looking for a J/80 sailboat. » Contact John Mitchell • johnfmitchell.75@gmail.com • (360) 373-5541 • $20,000-$35,000.
0
MARINE EQUIPMENT 1976 VALIANT 40 Bob Perry’s first design, the Valiant is a tried-andtrue bluewater cruiser. Halcyon (hull #136) is in great condition with upgraded systems and is fully outfitted for cruising. New Beta Marine 50hp engine (500 hours), max prop, new sails (2015) new batteries (2021), Monitor windvane, SSB, solar panels, wind generator and more. She is currently in French Polynesia, waiting to safely and comfortably carry her new owners anywhere in the world! » Contact Becca Guillote • becca.guillote@gmail.com • $68,000
$
28' WOOD FRIENDSHIP SLOOP FOR SALE Marie Anne, a Friendship Sloop; they originally were gaff rigged fish boats in Maine. Mahogany planking, two-cylinder Yanmar, sails, interior and cockpit cushions winches. The owner, now deceased, worked out of state for eleven years. The boat was in salt water storage, under cover in Seattle. This is a boat for someone who loves a historic type vessel and can fix her up., negotiable price. » Contact Paul Kelton • pkeltop@gmail.com • $3,500
68
WANTED
22
,0 0
YAGER SAILS & CANVAS NW Sail and Canvas Makers
YAGERSAILS.COM
FLYINGSAILS.NET
509.928.1964 Asymetrical drifters & spinnakers Classic Sails (Gaff, Sprit & Lugs) Performance furling & G-SpinnTM Sails Light Air Sails
0
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1983 UNITED OCEAN (FU HWA) TRAWLER PROJECT BOAT. This classic 38ft trawler has served us well, but now needs a new craftsperson owner who is comfortable with carpentry, ext. cosmetics, and general system maintenance. Vessel has a solid GRP hull, single diesel, full teak interior, and select system upgrades. Inherently capable live-aboard and seaworthy Salish Sea cruiser. Anacortes, WA. » Contact Mark Hagen • (360) 378-7676 • AnchorJax22@gmail.com • $22,000
PARTNERSHIP 36' GRAND BANKS OR SIMILAR VESSEL Experienced sailor desires one or two partners for purchase of 36' Grand Banks or similar cruiser. Also willing to buy into existing partnership or LLC. Would also consider lease arrangement. » Contact Tom Forbes • (206) 853-8811 • SkiPilot99@msn.com or TBForbes@msn.com
OLSON 34 PARTNERSHIP Half share in Olson 34. The boat is in excellent condition. Annual haul-outs, well maintained, good sails, Yanmar diesel, Garmin navigation, forced air heat. Currently moored at Skyline Marina, Anacortes. Partnership available beginning August 1. » Contact Eric Hansen • ehansen@whidbey.com • $30,000
48
AUGUST 2022
MARINE EQUIPMENT
INSTRUCTION
PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Full service rig shop serving Puget Sound
Cliff Hennen
(360) 207-5016 • (206) 718-5582 www.evergreenrigging.com
Tethys
Ave NW V E6327 SSSeaview E L M OV ING
98107 No ocean tooSeattle, big, no trip WA too small, no ship too large, no mast too tall, sail or power, we move them all!!!
