Éclat International - Fall/Winter 2014

Fall/Winter 2014 Spring/Summer 2014 $6.95 $6.95

A Lifestyle Magazine

Morocco Gala for a Cause Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century

EXTREMELY PIAGET Necklace

A Lifestyle Magazine

Fall/Winter 2014

No. 111

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Extremely Piaget

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GALA FOR A CAUSE

Marvelous Mauve

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44 Behind the scenes at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK IN NEW YORK

Colorful Trends MANON CRESPI is the current Colorado chapter president of the Women’s Jewelry Association. Her 25 years of experience in the fashion industry, both as a model and fashion consultant, has put her in direct contact with fine jewelry designers. Her choice of the three influences of fashion on jewelry, illustrates the parallel links between the two.

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ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL is published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the October/November issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557 4

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EDITOR'S OUTLINE

As Éclat International evolves, it is only natural to explore the parallel between jewelry and fashion design. Newly introduced, Manon Crespi’s, Colorful Trends illustrates the connection between the two worlds. Leading into the holiday season we have presented complementary High Jewelry collections from some of the top luxury brands, which beautifully accessorize this year’s holiday fashions.

This year as Piaget celebrates its 140th Anniversary, we pay homage to the brand’s new

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collection. Our story, Extremely Piaget, highlights an exceptional period in Piaget’s creative history, the 1960s and 1970s. Many of the brand’s designs from this period have become classics for Piaget.

Gala for a Cause details the Ralph Lauren Corporation’s help in the fight against breast cancer. Ralph Lauren announced the formation of the Ralph Lauren Centre for Breast

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Cancer Research at a gala dinner at Windsor Castle outside of London. The Royal Marsden Hospital is the co-founder of the new Ralph Lauren Centre for Breast Cancer Research.

HRH The Duke of Cambridge, president of the Royal Marsden Hospital, hosted the gala. Éclat International invites you to join us for a behind the scenes presentation of one of the

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most invitation coveted fashion shows, the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York.

Join photographer Katja Maas and writer Pamela Bailey as they capture the essence of this spectacular event.

As a lifestyle publication, we are always interested in travel destinations and are pleased to

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share personal photographs with our readers. Enjoy learning about the immeasurable riches of Morocco; its distinctive architecture, exotic gardens, enticing handicrafts and overall

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Eclát Spring/Summer 2014

charm. Stimulate the senses and explore Morocco along with us.

The New Voyage by KIM Rings One Model with 7980 combinations

Combine the Voyage BY KIM rings depending on your fancy, your mood and the occasion.

In 18k yellow, rose or white gold, and with brilliant-cut diamonds. From $725. Join us on a journey to the world of wonderful possibilities. Exclusively at WEMPE.

A Lifestyle Magazine www.eclatinternationalmagazine.com Fall/Winter 2014

PUBLISHER

Bertram Kalisher

No. 111

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind

ART DIRECTOR

Raj Walia

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS ARTS & EVENTS DIRECTOR

Richard Kalisher

Pamela Bailey Carol Besler Bertram Kalisher Jeff Prine Nancy Pier Sindt Andrew Siskind

ONLINE EDITOR

Keiko Makishima Samuel Siskind

EXECUTIVE OFFICE

Editorial Advertising Circulation 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 Tel: 516-295-2516 Fax: 516-374-5060

FASHION EDITOR Manon Crespi

PHOTO EDITOR

Katja Maas

ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts.

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SHOWCASE

Edited by Jeff Prine

The craftsmanship found in the finest jewelry rivals that of any piece of fine art—as these examples testify to. The intrinsic value of precious gemstones and metals is further enhanced by the creativity of the jeweler, who envisions them as miniature, wearable masterpieces. These are treasures meant to be worn and adored.

TINKER BELL Peter Pan’s fairy pal gets the showcase she deserves in this unusual-carved pendant by Yael. The 18K twotoned gold holds a 42.39-carat amethyst accented with diamonds with a tiny Tinker resting atop. Truly a magical presentation.

YAEL DESIGNS www.yaeldesigns.com

CLUSTER EFFECT Temple St. Clair, one of America’s premier jewelry designers, is a master in creating color combinations with gemstones. In these 18K drop earrings, St. Clair blends pastels shades consisting of blue moonstone, aquamarine, tanzanite, tsavorite, and diamond.

TEMPLE ST CLAIR www.templestclair.com

MOOD MAHARANIS The serpent plays an important role in Indian mythology as a symbol of vitality and fertility. Adorned like Maharanis, the Bollywood beauties of today wear jewelry with serpent symbolism as an expression of sensual beauty. Wempe’s modern interpretation of a seductive 18K rose gold bangle is made up of 189 brilliant-cut diamonds, emeralds and pink sapphires. Besides intense color, the gemstones feature various cuts: navette, oval, pear and heart-shaped.

WEMPE www.wempe.com 10

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SHOWCASE

Edited by Jeff Prine

BLUE BLOODED Wempe has been busy being blue. A 51.86-carat cabochon-cut Tanzanite with its mysterious blue tones serves as a centerstone in this 18K Riviere necklace.

This rare stone owes its name to Tanzania, the country of its origin in east Africa. Three pear-shaped diamonds and another sapphire cabochon, connected by brilliant elements between the stones, dangle below the central stone like a precious mobile.

WEMPE www.wempe.com

FEATHER LITE These feather-inspired 18K white gold earrings from Sethi Couture are laden with rose-cut diamonds, accented with shades of natural pink, green and champagne diamonds.

Proving once again that an age-old concept like rose cuts can be renewed and enlivened by a modern twist.

