KCG 09Sep20

The Kansas City

GARD GA RDENER ENER September 2020 | kcgmag.com

editor’s notes

The Kansas Cit y

GARD GA RDENER ENER Independently owned and operated since 1996 PUBLISHER Michael Cavanaugh EDITOR Elizabeth Cavanaugh CONTRIBUTORS Nik and Theresa Hiremath Lenora Larson Ben Linnemeyer Dennis Patton Judy Penner Chelsea Didde Rice Denise Sullivan Scott Woodbury DISTRIBUTION Publishers Delivery Solutions, Inc. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DISTRIBUTE the magazine at your place of business, please contact Mike Cavanaugh at mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 NEED MORE MAGAZINES? mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 CONTACT US P.O. Box 8725 Prairie Village, KS 66208 913-648-4728 ADVERTISING Mike Cavanaugh at mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 EDITORIAL Elizabeth Cavanaugh elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728

W

earing nothing more than flipflops and windbreakers, we moved to Kansas with four young children in tow, the youngest an infant. It was February.

“Move to Kansas,” they said.

“It’s not that cold. No colder there than it is in Florida.” They lied.

Dressing light is appropriate in February when you live in Florida.

Not in Kansas. Note to self: Always get a second opinion.

The truth of the matter–she was persuading us to move closer. I’m glad she wasn’t selling bridges in the desert. I would’ve bought that too. She was my best friend, and my husband’s sister, and we all were childhood friends, looking to bring our families together at last.

We sold everything worth selling, and packed the rest into the back of a small rental moving truck. What didn’t fit, was given away to neighbors.

We were able to purchase our house, yet we had no jobs. (You can’t do that anymore!) What we did have was an excellent track record, no debt, and the proceeds from the sale of our Florida home.

We both quickly secured jobs.

There were immediate needs like kids to feed and clothe. Thinking long term though, the idea of starting a gardening magazine kept coming up in conversation.

This gardening magazine was born out of an idea we had many years ago while in Florida, but the timing never seemed right.

What do a couple of sandy-toed Floridians know about gardening

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in the Midwest? Absolutely nothing! In fact we learned early on the dramatic differences between gardening in sandy soil and the clay soil of Kansas City. What we do know is how to find the people, local experts who do know.

From county extension agents, horticulturists, and arborists, to green industry professionals, master gardeners, and sage home gardeners, we found plenty who were eager to share their expertise.

Every month for 25 years we have filled these pages with interesting articles from experts across the gardening community.

To all of our advertisers, thank you for your ongoing support of this magazine. You make it possible for us to connect with home gardeners in a consistent, reliable fashion.

To all of our contributors, without your willingness to share your knowledge, we would not have the rich content that our readers have come to trust and count on from month to month.

To our loyal readers, without you this would be all for naught.

Your curiosity and hunger for all things gardening is why this magazine has life.

Just like our garden evolves over time, so does this magazine.

We made a few changes to freshen the look and readability. Our motivation and determination to provide timely, quality content from local experts remains intact. Let us know your thoughts.

I’ll see you in the garden!

In this issue

HOW TO SUBSCRIBE See details on page 23.

SUBSCRIPTION Elizabeth Cavanaugh elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728

a tribute to the beginning

September 2020 | kcgmag.com 4 7 8 11 12 14

Ask the Experts Growing Garlic Rose Report September Sunbeams Editor’s Choice Plants on Your Plate

16 Maximize Fall Seeding 17 Garden Events 18 Front-Yard Conversations 21 Garden Calendar 22 Colors of Fall Birds 23 Hotlines

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Ask the Experts MY TOMATOES ARE CRACKING Question: Many of my tomato fruits developed cracks as they ripened. Is there anything I can do to help prevent this?

Answer: Cracking of tomato fruit is a common problem and mainly occurs with uneven moisture patterns. When plants receive soaking moisture either from rain or irrigation, they rapidly uptake water. The result is an overabundance of water in the fruit, causing it to expand faster than the skin. Since the skin can’t grow as quickly as the fruit, the skin breaks, causing the cracking. Cracking of the fruit can be around the stem end or up and down the fruit.

Preventing these cracks in tomato fruit involves several strategies. Most importantly is an even supply of moisture. But when it rains and the temperatures cool, cracking can be a problem. Select varieties that have crack resistance as one of its traits. Heirloom tomatoes that are prized for their rich flavor tend to be susceptible to cracking. Modern or hybrid varieties are often selected because crack resistance is one of their traits.

BUMBLEBEE BONUS Question: I found a bumblebee nest in my backyard. Should I kill it or leave it alone?

Answer: Bumblebees are one of our best native pollinators.

Bumblebees tend to not be aggressive and sting unless provoked.

Ideally, you would leave the nest alone and let the bumblebees go about pollinating flowers in our backyards and gardens.

Unlike honeybees, a bumblebee nest only lasts one season.

All the workers die off in late fall.

The fertilized queen overwinters in the ground, waiting to start a new colony next year. This is more than likely to occur in a new cavity in the soil. I would say having a nest in your yard is a bonus. If you are concerned about the safety of children or pets, consider temporarily

ally found in foliage, stems and roots. Under hot, dry summer conditions, these compounds move into the fruit. The high concentration of cucurbitacins causes an odd flavor. The highest concentrations tend to be in the stem end and peel. You might try removing more of the stem end and peeling deeper to remove the compound.

To reduce stress on the vine, apply even amounts of water to help keep the problem in check. The high temperatures may still cause the issue even with the best of care.

An overabundance of water causes tomatoes to crack.

Bumblebees usually are nonaggressive, unless provoked.

No need to remove sun damaged hosta leaves.

fencing off that section of the yard to keep everyone safe and happy.

planting. Control is achieved with an application of a broad-spectrum insecticide as soon as feeding is noticed. The good news is given a little time and proper care, the plant should make a full recovery, so controls may not be necessary. Will it happen next year? Who knows?

GROUNDCOVER DESTROYED Question: Creeping Jenny is one of my favorite ground covers as I enjoy digging up clumps and adding to my containers. My patch was devoured this summer by a small worm. Can you tell me what attacked my Creeping Jenny and what should I do to prevent this from happening next year?

