KCG June 2020

The Kansas City

GARDENER A Monthly Guide to Successful Gardening

June 2020

Outstanding Annuals showy plants, proven winners

The Rebels: Flower Moths Fruit Tree Fungal Diseases Gardens with Environmental Benefits 2020 Perennial Plant of the Year Aralia Cordata ‘Sun King’

editor’s notes

The Kansas City

GARDENER A Monthly Guide to Successful Gardening

Garden surprise

Independently owned and operated since 1996 Publisher Michael Cavanaugh Editor Elizabeth Cavanaugh Contributors Theresa and Nik Hiremath Lenora Larson Dennis Patton Ken O’Dell Tamra Reall Chelsea Didde Rice Denise Sullivan Loran Wiley Scott Woodbury Distribution Publishers Delivery Solutions, Inc.

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June 2020 | kcgmag.com

T

here is a stand of mature Douglas fir trees in the backyard northwest corner. More than 15 years ago, a screen was needed to hide our view of the neighbor’s rusting metal shed and chain link fence. When first planted each in the group measured six feet high. With the three spaced far enough apart allowing room to grow, the natural buffer has worked like a charm.

To date these trees are well over 40 feet tall and have grown together nicely. They are shelter for innumerable wildlife, and are generous benefactors of annual winter décor. And when the snow falls, the foliage is the quintessential backdrop. Needless to say, we have been rewarded handsomely on our investment.

Drought in previous years caused needle drop from the lower branches, so we pruned those sparse limbs away. This presented a new planting opportunity, a woodland garden of sorts. There is plenty of shade most of the day, with some filtered sunlight in the late afternoon.

Through his learned experiences in landscaping, Mr. Gardener

has a growing list of favorites.

Topping that list are hostas and ferns, ideal candidates for this newfound setting.

For years, this has been the location where leaves were dropped.

Instead of bagging leaves for the recycle crew to collect, we opted to recycle them back into the garden. Again we have been rewarded. While the leaves decompose, they act as natural mulch for these evergreens and other plants included in our woodland garden.

We tried planting a few hydrangea in this site, along the wooden fence where they would be exposed to more sunlight. Fail! It wasn’t terrible, they simply didn’t perform as expected.

Right away, Mr. Gardener wants to pull them up and send to the trash heap. Wait .... why not let them be for awhile. Nothing is perfect in a woodland garden.

Many plants learn to adapt over

time. Why not wait and watch.

I was reminded of good advice from my friend Lenora Larson.

As I stood in awe of her garden, admiring the multitude of plant varieties and their locations, she offered this nugget, “Plants just want to live.” It is as simple and uncomplicated as that.

In contrast I’ve been known to love plants to death, killed by too much attention. So I always keep this sage advice top of mind.

Which brings me to my garden surprise. During a recent walk underneath the fir trees, white pompom blooms caught my eye. There it was, hydrangea in full bloom.

The tall shrub had grown out and over the wooden split rail fence, and celebrated with loads of mophead-style blooms. I love that! My curiosity and amazement of the garden continues.

I’ll see you in the garden!

In this issue June 2020 • Vol. 24 No. 6 Kids Ask Dr. Bug ...................... 4 Ask the Experts ........................ 6 Fruit Tree Fungal Diseases ......... 8 Gardens with Environmental Benefits ............. 10 Hosta of the Year 2020 ........... 11 Outstanding Annuals ............... 12 June is Family Time .................. 14

about the cover ...

The Rebels: Flower Moths ......... 16 Zucchinis ................................ 17 Perennial Plant of Year 2020 .... 18 Powell Gardens Events ............. 19 Plants on Your Plate–Berries ...... 20 Garden Calendar .................... 22 Hotlines .................................. 23 Subscribe ................................ 23

Coleus ‘Dipt in Wine’ is a real attention grabber in the garden. Learn about more show-stopping annuals beginning on page 12. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners.

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Kids Ask Dr. Bug Home to more than plants, kids ask DR. TAMRA REALL about the curious things found in the garden.

What is this? (see picture) Jared, 9 This many-legged creature is a house centipede. Like other centipedes, this arthropod has one leg per body segment and has a voracious appetite for insects in and around your house. Its legs are longer than many other centipedes so it looks a little more intimidating. However, it is a critter you want to have around, so let it do its job. If you get a chance to look at it up close, note the bright colors on its back.

tively to gather food and to find places to build their nest or resting spot. Those who live in colonies, such as ants and honey bees, have developed ways to keep out those who do not belong there. They recognize their nestmates by smell and feel, and will attack anyone else who tries to enter. Insects do not understand your intentions – that you are just curious and want to see what they are doing. If you are careful, you can observe insects without them noticing. However, even if you unintentionally disturb an insect and they feel threatened, you might receive a warning bite or sting.

How do insects know who is nice?

Madison, 9 Insects spend their lives trying to survive. Like us, they want food, shelter and safety. They do this very differently than you and I, however. Instead of figuring out who they can trust, they act instinc-

Why do bees sting and how do they do it? Jaedon, 10 If a bee feels threatened, or that its colony is threatened, it

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venom that gets released. If you get stung, watch for signs of an allergic reaction. You may need to take an antihistamine. Some people are severely allergic to bee stings and may need to go to the hospital.

House centipede may attack. Female bees have a couple of ways to defend themselves – biting and stinging. Male bees can only bite. This is because the stinger is a modified ovipositor, the body part that lays eggs for many insects. Most bees have a smooth stinger that allows them to sting more than once, if needed.

Honey bees have a barbed stinger that gets stuck in our skin and stays attached, along with the venom sac, as the bee flies away. This is why it is important to gently flick the stinger off of you if you get stung, with your fingernail or a card, to reduce the amount of

Why does a bee die after it stings?

Valerie, 10 As mentioned in the last answer, after a honey bee stings, it loses its stinger and venom sac.

While the bee can fly away initially, the loss of the body part causes the bee to die. Remember that bees don’t sting to be mean. They sting because they feel threatened.

They lose their life when they are defending their colony so they are not looking for an opportunity to sting anyone. I love watching bees work as they gather pollen from flowers. I find that if I carefully walk in areas with bees, they just fly around me if I’m in the way.

Dr. Tamra Reall (@MUExtBugN Garden) is the new horticulture specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For free, research-based gardening tips, call 816-833-TREE (8733), email mggkc.hotline@gmail.com, or visit www.extension2.missouri.edu.

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Ask the Experts SQUIRRELS VS TOMATOES Question: Last year, the darn squirrels got too many of my tomatoes before I had a chance to pick them. Do you have any tips for outwitting them?

Answer: Oh, those darn tree rats! They love to steal ripening fruit the day before you are ready to pick. Then they sit there in the trees, laughing at you! I don’t have an easy solution. Trapping and removing the squirrel is one thought, but squirrels are territorial, and more will move in. The best option is exclusion. That is to add some type of barrier to help reduce the chance of them getting to the tomatoes. Fruit tree netting can be placed over the plants and secured at the soil level.

Some gardeners build a cage fitting over their tomato patch with

PVC piping and fruit tree netting.

