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TJournal entry: social
here are plenty of advantages to working from home. Of course there are the obvious ones like no commute, fewer expenses, and better work-life balance. Among them all, my favorite is flexibility. In the early days of having an in-home office, I was present when raising kids. That meant I was home when they were home. I made myself available, and was committed to never having to say, “I’m too busy.” That connection with them was immensely important.
As our children grew up and out, my flexibility shifted from family to more personal interests, namely gardening. I now had the flexibility to spend an hour or two in the landscape, on any workday of my choosing and at any time of my choosing. To be honest, it takes self-discipline to manage such freedom, and there were times when the balance was askew. My point is that I made the choice of when to work and when to garden. That flexibility has served me well.
With my needs being met at home—work and play—the only reason to leave the house was to shop for groceries, go to the bank or post office, or attend church. It was great. Email and texting kept me connected. No other interactions required. Or so I thought.
Then I came to realize that there was an important element missing from my daily routine. Where were my social connections? Other than the occasional visit with the neighbors, or a few minutes with the bank teller, what other human be-
ings did I associate with? Because I have tendencies to isolate, I had to course correct. The flexibility to stay at home and in the office became the cinder block around my ankle. It became the hindrance to socialization.
Fast forward to recent weeks when we were invited to the Johnson County 2024 Extension Council Annual Meeting. Held at the Extension office in Olathe, we had to be there before 6 p.m. It was a dark, rainy, windy Monday night, in five o’clock traffic, and all I could see was the endless line of red break lights ahead. Under normal circumstances I’m not a nervous nellie behind the wheel. Under normal circumstances I wouldn’t drive under these conditions. Nonetheless, we got there safe and sound. As Mr. Gardener and I walked across the parking lot, we said to each other, “We gotta get out more.” Oh, the reason we were invited…. To highlight The Kansas City Gardener as the Business of the Year. “We know firsthand the impact your publication makes with our community. Your support and belief in Extension programming and resources is why it is an honor to highlight your publication as the Business of the year!” To all of our friends at Extension, we are humbled by your recognition, and blessed to have the opportunity to serve our community in this way.
What a pleasure to spend time with like-minded folks, whose biggest mission is to lift people up.
I had the same impression when
receiving an award from MU Extension just a few weeks earlier. “I am thrilled to share that you and Michael were chosen as the well-deserved recipients of the Missouri Agriculture Extension Program (MAEP) Ag Leadership Award! Thank you so much for supporting horticulture so well for so many years.”
Recognition for the impact of our work is quite an honor and worthy of sharing with you. For without your loyal support, dear reader, where would we be? Who would support our advertisers with local dollars for their products and services? Who would learn the valuable knowledge and expertise shared by those who contribute articles?
So I shout THANK YOU to each of you, with much admiration and gratitude.
May you carry the joy of this season close to your heart and share it often with those you love. May peace and joy be with you today and always.
I’ll see you in the garden!
WINTER WATERING
Question: If the weather is reaching freezing temperatures, does that mean I don’t have to water my landscape until the spring, even when it’s dry out?
Markis’ Answer: The answer here in the Kansas City area is no. Even though the temperatures are reaching below-freezing at night, during the day, temperatures can easily reach the low 50s for weeks. The weather is so variable in this area that keeping the hose handy during the winter can benefit your landscape plants. When there isn’t snow or rain for at least two weeks, watering any newly planted trees or newly seeded lawns will help these plants get through tough winter drought.
There are plenty of plants that you should water during times of winter drought. Young trees you planted in the fall still need an extensive root system. Providing them with a drink every so often will ensure their survival until the next growing season.
Another group of plants that will need water during the winter are evergreen plants. Whether woody trees and shrubs or nonwoody perennials, please give them a good soaking when they start turning grey in color. Did you plant any spring-blooming bulbs? Watering them in the winter will help them with their cold treatment. Good, effective cold treatments require even moisture so that winter watering can increase the boom quality of spring flowering bulbs.
POINSETTIA CARE AFTER THE HOLIDAYS
Question: I was gifted a poinsettia for the holiday season. It looked beautiful when I first got it, and I want to keep it looking good. How do I take care of it?
Markis’ Answer: Poinsettias are an extremely popular holiday plant here and worldwide. They come in a wide array of colors and forms, and how you care for them
Ask the Experts
really depends on the indoor spot where you plant them.
The biggest mistake you can make is placing these plants in complete darkness. Just because there is a fluorescent office light above it does not mean it is getting enough light. These plants sold in stores are grown from the sun, and that light intensity is exponentially higher than any light that happens indoors. Due to the high intensity, the leaves have grown to handle that amount of light. Without this
intensity, leaves will start to fall off starting at the bottom. To someone who takes care of lots of plants, it would look like a lack of water when, in fact, it is a lack of light. Placing your plant near a window will be the best place to keep the color of your poinsettia; however, leaves can be damaged by touching cold windows.
Another thing to be mindful of is that many poinsettias are sold with the pots wrapped in decorative plastic. This plastic has the po-
Anthony and Markis are the horticulture agents for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension, each specializing in edible crops and ornamentals, respectively. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000. Care for your poinsettia depends on the placement indoors.
tential to hold water that runs out of the pot. When watering your plant, you mustn’t leave the pot in standing water for long periods of time.
The color of these flowers is actually from the bracts and not the flowers. If you manage to keep your plant alive until spring, you will begin to notice the new leaves coming out green with no flashy color. This is normal. The bracts only turn color when the photoperiod is around 12 hours or less.
ANTHONY REARDON | Horticulture Agents | MARKIS HILL
Question: I am a composting fiend and love being able to repurpose all my organic waste back into my garden. I’ve heard there are some organic items I shouldn’t be including in my compost though. Can you elaborate on this?
Anthony’s Answer: While it is true that any form of organic matter (once living and containing carbon) can technically be composted, it isn’t usually recommended to use all forms of organic matter in backyard composting operations, for a plethora of reasons.
At a basic level, pulled weeds and spent plants can be excellent compost incorporations. However, this is with the caveat that the weeds have not gone to seed, and none of the plants are infested with pests or disease. It is important to remember when incorporating these items, while the purpose of composting is the breaking down of material and their resultant “sterilization,” achieving fully composted material is actually very difficult. More likely, your compost will be broken down enough for reincorporation, with bits and pieces of the source material remaining. Unfortunately, this factor then opens the window for any pests introduced to the compost to be allowed to persist. As the compost is then reintroduced to gardens and spread throughout them, so too are the pest issues.
Looking at other organic matter such as meats, bones, and oils, these substances are avoided in backyard operations for two primary reasons: wildlife pressure and smell. Coyotes, racoons, rats, mice, snakes, and more will flock to these sources at their scent, becoming a health and safety hazard for humans and pets, while simultaneously likely damaging compost operations. Fauna aside, these materials are more prone to rotting and molding as they are broken down by microorganisms, leading to an undesirable putrid smell for a backyard operation.
