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Ta gathering place
he sycamore began its leaf drop in September. No transitional color change, just straight to autumn brown as usual. With a far-reaching canopy, she showers the landscape, the neighbor’s and ours, with a layer of large leaves that measure five inches across. Another characteristic is its mottled bark that flakes off, revealing the greenish-white surface beneath. As the season progresses and winter takes hold, the uniqueness of the trunk and branches is more visible. This is my favorite feature— the almost-white branches against a blue sky in winter is stunning.
This tree was one of just a few mature trees on our property when we moved to Kansas in 1996. It was mature then, so I have no idea how old she is now. What I do know is how much we appreciate the shelter it provides from the sun, cooling our home and landscape.
Situated in the landscape under the sycamore is an oval 12’ X 16’ gazebo. Its cedar construction has given it long life (more than 25 years), and through the years has been a gathering place for family and friends for every occasion under the sun—mostly for no reason at all.
This outdoor living space is screened-in to keep away the bugs, has a ceiling fan to stir up a breeze when there is none, and a television when the bird activity gets boring (said no one ever!). It is large enough to accommodate a table
for six, where many of our family meals took place. When we became empty nesters, the patio set was replaced by cushioned patio chairs where Mr. Gardener and I could sit comfortably.
Recently we have come to enjoy the gazebo, this gathering place, even more. Now that it has been rejuvenated (new roof, new screens, and deep cleaning), and my mobility has improved, it has become a true outdoor living space. Even Louie, our orange tabby, wants to spend time in there, with or without us. Whether napping on a cushion, or perched to watch for intruders, Louie appreciates another locale to claim as his own.
In this place we are surrounded by plants of every type, where wildlife come for protection and nourishment. The simple activities of backyards birds, squirrels and chipmunks make the outdoor experience a delight. Even bees and butterflies stop by. There are bird feeders and nesting boxes within sight to watch the busyness of the season. There’s a birdbath nearby too. Right around dusk, you can easily hear the owls hooting in the trees high above. What a calming serenade to end the day.
In late September while sitting in this place, I received a text and photos from my daughter. She and her “pallies” attended a container workshop at a local nursery, and the pictures showed their plant selections, and the finished project.
There it was, an award-winning arrangement, satisfying the thrillerfiller-spiller essentials. A welcome sight for her home entryway. By the way, these are the same “pallies” that spent overnights in the gazebo, and still shy away from divulging too many details of their exploits. You know, the untold stories of escapades the parents never knew. Until one day at a wedding reception, they reminisce about those “gazebo parties” and the particulars are overheard by unsuspecting parents also in attendance.
Yep, this gazebo has plenty of stories to tell. It is my prayer that family and friends continue to gather in this place, sharing stories of younger days while creating new memories of love and laughter.
of fothergilla starting on page 10.
I’ll see you in the garden!
Hello, fellow gardeners! I am excited to introduce my new co-worker, Markis Hill, who has taken on the role of Ornamental Horticulture Agent at the Johnson County KState Extension office. Markis has a wealth of knowledge to share with you all in your gardening ventures and, as such, will be joining me monthly as we bring you the latest and greatest research-backed answers to your questions. We are thrilled to have him on board. Happy autumn!
PROCESS OF SOLARIZATION
Question: I want to try solarizing my vegetable garden beds this winter to eradicate some pests. Do you have any input on this? What kind of material should I use?
Anthony’s Answer: The process of solarization is essentially the practice of utilizing the sun’s heat to “bake” your soil, killing off weed seeds and select pathogens and insect pests. It is beneficial for weed control but can also be handy with soil-dwelling pests that overwinter in the soil in larval form.
If aiming to eradicate weed seeds, it is better to go over the beds with a clear plastic tarp. The light this allows through will effectively germinate the seedbed below, subsequently cooking off and killing the plants shortly afterward as they are deprived of water.
Black tarps can also be utilized for solarization purposes (though it’s technically called occultation at this point), with the caveat that at least 4 to 6 weeks of sun exposure will be necessary for effectiveness. Darker colors absorb heat, making the process take longer. Beyond six weeks, the effectiveness of solarization plateaus. However, the covered ground will remain a natural barrier from the pests mentioned.
Remember, this practice works in part because it causes water deprivation. Once the tarps are removed, amending said deprivation
Ask the Experts
will be necessary to revitalize your soil.
TIME TO DIVIDE PERENNIALS
Question: How late into the fall season can I divide the perennials in my yard?
Markis’ Answer: Fall is the best time to divide spring-blooming perennials. Iris, peonies, hostas, daylilies, and echinaceas are all examples of plants that can be lifted, divided, and transplanted in autumn with great success. Taking advantage of the cooler tempera-
ing, dividing, and establishing your perennials early before the cold winter months move in is essential.
FRUIT TREE WINTERIZATION
Question: Every year seems to bring new challenges for my fruit trees to fend off. Is there anything I can do to help them before the cold sets in?
Anthony’s Answer: When considering ways to winterize your fruit trees, many of the same efforts you give to your ornamental trees still holds. Namely, be sure to water
tures in fall will help keep plants from drying out once transplanted.
Most spring-blooming plants need a cold treatment to bloom successfully in the spring. This period can be as little as 30 or up to 105 days. Too little of a cold treatment can cause blooms to appear short and close to the ground, taking away from the beauty of your garden. Plan on dividing perennials four to six weeks before the ground freezes and becomes unworkable to receive the best-blooming potential. This time buffer establishes the roots before the plant goes completely dormant.
Climate change has influenced the amount of time the ground stays frozen, and that time is decreasing as the years go by. That is why lift-
the dripline of the trees 24” down to adequately soak their root zone and pre-emptively address winter drought conditions or winter burn. Cover the trunks of trees with tree guards to protect them from hungry wildlife, who may resort to stripping the bark for water and nutrients. Also, remember to wrap the trunks of smooth-barked trees to protect them from sunscald. Rapid thawing and freezing of cambium cells causes damage in the bark and can eventually lead to graft failures as the wound it creates instigates rot and damages internal wood.
As far as fruit production goes, there is. Unfortunately, there is little a homeowner can do to protect flower buds (which later fruit) from the critical temperatures that de-
stroy them. For smaller trees, construct burlap shields to divert harsh windchills. With these smaller specimens, pop-up tents or general covers are also an option, keeping in mind that if ice and snow are to accompany the cold, they can accumulate on these and cause mechanical damage. As long as the trees are dormant, flower/fruit buds will make it through the winter with no issue. Long periods of sub-zero temperatures will be the ones to watch for potential damage.