Another option is repurposing the dog kennel. These chain link structures can be converted to valuable gardening space as they have walls, a ceiling and a gate for access.

There is another option to eliminate squirrels… but it is illegal in most cities.

ORCHARDGRASS IS DIFFICULT TO ELIMINATE Question: I have these rough patchy looking clumps of grass scattered throughout my yard. It has been identified as orchardgrass. What do you suggest as the best method of control for this weed?

Answer: Orchardgrass is a coarse-textured perennial grassy weed. It is commonly found in poor quality grass seed and some-

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Animal fencing over raised bed helps with critter control. times homeowners unknowingly plant it when seeding their lawn.

Considered a pasture grass, it is not suitable for the lawn. Once established in the turf, it is difficult to eradicate.

Control options are limited as there is no selective herbicide that eliminates just orchardgrass without damaging the tall fescue or bluegrass you are trying to grow.

You can hand dig out the clumps or treat with a herbicide, like glyphosate (Round-Up type products).

This application also kills your lawn so be careful in applying.

Orchardgrass is a cool-season grass meaning control is best achieved in the spring when actively growing.

Unfortunately, this timing makes

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CONTROLS FOR BAGWORM Question: My spruce suffered damage from bagworms last year.

When is the best time to control them before they do more damage?

Answer: The bagworm population was high in the last couple of years. They can seemingly devour the foliage on evergreens overnight, ruining the look or killing a tree. The ideal time to treat for bagworms is just after they hatch.

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Orchardgrass is hard to eradicate.

Bagworms are about the size of pencil lead.

At that time, they are about the size of the lead in a sharpened pencil.

As they grow, they spin the silken bag with plant parts. Controlling them is more difficult once they are growing in their bags.

Bagworms hatch beginning in late May through mid-June, depending on the season. Applying insecticide sprays during this window usually does the trick. One or two applications are recommended. There are a variety of insecticides that kill the young hatchlings.

Spinosad is effective, as well as the product called BT. Both are considered organic. Be sure to get thorough coverage of the tree for best control. If you had them last year, be prepared to spray again this year.

thing wrong or what might have caused the number of blooms to decrease?

Answer: Daffodils are one of our most dependable spring flowering bulbs. But from time to time, the number of flowers can decrease.

There are several potential reasons.

These include: removal of foliage before it died down naturally in the spring, tying up foliage in an effort to keep the garden neat, a short spring season with early hot days decreases the amount of energy for the bulbs, increased shading, or overgrown clumps.

To help ensure as many blooms as possible, never remove the foliage until it yellows and don’t tie it up with a rubber band or braid.

Increased shading from maturing trees happens over time. Lastly, if the clumps are older it might be time to dig and divide. This can be done when the foliage yellows. Dig and replant or hold until fall for replanting.

WHAT CAUSED DAFFODILS TO PRODUCE FEWER BLOOMS Question: It seemed like my daffodils did not have as many blooms this spring. Is there some-

Remove Daffodil foliage after it yellows.

FINDING A GRUB IN THE GARDEN MEANS WHAT? Question: When digging in the vegetable garden to plant, I found several grubs. How do I control them in the vegetable garden as products used in the lawn are not labeled for edible crops?

Answer: White grubs can be found in most soils but finding a grub here or there is no reason for concern. Grub damage in lawns requires as many as 6 to 8 per square foot. Finding an occasional grub in the flower or vegetable garden really means you have soil

healthy enough to support their development.

So, if you find one here and there, just kill it or throw it out for the birds. In most cases, the roots of vegetables are not dense enough to support a high population of grubs that will harm your garden plants.

Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

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Fruit Tree Fungal Diseases

S

ummer is here! Summer brings a bounty of activities, including extra work in the yard and landscape — especially for those with an annual vegetable garden or perennial fruiting plants and trees. But as the temperatures begin to rise, fungal diseases begin to make themselves known, particularly on any type of fruit tree, such as crabapple, pear, apple, and peach. There are a few common fungal diseases that we deal with here in the Midwest, and knowing what symptoms to look for can help determine the steps you need to take to keep your trees healthy.

Apple Scab This disease affects the leaves and fruits of both crabapple and apple trees, caused by the fungus Venturia inaequalis. In the late

spring and early summer, it causes brown spots and lesions to form on the leaves and fruits of these types of trees. It can be especially bad in very wet springs where the rainfall is frequent and the night temperatures stay cool. The best method to control and prevent this disease from damaging your trees is to spray fungicides at regular intervals of two to three weeks during the period when disease pressure is the highest and the conditions are right for the fungus to develop and spread. In the Kansas City area that is usually from when they first leaf out in late March, through the end of May. Rust Diseases While cedar-apple rust is the most common and well-known of the rust diseases, there are sev-

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Arborist LORAN WILEY reviews fungal diseases that besiege fruit trees, identification and solutions.

Apple scab eral others that can plague your trees. Fortunately, they all have similar enough symptoms and the same method for controlling and preventing them that they can all be lumped into one category. The cedar-apple rust, caused by the fungus Gymnosporangium juniper-virginianae, is most notable for the bright orange and brown galls that it causes on junipers and native cedars. These can be seen in mid-spring as they release their spores, which float through the air to land on their second host, your apple, crabapple or hawthorn trees.

There is also a similar fungus that causes the same symptoms on pear trees. As the rust diseases begin to develop on the leaves, small, pale yellow spots will begin to appear.

They continue to grow and turn into bright orange spots and lesions that are later accompanied by small black dots that begin to cover the leaves. If the infestation is heavy enough, the leaves will begin to fall from the tree, causing light to moderate defoliation. Left untreated for several seasons, this will slowly weaken the tree. The best method to control rust diseases is very similar to the control of apple scab. Regular fungicide applications during the same window of heavy disease pressure will keep your trees happy and fungus free.

Peach Leaf Curl This disease is caused by the fungus Taphrina deformans. It is a very tricky disease that in heavy

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infestations can cause serious defoliation, fruit deformities and loss of tree vigor. Fortunately, in most cases, you will likely only see small amounts of this disease that disappear as we reach the high temperatures of summer. The first symptoms show up about three to four weeks after the tree blooms,

Peach leaf curl can only be mildly treated with a copper fungicide spray in fall after the leaves drop, or in very early spring before bud break (some cases may need both sprays). Even with the sprays, it is a tricky disease and it is very normal to still see some symptoms after treatment. So even though it

Peach curl disease

the active ingredient, or a copperbased active ingredient, but always read the label first to be sure the product you use will control the specific fungus you are battling.

Be sure to read the label and use the proper mix rates to be sure only the correct amount of chemical gets sprayed on the trees, and

Pear tree rust

depending on the weather. The leaves will become red and contorted, curling and thickening, making them appear as if they have a bad case of poison ivy.

Eventually, these infected leaves will turn brown and drop off. For many, this will be as bad as it gets.

However, some peach trees are more susceptible. In those cases, the symptoms may persist on the tree for a month or more, spreading to more leaves and even infecting the fruits with the same red and bumpy “rash.” Those severe infections will require treatment. The only bad news is that by the time symptoms appear, it is absolutely too late to do anything about it.

is too late to spray for this season, now you can be prepared to take care of it for next season.