SETHI COUTURE www.sethicouture.com

HAIR APPARENT What’s the ultimate item for a bride’s trousseau? Designer Sandy Leong came up with something to top the whole day off: an 18K yellow gold and sterling silver headband. Delicate yet simple yellow gold flowers are accented with diamonds.

There will be more than one reason to watch the bride come down the aisle.

SANDY LEONG www.sandyleongjewelry.com

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SHOWCASE

Edited by Jeff Prine

WIN, PLACE, SHOW Ralph Lauren presents a full pave diamond version of his Stirrup Petite watch. Set with 2,017 diamonds, the 18K white gold timepiece is a first-place Derby winner for exquisite craftsmanship and jewelry technique. It’s a classic that always remains in the winner’s circle.

RALPH LAUREN JEWELRY www.ralphlaurenjewelry.com

RAINBOW CONNECTION Italian master jeweler Buccellati shows its prowess in setting gemstones with this multi-colored, 18K yellow gold Bracciale Pizzo. The oval bezels are set with tzavorites alternating with round bezels in yellow gold set with fancy yellow diamonds.

On both sides of the band, a series of white gold bezels set with pink and blue sapphires and shiny beads in white gold.

BUCCELLATI www.buccellati.com

IN THE PINK Omi Privé is renowned for its high quality gemstones set in precious metals to highlight their best qualities. This handcrafted pink sapphire and diamond ring features an 11.24-carat cushion-cut pink sapphire with “peek a boo” round pink sapphires and diamonds set in platinum with 18K rose gold details.

OMI PRIVE www.omiprive.com

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ERIC S. BARR Pearl and Gem Collection at TEW Galleries

425 Peachtree Hills Avenue, #24 / Atlanta, GA 30305 / 404 538 4296 / WWW.TEWGALLERIES.COM Photographed by Phil Bekker / www.bekker.com

Manchette watch in 18k white gold with diamonds and a lapis- lazuli dial. It contains the Piaget Caliber 56P quartz movement.

Extremely Piaget

by Carol Besler

A new collection from Piaget pays tribute to the 1960s and 1970s, an “extremely” creative era for the Swiss watch and jewelry maker 16

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This year, Piaget celebrates its 140th anniversary with a burst of creativity that pays tribute to a stellar period in its aesthetic history: the 1960s and 1970s. The Extremely Piaget collection, introduced recently at the Biennale des Antiquaires, a jewelry and watch show held in Paris, commemorates the company’s heritage of creative innovation.

Cuff watch in 18k white gold, set with 1,699 snow-set brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 20.50 carats, with a natural opal dial and a Piaget quartz Caliber 56P movement.

Piaget was founded in a small town in Switzerland in 1874, where it established a tradition of master craftsmanship and high-precision watchmaking. Almost a century later, the company began to accelerate the creative element in its repertoire of values with the introduction of a modern outlook in design. The 1960s and ’70s was a time of social revolution

that heralded a fresh approach to fashion, design and all forms of self expression. Piaget embraced this revolution, which coincided with the arrival of a new generation at the helm of the company. Yves Piaget and his new team encouraged experimentation with new materials, daring designs and the bold use of color and form. Piaget also ushered in an era of FALL/WINTER 2014 17

Oval shaped jewelry watch Oval shaped jewelry watch in 18k white gold, with 44 in 18k white gold with 44 marquise shaped diamonds and marquise-cut diamonds. It 36 brilliant-cut diamonds. contains the Piaget Caliber It contains the Piaget quartz 56P quartz movement.

Caliber 56P.

more informal customer relations, opening a lounge for Piaget’s Geneva clients, who could freely explore the company’s new, modern creations, some of which have become Piaget classics.

Extremely Piaget consists of 88 jewelry creations and 37 watches that reflect this spirit of creative revolution, demonstrating the fluidity, asymmetry, stylization and

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bold use of shapes that were characteristic of the era. For example, one segment of the collection, Extremely Sparkling, commemorates the Maison’s signature use of marquise-cut diamonds. The tapered shape of the marquise cut gives it a very particular form that enables the juxtaposition of stones without making the jewel heavy. The new collection boasts

Ear cuff in 18k white gold set with 28 marquisecut diamonds totaling approximately 11.59 carats and 20 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 4.48 carats.

a total of more than 1,500 marquise-cut diamonds. Many of the Extremely Piaget pieces are convertible, so they can be worn in multiple ways, such as a pendant that detaches to become a brooch. On some pieces, like the Secret watches, the boundaries between jewelry and watch disappear completely.

The collection showcases Piaget’s timepiece classics,

including cuff watches, gold link bracelets, hardstone dials and ultra-thin movements. Several of the cuff watches feature Piaget’s hammered gold techniques that give the metal a very powerful presence. And for the first time in its history, Piaget created ear cuffs for the new collection, signalling its ongoing commitment to progressive design, while paying tribute

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Jewelry watch in 18k yellow gold with four emeralds set into the bezel and a jade mineral dial. It contains the Piaget ultra-thin hand-wound movement Caliber 9P. This is the same watch that was worn

by Jackie O.

EXTREMELY PIAGET to the past. Jean Bernard Forot, head of jewelry for Piaget, comments, “cuffs are so iconic to the brand that I wanted to play on the idea of a cuff to be worn near the face.”

Perhaps the most iconic development during the 1960s and ’70s for Piaget was its bold use of color, particularly evident in the signature hardstone watch dials, including lapis lazuli, jade and malachite. An entire segment of the new collection is called Extremely Colorful in homage to this pioneering use 20

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of vibrant color. The oval was an important shape within this context, and Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis, known as Jackie O, owned a Piaget watch created in 1965 featuring an oval jade dial, set with diamonds and emeralds. It was fitted with an extremely supple bracelet made from gold mesh. The 2014 collection includes several creations inspired by this watch, which is now part of Piaget’s heritage. u

BRILLIANCE

IN AN ERA OF CHANGE Cartier’s

Importance to 20th Century Jewelry is Explored in an Exhibition at the Denver Art Museum

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Stomacher brooch. Cartier Paris, special order, 1907.

