adidas outdoor magazine fall/winter 2012

adidas.com/outdoor

FALL WINTER 2012

tine huber

snow queens all-inclusive

turkey

climbing fascination patagonia

reinhold messner guido unterwurzacher

ice climbing rough feels good

scottish mixed climbing

outdoor t highlights fall / winter 2012

adidas outdoor magazine & produc

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DAV Summit Club GmbH is the German Alpine Association’s mountaineering school and special travel organizer for active mountaineering and cultural vacations worldwide. DAV Summit Club evolved from the mountaineering service of the DAV founded in 1957 and is now one of the largest mountaineering schools in the world.

outdoor Magazine & Product Highlights Fall / Winter 2012 is the official outdoor catalog with editorial content of adidas AG. adidas outdoor Magazine is published twice a year.

The Zugspitze Mountaineering School is the mountain guide association on Germany’s highest mountain. The specialist knowledge of the team is clear from the high quality of training and tours they provide. Some are old hands with a valuable source of knowledge; others are up-todate thanks to their training activities with various alpine associations and many tours with their clients, who they don’t only accompany up the Zugspitze.

Published by adidas AG World of Sports Adi-Dassler-Straße 1 91074 Herzogenaurach – Germany

Founded in 1894, the Swiss association can look back on a highly successful history spanning more than 100 years. Over 60 professional mountain guides at the Zermatt Alpin Center have been relying on adidas outdoor products since spring 2011.

The ‘Lecco Spiders’ is the climbing club of the famous Grignetta Spiders Mountaineering Association in Italy. They can look back on a long list of international successes that stretches back more than 60 years.

They have among their ranks past heroes Cassin and Casimiro Ferrari, and current big names such as Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma. Over the years they have not only opened up numerous new routes but also been in the spotlight of international fame.

Concept and realisation bøa! agentur gmbh supported by Michael Meisl Photographer Michael Meisl Additional photographers Christian Pfanzelt, Hannes Mair, Toni Brey Text Florian Scheimpflug, Mike Mandl, Florian Glück, Eva Meschede, Toni Brey, Tine Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher Copywriting and English translation Giles Tilling / wordworks 3D graphics Mario Kaufmann / MKFX all data are subject to change and are provided without any guarantee. printing and layout errors excepted. all rights reserved. may not be copied. © 2012 adidas AG. adidas, the 3-Bars logo, and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.

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check out the online version on adidas.com/outdoor/magazine

PAGE

OUTDOOR APP

02

SCOTLAND ROUGH FEELS GOOD

06

TECHNOLOGy APPAREL

20

TURKEy ALL-INCLUSIVE

22

TECHNOLOGy FOOTWEAR

32

SPECIALS FOOTWEAR

36

VIA FERRATA LACHENSPITZE

38

UTAH INDIAN CREEK

42

BETTINA SULLINGER-PERREN

48

SNOW QUEENS VERWALL

52

ICE CLIMBING NORWAy

62

RAGNI DI LECCO PATAGONIA

72

THOMAS HUBER PATAGONIA

74

REINHOLD MESSNER PATAGONIA

75

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

78

COIRE AN LOCHAIN, SCOTLAND –– 01:53 PM Not for the faint-hear ted, as Charly

and Matthias find out braving the elements and the tough conditions. Despite having plenty of alpine experience, Scottish mixed climbing demands a little bit more from the Austrians.

Find out how they cope in the land of no bolts, questionable protection, rock covered in rime, and where snow, rain and hail come in horizontally.

GEyIKBAyIRI, TURKEy –– 02:34 PM Don’t worry; this isn’t a review of 5-star hotels

and guided city tours. This is a review of our four rock friends’ winter escape to a climbing camp where each climb is only one or two pitches in length, but offers enough to keep the toughest crux meisters busy for a week. Check out this all-inclusive itinerary to see why it adds up to more than a week of winter training.

INDIAN CREEK, UTAH, USA –– 01:27 PM Her debut crack climbing performance in 2009

was a failure; Gerda knows she has to go back to solve some overwhelming problems. After two years of intensive training she is ready to take on her foes again in Indian Creek. Gerda and Stefan talk us through the team’s crux highlights and all-in moments.

VERWALL VALLEy, AUSTRIA –– 10:20 AM Patteriol juts out in the middle of the mountain

range. Tine Huber has had her sights set on this peak for years. However, every time she asked, she only received answers that applied to climbing it during the snow-free months.

It must also be possible to ski this beautifullyshaped mountain with its jagged rock formations, she reckoned ...

HyDNEFOSSEN, NORWAy –– 03:45 PM Ten days visiting friends

in Trondheim with the aim of climbing as many metres of ice as possible. Due to changing weather conditions our intrepid adventurers have to move fast to seek out waterfalls with the right conditions.

Falling ice, mini-avalanches and freezing cold showers – sometimes ice climbing is best once it’s over. Guido’s climbing diary reveals all.

SCOTLAND

OOD G S L FEE H G U RO

When

rock with well-defined holds is as seldom as fixed bolts and fine weather, then it is not outwith the bounds of probability that you are climbing in Scotland.

Not for the faint-hearted. In fact it’s only for the brave, the very brave even, and perfect for Charly Fritzer and Matthias Wurzer.

Here’s their story.

COIRE AN LOCHAIN, SCOTLAND –– 02:17 PM

TEXT MIKE MANDL, FLO SCHEIMPFLUG PHOTOS MICHAEL MEISL

6 I7

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(IX/9) Pic ’n Mix

8 I9

Charly

carefully inserts his ice axe into a thin layer of hard snow, or rime, on the surface of the rock. Whether it is going to hold or not still has to be decided by the Scottish mountain goblins. What is certain is that the next trustworthy hold seems further away than the nearest whisky distillery. „Keep cool” thinks Charly. “Pfugelule,” as he would say in dialect back in Carinthia/Austria. And that is the name that will be given to the route that Charly is fighting his way up at the moment.

If you ever hear this name again, then that can only mean one thing: you have let yourself in for the adventure that is Scottish mixed climbing.

To understand the uniqueness of the Scottish attitude towards climbing, it is perhaps necessary to remind visitors of what is uniquely Scottish.

For novices, here are the top three. The bagpipes: an instrument as stirring as the sound that it spits out. The kilt: no other item of clothing manages to frame men’s legs so stunningly. The whisky: in Scotland they have known what to do with grain, apart from bake bread, since the 5th century.

Self-appointed Scotland experts will go on to add tossing the caber.

This is the Scottish national sport that quite simply involves throwing a tree trunk around – a kind of oversized pick-up sticks for the excessively strong.

After a day of tossing cabers, for your typical Scot there is nothing better than haggis, and then being struck by lightening to make him immortal.

In short, the national customs here are based on a long tradition, are creative and not lacking in extravagance.

And the same goes for mixed climbing.

(VIII/9) Pfugelule

In Scotland, climbing routes with alternating sections of rock and ice have a long tradition. Of course ice climbing equipment is used in numerous countries around the globe. But the term “Scottish mixed” has developed as a result of the extreme and inimitable conditions in Scotland. A daring, no-compromise style, regarded with awe whenever climbers of the frozen verticals gather together.

Listening to tales of awesome achievement can be entertaining, but it doesn’t get really exciting until you get to grips with it yourself.

And that was what Charly Fritzer and Matthias Wurzer intended to do as they set off from Austria to Scotland.

Winter climbing in Scotland is a serious business that has given many a novice its ice-cold shoulder, who can be grateful if they came away only lightly scathed. Matthias: “I watched a lot of Scottish climbing videos on YouTube. I felt really drawn to it, but at the same time felt fear at the prospect.” After all, it’s not often that foreign climbing teams venture into the Highlands to spend a holiday at the limit of their nerves, as the locals will tell you. There are more relaxing ways to spend your time.

However: “In Austria we are all familiar with innumerable waterfalls, our freezing testing grounds, and the weather conditions. That is why you simply have to experience something different. And that is where Scotland comes in,” says Matthias.

(VIII/9) Pfugelule

10 I11

Preparation

was not half the battle in this case, but at least gave them the edge. Before they set off Charly and Matthias put in some serious training sessions. But how can you prepare for such adverse conditions? Standing under a cold shower followed by chin-up sessions naked in a wind tunnel perhaps? No thanks sunshine.

“Plenty of training with ice axes, dry tools, mixed climbs and running up north faces – and whatever else you can manage,” seemed to make more sense, says Charly. The strategy worked: “The preparations really did me a lot of good.

Especially managing to keep up with Charly. That guy is truly ripped,” says Matthias.

Another important element you need to bring with you before committing to such extreme climbs without being able to train in advance: friendship and trust in your climbing partner. Should be no problem for these guys since they’ve been climbing together for almost fi ve years. Charly, 31, born in Carinthia/Austria but now living in Berchtesgaden/Germany, and Matthias, 29,a professional mountain guide from Kals in Tyrol/Austria, have become a team for whom no corner of the world is too wild.

One of their more recent travels took them to Patagonia – in a tie-break with Scotland for the worst weather worldwide – where they tested their resistance to the elements while climbing Cerro Torre, Exupery and Fitz Roy. Summing up their teamwork so far, “I’ve experienced some really wild things with Charly and we work really well together as a team. Of course we are both committed to completing our projects successfully.

However, fun and friendship are still the most important things,” says Matthias.

The Scottish Highlands aren’t particularly high: the highest mountain is Ben Nevis at 4,409 ft – which works out at just 1,344 metres – lowly by Alpine standards. But it’s the sheer expanse of the Highlands that makes the difference. As a rookie there’s an excellent chance you’ll get lost out in the sticks, covering more ground than strictly necessary to pinpoint perfect climbs. Charly and Matthias don’t intend to do that.

One string to their bow is that Charly visited Scotland last year to climb some more difficult routes with the Ice Queen, Ines Papert, including the extreme challenge of Bavarinthia (IX/9).

Plus, they made friends with two of the toughest aficionados of Scottish mixed climbing: the young and talented Will Sim and the dyed-in-the-wool Scottish mixed climber Greg Boswell who both know the most important climbing areas and the local conditions like the back of their hand. Greg lives most of the time in Scotland; Will in not un-icy Chamonix.

So two indulging in a shared passion soon became four.

Having spent some time together climbing all over the shop, Charly and Matthias soon started to understand the “principles“ of Scottish mixed climbing:

1 2

3 4 5 6 Will Sim & Greg Boswell

The weather is never bad, because it’s usually terrible.

Low pressure systems blowing in from the Atlantic hit Scotland first to demonstrate which meteorological pleasantries are on the menu.

It’s never really cold, but at near freezing temperatures you better be prepared for a merciless wind and pea-souper visibility.

But that hardly affects climbing because, as Will says: “We climb in that bad weather because it’s the only weather.”

Because the temperatures only just dip into minus figures, there is no ice but rime instead. Rime is a substance halfway between snow and ice, possessing properties of both without deciding firmly what it is going to be.

Rime is neither one nor the other. Rime, which is formed from damp air, is pressed onto the rock by the wind at high pressure to create imaginative shapes that look more promising than they actually turn out to be.

Climbers expecting a safe hold are destined to spend a great deal of time cussing and swearing. If you haven’t climbed rime, then by Scottish standards you haven’t done a winter climb. Which means you won’t have earned haggis for your tea.

Strength isn’t everything, in fact in these conditions it’s only a small part of the story. What you really need are strong nerves.

Without them you needn’t even start thinking about attempting Scottish mixed climbing. There are other ways of passing your time here. Tossing the caber, for example.

Whoever dares defy the Scottish ethic and drill a bolt, will be banned from climbing for life.

You need to be on first name terms with your rocks, friends and hexes.

The above principles are what the fascination of Scottish mixed climbing is all about.

Grading is also calculated slightly differently in Scotland than on the Continent or in Canada and the USA. While they denote routes featuring rock and ice with WI (for waterfall ice) and M (for mixed), in Scotland the grading system goes into more detail.

