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TJournal entry: gratitude
he air is crisp and the fall color vibrant as I set out for a walk around the neighborhood. Skeltons and spiders still haunt the landscape, and a few candy wrappers, remnants of trickor-treating, litter the sidewalks. I imagine soon the inflatable pumpkins and glowing ghosts will be replaced with turkeys and pilgrims. Then on to holiday lights, reindeer on rooftops, and varied depictions of Santa and his presents for all of the good little girls and boys. These uplifting scenes gladden my heart and bring a smile to my face. Returning home I realize how much I needed that time, and how much I appreciate the rewards.
As it happens, after a few months of enthusiasm and hopefulness, a veil of distress dampens my mood. From the destruction and devastation of hurricanes to the wars abroad, collectively are distressing. Day after day news of current events disrupt my usual pleasant attitude. We were vacationing in Florida when Hurricane Helene forced mandatory evacuation, sending us home sooner than scheduled. While that was not lifealtering for us, that hurricane and the one subsequent, changed many lives of residents and business owners in brutal ways. To lose your home and livelihood in one fell swoop is certainly disastrous. Add the loss of life, and it’s more than
anyone should have to bear.
Even though these events did not happen to me, my empathy runs deep. Sharing thoughts in an email exchange with my friend, Tamra, she replies, “I’m so grateful for my garden – each visit is a therapy session.” It is indeed.
Oh yes, I know many of you will advise, “change the channel, better yet, disconnect completely.”
For me, the residual effect remains, and I’m left with great sorrow felt for my fellow human beings.
Can you relate? Difficult circumstances get you down? Does being in the garden, help soothe your state of mind?
That’s what being in the greenhouse does for Mr. Gardener. It invites a sense of calm. It’s an opportunity to not think. It is where you can just be.
I too seek calm and quiet. When going to the garden is not an option, I will turn off my office lights, and work by natural lighting. Until my co-worker enters wondering, “Why is it so dark in here?” (That’ll put a smile on my face.) If time is short, I’ll go to the front porch where leaves collect. I can spend a considerable amount of time plucking every leaf and pine needle from in-between the stems of mums. Performing that tiny little detail is transformative. I’m able to return to my desk refreshed and ready to tackle whatever is next.
A simple action like collecting kale and Swiss chard from the greenhouse for a meal is enough to bring gratitude into focus. The kind of gratitude you feel with dirty fingernails and muddy knees after a day in the garden. The place where healing happens.
In this month of thanksgiving, what are you grateful for? Make a list and make it known. Invite those close to you to do the same.
I am grateful to you dear reader, for sharing time with me, and supporting this magazine. It means more than you know.
I’ll see you in the garden!
Question: As I wrap up the gardening season I’m wondering if there is anything I can do to my tools to help keep them in good shape. Any tips before I put these away?
Anthony’s Answer: Fall is the perfect time to be looking over your garden tools and prolonging their usefulness. With a few simple treatments, you can significantly slow their deterioration while protecting them through the winter.
Using a steel or horsehair brush, first be sure to remove any clumped-on soil that may have attached to either the handles or the heads of the tools. Remember during this step to not only loosen obvious soil, but also the miniscule particles that may have filled in pores along the implement. If working with wooden tools, you will then want to lightly sand any of the wooden parts, as the elemental exposure these pieces have endured throughout the season has likely lead to some splintering.
Cleaned and sanded, you can then apply a light application of wood preservative, boiled linseed oil, or polyurethane to the wood to protect it. Remember during this process to remove any excess application, as too much oil will attract sticking dirt. With any metal tool components, these too can now be scrubbed and cleaned of rust, then to be coated with a light layer of oil for protection.
Remember, while this process may outwardly seem somewhat frivolous in the grand scheme of garden tasks, good garden tools are expensive and can be hard to come by. If certain pieces fit your maintenance needs, ergonomic needs, and ease-of-use needs, a little protection can go a long way in preventing garden headaches down the line.
Markis’ Answer: Great answer Anthony! I would also add that now is a great time to be sharpening tools as well. After you clean
Ask the Experts
your loppers, hand pruners, and shovels, give your blades a nice sharp bevel. Sharpening can be accomplished by using a sharpening stone, mill file, or smooth file. It might be necessary that your tools might need to be disassembled before you start. Safety is important so don’t forget gloves and eye protection. Using a vise to hold your tool is a safe way to keep your tool steady. Holding the sharpening tool at a 22.5° angle and apply pressure going forward only. As you create a shiny bevel on your blade, burs on the opposite side can form. It is important to hold the sharpening tool of your choice parallel to the blade to remove these and finish the sharpening process.
One blade that I know goes overlooked, mostly because you don’t see it all the time, is the mower blades on your lawn mower. The sharpness on these blades is essential for keeping your lawn looking the best on the block. Don’t just
stop at the blades either. Servicing your machine by checking and often changing the oil is a garden task that often gets kicked down the road to another time. Now is the time to get it done.
HARVEST HORSERADISH
Question: I tried my hand at growing horseradish this year and am just about ready to harvest it. What should I be keeping in mind?
Anthony’s Answer: Since horseradish experiences its most significant growth in mid fall, it is best to wait until right before the ground freezes to harvest it. Doing so, you will be giving the plant as much time as it can possibly have to further develop its deep taproots which will ultimately be the crops harvested, while also allowing its flavor to deepen with the cool weather.
Similar to harvesting sweet potatoes, work from the outside of the plant bed inward as you gradually
Did you know that horseradish can be a perennial veggie crop?
loosen the soil, slowly exposing the roots. At this point, you can harvest the roots by hand, cushioning them during harvest to minimize the risk of breaking.
Out of the ground, then work with the plants to have a usable crop. Remove the lateral roots as well as all but one inch of leafy surface growth. From this point, the crop can be cleaned, dried, and stored, utilized, or pieced into 6” to 8” sections to be replanted.
Horseradish is also one of the few commonly grown perennial vegetable crops if you choose to grow it as a perennial. Doing so, a thick straw layer of at least 4” should be applied to the plant for winter insulation.
LEARNING ABOUT WEEDS
Question: I thought the frost was supposed to kill the weeds, but I still have green weeds growing in my flower beds. Why is that?
Markis’ Answer: There are 4 types of herbaceous weeds.
• Perennial weeds that come back every year in the same spot. These can include Johnson grass, sweet clover, and everyone’s favorite, dandelions.
• Biannual weeds that take two years to complete their life cycle. Examples include thistles, mullein and hemlock.
• Summer annuals that geminate in the spring and flower in the
ANTHONY REARDON | Horticulture Agents | MARKIS HILL
Anthony and Markis are the horticulture agents for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension, each specializing in edible crops and ornamentals, respectively. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.
A good maintenance program will extend the life of your tools.
