8 minute read
MOUNTAINS TO SEA Trails
BEST FOR: Enjoying the connected pathways that navigate riders from Tūroa to Whanganui, coordinating your journey to suit your time and abilities.
TŪROA, OHAKUNE TO WHANGANUI
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1-6 days/231km (32km river)
Start your Mountains to Sea – Ngā Ara Tūhono adventure at Tūroa skifield. Local tour operators will deposit you 1700m above sea level on the lofty slopes of Mt Ruapehu. Relish the distant views of Mt Taranaki before releasing the brakes for an exhilarating descent back to Ohakune.
It’s from here the actual leg work begins. Covering 231km, the trail is split into six segments, parts of which require a boat ride to get across the almighty Whanganui River. The trail is typically completed in four to six days but if you’re hard-core, two to three days is not unheard of. You can also enjoy each section as a separate one-day excursion.
There are eerie yet enticing tunnels and long-forgotten viaducts, including the impressive 284m-long Hapuawhenua railway viaduct. Gain an insight into post-war life all along the Mangapurua Track, culminating in the fascinating Bridge to Nowhere. This handsome feature marks the route’s last stamp of civilisation before all hopes of settlement were abandoned.
The nearby Mangapurua Landing is your launch pad to reach Pīpīriki by jet boat. Alternatively, swap the pedals for paddles and navigate this stretch of the Whanganui River by canoe; your bikes travel ahead by shuttle.
Once reunited with your wheels, the River Rd leads all the way to Whanganui City, via artist studios, flour mills and convents. Clapping eyes on the Tasman Sea signifies the end of your journey, but the final hurrah should include watching the sunset at North Mole.
Bridge to Nowhere, Mountains to Sea Trails © Visit Ruapahu
TRAIL INFO
TRAIL GRADES
OHAKUNE MOUNTAIN RD: GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) OHAKUNE OLD COACH RD: GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) RUATITI RD & MIDDLE RD: GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MANGAPŪRUA TRACK: GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) MANGAPŪRUA LANDING TO PĪPĪRIKI (32KM RIVER RIDE) WHANGANUI RIVER RD: GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) ŪPOKONGARO TO TASMAN SEA: GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good around Ohakune, National Park and Whanganui. Cannot be relied upon in outlying areas and is virtually non-existent in the wilds of Whanganui National Park.
DRINKING WATER: Available in towns and settlements along the trail; water sources on the backcountry sections but boiling or treating is recommended. Taking sufficient supplies for the full day is preferable to filling up en route.
TYPE OF BIKE: A mountain bike is essential for all but the most urban of rides. E-bikes are permitted on sections up to Grade 3, although consider sufficient battery charge. Note: E-bikes are permitted on all parts of the track, however riders must be capable of lifting their bikes onto narrow bridges, or riding through the trail in the event the battery fails.
Riding the trail
OHAKUNE MOUNTAIN RD, 16KM - From Ohakune town, local shuttles ferry you up to Tūroa skifield, 1700m above sea level on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu. It’s an exhilarating 1000m descent back to Ohakune along 17km of sealed road.
OHAKUNE OLD COACH RD, 15KM - One of New Zealand’s best half-day rides, following an historic byway. From the Ohakune Rail Station, the first few kilometres follow Old Station Rd and Marshalls Rd before reaching the trailhead where a series of info panels retell the Coach Rd’s fascinating story.
Wind up along the old cobbled road into Tongariro National Park passing through ancient forest with giant rimu and tōtara, spiky mountain cabbage trees, ferns and feathery toe-toe. A highlight is the beautifully restored 284m Hapuawhenua railway viaduct. The trail then reaches Taonui Viaduct, smaller and in a state of rusty repair. The trail emerges from a patch of forest into a pretty meadow near the trail’s end at Horopito.
RUATITI RD & MIDDLE RD, 45KM - Ruatiti Rd and Middle Rd link the Old Coach Rd section with the start of the Mangapūrua Track. Overall, the ride is downhill, losing around 400m in elevation over 45km. However, some steep climbs make it best suited to fit cyclists. From Horopito, follow the off-road trail signage for 30km along Middle Rd and up Ruatiti Rd to the Ruatiti Domain (camping and toilets) along the meandering Manganui o te Ao River. The gravel road climbs along the valley for the final 15km to the start of the Mangapūrua Track.
MANGAPŪRUA TRACK, 36KM - From the trailhead at the end of Ruatiti Rd, the trail climbs through farmland and regenerating native bush to the junction with the Kaiwhakauka Track. It’s a little more climbing to reach Mangapūrua Trig, a great spot to stop and take in the views. It’s downhill virtually all the way from the trig, the trail wending through the remote and rather beautiful Mangapūrua Valley in which a series of old farm sites are signposted. You will pass remains of original settlements and the iconic Bridge to Nowhere. From the bridge, it’s only 3km to the Mangapūrua Landing, where you will start your jet boat/kayak journey down the Whanganui River. This section of the trail is seasonal and maybe weather affected so do check mountainstosea.nz/trailstatus for updates.
