12 minute read
TASMAN'S GREAT TASTE TRAIL
NELSON ROUND TRIP - 2-4 days - 177km
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Breathe in the tonic that is crisp, ocean air along the sparkling shores of Kaiteriteri, or watch a master glassblower manipulate great coils of molten glass; admire an army of grape vines falling into formation or sip the end result: a cool drop of snappy chardonnay. This is one hedonistic ride.
Tasman’s Great Taste Trail
Virginia Woolf Photography
A trail with many options, all 177km of it is dipped in art galleries and boutique shops, fruit stalls, cafés, craft beer and wineries. Absorb the rural, urban, coastal and riverside scenery, with delightful forays into Tasman Bay towns. Those looking for short hops and day rides are just as welcome as those after a full-blown, four-day affair.
As is common in New Zealand, looking seaward is steeped with reward: from Nelson, it’s not far to the bird-filled Waimea Inlet. As the largest enclosed estuary in the South Island, a wide range of seabirds will enchant. Other highlights include the causeway to Rabbit Island/ Moturoa. Popular for its picnic spots, pine forest and sandy beaches, a pleasant jaunt across the island leads to Ferry Landing. Pop your bike on the boat and enjoy a 200m hop to Māpua, where the cafés and shops are bountiful.
Further along the route, the coastal pathway is licked with a salty breeze, while inland settlements such as Brightwater and Wakefield are pretty much paved with wine. For experiences that will arouse your internal fear detector, crossing the swing bridge over Waimea River, and later, spooky Spooners Tunnel will enthral.
TRAIL INFO
NELSON TO MĀPUA, 35KM - GRADE 1 (EASIEST)
MĀPUA TO MOTUEKA, 26KM- GRADE 2-3 (EASY-INTERMEDIATE)
MOTUEKA TO KAITERITERI, 16KM - GRADE 2-3 (EASYINTERMEDIATE)
RICHMOND TO WAKEFIELD, 17KM - GRADE 1 (EASIEST)
WAKEFIELD TO KOHATU, 25KM - GRADE 2 (EASY)
KOHATU TO TAPAWERA, 8KM -GRADE 2 (EASY) New section will be complete October 2020
TAPAWERA TO RIWAKA, 50KM - GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) On-road section
MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good across the coastal section. Gaps in reception on some of the inland sections south of Wakefield and Motueka.
DRINKING WATER: Water bottles can be filled at various settlements; be sure to carry plenty on hot summer days.
TYPE OF BIKE: A hybrid bike is suitable unless you plan on tackling the Kaiteriteri MTB park.
MĀPUA FERRY: The 200m, 7min ferry journey across Māpua Inlet will take you between Rabbit Island and Māpua Wharf and back again. This is the only way to make the crossing; the alternative route is a hilly 15km via busy SH 60 and not recommended. Check the timetable ahead of time as sailings are infrequent.
RIDING THE TRAIL
NELSON TO MĀPUA, 35KM - This section starts at Nelson i-SITE and heads in the direction of adjacent Richmond town via the railway reserve cycleway. After a gentle up-and-over, it exits the central city and follows a waterside pathway between Nelson’s major highway and light industrial area, and the bird-filled Waimea Inlet. As the trail nears Richmond it splits in two, with the right fork leading towards Māpua on a mix of quiet lanes and a stopbank track. It then crosses the Waimea River via a purpose-built suspension bridge. (At Richmond, the straight-ahead option leads to the town centre and further inland via the Wakefield section.) The trail then crosses a causeway to Rabbit Island/ Moturoa, a popular recreation area. It’s a pleasant cruise across the island to reach the ferry landing, then it’s just a 200m boat hop to Māpua Wharf.
MĀPUA TO MOTUEKA, 26KM - Having left Māpua via quiet streets, the trail rejoins the shore along Ruby Bay but soon leaves it again to head into rolling hill country. Most folks will find it a comfortable granny-gear climb to a highpoint where there are panoramic views across to the western ranges and big blue of Tasman Bay. There’s plenty of time to take it all in as the trail gradually descends via the aptly named Tasman View Rd. After a few turns left and right along more country roads you’ll arrive at Motueka.
MOTUEKA TO KAITERITERI, 16KM - This section starts with the salt-licked sights of Motueka’s seafront then crosses the impressive Motueka River. The trail then follows pretty country lanes to reach Riwaka where you should keep your eyes peeled for a pie shop, café, brewery and fruit stalls. Be warned that if you ate before setting off from Motueka, you could still be too full for a Ginger Dynamite pie… (Riwaka is the junction of the inland trail heading up the Motueka Valley towards Norris Gully.) The trail continues through fruity country to meet a lovely stretch of coastal pathway, at first winding over bridges and boardwalk. A gentle climb reveals stupendous views right across Tasman Bay. An underpass provides safe access to Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park. Riders without much ‘mountain biking’ experience should still enjoy this gently rolling and sweeping route through to Kaiteriteri village. Riders are reminded to be careful as this is single trail with some blind corners and bikers travelling in both directions. Kaiteriteri Beach’s glorious golden sands teem with holidaymakers in summer. The waterfront café is a good spot to take it all in. Various Abel Tasman National Park adventures also start from here.