TIPS ON TOOL CARE
summer and fall. The most recognizable weeds include crabgrass, foxtail grass, and carpet weed.
• Winter annuals that germinate in the late fall and flower in the spring. In this category we have henbit, dead nettle, and prickly lettuce.
The unwanted greenery that you are seeing in your landscape during the cold months is most likely a winter annual or biennial weeds. These weeds can be a major headache because they have so many seeds that can end up in the landscape. Henbit has the potential to produce anywhere from 200 to 2,000 seeds. Which is nothing compared to purple deadnettle where seed numbers can be between 600 to 27,000! Even though some winter annuals can be an early nectar source for emerging bees, pulling them before they flower will significantly cut back how much will come back the next year.
TREE LEAF ANOMOLY
Question: All my trees and shrubs have dropped their leaves except one. Is this normal?
Markis’ Answer: Some deciduous trees do indeed hold on to their leaves during the wintertime. This phenomenon is called “marcescence.” Marcescence can be exhibited by a handful of tree species we have around the Kansas City Metro area. Young oak trees are what we see this anomaly on the most. There is no definite answer as to why trees have evolved to do this but leaves that stay on the stems during the winter do degrade
Service your lawnmower now so you’ll be ready to mow in spring.
faster in the springtime as opposed to the leaf litter in the fall. Having leaves on the stems of young trees also has the potential to deter herbivores that like to eat stems in the wintertime.
SERVICE YOUR LAWNMOWER
Question: After leaf clean up, I have found that there is less and less task for me to tend to around the garden. I know there are tasks that need to be done but what are they?
Markis’ Answer: Late fall, before the snow, is a great time to get the less appealing tasks completed. These duties will make your future self extremely happy. Servicing your mower before you put it away for the season is one such undertaking that will help the performance of your machine when the grass starts growing again from the spring rains. Check that oil and sharpen those blades to continue to have the best lawn on your block.
Celebrate the Holiday Season
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PLANTS ON YOUR PLATE
Butternut Squash
While the onset of fall typically makes people think of pumpkins, the entire family of winter squash comes to my mind during the change in seasons. This family of vegetables are uniquely beautiful with ribbed or bumpy skins, irregular shapes, and vibrant colors ranging from yellow to orange to dark green or even multi-toned. In comparison to their summertime cousins, winter squash have a denser texture and richer flavor with firm flesh that holds up well in hearty soups, stews, casseroles, breads, and desserts.
Squash are members of the Cucurbitaceae family, commonly known as gourds, which makes them related to cucumbers, muskmelons and watermelons. Squash is one of the oldest known food crops, dating back at least 8,000 years. Archaeological remains have been found in ancient cliff dwellings in the southwestern United States and Mexico. Winter squash is known for its long keeping time, even several months, especially when kept in cool, dark environments.
One of the most popular winter squash varieties is the uniquely shaped butternut squash. The creamy off-white to tan outer skin
contrasts sharply with the internal bright orange flesh, a clue to the high vitamin A content. Butternut squash is also rich in vitamin C, vitamin B6, protein, fiber, magnesium and potassium. While similar in flavor and texture as sweet potatoes, butternut squash has about half the amount of carbohydrate, so it is a very popular choice among people managing health conditions like diabetes. As a rich source of potassium, it is also a smart choice for someone managing high blood pressure.
When selecting butternut squash, look for a firm, blemish free skin that feels heavy for its size, while also avoiding vegetables with wrinkled or soft spots. The rind should be very hard and difficult to pierce with your fingernail. The hard rind can make preparation intimidating for those not familiar with this vegetable.
As with any vegetable, begin by washing under warm water, using a brush to remove any dirt and debris. The squash can be simply cut in half lengthwise, the seeds scooped out and oven roasted, similar to spaghetti squash, with the pulp scooped after roasting. For cubed squash, cut off the stem and blossom ends, and cut the squash in half in the middle, above where
DENISE SULLIVAN Nutrition Ninja
it rounds out. The two sections can now be easily peeled with a vegetable peeler, or if the intent is to stuff the rounded end as part of the preparation, it can be left unpeeled. Each section can then be cut in half lengthwise, resulting in the solid ‘neck’ portion and the ‘bowl’ portion where the seeds are scooped out.. The seeds can be cleaned and roasted like pumpkin seeds. At this point, the flesh can be cubed and
either roasted, boiled or even eaten raw. I personally prefer roasting, as it brings out a richer, sweeter flavor that is suitable as a side dish on its own, pureed for baked goods like muffins, or in a main dish. The recipe below is my attempt at replicating the flavors in a butternut ravioli dish I recently had at a restaurant. While it is a different combination than most pasta dishes, I hope you will try it!
Creamy Butternut Pasta
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS
¼ c. salted butter
½ c. walnuts, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 Tbsp. chopped sage, plus more for garnish
6 c. cubed butternut squash (about 30 oz. cubed)
½ tsp. ground black pepper, plus more to taste
2 c. chicken broth
¼ c. heavy cream
1 lb. penne pasta
½ c. grated parmesan cheese
½ c. pepita seeds
½ c. chopped dried cranberries
DIRECTIONS
• Place the butter in a medium pot (with a lid) over medium heat. Let melt, then add the walnuts, cook until walnuts are lightly toasted and the butter is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the walnuts to a paper towel lined plate.
• Add the garlic and sage to the pot and cook briefly until golden and aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the squash, broth, and pepper. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the squash is fork tender.
• Transfer the squash mixture and walnuts to a blender. Cover, then remove the top insert from the lid and cover with a kitchen towel (to let steam escape). Puree in short bursts until very smooth, about 1 minute.
• Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and reduce to medium heat (just simmering). Cook 1 minute less than the package directions. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water then drain the pasta in a colander.
• Return the large pot to medium heat. Add the butternut squash sauce, heavy cream, cooked pasta and 1/4 cup of the pasta water and parmesan cheese. Stir gently with a rubber spatula, until the sauce has thickened slightly and is coating the pasta, about 2 minutes. (Add more pasta water to reach desired consistency). Season with salt and pepper to taste.
• Serve immediately topped with pepita seeds and dried cranberries.
Denise Sullivan is a retired Nutrition and Health Education Specialist, with 38 years of experience in the Missouri, Kansas, and Texas Cooperative Extension Systems.
Plantaland Pop-Up Tropical Holiday Mall
November 30, 9am to 5pm & December 1, 11am to 4pm
Seasonal shopping, fresh cut Christmas trees, wreaths and roping, garden goods and gifts plus special activities and events and an array of unique items by artists and market growers. Get a photo with Planta, make a terrarium or garland, build a bough container and more! Special holiday drinks and bottled wine from White Tail Run. Snacks and non-alcoholic beverages available in the Botanical Coffee Shop. Support makers and small business and shop local for the holidays!
