POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST Cycle Trail

BEST FOR: Delving into Northland’s history, which is rich in Māori culture.

BAY OF ISLANDS TO HOKIANGA HARBOUR: 2 days/87km

If you’re hungry to explore both New Zealand’s rolling green terrain and the stories of Māori settlement and European arrival, this 87km journey feeds both.

Take a ride into Aotearoa’s past in the ‘winterless’ north, peddling across a picturesque landscape etched with Māori tales. Following the same tracks once chugged by steam trains, navigate your way from the east coast to the west coast (or vice versa) via bridges and tunnels and country roads from the Bay of Islands to Hokianga Harbour.

Due to Northland’s subtropical climate, the Twin Coast Cycle Trail can be ridden all year round, with rich Māori heritage as consistent as the temperate weather. Look out for a series of pou (carved wooden posts) puncturing the route, as well as enriching marae stays. Suitable for most levels of fitness, with a largely flat landscape that also attracts multiple families, rewards come in the form of legendary fat chips served at the age-old Hōreke Pub, an equally satisfying sunset from its deck and hot mud pools at Ngāwhā Springs in nearby Kaikohe.

Ōkaihau to Hōreke section © Twin Coast Cycle Trail

Riding the trail

Ōpua to Kawakawa

Ōpua is centred around a pretty marina and the car-ferry port for the boat trip to and from historic Russell – a must-visit for history lovers and a great place to start your journey. The trail itself begins alongside the marina following a pretty estuary edged with mangroves – a classic sight along New Zealand’s northern coasts. It then runs beside the tracks of the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway and crosses the beautifully restored bridge to reach Taumarere Station, a nice photo op and a good place to pause for a snack. This section ends all too soon at the bustling rural town of Kawakawa where you will find one of Northland’s looniest tourism attractions – the Hundertwasser toilets adorned with mosaic tiles, sculptures, cobblestone floors and a grassy roof. Cafés, shops, a museum and local Māori artists can also be found in the town.

Kawakawa to Kaikohe

After Kawakawa, the trail passes the sleepy rural town of Moerewa with its old disused wood mill before climbing gently for the next 25km through rolling farmland and pine forest to Kaikohe – Northland’s largest inland town. Highlights of this section include beautiful waterfalls, graceful suspension bridges and the Kaikohe Pioneer Village – a lively museum with complimentary tea, coffee and water for thirsty cyclists. Kaikohe is a handy place to stop with plenty of accommodation, eateries and a couple of supermarkets. The Waiariki hot pools at nearby Ngāwhā Springs will soothe weary legs after a day in the saddle.

Kaikohe to Ōkaihau

The trail climbs gently along an old railway corridor to reach a viewpoint 280m above sea level. After passing through a curved 80m tunnel built in 1915, the trail descends to Lake Ōmāpere, Northland’s largest lake and one steeped in Māori mythology. Another trail highlight is the ford close to Ōkaihau. See if you can whiz through it without getting your feet wet, or just cross the adjacent walkway bridge. This section ends at the tiny settlement of Ōkaihau, which serves the surrounding rural community with a café, takeaways, small supermarket and public toilets.

Ōkaihau to Hōreke

Beyond Ōkaihau, the trail parallels the road passing churches and the war memorial gates, with information panels adding flavour to the ride. Continuing through farmland, riders are greeted by a fabulous view down the Utakura River valley where the trail follows a series of switchbacks. Further on is another highlight – the 1200m-long boardwalk section that snakes through the mangrove estuary connecting to the Hokianga Harbour. Quaint Hōreke, on the shores of the harbour, is a town with history in spades. At the start/finish of the trail is Māngungu Mission (1838–1839) sitting pretty above the Hokianga Harbour. Here is where you can meet the passenger ferry connecting with the quirky craft townships of Kohukohu and Rāwene.

Whether you go east to west or vice versa – you are following in the footsteps of the great travellers Cook and Kupe.

