filthy gorgeous
places Have you ever seen something, heard of something, been somewhere, or experienced something that ignited a spark, one that set you on a pathway that you hadn’t even thought of. Or maybe you had thought about it, but you wasn’t sure what ‘IT’ was. Places forever change and people forever adapt. Gentrification is on the rise, is this affecting the creative spirit of London’s most colourful town?
one
step
onto the congested High Road, a thick barrage of cigarette smoke, engines, horns, chatter and song hits the air. Platoons of tourists clutching their cameras and green-haired teenagers with thick black eyeliner spew onto the pavements from the underground. A large sign, carried by a colourful and hard-looking man, face drowning in his over-sized purpletipped mohican, pointing towards a tattoo shop. Turning right, I’m instantly faced by a semi-circle of pedestrians, watching a busker making his musical mark on the town. He is accompanied by a dancing drunk man, swinging a can of Red Stripe around, dominating the set. A myriad of theatricallooking market stalls ahead. A street poet colouring the dirt-filled pavements with beautiful words, encouraging individuals to fear nothing, give more, love everything, and contribute a quid to his artwork. Walking down the road, a man is hauled out of The Oxford Arms by the shoulder of his jacket for his rowdy behaviour, clasping his pint for dear life, at 10am. The aroma of cannabis and Chinese food wafts its way through the crowd. A seedy culture combined with creativity gives the town a unique appeal. A rich sense of community, affiliated with controversy and anarchy is the norm of everyday life. I continue to walk further, finding myself right outside the market entrance. I become overwhelmed with anticipation about what I may find. A one of a kind vintage leather coat, or a ‘real’ Gucci belt? The cobbled path leads me towards an eclectic array of jewellery and crystals, next to a wall of magical dream-catchers sold by one of the last remaining hippies. I walk back over the bridge, I take a moment to myself and breathe it all in. Synonymous with subculture, a multicultural haven. Young and old. Artists and musicians. Punks and rockers. Gay and straight. Affluent and poor. Religious and atheist. Dreamers and believers. An array of diverse, outlandish, curious and confident individuals all living together in perfect unison. The walls and buildings are covered in political and artistic graffiti, brightening the streets and shouting for freedom of speech. Somewhere creatives from Charles Dickens to N-dubz called home. A place that represented your adolescent arrogance and free spirit, where you got your first nose piercing and smoked your first cigarette. A place where you can speak, dance, live and dress however you please. A jewel, or more a rough diamond, in British culture. A place where Brazilian cuisine, skinheads, retro vinyls and the Mad Hatter live harmoniously together
...
DIRTY FILTHY GORGEOUS
FEARLESS
CAMDEN TOWN
"We're all mad here."
rom Charles Dickens to N-dubz, MTV to street poetry, Camden Town is hailed for its inclusive nature, homing an incredibly diverse mixture of artists. Whilst Camden may not be your average Town, it seems like most places in London, change is one constant theme. As the rise of gentrification continues, does this affect the creative scene and the spirit of Camden Town? A borough that grew on the new railways of the 19th century and the industries that followed, and subsequently declined, has given way to the Head Offices of major Brands, such as ASOS, Ted Baker and MTV Europe. Sitting alongside the famous Camden Market, making the most of the proximity to the City, moreover, trading on the Camden Vibe. It is mythical, multi-cultural haven full of curiosities and stories to spark anyones imagination. A mecca for rebels, artists and lost souls, however, Camden Town is undergoing a facelift. Like most places in London, gentrification is taking over, replacing the old with the new, and adding a hefty price tag. It is fair to say that everywhere, places and the people, change. It is rare to find any Towns or Cities that remain the same today as they did 30 years ago. Camden Town was once a place un-policed, submerged with alternative subcultures living side by side owning their own stalls, shops and pubs with mutual respect towards each other. Living in the borough of Camden Town her whole life, and working as a Jewellery Stall Owner within the market, Jessica Emilia Jones tells us her thoughts on her beloved home, “Camden Town is weird,
