500 Hidden Secrets of Ghent

Page 1


INTRODUCTION

This is a guide to the Ghent that almost no one knows. It tells you about the undiscovered chapels where you might be the only visitor, the cool coffee bars that play the best music and the hidden parks that are no bigger than a back garden. The book doesn’t tell you everything there is to see. There are already guide books and websites that cover the familiar tourist places. This book goes one step further and lists the places the author would recommend to a friend who wanted to discover the real Ghent. Here you will find the 5 best places to eat frites when hunger strikes, the 5 museums that no one should miss and the 5 coolest cycle routes out of town. The aim is to take the reader to the unexpected places that are different in some way from the normal tourist destinations. With this book tucked in your pocket, you can set out to find the most unexpected view of Ghent, the best place to find a snack at 2 am, and the most romantic place to drink a cocktail. This book also takes you to some of the strangest places in Ghent, like the vineyard hidden behind a high wall, the museum of madness and the network of canalside trails. It reveals a time travel machine in an antique store and a wallpaper shop that hasn’t changed in 50 years. You do not have to do everything listed in the book, but you are urged at the very least to drink a Gruut beer in one of the 5 best bars, eat at one of the 5 best vegetarian restaurants, and watch a film in one of the 5 best small cinemas. If you do so, you will begin to understand one of the most undiscovered cities in Europe.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK?

This guide lists 500 things you need to know about Ghent in 100 different categories. Most of these are places to visit, with practical information to help you find your way. Others are bits of information that help you get to know the city and its habitants. The aim of this guide is to inspire, not to cover the city from A to Z. The places listed in the guide are given an address, including the neighbourhood, and a number. The neighbourhood and number allow you to find the locations on the maps at the beginning of the book: first look for the map of the corresponding neighbourhood, then look for the right number. The maps are not detailed enough to allow you to find specific locations in the city, but you can obtain an excellent map from any tourist office or in most hotels. Or the addresses can be located on a smartphone. Please also bear in mind that cities change all the time. The chef who hits a high note one day may be uninspiring on the day you happen to visit. The bar considered one of the 5 best places for live music might be empty on the night you visit. This is obviously a highly personal selection. You might not always agree with it. If you want to leave a comment, recommend a bar or reveal your favourite secret place, please visit the website www.the500hiddensecrets.com or follow @500hiddensecrets on Instagram or Facebook and leave a comment.


INTRODUCTION

This is a guide to the Ghent that almost no one knows. It tells you about the undiscovered chapels where you might be the only visitor, the cool coffee bars that play the best music and the hidden parks that are no bigger than a back garden. The book doesn’t tell you everything there is to see. There are already guide books and websites that cover the familiar tourist places. This book goes one step further and lists the places the author would recommend to a friend who wanted to discover the real Ghent. Here you will find the 5 best places to eat frites when hunger strikes, the 5 museums that no one should miss and the 5 coolest cycle routes out of town. The aim is to take the reader to the unexpected places that are different in some way from the normal tourist destinations. With this book tucked in your pocket, you can set out to find the most unexpected view of Ghent, the best place to find a snack at 2 am, and the most romantic place to drink a cocktail. This book also takes you to some of the strangest places in Ghent, like the vineyard hidden behind a high wall, the museum of madness and the network of canalside trails. It reveals a time travel machine in an antique store and a wallpaper shop that hasn’t changed in 50 years. You do not have to do everything listed in the book, but you are urged at the very least to drink a Gruut beer in one of the 5 best bars, eat at one of the 5 best vegetarian restaurants, and watch a film in one of the 5 best small cinemas. If you do so, you will begin to understand one of the most undiscovered cities in Europe.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK?

This guide lists 500 things you need to know about Ghent in 100 different categories. Most of these are places to visit, with practical information to help you find your way. Others are bits of information that help you get to know the city and its habitants. The aim of this guide is to inspire, not to cover the city from A to Z. The places listed in the guide are given an address, including the neighbourhood, and a number. The neighbourhood and number allow you to find the locations on the maps at the beginning of the book: first look for the map of the corresponding neighbourhood, then look for the right number. The maps are not detailed enough to allow you to find specific locations in the city, but you can obtain an excellent map from any tourist office or in most hotels. Or the addresses can be located on a smartphone. Please also bear in mind that cities change all the time. The chef who hits a high note one day may be uninspiring on the day you happen to visit. The bar considered one of the 5 best places for live music might be empty on the night you visit. This is obviously a highly personal selection. You might not always agree with it. If you want to leave a comment, recommend a bar or reveal your favourite secret place, please visit the website www.the500hiddensecrets.com or follow @500hiddensecrets on Instagram or Facebook and leave a comment.


