Getting into and around in russia ebook by 56thparallel

YOUR GUIDE TO

IN RUSSIA

YOUR GUIDE TO GETTING INTO AND AROUND IN RUSSIA Gone are the days of Russia being seen as remote and inaccessible. As the country continues to welcome record numbers of tourists, it’s now easier than ever to go almost anywhere in Russia your heart desires. Moscow’s three international airports make it one of the most important hubs servicing Europe and Asia, while other major tourist destinations, from St Petersburg in the north to Irkutsk in southern Siberia, are being serviced by more and more international flights every season. And, if you have the time, a penchant for adventure and a thirst for incredible scenery, you can travel to Russia overland – the legendary Trans-Siberian Railway is the ultimate train trip connecting Russia’s Asian and European regions. Once you’ve arrived in Russia, your options for getting around will depend largely on where you end up. The larger cities offer an array of transport options, while moving through remote destinations will require some advanced planning, or the services of a specialist tour company. This guide will take you through some of the most popular and practical ways to enter Russia, and how to make your way around this vast country, from the city to the countryside and beyond.

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SECTIONS WITHIN THIS EBOOK GETTING THERE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 4 Getting to Russia by plane - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 5 Getting to Russia by train from Europe - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 7 Trans-Siberian & Trans-Mongolian Railway - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8 Arriving in Russia by bus - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 9 Self-driving - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -9 GETTING AROUND - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 10 Public transport in Moscow - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -12 Public transport in St Petersburg - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -14 Getting around in other cities - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -15 LONG DISTANCE TRAVEL IN RUSSIA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 16 Domestic flights - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -17 Trains - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 17 Buses - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 17 Private transport hire - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 18 Boating, cruising , kayaking and rafting - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -18 Hiking, cycling and horseback riding - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -19 ADDITIONAL RESOURCES - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 20

Call us on 1300 742 374 (toll free from Australia) or +61-2-8221-88-59 from the rest of the world, or visit our website www.56thparallel.com

GETTING THERE

Call us on 1300 742 374 (toll free from Australia) or +61-2-8221-88-59 from the rest of the world, or visit our website www.56thparallel.com

GETING TO RUSSIA BY PLANE

MOSCOW The vast majority of international visitors arrive in Russia by plane, flying into one of Moscow’s three international airports. With a huge number of airlines now flying to Moscow, airfares are quite competitive, so keep your eye out for exceptional deals. You can fly into Moscow on a non-stop or onestop flight from almost every major city in Europe, and there are direct flights on Aeroflot from New York, Los Angeles and Miami. For visitors from Australia and New Zealand; Bangkok, Dubai and Abu Dhabi provide convenient stopovers.

ST PETERSBURG Pulkovo Airport is St Petersburg’s international airport. It connects with most major international airports in Europe as well as transport hubs in the Middle East, Seoul and Beijing. For many visitors heading to St Petersburg, it’s often more practical and cheaper to fly into Moscow and take a domestic flight (1 hour) or train (4 hours) to St Petersburg.

of winter activities are available on the lake and its surrounds, including ice skating, cross-‐ country skiing, dog sledding and ice fishing

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OTHER MAJOR AIRPORTS For most other destinations in Russia, catching a domestic flight from Moscow or St Petersburg will give you the most flexibility. Vladivostok (the start point of the Trans-Siberian railway to Moscow) has a mid-sized international airport mainly servicing flights from North East and South East Asia. If you’re intending to visit Siberia and don’t want to fly to Moscow first, its relative proximity to mainland China means that almost all international airports in Siberia have regular, or seasonal flights to and from Beijing. Novosibirsk, Siberia’s largest city, is becoming an international transit hub, with S7 offering direct flights to and from Frankfurt, Dubai, Hong Kong and Bangkok and many other hubs both in Europe and Asia. S7 have recently opened up direct flights from Bangkok to Krasnoyarsk and Irkutsk, and between Hong Kong and Irkutsk. Korean Air has introduced twice weekly flights from Seoul-Incheon to Irkutsk.

of winter activities are available on the lake and its surrounds, including ice skating, cross-‐ country skiing, dog sledding and ice fishing

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GETTING TO RUSSIA BY TRAIN FROM EUROPE Europe’s excellent high speed rail network makes travelling to Russia by train remarkably fast and easy. It’s possible to get from London to Moscow by rail (with a change of trains in France, Belgium or Germany) in 48 hours. The Eurail website (www.eurail.com) has the most comprehensive guide to train networks in Europe. Europe’s long distance trains are super modern and comfortably appointed, allowing for a good night’s sleep on overnight journeys.