Fertilize indoor plants with Sure Bloom® to keep them green & healthy all winter long. Apply The Mushroom Stuff ® - strengthen the root systems of perennials & evergreens. You can apply Earth Right products as long as the ground has not frozen.
Come enjoy fresh air & autumn at Arnold Pansies & More for late fall Garlic, Spring Mulches, Soil Amendments, Bird Feeding, Potting Mixes, Containers, Seasonal Decor & More! - Low 6.5% sales tax at our rural location.
Spring-Flowering Bulbs Class: Nov. 2 at 10 am
Join us to learn about planting daffodils, etc. which flower in the spring, and how to incorporate them into your landscape. Class fee: $5 holds your spot, please RSVP for planning. Thanks! Check our Facebook page for more November classes TBD
The ground has settled from spring and summer rains and shouldn’t be impacted by the freezing/warming of the winter months.
• You can avoid the spring pond building rush. Your newly build pond will overwinter and start fresh and new in the spring.
Plant hardy aquatic plants and get a head start in the
Enjoy spectacular ice sculptures and your own winter wonderland during the winter months.
Add night lighting to enjoy the sights of your water feature inside during the longer cold evening hours.
change in winter. CLOSED Thurs. Nov. 28 for Thanksgiving. ~ Follow us on Facebook for all the Latest News and Specials ~ Happy Thanksgiving - We’re Thankful for You!
Rose Report Time to Winterize
The best time to winterize roses is after the first hard freeze this month or next. Beginning the process earlier in the fall can stimulate unwanted growth and give the canes insufficient time to callus over (form hard tissue) for the winter season.
When dormancy is established, start by cutting your 4 to 6 ft tall canes down to 2 to 3 feet so that the rose bushes will not be uprooted or damaged by strong winter winds and ice. Also, look for smaller or weaker canes that are rubbing against stronger ones and cut these out with pruners. Rubbing canes can cause damaging cuts that may let in disease next spring. Heavy pruning of all your roses should be left for the following spring. Many shrub roses may be left without winter care, unless there are long, unwieldy canes that need to be trimmed.
Pull off any diseased leaves on the bushes and rake out leaves in your rose beds. At this time, I spray a contact fungicide for roses on canes and on the soil because black spot fungus can over-winter in the soil.
Now place 8 to 12 inches of compost, mulch or leaves to cover your grafted roses. Mounding keeps
the rose uniformly cold, which reduces the chance of damage caused by cycles of freezing and thawing. Own root roses are not as susceptible to winter damage, but you may still cover them as well.
Don’t forget to water once in November on a warmer day (above
wrapped burlap around the climbers and the trellises, securing them with twine (see photo below). I then stuffed hay inside the burlap to protect the climbers from dry winds, ice and temperature fluctuations. I mounded the base of the climbers with compost, just as I
40 degrees) if there has not been any rain or snow.
A few years ago, I was concerned about two of my climbing roses losing their hard-earned growth over the winter. After a hard frost, I cut off long ends, secured the climbers to the trellises, then
did with all my roses. I learned this burlap technique from fellow Consulting Rosarian and friend Judy Penner. You can purchase a roll of burlap and a bale of hay from local feed stores. You may follow Judy’s instructional rose videos by searching Judy Penner on YouTube.
Even though the roses will be put to bed at The Laura Conyers Smith Rose Garden this month and into December, bundle up and take a stroll. Enjoy the winter beauty of the Rose Garden and scan the QR codes on the rose signs to view photos of your favorite roses at kcrsroselibary.com. There are some lovely rose hips on climber ‘American Pillar’ scattered throughout the Rose Garden. Ask-a-Rosarian hotline is always available for your questions this winter at RoseHelp@kcrosesociety.org. Please follow us at Kanas City Rose Society on FaceBook or @kansascityrosesociety on Instagram!
The Last Rose of Summer
Tis the last rose of Summer, Left blooming alone; All her lovely companions Are faded and gone; No flower of her kindred, No rose-bud is nigh, To reflect back her blushes Or give sigh for sigh!
Thomas Moore (1779-1852)
Lauren English is the Kansas City Rose Society Garden Chair at the Laura Conyers Smith Municipal Rose Garden in Loose Park and an American Rose Society Consulting Rosarian. She can be reached at laurenenglish.kcrs@gmail.com.
Pets & Plants Castor Bean
The castor oil plant, Ricinus communis, is a species of flowering plant in the spurge family that is native to the Mediterranean basin and Africa, and has been introduced around the world as an ornamental perennial shrub that can reach the size of a small tree — cultivars of the plant are commonly found in Midwestern landscapes. Common names include castor bean, castor oil plant, African coffee tree, Mexico weed, mole bean, wonder tree and Palma Christa (palm of Christ). The seed of the castor oil plant is the castor bean, which, despite its name, is not a true bean. The seeds are grown commercially for castor oil and ornamental purposes (jewelry).
they ingest or chew the seeds — severity of clinical signs increases if the seed is chewed, broken or damaged, which releases more of the toxic compound. Ornamental sources of seeds such as jewelry are also common causes of poisoning in pet animals.
The Shrub Removal Guy
Ricin is a highly poisonous cellular toxin (toxalbumin) found in all parts of the castor oil plant with highest levels in the seeds (castor beans). Ricin is poisonous if inhaled, injected or ingested, and causes cell death by inhibiting protein synthesis. Poisoning most often occurs in dogs or cats when
Because ricin is a general toxin affecting many different cells in the body, multiple organ systems can be affected and symptoms are difficult to treat since there is not a specific antidote. Vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, bloody feces, loss of appetite and lethargy are usually observed if the seeds are eaten. Decontamination, gastrointestinal protectants and supportive care are the usual treatment measures. More serious problems arise if ricin is absorbed and spreads to other organs. Ricin has received recent attention in the news because of efforts by disgruntled people to poison public officials via the mail with powder from ground castor beans or more concentrated sources. Bottom line — keep castor beans out of reach of pets and children.
PHIL ROUDEBUSH
Extension Master Gardener
Phil is a retired veterinarian and specialist in small animal internal medicine. He was an Extension Master Gardener in Shawnee County, Kansas before moving to North Carolina, where he is an EMG in Buncombe County. Reach him at philroudebush@gmail.com.
Making a list of ‘Gotta Haves’ Plans for a Longer Lasting Season
The end of the season had me in a slump. It seemed like our perennial garden faded out way too early this year. Daylilies were not that big of a show. Coneflowers kind of fizzled. Stokes’ Asters were hardly noticeable … I guess they bloomed. Black-eyed Susans dwindled after a couple of weeks. Now it’s mid October (when I wrote this) and there is no color left in the garden!