Map 1 CENTRAL GHENT 332 312

142

223

166

5

201

122

163

295

10

97 385

455

81 203

434

29

216

291 403

Sint-Michielskerk Oude Houtl

363

437 129

124 278

25

378

256

47 153

ei

37

94 44

351 319

128

241

435

Leie

131 112

t

171

391

Kouter

aa

79

58

225 207

str en

229

325

211

er

57

248

at

63

at tra

3

92

istra

395

458

nd

gaa

452 338

aa

80

221

453

Pap e

451

239

355

93

253

393

64

Brab

394 454

antd

59 154

199

pu

u Co

362

Ketelvest

t

Ketelvaar

Coyendanspark

40

336

234

183 87 103

r

337

354

296 208

de

s rel

212

ol

Vl

232

33

280

rp

Ka

186

255

Sint-Baafskathedraal

249 245

Voldersstraat

43

de

er

233

28

ep Re

iz Ke

386

83

217 205

32

52

Ne

443 263 72 189 73

53 174 42

15

307

262 74 200 369 24 359 99

197

21

417

261

170

318

308

SintNiklaaskerk

152 398

392 285

419

257

am 146

214 2

162 23

DRINK

SHOP

FASHION

BUILDINGS

DISCOVER

CULTURE

SLEEP

WEEKEND

RANDOM

EAT

DRINK

SHOP

FASHION

BUILDINGS

Sint-Annaplein

127 436 240

Muin —

381

101

66

ksch

358

re

EAT

a and

410

306

115 379

at

472 121 299 95

36

ra st

125 105

184

t

91

w

t

190

us G

14 474

at

eu ni bs

237

Hoogstraa

ra

Hoo 227 gpo or

290 389

rst

334

o ac -J nt Si

136

de

461

155

477 27

On

215

58

210

193

Port

26

144

Sint-Jacobskerk

266

116

147

kt

p

219 71

ar

Re e

244

414

188

gm

p

13

182 224

Burgstraat

da

204

elde

309

Vr ij

Gravensteen

Re e

Begijnhofdriespark 360

Leie

Le

ie

Baudelopark

8

DISCOVER

CULTURE

SLEEP

WEEKEND

RANDOM


Map 1 CENTRAL GHENT 332 312

142

223

166

5

201

122

163

295

10

97 385

455

81 203

434

29

216

291 403

Sint-Michielskerk Oude Houtl

363

437 129

124 278

25

378

256

47 153

ei

37

94 44

351 319

128

241

435

Leie

131 112

t

171

391

Kouter

aa

79

58

225 207

str en

229

325

211

er

57

248

at

63

at tra

3

92

istra

395

458

nd

gaa

452 338

aa

80

221

453

Pap e

451

239

355

93

253

393

64

Brab

394 454

antd

59 154

199

pu

u Co

362

Ketelvest

t

Ketelvaar

Coyendanspark

40

336

234

183 87 103

r

337

354

296 208

de

s rel

212

ol

Vl

232

33

280

rp

Ka

186

255

Sint-Baafskathedraal

249 245

Voldersstraat

43

de

er

233

28

ep Re

iz Ke

386

83

217 205

32

52

Ne

443 263 72 189 73

53 174 42

15

307

262 74 200 369 24 359 99

197

21

417

261

170

318

308

SintNiklaaskerk

152 398

392 285

419

257

am 146

214 2

162 23

DRINK

SHOP

FASHION

BUILDINGS

DISCOVER

CULTURE

SLEEP

WEEKEND

RANDOM

EAT

DRINK

SHOP

FASHION

BUILDINGS

Sint-Annaplein

127 436 240

Muin —

381

101

66

ksch

358

re

EAT

a and

410

306

115 379

at

472 121 299 95

36

ra st

125 105

184

t

91

w

t

190

us G

14 474

at

eu ni bs

237

Hoogstraa

ra

Hoo 227 gpo or

290 389

rst

334

o ac -J nt Si

136

de

461

155

477 27

On

215

58

210

193

Port

26

144

Sint-Jacobskerk

266

116

147

kt

p

219 71

ar

Re e

244

414

188

gm

p

13

182 224

Burgstraat

da

204

elde

309

Vr ij

Gravensteen

Re e

Begijnhofdriespark 360

Leie

Le

ie

Baudelopark

8

DISCOVER

CULTURE

SLEEP

WEEKEND

RANDOM


100 PLACES TO EAT GOOD FOOD The 5 best restaurants for

The 5 best places for

N E W F L E M I S H C O O K I N G ——————————————— 20

The 5