Answer: Creeping Jenny, a species of Lysimachia, is fed upon from time to time by a sawfly larvae. The larvae of the grass sawfly are about an inch long and has light and dark green stripes. Feeding happens typically in May and June and lasts for about a month. The feeding can quickly defoliate a

DENNIS PATTON Horticulture Agent 4

September 2020 | kcgmag.com

CUCUMBER BITTER TASTE Question: My cucumbers were producing nicely, and I enjoyed having fresh cukes for eating and canning. I noticed in July that the cucumbers tasted bitter. What caused this to happened and how can I prevent it from happening next year?

Answer: Bitterness in cucumbers is caused by an increase in the plant’s production of the compound cucurbitacins, which is usu-

KEEP OR REMOVE SUN SCORCHED HOSTA LEAVES Question: I am debating with a gardening friend and need your help. A couple of my hostas are in a location that gets too much sun.

The hot summer sun fried many of the leaves. Here is the debate.

I want to remove the sunburned foliage, yet my friend says not to cut them off. So who is right?

Answer: I dislike picking a side among friends, but if I have to choose, I agree with your friend.

Although brown leaves look bad, there is an advantage to not removing them. Even a small amount of green will carry on photosynthesis and is better than no ability to make food. If there is some healthy foliage, I would leave them on.

This question is frequent after a hailstorm. Some people remove the tattered leaves, while others leave them on the plant. Fast forward a year. Plants with tattered leaves remaining grow back bigger and more vigorous than those having their ability to make energy removed. My take is to leave them on as long as possible. Once they are completely yellow, then remove them.

Let me also settle the debate about whether to remove hosta foliage in the spring or fall, just in case you disagree on this as well. Both of you are correct. Once the foliage is frost killed, it can be cut off in the fall or left for spring clean up.

Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

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The Kansas City Gardener | September 2020

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September 2020 | kcgmag.com

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Growing Garlic incredibly easy, culinary convenience

I

f someone asked me which vegetable or fruit requires the least amount of work for the most amount of monetary value, my answer would always be garlic.

Not only does a single head of organically grown garlic cost close to a dollar at the store or farmers market, but growing garlic also requires minimal effort and maintenance – just a little patience.

You see, garlic has a different growth pattern than other vegetables we’re used to planting.

For the biggest heads of garlic, we typically plant in the fall. The plants develop roots before winter weather sets in, then rest over the frigid winter months. When the soil warms in early spring, they spring back to life, push out leaves and continue growing until we harvest the entire plant in mid-summer, nine months after planting.

In Kansas City, the ideal time to plant garlic is in early October, so now is the time to head to the garden center or online store to purchase what is called “certified seed garlic” bulbs. While garlic can be grown from actual seeds collected when a plant blooms, you’ll get a full bulb of garlic much faster by planting individual cloves of seed garlic from a bulb. Each clove you plant will grow into a full head over the course of about nine months. It’s important to buy certified seed garlic rather than plant the extra cloves that started sprouting in your pantry because the cloves at the store are often treated with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting while in transit or at the grocery store. In addition, there’s no guarantee that the variety sold at the store is ideal for growing in our climate.

Once you’ve purchased your seed garlic bulbs from the garden center or they’ve arrived in the mail, get ready to plant. Ensure the soil you’re planting in is loose and

has plenty of organic matter like compost. I also like to add in some slow release organic fertilizer like Espoma Garden Tone at planting time to give the cloves a boost as they develop roots. To plant, break apart the large head of garlic into individual cloves, leaving the papery wrapping on each clove.

Choose the largest cloves to plant and save small cloves for use in the kitchen. The larger the clove, the larger the eventual head of garlic.

Plant the cloves about three inches deep and four to six inches apart with the pointy end of the clove up.

A few weeks after planting, when the soil has cooled down for winter, I cover the planting area with two to three inches of shredded fall leaves from our lawnmower. This helps the soil retain moisture over the winter. If you don’t have access to leaves, straw or dried grass clippings are good options as well. Other than mulching, no care is needed over the winter.

In spring, pull back some of the shredded leaf mulch to allow the tiny green sprouts to see the sun, and apply a slow release organic fertilizer on top of the soil. Worms and spring rain will help the fertilizer make its way down to the roots of the plants. When summer arrives, check on the garlic and ensure the soil stays relatively damp, but not soggy. In May or June, some varieties will produce scapes, which are circular stalks that grow out of the top of the plant. When you see these, pinch them off at the area where they meet the plant’s leaves. If left on the plant, scapes will produce flowers and rob the growing garlic bulb of some of its energy. Luckily, scapes are edible and quite tasty!

They’re often grilled or blended into garlic scape pesto sauce.

In late June to early July (for Kansas City gardeners) you’ll

CHELSEA DIDDE RICE Gardening Enthusiast

notice the lower half of each plant’s leaves have dessicated and turned yellow or brown. This means it’s time to harvest! Stop watering the plants for a few days to make the harvest process less muddy, then

green leaves in a dark room with plenty of air circulation for four to five weeks. My favorite way to cure garlic is to rubber band four to five plants into a bundle by their leaves and hang them from hooks

grab your garden fork or shovel.

Gently dig about six inches away from the main stalk of the plant and pry up the soil to free the head of garlic. Brush off as much soil as you can with your hands or a soft bristled brush. Do not wash your newly harvested cloves as this can invite mold and mildew.

After you finish harvesting, it’s time to cure the garlic and dry the outer layers of skin to ensure it stores for as many months as possible. To do so, either lay it out horizontally or hang it up by its

on the ceiling of my garage, where I have a fan circulating air at all times. It makes for quite the aroma when opening the garage door, but the smell dissipates quickly and I’ve never had any problems with mold or rot.

Plus, my husband loves to joke that we’re the safest house on the block when it comes to vampires.

After several weeks, cut the roots and tops off of the bulbs and store them in a cool, dark area until use or share the bounty with friends and family!

When Chelsea isn’t at work as a senior communications specialist, she is an avid gardener who enjoys teaching people how easy it can be to garden. You may reach her at chelseadidde@gmail.com.