USING MANURE IN VEGETABLE GARDEN
Question: Before the ground fully freezes, I am hoping to incorporate a manure amendment into my vegetable garden soil to let it break down over the winter. It is raw manure and not composted. Is this okay?
Anthony’s Answer: Raw manure is not typically utilized in gar-
dening operations for two reasons. First, it poses a contamination risk due to potential pathogens that are likely present, such as E. Coli and Salmonella. Second, it can introduce excess nitrogen to the soil which can be toxic to plants if not allowed to incorporate first. This said, fall is the ideal time for this type of soil amendment incorporation, as the timeframe between growing seasons allows for ample incorporation before soil exposure to plants.
Doing so now, in December, this incorporation can still be successful given weather conditions cooperate with you, but this can be a gamble. There is a probability the manure will freeze in place delaying the incorporation process and the dieoff of pathogens. If raw manure is still present when the ground begins thawing, it is recommended a full 120 day waiting period is observed before having any form of a harvestable crop exposed to the soil, purely for the reason of avoiding pathogen exposure. So, you can take the gamble and potentially need to delay your 2025 vegetable garden, or play it safe and incorporate composted manure instead. Remember, while raw manure and composted manure have the same ultimate effect on soil, their incorporation processes and requirements are very different.
WINTER WILDLIFE CONCERN
Question: I always get concerned with my local wildlife over the winter, but I also know better than to draw them all to my yard for a snack (the deer have taught me). What can I do to help the local animals get through the cold months?
Anthony’s Answer: It is important to remember that, in the Kansas City area, wildlife likely already have all the access to water and food they need without supplemental help. While it is noble to want to assist them in getting through the harsher winter months, too much assistance can make them build a reliance upon you which can be detrimental to their survival. Nevertheless, some practices can be beneficial. These include places to shelter in brush piles or native plant stands, leaves left in place to support the microorganisms animals feed on, and feeders placed with “specificity” so to not draw wildlife too close to your garden, but still offer a snack.
Kids Ask Dr. Bug about the curious things found in the garden
Ever thought of an insect pet? Keeping an insect as a pet might sound a little wild, but it can be a fun and fascinating experience! From the calm, slow movements of stick insects to the quirky “hiss” of a Madagascar cockroach, insects have their own personalities and habits. Here are some insects you can keep as pets and tips on how to care for your six-legged friends!
What are the best insects to keep as pets?
Some great insect pets for beginners are walkingsticks, beetles, and mantises. They’re easy to care for, interesting to watch, and each one has unique habits. You could try an ant farm where you’ll see ants tunneling and working together every day. Some keepers even start a backyard beehive (with help from adults!).
Here are some types of beetles that are fun and easy to care for:
Hercules Beetle: Known for their large size and horns, these beetles look like mini dinosaurs! They’re pretty chill and like to burrow, so be sure to add a layer of dirt or coconut fiber.
Flower Beetles: With colors that pop, like greens and blues, flower beetles are lively and love a fruity diet. A terrarium with plants is their perfect home.
Blue Death Feigning Beetle: These beetles are blue, they love the desert, and they “play dead” if they get concerned. Other beetles: stag and darkling Non-insects: jumping spiders, tarantulas, snails
What should I feed my pet insect? How can I tell if it’s healthy?
Each type of insect has its own menu. While some enjoy leaves, others prefer fruit, veggies, or even
smaller insects. Some insects require leaves from specific plants. Before bringing an insect home, be sure to check what they need to eat and where to find it. For captivebred insects, it’s safest to get their food from pet stores or raise your own feeder bugs to keep them disease-free.
Healthy insects are usually active, munching away and looking strong. If they stop moving much, change color, or you see mold in their tank, they might need some help.
Where should they live?
Insects come from different places, so their needs can be specific. Learn about your insects’ native habitat and try to mimic that. Think about the temperature, humidity, and light. Add some plants, twigs, or leaves to make it feel like home. Most insects don’t need direct sunlight, but they do need a regular day-night cycle. A desk lamp may work fine for indoor critters, but avoid direct sunlight, which can make their habitat too hot.
Can I hold my pet bug?
Some insects are okay with gentle handling—like walkingsticks and some mantises—but others are too delicate for holding. Always be careful and make sure to research if handling is safe for your pet’s spe-
cies. If you’re unsure, it’s best to watch from a distance.
Can I keep different bugs together?
Sometimes, yes, but not all insects enjoy company, and some might even see each other as food. For example, you might be able to keep different types of walkingsticks together, but putting a mantis in the same tank would be risky! Always check if different bugs can live safely together before mixing them.
You can also add soil critters like springtails and roly polys. They’ll help clean up by eating organic waste and keeping your tank tidy.
Can I catch a bug from my yard?
While finding cool insects outside is exciting, for a long-term pet it’s usually better to buy a captive-bred insect from a pet store or breeder. Wild insects could have diseases, or they could be important to the local ecosystem. If you do decide to catch an insect from your yard, just observe it and release it soon afterward.
Is it okay to release my pet bug into the wild?
It is not a good idea to release captive-bred insects into the wild. They might not survive and they
could harm local ecosystems. If you can’t take care of your insect pet anymore, see if a science lab, club, or local school might want to adopt it.
Are insects easier pets than dogs or cats?
Insects need less space, food, and attention than bigger pets, so they can be simpler to take care of. However, you won’t get the same cuddly companionship that a dog or cat provides. Instead, insects are all about observing and learning— perfect for anyone curious about nature and science!
Careers that work with insects?
If you love insects, there are cool jobs out there for you! Entomologists, who study insects, work in areas like agriculture (such as MU Extension), conservation, and even health. You could also explore hobbies like butterfly-raising, insect photography, or joining projects like butterfly, dragonfly, or ladybug counts.
Want to learn more?
MU Extension’s Bugs N Garden channel videos and K-State’s BugZoo Agriculture are also great places to start. The St. Louis Zoo has an amazing insect house, and the Springfield Botanical Garden has a native butterfly house. Keeping an insect as a pet is fun, educational, and easy to do with a bit of planning. Remember to be gentle, do your research, and always think about what’s best for your bug buddy!
~~~~
Check out the Kids Ask Dr. Bug video series: https://bit.ly/KADBvideos. Questions for Dr. Bug? Send them to https:// bit.ly/KidsAskDrBug. Please include your name and age. To help me learn what you learn from this column, consider filling out this survey: https://bit.ly/ KidsAskDrBugSurvey.
Dr. Tamra Reall (@MUExtBugN Garden) is the horticulture specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For free, research-based gardening tips, call 816-833-TREE (8733), email mggkc.hotline@gmail.com, or visit www.extension.missouri.edu.
TAMRA REALL Horticulture Specialist
Consider a jumping spider pet!
Image: Ronny Overhate from Pixabay
Safety First for Backyard Birds
Winter is upon us once again. Our feathered friends congregate in our gardens in search of water, shelter, and some tasty bird seed to supplement their diet of wild seeds, fruits, and insects (gleaned from tree bark and those leaves you wisely left on the ground).