it always has been and always will be. No matter what rich developers try to make of it. Years ago, everyone was living on nothing and doing whatever they wanted from young artists to designers, everyone wanted to make it here in Camden Town. A semblance of Camden still remains, but its different.” The town has been changing since the for a very long time and about to become a whole lot more expensive, but where isn’t? As with every City and Town, developers will invest into rich, cultural areas where they see financial benefits and opportunities. Most places are where the creative scenes lie, building very expensive properties, ushering away the current locals out of their own homes. Evidently, new businesses outprice the old ones, paving a way to a more expensive way of life for residents and visitors. For Camden Town, this is a reality. But does the spirit of the individuals live on? Will creatives still find hope in a place becoming demoralised by capitalist ventures? Most of the market has already been lost to re-development. Aesthetics have been sanitised, making way for the new food and drink stalls that will take residency as the old are ushered away. ‘The new Shoreditch’ I hear it will be. In fairness, some of the food was quite dubious, but people enjoyed it and most of it was decent and new to many people. A lot of income came from the market for many family run local businesses. Many people have feared that gentrification will run them out of business and even fear for their
livelihood, one market stall owner explains, “Many people have already been shoved out the market, I fear it will be me next.” It’s really not nice to see how the change places, even when they’re changing for the better, are affecting the livelihood hood of people.
I can drink whenever I want without judgement, compared to somewhere like east London, no judgements mean you can feel free, this what makes it fun.” But the remaining question still holds, can camden surpass all the changes for the better? Or is it a place riddled with culture thats doomed to have its soul sucked out of it? Does this cause a threat to local residents and Danny continues. “It will take a whole lot more than the alternative scene that inhabits here? As you rich arseholes to ruin the place, looks round you, arrive in Camden Town, it doesn't take long to punks, road-men, hippies and reggae legends bump into someone that considers themselves are still roaming the streets and that hasn't as part of Camden's historical punk culture, changed, its just that more and more tourists are offering any tourist a photo for a quid. Freddie coming to see them and it looks like it's changing.” Newark, a remaining punk of Camden Town speaks out “Punks will always find Camden its One thing that Camden is affiliated with is illegal home. Camden has always been an inclusive activity and its drug culture. We stopped and town, thats where its uniqueness and spirit lies.” spoke to Busker Cam Cole and asked what Taking into account the rising prices of living, his knowledge on Camden’s drug scene, “The we asked Freddie about the current creative drug culture is huge here. One time, all the culture and whether he still believes it exists, hippies from the squats in Camden came into “There will always be a creative vibe here, not town and protested against the crack down on matter what, so many different people want to street performers, and they all started getting be here still. I know the police are trying to crack on Ketamine and having mini raves.” The crack down on buskers, but they’re still emerging, down on drugs means a more controlled town, even if its illegal, nothing stops anyone here which many of the locals don't want, but is it really. Its what makes camden so vibrant and really a bad thing? It doesn't affect the town exciting. I have nothing against the tourists, I badly, only making it a safer place. However, think it’s amazing that people want to come and laws have changed and society today is much experience the town and what it has to offer.” more controlled when it comes to substance use. It seems as though the older residents still believe Many people may think that this is what made Camden to be alive with creativity, no matter Camden a rebellious place, and a seedy culture what changes it faces. It seems that Camden which was praised. However, the control of drug is still an attractive place to move to for many use is a good thing and should be controlled, looking for a home in camden’s alternative scene not at all affecting the creative nature of a town. “I’ve met so many amazing people down here. It’s not just stereotypically full of punks and The cynicism that surrounds camden seems rockers, but so many different subcultures that to disappear as people express their genuine are so accepting and welcoming. The energy is desire for the place, shining a light on its future. amazing here.” Described by Ben Moore who Young creatives and alternatives are passionate moved from Cumbria looking for an alternative about moving into the area to live and pursue a scene that he felt was lacking back in his hometown. career. Fresh new faces come to camden, they make the place their own. Of course, the threat Pub owner Danny expains why he moved to of renovation and re-development continues to Camden “My parents use to live in Camden until put Camden Town under threat, but this process they had me, then moved over to Australia. They has always existed, and has been instilled into praised it constantly and so I decided to come the area since the first residents moved in. here too. I’ve been here for a year, it’s a place