What’s frustrating is that I see mounds of bold color in plenty of other places. Driving around town, landscapes and front yard pots are filled with plants that make me say, “I’m planting some of those next year.” The good news is that they will be easy to find in my local garden center and they’ll be easy to grow … I like easy. I’ve made a list of just a few that caught my eye still blooming well into early fall.
Lantana
On a recent walk I noticed one of my neighbors watering a colorful container. I shouted, “Happy fall to ya! Are the bright yellow flowers Lantana?” She said, “Yes and the butterflies love it.” Thinking to myself, “I’ve got the perfect spot on the edge of the perennial bed for a few of those.” Lantana is a trouble-free plant and a good choice for hot dry gardens. It works well in pots, hanging baskets and window boxes. And so many bright colors to choose from. Loved by both butterflies and hummingbirds. Mounding and trailing varieties are available. They are considered an annual in our area.
Begonia
Most years I pot up a couple of dragonwing begonias in hanging baskets straight into large contain-
ers for the backyard patio. This year I didn’t and I really missed them. Begonia is a tough longblooming annual that performs well in the landscape and containers, especially with a bit of shade. There are many types of begonias and are available in colors from white, red,
cell packs of flowers unexciting. Because I was so impressed with the planting I saw, I’m willing to do the work.
Zinnia
One of my favorite annuals to grow is zinnia. In my garden they
and pink to the much less common yellow, purple, orange, and more. All are easy to grow.
Impatiens
For shady parts of the garden you can’t go wrong with Impatiens. Plant in masses and your garden will be bursting with color. This annual works well in containers, as border plants and ground cover. They can tolerate a fair amount of sun if you keep the soil moist. I have to admit, I find planting little
Mr. Gardener
have bloomed until a hard frost. The garden centers have many options to choose from. I really like the Profusion® series. With excitement I grow a tray from seed each year, and transfer to containers when ready for the outdoors. They fill up a pot and bloom constantly. Perfect for cut flowers on Mrs. Gardener’s desk. This year I tried a different variety of seeds to grow. They started out slow. I scratched my head and said hmm... The next thing I knew they were full of aphids. By
the time I decided on what organic spray to use to fix the problem the bugs had sucked the life right out of the plants. As I dumped each one into the recycle bag I said, “Sorry guys.” I missed my Zinnias in the garden this year. I’m determined to get it right next year.
Caladium
It has been years since I’ve planted a caladium in the garden. I never like the idea of planting a plant and then having to dig it back up when it gets cold. (Blame it on my Florida roots.) Digging and storing the tubers for next year sounds like, well, too much work. I will however treat them like an annual and add a few to a container with other plants for a splash of color. Caladium planted in the landscape at Kauffman Gardens added a tropical look and inspired me to give them another shot.
Anemone
When I saw these plants at Kauffman Gardens in full bloom in October I said, “alright… you’re definitely going in the garden.” Anemone (pronounced uh-NEMoh-nee) is a long-lived perennial with colors of white, pink to deep rose and green/yellow centers. The graceful tall branching flower stalks make a great addition to cut flower arrangements. Deer resistant, bee friendly and attracts butterflies. Work into containers, good for borders and plant in masses. Prefers full sun to part shade. Anemone is on top of my list to plant next year. Neighborhoods, garden centers and botanical gardens are wonderful sources of inspiration. See something you like? Make a list. Jot it on your calendar. It’s never to early to plan for next year’s garden.
Mike Cavanaugh is an avid plant lover and a true native Floridian. He owned a small tree nursery in central Florida for many years supplying trees to local landscapers. Inspired by the desire for a new adventure, he moved his wife, four kids and the family dog to the Midwest 28 years ago. When family and friends asked why, he replied “I’m going to start a gardening magazine.” And the adventure continues.
MIKE CAVANAUGH
Begonia
Zinnia
Lantana
Lantana
ABOVE: Anemone; BELOW: Impatiens
ABOVE: Begonia; BELOW: Caladium
Photos by Mike Cavanaugh.
Putting the Garden to Bed
We have had yo-yo temperatures this fall; 90 degrees one day, then into the 60s. It has been incredibly dry as well. So how do you know when things are done? How do you know what to cut back and what to leave? Everyone has a different opinion, to rake or not rake. What do you do that’s aesthetically pleasing but also best for your garden’s overall health? Let’s work through these conundrums.
How do you decide when it’s time to be done with summer annuals? This one is variable, but the simple answer is, when it’s not aesthetically pleasing, doesn’t suit your needs, or when it stops performing. Hopefully your annuals have made it all the way to fall, but sometimes that doesn’t happen. At the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens, we tore out Profusion Zinnias that were looking okay in order to plant mums. Sometimes you need to make room, so something has to go. Benary Zinnias were removed because they finally looked awful with powdery mildew. Trust me, it is sad to see them go, but the overall appearance of the garden is better with them gone.
Insect, disease, storm, or mammal damage can be another reason for early cut-back or removal. There is a small moth called the Genista Broom Moth, and the caterpillars feed on Baptisia making them look like skeleton plants. Ours were affected in one of our gardens this summer and it was best to cut down for the appearance of the space. I’ve already mentioned the powdery mildew situation that warranted removal. We have also had cases of Aster Yellows on Echinacea this year.
Unfortunately, when summer annuals reach great heights, the wind and rain can cause destruction. At our front entrance gates to the gardens, we had lovely Bali Orange African Marigolds. The
storms in mid-September pretty much flattened them. We tried staking and deadheading, but they still looked pretty sad. I had planned on leaving them through the fall. But sometimes the best plans have to take a turn, so we pulled them and planted mums in their place. Oh and then there are our friends: the deer! I love how they munch on half a plant, leaving it unbalanced.
figure why not give it a try and see. Verbena is in that same category as the salvia, occasionally it makes a return the next year, so give it a chance if you like the location.
With perennials, I fall on both sides of the cutting back debate. At my home, I leave my perennials until the spring temperatures are consistently in the 50s. At work we unfortunately don’t have that
rest in the fall as a time to prepare for winter temperatures. Make sure you are not pruning spring flowering shrubs.
Raking leaves, if I am being honest, is my least favorite gardening task. Leaves can provide a nice organic mulching option. They can provide warmth and help with soil tilth. I personally enjoy chipping them up with my mower and blow-
Sometimes it’s better to just finish the job for them and hope they forget where it’s at next year.