Winter mortality rates vary widely year to year, depending on weather conditions and the health of individual birds recovering from arduous nesting and migration seasons. Recent research suggests that enduring hotter, drier summers may ultimately decrease winter survival. Birds emerge in poorer body condition and plants needed for winter food may not thrive. Increased variability of winter weather (shorter, intense cold spells alternating frequently with abnormal warmth) severely challenges a bird’s natural adaptability. Feathers and fat added in anticipation of cold temperatures can’t be shed overnight to deal with stressful heat. Warmer average winter temperatures also enable parasites and disease organisms to persist virtually year-round.
Here are a few tips to help safeguard your backyard birds from disease, predators, cold, and dehydration this winter.
Keep an Eye on Their Eyes
Birds gather in dense flocks at feeders, allowing germs to spread quickly. Watch for birds with swollen, weepy or crusty eyes—victims of “House Finch Conjunctivitis” (AKA “House Finch Eye Disease”). Despite the name, birds such as goldfinches, Pine Siskins, and doves can also be affected. This mycoplasma infection isn’t immediately fatal, but partially blinded birds succumb quickly to predators and starvation. Rehabbing is not recommended, as recovered birds can be lifelong carriers and suffer future relapses. Infection spreads via physical contact between birds, or eye secretions on surfaces. To manage an outbreak, the
best course of action is to suspend feeding for at least two weeks to allow sick birds to disperse. Empty your feeders, discarding seed and removing caked debris. Scrub feeders with dish soap, rinse well, then soak for at least 20 minutes in bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) to disinfect. Air dry feeders thoroughly (in sun if possible) before refilling. If sick birds return after your feeding hiatus, scientists recommend removing feeders with large ports to decrease contact between birds’ faces and feeder surfaces, and repeating feeder disinfection every 1-2 weeks until no more sick birds are seen. Removing seed hulls under feeders periodically also promotes cleanliness.
HFED was first recognized in 1994, after House Finches thoroughly colonized the eastern U.S. Research is ongoing and disease incidence is monitored via citizen science reports to Project FeederWatch. Unfortunately, studies from 2018 concluded that current mycoplasma strains are becoming more virulent and harmful to birds. Responsible feeding is more important than ever. Don’t forget to protect yourself too—wash up after handling feeders.
Don’t discard fallen branches, sticks and garden cuttings—turn them into excellent wildlife shelters. Brush piles not only benefit birds, but also small mammals (even certain bats), reptiles, and overwintering insects.
Place several large branches on the ground as a foundation for the pile. Add layers of smaller branches in a criss-cross pattern to create generous spaces for animals to hide within. Outer layers of coniferous material (such as boughs from Christmas trees and wreaths) provides insulation from wind and snow. Add new material continuously as older material deteriorates, enriching the soil. Plant vines such as Ameri-
is scarce in winter. If you can’t afford a heated birdbath, consider providing a small heated pet bowl instead. Some concrete (not plastic or ceramic) bird bath basins can accommodate immersion heaters designed for livestock water buckets, but these must be continuously submerged.
Recently someone asked a challenging question: how could they provide winter water for birds without outside electricity? Use “solar power” by placing your water receptacle in the sunniest location available. Dark-colored containers allow increased heat absorption. (Light-colored containers can be lined with dark plastic or rubber material, or dark-colored stones.)
can Bittersweet, Virginia Creeper, wild grape, or native honeysuckles to beautify your brush pile and provide food for birds and pollinators as they cover the structure. Flat rocks stacked nearby provide basking areas for butterflies and reptiles. Remember to keep brush piles away from houses and outbuildings so inhabitants won’t move indoors with you!
Water is Wonderful
Water (for drinking and bathing) is vital for birds’ health, but
Corks or ping-pong balls floating in the water may slow freezing. As a last resort, replace frozen water once or twice daily, preferably in the early morning and late afternoon when birds are actively feeding. Intermittent access to water is better than none at all, and birds will quickly learn to exploit this resource.
On behalf of BAS, I wish everyone a happy, healthy holiday season and a very “birdy” New Year. Thank you for reading this column, and for helping birds thrive!
Elizabeth Stoakes is currently President of Burroughs Audubon Society in Kansas City and has been birding for over 25 years. Please contact BAS via mail@burroughs.org or text/call 816-795-8177 with any birding questions.
ELIZABETH STOAKES
Birding Enthusiast
Junco in a brush pile
House Finch with eye disease
Brush Piles Are Beautiful
Photo credit: Project FeederWatch.
Photo credit: Steven Kress, National Audubon Society.
PLANTS ON YOUR PLATE Cranberries
Cranberries…that tiny red fruit that makes an appearance around the holiday but is mostly absent the rest of the year. This tart but tasty fruit often appears in the form of a quivering gelled mass or perhaps chopped into a salad with apples or oranges. However, they are much more versatile than given credit.
Native Americans enjoyed wild cranberries for thousands of years before colonization. The first documented reference to the American cranberry was in the mid 1500s, when the Wampanoag People introduced the red berry to colonists in New England as both a food source and as a dye. A mixture called pemmican, made of ground berries, dried meat, and animal fat, was a common form of nourishment for months at a time. Tribal medicine men also used cranberries in traditional healing rituals to fight fever, swelling, and even seasickness.
The cranberry belongs to the Ericaceae family of flowering plants. Cranberries are botanically related to bilberries, blueberries, and huckleberries, though differ by their woody stems. This low-growing, woody perennial shrub grows horizontal runners along the soil surface to form a dense mat. Contrary to common belief, cranberries do not grow in water, but in sandy bogs and marshes that are flooded with water to aid in harvesting. Because the cranberry contains a
pocket of air, when the marsh is flooded, the berries float to the surface to be picked up by harvesting equipment. Cranberries were first cultivated in the New England region in the 1800s and continues to be a staple crop in Maine and Massachusetts. Wisconsin, however, has surpassed the northeast region and now produces more than 50% of the nation’s cranberries.
Cranberries are a rich source of antioxidants vitamins C, E, and vitamin K, which is essential for blood clotting, as well as the minerals manganese and copper. Cranberries are also rich in a type of phytonutrient called polyphenols, which are beneficial in controlling inflammation and free radicals in the body that contribute to chronic health conditions. Drinking cranberry juice is often associated with urinary tract health, because of another phytonutrient, A-type proanthocyanidins (PAC’s). PAC’s have been shown to be beneficial to the prevention (not treatment) of urinary tract infections by inhibiting the growth of bacteria in the urinary tract. Consuming more isn’t better, however, because cranberries are also high in oxalates, a contributor to kidney stones. Always consult your health care provider if experiencing symptoms of either of these conditions.
Cranberries are readily available during the fall and winter holiday season, but rather scarce the rest of
DENISE SULLIVAN Nutrition Ninja
the year, so I like to buy an extra bag or two to store in the freezer. While cranberry juice is readily available, it is usually sweetened or mixed with other fruit juices. One hundred percent cranberry juice is available as well…but be prepared to pucker up! I often add a bit of cranberry juice to iced tea or even water as a flavor enhancer. Dried cranberries are also available in various stages of sweetness and can make a tasty addition to quick breads, salads, or other holiday dishes.