The Kansas City Gardener | September 2020

7

Rose Report Understanding Japanese Beetles, the life cycle, and control options

O

ne of the most frequent questions I get about roses is how do I control the Japanese beetles.

First and foremost I would say do not put up a Japanese beetle trap. This will attract more beetles to your garden.

Understanding the life cycle To understand how to effectively control the beetle a basic understanding of the life cycle is needed.

The adult beetles that you see in the garden will live for about two months and in our area that is mid to late June to about the first week in August, depending on the year.

During this time their sole purpose is to mate. The female lays eggs in the first few inches of soil a total of 40 to 60 times during their short lives.

An insecticide to kill the adults can be sprayed but you would need

to spray every day and in the process many beneficial insects would be killed making this an undesirable option.

Hand picking them on a daily basis especially in the morning is best, especially as the females leave the plants in the afternoon to lay their eggs. A container of soapy water is best when picking off beetles, by simply dropping them into the soapy solution you will eliminate them without harming the beneficial insects.

The grubs grow quickly and by August are almost full sized at one inch. Grubs feed on roots of turf grass doing best in well irrigated lawns. Mid-summer rainfall and adequate soil moisture are needed to keep eggs and newly hatched grubs from drying out, although grubs are relatively drought resistant and will move deeper into the soil if conditions are dry.

JUDY PENNER Expert Rosarian 8

September 2020 | kcgmag.com

Once the eggs are in the ground the developing grubs remain in the soil for the next 10 months.

During the fall when the soil cools to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit the grubs move deeper into the soil.

In the spring when the soil temperatures climb above 50 degrees they move up into the root zone following a feeding period of 4-6 weeks. The grubs pupate in an earthen cell and remain there until emerging as adults.

Grub control requires properly timed applications of a soil insecticide to infested turf and flower beds.

Control possibilities Two different strategies are available for controlling grubs with insecticides – Curative and Preventative, and regardless of the product, post treatment irrigation

should be applied to water the insecticide residues into the root zone.

The Curative Control is applied in late summer after the eggs have hatched and grubs are present.

Insecticides used for curative control have a relatively short residual effectiveness (two to three weeks or less). The best time to apply is early to mid August. A control can be used in late August or September but as the grubs grow larger they are more difficult to control. It’s best to get them when they’re young.

The Preventative Control is applied as insurance before potential grub problems develop.

Preventative Control requires the use of insecticides with long residual activity in the soil. Several such products are available and give excellent control of newly hatched white grubs when applied weeks or even two to three months before the grubs have hatched. These insecticides have a selective activity on target pests and pose little hazard to humans, pets and birds.

Curative insecticides include but are not limited to Dylox and Bayer Advanced 24 hour grub control. Preventative insecticides include but are not limited to Merit and Bayer Advanced lawn and season long grub control.

Applying your grub control at the proper time of the year will optimize the effectiveness of the grub treatment. Write it down with your other garden tasks for the month, as a reminder. It might make a difference.

Remember to stop and smell the roses.

Judy Penner is Expert Rosarian at Loose Park, Kansas City, Missouri. You may reach her at judy.penner@kcmo.org.

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The Kansas City Gardener | September 2020

9

September Sunbeams Cloudless Sulphur Butterflies

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and attach their chrysalis directly to the host plant.

Migratory Pattern Cloudless Sulphur spend spring and early summer in the Southeast and don’t arrive in the Kansas City area until early August. Lusty males

Most Monarchs fly too high to be seen but our sunbeams fly south below eye level in steady streams through open habitat. Sadly, both Monarchs and Cloudless Sulphurs lose their host plants when fields of “Round-up Ready” crops are sprayed with herbicides.

Photos by Lenora Larson.

n September, Monarchs grab the media’s attention as they start their southern migration to Mexico. However, Cloudless Sulphurs are a far more numerous and more visible fall migrant. The unmistakable male has clear (“cloudless”) lemon colored wings with

A chrysalis, disguised as a thorn, on its host, Partridge Pea.

A luminous male Cloudless Sulphur nectaring on Scarlet Sage, Salvia coccinea.

Cloudless Sulphur cat on its favorite host, Wild Senna. a span of 2.5 inches. The larger female has a black spot in the center of its forewing plus small rusty circles on the underside of both wings. Unlike the Monarch and our six species of Swallowtails, Sulphur caterpillars lack a wanderlust

patrol for females in their territory, which they establish in the vicinity of host plants (not flowers!).

Their offspring will migrate south in November when South Florida and the Bahamas welcome millions of these returning sunbeams.

LENORA LARSON Butterfly Maven 10

September 2020 | kcgmag.com

Additional Species of Sulphurs Shimmering in shades of yellow and orange, seven species reside in our gardens and grasslands from March to November.

The Clouded and Orange Sulphurs get an early start because they spend the winter here as caterpillars and by late March, adults are nectaring on Dandelions and Catmint. The rest of the Sulphurs spend the winter vacationing along the Gulf Coast and migrate north as the temperatures rise. These medium-sized Sulphurs are difficult to differentiate because they promiscuously interbreed and they are sexually dimorphic, i.e., the girls and boys are dressed differently.

And the colors change throughout the seasons! All Sulphurs are fiendishly uncooperative; they never sit still with their glorious wings open.

To identify them, you will need patience and a good field guide such as Betsy Betros’ A Photographic Field Guide to the Butterflies in the Kansas City Region.

Host plants Members of the pea family such as Clover, Cassia and Alfalfa species serve as host plants for Sulphur caterpillars. In my garden, Cloudless Sulphurs show a strong preference for two native hosts.

The annual 18-inch Partridge Pea, Chamaecrista fasciculata has brilliant yellow flowers arranged along the length of the stem. Stunning!

Since it enthusiastically self-sows, you won’t need to replant it each year and with its long bloom period, it’s better than any perennial. The perennial Wild Senna, Cassia marilandica grows into a handsome 4-foot bush each summer with racemes of yellow flowers that ripen into attractive long black seed pods, relished by birds.

Because it dies to the ground each winter, Wild Senna never becomes unruly or over-sized.

