F R E E
SHOREBREAK! Photo: Danny Sepkowski
V 1 6 # 9
©2019 Vans, Inc.
F R E E
P A R K I N G
Photo: Alika Lopes Every now and then an organic and impressive image comes along the photo editor's computer that is simple, yet stunning. This is one of those rare images. Sometimes magic is right there in front of everyone's eyes but only some dare to capture a compelling image of it, often with risk to themselves and their camera gear along the way. This issue is dedicated to Hawaiian shorebreak documentation—a dangerous but rewarding creative venue for the few who dare. To all the shorebreak warriors out there: we respectfully salute you.
One
eil
ELI OLSON T H E H Y P E R F R E A K ™ S - S E A M B O A R D S H O RT O ’ N E I L L I N C . 2 0 1 9 | U S . O N E I L L . C O M | P H O T O G R A P H Y: Q U I N N M AT T H E W S
T A B L E
O F
C O N T E N T S
06 Free Parking 14 Editor's Note 16 News & Events 24 Community 26 Waco Review 32 Pau Hana 38 Talk Story 42 Best of Summer 24 Community 54 Shorebreak Madness 68 Wahine 72 Grom Report 76 Stuff We Like 80 Industry Notes 82 Last Look
Lauren Baer Photo: Connor Trimble
AVA I L A B L E AT D E J A V U S H O P S
ELI OLSON T H E H Y P E R F R E A K ™ S - S E A M B O A R D S H O RT O ’ N E I L L I N C . 2 0 1 9 | U S . O N E I L L . C O M | P H O T O G R A P H Y: S C O T T Y H A M M O N D S
Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Managing Editor Shannon Reporting Associate Editor Andrew Oliver Photo Director gOnzo Art Director John Weaver Social Media Manager Shannon Reporting Contributing Writers gOnzo, Alexandra Kahn, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting, Brian Bielmann, Ben Marcus, Keoki Saguibo, Melanie Williams, Mara Pyzel Copy Editor Mara Pyzel
West Coast Distribution Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128 East Coast Distribution Eastern Surf Supply (808) 638-7395 Hawai`i Distribution All Islands (808) 638-7395 Staff Shooters Landon Hayashi, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, Jake Zielinski Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Mike Chlala, Mike Ito, Ryan Miller, Neal Miyake, John Hook, Matt Ord, Tommy Pieruck, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Andy Hawes, Alexandra Kahn, Zak Noyle, Sebastian Rojas, Keoki Saguibo Business Administration Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395 Follow us on social media @ freesurfmag
F R E E
SHOREBREAK!
Watch on Channel 12, or 1012 HD in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv THU 9:30pm Premiere FRI 3:30am & 4:30pm SAT 9:30am & 9:00pm SUN 3:00am & 10:30am MON 1:00pm TUE 9:30am & 4:30pm WED 6:00am
Photo: Danny Sepkowski
V 1 6 # 9
FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712
E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2019
Let our family take care of your family Lunch
Sunday Brunch Buffet
Happy Hour
Live Entertainment
Dinner
Nicos Kailua 970 N Kalaheo Ave, Kailua, HI 808-263-3787 nicoskailua.com
E D I T O R ' S
One could argue that Hawaiian shorebreak, in particular, is one of the most vicious and ferocious of Earth’s energy sources - a spectacle to behold as backwash and swell collide producing explosions whose loud echo reaches deep into the valley. They serve as a reminder of the sheer power the ocean has to greatly humble us all.
This issue of Freesurf Magazine is dedicated to the artists who brave the heaviest of shorebreaks to share a rare perspective from inside the eye of the tornado. We highlight elite creators who have captivated us and left us wanting more—from a safe distance, of course. The respect we have for shorebreak shooters and their extreme craft of water photography runs deep here at Freesurf. We have no doubt you’ll appreciate skimming these pages for a healthy dose of salty stoke.
Aloha, Shannon Reporting Managing Editor
Danny Sepkowski
Artists crave inspiration from all corners of the earth, endlessly seeking their muse. Mother Nature is full of these sources of creativity. Her dynamic color palette and infinite mana splash shades of blues and greens in the ocean. She churns water into a frothy, creamy foam that washes between our toes, drawing fluid lines on the canvas of sandy shores moving in and out with the tide.
N O T E
FIND REFUGE IN THE SEA
N E W S
&
E V E N T S
Sage Erickson and Yago Dora Victorious at Vans US Open of Surfing Presented by Swatch
Sage Erickson of the USA and Yago Dora of Brazil are the winners of the 2019 VANS US Open Photo by Kenny Morris/WSL via Getty Images
HUNTINGTON BEACH, California/USA (Sunday, August 4, 2019) - The Vans US Open of Surfing presented by Swatch, a World Surf League (WSL) Men’s and Women’s Qualifying Series (QS) 10,000 event, crowned Sage Erickson (USA)and Yago Dora (BRA) its respective winners in solid, three-to-five foot (1 - 1.7 metre) swell with their aweinspiring performances all week that culminated in massive wins.
defeating CT veteran Malia Manuel (HAW) and former Vans US Open winner Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) along the way. “To be home in California, have a heat against Courtney and to be 10,000 -- it’s more than just points,” Erickson added. “It’s equal pay, it’s a prime, it’s a lot for us women and a big shout out to Jessi (MileyDyer) for believing in our sport and to Sophie (Goldschmidt) leading the WSL as a strong woman.”
The 2019 women’s event marked a historic milestone for the QS with the first-ever QS 10,000 and equal prize money at the Vans US Open. Erickson claimed the all-California Final over defending event winner Courtney Conlogue (USA)in incredible fashion with one of the day’s best performances -- a 15.43 (out of a possible 20) heat total. The Ojai native’s backhand went to work while sitting in second place and smashed an excellent 8.17 (out of a possible 10) to push herself in the lead and leave Conlogue in need of an 8.90 for the remainder of the Final.
The high-flying antics of Dora came firing right out of the gates on finals day with the day’s top single-scoring wave of a near-perfect 9.27 after soaring through the air and landing it smoothly. The Brasilian CT elite had to overcome one of the Vans US Open’s most insatiable dark horses to date, Liam O’Brien (AUS). Dora’s excellent 8.60 on yet another massive air-reverse before shooting through the pier to finish it off in the Final ultimately sealed his first-ever QS 10,000 victory.
“I shed a lot of tears when I came in from the water and I just want to say this is dedicated to my grandma who passed two weeks ago,” Erickson said. “It’s crazy how it takes someone to leave for everything they’re about to really set in. A lot of the lessons and things she believed in me, I have to speak over myself here for a second for her and it’s just about the people you value in your life. Whether it’s your friends or your family or even the people you can make a mark on and encourage.”
“It feels so incredible right now and I just want to thank everyone who showed up today -- it’s just amazing to surf in front of a huge crowd,” Dora said. “It gets me fired up to do my best and that’s what I did today. I gave everything I had and it worked out for me. I just want to congratulate all the finalists and especially Liam, he’s been surfing amazing.” This win skyrockets Dora 46 spots to No. 4 on the QS ranks and in a position to secure his CT spot for 2020 heading into a vital back-half of 2019. The 23-year-old decimated the hopes of now QS No. 1 Jorgann Couzinet's(FRA) opportunity of separating himself from the pack in
Erickson had to deal with an all-star cast to get to the Final that truly showed the importance of this event with the competitors involved -16
Sage Erickson Photo by Jenny Herron/WSL via Getty Images
the Semifinals and surviving a scare from former CT competitor Alex Ribiero (BRA) in the Quarterfinals. Now, the Brasilian sets his eyes on Tahiti for one of the CT’s most sought-after events. “We had waves for nine days which is amazing for Huntington (laughs),” Dora added. “I came out of my house with a goal to win this event and I did it. I can’t even explain how happy I am right now.” The women’s all-American Final had the crowd roaring for hometown hero Conlogue with every turn as she hoped to claim an unprecedented back-to-back title. But, it wasn’t meant to be with Erickson in dominating form throughout finals day that forced Conlogue into attempting hail mary airs toward the end of the heat.
