A TRAVELLER’S GUIDE TO
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A TRSVELLER'S GUIDE TO RUSSIAN CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS When in Russia, do as the Russians do. Or at least, try and give it your best shot! If you’re prepared to put in a bit of effort to understand Russia’s unique culture, customs and traditions and the many strange and wonderful personality quirks unique to the Russian psyche, you’ll find travelling around Russia infinitely more rewarding. Interacting with local people gives you the chance to really connect with the Russian way of life through a shared appreciation and understanding of their culture, and the ways it is both strikingly similar and wildly different to own. While this guide aims to cover the basic do’s and don’ts of travelling in Russia, the most important thing to remember is that Russians are an extremely proud people. Any attempt to embrace the language and culture they hold so dearly is likely to be met with great enthusiasm and encouragement.
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SECTIONS WITHIN THIS EBOOK RUSSIAN CULTURE – AN OVERVIEW - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 4 The Russian language - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -6 Religion in Russia - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -6 Customs, manners and etiquette - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -7 PRACTICAL DO’S AND DON’TS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -10 Do’s - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -11 Don’t’s - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12 TIPPING IN RUSSIA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13 RUSSIAN BANYA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 15
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RUSSIAN CULTURE - AN OVERVIEW
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Russian cultural life is made up of many things, drawing on a rich, fascinating and ancient history, strong ties to tradition and a vastly influential body of art and literature. The Russians are understandably proud of their culture. During the Soviet era, many customs and traditions from Russia’s imperial past were suppressed and life was strictly controlled and regulated by the state. After Mikhail Gorbachev’s reforms in the 1980s, Russia’s common traditions began to reappear and customs, art and education were once again upheld as an important part of the Russian identity. Ingrained the Russian psyche is a great reverence for the endurance of the national culture, despite its many hardships and setbacks. Russians pride themselves on being able to survive where others could not, and patriotic songs are sung with gusto by almost every Russian. Understandably, there’s a widening cultural gap between the older folk in Russia who lived through the Soviet era, and the younger generation who’ve embraced the new, cosmopolitan Russia. Even so, there are traditional Russian values and core beliefs shared on every level of society, including: an adoration of children, respect for the elderly, a sense of humour, the importance of friendship, generosity, pride, patriotism, a love of the arts, nostalgia, self-sacrifice, conservatism, caution, collectivism, and to a degree, pessimism and cynicism.
of winter activities are available on the lake and its surrounds, including ice skating, cross-‐ country skiing, dog sledding and ice fishing
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THE RUSSIAN LANGUAGE Over 80% of Russia’s estimated population of 150 million speak Russian as their first and only language. Most speakers of a minority language are also bilingual speakers of Russian. Russians now learn English as a second language at school, and you’ll find many English speakers in Moscow in St Petersburg, especially among the younger generations. Outside of the major cities, meeting fluent English speakers is less common, and you’ll find knowing a few key words and phrases in Russian infinitely useful.
RELIGION IN RUSSIA Although Russia is a multi-ethnic and multi-faith nation, the majority of Russians consider themselves Christians, with around 75% of the population belonging to the Russian Orthodox Church. However, the vast majority of Orthodox believers do not attend church on a regular basis. While most Russians appreciate Christian moral values, they don’t tend to uphold them as strict guidelines, and most Russians live life in a largely secular society. Christian traditions are most visible in Russia during holy days and festivals such as Easter and Christmas, which are as much about gathering together with family and friends as they are about religion. Russia is home to a diverse array of minority religions, including a Muslim population of around 5%. The indigenous people of Siberia practice an array of ancient religions, with forms of Shamanism and Buddhism still thriving here after hundreds of generations.
winter activities are available on the lake and its surrounds, including ice skating, cross-‐ Call us on 1300 742 374 (toll free from Australia) or +61-2-8221-88-59 from the rest of the world, or visit our website www.56thparallel.com
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CUSTOMS, MANNERS AND ETIQUETTE
GREETINGS The typical Russian greeting is a strong, (almost bone-crushing handshake) while maintaining direct eye contact. Males will shake a female’s hand a little less firmly. When female friends meet, they kiss on the cheek. A meeting between close male friends often begins with a pat on the back and a hug.
RUSSIAN NAMING CONVENTIONS Russian names are comprised of: -‐ -‐
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A first name, which is the given name A middle name, which is a patronymic, or version, of the father’s first name. It’s formed by adding ‘-vich’ or ‘-ovich’ for a male, and ‘-avna’ or ‘-ovna’ for a female. The son of Mikhail’s patronymic name would be Mikhailovich. His daughter’s patronymic name would be Mikhailovna. Last name, which is the family name or surname In formal situations, people are addressed by all three names. Friends and close acquaintances may refer to each other by the first name and patronymic. Close friends and family members call each other by first name only.