Cutting back is a heavily debated topic. Let me just say, “You do You.” Do what you feel comfortable with. My philosophy is… remove mushy annuals. Nothing is going to overwinter in that slimy shell of a plant. I also will remove annuals such as coleus, marigolds, and lantana. I like to leave annual ornamental grasses; even though they won’t be back in the spring, they can add texture and winter interest. Salvia is another that I like to leave in some spots. I’ve had annual Salvia ‘Rockin Playin the Blues’ come back for three years on the south side of my house. I
ANNE WILDEBOOR Horticulturist
luxury. We have 40 plus acres of gardens that we are caring for. We simply would not be able to get it all cleaned up if we waited for the temperatures to be in the 50s. So, in January and February we start the process of cutting back and cleaning beds. I know there are some of you reading this and hollering. We are doing our best to maintain our space with the staffing and resources that we have. Do make sure you are considering winter interest. Dried grasses and some perennials look beautiful in the winter. I love Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ in the morning light with frost on them. Be sure you are not pruning shrubs or trees. It can open them up to winter injury. They need to
ing them into my landscape beds. You do not want to have leaves with a thick blanket over your turf. You also don’t want to have them as a thick cover over your perennials and shrubs, a little insulation is good, smothering is not. At the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens, we rake some and leave some in beds until spring. If we do rake later in the winter, we mulch right after to maintain soil temperatures. Nobody likes a blanket pulled off when it’s cold outside!
I know that this can be a time of sadness that the season is over. Or a chance for new plants or a new look next season. Enjoy this time and the cooler temperatures!
Should the Echinacea be cut back now or in early spring? Cutting back perennials is a heavily debated topic.
Anne Wildeboor is long-time Horticulturist at the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens.
Establishing Prairie Grasses and Wildflowers with Seed Seeding in winter breaks seed dormancy
For anyone who sows seeds of green beans, squash, carrots, and other garden vegetables in the spring or summer, the idea of broadcasting seed in the winter can be confounding. But unlike vegetable seeds, which germinate in warm weather, seeds of prairie grasses and wildflowers must go through a cold spell to germinate.
This strategy protects seedlings of perennial grasses and wildflowers. If they were to germinate in summer or early fall, after mature seeds are released from plants and come in contact with soil, the tiny seedlings—too young to have developed robust root systems— would likely die in the first hard frost.
Prairie plantings or gardens provide numerous benefits, including wildlife and pollinator habitat, less lawn to maintain, and, of course, beauty. Prairie plantings or gardens can not match the native biodiversity of unplowed, old-growth prairie, but plantings or gardens do provide vital habitat for butterflies, native bees, songbirds, and many other wildlife species.
The following information provides an overview of establishing a prairie planting or garden from seed. For more in-depth information, consult this Grow Native! program resource: https://grownative. org/learn/natives-for-gardening/ native-gardening-overview/.
Site Preparation
For best results, the soil of your garden or planting site should be completely free of grass and weeds before planting seed. The best way to do this is by killing existing vegetation either by covering the area for at least two months with plastic or cardboard, or with a non-selec-
tive herbicide such as glyphosate. At least two herbicide applications are usually required (one in spring and one in late summer) to eliminate existing vegetation. If weeds germinate after the “last” application, spray again in late October or early November on a warm, sunny day.
If a layer of thatch (dead vegetation) covers most of the soil, burn
or mow and rake the area so the seed will come in contact with the soil when you sow it, but do not till. Tilling degrades soil structure and also exposes weed seeds.
Seed Selection and Amount of Seed
Local seed—for example, collected from original prairies within a certain distance from your site—
is usually considered a good practice, but can sometimes be hard to come by, and even the term “local” is debatable given various site locations. Here in the lower Midwest, numerous Grow Native! professional members sell native seed and are a wealth of information on successful seeding.
Another important factor in seed selection is deciding how diverse your mix will be and how much seed is needed. You may want to exclude the following plants, which can dominate plantings or gardens: Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans), switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), ashy sunflower (Helianthus mollis), Canada goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) and tall goldenrod (Solidago altissima). Also, avoid cultivated species (cultivars) of grasses, as some may crowd out other plants.
In general, 30 to 40 seeds per square foot is ideal for prairie gardens or plantings. However, you don’t have to count the seeds! When you shop for seeds, native seed vendors can advise you on how many seed packets or ounces of a seed mix to purchase. If you want many wildflowers, consider a ratio of 70% wildflower seed to 30% grass seed.
Sowing
or Broadcasting Seed
Seed can be sown in several ways, depending on the size of your area. Hand broadcasting works well in areas of one to two acres or less. If you select this method, mix the seed evenly with one bushel of inert material for every 1,000 square feet of planting area. Slightly damp sawdust, vermiculite, potash, ground corn, or other inert material makes it much easier to evenly distribute the seed. Take one-half
JEROD HUEBNER | MO Prairie Advocates | CAROL DAVIT
Jerod Huebner is the Missouri Prairie Foundation (MPF) Director of Prairie Management based in Joplin. Carol Davit is the MPF Executive Director and based in Jefferson City.
This prairie garden was established with a mix of seeds suitable for dry, rocky, poor soil.
Photo by Carol Davit.
This Grow Native! graphic illustrates the importance of mowing prairie plantings early in the establishment phase to reduce annual weed competition.
of the total mix and distribute it evenly over the entire area. Then, take the remaining half and spread it over the same area, walking perpendicular to your first pass. Roll the site with a roller, drive across it with a car or truck, or, if the garden is very small, walk over it to firm the seed into the soil. Do not roll or drive over the site if the soil is wet.
Sow the seeds on the surface evenly in late November through February. Freezing and thawing will help move the seeds into the top of the soil and break seed dormancy. Many of the wildflower seeds will germinate during March and April, but the warm-season grasses won’t germinate until May or June when the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees F. (Wildflower seeds are best sown in the dormant season. Grasses can be sown until the end of May. Seed mixes usually contain both wildflower and grass species and therefore should be sown from November through February.)
grass seedlings following in May and June. And along with the seedlings—plenty of annual weeds! Unlike perennial prairie plants, which generally invest in root growth before shoot growth, annual weeds “live fast and die young”—they flower and set seed in one year, and usually tower over smaller prairie seedlings.
25 Years of Holiday Magic: Luminary Walk at the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens
For 25 years, the Luminary Walk has illuminated the holiday season, growing from a humble one-night event in 2000 to a beloved tradition spanning 25 magical evenings. Attracting visitors both near and far, this celebration is more than just a display of festive lights— it’s a cherished community gathering where memories are made among families, couples, and friends. Over the years, nearly 300,000 guests have taken part in the event, creating moments that span generations.
However, the Luminary Walk is not just a seasonal celebration. It holds a special place as one of the most significant fundraising initiatives of the Friends of the Arboretum (FOTA), a division of The Arts & Recreation Foundation of Overland Park. FOTA is dedicated to the preservation, enhancement, and promotion of the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens. The funds raised through this event help support capital improvements, major projects, and various educational and volunteer programs at the Arboretum.
Thanks to the generosity of private donors, membership dues, and community events like this, the Arboretum continues to thrive. In the past decade alone, the Luminary Walk has raised over $2.2 million for the park’s growth and preservation, making it the most attended and impactful fundraiser of the year for FOTA. Sponsors like Westlake Ace Hardware, FNBO, Sarin Energy Solutions, and We Light KC also provide vital support, ensuring the event continues to enchant visitors while supporting the Arboretum’s mission.
