KAIPARA Missing Link

BEST FOR: Seekers of shipwrecks and ghost stories.

DARGAVILLE to AUCKLAND: 2-3 days/118km

Kaipara Missing Link provides a connection between Auckland and Northland’s touring routes as well as Great Rides including the Kauri Coast, Far North and Twin Coast cycleways. It’s a route etched with spooky landmarks.

Once you’ve soaked up every Dargaville charm, cycle south-west towards Pōuto Pt, located on the bottom tip of Pōuto Peninsula. This long and exposed bulb of land captivates visitors with its ever-shifting sands, petrified kauri forest and eerie sailor stories. Cycle along a wind-whipped beach harassed by an explosive ocean. As you draw closer to Pōuto Pt, you’ll be confronted with the Valley of the Wrecks and The Graveyard, haunting monikers coined from the area’s turbulent seafaring history that has left 150 shipwrecks stranded on its sandbars. Considered one of the most treacherous stretches in the country, skeleton vessels chewed up and spat out by the Tasman Sea lie motionless on the sand.

At Pōuto Pt, board a boat heading for Parakai. You’ll be crossing the calm and picturesque Kaipara Harbour before continuing towards the Victorian village of Helensville, and dropping into Auckland, the dazzling City of Sails.

TOP TIP: The boat across Kaipara Harbour is not a commercial ferry and only operates for groups and charters. Fortunately, several charter services, including fish charters, operate in the area so an option is to link up with one of these.

Riding the trail

DARGAVILLE TO PŌUTO PT, 65KM

Cycle west from Dargaville on River Rd, which becomes Pōuto Rd. At the 11km mark is the village of Te Kōpuru, which has a general store. There are two options from Te Kōpuru – the beach ride or the road. The beach ride is the best way to go when the wind direction is favourable, but note that it’s only possible to ride on the beach within 2.5hr either side of low tide, so check the tide times carefully before committing. To reach the beach, turn right onto West Coast Rd, then left onto Redhill Rd, right onto Glinks Rd and cycle out to the coast. For the road option, simply continue from Te Kōpuru along Pōuto Rd directly to Pōuto Pt. It’s worth taking the detour down to Kellys Bay; look for the left turn down a gravel road at around the 45km mark (from Dargaville). You can then take the steep gravel-road climb out of the back to loop back to Pōuto Rd 5km further southwest.

A boat trip can be arranged across Kaipara Harbour from Pōuto Village to Parakai, 3km from Helensville. The Kaipara Harbour crossing will need to be arranged in advance, with the main options being Kaipara Cruises or a charter service. It’s also worth considering taking a fishing trip, which will not only get you across the harbour but make a real adventure of it! At 7.1km when passing Maxwell Rd, look left to see the smallest church in New Zealand. An entertaining and interesting 1hr show about a vegetable can be seen here. Pōuto Pt is a timeless Kiwi bach town. 2km before town is the beautiful Waikāretu Marae. If you book in advance you can be welcomed on with a pōwhiri before enjoying a meal and local stories. Bike wash facilities available, showers and accommodation in the marae or a place to pitch your tent. Phone Ella on 027 277 7797. Alternatively ride into Pōuto and turn left up Signal Station Rd for 200m to get to the Marine Hall and camping or go straight down to the beach to catch the boat. If staying in Pōuto, a 9km ride on the beach will take you to the foot of the lighthouse up on the sand dune.

PŌUTO PT TO AUCKLAND CENTRAL, 53KM

The cross-harbour boat trip will take you to Parakai, 3km from Helensville. Parakai is known for its geothermal water recreation centre complete with large indoor and outdoor pools, hydroslides, BBQ and picnic areas. Helensville is a good place to break the journey overnight. As well as having plenty of visitor accommodation, there’s also great antique and collectable shops, cafés and hotels housed in pretty Victorian buildings. The route to Auckland continues from Helensville’s main street; simply head right up any side street and you will reach Garfield Rd. Turn right along Garfield Rd, which becomes Wishart Rd and then Old North Rd where it meets Inland Rd on the left. Keep on Old North Rd until Nixon Rd (also known as Taupaki Rd), which becomes Red Hills Rd as it leads to the West Auckland suburb of Massey (19km from downtown Auckland). Your best bet for navigating your way into the city centre is to look up the Auckland Transport Cycle Route maps; many of the routes are well-signposted.

TRAIL INFO

TRAIL GRADES:

DARGAVILLE TO PŌUTO POINT, 65KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

PŌUTO POINT TO AUCKLAND CENTRAL, 53KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Available at Dargaville and Parakai, and from Helensville south.

DRINKING WATER: There are no shops at Pōuto. Supplies can be purchased at Dargaville, Te Kōpuru, Parakai, Helensville and Auckland.

TYPE OF BIKE: Touring bikes and mountain bikes are suitable for the terrain. E-bikes, with sufficient battery capacity, are also suitable.

KAIPARA HARBOUR CRUISING: Crossings can be made via Kaipara Cruises P: +64 9 420 8466 or +64 27 497 0654 www.kaiparacruises.co.nz

Highlights of the trail

• Detour to Pōuto Lighthouse: New Zealand’s oldest wooden lighthouse. Climb the sandy bluff for views across the Valley of the Wrecks and Tasman Sea.

• Kellys Bay is a small rural seaside community with a good beach and great fishing.

• Rejuvenate weary legs at Palm Springs in Parakai which taps into natural thermal springs.

• Visit Kumeū’s various wineries. Popular options are Soljans, Coopers Creek and Kumeū River Wines, all conveniently sitting in proximity to one another.

• Hallertau Brewery shouldn’t be missed if you like good ale, hearty food and live music.

• Try a spot of frisbee golf or swoosh through the trees on flying foxes in Woodhill Forest.

• Helensville features restored Victorian buildings housing cafés and shops selling collectables.

• Enjoy Helensville’s Railway Museum and Riverside Walkway as well as fishing charters and harbour cruises.

• Riverhead Tavern is slightly off your main route but its heritage dates back over 150 years.

Pōuto © Getty Images

More mountain biking, please

1. RIVERHEAD MOUNTAIN BIKING

Cycle 40-minutes out of Kumeū to Riverhead Forest. The free purpose-built compound boasts trails for all skill levels, as well as Auckland’s best pump tracks. N.B. Winters are wet, making it more of a fair-weather park.

2. WOODHILL MOUNTAIN BIKING

Open year-round, Woodhill is a 40-minute ride in the opposite direction to Riverhead Forest. A great spot for beginner and intermediate riders, it has sandy tracks. Entry incurs a fee, but facilities include a shop, café and bike rental.

Cycling at Woodhill © Woodhill Forest