A TRAVELLER’S GUIDE TO
RUSSIA
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A TRAVELLER'S GUIDE TO MOSCOW With rich historical origins and grand architecture at every turn, Moscow is a city with a bustling city culture enough for even the most experienced traveller to get lost in. Well renowned as one of the most influential centres of cultural, commercial, political and artistic life in Europe, Moscow isn’t far behind St. Petersburg as the most popular tourist destination in Russia. With its candy-striped cathedral domes, imposing old world architecture and lavish landmarks of modern day excess, Moscow is one of the world’s biggest mega-cities, with a population of around 11.5 million people. Travelling to Moscow takes some careful planning, as the vast number of sights and activities can be overwhelming for travelers, coupled with the sheer intensity of Russia’s urban lifestyle and an unfamiliar language and alphabet. This guide aims to give a brief introduction to first time travellers to Moscow to help them navigate the city’s many features - including when to go, what to see, and how to get around Moscow with relative ease.
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SECTIONS WITHIN THIS EBOOK Moscow for beginners -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 4 When to visit Moscow -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 5 Highlightes of Moscow -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 6 Getting In and Around -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 17 Dining and nighlife in Moscow-‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 20 Shopping in Moscow -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ 26 Tours of Moscow -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐28
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MOSCOW FOR BEGINNERS
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WHEN TO VISIT MOSCOW Moscow is famous for its bitterly cold winters, so it’s unsurprising that most visitors tend to favour summer. The peak season is June through to August, when the city is warm and bustling with travellers from all over the world. However, if you want to avoid the higher prices that come with booking accommodation in the summer, you might try the shoulder seasons of spring and early autumn. Late spring (April and May) provide more sunshine and less rainfall, while in autumn, the city’s parks are filled with flowering trees and colourful leaves. The depths of mid-winter are undoubtedly cold, but a winter visit is an adventure that will give you a true insight into Moscow life – both its hardships and its great beauty. Furs and vodka keep the locals warm and the snowfilled streets are postcard picturesque. The Christmas lights, traditional winter markets and News Years celebrations offer sights and sounds to be savoured.
of winter activities are available on the lake and its surrounds, including ice skating, cross-‐ country skiing, dog sledding and ice fishing.
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HIGHLIGHTES OF MOSCOW
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THE KREMLIN No place better represents the triumphs and turmoil of Russia’s past than the Kremlin. Built between the 14th and 17th centuries, it was the Imperial Residence as well as an important religious centre. Within the imposing walls of the Kremlin are a plethora of classic buildings, each as stunning as the next. Wander past the modern glass and concrete Kremlin Palace, the neoclassical Senate Building, the 40 tonne Tsar Cannon and the 200 tonne Tsar Bell, the Armoury (now a fascinating museum of Imperial treasures and weaponry), the magnificent Cathedral Square and many more monuments to the power and might of the Russian Tsars.
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THE RED SQUARE Along the eastern side of the Kremlin Wall is the vast cobblestoned expanse of the Red Square. Although it’s been the scene of countless displays of military might, parades and protests since the 15th century, it’s traditionally been a place of trade and social gatherings, and today thousands flock to the square to celebrate official state events, be photographed in front of famous monuments or simply soak up its historic splendour.
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ST BASIL'S CATHEDRAL Located in the Red Square is one of Russia’s most iconic buildings, with its vibrant multi-coloured onion shaped domes. The cathedral was commissioned by Ivan the Terrible in 1552 to mark the capture of Kazan from the Mongol forces. According to legend, Ivan was so enamoured by architect Postnik Yakovlev’s design that he had him blinded so that he would never be able to design anything as fantastical again! If the cathedral is open, it’s possible to visit the interior. Although the mazelike interconnected chapels are surprisingly small, they’re richly decorated and well worth an explore.
