Stock & Barrel | Spring 2023

POWERED

8 LOCAL DISHES YOU WON’T BELIEVE ARE MEATLESS,

2 CREATIVE SPINS ON ITALIAN CUISINE, & MORE

BIG PICTURE

The long-awaited Columbus Brewing Company restaurant and beer hall has officially arrived. The anticipated space combines some of the city's best craft beer with a worldly new food menu on the historic near east side.

See more of Columbus Brewing Company's new taproom on pg. 20.

CONTENTS

COVER SECTION

From soul food to soulful pizza, check out eight of the city’s irreplaceable meatless dishes that you might mistake for the real thing

BEER HALL FOR ALL

At long last, Columbus Brewing has opened the doors of its east side restaurant and taproom

BAGPIPES & BEER

Meet the only Columbus-area craft brewery with a resident bagpipe band

A SPECK IN THE PAN

Star Columbus chef Josh Dalton showcases culinary skill, restless creativity at the new Downtown home of Speck Italian Eatery

64

CULINARY GETAWAYS

If you’re looking for quaint drinkeries, mouthwatering grub, and stunning scenery, look no further – Pittsburgh checks all your boxes

COVER PHOTO BY SARAH PFEIFER

From the Editor

PUBLISHER

Wayne T. Lewis

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

Lindsay Press

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Jack McLaughlin

COPY EDITOR

Sarah Sole

JACK MCLAUGHLIN Editor-In-Chief

Nice to Meatless You

If you kill bugs, you’re a bad person.

I’m kidding, but I do have a problem with killing insects indiscriminately. In theory, I understand the idea that a human life is “worth” more to other humans. I mean, it would be hard to exist as a species if we didn’t at least kind of like each other. I understand this, but I can’t really bring myself to subscribe to it.

What I don't understand is the scale. It feels arbitrary and incomplete. What about our species makes our lives worth more than a bird or a frog or a cat or a spider? Is there a point system I’m missing?

Hopping up the food chain from the insects, things have always been a little more interesting to me when it comes to eating animals, or I guess, not eating animals. I was a vegetarian for years. Not the strictest, mind you, but a vegetarian nonetheless. I do eat meat today, but I opt to eat vegetarian when I can, still.

Sure, I would like to go green again someday, but I’m not perfect. I also understand that death is part of the natural order of life, and it’s something that has to happen, so I’m not inherently against eating animals. I do believe that if you eat something, you should watch, at least once, on whatever platform you can, the entire process of how an animal goes from life to death to food, because it doesn’t feel right to partake in something (like eating a steak) while ignoring the steps it takes to achieve it (however unsettling they might be).

All of this is to say it gets endlessly complicated when it comes to food, and I’ve feel like I’ve floated contradictions more than once.

But hey, no matter where you stand, you know what? We’re here to let you in on a little secret: It’s the year 2023. Meatless options are really, really good, and Columbus is full of them. I remember the first time I tried falafel, wondering how plants could taste that good. And the more I’ve done, the more I’ve learned the answer is this: pretty easily.

In the Spring 2023 issue of Stock & Barrel, we’re taking you on a mouth-watering tour through some of the city’s best meatless options, and all of them stand toe to toe with their meat-containing counterparts. Because it doesn’t matter where you stand, even if you’re skeptical, keep an open mind, it won’t be hard to find something new you’ll love.

So let’s put those fly-swatters down and pick up those salad fingers. Let’s get plant-powered.

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Sarah Pfeifer, Jen Brown, Leonardo Carrizo, Aaron Massey, Jordy Middlebrooks

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jack McLaughlin, Melinda Green, Sarah Sole, Jim Fischer

Laura Hennigan, Shelby Metzger, Molly Hammond

CREATIVE DESIGNERS

Bryce Patterson

Victoria Smith

Atlas Biro

VIDEO PRODUCER / EDITOR

Austin Black

DIRECTOR OF MARKETING

Justynne Pride

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Julia Attanasio

MARKETING COORDINATOR

Natalie Mastrantonio

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Meggin Weimerskirch

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Mindy Wilhite

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Paul VanHorn

Anna Gerhard

BRAND MANAGER, 614 LAGER

Lizzy Saunders

EVENTS COORDINATOR

Lizzy Saunders

Questions about advertising?

Scan here!

CALENDAR

Spring is here, Columbus! Check out ways to celebrate below, and keep an eye on 614now.com and our social media for more.

Short North Food Tour ($68)

Multiple Dates

Location: Begins at North Market (59 Spruce St.)

Ray Ray’s Supper Club: Little Fish Brewing Co. Dinner ($110)

March 24

Location: 1256 Columbus Rd., Granville

4th Annual Chili Cookoff ($8)

April 9

Location: 1950 N. 4th St., STE L.

Columbus Taco Fest (free)

May 20 - 21

Location: Genoa Park (303 W. Broad St.)

“Hands down mac 'n cheese.”

Meggin Weimerskirch

Advertising Director

“I made these lentil and walnut vegan tacos. They might weird, but I promise they’re great”

Victoria Smith

Creative Designer

STAFF PICKS

By Stock & Barrel staff

Marvelous Meatless Meals

We’re honoring some of our favorite meatless menu items in this year’s Spring issue of Stock & Barrel, so naturally we’ve asked our staff what their favorite meatless dishes are. Here’s what they said.