Platinum, sapphires, diamonds; 21 x 12.9 cm. Cartier Collection. Photo: Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier.

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new exhibition at Denver Art Museum, entitled “Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century”, provides the perfect opportunity to immerse oneself in Cartier, one of the world’s foremost luxury brands.

This showcase includes dozens of beautiful jewelry pieces that show the evolution of the design house throughout the 20th Century.

The firm’s rise came against a backdrop of expanding wealth. Beginning at the end of the 19th Century, the demand for luxury goods reached new heights as the wealth of America’s Gilded Age robber barons brought new energy to the cultural capital of Europe.

Cartier boutiques in Paris and London were patronized by these nouveau riche Americans as well as by the Continental aristocracy. By 1909, when Cartier opened its New York boutique, the brand was well-established in elite circles and prominent families like the Morgans and Vanderbilts were important customers. This success was due largely to the company’s trend-setting designs as well as its ability to capture the spirit of the times

Tiara worn by Mrs. Townsend. Cartier Paris, special order, 1905.

Platinum, diamonds; Height at center 9.8 cm. Provenance: Mary Scott Townsend and Mrs. Donald McElroy. Cartier Collection. Photo: Vincent Wulveryck, Cartier Collection © Cartier.

through innovative marketing.

Many of Cartier’s greatest works, distinctive for their high quality stones and exquisite designs, are included in the exhibition.

Among the themes is “Aristocracy and Aspiration,” which focuses on objects from the early part of the era. This grouping features diamond, sapphire, rock crystal and pearl jewelry and enameled decorative items that showcase a refined and elegant aesthetic embraced by European royalty and aristocrats— and the wealthy Americans who aspired to join their social class. Cartier was also a pioneer in the use of platinum, which complements the whiteness of diamonds, and permits the creation of light, delicate settings.

To stay on the forefront of design trends, Cartier embraced the Art Deco movement of the 1910s and 1920s, creating bold looks with a new emphasis on color and geometry. The company also utilized new materials in this era, including jade, coral, and black onyx. Taking this even further, Cartier capitalized on the excitement generated by in-

Set of three clip brooches worn by HSH Princess Grace of Monaco. Cartier Paris, 1955. Platinum, brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, three cabochon rubies weighing approximately 49 carats in total. Palais Princier de Monaco,

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Flamingo brooch worn by the Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1940.

Platinum, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, citrine; 9.65 x 9.59 cm. Cartier Collection.

Photo: Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection Š Cartier.

Desk set with clock. Cartier Paris for Cartier New York, 1931. Silver, gold, lacquer, nephrite, enamel; 24 x 12.5 cm. Cartier Collection. Photo: Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection Š Cartier.

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Tutti Frutti strap bracelet worn by Mrs. Cole Porter. Cartier Paris, 1929. Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies; 18 x 4.07 x 0.75 cm. Cartier Collection. Photo: Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier.

ternational events after World War I, such as the discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb, to create original designs that incorporated exotic styles and materials including imported carved jade, lacquer, and faience. This exotic flair culminated in the colorful tutti-frutti style jewelry and sculptural mystery clocks.

With such innovative design, it was no wonder that society’s elite wanted pieces by the firm. Cartier’s glittering international clientele included not only royalty, aristocrats, and business leaders, but also stars of the stage, cinema and music—encompassing a who’s who of the 20th century’s financial, industrial and cultural sectors. One section of the exhibition takes a look at the “Icons of Style” who wore Cartier, including Daisy

Fellowes, the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco, Dame Elizabeth Taylor, and Mexican film star María Félix. The firm’s original designs were essential to the self-expression of the individuals who shaped 20th century culture and fashion.

While Cartier is most famous for women’s jewelry, they have always produced sleek, handsome items that appeal to men. Louis Cartier, in fact, is often credited with inventing the modern men’s wristwatch. The exhibition’s “Masculine View” section includes numerous models and styles, in addition to elegant and complex pocket watches. Cartier also designed beautiful cuff links, pocket items, cocktail and desk accessories, and inscribed cigarette cases. Historic events, such

as Charles Lindbergh’s flight across the Atlantic, Franklin Roosevelt’s role in the Allies’ World War II victory, and the American lunar landing, were commemorated by inscribed gift items made by Cartier and featured in the exhibition.

This exhibition opens on November 16 and runs through March 15 of next year. Don’t miss this opportunity to take in these treasures.

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MADE IN NEW YORK WITH THE WORLD’S FINEST MATERIALS

A portion of the proceeds will be donated to the non-profit, HoneyLove.org

Sectora Nuova

www.jeandeve.ch

LUSTROUS COLLECTIONS

TEAM : Photography : Thomas Claisse @AlmaKarina Agency Art Direction : Karina Rikun @ AlmaKarina Agency

VAN CLEEF AND ARPELS

Butterfly Symphony Watch

CHOPARD

Imperiale Collection Watch Animal World Collection Ring

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DE GRISOGONO

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Allegra Watch Ring

CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

Constellation du Lion Watch

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CHANEL FINE JEWELRY

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Panache Watch Soleil Brooch

INTERNATIONAL FLAIR FOR WOMEN

by Nancy Pier Sindt

Wendy Yue’s fanciful ‘Tears of the Forbidden Fruit’ necklace features a precious rainbow of tanzanite, pink and yellow sapphires, green garnet, opals and diamonds enhanced by a setting of blackened 18-karat gold.

