In memory of my mother, Leonor Silveira da Costa, who was always by my side, praying and cheering for my success, sacrificing basic comforts so that I could complete my studies, celebrating my victories and suffering with my disappointments. I am grateful for her care and spirit!
Behind the
Makeup
Stories of a New York Hairdresser
Marcello Costa
Behind the
Makeup
Stories of a New York Hairdresser First edition March - 2011 Above Publications Vila Velha - ES - Brazil
Behind the Makeup Copyright Š Above Publications No part of this publication may be stored, photocopied, reproduced by mechanical, electronic or any other form without written permission from the author.
CHIEF EDITOR Uziel de Jesus AUTHOR Marcello Costa COVER Daiane Benedet Ricardo Pimentel GRAPHIC DESIGN Daiane Benedet PROOFREADING Suzan Dollof PUBLISHER Above Publications www.aboveonline.com (617) 252-8088 Printed by Grafica Viena in Brazil
Thank You Note First I thank God for my existence, my family in heaven and my family still on earth who share supper with me. To Deise, Leia, Paula and Lene, for always being by my side, not forgetting Caridad, who made my dreams possible. To the Jean Pierre Hair Salon on Times Square in New York City, where I improved my knowledge. To my agent Ken Barboza, for helping me become a professional of quality. To Josiane Silva, for always being by my side in this project, for organizing it, scheduling it, and always being available. To Ricardo Pimentel, who without measuring his effort, helped turn my wildest ideas into perfect pictures and his wife Eliane, “Nana,” for tolerating me in her house at the most inappropriate times. To Andrezza, The Moon, for being positive, and not letting me give up my dreams! Finally, I thank all of friends for their moral and psychological support, for being always by my side, standing me up after each fall and believing in me when even I didn’t believe. Thanks!
Marcello Costa
PREFACE When I was invited to be a part of this project, I accepted with immense satisfaction because I knew that it would be a job that I would really enjoy. It not only presents an area of interest for all professional makeup artists, but it also will help each reader highlight her or his own beauty with easy to do tips. In simple language, the author manages to inform, instruct, entertain and excite us with his text filled with experiences. Like any immigrant, Marcello arrived here in the United States in pursuit of the realization of his dreams. However he did not allow the unconditional freedom that we all experience, especially living in New York, to corrupt him. Now, with the simplicity of his words the author reports facts of his life and the difficulties he fought without losing his principles. The realization of this work was only possible because Behind the Makeup is a WINNER! Besides being educational, this book encourages us to never give up! In each chapter, there are new lessons, so do not miss any of them! Josiane Silva Esthetician and Make-up Artist
MESSAGE FROM THE AUTHOR I took about a quarter of a century to solve the mystery of the existence of women and to find the water that quenches the thirst of my soul. I always felt in my heart the desire to know the diversity of the human race, each different race with its own particular beauty, each with traits revealing the culture of its people. When I started my professional journey in the late ‘90s, I discovered that behind the layers of make-up, women revealed the stories of their lives and with their hairstyles the sense of having everything together. In each chapter I let that kid who lives in my heart take the lead and act freely between the four corners of the object. I reinforce my view considerably that all (without exception) face great ghosts. It is not necessary to feel inferior or superior because we are all made equal on the earth and to her we’ll return. Understand this philosophy, our journey become easier when we are walking. People believe and think that vanity and self-love are deadly sins regardless of the culture and religion they belong to; however in the beauty and appreciation of women, I see the power of God’s hands. In conclusion, reality is what we all seek, and the noble sentiment that every soul longs for is LOVE!