“Meggin you can't say that, mac 'n cheese is my thing”

Justynne Pride Marketing Director

“All of my entrees are meatless, but I’m gonna go with Northstar’s veggie burger. They even have a vegan version that comes with Focaccia. And the simple salad of course.”

Lizzy Saunders Brand Manager, (614) Beer

“Falafel. Falafel. Falafel.”

Jack McLaughlin Editor

“The Anarchy Burger from Seitan’s Realm! Hands down the best burger in town, vegan or not”

Atlas Biro

Creative Designer

PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING

↑ Foraged and Sown, Ambrosial Hebal Tea

Lemon verbena, pineapple sage, mojito mint and tulsi harmonize in this customer favorite. This blend calls to mind to the longer days of warmer months when all of these plants are making huge strides in growth.

↑ Pineapple Express

A tart, refreshing sour ale that was once a heralded taproom exclusive is now available in cans.

True to its name, Pineapple Express packs tropical flavors and green, earthy additions from the natural cannabis terpenes used to brew it. THC-free.

↑ Clemeno Co.

Kosmic Solid Perfume, For the free spirit at heart, a person that goes by stardust, or a business person that parts beads when they enter different rooms of their apartment! Fresh top notes of sweet orange and lavender; plus a sleek woody blend of patchouli, incense and golden amber.

Mmelo, Chocolate Salami

In an issue dedicated to meat-replacement meals, it only makes sense to bring dessert into the picture. This $9 lookalike salami can be ordered from Mmelo’s online store today.

Did you know that (614) has a YouTube channel with some very shareable video content, including delicious food stories from Stock & Barrel? It’s true. We've expanded our ever-growing content to include video across our web and magazine stories. Keep an eye out for more on our (614) Columbus account and on social media. In the meantime, check out the newest videos on our channel:

• Cotton Sugar Co: The Highlight of Your Next Party

After years in the corporate world, learn how Stephanie Dougherty left it all behind to chase this deliciously sweet dream. Scan the QR code to watch.

• Tasting Columbus: 3 Bites Bakery

Pulling together a fusion of globally inspired bakes treats, 3 Bites Bakery is creating some delectable treats beside their perfectly portioned new lunch options. Scan the QR code to watch.

• How Argentina is Spicing Up the Columbus Food Scene

Bringing flavors and unique cooking styles of his home of Argentina, Sebastian LaRocca serves as the head chef of one of Columbus's hottest new gathering spots: FYR. Scan the QR code to watch.

• Tasting Columbus: CJ's Soulfood

Serving soulful meals that hit the spot and live music to match any occasion, CJ's plates satisfy anybody! Scan the QR code to watch.

# EAT 614

It’s difficult for us here at Stock & Barrel to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar.

WHAT'S YOUR RECIPE?

Sweet & Spicy Oyster Mushroom “Chicken” Strips

AUSTIN BLACK

Video Producer/Editor

This month, our cover section is dedicated to a handful of local meatless dishes that could pass for their meaty counterparts, so when we needed a recipe, we turned to one of our staff experts (and pescetarian), videographer Austin Black

These are sweet, spicy, and hearty enough to serve as stand-in “chicken” strips, or however else you prefer. Enjoy.

INGREDIENTS

(For Mushrooms)

1 cup king oyster mushrooms

1 tbsp vegetable oil

1 pinch fresh thyme

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 pinch salt

1 pinch black pepper

1/2 bird's eye chili

(For Sauce)

¼ cup water

¼ cup vinegar

¼ cup maple syrup

¼ cup water

1 tbsp chili flakes

1 tbsp paprika

1 clove garlic chopped

1 tsp cornstarch

PREPARATION

1. Cut mushrooms into vertical strips (do not wash!)

2. Season with salt, black pepper, garlic, paprika, thyme (or whatever you prefer) and a light coating of oil.

3. Cook mushrooms on medium-high heat for 4-5 minutes on each side

4. Combine sauce ingredients into a saucepan, except for starch.

5. Add starch after letting the sauce simmer for 5 minutes. Cook until sauce thickens.

6. Finely dice half of a bird’s eye chili for color and heat (optional)

7. Brush or pour over (chicken), or use as dipping sauce. Serve alongside rice or by themselves.

8. Enjoy!

Sexton’s Victorian Village Cheese

By Jack McLaughlin

Story Design By Bryce Patterson

↓ Sextons's Victorian Village Cheese Pizza

Typically, our “Secret Menu Spotlight” segment highlights an item you can grab today at a local eatery, but when really good Columbus pizza is involved, we tend to make exceptions.

And that’s exactly the case with Sexton’s Pizza’s Victorian Village Cheese.

According to Joey Sexton, who co-owns and operates the popular local pizza concept with his brother, Jamey Sexton, the pizzeria is planning to open a unique New York-style slice shop in Victorian Village later this year.

The new store will operate as a carryout pizzeria that’s focused on selling pies by the slice until they’re gone, a unique departure from Sexton’s other locations.