One of my favorite flavor combinations to blend with cranberries is oranges. The quick bread recipe below can make a tasty addition to your holiday brunch.
Message to readers
This month’s writing is almost as ‘bittersweet’ as the topic. As I fully embrace retirement, this is my final installment of Plants on Your Plate. I have enjoyed sharing my culinary love of fruits and vegetables over the last 5 years and I hope that I have inspired you to try some new garden goodies along the way. There is good news though…you will continue to receive nutrition and wellness inspiration with a garden theme from MU Extension! The MU Extension Urban West Nutrition & Health team made up of Melissa Cotton, Tracy Graybill, Elizabeth McGinley, and Sidney Patrick will share the writing of an exciting new column that will keep you healthy in the garden.
I wish you a plentiful harvest of health in 2025 and beyond!
Cranberry Nut Bread (or muffins)
MAKES 12 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS
1 cup all purpose flour
1 cup white whole wheat flour
2/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1 large orange to produce
2 teaspoons fresh grated orange peel
3/4 cup orange juice
1 tablespoon orange liqueur (optional)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 tablespoons butter (1/4 cup), melted
DIRECTIONS
1 egg
1 cup chopped cranberries
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
Optional glaze
1/3 cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon orange juice
• Wash hands with soap and water. Preheat oven to 350°F.
• Mix flour, sugar, baking powder and baking soda in a large bowl.
• Wash orange; grate orange peel; then squeeze juice from orange. Add additional orange juice to make 3/4 cup.
• In a separate bowl, blend orange juice, orange liqueur, vanilla, melted butter, egg, and grated orange peel; add to flour mixture, stirring until just blended. Gently fold in cranberries and walnuts.
• Divide batter among 12 paper lined muffin pans.
• Bake for 15-20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
• Cool in pan for 5 minutes; then remove and cool completely on wire rack.
Optional: to make glaze, mix powdered sugar and orange juice, adding additional juice as needed to make thin glaze. Drizzle over cooled muffins.
Recipe adapted from MyPlate Kitchen, analyzed by verywellfit.com
Denise Sullivan is a retired Nutrition and Health Education Specialist, with 38 years of experience in the Missouri, Kansas, and Texas Cooperative Extension Systems.
Whether you need a beautiful poinsettia, winter porch decorations, or unique gifts such as amaryllis bulbs or custom gardener’s gift baskets, we’re here to help!
~ An Arnold’s Gift Card is always a great gift ~ Holiday Hanging Basket Class: Dec. 7 at 10 a.m. Winter Porch Pot Class: Dec. 14 at 10 a.m.
Please see our facebook page or call for class details.
info@arnoldsgreenhouse.com
Sun. 1 - 5 pm, subject to change in winter. * CLOSED Dec. 24 & 25 *
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Shrub Removal No shrub too big or too small TIMOTHY MAGILL (The Shrub Removal Guy) Call/Text: 913-620-1092
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Celebrating our Native Fall Fruits
Fall is turning to winter. For some, it is a time to get away and find warmer climes away from the frigidity, ice, and sometimes miserable aspects of this midwestern season. For me, it can be a time to lean into the season, plant trees, enjoy the cloudy days and the starry silent nights, and reflect upon the growing season passing and the ones yet to come. I think this is the way many of us gardeners, who have become native to this place, think. We reflect on the challenges: a warm late winter, a deep hard freeze on March 27th, hail, a super dry summer going into fall; and celebrate the victories: great Asian pear harvests in urban microclimates, large, sweet potatoes, abundant peppers, a long season for fall veggies, and an abundance of pawpaw and persimmons. It is the latter that is native to this place, and as we celebrate family and holidays, let’s celebrate these food plants that give us our sense of place.
Pawpaw
Pawpaw, Asimina triloba, 1020’ tall and wide. For those of you on the Kansas side, they are the Kansas banana, for Missouri, the Missouri banana, and the State Fruit Tree as of 2019. Regardless, this is a fruit that is very native to this place, as we are on the western edge of its native range. Its flavor is akin to a banana, the texture is smooth like custard, and the fruits can weigh up to one pound but can contain 10 to 20 dime-sized seeds. The fruit does not have much of a shelf life, and the fresh pulp should be used or frozen/processed shortly after harvest. Pawpaw makes great ice cream, cheesecake, bread, beer, and even pawpaw sausage. Pawpaw trees form colonies, one seedling
tree turning into a thicket or grove of all the same plant, think Aspens. You can find these stunning native stands along north-facing slopes and cooler forested areas—Maple Woods Natural Area, Hidden Valley Natural Area, Parkville Nature Sanctuary, areas near the Blue River in Swope Park, and the nature trail at the Overland Park Arboretum are just a few of the places. For pawpaw trees to produce fruits in their native stands, they need a genetically diverse partner (that is not from the identical stand). This is why in small native stands of pawpaw, you may never find a single fruit; however, in areas with multiple stands of distinct genetics, the fruits will be abundant. As a bonus, the foliage of the genus Asimina serves as the only food source for the zebra swallowtail butterfly larvae (caterpillars).
If you decide to plant pawpaw trees here are some things to consider:
Young trees prefer protection from wind and full sun. Their big oval, tropical-esque leaves burn and rip easily. If you do plant them in full sun, consider creating a shade canopy or protection for the first couple of years. Pawpaw need two to tango, so either get two distinct seedlings or two distinct varieties to ensure pollination. Over the past 40 years there has been a renewed and concentrated interest in breeding new varieties of pawpaw, and here are some that are worthy of consideration:
• Shenandoah—a variety that has come out of the Peterson breeding program started in the late 1980s from historic collections. Seed weight to
fruit is 6%
• Susquehanna—another variety from Peterson with a 3% seed weight. Fruits can weigh up to one pound
• Prolific—a Michigan selection from the 1980s
• Sunflower—a Southeast Kansas Selection from the early 1970s
Persimmon
Persimmon, Diospyros virginiana, as a tree can seem unassuming and almost underwhelming compared to the en masse display of large tropical foliage in summer and fall of the pawpaw. Yes, mature persimmon trees have that unmistakable, deeply furrowed, alligator skin bark, and fall color can be a striking orange to yellow, but sometimes they just look, well, like a tree. Our native persimmons are also dioicous, meaning they have either female or male flowers. Male trees tend to form small colonies on the edge of fields and dry woods, while a lone female tree will be striking when covered with bright orange fruits in late October. Like pawpaw fruits, persimmons are very fleeting and short-lived. A ripe persimmon is very soft and, depending upon the tree or cultivar, can range from 1-4” in diameter. These soft fruits do not transport well, and therefore, we do not see them in the marketplace. Another challenge with the American persimmons is astringency, the puckering, cottonmouth-dryness that the not fully ripe fruit can present. This astringency is mostly lost once the fruit ripens, but care must be taken, especially when cooking the American persimmon, as heat can amplify that quality (use baking soda to solve this). I enjoy persimmons
fresh and dehydrated; they have a flavor similar to apricots. They can also be used to make wine and used in cakes, breads, and cookies.