Though a runner-up was disappointing for the Santa Ana, California, native, her explosive air-reverse in Quarterfinal Heat 1 against phenom Caroline Marks (USA) started the day off in amazing fashion that carried through to the end and the recent Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame inductee can carry this momentum forward. “This week has been incredible and anytime I have the chance to perform in front of my hometown it’s just very special,” Conlogue said. “I’m really happy for Sage, it was really well-deserved and a fun Final. Thanks so much to everyone who came down to cheer us on.” The Vans US Open can provide a platform for surfers to make their names known and Burleigh Heads, Australia’s, O'Brien did just that
Yago Dora Photo by Jenny Herron/ WSL via Getty Images
Alex Ribeiro Photo by Kenny Morris/WSL via Getty Images
Vans US Open of Surfing pres. by Swatch Women’s Final Results: 1 - Sage Erickson (USA) 15.40 10,000 points 2 - Courtney Conlogue (USA) 12.93 8,000 points
with jaw-dropping performances. O’Brien helped eliminate event favorite, hometown hero and back-to-back defending event winner, Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) and CT competitor Jack Freestone (AUS) just two days prior before taking down Barron Mamiya (HAW) in the Quarterfinals and California’s last hope Griffin Colapinto (USA) in the Semifinals today.
Vans US Open of Surfing by Swatch Men’s Final Results: 1 - Yago Dora (BRA) 16.03 10,000 points 2 - Liam O'Brien (AUS) 11.34 8,000 points
O’Brien will now look to finish the season off competing in the QS 10,000s and currently finds himself in a qualification position.
Vans US Open of Surfing by Swatch Women’s Semifinal Results: SF 1: Courtney Conlogue (USA) 12.86 DEF. Brisa Hennessy (CRI) 11.36 SF 2: Sage Erickson (USA) 16.33 DEF. Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 12.83
“I’m ecstatic and it still feels so surreal to be standing here, I don’t even feel like I’m supposed to be here to be honest (laughs),” O’Brien said. “I’m so thankful for this opportunity and to come as far as I did and can’t say thank you enough for everyone coming down. To make it through some of the heats I did, I can’t believe it. I’ll keep working to improve my surfing as much as I can and to be into the QS 10,000s heading is such an amazing feeling so I’m just really grateful.”
Vans US Open of Surfing by Swatch Men’s Semifinal Results: SF 1: Yago Dora (BRA) 14.77 DEF. Alex Ribeiro (BRA) 14.16 SF 2: Liam O'Brien (AUS) 13.50 DEF. Griffin Colapinto (USA) 10.77 Vans US Open of Surfing by Swatch Women’s Q/final Results: QF 1: Courtney Conlogue (USA) 14.43 DEF. Caroline Marks (USA) 14.10 QF 2: Brisa Hennessy (CRI) 12.86 DEF. Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 8.93 QF 3: Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 14.16 DEF. Bronte Macaulay (AUS) 11.73 QF 4: Sage Erickson (USA) 11.36 DEF. Malia Manuel (HAW) 8.83
Alongside the surfing, the Vans US Open of Surfing also hosts skateboarding and BMX competitions alongside authentic community activations and artful entertainment in Surf City USA. Recognized as the largest professional sports competition and action sports festival in the world, the Vans US Open of Surfing presented by Swatch is currently sanctioned and operated by the World Surf League under license from IMG, the event owner. Official partners of this year’s event include Vans, Swatch, Jeep, ULTRA, Red Bull, Jose Cuervo, Barefoot Wine, Hydro Flask, Harley-Davidson, Polo Blue, BF Goodrich, CLIF Bar, and Frontier Communications.
Vans US Open of Surfing by Swatch Men’s Quarterfinal Matchups: QF 1: Alex Ribeiro (BRA) 13.76 DEF. Connor O'Leary (AUS) 13.20 QF 2: Yago Dora (BRA) 16.47 DEF. Jorgann Couzinet (FRA) 15.57 QF 3: Liam O'Brien (AUS) 14.67 DEF. Barron Mamiya (HAW) 13.27 QF 4: Griffin Colapinto (USA) 13.93 DEF. Adriano de Souza (BRA) 11.67
20
The “Striker” is a fuller-outlined hybrid model that allows high-performance surfing on even the smallest of days. The low balanced rocker makes this board fly on the water. A full-nose outline blends into a small bump in the tail, keeping the board up and moving in low power situations. The moderate single to double concave ends in a slight vee running off the tail, allowing the board to easily transition from rail to rail. A must-have board for every surfer’s quiver. Available in squash and swallow tail designs, in 3-fin or 5-fin configurations.
Surfboards & Boardshorts
Kerry Tokoro’s “Mojo” model is a high-performance hybrid design that will keep you surfing fast and dynamic, even in smaller, low-power waves. The bottom rocker is relaxed with an accelerated tail kick, and the single to double concave is noticeably deep. The wide point of the outline is pushed back a bit, creating a narrower nose and a smooth tail curve with very little hip or bump. Ideal for waist to head-high waves, this board gets in and moving quickly. Unlike many hybrids, it drives vertically up the face, into the lip, and beyond. Available in squash, round and swallow tail designs.
“ WA I N U I ” Octo Stretch Boardshort with DWR - Durable Water Repellent
The “Wild Card” is based off of a retro twin-fin design, with a few modifications which cater to the modern-day small wave performer. The relaxed rocker from tip to to tip combined with a mild single to double concave fading off the tail, keeps this groveler skimming across the water with ease. All while feeling li lively, spunky and loose though turns. The full outline produces a stable platform which increases the surface area for drive and lift. This board is perfect for those smaller days and will keep you surfing through even the worst flat spells. Available as a Swallow Tail with a Tri/Quad fin set-up.
ADVANCED COMPOSITE MATRIX
HIC Surfboards Available at: OAHU: Ala Moana Center 808-973-6780, Kailua 808-266-6730, Haleiwa 808-637-0991. MAUI: Lahaina Cannery 808-667-6111. HAWAII ISLAND: Prince Kuhio Plaza 808-959-0442.
www.hicsurf.com
P U E R T O
E S C O N D I D O
C U P
Big Wave Women Prove Puerto Isn’t Just a Boys Club Story and photo by Melanie Williams
On July 15, 2019, six women and 24 men paddled into barrels big enough to fit a semitruck. The Puerto Escondido Cup, hosted by the Surf Open League, was held in waves with faces reaching up to 30 feet! Five of the six female surfers were also competitors in this year’s Peʻahi Challenge at Jaws where Keala Kennelly (HAW) walked away with a world title.
have time to pull my board up on the jet ski.” Breaking a board was a major disappointment for this unsponsored 25-year-old Brazilian charger who had to turn to crowdfunding just to purchase the expensive last-minute plane ticket for the swell. With her only board broken, Raquel paddled back out on a loaner from generous fellow Brazillian competitor, Michaela Fregonese.
“Conditions were way better than Jaws,” said Kennelly, who finished fifth in the Puerto contest.
Fregonese’s campaign ended earlier that day, leaving the event site in an ambulance after suffering a deep laceration to her abdomen when she collided with the board of a fellow competitor who was out of position. She was released from the hospital after 30 stitches and an overnight stay under a doctor’s watch. She is expected to return to the water in six weeks.
“Jaws was survival conditions. This was fun, and I felt good!” commented runner-up finisher Emi Erickson (HAW) after a couple of beautiful frontside tube rides. “It felt really playful out there. It was big and gnarly!” It was only the second time on a quad fin set-up for Erickson, who feels most confident on single-fins. The women put on a spectacular show, complete with the undefeated Puerto Escondido Cup champ, Bianca Valenti (USA) pulling into and getting spit out of massive tubes.
Local Mexican competitor Isabelle Leonhart took third place, making for a very proud hometown of Pascuales, Colima. Leonhart was a major supporter of the equal pay movement that caused quite a stir for this event: “This shall […] spark a chain reaction we really need in our society,” noted Leonhart.
The Mexican state of Oaxaca was very proud to be a major sponsor of this event. Oaxaca is not only the home of the “Mexican Pipeline,” but also offers more than twenty worldclass sand-bottom point breaks.
When this year’s Puerto Escondido Cup contest was first announced, women were scheduled to receive about $0.36 for every $1 the men received. For many of the women, this seemed unacceptable.
Unfortunately, no big wave event would be complete without some collateral damage. After pulling into a backside closeout, Raquel Heckert (BRA) broke her gun during the final, with just eight minutes to go: “I was getting sets on the head over and over. I didn’t even
“Some of the girls were thinking they were going to shine the contest. So I came up with the idea to crowdfund the women’s heat and Bianca pulled the trigger. The people have spoken: they want to see equal pay,” stated Kennelly.