The Scottish mixed scale consists of a roman numeral to indicate the overall grade, followed by a second figure referring to the most difficult section of the climb. The scale goes up to grade XI, although this is a subject of controversy because it depends very much on the actual conditions. The overall grade is intended to give an idea of the physical demands of the climb as a result of the sparse protection that can be used. That’s why difficult routes are also extremely demanding physically.

Matthias: “It’s all about protection, or the lack of it. You start crapping yourself if you think too much about the last protection you set being way below you, and that it is probably not all that good. Friends simply don’t hold that well in iced-up cracks covered in rime. But when it’s behind you and you’ve pointed the climb, then you’ve all the more reason to be proud of yourself.

Your pint of Eighty Shilling tastes brilliant after that!”

12 I13

Matthias Wurzer

Charly Fritzer

CHAIN AN LO COIRE

EVIS BEN N

Cairngorms National Park 1

Coire an Lochain

Ben Nevis

2

3

CAVE RAVE

4 5 7

6

1

2

Approach Ben Nevis

(X/10) The Secret

(D 11+) Too fast and too furious

Drytooling Rave Cave

14 I15

So

climbing in Scotland requires a strong heart, strict rules and respect for the ethics. Off-putting for some, inviting for others, as proven by the impressive list of climbs notched up by Matthias and Charly.

During their seven-day tour they bagged a number of climbs in Cairngorms National Park on Coire an Lochain, among others, including Fall Out Corner (VI/7), Nocando Crack (VII/8) and Pic ’n Mix (IX/9), which for Matthias was “the best route there is where everything went to plan.” To top that, Charly conquered The Secret (X/10) on Ben Nevis. In his opinion he would have rated it grade VIII/9, which goes to show that a) even an outsider can develop a feel for Scottish climbing, and b) even non-Scots can excel at mixed.

In Scotland there is more to setting protection in rime; you also need to know your way around with classic drytool work. But only “if the conditions aren’t suitable for the mixed routes and you need to keep in shape,” says Charly.

What is meant by “unsuitable conditions” nobody really knows. What they probably mean is blue sky and blazing sunshine, because setting off with your ice axe on a high is deeply un-Scottish. Fine weather or not, the way Charly handles dry tools is pretty much perfect and as a result he was able to climb Too fast and too furious (D 11+), one of the toughest there is, at first attempt and flash Torchlite (D 11).

3

4

(VI/7) Fall Out Corner

(VII/8) Nocando Crack

6

5

(IX/9) Pic ’n Mix

7

(VIII/9) Pfugelule

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(VIII/9) Pfugelule

STYLE COTS ENT S C R E 100 P

Souvenirs:

Charly and Matthias have brought back a number of souvenirs in the form of cool routes that they will remember for a long time. But what about the friendly Scots?

As you would expect from visiting climbers, Matthias and Charly left behind something that their hosts can look forward to whenever the rime hugs the rock face: Pfugelule (VIII/9) is its name. If you want to climb Pfugelule, you should at least attempt to understand what the name means. In Charly’s dialect back home in Carinthia/Austria, Pfugelule means something like: “Take it easy and keep your cool.“ Looking back, the question that they were asking themselves was whether winter mixed climbing really is as difficult as everybody says, and do you need to take out life insurance and sign a will before you get started? Do you really have to be as immortal as a Highlander to climb and descend these routes unscathed?

Matthias says: “You don’t need to believe all the rumours; the Scots don’t wear kilts while they are climbing either. There are routes of all grades. It’s just that many climbs are well off the beaten track. You’ve got to make sure nothing goes wrong, even on an easy climb!” And if you dare tackle some of the more serious routes in Scotland, it’s not just strong nerves you need, but also a realistic assessment of your own capabilities. Charly adds: “You certainly need experience climbing with the right kind of protection as well as extensive winter alpine climbing skills.”

As with any challenging route, the question you’ve got to ask yourself is what kind of potential risk are you prepared to take on board to successfully complete the climb.

As Charly says: “A route is not just awesome because it is difficult, but the grade of difficulty certainly has its attraction. On reflection, all the routes we climbed were beautiful, regardless of how difficult they were.” Matthias adds: “The surroundings, the landscape and the whole way of life are really impressive up there.”

It

doesn’t have to be challenging mixed climbing in Scotland, but one thing is for sure: if it performs in Scotland, then it’ll do its job in Austria too.

Easily and without batting an eyelid. Because the weather and challenges are on average easier to endure anywhere other than the windiest rock on the windiest route in the windiest corner of the Highlands.

Snow, hail, rain, rain-hail and hail-rain: it all comes at you horizontally. Meteorological conditions of the most disagreeable kind that make leaving the house seem like setting off on a major expedition. If you want to go climbing in such conditions as well, you are going to need material that does what it promises. During their journeys to the limits of feasibility, Charly Fritzer and Matthias Wurzer relied on the extremely light yet tough terrex™ icefeather jacket (#W37286) featuring breathable 3-Layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell. That’s because on Scottish routes and challenging tours this waterproof and wind-tight jacket comes into a class of its own. It wants to get moving, that’s what it’s made for, designed using FORMOTION™ technology, which means that the icefeather jacket intuitively does what you do: there are no bulges when crouching or belaying and no exposed arms when you need to reach further than humanly possible for the next usable hold. The helmet-compatible hood moves with the same ease and freedom. “Body-hugging” is the only term for this innovative combination of cut and material. Neither Charly nor Matthias have a clue how that works. But they can take an oath on their crampons that it does. The optimum match is the terrex™ icefeather pants (#W37830), which shares not only the name but also the functionality of the jacket. And while we are on the subject of legs, what is really worn under the kilt nobody knows. What we do know is that while they were in Scotland Charly and Matthias wore the terrex™ 1/2 zip longsleeve (#W45587) under their icefeather jackets. Because it keeps you warm, because thanks to FORMOTION™ it moves freely, and because it works intuitively: some parts of the body tend to overheat while others feel the cold. The BODY MAPPED HYBRID CONSTRUCTION takes these differences into consideration, letting heat escape where it has built up and keeping zones warm that would otherwise get cold.

Matthias Wurzer

Charly Fritzer

CHO I ETE S ATHL

CE

Terrex IceFeather Jacket

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Knit Logo Beanie

Beanie Striped

Terrex Hooded Light Down Jacket

And because you also want to keep warm while you aren’t climbing, there is the ultra-light terrex™ hooded light down jacket (#W37665). This jacket’s looks are at least as good as its functionality. And vice versa. It’s stowability, ruggedness and stylish looks make this down jacket a must-have, not just in Scotland and not just in the mountains. Although, of course, it’s fully climbing-compatible because FORMOTION™ is also inside.

Terrex 1/2 Zip Longsleeve

HB 35

And the fact that the hb 35 backpack (#V86966) is precisely as practical as the bagpipes are loud, is now well-known beyond the Highlands.

This highly capable talent for organisation provides ultimate support on tours involving rocks and ice. Anything we forgot to mention?

Oh yes, the knit logo and striped beanie, which keep your ears warm thanks to their fleece lining. Just in case you get caught in one of those horizontal snow flurries.

Terrex IceFeather Pants

TECHNOLOGY APPAREL

As the name terrex™ icefeather implies, for winter the adidas apparel experts combine lightweight with ruggedness. Thanks to the use of proven 3L GORE-TEX® Pro Shell, the icefeather jacket offers reliable weather protection in harsh conditions: snow, ice and storms.

The advanced FORMOTION™ cut with adjustments in the front section guarantees unique freedom of movement and a perfect armlift. The jacket retains its body-hugging shape without riding upwards.

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adidas.com/outdoor

01/ STORM HOOD fully adjustable & helmet compatible

02/ REFLECTIVE PRINTS for enhanced visibility & safety in the outdoors

03/ GORE-TEX® 3-Layer GORE-TEX® Pro Shell membrane reliable weather protection in harsh conditions

04/ CHEST POCKETS 2 waterproof chest pockets

05/ Reduced bulging through a body-hugging shape that retains fit even during climbing and other outdoor activities with a big range of movement. FORMOTION™ enables you to perform with perfect comfort and freedom of movement.

06/ FULL ZIP 2-way waterproof center zip with stand-up collar & pull tab cover

07/ SIDE VENTILATION for individual climate control

08/ ZIP POCKETS 2 hand pockets with mesh inserts for airflow

09/ SNOW GUARD removable & compatible via loops with the terrex™ icefeather pants

TURKEY

TEXT FLORIAN GLÜCK PHOTOS CHRISTIAN PFANZELT Lulu is pleased to be “Back on funky planet” (7b+).

GEyIKBAyIRI, TURKEy 03:19 PM

22 I23

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hiaS

cOcO

1 Week all- inclUSiVe!

marTina

TUrkey

DOn’T WOrry.

This isn’t about guided city tours and 5-star hotel residents wearing elastic bands on their wrists. This is about the winter escapades of four rock friends. Away from the freezing cold winter in Europe and particulate pollution in German climbing gyms. Away to soft sunlight, steep sinters and the knowledge that in Antalya there is everything to content a climber’s heart – and then some.

lUlU

“WOW!” he ThinkS. “ThiS iS gOnna be WickeD!” His fi ngers tie into a knot. The knuckles clench getting whiter and whiter, like his face. His stare, almost obsessed, to the left, then to the right. No help, no escape – all he can come out with is a timid “Lulu ...?” to his climbing partner. What happens next is something Hias had never experienced before. There’s a bang, a roar, everything shakes. Deafening noise, jet engine loud, then a jolt and the belt suddenly tightens across his stomach. At last he has reached the ground. Along with 174 other passengers.

Istanbul Ankara

GEYIKBAYIRI

TURKEY

Hias didn’t expect landing in Antalya in a 737 was going to be the greatest psychological challenge he had experienced in his life so far. He is not a frequent flyer, at least not in aeroplanes. And with his normally cool, relaxed disposition he is convinced that a charter fl ight pilot would have no problem putting the plane down safely. But then he had never had to worry about turbulence, crosswinds and similar aerodynamic phenomena.

Antalya

One seat away and clearly relaxed, Lulu takes off her massive headphones.

Noise reducing, of course. “Did I miss something?” asks the 18-year-old student cheekily. It takes at least another three seconds before she gives him an ironic grin. The Boeing rolls towards the gate.

24 I25

SO EXCLUSIVE geyikbayiri – climbing & chilling An hour’s car drive and a dozen headstrong customs officials later – “How do you say ‘exe’ in Turkish? He doesn’t know what this is ...!” – Martina, Lulu, Coco and Hias are sitting under an oriental moon sipping their first winter escape beer. A crescent moon in the night-blue sky above them.

Facing its open side there is a lone illuminating star. Obvious! We are in Turkey! The four winter escapees are ensconced in a landscape that is a cross between a spaghetti western film set and the Greek climbing mecca Kalymnos. With the two central, several hundred metres long rock outcrops of Geyikbayiri centre-stage, all four look past the rocks into the never-ending emptiness.

“Wow,” says Christoph – aka Coco – deep in thought. He grew up in the mountains and currently works as a professional mountain guide, among other things, and in his mid-thirties has already got to know a few impressive climbing areas. But the mood of the moment and the flashback to the turbulent landing bring out the emotion. “Totally,” agrees Martina as she cuddles up to him. Coco and the 28-year-old education professional have been a team for two years, both on the mountain and in the valley.

“I reckon we’ll find plenty to do over the next few days.”

Lulu completes another cool sinter. Being there is everything on “Olympos Games” (8b).

“nOT all 7a’S here are like ThiS!” A student powers up the rock Lulu on “High Voltage” (7c+).

A party for steep sinter fans – Lulu is delighted to be “Back on funky planet” (7b+).

geyikbayiri

TOngUe TWiSTer anD FOrearm PUmPer

26 I27

Hias power-climbs “High Voltage” (7c+).

“Poker Face” is the name of Lulu’s first warm-up climb in the Sarkit Left sector. In keeping with the name of the route, the youngest in the team manages the 22 pretty steep metres without missing a beat. “Not all 7a’s here are like this,” she shouts down after the crux to Hias, who belays virtually in awe. “This is one of the tough ones.” Lulu was here over New Year – student, need we say more – and has almost a photographic recall when it comes to most of the routes and their moves.