American persimmon breeding is relatively (as of the late 19th century) new, as most fruit breeders have focused on the larger Japanese (Diospyros kaki) cultivars, cultivars we cannot grow in our zone 6 climate.
If you decide to plant American persimmon as a food plant take into account:
Choose a well-drained site with full sun. Most cultivars will get 25-30’ tall. Many cultivars are self-fertile or partially self-fertile, so 2 trees are not necessary. Do not plant them over a roof, driveway, or sidewalk, the fruit will drop and make a mess, and raccoons, deer, squirrels, and opossums will get drunk off the fermented pulp. Here are some varieties worth planting:
• Early Golden—The first named cultivar of American persimmon dating from the late 19th century, from which many other cultivars have been bred. The tree has male and female flowers. Fruits ripen in late August
• Prok—Self-fertile. Large 3” fruits ripen in September
• Meader—Self-fertile. 2-3” fruits ripen in September
• Nikita’s Gift—Self-fertile hybrid of D. kaki and D. virginiana. Fruits are large, 3-4” and calyx. Does not have to separate for fruit to be considered ripe
If you haven’t done so already, make room in your life, and in your yard for these wonderful native fruit plants.
MATT BUNCH | The Giving Grove | SARAH SIKICH
Matt Bunch is The Giving Grove program director for Kansas City Community Gardens and Horticulturist for The Giving Grove’s national network. Contributing to this piece is Sarah Sikich, Marketing & Communications Manager for The Giving Grove. For more information about Kansas City’s Giving Grove program, visit www.kccg.org/giving-grove.
by Matt Bunch.
ABOVE: Pawpaw tree full of lush tropical foliage and large fruit BELOW: Ripe fruit of American Persimmon
ABOVE: Persimmon tree BELOW: Persimmon fruit dehydrated
Photos
Rose Report
still time to winterize, learn terms like bare root, and do-it-yourself grafting
Now that our roses have been protected for the winter, we can curl up in front of the fireplace with our favorite coffee drink or hot chocolate and dream about new roses to add to the garden next spring. Hopefully, the roses were watered well before covering, and remember they will need about one inch of moisture each month during the winter months. So, drag out the hoses on a warm day and water the roses if there is not sufficient moisture. Note, about 10 inches of snow equals one inch of moisture. The roses should have been covered with 8 to 12 inches of organic mulch after several hard freezes. Winter protection for cold hardy roses is not needed as much as for grafted roses. If mulching has not been done, there is still time to complete this task.
While looking at the catalogues, you may see terms that may not be familiar. The term “bare root” is easy to understand. These roses are shipped without soil and are to be planted directly in the ground in March or April. Or, they may be grown for a season in a pot, and then planted in the ground. The term “potted” simply means that the rose is shipped in a pot. If it is a three inch pot, also called a “band”, the rose will need to be grown in a large pot for a season before planting into the ground. If the pot is one gallon or larger, the rose can be grown in a large pot for a season or planted directly into the ground.
Many roses we can buy online or at a local nursery are “grafted”. These plants are propagated by grafting the desirable rose variety onto a strong root stock. The pro-
GLENN HODGES Master Rosarian
cess was discussed in the January 2024 issue of The Kansas City Gardener (available at kcgmag.com, under Magazine Archives page). In contrast, there are “own root” roses available. These roses are propagated by taking a cutting from a bush of the desired variety. The process for doing this at home is as follows: A cutting with at least four leaves is selected. The two bottom leaves are removed, Fig. 1. A small injury is made with a finger nail just below where the two leaves were removed. After dipping in rooting compound, the cutting is placed into a pot containing potting media and watered well. After the excess water has drained, the pot containing the cutting is placed in a resealable bag, Fig. 2. The bag is placed in indirect light. There should be no moisture on the inside of the bag
during the day, but there should be moisture condensed on the inside of the bag at night. It usually takes 4 to 8 weeks for the cutting to root. This is marked by the growth of new leaves. A month or two later, the first blooms will appear, Fig. 3. After the plant is grown in a pot for a season, it is ready to be planted in the garden. I do not recommend propagating patented roses because of potential legal issues. Plant patents are good for 20 years from the date of filing for a patent.
More information about winter care of the rose garden and planting bare root or potted roses can be found at kansascityrosesociety.org/ rose care. Ask-a-Rosarian hotline is always available at RoseHelp@ kcrosesociety.org, where we answer your questions about rose care and culture, and more.
Glenn is an Extension Master Gardener in Johnson County, KS, an American Rose Society (ARS) Master Rosarian, and an ARS Accredited Horticulture Judge. He has been growing roses in Lenexa, KS since 1974 and successfully exhibiting roses since 1998.
Fig. 1. A cutting of ‘Hot Tamale’ ready to be potted.
Fig. 2. ‘Hot Tamale’ in its own mist tent.
Fig. 3. First bloom four months after ‘Hot Tamale’ was started.
Photos by Glenn Hodges.
Gardener trades perennials for peanuts in Eastern Kansas
Editor’s note: Did you know that growing peanuts in the Midwest is possible? When in my early gardening days in Florida, I thought this was a ‘southern thing’ where conditions were ideal. After chatting with Jeffrey James in De Soto, Kansas, a few weeks back, he taught me that it’s the number of heat days that make a difference. Realizing that I’m probably not the only gardener learning about this for the first time, we asked James to answer a few questions about how he grows peanuts in his garden.
How did your interest in growing peanuts begin?
I grew up on a farm in North Carolina where we raised about 100 acres of peanuts. It was always a busy time of year with harvesting. There were many late nights and early mornings tending to the crop until harvest. The entire county smelled like peanuts during harvest season. What a marvelous memory of younger days.
Growing peanuts in Kansas began as an effort to downsize my garden for plants that didn’t take a
lot of effort. A brief conversation with my brother led to 50 pounds of seed peanuts at my door, and the rest, as they say, is history.
Soil requirements?
Peanuts prefer a well drained light sandy loam soil. Not exactly the Kansas types but they produced extremely well in the heavier clays found here. Soil compaction is the key being this is a root crop and needs to easily penetrate the soil when forming the beans under the soil. High organic material is not necessary. Can be grown in raised beds or buckets.
When do you plant?
Planting time is mid April to mid May when soil temperature is between 68° and 95°F. Planting after June 1 will limit their ability to mature.
How do you plant?
I plant 36-inch furrows; 24-inch if you are using the bunch peanut variety. I never plant flat in the ground due to soil drainage. Peanuts cannot tolerate being flooded or over watered. Planting on furrows eliminates that issue. Sow peanuts 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Uncooked raw peanuts (whole) can be used for seeds. However, the germination rate may be in the 50% range. It’s best to use seed peanuts that are coated with insecticide to prevent disease and rot before germination.