In the Garden With the addition of their host plants into your garden, you can enjoy our many species of Sulphurs from March to November. The males also need a wet area to puddle for minerals. Additionally, Cloudless Sulphurs require lateblooming flowers to power their journey south. Unlike other butterflies, their exceptionally long tongue allows for nectaring on tubular flowers like Petunias and Salvias. Other favorite late blooming plants include Goldenrods and Asters. Their glowing yellow wings always bring brilliance to your fall landscape.

A Marais des Cygnes Master Gardener, Lenora is a member of the Idalia Butterfly Society and Kansas Native Plant Society. She gardens in the clay soil and cruel winds of Paola, KS. She may be contacted at lenora.longlips@gmail.com.

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11

American Wisteria

Editor’s Choice noteworthy plants T

hrough the years we have introduced a multitude of plants. From trees and shrubs, to annuals and perennials, the varieties are too numerous to recall in this space. However, there were a featured few that caught my eye. So much so that I have included them in my garden, or, in the case of tropicals, I have given them as gifts. The plants highlighted here are on my list of favorites and come to mind when a fellow gardener asks for a suggestion.

Perennial climber American wisteria, Wisteria frutescens, native to North America is a preferred species here in Kansas City rather than the more aggressive Asian species. Fragrant and showy, they flower more reliably in our area in late May through June in sunny sites. When the garden conditions were right this season, mine rebloomed. It is unusual, yet delightful.

My daylily collection continues to grow. This beauty Hemerocallis ‘Outrageous’ is vigorous and stunning in the garden. Blooms mid season, is drought tolerant and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.

Zinnias are my new favorite annual. When I met ‘Zahara Double Raspberry Ripple’ a double two-tone flower that holds its flower pattern fairly well even during the dog days of summer, I knew I wanted more. Growing from seed has been fun and easy. This hardworking annual provided stunning color all season.

In the houseplant category, Flamingo flower or painter’s palette is a very tropical looking flowering plant that will produce beautiful flow-

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September 2020 | kcgmag.com

ers all year long. This flowering plant is a bit on the larger size when full grown, however they will flower when young about 8 to 10 inches tall.

Flowers range from white, pink, to red and last for weeks while more are produced. Anthuriums like to be allowed to dry between watering and misting helps to create the humidity they like.

Remember, they are tropical after all. Place them in a bright window where flowering will be at its best. Nestle them in with your orchids, they will make a nice addition.

One that I never tire of is the tropical bromeliad Aechmea. Well suited to grow indoors or out, they thrive in light shade or indirect sunlight. Mine has made a lovely centerpiece on the dining room table. Other than keeping water in its central tank at all times, the care is effortless.

With so many to choose from, you’ll likely want more than one.

Peonies are my garden treasures. From the hundreds of different peony varieties, there are a select few in my garden, due only to sunlight limits. Yumi Itoh Peony pictured here is an intersectional hybrid named ‘Yellow Doodle Dandy’ with exceptionally large blooms. Most of my peonies are tree form, rather than herbaceous, and always deliver enough blooms to bring indoors plus share with the neighbors.

Hosta is another category of long-lived perennials that return year after year. These shade tolerant plants are known for their diverse foliage.

The entire east side of our landscape is full of varieties like ‘June’, ‘Elegans’, ‘Guacamole’

Daylily Outrageous

Zinnia Zahara Double Raspberry Ripple

Anthurium

Aechmea

Peony Yellow Doodle Dandy and ‘Halcyon’. These paired with fern varieties like ‘Autumn Brilliance’ and ‘Lady in Red’, the display is captivating.

Clematis can add a nice focal point to the landscape. ‘Ramona’ offers a softer color to the palette, with soft purple blooms throughout the summer. I haven’t had much success with clematis and ‘Ramona’ is no exception.

Despite those experiences, I plan to continue my research and try again.

It seems I am drawn to plants that benefit wildlife. And I have grown particularly fond of ‘Allegheny’ Viburnum rhytidophyllum.

Attractive, dense upright grower that makes a great hedge, screen or windbreak.

‘Allegheny’ features slender, oblong, and beautifully textured leaves that are deep green forming a dense shrub. In our area, it is considered semi-evergreen. When winter is harsh, the

Hosta

Clematis Ramona

leaves become unsightly. For my garden, that adds to the natural forest look of the backyard.

This viburnum isn’t particular about soil type, although it must be well draining for best performance.

When selecting a site, keep in mind mature size. These beauties need room to grow.

Light needs are simple: sun to part shade, making viburnum versatile in any landscape.

Although ‘Allegheny’ is drought tolerant, consistent watering is essential for the first season. Deep, regular watering helps to establish an extensive root system. Taper off watering once established.

The flowers are abundant in spring. When late summer comes, bright red berries appear maturing to black just in time for feeding backyard birds. Such a delight to see birds use the shrubs as playground and habitat.

Viburnum Allegheny

The Kansas City Gardener | September 2020

13

PLANTS ON YOUR PLATE Green Beans actively involved harvesting as a child. I didn’t exactly enjoy bending over the long rows planted in our family garden, or snapping the ends to prepare for a meal, but I did enjoy the simple goodness of a pot of fresh cooked green beans, seasoned with onion and a bit of ham or bacon. Add in some fresh new potatoes, with a side of sliced tomatoes, and that was a common summertime dinner all by itself.

Like most vegetables, green beans are a low-calorie choice and are a good source or vitamins C and K,

as well as potassium, magnesium and fiber.

If you have an abundance of green beans, they can be frozen, canned or pickled, though canning supplies have been in limited supply in many areas. Growing up, we pressure canned most of our green beans plain, but over the years, I have become more fond of pickled dilly beans. The recipe below, from Seasonal and Simple has a similar flavor as dilly beans and makes a tasty side dish for a late-summer picnic.

Dilled Green Bean Salad MAKES 5 SERVINGS

S

nap beans, string beans or green beans…different names for the same product.

Older plant varieties had a fibrous ‘string’ that ran the length of the bean, hence the name. Through modern plant breeding, newer varieties tend not to have this string.

The name snap bean became popular due to the sound made when picking and preparing for cooking.