Proper Fungicide There are two pillars to consider when treating your fruit trees: using the proper fungicide and using it at the proper time. While there are many different fungicides on the market to control fungal diseases in trees, there aren’t as many that are labeled for fruit trees. You have to be careful when spraying any tree that will have fruit that is planned for consumption. The aforementioned fungal diseases are usually controlled by fungicides containing myclobutanil as

always be sure to observe a proper withdrawal period, only harvesting the fruit after the labeled number of days. Using the chemicals properly will ensure that you can safely enjoy the bountiful harvest of fruit from your trees.

Proper Timing The best thing to remember about the perfect timing for fungal diseases is that prevention is the best medicine. Most fungal diseases are best controlled if the first spray is timed to when the trees first leaf out. Fungicides act as a preventative, protecting the young leaves from the invading fungi.

This means that they don’t always provide as many curative benefits.

However, if symptoms are mild, and it isn’t too late in the season, fungicides can still help lessen the symptoms. Worst case, you are now able to identify which fungus is attacking your trees, know how to prevent the problem next season, and you can continue to enjoy growing and eating your own fruit from your healthy trees.

Loran Wiley is a four-year professional arborist with Ryan Lawn and Tree and a Kansas City native.

He has an extensive background in orchard management and production horticulture. He has almost ten years of experience in the green and agriculture industry and has a bachelor’s degree in horticulture from the College of the Ozarks.

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9

Gardens with Environmental Benefits

I

n this article, I ponder the question, what good are native plants?

I value plants for how they look, smell, and feel. Qualities like color, texture, itchiness and shape, influence my opinion.

But I also value plants for how they work. They create the air we breathe, move stormwater into the ground, prevent erosion along creeks, and perhaps most importantly, they convert sunlight into food. That’s how Dr. Doug Tallamy puts it.

Tallamy, author of The New York Times best-selling book, Nature’s Best Hope, discusses how different plants feed animals. In particular, he compares a native white oak tree in his yard with a non-native Bradford pear in his

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neighbor’s yard. He found 410 caterpillars on the oak, and one caterpillar on the Bradford pear.

Repeating the survey on different trees, he came up with the same results and the question, what is so different that about the oak and pear? Tallamy, an entomologist at the University of Delaware, understood the answer: It’s that the ancient lineage of white oak that ended up in his yard, “familiarized” itself with certain insect caterpillars over millions of years that are now immune to its toxic chemicals.

The Bradford pear, on the other hand, was introduced from China a hundred years ago, which is not nearly enough time for caterpillars of local species to acquire a taste for Bradford pear leaves.

Now, if you are “old-school” like me, your eyebrows may rise a little at the thought of insects eating plants. It was drilled into me through college courses, like Plant Pathology 101, that if plants have holes, there is a treatment that won’t end well for the insect. This is bad news for hungry caterpillars, but it’s even worse for nesting birds, which feed their young on as many as 8,000 caterpillars per nest, says Tallamy.

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Native plant guru, SCOTT WOODBURY reviews what elements to consider when deciding to include natives.

White oak leaves provide food for this caterpillar of the polyphemus moth, and for caterpillars of more than 500 other kinds of butterflies and moths. Native plants like white oaks are the foundation for our local web of life. can homeowners do for birds, and where do so many caterpillars exist? They’re on Tallamy’s white oaks of course, and other oak species. They are also on wild cherry, hickory, hackberry, black gum, willow, pawpaw, persimmon, and so many more. But how many native trees is enough? Five, ten, or ten thousand? The answer, according to Tallamy, is 70% native species for successful bird nesting.

Anything less, leads to a decline in bird populations. This is good news, because now we know where the threshold lies.

We can inventory our landscapes and set goals based on scientific evidence. But we don’t have to remove all non-native plants.

Thirty percent can be ginkgo and saucer magnolias or other favorite non-native plants that we have come to love.

But be careful: our love-affair with far-flung plants sometimes comes with a price. Bradford pear, burning bush, Japanese beautyberry, golden raintree, heavenly bamboo, empress tree, and so many others are becoming highly invasive and cause serious environmental damage to the remaining few wild areas. Tallamy proposes in his book that eighty-six percent of land in the United States is privately owned (93% in Missouri).

That includes our yards, common areas, churches, zoos, gardens, universities, businesses, and potentially some schools and parks. He says that our neighborhoods offer

viable opportunities for meeting the seventy percent threshold for bird survival. Will you join me in doing our part to meet this important goal in the coming years and decades? The living world around you is depending on it!

If you would like to learn more about gardening with native plants, attend a Council Ring Conversation in the Whitmire Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve in Gray Summit, MO. Upcoming conversations include Rainscaping Practices on June 11, Seeded Prairie and Savanna on July 9, Incorporating Native Landscape concepts into Existing Non-native Gardens on September 3, Designed Plant Communities on October 8, and Gardening with Environmental Benefits on November 12. You can also find a wealth of information about native plants for gardening and other uses at www.grownative. org.

Horticulturist Scott Woodbury is the Curator of the Whitmore Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve in Gray Summit, MO, where he has worked with native plant propagation, design, and education for 28 years, and which is supported by the Missouri Department of Conservation. He also is an advisor to the Missouri Prairie Foundation’s Grow Native! program. Find suppliers native plants and native plant services at www.grownative.org, Resource Guide.

ith the increasing number of hosta cultivars being introduced each year it is increasingly difficult for nursery owners and gardeners to choose just the right hostas for their sales areas and gardens. To this end the American Hosta Growers Association established the AHGA Hosta of the Year in 1996. It is selected by a vote of AHGA members.

Award winners are hostas that are good garden plants in all regions of the country, are widely available in sufficient supply, and retail for about $15.00 in the year of selection.

Photo courtesy of Kent Terpening.

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The Kansas City Gardener | June 2020

11

Outstanding Annuals showy plants, proven winners

CHELSEA DIDDE RICE profiles several annuals from the brand Proven Winners sure to succeed in landscapes and containers.

E

ver find a brand or company that consistently delivers incredible experiences with its products or services? When you do, you’ll become what we advertising and communication folks call a “brand advocate.”

For me, there are a select few brands, products and businesses I’ll consistently recommend to others in casual conversation. Rothy’s shoes, Great Plains SPCA, Vitamix blenders, Proven Winners® plants and two or three others. I’m an equal opportunity gardener, supporting many brands, products and businesses, but Proven Winners always seems to give me exactly what I am looking for and produces high quality plants that are well tested and worth the price. Below, I’ll walk through several of my favorite annuals that have performed well in multiple locations with minimal required maintenance. Please note that although this article focuses on Proven Winners, it is not sponsored.