“I can’t believe it, at home it’s minus ten degrees,” shouts Hias back, putting on his chilled grin, which remains firmly planted on his face for most of the next seven days.

While the four in winter exile get used to spring temperatures, threedimensional climbing on sinters, pillars and other limestone creations, here to the southwest of Antalya begins a perfectly normal blue-sky day.

With loud, guttural shouts a goatherd keeps his flock together. The goats look very much at home on the short access terrain below the rock face.

Woe betide the climber who leaves an energy bar or anything else edible unattended for too long at the foot of the rock.

‘Get on top’ thinks Hias on “Red Hot Chili Peppers” (7a).

“Coco, where is that banana then?” Martina asks her friend next morning. “Don’t know, look for yourself!” he retorts. After all Christoph has got other things on his mind right now. The key sequence on “Geyikbayiri Games” (7b+) happens to be building up the lactate in his forearms. And the professional construction engineer wants to do it on sight without having to draw it first.

Hias has wished the same a short time later by Lulu. She had unceremoniously raised the bar pretty high on the second “warm-up” day by finishing off a 7c+. “White Spirit” is the name of this 35-m challenge. Hias, who in recent months has only been solving this kind of difficulty level at his local climbing wall in Kochel/Germany, could already tell the difference between Antalyan and Upper Bavarian limestone structures. “Just pull on the sinter till it’s at shoulder level, yo, a bit further, now on the right, then cross over, now a snap and bring your feet up, more, no, more to the left, etc, etc.” Lulu’s commands peter out. Hias falls. A single “Sh... ame!” is all he has to say as his weight comes on to the rope. And while he is looking down at Lulu so that her photographic memory can go through the sequence again, his attention gradually drifts away from the rock face.

“Look at that goat!” he calls into the valley. Everybody turns to look. They all grin. And Martina knows that she can finally write off the banana. Munching and surprisingly adept at processing the banana skin, the straggly thief trots off behind the rest of the herd, turning briefly to bleat at everybody with an unmistakable “Baaaa!” to bid farewell in the soft morning sun.

Later, during a short break for a snack in the pleasant shade, Hias massages his forearms as he tells of his past in general – and of the greediness of animals in herds in particular. “I’m actually a fish farmer by trade. But the profession is dying out at home on Lake Ammersee. So then I thought that being a shepherd would be pretty cool.”

Coco plays “Geyikbayiri Games” (7b+).

With everybody grinning broadly the ex-shepherd adds: “Except you don’t get to do much climbing, which is why I now prefer to look after people.” As he said this he pulls Lulu gently by the plait towards the Sarkit Right sector.

He liked the look of the oversized slab at the start of “Olympos Games” (8b) and wanted to go “try it out”.

1 Week

all-in(clUSiVe)!

Not feeling sabotaged Martina manages “Sabotaj” (7b+).

Coco doesn’t need warp drive for “Beam me up Scotty” (7c).

28 I29

Magnesium instead of stardust – Coco claims “Beam me up Scotty” (7c).

Two south-facing sunny days later the four climbing partners are looking forward to Tobi’s idea of showing them the area from a different perspective. It is Sunday, and Sunday is market day in Geyik. The joint owner of the JoSiTo climbing camp drives all four about fi ve kilometres down the main road towards Antalya, throwing them out of his 4WD to park in the shade. Nearly ten years ago three Germans – Jost, Siri and Tobias – started setting up a place for climbers at the foot of the lower rock formation. Today, JoSiTo offers sufficient room for a glorious bunch of climbing freaks from all over the map, who can stay here in tents, bungalows and small cedar huts.

Down here it is at least as colourful as all the climbing nomads back at the camp. Curious wind-blown wooden stalls form an avenue on either side of the main road, forcing car drivers to slow down to 20 kph. How inviting is the aroma of freshly browned almonds, fresh gözleme – thin Turkish pastries – and an indefinable mixture of herbal tea and shisha smoke. The boys head straight for the tea tent, while the girls – no surprises here then – go shopping. At every third stall in the market they sell these incredibly stylish cotton baggy pants, worn by generations of Turkish farming women well over 30 and decorated with floral patterns, reminiscent of Woodstock, Peace, Love & Harmony, even without the enjoyment of shisha. Not quite so harmonious ten minutes later was a market stall owner when Lulu tried on the fourth pair of these pants – on top of each other. The girls squealed with delight while the boys chewed walnuts and slurped freshly pressed orange juice – this is Turkey all-inclusive.

in The climbing camP

anD aT The markeT

FUll OF cOlOUr

Sunshine like out of a power socket – Lulu once more on “High Voltage” (7c+).

Martina fi xes the first moves on “Caf Caf” (6c).

Coco, still the ski guide, is delighted for another reason. “Hey Tobi,” he says, turning to the resident German and then looking over his shoulder to the west. “Those summits over there look so white they must be skiable, right?”

“Absolutely,” grins Tobi back. “And they’re really not bad. The forest road above the camp takes you directly to Saklikent, the valley station of the Antalya ski area. Okay, it’s no comparison with Gulmarg, but freeriding in the morning, a couple of touring routes in the afternoon and then a quick dip in the sea before the sundowner; there aren’t many places you can do that on this planet. If you are feeling really fit, then you can even leave the car behind and do the whole thing on your mountain bike,” he adds with more than a trace of pride in his voice.

On the way back to the camp Tobi explains that the summits on Saklikent reach nearly 2,600 m in the almost permanently blue sky and that he regularly takes his touring skis out for a spin up there between December and the beginning of April. “We haven’t brought our skis with us,” says Coco a little disappointed, “but what do you think of the sundowner idea?”

That had to wait for another day. Monday starts with many new visitors to the camp – and for our four climbing friends that means a new sector.

Klaas, an all-around-the-world climber from Belgium recommends “Güzel Manzara”. “Nice warm-ups and some demanding 2nd-pitch crags!” he grins in the morning sun. 15 minutes later on the rock, Hias – whose English is not the most fluent – understands what Klaas means. “Nice, a 6c to warm up and then a steep 7c+ on the 2nd pitch!” was his comment.

And Lulu added: “Yes, and plenty of quiet before the new arrivals!”

What happens next is not really what you could call alpine because it doesn’t get any further than the 2nd pitch. But with at least 50 m of air under the soles of your feet and another 4 m above the last bolt, even a climber used to 10er climbs has to invest a bit of effort and concentration to finish the last few moves. “High Voltage” is the name of the climb and because it is also new terrain for Lulu, she and her partner spend the next two hours generating enough electricity to climb this pitch with its fantastic views without falling.

“anD aT hOme They’Ve gOT minUS 10 DegreeS again.”

Martina visits “Käpt’n Kirk” (6c+).

Hias under the roof of “High Voltage” (7c+).

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TUrkey 1 Week all-inclUSiVe!

After such effort they happily recollect the idea from yesterday and just 50 kilometres later all four really are paddling in the Mediterranean Sea – in mid-February. However, when it comes to the subject of temperatures of liquids they seem to give preference to Turkish beer and after a relaxed drive back to the camp they have a quick shower and then find themselves with the first barley ale of the evening in the company of climbers from Turkey, Norway, the Czech Republic, Switzerland, Poland and Germany in the JoSiTo lounge.

The iPod plays chilled island tunes and despite having free WLAN access there are surprisingly few people sitting around with notebooks.

The faces and stories of the people around the large tables are simply too interesting. “That’s great that communication here is still at an analogue level,” says Martina, the teacher. Hias takes a sip of beer, grins and says: “And at home they’ve got minus ten degrees again.”

TECHNOLOGY FOOTWEAR

If you are looking for speed in the mountains, you need a lightweight hiking boot that guarantees flexibility, stability and reliability.

Perfect terrain for the terrex™ fast r, which despite its low weight enables controlled approaches and descents at highest possible speed. The TRAXION™ sole with CONTINENTAL® rubber compound and technically advanced profile delivers the necessary grip. An enhanced level of reliability at high speeds is also supported by advanced three-dimensional FORMOTION™ technology in the heel zone. The waterproof and extremely breathable GORE-TEX® membrane keeps your feet dry in all weather conditions.

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01/ TRAXION™ special structure of outsole provides the best grip during fast activities

02/ for extraordinary grip in wet and dry conditions

03/ PROTECTION PLATE special impact plate is incorporated for protection from hazards such as sharp rocks

04/ EVA TONGUE TOP for enhanced fit and comfort

05/ SPEED LACING for fast and snug lacing

06/ GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort Membrane: waterproof and breathable, ideal for higher activity levels

07/ HEEL CAP external heel cap for enhanced stability

08/ ADIPRENE® + in the forefoot maintains propulsion and efficiency

09/ adidas cutting edge technology provides controlled descents, reduces heel-to-toe velocity and equalizes uneven ground

TECHNOLOGY FOOTWEAR

TRAXION™ It’s the combination of profile and rubber compound that makes for perfect grip. The signature of the TRAXION™ sole is its ingenious mix of stud shape, stud configuration and CONTINENTAL® rubber compound with excellent grip properties. Guaranteed non-slip control on every surface, no matter whether it’s loose or smooth, wet or dry.

01/ L-SHAPE

02

On loose ground the L-shaped studs interlock with stones and scree. That ensures positive drive to the ground without loss of power on the ascent. The crossshaped grooves on the studs displace water to increase the area of contact in the wet.

02/ CONFIGURATION

01

The angle at which the studs are placed in relation to each other promotes natural heel-to-toe roll. Pure control is provided by the narrower interfacing L-shaped studs on the inside of the foot. That’s because the greatest pressure is generated by the big toe.

03/ CONTINENTAL

03

®

Up to 30% more grip on dry and wet surfaces than comparable models of boot on the market thanks to the CONTINENTAL® rubber compound. Due to its high friction coefficient, the small contact area of the L-shaped studs is sufficient to create plenty of grip on dry and wet ground. That’s what makes the open and self-cleaning profile of the TRAXION™ sole possible.

04/ HEEL CONFIGURATION For maximum safety downhill, the L-shaped profiles on the heel are facing the other way. They have a powerful compression effect on loose ground and enhance braking force on the descent. Deep profile grooves in this zone of the sole amplify braking effect.

05/ FORMOTION™ Technology that protects the joints for a comfortable downhill ride thanks to two overlapping plates that slide forwards, back and to the side depending on ground conditions and the angle of contact. The way the FORMOTION™ unit equalises rough terrain reduces heel-to-toe velocity while minimizing stress on the knee and ankle.

04

05

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SPECIALS FOOTWEAR

DID yOU

KNOW

THAT ...

ADI DASSLER’S HIKING BOOTS

1934 ... adidas FOUNDER ADI DASSLER AND HIS WIFE K ÄTHE HAD A PASSION FOR HIKING IN THE MOUNTAINS? A COBBLER By TRADE, HE WAS AN ENTHUSIASTIC ATHLETE WHO BACK IN 1934 DEVELOPED ORIGINAL HIKING BOOTS DESIGNED SPECIFICALLy FOR HIGH-ALTITUDE MOUNTAINEERING, TAILOR-MADE IN THE DA SSLER WORK SHOP IN HERZOGENAURACH.

He selected water-repellent full-grain cow leather for the shaft and soft calf leather for the lining.

The insole, all outer sole components and the welt were made from organic-tanned sole leather. Both models available featured integrated crampons in the form of hand-forged iron fixtures produced by a local craftsman. Dassler chose a variety of solutions.

KÄTHE DASSLER’S HIKING BOOTS

The sole of his own model of boot was equipped with special forged nails with serrated iron grips that clamped to the outer rim of the sole. Käthe’s boot had crampons that reached from the edge of the sole up to the ankle. A horseshoe with sharp points was nailed onto the heel of both models of boot.

The made-to-order Dassler mountain boot with integrated crampons weighed 933 grams in size 7 ½ (UK). The ladies model with an unusually narrow last weighed 660 grams in size 4 ½ (UK).