How to care for the plants?
Peanuts are a “leave it and forget it” crop. Weed at least once a week to prevent weed pressure. Balanced 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 fertilizer application at the time of planting. Peanuts do require an application of gypsum usually in mid to late June when the flowers start to develop. If using pelletized gypsum, apply in the fall or winter before planting to allow breakdown in the soil and have activated calcium for plant development.
Water requirements?
One inch of water weekly will
provide adequate moisture. I use drip irrigation early in the morning to prevent leaf rot and blue mold from forming.
Any disease problems?
Kansas has moderate to no pest problem with peanuts. Since it is a hobby crop in this area, the normal pathogens are not present to cause care issues.
How many days to mature?
Peanuts need 130 to 160 heat days. They can be left in the ground until the first frost. Longer growing time does not negatively affect the yield.
When do you harvest?
Depending if you want green peanuts or dry for roasting, determine when to harvest. Green peanuts are not as mature and can generally be harvested starting the second or third week in September. Leaving until mid October is best for roasting peanuts.
Have you been surprised by your success?
I was extremely surprised by the yields. In 600 feet of plants, the yield was approximately 140 pounds. The spring was wet and cold. I planted May 20. The hot summer proved remarkably beneficial for growth and yield development.
Favorite way to eat?
Normally I oven roast until slightly beige. Salt brine is also a favorite but this methods requires more processing to achieve good results.
Plans for next year?
Next year is going to be exciting. Will offer seed peanuts for sale to other growers that might be interested. Start a Facebook page (thekcpeanutman@gmail.com) to show the entire process from beginning to end. Plan to completely convert the garden over to peanuts. It’s about 100 x 100. Depending on success, year three, we will plant 5 acres for local sell as green peanuts.
Jeffrey James in his De Soto, Kansas garden.
Photo by Mike Cavanaugh.
Shady Trampoline Garden: First Season
It’s been exactly one year since I seeded the trampoline garden at my house. The 225-square-foot space used to have a trampoline on it. Now it is chock full of immature native woodland plants.
If my math is correct, there are around 3,000 seedlings spaced 3.5 inches apart. That’s about 13 seedlings per square foot. There were quite a few more, because I spent the first growing season thinning the overly-successful ones, like Drummond aster and blue-stem goldenrod. When one shows up too close to a not-so-well represented species (like spreading aster, hairy mountain mint, and common milkweed), out comes the commoner. This is how to ensure the greatest species diversity. There were likely too many seeds of those species in the original seed mix.
You may recall, I collected most of the species here and there, and received many in packets from the St. Louis Wild Ones Chapter annual seed exchange. My measure was the volume of my pinch for large seed, or a half-pinch for tiny seeds. Not perfect, but it worked well enough for such a small speck of planted woodland.
More of my time was spent not editing out native seedings but pulling actual weeds like burnweed, dandelion, three-seeded mercury, yellow nutsedge, creeping spurge, and the fescue grass that was creeping in from the edges. These were easy compared to the thousands of red maple and birch seedlings that blew in from over the house and neighbor’s fence.
prevent weeds. If you did, you would suppress germination of the good stuff along with the weeds. So whatever weeds you get (you will get weeds when you have bare soil), you have to deal with them. In large seeded projects, weeds may get string-trimmed or mowed down to 6 or 8 inches, so they don’t shade out the good seedlings. But in my teeny-tiny pocket woodland, I have the luxury of hand-pulling in my tool kit.
My early morning ritual involves circling the garden in search of weeds. I never tackle all of them at once: my back is good for only 10 or 15 minutes at a time. Instead, I put steady pressure on them all season long. Now with the season nearly ended, the number of weeds is negligible.
One of the downsides of growing a woodland from seed is that you can’t use mulch to help
The plants that remain (the good stuff) include a few species of sedge, beak grass, bottlebrush grass, creek oats, pale Indian plantain, purple Joe pye, purple coneflower, Drummond aster, hairy mountain mint, spreading aster,
SCOTT WOODBURY Horticulturist
bluestem goldenrod, columbine, giant hyssop, Ohio spiderwort, golden Alexander, Bradbury beebalm, black-eyed susan, Ohio horsemint, woodland knotweed, sweet coneflower, common milkweed, and smooth beard tongue. The eastern blazing star never came up. I’ll make a note to add a few plugs in spring. I added small containers of three butterfly milkweeds, one garden phlox, and one sensitive fern, in addition to the black gum and short-leaf pine trees that will
eventually grow tall and shade the garden. One of the milkweeds supported a monarch caterpillar, which then hatched out from beneath the birdfeeder hanging nearby.
After one growing season, there is very little bare soil showing. Next spring, when the new leaves emerge, there will be even less soil showing and a near complete cover of the good stuff. At this point, the garden will have stabilized considerably, though I will still be pulling tree saplings and other weeds that
Scott Woodbury was the horticulturist at Shaw Nature Reserve for 30 years and stepped down from that position in June 2022. He continues to work on contract for Shaw Nature Reserve to carry out native landscaping education and has launched his own business called Cacalia: Native Garden Design and Wilding. Find suppliers of native seeds and plants to establish your own backyard woodland at grownative.org.
Woodland seedlings
Red maple (left) and birch (right)
Trampline woodland garden in fall
Photos by Scott Woodbury.
blow in. I’ll always be thinning out aster, goldenrod, and anything else that tries to dominate. It is a garden after all, so it will need me to ward off evil, non-nativehoneysuckle and tree saplings.
Lastly, I should mention that, because the seedlings are so close together (some would say too close together), they are getting established much more quickly than normal. The seedlings are aggressively competing with each other for light and soil nutrients, not unlike they do in nature.
Because they bump into each other so early in the establishment phase, their mature size will be stunted, not by nature’s standard, but by a gardener’s standard. That’s the only way that 3,000 seedlings can survive in an area so small— that, and me keeping an eye on things. Each plant has only so much available sunlight and nutrients, and so each has to struggle more than it would in a roomy garden. Each plant will produce a single flower stem, instead of a dozen or more that would develop in a conventional garden, where nutrients, sunlight, and space are aplenty. This season produced multiple
single stems of Joe pye, woodland knotweed, and a pair of black-eyed Susans.
I don’t think this garden will ever be a gaudy display of color. That is definitely to my liking, as I am more interested in the ethereal qualities that come with overstuffed, diverse, grassy, seeded landscapes. Many seedlings will surely thin out naturally, or by my hand in the coming years. Change is inevitable. But the trampoline garden will also spread outward, and begin to consume the lawn, around it. And I think I will let it.
Though it has been a lot of work in the first year and will still take time in the years to come, this little woodland garden is well on its way to holding its own. It is quickly reaching the point of stability, where the good stuff covers every square inch of soil, and where I begin to enjoy its diversity and ethereal qualities. It already mesmerizes me with its varied textures and the tiny visitors that show up, like a gift on a cloudy day. I am pleased with this garden—this mini-woodland— and I plan to do more with seeds. Why don’t you join in on the fun and establish one at your home?