FUNGUS ON HYDRANGEA LEAVES
Question: Several of my hydrangeas are looking poorly. There are red spots all over my ‘Endless Summer’ Hydrangeas leaves. Is there anything I can do?
Markis’ Answer: The red spots are caused by a fungus called Cercospora leaf spot. This usually starts on the bottom leaf and moves its way up the plant. It can affect multiple species of hydrangea and other shrubs. Cercospora is not a disease that will kill your plant; it is mostly aesthetic damage. It can be caused by long periods of leaf wetness, and this year’s springtime precipitation made the landscape really wet.
Fungicide applications in spring can effectively control this common fungus; however, when the red spots are noticeable, it is too late for a chemical treatment. Outside of chemical applications, removing fallen leaves and dead plant material in the winter is a way to limit how many leaf spots you see the following year. This is because the spores overwinter in the plant debris. When water hits this debris, those spores are released and infect the new plant material.
The best control option for keeping this fungus (or any fungus) from turning your hydrangea into a big-leaf polk-a-dotted plant is to reduce overhead irrigation and increase airflow around the plant.
ANTHONY REARDON | Horticulture Agents | MARKIS HILL
Anthony and Markis are the horticulture agents for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension, each specializing in edible crops and ornamentals, respectively. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.
MESSAGE FROM ANTHONY
Fall is the best time to divide perennials like daylilies.
Rose Report weather watch; how roses are named
Here we are already preparing for our winter downtime in the rose garden. October temperatures can swing wildly, so we need to pay attention to the weather forecasts. Last year we saw October start off with a 90°F daytime high and end up with a 20°F low towards the end of the month. And then November leaves us guessing further – last year with daytime highs in the 70s and, of course, several days with low temps again.
We have already stopped fertilizing, so our next task is to cue the roses to slow down their growth. Since the weather may not be our friend, we stop deadheading (cutting off spent blooms) and pruning, as deadheading and cutting canes are both signals for the rose to grow. So, while the roses may not look as attractive, we just have to let them “go plain Jane.”
One thing we want to do is to continue monitoring precipitation and be sure the roses get the minimum of 1 inch a week between rain and irrigation. We want to water slowly and deeply so the roots have to grow deeper and will be less susceptible to the changes in weather.
Some gardeners like to apply compost in the fall with the longterm goal of improving the soil. As the compost breaks down over the winter, it will help amend your soil for next year. We’ll discuss how to protect the roses with compost next month.
Where Do Roses Get Their Names?
A visitor to the Laura Conyers Smith Rose Garden in Loose Park recently asked how roses are named and what do some of those crazy names really mean? What a fun question! It’s an entertaining answer…well, answers.
First, every rose in commerce (at least those introduced since
the ’70s) has at least two names –a breeder code and a commercial name. Breeder codes are used to register a new rose with the International Cultivar Registration Authority – Roses, which is managed by the American Rose Society. These names start out with a three-letter upper case reference to the breeder followed by a lower-case reference to the specific variety.
Our example today, found in the Laura Conyers Smith Rose Garden at Loose Park, is a lovely, fragrant pink hybrid tea known (in the U.S.) as Francis Meilland which has a breeder code MEItroni. This rose was developed in France by Meilland International, one of the world’s premier rose producers who use MEI as the breeder reference for all roses they introduce. It’s not obvious why they submitted the variety reference as “troni.” Often these references are a derivative
JERRY DREYER Consulting Rosarian
of the primary commercial name, but we needn’t invest any time to figure these out.
Now we reach the intriguing part of the international rose world. One variety may have multiple names across the world. This variety was introduced to the U.S. market as Francis Meilland to honor Francis, son of the founder of the family company House of Meilland. Second generation Francis was the breeder of the Peace rose, probably the most famous rose in the world.
Highly valued for its fragrance, this variety is also sold to greenhouse rose growers around the world for use as cut flowers. They buy this rose as Prince Jardinier® (Prince Gardener) named after a French aristocrat, Prince Louis Albert de Broglie who has a passion for gardening and a lifestyle company centered on the hobby
(Le Prince Jardinier). It appears that newer roses have replaced this variety in many cut flower markets, but it is still available in some countries.
Now if you were to travel to Australia, you’d find this variety offered there as Francis Meilland – Father of Peace. Long name, but sure pays a nice tribute.
Let’s jump to Germany where this rose is sold as Schloss Ippenburg (which is a castle in Bad Essen, Germany). So, maybe Germans like to buy more roses with destination names?
And to complicate matters even more, the website www.helpmefind.com lists additional names that include Alexandre Pouchkine®, My Garden, Pretty Perfumella and Pretty Woman®. And with that note, we circle back to that breeder code “MEItroni.” Using a breeder code in the search feature of this website, will bring up a home page for a variety that includes all the names used around the world. They say it’s a small world, but in the world of roses, all these different names sure make it seem much larger.
If you care to dig deeper into rose names, you will be glad to know there’s more for you on the subject. Available on Amazon is the book, A Rose by Any Name: The Little-Known Lore and Deep-Rooted History of Rose Names written by Stephen Scanniello, curator at the rose garden at the New York Botanical Garden.
Please check out the stunning, updated Kansas City Rose Society website at https://www.kansascityrosesociety.org/. You’ll also find a useful rose library with information on all the roses in the Laura Conyers Smith Rose Garden at https:// www.kcrsroselibrary.com/. And for questions about names or anything else related to roses, our new Consulting Rosarian email address is RoseHelp@kcrosesociety.org.
Moving up and down Interstate 35, Jerry Dreyer has grown roses over 10 years each in Iowa, Minnesota and Kansas. He is a Consulting Rosarian with the Kansas City Rose Society and American Rose Society. Hybridizing new roses is a special passion (or his wife asks, disorder?) along with experimenting with different propagation methods. Due to their most recent move to a shaded lot, he’s currently growing over 200 roses in pots.
Francis Meilland
Photo courtesy of Star ® Roses and Plants.
Crazy for Nuts
If you haven’t noticed, the squirrels have been very busy as of late, with stuffed cheeks, running up and down limbs; it’s nuts! Well of course it is. And it is fall, the time for nuts to… fall. (How can one avoid the low-hanging fruit of a nut pun…) What about growing nuts in our area? What species and what varieties grow best? And how can you make sure you can get a harvest? Here is a quick guide:
Walnuts (Juglans nigra and Juglans regia)
• Black Walnut (J. nigra, Native) 50’+ tall and wide, self-fertile. Black walnut is almost a weed in some areas; dropping dangerous orbs, and causing poor growth when certain species are planted in proximity due to the toxic compound Juglone.