Note: Some seeds also need to be scarified (breaking down the seed coat to allow water to penetrate into the seed) in order to germinate. In the natural world, seeds are scarified a number of ways, including passing through the body of an animal. The process can be mimicked by sanding or nicking the seed coat.
Early Establishment Stewardship
By April, seedlings of wildflowers should be noticeable, with
Seedling growth and vigor can be promoted by removing weed biomass. This reduces competition for sunlight, moisture, and soil nutrients. When a planting is about knee high, mow the area with a mower blade set at 6 inches. (Or, if your garden is very small, you can cut down weeds with loppers or clippers.) Doing so will cut taller annual weeds. Repeat mowing as needed throughout the growing season. Also, scout for any longerlived invasive plants like Johnson grass and sericea lespedeza. Spot spray with appropriate herbicide, or hand pull/cut as needed. After the second year of establishment, prairie plants should be taller and annual weeds should diminish. The planting can be mowed again as needed. In the third fall/winter, provided there is enough standing vegetation to act as fuel, burning the planting or garden, if permitted in your area, will further reduce weeds and benefit the prairie plants.
For more information, watch the recorded Missouri Prairie Foundation webinar on establishing prairie plantings at MPF’s YouTube channel.
“In this 25th-anniversary celebration, we’ve introduced new and dazzling light installations to add even more wonder to the experience,” said Brit Waye, Community Engagement Manager. “We welcome everyone to come and join us in marking this special milestone.”
This year’s event offers three distinct experiences, ensuring there’s something for everyone:
Traditional Luminary Walk: Dive into family fun as you explore the glowing Gnome and Fairy Villages, stroll through candlelit paths in the Marder Garden, and enjoy the vibrant colors of the Children’s Garden. With live music, photos with Santa, warm cider, and festive treats from Jack Stack Barbecue and Jack’s Kettle Corn, this is the perfect holiday experience for all ages. The Arboretum’s trees, bridges, and buildings will shimmer with thousands of lights to guide you along the way.
Adults-Only Candlelight Stroll: For those seeking a peaceful, child-free holiday evening, the Candlelight Stroll offers a serene atmosphere. Wander the candlelit pathways, take in the enchanting gnome houses, and savor the beauty of the lights. With wine and warm adult beverages available for purchase, this experience invites you to relax and soak in the holiday spirit at your own pace.
Electric Glow: Designed for those seeking a low-sensory experience, the Electric Glow offers a quiet, crowd-free evening where the electric lights take center stage. With limited attendance, it’s a calm and peaceful way to take in the beauty of the illuminated gardens and intricate gnome and fairy houses. Cafe Celeste at LongHouse will be open, offering warm drinks, snacks, and adult beverages.
Dates & Tickets
The Luminary Walk runs on select evenings from November 25 through December 30. Whether you’re in search of a family outing, a romantic evening, or a quiet escape into a winter wonderland, this event offers something for everyone. Don’t miss out on celebrating 25 years of magic while supporting the growth of the Overland Park Arboretum. Get your tickets now at opabg.org.
Upcoming Garden Events
The Garden Club of Shawnee Thurs, Nov 7, 7p; at Shawnee Town 1929 Town Hall, 11600 Johnson Dr, Shawnee, KS. This will be everyone’s favorite meeting: it’s our soup, bread, and dessert night followed by bingo led by member Nancy Hammond. As always, visitors are welcome! Please visit our website gardenclubofshawnee.org and our Facebook page for more information.
Kansas City Cactus and Succulent Society Sun, Nov 17, 1:30p; at Trailside Center, 9901 Holmes Rd, Kansas City, MO. We will discuss ways to prepare and move our plants indoors for the winter. The use of proper lighting systems to maintain plants while indoors will be described as well as proper directional window placement based upon the types of cacti and succulents we own. Everyone is invited to attend. Refreshments will be served.
Kansas City Garden Club Mon, Nov 4, 10a; at Ward Parkway Presbyterian Church, 7406 Ward Pkwy, Kansas City, MO 64114. Park in north parking lot, enter Ward Pkwy front door. Guests are welcomed. Program: “Saguaro Cacti, Fascinating Giants of the Desert” by Johnson County Master Gardener and KC Garden Club member, Janet Simonsen. Almost everyone has seen a Saguaro cactus but how much do you actually know about them? Janet will share what she learned while visiting Saguaro National Park and two botanical gardens in the Tuscan area – how and where they grow, traditional uses for them and what their future looks like. Questions? Call 913-636-4956.
Leawood Garden Club Tues, Nov 19, 10:30a; at Cure of Ars Catholic Church, 9401 Mission Rd, Leawood, KS 66206. Program: “Champion Trees: One may live in your Neighborhood.” Guest Speaker Rick Spurgeon. What is it that determines which tree is the champ? Rick will show what information
is gathered and how it is gathered. A few photos and a few stories can provide the chance to meet some of the champions. You may find out what your own tree can do. Rick was the City Arborist for Olathe for 39 years, enjoying nearly every minute of it. He is setting up a national certification now that you’ll likely begin seeing on landscape trucks soon. Plus, he speaks at conferences and more spots on a variety of tree subjects, as well as helping North America’s largest tree nursery tree grower in a number of ways. He has always loved identifying trees, including off-beat ones that most folks haven’t even heard of. That translated into being involved with champion trees of the metro area, state and national lists. Last he checked about a year ago, he had located 33 of the Kansas champions. Here in Kansas, he found two national champions in the past. He has given champion tree presentations at times to different groups before, like Kansas Arborist Association, Olathe Civic and Garden Club and Olathe City Council meetings. He talks about the trees, their stories and the folks associated with those, some history and how those are determined.
Olathe Garden & Civic Club Tues, Nov 19, 1-2:30p; at Grace United Methodist Church, 11485 S Ridgeview Rd, Olathe KS 66061. Program: Seed Saver Exchange & Evergreen Wreath Making. **Free & Open to the Public.** Bring your own crafting supplies or just come to observe! We’re hosting a saved seed exchange, and a club member will lead an evergreen wreath crafting lesson! To participate in the crafting session, please bring your own evergreen cuttings, wreath frame (wire or grapevine work well), tools (wire cutters or scissors and hand pruner), and fine floral paddle wire (22 gauge recommended). Members and guests are also encouraged to bring any saved seed they would like to exchange.
Orchid Society of Greater Kansas City Sun, Nov 10, 1:30-4:30p; at Merriam Community Center, 6040 Slater
St, Merriam, KS 66202. Dennis Steinbeck, from the Flask & Flora Company, will speak on Orchids of Colombia. Open to the public. More information at osgkc.org and find us on Facebook.