Bianca Valenti
22
It took just over 48 hours to raise their goal of $9,000 for equal prize money and, in all, the campaign reached over $12,400. After taxes and fees, the women were able to contribute an additional $200 to each of the men’s six finalists, as well as buy some equipment for the Puerto Escondido lifeguards. Equal pay has been controversial since raising the prize purse for the women often means taking money away from the men’s purse, something no one wants to see. Yet, none of the women in the event had sponsors paying for travel expenses. They all work other jobs to finance their love of big wave surfing. “I believe equality is a great thing; I don’t know why it’s so hard for people to grasp,” commented Erickson, but she also understands that change takes time: “I believe in the old school way of doing things: show up and be present and keep doing a good job; don’t focus so hard on the money issues. I focus a lot on other things.” It was an emotional moment on the podium when event champion, Valenti, hugged Mexican competitor Leonhart. “I want every woman and man, every boy and girl in this country to be a witness to this and to be aware of it because it will initiate a change of thinking in their minds—an eyeopener to what is possible,” Leonhardt said. “It will encourage women to appreciate the value of their work, the value of their daily efforts and strengthen their self-esteem. It will open young girls’ minds to pursue their dreams, work hard, and invest in their future because they can believe that they will be rewarded according to achievements, not gender.”
C O M M U N I T Y
Hawaiian Scientist Cliff Kapono Shares His View on Mauna Kea TMT Photos Cliff Kapono
July 25, 2019 : Hawaiian surfer and scientist Cliff Kapono is on the scene at Mauna Kea, Hawai‘i’s highest peak, as peaceful protests continue: “I would like to express my humble perspective of why I am in opposition to the current construction of the TMT on Mauna Kea through a 13-minute audio clip published on the link in my bio. In short, I believe that both Hawaiian culture and science culture are being unfairly appropriated. I believe that the way this ‘scientific’ endeavor is being pursued is highly unethical. Additionally, the building site for the telescope is on a US national natural landmark. Using ‘science’ as a means of legitimizing the development of federally recognized pristine land is a dangerous game to play, especially when foreign interests are involved. Feel free to have a listen and let’s open up a dialogue.“ – @cliff_kapono
26
Waco Wavepool Review By Shannon Reporting
“I love that place because you get to learn how to do whatever kind of surfing you want, really quickly. It’s also fun that you can surf until you can’t move your body anymore... I love those days.” - Mason Ho Wave pools are all the rage these days: from the Olympic possibilities for countries without coastlines, to surf parks in midland malls; Kelly Slater’s Wave Co. to Occy’s Surf Lakes; the world is waking up to wave riding and all the fun to be had even when an ocean is nowhere in sight. Yet, it must feel different to surf a wave pool, right? Freesurfing versus scheduled and prepaid “wave time;” reef or sand ocean bottom versus man-made concrete floors; saltwater or chlorinated pool water... But hey! Who are we to damper the fun of someone in the heart of America, surfing smack-dab in the Wild West of Texas? Party on, partner. The progress of aerial surfing when given a ramp of consistent size and shape is bound to push the sport to new heights. Most importantly, it sounds like most of the lucky surfers to visit wave pools often have raving reviews. So, we reached out to some of the top Hawai‘i surfers upon their return from Waco’s BSR Surf Resort to hear their professional opinions. Here’s what they had to say:
Waco wave pool first-timer, Kaiser Auberlen (14) gives a detailed description of his time surfing in Texas: “It was my first time [surfing a wave pool]... Overall, I would consider myself a freesurfer who would rather travel in search of perfect waves than compete in contests. So, when I got the call up from the crew at Vans to see if I wanted to go to Texas, I knew exactly where we were going and I was super psyched. It would be my first time going to a wave pool! We arrived at the Dallas Airport and you could tell by the looks on
“The wave pool in Waco is insane. It feels so similar to the ocean and really helps your surfing. Being able to surf the same wave over and over really allows you to work on your timing and creativity. It’s probably one of my favorite waves to surf.” - Eli Hanneman
Nate Tyler photo: Tom Carey
“It’s the dream beach day, like a skatepark on water.” - Balaram Stack
Kaiser Auberlen photo: Jimmy Wilson
people’s faces that they were surprised to see surfers in Texas. After a two-hour drive to Waco, we arrived at BSR Surf Resort. We ran out to check the waves and saw the last 3ft peeling left-hander of the day: it was perfect, light offshore, green and grinding all the way down the line. It was amazing to see perfect waves in the middle of nowhere... in a pool no less.
which pops up really fast and takes a bit to get used to, as it’s very different than the ocean. The park also has what they say is “the world’s longest lazy river”, an hour long! It has some crazy, gnarly slides that look like Olympic ski jumping ramps and send you sky-high. The lazy river seems to attract a lot of large people that drink a lot of alcohol.
I was frothing to surf the next day. I woke up the next morning bright and early, ready to be the first one out at 7 am. The pool itself is not very big, maybe ¾ the size of a football field with a wall on one side and a man-made beach on the other. It’s pretty amazing how you can surf a right and then just go to the other end of the wall and surf a left. This can happen within a matter of minutes.
The first day at BSR was awesome! I surfed for countless hours and caught too many waves to count. I surfed all the different types of waves, but my favorites were the Wedge left and the Air Wave left. Remember to take off close to the wall and use the numbers as a reference. Don’t worry about missing waves, as you will get plenty. That’s the beauty of the wave pool: you can catch so many different types of waves in a single session! They can change the wave type during your session in a matter of seconds.
There are about ten different combinations of waves you can create at BSR. The four main waves are: Lowers, The Wedge, Double Barrel, and The Air Wave. “Lowers” is the main wave most people surf. It comes in sets of three and offers rippable sections for nice turns and some little barrels. “The Wedge” is a single wave set were you take off behind the peak and backdoor a sick wedging barrel. “Double Barrel”—also known as “The Indo Wave”—has a fast barrel on takeoff and then a deeper barrel in the second section. If you go for the barrel on the first section, it’s hard to make the second barrel. “The Air Wave” comes in two-wave sets. It has an easy approach into a hefty oncoming section
The second day was meant to be a down day, so I was given three options: check in every hour to try and get in on a public session; ride in the lazy river with all the big, drunk Texans; or launch off the slides like a human cannonball. I couldn’t believe it, but after checking in for five hours and not getting a session, I was fortunate to get a call from Eli Hanneman just as we were leaving. He had tweaked his knee and gave me his spot in the public session he had reserved. I was so stoked (thanks Eli, you are a legend)! After surfing, we topped off our
“It’s so fun! You get happy-surfed out in only three hours! It was a crazy different experience! Nothing will replace the ocean, but surfing in a pool is so fun, not to mention the opportunity it has created for surfers to progress aerial surfing!” - Bethany Hamilton
(Editor’s Note: Hamilton’s original message to Freesurf was followed by three exclamation points!) 28
W A C O
W A V E P O O L
R E V I E W
WE SHOULD HAVE BEEN BORN WITH FINS Dane Reynolds photo: Jimmy Wilson
day with some classic Texas barbecue at Rudy’s. The grindz were all so good but my favorite had to be the smoked turkey.
ARE THE NEXT BEST THING...
It was great to be there in Waco surfing with the Vans team, including: Joel and Tosh Tudor, Alex Knost, Harry Bryant, Tanner Gudauskas, Jett Schilling, Nathan Florence, and Nathan Fletcher. I got some good tips from Harry Bryant and Nathan Fletcher on how to approach The Air Wave: wait until you see the splash on the wall, draw out to the
“For the first time in surfing history, we can get the same exact wave over and over again, and try new tricks until we have them on lock. The place is insane, and I love the pool
Purchase at: www.sbrsportsinc.com or amazon.com USA Dist & Whlsle info: Andrew@sbrsportsinc.com www.sbrsportsinc.com
and the vibe! I really hope they make more like it [and] hopefully a bit bigger!”
- Matt Meola bottom, and send it towards the beach. We also got to surf a night session. I’ve never surfed at night before. It was so sick!