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GIFT GIVING ETIQUETTE -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐
If you are invited to a Russian home for a meal, bring a small gift. Male guests are usually expected to bring flowers. Don’t bring yellow flowers, as some Russians see them as signifying separation or betrayal. Do not give a baby a gift until after the baby is born. It’s bad luck to do so sooner. Russians often protest when they are offered a gift. Replying that “it’s just a little something” and offer the gift again and it will usually be graciously accepted.
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DINING ETIQUETTE If you are invited to a Russian's house: -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐
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Arrive on time or no more than 15 minutes later than invited Take off your shoes. You may be given slippers to wear. Dress well – smart casual, or businesslike is usually OK. Dressing well shows respect for your hosts. Expect to be treated with honour, respect and generosity Offer to help the hostess with preparation and clearing up after the meal. This may be turned down out of politeness, but a bit of light persistence is OK to get her to accept her offer. Table manners are Continental – fork in the left hand and the knife in the right. The oldest or most honoured guest is served first Do not begin eating until the host invites you to start Do not rest your elbows on the table. Russians tend to put on an overwhelmingly generous spread, and you’ll often be urged to take second helpings Use bread to soak up extra gravy or sauce Men pour drinks for women seated next to them Leaving a small amount of food on your plate indicates that your hosts have provided amply. An empty plate signifies that you’re still hungry. Do not get up until you are invited to leave the table. At formal dinners, the guest of honour is first to stand up.
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PRACTICAL DO’S AND DON’TS
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DO -‐
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Learn key words and phrases in Russian. Brush up on greetings, numbers, shopping and bargaining words, and how to ask for directions. A few simple conversational phrases that allow you to talk about yourself and ask about others can go a long way towards connecting with local people Learn the basics of the Cyrillic alphabet before coming to Russia. Being able to read the names of streets, metro stops, train and bus stations, shop signs and restaurant menus will make getting around infinitely easier Pack dressier clothes than you might normally. Russians pay attention to their appearance and tend to be more respectful of well-dressed people. Looking too casual can identify you as a tourist. Bring or buy a long black coat if you’re travelling to Russia in winter. It’s an essential item for keeping warm and helps you blend in with the locals! Dressing up for a night on the town is a must. Bring a small gift, such as chocolates, flowers, a small toy for a child or a souvenir from home if you’re invited into a Russian household Take tissues and liquid soap/sanitiser when you are out and about as many public bathrooms are not equipped with these facilities Dress modestly when visiting churches and other religious places. Woman should cover their heads before entering a Russian Orthordox church, and men should take off their hats if they’re wearing one.
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DON’T -‐
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Leave your shoes on when entering someone’s home. Russian homes, even apartments, are often adorned with expensive rugs, and Russian streets are often dusty. Shoes and expensive floor coverings don’t mix! The host will usually offer a pair of slippers (tapochki) to wear inside, and women sometimes pack a separate pair of ‘indoor’ shoes. Overlook the elderly on public transport. Respect for elders remains a strong tradition in Russia, and not giving up your seat for an elderly person who is standing is seen as a grave offence – expect the entire bus to look at you like you’re a criminal! The same rule applies for pregnant women, and Russian men will often give up their seat for a woman regardless. Burp in public! Your bodily functions are considered private affairs, so do your best to keep them to yourself and avoid causing offense. Take pictures inside churches, unless you’ve asked the staff that it’s OK to do so. Ask for a mixer with your vodka. Vodka is practically a holy elixir in Russia, and the notion of drinking it with orange juice or soda borders on sacrilege. If you need something to wash it down, you can chase it with lemon, pickles, or a glass of water. Be afraid to decline vodka! Just have a religious or health excuse handy. Be aware that when Russians do drink vodka, you’re expected to keep up with them, and they usually drink til the bottle’s empty. Be surprised if you’re stopped by the police. Carry a photocopy of your passport, visa and registration and be prepared to present them should an officer ask Be afraid to open yourself up to Russian hospitality and try some uniquely Russian experiences. Taste local food and drink, sweat it out at a banya, discover classical ballet and theatre, get amongst it at a local sporting event, participate in a cultural festival and explore the vibrant nightlife of the Russian cities, preferably with a local as your guide.
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TIPPING IN RUSSIA
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There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to tipping in Russia. Tipping has traditionally been frowned upon, especially during Soviet times, and many Russians still do not tip. However, tipping culture has grown alongside tourism in Russia, and as a tourist or visitor, it some places there is an expectation that you’ll leave a tip. However, the amount you tip should depend on the level of service provided and you shouldn’t feel obliged to tip if you feel the service wasn’t up to scratch.