The most popular train journey from western Europe to Moscow is also one of the continent’s longest – the overnight trip from Paris to Moscow traverses a staggering 3,177km and takes roughly 38 hours. You can board the train at any of its stops, including Frankfurt, Berlin, Warsaw and Brest – just make sure you have your Russian visa with you prior to boarding. The Paris-Moscow overnight service runs all year. During the summer it runs five times a week and during the winter three times a week. Bookings are essential.

Other cities that offer direct train travel to Moscow include Amsterdam, Minsk, Riga and Tallinn. Trains also run from Helsinki to St Petersburg and Moscow. From Stockholm, you can catch a ferry to Helsinki or Tallinn and then continue by train to St Petersburg or Moscow.

of winter activities are available on the lake and its surrounds, including ice skating, cross-‐ country skiing, dog sledding and ice fishing

Call us on 1300 742 374 (toll free from Australia) or +61-2-8221-88-59 from the rest of the world, or visit our website www.56thparallel.com

TRANS-SIBERIAN & TRANS-MONGOLIAN RAILWAY The Trans-Siberian Railway has a long, romantic history as one world’s most magnificent train journeys. The entire route, from Moscow to Vladivostok (9,258km away) also holds the distinction of being the longest single train journey on earth, taking seven days to complete. Most travellers start their overland journey in European Russia, typically departing from Moscow. The train takes just under two days to reach Ekaterinburg and Novosibirsk from Moscow, two days to reach Krasnoyarsk and four days to get to Irkutsk and Lake Baikal region. It reaches its final destination, Vladivostok, in just over six days. Another option is to begin your journey in China (Beijing) or Mongolia (Ulan-Bator) along the Trans-Mongolian Railway, which meets up with the Trans-Siberian in Ulan-Ude in south eastern Siberia. Both routes offer an incredibly diverse array of scenery, from the vast forests, piercing mountains and bustling industrial cities of western Russia to the stark beauty of the Gobi Desert and nomad pastures of the Mongolian steppe. It’s possible to break up your journey with overnight or multi-day stops. There’s no “hop on hop off option”, but you can choose your stopover destinations when you book your ticket and berths on multiple trains will be reserved for you. Travel on sleeper berths on Trans-Siberian railway is comfortable (although not luxurious) and incredibly inexpensive considering the enormous distances covered.

of winter activities are available on the lake and its surrounds, including ice skating, cross-‐ country skiing, dog sledding and ice fishing

Call us on 1300 742 374 (toll free from Australia) or +61-2-8221-88-59 from the rest of the world, or visit our website www.56thparallel.com

ARRIVING IN RUSSIA BY BUS Bus travel from Europe to Russia isn’t as popular as train travel due to generally being much slower. However, buses can offer a more budgetconscious and still quite comfortable option for getting into Moscow/St Petersburg. There are regular bus connections to Russia from many major cities in France, Germany, Holland, Spain, Portugal, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Great Britain and Switzerland, and most of the major Eastern European cities.

SELF-DRIVING The last common option for entering Russia overland is by driving there yourself. You’ll generally need your own vehicle do this – you need a Temporary Permit from customs to be able to drive a car or motorcycle in Russia, and it’s unlikely that one would be issued for a rental vehicle. To drive in Russia, you’ll need your passport, Russian visa, your drivers’ license, an international driving permit, your vehicle’s registration documents and third-party insurance valid in Russia. This can be purchased at petrol stations just before the border or, at the local office or affiliate of a Russian insurance company such as Ingosstrakh or Rosno. If everything checks out, you’ll be issued a Temporary Permit by Customs at the border crossing, usually valid for 10 days. The permit can be extended at local customs offices throughout Russia. A word of warning: Driving in Russia is VERY different to driving in most of Europe. While the road rules are in theory are much the same, they are not particularly well observed by most people, and Russian motorists have a reputation for aggressive driving. Driving in big cities like Moscow can present chaotic conditions and notorious traffic jams, while roads in rural areas are often in poor condition. We do not recommend driving in Russia unless you are already familiar with the road and traffic conditions there.

untry skiing, dog sledding and ice fishing

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GETTING AROUND

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Russia is big, big BIG. As the largest country on earth, travelling around Russia often means covering enormous distances. This is one of the major advantages of using a reputable tour company for travelling in Russia, as they’re always able to pre-arrange the most efficient means of transport for you. If you’re planning on visiting more distant and remote regions, such as the Siberian wilderness, a group tour is often the only affordable option, unless you have the funds to charter private multi-day 4WD excursions, sailing expeditions or helicopter flights!