It will be located at 360 W. 3rd Ave., and when it opens later this year, it will do so with a new secret menu item that will be available (at first, at least) only at this location: The Victorian Village Cheese.

According to Joey Sexton, the new slice will feature shredded whole milk mozzarella, fresh, hand-pulled mozzarella, and fresh basil. It gives patrons the opportunity to add local Ezzo pepperoni as well for a small amount more.

The new slice isn’t a reinvention of the wheel, but it will offer a subtle, culinary upgrade on the classic (and sometimes boring) cheese pizza.

According to Joey Sexton, the new secret menu item will initially only be available only at the Victorian Village slice shop, but there’s a chance that it could make its way to other Sexton’s locations, depending on how it’s received.

No matter the case, there will only be one Victorian Village Cheese.

“There’s a chance we’ll make it available at other locations, but it will be under a different name," Sexton said.

To learn more, visit sextonspizza.com

At long last, Columbus Brewing has opened the doors of its east side restaurant and taproom

Back in the 1800’s, at the northeast corner of Oak Street and Kelton Avenue, five buildings totaling more than 60,000 square feet served as a hub for the city’s trolley transportation system. Over a century later, the former mechanic’s shop where trolleys were repaired is now home to the new Columbus Brewing Company Beer Hall.

It’s an opening that’s been five plus years in the making (slowed down by a pesky pandemic), and CBC owners Eric and Beth Bean are thrilled to see their longawaited dream finally come to fruition. With their original Brewhouse firmly established on the west side, the Beans had long been looking east for their next concept. “This new location really enables us to show the full scope of what we want to do, including an extensive food menu,” says Evan Magliocca, CBC Vice President of Marketing. “It gives us the ability to show off a lot of more unique ingredients and styles, along with integrating the community more.”

An original walk-through of the building revealed its age and state of disrepair, highlighted by mud floors and crumbling walls. In partnership with Connect Real Estate, each of the trolley buildings is being revitalized and repurposed. The Beer Hall has retained all of its original character, with plenty of modern additions. Beth Bean spearheaded the interior remodel, working with local vendors like A Carpenter's Son, the Plant Gays, and Fortner for the design and decorating. →

Story Design by Victoria Smith

By Laura Hennigan / Photos by Aaron Massey

↑ Columbus Brewing Company Interior

Situated across the street from the East Market, the Beer Hall is an expansive, 13,000 square foot space, housing multiple bars and dining areas, including a back room for private events and a large outdoor patio. One of its biggest distinctions from the original CBC Brewhouse is the massive kitchen, which turns out an extensive and eclectic food menu. Inspired by their travels, the Beans have added distinctive dishes including kimchi pancakes, elote fritters, tikka masala, and bulgogi cheesesteak. “Our beef is from The Butcher & Grocer, and our cheese is from Blue Jacket Dairy. We’re trying to source as much locally as possible,” continues Magliocca. The brewhouse is much smaller than the original location, which will allow the team to experiment with more specialized offerings and ingredients in smaller batches. There will be specific brews that are exclusive to the beer hall on a monthly basis, such as the new Kelton Pale Ale that was created for the grand opening. →

CBC is excited to be a part of the Olde Towne East and Franklin Park neighborhoods, and is looking forward to forging new relationships and collaborations with the community. Future plans include beer pairing dinners, partnerships with East Market vendors, and hosting local experiences in the spacious back room. “It’s a great gathering place for people to get together and have a good time, in an To learn more, visit columbusbrewing.com

area that doesn’t really have as many hospitality groups as say, High Street,” shares Magliocca. “It’s been great to finally get the doors open, after so long in the making. We’re thrilled to be in the area and see a diverse, local crowd coming in to support it. It's awesome to see everyone there having such a good time.” ♦

Story Design by Atlas Biro

By Jim Fischer / Photos by Jen Brown

Speck a

in the pan

Star Columbus chef Josh Dalton showcases culinaryskill,restless creativityatthehighly-anticipated DowntownhomeofSpeckItalianEatery

Josh Dalton isn’t trying to compete with your Italian grandmother.

That was never Dalton’s intention with Speck Italian Eatery, either in its original iteration in Delaware (a space Dalton considers his “culinary incubator”) or in its recently-reopened and relocated space in Downtown Columbus.

The standout Columbus chef, who also gave us Veritas, the elevated smallplates-and-cocktails restaurant on Gay Street Downtown (Veritas also incubated in Delaware – Dalton is currently operating Cove, A Seafood Joint there) simply believed there was an opportunity to offer a fresh take on a familiar style.

“American-Italian has been done and done well but it’s been done the same,” Dalton said in an interview inside Speck. “This is my interpretation of Italian (dining). I wanted super bright colors and fun flavors, simply done with good ingredients, finished off with some nice olive oil, nice cheeses.

“With anything I’m cooking, it’s what I like to eat, plus I like to get a little creative,” he said.

None of which is to say the Speck menu eschews pastas and sauces – pomodoro, sausage, crab and vegetarian options all get innovative treatment. Dishes featuring chicken and shellfish and a variety of salads, starters and desserts can be found on the Speck menu, with some offerings specific to lunch or dinner. →

"I wanted bright colors and fun flavors, simply done with good ingredients"

that’s going to continue. I hope to always be evolving.”