Rainbow Falls © Getty Images

TRAIL INFO

TRAIL GRADES: ŌPUA TO KAWAKAWA, 11KM - GRADE 1 (EASIEST) KAWAKAWA to KAIKOHE 34KM - GRADE 1 (EASIEST) & GRADE 2 (EASY) KAIKOHE TO ŌKAIHAU, 14KM - GRADE 1 (EASIEST) & GRADE 2 (EASY) ŌKAIHAU TO HŌREKE, 28km - GRADE 2 (EASY) & GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good around larger towns and settlements but patchy between Kawakawa and Kaikohe, and Ōkaihau to Hōreke.

DRINKING WATER: Water bottles can be filled at various settlements; be sure to carry plenty on hot summer days.

TYPE OF BIKE: Can be ridden on a hybrid bike, although a mountain bike will ensure maximum comfort and safety, especially on the Grade 3 section from Ōkaihau to Hōreke. E-bikes are also permitted and available through most bike hire operators.

Highlights of the trail

• Te Rito Marae stays in Moerewa.

• Look out for the mini obstacle course not far from Kaikohe.

• Water-fronting sunset views from the historic Hōreke Pub.

• Kemp House in Kerikeri is New Zealand’s oldest European building.

• Grab energy refuelling treats from Len’s Pies & Hot Bread Shop in Kaikohe.

• Haruru Falls are a sight to behold.

• Enjoy the Kawakawa train.

• Paihia makes a gorgeous base for visiting offshore islands.

• Slip into the soothing waters at Ngāwhā Springs and adjoining hot pools at The Temp.

More mountain biking, please

For those keen to keep the spokes spinning, or who have surplus energy to burn, the Waitangi Mountain Bike Park provides a fun-for-all playground with views that will take your breath away as much as the downhill descents. Located in the Bay of Islands, there are almost 50km of varying trails with grades ranging from 2 to 5. Visitors are well looked after with a café, bike hire and a shuttle service, the driver of which will be more than happy to advise you about the trails ahead. Get ready to blow the cobwebs into oblivion as you hurtle your way to the bottom, where a decent coffee awaits.

Bay of... plenty of wine!

The Bay of Islands is not only regarded as the birthplace of the nation but the birthplace of New Zealand wine. It was over 200 years ago, in the township of Kerikeri, when Reverend Samuel Marsden planted a single grapevine into the rich Northland soil. Not long after, Scotsman James Busby established a vineyard near the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and it’s from here that New Zealand’s wine industry flourished into a NZ$1.83 billion export earner.

View from ‘Sage’ at Paroa Bay winery © winefolio.co.nz

4 of the best Northland drops

1. PAROA BAY: One of two vineyards near Russell with fine dining restaurants (the other is Omata Estate) – Paroa Bay’s ‘Sage’ restaurant also offers tastings with a jaw-dropping view.

2. THE LANDING: Expert reviews recently rated this winery as one of the best vineyard experiences in New Zealand. With a private boat transfer and lunch at the luxurious Estate included in the tasting fee, it’s a VIP trip you won’t forget.

3. LONGVIEW ESTATE: Recently sold to new owners, the vineyard’s ‘White Diamond’ wine is made from Niagra table grapes and is proving a hit overseas. It’s now New Zealand’s most expensive wine at over $500 a bottle.

4. MARSDEN ESTATE: Named after Samuel Marsden, the winery is on the outskirts of Kerikeri near the airport. Consistently winning gold medals for their ‘Black Rocks’ Chardonnay, the restaurant overlooks the vines.

‘A Taste of The Landing ‘ © TheLandingNZ.com

Off the saddle

ISLAND HOPPING

Regarded as the hub of the Bay of Islands, Paihia boasts 114 dazzling islands within its reach, the largest being the undeniably beautiful (and very accessible) Urupukapuka Island. A day trip from Paihia Wharf presents lush walks, remnants of historic Māori villages, snorkelling, kayaking and a teal-meets green landscape that is only– marginally – outshone by the bird life.