RICHMOND TO WAKEFIELD, 17KM - This section heads off on an inland tangent, taking in the country settlements of Brightwater and Wakefield. If you are prepared to explore off the trail there are several wine tasting opportunities here. Rich in history and home to 2000 people, Wakefield is a pleasant place to rest a while or break your journey overnight. Leaving Richmond (bottom Queen St), the trail passes through vineyards to reach Ranzau Rd, then turns a couple of corners to meet Pugh Rd and eventually the Waimea River. An impressive suspension bridge takes you to the other side. Off the bridge, it’s a left turn towards Brightwater, a welcoming place to stop for refreshments before heading onwards. Charlotte Lane then leads riders out of Brightwater, through an underpass, on to Lord Rutherford and Higgins roads and into the heart of Wakefield village via Edward St.
WAKEFIELD TO KOHATU, 25KM - Cross the bridge on Pigeon Valley Rd and turn left to follow the off-road trail beside the Wai-iti River to Hoult Valley Rd. The trail runs alongside the main road (for just over 1km) to Wai-iti domain, re-joining the Wai-iti River on picturesque off-road trail until it reaches Belgrove. Check out the Belgrove Railway Windmill (built 1897) as you pass through town. The trail shadows the road for a while then joins the old Nelson Railway route through pastoral countryside and past historic tobacco kilns until it reaches the seriously spectacular Spooners Tunnel. The railway line was in use up until 1955, when its closure was met by major protests. The 1400m-long Spooners Tunnel is now New Zealand’s longest decommissioned rail tunnel. It’s also the sixth-longest pedestrian and cycle tunnel in the world, and the longest in the southern hemisphere. Suffice to say, it’s pretty dark in there, so you’ll need to carry a torch if you want to survey the interior and avoid getting spooked, although we think a spot of spookiness is all part of its charm. A warm layer is also needed as it gets quite cold, particularly in the middle and obviously more so in winter. Another 7km takes you down to Kohatu Junction (passing the Norris Gully car park along the way). This is a good place for refreshments at the Flat Rock Café.
KOHATU TO TAPAWERA, 8KM - The newest section of trail (completed in October 2020) follows the historic railway alignment down the Motueka Valley, with views across hop plantations and farmland to Mt Arthur. Make sure you keep an eye out for remains of 150-yearold stone walls, culverts and bridges as you gradually descent to the village of Tapawera where there is a small railway museum, café and restaurant. Tapawera is also a good place to stay with several accommodation options including, a hotel, motel, cabins and campground.
TAPAWERA TO RIWAKA, 50KM - Tapawera marks the end of the purpose built trail, from here Tasman’s Great Taste Trail follows quiet roads down the Motueka Valley for 50km to Riwaka. Note that there is limited food and drink available along this section so make sure you stock up at the Four Square in Tapawera. Be prepared for a steep climb over Stanley Brook Saddle 6km north of Tapawera then a further 12km to reach the Woodstock Junction where you will turn left and cross the Motueka River before turning right onto West Bank Rd, and down the valley you go. (You can also head back to Wakefield by turning right from Woodstock onto Dovedale Rd then Pigeon Valley Rd, a journey of 30km.) From the Woodstock Bridge, it’s 27km along the West Bank Rd to Brooklyn. The road is relatively narrow but has light traffic volumes. At Brooklyn, it’s a right turn onto Old Mill Rd, left onto Anderson Rd, straight across Umukuri Rd, on Swamp Rd, and then right into Factory Rd to reach the junction with SH 60 at Riwaka. The cycle trail’s ‘Kaiteriteri to Motueka’ section is across the road.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Abel Tasman National Park is on the doorstep, where blue water, golden sands and green flora all wait to seduce you.
• Watching hand-blown glass art at Nelson’s flamedaisy studio and gallery is almost hypnotic.
• Catching the ferry to Māpua gives this trail a charming point of difference. There is just one ferry crossing every hour.
• The lovely little town of Motueka is surrounded by fruit orchards and hop gardens.
• Pick your own berries (seasonal) at Tasman Bay Berries in Richmond. Or head straight to the counter and order a real fruit ice cream from December to February.
• Take a free tour of Pic’s Peanut Butter World.
• Riding through Rabbit Island with ocean on one side and pine forest on the other is a treat.
• Tasman, Marlborough and Nelson Wine is world-class and make up our largest wine growing area. There are scores of excellent vineyards.