Y
A SPR
I was also lucky enough to be there for the Stab High event. It was by far the best contest I have ever seen. Watching everyone push the limits of aerial surfing was crazy! All the surfers were incredible, but the judo straight airs from Eithan Osborne, the corrupt flips from Kevin Schulz, and the board control of Chippa Wilson stood out above all. The guys were all really supportive of each other when they rode out of an air. It felt like there was no pressure and everyone was just having fun, as it should be. When the event was over, a massive Texas storm rolled in on Waco. Tents went flying into the pool and people were bailing out of the resort really quick! We decided to chill for a bit before adventuring out into the lightning and thunder of Texas. We drove through the rough rain storms and finally made it to our hotel. It was one of the most amazing—yet frightening—things I’ve ever seen. I’m super thankful to Vans for the invitation. It was one of the most fun surf trips I’ve ever had, and I was certainly surfed out afterwards! It’s amazing to be able to travel around the world for surfing and have the most surreal experiences, even in the middle of America!” - Kaiser Auberlen (14)
• An�-chafe, an�-fric�on for neck, inner thigh, underarms, seams, “nether region.” • Eases entries into wetsuits. • Prevents blistering. • Waterproof | sweat-proof; only removed with combo of soap & water. • Safe on all fabrics including Lycra and Neoprene. • Clean spray with silky feel. • Easy to use, safe to share. • Fragrance free. • TSA friendly. Available at Amazon.com | Wholesale info: www.sbrsportsinc.com
H A N A
Hawai‘i Lifeguards: Risking Theirs to Save Yours By Mara Pyzel
this February when, during a bout of extreme wind, heavy rain, and powerful ocean surge, lifeguards took to Instagram, Facebook, and local news sources cautioning the public to stay away from coastal areas. Hawai‘i’s 1,052 miles of pristine coastline attracts residents and visitors alike, soaking up the sun, sand, and turquoise waters. However, a day in paradise can become perilous in an instant. The watchful eyes of the City & County of Honolulu Ocean Safety allow us to revel in long days of worry-free surfing, sailing, and snorkeling. These highly capable watermen can save the day at a moment’s notice, and have committed countless hours of personal and professional time readying themselves for any challenge that may come their way. Encompassing both mental and physical preparedness, the time they invest in conditioning improves the steadfast alertness, seamless communication, and extensive knowledge of the ocean is the core of each successful rescue. The rescues we witness from the beach represent
just a fragment of the effort these dedicated individuals invest in keeping us safe... We dive in to this respectable career for our latest Pau Hana feature.
“The winds got too strong so we had to shut down some of the towers for a little while. Our own lifeguards’ safety is first and foremost, but we try to let the public know that that’s what’s happening,” stated Captain of Communications, Kurt Lager. With no major incidents occurring during this period of concern, the proactivity of Ocean Safety proved to be worthwhile.
The safety of beachgoers starts with awareness. From educational brochures in the airport, to a daily presence on social media, Ocean Safety is making a concerted effort to educate the public before we are even suited up. With an entire division dedicated to communications, these preventative measures range from common-sense reminders (such as jellyfish) to near-invisible dangers (like strong currents). Through a digital presence, the public can receive updates about everything from beach closures to shark attacks to missing vessels. This real-time social media blitz proved successful
Regardless of the positive outcome of these heavy conditions, the guards had nonetheless been ready for anything. With individual prep routines ranging from checking the surf report to a quick convo with coworkers the night before, a lifeguard’s work day extends far beyond the confines of their shift hours. Describing his continuously watchful eye, 32
jet ski operator Kirk Ziegler said, “I bring my job with me all the time. When I go to the beach on my days off, I'm still vigilant,” because, as he cautioned, “Life's good; the day is wonderful and then Boom! something happens.” It can turn 180 degrees instantaneously, an unfortunate daily reality for ocean safety officers. When anticipating a turbulent day, guards will go in early, allotting themselves time to strategize with each other and assess conditions firsthand. It is here at the beach where tower guards like Tau Hannemann serve as the next line of defense for public safety.
Tau Hannemann
City & County of Honolulu Ocean Safety Officer, East Side & North Shore Years on the job: 16 years Job description: Providing nonstop surveillance of their surroundings, tower guards are often the first to someone in distress. Monitoring the coast by land (ATV), sea (rescue board) and sight, tower guards also take preventative action by
Heff
P A U
P A U
posting warning signs about currents and other ocean hazards. They answer questions and offer advice about the day's conditions. They will approach beach-goers who look unsure about the conditions. Hannemann recalls a day when they made about thirteen water rescues, but estimates they prevented between 40-60 rescues by simply talking to people.
H A N A
/
H A W A I ‘ I
L I F E G U A R D S
the ocean’s activity prior to their shift, closely monitoring the tides, winds, and currents during the course of their workday. Ocean Advice: “80% of it is vigilance and 20% is going out there and performing a successful rescue. For the most
Kirk Ziegler
part, you want to stay constantly vigilant,” Hannemann shared, a lesson applicable to all oceangoers.
from a caller who may or may not know the ocean, so we're often going in blind,” explains Ziegler. “Yet, that's part of our training. Most of the time, though, ski operators work in pairs and will launch on heavy mornings to monitor the lineup; they offer assistance when necessary.” When in action, the team is able
Jet Ski Operator, North Shore Years on the job: 13 years Job description: Calls from the public can end up being anything from a floating coconut to a distressed kayaker. “We get very limited information coming
“We always try to accommodate them. They’ve come a long way and they want to get in the ocean,” Hanneman says of Oahu visitors. Workday Preparation: Before each work day Hannemann familiarizes himself with the conditions and currents of the day: “Even when there's no surfers out and it's stormy I’ll take the rescue board, my fins, and my rescue tube and try to punch through the surf just for training. Sometimes I'll end up dodging the board but I'll continue out swimming with the tube and just get a feel for what's out there. That gives me peace of mind so that when it does get smaller and there's people surfing, I have already gone out when it is really big so that [...] I am more comfortable making those rescues.” Even on his days off, he remains alert: “I always stay aware of big swells coming in […] On my days off, I’ll look at the surf during the previous day before I’m going to come back so I know what to expect. I look at all-around weather conditions; if it’s stormy and onshore, then often times the beaches will be less crowded. So if we have a lot of winds we know the beach activity is going to be small with less people coming to the beach.” While ocean safety officers have their own independent routines for updating themselves on daily conditions and mental preparation for each workday, they are constantly in touch with
When the conditions of a situation extend beyond the support of the tower, dispatch will launch their jet ski units. The ski is launched either in response
to a 911 call as additional tower support, or as a precautionary measure in more challenging conditions (think macking Pipe or epic Waimea). Kirk Ziegler is part of the jet ski unit that launches out of the North Shore.
to quickly reach a distressed person and load them onto the ski sled, removing them from harm’s way. Once accomplished, they swiftly get them to the safety of the beach. Workday Prep: “We discuss 34
with our partner what we need to do for the day; if it’s some maintenance work or some office work, or a workout or checking out the towers… Then we’ll discuss what we need to do first. During the winter when there’s huge surf and 15 foot Pipe and Waimea is breaking and everyone's out, I'll call my partner the night before and be like, ‘Hey, what do you think, man? How are we going to do this?’ We usually show up early on those days to prep the ski and everything else early. We'll launch around 8 or 8:30 and be in the water all day long.” Communication on these days is crucial: “You’re always just checking with your partner, checking with your lieutenant, and checking with the busy towers so that it's all cohesive.” Ocean Advice: Ziegler notes that social media and dangerous surf don’t mix. “It's all about the photo, which doesn't help us out. If you want to go and be a part of it, come to us. Come talk to us. We’ll give you a report and an update. Don't just walk out on the rocks at Sharks Cove to get a picture. Nobody wants to drag an unconscious person out of the water when you could just go up and talk to them.” Throughout the course of the day, both the tower and the ski maintain contact with dispatch where guys like Kurt Lager ensure the flow of communication is clear, concise, and as accurate as possible. This stream of communication is vital in order to help responders become acquainted with a situation as soon as possible, before even reaching the scene. External information is shared with a Public Information Officer who maintains communication with us, the curious public.
Kurt Lager
Captain of Communication Unit & Operations Support Years on the job: 14 years Job description: Based out of offices near Diamond Head, these folks clock tenhour shifts following daylight hours. Dispatch and Public Relations form the epicenter of communication between lifeguard personnel, emergency services, and the public. They maintain a strong social and news media presence. This includes press conferences like the one held in February in which Lager and Mayor Kirk Caldwell spoke with news outlets regarding safety concerns during the peak of the storm’s volatile seas and treacherous winds. They also collaborate as needed with Civil Defense, the Governor's office, and the National Weather Service ensuring a uniform understanding remains of the who, what, when, and where.