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ARBAT STREET In the heart of downtown Moscow, Arbat Street is Moscow’s oldest pedestrian street. The cobblestone roads and classical statues are reminders of its elegant past, but today the area caters mostly for the tourist crowd, with rows of souvenir shops and restaurants and cafes of varying quality. Still, it’s a must-visit attraction with a lively atmosphere. Street performers and musicians ply the street day and night, and you can often see traditional Russian craftspeople at work.
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THE MOSCOW METRO Apart from being one of the largest and oldest underground railway systems in the world, and a fantastic, cheap way to get around Moscow, the metro is a tourist attraction in its own right, thanks to its spectacularly decorated underground stations, designed by the most skilled architects of the Soviet Union. The stations have been described as underground art museums, home to fantastic sculpture and murals and striking architectural elements. From stained glass panels to mosaic marble floors. Mayakovskaya, Elektrozavodskaya, Prospekt Mira, Arbatskaya, Kievskaya and Novoslobodskaya stations are among the most beautiful.
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BOLSHOI THEATRE A historic theatre in the centre of Moscow, renowned for its world-class ballet and opera performances. An evening at the Bolshoi Theatre is one of Moscow’s most romantic after-hours options and the theatre offers a range of Russian and foreign works throughout the week. Equally as spectacular as the theatre’s performances is the rich, lavish interior of the six-level auditorium. Tickets to these performances can be reserved over the phone or on the theatre website depending on availability.
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GORKY PARK An amusement park in Moscow named after Maxim Gorky, inaugurated in 1928, was redesigned and remodelled in 2011 to much acclaim and popularity. Since its opening in 1930s, the park became a leader in Avant-garde architecture. Today it is an eco-friendly recreational area with sports facilities, an open-air cinema and cafe. The park is one of the most popular spots in the city and stretches along the banks of the Moscow River. While it’s an incredibly popular spot in Summer, each winter the park hosts an 18,000 square meter ice rink, with areas for children to play, as well as designated hockey, dancing, and skating areas.
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MOSCOW STATE UNIVERSITY Also known as the Lomonosov Moscow State University, this educational institution is worth visiting for its architectural grandeur and the breathtaking views from its windows. It is also a short walk from the Sparrow Hill viewing point for an even more impressing outlook of the city. Moscow State University is one of Moscow’s Seven Sisters, the group of seven Moscow skyscrapers designed in Stalinist style each with sweeping views of the city.
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TSARITSYNO PALACE Located in far east Moscow, Tsaritsyno palace was founded in 1984 in the park of the same name. The palace is a modern-day continuation of the exotic summer home which Catherine Great began construction of in 1775 but never finished. The government finally decided to continue the project and finished the two-storey square structure in 2005. With red brick walls and white stone decorations, the palace museum now houses many exhibitions including a collection of decorative and applied arts.
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MOSCOW RIVER CRUISE A river cruise is a fantastic way to see Moscow and its many attractions and a perfect alternative to a city tour by car or bus. River cruises are an affordable way to see Moscow whilst avoiding the crowded streets and busy city roads. River cruises in Moscow treat travelers to an unimpeded view of many of the citys most famous landmarks including The Kremlin, The Peter the Great statue and The Red Square, among the many other fine examples of contemporary architecture and traditionally constructed Churches and monuments.
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GETTING IN AND AROUND MOSCOW
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Even if you’re on an organised tour, you’ll have time to yourself to explore the city on foot, or by public transport. The Metro in particular is a great, inexpensive way to get around the city and experience a part of daily life for Moscow’s locals.
METRO Moscow is a huge metropolis with a well-developed public transport system. The city is famous for its metro system, whose beautiful underground stations are tourist attractions in themselves. The Moscow Metro network is extensive, comfortable, cheap and efficient. It can get quite crowded at peak times however – up to nine million people per day ride the metro! However, during rush hours (8am to 11am and 5pm to 8pm) it’s a much better option than tackling Moscow’s infamous above-ground traffic jams. The metro service begins at 6am and the last trains of the night depart at around 1am. The layout and colour-coded Moscow Metro system is intuitive and easy to navigate. No signs are in English though, so bring an English map along with you. Magnetic tickets are sold at ticket booths at every station. Buying a multiple-ride ticket saves you the hassle of queuing up every time.