AQUA ADVENTURES

Back in Paihia, take a kayaking trip around the bay, sail to the famous Hole in the Rock or book a cruise on board a handsome schooner, complete with billowing wind guided sails. Stand on the bow and scour the water for local attention-seekers: back flipping dolphins.

HISTORY

The Waitangi Treaty Grounds is just down the road from Paihia. It is here Māori chiefs and European settlers signed the Treaty of Waitangi. In Russell, New Zealand’s oldest hotel and licensed pub, the Duke of Marlborough, sits before a ribbon of golden beach. Come dusk, the sunsets are dazzling and a sunset cruise is highly recommended.

TE RITO MARAE

Located right on the trail, you can experience an overnight stay at the authentic Te Rito Marae in Moerewa. Enjoy a Māori welcome ceremony, complete with storytelling and home-cooked kai (food) before drifting off to sleep in the shared sleeping quarters, set up in the meeting house (all linen provided). Breakfast is served before departure.

Motuarohia Island / Roberton Island © Northland Tourism

Don’t leave without...

1. Taking a side trip to Haruru Falls

Horseshoe in shape, Haruru means ‘big noise’ in Māori so get ready for a ferocious display. Just 5km from Paihia, pull into the car park and walk two minutes down the track, past daring youngsters flinging themselves off a rope-swing into the lagoon. You can also walk here from the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in 90 minutes or paddle your way upstream from Paihia on a rented kayak.

2. Riding the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway

With four steam trains running Friday to Sunday (and every day during school holidays), you can experience the golden age of rail travel with a vintage train ride in Kawakawa. Riding the rails on a section of the former Opua track and chugging its way to Long Bridge – the longest curved wooden bridge in the southern hemisphere – appreciate the finery of a working steam engine in all its handsome glory.

3. Sinking into Ngāwhā Springs

Te Waiariki Ngāwhā Springs is closed for renovation until February 2021. If you’re here before their grand re-opening, check out The Temp, a series of eight pools in a smaller setting situated right behind Te Waiariki Ngāwhā Springs. Starting at $5 per adult for one hour in a public pool, it’s bliss for the wallet as well as the body.

View point at Waitangi Bike Park © Waitangi Bike Park

Kerikeri: 3 ways

1. SOAK UP THE HISTORY

With Westerners arriving in Aotearoa in 1642 and leaving a distinctly European stamp, it’s hard to visualise how Māori communities once lived, but Kerikeri is one of the best places to see just that. Mission Station, first established in 1819 by missionary Samuel Marsden, houses New Zealand’s oldest historical buildings from the colonial days, and is also in proximity to Kororipo Pā, a terraced fortress that was once the home of Hongi Hika, a revered Māori chief. Rewa’s Village is a full-scale replica of a pre-European Māori fishing village and, thanks to these settlements, history lives on.

2. FIND AN IDYLLIC HANGOUT

Rainbow Falls are as pretty as the name suggests. Just 10 minutes from the centre of Kerikeri, the water spills with a thunderous grace over a 27m-high ledge. Arguably New Zealand’s best kept secret, Aroha Island is a short 12km drive from Kerikeri, accessed via causeway or, if you’re feeling adventurous, by kayak. This 12-hectare sanctuary is an Eden of diverse plant and birdlife, enveloped by glistening water. For walkers, the Kerikeri River Track follows the river bank to Wharepuke Falls and its peaceful swimming hole. Dry off and move on to the next dazzling swimming spot called Fairy Pools.

3. EAT UP!

Watch the chocolatiers at Makana chocolate factory create their treats and sample the results before heading to the shop. As if that was the end of the sweet deliciousness; there’s also a nice cream parlour on site. Stock up on a range of fresh produce, crafts and vintage clothing at Kerikeri’s Old Packhouse Market: the Bay of Islands’ largest market

Kororipo Heritage Park © Northland Tourism