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SPLASH – STRAIGHT INTO MUDDy PUDDLES!

Terrex Mid GTX K

Parents know the magical attraction of puddles and mud, especially in autumn when they crop up at regular intervals on mountain paths and none can be left out, no matter how small. So that kids’ feet still remain dry, the adidas outdoor boot experts have fitted a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort membrane to the athletic terrex™ GTX K mid and low children’s hiking boot series. Good breathability and excellent moisture management also protect against overheating. So there will be no complaints about sweaty feet, even when kids climb their first mountain and are on the go all day. These very light hiking boots provide the ankle and mid-foot with firm support and guidance. Plus, the TRAXION™ outsole ensures good grip and control in various ground conditions. The reflective three stripes and logo make kids easily visible from every side. This safety feature is especially important because many children want to use their outdoor boots every day.

TERREX SOFT SHELL MID

2012

Powder snow underfoot and white summits against a deep blue sky – a winter mountain world that is experienced even more intensively away from the groomed trails. That’s why outdoor athletes are now looking for their challenge on touring skis and snowshoes to drive their heart rate skywards. The athletic terrex™ softshell mid is the ideal boot for snowshoeing, and can be used for other mountain sport activities too. As a winter hiker it has an optimum heel shape for securing snowshoes.

The breathable and water-repellent Soft Shell material provides a really pleasant climate. In combination with PrimaLoft® insulation, snowshoe users have warm and dry feet even in freezing cold conditions. Its purist design catches the eye, but has functional purposes as well. The developers have deliberately done away with as many seams as possible. That’s because every seam is a weak point that either lets in the cold or the wet. The few essential seams that are left are therefore taped.

The tongue is also designed so that no snow can enter. A laser-cut Velcro fastening holds the shaft closed tidily while protecting the quick-lacing system.

TyROL, AUSTRIA –– 12:26 AM

via ferrata

VIA FERRATA

via ferrata

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TEXT + PHOTOS TONI BREY

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lachen spitze The mountains surrounding the Vilsalpsee lake in Tyrol/Austria are ideal for hiking and mountaineering, which is why it has become such a highly popular area.

The Neunerköpfle cable car in Tannheim offers a comfortable ascent for anybody who wants to walk the jubiläumsweg or simply escape the fog hanging over the valley and enjoy a day in the sunshine. That is why in late summer there are so many people up on the mountain that it often feels the same as on the motorway on a public holiday. It is already late autumn, there seems to be no end to the Indian summer in sight, and so we decided to go on a mountain tour in Tannheim Valley. Our destination: the via ferrata on the north face of the Lachenspitze.

The masses have gone now that the cable cars and mountain huts are closed for the winter; this has to be the best time to do this climb. While in summer you can easily manage this tour without being under time pressure, we have the handicap of few hours of daylight. However, as a reward we have the soft light, long shadows and complete solitude. The tour is described as 6–7 hours, which is the same as the amount of daylight that we will have available on this particular day and is the reason why in addition to our via ferrata set, picnic and first aid kit, our backpacks also contain a headlamp.

It is just after nine o’clock as we leave the car park at Vilsalpsee lake and the first rays of sunlight strike the southern slopes of Rauhorn and Gaishorn. Down here it is icy cold above the lake and our route leads us away from the light into the shadow. The squeaking frost under our boots marks out the pace. As the seasons change it is extremely important to have the right clothing with you and your footwear has to be suitable for varying conditions too. After almost one and a half hours we reach Traualpsee lake. Emerging from the shadows from one step to the next we enter the sunlight and let our cold faces thaw out.

via ferrata lachenspitze In recent years climbing via ferrate has become more and more fashionable. This is partly due to new routes being opened, including the via ferrata on the north face of the Lachenspitze.

The route was opened in 2009 and soon became highly popular as a method of ascending the north face and getting a feel for climbing.

The 430-m-long tour features a difference in elevation of 265 m and is rated with a medium grade of difficulty on the 6-grade scale.

Exposed sections on parts of the tour combined with breathtaking scenery are what makes this climb so attractive. All in all, it is a tour that is easily managed by experienced mountaineers.

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• • •

• •

The via ferrata starts approx 15 minutes away from the Landsberg hut (1810 m) Right next to it you can try out some test stretches of via ferrata in preparation for the real thing Grade of difficulty C, in parts D on the scale of A–E, or grade 3 of the 6-grade scale Length: 430 m Difference in elevation: 265 m Several exposed sections; no emergency exit Climbing time: approx two hours The descent on the south side takes approx 30–50 minutes along the standard route back to the Landsberg hut

Although we are in Tyrol/Austria, this mountain range is an extension of the German Allgäu Alps.

The grass covered slopes are typical for this area, shimmering in the autumn sun with the emeraldcoloured Traualpsee Lake set in the middle. Then we catch sight of the Landsberg hut for the first time with the north face of the Lachenspitze in the shadows in the background. After another 45 minutes we arrive at the hut, which is closed for the winter and only offers emergency shelter in the winter room. Since it is approaching noon, what could be better than taking a short break? Catch some more rays and a quick bite to eat before we head off into the shadows again.

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VIA FERRATA ASCENT/DESCENT LACHENSPITZE LANDSBERG HUT

LACHE TRAUALPSEE

VILSALPSEE AUSTRIA Lachenspitze

Replenished after our break we make our way up towards the dark north face. The Lache, a small tarn below the Landsberg hut at the foot of the Lachenspitze, is iced over. As soon as we cross the line of shadow we can feel the temperature drop 10 degrees.

After a quarter of an hour we are almost at the start of the via ferrata. We don our climbing equipment and our helmets and get started straightaway to keep moving and avoid getting cold.

The first few difficult metres foreshadow the tricky sections later on. Then, after the first 30 metres, we reach easier terrain and make some rapid headway. Following the easy part we then cross a steep section before reaching the rock face.

Halfway up we enter a chimney. In order to cross over to the other side the via ferrata passes over a block wedged into the chimney; a huge chunk of rock that has fallen from above and has become wedged into the crevice. From here onwards the climb is more difficult again. After almost two hours we reach the summit; the view is marvellous.

To the north the foothills of the Bavarian Alps, to the east the Ammergau mountains, heading round to the south the Wetterstein massif with the Zugspitze, and the peaks of the Karwendel Range reaching upwards in between. Right in front of us is the Mieming, Lech valley and Hornbach Range with the Hochvogel in the west.

Time just fl ies by, the shadows are getting longer and the sun’s rays begin to lose their warmth. We stow our climbing kit into our backpacks and enjoy the last of the daylight as we start our descent. The sun has already gone down before we reach the saddle below Steinkarspitze and after another 30 minutes we are walking in pitch-black. Good that we brought our headlamps with us. As we arrive back at Vilsalpsee lake we turn to look back up towards Lachenspitze, but it is hidden in the night.

INDIAN CREEK, UTAH, USA –– 12:26 AM

INDIANCREEK AFFAIR

text + phOTOs athletes

JAMMING UTAH

LOVE

Their destination: Indian Creek, at the gateway to Canyonlands National Park. Aka the crack climbing capital of the world! On arrival the four climbers drove slowly past the rock faces in Indian Creek Canyon. The adventure can begin:

Doing what you do well having fun while doing it is a winning combination: that’s the motto of Gerda Raffetseder, a successful climber and first ascentionist. Sometimes that doesn’t work on demand, like climbing cracks in the USA. On her first attempt in 2009 she failed miserably on the cracks in Utah. Of fun there was no trace; winning wasn’t even in the running. That had to change: more than two years later she went back again to prove to the climbing routes on the other side of the pond what she is capable of. As well as Stefan Brunner, who had accompanied Gerda on the first tour, this time climbers Felix Denkmayr and Stefan Lengauer (Steff) were on board.

They packed no fewer than 119 SLCDs (spring-loaded camming devices), or friends; three kitbags, a huge suitcase and a haul bag were checked in at Munich/Germany for the flight to Las Vegas/USA. With a rented minivan they immediately drove from Vegas to Utah.

Gerda’s story: “What’s up with Stefan? Is he suffering from jet lag? Hasn’t he got any motivation? Surely he doesn’t need to pull himself up using the cam on this easy warm-up route?” That’s what I was thinking as I got ready to follow him. Right after the first couple of moves I had to admit that I wasn’t feeling quite right either. What a difficult route! I was struggling.

Battling against the 5.10-Goliath. And I only manage to get to the top using the rope. What a failure.

Those are my memories, bad memories, of my first trip to Utah. “Pride goes before a fall,” I thought after making acquaintance with fist cracks followed by an off-width for the first time. Off-width is somewhere between fistsized crack and body-sized crack. The 2009 trip ended in failure, frustration, burnout, physically as well as psychically. But I had discovered a new challenge – merciless vertical cracks! So far they had finished me off, but sometime soon it’ll be the other way round, I decided.

Stefan – “Generic Crack” (5.10-)

Now there is a new opportunity to finish off the cracks.

I am ready for it, prepared for the next climbing adventure in Utah, this time with my sights set on Indian Creek.

Stefan – “The Big Baby” (5.11)

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Gerda – “Unnamed” (5.11-)

North Six Shooter Peak

I am the only woman in the team and have to get used to working out my own solutions; none of the guys has hands as small as mine. This time I know what to expect and have been able to train on a range of granite cracks at home and in Italy. First we have to check in at the Super Bowl Campground. This is a barren campsite where there is neither running water nor any kind of comfort. Only a latrine protected the desert from unnecessary contamination. By chance there was also a table and two benches. Pure luxury – good for the back.

The weather is perfect, almost too hot, but as soon as we’ve set up the tents we get cracking on cracking. I start off cautiously this time with a 5.9. And on the first day manage to build up to 5.10 on-sight. That’s a much better start than 2009. Now I’m optimistic and motivated.

The weather gets cooler after the second day of climbing so we move to the south-facing walls.

The boys don’t miss a beat and knock off one crack after the other. Super Crack, Scarface, Battle of the Bulge, Quarter of a Man, Generic Crack, and Incredible Hand Crack – the classics.

Stefan has been mulling over a difficult project since 2009 and decides right now to attempt Ruby’s Cafe (5.13-).

I suddenly realise that there are lots of women climbing here. Strong women. I enjoy watching them climb. I like the way they work their way up gracefully, in no way overshadowed by the men.

We are able to watch how Steph Davis checks out a route. That gives me and my motivation a boost and impresses the men too. Steff quickly develops into an off-width specialist.

Climbing Binge and Purge (5.11) his whole body is swallowed up by the rock in places. Later on in the day Felix also finds a project. The perfect hand crack Think Pink (5.11-).

But because it was getting dark he was unable to complete the climb. His dreams are pre-programmed for tonight, however.

From our tent on the Super Bowl Campground we can see North Six Shooter Peak. A formation of different-height battlements linked together.

We have to get up there; these imposing rock needles have a magical attraction. We start out on a sunny day and after a three-hour march across the desert at last arrive at the start of the climb to enjoy the four-pitch Lightning Bolt Crack (5.11-) in the sunshine.

“Think Pink – absolutely my favourite route! I had already watched a video back home about an attempt at this line and thought to myself: I really have to climb this awesome perfect hand crack.“ Felix

Steff – “Battle of the Bulge” (5.11)

Stefan – “Cat Paw” (5.11)

“Big Baby (5.11) – an off-width classic. You gradually shift your way up centimetre by centimetre.

After an hour’s battle I reach the top completely wreaked, but happy.“ Steff

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UTAH While we feared that we would have to bivouac on North Six Shooter Peak, in fact we manage to make it back to the tent before sundown. After a short break and a beer there is a tasty veggie rice fry-up and salad. Then we sit right up close to the campfire to keep warm.

Gerda – “Power Paws” (5.11)

Despite wearing down jackets it is pretty cold and the windshield on our van is iced over! The couple from the neighbouring tent see our campfire and come over to offer us tea with whiskey. In order to contribute something Steff starts baking bread over the campfire. We have brought a pack of yeast from home especially. The bakery demonstration provides great entertainment for the whole group. When the bread is at last ready, we all grab a slice hungrily.