H A N A
/
H A W A I ‘ I
Workday prep: Lager is a proponent of a good night's sleep and problem solving ahead of time: “I like to tell our guys to plan out the day as if we know we’re going to be busy,” says Lager. “There's a lot of distractions with phones and places people need to go and things to do, so I tell them to take care of things ahead of time so that when they come in to work, it's just time for work.” Ocean Advice: Lager encourages beachgoers to download the HNL Info app to receive upto-date intel about conditions. “We want everyone to have fun and get out there and enjoy everything that the ocean and beaches have to offer, but we want everyone to be safe,” he stated, adding, “If you have any doubts, just talk to one of the lifeguards.” Sacrificing personal time and risking their own lives, the watermen and women who make
L I F E G U A R D S
In order to further support the lifeguard association 501(c)3 and affiliated programs like the Junior Lifeguard program, please log on to www.hawaiianlifeguardassociation.com
Keoki
P A U
Tau Hanemann
up the lifeguards of Hawai‘i have made the security of others their main priority. They keep an eye out for one another, too. “It’s a family; it's a brotherhood,” explains Ziegler. “When you are in stressful situations with people who have your back and are there for you and alongside you, you grow together more than you can imagine.” As each day without injury or fatality goes by, their hard work and extra hours can start to be taken for granted
by those of us benefiting from it. They are the unsung heroes, with jobs that become a lifestyle and encompasses so much more than many of us know. “We come from the same breed; we all love the ocean and enjoy everything the ocean has to offer from surfing to diving to paddling etc. So it makes it easy for us to get along as we all love our job. We want to help people, and thrive off of that energy,” said Lager. So, next time the ATV rides by you, flash a smile and throw a shaka—these guys deserve it.
Ukuleles 100% handmade in Haleiwa, Hawaii
Ukuleles by
Joe Green
Available at: Surf N Sea, Wy’s Gallery in Haleiwa and Ukulele Puapua in Waikiki
JoeGreenUkulele.com / 808.637.7873
n a c i x e M t s e B s ’ Ha waii
Restaurant & Margarita Bar
Congratulations Kirra Seale!
2019 Joel Tudor Duct Tape Invitational - 2nd Place
Photo: Max Beyer
Located in the North Shore Marketplace 66250 Kamehameha Highway Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712
808-637-3059 www.CHOLOS.mx
Authentic Mexican Favorites
Island Fresh Fish Tacos Refreshing Margaritas Open Everyday 9:30am-9:30pm Happy Hour: 4-6 pm M-F - Food & Drink Specials
Large Parties Welcome! Muchos Mahalos to all our loyal customers for your patronage!
T A L K
S T O R Y
Biggest Town Swell of the Summer By Guy Hagi Photos gOnzo
Guy Hagi
A solid south swell peaked July 14th firing up the Big Bowl of Ala Moana to cap off a great start to the summer season. Double overhead sets rolled in consistently with decent wind conditions—although, as is normally the case, the crowd was oftentimes thick and fierce.
My son and I were lucky enough to catch a small window with a light, generous crowd right around lunchtime. Mikey O’Shaughnessy was paddling in, and as we crossed paths, he told me that our timing was perfect with the crowd thinning out. He was right: the normally overbooked lineup was a bit sparse, an uncommon sight at the Big Bowl. I think most of the insatiable crew was waiting for the afternoon peak. In fact, a few sets late in the day closed out the Ala Wai channel prompting the National Weather Service to post a rare High Surf Warning.
This is my son Luke’s second summer of surfing Ala Moana, so the July swell was his first-ever session at legit Big Bowl. He was mentally ready to charge, but I have to admit: I was a bit anxious for him. The Sunday swell was a good introduction for Luke because as Big Bowl swells go, it wasn’t the most ferocious, but it still had plenty of size with enough heft to rough you up if you made a mistake. Kainoa Kanahele and his 14-year-old son, Kainoa Jr., were out as well, so Luke had a bit of company. Both Luke and Kainoa Jr. caught a few nuggets thanks to the generosity of uncles like Mike Akima, Ronnie Ongos, and Kekoa Cazimero. It was also good for the kids to witness
Mike Akima
Luke Hagi
38
Amplify Awesome The Eastbank featuring ChromaPopâ„¢ #ExperienceChromaPop
T A L K
Guy and Luke Hagi
S T O R Y
Kainoa Kanahele
the talent of the Pipe regulars that had become temporary “Townies.” You know the waves are good when former world champ Derek Ho, Mikey Bruneau, and Flynn Novak show up! Luke snagged a few waves, and got burned on a couple. He even got caught inside where some 8 footers unloaded on his head, but he survived. He also caught the wave of his life and couldn’t stop talking about it for days! As for the old weatherman, I got lucky and a handful of waves fell into my lap. Although, as a father, seeing Luke get the stoke that I know all too well was much more satisfying. Mikey Bruneau
Kekoa Cazimero
EVAN GEISELMAN - NORTH SHORE
BEACH FREELY
BEST OF SUMMER 2019
Kekoa Bacalso photo: Aaron Nakamura
No complaints here! This summer has been very active with surf almost every day, with a few stand-out bangers to make us very happy here in Hawai‘i. There have been approximately five major south swells with the biggest pulse being on Sunday, July 14th - and that's not even including all the tradewind swell that Sandy Beach regularly catches, keeping us grinning for days. Plus, while working on this issue, there are two hurricanes created more swell in addition to some south action mid-August, so all we can say is, “Thanks, Mother Nature!” Please take your time to appreciate our APERTURE photo gallery featuring top-shelf photographic work from some of the most dedicated lens-humans in the Islands, all captured during this wave-filled summer season. -gOnzo
Kelia Moniz photo: gOnzo
Jun Jo photo: Christa Funk
Anthony O'Brien photo: gOnzo
Shayden Pacarro photo: gOnzo
Ian Ronsson photo: gOnzo
Ala Moana Beach Park photo: Heald
photo Doug Fernandez @nalu528
John Van Hohenstein @johnny_the_ripper 2018 & 2019 USA Longboard Champion Congratulations John! Thank you for representing RJ Surfboards
photo Will Walling
C US T O M S URFBO ARDS
(808)738-7873
+ SHORTBOARDS $450
+ SUP
+ LONGBOARDS $690
+ ECO BOARDS
+ GUNS
+ BIG GUY BOARDS
+ FISHES
+ FOIL BOARDS $750
www.rjsurf.com
SHORE BREAK MADNESS By gOnzo
Documenting heavy Hawaiian shorebreaks from the water is definitely not for everyone. Sure, one might swim out to enjoy the energy with a GoPro or camera setup, but doing it when the ocean is out of control, flushing out to sea with the craziest of riptides, and heaping solid swell energy with everything detonating in only inches of sand… Now we’re talking next level! In this issue, we introduce you to some of the craziest and most creative humans out there who dedicate their lives to this unique water photography. This select group of individuals is always on the lookout for small windows with the right conditions, constantly analyzing wave forecasts, and committed to endless spot checks. The thing about Hawaiian shorebreak is that every day—truly every minute—conditions change dramatically. The shorebreak is a dynamic zone: very dangerous, violent, and crazy shallow.
Timing is everything when shooting mutant slabby shorebreaks. Reacting quickly and making the right decisions in split seconds is vital; if not on your A-game, then accidents, chaos, and carnage can occur in the blink of an eye. That's the precise moment when experience and expertise kicks in; knowing the rhythm of the ocean, understanding its energy pockets and how everything works sets the veterans apart from amateur shooters. There are varied strategies to approaching shorebreak madness, and these madmen have figured it out after years of sacrificing their blood, sweat, and tears—in addition to their fair share of shorebreak poundings which comes with the territory. While this is a short list of the many respected shorebreak shooters, we know you'll enjoy the galleries and stories from some of the most impressive water-warriors out there. These guys have dedicated their free time (and often their entire career) to waiting for the heaviest of days to swim out with their cameras, documenting huge water caves in gnarly shorebreak. You will not be disappointed. Aloha. 54
TAI VANDYKE Years shooting shorebreak: 5 Favorite spots to shoot: I don't like to mention names or locations of spots out of respect for the locals‌ but, obviously, anywhere in Hawai‘i that I have time to jump in and play. Equipment and technique: Canon 1DX, 5DS, and CMT water housings. I don't really have a technique; I just like to spend time in the waves rolling around, getting pounded, and enjoying the power of the ocean. Craziest incident while shooting shorebreak: While shooting long lens on a bigger day, I got crushed by the lip not realizing I needed to keep one eye on the waves at all times. Sometimes it's so beautiful that you don't realize how dangerous it can be. I have seen many inexperienced tourists get pulled out of the water by lifeguards, but luckily nothing super serious. Advice for aspiring photogs: Always have respect and be aware of your surroundings. And don't expose secret zones. Aloha!