Black walnuts can be much maligned in our urban areas for these attributes. However, it is a major industry in Missouri not only for nuts and timber, but also shells used for many industrial applications. A list of cultivars selected for larger nuts and easier kernel separation can be found here https://extension.missouri. edu/publications/xm1001/2.
• English/Persian/Carpathian Walnut (J. regia) 40’+ tall and wide, self-fertlie. This is the walnut you find in most grocery stores. Trees are hardy in our area to zone 5B. However, they can be slow to establish. Most nurseries will not ship to Missouri or Kansas due to Walnut Twig Beetle and Thou-
sand Cankers Disease, which could have devastating consequences for our Native walnut stands and walnut industries.
Pecans and Hickories (Carya sp.)
• (Carya illinoinensis). 50’+ tall and wide. Native to eastern North America. Yes, we can grow pecans around the metro if you have the space to do so. Pecans, like their cousins’ walnuts, need two separate flower types to ensure pollination, commonly referred to as type 1 flower (protandrous) and type 2 flower (protogynous).
“Major”, “Oswego”, “Kanza” and “Hark” are good scabresistant varieties. Pecans are bottomland trees and can tolerate wetter poorly drained soils.
• Shellbark Hickory (Carya laciniosa) 50’+ tall. Most people forage for these nuts. They are sweet and large, yet hard to shell and separate the kernel. “Hicans” of which there are many cultivars, are hybrids between Pecans and Shellbark Hickory. This hybrid combines the flavor of Shellbark, much like a sweet black walnut, with the thin shell of a Pecan.
Chestnuts (Castanea sp) 40’+ tall and wide.
• Most commonly grown species around here are the Chinese Chestnut (Castenea mollissima) and its selections. Chestnuts are known for their rich starchy nut, that can be roasted over an open fire… Cultivars
MATT BUNCH | The Giving Grove | SARAH SIKICH
Matt Bunch is The Giving Grove program director for Kansas City Community Gardens and Horticulturist for The Giving Grove’s national network. Contributing to this piece is Sarah Sikich, Marketing & Communications Manager for The Giving Grove. For more information about Kansas City’s Giving Grove program, visit www.kccg.org/giving-grove.
Black Walnut
Black Walnut
English Walnut Pecan
Chestnut
Chestnut
Peach Almond Hazelnut
like “Qing”, “Eaton”, “Homestead” and “Peach” are blight resistant, reliable producers of large nuts. All chestnuts have a spiny burr surrounding the nut, and the nut releases from the burr when ripe. Do not walk bare foot in a chestnut orchard! Trees prefer welldrained sandy-loam soils, with a pH below 7, which means siting them correctly or amending your site before planting. Chestnuts are selfinfertile, so you do need a pollinizer of another variety to ensure nut production.
° The American Chestnut (Castenea dentata), the one decimated by Chestnut Blight, is available from select nurseries. The nuts are smaller than Chinese, Japanese and Spanish species (Japanese and Spanish cultivars are not recommended here). The selections of American species for sale are blight-resistant, and a mostly American hybrid, “Dunstan” is known as a good producer of larger nuts.
Almonds (Prunus dulcis, Prunus dulcis x persica) 12-15’ hxw
• Most Almonds do not grow well around our area due to cold hardiness, they are zone 7-9, and our thick clay soils. However, there are a couple of self-fertile varieties that do well. “Reliable” is a hybrid Peach-Almond and is considered a sweet almond. “Reliable” flowers are bright pink in early spring before peach trees flower. The shell of “Reliable” is thick like a peach seed, making them a chore to crack. “All-in-One” is a selffertile thin-shelled variety, however it is more particular about soils and is intolerant of poorly drained soils.
Hazelnuts (Corylus sp.)
• There are many species of Hazelnuts and Filberts; often the common name is interchangeable. Most hazelnuts, except for the rare Trazel (tree hazel), and cultivated contorted filberts known as “Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick” and “Red Majestic” are multitrunked
shrubs 10-15’ tall. C. avellana, the European species, is the most commonly grown for nuts. Many hybrids between the native C. americana (which makes a great landscape shrub with tasty yet small nuts), and C. avellana are now available on the market. Most of these hybrids offer Eastern Filbert
blight-resistance. Pollination is hugely important for hazelnuts, and one should understand which varieties will be compatible with one another (a genetic challenge!). I always recommend planting 3 varieties to ensure adequate pollination. Recommended varieties: “Slate”, “Gene”, “Cheryl”, and “The Beast”.
Nut trees and shrubs can add not only shade, beauty and longevity to the landscape, but they are a wonderful source of sustainable protein. So, if you haven’t already gone nuts (most of us gardeners have) consider growing nuts in the future.
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CONFERENCE TOPICS
WATER TECH & PLANT HEALTH
Irrigation
Organic Products to Reduce Runoff and Contamination
Long Term Maintenance Plans
Turf Maintanance
SOIL TECH
Unearthing the Secrets of Soil: The Powerhouse of Plant Nutrition
Soil Oxygen: The Real Limiting Factor For Urban Trees
Plant Soil Functionality and Nutrient Cycling
PLANT TECH
Biophilia and Interiorscaping
Improving Plant Respiration and Why
Carbonic Acid is a Game Changer
Crevice Gardens and Trees: Lessons from the Arid West
TREE TECH
Diversifying Urban Canopy with Missouri Trees
Urban Orchard Revolution: Pruning for Productivity and Sustainability
Surviving the Dry Spell: Understanding Drought Stress in Trees and Shrubs
Fothergilla
“It is one of the great American native shrubs for fall color.”
– Dr. Michael Dirr
Often overlooked in the nursery, swamped by the flood of new plant introductions (think hydrangea), sits the American native Fothergilla (foth-er-GIL-la). Adaptable to lighting, Fothergilla will grow in full sun to shade, although significant shade will decrease blooming and dull down fall color. Welldrained, acidic soil preference makes Fothergilla a great companion plant to Ericaceae species such as Azalea, Rhododendron and Pieris, but do not fear full sun, exposed conditions. A true multi-season plant, Fothergilla provides gardeners with spring blooms, clean summer foliage and outstanding fall color.
As the plant wakes up in the spring, the foliage is preceded by 2” spires of fine, white flowers such that each stalk resembles a bottlebrush, giving the plant one of its few common names, “Bottlebrush.” The gentle honey scent tugs at your shirt sleeve to come enjoy the flowers.
With the typical three-plusweek blooming period, the foliage of Fothergilla will emerge as the plant is flowering. The leaves closely resemble its cousin, Witchhazel, in both outline and texture.