Tastes excellent! And is soon finished. This will surely give us extra strength for our climbing tomorrow.

My motivation goes up and up. Finally I am standing in front of my project from last time: Fingers in a Light Socket (5.11+). Okay, I think to myself, eyes shut and get on with it. I know that the crux is waiting for me right at the top. I layback up the finger crack, slowly and full of concentration. Maybe slightly too slowly since I arrive at the crux with throbbing forearms. Don’t let go, don’t let go, I chant to myself. And I’ve done it; I’m at the turnback without having taken a rest. Finally I’ve gained the confidence that I too can climb cracks.

Our time on the campsite is quiet and relaxed. In the evening we often bake bread and in the morning there is a varied power breakfast. The guys are really motivated in campfire cooking. I enjoy being catered for and watching them wash up. To shop and meet people we drive to Moab, about an hour’s drive away. There we chill in the Red Rocks Bakery, surf the internet and hang out in the climbing stores. But in actual fact we don’t want to take rest days. “The flight was too expensive for that!” jokes Stefan. And we also need to make the most of our time because the days are getting colder. One morning we even build a snowman!

Stefan and I go to Battle Massif again. He’s already had chunks taken out of his fingers, but he has to have another bash at Ruby’s Cafe – it just won’t leave him in peace. And then a scream of jubilation echoes through the valley.

Stefan’s story: The Masterpiece A quick flick through the climbing guide: “Masterpiece”, “amazing roof” it says. Yes! I get started. Relaxed I climb to the difficult point. The route is still in the shade and there is a pleasant, cool breeze. Just before the crux I position a friend in the crack. Maybe the cam is a bit too small for this big crack? I continue to climb resolutely onwards. The crux is behind me, my forearms are completely swimming in lactate and it’s time for me to place the next cam. I try to release a hand to unclip a cam from my harness, but my strength is dwindling.

Quickly I reach into the crack again to avoid falling.

Catch my breath. Next attempt. In the very same moment my foot slips away. I fall. I fall past the friend that I reckoned might be too small for the crack. My sweat runs cold with fear. Am I going to hit the deck?

It holds! The friend holds. I’m hanging about 3 m below it, completely exhausted, empty. After a rest I pull myself up and complete the climb. That is good training for completing the climb on day X. My day has arrived. The sun has slipped behind the dark clouds. A heavy rain shower is approaching us at high speed. The wind is blowing strong and is bitterly cold.

I get started. The rock is cold. The friction is a great deal better than on all my previous attempts.

Completely relaxed I climb past the crux. All that remains is the pumping exit over the roof. It has started raining. That doesn’t bother me because the wall is steep enough to remain dry. I climb up to the anchors.

“Click” goes the karabiner into the stand. The best sound there is, the second best: my loud victory call.

I just can’t believe it! Another awesome route to add to the list: Ruby’s Cafe (5.13-), finger crack.

Stefan – “Scarface” (5.11)

Steff – “Fingers in a Lightsocket” (5.11+)

While the two Stefans are still solving a whole load of difficult cracks, Felix and I enjoy some cool tours in the sun. It’s unbelievable: crack climbing is really fun! I certainly didn’t think that in 2009. Even by the end of our visit we are still hungry, hungry for cracks. At the last minute Felix sends his Think Pink project.

For me the final highlight is Battle of the Bulge (5.11), an endurance climb that pushes my muscles to their limit. In 2009 I was still light years away from this route.

The next day we dismantle our tents overjoyed with our extraordinary successes. As if the weather wanted to make our farewell easier, it rained throughout the night and the prospects for dry cracks did not look at all rosy. Looking back on our successful journey I can say that foes have been turned into friends – good friends! It’s a real love affair.”

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Steff – “Big Guy” (5.11-)

women’s SPECIAL

Sometimes she just has to let rip through the pow. That’s when sceptics realise that there’s no underestimating this woman. Like when Bettina Sulliger-Perren worked in Canada as a heli-skiing guide; the first woman in the company. The boss was from Switzerland and knew that there was no better candidate for the job than the mountain guide from Zermatt. But the others all asked whether she would be able to ski fast enough? Whether there was even proper powder snow here if we are heading up the mountain with a woman? How long has she been working as a mountain guide anyway?

“Every Monday when new guests arrived it was the same,” remembers Bettina. The slim Swiss guide was treated with suspicion. Then she would suddenly take off down the slope, leaving the others in a cloud of white; colleagues and guests who questioned her ability to seek out adventure in the powder should have known better. It was obvious: here is a woman who really has what it takes, who is not only a skiing instructor but a mountain guide as well. Somebody who has even skied down the 50 degree east face of the Matterhorn.

The first woman – as Bettina has been so often – not only heli-skiing in Canada; in 1995 she was the first woman to qualify as a mountain guide in Wallis and in 2004 was elected as president of the prestigious Zermatt Mountain Guides’ Association. A woman as boss in the men’s world of mountaineering attracted a great deal of attention from the media, reaching far beyond the borders of Switzerland.

Originally she wanted to be a sports teacher and even has the diploma from the University of Lausanne. However, she did not enjoy teaching in school: “I always had to try and motivate these teenagers who just weren’t interested in moving,” she says, shaking her head. Such reluctance is incomprehensible to somebody who is obsessed with sport. “What am I going to do now?” the young teacher asked herself. Because she has climbed and scrambled up everything her surroundings offered her ever since she was a child, she decided to register for a mountain guide course. “At the time I didn’t realise that I was the first woman in Wallis to do that, and when I did I still decided to keep quiet about it.” The idea was to see how far she could go, because the training is challenging and many a contender fails exams or simply gives up. Both men and women have to achieve the same level in all mountain sport disciplines, from sport climbing and ice climbing through to skiing in every type of terrain.

Each year they take around five courses to improve their knowledge and skills in all mountain sport disciplines – ski mountaineering and avalanches, for example, plus they learn everything a business owner has to know: purchasing, accounting and insurance are also part of the programme. Bettina moved on from course to course. Soon there were rumours that a woman was trying to become a mountain guide. “Nobody talked directly to me, maybe they thought it’ll take care of itself, she’s not going to manage it anyway,” says Bettina. But that didn’t happen of course, and following three years’ training Bettina at last found a profession that was also an obsession. Even after 17 years she is still the only woman among the 65 active mountain guides in Zermatt.

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A WOMAN IN A MAN’S WORLD

BETTINA

Sulliger SulligerPerren Matterhorn and Monte Rosa are home to Bettina, as she has been taking guests on tours around the alpine world of Zermatt for almost 17 years.

She finished her education in 1995 and became the first woman working as a mountain guide in the Swiss canton Wallis. Today she remains the only woman in the team of 65 working in the Alpine Center of Zermatt.

ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND –– 05:21 PM

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We wanted to know from the 43-year-old mother of two boys whether it has got any easier for women in the men’s world of mountaineering: Is it more accepted today – compared to 17 years ago – that a woman leads a climb?

No, women are still regarded with some suspicion in the profession today. The proportion of women has remained low; with around 1,500 men working as mountain guides throughout Switzerland, there are only 22 women. I am still the only one in Zermatt and in Wallis there are now five or six. When we arrive at mountain huts, people still look at me like I’m an alien when they realise that I’m in charge. Over time the stares can really get on your nerves. At the beginning of my career I was proud to wear my mountain guide’s badge on my chest, but I was under constant scrutiny as a consequence.

How does she rope up? How does she treat customers? Does she do everything right? You can see the questions written on people’s faces. I don’t wear my badge anymore because I don’t like being analysed in that way the whole time. When I was president of the mountain guides’ association, there was also a lot of noise about feminist issues. I kept on having to give interviews, although I’m not the slightest bit interested in the subject. I don’t feel like I am something special; I just get on in peace and quiet with taking customers up and down mountains. I do my work and that’s it.

And how do guests react?

There are some who say straight off that there is no way they want a woman. But in the meantime there are also those who ask especially if there isn’t a woman with whom they can go on a tour.

Why do you think that is?

I think the main reason is that they hope a woman has more patience. Looks after them better on the mountain. There are a few slave drivers among the mountain guides. They probably also expect that a woman has more feelings and understanding and that they are better listeners. Our job has changed a great deal; mountain guides often used to be rustic types who kept themselves to themselves. In mountain huts they would prefer to sit in the kitchen rather than with their guests. They brought the guest safely up the mountain and back down again. Today you are expected to be an entertainer, motivation coach, biologist, climatologist and psychologist. People want to know a lot about nature, climate change, the weather, and so on.

And you are a patient psychologist as well?

On the mountain guests talk a lot about themselves. They normally spend the whole day in the office and suddenly feel the freedom of the outdoors and have to push themselves in a completely different way.

That is such a powerful experience that it releases a lot of emotion. Many people start talking about things they would never normally discuss.

Problems and worries they need to get off their chests, things that stress them in their everyday lives. Whether it is sad or exciting, I listen. Sometimes they ask me: “What do you think?” They want advice. Things often look quite different viewed from the top of a mountain, or later back in the hut. Normal problems sometimes turn into fairly insignificant issues.

We have to ask how a petite woman like you can hold a 90–kilogram bloke on a rope?

The classic question. Honestly, it’s really not a problem. I think ahead, often placing more protection than male colleagues, I’m used to that.

And like everybody else I try to find out in advance what the visitor can manage. I ask how much sport they do at home. Which tours have they already done. What scares them.

If somebody says, they suffer from vertigo, for example, then before we get to the ridge up to the summit I’ll get them to concentrate at least once on walking in a straight line and try to prepare them for the challenging section.

Why do you think women don’t want to be mountain guides?

Because it isn’t a family-friendly job?

Like in any job, that is a question of organisation. Dennis and Cèdric know that in summer mummy is in the mountains. During the high season in July and August we have an au pair, so I can work six days a week. And they love the mountains themselves: now that they are nine and ten they are big enough to manage quite a lot on one of our family tours. When I was nine, I climbed our easy four-thousander, Breithorn, for the first time; my kids were seven when they did that.

What advice would you give young women who want to be mountain guides?

Live your dream, but find a second source of income as well.

Working as a mountain guide depends on so many things, including the weather. If it rains for the whole of July, then business is bad.

I am still involved in our family business with my husband in an optician and photographic shop. On top of that I have to be aware of the fact that my own projects often take second place. When the conditions are right you are normally out on the mountains with visitors. I used to climb the Matterhorn up to twelve times a year. I often looked at the very steep eastern ridge and thought that one day I would like to ski down it. My project had to wait because looking after visitors is more important: it took a while before I had time to do it. But then the day for my dream descent really came.

verwall

VERWALL, AUSTRIA –– 08:34 AM

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ikA kAUFMAnn Tine HUBeR & Angel

SNOW S N E E QU in VeRWAll

TEXT TINE HUBER PHOTOS TONI BREY

e Romance language range come s from th n tai un mo is th of spoilt loneliness The name minant peaks in an un do y; lle va ul tif au be in the middle of for VAL BEL, or e. Patteriol jut s out se n ca e ey e th as its stretching as far to the Ar lberg Pass, m St . Anton/Aus tria fro ive dr all u yo rw If Ve e e. th ng this ra middle of unmistakable in the is k an fl rth et. no gn ic ma ist a tion like char ac ter . It attracts your atten ad ro the of e sid uth Valley on the so r, ever y riol for years. Howeve tte Pa on t se s ht sig r Tine Huber has had he answers that applied tain she only received un mo s thi t ou ab d ke o be possible to time she as ee months. It must als -fr ow sn e th g rin du mations, she to climbing it with its jagged rock for n tai un mo d pe ha y-s a Kaufmann ski this beautifull bumped into Angelik e sh ion an mp co a reckoned. Looking for all?” Af ter Tine had let a little project in Verw cy an “F ia. str Au in nter followed by from Lech mbing Patteriol in wi cli t ou ab g ba e th the cat out of cond to say she was in. gelika didn’t wait a se An is, sk on t en sc de a

Tine & AngelikA TINE HUBER Home town: Age: Favourite area: job: Hobbies:

Innsbruck/Austria 29 Arlberg Freeskier Skiing, mountain biking, climbing, kite surfing, being outdoors and doing everything that’s fun

“Each exciting route that I discover in the mountains presents a new challenge for me ... that’s why I find alpine freeriding the most fun!”