Women designing jewelry for women; it makes perfect sense. Not that male designers haven’t produced some of the beautiful treasures we store in our jewelry boxes, but after all, the lion’s share of jewelry sold today is destined to be owned and worn by women. Who better then, to understand the most flexible link for a chain, the gentlest wrap of a cuff, the perfect balance of a ring or the ideal weight of an earring?

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BRAZIL Like the fashion industry, there have been female design pioneers in jewelry – Jeanne Toussaint of Cartier, Suzanne Belperron, and, more recently, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany, but only a handful. Luckily, today there is a bold new crop of international designers who not only appreciate the challenge of creating wearable art, but also intuit the taste of today’s most stylish women. Their range of materials is vast; so too are their individual styles and interpretations.

Chinese born and internationally schooled Wendy Yue says the meaning of her work is “up to the interpretation of the beholder. It may be an emotion, an atmosphere, a melody, or a memory that a piece evokes.” Her most notable designs are playful, multicolored pieces with nature-inspired themes.

Brazilian designer Carla Amorim infuses her jewelry with rainbows of her country’s native gemstones. Her contemporary collections are characterized by brilliance and energy, with gems set in 18-karat yellow, white, rose and black gold, often with a matte finish. Major inspirations include architecture, faith, nature and culture.

The rich colors of India and the beauty of nature’s hues, shapes and abstract forms are constant sources of inspiration for New Delhi-based Neha Danhi. Her “miniature sculptures” are prized by private collectors and jewelry connoisseurs.

Every design has its own story, she says, and some pieces are designed so they move with the wearer, thus expressing the emotions of the one who wears them.

Tantalizing as gumdrops, Carla Amorim’s Basilica ruby and tsavorite earrings in openwork 18-karat gold settings add dazzle to any outfit.

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American modernist Judith Conway says designing jewelry that women wanted to wear was her mission when she launched her brand. Before that time, most jewelry manufacturers bought designs from freelance model makers – mostly men –and “the idea of what women

wanted wasn’t usually the goal,” says Judith Conway.

“They didn’t understand the smaller details of comfort, durability or ease of wear.” Conway’s signature bridal and fashion designs are sculptural soaring silhouettes, frequently blending several sizes and shapes of diamonds. They are

Dramatic ‘Lily’ collar centered by a 78.40-carat heliodor and accented with petals of white diamonds, spessartite, peridots and yellow sapphires in 18-karat pink gold is by Guya Merkle for Vieri Haute Joaillerie.

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eye-catching and bold, yet comfortable and wearable.

Not only are today’s female jewelers aware of styles that are right for women, many also have a higher purpose to their work. For example, Pforzheim-based Guya Merkle, designer for Vieri Haute Joaillerie, has put her signature

on ethically-produced gold jewelry. A trip to gold mines in Peru early in her career made her aware of the need for luxury to have a conscience. Today, Merkle’s company is one of the first high jewelry houses that exclusively use responsibly sourced gold.

GERMANY CHINA INDIA

Neha Dani’s ‘Twirling Shimmer’ earrings of 18-karat rose gold feature undulating ribbons of diamonds suspended from a branch of pear-shaped diamonds at the top.

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USA

An engineering and creative marvel, this platinum and diamond ‘Celebrations’ ring

by Judith Conway sparkles with three rows of specially cut baguette and round diamonds in an undulating organic shape.

Designed by Women for Women, is just part of the story at Gumuchian, a brand created by a mother-and-two-daughter design team. The styles are feminine, romantic and playful in 18-karat gold diamonds and gemstones. The latest “B” collection, with its bee-andhoneycomb themes, has a higher purpose: a portion of the proceeds of its sales will go to HoneyLove.org, an association devoted to urban bee-keeping and home gardens. u

Symbolizing nature’s elegance, this 18-karat gold honeycomb cuff bracelet from Gumuchian’s ‘B’Collection is accented by 42 round, brilliant-cut diamonds.

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GALA FOR A CAUSE Ralph Lauren Corporation’s help in the fight against breast cancer announced at a gala held at Windsor Castle

by Carol Besler

R

alph Lauren recently announced the formation of the Ralph Lauren Centre for Breast Cancer Research at a gala dinner at Windsor Castle outside of London. The gala, attended by members of the Royal Family as well as a number of celebrities, was hosted by HRH The Duke of Cambridge, president of the Royal Marsden Hospital, which is the co-founder of the new Ralph Lauren Centre for Breast Cancer Research.

Founded in London, England in 1851, the Royal Marsden was the world’s first hospital dedicated

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to oncology and cancer treatment.

“Our commitment to the Royal Marsden will support their pioneering research in personalized breast cancer management,” says Ralph Lauren. “It is our hope that efforts like this can impact cancer treatment on a global scale.”

Ralph Lauren Corporation has historically contributed to many charitable organizations, including The Polo Ralph Lauren Foundation.

The Polo Ralph Lauren Foundation’s Pink Pony Fund provides support to many cancer-related causes, including the Ralph Lauren Center for Cancer

Care and Prevention, which serves the Harlem community. Ralph Lauren became an early leader in the fight against breast cancer when his close friend, Nina Hyde, fashion editor of the Washington Post, died of the disease in 1990. In her memory, leadership grants were provided – along with donations from the late Katherine Graham of the Washington Post – to establish the Nina Hyde Center for Breast Cancer Research within the Lombardi Cancer Center at Georgetown University in Washington, DC. Stars in attendance at the recent Windsor Castle gala included Cate

Cate Blanchett attended the gala to celebrate the Royal Marsden’s work wearing New Romantic Chandelier earrings and a Ralph Lauren ivory silk Cady evening gown.

The New Romantic Chandelier collection from Ralph Lauren.