Green beans are the second most common home garden plant, right behind tomatoes. Green beans are classified as pole or bush varieties, and both will yield the same nutritious product, though pole beans may require slightly different maintenance in needing a pole or trellis to support their growth.

Originating in Peru, green beans were shared through south and central America via migrating Indian

tribes. Native Americans would plant pole beans as part of the three sisters planting process, where corn stalks would provide the structure for the beans to climb, while squash plants would provide shade to the roots to retain moisture.

When selecting fresh green beans, look for a bright, vivid color and a velvety feel and firm texture. Don’t choose limp, split or oversized beans that are bulging, as the seed pods inside will make the beans tough and potentially produce that fibrous string. Fresh beans can be stored in a plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator for 3-5 days. Trim away any insect or ‘rust’ spots as you prepare your beans.

Green beans have always been one of my favorite garden-fresh vegetables and one that I was most

DENISE SULLIVAN Nutrition Ninja 14

September 2020 | kcgmag.com

INGREDIENTS 1-pound fresh green beans, ends trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces 2 tablespoons fresh chopped dill 4-6 green onions, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Dash of hot sauce (optional) Steam green beans over boiling water for 5 minutes, until tender-crisp. Stir together beans, dill and onions in a bowl. In a separate bowl or small jar, combine oil, vinegar, mustard and hot sauce and whisk or shake to combine. Pour over bean mixture and mix well. Chill for at least 30 minutes before serving.

NUTRITION INFORMATION Calories: 84, Total Fat: 5.5g, Saturated Fat: >1g, Sodium: 16mg, Carbohydrates: 8g, Fiber: 3.5g, Protein: 2.5g Recipe adapted from Seasonal and Simple, analyzed by verywellfit.com.

Denise Sullivan (@MUExtJacksonCo) is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For research based nutrition and food safety information and programs, call 816-4825850 or visit https://extension2.missouri.edu/.

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The Kansas City Gardener | September 2020

15

Five Ways Pruning Can Maximize Fall Seeding

I

f your lawn has suffered damage due to drought, insects or disease – or if just need to fill in thin/bare areas – you may be considering overseeding your lawn this month. One of the biggest culprits of a thin lawn is often too much shade. Grass doesn’t grow in the

forest and you may be finding this to be true for the turf under the trees at your home as well. How much quality light your lawn is exposed to daily is one of, if not the most important factors relating to turf growth and performance. Here are five ways pruning can help more light reach your lawn. An arborist can help determine which technique best suits your needs.

Raising low limbs.

In most cases, by eliminating lower branches, you almost instantly increase sun exposure to the turf below. Often this option will give homeowners the biggest bang for their buck. Large low limbs are no problem in parks or open fields, but usually not in

an urban setting. They can block sightlines and be difficult to mow or walk under while also shading the ground below. It is best to eliminate low limbs when trees are small to medium-sized. If the tree is mature, these limbs might need to be removed in phases or reduced

in length to help prevent large wounds that might lead to decay in the future.

Opening up “pockets of light.”

Selectively removing branches from a tree can create pockets of light, allowing more filtered sunlight to reach the turf. Arborists often use this technique when people have landscape plants that require shade, but they still desire a green lawn. Consistent pruning is necessary to maintain these pockets. You must take care not to thin out a tree too much. A good rule of thumb is to not remove more than one-third of the canopy at any one time. Also, avoid lions-tailing a tree – the practice of stripping most or all of its interior branches and

BEN LINNEMEYER Arborist 16

September 2020 | kcgmag.com

foliage while only leaving growth at the end of branches.

Pulling canopies back.

If the canopies of trees or large shrubs are encroaching on or over turf, they can be pruned in a way as to pull them up and over the grass.

Oftentimes by pulling the canopies of trees back, the lawn is exposed to more mid-day sun. For trees, this may mean reducing the overall length of a branch or branches back to an appropriate lateral. A good rule of thumb is to look for a lateral that is at least one-third the diameter of the branch you are reducing.

A branch this size will help slow the limb’s growth and maintain a more natural look of the tree while retaining enough foliage to sustain the branch moving forward. You can significantly reduce most large, overgrown shrubs. The benefit of doing this is twofold, they will no longer be hanging over the turf blocking out light to the lawn, and they will be easier to maintain in the future.

Removal of trees.

Often the last resort, but if you desire a healthy stand of grass, there are times the only way you can achieve it is to remove trees.

If you own a property with many trees, selective removal may be needed to create light pockets, as described earlier. Be sure to consult your lawn care professional or an arborist about developing a game plan that best suits your property.

In conjunction with removing a tree or trees, grinding out the stump or stumps can best prepare your yard for seeding. Stumps can be a pain to mow around or simply be an eyesore. Plus, if the tree you have eliminated is shallow-rooted, removing surface roots is a must for a smooth, even seeding surface.

Eliminate grass.

Tree roots and grass don’t play well together. If you want to keep your tree(s) but are fed up with seeding under them year after year or dealing with large surface roots, you can pursue other options. One of these options is to create mulch rings around them. The size of the mulch ring will vary depending on tree size or your personal preference. A couple of advantages of mulch rings are they allow for better uptake by the tree of nutrients and moisture while protecting it against mechanical damage to the trunk from mowers and string trimmers. You can also incorporate trees into your existing beds and plant groundcover or shade-loving perennials of your choice.

No matter which of the options listed above may benefit your property, you need to act fast. The seeding window is limited, and the tree care company of your choice may be booked out weeks in advance.

Proper pruning will only help ensure you get the most out of your fall seeding investment.

Ben Linnemeyer is a 19-year professional ISA Certified Arborist with Ryan Lawn and Tree, currently serving as the pruning department manager for Ryan Lawn & Tree’s Overland Park, Kansas, location. Linnemeyer earned a bachelor’s degree in biology from William Jewell College in 2001 and has spent all of his professional career at Ryan.

Garden Events Kansas City Dahlia Society Shows Sat, Sep 5 and Sun, Sep 6: Powell Gardens Dahlia Show. We’ll be following the Jackson County, MO guidelines for Powell Gardens. There will be many colors, sizes and a variety of beautiful blooms our members grew this season! If you have questions or would like the rules of the show please contact Larry Boucher at 816-8051387 ...AND...