ANGELIKA KAUFMANN Home town: Age: Favourite area: job: Hobbies:

Zug/Lech am Arlberg/Austria 25 Arlberg National skiing instructor and -guide Skiing, mountaineering and enjoying life outdoors

“I feel at home off-piste, skiing moguls, freeriding, ski touring and mountaineering. Skiing is a lifestyle that gives me freedom and provides very special enrichment. I enjoy intensive contact with the mountains and love the challenge of adapting to terrain, snow and weather.”

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After an initial meeting and a look at the map, the project started to take shape. What was originally planned as a three-day tour shrunk to two days. Angelika immediately crossed out the overnight stop at the Darmstädter Hut: “We will easily make it to the Konstanzer Hut in one day.” If we climb up via the Großer Küchlferner we ought to be able to manage the 1,200 m of elevation onto the ridge in six hours. One day less and we only need two good days – that means we need a shorter time window for fine weather.” At last, weather and snow conditions are ideal and both members of the team have got time.

Motivated and packed with enough stuff for two days we head off early in the morning into Moostal and then past the reservoir towards Großer Küchlferner. It’s unbelievable how quiet it is here and how fantastically the snow shimmers as the sunshine becomes more and more intense. Because the clocks have just gone back we’ve got an extra hour for the long ascent before the snow on the west-facing slope in front of us goes completely grainy. Only now can we see the Küchlferner and work out exactly how we are going to reach the other side.

On the map it looked fairly accessible, but will it turn out to be that easy when we get there?

Shortly before the gradually retreating glacier we now have to decide. Should we take the route up to the Ferner via the steep and exposed snowfield on the south side, or turn right into the shadows and head directly through the eastfacing glacial landscape with its crevasses?

We decide in favour of the route in the shade in the hope that there will still be some powder snow for rapid progress with kick-turns.

The snow is good apart from a few areas compacted by the wind. It’s not until the last section where the snowfield narrows to an extremely steep bottleneck that we have to shoulder our skis. Once we have reached the plateau we can clearly make out the saddle above the Küchlferner, our destination.

However, it seems like half an eternity that we push one ski in front of the other to cross the plateau. I count my steps to the rhythm as I stride across the flat expanse in a dream. Gradually the saddle looms closer and closer until after another couple of kick-turns we shoulder our skis and reach the transition from the Großer Küchlferner to the Kuchaferner. All the strain of the ascent is forgotten as soon as i look over the saddle the southeast slopes of Patteriol and see the amazing descent that lies before us. From here we can make detailed plans of tomorrow’s route for ascending Patteriol. We need to commit this to memory because much of the climb will be done during the hours of darkness.

SNO

d ou t to be a For me Verw all tur ne er e I ca n wh d pe rfe ct pla yg ro un a worry ut tho wi ion follow my pa ss a ro ute on ed cid de I ! in the wo rld in certa that we where it wa s pretty fun. g could focus on havin

Angelika

SNOW QUEE

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ENS

Perfect! The finest powder snow in the first steep gulley on our descent. After about 300 m of elevation and a short narrow passage this suddenly changes to grainy corn snow and we enjoy the cruise down mirror-smooth, wide slopes. You really only find such ideal conditions like this in places no other skier has been near. According to the map the wide slopes lead into several steep gullies. We select one of them and cruise past rugged rock formations in the best imaginable snow conditions down the gulley towards the valley floor. The short turns needed on the lower section of the run are brilliant fun.

After a final look at our route for the next day – the “Sommerweg” – we ski for several kilometres into the valley towards the winter shelter at the Konstanzer Hut. It’s not until now that we can feel that our legs are actually really quite tired.

Having arrived at the hut we take advantage of the last rays of sunshine to dry the perspiration out of our damp clothes, fetch water from the nearby stream and chop wood for the oven, the summit of Patteriol omnipresent in the background. As Angelika starts to empty her backpack all sorts of surprises are revealed.

There’s the inevitable proper Austrian mountaineer’s picnic with bread, cheese and sausage, plus to “keep our energy balance in check” and

maintain morale there’s also pasta to top up our reserves for the climb to the summit tomorrow. Patteriol is still standing menacingly behind our winter shelter and from here it hardly looks like it’s going to be an easy day’s skiing.

Enveloped by the pleasant warmth of the oven, which thanks to its poor condition and missing door really pours out heat, by the light of our headlamps we go over the plan again for the next day before we can no longer keep our eyes open.

The alarm goes off the next morning at 02:20 am and, still half asleep, we start getting all our equipment together. While brushing my teeth outside I catch sight of the breathtaking starry sky that will accompany us along the valley on the next stage of our challenge.

S

Still not yet quite awake and not very communicative we put one ski in front of the other until we reach a rock that stands out at the eastern foot of Patteriol. From here we use kick-turns to progress uphill, as it gets steeper. We make amazingly good time without having to use ski crampons until we reach a very rocky stretch. Angelika takes off her skis and straps them to her backpack. I start the same manoeuvre.

Then suddenly, before I can react, when I plunge the ski into the snow, it bounces off a rock and slides out of my hand. “Damn!” My ski is racing down the frozen slope. That’s crap! In the dark, using what little light my headlight could muster, I tried to find my ski further down the slope. “But don’t step into the gulley – there’s ice!” Angelika shouts, and that’s not all because below me is a series of cliffs. If the ski has gone past where I’m standing now, we can turn round – that’s it then. Just before I start to despair Angelika comes to my aid.

And then we spot the ski just above me; the skin was still on and had stopped the ski!

Overjoyed after having already imagined that our project had failed, we climb back up the slope again. We make good progress, as the snow crust is strong enough to bear our weight without breaking in.

Step by step we stamp our way uphill until it gradually gets lighter and the sun comes up behind the peaks of the mountains.

Amidst indescribable quiet and sensational surroundings we climb along the rock face across a small cornice to a plateau.

With crampons our route takes us up another slope to a steep gulley and we manage to make steady headway with the additional help of our ice axes. The sun is shining brightly and warms the snow up more and more under our feet so we feel we have to hurry if we want to complete our plan of climbing to the summit of Patteriol and then skiing down the southeast slopes. The three quarters of an hour I wasted while searching for my ski now adds to the pressure.

Having arrived at the next small plateau we take the joint decision to head for the north-facing gulley shown on the map despite the quite acceptable snow conditions on the southeast slope we just ascended.

Neither of us knows this gulley between the steep rock faces but the descent looks doable on the map – so we decide to head for the summit and the adventure.

Between the horn and the main summit, Angelika and I tackle the climb along the exposed rocky ridge on the final 50 m to the main summit armed with ice axes and crampons. We would have arrived at the summit in 15 minutes if we had crossed a snowfield to the summit gulley, but we reckoned this option was too risky due to the damp surface of the snow. Once we have climbed around the rock we discover another way of reaching the summit. Climbing down on the northwest side we climb around a rock face and then climb back up another steep gulley. On the lower summit rock we realise that we are going to have to climb back along the entire ridge to reach the right point to start our descent and decide to turn around on Patteriol just before reaching the main summit.

SNOW S N E E U Q 58I59

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Tine

QUEENS

Despite the warm weather and bright sunshine, this north-facing 45-degree deep gulley remains hidden in the shadows and we discover unbelievably perfect powder snow conditions for the long descent. While the powder is so enticing, it also has its treacherous side.

But that’s why we are here, that is part of alpine skiing; assessing situations and taking the right decision.

It’s not until we have covered the first half that we can see the lower section of the run and are rewarded with turns in the finest powder.

Across wide, smooth corn-snow slopes the run continues to Schönverwall and back to the Konstanzer Hut. However, we don’t want to dilly-dally in the Verwall Valley any longer than necessary because there is a risk of avalanches on both sides of the narrow valley leading out to the reservoir. Happy and tired we reach the Verwallhaus and then St. Anton am Arlberg.

AUSTRIA

TOUR DeSCRiPTiOn

Verwall

Day 1: Rendlbahn – Rifflbahn 1 – down Rossfall to Kühbleis and put on skins in Moosbach 1,930 m – SW across Kartellböden following the valley towards the Darmstädter Hut – 2,260 m view of Rautejoch up to 2,460 m – W to left end of glacier between kirche pinnacle and glacier – Großer Küchlferner – take the deepest gulley heading west to 3,018 m – NW gulley down to Kleiner Kuchaferner – 2,477 m – check ascent route for Day 2 – choose one of the many narrow gullies down to Fasultal – N on to Konstanzer Hut Day 2: Konstanzer Hut 1,688 m – S towards Fasultal up to 1,960 m – then W to “Kugelt Stan” 2,023 m and turn off to climb up to 2,200 m – S 2,256 m continue to 2,320 m – NW to 2,720 m – find gulley up to Horn – up to saddle 2,920 m between Horn and southern ridge – along ridge to summit 3,056 m – return to saddle – W in gulley that then turns N and downwards – via Roßböden and ‘s Faräsch back to Konstanzer Hut 1,688 m – along Verwall Valley out to Verwallhaus – bus to St. Anton

Konstanzer Hut

Patteriol Horn Kugelt Stan

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Tine: Ndorphin Vest ket #W37520, Ter rex Ter rex IceFeather jac #W37650, Lof t速 Hooded jacket #W37542, Ter rex Prima ueis Pants Bla rex eeve #W37551, Ter Ter rex 1/2 Zip Longsl e ID2 pro ggl Go 43, 522 Backpack #W #W37663, Ter rex BC 16 速 Angelika: rex PrimaLof t ll jacket #W37799, Ter 96, Ter rex GT X Active She 380 jacket #W 26, Ter rex Sw ift Fleece Hooded jacket #W653 nts Pa un Simila eeve #W52222, Ter rex Ter rex 1/2 Zip Longsl Goggle ID2 43, 522 #W ack ckp Ba #W37679, Ter rex BC 16

THeiR eQUiPMenT

St. Anton/Arlberg

Darmst辰dter Hut Kuchenspitze

sour ce: Google

K端chlspitz

Guido Unterwurzacher and Christian Hechenberger head off for the far north in search of perfect ice climbs.

See for yourself what they managed to unearth.

“Pastise”(WI6, 160 m) Sunndalen.

ICE CLIMBING NORWAY

SUNNDALEN, NORWAy –– 11:45 AM

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TEXT GUIDO UNTERWURZACHER PHOTOS HANNES MAIR

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NORWAy ICE

* dal = valley, foss = waterfall

FEBRUARy, AND WINTER HAS ITS ICy GRIP ON THE TyROLEAN UNTERLAND. MOTIVATION FOR ICE CLIMBING IS ON A HIGH, ALTHOUGH TEMPERATURES AS LOW AS -25 °C MAKE IT EASIER TO FIND REASONS NOT TO PURSUE A PASSION FOR ICE. Christian “Hechei” Hechenberger and I decided at short notice to book a fl ight to the far north, i.e. Norway, to visit our two friends Simon and Flo in Trondheim to find a ‘dal’ and do a ‘foss’* or two. Our baggage includes the anticipation of a couple of icy adventures, ice climbing equipment, enough chocolate for about two years (thanks Hechei!) and my buddy Hannes Mair, who wants to capture our escapades on film. Three friends, unique waterfalls, no information, pure adventure, what could possibly go wrong …

Norway is Europe’s answer to Canada when it comes to ice climbing – plenty of ice and moose to go with it. Lady in Green, Guido, and Lady in Red, Hechei, on another dream that’s turned into ice.

No joke, Norway has the best ice! Sunndalsøra.

On rest days we picked out houses ... or (look right!) elks!

Line scouting Hemsedal. Guido inspects the icy monster “Hydnefossen” (WI6, 300 m) for the logical climbing route.