Offshore Sailing for Women Nancy Erley, Instructor
MOORAGE
206.789.5118 nancy@tethysoffshore.com www.tethysoffshore.com
When you are(206) ready,789-7350 give us a call. Phone Professional service since 1967. Fax (206) 789-6392
CappyTom@aol.com • (206) 390-1596 email jen@48north.com
CLUBS
50' SLIP - SAN JUAN ISLAND 50' slip available immediately on San Juan Island (Friday Harbor). Hard to find location and slip. Great location, just 5 minute walk from ferry terminal in Friday Harbor. Long-term lease possibility. Photos available on request. First and Last month rent required. $600 per month. » Contact Mark scheerlaw10@gmail.com • (206) 240-6978 • $600.00
1945
2022
The Best Racing in the Northwest • On the Lake or Sound • Active Cruising • Reciprocal Rights Corinthian Yacht Club of Seattle 7755 Seaview Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98117 Phone (206) 789-1919 for information www.cycseattle.org
Nancy Anderson - Seattle 206/669-0329 • sureritesigns@gmail.com www.sureritesigns.com
1.5 inch =$60/month Business Classified ad 2016 March issue PROOF
SLOOP TAVERN YACHT CLUB
2442 NW Market St. #94, Seattle, WA 98107
“Established in Ballard since 1976” 90 Annual Dues - Reciprocal Moorages High quality sailing at the lowest cost
$
LIBERTY BAY MARINA
For more info call Mike at (206) 265-9459
40’ - 48’ - 60’ open slips. Great location in Poulsbo, WA Restrooms, Showers. For More Information 360-779-7762 or 360-509-0178
Gateway to the San Juans 34’ - 50’ slips for lease/purchase
Free Wifi • Pumpouts & Showers • Fuel, Store /Café
(360) 371-0440
www.semiahmoomarina.com 48º NORTH
Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons Spinnaker, Intro and Advance Racing Classes
CREATE. CRAFT. LEARN. Boatbuilding & woodworking classes for all skill levels at the Northwest Maritime Center.
Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear
206-782-5100
www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com 7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)
49
Learn more at nwmaritime.org
431 Water Street, Port Townsend, WA 360.385.3628 | info@nwmaritime.org AUGUST 2022
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54’ CUSTOM SCHOONER ’84 ................... $450,000 “FRANK EDMUND” A truly custom yacht! Built by the owner, a shipwright since 1957. Cold molded hull. Bow and stern thrusters for maneuverability.
46’ DUNCAN MARINE GARDEN 46 ’73...$89,000 39’ FREEDOM ’85 ............. $59,000 “INFINITY” Classic cruising ketch. A veteran “ENTROPHY” Sturdy lightweight hull for of long-distance cruises. Extensively great performance. Sail this cat ketch rig with minimal crew. Call to see! updated. Rare opportunity! ON M CH RI
“MANDOLIN” Meticulously maintained and “ZEPHYR” Perfect to race or cruise. A large upgraded. A must see ready to take you to cockpit lends itself well to entertaining. any port of your dreams. Nearly new transmission.
28’ BRISTOL CHANNEL CUTTER ’80...... $48,000 “COSMIC DANCER” Extensively rebuilt and upgraded. She is 95% ready to go to sea should her next owner decide to take her there! In Olympia.
48º NORTH
40’ TA SHING BABA/PANDA ’81 ...$135,000 38’ ERICSON 38 ’84 ..........$54,000
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51
THINKING OF SELLING YOUR BOAT? LET US HELP! Power or Sail, we have buyers waiting! Call: 619.224.2349 or email: info@yachtfinders.biz Call our Pacific NW area agent Dan: 360.867.1783
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2006 60’ Hatteras Convertible “Cool Heat”
2006 60’ Hatteras Convertible “Cool Heat” $1,100,000 $1,100,000
48º NORTH
2022 Sundancer 370
2022 Sundancer 370 Just Reduced Reduced $939,000 $939,000 Just
2020 BRABUS Shadow 900
2020 BRABUS Shadow 900 $679,000 $679,000
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2020 Blackfin 272DC 2020 Blackfin 272DC $229,000 $229,000 AUGUST 2022
quality yachts from swiftsureyachts.com Nautor Swan’s legendary craftsmanship and graceful lines are of a timeless pedigree, and Gusto is a prime example of what excellent care and attention to detail can do for a finely built yacht. Her quality joinery shines when you step below, sturdy teak handholds are generously placed, and an inviting layout is ideal for long days at sea or ultimate comfort at anchor. Capable of being fully crewed for offshore racing or easily cruised shorthanded, Gusto has the elements you need to do both. Improvements include two electric primary winches, teak decks, engine, standing rigging (2020), Dyneema running rigging, a full suit of sails in excellent condition, AIS, and watermaker, to name a few. The inventory of upgrades and maintenance shows that she has been kept to the highest standard, as a Swan such as this deserves. Gusto is a well-oiled machine in sail-away condition for wherever your sailing dreams may take you.