ColorBlaze® Coleus Gone are the days where coleus is restricted to shade containers and garden beds. Many varieties, including several from Proven Winners, actually perform better with part to full sun. The deep reds, lime greens and colors in between will fit any landscape and provide low maintenance color all season long. This year, thanks to a late April curbside pickup at a local garden center, I’m showcasing ColorBlaze® Golden Dreams™ coleus in my front porch pots. It was one of a few plants I just HAD to have for the summer season after seeing it in a gardening video last year. It has stunning chartreuse foliage with red veins that give each leaf incredible depth and interest. Other beautiful ColorBlaze coleus varieties growing in my garden this year include Wicked Witch™, Dipt in Wine™ and Lime Time™. It truly amazes me what plant breeders are able to create – these coleus are like works of art.

Supertunia® It never ceases to astonish me just how quickly a Supertunia petunia can fill out a container or garden bed. They’re vigorous grow12

June 2020 | kcgmag.com

ers, come in a rainbow of bloom colors, and since they’re self-cleaning, they’re relatively low maintenance. If you start seeing holes in the blooms or notice a sudden lack of blooms, check the plant carefully for small green or brown caterpillars, which are called budworms.

They can be curtailed with a regular application of BT (bacillus thuringiensis), which is a naturally occurring soil bacteria that’s approved for

a manageable size (30 inches tall) yet doesn’t get swallowed by vigorous plant neighbors. It loves water and will flourish in boggy areas where little else grows, though it’ll succeed in areas and containers with less water as well. One interesting fact is that as a form of Egyptian Papyrus, these are similar to some of the original types of plants used to make paper.

Diamond Frost® Euphorbia Delicate in looks but tough in performance – Diamond Frost Euphorbia is the container and landscape plant that plays well with everyone else. It’s not picky about fertilizer or watering (preferring drier soil over damp) and will weave in between its neighbors creating an ethereal and airy look that is 18 inches tall and wide.

Diamond Frost is my favorite, but there are two others in the Diamond Collection of euphorbia – Diamond Mountain® (aptly named, as it grows three feet tall and wide) and Diamond Snow®, which has a denser, double flowered look.

Heart to Heart Caladium ‘Heart and Soul’

organic gardening. Since I’ve had budworms in the past and know there may be eggs lurking in my soil, I start preventatively spraying BT with a handheld pump sprayer (which makes for quick work) every two weeks, starting in early June.

Yes, it is maintenance ... but when you see the incredible Supertunia performance, you’ll happily spend 15 minutes on preventative treatment once in a while. If you’re a fan of scented flowers, check out Supertunia® Royal Velvet®, a rich deep purple petunia with a heavenly scent.

Graceful Grasses® Prince Tut® Looking for a unique and tropical thriller for a container or damp patch of landscape? Check out the Tut series, which comes in three heights (Baby Tut®, Prince Tut® and King Tut®). I’ve grown all three and prefer Prince Tut as it stays

Heart to Heart™ Caladium If you’re filling a container or flower bed in the shade, keep an eye out for the new Heart to Heart caladium collection. I haven’t tried any of these new varieties yet, but I’ve seen them mentioned in countless industry articles and videos. What I DO know is that Proven Winners partnered with Classic Caladiums on this line, and because Classic Caladiums is one of the top caladium breeders in the industry, these plants are sure to be a success.

As you head for the garden center to deck out your containers and fill up those flower beds, consider foregoing your usual standbys and experiment with a vibrant ColorBlaze coleus or showy Supertunia. Their performance and eye catching color will keep you mesmerised all season long. Maybe, one day, you’ll become a Proven Winners brand advocate too.

When Chelsea Didde Rice isn’t at work as a senior communications specialist, she’s an avid gardener who enjoys teaching people how easy it can be to garden.

Photos courtesy of Proven Winners.

Euphorbia Diamond Mountain

Euphorbia Diamond Snow

Papyrus Prince Tut

Supertunia Royal Velvet

Supertunia Limoncello

Above: Coleus Wicked Witch; Below: Caladium Lemon Blush

Above: Coleus Dipt in Wine; Below Euphorbia Diamond Mountain

The Kansas City Gardener | June 2020

13

June is Family Time

J

une is a great month to look for baby birds at your feeders.

Many of your backyard birds have had their first brood and might even be working on their second this time of year. If you’ve noticed some different looking birds or behaviors at your feeders, you’re witnessing new families bringing their fledglings out into the world!

Here are some characteristics and behaviors to look for when watching these fledgling birds as they begin to leave the nest: • Fledglings are about the same size as adults, but often their plumage color is muted and similar to adult females. Fledglings sometimes also sport a quite rumpled appearance.

• In some species, fledglings’ tails are shorter than the adults’,

because the tail feathers are still growing. A recent research study demonstrated that supplemental bird feeding provides a direct nutritional benefit that supports higherquality feather growth for birds like these fledglings.

• Baby birds beg by flapping their wings and squawking loudly with wide open beaks.

• Unlike many other species, you can recognize Downy and other woodpecker fledglings by their fresh and dapper plumage, whereas that of the adults is worn and dusky from their repeated trips in and out of the nest hole.

• Chickadee fledglings follow their parents to the bird feeder and perch nearby as the parents go to get food. They either wait, looking like they are waiting to be served,

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June 2020 | kcgmag.com

Photo courtesy of Missouri Dept. of Conservation.

Local birding expert, THERESA HIREMATH highlights the distinguishable characteristics when identifying birds.

An American robin offers a meal to hungry hatchlings waiting in their nest. Bird nesting behavior peaks in late spring. Learn more about bird behavior, and find places near you to observe birds in the wild at MissouriConservation.org. or they call incessantly “teeship teeship” and flutter their wings until fed.

• After one to three weeks, the parents stop feeding their fledglings and may even peck at them if they persist in begging for food.

During nesting season, adult birds need high energy foods to help them keep up with the demands of their youngsters. Some foods are better than others for new fledglings. Insects are highly favored, so live mealworms are attractive to parents feeding young.

Spreadable suet and suet bits are also excellent food choices as they are highly nutritious, easily carried, and easily swallowed. As nesting season progresses, continue to offer suet that contains calcium and consider switching to “no-melt” suet doughs as the summer temperatures kick in.

Mockingbirds, cardinals, and woodpeckers love suet with fruit added for extra energy. You can also feed fresh fruit by itself to your birds. Tanagers, orioles, woodpeckers and grosbeaks love oranges and apples, and may bring their babies to your feeder. Robins, starlings, and waxwings prefer dried fruit.

Black oil sunflower is also an excellent feeding option, with its high oil and fat content. Adult

birds often crack open the black-oil sunflower shell and feed the meat inside to their young. If you don’t want any sprouting or the mess of shells in your yard, use sunflower chips or a no-mess blend that has a high percentage of black oil sunflower chips.

Shelled nuts are great to add to your mix of birdseed, but woodpeckers, chickadees and nuthatches may come more often to a feeder offering only shelled nuts. Adult woodpeckers will bring their young to your nut feeders, and will break peanuts into little pieces for their baby, who is impatiently clinging to the side of a tree. Baby woodpeckers often make a lot of noise to encourage their parents to feed them, so listen for their chatter.

If you haven’t already done so, keep your birdbaths filled with fresh water, and add an agitating device to keep the mosquitos at bay.

This is an interesting and exciting time of year for bird watching as you observe both parenting and juvenile antics at your feeders, so take the time to enjoy the show!

