A TRAVELLER’S GUIDE TO
RUSSIA
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A TRAVELLER'S GUIDE TO ST PETERSBURG Few cities have the ability to stir the imagination like St. Petersburg. With its postcard perfect European streets, majestic palaces and world-class museums and theatres, it’s no wonder St Petersburg is Russia’s most visited tourist destination. St Petersburg is a thriving metropolis, home to around 4.6 million inhabitants and so packed full of world-class establishments that UNESCO declared the historic centre a World Heritage Site. With hundreds of prominent museums, cathedrals, sculptures, squares, and places of interest to explore, a trip to the Russian city will prove full of cultural discoveries. With so many sights to see in St. Petersburg, navigation around Russia’s cultural capital is made easier by some simple planning, as the huge array of things to see and do is enough to overwhelm even the most seasoned traveler. This guide aims to give a brief introduction to first time travellers to Russia’s most fascinating cultural hotspot – including when to go, what to see, and how to get around while in St. Petersburg.
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SECTIONS WITHIN THIS EBOOK St Peterburg for beginners -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 4 When to visit St Petersburg -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 5 Highlightes of St Petersburg -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐6 Getting In and Around -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 15 Dining and nighlife in St Petersburg-‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐18 Shopping in St Petersburg -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 23
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ST PETERSBURG FOR BEGINNERS
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WHEN TO VISIT ST PETERSBURG Despite being the world’s most northerly large city, St Petersburg’s coastal location by the Baltic Sea means it never really gets that cold – at least by Russian standards! Even in deepest winter, temperatures rarely drop below -10ºC. While the days are short and there’s little sunshine in winter, the sight of this most beautiful of cities covered in snow is truly magical. The streets, squares and cathedrals come alive with celebrations over Christmas. Fireworks are a highlight over the January new year period, but many businesses closes during the first half of the month. Spring arrives and temperatures rise to above freezing by April. Late April through to June days reach around 15 ºC. There’s less rain and humidity compared to summer and hotel are generally on “shoulder” rates. July and August are the warmest months and the most popular with tourists, with temperatures climbing to between 20 and 25 ºC. Hotel rates tend to be highest at this time of year, and tourist sites more crowded. of winter activities are available on the lake and its surrounds, including ice skating, cross-‐ country skiing, dog sledding and ice fishing
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HIGHLIGHTES OF ST PETERSBURG
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HERMITAGE The city of St Petersburg is overflowing with cultural treasures, but the State Hermitage Museum undoubtedly tops the list. Built between 1754 and 1762 for Empress Elisabeth (the daughter of Peter the Great), the lavish, 1,057 room palace on the Neva River served as the winter residence for the famously extravagant rulers of the Russian Empire. Today, the Winter Palace houses the largest art gallery in Russia and one of the most important collections of art in the world. The Hermitage boasts nearly 3 million exhibits, covering a diverse array of art and artefacts, from Ancient Egypt to early 20th century Europe. Some of the world’s greatest works of art have a permanent home here, including pieces by Leonardo, Michelangelo, Raphael and Titian, a superb collection of Rembrandts and Rubens, many French Impressionist works by Renoir, Cezanne, Manet and Monet, several sculptures by Rodin and the paintings of Van Gogh, Matisse and Gaugin.
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MARIINSKY THEATRE This exquisite classical theatre is the home base of the world famous Kirov Ballet and Opera company. A visit here is a must, even if only to take in the spectacular interiors, but to truly revel in the St Petersburg experience, visitors should line up tickets to an evening performance. Tickets can be bought online through the Mariinsky website, or through your tour operator or hotel concierge. The performances, staging, acoustics and atmosphere are all exquisite, and uniquely Russian.
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CATHERINE PALACE, PUSHKIN The nearby town of Pushkin is home to Tsarskoe Selo (Tsar’s village), one of Saint Petersburg’s premier attractions. Amid the immaculately landscaped parks and gardens you’ll find the baroque Catherine Palace, a dazzling testament to Catherine’s love of luxury and royal excess. Envision Catherine strolling with her beloved dogs through acres of private gardens, where remarkable structures like the Marble Bridge, the Dutch Admiralty and the Creaking Pagoda were constructed for her amusement. Nearby is the comparatively modest neoclassical Alexander Palace, whose tumultuous history paints a fascinating portrait of the Romanov family.
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KAZAN CATHEDRAL Also known as the ‘The Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan,’ the dome-shaped Kazan Cathedral was completed in 1818. Modelled after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, the cathedral is built to a magnificent scale and boasts a stone colonnade which encircles a garden and central fountain. Its north entrance is located on the famous Nevsky Prospekt so it’s an easy landmark to spot. The cathedral’s interior features many sculptures and historical icons worth seeing, crafted by some of Russia’s all-time great artists.