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Margot Robbie wears a gray light jersey evening dress by Ralph Lauren, as well as jewelry from the designer’s New Romantic Chandelier collection and Ralph Lauren Collection sandals.

Diamond and amethyst earrings from the New Romantic Chandelier collection by Ralph Lauren.

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Blanchett, who wore Ralph Lauren’s New Romantic Chandelier earrings, ivory silk Cady evening dress, diamond Chunky Chain ring and ivory suede pumps; Margot Robbie, wearing Ralph Lauren New Romantic Chandelier earrings, gray light jersey evening dress, Ralph Lauren Collection sandals; Zhang Ziyi, wearing Ralph Lauren Stirrup Stud earrings and a Ralph Lauren Collection gray tulle beaded evening dress.

Other stars in attendance wearing Ralph Lauren jewelry, fashions and footwear, included Emma Watson,

GALA FOR A CAUSE

Zhang Ziyi wears Ralph Lauren Stirrup Stud earrings and a Ralph Lauren Collection gray tulle beaded evening dress.

Stirrup stud earrings

by Ralph Lauren.

Helena Bonham Carter, Emeli SandĂŠ, Lily James, Cara Delevingne and many more. Ralph Lauren and his wife, Ricky, and children were also present, along with major donors and supporters of the hospital.

Featuring brilliance, movement and iconic beauty from the world of Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Fine Jewelry is handcrafted with exceptional materials and intricate finishing techniques, capturing the designer’s distinguished tradition of masterful craftsmanship. u FALL/WINTER 2014 43

marvelous

sler l Be aro

by C

MAUVE A new world of purple-toned jewelry hits the market this fall.

In response to Pantone’s proclamation of Radiant Orchid as the top color of 2014 and Mauve Mist among the top ten. The color purple has a big presence in jewelry this year, that means plenty of amethyst, iolite, Tanzanite, mauve shades of tourmaline, quartz and chalcedony (jasper), purple sapphire and even purple (mystic) topaz.

Pantone chooses the colors based on increased usage of certain colors in art, fashion, film and technology. The key to working with the colors in jewelry and gemstones is to mix the purple and mauve shades with other colored gemstones to create one-of-a-kind pieces. This year, the single, center gemstone, around which others are placed, is likely to be one of the purple stones.

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Arabesque pendant with rainbow moonstone and tanzanite accents, by Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry.

[Opposite] Balance of Power Earrings with amethyst double pyramids with diamond pavĂŠ set in 18k gold by Lauren Harpur.

Crushed frame necklace with Australian opal and tanzanite, in 18k yellow gold, on a chain with tanzanite gems, by Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry.

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Cushion Blue Sapphire Crystal Celebration Ring, with purple sapphire, diamonds, frosted amethyst in 18k white gold,

by Robert Procop.

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Earrings in graduated hues of amethyst, and white diamonds, from the Lady Stardust collection by Stephen Webster.

Amethyst, the birthstone for February, occurs in primary hues from a light pinkish violet to a deep purple.

The ideal grade is called deep Siberian and is a deeply saturated purple. At the other end of the spectrum is a light pink amethyst, often called rose de France. The name comes from the Ancient Greek “a methustos� meaning not intoxicated, a reference to the belief that the stone protected its owner from drunkenness. Amethyst is a variety of quartz, the same mineral that also yields citrine (yellowish

to orangish brown), prasiolite (green), lemon quartz and chalcedony (blue to purplish), all of which look great with amethyst.

Purple sapphire is one of the many fancy colors in which sapphire is available. It is a variety of corundum, as is ruby, and since it is a very hard gem, it is ideal for rings. A gift of a sapphire symbolizes a pledge of trust and loyalty.

Tanzanite, although prized in its bluest hues, mostly has an innately purplish tone of deep purple that makes it

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Amethyst and diamond pendant in 18k rose gold by Roberto Coin.

Dior VIII Grand Bal Plisse Soleil watch in steel and diamonds, with purple toned dial and mother-of-pearl rotor with mauve highlights.

highly collectible. Tanzanite is mined only in Tanzania at the feet of the majestic Mount Kilimanjaro, which makes it quite rare among gemstones. In smaller sizes, Tanzanite tends toward the lighter tones and the lavender color is more common. While in larger sizes, tanzanite typically displays deeper, richer color.

Iolite is another purplish gem – a rich violet-blue – that is getting a lot of play in jewelry recently. The name is from the Greek “ios,” meaning violet. While it is not as

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well known as sapphire and tanzanite, this pleasing blue gemstone is gaining widespread popularity for its beauty and its attractive affordability.

Topaz is a beautiful gem that can be heat treated to project a purplish hue, with the resulting gem referred to as “mystic topaz.” The gem is rare, but beautiful and affordable.

Opal is a hot gem at the moment, and specimens with shades of purple in their play of color are especially prized at the moment. Opal is revered as a symbol of hope, fidelity

Nefertiti earring with pink sapphires and chrysophase set in 18k black gold by Lauren Harpur.

and purity, and was dubbed the Queen of Gems by the ancient Romans because it encompassed the colors of all other gems.

As popular as purple is at the moment, there is no need to limit your palette to that hue; try mixing and matching purple gems with other colored gemstones in unique combinations. The color purple has always looked great with green, so tsavorite and peridot are popping up in a lot of designs this season. And for an edgy look, try mixing dark

purple with black diamonds or black sapphire. Designers are also mixing purple stones with lemon quartz, aquamarine, peridot and pink stones, such as pink tourmaline or pink sapphire.