COOLEST PL ACES TO EAT

——————————

22

The 5 best restaurants to

E A T L I K E A L O C A L ———— 24

The 5 best restaurants for

I T A L I A N F O O D —————— 26

The 5 most

R O M A N T I C R E S T A U R A N T S —————— 28

The 5 most authentic The 5 best

A S I A N R E S T A U R A N T S ——— 30

D E L I C A T E S S E N S ——————————————— 32

The 5 best

L U N C H ————————————————— 42

B A K E R I E S & C A K E S H O P S ——————— 44

The 5 best places for

B R U N C H ——————————————— 46

The 5 best places for

L A T E N I G H T F O O D —————— 48

The 5 best shops for

B E L G I A N C H O C O L A T E S ——— 51

The 5 best places for A U T H E N T I C B E L G I A N F R I T E S ——————————— 54

The 5 best

F O O D S H O P S —————————————————— 56

The 5 best places for

V E G E T A R I A N F O O D ————— 34

The 5 best shops for

The 5 best places for

C H E A P E A T S ———————————— 36

The 5 best

B E E R & W I N E ————————————— 58

C O F F E E R O A S T I N G S H O P S —————— 60

The 5 best places for

The 5 local specialities

S O U P & S A N D W I C H E S —————————————————— 39

Y O U M U S T E A T I N G H E N T —————————————— 62


100 PLACES TO EAT GOOD FOOD The 5 best restaurants for

The 5 best places for

N E W F L E M I S H C O O K I N G ——————————————— 20

The 5

COOLEST PL ACES TO EAT

——————————

22

The 5 best restaurants to

E A T L I K E A L O C A L ———— 24

The 5 best restaurants for

I T A L I A N F O O D —————— 26

The 5 most

R O M A N T I C R E S T A U R A N T S —————— 28

The 5 most authentic The 5 best

A S I A N R E S T A U R A N T S ——— 30

D E L I C A T E S S E N S ——————————————— 32

The 5 best

L U N C H ————————————————— 42

B A K E R I E S & C A K E S H O P S ——————— 44

The 5 best places for

B R U N C H ——————————————— 46

The 5 best places for

L A T E N I G H T F O O D —————— 48

The 5 best shops for

B E L G I A N C H O C O L A T E S ——— 51

The 5 best places for A U T H E N T I C B E L G I A N F R I T E S ——————————— 54

The 5 best

F O O D S H O P S —————————————————— 56

The 5 best places for

V E G E T A R I A N F O O D ————— 34

The 5 best shops for

The 5 best places for

C H E A P E A T S ———————————— 36

The 5 best

B E E R & W I N E ————————————— 58

C O F F E E R O A S T I N G S H O P S —————— 60

The 5 best places for

The 5 local specialities

S O U P & S A N D W I C H E S —————————————————— 39

Y O U M U S T E A T I N G H E N T —————————————— 62


The 5 best restaurants for NEW FLEMISH COOKING

1

2

Kim Devisschere worked under Flemish Vrouwebroersstraat 5 foodie Olly Ceulenaere before opening his Patershol ➁ own place in an old brick building in the +32 (0)9 310 67 73 Patershol. He has opted for an intimate rootsgent.be place with a friendly feel. Here he creates an inexpensive cooking involving striking flavours and rare vegetables. The walled garden at the back makes a special spot in summer.

Brabantdam 134 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 335 60 73 souvenir.gent

20

After several years in Ypres, acclaimed Icelandic chef Vilhjalmur Sigurdarson moved in 2018 to Ghent. His small, relaxed restaurant on the edge of the old town is decorated in a sober Scandinavian style. Sigurdarson creates sublime dishes using the simplest local ingredients including vegetables from local farms and the freshest fish from the North Sea.