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PETERHOF Once the opulent summer resort of the Romanovs, the World Heritage listed Peterhof is a huge open air museum and a testament to Peter the Great’s contribution to the city’s development. Known as the ‘Russian Versailles’ this stunning collection of palaces just outside St Petersburg on the Gulf of Finland warrants a full day trip. Marvel at the brilliance of the 18th century architects and artists who designed the Grand Palace, the Lower Gardens and some 150 stunning fountains on the palace grounds.
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KRONSTADT A charming municipal town in the gulf of Finland and St. Petersburg’s main seaport, just 45 mins from the city centre. The historic downtown of Kronstadt is included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites and is well known for its defensive significance in war history, proving an important lost-lasting symbol of Russia’s legacy. Connected to the city, Kronstadt includes defensive structures, architectural ensembles and province houses dating back to the 18th century. You’ll be charmed by its many architectural monuments and the panoramic view of the gulf of Finland from its shores.
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SAINT ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL Saint Isaac’s Cathedral is the largest Russian Orthodox Church in St. Petersburg and is wellrenowned for its famous gold-plated dome and Late Neoclassical design, faced with gray and pink stone. The Cathedral currently operates as a museum and a climb of 300 steps through the colonnade of the Cathedral offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city. There is still worship in the cathedral today however it is reserved for one side of the chapel only.
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PETER AND PAUL FORTRESS The Peter and Pauls Fortress was founded in 1703 and is the second tallest building in St. Petersburg. Linked to the city’s rich and fascinating history, including the Romanov dynasty, this fortress is home to the graves of nearly every Russian ruler since Peter the Great. Architecturally the fortress marks a radical departure from the traditional Russian Orthodox churches, having being built in an early Baroque style. Located near the northern bank of the Neva River, the Peter and Paul fortress was the city’s main cathedral until Saint Isaac’s Cathedral was built around 150 years later.
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GETTING IN AND AROUND
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METRO The St Petersburg underground metro has the distinction of being the deepest in the world. The four line system is quite extensive and has a colourcoding system that makes it easy to follow – although a map in English and Cyrillic will help you out no-end, as there no signs in English at the stations. A single ride is the same price (25R), no matter how far you’re going, and you can also buy multi-ride cards which provide a small discount. Either way, the metro system is dirt cheap, fast and efficient.
CANALS & RIVER TRANSPORTATION In the summer months between 8am and 8pm, aquabuses (water taxis) ferry tourists and commuters alike across the Gulf of Finland and the Neva River into St Petersburg’s network of canals, connecting downtown with some outlying areas of St Petersburg. A ride on any of the four fixed routes give you the chance to admire some of the city’s most beautiful landmarks from a unique perspective. In season, dozens of tour boats, from small private launches to luxury cruisers with meals, drinks and live bands on board take tourists out on the water to some of the most scenic spots along the waterfront. Night cruises can be particularly romantic.
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TRAMS & TROLLEYBUSES Trams and trolleybuses offer a pleasant and extremely inexpensive way to see the city, but only a few lines are convenient for hotels and tourist sights. Two lines worth trying are the #14 tram, which runs from the Mariinsky Theatre up through the centre of town and across the Neva, and the #1 tram, which runs through Vasilevsky Island, including a stop just outside the Vasileostrovskaya metro station.
TAXIS
As in Moscow, there are plenty of unofficial ‘taxis’ skulking around. Using an official taxi is safer and you can usually negotiate a fairer price. Unfortunately, official taxis aren’t particularly common, except in the busier shopping and nightlife districts.
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DINING AND NIGHTLIFE
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DINING IN ST PETERSBURG Whereas the Moscow eating out scene trends towards cosmopolitan, international and upmarket, St Petersburg’s dining set is more firmly rooted in tradition. It’s a relatively easy task to find places serving truly authentic, time-honoured Russian cuisine, in a relaxed and convivial atmosphere. St Petersburg has plenty to suit every budget, from stately fine dining restaurants to hip cafes and uniquely Russian fast food options, often open 24 hours a day. The main St Petersburg speciality is bliny – delicate, flavoursome crepes or pancakes served with an endless variety of fillings. Traditional favourite fillings include forest mushrooms, minced meat and onions and luxurious caviar, as well as sweet bliny served with honey, jam and cream. Restaurants serving excellent European and international cuisine continue to crop up as St Petersburg’s vibrant dining scene matures and expands. A cheap meal can be had in St Petersburg for around 400 rubles. Mid-range restaurants offer measl from between 400 to 1200 rubles, while a perfectly crafted dish at one of the city’s elegant fine diners can easily set you back over 1800 rubles. A few of our suggestions:
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TEPLO «Teplo» is the Russian word for “warmth”, hinting at the cosy living room atmosphere of this quirky, relaxed and friendly eatery in the historic city centre. Think homely furniture, couches and blankets, an open fireplace and cuddly Russian soft toys for décor. The portions are generous, the prices are reasonable and the cooking shows off the best of traditional Russian comfort food – fresh baked pastries, smoked salmon in savoy cabbage, roast chicken, beef stroganoff and delicious house-made cakes.