He cited an octopus dish and a citrus salad that he intends to add to the menu soon as examples of Speck’s altered offerings.

except ‘Is it delicious?’ and ‘Are we proud to serve it?’ I want our guests to leave here, after an hour-and-a-half or two hours, having their minds taken off their day-today and feeling ecstatic about their food experience,” Dalton said.

Dalton maintains a presence in his kitchen despite having the added responsibilities that come with ownership. That presence, he said, is for his staff, so they can learn how he cooks and what his expectations are, but also for himself.

to leave here... feeling ecstatic about their food experience."

“My entire life revolves around restaurants, around eating and drinking,” Dalton said. “The things I love in life are what I do.”

And there’s still more to come from Dalton, who at press time was close to opening a French bistro concept in the former Cafe Brioso location on Gay Street. The chef, who recently turned 40, said he doesn’t intend to stop there.

“I have more ideas, more concepts, than I have staffing or funding for,” he said. “But it’s time to make some things happen.”

Sounds like Dalton plans to keep himself busy, at least until he’s your Italian grandmother’s age. ♦

To learn more, visit speckrestaurant.com

↑ Inside Speck Italian Eatery

By Molly Hammond

As a produce manager for a local Columbus grocer in the 1950s, Chuck and Janet Ward dreamed of owning their own grocery store one day. On September 4th, 1966, they purchased a local store and renamed it “Chuck’s Little Giant”—what is now known to locals today as Little Italy Ristorante.

Chuck’s Little Giant started out as a downtown staple, selling hand-cut butcher selections, fresh produce and household items. The couple raised their family in a little home next to the grocery store, where friends, family and employees helped define the culture that the locals gush over at Little Italy today.

Little Italy makes all of its pasta, pizza dough, dressings, sauces and meatballs in house every day. The meatballs are a huge hit with the Columbus community and Janet’s recipes continue to shine through in today’s dishes 44 years later.

The local pizza company specializes in bringing the finest, simplest ingredients (including garlic, butter, cream and parmesan) together to create bestselling dishes. →

After 45 years in the same spot, this historic Groveport pizzeria is finally set up in its flashy new home

Photos by Aaron Massey

Story Design by Atlas Biro

↓ Interior, Little Italy ↑

“Our customers love our house-made Alfredo dishes,” says Avery Ward, CEO at Little Italy and grandson of Chuck and Janet. “Our Threezo pizza has become a favorite with the locals and includes two types of pepperoni and sausage from local sausage company, Ezzo.”

Today’s pizza business was not always a part of the Ward family, though. In the 1980s, the family purchased a small pizza shop and while large supermarkets started to push Chuck’s Little Giant out of business, the pizza business was bringing success to the small family. Eventually, Chuck and Janet moved the pizza shop to where Chuck’s Little Giant resided and dove head-first into the pizza-making business.

Nick Ward, son of Chuck and Janet, took over the business in the late 80s and put the business on a new path for growth. He expanded dine-in and catering options and grew the business as he knew it with the same core values instilled in the business by his parents.

Today, the company remains a favorite in Groveport and beyond. Working with his father Nick, CEO Avery Ward, continues to use the values passed down by his grandparents and father to shape everything he does—from family recipes to giving back to the community.

“Pizza is all about bringing people together when you think about it,” says Avery. “The real fun happens when it’s shared by many—that moment when the pizza is placed on the table and eager hands appear from every direction.” →

"Pizza is all about bringing people together"

Success in the pizza business has not always come easily to the local restaurant, though. COVID-19 presented its own set of challenges to the business but also planted ideas of growth in the family’s head.

“We were lucky to be a primary choice for customers during the pandemic, as many wanted to order simple, tasty meals to get by during stay-at-home orders,” explained Avery. “We had already implemented delivery services pre-pandemic, which led us to create systems and processes to keep up with the growth we were experiencing.”

During its pandemic growth, it became clear to the Little Italy staff that more space was needed to accommodate the influx of customers. What was once ample space for his father and grandparents, Avery decided was not cutting it anymore. After 44 years in the same building, Little Italy Ristorante served its last customers and reopened on Super Bowl Sunday in a new building at 480 Main St. in Groveport. The new location is 5,268 square feet and includes outdoor dining, a bar and a hand-dipped ice cream shop.

↓ Chicken Alfredo Pizza & Cheese Ravioli, Little Italy

Partnering with M+A Design, the interior of the new location pays homage to the old store in many areas and pays tribute to the locals and city of Groveport.

“Our community is a huge part of us,” Avery explained. “We know so many people who enter our doors on a first name basis. My dad always told me that the most important thing in business is getting to know your customers. I think that's a major factor that sets us apart. We care tremendously for each of our customers and community, they have truly become a part of our family.” ♦

To view the menu, order ahead, or check restaurant hours, visit littleitalygroveport.com

↑ Jewel Tomato Bruschetta, Little Italy

POWERED

It’s spring, Columbus, and this year, instead of highlighting plants as side dishes, we’ve decided to bring you a handful of the city’s best meatless dishes that are easily mistaken for their meatcontaining counterparts. We’ve included a handful of the city’s best menu items that are one-hundred percent free of any and all meat.