Two- to three-inch long, one- to two-inch wide leaves sport a deep green to blue color with a prominent white/silver underside. Rarely, if ever, do insects or disease effect the plant, keeping its appearance tidy through the summer months. With the onset of fall, the real show begins.
October brings the riot of color that has no peer in a landscape
shrub. Red, orange, yellow, even purple and pink can all be seen in the foliage of a single plant. The red tones rival Burning Bush and Sweetspire, but with the additional colors in its repertoire, Fothergilla makes them blush with envy.
The genus Fothergilla has two species; Fothergilla gardenii and Fothergilla major, with a new hybrid cross, Fothergilla x intermedia, recently introduced. Commonly considered “dwarf” Fothergilla, F. gardenii contains approximately 14 cultivars, the variety ‘Blue Mist’ being the most prevalent. This species is compact in height, under
three feet, with smaller leaves and bloom spires. The width of the plant is variable though, as plants tend to sucker significantly. This species is also described as less vigorous than Fothergilla major. Beyond ‘Blue Mist,’ one might occasionally see ‘Jane Platt’ or ‘Harold Epstein’ but it is best to use F. gardenii as a singular specimen or collectable feature.
Although Fothergilla major contains over 15 named cultivars, by far the most prominent are ‘Mount Airy’ and ‘Blue Shadow.’ Both are slow growing (4”-6” a year), rounded outline shrubs with
a mature size of 5’-6’ in height and width. With their slow, even growth, they rarely require pruning. Plants can be trimmed to downsize the shrub or tighten up the outline, but as old wood bloomers, post bloom spring pruning is best. In flower, ‘Mount Airy’ and ‘Blue Shadow’ look identical. As their foliage emerges, the difference becomes apparent. ‘Mount Airy’ sports a leathery, deep green leaf, while ‘Blue Shadow’ shines with a powder blue coloration. Both pop equally in the fall with their rainbow of hues, lighting up the landscape. In the past few years, Proven Winners has introduced two new Fothergilla hybrids in the species listed as “x-intermedia”. The first introduction, ‘Legend of the Fall,’ is detailed at 4’-5’ high and wide, which would put it slightly more compact than ‘Mount Airy’ and ‘Blue Shadow.’ It is described by Proven Winners as having “the best fall color of all Bottlebrushes.” The other introduction in this species is named ‘Legend of the Small.’ Listed as 24”-30” high and 24”36” wide, the stature of this plant more closely resembles Fothergilla gardenii in size. Like F. gardeniis, the bloom and foliage size are more compact than F. major varieties. Both have summer foliage color that resembles ‘Mount Airy.’
As a big fan of Fothergilla, over the years I have grown ‘Mount Airy,’ ‘Blue Shadow,’ ‘Blue Mist,’ and ‘Jane Platt’ in my own yard. I have recently added both of the new ‘Legends’ to the landscape to evaluate their performance. My top pick is, and probably always will be, ‘Blue Shadow.’
Ken is a lifelong resident of the area, a green industry expert for 43 years—all with Family Tree Nursery. Hobbies include working in the yard (of course), backyard barbeque, studying military history, and travel. A wonderful wife of 30 years, three adult children and an awesome four-year-old grandson that is already a tree hugger.
Ken “Woody” Wood Green Industry Expert
Mount Airy
Photo by Ken Wood.
Photo by Ken Wood.
Photo by Ken Wood.
Photo by Ken Wood.
Photo by Ken Wood.
Photo by Spring Meadow Nursery.
Photo by Spring Meadow Nursery.
Above: Legend of the Fall® Below: Legend of the Small®
Blue Shadow
Above: Blue Shadow Below: Mount Airy
Blue Shadow
One of my favorite features of this magazine is “Plants on Your Plate.” Besides finding new recipes and nutritional information, I enjoy learning the history and cultural origins of edible plants. We should pause occasionally and appreciate our food, and consider its sources and production methods. Modern agriculture gives us an abundant, year-round food supply, but its environmental impacts are severe, including soil depletion and water contamination with fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides. Especially in the Midwest, vast swathes of habitat have been lost to crops, feedlots, and fescue pastures. Grassland and prairie bird populations have decreased by 53% over the past 50 years, making them the most threatened group of bird species. Fortunately, “regenerative” agriculture is slowly gaining visibility and acceptance. Its methods are designed to heal and sustain landscapes and support wildlife, while providing more nutritious food and protecting farmers’ livelihoods.
Eating for the Birds
saic” supports a greater diversity of insects (including native bees) and birds, including meadowlarks, bobwhites, shrikes, and sparrows. Bird monitoring confirms this: one Missouri ranch has experienced significant increases in quail (5-fold) and meadowlarks (6-fold) in just 10 years!
Over a decade ago, the National Audubon Society began formulating a nationwide plan to restore grasslands and their birds. In Missouri and Kansas, the vast majority of land (>90%) is privately owned, with more than 70 million acres devoted to agriculture, including beef cattle ranching. No conservation effort could succeed without landowner cooperation. The result was the Audubon Conservation Ranching Initiative. Biologists work directly with ranchers to restore native grasses and flowers to their pastures and limit chemical use. Cattle are rotated frequently to new grazing areas to maintain stands of short, medium, and tall plants, as bison once did. This habitat “mo-
Currently, 114 ranches in 15 states (covering almost 3 million acres) are designated as “Audubon Certified Bird Friendly Habitat.” Their meat is also friendly to consumers: the ACR program requires cattle to be free of hormones and antibiotics, and humane animal welfare standards are observed. Producers find that cattle thrive on native forage and can often be completely grassfed, eliminating the need for grains and feedlot confinement. Remember that not all grassfed beef is eco-friendly. Some originates from countries where wilderness (such as rainforests) has been destroyed to create cattle ranches. Wouldn’t we rather “eat for the birds?” Consider purchasing bird-friendly beef instead. Blue Nest Beef (bluenestbeef.com) is an excellent regional supplier. Cope Grass Farm and Grass Roots Farmer’s Co-op are Missouri-based producers. Find other retailers at www. audubon.org/marketplace/conservation-ranching-products.