BUSES, TROLLEYBUSES AND TRAMS Almost every street in Moscow is serviced by a bus or tram route. Some streets have overhead wires to accommodate electric trolleybuses, while others are fitted with tram tracks. One trip costs 28R ($1USD) making buses, trolleys and trams a super inexpensive way to see the city. The #7 trolleybus route is the most convenient to explore the major sites of Moscow. It runs from the Victory Park (Park Pobedy) to the Stone Bridge (Kamennyï Most) near the Kremlin, following the riverbank and up to Sparrow Hills (Vorobyovy Gory).
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TAXIS Many unofficial cabs, known as ‘gypsy taxis’ cruise around looking for fares, but we recommend sticking to the official taxis, recognisable by their chequerboard logo on the side and/or a small green light in the windscreen. Moscow taxi drivers almost never use metres (even if they have them fitted) so you’ll have to negotiate a fare first. Bargaining is a must, and even then, taxi rides tend to be on the expensive side, best reserved for when public transport isn’t a convenient option.
MARSHRUTKA These mini-buses are found in both Moscow and St Petersburg. They travel along fixed routes but passengers can wave them down anywhere, like taxis. You pay immediately (usually around 30R) once you get inside. Tell the driver ‘stop’, or to be more polite, ‘ostano`vite po`zhaluista’ (stop please) as you approach your stop. Marshrutkas aren’t generally favoured by tourists, as it’s not easy to work out where they’re headed, unless you can ask in Russian.
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DINING AND NIGHTLIFE IN MOSCOW
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DINING IN MOSCOW As one of the world’s largest and most vibrant metropolises, Moscow’s nightlife has come into its own. In fact, some would say the city truly comes alive at night. Russians love to eat, drink and party, and for Muscovites, the night time is the right time – Moscow positively buzzes all night long with a multitude of drinking, drinking and entertainment options. In a single neighbourhood you can find it all: traditional Russian meal followed by a night of boisterous folk dance, top notch international cuisine, an ultra-chic bar or an edgy underground music club – Moscow has it all.
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Muscovites love eating out, and many restaurants are open 24 hours. Dining options range from hole-in-the-wall cafés, kiosks and food stalls that serve authentic and well-priced homestyle Russian food through to international fast food chains to high-end fine dining restaurants with prices to match. Moscow’s increasing wealth has really raised the bar for restaurants over the past decade. Diners have a great choice of cuisines from every corner of the world. Moscow’s upmarket restaurants charge top dollar, but the food, service and surroundings are generally excellent. You’ll still find plenty of casual options, and there’s also been a recent revival in street food culture, with stalls selling hot, fast and fresh snacks around popular parks and squares. As a visitor, you’ll probably want to try some traditional Russian food. Here are a few suggestions:
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ELKI-PALKI A chain of around 35 inexpensive Russian restaurants started by Arkdy Novikov, a legendary Moscow restaurateur. Each Restaurant is designed to look like a traditional rustic village hut. Try the pelmeni (meat dumplings), borchst and the kvas, a non-alcoholic traditional drink. Expect to pay around 300 rubles for a meal with beer.
PUSHKIN The café, which is really a five-star restaurant, is situated in a building that was renovated to look exactly like a Russian aristocrat's home circa 1825. The staff speaks a beautiful, pre-Sovietized Russian (and English) and serves some of the best fare in town. You'll want to get the blinchiki (Russian pancakes) with black caviar, borscht and pelmeni (dumplings), before moving on to the famous Tsar's Sturgeon and, of course, one of Pushkin's many, many desserts. Make sure your meal includes a spot or two or three of vodka.