From soul food to soulful pizza, check out eight of the city’s irreplaceable meatless dishes that you might mistake for the real thing

By Jack McLaughlin

Story Design by Atlas Biro

Seitan's Realm

For Seitan’s Realm owners Amber Ridenbaugh and Kevin Ridenbaugh, it all started with a gyro.

Kevin explains that, after creating a seitan-based gyro sandwich for himself, he knew he was onto something. And it didn’t take long for Columbus to be onto it all the same.

The vegan deli concept first launched as a food truck in 2019, and not even 18 months later opened a Clintonville brick and mortar of its own. The Italian Stallion (pictured on the cover of this issue) is a hearty, vegan take on the classic Italian sub. The Beeef N’ Cheeduh, along with its take on the classic Reuben, are two other can’t-miss options.

Our pick: The Italian Stallion $12

↑ (Left to Right) Rick Reuben, Italian Stallion, & Loaded Fries, Seitan's Realm, Photo by Sarah Pfiefer

↓ Rich Boi with Fries, Photo courtesy of Willoubeez SoulVeg

Willoubeez SoulVeg

While many North Market spots (Hoyo’s and Momo Ghar come to mind), there are likely none as enticingly meat-y as Willoubeez SoulVeg. This family owned eatery is operated by Carnell Willoughby and Malik Willoughby, and is serving up their own take on vegan soul food.

One of the eatery’s most popular dishes–the Rich Boi–is a meatless riff on the classic po’ boy sandwich, and could easily pass for the meat-containing version. The sandwich features oyster mushroom that’s breaded and fried, served on a pretzel roll with a rich and tangy remoulade and classic French fries on the side. The sliders, of which a variety are on rotation, are a great pick as well.

Our pick: Rich Boi (with Fries) $14

Ourpick: ChiliCheese Nachos $16

4th & State

The popular downtown spot has the look and feel of a cozy Columbus diner, and even though it’s meatless, its menu still offers the same mouth-watering comfort foods we’d expect. According to owner Chad Goodwin, one of the stars of the show is their handful of burger variations, including the Americana, Jalapeno Cheddar, Big Brunchy and more. The toppings change, but what doesn’t is their Beyond Meat vegan patty, which provides a texture and taste that’s as convincing as they come.

According to Goodwin, the burger has been good enough to introduce loads of meat-eaters to the and world of vegan fare cuisine, and good enough to keep vegans coming back for more.

$13 Our pick: Americana Burger

Woodhouse Vegan

Just because Vegan is in the name, don’t let that make you think some of their dishes don’t look and taste just as good (if not better) than some of their meat-containing counterparts.

The eatery, which makes everything in-house, has two locations under the same name, although one (Italian Village) operates as a lunch and dinner spot, and the other (Short North) focuses on breakfast, baked goods and coffee:

But before we go any further, we need to talk about their Chili Cheese Nachos. Featuring tortilla chips with creamy jalapeno nacho cheese, fire-roasted meatless chili, cashew sour cream and fresh jalapenos, this is not a dish to be missed. Did we mention your toppings are all separately packaged if you order to-go?

↓ Chili Cheese Nachos, Photo courtesy of Woodhouse Vegan

Preston's: A Burger Joint

You mean to tell me that the Columbus eatery known for stacking smash burgers has great meatless options too? You’re darn right. This one isn’t a burger, but Preston’s has a few new tricks up its sleeve following the grand opening of its new Clintonville location. One of these is a brand-new item for the concept’s new storefront: Crispy Mushroom Nuggets. These deep-fried veggie nuggets look pretty chicken-y too, and they taste just as good (plus they pair well with any of the eatery’s top-notch dipping sauces).

The Crispy Lion’s Mane Mushroom Sandwich is also a winner.

Our pick: 8-piece Mushroom Nuggets

Portia's Cafe

Even though Portia’s Diner (the sister restaurant to Portia’s Cafe) has turned from a brick and mortar space into a food truck, Portia’s Cafe continues to serve the meatless fare that made it a popular name in Clintonville.

Also known for vegan pizza and other diner fare, the eatery’s range of Quesadillas are a fun and flavorful riff on the classic. You can opt for quesadillas with just Daiya cheeze, or customize from a variety of ingredients. Portia’s Cafe even offers speciality options, like the Thanksgiving Quesadilla and the Pizzadilla.

Our pick: Quesadilla

↑ Quesadilla, Photo courtesy of Portia's Cafe

↑ Mushroom Nugget, Fries, & Dipping Sauce, Photo courtesy of Preston's: A Burger Joint

Katzinger’s Delicatessen

Sure, Katzinger’s Delicatessen can pile corned beef to the ceiling in their classic Reubens, but that doesn’t mean they’re incapable of making a great meatless option.

While the longstanding German Village (and Dublin) deli offers a handful of sandwiches without meat, if you’re in the mood for a lunch with a refreshing Mediterranean twist, look no further than Fred’s Jazzy Peta Treata. The veganfriendly sandwich combines homemade hummus, cucumbers, spinach, tomato and Kalamata olives on whole grain bread.

Seth’s Bella MushReuben is also a fun take on the eatery’s ever-popular Reuben, swapping out corned beef for marinated portobello slices.