VRIJMOED Vlaanderenstraat 22 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 279 99 77 vrijmoed.be

4

ROOTS

SOUVENIR GENT

3

PUBLIEK Ham 39 Dampoort Quarter ➅ +32 (0)9 330 04 86 publiekgent.be

5

NATURELL Jan Breydelstraat 10 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 279 07 08 naturell-gent.be

It has a sober interior with bare wood floorboards, white walls and starched tablecloths. The food is simply stunning. Try the seafood dish served with smoked eel, Granny Smith apples, fennel, lemon and Japanese dashi. But first you have to book a table, which can be difficult. Bare brick walls. Vintage chairs from an old school refectory. Olly Ceulenaere’s new restaurant may look austere, but the food is anything but plain. The chef worked in some of the best kitchens in the country before opening this restaurant in 2014. He creates sublime menus that are constantly surprising. Lieven Lootens opened a new concept restaurant on the Leie waterfront in 2014 where his aim is to provide a theatrical dining experience that stimulates all the senses. Lootens takes time to find the freshest ingredients in the region and is especially skilled at turning humble local vegetables like the cabbage into something really special on the plate.

21


The 5 best restaurants for NEW FLEMISH COOKING

1

2

Kim Devisschere worked under Flemish Vrouwebroersstraat 5 foodie Olly Ceulenaere before opening his Patershol ➁ own place in an old brick building in the +32 (0)9 310 67 73 Patershol. He has opted for an intimate rootsgent.be place with a friendly feel. Here he creates an inexpensive cooking involving striking flavours and rare vegetables. The walled garden at the back makes a special spot in summer.

Brabantdam 134 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 335 60 73 souvenir.gent

20

After several years in Ypres, acclaimed Icelandic chef Vilhjalmur Sigurdarson moved in 2018 to Ghent. His small, relaxed restaurant on the edge of the old town is decorated in a sober Scandinavian style. Sigurdarson creates sublime dishes using the simplest local ingredients including vegetables from local farms and the freshest fish from the North Sea.

VRIJMOED Vlaanderenstraat 22 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 279 99 77 vrijmoed.be

4

ROOTS

SOUVENIR GENT

3

PUBLIEK Ham 39 Dampoort Quarter ➅ +32 (0)9 330 04 86 publiekgent.be

5

NATURELL Jan Breydelstraat 10 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 279 07 08 naturell-gent.be

It has a sober interior with bare wood floorboards, white walls and starched tablecloths. The food is simply stunning. Try the seafood dish served with smoked eel, Granny Smith apples, fennel, lemon and Japanese dashi. But first you have to book a table, which can be difficult. Bare brick walls. Vintage chairs from an old school refectory. Olly Ceulenaere’s new restaurant may look austere, but the food is anything but plain. The chef worked in some of the best kitchens in the country before opening this restaurant in 2014. He creates sublime menus that are constantly surprising. Lieven Lootens opened a new concept restaurant on the Leie waterfront in 2014 where his aim is to provide a theatrical dining experience that stimulates all the senses. Lootens takes time to find the freshest ingredients in the region and is especially skilled at turning humble local vegetables like the cabbage into something really special on the plate.