Aside from picking pieces that combine these colors, another way to achieve unique combinations is by stacking rings and bangles or layering pendants and necklaces. The stacking and layering look is now a classic look, and one of the most important looks in fine jewelry, allowing wearers

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Nudo rings by Pomellato in 18k rose and white gold with faceted blue topaz, amethyst and lemon quartz with white diamond pavĂŠ.

to mix and match for a different look every time. It is part of a sub-trend toward layering smaller pieces together, which makes it easy to wear different gemstones in unique combinations.

In terms of categories, the cocktail ring is still an important essential in fine jewelry, and this is where large, unique gemstones with smaller accent stones really shine. Try a large amethyst cabochon surrounded by pink sapphires or pink tourmalines, or even tsavorite garnets – or

both! Earrings, which are longer and bulkier this season, serve as another large canvas for colored gems, where large and smaller gems in various colors can be mixed together for a bold look.

So if wearing a purple pants suit or gown seems like too much of a bold color statement, try accenting your look with a bold piece of jewelry that has a precious splash of purple! u

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Hiarstyle for the Son Jung Wan collection.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NY FASHIONFLY KATJA MAAS

Behind the scenes at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK IN NEW YORK

by Pamela Bailey

FALL/WINTER 2014 51

We’ve all seen them wafting gracefully across the pages of glossy style magazines, not to mention the fashion pages of the New York Times, Washington Post and Chicago Tribune. Those elegant creatures sashaying down the catwalks of New York Fashion Week, effortlessly modeling stunning, chic and stylish collections in sumptuous silks, satins, linens and cashmere.

And so we pore over our style bibles, looking to home in on designers and trends that we can readily adapt into our wardrobes for practical, everyday wear without ending up looking like some hapless, self-deluding fashion victim.

Perhaps you’re one of the lucky few fashionistas to regularly appear on the guest lists of the most coveted shows at Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week in New York. For many mere mortals however, a ringside seat at New York Fashion Week remains as elusive as sighting a unicorn. We decided it was high time to set that to rights.

And so Éclat International invites you to become our VIP guest, and accompany us behind the scenes to see what really goes into the staging of one of these 10 minute, never-to-berepeated fashion spectaculars. We based ourselves in the Salon and the Pavilion at the Lincoln Center in central Manhattan – the nerve centre of New York Fashion Week – to capture the

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This page from KATYA ZOL the most exciting newcomer to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Gown from her Fall 2014 “Mongolia”collection.

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5 1. Actress Natalia Lepore Hagan’s outfit is steamed for the conga finale. 2.Early start at Jill Stuart. 3. Katherine McNamara sparkles among the celebrities backstage at Nanette Lepore. 4. Lepore’s model daughter, Violet. 5. Makeup and hair for Son Jung Wan. 6. Choreography briefing and run through just before Son Jung Wan show.

feverish preparations leading up to the Spring and Fall 2014 collections from designers Katya Zol, Nicholas K, Jill Stuart, Mara Hoffman, Nanette Lepore and Son Jung Wan. For one glorious week, from 9am til late, designers from all over the world are given a single time slot during which they will have just 10 minutes to stun us with their creativity and brilliance. When the curtain falls, that production team packs up to be replaced by another crew and preparations begin all over again for the next designer’s show, set to kick off within the hour.

New York Fashion Week is therefore a crazy mixture of high-energy bursts interspersed with long pauses and anxious waits. A series of thrills – though, hopefully, no spills - with

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even a few yawns thrown in for good measure. The day begins at the crack of dawn for there is so much for the skilled army of hair and beauty stylists, dressers, lighting and stage crew to fine tune before the whirlwind 10 minute performance where the design team’s eagerly-anticipated collection, representing six months or more of creative work and superlative atelier execution, is released to the critics.

With such a heavy schedule of creative preparations taking place at breakneck speed backstage, it’s perhaps unsurprising that virtually every show starts at least half an hour late... though before we reach the magnificent, magical reveal on the catwalk, backstage is on fire. It’s thrilling stuff, with every single show representing a truly Herculean team achievement.

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7. What the audience is wearing. 8. Enthusiastic crowd moments before Mara Hoffmen. 9. Wigs create the strong look for Nicholas K show. 10. Conga party tops off the Lepore show. 11.Jake the boxer welcomes guests.

Hair and make-up are frenetically crafted, running orders and music organized by backstage managers, outfits steamed, and slender, exquisite models dressed and coached by stylists and producers. And all this within working areas barely two feet square. The atmosphere is electric, charged with anticipation as media (photographers and film crews) conduct interviews and shoot every tiny detail of the preparation process ahead of the unveiling of next season’s collections. And beneath this intense media scrutiny, unruffled, the production team navigates expertly about their business. It’s no place for the faint-hearted.

Final choreography rehearsals typically take place out on the catwalk 30 minutes before curtain up. One quick run

through for each model before “You’re on!” and it’s time to strut your stuff and sell the designer’s exquisite creations to the waiting clientele and the world’s media as this season’s must-have items.

And, once the show is on the road, the most wonderfully unexpected things can happen. At one show, the designers’ dog takes centre stage. At another, a raucous party bursts exuberantly out onto the catwalk, cannily providing ideal photo opportunities to capture priceless column inches in the world’s fashion press. And the teamwork isn’t confined to backstage.

On the risers, fashion photographers – both novice and experienced veterans - help one another to solve last minute

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12. iPhones primed to capture the moment and be first to post to Instagram. 13. Stunning acrobatics set the scene for Katya Zol. 14. The production team dress the stage and check lights ready for next show.... 15. Camera, Lights and more action!

mechanical and technical issues, working together to ensure that no one is left behind or misses the outstanding shot from each show. The setting of New York Fashion Week may seem like an intoxicating mix of vanity, fantasy and opulence, however - for those taking part - the experience turns out to be precisely the opposite. Rather it’s a remarkable weeklong collaboration, showcasing the very best in teamwork, creativity, cooperation and mutual support, irrespective of occasionally-divergent agendas. u

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BEHIND BehindTHE theSCENES scenes atAT MERCEDESBENZ FASHION WEEK IN NEW YORK MERCEDES-BENZ

FASHION WEEK IN NEW YORK

MOROCCO

by Pamela Bailey

PHOTOGRAPHS BY WENDY SHENFELD FALL/WINTER 2014 57

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(previous page) The souks of Marrakech 2. Unfinished pottery thrown by local artisans, drying before the next step of glazing 3. Colored glazes.