Our pick: Fred’s Jazzy Peta Treata $11.95

Off Center Patio & Pub

Last but not least, Off Center Patio & Pub is changing the meatless pizza game in Columbus. While the unique Hilliard eatery (cleverly named for its location just off Center Street and its meatless tendencies) also operates as a Puerto Rican Restaurant—try the Mofongo and Trifongo— it’s also well-known in vegan and vegetarian circles for its pizza.

And honestly, there are so many good options that it’s difficult to pick just one, but the Impossible Sausage is (as you might have guessed) loaded with handfuls of ground Impossible Sausage, is impossibly good. Try the Bianca for a white sauce pie, or the Veggie to go all-in on the meatless train.

Our pick: 14" Impossible Sausage Pizza $20

↑ Fred’s Jazzy Peta Treata, Photo courtesy of Katzinger's Delicatessen

By Melinda Green

And now, for something completely different.

It's a crisp, clear Tuesday night, and gathered around a table in Marysville’s otherwise deserted Walking Distance Brewing Co. are five amateur bagpipers, rolling through tunes on their practice chanters.

A disco ball spins slowly overhead in the renovated carriage shop, its white reflections drifting like snowflakes on the ceiling. On a nearby table, Rock Em Sock Em Robots stand poised to rumble. Off to the side, a poster covered in red X’s tracks the fate of the few remaining contestants on The Bachelor.

Walking Distance is a brewery focused around community and a warm sense of whimsy. There’s an old bingo board overhead (which is actually used for bingo), vintage board games, and a few heavily upholstered chairs in a corner. Their raspberry ale is called “THBBFT”—the sound of a razzberry.

And, as you bask for a moment in that welcoming vibe, one of the pipers looks over and asks you, "So—how many embryonic pipe bands have you met?"

Exactly zero, until now.

Teddy Valinski, co-owner of Walking Distance, played bagpipes in high school, and, as you might expect after meeting him and hanging out in the taproom for half an hour, the origin of his passion turns out to be pretty comical.

As a five-year-old in New Jersey, watching Hillary Clinton rise to political prominence, Teddy set a goal: He wanted to be the first woman President. “The logical step was that I would have to wear dresses, but my mom didn’t want me getting bullied,” he explained. He realized playing bagpipes was also a way to wear a “skirt,” and decided that’s what he was going to do. “It took ten years, and at that point, I realized I didn’t want to be a politician or a woman,” he recalled. “But I still wanted to play bagpipes.”

Now, Teddy works for AEP. He learned the foundations of brewing as an electrical engineering student at the University of Pittsburgh and, with the help of co-owner Doug Olsen, opened Walking Distance as a side project in October 2021. →

Story Design by Victoria Smith

Photos by Jordy Middlebrooks

↓ Ewan Hamilton plays the bagpipes

It wasn’t long before another goal crossed his mind.

“St. Patrick’s is my favorite holiday,” he said. “I wanted to go big, because Covid had just happened. ‘I’ll play the bagpipes every hour,’ I thought.” It forced him to practice again, but something else happened as well—something completely unintended.

A handful of people were intrigued and asked him, “How’d you learn?”

“It just kind of snowballed from there,” he recalled. A week or so later, he put out a survey

to Walking Distance’s followers: “If you want to learn to play bagpipes, fill this form out.”

And people did.

Three of those people, all adventurous, middle-aged women and former clarinet players, practice in the Tuesday night group regularly. Others drop in as they’re able. And they have a second leader, now, too.

Ewan Hamilton also played the bagpipes as a teenager in his native Scotland. But last year, he’d become a patron at Walking Distance, while, coincidentally, his wife had

been pressuring him to play again. After a few months of consideration, he, too, joined the group and is passing on the knowledge he gained in his youth.

“[Ewan]’s been a very good leader for us,” Jennifer Dutter said. “Not that Teddy’s not, but this is a whole other level.”

Teddy estimates he was a Grade 5 bagpiper, while Ewan was a Grade 2—the highest level of amateur. “When Ewan showed up, I was better than him… for like two weeks,” Teddy said, laughing.

↓ Walking Distance Exterior

Ewan describes playing bagpipes as “a pseudo-physical ordeal.” There’s breath control, strength, and coordination that can’t be learned from YouTube videos. Plus, “Every little blip is spoken for.” There’s no improvisation in traditional bagpipe playing. Each tiny embellishment in the melody (and there are dozens) is dictated on the page. It’s complicated, and beginners have to take the time to break it all down into easily digestible steps.

“Nobody learns how to play the bagpipes by themselves,” Ewan admitted. “How to Learn Bagpipes in Ten Easy Steps—that doesn’t happen.”

Teddy started Walking Distance’s band with the goal of being fully up and running in two years, which is an ambitious timeline, given the complexity of the instrument and the time to learn. At almost a year in, things are going well. Amy Frank and Jennifer are awaiting delivery of new pipes from Edinburgh. Lisa Swiatek was fortunate to find a set of good used pipes and was trying them out for the first time.