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Contents Behind the blush 17 Baggage 21 Art and the man 30 Fighting weigh 35 Behind the camouflage 39 It is easy try to imitate me, but it is harder to be me! 41 People do not realize how others see them 45 Transamerica 51 Aliens 57 Brides 59 The time 65 The love between the fish and the bird 69 The skin of sin 71 Why judge me? 77 Haunting season 79 Breaking barriers 85 Crossing boundaries 89 Under the sheets 93 Le homme 97 Living in the shadow 103 From garbage to luxury 107 Women of valor 113 Let’s keep this between us... 116 Credits 118
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BEHIND THE BLUSH Since early times, a creamy mixture was used to cover imperfections on the skin. Over the years, with the development of contemporary civilization and technological advances, this mix became makeup, subdivided into endless products and brands of different parameters. But makeup not only addresses physical defects, it can camouflage stories, feelings, experiences, pain and love. Both women and men use it, but what is really behind this cosmetic mask? At 16, I graduated from a public school of hairdressing in Minas Gerais, in a town called Nanuque, located 1000 km from Sao Paulo, Brazil. The sources of information were scarce and there every afternoon I practiced on the hair of members of the community. People paid $2.00 for a cut and $5.00 for blowouts. It was a unique experience; women shared stories of their families and even intimate relationships. They were humble women, without any lust, but with plenty of vanity! “Women tend to fully trust in hairdressers more than their spouses, because of the simple fact that most hairdressers don’t pass judgment.” Then I moved to Sao Paulo where I worked in salons that serviced the community, but the stories were the same, just in different books. The difference was in the purchasing power and value that people brought to my job. At first, I thought that the problems would be nonexistent, but with each weekly visit, the stories were continued like chapters in a novel. Their exteriors were expensive and sophisticated and with that pose these women form the dreamed class, so-called “Ladies.” People judge themselves superior and make that a rule, but forget that:
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“The Stylist and the man who makes the clothes are making fashion. Fashion is fashion, but does not make the man. “ Thus, by comparing the two cultures, I realized that, “fashion is not the exhibition of wealth, but the exposure of an internal imagination.” When I moved to the United States, I thought that because there were different people, cultures and languages, the problems faced by women would be different, I was wrong again. In these years living abroad I learned several languages: English, French and Spanish, Here in New York I often take the subway, I hear women talking about their Muslim husbands, Russians complaining of their children who are getting involved in drugs, Latina women complaining about their bosses, French women complaining of discrimination, American ladies concerned about their husbands who lost their jobs and even women trying to cover up the marks left by their abusers with makeup. Behind my chair I also watch from up-close the circus that happens in every woman’s life. By applying techniques of makeup and having neatly styled hair, they prepare to face a make believe society. Also I hear stories of women, winners who are successful, beloved and well settled in every way, who only want to feel more beautiful and charming. They are not Hollywood stars or part of a Reality Show, but real women who have fought and won. These are not “housewives” but “warriors.” Throughout my career I discovered that the makeup may cover the exterior, but the inside is there, real and not camouflaged. Makeup makes all the lines of expression and fatigue disappear; the art of mixing makeup, lighting and shading works miracles. People have to understand that they are human beings and will age, but sometimes they find themselves forced to undergo plastic surgery not for vanity, but to take care of the bodies, their work tools,
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“The physical beauty of youth is a product with an expiration date; when you have it; if you don’t use it, it will go bad. Remember that we all, without exception, are stamped with an expiration date!” Be happy with yourself, the way you are and with what you have. Do not base your happiness on trivial things or physical ones. Generally we all grow old and lose the flat belly we so dreamed of. In my journey I discovered that the science of experience is called happiness, and when one is happy, the whole trajectory is easier. “When you are young beauty is inherent, but when you get older beauty is a conquest made by you.” “Happiness is like the lines on the palm of the hand, everyone has them, they’re yours, nobody else has them. Carry the happiness parallel to those lines.” No matter where you come from: Nanuque, Nelson de Sena, Sao Paulo, New York, England, Africa or Australia, you’ll discover that the makeup is used by all ethnic groups with the same purpose. Use it and you’ll discover what really happens Behind the Blush.