21


VOORUIT

65 PLACES FOR A DRINK The 5 most

WELCOMING HIPSTER

C O F F E E B A R S ————————————————————————— 66

The 5 most

S T R I K I N G C A F E I N T E R I O R S ————— 68

The 5 best bars to

D R I N K L I K E A L O C A L —————— 70

The 5 bars with the

L O N G E S T B E E R L I S T S ————— 72

The 5 best bars for

J A Z Z & B L U E S ———————————— 74

The 5 most

M E L L O W C A F E S & C O F F E E B A R S —— 77

The 5 best

B A R S T O H E A R N E W B A N D S ————— 79

The 5 most

R O M A N T I C C A F E S ————————————— 81

The 5 best terraces for The 5 most

U N U S U A L C A F E S —————————————— 86

The 5 smartest

C O C K T A I L B A R S ———————————— 88

The 5 most inspiring The 5 best

S I T T I N G I N T H E S U N ——— 84

H Y B R I D C A F E S —————————— 90

LOCAL BEERS

and where to drink them—— 92


VOORUIT

65 PLACES FOR A DRINK The 5 most

WELCOMING HIPSTER

C O F F E E B A R S ————————————————————————— 66

The 5 most

S T R I K I N G C A F E I N T E R I O R S ————— 68

The 5 best bars to

D R I N K L I K E A L O C A L —————— 70

The 5 bars with the

L O N G E S T B E E R L I S T S ————— 72

The 5 best bars for

J A Z Z & B L U E S ———————————— 74

The 5 most

M E L L O W C A F E S & C O F F E E B A R S —— 77

The 5 best

B A R S T O H E A R N E W B A N D S ————— 79

The 5 most

R O M A N T I C C A F E S ————————————— 81

The 5 best terraces for The 5 most

U N U S U A L C A F E S —————————————— 86

The 5 smartest

C O C K T A I L B A R S ———————————— 88

The 5 most inspiring The 5 best

S I T T I N G I N T H E S U N ——— 84

H Y B R I D C A F E S —————————— 90

LOCAL BEERS

and where to drink them—— 92


The 5 most WELCOMING HIPSTER COFFEE BARS

101 MADAM BAKSTER Brabantdam 142 Central Ghent ➀ madambakster.be

102  CLOUDS IN MY COFFEE

102 CLOUDS

IN MY COFFEE Dendermondse­ steenweg 104 Dampoort Quarter ➅ +32 (0)9 336 84 34 clouds9000.com

103 GUST Enterprising local cook Laura Verhulst opened a new coffee bar in early 2017 where she sells healthy organic cakes based on her own recipes. Located on the edge of the red light district, it’s a bright modern place decorated with pale wood furniture, bare light bulbs and plants hanging from the ceiling.

Papegaaistraat 55 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 310 49 48 gustgent.be

104 ANA-ATTENTO Sint-Pieters­ nieuwstraat 126-A University Quarter ➃ +32 (0)492 72 25 01 Dok-Noord 7 Dampoort Quarter ➅

105 LABATH Oude Houtlei 1 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 225 28 25 cafelabath.be

66

Dutch designer Maurice Mentjens created this relaxed coffee bar with bare brick walls, mat black tables and old school chairs. It’s located next to a co-housing project in a neighbourhood of Turkish bakeries and cheap clothing stores. The owner also hosts a B&B in a former chapel. A perfect little cafe with designer lamps, round wooden tables and mellow background music. The friendly owner serves American pancakes for brunch, homemade food at lunchtime and really good coffee in delicate china cups. OR coffee bar transformed the local coffee scene when it opened in the student quarter in 2009. With its own roastery and trained baristas, it marked the beginning of a sophisticated coffee culture inspired by New York. Now under new owners and with a second branch in the Dok Noord district, OR has changed its name to Ana-attento. But the coffee is still as good. Students from the Sint-Lucas art academy fill this bright, buzzing coffee bar on weekday mornings. It is a relaxed place with big windows, white wooden chairs and lazy background jazz. The cakes they serve here come from Julie’s House.

67


The 5 most WELCOMING HIPSTER COFFEE BARS

101 MADAM BAKSTER Brabantdam 142 Central Ghent ➀ madambakster.be

102  CLOUDS IN MY COFFEE

102 CLOUDS

IN MY COFFEE Dendermondse­ steenweg 104 Dampoort Quarter ➅ +32 (0)9 336 84 34 clouds9000.com

103 GUST Enterprising local cook Laura Verhulst opened a new coffee bar in early 2017 where she sells healthy organic cakes based on her own recipes. Located on the edge of the red light district, it’s a bright modern place decorated with pale wood furniture, bare light bulbs and plants hanging from the ceiling.