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February 8th – 07:00 am. We are sitting in the plane to Trondheim. Our friends told us we can look forward to sensational conditions, excitement levels are huge, we don’t have any concrete ideas about what kind of ice climbing potential is awaiting us; we’ll see what happens when we get there. Should be interesting.

After 3 hours we reach Trondheim, grab our hire car and make our way to Simon and Flo. They are currently studying for a semester in Trondheim – “Isklattring” is the name of the course, which has a lot to do with every configuration of steep ice and climbing, but not much to do with university, although they both take it pretty seriously. We quickly check the weather conditions and then set off towards Sunndalen, which is three hours away. In the dark we can faintly make out what is waiting for us over the next few days and Hechei starts to cry with joy ;-).

February 9th – “Amotan” (WI5+, 200 m) is the first fine Norwegian specimen to make the acquaintance of our nomics. An awesome place!

From the top we abseil down the steep ice to the entry point and can hardly wait to get our teeth – or ice axes – into it. Suddenly we hear a loud cracking sound that gets louder and louder. I turn to the right and see a huge plate of back flushed ice break away and plunge into the depths about 100 m away from our waterfall. Wow, nothing like seeing how quickly it can all be over! We rapidly climb the “Amotan” and are totally pleased with ourselves. Perfect conditions, - 5°C, and we feel this wave of smugness. On the final few metres I manage to show Hechei how good I am at ice axe throwing. The whole 200 m back to the start – well OK, you guessed, I dropped it. Luckily I found it again and the tiring rescue work retrieving the fallen ice axe didn’t spoil our elated mood.

February 11th – There is a change in the weather and the Gulf Stream is expected to convey higher temperatures into the valley of a 1,000 waterfalls. Nonetheless we trudge through snow flurries towards an impressive waterfall called “Emesis” (WI5, 500 m). The combined inconvenience of snow and wind cause us to daydream about a hot sauna or whirlpool, but the pain of numb fingers thawing out rapidly returns us back to the realities of our icy surroundings. Ice climbing is often best once it’s over. The waterfall was amazing, but nothing compared to the hot shower afterwards.

February 10th – Hechei and I are standing at the start of a cool, elegant and thin ice line called “Pastise” (WI6+, 160 m). Looks awesome because the second pitch starts with a 6 m long, thin, free-standing pillar and the temperature is around 0 °C, which means you are in for a free shower if you don’t get a move on! We quickly put this ice gem behind us and when we have fi nished the climb even catch a bit of sun. Isn’t life good?

February 14th – When we eyed the photo of the mighty “Hydnefossen” (WI6, 350 m) the previous evening, it was clear that tomorrow we had to be early birds to snap up this icy worm. The weather was fair to middling and windy; after a 2 hours’ approach we were standing under this huge frozen monster and set about working out a logical climbing route. Hechei kicks off by climbing the entire length of the 60 m long rope. In the meantime it has gotten colder and windier and spindrifts caught by the wind are continuously showering us from above. We behave as though that is part of the action. Now it’s my turn. The ice gets steeper and more cylindrical and the whole business takes on a new level of daring because in icicled terrain using ice screws as protection can be hit-and-miss.

February 12th – The Gulf Stream and the high temperatures forced us to rethink our plans. We packed our worldly goods and set off on the eight hour drive to Hemsedal, a well-known ice climbing mecca. Apparently the weather was better there, and the temperatures lower. The journey passed in a fl ash for me and Hechei while we indulged in a highly amusing and witty word game – for Hannes it was the longest road trip ever. When we arrived in Fagernes, we secured accommodation for the next few days straightaway while the ice giants grinned at us from above ...

February 13th – “O’hoi!” (WI5), a nice 3-pitch waterfall, is on today’s programme, the perfect destination for birds that don’t always want to catch the early worm.

Guido and Hechei on “Amotan” (WI5). And what is WI supposed to stand for?

WI means “Water Ice” and the grade 5 is a mixture of fun and seriousness, WI6 a mixture of seriousness and fear and everything above that a mixture of fear, craziness and frustration.

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The ice screw is set, but not for you. As the spindrift gets heavier and heavier it’s now more like little powder avalanches, making progress a “flying blind” experience. My fingers are so numb that I can’t even feel whether I’ve got the ice axe in my hands or around my ankles. Every time I want to look up at the route I get taken by surprise by another load of snow straight in the visage – and the great thing is that after every metre of progress the whole rigmarole starts from the beginning again, except that the spindrifts are getting heavier and heavier. That’s our status report so far.

Simon, Flo and Hannes must be having a whale of a time on the neighbouring “sunshine route” (as we called it) because we could only catch sight of them momentarily before they were swallowed up again by the falling snowdrifts.

“It must not be fun to have fun!” With the right clothing it’s easier to keep smiling :-) Hemsedal.

Ice climbing is often best once it’s all over, but not always like this.

Guido and Hechei enjoy the unique backdrop and some perfect ice.

“Langåni”. While some say great waterfalls, we said awesome climbing!

Hechei in “O’hoi!” (WI5)

Two elks looking for food and affection.

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Hechei “took another look at his breakfast” at the belay point while my bloody nose and black eye as a result of catching a falling chunk of ice full-on summed up the “Hydnefossen” experience – making it a thoroughly unforgettable and unpleasant day out.

Think positive: “At least it didn’t turn out too warm!” The spindrift was kind enough to accompany us for the rest of the climb and our frozen fingers even agreed to stay attached to us for a while longer.

When we reached the route’s end, we were actually overcome with joy to have completed this crazy waterfall despite the adverse conditions and we shouted to our buddies through the snow flurries whipped up by the wind. We met them at the top, although we had to look twice before we recognised them. These guys didn’t look the slightest bit more laid-back than us, and there was another thing we had in common: a broad, frozen grin spread across our faces ...

February 15th – We are back in the car, just raring to go. “Bakkekollen” (WI6+) is the object of our desire, and the fact that the full length of the 200 m high waterfall only freezes every 10 years amplifies our motivation even more. However, it is pretty warm, almost too warm, and the “Hydnefossen” had made us more cautious. But we haven’t come here to muck about.

From the road we check out a great route up the yellowy brown “Bakkekollen” through the binoculars and have to admit that the second pitch wasn’t going to be doable due to unfavourable ice conditions. The ice is no longer attached to the rock and white snow patches and many thin icicles lead us to the conclusion that these facts are not encouraging. You have to have it in you to say no and so we decided to go and eat something instead. A cola and burger with fries heavier, but € 25 lighter, we made our way back to our comfortable lodgings.

February 16th – “Langåni” (WI6, 350 m) is the name of today’s waterfall that towers before us. Starting with a massive block of ice at the foot followed by very steep sections and a pillar waiting above with a 20 cm settlement crack, it looks like another adventurous day for us in the Norwegian wilderness. The coolest ice climbing action you can imagine – that’s how we look back on this beauty, this time without spindrift or falling ice. But as our arms, legs and heads gradually run out of steam, the rough and tumble of the many metres of ice over the last few days are starting to take their toll.

February 17th – We decide to drive back to Trondheim and 8 hours later reach Simon and Flo’s student digs.

Eat, drink and party.

February 18th – Today we are flying home. Before we leave we want to take a look around the university in Trondheim, which has turned into a spot recommended for “buildering”, as they say here. On the way to the airport we agree that Norway is Europe’s Canada: “ice climbing paradise” doesn’t do it justice. Our 10 days have gone far too quickly but we were able to make the most of our time and collect some good info so we can look forward to the next trip to the far north. Now we are looking forward to home because it has just dumped a load of fresh snow there and as we always say: “There’s always something that needs doing!”

So let’s keep on rockin’ in a free world!

Guido Unterwurzacher

The right equipment makes it even more fun! My tip for all ice crags out there! Dress your ass with adidas. Looks good and does what it says. Put on your jackets and get out there!

TERREX FROSTZEIT HOODED jACKET The Inuit may have more than 30 different expressions for snow, but in most languages frost simply remains frost. Frost is frost and stays frost, in English like in Norwegian. That’s because unlike snow, frost only has one appearance, which is unforgiving, penetrating cold; excruciatingly cold. Frost feels like it sounds ... Hard. Sharp. Merciless.

Frost breathes on you with its icy breath right in your face, reaches for your throat with its ice-cold fingers, bites your toes with its steely teeth, shakes your freezing hands with its ice-cold grip. Frost is good when you are sitting at home in front of an open fire. Frost is bad when you are on the go outdoors. Frost is good for turning water into ice. Frost is bad when you want to climb on frozen water. Although that’s not always true. Climbing ice isn’t so bad, but belaying on ice is. There is nothing more frosty than having to stay more or less still while you belay your climbing partner inside a great white refrigerator. Because first you were sweating like a proverbial pig, and now you are at the mercy of Father Frost. That’s how it used to be.

It’s quite different now. And why? Because now there is the terrex™ frostzeit hooded jacket.

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Lining H-chambers filled with 700+ FP 90/10 Goose Down Scrim PrimaLoft® 60g

That is designed especially with belaying in mind. It combines the best from the never-ending conflict between down and PrimaLoft®. That’s because the frostzeit jacket consists of down AND PrimaLoft®. It works like this: the heart of the jacket consists of the finest 90/10 goose down with 700+ cuin. Sounds cuddly? That’s because it is. The down is integrated into an H-chamber design used in sleeping bags so that there are no cold bridges. Because down can lose its thermal properties if it gets wet, it is surrounded by a PrimaLoft® layer. Perspiration drifts through the down and doesn’t condense until it reaches the PrimaLoft® zone. The down remains dry as a result and continues to warm, while the moisture can gradually evaporate away on the outside. And that nothing comes in from the outside is

due to the completely waterproof and extremely wearresistant shell material featuring fully-taped seams.

Sounds good? It is good. Because if like Guido and Hechei you are climbing in the iciest conditions Norway has to offer, then you tell the truth, and nothing but the truth. And because warmth isn’t worth much without functionality, the frostzeit jacket is equipped with a FORMOTION™ cut so it’s as athletic as it’s free to move.

Then there are two large inside pockets to keep everything warm that needs to be kept warm while climbing, waterproof outside pockets, a helmet-compatible hood as well as an integrated cushion that is ideal for sitting on or keeping your kidneys toasty. Fact is, Father Frost hasn’t got a chance against the frostzeit jacket, not even with new dentures.

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DIE ANOTHER DAY

TEXT + PHOTOs Matteo della bordella, matteo bernasconi

Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Bernasconi from the Ragni di Lecco Group made a major attempt in the past two years to tackle the unresolved problem of the dizzying west wall of Torre Egger in Patagonia; attempted by many teams but never ascended due to technical difficulties and the very real danger of falling rocks and ice.

After their first Patagonia tour in 2010/11 with numerous attempts they came back with the plan to complete this ascent. During this expedition the duo had to cross big crevasses, overcome changing weather conditions with snow, rain and ice, work with soaked clothes and frozen ropes, sleep for nine days in a hand-built ice cave, contend with huge falling ice blocks and severed rope. They faced so many risks that their attempts have been judged as epic by the climbing community. After all those risks they were blessed with a perfect forecast of at least four days of good weather and were able to start climbing and overcome the first part of the great overhang, just 40 m below Col Lux. This is what Matteo Della Bordella remembers from that last day:

“I see Col Lux 20 m above me on the left, in front of me a semi-blind corner; I’m totally psyched to climb this last pitch and quite confident of reaching the summit of Torre Egger the following day. While belaying my mate Berna, who is having quite a hard time in cleaning the 5 m of horizontal roof I’ve just climbed, I can hear he’s yelling at me ‘cause he’s not able to pull out his yellow C3, but who cares in the end, we’re about to finish our route, we can leave a cam behind. In the meanwhile my mind is already thinking about a perfect bivvy at Col Lux, with thousands of stars so bright above our heads. And then I think about the next day, I think about how I will feel at the summit of Torre Egger. Finally I think about the never-ending descent that is waiting for us. I’m still totally absorbed by these thoughts when Berna suddenly joins me at the belay.