Sat, Sep 26 beginning at 1p and Sun, Sep 27 ending at 3p. We will be showing off many of the colors, sizes and varieties of dahlias at our 73rd Annual Dahlia Show at Suburban Lawn & Garden, 135th and Wornall Rd location. We will follow Suburban’s guidelines for safety and social distancing. If you have questions about growing dahlias, stop by! Our members will be happy to help you out. For more details, contact Larry Boucher at 816-805-1397.

Lee’s Summit Garden Club Tues, Sep 8, 7p; Winterset Park Community Ctr, 2505 SW Wintercreek Dr, Lee’s Summit, MO 64081. Topic: Spring Bulbs. Workshop/discussion on how to plant Spring bulbs, why plant in the fall. MASKS ARE REQUIRED. Refreshments provided, visitors welcome. www.leessummitgardenclub.org TreeKeepers Sep 10–Oct 8, 6-8:30p; Heartland Tree Alliance is offering an online learning opportunity five consecutive Thursdays with one hands-on workday Sat, Sep 26, 9a-12p. Great course for any-

one wanting to learn more about shade and ornamental trees. Learn about soils, biology, selection, pruning, ID, and planting. Classroom and hands-on learning taught by various local experts. Must register in advance to obtain Zoom information, $50 fee. https://tinyurl. com/treeKS2020 or call Sarah 816-561-1086.

Winter Gardening: Growing Greens to Beat the Blues Sat, Sep 12, 9a-12p; Johnson County Community College, 12345 College Blvd, Overland Park, KS. Growing nutritional edibles during the dreary fall and winter months has many advantages. It is easier gardening than in the heat of the summer, less watering is needed and there are fewer bugs and weeds! Discuss the science, methods and some simple structures that work well for a small scale home garden and learn which plants do well in the cold. Fee: $39. To enroll go to https:// ce.jccc.edu or call 913-469-2323.

SAGES: Show Me the Honey Thurs, Sep 17, 10a–noon; at Powell Gardens.

To celebrate National Honey Month, join us for this ‘sweet’ talk on the process and benefits of harvesting honey. Learn from a local beekeeper about extracting honey, cooking with honey, and the health benefits of honey. Following the talk, enjoy a box lunch among the pollinator habitat in Powell Gardens’ Native Butterfly Habitat. $35 includes box lunch; Members receive 10% off. www.powellgardens.org

More events are posted on our website, KCGMAG.com, click on “Events.” Promote club meetings, classes, and other gardening events for FREE! Send details to: elizabeth@kcgmag.com. Deadline for publishing in the October issue is September 5.

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The Kansas City Gardener | September 2020

17

Photo by Carol Davit.

Photo by Scott Woodbury.

The Time is Ripe for Front-Yard Conversations

Above: James and Jan Trager’s Gray Summit, Mo., native garden was certified through the St. Louis Audubon’s Bring Conservation Home program.

Photo by Scott Woodbury.

Left and Below: Signs like these for your garden indicate to the neighborhood that you support native gardening.

I

f there ever was a silver lining to the current health crisis, it is that people are spending more time outdoors and yearning to connect with other people. For instance, in the past week, while strolling along a sidewalk, I struck up conversations with two people who were gardening in their front yards. I was drawn in by their attractive gardens, and then thrilled to have a face-to-face chat over the split-rail fence, over the lowclipped hedge. These days it is so

easy to break the ice. People are yearning for human connections.

I simply said, “Your roses smell so nice,” and “Are those ‘Happy Returns’ daylilies?” and before I knew it, a few minutes of blissful chit-chat had consumed my day, and these conversations became the highlight of my week. What a treat from the depressing new normal of visiting with coworkers, friends and family on a computer screen!

In addition to my exchanges being pleasant, they also were

SCOTT WOODBURY Horticulturist 18

September 2020 | kcgmag.com

Horticulturist Scott Woodbury is the Curator of the Whitmore Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve in Gray Summit, MO, where he has worked with native plant propagation, design, and education for 28 years, and which is supported by the Missouri Dept. of Conservation. He also is an advisor to the Missouri Prairie Foundation’s Grow Native! program.

thought provoking. What messages (and potential messages) do we send to our neighbors through the front yard garden? The scent of the roses and lovely masses of lemonyellow daylilies (both non-native plants) briefly interrupted my mundane routine. I instantly sensed beauty with my nose and eyes, and then had the unique opportunity to follow up with a question or two. Without the gardener standing there, I would have kept walking and the smells and sights would have quickly evaporated from my memory. But with the gardener’s words, came greater understanding. I found that roses bloom heavily with hard work and a lot of fertilizer and water, and that ‘Happy Returns’ daylily is a nicer color yellow than ‘Stella de oro’ and available at Lowes.

And that was it. The message was about flower color and quantity of bloom. OK, that’s fine. That got my attention, for a brief moment.

Please don’t get me wrong: I am so grateful for the in-person conversations I have these days, especially with fellow gardeners. But there is so much more that can come from a front yard conversation about plants, and there should be.

Native plants are so much more than just beautiful flowers. They feed nectar and pollen to countless bee species, whose populations world-wide are in decline. In return, bees pollinate plants so they can produce fruits like blueberry and watermelon, and seeds eaten by wild birds (Texas green eyes produce seeds all summer for gold finches).

Native plants feed moth and butterfly caterpillars with lifesupporting leaf tissue. That’s why there are holes in milkweed and pawpaw leaves. And those caterpillars feed baby birds, whose populations are also in steep decline.

White oak tree bark provides a home for bats and overwintering butterflies. Its acorns feed squirrels, chipmunks, and red-headed woodpeckers all winter long. And Missouri white oak wood used in barrels flavors the wine and whiskey we love to consume.