Gusto 1979 Swan 441 $179,000
– mo l ly h owe
price reduced
Brewer Cutter 35 • 2005 • $229,000
for august 2022 delivery
Tayana 47 • 1990 • $125,000
Amel 55 • 2018 • $1.2 million price reduced
New Allures 45.9 • 2022 • €770,000
Baltic 42 • 1982 • $175,000
Hinckley Sou’wester 42 • 1984 • $198,000
Outremer 42 • 2008 • $359,000
Swan 46 • 1978 • $175,000
Chuck Paine/Kelly Archer 80 • 2003 • $2.6 millon
64 Frers
53 Gorbon PH
50 Bestway
1978
$275,000 40 Ellis Custom
1990
inquire
1986
$124,000 36 Sabre 362
1998
$149,000
1928
$160,000 36 Pearson 36-2
1986
inquire
1976
$160,000 30 Henderson
2008
inquire 38 Beneteau 381
48 Monk
1964
46 Ker
2006 $249,000 32 Beneteau 323
46 Dream Boat 46 Cal 2-46
43 Koopmans
42 Passport
41 X Yacht 412
inquire 36 Grand Banks
1998 1991
1997
$349,000 27 Ranger Tug
1997
$150,000 24 Boston Whaler Vantage 2021
$150,000 25 Ranger Tug
$140,000
20066 $72,000
2001
1980
inquire
2020 2014
$29,000
$212,500
$124,500
$199,000
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Seattle, WA
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2023 Tartan 365 Anacortes, WA
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Kenyon Martin 858.775.5937
2009 Tartan 5300 $925,000 Rob Fuller 207.233.8846
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51' Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 '22............................Arriving Sold 47' Beneteau 473 '02 .........................................Sale Pending 46' Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 41' Beneteau 41.1 ......................................................... SOLD
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44' Gozzard '01 ................. $289,900 41' Beneteau 41.1 '17 ......... $274,900 41' Hunter 41 DS '05 ........... $149,900
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Boats are Selling FAST! QUALITY LISTINGS WANTED!
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54' Ocean Alexander 540 ..... $289,900 48' Cruisers Cantius '11 ...... $529,900 46' West Indies Heritage 46 '77 .... $74,900
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Pre-owned Boats
40' Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 40' Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 38' Sabre 38 MKII '90 ............ $99,950 35' Niagara 35 '81................ $49,900 35' Beneteau Oceanis 350 '90 ....$39,900 38' Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 38' Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold
48º
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If you're a sales professional wth a passion for boating, give us a call.
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WE’RE HIRING!
38' Beneteau 38 '14 ................................................. INQUIRE 35' O'Day 35'86 ..................................................Sale Pending 34' Beneteau Oceanis 34.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 33' Hunter 33 '05 ........................................................... SOLD
August 26-28 • Brownsville
30' Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 31' Beneteau 31 '10 .............. $89,900 19' Chris Craft Racing Runabout '50 .......................... $44,900
2476 Westlake Ave N. #101, Seattle, WA 98109 • (206) 284-9004 Open Monday - Saturday 10:00am 55 - 5:00pm • Sunday by appointment NORTH AUGUST 2022
MARINE SERVICENTER MARINE SERVICENTER Seattle San Diego Bellingham Yacht Sales since 1977 Yacht Sales since 1977
Just Arrived! Just Arrived!
Seattle San Diego Bellingham 206.323.2405 619.733.0559 360.770.0180 206.323.2405 619.733.0559 360.770.0180 info@marinesc.com • www.marinesc.com info@marinesc.com • www.marinesc.com
2023 Jeanneau SO 380 #77291: $338,955 • SAVE $28,070 2023 Jeanneau SO 380 #77291: $338,955 • SAVE $28,070
Arrives ArrivesNovember November
SUN ODYSSEY
Dealer of the Year Dealer of the Year ‘21 • ‘20 • ‘19 • ‘16 ‘21 • ‘20 • ‘19 • ‘16
Just Arrived! Just Arrived!