Probably the worst belay station of the whole route: a blind corner which is quite narrow – not enough room for two people at the same time, just above a big roof with almost 1,000 m of empty space under our feet. Berna tries to find the best accommodation he can on the belay, which is not at all easy! We’ve also got two big haul bags in the way with all the ice gear, the belay is really messy. It’s already late in the day, but the arête is there, just another 30 m and we’re out from these hideous overhangs; we see salvation up there at Col Lux. Thus we take the decision to go on and finish it up today.

I took quite a long time to build this belay because the rock is so hard and tough here. Since our hand-held drill had run out of juice,

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The “Lecco Spiders” or “Ragni di Lecco” is the climbing club of the famous Grignetta Spiders Mountaineering Association in Italy. With a long history of international successes going back more than 60 years, the Lecco Spiders is one of the most prominent climbers’ clubs on the international scene, boasting a line-up that includes big names from the past such as Riccardo Cassin and Casimiro Ferrari as well as today’s alpinists and mountaineers like Simone Pedeferri, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Bernasconi, Fabio Palma, Daniele Bernasconi and Paolo Spreafico. Over the years they have not only opened up numerous new routes but have also been in the spotlight of international fame. Historic breakthroughs include McKinley in 1960, Cerro Torre in 1974 and Murallon in 1984, just to name a few. More recently there has been the Gasherbrum II new route by Daniele Bernasconi, Alps masterpiece routes like the ones in Wendenstöcke by Della Bordella and Palma, and numerous new lines and first ascents in Greenland, Chile, Pakistan, Algeria and Mali.

For more info visit WWW.RAGNILECCO.COM

I did my best to place some safe gear: in the end I put a medium knifeblade high up, which sang well when I hammered it in and looked solid, I also put a 0.75 cam, a grey alien, a nut and finally lower down a 0.3 cam.

Berna gives me back all the gear I placed in the previous pitch and everything is ready. The belay looks rich and solid so I take out the grey alien since I see a good spot for it just above the peg. I move on. I pull myself up to the highest point of the belay, the knifeblade, and look for the grey alien. I remove the grey alien and try to come closer to the peg to have a longer reach. I don’t even have the time to realize what is going on, just hear “ting” and realize I’m falling.

After a fraction of a second another “ting” and I suddenly pass over Berna’s head and start screaming loudly. Then, just close to the edge of the roof, I stop. All the empty space is under me and my whole body starts shaking. I immediately feel an overwhelming sensation of cold. But apart from the huge scare I’m unharmed. I ask Berna how is he feeling and he says that he is OK. After some time, I realize I have to pull myself up again. I’m hanging in the void and ask Berna for a jumar. Berna looks for the jumar and in the meanwhile he checks the condition of the belay. “We’re all on just one cam,” he says. All the belay had popped out except for the last 0.3 cam. Our two bodies and the two haul bags are all hanging on a 2 cm piece of metal that is somehow hanging on the wall. My world stops for some moments. If after falling I was scared now I’m totally terrified and unable to do anything. I say to Berna “OK, keep calm and try to put something else in there.” I don’t think he was very lucid in that situation, but still he managed to set another #3 cam, working back to put the nut back in, at least to try to distribute the weight on some other points. I’m just unable to help him, so I have to completely trust in what he is doing (Berna has actually shown great ability in making safe belays since the beginning of this route).

Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo ‘Berna’ Bernasconi in Patagonia

I can’t think of anything but putting my feet on some piece of horizontal rock to stop hanging in the void. Luckily we left a trail line going from the edge of the roof to the previous belay and Berna lowers me down. When he also comes down, I’m starting to feel a little better, although I still feel a deep cold and my body is shaking. The night is cold and long. The whole night I can’t close my eyes; the cold and the adrenaline keep me awake. After deep thought I come to the final decision: I’m too frightened to go up there again without a bolt. It’s so hard for my ego to accept, but I realize that what happened is just too much for me, I do not want to put myself through this game anymore. I am too afraid of losing.

Being here with this perfect weather has been all I dreamt of for two years, it was just the kind of experience I was looking for. So why did Torre Egger bounce us when we were so close?

From one point of view all this story is like a joke. It’s like if in a marathon you are in the lead, you see the finish line and suddenly you fall and twist your ankle. But this adventure made me learn a lot. I realized more than ever that somehow our lives are just hanging on a line; in our case this has been reality – not just a dictum. I learned that climbing mountains also means being able to renounce, and this specific renouncement has surely been one of the hardest of my whole life. I discovered what my limits are because after the fall I didn’t want to go up there again without a bolt. It defined a personal limit. Finally I shared all this adventure with Berna and learned not to think just for myself but for both of us. During the whole climb we were one single entity; I couldn’t go anywhere without him and he couldn’t do anything without me. And the thing which makes me happier than anything else is that I’m back alive and safe and I’m telling you our story, because as many other alpinists claim, beyond the mountains there are just men …

specials PATAGONIA

LA SISHA

THOMAS HUBER Six weeks in the land of storms, just missing my goal on Torres. We almost had it all … but then it snowed just before we wanted to set off and all our hopes were gone with the wind! But that is mountaineering; that’s Patagonia. Success and defeat are so closely related in these mountains.

Mid-January we started in the middle of a fine weather period.

David Lama managed to use this to his advantage and redpointed the Compressor route, which had been made easier with some bolts set previously. The two young climbers from the USA who had done this overshadowed David’s effort, at the same time as upgrading it! He managed it, and he did it without using the bolts. For our plans the weather was simply too good, too warm and as a result too dangerous.

Together the four of us decided to tackle another big wall, weather and conditions permitting (Silla west face, conditions good despite snow, 1,500 metres, virgin climb). The weather report is also OK, not ideal, but good enough to complete the adventure. Day one: 1,000 metres, climbing up to 7. We reached a comfortable bivouac. 500 metres of top rock above us up to the summit of Silla. Much and Mario sorted what were probably the two most difficult pitches. The weather was great. The night in the bivouac was also OK; a cloudless night. Around 5 o’clock in the morning it started snowing: “This can’t be for real...”.

We ate our muesli wavering between frustration and optimism.

It didn’t stop snowing. We waited, we hoped, but the snowfall got heavier and heavier. The decision was unavoidable. Abort!

The retreat was complicated. Eight hours later we were back at camp, no summit, no success. But we were happy and nobody had the feeling that we had failed. It was an adventure of a special kind. It was real mountaineering with friends. The best thing you can experience in the mountains ... the end of one story is the beginning of another, and so life goes on...

Then followed three weeks of catastrophic weather, sometimes with snow down into the valley. Stop Patagonia! Mario and I trained in El Chaltèn, brooding and sauntering, most of the time with two climbers from Innsbruck/Austria – Hansjörg Auer and Mayr Much. They were also stranded in Patagonia with their plans dashed. But then everybody got excited: it rained right up to the summits and in three days’ time the weather was forecast to stay fine for around 4 days. Were we really going to have dream conditions to fulfil our plans? That was a Friday. Monday we wanted to get started. But on Sunday morning we awoke to white mountains again after a cold front wedged its way in. The goalposts had been moved again; they were no longer in sight. Much and Hansjörg also decided to write off Patagonia. However, as always, the end of one story is the beginning of another.

Thomas Huber, Mayr Much, Luis Soto, Hansjörg Auer, Mario Walder (l-r)

TEXT + PHOTOs THOMAS HUBER

I’m back home from Patagonia.

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Reinhold MESSNER 60 years of

climbing fascination in Patagonia At the end of WWII the climbing community also went through a phase of renewal. The most successful alpinists from between the wars – Riccardo Cassin and Anderl Heckmair – are still active, but it is young climbers who assume leadership in mountaineering: in Italy Walter Bonatti and Cesare Maestri; in England Joe Brown and Don Whillans; in Austria Hermann Buhl and Toni Egger; in France Jean Couzy and Gaston Rébuffat, and especially the duo Louis Lachenal and Lionel Terray.

The French climbers, many of them having developed daring skills in the Resistance, are now shaping the future of alpinism. Under the leadership of Maurice Herzog they manage not only the initial ascent of an eight-thousander for the first time – Annapurna in the central Himalayas – but also they better the achievements of their predecessors in the Alps and the Andes.

Lionel Terray, who with Louis Lachenal managed the second ascent of the north face of the Eiger in 1947 and achieved world fame with the initial ascent of Makalu in the Himalayas, later had this to say about Fitz Roy in Patagonia: “There is not one single route in the Alps that presented us with as many difficulties as Fitz Roy.” Terray almost lost his life on Fitz Roy in 1952.

This “Matterhorn of the southern hemisphere”, a unique granite peak, is only 3,450 m high, but is a seductive goal. That’s because the difficulties on Fitz Roy are heightened by the climate in Patagonia: poor weather conditions, cold, ice-covered rock faces, sudden and unprecedented buffeting storms. All that adds up to make Fitz Roy one of the most difficult mountains in the world.

Fitz Roy has become a challenge for Terray. There is nothing like it in the Alps or the Himalayas. From the beginning, snowfall and storms impede their progress. For three weeks Terray and his colleagues fight against the most adverse weather conditions: they dig caves into the glacier; the track that connects them to base camp has to be opened up again every day. These are despicable conditions and the climbers have to carry everything themselves. There are no Sherpas in Patagonia. However, in 20 days they have set up three camps that are all supplied with food. The route from camp II to camp III stretches over 300 m of elevation and is secured with fixed ropes and rope ladders. Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone, a climber bursting with energy from Paris, sit out the storm for five days. The methylated spirits for the cooker almost runs out. When the weather clears for a moment, they manage to escape back to base camp.

As the weather improves the two top climbers make their way to camp III. The sky is clear, the weather is glorious. The next day at dawn the sky is grey again; the cold is biting.

Nevertheless they risk an attempt: the climb is extremely difficult from the start; they set some bolts and freeclimb 120 m of the 750 m high rock face. In the evening they return to camp. In the morning the wind is completely still and there is not a cloud in the sky. Now let’s go for it! Terray and Magnone climb fast and leave many bolts behind them. They take turns to lead as they climb higher.

From each belay Terray can see down onto Cerro Fitz Roy’s smaller neighbour, Cerro Torre, which looks even more diffi cult than their mountain, impossible, perhaps? Like Fitz Roy maybe?

By the time it gets dark they have almost half the wall behind them.

They bivouac overnight and the next day don crampons to try and climb the ice adhering to the rock face.

Their supply of bolts has run out; they are going to have to use some tricks from now on. They reach the summit at four o’clock in the afternoon: they have to cope with wind, fog and low visibility. It starts to snow. The descent becomes an act of desperation. The storm brings fear, icy rocks, snow slides. Even so they dare to continue into the abyss. In the end it is the fixed ropes that save Magnone and Terray’s escape. Until they are in the arms of their friends.

Following the initial ascent of Fitz Roy their achievement is acknowledged by the Argentine government and gains worldwide recognition. The question is also raised whether anybody will ever be able to climb Fitz Roy’s smaller neighbour, Cerro Torre. As a result Cerro Torre is regarded at the time as the most diffi cult unconquered mountain in the world.

For a long time the “Torre”, just five kilometres southwest of Fitz Roy, was a taboo subject. An impossible mountain. Until it became the goal of the world’s best climbers. The initial ascent was in 1974 by the Ragni di Lecco (Lecco Spiders) under the leadership of Casimiro Ferrari; David Lama freeclimbed the “Compressor route” this January.

“We saw Cerro Torre – an almost unreal freestanding giant column,” Lionel Terray writes in his report on the Fitz Roy expedition in 1952.

He also writes about wild rivers on the approach, torrential rain and snow metres deep. He describes the huge effort that would be needed just to reach the foot of the mountain. He writes about icy storms that make it impossible to set up tents so that you have to stay in snow caves. “One thing we know for certain,” Terray writes, “if a group of climbers gets caught in a Patagonian storm in the middle of the wall, they are goners.”

Since then the incredible approach and initial ascent of this column have been achieved and many more dreams buried. In Patagonia you need a great deal of luck, endurance and skill to reach success.

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