Native plants are so rich, they have depth, and are brimming with connections to nature, cuisine, his-

tory, and folklore. In the book Ozark Magic and Folklore (1947), Vance Randolph writes that many old people think that ironwood trees were planted by the Devil’s agents and that sassafras trees somehow sprout from grub worms. He probably wasn’t aware that ironwood is the best species for tree climbing (for safety, mulch thickly below the tree). Also, Randolph writes that pawpaw is well known to be connected with witch-craft and even zebra swallowtail butterflies (who lay their eggs only on pawpaw) are thought of as “strange” because it is so often seen fluttering around pawpaw trees. If this won’t start (or stop) a front-yard conversation, then nothin’ will.

Randolph’s books are chock-full of Ozark stories about plants and people that will either keep your neighbors hanging on your every word, or send them running for the hills.

Clearly, I’ve had extra time on my hands and need some face time, I mean real face time. But if you don’t take kindly to chatting with passers-bye, but still see the value in messaging, there are a number of garden signs that may be of interest. St. Louis Wild Ones offers a sign that says “This garden is in harmony with Nature.” St. Louis Audubon’s backyard certification program, Bring Conservation Home, provides a sign that says “This landscape provides outstanding wildlife habitat value.” Grow Native!, a program of the Missouri Prairie Foundation, has five different signs, one of which states “These native plants provide food sources for beneficial insects and support songbirds and other cherished wildlife.”

If your goal is to support nature, and create memories that last, consider adding native plants and perhaps a sign that tells the neighborhood that you support native gardening. Now, more than ever, nature needs us to step up and do our part. Happy Gardening ya’ll.

Find suppliers of native plants and native plant services at www. grownative.org, Resource Guide.

Grow Native! garden signs are available in the Gift Shop at grownative.org.

Landscape Design, Installation and Maintenance Services From trees and shrubs to perennials, mulch and stone, expert Landscape Designers are ready to help with your next project!

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The Kansas City Gardener | September 2020

19

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READY FOR FALL? Not yet, but we have all you need when the weather changes.

Our store carries a complete line of pond supplies, liners, nets, deicers, fishes, and fall fish food.

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816-842-5012 • pondskc.com • 1557 Swift Ave., KCMO September 2020 | kcgmag.com

Kans

FIND BACK ISSUES AT KCGMAG.COM GRAB A CUP OF COFFEE, SIT BACK AND ENJOY OUR ARCHIVES

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hedge apple days Sep. 26 & 27 | 12–4 p.m.

HEAD TO POWELL GARDENS to enjoy a seed-themed scavenger hunt, play nature games including hedge apple bowling, and make the iconic Hedge Apple Goblin craft.

Search for, collect, and play with the unique seeds and seed pods from Missouri’s native plants.

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2013

Trees ering k o er Flow Summ A Closer Lo h rt Wo

KCGMAG.COM

Family frolic

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We also carry Lawn & Garden supplies, pet supplies and bird seed.

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20

MISSED AN ISSUE?

d Plants Pets an ts Bouque Native des Nemato neficial ve?

Using Be ll in Lo rflies Fa tte Bu Do

GARDEN CALENDAR September list of what to do in the garden.

LAWN

• Seed bluegrass or tall fescue lawns early in the month for best results.

• Sod new lawns or dead spots for quick recovery.

• Renovate bluegrass or tall fescue by verticutting then overseeding.

• Core aerate cool-season turf to aid in root development and thatch breakdown.

• Fertilize cool-season grasses with high nitrogen sources of fertilizer.

• Mow turf at least 3 inches. Sharpen mower blade for a clean cut.

• Continue to mow zoysia but do not fertilize or aerate this late in the season.

FLOWERS

• Plant spring flowering bulbs, tulips, daffodils and others.

• Dig, divide or plant peonies.

• Divide perennials, especially spring bloomers.

• Remove seed heads from perennials to prevent reseeding in the garden.

• Plant chrysanthemums for fall color.

• Dig gladiolus as foliage begins to yellow and air-dry before storing for winter.

• Clean up garden areas to reduce insects and disease as plants die back for winter.

• Enrich the soil by adding organic matter such as compost.

• Soil test for the next growing season.

VEGETABLES AND FRUITS

• Continue to harvest vegetables.

• Pick apples and pears and store in a cool place to extend freshness.

• Harvest pumpkins when the flesh is completely orange. Avoid carrying by the stem.

• Harvest winter squash when the rind cannot be punctured with your fingernail.

• Plant lettuce, spinach and radishes for fall harvest.

• Remove weeds from garden plantings before going to seed.

• Dig tender herbs from the garden and placed in pots for indoor use this winter.

• Remove small tomatoes to increase late development of more mature fruits.

• Spade or till garden plots incorporating fallen leaves or grass clippings to improve soil.

• Plant garlic cloves for next year’s crop.

TREES AND SHRUBS

• Plant trees and shrubs, deciduous and evergreen.

• Rake up fallen leaves and compost.

• Prune broken and dead branches from trees.

• Avoid pruning spring flowering shrubs to ensure spring flowers.

• Handpick bagworms to reduce problem infestation next year.

HOUSEPLANTS

• Bring plants in before temperatures drop into the 50s.

• Clean and wash before moving indoors to reduce insects.

• Fertilize before winter conditions arrive and growth slows.

• Force poinsettias into Christmas bloom by starting dark treatment.

MY GARDEN (Use this space to list additional tasks to accomplish in your garden.)

• • • •

Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

The Kansas City Gardener | September 2020

21

The colors of fall...birds that is Photos courtesy of ebird.org.

Fall is a remarkably interesting time for bird watchers.

YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER

RED-BREASTED NUTHATCH

YELLOW-BELLIED SAPSUCKER

CEDAR WAXWING

NIK HIREMATH Birding Expert 22

September 2020 | kcgmag.com

L

ike spring it is a time when there is the most diversity of bird species. To perhaps misapply an adage, what goes up, must come down. Of course, I am talking about all the birds which migrated north for the summer are now returning south. Luckily, our region lies in both the North American Central and Mississippi Flyways, with Kansas on the eastern edge of the Central and Missouri on the western edge of the Mississippi.

There an estimated 400+ species of birds which use these flyways.