2023 Jeanneau SO 410 #76461: $398,813 • SAVE $37,217 2023 Jeanneau SO 410 #76461: $398,813 • SAVE $37,217
JustArrived! Arrived! Just
349
SUN ODYSSEY Edition 349 Limited Limited Edition
2023 Jeanneau 2023 Jeanneau349 349Limited LimitedEd. Ed.#77410: #77410: $239,870 $239,870••SAVE SAVE $17,250 $17,250
Arrives ArrivesDecember December
2023 JeanneauSO SO490 490#77491: #77491: $649,873 $649,873••SAVE SAVE $20,867 $20,867 2023 Jeanneau Arrives October Arrives October
ReadySpring Spring2023 2023 Ready
2023 Jeanneau Yacht5151-6 6SOLD! SOLD! 2023 Jeanneau Yacht #76709: $798,790 SAVE$90,374 $90,374 #76709: $798,790 • •SAVE
New Listing New Listing
2010 Jeanneau 50DS • $349,500 2010 Jeanneau 50DS • $349,500
2019 Jeanneau Sun Fast 3600 • $239,000 2019 Jeanneau Sun Fast 3600 • $239,000
Lagoon4242- Arrives - ArrivesJuly July‘23‘23 Lagoon
Take Delivery forfor Details! Delivery ininthe thePNW, PNW,France, France,ororCaribbean Caribbean– Call – Call Details! Lagoon 67MY • 78MY Lagoon Models: Models:40 40••42 42••46 46••51 51••55 55••6565• •77• 77• 67MY • 78MY Ready ReadyJune June2023 2023
2023Jeanneau Jeanneau Yacht Yacht 60 11 SOLD! 2023 60 --Around SOLD! ••Inquire Inquire Scow Bow Bow Hull Hull & & Walk Walk Scow Around Decks! Decks!
Reduced Reduced
2018 Jeanneau Yacht 58 • $798,500 2018 Jeanneau Yacht 58 • $798,500
2023 Jeanneau JeanneauSO SO440 440#76462: #76462:$508,460 $508,460• •SAVE SAVE $42,410 2023 $42,410
2023 - 1- 1 SOLD! • Inquire 2023Lagoon Lagoon4646 SOLD! • Inquire Owners and More! OwnersVersion, Version,Flybridge Flybridge and More!
Reduced Reduced
2006 Beneteau 51 • $199,900 2006 Beneteau 51 • $199,900
Reduced Reduced
2015 Jeanneau SO 469 • $349,000 2015 Jeanneau SO 469 • $349,000
New Listing New Listing
1977 Ericson 39-B • $49,500 1977 Ericson 39-B • $49,500
1980 Alden Sky 51 • $109,500 1980 Alden Sky 51 • $109,500
New Listing New Listing
LISTINGS LISTINGSWANTED! WANTED! WE WEGET GETRESULTS! RESULTS!
See Your Boat on the Back Page of 48° North! See Your Boat on the Back Page of 48° North! 50' Formosa 41 Ketch ‘78 ............ $49,500 50' Formosa 41 Ketch ‘78 ............ $49,500 38' C&C 38 ‘86 ................... Sale Pending 38' C&C 38 ‘86 ................... Sale Pending 37' Cherubini 37 ‘84 New Listing $36,500 Cherubini ‘84 New Sale Listing $36,500 34'37'Catalina ‘8937 .................. Pending 34' Catalina ‘89 .................. Sale Pending 31' Beneteau ‘10 ................ Sale Pending Beneteau ‘10 ................ Sale$17,500 Pending 28'31'Islander 28 ‘77....New Listing 28' Islander 28 ‘77....New Listing $17,500
2014 Jeanneau SO 469 • $379,000 2014 Jeanneau SO 469 • $379,000
New Listing New Listing
1990 Island Packet 35 • $99,500 1990 Island Packet 35 • $99,500
Dan Krier Dan Krier
Tim Jorgeson Jeff Carson Tim Jorgeson Jeff Carson
Curt Bagley Jon Knowles Greg Farah Curt Bagley Jon Knowles Greg Farah