MoKan Daylily Society
Sat, Dec 7, 10:30a; at Asbury United Methodist Church, 5400 W 75th St, Prairie Village, KS 66208. Entrance is in the back of the church.
Raytown Garden Club
Tues, Nov 5, 10a; at Connection Point Church, 10500 E 350 Hwy, Raytown, MO 64138. Program will be “Planting in 2024: What Worked? What Didn’t Work?”, a Roundtable discussion by RGC members. Guests are always welcome. For more information please check out our Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/RaytownGardenClub.
TOURS | SHOWS | FESTIVALS
72nd Annual African Violet Show and Sale
Sat, Nov 9, 9a-3p; at Loose Park Garden Center, 51st St and Wornall Rd, Kansas City, MO. Presented by the African Violet Club of Greater Kansas City.
Plantaland Pop-Up Tropical Holiday Mall
Sat, Nov 30, 9a-5p and Sun, Dec 1, 11a-4p; at Vinland Valley Nursery, 1606 N 600 Rd, Baldwin City, KS 66006. Seasonal shopping, fresh cut Christmas trees, wreaths and roping, garden goods and gifts plus special activities and events and an array of unique items by artists and market growers. Get a photo with Planta, make a terrarium or garland, build a bough container and more! Special holiday drinks and bottled wine from White Tail Run. Snacks and non-alcoholic beverages available in the Botanical Coffee Shop. Support makers and small business and shop local for the holidays!
CLASSES | AND MORE
Bulb Planting and Forcing Sat, Nov 2, 1p; at Vinland Valley Nursery, 1606 N 600 Rd, Baldwin
City, KS 66006. At this workshop, you will learn all about fall planted bulbs. We will take a trip out to one of the VVN flower beds for a lesson in how to plant bulbs in the ground, then return to the workshop to learn how to force bulbs in pots. You will leave with the knowledge you need to plant bulbs confidently plus your own potted tulip or narcissus bulb prepared for forcing. $40 per person. Additional VVN-designed and packaged bulb collections and individual bulbs will be available, priced as marked. 785.594.2966; vinlandvalleynursery.com
Spring-Flowering Bulbs Class Sat, Nov 2, 10a; at Arnold’s Prairie Greenhouse & More, 1430 Hwy 58, LeRoy, KS 66857. Join us to learn about planting “fall bulbs” –tulips, daffodils, etc., that flower in the spring, and how to incorporate them into your landscape. Class fee: $5. holds your spot, please RSVP for planning. Thanks! Check our Facebook page for more November classes TBD. info@arnoldsgreenhouse.com. 620-964-2423
Celebrate Fall in the Garden Sat, Nov 2, 10a-1p; at George Owens Nature Park, 1601 Speck Rd, Independence, MO 64057. Come celebrate all the beauty of fall with Master Gardeners of Greater Kansas City and a Naturalist from George Owens. Join us for a seed saving clinic at 10:30a, then stay to watch demonstrations, learn about the importance of soil testing and find out what to do with all those fallen leaves. For more information or questions please contact mggkc. market.pub@gmail.com. Familyfriendly, with activities for all ages. Children under 16 must be accompanied by an adult.
Hike Fox Hollow with a Naturalist Sat, Nov 2, 10:30a-noon; at Habitats Lakeside Nature Center in Swope Park, 4701 E Gregory Blvd, Kansas City, MO. All scheduled hikes are open to the public. There is no fee. Hikes will be cancelled in severe weather – call the center (816-513-8960) for confirmation. Please dress appropriately for the
weather of the day (i.e. raingear, layers of clothing for cold weather, sunscreen and hats for warm weather, insect repellent, closedtoed shoes or boots). The hike begins at 10:30a. Please gather outside the main doors of Lakeside Nature Center. There the naturalist will meet hikers, outline the plans for the day and then lead the group on the trail. The guided walk/hike, which focuses on habitats around the Center, typically occurs on the upper Fox Hollow trail which is primarily covered with rock and accessible for most participants. However, depending on the Naturalist and topic of the hike, another part of the Fox Hollow Trail might also be incorporated, which may be a little more challenging for some hikers. If you have any questions, please contact the Nature Center at: 816-513-8960.
Kansas Water Resource Thurs, Nov 7, 11:30a; at Sunflower Room, Wyandotte County Extension Office, 1208 N 79th St, Kansas City, KS. Kansas Water Resource presentation, presented by Cheri Miller, Wyandotte County Conservation Service. Pre-registration is not needed. A $10 fee (cash or check) will be payable at the door.
Mariposasa Monarcas! A Winter Visit with Monarch Butterflies Sat, Nov 9, 5p; at Matt Ross Community Center, 8101 Marty St, Overland Park, KS 66204. Please join members of the Idalia Society for this fascinating presentation! Mike Rafferty, Kansas Master Naturalist, will describe his February 2023 trip with Natural Habitat Explorers to the Reserva de los Biosfera Mariposa Monarca in the high mountains west of Mexico City, the wintering area for the entire eastern population of North American Monarchs. He’ll provide some background on the butterflies, the habitat, and share some pretty amazing videos. Doors open at 5p for refreshments and a FREE seed/plant exchange. (Get a head start on your 2025 garden and find a home for your “extras”. Natives and nonnatives equally welcome!) Meeting begins at 5:45 PM with a brief session of business and announcements, with the program immediately following. Everyone is welcome, bring a friend! Please call/text (816)283-6258 with any questions.
Growing Trees as Mother Nature Intended
Tues, Nov 12, 7p; at Merriam Community Center, 6040 Slater St, Merriam, KS 66202. Matt Evans, master arborist with Ryan Lawn and Tree plans to talk about “Growing Trees as Mother Nature Intended” for a Gardeners Connect November Free Speaker Series Program. Open to the public and free for everyone. No reservations are required.
Earth Keepers
Sat, Nov 16, 10a-2p; at Lakeside Nature Center, 4701 E Gregory Blvd, Kansas City, MO 64132. Lakeside Nature Center is presenting a wildlife event to learn how to be an Earth Keeper and support wildlife and habitats. Participate in a scheduled guided hike, come indoors to learn about initiatives to support wildlife, and meet a broadwing hawk. The Master Gardeners of Greater Kansas City Children’s Programs will be presenting “Composting Basics.” Children will learn the different phases of composting, and how nonliving and living organisms work together to make it happen.
Gardening as We Age
Thurs, Dec 5, 11:30a; at Sunflower Room, Wyandotte County Extension Office, 1208 N 79th St, Kansas City, KS. Gardening as We Age, Presented by Kevin Nelson, Douglas County Extension Master Gardener. This presentation will provide practical information to help you stay engaged and productive in your garden for as long as you choose. You’ll see examples of how to alter your beds, your plant choices and your tools so you can still do the most with the space you have. As time takes its inevitable toll on our bodies, you’ll learn to engage others and finally, to alter your expectations and abandon perfectionism. Pre-registration is not needed. A $10 fee (cash or check) will be payable at the door.