If you are an avid birder, you might go trekking to find your once in a lifetime (lifer) bird during these migrations. However, most of us might focus on seeing an unusual bird on a nature walk or at your backyard bird feeders. So, while the list is extensive, I will list a few of my favorites to keep your eyes out for. A good field guide can help you identify these birds and perhaps you could study the guide before going on your next walk or watching your feeders. My list includes, Cedar Waxwing, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, and a White-throated sparrow to name a few. And of course, late in the fall, and a harbinger of winter, the Dark-eyed Junco.

A great resource to track migrations is available from the Cornel Lab of Ornithology. Use the following URL in your web browser: https://birdcast.info/live-migrationmaps/.

An interesting behavior which signals the onset of migration is flocking. While it is not fully understood why birds flock, some theories suggest that there is safety in numbers against predators and there are more eyes capable of spotting food sources. Some flocks can be as few as 20 or 30 and some have been estimated to be as large as a million. A fun bit of trivia is the

variety of interesting names given to flocks of certain species. Some of my favorites, a kettle of hawks, a Vatican of Cardinals, a murder of crows, a convocation of eagles, a charm of goldfinches, a glittering of hummingbirds, a parliament of owls, a confusion of warbles, and a drumming of woodpeckers.

Did you know many birds migrate at night? There’s speculation its cooler at night thus preventing overheating and also far fewer predators at night. Birds migrate at speeds of 15 to 55 miles an hour and can cover 15 to 600 miles each day. Now while we won’t witness some of these other amazing record holders for migration, it’s fascinating to know about them.

For example, Bar-headed Geese cross the Himalayas at altitudes of 23,000 feet, not to mention the cold and wind; all without oxygen like human climbers need.

The annual distance record goes to the Artic Tern, which covers almost 50,000 miles each year.

They migrate between their Arctic summer breeding and winter nonbreeding Antarctic grounds. The longest non-stop flight award goes to the Bar-tailed Godwit, which flies 7,000 miles non-stop.

While the above migratory behaviors are amazing and probably better known, there are some birds which migrate to different elevations during the year. Once again, not seen in our area and more common in mountainous terrain birds migrate to higher elevations in the summer and lower during the winter. And it is assumed this pattern reflects their foraging patterns for food.

If you’re out on a walk or watching your feeders and spot an unusual visitor in the weeks to come, I hope you take the time to appreciate these transient visitors.

So I hope you see some new colors, birds that is, this fall.

Local birding experts Nik and Theresa Hiremath own and operate Wild Birds Unlimited of Leawood at 11711 Roe Avenue, Leawood, Kansas. Contact them at 913-491-4887.

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Patton scheduled to speak at Tree Board Fall Seminar Join the Prairie Village Tree Board’s annual fall seminar on Wed., Sept. 30th from 7 to 8 p.m. The fall seminar this year will be a virtual event with Dennis Patton, Horticulture Agent at Johnson County K-State Research and Extension as the featured speaker. At the seminar titled Recommended Trees, he will discuss trees that would thrive in the Kansas City area. “Emerald ash borer, environmental conditions and maturing neighborhoods have taken a toll on our beloved trees. Replanting for the next generation is important for a healthy community,” according to him.

Patton writes a weekly column about gardening for the Kansas City Star and a monthly column called “Ask the Experts” for The Kansas City Gardener. His conversational writing style and a common-sense approach toward gardening in the Midwest have made him popular with readers over the years.

This virtual seminar is being sponsored by the Prairie Village Tree Board and Johnson County K-State Research and Extension.

People interested in participating in the virtual seminar will need to pre-register at http:// www.johnson.k-state.edu/classes-events/ index.html. Once they sign up they will receive the Zoom link via email. The event is free to the public and there will be time for questions during the seminar.

Missouri Wildflowers Nursery 573-496-3492, fax: 573-496-3003

www.mowildflowers.net mowldflrs@socket.net 9814 Pleasant Hill Rd Jefferson City MO 65109

Meet us at one of these locations in the KC area.

Give us your order by Tuesday before a sale, and we will bring it to the location.

Platte Land Trust Native Plant Sale at the Backyard Bird Center, 6212 NW Barry Road, KC MO 64154. Saturday, September 12, 9 a.m. - 1 p.m.

816-716-3402; www.plattelandtrust.org. Prepaid preorders only.

Missouri Prairie Foundation Native Plant Sale at Anita B. Gorman Conservation Discovery Center, 4750 Troost Ave, Kansas City MO 64110. Saturday, September 19, 11 a.m. to 1:30. Prepaid preorders only.

Deep Roots Native Plant Sale at Prairie Village Swimming Pool Parking Lot, 7711 Delmar Street, Prairie Village KS 66208. Saturday, September 26, 9a.m. to noon. Prepaid preorders only.

Shawnee Indian Mission Foundation - Native Plant Sale at 3403 W. 53rd St, Fairway KS 66205. Saturday, October 10, 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.

Prepaid preorders only.

We’re open week days, year round at the nursery (9814 address above), and weekends now until October 11.

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CASS COUNTY

816-380-8494; Wed, 9am-noon

DOUGLAS COUNTY

785-843-7058; mastergardener@douglas-county.com; Mon-Fri, 1-4pm

GREATER KANSAS CITY MISSOURI AREA

816-833-8733 (TREE); Mon-Fri, 9am-noon; mggkc.hotline@gmail.com

JOHNSON COUNTY, KS

913-715-7050; Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm; garden.help@jocogov.org

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660-747-3193; Wed, 9am-noon

LEAVENWORTH COUNTY

913-364-5700; Apr thru Sep, Mon 10am-4pm, Thurs 10am-4pm

MIAMI COUNTY

913-294-4306; Thurs, 9am-noon

WYANDOTTE COUNTY

913-299-9300; Mon, Wed, Fri, 9am-4pm

QUESTIONS ABOUT ROSES?

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The Kansas City Gardener | September 2020

23

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Select B&B Trees up to 50% Off

Fall into Autumn color with our 2020 Fall Tree sale!

• Prairiefire Crab • Celebration Maple • River Birch Clump And Many More! *Sale Starts 9/8. While supplies last.

Planting is available at Martin City and Lenexa locations only.

105th & Roe (913) 649-8700

K-7 & Prairie Star Pkwy (913) 897-5100

135th & Wornall (816) 942-2921

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