If you enjoy coffee, you can also “drink for the birds!” Most of the world’s coffee (75%) is grown in full sun on clear-cut plantations, leading to deforestation and soil depletion. Certified “Bird-Friendly” coffee is organically grown in the shade of a variety of trees and shrubs, creating vital winter habitat for our migratory birds, especially warblers, thrushes, tanagers, and orioles. Birds feed on pests such as coffee berry borers and find fruit in the tree canopy. Trees conserve soil nutrients, and reduce water runoff and landslides. Plant diversity increases insect populations and diversity, facilitating coffee pollination and supporting bats, reptiles and other wildlife. Shade-coffee
producers gain a slower growing but more flavorful and profitable product. Some also benefit from ecotourism and earn additional income by harvesting firewood, fruit, building materials and medicinal plants on their farms. For more information, see “Ecological Benefits of Shade Grown Coffee” by the Smithsonian’s National Zoo and Conservation Biology Institute. Drinking shade-grown coffee is one of the easiest ways to support birds, and hopefully, increased demand will stimulate the conversion of more sun-coffee plantations into lush forest oases for wildlife. Locally, you can purchase shade coffee (samples and full-size packages) at Backyard Bird Center in Kansas City North, and seasonally in winter at Wild Birds Unlimited in Leawood, Kansas. Bird-friendly products also make great gifts!
My December column will be devoted to answering selected reader inquiries. Do you have a “burning bird question”? Submit it to: mail@burroughs.org no later than October 25. (Due to space limitations, some questions may be answered via email.)
Elizabeth Stoakes is currently President of Burroughs Audubon Society in Kansas City and has been birding for over 25 years. Please contact BAS via mail@burroughs.org or text/call 816-795-8177 with any birding questions.
Mon.-Fri. 9a-6p • Sat. 9a-1p (closed for lunch 12:45-1:30) Fall clean up is upon us: Chain Saws, Leaf Blowers, all in stock now! This is the
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Come enjoy fresh air & autumn at Arnold’s Prairie: Trees, Shrubs, Perennials, Mums, Fall Color Pots, Pansies, Cornstalks, Décor, Fall Veggies & Garlic, Pumpkins, Fall Bulbs (Tulips, etc), Louisburg Apple Cider, Grass Seed, Straw Bales, Mulch, Fertilizers, Tools & More! - Low 6.5% sales tax at our rural location -
1430 Hwy. 58, LeRoy KS 66857 info@arnoldsgreenhouse.com Sunday 1 - 5 pm Follow us on Facebook for all the latest news and specials!
Missouri Wildflowers Nursery
573-496-3492, fax: 573-496-3003 www.mowildflowers.net mowldflrs@socket.net 9814 Pleasant Hill Rd Jefferson City MO 65109
Meet us at one of these locations in the KC area. Give us your order by Tuesday before a sale, and we’ll bring it to the location.
Shawnee Indian Mission Foundation - Fall Native Plant Sale at Shawnee Indian Mission, 3403 W. 53rd St, Fairway KS 66205. September 28, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. shawneeindianmission.org
Missouri Prairie Foundation Native Plant Sale at Missouri Western State University, 4525 Downs Drive, St. Joseph MO 64507. Sunday, September 29, 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. deeprootskc.org.
Prairie Jubilee. A fun and educational event, plus plants! At Prairie State Park, 128 NW 150th Lane, Mindenmines, MO 64769 https://nostateparks.com/event/92326/paririe-jubilee We’re open weekdays, year-round at the nursery (9814 address above) and weekends now until October 16.
Go Boldly into the Native Garden
Some of the best-looking gardens include plants with big, bold leaves that add dramatic, visual “texture.” Hosta, a plant from Japan, is a good example. Its popularity is founded in its big, bold brush strokes of blue-, yellow-, and white-striped leaves that resemble fancy parasols more than merely mortal, everyday plants. Today, the passion for hosta is still going strong, though there are other, more local bold plants to choose from.
My favorite bold native plant for shade is American spikenard (Aralia racemosa), a member of the ginseng family. In rich, moist soil, its leaves reach parasol-sized proportions and can grow to 4 feet or taller. Planted in more humble clay soils, plants are shorter and leaves are smaller, though still impressive. Its leaves are compound with 3- to 6-inch leaflets—one of the largest and showiest herbaceous plants in the Ozarks. Oh, and it’s a major insect magnet, attracting aphids, ants, bees, flies, beetles, skippers, assassin bugs, jumping spiders, and the occasional praying mantis—a nonfinicky ambush predator known to hang out near other insect magnets, like blazing star, mountain mint, and milkweed.
Other big-leaved perennials for
shady landscapes include species of Indian plantains or Cacalia (now called Arnoglossum). The biggest of these is pale Indian plantain (Arnoglossum atriplicifolia) often topping out at 5 to 6 feet or more. And then there is prairie Indian plantain (A. plantaginea), which has narrower, glossy leaves like a true plantain. It tends to grow at the edges of rocky woodlands. And finally, my favorite—the great Indian plantain (Cacalia muhlenbergii) with large scallop-shaped basal leaves. This one can’t be beat. For me, Indian plantains are a musthave perennial for all of my shady garden designs, especially the ones with elbow room.
In shady gardens, there are other bold-textured native plants to choose from. Nothing stands out like the antler-like leaves of sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilus), a creature of moist to average soils. Or ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris), with leaves like peacock feathers. Ostrich fern is more water-dependent, and both species colonize by rhizomes and prefer growing in rich, moist soil.
Other favorites for shade include Jack-in-the pulpit (Arisaema triphylla), though it often flops in late summer under the weight of bright red berry clusters, and wood-
SCOTT WOODBURY Horticulturist
land or Virginia knotweed (also known as jumpseed; Persicaria virginiana), whose spikes of small white flowers create a pleasing contrast with its round leaves. And an evergreen ground cover, golden groundsel (Packera aurea), which has bold round leaves on plants 8 to 10 inches tall.
For sunny gardens, I often rely on southern blue flag iris (Iris virginica), for its high-contrasting, spike-like foliage. It blooms nicely, but only briefly, and is a foliage plant for most of the growing season. It has the potential to outgrow its boundaries, needing division after three years.
My favorite plant for bold texture in full sun is prairie dock (Silphium terebinthinaceum). Its graceful, leafless flower stalks tower over giant heart-shaped leaves that add a solid punch of bold texture to any garden, wall, or horizon. I especially like it with a skirt of wirey prairie dropseed grass (Sporobolus heterolepis) or star sedge (Carex radiata). It always becomes a dominant focal point, so locate it next to something else you want to look at: a boulder, sculpture, patio, or a view out the window. Its
yellow flowers sit on top of 4- to 6-foot tall stalks. It is a landscape designer’s best “living accessory” to make a garden truly stand out from the crowd.
Last are bold plants that grow in shallow water (emergent aquatics) in a water garden, large container, or pond. Pickerel plant (Pontedaria cordata), arrow leaf (Sagittaria latifolia), and arrow arum (Peltandra virginica) are the most stunning foliage plants, but they need to grow in permanent shallow water, ideally less than 18 inches deep. They tolerate full sun or part shade and fluctuating water levels. Wild canna (Thalia dealbata) resembles tropical canna lily, but is winterhardy in Missouri. It’s best grown in part shade because in full sun it can be aggressive. Ponds will fill in with cattail if you don’t ring them with diverse mix of other emergent aquatic plants first.