List your garden events like classes, workshops, seminars, club meetings, and plant sales for free.
Send details to elizabeth@kcgmag.com
Deadline for the December issue is November 7.
Ode to Margaret Gibbs, Simple and Plain
By Sheila Browning McMichael
She was an ol’ country girl, no frills, not a pearl. Nothing fancy. Simple and plain. Just an ol’ country girl.
She wore a man’s shirt, man’s pants and straw hat.
No need to impress and she was just fine with that.
I remember her hands, strong and big, like a man. No polish, no diamonds, just strong, big, and tan.
She worked in her garden. She worked in her yard. This ol’ country girl she knew how to work hard.
Her orchard; peaches, pears, apples, red and green. Her garden; cucumbers, onions and lots of green beans.
She even grew peanuts, like no one I know.
And her dirt was just perfect for the small potato.
She tilled and she weeded, she raked and she hoed. This ol’ country girl could make anything grow.
Just an ol’ country girl, hands calloused and big. She was simple and plain and she taught me to dig.
GARDEN CALENDAR
November list of what to do in the garden.
LAWNS
• Water newly planted trees and shrubs.
• Protect young plants from rabbit damage by wrapping them or making a wire screen.
• Continue to plant new trees and shrubs.
• Rake leaves.
• Check mulch layers and replenish to maintain a 2-to-3-inch depth.
• Prune dead or hazardous limbs.
• Do not prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs until after they bloom.
• Water evergreens to reduce winter injury in dry soil conditions.
VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
• Sort apples in storage and remove spoiled fruit.
• Clean and remove fallen fruit from around trees to reduce insects and disease next year.
• Treat peaches for peach leaf curl while dormant.
• Review garden notes about successes and failures.
• Start planning for next year.
• Take a soil test and make needed adjustments.
• Till garden soil and add organic matter.
• Plant a green manure crop such as winter wheat or rye for added organic matter.
• Remove all debris from the garden area to reduce insects and disease next year.
• Clean tomato cages and store.
HOUSEPLANTS
• Check plants for insects such as aphids and spider mites.
• Keep plants away from heat vents and cold drafts.
• Locate plants about 1 foot away from windows to protect them from winter cold.
• Reduce or stop fertilizing until spring.
• Water as needed and avoid letting roots stand in water.
• Rinse to remove dust from leaves.
• Continue dark treatment of poinsettias for holiday blooming.
• Plant and water amaryllis bulbs for Christmas blooms.
FLOWERS
• Clean up rose beds to help reduce disease for next season.
• Remove frost-killed annuals.
• Till annual flowerbeds and add organic matter to improve soil health.
• Continue to plant spring flowering bulbs.
• Dig and store tender bulbs, cannas, gladiolus, dahlias, and others in a cool, dark, dry area.
• Cut back tall rose canes to 24 inches to prevent winter breakage.
• Mulch tea roses with a cone of garden soil about 6 inches deep over the plant.
• Leave dead stems on perennials to provide nesting areas for native bees and pollinators.
• Wind-blown leaves in gardens provide a natural area for overwintering beneficial insects.
MISCELLANEOUS
• Clean and oil garden tools, sprayers, and other equipment for winter storage.
• Drain garden hoses and sprinklers and store indoors for increased life.
• Start a compost pile with fall leaves.
• Turn compost pile to hasten breakdown.
MY GARDEN (Use this space to list additional tasks to accomplish in your garden.)
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Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Anthony Reardon is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.
Change in seasons may affect gardener’s mental health
For most people, putting summer’s hot temperatures in the rearview mirror is a welcome transition. But as temperatures cool, it also signals the end of the traditional outdoor gardening season. It can lead to a condition known as seasonal affective disorder, or SAD, a type of depression in which the symptoms correspond with the seasons.
Fall and winter can bring feelings of lethargy and moodiness to affected individuals. The reduction in hours of sunlight is suspected to be one factor influencing SAD.
Other influences may be less time spent outdoors due to colder temperatures, resulting in more isolation and less socialization.
Consider season extension tools to continue growing crops outdoors. Season extension tools provide insulation, making it possible for plants to live beyond the typical growing season for the climate.
Some options include:
• Low tunnels. This is a row of plastic or wire hoops to support fabric that blankets the crops. The fabric is commonly made of spun-bonded polyes-
ter or polypropylene. Thicker fabrics are used to provide protection at lower temperatures.
• Cold frame. This resembles a small greenhouse and is often made of wood with framed windows. The small size makes the cold frame portable, so it can be placed of winter plantings, as needed. The top of the cold frame is often built at an angle to allow more light to enter when it’s positioned toward the sun.
• Milk jugs. Cut the bottom out of the jug and place the jug
over plants. Secure the jug to the ground. There are any number of decorative options, if the gardener doesn’t like the sight of milk jugs across the garden.
Cool season crops – including, but not limited to, radishes, lettuce and spinach – are great options for growing beneath a season extender. For mental health, also think about maintaining a healthy diet and exercising (gardening counts!). However, if you believe you are suffering from SAD, seek professional help for diagnosis and treatment.
Cynthia Domenghini writes a weekly newsletter for Kansas State University addressing timely topics in the garden. She works closely with Kansas Master Gardeners to answer their questions. A former elementary school teacher, she holds a doctoral degree in horticulture from Kansas State University.
Hotlines for Gardeners
Extension Master Gardeners are ready to answer your gardening questions.
913-364-5700; Leave a message. A Master Gardener will contact you.
MIAMI COUNTY & LINN COUNTY
913-294-4306; Thurs, 8am-noon
WYANDOTTE COUNTY
913-299-9300; Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm
QUESTIONS ABOUT ROSES?
Ask a Rosarian; rosehelp@kcrosesociety.org; www.kansascityrosesociety.org
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CYNTHIA DOMENGHINI Horticulturist
Shrub & Tree Sale
Fall is Nature’s planting time— Trees and shrubs planted now grow roots all winter and are better established come spring. Sale ends Dec. 8th.
Bring the season home with unique holiday decor. Ornaments, door mats, and a wide variety of life-like evergreen picks are in stores now. Shop early for the best selelction.
Scents Season
Enjoy the Fragrance
Fresh evergreen wreaths & roping Arriving the second week of November.
Select From the Best
Only the freshest & fullest Christmas trees. Trees available beginning November 23rd.
Choose from the Luxurious Permanent evergreen wreaths and roping. Available right now.
for Future Flowers
Take advantage of the remaining mild days of autumn by planting spring bulbs. You’ll be so thankful for the splash of color come the first days of Spring.