As winter blankets the Midwest and the holiday season brings us together, consider a unique and lasting gift for the gardeners and nature-lovers in your life: a membership to the Friends of the Arboretum (FOTA) at the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens. It’s truly the gift that keeps on giving—a season-to-season invitation to enjoy the breathtaking landscapes and peaceful paths that make the Arboretum a treasured local sanctuary.
Your loved ones will enjoy free daily admission to the Arboretum throughout the year, watching the landscapes change from delicate spring blooms in the Emily Dickinson Garden, to the lush beauty of Monet Garden in summer, to the fiery hues along Margaret’s Pond in autumn, and finally the serene, snow-covered walkways of winter. FOTA members experience the Arboretum’s seasonal transformations again and again, with each visit a chance to reconnect with the beauty of nature.
And the magic doesn’t stop there. Your gift opens the door to a calendar of exclusive events and ticket discounts, providing an opportunity to attend special gatherings that celebrate the beauty of nature. From guided walks through blooming gardens to seasonal festivals, these events become cherished moments of connection with the environment.
Giving a membership is also a way to support FOTA’s mission to preserve and enhance these 300 acres of native prairie, woodland, and garden spaces. Your gift helps fund educational programs, conservation projects, and improvements that make the Arboretum an ever-evolving source of inspiration and a beloved community resource.
This holiday, give the gift of Overland Park’s Arboretum & Botanical Gardens—a gift that blossoms through every season. Visit opabg.org to learn how you can share the beauty of the gardens with those you love, and invite them to be part of preserving and nurturing these remarkable spaces for generations to come.
Winter Wonders: Simple Tips for Festive Outdoor Décor
This year has flown by! As we move into the winter season, I feel like it goes even faster. So much going on in town, so many details to finish up for the year. I love to finish my gardening season by decorating outside. Winter containers not only can provide a festive look for the holidays but interest in the drab months of January and February. You can go full throttle with glitter and paint or instead, something more natural.
Here are some of my favorite winter container materials:
• Birch Sticks
• Curly Willow branches
• Red Twig Dogwood branches
• Evergreens
• Pine Cones
• Dried Grass Plumes
• Berried branches
• Hedge Apples
• Spray painted branches
• Plastic ornaments
• Southern Magnolia Leaves
• Eucalyptus
• Dusty Miller
• Cool season annuals Snapdragons, Pansy, Kale
• Ivy
With winter containers, you need some height. Whether that’s with branches, small to medium evergreen trees, or evergreen branches. We have very large scale containers at the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens. Many times we have picked out some evergreen trees on clearance, sunk the pot in the larger container, and mulched it. We decorate around the pot we have sunk to hide it. In the spring we pop that evergreen out and plant it in the gardens. It suits two needs: height in the container and adding to our collection of trees.
If you don’t have birch sticks, curly willow, or red twig dogwood branches available in your garden, there are many greenhouses in town that have these available for purchase. We save ours from year to year. So, it can be an investment in the first year, but you can get some mileage out of them. I have also spray painted branches in the second year of use which helps make them a little more water resistant if they are dry or brittle. Pine cones are another item that can be reused. Just make sure they are dry before storing them in a box or plastic tub.
Winterberries are my go-to for branches with berries. They don’t last super long, but the vibrant color they provide is second to none. The birds enjoy them too! You can opt for faux, holly, juniper or incense cedar, whatever your preference is. If you are good with fake; big plastic ornaments can make a statement when clustered together. Battery operated lights also add interest and are easy.
We sometimes leave some of our summer annuals in our containers for winter interest if they still look good. Annual grasses, gomphrena, dusty miller with its pop of silver and ivy for a trailing item. I know that they may not make it through the entire winter, but really nothing to lose.
You don’t have to be an expert to create a stunning winter container. Whether you opt for a lush mix of greenery or keep it simple with just one or two elements, the key is to let your creativity shine. If you’re seeking inspiration, the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens is the perfect destination. Our team will be hard at work preparing for our most anticipated event of the year—the Luminary Walk!
Celebrating its 25th Anniversary, this beloved tradition offers three unique experiences to suit every preference. Select weekends offer the Traditional Luminary Walk, where the full spectacle comes alive—glimmering lights, glowing candles, joyful music, and even a visit from Santa himself. This year, we’re unveiling exciting new installations alongside classic favorites that have delighted guests for decades. For an elevated experience, don’t miss our Adults-Only Candlelight Stroll on Thursday nights, complete with twinkling lights, candlelit paths, live music, and festive beverages. (Sorry, Santa takes the night off for these 18+ evenings!) On other select nights through December 30, you can enjoy Electric Glow, a limited electric lights only experience, perfect for sensory needs, elderly guests, or those looking for a relaxed, crowd-free, holiday ex-
ANNE WILDEBOOR
perience. Timed-entry tickets are now available online at www.opabg.org. Don’t wait—these magical evenings sell out quickly!
Here’s to closing out 2024 with beauty, joy, and a celebration of new traditions. We can’t wait to see what 2025 will bring. Cheers!
Anne Wildeboor is long-time Horticulturist at the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens.
Horticulturist
Upcoming Garden Events
Leawood Garden Club
Tues, Jan 28, 10:30a; at Cure of Ars Catholic Church, 9401 Mission Rd, Leawood, KS 66206. Lu Tarr, Speaker and Master Gardener, MGGKC. Program: Annuals vs Perennials. Unsure of what kind of plant to invest in for your garden, containers or landscape? In this presentation, she will teach the differences between annuals and perennials and discuss what options are available.
Orchid Society of Greater Kansas City Sun, Jan 12, 1:30-4:30p; at Merriam Community Center, 6040 Slater St, Merriam, KS 66202. Nicholas Rust, Rusty Exotics, “Setting up a Grow Area with Lights.” Open to the public. More information at osgkc.org and find us on Facebook.
MoKan Daylily Society
Sat, Dec 7, 10:30a; at Asbury United Methodist Church, 5400 W 75th St, Prairie Village, KS 66208. Entrance is in the back of the church.
Raytown Garden Club
Tues, Feb 4, 10a; at Connection Point Church, 10500 E 350 Hwy, Raytown, MO 64138. We’re taking a winter break in December and January. Meetings will resume on the first Tuesday of the month Feb thru Nov. Guests are always welcome. For more information please check out our Facebook page: https://www. facebook.com/RaytownGardenClub.
TOURS | SHOWS | FESTIVALS
Luminary Walk
Select evenings from Nov 25 through Dec 30. Whether you’re in search of a family outing, a romantic evening, or a quiet escape into a winter wonderland, this event offers something for everyone. Don’t miss out on celebrating 25 years of magic while supporting the growth of the Overland Park Arboretum. Get your tickets now at opabg.org.