MANSARDA With a stunning view on the Dome of Saint Isaac’s Church, situated in the historical centre, the Mansarda restaurant is a sleek location with a variety of cuisines, among them, the Italian one (the chef is Italian, from Sardinia), all realised with taste and the highest level of quality.
VODKA ROOM NO1 This charming bar-restaurant showcases Russian cuisine from different historical periods. The restaurant’s beautifully conceived interiors recreate the atmosphere of a late 19th century public house, with bent wood chairs, antique sideboards, lampshades and quaint traditional table settings. It’s the perfect place to try classic cuisine including dishes made from Lake Baikal fish, pirozhki (savoury puff pastries) and hearty roast meats. Starting the meal with vodka and blinis is a must.
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NIGHTLIFE IN ST PETERSBURG Russia’s cultural capital boasts a thriving nightlife scene year-round, but in the peak of summer, during the White Nights, locals and visitors alike are even more apt to stay out all night – after all, during these magical few weeks, there is no “after dark”. Under the soft sunset glow, the city’s palaces, parks and squares play host to midnight concerts, open air jazz festivals, and streets come alive with roving performances and a spirited, “make the most of it” attitude that’s uniquely St Petersburg. Throughout the year, the city hosts a long list of cultural events and festivals. It’s the home of the world renowned Kirov Ballet and Opera Company, and seeing them perform at their elaborate headquarters, the Mariinsky Theatre, is an absolute must (if they’re not out touring internationally). A growing crop of smaller dance and theatre companies are providing plenty of healthy competition.
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St Petersburg’s club and bar scene doesn’t reach the same wild excesses of Moscow, but for some visitors, the more relaxed atmosphere comes as a bit of a relief, and St Petersburg’s scene is fun and varied all the same. The Dumaskaya Ul precinct, just off Nevsky Prospekt, is your best bet for all-night bar hopping, with four of St Petersburg’s coolest drinking and live music venues are tucked away behind a crumbling classical façade. Metro is the city’s quintessential Russian mega-club, with a poppy playlist attracting a youthful crowd. Leather clad erotic dancers take the stage after 2am several nights a week. During summer soccer season, try to score tickets to a game at Petrovsky Stadium and experience St Petersburgers’ fanaticism for their local team, Zenit.
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SHOPPING IN ST PETERSBURG
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St Petersburg isn’t a fashion-obsessed shopping mecca in the league of Moscow, but it’s still a great destination for everything from luxury brands to kitschy souvenirs and sought-after local antiques. St Petersburg’s main thoroughfare, Nevsky Prospekt is where most of the hotels are concentrated. While you’ll find all the classic Russian souvenirs you could want here, prices are higher than elsewhere. Still, with an abundance of beautiful boutique stores and galleries, the area is well worth an exploratory jaunt. The flea markets offer much more competitive prices as well as an authentic local shopping experience. Across the road from the Church of Spilled Blood is a small but excellent local arts and crafts market. Put your bargaining hat on, and be wary of brand name counterfeits. Central St Petersburg is also home to several mega department stores, the most famous of which is the elegantly restored Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor, a magnificent landmark and centre of trade for 250 years. Favourite St Petersburg mementos include lacquer boxes, amber from the Baltic Coast, filigree jewellery, wine, vodka, local chocolate, traditional Russian puppets and chess sets, and of course, the ubiquitous matryoshkya nesting dolls.
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TOURS OF ST PETERSBURG The streets of St. Petersburg tell many stories, and the best way to unravel the Russian city’s rich and fascinating history is through a group tour or private expedition. Almost like a living museum, the city of St. Petersburg and its many tourist attractions are perhaps best seen through the eyes of a local guide. Whether it’s a visit to the Hermitage Museum or the Peterhof palace, a small group tour is an intimate way to learn of St. Petersburg’s many legends and immerse in its thriving culture with fellow travellers. With an abundance of dining, entertainment and leisure options, there are so many experiences not to be missed. 56th Parallel is a premier tour company operating in St. Petersburg, and offers a choice of fully escorted tours and private charters. Visit www.56thparallel.com to see a full list of seasonal tours in St. Petersburg city.
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