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BAGGAGE We all have some kind of luggage; some bags are large and well endowed, some small and portable. What all bags have in common is that no matter where we go, they will all provide some form of storage. No matter what country we are residing in, if we only are making a quick trip to the shopping area, we’ll take them. We also call the experiences that we accumulate in the course of our lives, “baggage,” things we have faced that are not only positive but also negative. Since my childhood I have been surrounded by people, family and friends with luggage overflowing with experiences, I have been a target for people to confide in, and even share stories with me that deeply stirred my soul. In 80% of the cases they were sad stories of unsuccessful relationships, and what did they all have in common? Well, back to the example given at the beginning of this chapter that explores a little about baggage. We all take our lives in bags, which we fill with many memories and experiences. On every trip we take, we have to empty the contents, placing each object in its place. To embark on a new journey it is necessary to have an empty “suitcase” in order to fill it with important things. We understand that means that all travel, its destinations, time and season are different for comfort and enjoyment. In relationships, the concept of luggage is the same. Each relationship is different; after all, people are different. It is necessary to completely empty your necessity for relationships so you can prepare for a new experience with nothing outstanding or remaining from other trips. It is necessary to be prepared for new experiences where the saying goes: “Past water does not move mills.” Speaking of baggage below are some items for a quick trip, long or even for one night only.
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Makeup I personally believe that every woman should have a mini bag containing the following items: - Mascara - Eye Liner - Blush (Rose and gold for fair skin to darker skin.) - Lip Gloss - Lipstick (Dark and Rosy) - Creamy or Base liquid - 3 brushes (blush, Cat Tail, and Po) -Pressed Powder in a compact (for finishing) - A mini palette of shades (golden, brown, black and white) - Lip Pencil (neutral, dark or shade of your preference) Listed above is the basic survival kit for every corner of the world. Items that are not listed above are considered excess. Remember, our lives are an evolution where we learn something new every day that we should include in our way of life. “Release everything of excess and concentrate on the inside�
Here below are examples of simple makeup, which may be made with your basic kit. Personally I believe there are no rules for the makeup, which are not obvious. Never use an eyelash curler in a vehicle at high speed, or put on lipstick without a mirror, and never use black lipstick!
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Growing up in a house with four women, I learned to never leave home without lipstick or a pair of earrings. There are 5 styles of makeup we call essential: Natural, Dramatic, Colorful, Romantic and Glamour.
Natural Over the centuries blush and lipstick have become emblems for “Women of the Night” and theater on wheels, both seen on revolutionary women and virtuous women. However, perhaps an innocent rosy glow transcends the tone of a modern beauty. The Kit is working to create light, softness and a little glow, as if a woman were coming out of an oil painting.
Dramatic or Smoky Clara Bow, a young star of silent films of the 20’s, was named the “It Girl.” Young, tender and sensual, she won the hearts of men and women with no intention of hurting them. Her serene countenance prevented others from leveling of accusations of deliberate seduction. This look captures the essence of a “vamp” perfectly, which emphasizes smoky eyes, enhancing and highlighting her real expression for the crowd.
Colorful Applying color to the face is always an exercise of pure delicacy and product selection. Try fewer colors at the beginning and as you continue, you can intensify them. This is a way that you can see what you are doing. Do not be afraid to apply too much and go too light. Applying colors can be tricky and that the secret is in mixing them, up until they completely disappears into the skin.
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Romantic For many centuries since the Middle Ages, the romantic look has been characterized by the natural beauty of woman and can be composed primarily of pink and pastel shades. Usually, I use the blushes of gold, pink and red, depending on the color of the skin after a uniform application of the base. Dissolve the base with this moisturizing cream in equal parts and apply it all over the face. Shortly thereafter, apply blush on the eyelids and cheeks. Apply mascara on the eyelashes and lip-gloss on the lips.
Glamorous This look was invented in the second part of this century when hair was shortened and eyebrows were arched to sexualize the gaze of the woman. Representing this style as an example we have a sequence of women that have epitomized this look, including: Jayne Mansfield, Betty Grable, Lisa Marie Presley and Marilyn Monroe of course. Coming up are two versions of the glamorous face. While there are millions of ways to define glamour, I am choosing two looks that reflect different sides of the same coin. Both use classic lipstick, each has different characteristics, but both are decidedly glamorous.