Steve Roberson
DANNY SEPKOWSKI Years shooting shorebreak: 6 Favorite spots to shoot: Ke`iki and Sandy’s. Pipeline when it's epic! Equipment and technique: Canon 1DX with a 100mm lens. I am all about obtaining a different perspective so the 100mm lens allows me to get angles from almost anywhere. If you ever see me in the water, I am usually set up at a zone with no one around. Craziest incident while shooting shorebreak: I have suffered numerous injuries during my career. I have torn my MCL, ruptured my eardrum, and have had a few concussions here and there. A scary moment that I went through was actually when my friend, Jacob Vandervelde, dislocated his hip at Keʻiki. To get a rider to safety in gnarly conditions is a humbling experience. My hat goes off to all of the water safety workers out there. The ocean is no joke! Advice for aspiring photogs: My advice to the younger generation is to have fun and shoot as much as you can! If you want to get into big shorebreak and surf photography, I suggest you ride waves on a regular basis! This allows you to feel the power and learn the currents and hazards of each spot. Over time, you will develop your own style. Don’t be afraid to be different!
Iain Campbell
TEDFORD MAHIKO Years shooting shorebreak: I have been in the shorebreak my entire life (49 years) growing up on a boogie board back in the 80s. As life went on, I ended up riding all sorts of boards, from longboards to SUPs and even shortboards. Then when the GoPro came out, I grabbed one just to mess around with at Keʻiki’s with Clark Little and some of my madmen friends. That ended up being one of my favorite things to do: shooting big, empty shorebreak or shooting my friends charging massive slabs. Advice for aspiring photogs: My tip is to know your limits! Never go out if you have doubts, also never paddle out to heavy shorebreak alone. Aloha from the North Shore of O‘ahu.
GREGG DANIELS Years shooting shorebreak: 10 Favorite spots to shoot: Westside O`ahu Equipment and technique: Canon 7D MKII w/ Canon 8-15mm Fisheye in SPL A-Series water housing Craziest incident while shooting shorebreak: One afternoon a few years back, I was in some fun shorebreak on the Westside. I was ready to come in when a medium-sized wave broke in front of me near the shoreline. Normally I would swim forward and go under the wave, but since I was going in, I thought I could use its energy to help take me to shore. As the wave broke, I turned to the beach and let most of the energy pass over me. I gave one kick to ride the remaining energy behind the wave to shore, but underestimated its power; instead of being gently pushed to shore, the wave slammed me full-throttle, headfirst into the shallow sand bottom. I instantly felt my face smash into the sand and heard the loudest chiropractor crack ever. While underwater, I immediately went through the checklist to feel if I could still move my fingers and toes. Luckily, I wasn’t paralyzed and only had a strained neck for a few days. That day, I learned a big lesson about slowing down and respecting the power of the ocean.
Advice for aspiring photographers: Put in your time, be respectful, and get to know the locals. Learn as much as you can about the interaction of swells, wind, and weather so you increase your chances of scoring epic waves. Most importantly, have fun in the water and enjoy the ride. E mahalo kākou I ka mea loaʻa. Let us be thankful for what we have.
ALIKA K LOPES Years shooting shorebreak: 6 Favorite spots to shoot: Sandy Beach Equipment and technique: I started off shooting with the GoPro and advanced to getting a DSLR; I chose the Sony Alpha a6000. Today I also work with a Sony A9 with CMT housing, mostly shooting 50mm. Craziest incident while shooting shorebreak: [Laughs] There are too many to mention‌ I remember being out in the water the day before the 2016 Eddie Aikau at one of my favorite winter breaks on the Westside, and man, was it huge - so huge it touches your soul! I will never forget that day. Advice for aspiring photogs: Love it, embrace it, be respectful to it, and the rest is simple: just enjoy.
JONAH MORGAN Years shooting shorebreak: 9 Favorite spots to shoot: Ke‘iki Beach Equipment:GoPro 4 Silver Craziest incident while shooting shorebreak: Luckily, I have never been injured too badly while shooting photos, but there was this one time when I had a close call that landed me in Kahuku Hospital. While shooting, my GoPro trigger handle jerked back into my face and cut me open just above the lip; six stitches were needed, but it could have been worse. Advice to aspiring photogs: First thing, always make sure you have fun, but most importantly, be safe. Be aware of others around you, and make sure that when someone else is in the water nearby that you give them enough space and show some aloha.
W A H I N E
Rumor Star By Shawn Pila
Women’s, and competed again in this year’s NSSA Nationals in Huntington Beach.
It’s easy to say that girls from the Big Island are built a little tougher than most: lava-filled volcanic mountains, rocky terrain, and undeveloped surf breaks that sometimes turn a simple little surf session into a full-blown mission, making for a stronger surfer. No matter what the circumstances may be, 16-yearold Rumor Star will do whatever it takes to up her surfing to the next level.
These travels are a major accomplishment coming from Hawai`i Island, a place with little-to-no professional surf exposure. However, with a solid foundation and determination, these Big Island kids will continue to shine in the competitive surfing world. Rumor Star continues to dominate the Big Island surf scene and plans to travel more often to compete in the upcoming WSL Junior Pro. She and her brother, Diesel Storm, aim to pave the way for young surfers from Hilo and want to remind them that with hard work and dedication, absolutely anything is possible.
Rumor was raised in a small town just north of Hilo on the East Side of Hawai‘i Island. Growing up, she helped her family with produce from the farm and prepare fresh fish caught by her father. Sustainable living was the norm. A tight-knit family and a community that worked together has shaped this young woman into the humble athlete she is today, and although quiet and soft-spoken, her actions speak louder than her words.
Full name:Rumor Star Auli`i Miyoko Butts DOB:March 1, 2003 Hometown:Pepe`ekeo, HI Homebreak: Honoli`i Stance:Goofy Go-fo board:5’7” Tokoro Round Tail Sponsors:Basic Image, Body Glove, Tokoro, Pikai Swimwear, Matunas Wax, Little Hands Hawaii Sunscreen, North Shore Surf Shop, Alex & Duke De Rego Foundation, Orchidland Surf Shop Instagram:@rumorstar Nicknames: M y family calls me “Tweety” and my friends at school call me “Moana,” “Mermaid,” and “Rumor Starbucks.”
Rumor started surfing when she was 10, only slightly later than the modern-day Hawai‘i keiki. Filled with sheer tenacity and passion to succeed, Rumor is expected to be unstoppable in her competitive pursuits. The goofy-footed power surfer placed 4th overall at the 2018 HSA State Championships at Ala Moana Bowls, and for the last three years ranked #1 in the HSA Big Island Girls 18 & Under Shortboard Division. She recently took second place at the 35th Annual Quiksilver/Maui Jim Big Island Pro-Am Surfing Trials, placed 5th in the NSSA Regionals at Kewalos in Explorer
Photos Shawn Pila 68
Shawn Pila
What was it like growing up on the Big Island? Calm, laid back, everyone knows one another... There’s a lot of aloha—genuine aloha!
Favorite subject in school: P .E. [Physical Education] because I like to challenge the boys and beat them.
When did you start surfing?I first started surfing when I was 10 years old at Hakalau Mill. I practiced a couple of days before a surf contest and both my brother and I ended up winning the contest! After that, we felt unstoppable. I feel blessed to be a native Hawaiian surfer, since our Hawaiian ancestors invented the sport.
Favorite music: All kines!
What do you like most about surfing? Just being in the ocean and doing what I love. Surfing is peaceful, calming, plus I’m able to work out and have fun at the same time.
Favorite post-surf grindz: Poke bowls, açai bowls, and taro boba tea.
Backstreet Boys or N*SYNC? W hat is that? [laughs] Cardi B. or Nicki Minaj? C ardi B.!
Favorite animal: M y pet mongoose, Tiki! He's a Hawaiian ferret who loves eating da local kine Hawaiian sweetbread!
Favorite surfers: Carissa Moore, Alessa Quizon, Coco Ho, and Tatiana Weston-Webb.
Favorite sea creature: Dolphins.
Inspiration: Watching pro surfers’ videos on YouTube, getting motivated, and doing better!
Dream travel destination:Tahiti and Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch!
What are some of the challenges you face being a female surfer from the Big Island? N ot getting recognized as much as we should.
Goals for the next few years: Doing the WSL Junior Pro, entering more contests, and traveling more!