Next time you are tempted to plant hosta, try a big-leaved native plant instead. All creatures big and small will take note, and the world will be a noticeably better place. Happy gardening!
Scott Woodbury was the horticulturist at Shaw Nature Reserve for 30 years and stepped down from that position in June 2022. He continues to work on contract for Shaw Nature Reserve to carry out native landscaping education and has launched his own business called Cacalia: Native Garden Design and Wilding. Find suppliers of native plants, seeds, and services at the Grow Native! Resource Guide: www.moprairie.org.
Prairie dock
American spikenard
Great Indian Plantain
Photos by Scott Woodbury.
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• The ground has settled from spring and summer rains and shouldn’t be impacted by the freezing/warming of the winter months.
• You can avoid the spring pond building rush.
• Your newly build pond will overwinter and start fresh and new in the spring.
• Plant hardy aquatic plants and get a head start in the spring.
• Enjoy spectacular ice sculptures and your own winter wonderland during the winter months.
• Add night lighting to enjoy the sights of your water feature inside during the longer cold evening hours.
Kids Ask Dr. Bug about the curious things found in the garden
Why do some bugs make so much noise at night?
Several insects, like crickets and katydids, make noise at night to find others of their species. Male crickets rub their wings together to create that chirping sound, hoping to attract a female or warn other males to stay away. Each cricket species has its own song, so if you listen closely, you can tell what kind of cricket is singing. Female crickets can’t make sounds because they don’t have the special file-andscraper structures on their wings, but they do have ears—on their legs!—to hear the songs.
Katydids also rub their wings together to make their distinctive sounds. This sound-making process is called stridulation.
These insects are most active at night when it’s cooler and there are fewer predators around. Next time you’re outside in the evening, take a moment to enjoy the nighttime insect concert!
For more fun facts about insect sounds, watch the Kids Ask Dr. Bug YouTube videos. August’s video was all about insect songs: https://youtu.be/-jCREA0nDOs.
Do bugs trick or treat?
Not like we do, by dressing up and knocking on doors for candy, but insects definitely have their own tricks, and some offer treats as well! Many insects are masters of camouflage. One of the funniest tricks is played by caterpillars that look like bird poop. This clever disguise helps them avoid being eaten. Another sneaky insect is the walking stick, which looks very much like a twig and even sways like a stick in the breeze when it moves to blend in with its surroundings. Another insect that plays tricks is the caddisfly larva that dresses up like its surroundings by attaching whatever is nearby—sticks, leaves,
or small stones—to its body with silk threads.
Some insects give treats, too! Male insects often bring tasty gifts to females as part of courtship. Scientists think this helps the female get more nutrients, so she can lay healthier eggs so more of the offspring survives. Sometimes,
dating too, with their long, spiky legs and heads that turn to follow you. But they’re excellent hunters, eating insects that can damage your plants. Sometimes they catch helpful insects, but overall, they’re beneficial in the garden.
And let’s not forget spiders— though they’re not insects, they’re
Swallowtails try to scare off predators using stinky, bright orange osmeteria.
though, the gift is meant to keep the female occupied so she doesn’t eat the male!
Are any bugs scary looking but actually super helpful?
Some people think that all critters with more than four legs are creepy, but the truth is, less than 2% of insects are pests—meaning over 98% are helpful or harmless! A lot of insects that look scary are actually great to have around.
One of my favorite “scary” insects is the swallowtail butterfly caterpillar. When disturbed, it pops out two bright orange, antennaelike organs from its head and sometimes flings itself toward whatever is bothering it. These organs, called osmeteria, release a stinky smell to scare predators away.
Praying mantises can be intimi-
TAMRA REALL Horticulture Specialist
also very helpful! Spiders eat pests in the garden and in your home. My favorite is the jumping spider, with its big eyes and fuzzy body. Jumping spiders sometimes wave their arms to make themselves look bigger, but it’s pretty cute. Male jumping spiders also have elaborate dance moves to attract a mate. Some people even keep them as pets, but I prefer to let them roam free in my garden to keep pests in check.
One insect that doesn’t look scary but can be dangerous is the mosquito. They can spread diseases and bite without you even noticing. That’s why it’s important to wear bug repellent and get rid of standing water where mosquitoes breed.
Do people really eat bugs?
Yes, in many parts of the world,
people eat insects as a regular part of their diet. This practice is called entomophagy. Insects like crickets, grasshoppers, and mealworms are packed with protein, vitamins, and healthy fats, and seasonings can be added when cooking. People even say they taste good! Eating insects can also be good for the environment because farming insects uses fewer resources than raising animals like cows or chickens. While it might sound strange to some, eating bugs is actually quite common and nutritious. Plus, since it’s impossible to keep all insect parts out of our food, you’ve already eaten some without even knowing it!
How do entomologists use AI? Entomologists, like many other scientists, are exploring how artificial intelligence (AI) can help us learn more. Generative AI can be very useful, but we have to be careful because it doesn’t always get things right. One of the cool things AI can do is compare lots of insect photos really fast to help identify different species. It can also make predictions about where certain insects might show up based on things like weather and habits. AI can even help scientists be more creative! For example, I used AI to make a fun insect game where you catch fireflies. Want to try it? https://bit.ly/CatchFireflies.
Did you know that there is a Kids Ask Dr. Bug video series? Check it out! https://bit.ly/KADBvideos
Do you have questions for Dr. Bug? Send them to https://bit. ly/KidsAskDrBug. To help her learn what you learn from this column, or to share feedback, please consider filling out this survey: https://bit.ly/KidsAsk DrBugSurvey.
Dr. Tamra Reall (@MUExtBugN Garden) is the horticulture specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For free, research-based gardening tips, call 816-833-TREE (8733), email mggkc.hotline@gmail.com, or visit www.extension.missouri.edu.
Photo by Tamra Reall.
Upcoming Garden Events
The Garden Club of Shawnee
Thurs, Oct 3, 7p; at Shawnee Town 1929 Town Hall, 11600 Johnson Dr, Shawnee, KS. The Garden Club of Shawnee has awarded six grants to local non-profits this year, and we will hear presentations on the gardening projects the grant recipients used their award money for. As always, we will serve drinks and snacks, and great door prizes will be given away. Visitors are always welcome! Please visit our web site gardenclubofshawnee.org and our Facebook page for more information.