OI
Painted words, lyrical odes. Colourful smiles, creative souls. Inspire, encourage, learn to love, pursue a passion, never give up. Practice forgiveness everyday and only speak with sweet words to say. You walk the streets, clueless of what this place is or what it used to be. I am here to help you, consume my words, my sweet, harmonious gestures. I live on the paths you walk on. This is my stomping ground, my home, my canvas. A powerful relationship I have with Camden. Realise I do not hate, for living on the streets is my own mistake. It was all Rastas, punks, skinheads and rebels that owned this place. Everybody got along. But the police, anyone that sticks out, they’ll target you. It’s no fun anymore, less freedom, more bore. They’ve targeted everybody and anybody thats colourful, trying to normalise Camden, when we’re not normal, we’re different. I’ll never stop living here, it’s where I belong. An original punk you could say, you wouldn’t be wrong. Times have changed, but I am still here. I’ve made this place a home, its been so long, my dear. Since I arrived in ’88, periods of stability and periods on the street, bad choices and bad relationships. I’m just trying to climb back up, to get back on my feet. Each day passes, different people walk by. Just carrying on with their day, turning a blind eye. ’Oi!’ You see this tattoo on my neck, it was my first. I always shout ’OI’, it’s my favourite word. My hair’s shaven both sides, used to have a jet black mohican. Can you still see my tattoos underneath my grey and dead roots? I covered myself in them, before I turned all wrinkly and old. I sometimes forget my name, but these tattoo’s, I will always remember the pain. Holding the tears back, teeth clenched, muscles tensed. Had to appear hard though didn’t I? Punk and Rock immersed into my soul. First gig I ever saw, The Stranglers at Dingwall’s. The queue was snaking its way down the high road, head banging, mosh pits, lighters in the air, raving and stripping down. That was outside before we were even let in! Leather and chained bodies roaming about, spliff in one hand, dominating the streets, the police were scared of us! We were seedy fuckers. This is my little home, just opposite the station. I need to get a new sleeping bag, it’s withering away, just like me. Help is coming though, I won’t be here forever, its just a bump in the road, suppose I should be
seedy fuckers.
more clever. I take myself over to the lock occasionally, I like to watch the world go by. I’ve always wanted to live on a boat, one on Regents Canal, just to sit back, relax and float. Maybe one day, eh? Or maybe I’ll get put in one of those fancy new flats they’re building? Never mind. I watch the youngsters taking the town into their own hands now. I feel sorry for them, that they missed it in all of its prime back in the day, we had such a good time. They’re still coming here because the creativity will never die, thats one thing they can’t take away from us, I would never lie. I used to be an artist, lost all of my work when I lost my life and family. I paint the streets day in and day out, just to make this place beautiful, making people smile I don’t doubt. I may look like I’m stupid, but I’m not. I am an artist simply lost in translation, along a dark path taking unpredictable and erroneous turns.
”
When darkness falls on the town, the people light it up. Music is my escape when I feel lost and afraid. I build relationships with buskers here. You have to really, we’re a community looking for recognition and admiration. Holed and wretched, my shoes are about to disappear. It’s getting colder now, I do start to fear. I stole this hat from a market stall, forgive me, moneys tight right now. I took it and ran, so I didn’t get into a brawl. The tourists help me to stay alive, they appreciate my art and give me drive. They wish me back my health and give me a few quid, increasing my little wealth. Camden has the lowest rate of homelessness in London, you know? Guess I’m just an unlucky one! The feeling is low. I’ll be getting my life back together soon though. I guess I’ve experienced everything Camden has to offer, I’ve watched it change every day. The one thing that stays the same is the spirit. People come here because they want to be part of something special, something that speaks and pursues dreams and desires. Its like a dark, fucked up fairytale. Maybe that’s just the drugs that have distorted my mind, but you can’t shy away and pretend it doesn’t exist, that would be blind. I once saw a load of hippies turn up and protest against the abolishment of street performers, they were all on Ketamine, which was quite unsettling. Thats one thing I do think the police are doing right, cracking down on the drugs and the thugs. Although it probably won’t change anything, we’re all mad here anyway.