Goals to achieve before high school graduation: This year, my goal is to get a big surf brand sponsor like my brother, Diesel Storm. It's so hard to get sponsored when you're coming from the Big Island, especially from the Hilo side, and even more challenging as a girl. I don't know any wahine from Hilo who has a major sponsor, and I would like to change that by being the first. Hobbies and interests outside of surfing: Taekwondo, Junior Lifeguards, doing beach cleanups (mālama da `āina) with Uncle Skibs and our Basic Image Crew, and educating kids about water safety and ocean awareness with the Alex & Duke DeRego Foundation.
Where do you see yourself in the next five years?Hopefully on the pro Tour! Backup career if you weren’t a pro surfer: A North Shore Lifeguard, because I like to help people and I could educate them about the ocean. I would always be around the water, plus I would still get to surf. Any advice you’d like to give our readers? D ream big, believe in yourself, work hard, show aloha, and never give up! MAHALO NUI to all my sponsors.
70
R E P O R T
Dooma Photos
G R O M
Nora Liotta By Shannon Reporting
At the young age of 14, Maui girl Nora Liotta can already call herself an entrepreneur. Alongside her sister, Anja, the two surfer girls started selling their handmade Surf Rings and, in effect, opened a business to support their dreams of being professional surfers. You’ve probably seen these rings around: that beautiful wave logo bent into the simple and chic metal ring? That’s their signature style. Based out of Haiku, the small business helps the girls pay for surf contests and trips, which is pretty cool to see. Girls these days can truly do it all! We caught up with the younger sister of the duo, Nora, in between sessions at Ho`okipa to get the full scoop - and get a grom’s forecast for what the future holds for female surfing.
Sponsors: Dakine, Glenn Minami Surfboards, Maui Raw, Solkine Maui, Surf Rings
Freesurfing or competing? I love both but have to say I do love competing. I love the rush it gives me, and that combination of adrenaline and excitement is awesome. I also love freesurfing with my friends, cheering them on and having fun, but competing is a feeling like no other.
Favorite part about surfing: When I set foot in the water, I feel freedom. The sea is everchanging and I find myself constantly humbled by the sport. I love feeling the wind, the currents, and the power of a wave while carving my line and just being one with nature.
Starting a business with your sister: My older sister’s name is Anja. From a young age, we have always been extremely invested in crafting and entrepreneurship. About two years ago we took a silversmithing class at the Hui No`eau Art Center and were both instantly hooked! When the course finished, our mom helped us buy all that we needed to have a silversmithing workshop on our lanai in Haiku. The first thing that we made when all of our supplies came in was wave rings! Since then, it has been our favorite project to perfect and work on,
Maui pride: Living on the North Shore is awesome. What’s great about Maui is that there are so many different kinds of waves, even just in our own backyard. The weather is always changing; windy, gnarly conditions give us the best training grounds, and when we have perfect conditions it’s such a gift because we know it’s not like that everyday, so it hones our surfing skills.
72
and over time we came to see that we were not the only ones who loved them! After being asked by many people if we sold our jewelry, we decided to start selling our wave rings to raise money for our trip to California to compete in Surfing America at Trestles. Without our company Surf Rings, we would have never been able to travel to Nationals or, more recently, Tahiti for the Papara Junior Pro and QS event. Almost anyone can make a wave ring, but what makes our Surf Rings different is the story behind it and what your purchase supports. We are always on the lookout for more wholesale accounts or stores who are looking to support young entrepreneurs as well as helping us fund our competitive surfing. Mentors and idols: My mom and dad are definitely my mentors. They are both surfers and are always the first people to get us in the car to go find waves. Before moving us to Hawai`i almost 5 years ago, we lived in the mountains of Colorado. My parents gave us a taste for surf while exploring California where they pushed us into our first waves and got us stoked on the sport. I am super thankful for my dad who has been the biggest support of all, coaching me from day one. I am also grateful for the Ho`okipa uncles and other parents who encourage me along the way. Favorite surfer on the World Tour: I love watching Stephanie Gilmore. Her style is so classic and unique. She is super consistent and represents what I strive [to achieve] with my surfing. I also look up to Ian Walsh and Carissa Moore. I enjoy watching all the WSL events, especially the women’s pro events and following the Tour. My family and I don’t miss a single event. It’s like Super Bowl Sunday at
15 years of Refined Designs
The Original ~The Best!
KE NUI KITCHEN
Voted Best Breakfast in San Clemente!
EVENT CATERING • NORTH SHORE, OAHU
Based out of Waimea Valley, our exceptional cuisine is a must for weddings, corporate events, private dinners, and more!
Less than 1 mile from the top of Trestles Trail on Avenida Del Presidente Sarah Jual
KENUIKITCHEN.COM • (808) 638-5000 @KENUIKITCHEN
Mondays and Tuesdays buy one Burger get the second one free ( dine-in only) $4 mimosas and $4 Karl Strauss drafts M-F 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily Adeles.biz 2600 Ave. Del Presidente San Clemente, California
(949) 481-1222
our house when a surf contest is being aired. We love cheering on the underdogs as well as our hometown Maui surfers. Would you ever dream of surfing Pe`ahi? [laughs] Not necessarily. I love surfing waves big enough to do powerful maneuvers, but I’m definitely not at the point that I’m ready to take a Jaws-size hold down. We’ll see what the future holds... I’m super inspired by Paige Alms and love watching the women charge at the WSL Big Wave Tour events.
40YEARS creating masterpieces
Iron Cross Surf Shop located in Cardiff By The Sea, California. Specializing in custom surfboards, rentals, & repairs. 2107 San Elijo Ave, Cardiff, CA 92007 760 436-1900 www.ironcrosssurfboards.com
Post-surf grindz: My mom’s cooking is the best! She grew up in a restaurant and is a professional chef on Maui so she knows how to make super tasty and healthy food. I also love açai bowls. My sister works at a local shop called Paia Bowls [owned by the Walsh brother] so we eat there a lot! I also love to bake and experiment with healthy ingredients. There is always a lot going on in our kitchen! Predictions for the future of women’s surfing: I am so excited about the future of
female surfing; it’s growing so fast and motivates me to stick with it and see what my own future holds. I am so grateful to have come into surfing at this time since it’s only going to get better. What does female empowerment mean to you? Women’s surfing has grown so much and continues to do so. When I first started competing, there were barely enough girls to form a finals heat. Now, we have at least two rounds to get to the podium. It’s crazy how many new girl surfers are in the water these days. I am so inspired by all the girls around me and want to keep pushing my limits and growing as an athlete. When the WSL announced equal pay for women, it was really motivating.
RENTALS LESSONS SALES
Meeting All Your Surfing Needs With Aloha! Now four convenient locations... Waikiki, Hale’iwa, Long Beach NY and our newest location, Playa Jobos, Isabela, PR
MOKU rider Larry Rios at Bowls photo cbobphotos
www.moku-hi.com
Stuff We Like
Ecovessel Ecovessel started with a simple goal: to replace wasteful single use plastics. Over the past several years they have evolved into so much more. Their summer catalog displays an impressive lineup of bottles, tumblers, and mugs for the entire family. Ecovessel has value-added features built into their products including: soft landing silicon bases, strainers for tea, fruit, and ice, as well as a variety of interchangeable leak proof lids. Their signature TriMax Triple insulation has been tested to keep drinks cold for 36 hours and hot for up to 8 hrs. Ecovessel’s products also come with an incredible 100-year warranty, which is a real testament to the quality of their lineup. With sustainability as their mission, Ecovessel has partnered with EKLAY to create a social enterprise program that actively strives to reduce single-use plastic water bottles in schools. They have also partnered with Water For People, a long established non-profit, to provide permanent solutions to water, sanitation, and hygiene problems in developing countries. For a look at Ecovessel’s full line, visit: www.ecovessel.com
Vans / T&C Colab This summer, Vans is honored to partner with respected Hawai‘i surf and skate brand T&C Surf, on a new limited release collaboration featuring Vans footwear and apparel. Stamped by its iconic yin and yang logo, T&C Surf celebrates a longstanding history in manufacturing premium surfboard designs since 1971, utilizing superior materials and advanced design concepts made by the best craftsmen worldwide. Vans and T&C Surf share a unified mission in support of historic surfing heritage, upholding the essence of Hawaiian surfing to the highest respect.
Haleiwa Ukulele “Music makes the world go ‘round.” What’s NOT to like about the beautiful sounds of Hawai‘i’s beloved Ukulele, especially if it’s a Haleiwa Ukulele?! Each handmade piece is made from 100% recycled wood, including: Mango, Koa, Opuma from the floorboards at Surf N Sea shop in Haleiwa! The wood was salvaged and reshaped, made into the fret boards bridges of each of the Haleiwa Ukulele. This means that when you play or purchase a Haleiwa Ukulele, you are literally doing so with an authentic historical piece of Haleiwa!