KALINA BAR Cocktail bar and restaurant located 21 floors up on top of the swish Lotte Plaza Shopping Centre, Kalina Bar is a jet set choice. The birds eye view over the city is stunning, especially as the sun sets and the city lights flicker. The expert cocktails and fine wine selection all help the view go down even better and once the night sets in so does the house music as the beautiful crowd turn up for their aperitifs. If you want one of the prime window seats book in advance, especially at the weekend.
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NIGHTLIFE IN MOSCOW Let it be known, Russians love to party, and Moscow is undoubtedly the party capital of Russia. The capital city has an incredible array of nightlife options a scene for everyone – whether you’re keen to catch a live Russian rock band, slink into a smoky jazz club, go clubbing til the break of dawn or just lounge around with a beer and an endless array of fine Russian vodkas for the tasting. One thing visitors notice is that many nightlife venues also double up as restaurants, and sometimes will even have an adjoining bowling alley, billiards club, karaoke joint, concert venue, casino or even book shop. Perhaps because Moscow taxi fares a quite expensive, and roaming Moscow’s streets in the dead of winter isn’t all that fun, bar owners often want their venue to be a ‘one-stop-shop’ for dining, drinking and other night time activities.
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Clubs tend to be on the pricey side, and Moscow’s bouncers can be notoriously fickle. While foreigners are sometimes given a little more leeway, the best advice is to dress to impress if you intend to hit up Moscow’s more glamorous night spots. For a budget alternative, simply join the throngs of locals hanging out to the street, ordering drinks from scruffy kiosks. Recently though, the local government has cracked down on these venues, although they still appear in more youthful corners of the city, particularly around universities. The epicentre of Moscow’s nightlife is to the north of Beliy Gorod. Around the Pushkinskya metro stop and around the Tversakaya Ulitsa are plenty of places ranging from hipster hangouts to relaxed student dive bars. Other more casual options for bar-hopping can be found in the Khamovniki district. Southwest of the city, prices are often cheaper than the centre and the area heaves with youngsters having a good time on weekends. A night out in Moscow can be intense, overwhelming and exhilarating. Russians tend not to do things in halves, and partying is no exception. The best thing to do is do as the locals do – cast your inhibitions aside, let yourself be swept along by the excitement and an outrageously good time is almost guaranteed.
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SHOPPING IN MOSCOW
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Moscow is a shopper’s paradise. Young and old flock to the brand new mega-malls and well- heeled locals head to gleaming department stores and designer boutiques for the latest fashions. Food markets are a long standing Moscow tradition and remain as lively and colourful as ever. For a huge range of souvenirs, local and international clothing, head for the city centre’s two major shopping centres, the glamorous GUM (a haven for designer brands) and the partially underground Okhotny Ryad, which attracts a broader range of shoppers. Both are found just off the Red Square. Just north of the Red Square, Tverskaya Street is lined with a wide variety of boutique stores and is an interesting stroll in its own right. There are some fantastic speciality food shops here – keep an eye out for Eliseyevsky Gastronom, a modern version of an elite 19th century food emporium, famous for offering Russia’s most expensive chocolates, as well as premium vodkas and other traditional fare.
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TOURS OF MOSCOW As the capital of Russia and most populous city in Europe, Moscow is a world renowned bustling city hub with an incredible variety of sights on display. Navigating through the city and its incredible infrastructure can be an overwhelming task for visitors, and seeing the city’s many attractions through a private expedition or small group tour is recommended. With a huge range of dining options, entertainment and leisure activities, museums and cultural sights to navigate, Moscow can be challenging to cover, even for the most seasoned traveller. Whether it’s the rich history and imperial past of the city which interest you, or immersive art, contemporary culture and architecture, premier tour company 56th Parallel offers a choice of fully escorted tours and private charters to cater to your specific needs. Visit www.56thparallel.com to see a full list of seasonal tours in Moscow.
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