Nik and Theresa Hiremath own and operate Wild Birds Unlimited of Leawood at 11711 Roe Avenue, Leawood, Kansas. Contact them at 913-491-4887.

Apply now for Johnson County K-State Extension Master Gardener program

I

f you enjoy gardening, working with others and having fun while sharing your passion, then the Extension Master Gardener (EMG) program may be just the opportunity for you.

Applications are now being accepted for the Johnson County K-State Research and Extension Master Gardener Class of 2021 training program. The application deadline is July 15, 2020.

Training sessions are Tuesdays, September 22 through November 17, 9 a.m. – 4 p.m. All classes will be conducted at the Johnson County Extension office, 11811 S. Sunset Drive, Suite 1500 in Olathe.

There is a $125 administration fee for those accepted into the class.

Class members must be Johnson County residents.

Only 30 applicants are accepted into this prestigious program.

Applicants are selected on the basis of gardening and volunteering experience, ability to attend training sessions and volunteer activities, and, most importantly, willingness to commit long term to the annual requirement of volunteer service. Gardeners who join the program bring many different experience levels and interests to the program. If you are a novice gardener, do not let the title of

Receive intensive horticulture-related training from university and industry experts. In return, newly-trained recruits will be required to volunteer.

Extension Master Gardener intimidate you. Your love of gardening and passion for sharing your garden experience is the basis for success.

An orientation session to learn more about the program will be held on Wednesday, June 10 at 10 a.m. over Zoom, by webcam or smartphone. Preregistration is required for the orientation. Please contact Karen Bailey, EMG Volunteer Coordinator, at karen.bailey@jocogov.org to receive an invitation to join the Zoom meeting.

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The EMG program, sponsored by K-State Research and Extension, is designed to teach area gardeners about horticulture and

give them the opportunity to share their knowledge through various gardening-related volunteer projects. Applicants who are selected will receive intensive horticulturerelated training from university and industry experts. In return, newlytrained recruits will be required to volunteer a minimum of time each year.

EMG volunteers get involved in a variety of projects, including maintaining demonstration gardens, staffing a gardening hotline and giving presentations through the speakers’ bureau. Youth programs are also another avenue for volunteer participation.

If you are interested in applying for the program or would like more information, please contact Johnson County Extension at (913) 715-7000 or visit www.johnson.kstate.edu and click on the Extension Master Gardener link for details.

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www.missouriorganic.com The Kansas City Gardener | June 2020

15

The Rebels: Flower Moths Butterfly maven, LENORA LARSON, answers frequently asked questions about butterflies.

Flower Moths, the Rule-breakers A group of moths called the “Flower Moths” defies all of these generalities by being diurnal (active in the daytime) with brightly colored wings and actively visiting flowers to drink nectar. How do we know that they are moths? They have a moth’s thread-like antennae without a knob on the end. Many are in the

genus Schinia and have a restricted host plant while other genera include some pesky polyphagous diners. All are considered “small” with a wingspread in the one-inch range. Fortunately, Kansas and Missouri are favored locations so you will have many opportunities to spy these little jewels frolicking in the sun and nectaring on flowers. See the photo gallery to meet

• Usually butterflies are brilliantly colored while moths are drab.

• Usually butterflies drink nectar, while moths don’t even have a tongue and consume nothing.

Ragweed is the host plant of the Ragweed Schinia flower moth.

The parent of the obnoxious “worms” in an ear of corn is this green-eyed beauty, the Corn Earworm flower moth.

This charming flower moth is the parent of the despicable Tobacco Budworm, which devours your Petunia buds.

The Clouded Crimson Schinia flower moth nectars on Gaura, its caterpillar’s host plant.

But Mother Nature enjoys confusing naturalists, so there are also many also exceptions to these usual differences.

Moths versus Butterflies: a Clear Difference The one clearly defining difference between butterflies and moths is in the antennae. Butterfly antennae are always facing forward as a long thread with a knot on the end, except for Skipper butterflies whose antennae end in a jaunty crochet hook. Moth antennae may be thread-like or ferny but there’s never an adornment on the end.

And many families of moths hold their antennae swept back against the body, like an Elvis hairdo.

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June 2020 | kcgmag.com

Marais des Cygnes Extension Master Gardener, Idalia Butterfly Society and Kansas Native Plant Society member, Lenora Larson gardens and hosts butterflies in the cruel winds and clay soil of Paola, Kansas. She may be contacted at lenora.longlips@gmail.com.

Charming Butterfly-wannabes

• Usually, butterflies fly during the day and moths fly at night.

• Butterflies rest with wings closed and most moths rest with wings widespread or “tented”.

some of these charming butterflywannabes.

Photos courtesy of Lenora Larson.

B

eginners frequently ask me, “What’s the difference between moths and butterflies?” Since they are both in the order Lepidoptera, they do have many similarities such as scaly wings, complete metamorphosis (four life stages) and similar larvae, which are correctly referred to as caterpillars. Host plant specificity is stronger for butterflies, but about 90% of butterfly and moth mothers have a short list of host plants for egg-laying.

When butterflies evolved from moths about 60 million years ago, some “rules” also evolved. In general:

Zucchinis: Not That Easy to Grow Anymore

A

s gardeners I am sure that somewhere along the way we have heard the zucchini jokes. You know, like the one about how neighbors all hide when you try to give away your produce.

It seems it used to be that you could not stop a zucchini plant from producing.

Now, calls to the Johnson County Extension Gardening Hotline (913) 715-7050 or garden. help@jocogov.org paint a different picture, as people wonder what it takes to grow this crop. There are several potential problems that could be the cause for lack of production.

Zucchini flowers but no fruit “I get lots of flowers but no fruit,” is one common comment. Zucchini have separate male and female flowers. The males produce the pollen for female flowers that have the tiny squash developing behind the bright orange flowers. Squash produce numerous male flowers for each female. Early on, they develop male flowers before the females.

This over-development of the male flowers is to ensure that pollen will be available to fertilize the female flower or fruits. The solution: wait it out, as a healthy plant should start to produce female flowers.

Zucchini fruit set but rot Rainy weather that continues throughout the month of June can lead to fruit rot on squash. These damp conditions can cause the ends of the fruit lying on the ground to decay. The solution: mulch the

plants to keep the fruit off the ground and dry.

Squash Bugs Squash bugs have long been a nemesis of all members of the squash family. These grayish-black and orange bugs attack the plants by the hundreds, sucking the sap and nourishment from the plant resulting in the collapse of the vine. Squash bugs are easiest to control when they are small grayish nymphs starting to feed. The solution: monitor the plant for the presence of the insect and spray with an insecticide as soon as they appear. Be sure to spray around the base of the plant and up under the leaves for best control.

Squash vine borer Of all the problems with zucchini this may be the worst and most difficult to control. The vine borer is an insect that lays its eggs on the main stem of the plant

where it emerges from the ground.

The eggs hatch and bore into the stem. As the insect develops into large, dirty white grub-like larvae, it destroys the vascular system of the plant resulting in its death. Once the plant has collapsed there are no controls. The solution is to start preventive insecticide sprays soon after the plant has

emerged from the soil. This will require repeated applications every couple of weeks for best control targeted at the plant’s main stem.