MANGAPŪRUA LANDING TO PĪPĪRIKI, 32KM RIVER RIDE - There are two ways of getting to Pīpīriki, neither of which is on a bike! The easiest and most common is to be collected by the pre-booked jet boat for the invigorating 32km buzz down the river (bikes stowed on board).
WHANGANUI RIVER RD, 67KM - Quiet rural riding through an interesting slice of New Zealand history, stopping at Jerusalem to explore or stay at the convent, explore the historic Kawana Flourmill or a bite to eat and a chat at the Matahiwi Gallery. Marae and other settlements make this a delightful section of riding.The river road ends with the fairly hefty climb over Aramoana Hill and a well-deserved 3km swoop down to the junction of SH 4. It’s another 3km again to Ūpokongaro village.
ŪPOKONGARO TO TASMAN SEA, 19KM - From Ūpokongaro, the trail follows SH 4 for a short distance then crosses the new Ūpokongaro bridge. It then follows the new cycle trail by the river into the city. The riverside boardwalk detours into backstreets before returning to trace the river to the Tasman Sea. Follow your nose, or keep an eye out for the cycle trail signage to keep on track. The trail ends at North Mole, a moody, driftwood-strewn beach on the northern side of the Whanganui River breakwater.Head back to the city along the same route or explore the bohemian suburb of Castlecliff with its café and galleries. A day or so in Whanganui is a great way to bookend your journey.Please see mountainstosea.nz for official track status updates.
ALTERNATIVE START: NATIONAL PARK VILLAGE TO MANGAPŪRUA TRIG, 68KM - From National Park Railway Station follow Fishers Track (Grade 2) down through bush into the Retaruke Valley and along gravel roads to the War Memorial Monument at the junction of Upper Retaruke and Oio Rd. Continue along Oio Rd to Whakahoro and the Kaiwhakauka Track (Grade 4). Travel through farmland before joining the official trail at Mangapūrua Track. This route is slightly shorter but does include a Grade 4 section.
Tongariro National Park © Visit Ruapehu
Highlights of the trail
• Mellonsfolly Ranch is a purposebuilt cowboy village tucked deep into native bush. Deliberately remote, the saloon-town has Miss Nancy Ann’s Hotel for overnight stays.
• Explore two of New Zealand’s famed national parks: Tongariro, a volcanic wonderland, and Whanganui National Park, home to wild native bush and an even wilder river.
• During your descent of Mt Ruapehu, there are several walking tracks that lead to jaw-dropping waterfalls, including the highest one in Tongariro National Park – Waitonga Falls.
• The Whanganui River is the longest navigable river in the country. Row a canoe, book a jet boat or skirt the embankment by bike.
• The Bridge to Nowhere is 38m high and enveloped by verdant bush. There’s a picnic bench, history boards and enormous eels skulking in the water below.
• The 284m-long Hapuawhenua railway viaduct is 45m high and skims the treetops.
• On the way to the Bridge to Nowhere, Battleship Bluff arises from the Earth, so called because it resembles the enormous prow of a battleship.
• In the tiny settlement of Jerusalem (Hiruhārama in Māori) a nunnery was established in 1892 by the church. You can stay overnight at the convent, but booking in advance is a must.
• Visit the reconstructed colonial cottage and museum at Kawana Flour Mill. Built in 1854 and since restored, the mill boasts its original waterwheel and grinding stones.
• Salvaged from the bottom of the Whanganui River, the restored paddle steamer Waimaire provides leisurely river cruises from Whanganui city.
• Fishers Track is a bonus 27km, Grade 3 course through Tongariro National Park. It’s not an easy 2-3 hours, but it does reward the bold with beauty. Kaiwhakauka Track is for the true masochist. This 16km track is two to four hours of Grade 4 pain with narrow, technical tracks.
Mellonsfolly Ranch © Visit Ruapehu
Whanganui City
Whanganui City rests on the banks of its namesake river. The famed Durie Hill Elevator is burrowed 213m into hillside and you can take the antique elevator 65.8m to the summit. At the top there are views spanning as far as Mt Taranaki and Mt Ruapehu. Afterward, catch a short ride on Mable, a restored tram, visit The Sarjeant Gallery or make your own paperweight at New Zealand Glassworks.
© New Zealand Glassworks
Add-on Heartland Ride
Mountains to Sea Connection: 45km/3–4 hours A pleasant jaunt across volcanic plateau, this quiet route passes a couple of scenic reserves.
Ohakune–Taihape Trail (OTT): 77km/5–7 hours Starting at Ohakune Junction, this is the safest route for cyclists between Ohakune and Taihape.