So how do they rehearse, without pipes? Well, that’s what practice chanters are for. Highland bagpipes have a single volume: Just Shy of Deafening. Even a pipe chanter alone, with its reed and finger holes for making different pitches, is really loud. Practice chanters have the same holes but a different mouthpiece and reed setup, to produce a volume that’s more bearable for everyday work. Plus, it’s an affordable way to get started.

“It’s been really good for me. Even though I’m here with my good friend [Lisa], I’m making good friends,” Jennifer said. “It’s been nice to find new, fun things to do.”

So, while Walking Distance continues to turn out craft beers, the community's "embryonic pipe band" is beginning to perform in some capacity on its home turf. Teddy's even having the brewery's stick-figure logo updated to hold bagpipes.

Unexpected? Maybe. But, once you visit Walking Distance, it's not at all surprising. ♦

To learn more, visit walkingdistance.beer

Ben Long, owner of Hereinafter Cocktail Tavern →

By Shelby Metzger · Photos

Jordy Middlebrooks Story

Patterson

Buckeye Lake, a village located roughly 30 miles outside Columbus, Ohio, is revered as a coveted vacation destination known for its leisurely ambiance and water-side activities. Previously, the dining options mainly consisted of casual locations, toting bar food and live music. However, with the introduction of two new, upscale restaurants and bars – Blue Heron and Hereinafter Cocktail Tavern – the tides in this lake town are changing. →

From upscale options to craft cocktails, the Buckeye Lake area is beginning to put itself on the culinary map

by

Design by Bryce

Blue Heron Kitchen & Pub, located on 10880 Mill Dam Rd., had its grand opening on Feb. 22 and is one of the area’s latest elevated dining locations. A nautical-inspired environment, Blue Heron boasts American dishes and water-themed entrees, all crafted using fresh produce and ingredients. According to managing partner Marnita Swickard, the restaurant seats 115 guests inside its waterinspired dining room, and will seat approximately 40 more following the opening of their courtyard this spring. A patio area is also set to open later this year, offering the opportunity for outdoor games and socializing.

Thanks to the creation of Blue Heron, those in the area with dietary restrictions, or anyone craving a bite of anything that hasn’t been dropped in the fryer, now have options.

“Most of the food out here is bar food, a lot of fried food,” Swickard said. “And I…have always said it would just be nice if we had something a little closer that was healthier, and healthier options. We have gluten-free options, we have vegetarian options.” →

A nautical-inspired environment, Blue Heron boasts American dishes and water-themed entrees, all crafted using fresh produce and ingredients.

Dining

A short drive west along the north shore of Buckeye Lake will lead the culinarily-inclined to the recently-opened Hereinafter Cocktail Tavern. An upscale gastropub - the combination of a fine dinery and a bar - prides itself as yet another example of the Buckeye Lake area’s transforming culinary scene.

“The cocktail tavern, in my mind, is essentially a gastro pub with cocktails as the chief selling proposition,” Ben Long, owner of Hereinafter, said.

The tavern, hosting a sleek, modern interior, opened in December 2022. Located at 3430 N. Bank Rd., it seats approximately 90, with 14-16 patrons at the bar and the remainder at tables. The menu boasts Southern comfort food, specifically New Orleans-inspired food, including Cuban shrimp and grits, gumbo and jambalaya. The concept of a gastropub is a new addition to the area, and will offer residents and vacationers a modern, innovative location to enjoy fine dinery and refreshments.

“I worked for April Bloomfield, who ran kind of New York’s first titled gastropub, or at least modern era gastro pub, and that showed me that running a small plate gastropub as opposed to a restaurant gave her a lot longer hours, and she was able to stay open but never had reservations but had lines out the door past midnight,” Long said. “So, I wanted to bring that same sort of concept to Buckeye Lake and Ohio in general.”

Dedicated to creating the coldest, cleanest cocktails, Hereinafter utilizes ice cut from their own 200 pound blocks into cubes sized perfectly for your glass. The idea, according to Long, is simple.

“Get things measured accurately and get them really cold,” he said.

Craft cocktails aren’t yet a Buckeye Lake staple the way wings, pizza and beer have been for decades. Long aims to fill this niche, making perfectly-crafted cocktails available for everyone in the area in a similar way to how the lake’s popular yet casual restaurants and bars are already incorporated into the atmosphere.

“From my perspective, I wanted to take a cocktail and fit it into Buckeye Lake in that same manner. I call it democratizing cocktails,” he said. “It’s kind of making them part of the common theme again, and I think that’s what they were 100 years ago.”

Assisted by the opening of both Blue Heron and Hereinafter, Buckeye Lake has begun to transform into an up-and-coming culinary location. Both businesses are filling a void in the area, offering a fresh set of high-end eatery options and giving lakegoers choices beyond bar-style grub.

“It was a no-brainer for us to pick this type of concept,” Swickard said. "We knew the lake needed it.”

The cocktail tavern, in my mind, is essentially a gastro pub with cocktails as the chief selling proposition...

Long, who grew up vacationing at Buckeye Lake during the summer months as a child, has been witness to the changes in the area over the years.

“I wasn’t around, I was in New York and D.C. when the lake went through it’s down period when it got drained, and a lot of peoples’ property values went down. So, I never got that depressing side of things of the lake,” he said. “And when I moved back after the pandemic… Buckeye Lake seemed like a great place to do it and I just ignored the rest. I think it’s coming back hard, I think I may have lucked out a little bit.”