CLASSES | AND MORE
Gardening as We Age
Thurs, Dec 5, 11:30a; at Sunflower Room, Wyandotte County Extension Office, 1208 N 79th St, Kansas City, KS. Gardening as We Age, Presented by Kevin Nelson, Douglas County Extension Master Gardener. This presentation will provide practical information to help you stay engaged and productive in your garden for as long as you choose. You’ll see examples of how to alter your beds, your plant choices and your tools so you can still do the most with the space you have. Pre-registration is not needed. A $10 fee (cash or check)
Native Landscape Chat
Fri, Dec 6, 1p; at Anita B Gorman Conservation Discovery Center, 4750 Troost Ave, Kansas City, MO 64110. Walk-in (ages 12+) Colder temps allow flora to rest but there’s still life in the garden. Enjoy a guided walk around the Discovery Center native gardens. Learn about planning your garden for winter interest and see the fauna that depend on it. This program is in partnership with Deep Roots KC.
Holiday Hanging Basket Class
Sat, Dec 7, 10a; at Arnold’s Prairie Greenhouse & More, 1430 Hwy 58, LeRoy, KS 66857. Please see our facebook page or call for class details. 620-964-2423
Native Plants: Planning Your Garden for Winter Interest
Sat, Dec 7, 10a; Online only. Registration required by visiting www.deeproots.org/winter-
beauty (adults) Subtle colors and bold textures stand out in the landscape this time of year. Learn about the beauty and benefits of native plants in winter. We’ll focus on plants that provide food and habitat for wildlife as well as create visual winter interest in your own backyard. This program is in partnership with Deep Roots KC.
Trees: Winter Dendrology Workshop Thurs, Dec 12, 8a-12p; at Burr Oak Woods Conservation Nature Center, 1401 NW Park Rd, Blue Springs, MO 64015. Join Community Forester Chuck Conner as he teaches how to identify trees when they’re “naked”. Participants in this workshop will learn the basics of tree identification including leaf shapes, arrangements, buds, twig, fruit, bark, form, position in the landscape, and other characteristics used to identify trees. Students will learn how to use reference books and keys to help identify trees in both a classroom setting and in the field. Special emphasis will be given to the identification of native deciduous trees in their “leaf-off” or dormant condition using species specific characteristics and keys. Please wear clothing appropriate for going outdoors for approximately one hour. Workshop is free, but a Missouri winter tree key needs to be purchased. To register: go to mdc.mo.gov, click Events then Kansas City events.
Winter Porch Pot Class
Sat, Dec 14, at Arnold’s Prairie Greenhouse & More, 1430 Hwy 58, LeRoy, KS 66857. Please see our facebook page or call for class details. 620-964-2423
Nature Art: Winter Wonderland
Sat, Dec 14, 10a; at Burr Oak Woods Conservation Nature Center, 1401 NW Park Rd, Blue Springs, MO 64015. Nature provides incredible inspiration and one-of-a-kind supplies in our own backyards. Winter has arrived at Burr Oak Woods, and we’ve collected dried stems, flowers, leaves, grasses and more from our native habitats to help you tap into your creative side. Explore a variety of colors and textures as you create your own unique nature art! Registration required (ages 10+). To register: go to mdc.mo.gov, click Events then Kansas City events.
Birds: Avian Innovations: Exploring Bird Anatomy
Sat, Dec 28, 10a; at Anita B Gorman Conservation Discovery Center, 4750 Troost Ave, Kansas City, MO 64110. Walk-in (all ages) There’s something enchanting about observing how birds adapt to the challenges of winter. How do they find food in the snow? What strategies do they use to stay warm? Join us for this fascinating program focused on birds’ winter adaptations. We’ll explore how features like feather density, body shape and beak structure help birds thrive in cold environments. Through engaging activities and close observations, we’ll uncover the secrets of how these remarkable creatures survive the winter months. This program is in partnership with the Missouri River Bird Observatory.
List your garden events like classes, workshops, seminars, club meetings, and plant sales for free.
Send details to elizabeth@kcgmag.com
Deadline for the January issue is December 7.
GARDEN CALENDAR
December list of what to do in the garden.
VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
• Store unused seeds in a cool, dry location or refrigerator.
• Check vegetables and fruit in storage for spoilage.
• Mulch strawberries for winter protection.
• Clean and oil garden hand tools for winter.
• Till the soil and add organic matter.
• Store unused garden chemicals in a cool, dry, and safe location protected from freezing.
• Update garden journal for success and failure.
• Start planning for next spring on cold winter nights.
• Soil test to determine fertility needs.
FLOWERS
• Mulch grafted roses by mounding soil 6 to 8 inches deep to protect the graft.
• Cut tall hybrid tea roses back to 24 inches to reduce wind whipping and plant damage.
• Shrub roses need no special winter care. Prune in early spring.
• Continue to plant spring flowering bulbs until the ground is frozen.
• Give plants or gift certificates as holiday gifts for gardening friends.
• Empty decorative pots and containers, store them inside.
LAWN
• Remove leaves, limbs, and other debris from lawn to prevent suffocation.
• Store unused fertilizers in a dry location and out of reach of children and pets.
• Store pesticides in a cool (not freezing) dry location, out of reach of children and pets.
• Review lawn service contracts.
• Water fall planted grass as needed.
• Avoid extensive walking on frozen grass.
TREES AND SHRUBS
• Keep heavy snowfall from limbs, lightly shaking to avoid damage.
• Avoid shoveling snow onto trees and shrubs.
• Check and protect the trunks of young trees and shrubs for rabbit damage.
• Living Christmas trees should be in the home for less than one week, and then acclimate to the outdoors and plant in a desirable location.
• Prune damaged branches throughout the winter months.
• Water newly planted trees and shrubs in winter to prevent dry soil conditions.
• Mulch roots of tender shrubs such as azaleas and rhododendrons.
• Prune branches of junipers, pines, hollies, and other plants for holiday decorations.
MISCELLANEOUS
• Start planning for next year by making notes and preparing orders.
• Turn compost pile to encourage winter breakdown.
• Make your Christmas list and add gardening supplies.
• Keep houseplants out of hot and cold drafts.
• Winter is a great time to soil test.
MY GARDEN (Use this space to list additional tasks to accomplish in your garden.)
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Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Anthony Reardon is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.
Santa Paws at the Park
Saturday, December 7 2-4 PM at Loose Park
Get into the howliday spirit with a pet parade, holiday sweater competition, photos with Santa, DIY treat wreath, and more . . . a premiere event in one of Kansas City’s premier parks!
Santa Paws in the Park is the first ever dog howliday event in Loose Park. The event is free to attend and everyone with a furry friend is welcome to join. Guests can enter our holiday outfit competition. Categories include: Ugliest Sweater; Most Creative/Best DIY; and Best Set (matching outfit with owner). Prizes are gift baskets provided by Three Dog Bakery. The event and photos with Santa (on your phone/camera) are free. Upgraded options and activities are available including commemorative photo ornament, DIY Treat Wreath Workshop, and Howliday CookieCups. Dogs must be on a leash at all times.