The good news is that applications for the borer will also control squash bugs.

Based on all these problems one might ask, why grow zucchini, especially when you can buy them at the supermarket for around a buck a pound? We already know the answer to that question, as fresh homegrown always taste better. Times have changed and now people tend to hoard their bounty.

Because, as we know, what would summer be like without fresh zucchini slices, grilled zucchini, zucchini bread, or my favorite, chocolate chip zucchini cake?

Article reprinted with permission from Johnson County Research & Extension, johnson.k-state.edu.

Let’s Look Forward!

Summer looks bright at Powell Gardens.

Head outside for blooms, events, and fun for the whole family.

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SUMMER 2020 The Kansas City Gardener | June 2020

17

Photos courtesy of perennialplant.org.

2020 Perennial Plant of the Year® Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’

I

t is a secret that just Perennial Plant Association members know! The 2020 Perennial Plant of the Year® is Aralia cordata ‘Sun King’. It had been nominated again and again over the past years and finally came out on top – persistence pays off!

BEHOLD, THE SUN KING! No, not Louis XIV of France, rather, a fabulous high-impact perennial. Aralia ‘Sun King’ brings a bold pop of glowing color and texture – the perfect anchor for the shade to shade-to-part-shade border.

“Discovered” by plantsman Barry Yinger in a Japanese garden center (atop a department store), this perennial has become a beloved shade garden staple across the country. Bright yellow shoots emerge in spring, then grow up, up, up...can reach 6 feet tall and nearly as wide. The small, cream-colored umbels of flowers are attractive to bees and are followed by tiny dark (inedible) drupes. Despite the Sun King’s stature, it’s very well behaved – little to no reseeding or suckering.

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USES Terrific in combination with hosta, ferns, and past PPOY stars such as Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ (2013) and Brunnnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ (2012). A knockout when placed near Acer palmatum ‘Bloodgood’ or other maroon-leaf woody. And don’t forget containers – Sun King is bold and beautiful in a big pot!

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low; tends to be more chartreuse in deeper shade.

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We recognize and encourage social distancing guidelines recommended by the CDC. There has never been a more important time to shop your local, family-owned garden centers.

UNIQUE QUALITIES Bold, gold, compound foliage is deer resistant. Bigger than your average perennial, Sun King is frequently described as 4 feet tall and as wide, once established, but 6 feet tall is not unusual for older plants. Aralia ‘Sun King’ won the International Hardy Plant Union Outstanding Plant Award in 2012.

The species Aralia cordata is a member of the Araliaceae family.

Native to Japan, Korea, and SE China, where the young shoots are harvested and blanched or pickled.

MAINTENANCE Low maintenance deciduous perennial; remove dead foliage after a freeze. Supplemental water helps keep foliage from getting crispy during a dry spell.

HARDINESS USDA Zones 3 to 9 GROWER NOTES Aralia ‘Sun King’ has no patents or other restrictions. Propagate by vegetative cuttings (stem or root).

A quick and easy crop from rooted liners, one- or two-gallon containers finish in 6-10 weeks. Smaller pot sizes not recommended. Do not allow to dry down – requires consistent moisture and moderate fertility. Pinch helpful, no PGRs required.

Thanks to The Perennial Plant of the Year® (PPOY) program began in 1990 to showcase a perennial that is a standout among its competitors. Perennials chosen are suit-

able for a wide range of growing climates, require low maintenance, have multiple-season interest, and are relatively pest/disease-free. If you are looking for an excellent perennial for your next landscape project or something reliable for your gardens, make sure to check out the Perennial Plant of the Year® archive list at perennialplant.org.

Since the Perennial Plant of the Year® was introduced in 1990, the Perennial Plant Association has received frequent inquiries about how the Perennial Plant of the Year® is selected. The selection process is quite simple – PPA members vote for the Perennial Plant of the Year® each summer.

At that time, in addition to the vote, each member may also nominate up to two plants for future consideration. The Perennial Plant of the Year® committee reviews the nominated perennials (more than 400 different perennials are often nominated each year) and selects 3 or 4 perennials to be placed on the ballot.

Nominations generally need to satisfy the following criteria: • Suitability for a wide range of climatic conditions • Low-maintenance requirements • Relative pest- and diseaseresistance • Ready availability in the year of promotion • Multiple seasons of ornamental interest.

Ask your local garden center professional about including ‘Sun King’ in your landscape.

Powell Gardens Events Species Spotlight: Pond Ecosystems Saturday, June 6 | 10:30–11:30 a.m.

LOCATION: Powell Gardens, Visitor Center & Education Pond Free with general admission | Admission is free for members Join a Powell Gardens docent for a family-friendly walk to our education pond. After investigating the unique features of the pond, families will use watercolors to paint pictures. This experience is suited for families with kids ages five to twelve. This guided experience is a short walk from the Visitor’s Center to the pond. Come prepared with bug spray and sunscreen. Space is limited, so please register online in advance. Register: https://25043p.blackbaudhosting. com/25043p/Species-Spotlight-Pond-EcoSystems Work & Learn: Growing Butterfly-Friendly Plants Tuesday, June 9 | 9 a.m.–noon LOCATION: Powell Gardens, Greenhouses $25 | Members receive 10% off This special workshop provides an opportunity to polish your greenhouse skills and learn some tricks of the trade for maintaining the Native Butterfly Habitat from Horticulturalist Eric Perrette. Learn which plants to select for your home garden to attract butterflies all season, techniques for sowing seeds, and how to propagate plants using our plant collection. Participants will learn how to prune lantana into a tree and take home a lantana cutting. Participants should bring plenty of water, a snack, and dress for the weather (wear sunprotection clothing, sunscreen, a hat, and closed toe shoes please).

Tools will be provided. Register: https://25043p.blackbaudhosting. com/25043p/Work--Learn-Growing-Butterfly-Friendly-Plants Work & Learn: Aquatic Gardening Thursday, June 11 | 9 a.m.–noon LOCATION: Powell Gardens, Marlese Gourley Lowe Island Garden $25 | Members receive 10% off Join aquatic plants horticulturist, Matt Hockaday, to learn how to grow and care for water lilies. Participants will re-pot tropical water lilies and marginals, groom and fertilize hardy water lilies and marginals, and maneuver through the Marlese Lowe Gourley Island Garden’s pools to place the pots of water lilies. Participants should bring plenty of water, a snack, and dress for the weather (wear sunprotection clothing, sunscreen, a hat, and closed toe shoes please).

Tools and waders will be provided. Register: https://25043p.blackbaudhosting.com/25043p/Work--Learn-Aquatic-Gardening Family Frolic: Pollinators in Flight Saturday, June 20 | 10 a.m.–4 p.m.

LOCATION: Powell Gardens Free with general admission | Admission is free for members Bring the family out to Powell Gardens to watch pollinators take flight during National Pollinator Week. Great American Kites and Events will fly their stunning bee, butterfly, and topical kites and the Johnson County Missouri Beekeepers Association will be in attendance with an active beehive to teach families about beekeeping.