In a town that hasn’t seen a wide variation of eatery options in recent years, both locals and travelers alike have jumped at the chance to try the new conceptions. Blue Heron’s soft launch was well-received, according to Swickard, and Long described Hereinafter as a success, and a much-needed diversification. Both were anxious to offer the town a freshly-plated concept.

“I think it’s just offering something more,” Swickard said. “If we’re someone’s first stop for a great meal, and then they go to the bars to listen to live music, it’s a win-win for everybody.”

Long described similar results in response to the introduction of Hereinafter.

“The overwhelming sentiment is, this is great for the lake, we’re super excited for you, and they’re happy to see a great cocktail place. They’re happy to see different things,” he said. “They’re loving the diversity, for sure, of restaurants coming into the area, its been overwhelmingly a positive response to the concept so far.”

Buckeye Lake has seen its fair share of trials and tribulations, and was not immune to the hardships of the pandemic. But these contemporary developments to the bar and resturant scene may just be the spice this small town has needed.

“Buckeye Lake is definitely coming back and is a cool place to be again,” Long said. “Just like it was when I was a kid.”

To learn more about Hereinafter, visit hereinaftercocktailtavern.com

To learn more about Blue Heron, visit theblueheronkp.com

Dining room of the Hereinafter Cocktail Tavern ↑

By Shelby Metzger

It’s almost summer, Ohio. Time to break out the flip-flops and dust off the margarita glasses after these long winter months. After making it through the snow, rain and dusky skies, we all deserve a vacation. But while the Buckeye State has its appeals, you may have considered crossing a few state lines to relax and reset. If you’re looking for quaint drinkeries, mouth-watering grub, and stunning scenery, look no further – Pittsburgh checks all your boxes. Take a trip east of the (Ohio) border and check out some of these featured locations.

Story Design by Victoria Smith

Whether you’re searching for a casual night on the town or itching to take a tour of the Steel City’s most extravagant culinary offerings, Pittsburgh can fill a niche for any traveler. Be sure to make time for breakfast at Pamela’s Diner, a treasured Pittsburgh breakfast joint with five locations across the city. Pamela’s boasts mouth-watering crepe-style pancakes and a delectable array of all your favorite classic breakfast options.

After filling up on pancakes, fresh coffee may be calling your name. Commonplace

Coffee has four locations across the city, offering crisp pastries and expertly crafted cups-o-joe. Or, walk over to one of De Fer Coffee & Tea’s three locations, all right on the river, for a sip of freshly-roasted beans.

After letting things digest by taking a stroll of the city, it may be time for lunch. Located in the heart of the Cultural District on 7th Street, Proper Brick Oven & Tap Room is an independently owned woodfired pizza joint and bar, offering as many high-quality, handcrafted pizzas as you can eat. →

↑ Breakfast at Pamela's Diner,

Photo courtesy Pamela's Diner

Commonplace

Coffee, photo by Commonplace →

↑ Proper Brick Oven Pizza,

Photo by Proper Brick Oven

Or, if you’re feeling a sandwich instead of a pie? Primanti Bros. offers the same comically-large sandwiches (stuffed with french fries) that they have since 1933.

Not ready to turn in yet? If you fancy a visit to one of Pittsburgh’s new-age cocktail bars, Lorelei in East Liberty has got you covered. A wine and cocktail room attached to a beer hall with 16 taps, patrons can enjoy anything from a large selection of Alpine-based cocktails to a crispy pint of beer. Not to mention their woodfired pizza, if you still have the munchies.

If you’re looking for something more upscale, Ritual House in the Union Trust building on William Penn Place. A luxurious, intricately designed interior paired with Pittsburgh-inspired fine dining will leave you lusting for a return visit.

It’s been a full day of eats and treats, but it’s finally time to sit down for dinner. Take a short walk across Allegheny River to Alphabet City on North Avenue for a culinary experience with their awardwinning executive chef Bethany Zozula. A classy and upbeat environment, make sure to check out their lamb special that week, or enjoy one of their multiple vegetarian options.

Looking for a more casual spot? The colorful Hidden Harbor in Squirrel Hill will fill all of your Tiki bar needs. Or, if the high-end experience is more your speed, Bridges & Bourbon on Penn Avenue offers both classic cocktails and in-house creations – they might even throw in a dash of pyrotechnics to cement your sophisticated sipping escapades. No need to stick around Ohio this summer –Pittsburgh has a little something for everyone! ♦

Or, if you’re looking for a kid-friendly experience, try Back to the Foodture in Uptown, a Black-owned, Back to the Future-themed restaurant. Rife with burgers and all flavors of wings, the interior is filled with fun for all ages, including pool tables, pinball machines and murals of popular cartoon characters.

↑ Food at Ritual House (left), photo courtesy Ritual House

↑ Tiki Drink at Hidden Harbor, photo courtesy Hidden Harbor

← Cocktails at Lorelei, photo courtesy Lorelei

Burger at Back to the Foodture, photo by Back to the Foodture →

Food at Primanti Bros (right), photo courtesy Primanti Bros ↓