11 minute read
OTAGO CENTRAL Rail Trail
CLYDE to MIDDLEMARCH - 1-5 days, 152km
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It’s the cycle trail that put many of the South Island’s small, forgotten towns back on the map. By encompassing all that is warm and welcoming about Central Otago, this former railway track provides an incredibly wholesome experience, and one that is largely nurtured by the locals.
Get ready for some good old Southern hospitality. Over the course of five days and 152km, you’ll bank many friendly encounters. All off-road and with no traffic to contend with, there’s only expansive terrain and self-reliant townships rich in craftmanship. Country cafés serve coffee and home-made cakes, while the wineries celebrate the region’s grape offerings. You can admire the tough grind of a working farm or discover how New Zealand’s world famous wool is grown.
Open year-round, the trail can be started from either end (Clyde or Middlemarch), or broken into shorter 1-4 day-rides to suit your agenda. The experience is designed to be slow, so you can dismount frequently and consume both the delicious scenery and local flavours.
The landscape is crawling with railway stations, tunnels and viaducts, as well as fascinating remnants from the gold rush era, including towns that still feature mud-brick walls and stone buildings. For every charming country pub, there are old-world general stores. If anything, you’ve cycled back in time; yesteryear’s simplicities are both the secret and the seduction of Central Otago.
TRAIL INFO
TRAIL GRADES ALL GRADE 1 (EASIEST)
CLYDE TO CHATTO CREEK, 25KM
CHATTO CREEK TO LAUDER, 19KM
LAUDER TO ŌTŪRĒHUA, 22.5KM
ŌTŪRĒHUA TO RANFURLY, 25.5KM
RANFURLY TO HYDE, 32.5KM
HYDE TO MIDDLEMARCH, 27.5KM
MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is decent for the majority of the trail, but gets weak or nonexistent in more remote sections.
DRINKING WATER: Fill up your water bottles before you leave your accommodation each day, and refill (or purchase more) as you pass through the settlements.
TYPE OF BIKE: A hybrid or mountain bike is recommended. E-bikes are also permitted.
Riding the trail
CLYDE TO CHATTO CREEK, 25KM
Allow plenty of time to explore historic Clyde before you set off. The trail is well signposted from the centre of town. Not long into the journey, it crosses its first railway curiosity – Muttontown Viaduct – one of the trail’s only two wooden trestle bridges without stone abutments. Orchards, vineyards and pasture line the route to Alexandra, the trail’s largest town, from where it heads through old gold diggings and high-country farms – home to the world’s finest merino sheep. Schist outcrops scraggle a landscape cut through by the willow-lined Manuherikia River. This section ends at Chatto Creek where there’s a charming country pub.
CHATTO CREEK TO LAUDER, 19KM
Continue through the irrigated lower Manuherikia Valley before ascending the sweeping S-bend up Tiger Hill. At Ōmakau, riders can detour to a noteworthy old bridge and yet another charming country town, Ophir. It boasts well-preserved mud-brick and stone buildings from the gold rush, including the photogenic Post Office. Back at Ōmakau, the trail meanders through a lovely open landscape flanked by the Dunstan and Raggedy ranges. At Lauder, admire a clutch of rustic old buildings and breathe in the crisp air – said to be some of the purest on the planet.
LAUDER TO ŌTŪRĒHUA, 22.5KM
As you set off on this easy roll through rugged terrain, spare a thought for the 300 workers who took three years to build the two tunnels and two impressive bridges along the way. Manuherikia No.1 Bridge is first up, from where the trail climbs gradually into the stunning Poolburn Gorge to pass through the two tunnels that cut through sheer schist – 201m and 230m long respectively. The trail then crosses the 108m-long Poolburn Viaduct before descending past the old Auripo and Ida Valley stations, and Ida Burn Dam where the ancient sport of curling is played when it freezes over. Ōtūrēhua is a veritable goldmine of local history – don’t miss Hayes Engineering Works & Homestead and the totally eye-popping Gilchrist’s Store. From Ōtūrēhua, it’s possible to take the highly recommended detour to St Bathans – worth visiting for its man-made lake (great for swimming) along with a clutch of historic buildings including a crusty pub. It’s a 20km ride to get there, some reasonable hill climbs en route. Bike back to Ōtūrēhua for a 40km total off trail detour, or rejoin the trail further east at Idaburn, a 39km total off trail detour.