Heartland Peony Society
Sat, Oct 18, 9a-12p; at Asbury United Methodist Church, 5400 W 75th St, Prairie Village, KS 66208. Annual Speaker meeting presents Carol Adelman. Carol and her husband, Jim started Adelman Peony Farms near Salem, Oregon, over 30 years ago. Carol will share how they began growing peonies and about all things new in the peony world.
Kansas City Cactus and Succulent Society
Sun, Oct 20, 1:30p; at Trailside Center, 9901 Holmes Rd, Kansas City, MO. The club will sponsor members’ annual “plant swap” of extra plants they are willing to part with, giving other club members the opportunity to give the plants a new home.
Leawood Garden Club
Tues, Oct 22, 10:30a; at Cure of Ars Catholic Church, 9401 Mission Rd, Leawood, KS 66206. Program: “Bringing the Outside in for the Holidays…12 Garden Décor ideas for the 12 Days of Christmas.” Guest Speaker Steve Hess. Steve is an art educator, passionate gardener, designer and sculptor living in Overland Park, KS. He works in concrete, hypertufa and recycled handmade paper and has shared his products and gardens with area garden clubs for many years. Steve gardens creates and teaches regularly from his garden studio, From the Summer’s Garden, which continues to be a source for inspiration and raw materials in the joyful creation of fantastical, functional art for your garden and you. Steve also works as creative director for the Printery House of Conception Abbey creating greeting cards and gifts available in bookstores, through mail order and online shopping. He teaches Basic Design at Conception Seminary College. He balances this activity with creative development, design and production in his Overland Park studio with a staff of high school art students. From the Summer’s Garden offers unusual Studios and Creative Workshop experiences for people to make their own creations. He likes to share ideas with people showing them how to change their thinking about traditional garden décor to keep it fresh. An avid gardener, he has appeared in Better Homes and Gardens Magazine Country Gardens Magazine, was featured on PBS was television’s “The Perennial Gardener,” and appeared on “Crafting Across America” on HGTV .
Orchid Society of Greater Kansas City Sun, Oct 13, 1:30-4:30p; at Merriam Com-
munity Center, 6040 Slater St, Merriam, KS 66202. Michael Rafferty, OSGKC member, will speak on the Medicinal Powers of Orchids. Open to the public. More information at osgkc.org and find us on Facebook.
Raytown Garden Club
Tues, Oct 1, 10a; at Connection Point Church, 10500 E 350 Hwy, Raytown, MO 64138. Program will be “The Benefits of Ornamental Grasses in Our Spaces” presented by Jennifer Barnes, RGC member, Master Naturalist and former Senior Gardener at Powell Gardens. Guests are always welcome. For more information please check out our Facebook page: https://www. facebook.com/RaytownGardenClub.
Haunted Nursery Walk
Saturday evenings in Oct, 6:30-8p; at Vinland Valley Nursery, 1606 N 600 Rd, Baldwin City, KS 66006. Come out to the valley for a spooky walk through the forest behind the greenhouses — all new surprises await you. BYOB! We’ll have hot chocolate and cider available for purchase. All ages are welcome, but the night walk might be a little scary for the very young — the walk is open for daytime spooky exploration during regular business hours for younger kids. 785.594.2966; vinlandvalleynursery.com
Kansas Orchid Society Fall Show and Sale
Sat, Oct 5, 9a-3p; at Botanica, the Wichita Gardens. Over 100 blooming orchids on display, Educational information, children’s activities, experienced growers to answer questions, vendors with supplies and other goods. Orchids for sale, most not found in the area. For more information, email svcsip@gmail.com or visit our Facebook page.
Kaw Valley Farm Tour: Vinland Valley Nursery
Sat, Oct 5, 9a-8p and Sun, Oct 6, 9a-5p; at 1606 N 600 Rd, Baldwin City, KS 66006. Fall is a great time for planting! On top of our vast selection of perennials, shrubs, trees, and landscaping supplies we’ll have fall plants and decorations, food and beverage, games and activities for our stop on the annual Kaw Valley Farm Tour! Mark the occasion in the Moon photo booth and all-new Giddyup video booth. Our Haunted Walk opens Oct 5 and we’ll be open late to ring in the spooky season!
Burroughs Audubon Society Open House
Sat, Oct 12, 10a-3p; at BAS Library & Nature Center in Fleming Park (Lake Jacomo), 7300 SW West Park Rd, Blue Springs, MO 64015. Join us as we celebrate 50 years in the “Little House in the Woods”! See live birds from Lakeside Nature Center from 11a-1p, learn about Missouri mammals, and talk turtles with the Turtle Ladies. We’ll also have bird-themed crafts and games. Learn how you can support birds and create habitat at home. Free and open to all. (Note: this event will be held outdoors, so please dress accordingly.) Please call or text (816)795-8177 with any questions.
Orchid Show
Fri, Oct 25, 3-8p and Sat, Oct 26, 9a-4p; at Merriam Community Center,6040 Slater St, Merriam, KS 66202. The annual regional orchid show, “Bewitched By Orchids”. Area society displays from Omaha, St Louis, Springfield, and Fayetteville. Vendors from Minnesota, Chicago, Wichita, St. Louis and our local Bird’s Botanicals. Open to the public. Admission $5. More information at osgkc.org and find us on Facebook.
Tree Risk Assessment
Thurs, Oct 3, 11:30a; in the Sunflower Room of the Wyandotte County Extension Office, 1208 N 79th St, Kansas City, KS. Presented by Tyler Fike, Horticulturist for the City of Lawrence, KS. Trees are often seen as the centerpieces of our landscapes. Injuries, disease, or poor growth habits can make them vulnerable to damage from our intense spring weather. Tyler will teach you how to identify such risks, so that you will know when and how to address them. Preregistration is not required. A $10 class fee is payable by cash or check at the door.
Dried Wreath Making
Sun, Oct 6, 1p; at Vinland Valley Nursery, 1606 N 600 Rd, Baldwin City, KS 66006. At this workshop, you will learn how to use dried floral on vine or twig forms to create the perfect autumn wreath. Using your choice of materials from our stock of natural dried flowers and plants, we will show you how to build on one of two types of wreath forms to create your own personalized fall decor. Craft a vine wreath with a floral spray accent, or build up a twig wreath with your favorite fall drieds – top off either type with a beautiful ribbon. Floral wire and tools provided, materials priced per piece. $30 per person. Registration price includes wreath base, floral wire, and select dried floral/plant material. Additional supplies paid at the workshop! 785.594.2966; vinlandvalleynursery.com
Indian Mound Neighborhood Association Pumpkin Patch
Sat, Oct 19, 1-4p; at 501 North Belmont Blvd, Kansas City, MO 64123. Join us for a day of outdoor fall fun and pumpkins galore. The Master Gardeners of Greater Kansas City Children’s Program will be presenting “Pollinators: Not Just Bees and Butterflies.” Children can learn about living and non-living ways plants are pollinated and learn that pollinators work both day and night. There will be an experiment using an insect to pollinate paper flowers and learn ways to help pollinators in their own home and community.