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Play With Plants: Succulents Saturday, June 27 | 1-4 p.m.

LOCATION: Powell Gardens, Visitor Center Free with general admission | Admission is free for members Drop in to view Powell Gardens’ collection of succulents displayed in playful containers. Get ideas for succulents and containers to try at home.

The Kansas City Gardener | June 2020

19

Plants on Your Plate – Berry Treasures DENISE SULLIVAN talks about nutritious food and preparing healthy meals, including berries.

I

recently asked a group of friends what early summer fruit or vegetable they were most looking forward to having in abundance.

The overwhelming winner turned out to be strawberries, which also is a personal favorite of mine.

Botanically speaking, the definition of a berry is ‘a fruit produced from the ovary of a single flower, in which the outer layer develops into an edible fleshy portion’.

This definition actually only fits blueberries, but also encompasses many fruits that we do not think of as berries, such as grapes, tomatoes, and bananas. Raspberries and blackberries are classified as aggregate fruits that contain seeds from different ovaries of a single flower, with individual “fruitlets” joined together to form the complete fruit at maturity. Strawberries are accessory fruits, which means that the edible part is derived from the vessel that holds the plant’s ovaries.

Wow…all those definitions make me feel like I took us through the weeds a little bit, almost like when we pick berries!

When choosing fresh berries, look for containers without stains, moisture or mold. Berries should be firm, plump and dry and the

proper color for their variety.

Since strawberries do not ripen after harvest, stay away from green or yellow ones. Avoid blueberries that are green or blackberries that are red, as those are under ripe.

Raspberries come in a variety of colors, so make sure the ones you buy have the right color. Berries should be stored in the refrigerator for up to one week and gently washed just before serving. If freezing berries, wash gently and drain on paper towels to remove as much moisture as possible. Lay berries in a single layer on a sheet pan and freeze until solid, then store in freezer bags in desired quantity. For the freshest and tastiest berries, and even a little fun, go on a berry picking expedition. The Seasonal and Simple tool (https:// seasonalandsimple.info/) and the Missouri Food Finder tool (https:// mofoodfinder.org/) can help you find locations close to you.

Berries are a nutritional powerhouse, full of vitamins, minerals and fiber. They are a great source of antioxidants, such as anthocyanin, ellagic acid, and resveratrol.

In addition to protecting your cells, these plant compounds may reduce risk of some diseases. The low

Berry Banana Frozen Fruit Cups Calories: 127, Total Fat: 1.5g, Saturated Fat: 1.3g, Sodium: 86mg, Carbohydrates: 19g, Fiber: 1.5g, Protein: 7.6g

1 banana, frozen 2 cups plain Greek yogurt 1 cup sliced strawberries or blueberries

Place banana in food processor or blender, process until smooth. Add yogurt and process until smooth. Transfer to bowl and stir in berries. Divide into 4 muffin cups, ramekins or popsicle molds. Freeze until solid.

Makes 4 servings.

Adapted from Seasonal and Simple, analyzed by verywellfit.com.

sugar and high fiber content of berries may improve blood sugar levels and insulin response. Berries also have strong anti-inflammatory properties. Inflammation is your body’s defense against infection or injury. Unfortunately, modern food and lifestyle habits often lead to long-term chronic inflammation, which is believed to contribute to many chronic diseases, such as diabetes and heart disease.

Because of their high nutrition value, berries are often called functional foods or superfoods. Though the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates the use of the term ‘functional foods’, there is not a bona fide definition of the term.

Generally speaking, functional foods have a potentially beneficial effect on health when consumed

waterone.org/smartwatering 20

June 2020 | kcgmag.com

on a regular basis at certain levels.

On top of those stellar nutritional qualities, berries taste great too!

While many people immediately think of pies, cobblers or shortcake for preparing berries, I have adapted the frozen treat through the years, which has become a favorite of adults and kids alike. (For another berry favorite, see the smoothie recipe in the April issue of KCG. Please note that the smoothie recipe makes 1 serving, not 6.)

Denise Sullivan (@MUExtJackson Co) is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For research-based nutrition and food safety information and programs, call 816-482-5850 or visit www. extension2.missouri.edu..

Become an Extension Master Gardener Fall 2020 MU Extension Master Gardener Training

I

f you have a special love of gardening and helping others learn to grow, we encourage to enroll in Extension Master Gardener (EMG) Training facilitated by University of Missouri Extension faculty.

Due to the challenging and uncertain times we are experiencing, University of Missouri Extension Jackson County will offer EMG Training via Zoom this fall.

Extension Master Gardener Training covers introductions to plant and soil science, home lawn care, vegetable gardening, landscaping, ornamental plants, how

and where to volunteer, and more.

Zoom EMG training classes will be offered on Wednesday, 12:30pm to 3:30pm, August 12 to November 18, 2020. The cost is $200 if you commit to volunteering in a wide range of interesting and exciting public outreach activities and projects. The training costs $400 if you take the training for personal enrichment only.

Please contact Cathy Bylinowski, MU Extension Horticulture Instructor, bylinowskic@missouri.edu, 816-252-5051 or 816-482-5850 for more information on the free June 24th Zoom Information Session and how to apply and register for EMG training. Links to registration for the Information Session and to the application and registration form will be available soon on the University of Missouri Extension Jackson County’s website https:// extension2.missouri.edu/counties/ jackson and the Master Gardeners of Greater Kansas City (MGGKC) website http://www.mggkc.org/.

The motto of MU Extension Master Gardeners is “helping others learn to grow.” Put your interest in gardening and your generous spirit to work. Join us!

PLANT SPOTLIGHT Peony ‘Kansas’ H

to lightly shaded spot to plant ere we have a 1957 Gold with good air circulation and Medal Winner from the plenty of room for them to grow.

American Peony Society, the Because they like ample water, ‘Kansas’ Peony. The ‘Kansas’ they do best in Peony produces somewhat heavier huge, double clay-type soils carmine-red and away from blooms atop the roots of trees bold stems. and shrubs.

They are conWhen plantsidered one of ing, water deeply the best double and maintain even red peonies soil moisture around. The until the ground foliage of this Photo courtesy of White Flower Farm. freezes to help peony is a lush, the plant develop as many feeder bushy mound, with glossy, dark roots as possible its first fall. To green leaves that remain attracprotect the delicate roots the first tive throughout the summer. winter, apply mulch. After the ‘Kansas’ Peonies make excellent ground freezes, mound the newly cut flowers too! The ‘Kansas’ planted area with 2-4 inches of Peony grows well in full sun. soil or 5-8 inches of a fluffy, Peonies are tough, undemanding perennials that can bloom non-matting mulch such as straw, cornstalks, peat moss, or everhappily for a century or more green boughs – but not leaves. with little care. Choose a sunny

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The Kansas City Gardener | June 2020

21

June

garden calendar n VEGETABLES AND FRUITS

• Plant squash, cucumbers, sweet corn, green beans and other summer vegetables.

• Conserve moisture and control weeds with mulch.

• Harvest spring vegetables until the end of the season then remove.

• Pinch herbs to keep bushy and fresh with new growth.