TAXIS Usually, you’ll negotiate the price when you get into the taxi, so there’s no need to tip. If you don’t, simply round up the fare.
HOTELS Bellboys and porters should be tipped about 60 rubles per bag. You can tip the hotel maid about 90 rubles per day, left in the ashtray by the bed.
RESTAURANTS
For table service, a tip of around 10% to 15% is appropriate if you’re happy with the service.
BARS
If there’s no waiter, you won’t be expected to tip. If you do get table service, around 10% to 15% is appropriate.
TOUR GUIDES AND DRIVERS
If your guide or driver’s service has met your expectations, go ahead and tip them around 5-15% of your tour cost (depending on the value of your tour).
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THE RUSSIAN BANYA
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Every visitor to Russia should experience a traditional banya or Russian spa at least once. Since a banya visit is so different to what most of us have experienced in a spa environment, we thought we should include a quick run-down of what to expect when visiting a Russian banya for the first time. The banya is one of Russia’s most popular pastimes, allowing you to experience the cleansing effects of sauna and the convivial atmosphere of a communal bathhouse. The experience begins by shedding your clothes and entering the banya room, where you’ll stay until sweat runs freely from every pore in your body. The next step usually involves an invigorating and oddly pleasurable ‘beating’ with a venik, (a bundle of birch or oak branches), followed by a bracing dip in an icy cold plunge pool. Then the process, said to detoxify and rejuvenate the body, is repeated several times for optimal effect.
WHAT TO TAKE WITH YOU Generally, the only thing you’ll need to take with you to a co-ed banya is a swimsuit. For samesex banyas (and some co-eds), bathing suits are optional. Most baths will provide slippers (bring your own if you like), and you might also like to purchase a special wool hat from one of the attendants to keep your head from overheating.
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WHAT TO EXPECT INSIDE Inside the banya, you’ll typically find a small office where you can pay for the visit, receive a key for your locker and hire a venik. You’ll usually be able to purchase bathing accessories here also. In a co-ed banya, the change rooms are single-sex. Bathers leave their clothes in the locker, go for a quick wash-down in the shower and then put on a bathing suit and slippers before heading to the steam room. If you’ve purchased a venik, it’s prepared outside by soaking it in a hot water bucket for around 10 to 20 minutes. Leave the venik in the bucket and take a towel to sit on the steam room. Good sauna etiquette requires that the door is only opened for a short time to keep the heat inside.
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ROUND ONE The first round in the steam room is just a warm up, so don’t push yourself too hard just yet. Sitting or lying down on a lower level bench will provide a more moderate experience. Once you feel hot enough, head outside for a rest. You can take a shower or a dip in the plunge pool, or just cool off slowly at room temperature.
ROUND TWO Once you’re feeling completely relaxed and ready for round two, head for the steam room again. You can now take your venik with you. You can use the venik to massage yourself or ask your companion to massage you. The venik technique can be quite sophisticated, but essentially, it’s just a rhythmic tapping and waggling. After soaking, the branches become soft, creating a surprisingly pleasurable massaging sensation. This time you can push yourself a bit further, and when you feel it’s getting too hot for your tastes, go for a dip in the cold water plunge pool. Ice cold water comes as a bit of a shock to the body, but it’s an essential part of the whole experience. After about 10 seconds to a minute in the ice water, relax, and repeat the hot-cold cycle as many times as you feel comfortable. During your later visits, an attendant might put ice on your back (screaming is acceptable!) Russians usually go for about five or six cycles, but listen to your own body, and don’t over do it! After you’re done, pull up a chair and enjoy a soothing cup of tea, or in true Russian style, hunker down with a beer or vodka and some snacks. Russians often spend the whole day at the banya, drinking and chatting with friends.
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TIPS FOR FIRST TIMERS •
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Most Russians bathe in the steam room naked. It’s perfectly normal and there’s not need to feel self-conscious. If you do prefer to cover up, you can do so with an extra towel wrapped around you. Don’t drink alcohol while bathing. Alcohol and heat have a cumulative effect increasing the load on the heart. Being a little intoxicated also makes it harder to judge when it’s time to head out and cool down. Cool drinks slow down sweating. Go for hot tea instead. It’s best to visit a banya on a reasonably empty stomach. Heat makes blood rush from the internal organs to the skin which prevents proper digestion. Snacks and meals are usually served after the banya. Don’t try to compete with friends or more experienced bathers in the steam room or the cold pool. Listen to your own body. Don’t throw too much water on the stones. If the stones get too damp, the steam becomes heavier and not so enjoyable to breath. Try to lie down while in the steam room. If you stay seated, the difference in temperature between your head and feet can be quite dramatic, and you don’t want to overheat your head. Get plenty of rest time in between rounds in the steam room.
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