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PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN MOSCOW METRO Moscow is a huge metropolis with a well-developed public transport system. The city is famous for its metro system, whose beautiful underground stations are tourist attractions in themselves. The Moscow Metro network is extensive, comfortable, cheap and efficient. It can get quite crowded at peak times however – up to nine million people per day ride the metro! However, during rush hours (8am to 11am and 5pm to 8pm) it’s a much better option than tackling Moscow’s infamous aboveground traffic jams. The metro service begins at 6am and the last trains of the night depart at around 1am. The layout and colour-coded Moscow Metro system is intuitive and easy to navigate. No signs are in English though, so bring an English map along with you. Magnetic tickets are sold at ticket booths at every station. Buying a multiple-ride ticket saves you the hassle of queuing up every time.

BUSES, TROLLEYBUSES AND TRAMS Almost every street in Moscow is serviced by a bus or tram route. Some streets have overhead wires to accommodate electric trolleybuses, while others are fitted with tram tracks. One trip costs 28R ($1USD) making buses, trolleys and trams a super inexpensive way to see the city. The #7 trolleybus route is the most convenient to explore the major sites of Moscow. It runs from the Victory Park (Park Pobedy) to the Stone Bridge (Kamennyï Most) near the Kremlin, following the riverbank and up to Sparrow Hills (Vorobyovy Gory).

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TAXIS Many unofficial cabs, known as ‘gypsy taxis’ cruise around looking for fares, but we recommend sticking to the official taxis, recognisable by their chequerboard logo on the side and/or a small green light in the windscreen. Moscow taxi drivers almost never use metres (even if they have them fitted) so you’ll have to negotiate a fare first. Bargaining is a must, and even then, taxi rides tend to be on the expensive side, best reserved for when public transport isn’t a convenient option.

MARSHRUTKA These mini-buses are found in both Moscow and St Petersburg. They travel along fixed routes but passengers can wave them down anywhere, like taxis. You pay immediately (usually around 30R) once you get inside. Tell the driver ‘stop’, or to be more polite, ‘ostano`vite po`zhaluista’ (stop please) as you approach your stop. Marshrutkas aren’t generally favoured by tourists, as it’s not easy to work out where they’re headed, unless you can ask in Russian.

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PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN ST PETERSBURG

METRO The St Petersburg underground metro has the distinction of being the deepest in the world. The four line system is quite extensive and has a colour-coding system that makes it easy to follow – although a map in English and Cyrillic will help you out no-end, as there no signs in English at the stations. A single ride is the same price (25R), no matter how far you’re going, and you can also buy multi-ride cards which provide a small discount. Either way, the metro system is dirt cheap, fast and efficient.

CANALS & RIVER TRANSPORTATION In the summer months between 8am and 8pm, aquabuses (water taxis) ferry tourists and commuters alike across the Gulf of Finland and the Neva River into St Petersburg’s network of canals, connecting downtown with some outlying areas of St Petersburg. A ride on any of the four fixed routes give you the chance to admire some of the city’s most beautiful landmarks from a unique perspective. In season, dozens of tour boats, from small private launches to luxury cruisers with meals, drinks and live bands on board take tourists out on the water to some of the most scenic spots along the waterfront. Night cruises can be particularly romantic.

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GETTING AROUND IN OTHER CITIES

Only Moscow and St Petersburg have metro systems, but the streets of most other large Russian cities are regularly plyed by bus buses, marshrutkas and taxis. A lack of Russian can make understanding bus routes and the like confusing, if not impossible. The best way to sightsee in and around most Russian towns and cities is via an organised day trip, or as part of a longer guided tour. Of course, you always have the option to explore on foot, then jump in a taxi back to your hotel if you end up over-tired.