There are a thousand different inducements drawing travelers to Morocco. For some, it’s the siren call of mystery and the promise of adventure. For others, it’s the Crosby, Stills & Nash classic “Marrakech Express”. For me it was George Orwell’s 1939 essay “Marrakech”, read in grade 10 at my very proper girls’ school, which had seared itself into my consciousness igniting an intense desire to visit – one that only grew over time.

For my delightful travelling companion – my long-term friend and immensely talented jewelry designer, Catherine – it was the lure of the light and the colours, and gentleness of the charming, hospitable people. And the possibility of hidden treasures just waiting to be discovered, tucked away in the ancient souks – those long, narrow, labyrinthine bazaars that function in much the same frenetic way today as they have for centuries.

I have to confess to my ignorance of Marrakech being known, apparently universally, as The Red City. Founded in 1062 by the Berber chieftain Abu Bakr ibn Umar, it’s really more a pink city which proved a delightful bonus when combined with the explosion of colour in the city’s many 58

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public rose gardens. I’m not even sure I know what I had been expecting, but it certainly wasn’t that.

Marrakech and its beautiful gardens have inspired many a creative type, including Yves Saint Laurent and his patron Pierre Bergé who in 1980 bought the Cubist villa commissioned by the French painter Jacques Majorelle and established the 3 fabulous Jardin Majorelle to prevent it from being turned into a hotel. A team of 20 gardeners now tend the stunning gardens, ponds and fountains which so inspired Yves Saint Laurent and now provide a tranquil oasis for visitors to Marrakech.

I love exploring new (to me) cities to get my bearings while trying to take the pulse of my new environment.

And my efforts were amply rewarded with the incalculable riches of Morocco’s jaw-dropping wealth of outstanding architecture. Alongside the sacred Islamic geometry and calligraphy sits a strong Spanish influence – Andalucian, more accurately – reflected in numerous buildings.

Marrakech is the location for the tombs of Morocco’s

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4. Even the streets are colorful. 5. The tanneries in Fes where the technique used to dye the leather has not changed since medieval times. 6. Fruit cart.

seven patron saints and was formerly a sacred site attracting thousands of pilgrims annually. In fact, European Christians were not allowed into Marrakech until 1867 unless they acquired special permission from the Sultan, though east European Jews were permitted.

Thankfully, such restrictions no longer apply and we booked ourselves on a semi-private walking tour of the city, led by the most charming, sophisticated and erudite guide who spoke so many languages that I felt embarrassed with my merely passable French and extremely rusty German.

With patience and wit, he educated us regarding the 16th century Saadian tombs – the final resting place of more than 60 members of this powerful dynasty, lavishly decorated with the most exquisite mosaics. Then it was off to the 12th century Ben Youssef Mosque with its green tiled roof and towering minaret. In a touching anecdote, our guide pointed out the flagpole protruding at 90 degrees from the lofty minaret – installed so that deaf people could “hear’ the call to prayer. And we found Morocco to have all manner of

these inclusive touches woven without ceremony into the very fabric of life, and rendering us both more than a little wistful that we, in the West, have definitely lost something in our relentless push towards “bigger and better”.

But if the noise and bustle of the city proves too much, it’s simplicity itself to escape Marrakech for the cool, tranquil, snow-capped Atlas 6 Mountains. Once again, we joined a small guided tour to visit the villages which are home to the ancient and proud Berber people. Over a ubiquitous mint tea, we chatted with fellow travelers from Canada, the States, Australia, Singapore and the Netherlands. Our attention drawn by the happy shouts of children at play, we were dumbfounded to see two children with red hair and green eyes splashing in the shallows of the nearby stream. Our guide proceeded to regale us with tales of Vikings who had come to the mountains, many moons before, in a longship.

Hard to entertain such tall tales, yet there stood the little redheads ….

If a little retail therapy is more to your taste, Morocco offers many studios specialising in exquisite handmade rugs FALL/WINTER 2014 59

Traditional artisan crafts are reflected throughout the interiors of the Royal Monsour Hotel in Old Marrakech.

but play safe and invest in some expert advice in order to choose wisely. Moroccan handicrafts in brass, cedar and ceramics make desirable objets d’art and the central Medina or square, Jemaa elFnaa is a UNESCO World Heritage site bustling with life at night – the perfect place for an evening stroll, some window shopping and the ideal venue to pick up a delicious late night snack.

I’m not alone in being bewitched by Morocco’s many charms.

Winston Churchill discovered his inner artist, learning to paint while a guest at the sumptuous La Mamounia Hotel in Marrakech.

Accolades too numerous to mention have been heaped on this luxurious spa oasis since its reopening in fall 2009.

Little surprise that it has won favour with the international jet set. Everyone from Mick Jagger to Prince Charles, all valuing 60

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being able to pass unhindered through its elegant halls. I cannot recommend highly enough the delights of sipping a delicious and expertly-prepared cocktail on the hotel’s rear patio, overlooking the beautifully manicured gardens while the sun slips gently behind the horizon. With such an abundance of natural riches at hand, it’s small wonder Churchill felt the urge to pick up those brushes.