• Watch for development of squash bugs as they multiply rapidly.

Control as needed.

• Treat tomato leaf disease with a fungicide if needed.

• Apply one inch of water per week if there is no rain.

• Continue a regular fruit disease and insect control program.

• Fertilize strawberries regularly to promote new growth.

• Renovate June bearing strawberry beds.

• Treat peach trees for borers.

• Remove sucker growth from the base of trees and along branches.

• Turn compost pile and keep moist to hasten breakdown.

n FLOWERS

• Pinch chrysanthemum tips for development of bushier plants.

• Remove spent flower blossoms to keep plant flowering.

• Remove flower stalks from peonies and irises.

• Fertilize roses and trim spent blossoms.

• Check plants for insects.

• Remove dead foliage from spring bulbs.

• Water and fertilize container plantings regularly to encourage growth and flowering.

• Maintain a 2 to 3-inch mulch layer to reduce moisture loss, control weeds and cool soil.

• Apply one inch of water per week if there is no rain.

n LAWN

• Mow bluegrass and tall fescue 3 to 3½-inches to improve drought stress.

• Avoid fertilizing tall fescue and bluegrass during summer.

• Mow zoysia to a height of 1 to 2-inches all season.

• Fertilize zoysia with high nitrogen fertilizer such as 27-3-3, one to two more times this summer.

• Repair dead spots and bare areas in zoysia by sodding or plugging.

• Core aerate zoysia to control thatch and improve water and nutrient uptake.

• Spot treat for summer broadleaf weeds.

• Fertilize naturally by letting grass clippings fall.

• Water the turf sparingly to increase drought tolerance during the heat of summer.

• Begin grub treatments with preventive type insecticides.

• Keep the mower blade sharp for a clean cut.

n TREES AND SHRUBS

• Check for bagworms and control.

• Prune elongated “candles” of new growth on pines and spruces to shape/control size.

• Prune spring flowering shrubs.

• Water newly planted trees and shrubs.

• Check for spider mite damage by shaking branch over white paper.

Mites look like small dots.

• Clip hedges to maintain shape.

• Maintain a mulch ring around young trees and shrubs.

• Prune dead or damaged limbs to correct structure and maintain health.

n HOUSEPLANTS

• Water and fertilize regularly to promote summer growth.

• Repot overgrown plants, shifting up to a one-inch larger pot.

• Rotate pots to provide sunlight on all sides, producing a balanced plant.

• Prune and shape plants.

Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension.

For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

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The Best Way and Time to Hug a Tree

W

hen we hug a tree the best feeling is when we feel the tree hugging back.

When the wind is blowing or gusting to 10 or 25 mph I love to wrap my arms around a 25+-year-old tree with a trunk diameter of 12” to 24” and hold my body close to the tree and squeeze.

If the tree is free standing and the breeze or gusty wind pulls, twists and turns the top of the tree you can feel the enormous force of the tree.

Hold that wonderful hug for 3 or 4 minutes and talk to the tree while the tree is holding you with the tremendous force caused by Mother Nature.

You are feeling that one great tree with its roots deeply entrenched in Planet Earth just as a tree on that same day is entrenched in Sweden, being hugged by some good looking Swedes and another tree entrenched in the great Amur River valley of Asia being hugged by their indigenous peoples.

Every tree wants to be hugged.

Every person truly wants to hug a tree. President Harry S. Truman

retired and moved back to Independence, Missouri, and during his daily walks stopped at a big ginkgo tree near the sidewalk.

He would put his hands on the tree and tell it everything was going to be okay. Reportedly he did that for years. The big ginkgo is still there.

(I would think a good man like Harry Truman put his arms around that tree more than once and talked to it.)

When you talk to a tree tell it you know what it goes through. I tell them how important they are to all of our lives. Holding that great hug on the tree for 3 or 4 minutes you can say a lot and think a lot.

Then go hug more trees. See how many you can hug in just a couple of hours. The best time to hug a tree is when you need a hug.

Ken O’Dell is a lifetime member of the Friends of the Arboretum.

He is a long time volunteer at the Overland Park Arboretum and is the Kansas City regional leader of the Kansas Native Plant Society.

Hotlines for Gardeners Extension Master Gardeners are ready to answer your gardening questions.

CASS COUNTY

816-380-8494; Wed, 9am-noon

DOUGLAS COUNTY

785-843-7058; mastergardener@douglas-county.com; Mon-Fri, 1-4pm

GREATER KANSAS CITY MISSOURI AREA

816-833-8733 (TREE); Mon-Fri, 9am-noon; mggkc.hotline@gmail.com

JOHNSON COUNTY, KS

913-715-7050; Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm; garden.help@jocogov.org

JOHNSON COUNTY, MO

660-747-3193; Wed, 9am-noon

Tree hugger Ken O’Dell

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For convenient mail delivery, complete the form below and send with your check for $25.00. You will receive a one-year subscription to The Kansas City Gardener.

MIAMI COUNTY

913-299-9300; Mon, Wed, Fri, 9am-4pm

QUESTIONS ABOUT ROSES?

Ask a Rosarian; kcrosehelp@gmail.com; www.kansascityrosesociety.org

2015

r Garden

for the Octobe

ity with Grasses Beauty and Divers een Not Just for HallowCall 811 Orange and Black: Lemon rd of Digth Control BeforeBiYou Daylily: Beau Park eM ty for fy Weeds for Better Identi Decis ThanBu ion Time: ShouSeeded Lawn More a tte Dayrfl onth: Blue In the bird y Ask andExpe Feeding of Newly ld You Remove YourGaAsh rdenTree Conserva rts about weed Proper Carethe with tories control, oozin g sap and more Marvin Snyder

City, State, Zip: E-mail: Where did you pick up The Kansas City Gardener?

WYANDOTTE COUNTY

July

Address: Phone:

913-294-4306; Thurs, 9am-noon

d the W ate Butterflies and Bee s Love These rlilies Spooky Plants

Name:

LEAVENWORTH COUNTY

913-364-5700; Apr thru Sep, Mon 10am-4pm, Thurs 10am-4pm

GAR G A RENEDREN E R N D E D R A G ER Beyon The K T ty K an sa Cihe s C it y a n s a s C Th e Ka ns as ity A M on

Please enclose your check payable to The Kansas City Gardener and mail with this form to: P.O. Box 8725, Prairie Village, KS 66208 The Kansas City Gardener is published monthly Jan. through Dec.

The Kansas City Gardener | June 2020

23

Annual Combo Pots

Finishing Touches

Combo Pots and hanging baskets will add summer-long color to your porch, deck, or patio.

CORAL BELLS -WITH FOLIAGE IN A WONDERFUL VARIETY OF COLORS-

A great perennial for the shady garden. Choose from our many varieties of blooming and pollinator-friendly perennials.

Tropical Plants Summer-long color for your deck or patio

Unique Gifts

Make a Statement

Colorful Pots

The finishing touch to bring color and elegance to your garden or deck - Is it a colorful pot, a cooling fountain, an elegant statue? You’ll find hundreds of choices at Suburban. Your outdoors will look fabulous!

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