Papegaaistraat 55 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 310 49 48 gustgent.be

104 ANA-ATTENTO Sint-Pieters­ nieuwstraat 126-A University Quarter ➃ +32 (0)492 72 25 01 Dok-Noord 7 Dampoort Quarter ➅

105 LABATH Oude Houtlei 1 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 225 28 25 cafelabath.be

66

Dutch designer Maurice Mentjens created this relaxed coffee bar with bare brick walls, mat black tables and old school chairs. It’s located next to a co-housing project in a neighbourhood of Turkish bakeries and cheap clothing stores. The owner also hosts a B&B in a former chapel. A perfect little cafe with designer lamps, round wooden tables and mellow background music. The friendly owner serves American pancakes for brunch, homemade food at lunchtime and really good coffee in delicate china cups. OR coffee bar transformed the local coffee scene when it opened in the student quarter in 2009. With its own roastery and trained baristas, it marked the beginning of a sophisticated coffee culture inspired by New York. Now under new owners and with a second branch in the Dok Noord district, OR has changed its name to Ana-attento. But the coffee is still as good. Students from the Sint-Lucas art academy fill this bright, buzzing coffee bar on weekday mornings. It is a relaxed place with big windows, white wooden chairs and lazy background jazz. The cakes they serve here come from Julie’s House.

67


45 PLACES TO SHOP

The 5 best

S M A L L & U N U S U A L S H O P S —————— 96

The 5 best

I N D E P E N D E N T B O O K S H O P S ————— 98

The 5 best

INDEPENDENT

R E C O R D S T O R E S ————————————————————— 101

The 5 best

D E S I G N S T O R E S —————————————— 103

The 5 best shops for The 5 best

A N T I Q U E S H O P S —————————————— 107

The 5 most romantic

F L O W E R S H O P S ———————— 110

The 5 most beautiful

S H O P I N T E R I O R S —————— 112

The 5 best

HELEN B EN VRIENDEN

U N U S U A L G I F T S ———————— 105

S T R E E T M A R K E T S ————————————— 114


45 PLACES TO SHOP

The 5 best

S M A L L & U N U S U A L S H O P S —————— 96

The 5 best

I N D E P E N D E N T B O O K S H O P S ————— 98

The 5 best

INDEPENDENT

R E C O R D S T O R E S ————————————————————— 101

The 5 best

D E S I G N S T O R E S —————————————— 103

The 5 best shops for The 5 best

A N T I Q U E S H O P S —————————————— 107

The 5 most romantic

F L O W E R S H O P S ———————— 110

The 5 most beautiful

S H O P I N T E R I O R S —————— 112

The 5 best

HELEN B EN VRIENDEN

U N U S U A L G I F T S ———————— 105

S T R E E T M A R K E T S ————————————— 114


The 5 best SMALL & UNUSUAL SHOPS

166 FALLEN ANGELS Jan Breydelstraat 29 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 223 94 15 the-fallen-angels.com

167 VITS-STAELENS Bij Sint-Jacobs 14 St-Jacobs Quarter ➂ +32 (0)9 223 14 69 vits-staelens. business.site

96

Isabelle Steel runs this dark, nostalgic shop filled with eccentric objects. She named it after a batch of abandoned angels she picked up when she opened the shop in 1980. As well as angels, the shop is crammed with tin toys, old school equipment and china dolls with sad glass eyes. Isabelle’s daughter Ganesha runs a second Fallen Angels shop next door. She likes to surprise her customers by slipping a handwritten note or little red hearts in their bag when they buy something. This is a strange old grocery store on a street corner facing the Sint-Jacobskerk. It is filled with the exotic smell of herbs and spices sold in little cellophane bags. Here you can find everything you need to flavour a vegetarian curry, along with tea, pasta and dried fruits.

168 PRIEM Zuivelbrugstraat 1 Patershol ➁ +32 (0)9 223 25 37

This old wallpaper shop has barely changed since it opened back in 1927. It is crammed with more than 10.000 rolls of rare vintage wallpaper dating from the 1950s to the 1980s. The shop stocks every style imaginable, from bold striped wallpaper to vintage floral designs. This Ghent institution is now run by the original owners’ two surviving children, both in their 80s.

169 BURKELBLOEM

This crowded little shop on the road Dampoortstraat 92 leading to Dampoort station is filled Dampoort Quarter ➅ with a glorious jumble of old objects. +32 (0)9 223 47 37 You squeeze between bird cages, faded postcards, decorated tin boxes and gold-rimmed coffee cups salvaged from bankrupt French hotels.

170 AGNES & MAURICE Predikherenlei 9 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)468 56 48 18 agnesmaurice.be

Emely and Silke have created an intimate store inside a 16th-century waterfront house on the Leie. Named after Emely’s grandmother Agnes and Silke’s grandfather Maurice, the shop is filled with eclectic items, including handmade painted stoneware, African jewellery, woollen hats from Scotland and the latest Japanese gadgets.