CAM COLE Meeting busker Cam Cole on Camden high road, he tells us he has been performing on the street for eight years, buying his first guitar at the young age of seven at a car boot sale. A Camden Town expert, Cam Cole speaks to Filthy Gorgeous about his own experiences and Camden’s drug culture. What has brought you to Camden Town today? As a street performer, Camden Town is the best place for me to be, I love it here. I know everyone, we all get along no matter our backgrounds. I normally sing and play my guitar just outside the station as people can witness my performer as their first sight of Camden Town. Is gentrification affecting Camden Town? Yes, massively, it has been changing since the 80’s but since I’ve known camden for eight years its changed so much, I guess it’s getting more and more gentrified, they’re trying to build a huge train station down by the lock, and they’re used to be amazing rehearsal studios, they’re used to be another market there which was really awesome. The crowd has changed a lot, there will always be a rock kind of audience and
punk kind of vibe, always be a bit crazy, but I don’t think they’re going to be able to eradicate that and I think thats what they’re trying to do in the long run, which is what makes Camden, Camden. Is gentrification affecting Camden Town? Yes, massively, it has been changing since the 80’s but since I've known camden for eight years its changed so much, I guess it’s getting more and more gentrified, they’re trying to build a huge train station down by the lock, and they're used to be amazing rehearsal studios, they're used to be another market there which was really awesome. The crowds changed a lot, they're will always be a rock kind of audience and punk kind of vibe, always be a bit crazy, but I don't think they're going to be able to eradicate that and I think thats what they're trying to do in the long run, which is what makes Camden, Camden. Did you do anything before you did busking at all? I’ve been trying to be a successful musician for about 5 years, street performing has really helped me to engage and find new audiences and things like that,
because the council do try to get rid of buskers here they’ve been doing it for a long time, part of the whole gentrification thing I guess. There is a few people that busk here still, less and less now days, I used to perform in a band just over the road from here, (Camden high road), we used to have proper full on rock shows, they even had a licensed scheme which I think is still going but it's not really a means to help up because it merely just takes our money and moves us around, saying were not allowed to play here or anywhere for too long and so we don't make any money so we stop coming back, so we just kind of have to do it illegally.
and in-between their sets they were just taking pipes of heroin and crack. I’ve known the guys for years because I’ve busked for so long now, you get to know so many different people that live here on the streets, you get to know the homeless people and its good to have a good rapport with them as they can really interrupt your shows so, if we have a good relationship with them then it’s OK but yeah. There was one day we were literally, it was like a really hot summers day, and it was like a really dodgy music festival just on the street, there was people just taking drugs everywhere, it was crazy.
Really? So thats one thing gentrification isn't really changing? There was a protest here once, about the busking at one point and loads of hippies turned up from all of the squats in London and people were just taking ketamine here on the streets, there was loads. When beat boxers play here sometimes it gets into a bit of a rave sort of party, it can do you know. It’s always got that edge to it because when you perform in other places its more just like heres the crowd their like be doing, which is all good and well but you don't have that camden vibe which is amazing, heres nothing like it… but if the vibe gets too much it can get really intense, but it has that nice balance, it's a liberal borough people are very accepting, even tourists they understand the vibe when they come they realise it's a liberal Crazy! Do you think the drug culture is still a place so they really appreciate the music and huge problem here? being entertained, more so then they would in Yeah it’s massive, huge. I remember once, I Oxford Circus, they’ll just walk straight past you was taking it in turns once busking with some and don't give a shit because its all commercial. homeless guy, he goes just over the road there, Is Camden Town the place where creativity thrives although gentrification is constant? It’s the sort of places to me where, it's so fun, today the whether a bit shit but on a really sunny, vibrant day it's amazing, theres so many crazy, confident people around sometimes they want to get on the mic and dance in front of me which is OK, I don't mind the dancing but the thing is I've got all my equipment here and some people aren't always careful or even care for that matter (laughs). I've seen a lot of fights happening here, all kinds of things. I think as a street performer in camden you really get a strong understanding as to what its like, what the people are like and how the town works, and how it has changed over the years, you know. Everyone is still crazy.