• Spooners Tunnel is the longest rideable railway tunnel in the southern hemisphere. There are no lights but there are reflectors.
• Nelson’s cherry blossom trees bloom in September. This is also the month of the annual Cherry Blossom Festival to celebrate the city’s Japanese sister-city, Miyazu.
Miyazu Garden, Nelson
www.nelsontasman.nz
ALONG THE TRAIL
Richmond: Not far from Nelson, Richmond boasts several vineyards all within a 20km radius. The area is also home to potters, glass blowers, wood turners and metalsmiths. Aniseed Valley, just south of town, is laid-back and lush, perfect for languid walks, barbecues and swimming in the bush reserve.
Stalls at Richmond Market Day
Richmond Unlimited
Wakefield: Get your chops around one of the finest pies in New Zealand at Wakefield Bakery. Some of the architecture in this pretty township dates back to the 1840s including its Anglican church and Post Office.
Māpua: Celebrated for its smoked seafood, foodies find it hard to leave Māpua. The refurbished waterfront is bustling with cafés and restaurants, and the wharf is flush with shops and galleries.
Kaiteriteri: This dazzling beach region is a favourite Kiwi holiday spot. With plenty of sunshine, seclusion and golden sand,you can spend the entire day in or around the water. At day’s end, duck into one of the waterfront restaurants for a sunset dinner.
Motueka: The marina bustles and the Saltwater Baths on the foreshore – filled by the incoming tide – are a local favourite. Also here is the rusty wreck of historic Janie Seddon, while the Gecko Theatre is a quirky picture house with cushions, couches and popcorn served in bowls.
LOVE NELSON
Welcome to the sunniest city in New Zealand, and where the artistic energy beams just as brightly. Experience the art of glass blowing or learn the traditional skill of Māori bone carving. The Nelson Classic Car Museum is one of Nelson’s most publicised attractions as is Pic’s Peanut Butter World for its Willy Wonka-style experiences. Founders Heritage Park is a replica pioneer village detailing early European settler days, and The Suter Art Gallery is Nelson’s free regional art gallery. For wine aficionados, the region is home to dozens of cellar doors and Nelson is also dubbed New Zealand’s craft beer brewing capital, so fill your glass. For tranquillity, both the Queen’s Gardens and the Miyazu Japanese Gardens offer pure zen.
Bridge at Queen’s Gardens, Nelson
Barry Peck
More mountain biking, please
SILVA FOREST MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK: Located in Richmond, this privately owned 180ha forest boasts 24-hour,free public access as well as a network of 24 safe trails. The single tracks climb steadily to the top ridge allowing for plenty of downhill fun.
KAITERITERI MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK: A purpose-built 180ha off-road park cradled in native bush beside Kaiteriteri,one of New Zealand’s best beach resorts. There are trails to challenge every skill level, including families, with its series of kid-friendly loops.
CODGERS MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK: Minutes from Nelson city centre, enjoy easy grade 2 tracks all the way up to dramatic grade 5 descents. Rising to approximately 400m, the views over Nelson are incredible.
SHARLANDS TRAILS: Just 10 minutes from central Nelson in Hira Forest, whizz down the continuous 9km single-track route or experience grade 5 descents on the newly built Aorere trail. Permits are required.
ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAIL - Golden Downs Trail: 66km/1 day
Links Nelson Lakes National Park with the town of Wakefield and then connects with the Tasman’s Great Taste Trail at Wakefield to form a continuous touring route between the National Park and Nelson city.
Adventures in Abel Tasman National Park
Kayaking: There isn’t a Google search out there that doesn’t spit out a kayaking image when you search Abel Tasman National Park.Wildlife encounters are especially fruitful in the Tonga Island Marine Reserve, with most kayaking operators based in Kaiteriteri, Mārahau and Golden Bay.
Kayakers at Onetahuti Bay, Abel Tasman National Park
Kaiteriteri Kayak
Great walks: The Abel Tasman National Park is well-known for its 60km Great Walk but if you’re starved of time, simply book a water taxi to the most popular sections. Some of the best inland hiking tracks are reached from the Golden Bay side of the park. Try Harwoods Hole (45 minutes one way) or Wainui Falls (1hr 20min return).
Boat trips: Full-day catamaran tours depart (and return to) Kaiteriteri Beach, venturing past stunning beaches, fur seal colonies and a handful of deserted islands. Alternatively, amp up the luxe appeal with an overnight stay aboard a luxury yacht moored at Anchorage Beach.
Secret spots: From Anchorage Bay, various short walks lead to pinch-yourself places. Undertake the Pitt Head Trail for access to the achingly beautiful Te Pukatea Bay, as well as the crystal-clear Cleopatra’s Pools, complete with natural water slide. Get to Anchorage Bay by hiking from Bark Bay or Mārahau (around 3-4 hours walk) or catch the water taxi from Kaiteriteri Beach.