97


The 5 best SMALL & UNUSUAL SHOPS

166 FALLEN ANGELS Jan Breydelstraat 29 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 223 94 15 the-fallen-angels.com

167 VITS-STAELENS Bij Sint-Jacobs 14 St-Jacobs Quarter ➂ +32 (0)9 223 14 69 vits-staelens. business.site

96

Isabelle Steel runs this dark, nostalgic shop filled with eccentric objects. She named it after a batch of abandoned angels she picked up when she opened the shop in 1980. As well as angels, the shop is crammed with tin toys, old school equipment and china dolls with sad glass eyes. Isabelle’s daughter Ganesha runs a second Fallen Angels shop next door. She likes to surprise her customers by slipping a handwritten note or little red hearts in their bag when they buy something. This is a strange old grocery store on a street corner facing the Sint-Jacobskerk. It is filled with the exotic smell of herbs and spices sold in little cellophane bags. Here you can find everything you need to flavour a vegetarian curry, along with tea, pasta and dried fruits.

168 PRIEM Zuivelbrugstraat 1 Patershol ➁ +32 (0)9 223 25 37

This old wallpaper shop has barely changed since it opened back in 1927. It is crammed with more than 10.000 rolls of rare vintage wallpaper dating from the 1950s to the 1980s. The shop stocks every style imaginable, from bold striped wallpaper to vintage floral designs. This Ghent institution is now run by the original owners’ two surviving children, both in their 80s.

169 BURKELBLOEM

This crowded little shop on the road Dampoortstraat 92 leading to Dampoort station is filled Dampoort Quarter ➅ with a glorious jumble of old objects. +32 (0)9 223 47 37 You squeeze between bird cages, faded postcards, decorated tin boxes and gold-rimmed coffee cups salvaged from bankrupt French hotels.

170 AGNES & MAURICE Predikherenlei 9 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)468 56 48 18 agnesmaurice.be

Emely and Silke have created an intimate store inside a 16th-century waterfront house on the Leie. Named after Emely’s grandmother Agnes and Silke’s grandfather Maurice, the shop is filled with eclectic items, including handmade painted stoneware, African jewellery, woollen hats from Scotland and the latest Japanese gadgets.

97


40 PLACES FOR FASHION AND DESIGN The 5 most

C R E A T I V E F A S H I O N S T O R E S ——— 118

The 5 most inspiring

G H E N T D E S I G N E R S ————— 120

The 5 places most loved by The 5 best shops for

M E N ’ S F A S H I O N ———————— 124

The 5 best shops for

A C C E S S O R I E S —————————— 126

The 5 best shops for

J E W E L L E R Y ———————————— 128

The 5 best

V I N T A G E S H O P S —————————————— 130

The 5 best shops for

TWIGGY

F A S H I O N I S T A S ————— 122

K I D S C L O T H E S ————————— 132


40 PLACES FOR FASHION AND DESIGN The 5 most

C R E A T I V E F A S H I O N S T O R E S ——— 118

The 5 most inspiring

G H E N T D E S I G N E R S ————— 120

The 5 places most loved by The 5 best shops for

M E N ’ S F A S H I O N ———————— 124

The 5 best shops for

A C C E S S O R I E S —————————— 126

The 5 best shops for

J E W E L L E R Y ———————————— 128

The 5 best

V I N T A G E S H O P S —————————————— 130

The 5 best shops for

TWIGGY

F A S H I O N I S T A S ————— 122

K I D S C L O T H E S ————————— 132


The 5 most CREATIVE FASHION STORES

213 REWIND WOMEN Sint-Pieters­ nieuwstraat 44 University Quarter ➃ +32 (0)9 324 84 04 rewindstore.be

214 BILLIEROSE 211 TWIGGY Notarisstraat 3 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 223 95 66 twiggy.be

212 ILLINOIS Onderbergen 35 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)494 63 41 37 illinoisgent.be

118

This inspiring fashion store for men and women moved in 2012 into a grand 19th-century town house radically remodelled by the Ghent architects de vylder vinck taillieu. The upstairs rooms have a romantic look with old marble fireplaces and mirrors, but the real excitement is down in the basement where a floor has been ripped out to leave a fireplace suspended in mid-air and a door leading nowhere. The store sells brands like Acne, Paul Smith and Isabel Marant.