If you’re not much of a walker, minivan tours can be arranged to whisk you around the main sites with the minimum of fuss. Everyone we met in Morocco – from the Maître D to the youngest pool attendant – was patient, accommodating and utterly charming. Completely disarming but these, clearly, are a warm, welcoming, gentle people proud of their heritage, and

The unforgettable vivid exterior of Yves Saint Laurent’s house in the Jardin Majorelle.

delighted to share it with anyone who expresses an interest.

In recognition of that genuine concern, Catherine and I regularly chose as our preferred cab driver a tall, distinguished man in his sixties dressed in the Berber’s traditional long, loosefitting Djellaba. The head of a family of sons – all taxi drivers – he freely shared with us the true fares and best routes to the key attractions of Marrakech, whether or not we chose to travel with him. Which of course we did. And I broached the sensitive subject with him – as a non-Arabic speaker – whether it was acceptable to speak French: the language of their former Colonial masters. To which he smiled and advised to my great relief that, since French was neither of our mother tongues, this would be entirely acceptable.

They say an army marches on its stomach and I am no exception. Refreshing mint tea is a staple in Morocco and a welcome thirst quencher on searingly-hot days, or when the hot and dusty Chergui wind blows in from the east. And no visit would be complete without sampling Morocco’s signature dish: lamb tajine, slow cooked using steam in an earthenware pot with fruit, olives, preserved lemons and cumin, saffron, peppers and turmeric served over light as air couscous.

The chef batted not an eyelid when this vegetarian asked, rather meekly, for a non meat option. He promptly prepared an equally mouthwatering variation featuring a cornucopia of vegetables and chick peas expertly seasoned with the same spices and rose petals. Absolute heaven.

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The art of zellige. (enamelled tilework) Historically, patrons of the arts used zellige to decorate their homes as a statement of luxury and the sophistication of the inhabitants. The cities of Fes and Meknes remain the centers of this art.

I have been extremely fortunate to travel to many countries and most continents, and my wanderlust is far from sated. But I have to say that the week spent in Morocco passed more quickly than almost any trip before it, and still I feel that I barely scratched the surface of this enticing country and its warm, welcoming people. u

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MOROCCO

SANGRIA TRENDS by Manon Crespi SANGRIA’S sumptuously deep, purplish red color is one of Pantone’s top 10 colors for women this fall.

The matt cashmere and fur textures of this Ellie Saab coat make a nice pairing with Nada G’s sparkling pink sapphires and warm, yellow gold ring and earrings.

Dress: ELIE SAAB Cashmere Coat with Fox Collar; Coat: Suggested Retail $6,900, Fox Collar: Suggested Retail $2,750, ELIE SAAB Stores.

Photo: Ellie Saab

Handbag: ELIE SAAB Pony and Niloticus Handbag; Suggested Retail $12,425, ELIE SAAB Stores.

Photo: Ellie Saab

Boots: ELIE SAAB Suede Goatskin and Lambskin Leather Boots; Suggested Retail $1,175, ELIE SAAB Stores.

Photo: Ellie Saab

Ring: Nada G Malak oval ring is 18K brushed gold set with 8cts of multi-colored sapphire. Request price.

Nadag.com

Earrings: Nada G Mood Swings earrings are 18K brushed gold set with 0.70 carats colored sapphire. Request price: Nadag.com

Photo: Bernard Khalil

Photo: Bernard Khalil

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50s CHIC 1950’s CHIC gets an update with an edge. Ilgiz F. adds fresh perspective to the traditional pearl using faceted pearls in his Wisteria earrings, and ESARSI spices up the classic black pump with ruthenium spikes neatly tucked behind the heel.

Bracelet: David Webb’s Tuxedo Bracelet is made with faceted rock crystal links, brilliant cut diamonds, black enamel, 18K gold, and platinum. Suggested retail: $78,000. David Webb Boutique, New York and Beverly Hills.

Photo: David Webb

Shoes: ESARSI Elda black suede leather pumps with spiked ruthenium accessory; Suggested Retail $875, Esarsi.com Photo: Thorsten Roth

Dress: Christian Siriano textured crepe and bias draped strapless dress; Suggested Retail $1,860, Christiansiriano.com Handbag: Christian Siriano cream crocodile embossed leather handbag; Suggested Retail $695, Christiansiriano.com Photo: Jay Marroquin

Earrings: Ilgiz F. Wisteria chandelier earrings in 18K yellow gold, enamel, diamonds with faceted pearls; Suggested Retail $24,000, Annoushka-jewellery.com

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DIGITAL PRINT Inspired DIGITAL highlights the influence of technology and how it ventures beyond social platforms to fashion platforms, finding new and inspired applications in clothing, accessories, and jewelry. The imbedded 3D print geometric shapes in this Andrea Li cuff sync harmoniously with Mary Katrantzou dress and Serpui Marie evening clutch.

Cuff: Andrea Li cuff of Rainbow Pyrite, Aquamarine briolette, Labradorite, Citrine, Purple Amethyst, Green Amethyst, London Blue Topaz, Swiss Blue Topaz, Lemon Topaz, Black Spinel, pearls, and 3D printed 24K gold-filled geometric shapes; Cuff: Suggested Retail $1300.

Andreali.com Photo: Zerilli Studios

Handbag: Serpui Marie miniaudiere is made with patchwork mother-of-pearl.

Suggested retail: $610.

Farfetch.com

Top/Skirt: Mary Katrantzou Merino and virgin wool blend top, floor length pleated wool maxi dress with handembroidered panel;Top: Suggested Retail $1,630, Dress: Suggested Retail $11,870.

Net-A-Porter.com and Marykatrantzou.com.

Photo: Serpui Marie

Photo: Now Fashion

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