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LONG DISTANCE TRAVEL

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DOMESTIC FLIGHTS The vast distances between many major destinations in Russia means taking domestic flights is often a necessity when traversing different regions of Russia, unless you have considerable amounts of time to spare. There are over 1,200 airports throughout Russia, so chances are wherever you want to go, it’s at least partly reachable by plane! Aeroflot and S7 (Siberian Airlines) are the biggest domestic airlines, and there are others such as Russia Airlines, Utair and Transaero.

TRAINS The Trans-Siberian Railway in the most famous long distance rail journey in Russia but with over 85,000km of railway lines criss-crossing the country, train travel is an inexpensive and often breathtakingly beautiful way to reach countless awesome destinations within Russia. The network is run by Russian Railways, and its English language website (eng.rzd.ru) includes timetables and a network map. Buying tickets is best done at the station. English is rarely spoken, but if you simply let them know your intended destination (a map in Russian can be a big help), purchasing tickets rarely poses any difficulties.

BUSES Most tourists prefer the relative speed and reliability of Russia’s long distance trains, but buses can be a fun and interesting way to travel between smaller towns. In some regions, such as much of central and northern Siberia, bus travel may be the only public transport option you have. Most cities have a main intercity bus station with timetables posted up outside. Tickets are sold either in advance at the station, or once you get on the bus.

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PRIVATE TRANSPORT HIRE Many transport companies in Russia’s major cities can organise a private vehicle and driver to take you to most destinations within Russia, giving you the freedom to pick and choose exactly when and where you go. However, unless you have a large group able to share expenses, this can be an extremely expensive endeavour, with long distances to cover, fuel costs and meal and accommodation expenses for your driver to weigh up. A more affordable option is to book a trip with a tour company, offering private transportation within a tour group.

BOATING, CRUISING, KAYAKING AND RAFTING With over 37,653 of coastline to explore, endless rivers and of course, the extraordinary Lake Baikal, Russia is made for people who love nothing more than a life on the water. Tour companies like 56th Parallel are the best way to connect with reputable boating, cruising, kayaking and rafting companies in Russia. Sail over the mesmerising deep blue waters of Baikal, or pit yourself again the wild coastline of Kamchatka by kayak with whales and sea lions for company. For an even more remote adventure, forge your way into the Siberian forest’s most and far-flung and enchanting fishing spots by motorised raft.

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HIKING, CYCLING AND HORSEBACK RIDING There are countless roads and forested trails throughout Russia that offer spectacular opportunities for long distance hiking, cycling and horse riding. Remember, much of Russia is remote, with few human settlements, rugged terrain and in winter, the possibility of heavy snows. We strongly recommend travelling with a guide and the appropriate navigational and safety equipment if you intend to hike, bike or horse ride over multiple days in rural Russia.

56th Parallel offer organised hiking and camping trips to stunning destinations like the Sayan Mountains, and mountain biking adventures on Lake Baikal’s Olkhon Island. For an unforgettable, uniquely Siberian experience, we can also arrange custom trips riding with the nomadic Turkic horsemen in the stunning Altai Mountains region.

Call us on 1300 742 374 (toll free from Australia) or +61-2-8221-88-59 from the rest of the world, or visit our website www.56thparallel.com

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

Call us on 1300 742 374 (toll free from Australia) or +61-2-8221-88-59 from the rest of the world, or visit our website www.56thparallel.com

FLIGHTS The Kayak (www.kayak.com.) website and app are among the best for finding great deals on flights, the option of having price alerts e-mailed to you daily or weekly. The websites of the major airlines in Russia, Aeroflot (www.aeroflot.com) and S7 (www.s7.ru) are worth keeping an eye on as well.

TRAINS The independent Seat61 website (www.seat61.com) is a goldmine of information and resources on train travel in Russia and elsewhere.

PRIVATE TRANSPORT Visit the 56th Parallel website (www.56thparallel.com) for detailed info about how we travel around Russia on our small group and private tours. We can organise private transport to virtually any destination in Russia as well as hiking, horse riding, cycling and boating expeditions.

Call us on 1300 742 374 (toll free from Australia) or +61-‐2-‐8221-‐88-‐59 from the rest of the world, or visit our website www.56thparallel.com