FERRARI BBC
“Our names are BBC and Ferrari, thats our rap names. We’re out here today trying to promote our rapping, you know, trying to get rich and famous.” “Camden is a lovely place you know, I’m not even lying. We never used to come here because I used to think it was kind of a ‘folky’ area, but we both get along with all of the folks now, they're a bit mad innit.” “We’re originally from Cricklewood, but we’re here now trying to chase our dreams in Camden Town. It’s quite hard though we’ve been doing it for ten years man, still ain’t got signed yet to a major record label, you get me it’s hard.” “We come here because everybody is here, in Camden Town. France, Germany, Scotland, Holland, everyone comes Camden Town innit. My area, it's only ghetto people in my area, you know them mandem.”
FERRARI FERRARI
"CAMDEN TOWN IS MY CANVAS"
“
I’m a student studying Graphic Design at Bournemouth University, but Camden Town is where I want to pursue my career. I walk around, looking at all of the colourful walls. I think about how much creativity there is here, I want to be part of that. Thats why all the art work I create, I plaster it onto the walls on Camden Town. I want to get my work out there, and it’s all about being in the right place, Camden Town is my canvas.
AIDEN SADLER
”
and the rain was distorting the view from the window of the old minibus. As the vehicle slowed, I used my sleeve to wipe the condensation from the cold glass, I could see the gates. They were attached to something once, but not now. Picking up my rucksack, I got off the bus. I’d arrived, in the Middle of nowhere. Walking over the fallen gates, and though the overgrown grass, I glanced towards a blackened building. But, my gaze was drawn towards a mound of uneven ground in the distance. I thought someone waved, I blinked, no, no waving. Just a mass of contorted bodies and piled high. I turned towards the large black metal building, walking faster and breathing heavily, I threw open the door, I found myself engulfed in the darkness of the giant silent building. I held out my hand to feel my way along the dingy corridor and tripped. I grabbed the rail, a cold hard rail, with long pointy fingers. As the space opened up, the darkness was replaced by an eerie incandescence. The figures around me staring, unmoving, deathly pale. Broken limbs. A mountain of distorted figures, forced unwillingly together. Where the hell had I ended up? “Pretty fucking creepy right? Apparently it’s haunted too!” Shouts Seasons Lead Guitarist Matt. “Right,” I laugh nervously. Young Camden band Seasons have invited me to the location for their new song and music video, Getaway. We are actually at ‘The Mannequin Graveyard’ and it’s exactly what it says on the tin. I’m surrounded by mannequins which have been thrown together across a few acres of land. I question the eerie choice of venue, “We chose the location because “it’s fucking weird!” Grant explains, descriptively. And he’s right, the place is fucking weird. Disembodied limbs are strewn across the fields, and inside the figures hang disconcertingly from the ceiling, as well as impaled on the walls and floor, casting ominous shadows over the entire warehouse. Whilst setting up their instruments, each member smokes a cigarette and cradles a can of Fosters. In contrast to the tense setting of our surroundings, the crew and band laugh and play around with the dissembled bodies before beginning the shoot. Whilst today they are shooting further north, Bradley, Grant, Steve, Matt and James
are originally from Camden. They formed 5 years ago to produce and create lyrical rock infused music, inspired by their home town. Its reputation for producing iconic musicians and of course a nucleus of punk and rock culture, Camden is arguably said to be where it all started.