Brabantdam 135 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 222 63 39 billierose.be

215 CLICHÉ Hoogpoort 3-B Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)468 15 05 77 cliche-gent.com

A cool shop that brings together interesting Scandinavian and French designers. You find clothes by Samsøe & Samsøe, Sessùn and Surface to Air, along with neat leather bags by Becksöndergaard. Noor and her brother Wolf opened a tasteful concept store in 2016 on a small square near the red light district. Noor is responsible for the collection of clothes, jewellery and cushions in muted tones of grey and pink. And Wolf makes espresso coffee on a shiny new La Marzocco machine. Local women come to this tiny store to seek out unique clothes in bold colours. The owner mainly stocks sustainable Portuguese brands like Näz of Lisbon, as well as African jewellery by Soko of Kenya.

Eveline van Gestel has created a cool store named after an album by her favourite indie singer Sufjan Stevens. The interior is calm, with a large table in the middle made from an ancient plane tree and an antique display cabinet salvaged from a Dutch shop. She sells brands she likes to wear herself like Bellerose, Rains and Le Mont St Michel, along with jewellery, art books and a few of her favourite vinyl albums.

119


The 5 most CREATIVE FASHION STORES

213 REWIND WOMEN Sint-Pieters­ nieuwstraat 44 University Quarter ➃ +32 (0)9 324 84 04 rewindstore.be

214 BILLIEROSE 211 TWIGGY Notarisstraat 3 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 223 95 66 twiggy.be

212 ILLINOIS Onderbergen 35 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)494 63 41 37 illinoisgent.be

118

This inspiring fashion store for men and women moved in 2012 into a grand 19th-century town house radically remodelled by the Ghent architects de vylder vinck taillieu. The upstairs rooms have a romantic look with old marble fireplaces and mirrors, but the real excitement is down in the basement where a floor has been ripped out to leave a fireplace suspended in mid-air and a door leading nowhere. The store sells brands like Acne, Paul Smith and Isabel Marant.

Brabantdam 135 Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)9 222 63 39 billierose.be

215 CLICHÉ Hoogpoort 3-B Central Ghent ➀ +32 (0)468 15 05 77 cliche-gent.com

A cool shop that brings together interesting Scandinavian and French designers. You find clothes by Samsøe & Samsøe, Sessùn and Surface to Air, along with neat leather bags by Becksöndergaard. Noor and her brother Wolf opened a tasteful concept store in 2016 on a small square near the red light district. Noor is responsible for the collection of clothes, jewellery and cushions in muted tones of grey and pink. And Wolf makes espresso coffee on a shiny new La Marzocco machine. Local women come to this tiny store to seek out unique clothes in bold colours. The owner mainly stocks sustainable Portuguese brands like Näz of Lisbon, as well as African jewellery by Soko of Kenya.

Eveline van Gestel has created a cool store named after an album by her favourite indie singer Sufjan Stevens. The interior is calm, with a large table in the middle made from an ancient plane tree and an antique display cabinet salvaged from a Dutch shop. She sells brands she likes to wear herself like Bellerose, Rains and Le Mont St Michel, along with jewellery, art books and a few of her favourite vinyl albums.

119


COLOPHON E D I T I N G and COM P OS I N G — Derek Blyth GRA PH I C D ES I G N — Joke Gossé and doublebill.design PH OTO G R A P HY — Joram Van Holen en Jonas Mertens A DDI T I O N A L P HOTOG R AP HY — pp. 31, 34, 49, 94, 106,

111, 122, 127, 139, 193: Silvie Bonne — silviebonne.be — p. 206: Tony Le Duc — tonyleduc.be The addresses in this book have been selected after thorough independent research by the author, in collaboration with Luster Publishing. The selection is solely based on personal evaluation of the business by the author. Nothing in this book was published in exchange for payment or benefits of any kind.

D/2021/12.005/17 I S B N 978 94 6058 3018 N U R 511, 510

© 2014 Luster Publishing, Antwerp Sixth edition, November 2021 – Fifth reprint, November 2021 lusterweb.com – THE500HID D E NS EC RE TS.CO M info@lusterweb.com Printed in Italy by Printer Trento.

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior written consent of the publisher. An exception is made for short excerpts, which may be cited for the sole purpose of reviews.


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