The exclusive Vans x T&C Surf capsule, available at select retailers, highlights three pairs of Vans Surf footwear and three pieces of Vans apparel. Fusing the two brand’s vivid graphics-heavy aesthetic, Vans transforms the Sk8-Hi 138 Decon SF, Authentic SF and the Slide-On with distressed checker all-over patterns, anchored by the T&C Surf yin and yang logo. The apparel follows suit, offering a bright yellow long sleeve with matching checkered accents, a color blocked drawstring boardshort, a classic black short-sleeve t-shirt and a hat. The full assortment is presented in an eye-catching yellow, blue and checker color scheme, unifying the footwear and apparel together for a unique summer look.
66-160 Kam. Hwy. Haleiwa HI, 96712 | (808)-230-9851 | @FREEDOMLASER PHOTOGRAPHY - @hi.devan | MODEL - Mischa Joy Rose
Oceans Brew
SUIT UP. STAY OUT.
Organic Coffee North Shore
CHE ST & RIB G UARD
@ Kahuku Sugar Mill Kelly Art & Gifts • Espresso Drip • Cold Brew • Bullets • Tea Always plastic free @oceansbrew
U V PROTE CTION
S U R F R IB BY. CO M
Volcom Is “Water Aware”
Stuff We Like
Volcom recently announced the worldwide launch of “Water Aware,” a denim collection for men, women, and kids. A significant milestone in Volcom's journey towards sustainability, Water Aware features a reformulated, water-saving wash and finishing process in the line’s denim production, resulting in an average savings of 13 liters of water per jean! In fact, they have saved 3.8 million liters of water thus far and the brand is on track to reduce its water consumption by 40% by the year’s end!
RedBull Organics/ RedBull Editions ORGANICS by Red Bull are made with ingredients from natural sources and are certified organic in accordance with the USDA National Organic Program. The Organic Sodas, Not Energy Drinks come in four distinctive varieties: Simply Cola, Bitter Lemon, Ginger Ale, and Tonic Water. ORGANICS by Red Bull do not contain artificial flavors, colors, preservatives, GMOs, or other artificial ingredients. The end result is four distinct, great tasting and refreshing organic sodas made for your enjoyment.
Committed to addressing the harsh environmental impacts associated with clothing production, Volcom has been seeking solutions for responsible manufacturing practices over the last 12 years as part of its Eco-True initiatives. Denim is one of the brand’s largest categories, and therefore a natural area to focus on while implementing more sustainable materials and processes. After evaluating all the stages required to produce a pair of denim jeans, the Volcom team identified the amount of water used throughout the washing and finishing processes as an opportunity to create water use efficiencies. Head to www.volcom.com to support the cause and learn more!
Want wiiings without the sugar? Try the Red Bull Editions Sugarfree with the tastes of Crisp Pear, Açaí Berry, and Limeade.
Mokulele Airlines: Pets Fry Free! Every dog has their day! Pets fly for free on Mokulele! As a family airline, Mokulele believes in extending aloha to every member of your ohana, including your pets. #petsonplanes are welcome with advanced reservation. They limit the number of animals on each flight, so next time you want to island hop with your best friends, be sure to give Mokulele Airlines a call ahead. Pets must be well-behaved, harnessed with a leash and/or in a soft kennel, and remain with and under the control of the traveler at all times. There are, of course, more detailed size and behavioral parameters, so find out more about taking your surf dog or cat with you at: www.mokuleleairlines.com
More and Moore Aloha! In our modern world, one can just not get enough aloha! Two of our cool clients are promoting this friendly vibe: Check out the new tee designs of Cholo’s Homestyle Mexican Restaurant, located in the heart of Haleiwa Town. They have a rocking new t-shirt design that says it all! Visit: www.cholos.mx/shop Likewise, our friends at Sun Bum are sharing aloha by reflecting the good works of one of their key ambassadors—Carissa Moore! “The mission is to empower young females through the sport of surfing to be strong, confident, and compassionate individuals. The goal is simple, "Moore Love.’” This is indeed clever marketing, with lots of love! To support the cause, visit: www.moorealoha.com
Phone
637-0104
66-200 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa, HI 96712 Hours: 11:00 am to 8:00 pm
www.spaghettinihawaii.com
Like Us On
gOnzo
I N DUSTRY NOTE S Hawaiian star Kai Lenny received another accolade in his glittering career when he became the youngest person ever to enter the Surfers' Hall of Fame, aged just 26.
Mark Healey
Ocean conservation advocates and athletes Kimi Werner and Mark Healey are now a part of the Costa Sunglasses family! Caity Simmers
“We are so excited about the addition of Kimi and Mark to the Costa team, further reinforcing the company’s commitment to providing the highest quality sunglasses for anyone who defines their lives around the water, while also raising awareness around some of today’s most pressing issues concerning our oceans and waterways.”
O’Neill Congratulations Caity Simmers Vans US Open Women’s Pro Junior Champion -This past Saturday, Team O'Neill Rider Caity Simmer won the #VansUSOpen Women's Pro Junior. At just 13 years old, Caity took down an elite field of the best Under 18 women competitors. Caity nailed the maneuver of the event with a massive backhand tail blow earning an 8.70 for a single maneuver. With just 20 seconds remaining, Caity grabbed her last wave and unleashed a series of backhand turns earning her an 8.53, needing a 7.11, to overtake the lead. This marks Caity's second Pro Junior victory of 2019, making her the current North America Women's Pro Junior Tour ratings leader.
2019 marks Mokulele Airlines’ 25th anniversary. Mokulele is very proud to have been bringing quality air travel to the island communities throughout the chain for a quarter century and look forward to providing Hawaii with the same great service for years to come! Mokulele is also excited to announce that as of July 17th of this year they have added 2 daily round trips between Kahului, Maui and Lanai City. Not only is Mokulele Hawaii’s most on time provider, they are the #1 On-Time airline in the entire industry!
Luke Tema
Mokulele offers a variety of great employment opportunities here in the islands with competitive pay and great benefits. For information on careers or to book an inter-island trip with an incredible view check out their website at www.mokuleleairlines.com. Ocean’s Brew Congrats to Oceans Brew Organic new to the Kahuku Sugar mill! Organic coffee, grinds, drip, and cold brew.. espresso bullet coffees with all the fixings. Always Plastic Free!
Luke Tema, rising star, is the newest member of the Hawaiian Island Creations surf team. 80
He was inducted with Sam Hawk and Janice Aragon, their hand and footprints immortalized in cement out the front of Huntington Surf & Sport, as the ceremony paid tribute to the stars who have made an indelible mark on the sport, industry, and culture of surfing.
Kai Lenny
"Today I was inducted into the Surfers Hall of Fame. Never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined receiving this honor," Lenny said. Along with his surfing honors, Lenny has won the SUP world title several times and was runner-up at the Kite Surf Pro World Championships while he has become a leading global campaigner in fighting ocean pollution.
Brazilian Samba French Cabaret Latin African Pole Dancing Dance Fitness
Dance Lessons Available natalinamonteiro.com (808) 670-7337
Give me the opportunity to serve you to a new Honda or a quality pre-owned vehicle! Call today
Luiz Jardini (808)330-7229 for an appointment!
Call for free consultation
Exceptional people, extraordinary service
808.792.8333
office
808-792-8333 mobile
808-258-4985
HIautoAccident.com
SEAN YANO RA
808-386-4487 Top 1% of Realtors | Client Service Award sean@yanogroup.com | www.yanogroup.com License #: RS-61434
People’s Choice Law FirmŽ
RB-17095
#C-32543
94-344 Ukee St #2 Waipahu, HI 96797 Office: (808) 554-2572 Cell: (808) 321-9629 info@directelectrichawaii.com www.directelectrichawaii.com
Surf with a smile
Dr. John
Jones Dentistry
808 955 0058 1441 Kapiolani boulevard suite 907, honolulu, hawaii 96814
John Choi, Esq.
L A S T
L O O K
Photo by gOnzo Sunday evening, July 14th, 2019 during the biggest swell of the summer. When epic summer south swell events happen to occur over the weekend, Ala Moana Bowls becomes a big spectacle for everyone in the channel and around the beach park. It’s a great show, and we love being a part of it! Pictured here, Hawaiian Kekoa Cazimero (the prince of Bowls) enjoys one more barrel around 5:30pm‌ Just another typical south swell day at the park!