ŌTŪRĒHUA TO RANFURLY, 25.5KM
The latitude line of 45 degrees south is the first notable landmark beyond Ōtūrēhua, follow the intersection with Reefs Rd where a detour may be made to the Golden Progress Mine site and its wooden poppet head. There are splendid views of the Hawkdun and Ida ranges as the trail climbs gently to its high point of 618m above sea level. A little further along is the Wedderburn Goods Shed made famous by lauded landscape artist Grahame Sydney. It’s a good spot for contemplation before the cruise downward across the Māniototo Plains. Before you hit Ranfurly, it’s worth considering a side-trip or overnight stop in Naseby. Around 10km off the trail, Naseby is a little winner with its two lovely old pubs, indoor curling rink, unusual swimming dam and forested MTB trails suitable for all ages. Another 25km on from Naseby is Dansey’s Pass, a one-horse town well off the beaten track, famous for its rustic hotel. Unless you’re super fit and eager, the distance and nature of the terrain make this detour best suited to driving. Back on the main trail, this section ends at the sweet little country town of Ranfurly, notable for its art deco architecture and a smattering of serviceable shops and cafés.
RANFURLY TO HYDE, 32.5KM
This section offers broad views of the Kakanui Mountains and Ida Range as it heads towards Waipīata, where it’s worth cycling up to the historic Hamilton cemetery for expansive views of the surroundings. As the trail leaves the Māniototo Plain, it skirts the sunken depression where Lake Taieri used to be before it was silted up by gold miners. The trail passes yet another rustic gangers’ shed at Kokonga, then enters the upper Taieri Gorge. This pretty section passes the old Red Dwarf gangers’ hut at Daisybank, and at Tiroiti there’s a well-preserved stone bridge with iron trusses. Further along at Price’s Creek is a notable viaduct followed by a 152m-long, fully bricked tunnel. The trail then enters the open and dramatic country of Strath Taieri Plain. The old gold-mining town of Hyde is a popular place to break the journey.
HYDE TO MIDDLEMARCH, 27.5KM
Check out the Hyde Railway Station before continuing on an easy downhill ride into the Strath Taieri Plain and its many bridges and culverts. Just south of Hyde Station, a memorial cairn commemorates the site of the region’s worst rail disaster in which 21 were killed in 1943. The trail traverses the foothills of the 1400m high Rock and Pillar Range with its huge rocky outcrops, before meandering through the valley’s productive farmland to the Ngāpuna Station site. In the east is the 700m high Taieri Ridge. The trail finally reaches its end at Middlemarch.
Highlights of the trail
• Breathe in the Central Otago air, said to be some of the purest on the planet, and drink Central Otago wine at one of the many acclaimed cellar doors.
• Meet the people of Central Otago and experience authentic southern hospitality.
• In Poolburn Gorge, two tunnels cut through sheer schist – an impressive 201m and 230m long respectively.
• The town of Ranfurly is famed for its curling. With both indoor and outdoor rinks, go and give it a whirl (or should that be curl)!
Ranfurly countryside © Getty Images
• Orchards and vineyards line the track to Alexandra and a cruise on the Clutha River is highly recommended.
• Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead is a gold mine of local history in Ōtūrēhua.
• Gilchrist’s general store has original 19th century products on its shelves.
• The now iconic Wedderburn Goods Shed was first made famous by landscape artist Grahame Sydney and has since been bolstered by Instagram users.
• All the train tracks have been removed, but many old railway stations remain intact.
• The town of Ophir features preserved mudbrick and stone buildings from the gold-rush era, including a handsome Post Office.
• Ganger sheds freckle the trail. Formerly used by ‘working gangs’ (the men responsible for track maintenance), the sheds provided shelter and a space for ‘smoko’ breaks.
Naseby town centre © James Jubb
Cycling through history
Otago Central Rail Trail © Central Otago Tourism
A momentous accomplishment, the Otago Central Railway was once an economic lifeline for the Central Otago region. Built to connect Dunedin with Central Otago, the rack took 16 years to complete and was finished in 1907.
It truly is a testament to human endeavour – the detailed workmanship of the stone bridges and tunnel facings have stood the test of time and the mountains still bear scars of the races, built back in the 1860s to bring water to the gold mines.