Steps to Follow Natural First apply the foundation evenly, and then add matt or compact powder with a soft bristle brush. Lightly lay down the foundation by “sweeping� the product on the surface of the face. It is very important to allow the makeup to set or firm up and dry for a few minutes for its
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natural result. . 2 - The eyebrows should be highlighted with dark shadow, which must be applied consistently with each individual’s skin and eyebrows (brown, black, red or blonde). 3 - Work on your eyes now. Usually using the gold, brown and gray, it is possible to create a crease in the eyelids, which raises the look of the eye, accentuating the facial expression. Try staying away from both creams and liquids or even the so-called “pencil crayons.” 4 - To emphasize the eyelashes, use clear or black mascara smoothly.
Dramatic or Smoky A dramatic look is easily obtained. In this case we will be demonstrating two examples: Materials: eyeliner, eye shadow and brown metallic mascara 1 - Apply metallic brown shadow evenly around the eyes. 2 - Then apply the pencil in a heavy tone. Use the end of the brush with the rubber tip, when the pencil is still a bit damp. Try smudging the pencil blending it with the shadow until the line disappears completely from the skin.
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For this style of makeup it is very important to keep the details of the smoky eye shadow in order to keep the work clean with a professional appearance. 3 - Apply the mascara heavily. If necessary re-apply it again for lasting results. 4 - The blush and lips should be kept in a pastel shades and warm colors. * Important: I recommend the use of false eyelashes to complete the look
Color 1 - Prepare the skin with a base dissolved in a moisturizer. 2 - Use Cream Blush from the front of face up to the cheekbones. Use your fingertips to spread it evenly. 3 - Go over this with a sponge, spread powder around the face with the sponge. 4 - Don’t use a pencil on the eyebrows; only comb them. 5 - Use your preference of different colored pencils on top of and under the eyes. 6 - Apply the shadow, no matter what color, but remember to always use the same color on the top and bottom of the eyes. Note: Other colors are optional, but the rule is to be consistent with color. If using different colors, make sure that there is harmony between them. You can also use Glitter. Have fun!
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Romantic 1 - Apply an even base. 2 - Put Blush on the eyelids and cheekbones 3 - Mascara 4 - Lip Gloss This look is based on a simple look, which only accentuates the cheeks’ “healthy and vibrant” skin.
Glamour 1 - Use concealer to brighten the part below the eyes. 2 - Apply the foundation softly in the middle of the face, extending it to the edges. 3 - Spread the pressed powder loosely around the face with a sponge. A little dust should be used on the nose below the eyes and chin. 4 - The eyebrows should be drawn with a brown/ golden pencil and then use transparent mascara to have a “combed” appearance. 5 - Apply Medium brown shadow to create a crease on the upper eyelid to give an illusion of dimension. 6 - Last and very important, use eyeliner. Apply it in a clean and sharp way. Now that you already have the idea of the five styles of makeup, keep reading and discover that in every chapter I present different ways to apply these styles!
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ART AND THE MAN Theoretically speaking, art is the form or process of expressing thoughts through symbolic elements that influence or affect our senses and emotions in various human activities, creations and expressions including music, literature, film, sculpture, photography and painting. But traditional terminology is used to name Artistic skills, talents or gifts. An artist is a person who expresses himself with one or more art-related skills, practicing or showing them in a particular way. So, now that you understand the concept of art and the artist, let begin our chapter. On a trip to Massachusetts and one of my workshops, I was talking to Andreza Moon, an artist in body painting, and she told me about her life. Single, 24 years old and the mother of a daughter, she arrived in the United States at age 19. An innate artist and always inspired by the more abstract art forms, her story moved me. Even with all her difficulties, she did not give up her dreams and today she is the owner of The Dream Factory, where she works with her different artistic skills to survive financially. During years of working in the Fashion District in New York City, I was surrounded by stylists, designers and editors for magazines such as Vogue, Essence, Glamour, Vanity Fair, Maxim and many others. From them I learned that in order to turn art into cash it is necessary to have an intermediary. I’ll explain better how the hierarchy of a fashion brand works. Production - Designer - Patterns (usually outside the U.S.)- Marketing - Sales. All this happens before a fashion reaches store shelves. There is a chain that makes art happen. Beyond the fashion world we find another class of artists, (struggling artist), or rising artists who are working hard at other areas such as waiters, housekeepers, etc. while continuing trying to get roles in movies or star in Broadway shows. Everyone is fighting for a place in the
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