“Although we are miles away today to shoot for Getaway, Camden will forever be our home, our inspiration. “It’s where we started and what made us”. Up and coming Seasons are a band who thrive on live gigs, and their favourite venues are Camden Assembly and Proud Camden. “Our audience is so live and the vibe is electric. We love performing in Camden, where the greatest rock musicians have performed, we want to follow in their footsteps.” Bradley is first up to shoot his scene, standing alone, in red illuminated room with white mannequins surrounding him. With his electric guitar straddled across his body, and his long messy hair and thick black eye liner, on cue he follows instructions. “Right Bradley, head banging and vexed expressions, OK? Lets go! Shooting!”. Suddenly, I am startled by loud sound of electronic instruments and drumming, accompanied by multiple ‘Woah’s” and “Oh’s”. As the song echoes throughout the warehouse, Bradley mimes the lyrics and throws his body backwards and forwards, glancing towards the camera. Wondering how the location and song connect, I shout over to Steve to find out what inspired them “The song is about…the location…” oh ok, I reply! As soon as Bradley’s scene ends, we swiftly move on to Grant’s Scene in the next room. Resembling a much cleaner and PG scene from the movie House of Wax, mannequin parts hang from rails by sharp hooks whilst dark green and purple lighting creates a hypnotic and spectral vibe. The last scene of the day see’s a formation of the band altogether, Grant, Bradley, Matt, Steve and Joe. A heady mix of electric guitar and drums, the lads head banging and screaming to getaway. Performing in front of a wall of crushed mannequins, the band rock to the rhythmic sound of their fantastic new song. The melody is carried with Grants strong and smooth vocals, along with intelligent story telling. The choice of venue for their video, gives an added dimension to showcase this young exciting band. They maybe a young and quirky bunch of lads, but unlike their choice of venue…they’re no dummies!
YOUTH
Camden Town’s youth is changing and developing their own fearless style.
DIRTY FILTHY
FEARLESS
You have my heart, my soul, my mind, You make me express myself, Each day at a time. You are my work, my home, my dream. I wouldn't want to be anywhere else, Or anywhere in-between.
Your walls are painted in colourful art, Inspiring so many, Forever capturing my heart. Here I share you in all of your prime, From the busy tourist days, To the crazy, unpredictable night-time.
I begin my journey down the high road, An overload of thoughts in my mind, As I present to you my ode.
A cigarette between my fingers, Taking it all in, I breathe the smokey air that lingers.
Lets make our way down to The Hawley Arms, A drink in one hand, Causing no harm.
Across the bridge and over the lock, We sing and laugh to Madness, Whilst the others smirk and mock. My hair is covered in beads and green dye, Let’s take a pit stop, To relax, or, get high. A market full of curiosity and mystery, I am forever fascinated, By your colourful and cultural history. An unimaginable mixture of drink and food, Vegan Thai plates to Bubble Tea, Always something for whatever mood.
me express myself, Each day at ou are my work, my home, my wouldn't want to be anywhere nywhere in-between. Your walls in colourful art, Inspiring so ver capturing my heart. Here I in all of your prime, From the t days, To the crazy, unpredictable I begin my journey down the high verload of thoughts in my mind, sent to you my ode. Lets make own to The Hawley Arms, A ne hand, Causing no harm. A etween my fingers, Taking it breathe the smokey air that ross the bridge and over the lock, and laugh to Madness, Whilst
Street performers and buskers everywhere, Music and dance, Creates the rhythmic atmosphere. Creative individuals here is your home, We are a strong community, You will never be alone. Whether you are young or old, A hippie or a punk, Always be loud, always be bold. Tattoos and piercings available everywhere, Diverse individuals,
Boring is rare.
On the road, two men lay unclothed, For no reason at all, Completely exposed. Anarchy and controversy is normal here, Confronting, protesting, Without any fear. No matter what change goes about, Your spirit will always live on, I have no doubt.
Camden Town,
Camden Town,
Camden Town,
Camden Town.
CONTRIBUTORS TEXT, PHOTOGRAPHY, EDITING AND STYLING ABIGAIL SCOTT MODELS SAM FLETCHER, GOLDIE TAYLOR, DANIELLE ALDRIDGE GRAPHIC DESIGN AIDEN SADLER THANK YOU, CAMDEN TOWN.