Steam trains chugged along this railway line for 83 years, but once the roads were improved and the gold rush was long over, the line was officially closed in 1990 and the railway tracks removed, leaving a long, relatively flat path through Central Otago – what better place for a cycling journey?
Nowadays, the Department of Conservation and the Otago Central Rail Trail Trust manage the trail and have turned it into an adventure of its own merits. The countless reminders of the railway and gold rush, including long, dark tunnels, trestle and stone bridges, abandoned gold diggings and the remains of mining machinery, old stone and mudbrick dwellings and beautifully preserved gold-mining settlements, showcase our pioneering history like never before.
WATCH THIS SPACE: LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL
Providing a key link with the Otago Central Rail Trail, The Lake Dunstan Trail is currently under development and will connect the townships of Clyde and Cromwell. Starting or finishing west of Cromwell and at Clyde, on this ride, modern marvels meet Māori heritage and pioneering stories leak from every gap in the path. All geared up to be 52km of grade 1-2 terrain, taking between one and two days to complete.
Stop-offs
Forest walk, Naseby © Central Otago Tourism
Alexandra: The town's iconic clockface which overlooks the landscape is enormous. For wine lovers, the region specialises in pinot noir and cellar doors are numerous. Visit Como Villa Estate for its traditional mason buildings and fascinating history.
Chatto Creek: Duck into the Chatto Creek Tavern and buy some ‘donkey doos’ – a delicious mix of malt biscuits and dried fruit, they’re perfect for kilojoule-burning bikers. Next door is New Zealand’s smallest post office. In 1892 it was just a tent insulated with newspapers.
Ranfurly: Well known for its striking art deco buildings, the Centennial Milk Bar is striking.
Ōmakau: A former mining town in rural countryside, pretty historic buildings are set against Dunstan Mountains.
Ōtūrēhua: Small but historic, Ōtūrēhua is home to both the famous Hayes Engineering Works and Gilchrist's Store. The former was established in 1895 by millwright turned engineer, Ernest Hayes. Wander through the inventor's former home, marvelling at his work. The latter, an eclectic general store, opened in 1902 and still looks the same.
Naseby: Discover two lovely old pubs, ice rinks, an unusual swimming dam, and forested mountain biking trails.
Middlemarch: Overlooked by the Rock and Pillar mountain range, find cosy pubs, a salt-water lake and small museum.
Clyde: Cradled in a basin at the base of an enormous gorge, Clyde was flooded by the nearby hydro dam, but the surviving town centre was declared an historic precinct.
Onward to Dunedin
Larnach Castle © DunedinNZ
It’s wild and rugged: The surf breaks along Dunedin’s coastline will put hairs on your chest, but Dunedin’s inhabitants, much like their Scottish cousins, adore their unruly landscape. As do royal albatross: the world’s only colony is perched on the Otago Peninsula.
It’s cosy: A coffee shop crawl will take you to some of the best nooks for a hot brew. Try Vogel Street Kitchen for brunch made from local ingredients (think free-farmed bacon and fresh eggs) or Modaks Espresso if you fancy good coffee in a shabby-chic student setting.
There are lovely suburbs: Karitāne is a lovely outlying seaside village with a great beach north of the city, and you can walk to the lively area of Mornington in 30 minutes.
Students are everywhere: Edinburgh has its prestigious namesake university and Dunedin is home to Otago University – resulting in a lively mix of bookish austerity and youthful energy.
History abounds: Dunedin boasts a dashing display of heritage buildings, including many examples of Victorian and Edwardian architecture. In fact, nothing quite beats the city’s elaborate Gingerbread House, aka its striking railway station. This is also the venue for The Otago Farmers’ Market held every Saturday from 8am.
They brew a good brew: While the Scots love their whisky, the good folk of Dunedin love their beer. Speight’s Brewery has been pouring a top-quality Dunedin beer for over 140 years.
There’s a famous castle: Edinburgh’s is on a hill and Dunedin’s is on the city outskirts. Unlike its Scottish brethren, New Zealand hosts just one castle, going by the name of Larnach Castle. With beautiful gardens and a regal ballroom and grandiose tower, it makes a great day out. Visitors can also stay overnight on the estate.
MAIN IMAGE ABOVE: Otago Central Rail Trail © Otago Central Rail Trail