Walnut Ink Making
Sat, Oct 19, 1p; at Vinland Valley Nursery, 1606 N 600 Rd, Baldwin City, KS 66006. Learn how to make walnut ink for calligraphy or fine art. Together we will forage for walnuts, then gather in the workshop to go through the process of making ink step-bystep. You will leave with a jar of walnut ink and all the info you need to make your own at home. $25 per person. 785.594.2966, vinlandvalleynursery.com
Houseplants: What You Need to Know About Choosing, Caring and Overwintering
Wed, Oct 23, 6:30p; at Basehor Community Library, 1400, 158th St, Basehor, KS 66007. Cara Kruid, a Leavenworth County Master Gardener, will share some practical advice, suggestions and a lot of encouragement on learning how to choose the right plants for your home environment; how to care for your plants; how to transition from outside to inside and overwintering your houseplants. The meeting is free and visitors are welcome. For more information contact the Leavenworth County Extension office at 913-364-5700.
Nature’s Oddballs
Sat, Oct 26, 10a-12p; at Burr Oak Woods Nature Center, 1401 Northwest Park Rd, Blue Springs, MO 64015. Burr Oak Woods Nature Center and The Master Gardeners of Greater Kansas City invite you to enrich your life through nature immersion, which can reduce stress, improve sleep and many more possible health benefits! Join Burr Oak Woods Naturalist, Lisa Richter to discover just how “odd” nature can be with a slide show and trivia game before we go out to the forest to practice hands-on basics of how to remove invasives like bush honeysuckle and privet from the landscape. Free to the public, adults 18 and over welcomed.
Bulb Planting and Forcing
Sat, Nov 2, 1p; at Vinland Valley Nursery, 1606 N 600 Rd, Baldwin City, KS 66006. At this workshop, you will learn all about fall planted bulbs. We will take a trip out to one of the VVN flower beds for a lesson in how to plant bulbs in the ground, then return to the workshop to learn how to force bulbs in pots. You will leave with the knowledge you need to plant bulbs confidently plus your own potted tulip or narcissus bulb prepared for forcing. $40 per person. Additional VVN-designed and packaged bulb collections and individual bulbs will be available, priced as marked. 785.594.2966; vinlandvalleynursery.com
Celebrate Fall in the Garden
Sat, Nov 2, 10a-1p; at George Owens Nature Park, 1601 Speck Rd, Independence, MO 64057. Come celebrate all the beauty of fall with Master Gardeners of Greater Kansas City and a Naturalist from George Owens. Join us for a seed saving clinic at 10:30a, then stay to watch demonstrations, learn about the importance of soil testing and find out what to do with all those fallen leaves. For more information or questions please contact mggkc.market.pub@gmail. com. Family-friendly, with activities for all ages. Children under 16 must be accompanied by an adult.
List your garden events like classes, workshops, seminars, club meetings, and plant sales for free.
Send details to elizabeth@kcgmag.com
Deadline for the November issue is October 7.
CLASSES | SEMINARS
TOURS | SHOWS | FESTIVALS
GARDEN CALENDAR
October list of what to do in the garden.
• Wrap the bases of young trees and shrubs to protect them from rabbits.
• Mowing heights for bluegrass and tall fescue in the fall is 2 ½ to 3 inches.
• Core aerate to help loosen heavy clay soils and break down thatch.
• Fertilize now if not already done so once this fall.
• Control dandelions, henbit, and chickweed in the fall. Treat as needed.
• Sharpen the mower blade after every 10 hours of use to get a clean cut.
• Rake leaves as they fall to avoid winter suffocation of turf.
• Mulch mow leaves back into the lawn if leaf debris will not cover the surface.
FLOWERS
• Plant tulips, daffodils, and other spring flowering bulbs.
• Clean up faded annuals.
• Trim perennial stems to tidy garden and keep diseases and insects in check.
• Plant bulbs in pots to force winter blooming.
• Dig tender bulbs such as gladiolas and cannas. Store in a cool, dry place over the winter.
• Update your garden journal with successes and failures while fresh in your mind.
• Take advantage of fall sales and plant new perennials.
• Divide overgrown perennials.
TREES AND SHRUBS
• Plant new trees and shrubs.
• Water establishing plants during dry spells.
• Transplant seedlings of trees and shrubs once dormant.
• Prune damaged and dead wood from trees and shrubs.
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•
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• LAWN
• Rake leaves and compost or use as garden mulch.
• Remove tree stakes if in place longer than one year.
VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
• Store unused seeds in a cool, dry location.
• Pick up and discard fallen fruit to reduce disease and insects for next year.
• Plant garlic in the fall to get a jump over spring-planted garlic.
• Dig sweet potatoes and cure them for 1-2 weeks in a warm location, then store them for winter.
• Harvest and roast peanuts.
• Harvest apples and pears. Store for winter use.
• Store winter squash and pumpkins in a cool, dry place.
• Till garden soil to help control insects and diseases next spring.
• Make notes of successes and failures.
• Test soil and make improvements.
HOUSEPLANTS
• Begin long night treatments for poinsettia re-blooming.
• Check plants for insects and treat them as needed.
• Wash dust from leaves by placing them in a shower or wiping with a damp, soft cloth.
• Reduce or stop fertilization over the winter months.
• Keep plants away from hot and cold drafts of winter.
MISCELLANEOUS
• Drain and store garden hoses and sprinklers for winter.
• Spruce up the compost pile for winter by adding new materials promoting decomposition.
• Clean, sharpen, and oil garden tools for winter storage.
MY GARDEN (Use this space to list additional tasks to accomplish in your garden.)
Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.
ANNUAL DIG CONFERENCE
OCTOBER 17
Kansas City Expo Center 11730 NW Ambassador Dr, KCMO 64153
Join us at DIG, the only green industry conference in the Midwest designed to help you Discover new skills, Investigate the latest innovations, and Grow your business.
The expansive topic list covers water, soil, plant and tree, presented by skilled speakers that are experts in their field.
For a complete list of topics and speakers, conference details, and to register, go to MOGIA.org, or scan the QR code below.
Hotlines for Gardeners
Extension Master Gardeners are ready to answer your gardening questions.
